Lecture # 6

knitting fundamentals

Knitting Fundamentals

Knitting Definition

Knitting is one of several ways to turn thread or

yarn into cloth. Unlike woven fabric, knitted fabric
consists entirely of horizontal parallel courses of
yarn.
The courses are joined to each other by interlocking
loops in which a short loop of one course of yarn is
wrapped over the bight of another course.
Knitting can be done either by hand, described
below, or by machine. In practice, hand knitting is
usually begun (or "cast on") by forming a base
series of twisted loops


Knitting is a process in which one thread is

used to make loops and then newly formed

loops are passed through previously formed
loops and top and bottom loops are joined
with the help of head and feet

Lecture # 7
Knitting Fundamentals

Knitting Fundamentals

Basic Elements in knitting is

Stitch or Course

Stitch Details

loop

Loop insertion through loop

Joining of two loops

Knitted fabric flexibility depends upon loop

structure

Loops have many shapes and types

Loop

An extended portion of a regular string

Has no end

It is part of main string

Have balance shape

Is made with the help of any tool which is able

to pull the string from a certain point

Loop Insertion

Loop is inserted through an other previously

held loop with the help of needle

Needle should have the ability to hold fresh
loop during insertion period

Needle is responsible to make new loops and
hold the previous sloop

Loop insertion Animation

Knitting Cycle

Website address for knitting cycle

exeltor.com/.../index.

php?ss=3&sss=1&stage=3

Lecture # 8

Classification of knitting

Knitting Classification

Based upon Knitting Procedure

Warp and Weft

Warp Knitting

Weft Knitting

Warp Knitting

In this process yarn sheet is developed (warp

sheet) and then with the help of needles

stitches are formed by insertion new loop into
old loop.

Warp Knitting Machine

Warp Knitted Fabric

Weft Knitting
In weft knitting single yarn is fed to knitting
needles. Needle with the help of cams, sinker
make a new loop and passed it into
previously held loops.

Types of Weft Knitting

Circular Knitting and Flat Knitting

Circular Knitting Machines

In circular knitting machines needles are fixed on a

cylinder or dial in a circular shape.

There are more than one feeders to feed yarn to
needles at different places.

In most of the cases needle bed (cylinder or dial)
moves while feeders remain stationary.

Diameter of cylinder and dial is fixed but in case of
sock knitting machines it is changeable due to
structure of socks

Circular Knitting Machine

Flat Knitting Machines

In flat knitting machines needles are fixed on

a straight plate. On this machine needle bed

remains stationary while yarn feeding system
called carriage moves from one end to other
end

This machine is used to knit collars, arm
bands and sweaters

Flat Knitting

Types of Circular Knitting

Machines

Single Knitting

Double Knitting

Single Knit Machine

In these machines needles are fixed on

cylinder and sinker are fixed on sinker ring.

Needles knit with the help of sinkers.

Single Knit Machine

Double Knit Machine

In double knit machine needles are fixed on

dial as well as on cylinders. There is no

sinkers on this machine.

This machine is used to knit interlock, rib and
double jerseys

Double Knitting

Double Knit Fabric

Interlock--- Two sides are fully knitted, highly flexible

used for under garments. Front and back wales are

exactly at same point

Rib--- two sides are fully knitted. Less flexible but
have strong grip, used for neck, cuff opening and
waist band. Front and back wales are not at same
point

Double Jersey
Double side knitted, can have different designs on
both sides

Interlock Machine

Double Knit Jacquard Knitting

Machine

Types of Single Knitting Machines

Plain knitting

Loop knitting

Single Knit Plain Knitting

Machines

Mostly called jersey machines. On this

machines, there is a set of needles and

sinkers. These machines may be single track
of multi track. From one track to six track
machines are available.

These machine can knit jersey, pique, honey
comb, mini jacquard

Single Plain Knitting Machines

Single Track

Multi Track

Single Track Single Knit

Track means number of cams vertically fitted

In single track machine there is only one track

This machine can knit only full knit fabric

(single jersey)

Multi Track Knitting Machine

In this machine there are 2-6 tracks

More number of tracks means that variety of

designs can be produced

On these machine many types of fabric can
be produced, like, pique, pique fleece, two
thread fleece and mini jacquard

Loop Knitting Machines

In these machines we can make loop on one

or on both sides of fabric.

By introducing loops we can increase the
weight and bulkiness of fabric

Types of Loop Knitting Machines

Terry

Fleece

Terry Fabric

This fabric has loops on the surface, like

towel but the length of loops is smaller than

towels. Normally used to make shirts of kids
or for people working under high temperature
to absorb the moisture

Terry Knitting Machine

Terry Knitting Machine

Single Jersey Double Face Fabric

Three Thread Knitting Machine

This machine is used to produce fleece fabric. This

fabric is plain from one side. Mostly front side is of

single jersey and on back loop is inserted across
various number of wales (normally two to three wales
are covered).

Back side is brushed with the help of raising machine
to make it more comfortable and bulky as well as
warm

Two types of threads are used; fine for the top and
course for back ( 30/16, 28/12 etc)

Three Thread Fleece Machine

Fleece Fabric

Striper

In stripe knitting machines we can produce

horizontal stripes with the help of scissors

which cuts the yarn and a new yarn is fed

There are two types of:

Mechanical

Electronic

Note: in current era there is no fresh
production of mechanical strip machines

Stripe Knitting Machine

Jacquard Knitting Machines

These machine are available in single and

double knit technology

Normally more than one colored yarns are
used.

Different patterns are made

Normally 4-6 color machines are available


All types of machines can be converted into

jacquard machines

Jacquard Machines

Mechanical Jacquard

Electronic Jacquard

Jacquard Fabric

Flat Knitting

Single bed

Double bed

Full Garment Flat Knitting Machines

These are latest machines and are used to

make full length of garment

Quite expensive

Not in Pakistan

Required in countries where labour is
expensive

Gloves Knitting Machine

Gloves Knitting machines

In this machine bed rotates and carriage

moves from one side to other

Lecture # 9
Warp knitting

Warp Knitting

Types of Flat Knitting

Raschel, made with latch needles,

Tricot, using bearded needles.


Warp-Knitting

When producing warp-knits, a yarn sheet is

linked by stitches in longitudinal direction.

Thus, each individual thread in the sheet
(warp) forms a wale.

Warp Knitting

Main products

Nets
Curtains
Technical fabrics
Covers
Covering sheets

Working Principle

Warp sheet

Loops development with the help of needles

Loops insertion with the help of needles

Needle movement controls mechanically and

electronically

Properties of Warp Knitted Fabric

More stable than knitted

Big and small holes are possible

Many designs are possible

Highly course yarn can be used

Technical fabric can be produced

Use of Warp Knitted Fabric

Use to fulfill technical demands, like, filters,

seat covers etc

Used as curtains, table covers

Used as Chadar in Pakistan

Not used for clothing

Warp Knitting Industry in

Pakistan

Very small number of mills, mainly in

Gujranwala

One or two in Lahore