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Therearemanychoicesinfabrics,woolroving(wooltop),
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andotherembellishmentsfornunofelting.However,the
lighterandmoreopenweavethefabricandthefinerthe
woolroving(wooltop)theeasieritistonunofelt.Lightersilk
fabricsaregreatfornunofeltingbecausethewoolfiberscan
easilyworktheirwaythroughthefabricandholdontothe
silk.
SilkFabrics
Silkscarveswithaweightof8mmorlessandrolledhems
aregreatfornunofelting.
Silkisconsideredoneofthemostluxuriousfabrics
worldwide.Silkisthestrongestnaturalfiberandhasa
beautifulshimmer.Thisshineincontrastwiththewool
createssomeofthewonderfuleffectsofnunofelting.
Therearemanytypesofsilkinmanyweights.Theweightof
silkismeasuredinmommes(mm),theweightinpoundsof
a45inchby100yardspieceofmaterial.Thelowerthe
mommes(mm)thelightertheweightofthesilk,andthe
easieritistonunofelt.
SilkFabricswhicharegreatforNunoFelting
(Theseplainweavesilkfabricswithaweightof8mmorless
workbestfornunofelting.)
Habotai
(alsocalled
Habutai,
China
Silk,and
Pongee)
Chiffon
SilkGauze
(typical
weightsare (typicalweightsare616 (typicalweightsare
516
mm)
35mm)
mm)
Habotaiisa
lustrous,
lightweight,
sheersilk
fabricwith
asoft
drape.
ChiffonisfromtheFrench
wordforclothorrag.
Chiffonisanelegant,
lightweight,sheersilk
fabricwithasoftdrape,
slightstretch,andcrepe
liketexture.
SilkGauzeFabricis
anextremely
lightweightand
sheersilkfabricwith
averysoftfloating
drape,andissimilar
toChiffon.
WoolFibers
Merinowoolroving(wooltop)isoneofthebestwoolfibers
fornunofelting.Thefinelongfibersofmerinowoolroving
(wooltop)canworktheirwaythroughlightweightopen
weavesilkfabricseasilycreatingnunofelt.Merinowool
roving(wooltop)isgenerallylessthan22microns,andthe
lowerthemicronthebetterfornunofelting.
ClassificationofWoolFibers
FourfactorsintheClassificationofWoolFibers
Staple
Thelengthoftheindividualwoolfibersisreferredto
asstaple.
Crimp
Thenumberofwavesalongthelengthofthewool
fiberisreferredtoascrimp.
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Thenumberofscalesalongthelengthofthewool
Luster fiberdeterminestheshineafibergivesandis
referredtoasluster.
Count
Count,orfineness,isthemostsignificant.(See
WoolGradeSystemstablebelow.)
WoolGradeSystems
WoolGradeSystemsintheUnitedStates
IntheUS,gradeclassifieswoolfinenessbasedonfiber
diameter
(notonqualityortype,seedefinitionsbelow).
Blood
Thebloodsystemgradeswoolfibersfrom
finesttocoarsest.Originallythiswasbasedon
theamountofMerinobloodinthesheepthat
producedthewool,with100%Merinoblood
beingthefinest.Todaybloodgradesindicatethe
fiberdiameter.Thissystemisoutdatedandnot
recognizedbytheUSDepartmentof
Agriculture.
Thenumericalcountsystemgradeswool
fiberswitha"count"basedonfiberdiameter.
Thecountreferstothehanksofyarn,each560
Numerical
yardslong,whichcanbespunfrom1poundof
Count
wooltop.Wooltopwithagradeof64'swould
produce35,840yards(560x64)ofyarnfrom
onepound.
Micron
Themicronsystemaccuratelygradeswool
fibersbasedontheactualaveragefiber
diameter.
BradfordSystem,atraditionalEnglishclassification
systemofwoolfibers
(TheUSnumericalcountsystemandbloodsystem
relatetothissystem.)
Englishwoolhandlersclassifiedwoolbasedon
theirexperience,estimatingthenumberof
hanksthatcouldbespunfromapoundofwool.
Bradford
ThissystemwasbasedonwoolfromtheMerino
System
sheepwhichcreatedthefinestwool.Different
sheepbreedsareknowntoproducedifferent
counts.
UnitedStatesStandardsfor
Gradesof:
WOOL
WOOLTOP
NumericalCountSystem
Micron
System
Micron
System
Finerthan80's
17.69
18.09
80's
17.70
19.14
18.10
19.59
70's
19.15
20.59
19.60
21.09
64's
20.60
22.04
21.10
22.59
62's
22.05
23.49
22.60
24.09
60's
23.50
24.94
24.10
25.59
58's
24.95
26.39
25.60
27.09
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56's
26.40
27.84
27.10
28.59
54's
27.85
29.29
28.60
30.09
50's
29.30
30.99
30.10
31.79
48's
31.00
32.69
37.80
33.49
46's
32.70
34.39
33.50
35.19
44's
34.40
36.19
35.20
37.09
40's
36.20
38.09
37.10
38.99
36's
38.10
40.20
39.00
41.29
Coarserthan36's
40.21
41.30
(source:UnitedStatesStandardsforGradesofWool)
ProcessingMethodsofWoolFibers(Sliver,Tops,andRoving)
Sliver,tops,androvingareproducedasanintermediate
stepintheprocessingofwoolformanufacturing.Woolfibers
areprocessedintoproductsviaoneoftwomethods.The
worstedsystemofmanufacturing,utilizesthelongerlength
woolswithinagrade.Thewoolensystemofmanufacturing,
utilizestheshorterlengthwoolswithinagrade.
Thewoolisscouredtoremovethebulkoftheimpuritiesby
washing.Then,thewooliscarded.Thecleandrywoolpasses
throughrollersthathavethinwireteethwhichuntanglethe
fibersandarrangethemintoaflatsheetcalledaweb.The
webisthenformedintonarrowropes,orslivers.Ifthe
batchofwoolisforthewoolensystem,thesliversare
gentlytwistedintoropelikestrandscalledrovingandwound
intoballs.Ifthebatchofwoolisfortheworstedsystem,the
sliversarecombedtoremovetheshorterfibersornoilsand
createsmoothparallelfibersproducingwooltop.Thewool
topisalsogentlytwistedintoropelikestrandscalledroving
andwoundintoballs.
DefinitionsofWoolFibers
DefinitionsofWoolFibers
(source:UnitedStatesStandardsforGradesofWool)
Card
sliver
Woolthathasbeenscouredandcardedand
formedintoacontinuous,untwistedstrandof
looselyassembledfibers.
Fineness Thistermreferstofiberdiameter.
Fleece
Thewoolofonesheepobtainedbyshearing.
(1)Withrespecttowool,thistermmeansa
numericaldesignationofwoolfinenessbasedon
averagefiberdiameterandvariationoffiber
diameter.Itdoesnotincludecharacteristicssuch
aslength,crimp,strength,elasticity,luster,
hand,andcolorallofwhichaffectthe
spinnabilityofwoolandthepropertiesoftheyarn
andfabricandwhichareusuallyreferredtoas
"quality."Neitherdoesitapplytowoolby
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Grade
geographicorigin,breedofsheep,mannerof
preparationformarket,oracombinationof
characteristicswhichmakeswoolappropriatefor
aspecificuse.Thesecharacteristicsareusually
referredtoas"type."
(2)Withrespecttowooltop,thistermmeansa
numericaldesignationofwooltopfinenessbased
onaveragefiberdiameterdispersion.Itdoesnot
includecharacteristicssuchaslength,crimp,
strength,elasticity,luster,hand,andcolorallof
whichaffectthespinnabilityofwoolandthe
propertiesoftheyarnandfabric.The
characteristicsareusuallyreferredtoas
"quality."GreasewoolWool,asobtainedfrom
livingsheep.
Micron
Aunitoflinearmeasurementequalto1/1000
millimeteror1/25400inch.
Pulled
wool
Woolobtainedfromthepeltsofsheepbypulling
orsimilarmeansaftersubjectingthepeltto
sweating,theuseofadepilatory,orother
auxiliarytreatmenttoloosenthewoolfibersfrom
theskin.
Woolfromwhichthebulkoftheimpuritieshave
Scoured
beenremovedbywashinginwarmwater,soap,
wool
andalkaliorbyanequivalentprocess.
Skirted
fleece
Afleecefromwhichthebelly,britch,andstained
portionshavebeenremoved.
Sorted
wool
Woolremovedfromvariouspartsoffleecesand
combinedintodifferentgroupsorsorts,eachof
whichhascloselysimilarfineness,length,and
otherqualities.
Wool
Thefiberfromthefleeceofsheep.
Acontinuousuntwistedstrandofscouredwool
Wooltop fibersfromwhichtheshorterfibersornoilshave
beenremovedbycombing.
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