Haps Magazine - Korea - Issue 31, Jun/Jul 2014

2002-present: Associate professor, The Sahlgrenska Academy, University of Gothenburg, Sweden,
Professor Young-Taeg Sul graduated Seoul National University in 1987 and received his Ph.D. degree
from University of Gothenburg, Sweden in 2002, following a professorship at the Sahlgrenska Academy, University of Gothenburg, Sweden. Hashas received widespread recognition, including more
than 70 papers in international journals, more than 20 implant-related international patents, and
more than 70 invited lectures to professional audiences all over the world. He has been serving as a
reviewer for several international scientific journals and is an external expert on international
academic positions including clinical research consultant (THE USA DENTAC & THE UNITED STATES
ARMY), external and internal chief technology officer or consultant for several implant-oriented
commercial companies. Other international awards include several Best Top 10 conference papers
(UK 2001, USA 2002, USA 2006), most cited article, top 3 (Med Eng Phys, 2010). In Google Scholar,
Professor Suls articles show a total of 2695 science citations, since 2001.
Its Your Choice

36 years of proud history caring for the specialist needs of the women of Busan.
English service is available for OB/GYN and Plastic Surgery departments.
Native English speaking coordinator is available upon request. We can also provide Chinese,
Japanese and Russian translators.
Insurance claims can be made on behalf of patients to our partner insurance companies
Euro-Center, MSH CHINA, Metlife, Bupa.
24 hours emergency rooms are available at Good Moonhwa and our partner
hospitals Good Gang-an & Good Samsun.
Fertility Center
Getting Back Your Baby Face

While aging is a natural process, we dont necessarily have to like its physical results. New
procedures are available to help turn back the hands of time and restore that youthful glow.
s people advance in age, it is natural that the contours

of the face begin to sag and droop. And while the rest
of the body gains weight, facial volume often does not
recover. This is behind patients increasing interest to
restore their facial volume. Recently, various procedures that
can increase facial volume and smooth out facial skin have been
introduced. Among them, both autologous fat transfer and
stem cell transplant procedures have become more popular.
Autologous fat transfer is a surgical procedure that smooths
out facial skin by increasing elasticity and restoring the natural facial line. This is done by transferring unnecessary fat from
the lower abdomen, the hips, or the thighs using a specially
designed syringe that separates the pure fats before grafting
them into wrinkled or shrunken areas of the face. Because the
fat is taken from the patients own body, autologous fat transfer has fewer side effects and its outcome is more natural compared to surgical procedures using artificial implants or synthetic materials.
Autologous fat transfer has the additional advantage of reshaping the body itself by removing fat in the fleshy lower abdomen, hips and thighs. Once fat is removed, it can be stored
and transferred again later. Because only autologous tissue is
used, the graft site retains its previous smoothness, and it is a
simple surgery that results in almost no scarring or bleeding.
Although fat is taken directly from the patients own body,
there is a chance that the graft survival rate will be low. The
graft survival rate, which dictates the success of fulfilling the
patients objectives, is the ratio of grafted tissue that survives
when transferred into facial tissue. One way to maximize the ef-
image
fect is through the use of stem cells. All fat cells contain stem
cells, and if fat cells extracted from the abdomen or other donor
sites are transferred immediately to the face, the effect of stem
cells, which proliferate and are maintained according to any cellular situation, cannot realize their full potential.
Therefore, only when stem cells are separated using a stateof-the-art stem cell extractor and are then mixed with pure fat
cells and injected into the face, can the graft survival rate be
increased. This method can increase the graft survival rate of fat
cells by up to 60 - 70%, and once engrafted, these cells will survive semi-permanently, with the facial anti-aging effects lasting
for more than 10 years.
As the extraction of stem cells is a complicated process, sterile facilities must be well-equipped, and the staffs know-how
of extracting and processing tissue is essential to carry out the
safe surgical procedure customized for an individual. Thus, it is
necessary to be careful when selecting a hospital.
There also are precautions in autologous fat transfer. If an excessive amount of fat is injected or the patients physical condition is too sensitive, the following side effects may occur: a lump
of fat may be necrotized, the facial surface may become rough,
or the graft site may suffer severe swelling, a lump or a bruise.
This is why choosing a highly trained doctor is key. The most
important thing is to obtain the desired facial volume-up effect by maintaining the high graft survival rate even with a small
amount of fat cells. Those who elect to have this surgery need to
have sufficient consultation and accurate diagnosis before the
procedure begins, and then undergo autologous fat transfer
safely and naturally without unreasonable expectations.
Although autologous fat transfer may lead to the desired
dramatic outcomes - such as a higher forehead, smoother facial contours and improved nasolabial folds - the side effects
may prevent complete satisfaction. These can often be avoided when post-surgical instructions and treatments are strictly
followed. After autologous fat transfer, it is advisable to get
enough sleep and to eat well for the first three months as well
as to avoid excessive drinking and smoking.
For more information, please contact Coordinator Seo Mi-young
at 051-630-0123/010-9345-4556.
CONTENTS
FEATURES
A Tale of Two Cities | 20

Operation Beautiful | 22
Places to See in Korea | 24
REGULARS
Events: The Big Five | 12

The Haps: Word on the Street | 14
News: In the News | 16
Material World | 18
Tharp On: Motorcycles | 54
SPORT
The Master | 34
TRAVEL
My, My, My Barcelona | 30

Busans Beaches | 32
COMMUNITY
Medical Tourism Centers

Spring Up Around Korea | 36
Spin, DJ, Spin | 37
Haeundaes New Seaside
Attraction | 37
BUSINESS SPOTLIGHT
California RePublic | 38
CJ Hellovision Teams up
with Google | 37
FOOD
Shinae | 40
Patbingsu| 41
ART & CULTURE
Interview: David A. Mason | 42
DIRECTORY/GUIDES
Hotel News & Directory | 44
Directory | 46-52
Busan Metro Map | 52
Area Maps | 46-53
THIS PAGE; Picturesque houses at Tibidabo mount, Barcelona.
8
HAPS_summer 2014
EDITORS LETTER
oull be hard pressed to find

any indication of it in the following pages, but between
you, me and several thousand
others, this issue marks the 5th Anniversary of Haps. Five years of four guys: myself, Michael Schneider, Jeff Liebsch and
Russell McConnell, joined by an extensive
community of writers, photographers,
and artists, putting something together
that, from this vantage point, seems an
unimaginable length of time.
OK, now I quit.
No, but seriously...Happy Birthday, Haps.
This issue, as with the past 30, is full of
great stuff. The cover story offers up five
places that you must go in Korea before
youre allowed to leave. In short, these
are the places that you need to visit before you can confidently look someone in
the eye back home and say that you know
Korea. Issue 31 also serves up some informative articles on life here on the peninsula. James Turnbull looks at the efforts
of body-image activist Min-ji Kim, who

is hard at work trying to stem the tide of
an increasingly image-conscious world.
Author Shivaji Dass piece, A Tale of Two
Cities, looks at a day in the life of two of
Koreas most prominent expat enclaves.
Hal Swindall has put his diners pen aside
this issue and takes a look at Korean Buddhism with David A. Mason, author of An
Encyclopedia of Korean Buddhism, and
Marius Stankiewicz interviews Rafal Olenski, Polish-born and former world international taekwondo champion.
As usual, there is a ton of stuff about
great food, events, things to do and a
wealth of other information to get you
where you need to go in Korea.
On behalf of all of us at Haps who
have dedicated ourselves to putting this
thing together over the past five years,
thank you for your continued support.
Without you, none of this would have
been possible.
ON THE COVER
Haps 31st issue features five places that
you have to see in
Korea before you can
go back home and
tell people that you
have been to Korea.
Cover image by Chris
Cusick. Image on this
page courtesy of photodune.
WHATS INSIDE
THE
BEST OF
BARCELONA
30
Most of us living in Korea choose Asian-based destinations for our holiday

travel. Why not log a little more flight time and head over to Europe?
H Regulars
CONTRIBUTORS
JEN SOTHAM
Haps culture editor and food writer Jen
hails from New York and has been eating
her way through Busan since 2006. The
first phrase she learned in Korean was
chal-mo-gu-sum-ni-da.
KELVIN BRASSBRIDGE II
Kelvin is an American graphic designer from the state of Maine. He has lived
in Busan with his wife, dog and cat for
three years. He has never been abducted
by a UFO, so dont bring it up if you ever
meet him.
AMY STEELE
Copy editor Amy, an avowed sucker for
slow blues tunes and cheap red wine,
spent the better part of the last decade
working in advertising and PR. A newbie to
both Busan and Haps, shes returned to her
journalism roots and feels right at home.
JAMES TURNBULL
Since coming to Korea in 2000, James
has become widely known for his
highly regarded blog The Grand Narrative where he examines gender issues.
He lives in Busan with his wife and two
daughters, Alice and Elizabeth.
SETH FELLENZ
Haps music editor Seth Fellenz has
moved from Wisconsin to Busan twice.
When hes not busy playing screen golf
or grocery shopping, you can find him
around town laughing at his own jokes,
some of which are pretty funny.
CHRIS THARP
Chris hails from Washington State and

has lived in Busan for over six years. When
not banging on a guitar or screaming into
a microphone, he likes to write. If you buy
him a drink, hell tell you all about the
times he met Kurt Cobain, but you probably already know the story.
CHRISTY SWAIN
A fashion-loving girl, this Kiwi would like
to divide her time between Paris and Milan, but for now, shell settle for Busan,
browsing the vintage stores of Seomyeon
or the High St. in Nampo-dong.
10 HAPS_summer 2014
PUBLISHER
Ju Shin-hye
EDITOR IN CHIEF
Bobby McGill
SALES DIRECTOR
Michael Schneider
MANAGING EDITOR
Jeff Liebsch
CULTURE EDITOR
Jen Sotham
ART DIRECTOR
Russell McConnell
WEBMASTER
Danny Himes
FASHION EDITOR
Christy Swain
MUSIC EDITOR
Seth Fellenz
COPY EDITOR
Amy Steele
WRITERS:
Chris Tharp
James Turnbull
Christy Swain
Jeff Liebsch
Bobby McGill
Dr. Jaesong Koo
Shivaji Das
Marius Stankiewicz
John Dunphy
Anthony Velasquez
Hal Swindall
TRANSLATION:
Junnie Ahn
DESIGNERS:
Kelvin Brassbridge II
PHOTOGRAPHERS:
Chris Cusick
Scott Rotzoll
Vincent Carvalho
Jisu Lim
Marius Stankiewicz
Stinkie Pinkie
Jason Teale
Jamie Alexander
ILLUSTRATORS:
Michael Roy
ACCOUNTS SERVICES
Bak Seon-mi
INTERN:
Ji-woon Ko
Follow us @busanhaps
Busan Haps Magazine
SUBMISSIONS
BUSAN HAPS
busanhaps@gmail.com
Summer 2014 Issue 31
BUSINESS REGISTRATION
ADVERTISING
mikey.busanhaps@gmail.com
NUMBER: 00001
FIRST PUBLICATION
DATE: Sept, 2, 2009
OFFICE ADDRESS:
Pale de CZ, 2-19, Jung Dong
1124-2, Haeundae-gu
Busan, Republic
of Korea
DISCLAIMER:
The opinions in the magazine
are not necessarily
those of the publisher.
Questions or comments:
busanhaps@gmail.com
2014 Busan Haps Magazine
WISH WE
WERE THERE
GREAT EVENTS HAPPENING ALL AROUND
THE GLOBE. HERES A COUPLE WE WISH
WE COULD GET TO.
STONEHENGE SUMMER SOLSTICE

WILTSHIRE, ENGLAND, JUNE 18-22
The mythological stone sculptures of Wiltshire County, England
attract thousands to watch the sunrise and worship the sun
during the northern hemispheres shortest night of the year. As
its one of the few times of the year that visitors are actually allowed to touch the stones, revelers feel a spiritual connection
and grounding force from the mere physical contact with these
religious rocks.
EXIT FESTIVAL
NOVI SAD, SERBIA, JULY 9-13
The wild, all-out, all-night, every night music festival takes
place on the banks of the Danube at Novi Sads 17th century
island fortress. The event mixes up radical politics, a beautiful
setting and unparalleled musical offerings. With over 16 stages
filled with top-notch musicians, a dance party each night after
2 a.m. features electronic acts performing until dawn with allnight revelers partying into the wee hours of the morning.
FIND US ON
THE WEB HERE

www.busanhaps.com
2014 summer _ busanhaps.com 11
H Regulars
Events & Culture
BUSAN CHINATOWN
FESTIVAL JUNE 13-15
Entering its 11th year and rescheduled
after the Sewol ferry accident, the Busan
Chinatown Special Zone Cultural Festival
brings a taste of Asias largest country to
Choryang, Dong-gu district, which is located across from Busan Station. Street
performances, exhibitions, food and plenty of musical performances are on offer at
the three-day festival, which is the biggest
gathering of the Chinese community in
the city each year. www.chinatown-f.com
THE
BIG
FIVE
VIENNA CHAMBER
ORCHESTRA JUNE 17
BORYEONG MUD
FESTIVAL JULY 18-27
BUSAN INT. KIDS FILM

FESTIVAL JULY 23-27
Founded in 1946 and based at the Vienna

Konzerthaus, the Austrian-based Vienna
Chamber Orchestra will host a series of
concerts around the peninsula, including in Daegu on June 12 and Changwon on the 13th, before embarking on
their Busan performance on the 17th at
the Busan Cultural Center. Pianist Lim
Dong-hyek and violinists Richard Yongjae ONeill and Kang Clara-Jumi join the
orchestra for a night of Mozart under the
artistic direction of Stefan Vladar.
Arguably the largest and most popular international festival in the country, the 17th
Boryeong Mud Festival pays homage to
the mixture of water and soil. Daecheon
Beach in Chungcheongnam Province becomes a brief home to mud wrestling, sliding and swimming in a mega mud-tub.
Over the festivals 10 days, one can also
spot night concerts, fireworks, a mud marathon, painting and mud massages.
www.mudfestival.or.kr
Now in its 9th year, BiKi is a collection of

creative domestic and foreign short and
feature films. A competitive section of
movies made by children are just a sampling of the five-day event, which also
includes special exhibitions and cultural
performances, concerts, seminars and a
playground around the Busan Cinema
Center. Under this years theme, Ready
Action, the film festival is highly regarded internationally as one of the best in
Asia. www.biki.or.kr
BUSAN SEA FESTIVAL

AUGUST 1-7
The 19th Busan Sea Festival encompases
a weeks worth of festivals all rolled into
one around the five major beaches located in the city limits. Composed of five
different event themes, the festival brings
music, marine sports and local and international performers to the more than 35
scheduled events that take place. Gwangalli and Haeundae beaches are home to
the majority of events, which have made
the festival one of the most anticipated
every summer.
www.seafestival.co.kr
12 HAPS_summer 2014
PLEASE NOTE: DATES FOR EVENTS ARE SUBJECT TO CHANGE.
Out & About
NEW ZEALAND
WINE FEST 2014
Photos by
Jason Teale
After last years highly successful debut of the

New Zealand Wine Festival in Busan, the Kiwi
Chamber of Commerce decided to do it again.
It was an even bigger hit this year with 300
plus in attendance. If you missed it this time
around, see you there next year!
H Regulars
WORD ON THE STREET

BIFF RELEASES ITS 2014 POSTER
The 19th Busan International Film Festival (BIFF) selected its official poster, which is
based on the original work Emotion1/4 Y.R.G.W by Korean painted sculpture artist
Lee Hyuck-jin and designed by BIFFs art director, Choi Soon-dae.
Emotion1/4 Y.R.G.W is a painted sculpture produced by combining pictures and
long pieces cut from boards made of fiber on top of resin. They were assembled by
entwining horizontal and vertical pieces, much like traditional Korean basket weaving, followed by painting on the surface. The togetherness of films, audiences and
cineastes is represented by the intertwined pieces, and the bright colors reflect the
celebratory nature of the Busan International Film Festival.
This years installment of BIFF takes place from October 2 - 11.
DID YOU KNOW?

THE FIRST MCDONALDS
DRIVE-THRU IN KOREA
OPENED IN HAEUNDAE IN 1992.
BETWEEN 1992 AND 1997,
THE NUMBER OF CARS REGISTERED IN KOREA DOUBLED
FROM 5 TO 10 MILLION.
THE ORGANISATION FOR
ECONOMIC CO-OPERATION
AND DEVELOPMENT (OECD)
HAS DECLARED SOUTH KOREA
AS THE COUNTRY WITH THE
HIGHEST ESTIMATED
NATIONAL IQ.
SHIN SAIM-DONG, THE WOMAN
ON THE 50,000 WON BILL IS
THE MOTHER OF LEE YOL-GOK
(YI I), THE MAN ON THE
5,000 WON BILL.
OVERHEARD
THE TRIGRAMS ON EACH

CORNER OF THE KOREAN FLAG
SYMBOLIZE THE UNIVERSAL
ELEMENTS HEAVEN, EARTH,
FIRE AND WATER.
FIRST PHASE OF THE

BIFC COMPLETED
The long-awaited opening of the Busan
International Finance Center (BIFC)
in Munhyeon-dong arrives on June
26, as the newest skyscraper to grace
the citys landscape opens its doors
to house key financial institutions, including the main branch of the Busan
Bank, the Busan branch of the Bank of
Korea and the Korea Technology Finance
Corporation. The second phase of the
project involves constructing officetels
and commercial facilities, and the third
phase consists of residential officetels
and a business hotel, according to the
city newspaper, Dynamic Busan.
The futuristic Landmark Tower, which
boasts 63 floors and is 289 meters high,
reflects the citys aspirations to become
a regional hub for international finance
markets. When completed in 2019, the
BIFC will act as a new type of multi-functional complex, combining financial,
accommodation, retail, shopping and
cultural facilities.
The team is young compared to previous squads, but I dont think they are behind in
terms of experience and talent. South Korean national football coach
Hong Myung-bo on his teams chances at the 2014 World Cup.
I express very strong regret that North Korea makes such provocations at a time when
our people are in deep sadness after the Sewol disaster. President Park Geun-hye
after North Korea fired two artillery shells over the Northern Limit Line (NLL) in late May.
14 HAPS_summer 2014
Community & Living
BUSANS NEW PLAZA

The latest in the citys key projects to open to the public is the
Song Sang-hyeon Plaza, the countrys largest, which opened
June 12. Set to become one of the most picturesque parts of
the city, the 34,000-square-meter urban center in the heart
of the city encompasses Jeonpo-dong and Yangjeong-dong
in Busanjin-gu and is nearly 50% larger than Gwanghwamun
Square in Seoul. Features of the new area include a forested
area, performance areas, cafes and a Sunken Plaza where local
artists can display their art. The plaza is set to become one of
the citys newest locations to host a myriad of events throughout the year.
IPARKS KEEPER HEADS TO BRAZIL

Busan IPark goalkeeper Lee Beum-young was one of six domestic football league members selected to represent Korea
at the 2014 Brazil World Cup, underway June 12.
The 25-year-old Lee gained national fame at the 2012 London
Olympics when he was a late injury substitution in the quarterfinals against Great Britain. He knocked the hosts out after
a save on Daniel Sturridges fifth shot in the penalty shootout,
sending Korea to their first ever semi-final appearance.
South Korea sent their youngest and tallest squad ever this
year, with an average age of 25.9 years and an average height
of 184 cm. They face a tough challenge in Group H with Belgium, Russia and Algeria all looking to advance. Korea is the
lowest seed in the group, currently ranked 55th in the world.
South Korea World Cup Fixtures

June 18 Korea vs. Russia - 7 a.m.
June 23 Korea vs. Algeria - 4 a.m.
June 27 Korea vs. Belgium - 5 a.m.
H Regulars
IN THE NEWS
NO CHEESE FOR YOU!
S. KOREA BIDS FOR 2019 WOMENS WORLD CUP

South Korea is looking to add another major sporting event to its resume, as the
country has entered the race to win the rights to host the 2019 FIFA Womens World
Cup along with four other countries. England, France, New Zealand and South Africa, as well as South Korea, submitted their letters of intent to host the games, which
are held every four years.
The Korea Football Association said it has applied for the games to further promote
womens football and to raise national interest in the sport. South Korean women
are currently 18th in the world rankings.
The host for the 2019 games will be decided at the first FIFA executive committee
meeting in 2015. The 2015 Womens World Cup, to be held in Canada, is set to grow
from 16 to 24 countries and from 32 to 52 matches, where Japan, who became the
first Asian nation to win the Womens World Cup in 2011, look to defend their title.
South Africa, which has already been awarded to host the 2016 U-20 Womens
World Cup, may have a slight advantage in the bidding as the governing body of
world football, FIFA, says that in principle, it prefers one nation to stage both events.
North Korean leader Kim Jong-uns

love of fromage apparently is not being met in the reclusive state. So what
does the Dear Leader do when he
cant get good-quality cheese in his
country? He sends three envoys to
France to learn from the best.
And thats just what happened this
past April, when officials from North
Korea visited the National Dairy Industry College (ENIL), based in Mamirolle in Franche-Comt, in the hope
of sending experts to the college to
be trained to produce high-quality
cheese.
The small school, which trains about
600 students, including international
students from as far away as Morocco,
Russia and Senegal, politely declined
the North Korean request, citing a lack
of space in the class, though many
suspect other reasons for the denial.
The refusal came as a huge disappointment to North Koreas supreme
leader, who is said to have developed
a strong penchant for Switzerlands
Emmental cheese while studying in
the country during his formative years.
CATCH ME IF YOO CAN

Yoo Byung-eun, the de facto owner of the sunken Sewol ferry,
is on the run, making him the most wanted man in the country.
The 73-year-old ferry patriarch was charged with tax evasion
and embezzlement among his alleged illegal business practices, such as overloading ships, leading to the April 16 Sewol
ferry tragedy, which left over 300 dead or missing.
The Incheon Metropolitan Police Agency distributed wanted
flyers to 250 police precincts across the country for Yoo and
his eldest son Dae-gyun, who is a major shareholder of Chonghaejin Marine Company, the holding company of the ferry operator. His daughter, Seom-na, was arrested in France on May
27 and is facing extradition procedures, while his youngest
son, who currently lives overseas, also faces an arrest warrant
and has had his passport revoked by the Ministry of Foreign
Affairs.
The massive manhunt brought over 150 of the countrys most
experienced detectives and police officers to search for the
father and son, with tens of thousands of posters of the pair
plastered in public places around the country. A 500-millionwon reward is offered for the whereabouts of Yoo, with an additional 100 million for his son. The arresting officers also have
been promised a promotion of one rank if they capture either
of the elusive pair.
16 HAPS_summer 2014
Korea & World News
REUNIFICATION
TOO COSTLY FOR SOME
Though the Park Geun-hye government has been keen to
bring up the on-again, off-again topic of reunification, not everyone in the country is hopeful of the two Koreas reuniting
anytime soon, according to a new poll. Statistics suggest that
many people in South Korea are opposed to reunification, although primarily because of the cost.
The poll, commissioned by Seoul National University, showed
that four out of 10 South Koreans are not willing to cover the
costs of reunification. A government think tank has estimated
that the initial cost of reunification may be as high as US $1 trillion, mostly because of the lack of infrastructure in the North.
Others say the number may be even higher.
While reunification is official policy in both the North and
South, South Korean presidents have often touted its political, social and ethical value to balance the considerable cost of
absorbing the North, according to the BBC.
The Chosun Ilbo also conducted a survey that showed only
just over 30% of the nation thought the benefits of reunification would outweigh the costs, and more than two-thirds did
not expect it to benefit individual South Koreans directly.
President Park Geun-hye has advocated for reunification as
a potential economic bonanza, though she admitted public
interest in unification has declined in an interview with Bloomberg News in January.
H Regulars
MATERIAL WORLD
EXPENSIVE BIKES:
JUST BECAUSE
Whether tooling around the side streets of Korea or taking to

the open road, a bike can be a friend and a faithful steed. How
much youre willing to pay for that friendship is up to you, but
allow us to introduce you to a few of the high-end rollers.
LYNSKEY LITESPEED C1
The Lynskey website reads: Were located in the quiet town of Chattanooga, Tennessee but the bikes we make are anything but that. OK, so they need a better copywriter on the website, but if youre looking for something solid to mount, Lynskey has
you covered. Peninsula-side, their bikes will run you from 5 million won up to a cool
15 million. Still reading? The Litespeed company, founded by the Lynskey family, specializes in titanium and carbon-fiber frames. Lance Armstrong rode a Litespeed Blade,
painted and labeled as a Trek brand bike, during the 1999 Tour de France time trials.
Apparently, this is not uncommon, as pro cyclists would rather ride a Litespeed frame
over that made by their sponsors. Buy online or ask your local dealer where you can
pick one up. www.lynskeyperformance.com
STRIDA
Strida is one of the lightest, fastest folding bicycles on the market. It
comes with a sturdy, yet light-weight aluminum frame, solid components and a kevlar belt, rather than a chain. A plus being that you can
say goodbye to grease and grime (in case you want to bicycle to your
wedding). A more likely advantage of the kevlar belt is that it never
needs to be adjusted. And whatever worries you might have about the
belt breaking, forget about it - the material is the same used by Harley
Davidson on its slightly more torque-heavy, two-wheeled, noise pollution machines. (Editors note: This is in no way meant to offend Harley
riders. While the roar has run its course and seen its day, we do respect
that a great many Harley riders are larger than some of our staff combined.) Depending on the model, Strida will run you between 600,000
to 800,000 won. www.strida.com
BROMPTON
Founded in 1976 and based in Greater London, the Brompton
company makes the sturdy line of foldable bikes that you see
more and more people tooling around town on. With a superb
ride, the bike can be folded into a carry-on in 20 seconds.
Albeit a heavy carry-on, it does make for a convenient set of
wheels in suburbia. With a price tag thatll run you over 2 million won, youll probably want to keep it in your bedroom. You
can check out a wide selection of Bromptons at Cafe 6ixmiles
in Marine City. The generously open corner location just off the
water also serves as a rest spot for large numbers of weekend
riders. facebook.com/cafe6miles
18 HAPS_summer 2014
Gadgets & Gear
PLAYDATE BIKE CLUB STANDARD

SINGLE SPEED BICYCLE
Ride around like a real playa. Shoulders back, hands resting atop
the handlebars. Its cruise time. Courtesy of our Japanese neighbors comes Playdate Bike Club, what they refer to as a mixture
of throwback style and high-performance components - presenting a uniquely nostalgic, modern bicycle that looks good
and rides better. And, its got the cool name to boot. This highrider city cruiser will run you over a million won, but you will
surely ride off the sticker shock after a few leisurely kilometers.
facebook.com/playdatebikeclubjapan
BURLEY BICYCLE TRAILER

A car has a trunk, so why shouldnt your bike have one? We dont
advise putting your kid in the trunk, but you can safely put them
in the Burley Bicycle Trailer. No kids? Then throw your tent and
sleeping bag in there and head up the coast for a few days of riding and camping. If you treat your gear like your child and want
it to ride comfortably and safely, then youll be glad to know
that the Burley comes with a padded, hammock-style seat, a
lightweight aluminum frame and a five-point harness system.
Were not sure how much better that is than a four-point harness system, but hell, you can never be too careful with the safety of your sleeping bag. You can pick one up online or at a local
bike shop for just under a million won. www.burley.com
DAHON D7 OBSIDIAN
Dahon is another of the folding bikes genus, featuring some of
the most popular folders on the market. Former physicist Dr.
David Hon spent seven years in his Los Angeles garage perfecting the first Dahon bike. His founding mission was to make a
greener world. Being green aint cheap, so look to plop down
over a million won for the good doctor, whose highly regarded bicycles now occupy two-thirds of the folding bike market
worldwide, having won Europes prestigious Eurobike award
three times at the worlds largest international bike show.
It folds up in a few simple steps and is built with the highest
quality components, so you can pass it down to the grandkid
someday. www.dahon.com
HInside
STORY
A Tale of Two Cities:

Ansan and Itaewon
Story & Photos By Shivaji
Das
Ansan: the industrial cluster. Itaewon: a center for expat entertainment. Both migrant
outposts in a homogenous Korea, with their own take on the foreign workers life.
Ansan, the Multicultural City; Itaewon, the Western Town:

what makes them so special in an otherwise largely homogenous Korea?
I head first to Ansan, an hours journey from Seoul by train.
Most migrants reside at Wongok-Dong, The Borderless Village.
Along a narrow lane, glass storefront windows are crowded with
signage in English, Vietnamese, Chinese, Russian, Thai and Bengali. They are selling Sichuan chili, curry powder, sambal paste
and phone cards - cheapest rates, maximum talk time and money transfers - lots of money transfers. The crowd is slowly moving along this lane, branded Multicultural Food Street. A Christian group, all dressed in orange, is distributing pamphlets. I
hear Mandarin everywhere. The steam clouds rising from stacks
of Chinese dumplings set the mood. Ansans Wongok-Dong is
not a global village but a Chinese village.
I meet Park Jungan from the Migrant Community Service Center. She tells me that of the 761,000 residents in Ansan, 7.6%
are foreigners, as opposed to the national average of 2.2%.
Migrants from 78 countries are represented here, but over 70%
of them are of Chinese or Korean descent. The rest are primarily
Uzbeks, Vietnamese, Indonesians, Russians, Filipinos, Nepali,
Thai and Sri Lankans. Park explains, Koreans are used to a
homogenous society. But we need foreigners for the three
D jobs dirty, dangerous and demeaning. We help migrants
assimilate by organizing sports and cultural events, providing multilingual counselling services, conducting language
20 HAPS_summer 2014
classes and running a shelter for migrant women who run

away from abusive husbands.
Around the small town, elderly Chinese men are playing chess,
cards or Jianzi. Many have gathered at the town square to listen
to a city officials speech. I ask two Nepali men listening attentively, Do you understand Korean? No, they smile. We are
just killing time.
A group of 10 Bangladeshis are going to Seoul Mosque. I speak
with a man named Habibur. After asking where I am from and
where in Bangladesh my parents come from, he asks me what
migrant workers always ask, Are you looking for a job here? I
could get you in touch with someone.
After I explain that I am not, he switches track. I have been
here for eight years, he says. They wont let me stay here anymore after this term ends. Can you get me a job in your company in Singapore?
His friend Arif asks, Brother, are you a Muslim? Not a problem.
We are all brothers sharing the same language. His voice turns
extremely civil. Life is not too bad here. But sometimes other
Korean workers shout at us. I think they say bad things.
I bid farewell to them and head for the Seoul neighborhood
of Itaewon. Big blocks of restaurants greet me with tables covered in long white sheets. Shop names are all in English. Some
storefronts imitate Victorian or Art Deco facades. Young Korean
couples are posing every other minute for selfies. This is their
local Western fix.
PREVIOUS PAGE, FROM LEFT TO RIGHT: 1. Itaewon chic 2. Itaewon Cool 3. Itaewon Style. THIS PAGE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: 1. Ansan Migrant
Community Service Center 2. Ansan market fruit vendor 3. Bustling Ansan street market 4. Malay restaurant 5. Chinese money transfer business
On the main street, men in American army uniforms are

looking for bargains. Korean men from the tailor shops,
which form the backdrop, are asking all, Do you want a shirt
made for you?
A Chinese tour group, guided by a yellow flag, emerges from
the subway station. The tourists dutifully go through the tiny
cubicle shops along the
pavement, all selling the
same items that infect
all touristy places: socks,
caps, souvenirs and witty
t-shirts. A whistle blows,
the flag stops and turns
around; the Chinese tourists go back to the underground world in unison.
Roy, an English teacher from Sacramento who has been in
Korea for over 10 years, explains, Back home, you cant get by
teaching English after paying all the hundred taxes. And in California, they keep bringing in laws to turn teachers into paupers.
No wonder English teachers are an abundant species in Korea.
He comes to Itaewon every weekend. You should come here
as a single. There are great clubs in this area, and Koreans are
very friendly, if you know what I mean, he winks. No problem
of assimilation here then. Not at all, he laughs. During the day,
you join them for treks, and during nights they join you for a
bumpy ride.
But this enchanting world is lost as one walks up the hill from
Itaewon. Distinctly Arab, South Asian and Malay faces are idling
against shop walls. Hijabs on mannequins, a Pakistani travel
agency, a Turkish kebab dig, a Malay restaurant; I can see the
minaret of Seoul Mosque. The Bangladeshis I met in Ansan are
distributing pamphlets about Islam from the mosque to any occasional Korean who drops by
to take photographs. Outside,
an elderly Korean woman is visiting every shop and asking the
shop owner in English, Where
are you from?
One shop owner inevitably
hesitates, Korea.
Dont say that, you understand! says the Korean woman. Say
what you are - a Pakistani. Enraged, she walks away to the next
store. I run for cover.
The steam clouds rising from stacks

of Chinese dumplings set the mood.
Ansans Wongok-Dong is not a
global village but a Chinese village.
Originally from the north-eastern province of Assam in India,

writer, traveller and photographer Shivaji Das now works as
a management consultant in Singapore. He is the author of
Journeys with the Caterpillar: Travelling through the Islands of
Flores and Sumba, Indonesia. You can follow him on Twitter @
ShivajiAuthor, or visit his website at www.shivajidas.com
HSocial
ISSUE
Operation Beautiful
By James
Turnbull
Ewha Womans University student Min-ji Kim has taken up the cause of body-image
activist, going against the grain of unrealistic body ideals for women.
Korea has a well-known reputation for perpetuating unrealistic body ideals for women - and deservedly so. It has the
highest per capita cosmetic surgery rate in the world. It is the
only country where young women are getting thinner rather
than more obese, according to the Organisation for Economic
Co-operation and Development (OECD). It is one of only two
countries in the OECD where employers have the right to demand resume photographs, which are routinely photoshopped.
Yet, this widespread body dysphoria is by no means uniquely Korean, and those headlines above could just as easily have
been applied to the US. But instead of noting these similarities,
overseas reporting tends to conform to Orientalist stereotypes
of Korean women as victims, shrouding the complexity of their
attitudes towards their bodies and the demands placed upon
them. It also undervalues the work of Korean body-image activists and organizations.
One such activist is Ewha Womans University student Min-ji
Kim, who was inspired to start her (Korean) blog, Real Beauty
Doesnt Hurt, as a means of recovering from a distorted bodyimage-related eating disorder and to reach out to others.
I recognized that it wasnt only me that was suffering, Minji explains, but when I was struggling with my disorder back
in high school and college in the US, there just werent many
resources out there, and I couldnt get any support because
awareness of it was very, very low. Even when I went to the
hospital, the doctors didnt really know about it, and I couldnt
even get any help from my family, who just thought I was being
weird.
Unfortunately, awareness in Korea was even lower. This makes
her blog play a crucial role for others seeking help.
22 HAPS_summer 2014
As a body-image activist, I dont have any tangible achievements [yet], but I can perhaps give myself some credit for giving
support to people who didnt have it before. For a lot of people,
my blog provides a hopeful story. It shows them that theyre not
alone, that they can overcome their eating disorders, and, crucially, that their disorders are not their fault. Thats my biggest
accomplishment.
It also led her to Operation Beautiful, a US-based website campaign, at the heart of which is the placing of post-it notes with
body positive, self-affirmation messages (and links) in such places as bathroom mirrors or on ads that promote a very narrow
range of and/or unrealistic beauty standards. Participants then
take photographs of them and upload them to the website.
Min-ji places many of hers on Line 3 of the Seoul subway,
which bombards commuters with promotions for cosmetic surgery clinics in Apgujeong. While simple-sounding, its a surprisingly effective method, now used by a number of organizations
working on body-image issues.
These messages create solidarity among people whose issues may have seemed daunting, because they were struggling
alone. But when people share their stories and start talking
about them? Then immediately they feel less lonely and empowered by knowing that there are other people like them out
there and that they do have a support system.
Another organization Min-ji collaborates with is Korea Womenlink, a womens rights organization, which is currently driving
a host of body-image campaigns involving university students.
One example from last year is a Seoul subway ad campaign,
which confronted the conformity of body-image demands on
women by comparing them to a barcode. The text read:
LEFT: SUPPORTERS OF THE MOVEMENT WHO SENT IN THEIR PHOTOS; RIGHT: FOUNDER MIN-JI KIM WITH NOTE READING, YOUR STAGE IS THE WORLD, NOT THE SCALES
Also, once while she was recovering in the hospital from a car
Society tells me I must have the same body, the same face, as everyone, but I do not want to be like that. To do so, I conform to a accident, her doctors used the opportunity to offer her some
standard made not by myself, but by others. The way I am now is additional cheap cosmetic surgery.
the one and only true form for me. It is just fine for me, and fine for Ultimately, headlines in the foreign media do speak to some
truth, Min-ji admits, and, identifying neither as Korean or Ameriyou, to just be the way we are.
Min-ji sees these campaigns as a definite spark, and welcomes can, is well placed to lament the big gap in mindset between
Koreans and the expat communithe recent news that the Seoul
ty as well as the lack of dialogue.
Metropolitan Government is to
FOR A LOT OF PEOPLE MY BLOG PROVIDES Likely, talking about rather than to
limit the number of cosmetic surgery advertisements to no more
A HOPEFUL STORY. IT SHOWS THEM THAT Koreans is why all too many expats
tend to stereotype Korean women
than 20 percent of subway station
THEYRE NOT ALONE, THAT THEY CAN
as victims. Against that, Min-ji has
ads and to ban them completely
OVERCOME THEIR EATING DISORDERS,
a powerful, final take-away mesfrom areas around schools. (It is
common to receive cosmetic surAND, CRUCIALLY, THAT THEIR DISORDERS sage to readers:
A US-based feminist I was having
gery as a graduation gift; some
ARE NOT THEIR FAULT.
a dialogue with, who had never
clinics also target middle schoolbeen to Korea, basically assumed
ers.) However, she believes restrictions on online advertisements would be much more effective that women in Korea were just oppressed, and that is just not
and that such measures do little to challenge the dynamic that the case. You know I live in Korea, Im a woman, and I feel very
empowered to be a woman. Korean women are very passiondrives women to make such huge sacrifices in the first place.
Peoples freedom to choose cosmetic surgery should be re- ate, and I know so many women who are doing their best to despected, says Min-ji. Some people effectively have to do velop their careers, to be good mothers, and women here thrive
it for the sake of their jobs, their careers, or their families and and flourish at both. I know that many people are still subject to
discrimination and live in poverty, but theres a great deal of acshouldnt be blamed for it.
As described by interviewees in Korean Womenlinks recent tivism, and a lot of policies are being implemented to improve
book, Are You Sorry Youre Fat?, these pressures include doctors that situation.
Things are not stagnant!
expecting nurses to be pretty and mothers viewing cosmetic
surgery as beneficial for their daughters careers. I myself am
quite skinny, Min-ji adds, but I too am regularly told to diet by
You can check out Operation Beautiful by visiting the website
classmates and friends, of both sexes.
at www.operationbeautiful.com
HCover
STORY
24 HAPS_summer 2014
Places to See in Korea,

Before Youre Allowed to Leave
Photography by
Chris Cusick, Scott Rotzoll & Vincent Carvalho
While many of us may never leave the peninsula, most of us will, and even more of
us will never visit all there is on offer. Haps has put together some must-see spots
for any Korean travel itinerary. By no means a definitive list, its enough to keep
you busy for a while.
THIS PAGE: Seoraksan National Park, Photography by Chris Cusick

The DMZ,
The War Stops Here

A day trip to the DMZ is like nothing youve experienced elsewhere.
Staring out across the most heavily
armed border in the world, the psychological impact alone is impressive. But hey, they have a Viking
ride, too! Tours start off in Seoul
and include visits to a border military base, long-abandoned infiltration tunnels built by the North
and the UN negotiation complex
that directly straddles the border.
An interesting and sometimes ignored aspect of the DMZ is that the
two-kilometer-wide stretch of land
is one of the most pristine nature
spots on the planet. If you step up
to the border at the right time, you
might catch sight of giant flocks
of waterfowl flying in large circles
into and out of South Korean territory as if there was no line there at
all. And theres a Viking!
Photography by Scott Rotzoll
26 HAPS_summer 2014
Jeju Island,
The Jeju of Korea
While calling it the Hawaii of Korea leans a bit to the side

of exaggeration, if you hit Jeju during the warm months,
it makes for a fine East Asian substitute - and the food
is actually better than Hawaii. Famed historically for its
wind, women and rocks, the island features other major attractions to travelers, too: white sandy beaches
and scenic natural wonders, including waterfalls and a
dormant volcano carved atop Koreas highest mountain,
Halla-san. Theres an abundance of restaurants with barbequed seafood or meat, which is best cooked on a slab
of Jejus endless supply of lava rock. The heaviest rain falls
in June, so keep that in mind.
Photography by Chris Cusick
Seoraksan Nat. Park,

The Path Well-Traveled
Named as Koreas first national park under the National

Park Law in 1970, Seoraksan National Park is one of the
countrys most well-preserved natural wonders. On the
mountainous grounds of the 164-square-kilometer plot,
you might get lucky to catch sight of a black bear or a
flying squirreljust two of the 1,562 animal species classified in the park so far. To get there, you can take one of
many buses departing from nearly any city or hop on a
plane to Yangyang in Gangwon Province at the far northern corner of the ROK. english.knps.or.kr
28 HAPS_summer 2014
Gyeongju,
Oh, Silla!
An hour away from Busan by express bus or by train, Gyeongju is

the historical crown jewel in the
Korean tourist crown. Popularly
known as The Museum without
Walls, the former seat of power for
the Silla Dynasty (57 bce - 935 ce) is
surrounded by a double range of
hills and mountains, which form
the perfect natural fortress for the
city. Spend a day or two roaming hundreds of ancient historical
remains, including grassy burial
mounds, centuries-old temples,
stone pagodas, imperial mausoleums and museums. Gyeongjus
close proximity to the sea also
makes it a haven for great seafood
restaurants.
Photography by Vincent Carvalho
Tongyeong,
of Oysters and Admirals

The artist enclave of Tongyeong is most well-known for
being the oyster capital of Korea as well as the home base
for supreme naval strategist Admiral Yi Sun Shin during
the 16th century Imjin War. Just an hour bus ride away
from Busan, this almost quaint port town is great for a
day of walking around or hiking on one of the many islands just off the coast. Theres a maze of wall-painted alleys near downtown as well as the historic Haejeong Tunnel, which was built by the Japanese in 1932 and holds
the distinction of being the first underwater tunnel in
all of Asia. Its one-lane road is now a walk-through exhibition of historical photographs and area history. eng.
tongyeong.go.kr
HTravel
INTERNATIONAL
My, My, My Barcelona

Story By Stella
Wilshire
How about mixing it up a bit this summer by flying over your favorite Asian destinations and
continuing on to Barcelona?
Spains second largest city and historic spread by the sea,
Barcelona offers an abundant mix of architectural styles and
vivid colors. From the centuries-old markets to the masterful
creations of Gaud to the storied old structures dating back to
the Romans, Barcelonas fun is on her streets.
Considering that Hercules is tied through legend to the founding, Barcelona is a city rich in history. Wander in and out of expansive markets, through gothic neighborhoods or along the
beautiful beaches, though its just as easy to step into one of
the many bars, restaurants or cafes and not come out for days.
On my first morning, I wandered through La Boqueria (also
known as Mercat de Sant Josep), which is one of Barcelonas

most popular food markets. An array of color greets you as you
make your way down the aisles, where thousands pass daily,
sorting through the endless stalls of produce, seafood and all
else. I could have stayed there my entire trip.
Barcelona is not a small town. Comprised of six districts that
house 1.6 million people, theres a lot of ground to cover. Ive
picked three cool neighborhoods, near the beach of course,
that are assured to keep you busy for a while.
1. LA BARCELONETA
In addition to enjoying a fictional visit from Don Quixote, La
Barceloneta is most well-known for its sandy beach. The street
off the beach is always a blast. Lined with restaurants and nightclubs, it remains a lively area regardless of the season. Whether I went topless on the beach shall remain in the vault. Personal pick: Be sure to check out the Casa de la Barceloneta, a
museum housed in a wonderfully preserved building dating
back to 1761.
2. THE GOTHIC QUARTER

One of the oldest and most well-preserved neighborhoods,
the Gothic Quarter offers narrow streets and small squares for
30 HAPS_summer 2014
PREVIOUS PAGE, FROM TOP: 1. Barcelona Park Guell of Gaudi Modernism. 2. Fruit stand in la Boqueria Market THIS PAGE, FROM TOP: 1. Barcelona Port Vell and la Barceloneta district. 2. Barcelona Cathedral.
witnessing all sorts of sights. Its home to an abundance of medieval architecture, some dating as far back as the Roman settlement of the city. A must-see is the Barcelona Cathedral (Catedral
de la Santa Cruz y Santa Eulalia), which saw its cornerstone first
laid in the 13th century. Interesting fact: The cathedral was built
to honor Eulalia of Barcelona, a Barcelona patron saint who, according to Catholic lore, was a young virgin delegated to martyrdom at the hands of the Romans. One legend recounts that
she was exposed naked in the public square when a sudden,
miraculous mid-spring snowfall covered her nude body to ease
her shame.
3. EL BORN
Similar to the Gothic Quarter, and only one street over, El Born
was given a popular boost by the Ildefonso Falcones book Cathedral of the Sea, a historical novel about medieval Barcelona
that spent a year atop Spains best seller list in 2008. Formerly
the hip spot to take in jousting matches, it is now graced with
a ton of cafes, brimming in the evenings. There is also a festive night scene, where you can spend an evening jousting
with the mojitos. The nearby Barcelona Zoo makes for a perfect
spot to walk off that hangover the next morning. Personal
pick: Keep your eyes peeled for the many shops inhabited
by violin makers, glassmakers and other craftspeople. Incredible sights abound.
Barcelona is served by several airlines. Haps recommends KLM at
www.klm.com.
Michael Fraiman is a freelance writer

and former Haps editor. Read more of
his travel stories at www.alongwayback.com, and check for his upcoming
book, A Long Way Back: Stories of Travelling Home.
H
Travel
DOMESTIC
Busans Beaches
Beach season, that season that exceeds all other seasons in Busan, is back.
HAEUNDAE BEACH
Over the past several months, ships have been busy just offshore dredging sand and
pumping it up onto the beach to double the width of Koreas famed strip of coastline.
While the summer bookend months of June and September are the best times to enjoy the beach with moderate crowds, July and August is when Haeundae explodes
with upwards of 700,000 people swimming, lounging or shuffling along the boardwalk in the summer heat. Nearby there are plenty of great restaurants and good backstreets leading off in all sorts of interesting directions.
To get there, take subway line 2 to Haeundae Station. Its about a five-minute walk.
SONG-DO BEACH
Officially Koreas first beach (as of 1913),
Song-do has re-emerged as a must-stop
on local tours. Song-do, which translates into Pine Island, was given its name
due to the lush pine trees adorning the
outskirts of the beach. Located just three
kilometers from Nampo-dong, Song-do
offers a romantic backdrop for couples
looking for some peace and quiet, away
from the hustle and bustle of the city.
To get there, take bus 34 or 134 from Busan
Station southward.
ILGWANG BEACH
Located in Gijang County, Ilgwang Beach is a little out of the way, but is
better for a guaranteed quiet day at the beach than any others. As the water
levels are not too deep, novice swimmers and children are more prone to enjoy
swimming here as opposed to other beaches in the city. There are also plenty of
accommodations, restaurants and camping facilities available nearby, should you
choose to spend the night.
To get there, take subway line 2 to Jangsan Station. At exit 9, take bus 180, and get off at
Ilgwang Beach.
IMRANG BEACH
The 1.5km-long Imrang Beach is also located in Gijang County, and is famous for its
fresh water and fishing. With the water level only four feet deep, many families with
young children find the beach ideal for swimming, while the neighborhood has a distinct character of its own. Tongdosa Temple and Jangansa Temple are located nearby
for those looking to get out of the beach scene for the afternoon. Though relatively
quiet, more tourists have been frequenting the area lately due to its golden sand.
To get there, take bus 37, 180 or 188 from Jangsan Station.
32 HAPS_summer 2014
SONGJEONG BEACH
It may be just on the other side of Dalmaji Hill, but Songjeong
feels much further away. The skyscrapers of Busan proper are
blocked from view, and the crowds are much smaller. It also has
the only reliable breaks, attracting surfers who chase waves and
girls who chase surfers. At the end of the day, Songjeong is one
of the only nearby beaches that allows camping, but with no restrictions on fireworks or soju, dont expect a quiet nights rest.
To get there, take subway line 2 and get off at Haeundae Station
(exit 7), and take bus 100, 100-1, 139 or 142. Get off at Songjeong
Station and walk 600 meters.
GWANGALLI BEACH
If Haeundae feels a bit like South Beach, Miami, then Gwangalli is Coney Island: laid back, more room to stretch out and
a semi-abandoned, rusting amusement park. At the end of the
Suyeong River trail, the beach makes a great destination for a
morning bike ride or jog. The absence of towering hotels means
there are more dining and drinking options with ocean views.
If youre feeling brave, you can grab a kayak at the southwest
end of the beach and dodge the wind surfers and jet skis on the
open water. After sunset, the Diamond Bridge, an iconic suspension bridge that spans the horizon, comes to life with an elaborate LED light show.
To get there, take subway line 2 to Gwangan or Geumnyeonsan
Station. Its about a five-minute walk.
DADAEPO BEACH
Located at the estuary of the Nakdonggang River and just eight
kilometers from downtown, Dadaepo Beach is a great place to
chill out and have a picnic, collect a few seashells and go for a
swim in the shallow surf. Just up the river is one of the best places in Korea to check out migratory birds chilling in the marshes.
At just under a kilometer long, it is beautiful but little-known
to foreigners because of how far away it is from the city center.
To get there, take bus number 2 or 98 from Busan Station or get off
the subway at Sinpyeong Station and take bus 2, 11, 96 or 98.
HSports
TALK
The Master
By Marius
Stankiewicz
Former World International Taekwondo Federation Champion Rafal

Olenski is one badass dude. The three-time Polish taekwondo champ opens
up about living his martial arts dream in Busan.
Though his good looks and stylish dress may fool you, 28-year-old
Rafal Olenski, three-time Polish and one-time world taekwondo
champion, is a force to be reckoned with. Hes got determination, a
fierce fighting stance and if you ask him nicely, hell even do some
acrobatic spin kicks off a buildings wall reminiscent of old Kung
Fu movies. Over a beer - which he occasionally endorses when not
dominating his opponents in the ring as much as the dojang - we
had the chance to sit down with him to discuss his competitive career, his humble beginnings and, of course, his love for Busan.
HOW DID YOU START IN TAEKWONDO?
Ive always dreamt of wanting to be a martial artist, to train with
great fighters in Asia under well-known masters. Watching Bruce
Lee in Enter the Dragon and Van Damme in Bloodsport inspired
me, and so after complaining to my dad that I wanted to train
martial arts, he took me down the street from our house and
signed me up for taekwondo. It was a random decision, actually,
but I immediately took to the sport and started training intensively. Little by little, I began reaching the goals I set for myself.
First, it was me becoming the youngest ITF black belt in Poland
and then it was winning the Polish championships three times.
34 HAPS_summer 2014
WHAT WERE YOUR FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF KOREA?

To be honest, Korea reminded me a bit of the US. Before coming
here, I spent some time in Chicago, so when I arrived in Busan
and saw the concrete sidewalks, the flashing neon lights and all
the familiar company logos and American brands, I thought I was
back in the US. Now, after all these years in Busan, what I see being connected to the US is only the American brands and nothing more.
WHAT ARE YOUR FEELINGS ABOUT BUSAN?
In the beginning, I thought that I would not find myself in this
city. I was even contemplating returning to Poland. But after settling down, meeting great people, and gaining more career opportunities, I realized that it would be quite a nice place to live in.
I love the nature here, the mountains and beaches. I often go jogging in Haeundae and Gwangalli Beach, my favorite places. The
transportation here is efficient, and the service in shops is always
exceptional. I love Korean food, especially Korean restaurants.
Above all, Ive always dreamt of seeing Asia, and from Korea it is
quite easy to fly to other countries, especially from Busan.
WHAT ARE YOUR FUTURE PLANS?

At the moment Im recovering from an injury. In a spar a few
months back I tore my meniscus, so Im just taking it slow after
my knee surgery; it was my third knee surgery of the same injury,
so I really need to take it easy. Im jogging a bit now but no hardcore training or fighting. When I get back into it, I hope to achieve
the same success in kickboxing as I did in taekwondo. Ive always
said to myself that I want to fight until the age of 35, but who
knows if Ill be able to hold up. Right now, Im also studying in
Busan, so Im hoping my studies could open a few doors in terms
of career options. Im also trying to look at a few business opportunities involving export/import between Poland and Korea.
ANY ADVICE FOR ALL THE YOUTH OUT THERE TRAINING IN
SPORTS OR MARTIAL ARTS?
The more sweat during training means less blood during bouts.
Also, taekwondo, Muay Thai and kickboxing are all about mind,
body and soul - not just fighting and combat. Be ambitious,
stay disciplined and dont make excuses for yourself to miss
training. Try to follow your dreams despite the many difficulties
youre bound to encounter while reaching them. Also, dont be
a fanatic about your sport or martial art. Dont be obsessed with
chasing your belt color or trophies, and keep your head cool at
all times. What you do in the dojang stays in the dojang, meaning dont mix work with your private life. Id like to thank all my
friends here in Busan for all their warm hospitality over the years
and my lovely girlfriend, Nam-kyung.
Marius Stankiewicz is a freelance journalist and an
instructor at Busan University of Foreign Studies.
You can find his photography and publications at
www.mariuszstankiewicz.com
LOTTE GIANTS
SCHEDULE
JUNE 10, 11, 12 - LG
JUNE 13, 14, 15 - KIA
JUNE 27, 28, 29 - NC
JULY 4, 5, 6 - SK
JULY 15, 16 - NEXEN
JULY 22, 23, 24 - SAMSUNG
JULY 29, 30, 31 - DOOSAN
BUSAN IPARK
SCHEDULE
JULY 5 - JEONBUK 7:30 P.M.
JULY 13 - INCHEON 7:30 P.M.
JULY 23 - SUWON 7:30 P.M.
JULY 26 - JEJU 7:30 P.M.
Community Corner
Medical Tourism Centers

Spring Up Around Korea
If youre looking for some advice on how to make the most of Koreas
extensive medical tourism offerings, here is a list of Koreas four information
centers located in Seoul, Busan, Daegu and Incheon.
SEOUL MEDICAL TOURIST INFORMATION CENTER

Location: 10, Da-dong, Jung-gu, Seoul
Languages: English, Japanese, Chinese and Russian
Telephone: +82-2-752-2102~3, 1330
E-mail: medicaltourism@knto.or.kr
Services: Trial use/introduction of simple medical instruments,
visitor assistance, guidebooks, information.
Korean Traditional Medicine: Acupuncture, moxibustion, cupping treatment (from Wednesday through Friday,
10:00~17:00)
Operation Hours: 09:00~18:00 (Hotline 1330 is 24/7)
INCHEON MEDICAL TOURIST INFORMATION CENTER

Location: 1F Arrivals Gate 5 at Incheon International Airport
Languages: English, Japanese, Chinese and Russian at
the concierge.
Telephone: +82-32-743-2172, 1330
Services: Visitor assistance, information, guide brochures,
healthcare network support
BUSAN MEDICAL TOURIST INFORMATION CENTER

Location: Bujeon 1 Dong 486-27, Jin-gu, Busan
Languages: English, Japanese, Chinese
Telephone: +82-51-818-1320, 1330
DAEGU MEDICAL TOURIST INFORMATION CENTER

Location: 6F Daegu City Center, 11-1 Munhwa-dong, Jung-gu
Languages: English, Japanese, Chinese
Telephone: +82-70-7006-1161~4, 1330
E-mail: meditour545@gmail.com
36 HAPS_summer 2014
Spreading the Word
Spin, DJ, Spin

Busan eFM is accepting entrants for the 2nd annual BeFM Expat DJ Contest. The contest, which is co-sponsored by Etihad
Airways and Haps, will end with a final battle on the beach during the Busan Sea Festival in early August. After the winner is
decided, several of Koreas top DJs (also acting as judges) will
continue spinning on the sand into the evening. Upload your
audition video from June 23 until July 7. The contest king wins a
million won and a roundtrip ticket to Abu Dhabi. For more info,
visit www.befm.or.kr or give them a call at 051-663-0034.
Haeundaes New Seaside Attraction

The Bay 101, an architecturally hip new spot
on Dongbaek Island just across from the Westin Chosun Hotel, opened its doors in May. The
spacious two-story building has an LED illuminated wall in front while the back opens up to
a sizable patio seating area with great views of
the Marine City skyline.
The 3,567-square-meter, 35-billion-won complex houses a cafe and several food offerings,
including outstanding fish n chips on the first

floor. Up on the second floor is Daedo, Seouls
famed barbeque restaurant with enough room
to seat up to 500 diners.
A very cool feature of the new facility is that
you can book watercraft. The selection ranges
from three 128-passenger yachts to three jet
boats, with a planned 30 jet skis by July.
2014 summer_ busanhaps.com 37
Business Spotlight
CALIFORNIA REPUBLIC
By Anthony Velasquez
What started out as one location just off the beach in Haeundae has grown into
three of the most popular spots for food and drink in Busan.
Whether at the original Sharkys at Haeundae Beach, the

Gwangalli Beach location or the most recent addition of Sharkys
III on the Haeundae Strip, Sharkys is the only place in Busan that
is quintessentially Californian. Its friendly vibe is reminiscent of
laid-back SoCal beach bars where you find a strange brew of
patrons, some spiritedly blowing off steam, some relaxing with
a kind ale or cocktail over board games by the beach. While the
assorted assembly there may change (which keeps the craic interesting), what is consistent for sure about Sharkys is it serves
the best pub grub in Busan.
Sharkys distinction is the way it epitomizes California cuisine
by using as much local produce as possible and procuring only
the best ingredients, such as Australian beef and lamb, American bacon and all imported cheese. Also, by putting that little
extra time and care into not only its taste but also its presentation, they consistently deliver the finest culinary creations. For
example, all the sauces and dressings are housemade, chicken
breasts are marinated for at least 24 hours for a great caesar
salad, hoagie rolls are baked to order, hand-rolled taquitos use
only chicken leg and thigh meat for a more flavorful filling, and
their original, freshly made meatballs of ground pork and beef,
original herb mix and touch of cream cheese make them expertly seasoned and textured. Regarding that latter point, the
meatball hoagie is the best sandwich Ive had in Busan.
Furthermore, Sharkys menu is replete with plenty of classics
that authentically represent their provenance yet are never
staid. The border specialties offer some serious Mexican food
38 HAPS_summer 2014
like the San Diego taquito plate, the wet burrito and the California burrito. In addition, for a more inventive, modern twist,
theres the tuna avocado burger, the Cajun salmon filet and the
cilantro lamb chops and sausage entree. And this spring, theyre
rolling out a classic Western brunch, done, of course, with
smartly chosen ingredients, housemade and cooked to order.
Even as Sharkys brand and reputation has grown, it still adheres to its core principles of providing a chill ambience and
amicable and competent service in great locations, all serving
top-shelf food and drink. Salud!
Sharkys is an advertiser with Haps Magazine.
Sponsored Stories
CJ HELLOVISION TEAMS UP WITH

GOOGLE FOR CHROMECAST IN KOREA
Thanks to a partnership between Google and CJ Hellovision
streaming media service TVing, you can now stream tens of
thousands of videos, movies and TV shows through Chromecast.
This past May, CJ Hellovision, Koreas largest cable compa- users to open a Chrome browser tab remotely and view it on
ny, along with their streaming service TVing, launched a part- the big screen.
Chromecast is a streaming device that plugs into your televinership with Google to make Korea the first country in Asia to
sion via an HDMI port. There is no need to have a smart TV, just
offer Chromecast and its multi-device streaming technology.
The 49,900-won device, which is available from places such as an HDMI port and youre good to go. Once inserted, ChromeHi-Mart and GMarket, makes good use of Koreas high-speed In- cast offers a wireless gateway to video, music, photos and apps
that turn your television into
ternet connection, allowing
an Internet hub for popular
TVing users, which already
KOREANS ARE SOME OF THE MOST SAVVY
apps like TVing.
count over 6.5 million in KoSimply browse the content
rea, to now enjoy a wider se- CONSUMERS OF CONTENT OVER THE INTERNET IN
lection of offerings.
THE WORLD AND THE SMARTPHONE IS ALREADY youre interested in on your
mobile devicesuch as a
This is a great chance for
A MUCH LARGER PART OF THEIR MEDIA
smartphone or a tabletthen
TVing to be on more screens,
tell it to play on your TV. Chroallowing for the company to
CONSUMPTION THAN ELSEWHERE.
mecast automatically switchexpand, according to senior
project manager Kim Jong-won. As TVing is the best OTT ser- es your TV to the correct input while allowing you to adjust
vice company in Korea, we will lead this industry by developing the volume by simply using your mobile devices built-in volume controls. Once playing on your TV, you can multi-task with
the latest technology.
Compatible with all major operating systems and mobile de- your phone as you normally would. Since it works as a mirroring
vices, the 2.83-inch Chromecast dongle that plugs into your device, Chromecast streaming from your mobile device to the
TV is already highly popular in the American market where the TV has almost no effect on battery usage.
simple configuration allows apps like Netflix, YouTube and Plex Once installed, the service allows viewers to enjoy HD-qualito stream video from any mobile device to the TV. It also allows ty streaming at 1280x720, and new technology developed by
CJ Hellovision makes flipping through the wide
range of channels much faster.
Mickey Kim, Head of Chromecast & TV Partnerships, Google Asia Pacific, sees this partnership as
a perfect fit for Korea and its cord-cutting trend.
Koreans are some of the most savvy consumers
of content over the Internet in the world and the
smartphone is already a much larger part of their
media consumption than elsewhere, said Kim.
Over 60% of YouTube views in Korea come from
mobile devices, compared to the 40% average for
the world. All these mobile content lovers will now
be able to bridge the gap between their smartphone and the biggest screen in the house.
You can visit CJ Hellovision on the web at
www.cjhello.com
CJ Hellovision is an advertising partner
with Haps Magazine.
Dining & Food
SHINAE:
AN INTERNATIONAL FOOD
CROSSROADS IN KOREA
By
John Dunphy Photos by Jamie Alexander
Those looking for a more international dining atmosphere during their time in Korea need look no further
than Shinae in nearby Gimhae. There youll find a great mix of cultures and food served up from people from
around the world living and working there.
Stepping inside the timeworn, sparsely furnished Burmese restaurant down a
small, nondescript alley, worry could very
easily creep in. Will I like what I order? Will
I be able to order anything?
Thankfully, the kind woman, following
her initial surprise of seeing a couple of
Americans enter the restaurant, knows
enough English to help out. What would
you like? Prawn, pork or beef? Soon,
she lays out two plates of simple fare,
bowls of comforting, fishy broth and a
bottle of Hite.
Hite? As it turns out, we are not in Myanmar, we are in an area called Shinae, an
international crossroads of food and culture just outside of Busan, in Gimhae.
Located in Seosang-dong - about a
35-minute light rail trip from Sasang the restaurants in Shinae (which means
downtown in Korean) serve up an almost overwhelming variety of ethnic dining options from over a dozen different
countries. Walking the streets there, you
will come across cuisine from Cambodia, Morocco, India and Indonesia, to
name a few.
In wide-open avenues, down narrow
alleys, Korea and other Asian nations
mingle cheek by jowl in this vibrant
area of open-air markets, phone shops,
clothing stores, karaoke rooms, and a
ton of restaurants.
Experiences can vary as widely as there
are represented nations. One moment,
you might pass a pair of men speaking Russian. The next, Thai. Walking up
the narrow stairs to Saigon Binh Dan, a
speaker pipes sound from the restaurant. This could be the music of Vietnam
or a YouTube video of a poorly dubbed
40 HAPS_summer 2014
western action film. Flip through the

menu, and, if you have learned enough
Korean, order a 7,000-won bowl of spicy
bun riev hai san (Vietnams version of Koreas seafood noodle soup).
Other restaurants are considerably less
threatening to the considerably less adventurous. At the recently opened Durga, co-owner Madhu Mahal noted in perfect English (menus also are in English)
how not only is there a demand for Indian
and Nepalese foods and goods (which
can be purchased adjacent to the dining
area) from natives of that region now living in Korea, but also Koreans are finally
discovering these delights. Mahal said
his business is happy to help, and Shinae
was the obvious choice for its expansion.
After dinner you can explore the Asian
marts or the outdoor markets, where

one can purchase anything from blankets and bags of kimchi to fresh fish and
bushels of cilantro. Most communication
can be conducted in Korean, even if the
seller isnt Korean themselves.
Getting there: By bus: several Busan
buses go to Gimhae, including the 1004
and 123, which run from Busan Station
and Nampo-dong to Shinae. By subway:
Green line to Sasang (227), to BusanGimhae Light Rail, to stop #17 (Royal
Tomb of King Suro). Brown line to Daejeo (317), transfer to light rail, to stop
#17. Exit the station on the left. Continue
straight for half a mile.
For more from John Dunphy, visit

jpdunphy.blogspot.com.
Home Cooking
THREE OF THE BEST:
BINGSU
By Christy Swain
Are you a big fan of icy desserts in summer but maybe

not too keen on the red bean paste? Never fear - this
summer there are plenty of refreshing alternatives to
satisfy your sweet tooth!
Cafe Bing Bing Bing
Using organic and simple, fresh ingredients, these bingsus

are lower in sugar and calories. They have seasonal bingsu
(differing between stores), depending on whats fresh and
healthy: well-being bingsu. Order your red bean on the side
if youre missing it.
THE BEST: Lemon bingsu (June - July) - lemonade meets bingsu! 7,700 won
RUNNERS UP: Milk bingsu - available all year. Tangerine bingsu
- available only in the fall. All 7,700 won
Three locations: Nampo dong, Haeundae Marine City and Jeonpo
Caf Street in Seomyeon. Look for the cute penguin logo.
- SOL BING DESSERT CAFES
Popping up all over Busan, this franchise uses traditional

and seasonal ingredients, and their ice is made with milk
and finely shaved to resemble snowflakes. All bingsu comes
with extra condensed milk on the side. Red bean is available
on the side, too.
THE BEST: Strawberry ( = ddalgi) bingsu, with sliced strawberries and strawberry sauce, 9,500 won
RUNNERS UP: Cheese bingsu, with chunks of New York cheesecake and cheesecake ice cream, 8,000 won. Mango cheese bingsu, with chunks of mango and cheesecake and mango syrup
(coming soon for summer)
Multiple locations around Busan (Seomyeon, Nampo, PNU,
Hwamyeong, Millak and more). Look for the distinctive hanja
emblazoned pottery bowl logo.
A Twosome Place
As far as the big franchise coffee shops go, A Twosome Place

has the best range and combinations, and their sandwiches and
cakes are some of the best in town, too.
THE BEST: Tiramisu bingsu, with coffee and slices of tiramisu
cake, 10,500 won.
RUNNERS UP: Yogurt berry bingsu, with frozen yogurt and
mixed berries, 9,800 won. Green grape mojito, with green
grapes, lime and mint (non-alcoholic boo!), 9,800 won
Multiple locations around Busan
People
AN INTERVIEW WITH
DAVID A. MASON
By Hal Swindall
As co-author of An Encyclopedia of Korean Buddhism, Professor David Mason knows just about all
there is to know about Buddhism here on the peninsula. Hal Swindall recently sat down for a talk
with the Michigan native about his master work and the world of Korean Buddhism.
American David A.
Mason has lived in
Korea for over 30
years. Much of that
time has been dedicated to the study of
Korean Buddhism and
the exploration of the
countrys sacred sites.
Mason first became interested in Buddhism while in high school as both an alternative
and a supplement to the Protestant worldview of his upbringing. He had always liked hiking amid the mountain scenery and
found it to be the perfect combination of spiritual and physical
exertion when he came to Korea as an English teacher.
Over the decades, Mason has watched Korean Buddhism
globalize, a development he intends to aid with his encyclopedia, An Encyclopedia of Korean Buddhism, which was published
last year by Seoul publisher Unjusa.
Mason now works as a professor of Korean Cultural Tourism at
Namseoul University in Cheonan.
Your encyclopedia is over 600 pages long and contains thousands of definitions of Buddhist concepts, as well as biographies of major monks and histories of major temples. What
were your sources for all this information?
A lot of the information came from previous compilations of
such material in Korean by the scholars of Dongguk University and the Jogye Order, which some had been translated into
rough English. There was also a collection of academic essays
on specific topics in English by scholars previously working for
Dongguk on other projects. I had already written and edited a
collection of 30 essays on Koreas top Buddhist treasures that
was published in the Korea Times and published as a book distributed at the 2010 G20 summit in Seoul. All this material that I
had to start with, perhaps 1,000 pages in crude form, had to be
completely rewritten and heavily edited to make it consistent in
style and sufficiently brief for the encyclopedia format.
42 HAPS_summer 2014
What was the most difficult part about compiling the encyclopedia? What part did you enjoy the most?
Just the very long hours of going over minute details of so
many entries, struggling to present the best quality and most
extensive knowledge in a very concise manner - sometimes that
got really tedious and seemed a lonely effort. Maybe the best
aspects were that I learned so much more than I already knew
by doing this, and I got to refresh all my great experiences of
visiting all the major temples over the past three decades, going
over the photos and reliving the memories. Experiencing the
grand monasteries and finding the remote hermitages up on
the slopes of Koreas most beautiful and sacred mountains has
always been my favorite activity while living here, and so going over the extensive related materials again and considering
what perspectives to use in presenting them to the world was
very fulfilling.
What do you think is the most important Buddhist concept
for foreigners to understand?
Perhaps enlightenment itself - how it is not mystical or otherworldly, as some people might think, but a very real-world
perspective of insight and wisdom, quite pragmatic and accurate. Also that in general, Buddhism is less of a superstitious
religion than people think and doesnt really take the worship
of deities and the notions of heavens, hells, reincarnations and
transcendent gods or spirits very seriously. Foreigners often
dont understand that the very serious focus on concentrated
meditation practice and attainment of wisdom by philosophical study is the main focus of the serious Buddhist practitioners,
especially in this nation where meditative Buddhism (Chan or
Zen, which we call Seon) has been the predominant stream for
1,000 years, and that the more religious aspects are only subsidiary.
For more, visit Professor Masons website:
www.san-shin.org.
Photo by Kim Myung-sub, courtesy of David Mason.
Art & Culture
Hotel Directory & News
HOTEL EVENTS AND NEWS

Whether you are looking for a comfortable place to lay your head, somewhere to enjoy a good
meal or throw back a few cocktails, heres whats happening at some of our favorite local hotels.
Paradise Hotel
1408-5 Jung-dong, Haeundae-gu, Busan

ph. 051-742-2121
web. www.paradisehotel.co.kr
Try a delectable grilled steak and other scrumptious creations at the newly
opened premium restaurant Nyx while
dining with stunning views of the beach.
Novotel Hotel
1405-16 Jung-dong, Haeundaegu, Busan

ph. 051-746-8481
web. www.novotel.ambatel.com
Indulge yourself with a taste

of Italy at the lobby-level Terrace Cafe restaurant, which
serves up mouthwatering pasta dishes from various regions
around the peninsula.
Kunoh Seacloud Hotel
287 Haeundaehaebyun-ro, Haeundae-gu, Busan

ph. 051-933-4300
web. www.seacloudhotel.kr
Enjoy your complimentary breakfast buffet at VIPS restaurant while staying in one of the 177 luxuriously furnished
guest rooms on Haeundae Beach.
Park Hyatt Busan
51, Marine City 1-ro, Haeundae-gu, Busan

ph. 051-990-1234
web. busan.park.hyatt.com
Carefully catered for afternoon tea enthusiasts, enjoy the Afternoon Tea Set daily from 2 p.m. to 6 p.m. with homemade
scones or pastries made by veteran chefs at the 30th-floor
Lounge restaurant.
44 HAPS_summer 2014
Hotel Nongshim
23, Geumganggongwon-ro 20beon-gil, Dongnae-gu, Busan

ph. 051-550-2100
web. www.hotelnongshim.com
Four amazing premium barbecue dishes, including ribs and

roast chicken, are on offer at the hotels first-floor German traditional brewery, Hurshimchung Brau, through the end of June.
Accomodation Guide
HOTEL DIRECTORY
Looking for a place to stay when visiting Busan? Find it with the Haps hotel directory, your local
English guide to accomodation in the city.
HAEUNDAE
THE WESTIN CHOSUN
tel: 82-51-749-7000
web: www.echosunhotel.com
Do it right and crash in the same room
George W. Bush did.
PARADISE HOTEL
tel: 82-51-742 2121
web: www.paradisehotel.co.kr
On the water, with a casino, excellent
spa and a pool.
SEACLOUD HOTEL
tel: 82-51-933-1000
web: www.seacloudhotel.com
Luxury stay with great restaurants.
Short walk to the beach.
CENTUM HOTEL
tel: 82-51-720-9000
web: www.centumhotel.co.kr
Near Shinsegae and BEXCO. Good
subway access.
SUNSET HOTEL
tel: 82-51-730-9900
web: www.sunsethotel.co.kr
Seventy-two rooms with, according to
the site, individual design concepts.
NOVOTEL AMBASSADOR
tel: 82-51-743-1234
web: novotel.ambatel.com
On the beach. Great ocean view, Murpii
Nightclub.
GRAND HOTEL
tel: 82-51-740-0610
web: www.grandhotel.co.kr
One of the cheaper spots on the strip,
but still at the beach.
KUNOH SEACLOUD HOTEL
tel: 82-51-933-4300
web: www.seacloudhotel.kr
Luxury stay with great restaurants.
Short walk to the beach.
HANWHA RESORT
tel: 82-1588-2299
web: www.hanwharesort.co.kr
Beautiful views of Oryukdo, the bridge
and close to the beach.
PARK HYATT BUSAN
tel: 82-51-990-1234
web: busan.park.hyatt.com
Five star quality hotel with stunning
views and service.
SEOMYEON
LOTTE HOTEL
tel: 82-51-810-1000
web: www.lottehotelbusan.com
Lotte runs a tight ship and it shows in
the generous customer service here.
TOYOKO INN
tel: 82-51-442-1045
web: www.toyoko-inn.com
Across from D City, comfortable, clean
and affordable.
CROWN HOTEL
tel: 82-51-635-1241
web: www.fnetravel.com/english/pusanhotels/crown.html
Mid-range hotel decorated in Korean
style, good for travellers.
GWANGALLI
HOMERS HOTEL
tel: 82-51-750-8000
web: www.homershotel.com
Right on Gwangalli Beach amidst the
myriad of cafes, bars and restaurants.
AQUA PALACE
tel: 82-51-756-0202
web: www.aquapalace.co.kr
Beautiful view of the Diamond Bridge,
right in the middle of the beach.
JUNG-GU
COMMODORE HOTEL
tel: 82-51-461-9703
web: www.commodore.co.kr
Beautifully designed traditional hotel.
Close proximity to Busan Station.
BUSAN TOURIST HOTEL
tel: 82-51-241-4301
web: www.pusanhotel.co.kr
Conveniently located next to the train
station. Good for a cheap nights rest.
TOYOKO INN
tel: 82-51-442-1045
Affordably priced hotel, clean and 10
minutes away from the train station.
PHOENIX HOTEL
tel: 82-51-245-8061
web: www.hotelphoenix.net
Highly trained staff, close to Nampodong. Popular with Japanese tourists.
ELYSEE HOTEL
tel: 82-51-241-4008
web: www.elyseemotel.com
Affordable hotel with good amenities.
Close to Nampo-dong.
BUSAN STATION
GUKJE HOTEL
tel: 82-51-642-1330
web: www.hotelkukje.com
About 3 km away from the train station,
close to Citizens Hall.
TOYOKO INN
tel: 82-51-442-1045
The second location, this one is a minute

away from the train station.
OTHER AREAS
PARAGON HOTEL [Sasang-gu]
tel: 82-51-328-2001
web: www.hotelparagon.com
Business comfort, with close proximity
to Gimhae International Airport.
HI KOREA HOSTEL
tel: 070-4409-3132
web: www.hikoreahostel.com
email: hikoreahostel@gmail.com
Your home away from home, Hi Korea
Hostel offers you an affordable and comfortable accommodation just a stones
throw away from Haeundae Beach.
BUSAN CENTRAL HOTEL [Yeonsan-dong]

tel: 82-51- 866-6225
web: www.centralhotel.co.kr
Adjacent to Yeonsan rotary, located 10
minutes away from City Hall.
HOTEL NONGSHIM [Oncheonjeong]
tel: 82-51-550-2100
web: www.hotelnongshim.com
Great area around the hotel. Head north
to PNU for original Busan nightlife.
BUDGET
BUSAN YOUTH
HOSTEL ARPINA [Haeundae]
tel: 82-51-731-9800
web: www.arpina.co.kr
Opened in 2004, a cheap place to stay for
the night. Culture center inside.
GOODSTAY THE PLANET
GUESTHOUSE [Haeundae]
tel: 010-2780-6350
web: www.earthlinghome.com
Women-only dormitory across from Haeundae Beach in the Crystal Beach Office Tel.
INDY HOUSE [Kyungsung Uni]
tel: 82-70-8615-6442
Super cheap, dorm-style room right in
the heart of Kyungsung.
MARUB GUEST HOUSE [Haeundae]
tel: 010-6322-3194
web: www.marubee.com
Well-placed near restaurants, commercial area in Haeundae.
POBI GUEST HOUSE [Haeundae]
tel: 051-746-7990
web: www.guesthousekoreabusan.com
Renovated guest houses three minutes
from Haeundae Beach.
SUM GUEST HOUSE
tel: 070-8837-0700
web: www.sumhostel.com
Renovated in 2011, they guarantee
guests a pleasant stay whether in Busan
for business or pleasure.
HELLO GUEST HOUSE [Haeundae]
tel: 051-746-8590
web: www.facebook.com/helloguesthousehello
Friendly, clean and cozy atmosphere.
Outdoor patio for your enjoyment.
Nightlife & Dining Directory
GWANGALLI
BEACHED CAFE AND SPORTS BAR
[Kiwi Sports Bar]
open: 6pm - late
tel: 051-924-9662
web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/
beached-cafe-sports-bar
This Kiwi-run sports bar has gained a
loyal expat following for its spectacular
bridge view and its wide array of Kiwi
beer, the only place in the city to boast
such a claim. Rugby is the sport of choice
on the TV for the punters.
BELLA CITTA [Italian]
tel: 051-711-0010
web: www.busanhaps.com/food/bellacitta-italian
Italian restaurant with an incredible
interior, top notch menu and indoor
garden seating.
BURGER AND PASTA [International]
open: 11am - 2am
tel: 051-751-6631
web: www.busanhaps.com/food/burgerand-pasta-gwangan
The second of the Burger and Pasta
shops around the city, this international eatery offers a great view of
the bridge while you enjoy your
day on the sand. Burgers,
pasta and brunch are on the menu
in the stylishly decorated restaurant
in the middle of the main drag of
Gwangalli Beach.
FOUR SEASONS [Raw Fish Korean]
English speaking owner, 2nd fl. Fish
Market.
FUZZY NAVEL- MILLAK [Food/Bar]
open: 11am - 6am
tel: 051-754-6349
web: www.fncompany.co.kr
It has fabulous views of Gwangalli
Beach. Facing the Diamond Bridge,
come enjoy a drink and some tacos
on our patio. Great staff serve fresh
made Mexican cuisine and will mix up
your favorite cocktail.
FUZZY NAVEL- GWANGALLI [Bar]
open: 7pm - 6am
Located on the ground floor, offering a great view of the beach and
bridge. Friendly staff serve excellent
cocktails at the vintage-looking bar.
Make sure you take advantage of the
outside seating in the summertime.
GALMEGI BREWING CO.
[Craft Brew Pub]
open: Mon - Fri 6-1am, Sat 2pm-2am, Sun
2pm-12am
tel: 010-4469-9658
web: www.busanhaps.com/galmegibrewing
Galmegi Brewing Co. is Busans first craft
brew pub right on Gwangan Beach.
46 HAPS_summer 2014
THURSDAY PARTY [Korean/Expat Bar]

open: 6pm - late
thursday-party
A summer staple on Gwangalli Beach
for the past couple of summers,
Thursday Party has two locations
situated next to each other on the
east side of the beach. Both bars
are similar to the Thursday Party
city-wide theme, and offer a variety
of American style pub grub to tempt
your palate.
WA BAR [Beer Bar]
Wide selection of beer laid out for your
choosing.
HAEUNDAE
HQ BAR [American/Sports Bar]

open: 4pm on weekdays, 10:30am on
weekends
tel: 010-6561-8565
web: www.facebook.com/hq.bar.5
HQs new Gwangan location has the
same massive selection of craft beers
and cocktails, including our homemade infused liquors, but now sports
one of the best views on the beach; a
new and improved menu, including
brunch items; and a projection screen
for World Cup matches.
SHARKYS [American Sports Bar]
open: 6 p.m. weekdays, 2 p.m. weekends
tel: 010-4038-2907 (call for reservations)
web: www.sharkysbusan.com
Ranked highly on tripadvisor.com and
as having the best burger in Busan
by Haps, Sharkys is a smoke-free
environment where families or
singles can enjoy a great drink and a
fine meal. With premium-cut steaks,
burgers, fresh gourmet salads and
vegetarian options, Sharkys has
something for everyone.
TAP AND TAPAS [Spanish]
open: 3pm-5am
tel: 051-746-6318
web: www.tapntapas.com
Recently opened on the beach, Tap
and Tapas serves up mouthwatering
Spanish cuisine in a beautiful setting
looking out to the Gwangalli Bridge.
With an extensive menu and cocktail
list, its a great meeting space for
singles and couples out looking to
impress.
AN GA [Korean]
tel: 051-742-7852
Very popular bbq meat restaurant in
Haeundae.
BILLIE JEAN [Lounge/Live Music]
tel: 051-742-0297
billiejean
A Haps favorite. Great decor.
open: 11am - 2am
web: www.busanhaps.com/food/burgerand-pasta-haeundae
Recently opened, this Western/
Korean fusion style restaurant has
been packing them in since day one.
Burgers, pasta and brunch are on the
menu in the stylishly decorated restaurant, where you can also imbibe
yourself to a glass of wine, a cocktail
or beer after your day on the beach.
CHEOLMA HANWOO BULGOGI
[Korean]
tel: 051-709-4000
Bulgogi done at its best.
CINE DE CHEF [Italian]
tel: 051-745-2880
In Shinsegae, enjoy a good meal and
a movie.
EL OLIVE [Italian]
tel: 051-752-7300
Delicious Italian, close to Costco.
FUZZY NAVEL [Food/Bar]
open: 11am - 6am
tel: 051-746-6439
Great location set on two floors near
the beach, other bars, and clubs.
Amazing Mexican food is served from
lunchtime until the early hours of the
morning. Friendly staff and outside
seating makes Fuzzy Navel a place to
hit when the weather is good.
GANGA [Indian]
Expect to pay some good money, but
its worth it.
GECKOS [Pub]
Beach front bar. Consistently good food.
GEN SUSHI [Japanese]

tel: 051-740-6630
Affordable sushi. Good stuff.
HELLO THAI [Thai]
tel: 051-731-5033
Good Thai food in the heart of
Haeundae.
MERCADO [Brazilian Steakhouse]
open: 11:30 a.m. - 24:00
tel: 051-744-8807
web: www.mercado.co.kr
An authentic southern Brazilian
Churrascaria, Mercado is the perfect
dining experience for family and
friends. With eight choices of prime
meat seasoned with Brazilian spices
charcoaled and grilled to perfection,
salads and Brazilian rice, this unique
dining experience is like no other in
the city.
247 [Pub Lounge]
open: 6 a.m.- 6 p.m.
tel: 1544-8247
web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/247
An all-in-one establishment where
dancing, drinking and fun are the name
of the game.
NAMASTE [Indian]
tel: 051-746-1946
Indian fine dining. Good prices and
great food.
SHARKYS [American Sports Bar]
open: 6 p.m. weekdays, 2 p.m. weekends
tel: 010-4038-2907 (call for reservations)
web: www.sharkysbusan.com
Ranked highly on tripadvisor.com and
as having the best burger in Busan
by Haps, Sharkys is a smoke-free
environment where families or
singles can enjoy a great drink and a
fine meal. With premium-cut steaks,
burgers, fresh gourmet salads and
vegetarian options, Sharkys has
something for everyone. Located on
the second floor of Pale de Cz, next to
the Paradise Hotel.
SUNTORY [Japanese]
Food and drink in a classy setting.
Bonzai!
TAO [American/Sports Bar]
open: pub time 6 p.m.-12 a.m.,
club time 12 a.m.- 6 a.m.
tel. 1544-8030
clubtao
The newest edition to Haeundae beach,
Club Tao perfectly matches style and
elegance by combining a fantastic bistro
menu with a nighttime club scene.
TAP AND TAPAS [Spanish]
open: 3pm-5am
tel: 051-746-6318
web: www.tapntapas.com
Recently opened, Tap and Tapas
serves up high quality, well-presented Spanish cuisine in a striking
Dining & Food
03
12
05
trip
eS
02 SFUNZ
Save Zone
Dept. Store
d 05
Roa
nam
u
G
Sea Cloud Hotel
d
oa
hR
eac
Restaurant
Novotel Hotel
06
Toyota Dealership
Cafe
Haeundae
City Hall
Paradise Hotel
Dept. Store
dae
eun
Ha
ach
Be
Paradise Hotel
& Casino
ad
Ro
Haeundae Beach
01
04
05
08
09
Pale De Cz
02
11
10
MARINE CITY
Lotte Apt
Boraville
Apt
4
3 Dong
ba
ek S
tn
Daewoo Marina
3 Cha
Daewoo Marina
2 Cha
Busan
Cinemateque
Haeu
ndae
e City
2-Ro
Home Plus
05
Hyatt
Hotel
IPark
Marin
MARINE CITY
RESTAURANTS
02 Kraze Burger
03 Hello Sushi
04 The Pan
05 Hyatt Dining Room
CAFES
02 Tom n Toms
03 Starbucks
04 Caffe Benne
Shopping
04
B
ae
nd
eu
Ha
ach
Bar/Pub/Lounge
HAEUNDAE
CLUBS
01 Elune
02 Tao
BARS/PUBS/LOUNGES
01 Thursday Party
02 Miami 88
03 Wolfhound
04 Rock n Roll
05 Fuzzy Navel
06 U2
08 Sector 510
09 Geckos
10 Sharkys Pale De Cz
11 Billie Jean
12 Tap and Tapas
12 TBR
13 Sharkys The Strip
RESTAURANTS
01 TGI Fridays
01 Mad For Garlic
01 Ganga
02 Hello Thai
03 Namaste
04 Loving Hut
05 Mercado
CAFES
01 Coffine Gurunaru
02 Angel-In-Us
03 Angel-In-Us
04 Starbucks
05 Caffe Bene
Haeundae
01 Bus Depot
nda
u
Hae
03
04
03
oad
in R
Ma
BMW 02
Dealership 02
Haeundae
Aquarium
nam
Gu-
2
3 1
ae
und
01
13
oad
Hae
Club
Business
ch Roa
LEGEND
ae Bea
ALMOST FAMOUS [Dance/Techno]

Funky atmosphere, great staff.
AYUTA [Indian]
Friendly staff, good food.
BEIJING GO-CHI [Chinese]
Great skewers, great food, cheap prices.
BLUE MONKEY [Dance/Hip Hop]
open: 7pm to late
tel. 051-611-2888
blue-monkey
open: 11am - 11pm
tel: 051-625-6651
burger-pasta
With three locations around Busan,
Burger and Pasta offer a solid menu,
and reasonable prices that make
them a hit with young Koreans
and expats. Set in the traditional
Thursday Party wooden decor, they
offer pasta, burgers and a brunch
with a small patio to enjoy the street
catwalk on sunny days.
CAFE RADIO [Cafe]
Great atmosphere. Relax with a book.
EVAS TICKET [Western/Sports]
Eva offers tons of things to keep you
occupied.
MAPS
01
Haeundae
Tourist Office
Haeundae
Subway &
Train Stn
4
6
Harbour
Town
Haeundae Be
KYUNGSUNG
HAPS
Haeund
new setting in Haeundae. With an

extensive menu of upscale cocktails
and a tap room, its a great place to
meet for an informal meeting, or out
for a night on the town to impress.
T.G.I. FRIDAYS [Chain]
tel: 051-740-6531
Good reliable chain in the Harbor Town
building, across from the beach.
THE WOLFHOUND PUB [Irish Pub]
open: 6pm - 2am weekdays,
11am - 2am weekends
tel: 051-746-7940
web: www.wolfhoundpub.com
tel: 051-744-6621
open: 6pm - late
thursday-party
A staple of the Busan landscape,
Thursday Party Haeundae offers a
casual, yet comfortable option after
a day at the beach. With a patio for
outdoor sitting, this open-aired
spacious pub brings the usual quality
service the locals and expats have
come to expect from the Thursday
Party empire.
U2 BAR [Lounge]
Great place to chill, awesome service, a
Haeundae institution.
VAN GOGH TERRACE [Italian]
Nice view of the water while you eat.
HAEUNDAE
Daewoo Marina
1 Cha
Haeb
yun R
Sun Plaza
Zenith Towers
Zenith Square
WooShin
Golden
Suite
03
Marina
Center
Bene City
03
04 02
Ro
ity 1rine C
Ma
02 04
Nightlife & Dining Directory

FULLY BOOKED [Cafe/Bar]
open: Tues-Thurs 7pm - 12am, Fri 7pm 1am, Sat 2pm - 2am, Sun 2pm - 12am
tel. 070-8170-9628
web: www.busanhaps.com/fullybooked
[American/Korean Fusion]
People rave about it. Nominated in Best
Burger.
INTERPLAY [Live Music/Event]
Live music, hit or miss if you catch on a
good night.
HQ BAR [American/Sports Bar]
MOO MONK [Live Music]
open: Mon-Sat 6:00-Late, Sun 4:00-9:00
Can catch some great Korean indie
tel: 010-7544-8830
bands here.
web: www.facebook.com/hq.bar.5
HQ Bar is your place in KSU for
RED BOTTLE [Korean/Expat Bar]
drunken mistake-making. We have an Good spot to get a drink.
ever-expanding variety of microbrew
RISTORANTE [Italian]
bottles and craft beers on tap; an
extensive selection of late-night pub Great Italian fare at the Nongshim Hotel.
SHABANA [Indian]
grub; rugby, football, and kung fu
tel: 051-517-1947
movies; and a music selection that,
Nice Indian food for cheap.
according to our customers, isnt
awful.
SOULTRANE [Comedy/Event/Rock]
tel: 051-515-1181
MONKS JAZZ CLUB [Jazz Club]
Busans only jazz club. Tuesday nights
soul-trane
are hot.
One of the oldest expat bars in the city,
OL 55 [Live Music/Event]
the once foreigner oriented Soultrane
tel: 051-627-5645
nonetheless draws a healthy mix of
web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ol55 locals, expats and tourists.
Ol55 is located in the heart of Kyungsung University and is noted for its Open THE BASEMENT [Korean/Expat Bar]
Mic Wednesdays, which are known to
basement
host the best Korean and expat musiOne of the most popular bars in the area.
cians in town.
Always a great time, and anchors the
PAINTED CHAIR CAFE [Cafe/Gallery]
PNU scene.
The art, the atmosphere. Good place
to chill.
open: 6pm - late
SHABANA [Indian]
tel: 051-621-4821
thursday-pnu
Good, affordable Indian food.
The newest offering from Thursday
Party brings its rustic charm to PNU.
THE SUSHI [Japanese]
Expect more of the same as the other
tel: 051-611-4043
locations around the city, including
Affordable, quality Japanese food.
its great service and nightly crowds
THURSDAY PARTY [Korean/Expat Bar] that TP has become famous for.
open: 6pm - late
SEOMYEON
thursday-party2
BUFFALO
CHICKEN
[Chicken]
With ten Thursday Partys around the
tel: 051-805-3512
city, it has become a staple for the
Good chicken chain with several interyoung, hip Korean university crowd
esting sauces.
and expats alike. Beer pong, sports
BUONA OVEN PIZZA [Italian]
on TV and the free curry popcorn or
tel: 051-904-8239
salted spaghetti sticks are always in
Nice, oven-baked pizza and spaghetti.
play, as is a busy crowd almost every
evening of the week.
CLUB FIX [Nightclub]
tel: 051-905-5777
VINYL UNDERGROUND
web: www.clubfixkorea.info
[Nightclub/Event Bar]
New super club. International DJs and
www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/vinyl
Vinyl Underground is known as the spot dress code required.
for live music in the Kyungsung area.
DIVISION 9 [Lounge]
Pinball, darts, basketball, drinking and
PNU
good fun.
CROSSROADS [Live Music/Pub]
DRAGON DREAM (THE CAVE BAR)
open: 7pm-late
[Korean]
tel: 051-515-1181
tel: 051-646-5924
Very interesting decor with a nice seleccrossroads
tion of food.
A small, but atmospheric watering hole
FOXY DANCE [Club]
in PNU, Crossroads has been a Busan
institution amongst the expats for years. Dance club, usually packed on the
weekend.
FARMERS BURGERS
48 HAPS_summer 2014
FUZZY NAVEL- SEOMYEON I

[Food/Bar]
open: 5pm - 6am
tel: 051-808-1007
Check out the newly refurbished bar
offering a variety of entertainment
including, soft darts, pool, and table
soccer. Awesome DJs and a wide floor
make this place to be at night. Also,
new to Seomyeon, the same amazing Mexican food as served at the
Haeundae Fuzzy Navel is prepared in
our large renovated kitchen.
FUZZY NAVEL- SEOMYEON Il [Bar]
open: 5pm - 6am
tel: 051-817-2242
On the ground floor with a sliding
window for when the weather is
good, an excellent mix of Koreans and
foreigners makes this a good place to
make new friends. A comfortable atmosphere, where you will be looked
after by the friendly staff, who will
even give you a fireshow if you are
celebrating a special occasion.
HANGOVER [Western Pub]
open: 6 p.m. to 2 a.m. Tuesday - Sunday
tel: 070-7789-5868
web: www.busanhaps.com/freehousehangover
From the good folks that brought you
the great Italian food at Vitos, this
new eatery/bar located in the prime
of Seomyeon brings delicious western
food and fine tasting beer with its
unique refrigeration system.
ROCK N ROLL BAR [Rock]
A true dive. Good atmosphere and pool
and darts.
T.G.I. FRIDAYS [Chain]
tel: 051-805-3164
Two locations in Seomyeon to choose
from.
open: 6pm - late
tel: 051-818-6621
thursday-party-1
You can expect more of the same
from the Seomyeon Thursday
Party, which caters to a young,
eclectic mix of Koreans and expats.
Nestled amongst a slew of bars and
restaurants behind Judies Taewha,
Thursday Party stands out for their
unique charm, quality service and hip
atmosphere amongst the Korean cool.
VITO [Italian]
tel: 051-806-5868
web: www.busanhaps.com/food/vito
Fashioned in the tradition of the small
Italian trattoria, Vito brings back a taste
of the old country.
NAMPO
ARUN THAI [Thai]
open: 11a.m. - 10 p.m.
tel: 051-908-9085
web: www.facebook.com/arunthai.kr
The chefs at Arun Thai bring you
succulently prepared authentic Thai
dishes at very reasonable rates. This
delightful restaurant, nestled on
the second floor some 50m in the
back alleyway next to KFC, is a great
meeting place, whether for a light
lunch or large-scale dinner in a stylish
environment with friendly service.
FARMERS BURGERS [International]
Enjoy a quality, fresh-made burger and
fries on the roof.
FUZZY NAVEL [Food/Bar]
open: 6 p.m. - late
tel: 051-244-6349
With their newest location opening
in Gwangbok in the Nampo-dong
district, you can enjoy the freshness
of their signature fruit cocktails in
their new tiki-style bar that takes
you away from the hustle and bustle
of city life and transports you to the
tropics.
KUHN [Asian]
Hosts a variety of Southeast Asian dishes
at good prices.
NEW LITTLE INDIA [Indian]
open: 11am- 10pm
tel: 051-245-4127
web: www.busanhaps.com/food/newlittle-india
Situated on the second floor in the
heart of Nampodong, New Little India
specializes in the finest authentic
Indian cuisine.
THE PAN [Brunch]
Nestled amongst a slew of outdoor
terrace restaurants.
open: 6pm - late
thursday-party-1
The Thursday Party Nampo store
offers a slightly varied atmosphere
than the others around the city,
though by no means is it less exciting.
A slightly more mixed crowd of expats
and young Koreans is to be expected,
as well as the great service that TP
has become renowned for.
SERVICES DIRECTORY
AIRLINES
AIR BUSAN
tel: 051-974-8686
web: www.busanair.com
AIR FRANCE
tel: 02-3483-1033
web: www.airfrance.co.kr
Dining & Food
mR
oad
Gw
ang
-na
Club
02
Bar/Pub/Lounge
Restaurant
04
Cafe
Gw
ang
an B
e ac
hR
o ad
01
03
01
-na
mR
oad
Dawn Beach
Hotel
05
02
02
02
08
Gw
ang
an B
eac
hR
oad
Gw
ang
Park
Hotel
To G
01
eum
nye
on
07
san 03
Sub
way
03
06
Stn
.
KYUNGSUNG
12
LEGEND
Bukyung
University
Car Park
Perugio
Apartments
04
02
2
13
04
06 03
08
01
03
11
07
Yongsu Road
01
Century 21
Building
02
3
4
10
09
05
oad
su R
g
Yon
02
5
6
Kyungsung
University
McDonalds
CGV
04
03
ad
798 Nae-ri, Gijang-eup, Gijang-gun

tel: 051-742-3332
web: www.bifskorea.org
Business
g Ro
BUSAN INTERNATIONAL FOREIGN SCHOOL
Homers
Hotel
eon
S uy
BUSAN JAPANESE SCHOOL

173-8 Millak-dong, Suyoung-gu
tel: 051-753-4166
web: user.chollian.net/~pusjpnsc
BUSAN OVERSEAS CHINESE
KINDERGARTEN
548-1 Choryang-dong, Dong-gu
tel: 051-468-2845
web: kbces.com.ne.kr
LEGEND
oad
FOREIGN SCHOOLS
BUSAN FOREIGN SCHOOL
1366-3 Jwa-dong, Haeundae-gu
tel: 051-747-7199
web: www.busanforeignschool.org
Aqua Palace
Hotel
vel
Na
zy
01
z
u
F
to
0m
10
MAPS
GWANGAN
BARS/PUBS/LOUNGES
01 Galmegi Brew House
02 Beach Bikini
03 Thursday Party
04 Fuzzy Navel
05 Beached
06 Sharkys
07 Galmegi Brewing
08 Tap and Tapas
RESTAURANTS
01 Burger n Pasta
02 Bella Citta
03 Blue Saigon
CAFES
01 Tom n Toms
02 Twosome Place
03 Starbucks
BUSINESS/OTHER
01 Kai Surf Shop
02 New Philadelphia
Seaside Church
KYUNGSUNG
BARS/PUBS/LOUNGES
01 Almost Famous
02 Club Realize
03 HQ
04 Blue Monkey
06 Ho Bar
07 Thursday Party
08 New Foxy
09 Vinyl Underground
10 Ol55
11 Fabric
12 Fully Booked
13 Monk
RESTAURANTS
02 Burger & Pasta
03 Outback
04 Okkudak
CAFES
01 Starbucks
02 Tom n Toms
03 Angel-In-Us
04 Angel-In-Us
ubw
ay S
t
n.
gR
EDUCATION
an S
eon
Suy
AMCHAM
#4501, Trade Tower 159-1, Samsungdong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul
tel: 02-564-2040
web: www.amchamkorea.org
An independent association of American and international businesses,
the role of the American Chamber
of Commerce is to promote business
and trade between the United States
and Korea.
ECCK
102-2903 WBC The Palace
1523, Haeundae-gu
tel: 051-959-9695
web: www.ecck.eu
The European Chamber of Commerce
aims to provide an effective network
of business associates together with
discussion forums and seminars
on how to do business in Korea, as
well as an array of social networking
events.
HAPS
BUSINESS ORGANIZATIONS
GWANGAN
ASIANA AIRLINES - INTERNATIONAL

tel: 051-971-2626
web: www.flyasiana.com
CEBU PACIFIC AIR
tel: 051-462-0686
web: www.cebupacificair.com
JEJU AIR
tel: 070-7420-1502
web: www.jejuair.net
KOREAN AIR - INTERNATIONAL
tel: 051-970-3227
web: www.koreanair.com
LUFTHANSA
tel: 02-2019 0180
web: www.lufthansa.com
KLM ROYAL DUTCH AIRLINES
tel: 02-3483-1133
web: www.klm.com
To G
wan
g
GS Gas Station
Services Directory
TESOL TRAINING
KOTESOL
Email: bgkotesol@gmail.com
Facebook: Busan-Gyeongnam KOTESOL
Chapter
KOREAN LESSONS
BUSAN FOUNDATION FOR
INTERNATIONAL ACTIVITIES
tel: 051-668-7900
web: www.bfia.or.kr
email: busanglobalcenter@gmail.com
KLIFF
tel: 051-513-0131
web: www.kliff.co.kr
email: jennakang@hanmail.net
PNU LANGUAGE EDUCATION CENTER
tel: 051-510-1983
web: www.ili.pusan.ac.kr
email: bangjy77@pusan.ac.kr
INFORMATION
EXPAT ASSISTANCE
CALL CENTER FOR FOREIGN
RESIDENTS IN BUSAN
tel: 1577-7716
FREE TRANSLATION SERVICE (BBB)
tel: 1588-5644
MULTICULTURAL FAMILY
SUPPORT CENTER
tel: 1577-5432
INFORMATION CENTERS
TOURIST INFORMATION SERVICE
tel: 1330
BEXCO TOURIST INFORMATION
CENTER
tel: 051-740-7300
BUSAN GLOBAL CENTER
tel: 1577-7716
BUSAN INTL PASSENGER TERMINAL
TOURIST INFORMATION
tel: 051-465-3471
BUSAN STATION TOUR
INFORMATION
tel: 051-441-6565
GIMHAE INTL AIRPORT TOUR
INFORMATION (DOMESTIC)
tel: 051-973-4607
GIMHAE INTL AIRPORT TOUR INFORMATION (INTERNATIONAL)
tel: 051-973-2800
HAEUNDAE TOURIST
INFORMATION CENTER
tel: 051-749-5700
INTERNATIONAL FERRY
INFORMATION CENTER
tel: 051-465-3471
NOPODONG BUS TERMINAL
TOURIST INFORMATION
50 HAPS_summer 2014
tel: 051-508-9400
UN MEMORIAL CEMETERY
TOURIST INFORMATION
tel: 051-625-1608
MEDICAL
DENTAL CLINICS
NEW YORK SMILE ORTHODONTICS
open: Mon-Wed, Fri 10:00am 7:00pm,
Sat 10:00am 5:00pm
tel: 051-702-6677
web: www.nycdortho.com
At New York Smile Orthodontics,
we provide specialized orthodontic
care for children, teens and adults.
We make every effort to provide
affordable orthodontic treatment
in a relaxed and caring manner to
every individual who is unhappy
with his or her smile. We use the
most technologically-advanced orthodontic methods available including
clear braces, self-ligating braces,
invisalign, lingual braces and faster
braces.
BOSTON DENTAL
open: Mon-Wed, Fri 9:30 am-7 pm, Thu
9:30 am-9 pm, Sat 9:30 am-2 pm
tel:051-554-2879
web: blog.naver.com/boston8211
Located in Sooang-dong in Dongnae,
Dr. Sim Kyeong-mok leads the team
at Boston Dental for all your dental
needs. With an English speaking staff
and multiple degrees from Americas
best dental schools, they are available to give you 100% success with
implant services with their cuttingedge implant machine with a rich-full
procedure experience. All dental
services are available.
HEALTH CENTERS
DONGNAE HEALTH CENTER
702-54, Myeongryun-2 dong,
Dongnae-gu
tel: 051-555-4000

HAEUNDAE HEALTH CENTER
1339, Jwa-2 dong, Haeundae-gu
tel: 051-746-4000
JUNG-GU HEALTH CENTER
1 Ga 1, Daecheong-dong, Jung-gu
tel: 051-600-4741
HERBAL CLINICS

DONGEUI UNIVERSITY HOSPITAL
397-3, Bujeon-1 dong, Busanjin-gu
tel: 051-803-5430
GOOD SAMSUN HANBANG
1162-2, Jurye-dong, Sasang-gu
tel: 051-325-0300

OTHER CLINICS
KHAP
open: 10 am - 4 pm weekdays
tel: 02-927-4322
web: www.khap.org
The Korean Federation for HIV/AIDS
Prevention offers three locations
nationwide with additional services
including counseling services to
foreigners and migrant workers face
to face and by telephone. With a
number of foreign languages available to have consultation, KHAP has
become one of the most recognized
HIV/AIDS information base in the
Republic of Korea.
HOSPITALS
BUK-GU/DONGNAE
BUMIN HOSPITAL
380-4, Deokcheon 1-dong
tel: 051-330-3000
web: www.buminhos.co.kr
DONG EUI MEDICAL CENTER
San 45-1, Yangjeong 2-dong
tel: 051-867-5101
web: www.demc.kr
DONGNAE BONG SENG
HOSPITAL
766, Anlak 1-dong
tel: 051-531-6000
web: www.bongseng.com
DONGRAE WOORIDUL HOSPITAL
205-10, Nakmin-dong
tel: 051-559-5000
web: www.dongrae.wooridul.co.kr

INJE UNIVERSITY BUSAN
PAIK HOSPITAL
633-165, Gaegum 2-dong
tel: 051-893-7761
DONG-GU
GOOD MOONHWA HOSPITAL
open: 24 hours
tel: 051-630-0123
web: www.moonwha.or.kr
Good Moonhwa Hospital has become
famous for its success in IVF for the
first time as a private medical facility in Busan and Gyeongnam area.
With 36 years experience and service
in English, Japanese, Chinese and
Russian, this full-service hospital has
everything to take care of your medical needs.
HAEUNDAE
HYOSUNG CITY HOSPITAL
1094-2, Jaesong 1-dong
tel: 051-709-3000
web: www.hshos.com
INJE UNIV. HAEUNDAE
PAIK HOSPITAL
1435, Jwa-dong
tel: 051-797-0100
web: www.paik.ac.kr/Haeundae
JUNG-GU
HAEYANG HOSPITAL
80-8 Jungang-dong 4-ga
tel: 051-469-4456
web: www.haeyang.net
MARYKNOLL MEDICAL CENTER
12, Daecheong-dong 4-ga
tel: 051-465-8801
web: www.maryknoll.co.kr
NAM-GU
BUSAN ST. MARY'S
MEDICAL CENTER
538-41, Yongho 4-dong
tel: 051-933-7114
web: www.bsm.or.kr
SEO-GU
DONG-A UNIVERSITY
MEDICAL CENTER
3-ga, #1 Dongdaeshin-dong
tel: 051-240-2400
web: www.damc.or.kr

PUSAN NATIONAL
UNIVERSITY HOSPITAL
10, Ami-dong 1-ga
tel: 051-254-0171
web: www.pnug.co.kr
SUYEONG
BUSAN CENTUM
HOSPITAL
1077-1, Gwangan 3-dong
tel: 051-760-5000
web: www.centumhospital.com
BUSAN HANNAH
WOMAN'S HOSPITAL
304, Namcheon-dong
tel: 051-625-2300
web: www.hannah4u.co.kr
GOOD GANGAN
HOSPITAL
40-1, 41-9, Namcheon-dong
tel: 051-625-0900
web: www.gang-an.or.kr
RELIGIOUS SERVICES
AL-FATIH MASJID MOSQUE
Namsan-dong, #30-1 Guemjeong-gu
tel: 051-518-9991
web: www.busanislam.or.kr
Services: 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. daily
GIFT MINISTRY
Myung-nyun-dong, Dongnae-gu
tel: 010-7999-8644
web: www.tinyurl.com/lifeisagift
Services: Saturdays,10:30 a.m.
HOSANNA CHURCH
Myeongji-dong, #3245-5 Gangseo-gu,
GWANGBOK
20-1, 7 ga, Jung-ang Dong,
Jung-gu, Busan
tel: 051-678-2500
SEOMYEON
Bujeondong, Busan-jingu, Busan
tel: 051-810-2500

HYUNDAI DEPT. STORE
62-5, Beomil-dong, Dong-gu, Busan
Sojeon Road
12
Bar/Pub/Lounge
Taewha
03 Judies
Dept. Store 01
15
01
4 2
13
Jungkangdae Road
Seomyeon
Subway Stn.
Cafe
05
11
01 02
Seomyeon Road
03
Lotte Hotel &

Seven Luck Casino
01
Jungang-dong Sub.
6
Lotte Dept. Store
Lotte Dept.
Store
NAMPO-DONG
10
LEGEND
02
3
1
04
Yongdusan Park
06
03
Busan Modern
History Museum
01
Daegaksa
Temple
d Shoppin
g Mall
Busan
Tower
Tourist
05 03 04 Information
02
Jalgalchi
Fish
Market
rgroun
NAMPO-DONG
RESTAURANTS
01 Arun Thai
02 KFC
03 The Pan
04 The Pho
05 New Little India
06 Farmers Burgers
07 McDonalds
CAFES
01 Caffe Bene
02 Starbucks
03 Angel-In-Us
04 Hollys
05 The Cafe
06 Caffe Bene
03
8
10
Restaurant
02 04
01
o Unde
DONGNAE
502-3, Oncheonjeong,
Dongnae-gu, Busan
tel: 051-605-2500
Club
02
02
01
Namp
FOUR LOCATIONS
CENTUM CITY
1496, U Dong, Haeundae-gu, Busan
tel: 051-730-2500
Business
.
g Sub
DEPT. STORES
LOTTE DEPT. STORE
www.lotteshopping.com
Open: 10:30 ~ 20:00
06
o-don
SHOPPING
02
LEGEND
SEOMYEON
CLUBS
01 Fix
02 Foxy
BARS/PUBS/LOUNGES
01 Rock n Roll
02 Spot
03 Thursday Party
04 Fuzzy Navel
05 Fuzzy Navel II
06 Hangover
RESTAURANTS
01 Vito
02 TGI Fridays
CAFES
01 Angel-In-Us
02 Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf
03 Twosome Place
04 Tom n Toms
BUSINESS
01 Kangs Dental
02 Apple Store
03 St. Louis Dental
Dongcheon Road
Namp
BUSAN MUSEUM OF ART

40, Apec-ro, Haeundae-gu, Busan
tel: 051-740-2602
web: www.art.busan.go.kr
Opening Hours - 09:00 ~ 20:00
Closed - Jan. 1, Every First Monday
Admission Fee - Free
BUSAN MODERN HISTORY MUSEUM
104, Daechung-ro, Jung-gu, Busan
tel: 051-253-3845
web: www.modern.busan.go.kr
Opening Hours - 09:00 ~ 18:00
Closed - Jan.1, Every First Monday
Admission Fee - Free
BUSAN MUSEUM
63, UN Peace-ro, Nam-gu, Busan
tel: 051-610-7111
web: www.museum.busan.go.kr
Hours of operation - 09:00 ~ 20:00
Closed - Jan. 1, Every First Monday
Admission fee - Free
BUSAN UN MEMORIAL CEMETERY
AND PARK
779, Daeyon 4 dong, Nam-gu, Busan
tel: 051-625-0625
web: www.unmck.or.kr
Hours of operation - 09:00 ~ 17:00
Open Year Round
Admission fee - Free
MAPS
04
Dongcheon Road
Cosmetic Surgery Street
MUSEUMS
HAPS
Jungang
Middle School
D City
Dept Store
Sojeon Road
NEW PHILADELPHIA CHURCH

Suyeong-gu Gwangan 2-dong 199-6
(8th floor)
tel: 051-932-6832
web: www.newphilly.cc
Services: Sundays, 2:30 pm
SEOMYEON
Kayodae Road
tel: 051-209-0191
web: www.him-busan.blogspot.com
Services: Sundays, 12:30 p.m.
06
PIFF
Squaure
Gukje Market
Restaurant
Cafe
07
05
Services Directory
tel: 051-667-2233
Open: 10:30 ~ 20:00
tel: 051-668-7900
web: www.bfia.or.kr
SHINSEGAE DEPT. STORE

(CENTUM CITY)
1495 Wu-dong, Haeundae-gu, Busan
tel: 1588-1234
web: www.english.shinsegae.com
Open: 10:30 ~ 20:00
BUSAN FRIENDSHIP GROUP

www.meetup.com/Pusans
CLOTHING/SPORTS
KAI SURF SHOP
183-11 Gwangan-dong, Suyeong-gu
tel: 051-753-2746
SOCIAL/NON-PROFIT
ORGANIZATIONS
BUSAN BANDITS RUGBY
Facebook Group: Busan Bandits
BUSAN BOOK SWAP
Facebook Group: Busan Book Swap
BUSAN BOWLING LEAGUE
Contact: David Alderman
tel: 010.7919.1223
Facebook Group: Busan Bowling League
BUSAN FOUNDATION FOR
INTERNATIONAL ACTIVITIES
ULTIMATE FRISBEE LEAGUE

Email: ch.pyles@gmail.com
BTC FOOTBALL
FB Group: Busan Transportation Corporation Supporters Fanpage
EPIK TEACHERS
IN BUSAN
Facebook Group: Busan EPIK
EXPAT SAILING CLUB
Contact: Mark Chi
email: Koreasailing@gmail.com
web: www.busansailing.com
LAOCHRA BUSAN GAELIC
ATHLETIC ASSOCIATION CLUB
Contact: Peter Bonner
email: busangaa@gmail.com
Facebook Group: Laochra Busan Members
GROCERIES
COSTCO
web: www.costco.co.kr
E-MART
web: www.emart.com
HOMEPLUS
web: www.homeplus.co.kr
MEGAMART
web: www.megamart.co.kr
INTERNET GROCERIES
EZSHOP KOREA
web: www.ezshopkorea.com
HIGH STREET MARKET
open: 24/7 online, Seoul in-store 10am to
10pm daily.
tel: 02-2201-0652
web: highstreet.co.kr
email: hsmonline@authenticgroup.co.kr
High Street Market has all your favorite foods from home ready for delivery to your workplace or doorstep for
just W3,000! Hard-to-find western
foods, sliced-to-order deli meats,
imported premium cuts of meat,
gourmet cheeses, variety of spices,
homemade vegan & gluten free foods
and more.
NICE MARKET
web: www.nicemarket.net
FAST FOOD
MCDONALDS
tel: 1600-5252
web: www.mcdonalds.co.kr
LOTTERIA
tel: 1600-9999
web: www.lotteria.com
BURGER KING
No delivery
web: www.burgerking.co.kr
KFC
No delivery
web: www.kfckorea.com
QUIZNOS
No delivery
web: www.quiznos.co.kr
FIND MORE
INFORMATION
ON THE
BUSANHAPS.COM
DIRECTORY
Humetro Call Center

Lost & Found Center
52 HAPS_summer 2014
Seomyeon Stn.
FREE OUTDOOR
MOVIE SCREENINGS
BUSAN CINEMA CENTER OUTDOOR THEATER
EACH WEDNESDAY, 8 P.M.
Enjoy a free movie on Busan Cinema Centers massive outdoor screen each Wednesday this summer at 8 p.m.
PNU
[PUSAN NATIONAL UNIVERSITY]

01
LEGEND
Time: 8 p.m.
Venue: Busan Cinema Center Outdoor Theater
Tickets: Free
Web: www.dureraum.org
LEGEND
Business
Club
Bar/Pub/Lounge
Restaurant
d
ong Roa
Geumje
07
08
02
PNU
Main
Gate
05
Busan
Bank
Pusan National Uni. Road
02
04
03 02
03
Business
01
3
01
PNU
BARS/PUBS/LOUNGES
01 Thirsty Moose
02 Wa Bar
03 Basement
06
03
Good
Plus
PNU Subway Stn
Cafe
04 Crossroads
04 Soultrane
05 Red Bottle
06 Interplay
07 Moo Monk
08 Bling
RESTAURANTS
01 Won Chon
02 The Box
03 Tajmahal
CAFES
01 Angel-In-Us
02 Charlie Brown
03 Twosome Place
04 Starbucks
05 Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf
05
ad
Note: Schedule and movie may change without notice.

Photo: Coop Himmelblau
04
Geumjeong Ro
FILM LIST
June 11: I Love You
June 25: The Miracle of Bern
July 2: Untouchable
July 9: Miracle in Cell No.7
July 16: Mamma Mia
August 13: Black
August 20: The Kid with a Bike
August 27: The Umbrellas of Cherbourg
September 3: French Cancan
September 10: 3 Idiots
September 17: Midnight in Paris
Bar/Pub/Lounge
Restaurant
Cafe
The Last Word
Tharp On:
Motorcycles
By Chris
Tharp Illustration By Michael Roy
We wanna be free. We wanna be free to do what we wanna do. We wanna be free to ride.
We wanna be free to ride our machines without being hassled by The Man.
And we wanna get loaded!!! - Peter Fonda, Wild Angels
I knew something was terribly wrong when I heard the horn
blast, so close, followed by screaming rubber. My blood turned
to ice, knowing that things were totally out of my controlthat
the only factor between living and dying was just how quickly
that driver could manage to slow down.
Impact. Spinning. An audible crunch.
Thud.
When I came to, I was on the pavement. My shoulder was on
fire. A nova of pain radiated from my lower left leg, now bent at
a 90-degree angle. I could see the jagged end of my shin bone
sticking out through black denim. I was overwhelmed and disoriented and wanted to puke. The only thing I knew was that I
wouldnt be walking away.
Motorcycles. Yeah, theyre dangerous, but theyre among the
most thrilling inventions of mankind. They represent the ideas
of absolute freedom and total individualism. Jump on and go
wherever you want. Theyve been mythologized and romanticized in cinema and song as the symbol of a modern iconoclast,
outlaw or free thinker. And when you ride, youre much more
in touch with your surroundings than you are within the aluminum box of a car. I was so in touch with my surroundings that I
bounced off its bumper, but there is something immensely satisfying about tasting the air and smelling the trees and feeling
the wind whip around you. Theres just nothing that compares
to cruising down the open road on the back of a bike.
Riding in a large Korean city such as Busan is a different matter.
Youre more likely to taste exhaust, smell raw sewage and feel
the angry glares of chain-smoking taxi drivers. And theres usually not a lot of open road. You spend most of your time weaving between cars or dodging blue and orange busses piloted
by sadistic men who probably grew up torturing animals. Its a
grueling, gory free-for-all out there, and motorcycles get little
respect. They are widely viewed as the rodents of the Korean
road food chain: annoying little creatures to be exterminated
and preyed upon. People swerve into your lane without caring
if youre already occupying it, signals be damned; they whizz
by in lethal vehicles just millimeters from your soft bodyone
54 HAPS_summer 2014
miscalculation and youre jiggae, buddy; they pull out from side
streets straight in front of you, just daring you to do them a favor
and slam into their shiny, expensive front fender. Go ahead punk.
Make my quota.
Riding in the city is a death wish, yet so many of us do it. The
motorcycle or scooter is the preferred method of personal
transportation for the expatriate in Korea. Sure some tubby, old
lifers drive cars, but far more of us zip around on motorbikes.
Why is this? One reason is that theyre cheap. Just a few hundred
bucks will set you up with a decent, functional bike, but more
that that, theyre fun. Humming around on a bike is a kick in the
pants. Suddenly, every grocery trip to Homeplus becomes the
trailer for Easy Rider 2: Cruising the Far East. And theyre inherently cool. Random, young Korean guys will see you on a bike
and shout out, Oh! Otobi very good! Handsome guy!!! You
can imagine yourself a badass biker as you pull into the school
where you teach, a proper Hells Angel, with a backpack containing a set of flashcards, a bingo game and Lets Go 3.
Most riders in Korea have a fairly elastic interpretation of traffic laws, meaning that they dont view them as laws at all, but
merely suggestions. And the cops dont seem to mind. Sometimes theyll pull riders over for not wearing a helmet, but otherwise you have carte blanche to take your machine wherever
you want in whichever manner you deem fit. Red lights are just
friendly warnings. Crosswalks were made to be blasted through
at full speedthe more pedestrians, the better. And the sidewalk? Thats the golden highway, baby! Ask anyone who owns
a bike: Its like riding through butter. Even 60s rockers Steppenwolf allude to it in their classic song, Born to Be Wild:
I like smoke and lightning
Oriental sidewalks
Shooting through a red light
On a Daelim Daystar gearbox
YOU HAVE CARTE BLANCHE TO TAKE YOUR

MACHINE WHEREVER YOU WANT IN WHICHEVER
MANNER YOU DEEM FIT. RED LIGHTS ARE JUST
FRIENDLY WARNINGS. CROSSWALKS WERE MADE
TO BE BLASTED THROUGH AT FULL SPEED
THE MORE PEDESTRIANS, THE BETTER.
Motorcycles, like drugs or extreme sports, are addictive. I certainly feel the jones to ride again, despite the fact that Im still
hobbling around on a crutch. Why? Because riding makes us
feel so alive, despite the fact that were only inches from death. I
found that out the hard way. Luckily, I avoided being turned into
jiggae, though my leg did look a bit like pajeon.
So enjoy it while it lasts. Korea is where the free spirit ideals
of riding a motorcycle are made even freer: Riders are unburdened from the yoke of traffic laws altogether. Its still pretty
much anything-goes out there, and despite the risks of grievous
bodily harm, I think Peter Fonda would dig the scene. Korea is
a great place to ride our machine without being hassled by The
Man, and yes, its also a great place to get loaded.
56 HAPS_summer 2014
58 HAPS_summer 2014

Haps Magazine - Korea - Issue 31, Jun/Jul 2014

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2002-present: Associate professor, The Sahlgrenska Academy, University of Gothenburg, Sweden,

Its Your Choice

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s people advance in age, it is natural that the contours

A Tale of Two Cities | 20

Events: The Big Five | 12

My, My, My Barcelona | 30

Medical Tourism Centers

ART & CULTURE

Interview: David A. Mason | 42

oull be hard pressed to find

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Most of us living in Korea choose Asian-based destinations for our holiday

Chris hails from Washington State and

STONEHENGE SUMMER SOLSTICE

THE WEB HERE

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BUSAN INT. KIDS FILM

Founded in 1946 and based at the Vienna

Now in its 9th year, BiKi is a collection of

BUSAN SEA FESTIVAL

PLEASE NOTE: DATES FOR EVENTS ARE SUBJECT TO CHANGE.

Out & About

WINE FEST 2014

After last years highly successful debut of the

2014 summer _ busanhaps.com 13

WORD ON THE STREET

DID YOU KNOW?

THE TRIGRAMS ON EACH

FIRST PHASE OF THE

Community & Living

BUSANS NEW PLAZA

IPARKS KEEPER HEADS TO BRAZIL

South Korea World Cup Fixtures

S. KOREA BIDS FOR 2019 WOMENS WORLD CUP

North Korean leader Kim Jong-uns

CATCH ME IF YOO CAN

Korea & World News

2014 summer _ busanhaps.com 17

Whether tooling around the side streets of Korea or taking to

Gadgets & Gear

PLAYDATE BIKE CLUB STANDARD

BURLEY BICYCLE TRAILER

A Tale of Two Cities:

Story & Photos By Shivaji

Ansan, the Multicultural City; Itaewon, the Western Town:

classes and running a shelter for migrant women who run

On the main street, men in American army uniforms are

The steam clouds rising from stacks

Originally from the north-eastern province of Assam in India,

2014 summer _ busanhaps.com 21

Places to See in Korea,

Chris Cusick, Scott Rotzoll & Vincent Carvalho

THIS PAGE: Seoraksan National Park, Photography by Chris Cusick

The War Stops Here

While calling it the Hawaii of Korea leans a bit to the side

Seoraksan Nat. Park,

Named as Koreas first national park under the National

An hour away from Busan by express bus or by train, Gyeongju is

of Oysters and Admirals

My, My, My Barcelona

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2. THE GOTHIC QUARTER