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This humble beauty is a 21st Century

explorer - though London is home, she


has rarely put down roots in recent
years. Instead, she has been pursuing
her love of travel and airplane
journeys (particularly when settled in
with a Bloody Mary and a bag of
peanuts). Creative through and
through she is mostly to be found
armed with her camera, excited by
taking portraits of landscapes, friends
and foliage on her voyages. She is
warm, enthusiastic and bright, living
in the world of possibilities - inspiring
and motivating all those around her.

Polly Top

Aloha!
What we love most about sewing at By Hand London HQ is the power it gives you over
your personal style. But, theres more! The other thing we really enjoy is the fact that
were developing a skill. We dig the internet, but nothing beats some good offline fun.
Sewing is the perfect creative outlet and to get the most out of it, here are just three
simple steps to follow when starting a new project:

1 Workspace

2 Tools

3S
 izing

Find a quiet room and


a big table. A girls gotta
concentrate, especially
when getting ready to
cut.


Check
youve got all
the tools you need.

Choose your size


carefully. Have a look at
our sizing chart. Please
bear in mind that if it
looks like you are coming
up in between sizes, then
the best thing to do is go
up a size. Were totally
aware that no matter
which sizing method we
use, bodies do not come
in a standard shape! We
definitely recommend
making up a toile you can
tweak, before cutting into
your lovely fabric.

There is nothing worse


than getting really excited
to start a project and
then realising youre
about to run out of
thread or you forgot
to get a zipper.

Contents
Tools, supplies and sizing

Layplans

Putting your printed pattern together

Inserting your front panel

Joining your shoulder and side seams

Binding your neckline and armholes 5-6


Hemming

Test square

Your Polly Top pattern 8-36

Polly Top
A woven tank top with clean lines
and a tab hem, Polly features a
contrast panel at the front allowing
for endless colour and fabric
combinations, as well as shaping
the bust without the need for
darts. Simple and quick to make,
but dont let that fool you; The Polly
Top provides just the right amount
of challenge, encouraging you to
hone your skills sewing curves and
making your own bias tape to bind
the neckline and armholes.

WHAT YOU NEED


TO MAKE YOUR TOP

TO PRINT AND ASSEMBLE PATTERN

Your fabric

Printer

Pins

A4 paper

Tape measure

Sellotape

Pinking shears (optional)

Paper scissors

Matching thread
Dress makers shears
Overlocker/serger (optional)

FRONT

RECOMMENDED FABRICS
Pollys a pretty flexible gal so have a go making her up in any of the following.light to medium
weight wovens such as cotton lawn, quilting, voile, shirting, poplin, batiste, broderie, flannel,
lace; drapey fabrics such as silk crepe de chine, silk charmeuse, chiffon, habotai, rayon, wool
crepe; even knits such as ponte, double knit and viscose jersey.

Sizing chart US/UK


2/6

4/8

6/10

8/12

10/14

12/16

14/18

16/20

33in
8334cm

34in
8614cm

35in
8834cm

37in
94cm

39in
99cm

42in
10612cm

45in
11414cm

26in
66cm

27in
6812cm

28in
71cm

30in
76cm

32in
8114cm

35in
89cm

38in
9612cm

36in
9112cm

37in
94cm

38in
9612cm

40in
10112cm

42in
10612cm

45in
11414cm

48in
122cm

36in
91cm

37in
94cm

39in
99cm

41in
104cm

44in
111cm

47in
119cm

36in
92cm

37in
95cm

39in
100cm

41in
105cm

44in
112cm

47in
120cm

41in
104cm

42in
106cm

44in
111cm

46in
116cm

49in
124cm

52in
132cm

20in
51cm

20in
52cm

21in
53cm

21in
53cm

Bust
32in
8114cm
Waist
25in
6312cm

BACK

Hips
35in
89cm

FInished bust
34in
86cm

35in
89cm

Finished waist
34in
87cm

35in
90cm

Finished hip
39in
99cm

40in
101cm

Length - centre back to hem

FABRIC REQUIRED

19in
49cm

19in
50cm

20in
50cm

20in
50cm

45 & 60
ALL SIZES
2.8 M
3 YDS

Layplans
Lay your pattern pieces onto your fabric according to the diagrams. Begin by laying down the pieces that belong on the fold,
being sure to pay attention to the grainline. Be sure to snip all notches and transfer all markings onto your fabric with tailors
chalk. Please note that we have included a standard 5/8 inch or 15mm seam allowance on all our patterns.
FRONT

45 & 60 WITH CONTRASTING PANEL


ALL SIZES

0.6m
0.6yds

D
D

1m
1yd

D
E

1.3m
1.3yds

BACK
C

45 & 60 WITHOUT CONTRASTING PANEL


ALL SIZES

D
D
E

1m
1yd

PATTERN
KEY
A

Front piece

Front panel

Back piece

Armhole binding

Neckline binding

1.8m
2yds

Right Side
Wrong Side

Fabric comes in a variety of widths,


but the most common options are
60 or 150cm and 45 or 115cm,
which is why weve used them
here to help you with your layplan.

US 12
/
U
K
16
US
1
0
/ UK
14
US 8
/ UK
12
US 6
/ UK
10
US 4
/ UK
8
US 2
/ UK
6

1B

1C

1C

1D

UK 20

1B

US 16
/

1A

UK 18

1A

US 14
/

Cut away excess paper around the border and then lay out your sheets, matching numbers and letters. Carefully tape
together and finally either trace or cut around your size.

1D

Test
Square
US 16 / UK 20

2B

2C

US 14 / UK 18

US 12 / UK 16

/ UK
20

/ UK
18

/ UK
16

US 16

/ UK
14

US 14

US 12

US 10

US 8
/ UK
12
US 6
/ UK
10
US 4
/ UK
8
US 2
/ UK
6

US 10 / UK 14

2B

2C

US 8 / UK 12

US 6 / UK 10

US 4 / UK 8

US 2 / UK 6

3A

2A

2B

2A

3A

2B
3A

3A

3B

2C

2D

2E

2C

2D

2E

3B

3C

3C

3D

3B

3B

3C

3C

P o lly
To p

3D

US 16 / UK 20

A r m h o le
b in d in g
US 14 / UK 18

Cu t 1 p a i r
US 12 / UK 16

US 10 / UK 14

P o lly T o p

US 8 / UK 12

US 6 / UK 10

UK 18

UK 20

US 14 /

US 16 /

UK 14

UK 16

6
US 2 / UK

8
US 4 / UK

12
US 8 / UK
10
US 6 / UK

US 10 /

US 12 /

F r o n t p ie c e
Cu t 1 o n f o l d

Place on fold

US 4 / UK 8
US 2 / UK 6

in

ainl

Gr

US 8 / UK 12
US 6 / UK 10
US 4 / UK 8
US 2 / UK 6

P o lly
To p

US 10 / UK 14

US 12 / UK 16

US 14 / UK 18

US 16 / UK 20

N e c k li n e
b in d in g

Cut 1
4A

4B

4A

4B
5A

5B

4C

4D

4C

4D

5B

4E
4E
5D

5D

Gr

ai

nl

in

5A

5C

5C

6
US 2 / UK

US 4 / UK 8

US 6 / UK 10

US 8 / UK 12

14
US 10 / UK

6A

6B

6C

6B

6C

6D

6E

6D

6E

K 16
US 12 / U

6A
US 14 / UK 18

US 16 / UK 20

US

US

UK

6/

US

UK

8/

US

10
12

UK

10

US

UK

12

US

7A

7A

7B

7B

7C

UK

14

16

/ UK

US

16 /

18

UK

20

7D

7D

US 12 / UK 16

US 8 / UK 12
US 6 / UK 10

US 4 / UK 8

8D

8E

8D

8E

P o lly T o p
Fr o n t p an e l
Cu t 1 o n f o l d

B
9A

9D

Place on fold

US 8 / UK 12
US 6 / UK 10
US 4 / UK 8
US 2 / UK 6

9A

9D

US 10 / UK 14
US 12 / UK 16

US 2 / UK 6

10B

10C

10D

10E

10B

10C

10D

10E

US 4 / UK 8

US 6 / UK 10
US 8 / UK 12

US 16 / UK 20

US 10 / UK 14

US 8 / UK 12
10
US 6 / UK
8
US 4 / UK
US 2 / UK 6

14
US 10 / UK

16
US 12 / UK

18
US 14 / UK

20
US 16 / UK

US 12 / UK 16

US 14 / UK 18
US 16 / UK 20

10A

US 14 / UK 18

10A

11A

11A

5A

11B

5A

11B

11C

11C

11D

11D

4B

4C

4B

4C
5B

5B

5C

5C

UK 16

9C

UK 14

9C

12
US 8 / UK
10
US 6 / UK

US 2 / UK 6

US 12 /

US 10 / UK 14

US 10 /

F r o n t p ie c e
Cu t 1 o n f o l d

US 16 / UK 20

US 14 / UK 18

6
US 2 / UK

9B

14

8
US 4 / UK

8C

US 14 / UK 18

Place on fold

8C

8B

US 16 / UK 20

US 4 / UK 8

US 2 / UK 6

8B

9B

US 6 / UK 10

8A

US 8 / UK 12

8A

US 10 / UK 14

US 12 / UK 16

P o lly T o p
B a c k p ie c e
Cu t 1 o n f o l d

7C

P o lly T o p

UK

4/

US

Place on fold

e
g

Putting your printed pattern together

Sew off you go!


(sorry, couldnt resist...)

Inserting your front panel


Not only does it lend itself to endless experimentation, the front panel also
gives shape to the top, therefore eliminating the need for darts at the bust similar to the way a princess seam works.

Lay out your front piece, right side facing down. Now lay the panel, also right
side facing down, into the corresponding space of the front piece.
Carefully pinch the two raw edges together, pinning the notches first, then
pinning the rest of the panel into place. Remember your 5/8 or 15mm seam
allowance, and go slowly around the curves, easing the fabric as you go.

Press the excess seam allowance towards the centre front, and finish either by
trimming the excess with pinking shears or overlock/serge.

TIP

If youre struggling with the curve try to start sewing at the centre front, and
stitch down each side of the panel one by one. This prevents the fabric moving
as you ease the curves at the corners.

Joining your shoulder and side seams


A

Lay out the front and back pieces of your top, right sides
together, and pin the shoulders.
B

Stitch, press open and finish the excess seam allowance.


Now pin down the side seams, right sides together, and stitch.
Press the side seams open and finish the excess seam
allowance.

TIP

Its a good idea to clip the excess seam allowance at the curve of the side
seams in order to let the top hang just right.

Bias binding
Bias binding is the perfect way to finish the neckline and armholes of a top like
this. The fact that the binding is cut on the bias means that given the diagonal
weave of the fabric, it is much more malleable than fabric cut on the straight
grain, and will therefore bind a curved edge smoothly, and ensconce the raw
neckline, for a flawless finish.
Making your own bias binding may seem daunting, but trust us, its as simple as
cutting a strip of fabric (using the pattern pieces provided, and paying special
attention to the grainline) and going through the following simple steps to
attach it. Homemade binding is not limited to the often poor selection of
colours and fabrics available for sale, so you can either make your binding to
perfectly match your main fabric and/or panel, or you could go for something
entirely different to make a feature out of it!

Binding your neckline and armholes


Were going to start by binding the neckline. Turn your top inside out and lay it
down with the back piece facing you.
C

Begin by marking the centre back of your top with a pin.


Starting just to the left of the centre back point of the neckline, begin pinning
the binding, right side of the binding facing the wrong side of your top, all along
the neckline. Stop when you get to just right of the centre back point. This
little gap weve left at the centre back will help us when it comes to closing
the binding.

Stitch the binding to the neckline with a 1/4 or 6mm from the raw edge.
Remember to leave that gap!
Now with right sides of the binding together, hold the two ends against the gap
along the neckline to figure out where to join them in order to perfectly cover
the neckline. Pin the ends of the binding at this point.

Stitch the binding ends together at the marked point, trim the excess and
press the seam open.
It will now be easy to stitch the remainder of the binding down onto the
neckline, closing that gap at centre back.

Binding your neckline and armholes continued


Press the binding up.

Now turn your top to the right side, and were going to press the remaining raw
edge of the binding in by 1/4 or 6mm.
Now fold and press the binding in again, this time along the raw edge of the
neckline, pinning it into place as you go.
Carefully topstitch the binding into place from the right side of your top,
getting as close as you can to the loose folded edge of the binding.

Now repeat this process for the armholes, starting just to the right of the side
seams in order to match the binding seam with the side seam.
Aaaaaand, phew youre done!

Hemming
D

The flattering tab hem featured on the Polly Top requires just a smidge more
care and attention than a regular straight hem, as were dealing with curves
here This technique can be applied to the hemming of any curve, and is
especially useful for hemming circle skirts.
First of all, sew a line of machine stitches 5/8 or 15mm from the raw edge,
all along the hemline. Not only will this act as a guideline when we come to
pressing it in, but the stitches will also help to ease in the curve and create a
perforated line making the folding and pressing process easier too.
Fold in and press along the stitched line, snipping into the excess hem
allowance when you get to the side seams if you find that your fabric is pulling.
Now fold in the hem again and press, pinning the hem into place as you go.

Topstitch the hem from the wrong side, 1/2 or 12mm from the edge.
Ummm Congratulations, you did it!

1A

Test
Square
4 x 4

2A

1A

1A

1B

2B

1C
1B
1B

/ UK
20

/ UK
18

US 16

US 14

US 12
/ UK
16
US 10
/ UK
14
US 8
/
U
K
12
U
S
6
/ UK
10
US 4
/
U
K
8
US 2
/ UK
6

2C

1C

1C

1D

Love what you made?


Well, show us! Post your photos
in any of these online spaces so
we can admire your creations.

F facebook.com/ByHandLondon
T @byhandlondon
P pinterest.com/byhandlondon
I @byhandlondon

Notes

2D

10

1D

1D

US 16 / UK 20

US 14 / UK 18

US 12 / UK 16

US 10 / UK 14

US 8 / UK 12

US 6 / UK 10

US 4 / UK 8

US 2 / UK 6

2E

11

2A
3A
US 16 / UK 20

US 14 / UK 18

US 12 / UK 16

US 10 / UK 14

US 8 / UK 12
US 6 / UK 10
US 4 / UK 8
US 2 / UK 6

P o lly
To p
N e c k li n e
b in d in g

Cut 1
4A

E
12

13
4B
US 16 / UK 20

US 14 / UK 18
US 12 / UK 16

US 10 / UK 14

Place on fold

US 8 / UK 12
US 6 / UK 10
US 4 / UK 8
US 2 / UK 6

3A

A
Fr o n
Cu t 1

Po l
3A

3B
2B

2C
3B

3B

3C

o lly T o p
o n t p ie c e
t 1 o n f o ld
K 12
US 8 / U
K 10
US 6 / U

K8
US 4 / U

K6
US 2 / U

4C

14

2D

3D
3C

US 16 /

UK 14

UK 16

UK 18

UK 20

US 14 /

US 12 /

US 10 /

4D

4D

15

2E
3D

P o lly
To p

3D

A r m h o le
b in d in g

Cu t 1 p a i r

Gr

lin

ain

4E
4E

16

E
nl
in
e

5A

Gr
ai

4A

K6
US 2 / U

US 4 / UK 8

US 6 / UK 10

US 8 / UK 12

14
US 10 / UK

6A
K 16
US 12 / U

6A

17

4B
5A

5A

5B

6B
6B

18

4C
5B

5B

5C

6C
6C

19

4D
5D

5C

6D
6D

20

4E
5D

5D

6E
6E

21

K 16
US 12 / U

6A
US 14 / UK 18

US 16 / UK 20

7A

8A
Place on fold

8A

22

6B

7A

7A

7B

P o lly T o p
B a c k p ie c e
Cu t 1 o n f o l d

C
8B
8B

23

6C

7C
7B
7B

US 16 / UK 20

US 14 / UK 18

US 12 / UK 16

US 10 / UK 14

US 8 / UK 12

US 6 / UK 10

US 4 / UK 8
US 2 / UK 6

8C

8C

24

6D

US

US

UK

UK

4/

US

6/

US

UK

8/

US

10

UK

12

0/

US

UK

/
12

14

UK

4
S1

16

K
/ U

18

7C

US

16 /

UK

20

7D

US 16 / UK 20

US 14 / UK 18

US 12 / UK 16

US 10 / UK 14

US 8 / UK 12
US 6 / UK 10

US 4 / UK 8
US 2 / UK 6

8D
8D

25

6E

7D

7D

8E
8E

26

27
US 4 / UK 8

10A
10A

US 2 / UK 6

Place on fold

9A
8A

8B

9B

9A

9A

10B
10B

28

8C

9B

9C

9B

10C
10C

29

9C

8D

P o lly T o p
Fr o n t p an e l
Cu t 1 o n f o l d

9D

Place on fold

10D
10D

30

8E

9D

9D

10E
10E

31

32
11A
US 16 / UK 20

US 14 / UK 18

US 12 / UK 16

US 10 / UK 14

US 8 / UK 12

US 6 / UK 10

US 4 / UK 8

10A

10B

11A

11B

33

10C

11B

11B

11C

34

10D

11C

11D

35

10E

K 20
US 16 / U

K 18
US 14 / U

K 16
US 12 / U
14
US 10 / UK
US 8 / UK 12
10
US 6 / UK
K8
US 4 / U
US 2 / UK 6

11D

11D

36

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