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Polly Top
Aloha!
What we love most about sewing at By Hand London HQ is the power it gives you over
your personal style. But, theres more! The other thing we really enjoy is the fact that
were developing a skill. We dig the internet, but nothing beats some good offline fun.
Sewing is the perfect creative outlet and to get the most out of it, here are just three
simple steps to follow when starting a new project:
1 Workspace
2 Tools
3S
izing
Check
youve got all
the tools you need.
Contents
Tools, supplies and sizing
Layplans
Test square
Polly Top
A woven tank top with clean lines
and a tab hem, Polly features a
contrast panel at the front allowing
for endless colour and fabric
combinations, as well as shaping
the bust without the need for
darts. Simple and quick to make,
but dont let that fool you; The Polly
Top provides just the right amount
of challenge, encouraging you to
hone your skills sewing curves and
making your own bias tape to bind
the neckline and armholes.
Your fabric
Printer
Pins
A4 paper
Tape measure
Sellotape
Paper scissors
Matching thread
Dress makers shears
Overlocker/serger (optional)
FRONT
RECOMMENDED FABRICS
Pollys a pretty flexible gal so have a go making her up in any of the following.light to medium
weight wovens such as cotton lawn, quilting, voile, shirting, poplin, batiste, broderie, flannel,
lace; drapey fabrics such as silk crepe de chine, silk charmeuse, chiffon, habotai, rayon, wool
crepe; even knits such as ponte, double knit and viscose jersey.
4/8
6/10
8/12
10/14
12/16
14/18
16/20
33in
8334cm
34in
8614cm
35in
8834cm
37in
94cm
39in
99cm
42in
10612cm
45in
11414cm
26in
66cm
27in
6812cm
28in
71cm
30in
76cm
32in
8114cm
35in
89cm
38in
9612cm
36in
9112cm
37in
94cm
38in
9612cm
40in
10112cm
42in
10612cm
45in
11414cm
48in
122cm
36in
91cm
37in
94cm
39in
99cm
41in
104cm
44in
111cm
47in
119cm
36in
92cm
37in
95cm
39in
100cm
41in
105cm
44in
112cm
47in
120cm
41in
104cm
42in
106cm
44in
111cm
46in
116cm
49in
124cm
52in
132cm
20in
51cm
20in
52cm
21in
53cm
21in
53cm
Bust
32in
8114cm
Waist
25in
6312cm
BACK
Hips
35in
89cm
FInished bust
34in
86cm
35in
89cm
Finished waist
34in
87cm
35in
90cm
Finished hip
39in
99cm
40in
101cm
FABRIC REQUIRED
19in
49cm
19in
50cm
20in
50cm
20in
50cm
45 & 60
ALL SIZES
2.8 M
3 YDS
Layplans
Lay your pattern pieces onto your fabric according to the diagrams. Begin by laying down the pieces that belong on the fold,
being sure to pay attention to the grainline. Be sure to snip all notches and transfer all markings onto your fabric with tailors
chalk. Please note that we have included a standard 5/8 inch or 15mm seam allowance on all our patterns.
FRONT
0.6m
0.6yds
D
D
1m
1yd
D
E
1.3m
1.3yds
BACK
C
D
D
E
1m
1yd
PATTERN
KEY
A
Front piece
Front panel
Back piece
Armhole binding
Neckline binding
1.8m
2yds
Right Side
Wrong Side
US 12
/
U
K
16
US
1
0
/ UK
14
US 8
/ UK
12
US 6
/ UK
10
US 4
/ UK
8
US 2
/ UK
6
1B
1C
1C
1D
UK 20
1B
US 16
/
1A
UK 18
1A
US 14
/
Cut away excess paper around the border and then lay out your sheets, matching numbers and letters. Carefully tape
together and finally either trace or cut around your size.
1D
Test
Square
US 16 / UK 20
2B
2C
US 14 / UK 18
US 12 / UK 16
/ UK
20
/ UK
18
/ UK
16
US 16
/ UK
14
US 14
US 12
US 10
US 8
/ UK
12
US 6
/ UK
10
US 4
/ UK
8
US 2
/ UK
6
US 10 / UK 14
2B
2C
US 8 / UK 12
US 6 / UK 10
US 4 / UK 8
US 2 / UK 6
3A
2A
2B
2A
3A
2B
3A
3A
3B
2C
2D
2E
2C
2D
2E
3B
3C
3C
3D
3B
3B
3C
3C
P o lly
To p
3D
US 16 / UK 20
A r m h o le
b in d in g
US 14 / UK 18
Cu t 1 p a i r
US 12 / UK 16
US 10 / UK 14
P o lly T o p
US 8 / UK 12
US 6 / UK 10
UK 18
UK 20
US 14 /
US 16 /
UK 14
UK 16
6
US 2 / UK
8
US 4 / UK
12
US 8 / UK
10
US 6 / UK
US 10 /
US 12 /
F r o n t p ie c e
Cu t 1 o n f o l d
Place on fold
US 4 / UK 8
US 2 / UK 6
in
ainl
Gr
US 8 / UK 12
US 6 / UK 10
US 4 / UK 8
US 2 / UK 6
P o lly
To p
US 10 / UK 14
US 12 / UK 16
US 14 / UK 18
US 16 / UK 20
N e c k li n e
b in d in g
Cut 1
4A
4B
4A
4B
5A
5B
4C
4D
4C
4D
5B
4E
4E
5D
5D
Gr
ai
nl
in
5A
5C
5C
6
US 2 / UK
US 4 / UK 8
US 6 / UK 10
US 8 / UK 12
14
US 10 / UK
6A
6B
6C
6B
6C
6D
6E
6D
6E
K 16
US 12 / U
6A
US 14 / UK 18
US 16 / UK 20
US
US
UK
6/
US
UK
8/
US
10
12
UK
10
US
UK
12
US
7A
7A
7B
7B
7C
UK
14
16
/ UK
US
16 /
18
UK
20
7D
7D
US 12 / UK 16
US 8 / UK 12
US 6 / UK 10
US 4 / UK 8
8D
8E
8D
8E
P o lly T o p
Fr o n t p an e l
Cu t 1 o n f o l d
B
9A
9D
Place on fold
US 8 / UK 12
US 6 / UK 10
US 4 / UK 8
US 2 / UK 6
9A
9D
US 10 / UK 14
US 12 / UK 16
US 2 / UK 6
10B
10C
10D
10E
10B
10C
10D
10E
US 4 / UK 8
US 6 / UK 10
US 8 / UK 12
US 16 / UK 20
US 10 / UK 14
US 8 / UK 12
10
US 6 / UK
8
US 4 / UK
US 2 / UK 6
14
US 10 / UK
16
US 12 / UK
18
US 14 / UK
20
US 16 / UK
US 12 / UK 16
US 14 / UK 18
US 16 / UK 20
10A
US 14 / UK 18
10A
11A
11A
5A
11B
5A
11B
11C
11C
11D
11D
4B
4C
4B
4C
5B
5B
5C
5C
UK 16
9C
UK 14
9C
12
US 8 / UK
10
US 6 / UK
US 2 / UK 6
US 12 /
US 10 / UK 14
US 10 /
F r o n t p ie c e
Cu t 1 o n f o l d
US 16 / UK 20
US 14 / UK 18
6
US 2 / UK
9B
14
8
US 4 / UK
8C
US 14 / UK 18
Place on fold
8C
8B
US 16 / UK 20
US 4 / UK 8
US 2 / UK 6
8B
9B
US 6 / UK 10
8A
US 8 / UK 12
8A
US 10 / UK 14
US 12 / UK 16
P o lly T o p
B a c k p ie c e
Cu t 1 o n f o l d
7C
P o lly T o p
UK
4/
US
Place on fold
e
g
Lay out your front piece, right side facing down. Now lay the panel, also right
side facing down, into the corresponding space of the front piece.
Carefully pinch the two raw edges together, pinning the notches first, then
pinning the rest of the panel into place. Remember your 5/8 or 15mm seam
allowance, and go slowly around the curves, easing the fabric as you go.
Press the excess seam allowance towards the centre front, and finish either by
trimming the excess with pinking shears or overlock/serge.
TIP
If youre struggling with the curve try to start sewing at the centre front, and
stitch down each side of the panel one by one. This prevents the fabric moving
as you ease the curves at the corners.
Lay out the front and back pieces of your top, right sides
together, and pin the shoulders.
B
TIP
Its a good idea to clip the excess seam allowance at the curve of the side
seams in order to let the top hang just right.
Bias binding
Bias binding is the perfect way to finish the neckline and armholes of a top like
this. The fact that the binding is cut on the bias means that given the diagonal
weave of the fabric, it is much more malleable than fabric cut on the straight
grain, and will therefore bind a curved edge smoothly, and ensconce the raw
neckline, for a flawless finish.
Making your own bias binding may seem daunting, but trust us, its as simple as
cutting a strip of fabric (using the pattern pieces provided, and paying special
attention to the grainline) and going through the following simple steps to
attach it. Homemade binding is not limited to the often poor selection of
colours and fabrics available for sale, so you can either make your binding to
perfectly match your main fabric and/or panel, or you could go for something
entirely different to make a feature out of it!
Stitch the binding to the neckline with a 1/4 or 6mm from the raw edge.
Remember to leave that gap!
Now with right sides of the binding together, hold the two ends against the gap
along the neckline to figure out where to join them in order to perfectly cover
the neckline. Pin the ends of the binding at this point.
Stitch the binding ends together at the marked point, trim the excess and
press the seam open.
It will now be easy to stitch the remainder of the binding down onto the
neckline, closing that gap at centre back.
Now turn your top to the right side, and were going to press the remaining raw
edge of the binding in by 1/4 or 6mm.
Now fold and press the binding in again, this time along the raw edge of the
neckline, pinning it into place as you go.
Carefully topstitch the binding into place from the right side of your top,
getting as close as you can to the loose folded edge of the binding.
Now repeat this process for the armholes, starting just to the right of the side
seams in order to match the binding seam with the side seam.
Aaaaaand, phew youre done!
Hemming
D
The flattering tab hem featured on the Polly Top requires just a smidge more
care and attention than a regular straight hem, as were dealing with curves
here This technique can be applied to the hemming of any curve, and is
especially useful for hemming circle skirts.
First of all, sew a line of machine stitches 5/8 or 15mm from the raw edge,
all along the hemline. Not only will this act as a guideline when we come to
pressing it in, but the stitches will also help to ease in the curve and create a
perforated line making the folding and pressing process easier too.
Fold in and press along the stitched line, snipping into the excess hem
allowance when you get to the side seams if you find that your fabric is pulling.
Now fold in the hem again and press, pinning the hem into place as you go.
Topstitch the hem from the wrong side, 1/2 or 12mm from the edge.
Ummm Congratulations, you did it!
1A
Test
Square
4 x 4
2A
1A
1A
1B
2B
1C
1B
1B
/ UK
20
/ UK
18
US 16
US 14
US 12
/ UK
16
US 10
/ UK
14
US 8
/
U
K
12
U
S
6
/ UK
10
US 4
/
U
K
8
US 2
/ UK
6
2C
1C
1C
1D
F facebook.com/ByHandLondon
T @byhandlondon
P pinterest.com/byhandlondon
I @byhandlondon
Notes
2D
10
1D
1D
US 16 / UK 20
US 14 / UK 18
US 12 / UK 16
US 10 / UK 14
US 8 / UK 12
US 6 / UK 10
US 4 / UK 8
US 2 / UK 6
2E
11
2A
3A
US 16 / UK 20
US 14 / UK 18
US 12 / UK 16
US 10 / UK 14
US 8 / UK 12
US 6 / UK 10
US 4 / UK 8
US 2 / UK 6
P o lly
To p
N e c k li n e
b in d in g
Cut 1
4A
E
12
13
4B
US 16 / UK 20
US 14 / UK 18
US 12 / UK 16
US 10 / UK 14
Place on fold
US 8 / UK 12
US 6 / UK 10
US 4 / UK 8
US 2 / UK 6
3A
A
Fr o n
Cu t 1
Po l
3A
3B
2B
2C
3B
3B
3C
o lly T o p
o n t p ie c e
t 1 o n f o ld
K 12
US 8 / U
K 10
US 6 / U
K8
US 4 / U
K6
US 2 / U
4C
14
2D
3D
3C
US 16 /
UK 14
UK 16
UK 18
UK 20
US 14 /
US 12 /
US 10 /
4D
4D
15
2E
3D
P o lly
To p
3D
A r m h o le
b in d in g
Cu t 1 p a i r
Gr
lin
ain
4E
4E
16
E
nl
in
e
5A
Gr
ai
4A
K6
US 2 / U
US 4 / UK 8
US 6 / UK 10
US 8 / UK 12
14
US 10 / UK
6A
K 16
US 12 / U
6A
17
4B
5A
5A
5B
6B
6B
18
4C
5B
5B
5C
6C
6C
19
4D
5D
5C
6D
6D
20
4E
5D
5D
6E
6E
21
K 16
US 12 / U
6A
US 14 / UK 18
US 16 / UK 20
7A
8A
Place on fold
8A
22
6B
7A
7A
7B
P o lly T o p
B a c k p ie c e
Cu t 1 o n f o l d
C
8B
8B
23
6C
7C
7B
7B
US 16 / UK 20
US 14 / UK 18
US 12 / UK 16
US 10 / UK 14
US 8 / UK 12
US 6 / UK 10
US 4 / UK 8
US 2 / UK 6
8C
8C
24
6D
US
US
UK
UK
4/
US
6/
US
UK
8/
US
10
UK
12
0/
US
UK
/
12
14
UK
4
S1
16
K
/ U
18
7C
US
16 /
UK
20
7D
US 16 / UK 20
US 14 / UK 18
US 12 / UK 16
US 10 / UK 14
US 8 / UK 12
US 6 / UK 10
US 4 / UK 8
US 2 / UK 6
8D
8D
25
6E
7D
7D
8E
8E
26
27
US 4 / UK 8
10A
10A
US 2 / UK 6
Place on fold
9A
8A
8B
9B
9A
9A
10B
10B
28
8C
9B
9C
9B
10C
10C
29
9C
8D
P o lly T o p
Fr o n t p an e l
Cu t 1 o n f o l d
9D
Place on fold
10D
10D
30
8E
9D
9D
10E
10E
31
32
11A
US 16 / UK 20
US 14 / UK 18
US 12 / UK 16
US 10 / UK 14
US 8 / UK 12
US 6 / UK 10
US 4 / UK 8
10A
10B
11A
11B
33
10C
11B
11B
11C
34
10D
11C
11D
35
10E
K 20
US 16 / U
K 18
US 14 / U
K 16
US 12 / U
14
US 10 / UK
US 8 / UK 12
10
US 6 / UK
K8
US 4 / U
US 2 / UK 6
11D
11D
36