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EMULIUM 22

Elegant Paradox

Emulium 22 January 2007

EMULIUM 22
Elegant Paradox
O/W non ionic emulsifier (patent)
Derived from Behenic acid
9 INCI: Tribehenin PEG-20 Esters

Technical advantages
Vanishing and refined textures

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Behenic Chain: 22 Carbons


Excellent Tolerance profile
 Sensitive skin

High melting point


 Excellent stability

Substantivity
 Availability of active ingredients

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Technical advantages
Wide compatibility
Flexible viscosity
Fineness of emulsions and thixotropy
 Optimal dispersion

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Wide compatibility
Oils (up to 40%)
9 Silicones, Softcutol line
9 Vegetable oils and fatty acid esters
9 Mineral oil and substitutes

Active ingredients (Zn, DHA, AHA, )


Organic and inorganic sunscreens
pH: 3 8

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Flexible viscosity

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Lotion

Supple cream

Thick cream

2-3 %

3-5%

46%

9 Gelling agents recommended (stabilization of final pH)


9 Consistency agents recommended in thick creams

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Formulation
Direct emulsification Hot process
 Oil phase into water phase at T > 75C

High shear during emulsification (rotor-stator


recommended)

Moderate agitation during cooling down


Practical HLB: 10.5

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Fineness & Thixotropy


Fine droplet size: 1 m
Thixotropic behavior
Thixotropy (Pa.s-1)

Base
PEG-100 Stearate and Glyceryl Stearate
PEG-100 Stearate and Glyceryl Stearate +
thixotropic agent

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5 375
14 171
82 946

9 White and bright formulations


9 Improved spreadability
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Optimal dispersion
Emulsifier
Cetearyl Alcohol and Ceteareth-20
(3% with gelling agent)
Cetyl phosphate
Emulium 22
(3% with gelling agent)
Emulium 22
(6%, no gelling agent)

SPF (in vivo)


6.9

9.7

11.3

9 Natural SPF Booster and enhanced dispersion of pigments


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Sensorial Identity
Comparison with Emulium Delta

Emulsion A

Emulsion B

Emulsifier at 6%

Emulium 22

Emulium Delta

Oil phase

20 %

20 %

Aqueous phase

74 %

74 %

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Sensorial identity
Emulium 22 vs Emulium Delta

brightness*
9

tacky afterfeel

consistency*

7
6
5

film residue*

picking*

4
3
2
1
0

absorbency*

texture*

film thickness*

creaminess*

melting*

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spreadability

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Elegant paradox
Sensorial profile
9Brightness, creamy and rich appearance
9Evanescent feel (light and thin)
9Easy spreading
9 Mat finish
9 Excellent pick up
9 Rapid absorbency
9 Non greasy, non tacky after-feel

PARADOX BETWEEN APPEARANCE AND FEEL


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Applications
Skin Care
9 Day cream, elegant skin care
9 Greasy and sensitive skin

Sun Care
9 Ideal to boost SPF, easy spread

Make-up
9 Complexion enhancer, foundation

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Conclusion
Emulium 22
9 Enhanced affinity towards skin thanks to the substantivity of
the behenic chain (C22)
9 Improved heat stability thanks to the ability of C22 to structure
the emulsion
9 Optimal dispersion thanks to extreme fineness of emulsion and
thixotropic behaviour
9 The unexpected combination of rich appearance and light
texture

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Rich

Texture Mapping
Emulium
Kappa

Emollients
Emulium 22

Emulfree

Light

TOUCH

Apifil

Fluid
Emulium 22 January 2007

Hydrolactol
70

TEXTURE

Emulium Delta

Emulfree

Creamy
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And if a cosmetic was a


textile?

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And if a cosmetic was a textile?

CASHMERE
Ultimate luxury
Softness
Quality
Sensuality
Class
Banana Republic

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And if a cosmetic was a textile?

A CASHMERE cosmetic
Top quality ingredients
Luxurious appearance
Powder soft
Comfortable
Creamy
Natural

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And if a cosmetic was a textile?

CASHMERE Ingredients
Emulium 22

Fine texture,
refined feel, subtle veil

Softcutol O

Delicate softness

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