Standard Operating Procedures

Under Armour Sewing Guidelines

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2.0
Sewing Guidelines
Julie Block; Updated by Lisa Struble
1.27.12
Julie Block/Greg Branch/Lisa Struble
1.27.12
6/18/12; Updated 11/19/12

Purpose: To ensure sewing standards are met across all factories.

Procedures: The below steps must be followed on all garments unless otherwise stated.
A. Please follow for all genders:
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All instructions refer to "Garment-As-Worn"

Design lines/ Details are proportionately graded unless otherwise stated
Garment Symmetry is Expected
No Broken Stitches
All Measurements Must be Within Tolerance
Minimum Stretch Measurements Must be Achieved
No Roping Stitches
No Skipped Stitches
1/8" Raw edge on all compression hems
No raw edge on Loose/Regular/Semi Fitted/Fitted knits or woven hems unless otherwise stated
Horizontal seams should face down or to the back
Vertical seam allowance should be toward back panel
For all snaps, male to female ends must be properly aligned for correct functionality
Lightly press necklines; waistbands, pocket openings and hems for all wovens
Lightly steam necklines; armholes, pocket openings and hems for all knits
Collars without Embroidery start and stop Left Side Wearing at HPS; raglan styles should start and stop at
left raglan back seam
Collars with Embroidery start and stop Right Side Wearing at HPS; raglan styles should start and stop at right
raglan back seam
All Bottom Hem Operations start and stop Left Side Wearing - with 1/4"-3/8" overlap
Open necklines should be sewn with a lockstitch (#301)
Closed necklines should be sewn with a chainstitch (#401)

B. Please follow for Womens/Girls garments:

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Womens plackets and closures should be right over left

1/8" gauge on women's and girls hem sleeve/bottom unless otherwise stated
1/2" turn on women's and girls hem sleeve/bottom unless otherwise stated
1/4" Vertical back tack (#301) at overlap seam for womens and girls on non compression garments; Vertical
bartack (#101 or #304) for compression garments

C. Please follow for Mens/Boys garments:

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Mens plackets and closures should be left over right

1/4" gauge on men's and boys hem sleeve/bottom unless otherwise stated
3/4" turn on men's and boys hem sleeve/bottom unless otherwise stated
1/2" Vertical back tack (#301) at overlap seam for mens and boys on non compression garments; Vertical
bartack (#101 or #304) for compression garments

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Standard Operating Procedures

Under Armour Sewing Guidelines

D. Bartack (#101 or #304) Guideline

1. Waistbands: Horizontal bartack at stitch overlap for all waistband with multi needle chainstitch
2. Hems: Vertical bartack to secure stitch ends for all overlapping chainstitch and coverstitch on hems (slv and
bottom) for compression garments.
3. Pockets: Bartack at each end of pocket opening
4. Zipper:
a. Bartack at top and bottom of zippers
b. Bartack at ends of exposed half zipper
c. Horizontal bartack at top of zipper for a bottom leg zipper
5. Placket: Horizontal bartack at placket opening (for specific polo styles only)
6. Slits/Vents: Bartack at top of side slit for all side slit/vents
7. Crotch: Horizontal bartack on crotch inseam
8. Center front fly:
a. Horizontal bartack at bottom of fly opening
b. Vertical bartack above zipper slider to secure (at the curve of the j on the fly seam)
9. Belt loops: bartack top and bottom of belt loop
10. Drawcord:
a. For youth styles: vertical bartack waistband drawcord at center back to secure
b. For mens/womens styles: single needle tack (#301) waistband drawcord at center back to secure
c. Flat drawcord with no tips double fold with single needle tack (#301)
d. Bartack to secure drawcord @ top of hood: (2) vertical bartacks for 3pc hoods; (1) vertical bartack
for 2 pc hoods.
11. Cord lock: Bartack webbing for cord lock

E. Tacking (typically using fabric strip or tape follow approved sample)

1. Tops with lining -Tacking at shoulder (non raglan seam); armpit; forearm (underarm)
2. Hood with lining with insert -Tacking at left insert at highest point
3. Hod with lining without insert -Tacking at center hood at highest point
4. Bottoms with lining -Tacking at front rise; back rise; crotch; calf at inseam (outerwear bottoms only)
Please send any feedback to Lisa Struble, Vice President of Apparel Development (lstruble@underarmour.com)

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