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Author(s): Mansour Rym
Article title: Dyeing properties of cationized and non-cationized cotton fabrics dyed with Vitis vinifera L. leaves extract
Article no: TJTI 1046289
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The Journal of The Textile Institute, 2015

http://dx.doi.org/10.1080/00405000.2015.1046289

Dyeing properties of cationized and non-cationized cotton fabrics dyed with Vitis vinifera L.
leaves extract
Mansour Ryma*, Mhenni Farouka and Ezzili M. Bechirb
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Facult de sciences de Monastir, Unit de recherche Chimie applique et environnement UR13ES63, Monastir, Tunisie; bCBBC
Technoparc Borj Cidria, Hammam Lif, Tunisia
(Received 2 September 2014; accepted 23 April 2015)

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This study lays bare two main objectives. The rst is to determine the amount of anthocyanins in the leaves of Vitis
vinifera L. by the spectrophotometric method and the second is to dye cationized and non-cationized cotton fabrics with
the V. vinifera L. leaves aqueous extract. We have thoroughly investigated the effects of dye bath pH and temperature on
the dyeing proprieties of the aforementioned fabrics. The color strength (K/S value) of dyed cationized cotton fabrics (K/
S = 12) has been better than the non-cationized ones (K/S = 4). Experimental results show that the fastness properties of
dyed cationized cotton fabrics range from average to good. We nd that the cationization of cotton fabrics has largely
improved the dyeability and fastness properties of cotton fabrics dyed with V. vinifera L. leaves aqueous extract.
Keywords: Vitis vinifera L. leaves; anthocyanins; cationized cotton; dyeing; fastness

Introduction

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The use of plants, seashells, and coccid insects to create

color is common to all civilizations (Adeel, Ali, & Zsila,
2009). With the advent of widely available and cheaper
synthetic dyes in 1856; the use of natural dyes with poor
to moderate wash and light fastness declined drastically
and was replaced by more moderate to excellent color
fastness properties of synthetic materials. Yet, it is
primordial to note that the revival of natural dyes was
mainly due to the hazardous and cancerogenic nature of
synthetic dyes.
Vitis vinifera L. is a woody winter-deciduous climber
with tendrils attaching to surrounding plants. It is
generally believed to be native to southwestern Asia.
The leaves are alternating, palmately lobed, 520 cm
long and broad. The leaves of V. vinifera L. are rich in
tannins, avonoids, procyanidins and also contain
organic acids, lipids, enzymes, and vitamins
(Bombardelli & Morazzonni, 1995; Hmamouchi, Lahlou,
Es-Sa, & Agoumi, 1998). Vine leaves turn red in
autumn and their ushing intensities depend on the
period of collection (Felicio, Santos, & Gonalez, 2001).
The main coloring agents in V. vinifera L. leaves are
anthocyanins: monoglucoside cyanidin, monoglucoside
peonidin, and monoglucoside malvidin (Monagas,
Garrido, Bartolom, & Gmez-Cordovs, 2004; Rym,
Bechir, & Farouk, 2013). Moreover, anthocyanins
production in V. vinifera L. leaves increases in response
to surging sugar concentrations in autumn. In this work,
V. vinifera L leaves were collected, extracted with water,
*Corresponding address. Email: rymmansour2004@yahoo.fr
2015 The Textile Institute

and studied to explore their potential applications as

natural dyes in textile industry.
Generally, leaves containing primarily anthocyanins
appear red, while those with large amounts of both
anthocyanins and carotenoids have orange color.
However, leaves with carotenoids, and little or no
anthocyanins are yellow. Anthocyanins contain
anthocyanidins (or aglycons) which are basic functional
chemical structures in anthocyanins (Bombardelli &
Morazzonni, 1995). When anthocyanidins are bonded to
a sugar moiety, they are known as cyanidins. Cyanidins
are important coloring components of V. vinifera L
leaves (Figure 1). Cotton can be easily dyed, but the
cellulosedye bond is not very strong. Natural cellulose
bers are negatively charged because of the presence of
carboxyl and hydroxyl groups (Izabela & Wei, 2004).
Using commercial cationic agents in the pretreatment of
cotton may enhance dye absorption and can not only
increase the dyeing color strength but also improve wash
fastness (Burkinshaw & Gotsopoulos, 1996). Cationic
modication is a method that has been employed in
order to change the surface charge of cellulosic bers
(Chen, Zhao, & Wang, 2004; Kim & Sun, 2002; Rong
& Feng, 2006; Wu & Kuga, 2006). In these studies, a
variety of cationic agents with amino, ammonium,
sulfonium, phosphonium, and other groups have been
employed to modify cellulose fabrics, the high cost, the
fabric yellowing and toxicity of these substances have
prevented their industrial applications. The 3-chloro-2hydroxypropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride (CHPTAC)

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weave (plain weave and weight, 150 g m2), thickness
was 0.261 cm mm1, number of yarns cm1 in warp
direction was 43 and in weft direction was 42. Before
dyeing, the fabric was treated with a solution containing
5 g L1 non-ionic detergent, at 50C for 30 min. Then,
the fabric was thoroughly rinsed with water and air dried
at room temperature.
Cationization of cotton with CHPTAC

Figure 1. Chemical structure of one of the color compositions

of V. vinifera L. leaves extract dye: Cyanidin-3-oglycoside.

is a reasonably cheap, reactive, and low-toxic chemical

which is probably a good cationic agent for the
modication of cellulosic bers (Liu, Yang, Zhang, Liu,
& Xiong, 2007). In short, the focus of this article is to
investigate the dyeing behavior of cationized and noncationized cotton with V. vinifera L. leaves aqueous
extract.
Materials and methods
V. vinifera L. leaves identication

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The V. vinifera L. Black Grenache leaves were collected

from Bir BouRagueba, a suburb in the city of Nabeul,
Tunisia. Bir BouRaguebas latitude is 1025 and its
longitude is 3637W. Leaves were lyophilized and
reduced to ne powder.

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Lyophilization

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The leaves were removed from the trees and

immediately put on ice. Major veins were removed with
a razor blade and discarded. The leaves were cut into
small pieces (2 cm2), frozen in liquid nitrogen, and
ground with a mortar and pestle. The powder was either
extracted immediately, or lyophilized, or oven dried at
40C or at 90C. The powder represents 90% of the V.
vinifera L. leaves amount.
Extraction
V. vinifera L. leaves are boiled in 100 mL of distilled
water for 60 min at the temperature of 95C at a bath
ratio of 1/20 (1 g of plant material extracted by 20 mL
of distilled water). The dye baths were ltrated and
cooled.

Desized, scoured, and bleached plain woven cotton

fabric was used in this work. The cationic agent
(CHPTAC)
3-chloro-2-hydroxypropyl
trimethyl
ammonium chloride is commercially available as a 65%
aqueous solution and was purchased from Fluka.
Reagent-grade NaOH crystals and hydrochloric acid
(HCl) were purchased from Fluka. Distilled water was
used throughout the experiments.

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Cationization of the cotton fabric

Cationized cotton was prepared by using CHPTAC to
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insert cationic groups on the surface of cotton bers.
The reaction of cationic agent with cotton in the
presence of alkaline catalyst yields cationic cotton
(Kevin, Hong, & Juan, 2007). In the exhaustion method, AQ5
at 30:1 liquor ratio, cationic agent solution was mixed
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with water to prepare a bath containing cationic agent
with 20% w/w ber samples. The samples were
introduced into the bath and, after 5 min dwell time, the
temperature was increased from ambient to 60C at 2
2.5C min1 and then held constant during the
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cationization process. The bath was well agitated during
the process. After that, 15% on weight of fabric, sodium
hydroxide (40 g L1) was added in three steps every
5 min, and after the last addition the mixture was
agitated for 10 min. At the end of the reaction, the
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samples were removed from the bath, rinsed several
times with water, and acidied with 1% acetic acid.
They were then again rinsed with water and dried at
ambient temperature.
Fourier transform infrared spectroscopic analysis

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Fourier transform infrared (FTIR) spectra were recorded

on a Nexus 470 FTIR Spectrometer, Nicolet Company,
USA, using potassium bromide disks. A total of 32
scans for each sample were taken with a resolution of
4 cm1, with a range of 4000400 cm1.

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The dyeing process

Characterization of the cotton fabrics
Commercially bleached cotton fabric with the following
specications was supplied from SITEX, Tunisia; plain

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Dyeing was performed by the exhaustion method using a

liquor ratio of 20:1, with the cotton fabric dyed in
laboratory
dyeing
machine
(Ahiba
Datacolor

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International, USA) at different pH values (28) and at

different temperatures (4595C). The pH values were
recorded with Eutech pH-meter instruments and adjusted
with acetic acids and dilute solution of sodium
hydroxide 0.1 N. The temperature was raised at constant
value (4595C) over 30 min and held at this level for
90 min. The dyeing was carried out in the laboratory
dyeing machine (Ahiba Datacolour International, USA).
Then, the dyed fabrics were removed, rinsed with water,
followed by a soaping step using 3 g L1 of a non-ionic
detergent (4-Nonylphenyl-polyethylene glycol non-ionic)
at 60C during 5 min. Finally, the fabric samples were
washed thoroughly with cold water, squeezed, and dried
at room temperature. The dyeing experiment was
performed in duplicate.
Evaluation of dyeing quality

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The reectance and the L, a*, b* values of the dyed

samples were measured with a Spectro Flash SF300
spectrophotometer (illuminant D65/10o observer) with
data.
Master 23 software (Datacolor International, USA).
Relative color strengths (K/S values) were determined
using the Kubelk and Munk equations.
The color yield (K/S) values were calculated by
Kubelka Munk equation (Kubelka & Munk, 1931):

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K 1  R2 1  R0 2


;
S
2R
2R0
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(1)

where R is the decimal fraction of the reectance of

dyed fabric, R0 is the decimal fraction of the reectance
of undyed fabric, K is the absorption coefcient and S is
the scattering coefcient, L* is corresponding to the
brightness (100 = white, 0 = black), a* is corresponding
to the red/green coordinate (positive sign = red, negative
sign = green), and b* is corresponding to the yellow/blue
coordinate (positive sign = yellow, negative sign = blue).
Fastnesses testing

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of water. The extraction was performed for

approximately 60 min at 95C. The amount of extracted
colored substances as a function of time was monitored
by photometry. Total anthocyanins content was
determined using the pH differential assay of Giusti et
Worlstad.
Absorbances
(A)
were
measured
photometrically in the range 350700 nm using a 10 mm
cuvette and CE 202 UVvisible diode array
spectrophotometer. Absorbances at 520 and 700 nm in
buffers at pH 1 and 4.5 were used to calculate the
concentration of dyes as cyaniding-3-glycoside from
Equation (2).
A A520 nm  A700 nmpH 1:0  A520 nm
 A700 nmpH 4:5:
ACY

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The dyed samples were evaluated according to NF and

ISO standard methods: ISO 105-X12: 2002 for color
fastness to rubbing; ISO 105-C10:2006 for color fastness
to washing, and ISO 105-B02:1994 for color fastness to
light.
Quantity of anthocyanins in V. vinifera L. (Black
Grenache) leaves by spectrophotometric method
A weighted amount of plant material was extracted with
distilled water in a beaker. In the standard procedure, the
mass of plant material/volume of liquid ratio was set at
1:20, i.e. 1 g of V. vinifera L. was extracted with 20 mL

A  MW  DF  103
:
el

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(2)
(3)

Monomeric anthocyanin pigment concentration in the

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extract was then calculated according to Equation (2).
The determined concentration can be transformed
into dye content in the plant material by multiplication
by a factor 20 (1 g of material extracted in 20 mL of
water).
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Here ACY is the monomeric anthocyanin pigment
concentration calculated as mg cyaniding-3-glycoside
L1 extract, MW is the molecular weight of cyandin-3glycoside (449.2 g mol1), = 26,900 M extinction
coefcient, in L mol1 cm1, for cyd-3-glu; and
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103 = factor for conversion from g to mg. DF = dilution
factor established in D; l = path length in cm (Lee et al.,
2005).
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Results and discussion
The anthocyanins concentration calculated, with
spectrophotometric method, in the 20 mL of extract is
191 mg L1 which is equal to 3.82 mg of 1 g of dry V.
vinifera L. leaves which correlated with HPLC analysis
results investigated in one of our studies. Therefore,
anthocyanins (presents the dyestuff) represents 0.38% of
dry V. vinifera L. leaves (Rym et al., 2013).

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FTIR analysis
FTIR spectra: the untreated (A) and treated (B), cotton AQ9
fabric with cationizing agent, are shown in Figure 2. The
treated cotton fabric (curve B) shows four absorption
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bands at 2918.79, 2850.04, 1430.17, and 1373.02 cm1
corresponding to the aliphatic CH stretching. A broad
absorption band with low intensity of the primary OH
stretching band of untreated cotton fabric at 3352.38 and
1032.71 cm1 is observed in spectrum (A). Furthermore,
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the absorption intensity of primary OH stretching

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M. Rym et al.
dyes containing many hydroxyl groups, it would interact
ionically with the protonated terminal amino groups of
cationized cotton bers at acidic pH via ion exchange
reaction. Thus, these kinds of interactions take place
together with ionic forces. This ionic attraction would
increase the dyeability of the ber as clearly shown in
Figure 3.

rint
p
r
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fo
no r onlin
o
M lou
co

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Effect of temperature

Figure 2. FTIR spectra: the untreated (A) and treated (B),

cotton fabric with cationizing agent CHPTAC.

narrow band at 3343.61 cm1 which is associated with a

band at 1033.05 cm1 is considerably increased in case
of the cationized fabric relative to the untreated cotton
fabric. The treated samples showed a characteristic peak
at 1199.67 cm1 due to CN stretching vibration.
Effect of pH

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Figure 3 shows that the pH values of the dye bath have

a considerable effect on the dyeability of cationized and
non-cationized cotton fabrics with V. vinifera L. extract.
Noting that, the pH of V. vinifera L. leaves extract itself
before pH adjustment is 4.6. It is clear that cationization
has improved the dyeability of the fabrics at pH 2 and
2.5 values. The acidic pH dye bath enhances the
dyeability of cotton fabric especially cationized one with
V. vinifera L. extract. The effect of dye bath pH can be
attributed to the correlation between dye structure and
cationized cotton ber. Since the V. vinifera L. leaves
extract contains anthocyanins which are water-soluble

As it is well recognized, the dye bath temperature plays

an important role in dyeing with natural dyes. A case in
point, the stability of the anthocyanin pigments largely
depends on temperature among other factors (Lee et al.,
2005). Table 1 shows the effect of the temperature of
dyeing on L*, a*, b* and K/S values of cationized and
non-cationized dyed cotton. When dyeing temperature
increased, the values of L* decreased and the values of
K/S increased. Thus, the highest value of L* and lowest
value of K/S showed lighter shades, while both the
lowest values of L* and the highest values of K/S
signify deeper shades of dyed samples. Positive a* and
positive b* represent red and yellow, respectively.
Therefore, samples dyed at 45C have higher value of
a* than those dyed at 95C. These results correlate with
red and brown shades of dyed fabrics, which could be
explained by the temperature effect on anthocyanins. As
it expected, the dye uptake of cationized cotton fabrics
(CC) is better than non-cationized ones (NCC) which is
may be due to, rst, the ber swelling effects that
enhance the dye diffusion. Second, it can be attributed to
the correlation between the dye structure and cationized
cotton bers. Since the anthocyanins act as an acid dye,
it would interact ionically with the protonated terminal
amino groups of the cationized cotton bers under acidic
medium (pH 4) via electrostatic dye attraction.

rint
p
r
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fo
no r onlin
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M lou
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Figure 3.

Effect of dye bath pH on the color strength of cationized and non-cationized cotton fabrics dyed at 95C.

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Table 1. Effect of the dyeing temperature on L, a*, b*, and depth of shades values (K/S) of dyed cationized and non-cationized
cotton fabrics dyed with V. vinifera L. leaves extract.
a*

b*

K/S

Temperatures

CC

NCC

CC

NCC

CC

NCC

CC

NCC

45
60
75
80
95

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17.5
15.8
15.2
14

1.34
2.44
4.25
2.18
0.84

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18.2
20
20.5
22

6.51
6.48
13.04
14.71
19.01

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43.5
42

87.34
85.86
81.39
76.02
75.02

5.6
6.7
7.7
10.6
12

1.8
2.6
3.3
3.7
4

CC: cationized cotton; NCC: non-cationized cotton; pH = 2.5.

Table 2.

Values of light, wash, and rubbing fastness of dyed cationized and non-cationized cotton fabrics, at T = 95C; pH = 3.
Rubbing
fastness

Wash fastness

Non-cationized cotton fabric

Cationized cotton fabric

Actate

Cotton

Nylon

PES

PAC

Wool

Light fastness

D*

W*

5
5

5
5

5
5

5
5

5
5

3/4
5

2
6

4
4

Fastness properties
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The light, wash, and rubbing fastness values of

cationized and non-cationized cotton fabrics dyed with V.
vinifera L. leaves aqueous extract are shown in Table 2.
The control sample shows good rubbing and wash
fastness properties of cationized dyed fabrics (3/45
units on the gray scale whereas 5 is the higher rating).
This result can be explained by the afnity of cationized
cotton ber to anthocyanins. The light fastness of
cationized cotton fabrics is good (6 units on the standard
blue scale whereas 8 is the highest rating) which is
better than those obtained with non-cationized cotton
fabric. The cationized cotton fabric dyed with V. vinifera
L. leaves extract shows higher color strength than the
non-cationized cotton fabric because cationized cotton
fabric contains more functional groups than the noncationized one. In fact, the cationization of cotton fabrics
enhances the good penetration of the color in the ber
matrix. The value results obtained (Table 1) illustrate
that non-cationized cotton shows a yellowish-brown
color; however, cationized cotton fabric shows redishbrown color. It can be concluded that cationized cotton
fabrics can be successfully dyed with V. vinifera L.
leaves
extract.
Anthocyanins
contain
phenolic
compounds. The anionically charged phenolic groups
could form an ionic bond with cationics (amino groups)
in the cationic cotton fabric.
Conclusion
The purpose of this study was to valorize the dyeing
properties of cationized cotton fabric dyed by V. vinifera

L. Leaves extract. Indeed, better K/S values were

observed for dyed cationized cotton fabrics compared to
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the results obtained of non-cationized ones. Even, at AQ10
lower dyeing time and temperature the dye uptake of
cationized cotton fabrics is better than non-cationized
ones dyed in higher temperature and time which could
obviously present the benet of the alternative process as
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it could save time and energy. As it showed in this
study, cationized cotton fabrics, dyed with V. vinifera L.
Leaves extract, have better fastness dyeing properties
than non-cationized ones.

Disclosure statement
No potential conict of interest was reported by the authors.

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References
Adeel, S., Ali, S., & Zsila, F. (2009). Dyeing of cotton fabric
using pomegranate (Punica granatum) aqueous extract.
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