SUBJECT: HISTORY OF JACKETS

21ST CENTURY- CONTEMPORARY FASHION

21st Century Menswear Jackets

General Trend
The Fall Winter 2013 collections saw a definite protagonist emerge: the coat. With
luxurious tailoring as an undercurrent which united all collections, the traditional
mens coat could not be missing. But is it traditional?

The winter coat, an epitome of the art of tailoring, and lasting companion of the discerning man
took over the runways during the FW13 fashion weeks. Historically revered as a tailoring
masterpiece and a contemporary must have, the mens coat appears in many forms this season. From
Tom Fords luxurious fur trimmed coats, to Canalis classic doublebreasted aair, even the
more fashion forward designers like Chris Van Assche and Comme des Garons have brought
forward their own version of the coat. Dolce&Gabbana, modern tailoring masters and mens
fashion trend setters created a collection which rotates around one of the strongest items on the
runway and in a mans wardrobe: the coat.

FW13
1 D&G
For FW13, Dolce&Gabbana have introduced a new fit for their tailored coats: the

Martini Dry. More figureskimming than the classic Martini, this fit translates well in double

breasted coats. They maintain their signature proportions, but with the new cut, theyre less
bulky. Pic: Double breasted and Sicily are peas in a pod accessorize with a classic corduroy flat
cap.

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For FW13, Dolce&Gabbana have

introduced a new fit for their tailored coats: the Martini Dry. More figure-skimming


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than the classic Martini, this fit translates well in double breasted coats. They
maintain their signature proportions, but with the new cut, theyre less bulky. Doublebreasted and Sicily are peas in a pod- accessorize with a classic corduroy flat cap.

SUBJECT: HISTORY OF JACKETS

21ST CENTURY- CONTEMPORARY FASHION

When looking back to the past, one fabric that cannot be ignored is the pin stripe. Back,

and stronger than ever the pin

stripe features heavily in the FW13 collections. This doublebreasted Martini Dry coat in wool

mix pin stripe felt embodies the main elements of the season. Contrast the stripes and channel
the oldy worldy gentleman by adding a silk polka dot pocket square.

When looking back to the past, one

fabric that cannot be ignored is the pin stripe. Back, and stronger than ever the pin
stripe features heavily in the FW13 collections. This double-breasted Martini Dry coat
2. Giorgio Armani
in wool mix pin stripe felt embodies the main elements of the season. Contrast the
stripes
andmaking
channelbomber
the oldy worldy
gentleman
by adding
a silk
polka
dot pocket
Armani revolutionized men's
suits,
jackets
out of leather
in the
70's,
which
up
square.
until then was never seen before.

He continued to oer unique

fabrics in unheard of ways, and also designed men's jackets that
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had a clean look that included

a looser feel and fit. Before this, men's suits tended to be
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tight and restrictive, so Armani's
suits were refreshing and well received. With the success of his
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men's jackets, Giorgio went on to make a tailored jacket for women as well.

In the past year, Armani suit sales have escalated. So much so, that they have reorganized the

selling floor to make room for more suiting. This season, Armanis suits speak to that with soft,
fluid shoulders and a not too serious look.

This design is loose and deconstructed but its a slim, neat silhouette nonetheless, sitting

on the shoulders and maintaining Armanis always tailored fit. While the three-button suit is still
the biggest seller, there is a new focus on one and two-buttons suits with narrow lapels.
Oering an open, inviting look, this is a contrast to the high, buttoned-up suits of seasons past.
What had been considered a traditional look is now equated with an ease of movement.

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TARVEEN KAUR & UPASNA NIDHI

SUBJECT: HISTORY OF JACKETS

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SUBJECT: HISTORY OF JACKETS

21ST CENTURY- CONTEMPORARY FASHION

3. Ralph Lauren
What does the Ralph Lauren customer appreciate? the finest fabrics and attention to

detail.

Dark suits in solids and neat patterns such as pinstripes exemplify the Purple Label

collection. Two and three-button styles are popular, with center or side vents and hacking

pockets. The emphasis on model treatment and luxurious fabric.

The Polo Tailored collection includes fine worsted wool, year round suits, as well

flannel cashmere blendes in solids and herringbones.

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SUBJECT: HISTORY OF JACKETS

21ST CENTURY- CONTEMPORARY FASHION

4. Christopher Bailey for Burberry

Designer Christopher Bailey, for their Spring 13 runway, turned the traditional slim-line

tailoring that has defined Burberry up a notch (or 10) by invigorating the clean,
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sophisticated lines with pops of metallic colour and bold prints.

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Overcoats shun
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through
in hues of vibrant pinks and blues, whilst shirts were a little more

subdued in neutralCA"'=,/+#(#*7&(+*',7%*($&(*7"#(,3(A$<'/&+(-$&D#(/&9(<07"#2(8*$0#+(#*$'+#(8"'"(/(
toned prints. However, the colourful bomberjackets were the real
winners and a must0$++0"(:,'"(#7<97"9($&(&"7+'/0(+,&"9(-'$&+#B(E,8"A"'2(+*"(=,0,7'370(
for every guy.
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SUBJECT: HISTORY OF JACKETS

21ST CENTURY- CONTEMPORARY FASHION

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