Beruflich Dokumente
Kultur Dokumente
PREFACE
Genius makes its observations in short hand; talent writes them out at length.
Christian Nevell Bovee
As mentioned by the above quotations observing and on site viewing are a very firm
base for learning. We learn a lot more by seeing the theories than
we read in books,
applied practically by the pros and by seeing how they actually put them to work.
If we mull over the significance of internship program then we will be able
to bare the facts that internship enhance ones practical loom towards work and
provide maximum chances for learning, which will obviously help out candidate in
the practical fields. In short internship plays a pivotal role in the future sensation &
stir of the candidate.
The effective system at NISHAT was a piece of art and to see it in working
process was a treat itself. NISHAT has fine and well defined organizational structure
working effectively.
In preparation of this Report we have tried our best to provide all possible
information about the operation, function and tasks of NISHAT in brief and
comprehensive form. It also includes a brief department work during internship. We
have also tried our best to use simple and easy words and language.
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HAJVERY UNIVERSITY LAHORE
Introduction
Textile Printing
Nishat Mills Limited started out as a weaving unit with 500 semi automatic
looms, later on 10,000 spindles were added, laying the foundation of nations
biggest textile composite project. Today, Nishat Mills Limited is largest
vertically integrated unit of Pakistan. It comprises of 173,000 spindles, 528
state of the art shuttles-less and air jet looms, a processing capacity of three
million meters and stitching capacity of more than one million meters per
month, supported by a power generation plant with a capacity of 33.6 MW.
Nishat Mills Limited is awarded the President of Pakistans Trophy for
Exports, being a Pakistans largest exporter in any category. Nishat Mills is
also certified with ISO 9001 certification and these awards reflect the quality
of service available under one roof.
Since its inception in 1951, the group has grown from a cotton house into a
premier business group. After almost half a century of undaunted success, the
group has its roots firmly planted into four core businesses i.e. Textiles,
Banking, Cement and Power Generation.
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HAJVERY UNIVERSITY LAHORE
Textile Printing
Nishats Founder
A man of vision, courage and integrity, Mian
Mohammad Yahya was born in 1918 in Chiniot. In
1947 when he was running a leather business in
Calcutta, he witnessed the momentous changes that
swept the Indo-Pak sub-continent and culminated in
the emergence of Pakistan. Like many of his contemporaries, he also migrated
to the new country to help establish its industrial base; his is a story of success
through sheer hard work and an undaunted spirit of enterprise. Beginning with
a cotton export house, he soon branched out into ginning, cotton and jute
textiles, chemicals and insurance. He was elected Chairman of All Pakistan
Textile Mills Associated (APTMA), the prime textile body in the country. He
died in 1969, at the age of 51 having achieved so much in so short a time.
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HAJVERY UNIVERSITY LAHORE
Textile Printing
Chairman
Today, Mian Mohammad Mansha, the Chairman of Nishat Group,
like his father, continue the spirit of entrepreneurship and has led
the Group to become a multi dimensional corporation, with wide
ranging interests.
Nishat has grown from a cotton export house into the premier
business group of the country with 5 listed companies, concentrating on 4 core businesses;
Textile, Cement, Banking and Power Generation. Today, Nishat is considered to be at par
with multinationals operating locally in terms of its quality products and management skills.
Chairman's Message
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HAJVERY UNIVERSITY LAHORE
Textile Printing
Textiles
With a base of about 14 billion from textiles export sales revenues and
new investments in line. Nishat is committed to further enhance the foreign
exchange earnings for Pakistan.
The textile capacity of the group is largest in the country.The total monthly
capacity can be categorized as under;
Spinning
Weaving
Processing
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Textile Printing
Textile Printing
Table of Contents
1
Greige....................................................................................................................................
1.1
Fabric Receiving:-.........................................................................................................
1.1.1
1.2
Inspection:......................................................................................................................
1.2.1
1.3
Yarn Faults:...................................................................................................................
1.4
Point System:.................................................................................................................
1.5
1.6
1.6.1
2
Receiving register:..................................................................................................
Pretreatments of Textile......................................................................................................
2.1
Singeing:.........................................................................................................................
2.1.1
Osthoff Singeing.....................................................................................................
2.1.2
Parts of machine....................................................................................................
2.1.3
Fabric Entry...........................................................................................................
2.1.4
Cloth Guiders.........................................................................................................
2.1.5
Drying Cylinders....................................................................................................
2.1.6
Brushing Chamber................................................................................................
2.1.7
Singeing chamber...................................................................................................
2.1.8
Brushing zone.........................................................................................................
2.2
Desizing Saturator.........................................................................................................
2.2.1
Batch making.........................................................................................................
2.2.2
2.3
Bleaching........................................................................................................................
2.3.1
2.3.2
2.3.3
2.3.4
2.4
2.4.1
Stabilizers:..............................................................................................................
2.4.2
Wetting agents........................................................................................................
2.4.3
Sequestering Agent................................................................................................
2.5
Auxiliaries......................................................................................................................
Pretreatment Testing.....................................................................................................
2.5.1
Tegawa Test............................................................................................................
2.5.2
PH Test....................................................................................................................
2.5.3
Absorbency Test.....................................................................................................
2.5.4
Whiteness................................................................................................................
2.5.5
2.5.6
Width.......................................................................................................................
Stenter...................................................................................................................................
3.1
Trough............................................................................................................................
3.2
Padder............................................................................................................................
3.3
Drying chambers...........................................................................................................
3.3.1
Mahlo......................................................................................................................
3.4
Stenter Chain.................................................................................................................
3.5
Cooling Drums...............................................................................................................
Printing.................................................................................................................................
4.1
Fibers........................................................................................................................................
4.2
Yarns...............................................................................................................................
4.3
Fabric Construction......................................................................................................
4.4
Pigment Printing...........................................................................................................
4.6
Pigment Printing...........................................................................................................
Textile Printing
4.7
4.8
Binders:..........................................................................................................................
4.8.1
4.8.2
Order of formulation:............................................................................................
4.8.3
Types of Binders.....................................................................................................
4.8.4
4.8.5
Binder ET...............................................................................................................
4.8.6
Fields of application...............................................................................................
4.9
Thickeners......................................................................................................................
4.9.1
4.9.2
Types of Thickeners:..............................................................................................
4.10
Ammonia:...................................................................................................................
4.11
Urea:...........................................................................................................................
4.12
4.13
4.13.1
Screen preparation:...............................................................................................
4.13.2
Squeegee systems:..................................................................................................
4.13.3
4.13.4
Thickener as a variable.................................................................................................
5.1.1
Testing Thickener..............................................................................................
5.1.2
Rubbing Fastness...................................................................................................
5.1.3
5.1.4
Washing Fastness...................................................................................................
5.2
Binder as a variable......................................................................................................
5.2.1
5.2.2
5.2.3
5.2.4
Washing Fastness...................................................................................................
5.3
5.3.1
5.3.2
Rubbing Fastness...................................................................................................
5.3.3
5.3.4
Washing Fastness...................................................................................................
5.4
Urea as a variable..........................................................................................................
5.4.1
5.4.2
Rubbing Fastness.................................................................................................
5.4.3
5.4.4
Washing Fastness.................................................................................................
Rubbing Fastness.........................................................................................................
6.1.1
Dry Rubbing.........................................................................................................
6.1.2
Wet Rubbing.........................................................................................................
6.2
Washing Fastness.........................................................................................................
6.3
6.4
6.4.1
Printing Paste.....................................................................................................................
Conclusion..........................................................................................................................
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1 Greige
Textile Printing
Inspection:
Inspection of about 10% of whole fabric takes place in greige department. Inspection
percentage may vary depending upon the quantity of fabric. If the amount of fabric is less
then inspection% may increases from 10% to 50%. There are four inspection machines out
of which one is also for rolling. The main purpose of inspection is to count faults in type of
fabric.
1.2.1
1.3
Fabric Stocking
Stitching
Fabric Issuance
Documentation
Textile Printing
Yarn Faults:
Contamination: Any fault other then the fiber of fabric is called contamination.
Mainly polypropylene, hair, jute etc. are some common contaminations.
Cockled yarn: fluff or any material pressed by machine in warp more end is called
cockled yarn. It forms hard surface.
Color variation: At some places color is found different then the actual one.
Oily weft: When weft or pick yarn is oily then it is called oily weft.
Black End: When end or warp is black may be due to oil is called black end.
Count variation: In this case warp or weft may be thick or thin then the count
shown in the construction. In this case cloudy like appearance occurs.
Short End: Any warp or end may be missing.
Double End: In this case double yarn is found in end or warps rather then the single
one.
Miss pick: Any pick or weft may be missing.
Double pick: Double yarn in pick or weft is missing.
Mechanical faults:
Short miss pick: If pick or weft is missing at any point than it is called short miss
pick.
Short double pick: In this case two yarns in pink are found for short distance.
Starting mark: When loom stops and then starts gives a stain (crease) on fabric in
weft angle.
Wrapping mark: It is just like starting mark but here surface become very hard on
weft side.
Oil stain: It is the spot of oil in circular shape and mostly yellowish in color.
Kinks: When new yarn is knocked either on warp or weft side it is pressed and
become hard and swollen.
Loose ends: Warp or end comes out of fabric and not properly stitched, so it does
not look straight and forms in zig zag way.
Sizing satin: It is like oily stain but more opaque then oily stain.
1-3 inches
Points
1
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HAJVERY UNIVERSITY LAHORE
3-6 inches
2
Textile Printing
6-9 inches
3
9- above
4
This is called four point American systems. It was developed to create an
understanding between customer and supplier.
Important Points:
Average 20 faults in 100 m fabric are acceptable. The distance between every fault
should 5-6 m. If these faults are very close to each other then this fabric will also reject.
Suppose in 30 m 20 faults are present.
Selvedge:
Selvedge is present on both sides of fabric. It is strong, hard and saves fabric from
the pressure of stitching during processing. It is of two types.
Leno (L):
It has free yarns on weft.
Tuck in:
It has not free yarns on ends.
Contamination (Jute)
Count variation
Missed picks
Polypropylene
- 118
Here 60 and 60 are count number on warp and weft side of fabric respectively. Count
no. is a Japanese system which depends upon the weight of warp or weft yarn. 164 are no.
of warp per square inches and 126 is no. of weft per square inches. 118 is the total width of
fabric including selvedge.
1.6.1 Testing Of Greige Fabric
In Nishat mills we carried out the following testing on greige fabric.
1: Quality
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HAJVERY UNIVERSITY LAHORE
2: Tear Strength
3: Tensile Strength
4: Blend Ratio
5: G.S.M of Fabric
Textile Printing
2 Pretreatments of Textile
Singeing
Desizing (Cold-pad)
Solumatic Bleaching
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HAJVERY UNIVERSITY LAHORE
Textile Printing
2.1 Singeing:
Singeing is the first stage in a preparation sequence. Singeing is a process of surface
lint /hair/protruding fiber removal. Cotton woven fabrics would normally be singed but
knitted fabric would not. The most widely used type of singeing machine allows the fabric
to pass at a high speed through a naked gas flame.
Before Singeing
After Singeing
surface of the fabric but that there is no burning of fibers which are locked Textile
within Printing
the yarn
and which are not projecting.
Immediately after passing through the singeing region of the machine, the fabric is
quenched by running it through water or a steam box to extinguish any remaining sparks
and embers.
Osthoff-Senge
0.2 bar
2 rollers (brush shape flat, driven by
Separate motor)
3-5 (from the fabric surface)
2 burner (ceramic)
8-23 mbar
10-30 mm
2 rollers (contain piles, driven by
motor)
90-150m/min
75-85oC
capacity 900 liters
13-15 meters
1st 2.51bar, 2nd 0.9-1.0 bar
Fabric Entry
Fabric entry is composed of the different free and stationary guide rollers, to guide
the fabric and to open its width.
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Textile Printing
2.1.4
Cloth Guiders
Cloth guiders are used to guide cloth
to its respective position and to open the
width of the fabric by removing any creases
present in the fabric. Pneumatic pressure is
used to operate these guiders.
2.1.5
Drying Cylinders
These are two large surface, polished drums which are heated by steam. These drums
are used to dry the moisture gained by the fabric during storage.
2.1.6
Brushing Chamber
In the brushing chamber two brushes remove any lose thread/yarn, fluff and raises
the fibers so these can be burnt easily. The brushed off fluff or threads are taken away from
the chamber by a suction fan.
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HAJVERY UNIVERSITY LAHORE
Textile Printing
Onto water cooled roller
Flame meets right-angle onto the fabric bended
over a water cooled roller. Recommended for
fabrics of temperature sensitive fibers, those of
open-weave, blended ones weighing less than
125g/m
Tangential singeing
Flame passes tangentially over the fabric bended
over a water cooled roller recommendable for
fabrics which cannot tolerate direct exposure to
flame and for repair of filamentation
2.1.8
Brushing zone
Brushing zone consist of two rollers, contain piles. The purpose of the zone is to
remove burnt projected fibers and fire sparks. A suction fan is used to remove the burnt
fibers from the brushing chamber.
Singeing Conditions
Fabric speed
No. of burners
Singeing position
Fabric Temperature
Flame Intensity
75m/mint
2
3
125
18
18
Textile Printing
2.2.1
Batch making
After desizing (cold-pad) they make the batch of the fabric.
2.2.2
Chemical
Hydrogen peroxide
Sodium Hydroxide
Sequestering Agent(NFE)
Wetting Agent(UPT)
Stabilizer (OKM)
Weight g/l
18
50
5
5
2
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HAJVERY UNIVERSITY LAHORE
Textile Printing
2.3 Bleaching
It is the process of removal of color impurities or it whitens the fabric or yarn by
oxidative or reductively removing the color impurities. In bleaching absorbency also rose. A
consistent white base fabric has real value when printing light to medium shades because it
is much easier to produce shade according to desire on a consistent white background than
on one that varies in amount of color impurities (yellow).Bleaching may be the only
preparatory process or it may be used in conjunction with other treatments, e.g. desizing,
scouring and mercerizing.
The aims of bleaching are
High degree of whiteness for white goods.
Even and stable white for dyed goods.
Complete removal of cotton seeds and motes.
No or only minimum tendering of the fiber.
Technically reliable and simple operation.
Economical (less chemical and energy required).
2.3.1
Made by KUSTERS
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HAJVERY UNIVERSITY LAHORE
Model:
2002
Textile Printing
Operation
Maximum speed of this machine is 125m/ min.
First of all fabric from the batcher is taken to the guide roller and then to the rubber
roller operated by a separate motor and then on to the winder and then in scray. When one
batcher is about to end then the roller operated by separate motor is driven and the fabric is
collected in the scray in order to stitch the fabric from the next batcher with the previous one
in order to prevent the stoppage of machine. So the scray is basically the collection box.
Pressure motor is basically present to produce tension in fabric and to avoid wrinkle free
and folding free fabric.
From Washing Tanks
Then the fabric after passing through the coil roller through the scray is passed on to
the washing zone one. Rollers in the coil form remove the crease and wrinkle formation in
fabric. Here in the washing chamber one hot washing with the steam is done. The
temperature in the washing is 95oC. The soaping is done and then again washing is done in
washing two, same as washing no. one. Then the fabric is passed through the padder roller
and here water is removed from the fabric then the fabric is passed on to the FLEX NIP.
The Flex Nip
Then the fabric is passed on to the FLEX NIP. Here the main bleaching with the
chemicals is done. Here the fabric is treated with various chemicals. The chemicals are
introduced in Flex Nip by an auto dozing system. If the fabric is to be scoured the in the
same chamber the scouring chemicals are introduced instead of the bleaching chemicals.
Fabric speed keeps 80 m/min.
Sr. No
Chemical
1
2
3
4
5
Hydrogen peroxide
Sodium Hydroxide
Sequestering Agent(NFE)
Wetting Agent(UPT)
Stabilizer (OKM)
Weight ml/kg
of fabric
25
16
6
3
3.5
The Steamer
After the flex nip the fabric is passed through the steamer in zigzag form as the rollers are in
zigzag form. Here steam is applied on the fabric. The temperature of the steam is about
99.4oC. The time of passing of specific length of fabric through steam box is adjusted
according to the requirement and type of fabric. This time was approximately 20 minutes
when I visited this mill. Entrance and exit from steam box is the same way.
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HAJVERY UNIVERSITY LAHORE
The Washings
Textile Printing
After the steamer the fabric is passed through the series of hot washings. After every
two washing chambers squeezing is done by means of squeezing rollers.
In the hot washings hot water is showered on the inclined fabric so, that more water is
penetrated in the fabric. In the squeezing rollers the fabric is squeezed and pressed to
remove the extra amount of water from the fabric. The pressure of squeezing roller is
adjusted according to the degree of percentage of process uptake.
There are mainly five washings and two squeezing zones. One squeezing zone after
every two washing and again a squeezing after the next two washing. Again the pressure
inside the washing is controlled and adjusted according to the requirement.
With every squeezing roller pair there is a dancing roller to control the tension in the
fabric.
Drying Cylinders
After washing the fabric is passed through the drying cylinders. Inside these
cylinders is hot water for drying purpose and in between these cylinders fabric is circulated
in zigzag form. At the end of drying cylinders there are two cylinders known as water
cooled cylinders. Inside these two cylinders cold water circulates in order to low down the
temperature of fabric which was increased during hot cylinder drying.
Then again there is a scray for collection of fabric and then the bleached fabric is wound on
a batcher through the delivery roller for further processes.
2.3.4
2.4 Auxiliaries
2.4.1 Stabilizers:
`
Stabilizers must be added to the bleach solution to control the decomposition of
hydrogen peroxide. Stabilizers function by providing buffering action to control the PH at
the optimum level and to complex with trace metals which catalyze the degradation of the
fibers. Stabilizers include sodium silicate, organic compounds and phosphates.
2.4.2 Wetting agents
Wetting agents are compounds that lower the surface tension of a liquid, allowing
easier spreading, and lowering of the interfacial tension between two liquids, or between a
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HAJVERY UNIVERSITY LAHORE
liquid and a solid. Surfactants may act as: detergents, wetting agents, emulsifiers,
foaming
Textile Printing
agents, and dispersants. Surfactants reduce the surface tension of water by adsorbing at the
liquid-gas interface.
2.4.3 Sequestering Agent
A substance that removes a metal ion from a solution system by forming a complex
ion that does not have the chemical reactions of the ion that is removed; can be a chelating
or a complexing agent.
Sequestering agents combine with calcium and magnesium ions and other heavy
metal ions in hard water. They form molecules in which the ions are held so securely
(sequestered) that they can no longer react.
The sequestering agents prevent salts from recontaminating parts.
The sequestering agents may also tie up the active chemicals in a detergent that may
decrease the cleaning efficiency and life of a wash bath.
Common sequestering agents include orthophosphate, orthosilicate, and phosphates.
Sequestering agents are produced as powder or in liquid form.
Tegawa Test
Tegawa test is used to find out the size percentage in the fabric. A drop of tegawa
solution is dropped on the fabric and matches it with tegawa rating which is 1-9.
The under consideration fabric tegawa rating was 5-6 which is considered as very
good.
2.5.2
PH Test
This test is used to find out the PH of the fabric. A drop of PH solution is dropped on
the fabric and matches it with the scale given below:
Ph Scale
The PH of the fabric under consideration fabric is 6 which lie in acidic media.
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Textile Printing
2.5.3
Absorbency Test
This test is used to find out the pick up percentage of the fabric. As we know that in
case of pigment printing complete absorbency of the fabric is not required. Because pigment
is coated on the surface of the fabric without any reaction between pigment and fiber. In
case of pigment printing absorbency is generally required up to 3cm.
2.5.4
Whiteness
The whiteness of the fabric is calculated by the ratio of incident light to reflected
light. Spectrophotometer is used to fine out the degree of whiteness. We used the primary
light TL84 source to find out the whiteness of fabric in regular intervals.
Whiteness
Fabric length
(meters)
1000
3000
5000
7000
2.5.5
Left
Center
Right
75
75
76
75
73
74
75
74
75
75
76
75
Warp
Force (N)
Elongation %
675.0
10.42
Tear
Weft
Force (N)
Elongation %
515.4
9.29
Warp
Force (N)
6.48
Weft
Force (N)
8.79
25
2.5.6
Textile Printing
Width
Width
Shrinkage
6
Process of Stenter
3
Stenter
The most universal fabric drying machine is the stenter, which is usually the most
expensive and indispensable machine in the finishing. Most finishers will need at least two
stenters as the majority of fabrics have to be stenter dried, or heat set, at least once to
establish dimensions and properties. In the Yorkshire woolen industry this machine is known
as the tenter and commonly has two or more layers for drying fairly heavy woolen or
worsted fabrics.
The essential characteristics of a stenter are the two driven chains carrying pins
(clips) to hold the fabric edges for passage through the enclosed drying compartments.
Guiding arrangements are designed for accurate pinning of the edges, with provision for
over feeding the fabric to allow any required adjustment of fabric length while the width is
increased to the precisely specified value. Clip stenters are useful for dense and heavy
fabrics that tend to damage pins, but overfeeding is not possible.
The no of drying compartments, each typically 3m long, depends on the
speed required but is usually between three and eight. The tapering entry section is 5-7 m
long and the delivery section another 5m to allow cooling to occur before removal for
batching. A total length of 30m plus fabric feeding arrangements and batcher space is
therefore common and speeds of 100m/min often achieved.
Stenters drying provides the ideal opportunity to achieve weft straightening and edge
uncurling and the appropriate mechanism are fitted at the entry. Sometimes the recovery of
curled knitted fabric edges is not possible and a system of edge gumming and subsequent
cutting and removal is fitted.
Efficiency and uniformity of drying demands attention to the air flow. A power full
fan (or two) pushes air into tapered ducts and through precisely made nozzles to achieve
high impact velocity at the fabric surface. The slightly cooler air must then be directed into
the return circuit, through a filter and the heating section (ideally an internal gas burner or
thermoil heated section) to the fan. The Babcock Star jet nozzle system is claimed to
improve performance by 15% because of its optimal air flow pattern. Air temperature in the
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HAJVERY UNIVERSITY LAHORE
region of 130-150 C is used for high drying rates without excessive heat
losses
in the
Textile
Printing
exhaust.
For optimal thermal efficiency, it is essential to monitor and control the humidity of
the drying atmosphere. It is possible to do this with a fluidic oscillator developed by Mahlo
and of the exhaust dampers and dramatically energy costs rise when the humidity falls
below 10%
Reducing the volume of cold air entering (by exhaust damper control) reduces the
energy required to raise its temperature and it has been claimed that 30% savings in the
energy result when humidity is increased from 5 to 10%. There is also a reduction in the rate
of drying but an optimum balance can be found in the 10 to 15% region. In the future it may
be that heat pumps will be used to maintain the optimum humidity and eliminate exhaust
losses.
3.1 Trough
Its purpose is to keep the chemicals so that when fabric passes through it, it picks
the chemicals present in it. Its level is adjusted on the control panel so that it keeps the
same amount of chemicals. When its level goes down, automatic valve starts feeding
the chemicals. When it starts going above the required level, this valve stops feeding.
Water jacket is present outside the trough. Chilled water from chiller is circulated
inside this jacket to keep it cool because when fabric enters in the trough, it increases
its temperature. And due to increased temperature, silicone emulsion will be destroyed
and silicone will return to its origin form. When it happens, silicone will give spots of
oil on fabric which is not removable. So we have to cool down the trough.
3.2 Padder
It is a kusters padder present on stenter-1. Its pressure of centre, left and right can be
adjusted separately. Its purpose is to squeeze the fabric so that 65% pick up is obtained. In
finishing it is adjusted just like nip and no special kind of work is being obtained from it.
Pressure of centre is adjusted is by hydraulic pressure and of sides is adjusted by pneumatic
pressure. But monfort padders are present on stenter-2, 3 in which the sides pressure is
adjusted by pneumatic pressure. The speed of the fabric is 70m/min and the padder pressure
is 170 N/cm2.
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HAJVERY UNIVERSITY LAHORE
Textile Printing
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HAJVERY UNIVERSITY LAHORE
Textile Printing
thread connecting with the sensor. When we press this thread, machine isTextile
stopped.
Here,
Printing
width of stenter chain can be adjusted as well.
Tear
Warp
Force (N)
7.06
Weft
Force (N)
7.64
Printing
4
Printing
Printing was originally done by hand using wooden blocks with aTextile
raised Printing
printing
surface, such as children do potato printing. The two main techniques used for transferring
the printing paste onto the fabric involves engraved rollers carrying printing paste in the
recesses corresponding to the color pattern or screens with open mesh in the pattern areas
there will be one roller or screen contacting the fabric surface for each color to be printed.
The most important printing method today is pigment printing. This involves
printing the colored pattern onto the fabric surface and curing the printing areas by heating
in the air. The print paste contains the colored pigments and a binding agent. on curing in
hot air, the binder forms the solid film of transparent polymer that hold the pigments in the
surface of yarns.thr great advantage of pigment printing is that the fabric does not require
washing after the fixation process.
Soluble dyes used in printing the fabric are of the same type as those normally used to dye
it a solid color. Apart from in pigments printing the usual sequence of operation in printing,
drying, steaming and washing. Dyes for printing must have high solubility because there is
only small amount of water in thickened print paste and after drying the dyes must redissolved in a limited amount of condensed steam. The paste must dissolve dyes to allow
their diffusion into the fibers. It will also contain all the other required chemicals for fiber
wetting and dye fixation. The washing removes thickening agent, unfixed dyes and other
auxiliary chemicals from the fabric surface. During washing it is critical, that the dyes
removed do not stain any white ground or other printed areas. For this reason, the dyes for
printing must have relatively low molecular weight so that their substantivity is not very
high. When a manufacture sells the same dyes for both dyeing and printing the product
formulation will be invariably different.
Before the modern methods of textile printing are discussed in detail .Some specific
information about textile material must be covered. The properties of fibers, yarns and fabric
construction impact the textile printing processes as well as the characteristics of the final
printed product.
4.2 Yarns
The type of yarn construction also has an influence on textile printing. Because print
color is applied on one side of the fabric, the evenness, brightness and depth of color is very
sensitive to hairiness, twist and luster of the yarn. For instance the higher the yarns luster the
brighter the printed color. Fiber luster can also influence the appearance of the printed
design in much the same way. If yarns are highly twisted, they may not allow print paste to
penetrate deeply into the yarn bundle and this yield poor print colorfastness. Additionally,
31
HAJVERY UNIVERSITY LAHORE
fine to medium yarns generally are easier to print than large bulky yarns or
novelty
yarns
Textile
Printing
(towels etc).
matters found naturally occurring in many plants and even in some animals.
Examples
are
Textile
Printing
the red pigment madder and the blue indigo, both extracted from plants, cochineal and lake
both from insects, the much-prized Tyrian purple derived from certain shellfish, logwood
extracts ranging in from red to brown or black, depending on the precipitant, and finally
sepia obtained from cuttlefish. The methods used for making pigments from these and other
natural dyes were more like recipes than scientific procedures and were probably derived
from the work of alchemists and herbalists. The former spent their lives trying to prepare
gold by dissolving all kinds of cheap substances in acids and then re-precipitating them
(hence their discovery of many precipitants), while the latter sought to extract compounds of
medicinal value from plants and some of their extracts must have included natural dyes.
Among the precipitants employed were tannic acid, tartar emetic, fatty acid (Stearic, oleic)
soaps, sulphonated oils (Turkey red oil), earth lakes (mixed natural silicates), phosphates,
casein and arsenious acid. The fastness properties of these pigments were relatively poor,
both to water and to light. Furthermore, the of the pigments made by these methods largely
depended on the particular precipitant or combination of precipitants used, a fact also
exploited by medieval dyers to extend the range of s that they could produce from the very
limited number of natural dyes available to them. Many of the methods for making these
pigments are of historical interest only,
These are stable and only require simple combination before printing. Apart
fromPrinting
carbon
Textile
black and titanium dioxide for black and white respectively, metal powders for special
effects, the ED pigments used are organic
Compounds synthesized by the dye manufacturers. They belong to the same
chemical classes as soluble dyestuffs (azo, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine) but have no ionic
groups. The binder for a water-based print paste is typically a copolymer produced by
emulsion polymerization of a mixture of monomers such as butyl acrylate and acrylonitrile,
or of styrene and 1, 3-butadiene. During drying of the printed zones, the particles of swollen
binder gel coagulate on the fabric surface and coalesce into a coherent film. By regulating
the monomer composition and the degree of polymer cross linking the binder will give a
film with the desired elasticity and solvent, light and washing fastness. One method of
promoting cross linking is to incorporate into the polymer a small amount of co monomer
with a residual reactive group such as N-methylolmethacrylamide. During curing, the Nmethylol groups along the polymer chains undergo intermolecular condensation reactions
producing a number of cross links (Figure 23.7). This is called internal cross linking. Since
the condensation reaction generates water, and is reversible, dry air is used for curing rather
than steam. The cross links are, however, reasonably stable to hydrolysis during mild
washing and are not present in sufficient number to produce a rigid film. They ensure good
film stability, little swelling of the film in dry cleaning solvents and improve the adhesion to
the fiber surface.
Cross linking can also occur by adding to the paste an agent capable of
reacting with the binder polymer during curing. These are external cross linking agents.
Nmethylolmelamines or their methyl ethers are typical examples. The N-methylol groups
can react with groups in the binder polymer or with the fiber as well as with other chemicals
in the paste such as thickeners (Figure 23.7). External cross linking is better for printing on
synthetic fibers because of the improved adhesion of the film produced. The condensation of
N-methylol compounds requires an acid medium and the pigment print paste will therefore
have an added weak acid such ammonium dihydrogen phosphate. This compound causes
reduction of the pH of the print film during curing, promoting cross linking.
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HAJVERY UNIVERSITY LAHORE
Textile Printing
polymer. The repulsion of the negatively charged carboxyl ate groups causes
the Printing
polymer
Textile
chain to open out and the polymer particles swell considerably.
Textile Printing
1.
2.
3.
4.
Binder
Thickener
Ammonia
Urea
Textile Printing
4.8 Binders:
A product of high molecular weight macro molecules which is capable of forming a
three-dimensional film used to hold the pigment particles in place on the surface of a textile
substrate thus forming a three dimensional linked network. These high molecular weight
macro molecules are mainly constructed from simple monomers by polymerization. Binders
only form link between the pigment and the fibers. Binders are not necessary when using
dyes very important in determining fastness.
Some general consideration required for an ideal binders.
Strength: Strength of the fabric is closely linked with the strength of the applied
binders.
Adhesion to Fibers: The adhesion strength of the binder-to-fiber bond has to be
considered.
Extensibility: Degree of cross linking should be moderate to prevent vigorous
bonding of the macro molecules to preserve extensibility
Flexibility/handle: The some movements of fibers should be allowed, especially
when a soft hand is desired.
Elastic Recovery: To avoid the permanent deformation of fabric, good elastic
recovery is required under strain.
Resistance to aging: The binder should be stable and not be degraded in the fabric
during storage and use.
Resistance to washing/ Drying cleaning: The cross linked binder film must be fast
to washing/ dry cleaning because fabric requires resistance to wear, washing & dry
cleaning depending on their end use.
Economical: Minimizing the cost is an ongoing requirement.
Other special requirements: Such as Flame resistance, resistance to chemicals, air,
oxygen, light, heat etc.
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HAJVERY UNIVERSITY LAHORE
The purposes of wetting agents, mainly nonionic or anionic surfactants, are to enhance
binder penetration through fabric, improve the affinity between binder and fibers.
4.8.2 Order of formulation:
The order of adding ingredients into a binding bath is extremely important; the
compatibility of ingredients should be confirmed. The milky white color of most binders
impedes a check on the white-color indication of non-compatible ingredients, so most
ingredients are first added to the dilution water. After the compatibility is assured, binders
are added and then thickeners added to adjust viscosity. For the stability of the binding
solution, catalysts are added just before application. Some water may be added to reach a
desirable solid level. The summarized order is as follows:
Most ingredients
Latex binder
Thickener
Catalyst
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HAJVERY UNIVERSITY LAHORE
Some water, and the others, such as dyes and pigments, fillers, clays, Textile
optical Printing
brighteners, sewing aids, etc.
Classification of Binders
Binders can be classified into several categories based on the following
1. Polymer chemical structure.
2. Functionality.
3. Type of curing reaction.
The polymers contain acid or amide functional groups. They can react
with
added
Textile
Printing
curing resins, but the degree of cross linking is limited.
Self-cross linking polymers
The polymers contain n-methylol functional groups. They can react with themselves,
and a high crosslink density can be obtained by adding curing resins.
4.8.3
Types of Binders
Acrylic:
ii.
Striated Acrylics.
42
HAJVERY UNIVERSITY LAHORE
iii.
iv.
Vinyl Acrylics:
v.
vi.
vii.
viii.
Ethylene/Vinyl Chloride:
Textile Printing
4.8.5
Binder ET
Acrylic pigment-printing binder for direct, discharge and resist printing. The prints
are fast to dry cleaning, have a pleasingly soft handle and excellent all round fastness
properties.
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HAJVERY UNIVERSITY LAHORE
Textile Printing
Fields of application
Colored prints, matt white and matt colored prints on white and dyed grounds; flock
printing; bronze printing; printing with pearlescent pigments such as Iriodin (E. Merck,
Darmstadt); foam printing.
Resist printing: Suitable
Discharge printing: Suitable
44
HAJVERY UNIVERSITY LAHORE
4.9 Thickeners
Dyeing is done through impregnation and the liquor density is very low to facilitate
proper impregnation however since printing is a controlled process and solution is applied
on fabric in localized way, so there has to be a way to control the viscosity of the solution to
facilitate the application and handling of the liquor on substrate. Viscosity is one of the most
important process variables in printing.
Thickness of the paste basically helps to restrict the dye application confined to a
specific area and to produce a print or design on the fabric. To make a multi-colored printed
design on a cloth, it is necessary to sharply localize color in the restricted printed area or
areas only, i.e. well within the boundaries of the print design and prevent color from
spreading and defusing beyond the sharp outline of the print. To achieve this, the dye is used
in a suitably thickened print-paste, rather than a simple aqueous solution as required in
dyeing operation. A print-paste contains suitable dye, and several textile-printing auxiliaries.
They are characterized by undergoing marked macromolecular swelling in solution
due to salvation (hydration in aqueous systems). While the principal role of thickening
45
HAJVERY UNIVERSITY LAHORE
agents is to increase the viscosity of print pastes or pad liquors, certain other
properties
are
Textile
Printing
also of importance, such as stability and rheology of the print paste, adhesion and brittleness
of the dried thickener film, the effect on color yield and penetration, ease of preparation and
removal, and not least cost.
his is best understood by comparison with simple liquids such as water or
alcohol, which show Newtonian flow behavior. The apparent viscosity of
Newtonian liquids does not change when a shear stress is applied. All
thickening agents, however, are highly viscous in a static state but
apparently show reduced viscosity when a shearing force is applied. They must flow under
shear to allow transfer through the screen, and then resume high viscosity when the shear is
removed so that colorants remain where they have been deposited. Most thickening agents
are of the shear thinning type the apparent viscosity progressively decreasing as the shear
rate is increased. It is important that this change is reversible, viscosity returning to its
original level as soon as the shear is removed. In some cases, shear thinning may not begin
until a certain critical shear has been applied Thixotropic fluids show time-dependent effects
in that apparent viscosity depends on both the rate and duration of shear, the return to
original viscosity being delayed. The opposite of shear thinning is shear thickening, often
referred to as dilatants behavior; such behavior is clearly not suitable for textile printing.
Print pastes may be thickened by any of the following methods
A relatively low concentration of a long-chain thickening agent
A relatively high concentration of a shorter-chain thickener or one having a highly
branched structure
An emulsion
A finely dispersed solid such as bentonite (derived from clay).
Thickening agents can be of natural or synthetic origin. Various natural gums and starches
have been used traditionally in many printing styles. The materials from which they are
extracted are valuable sources of foodstuffs, so availability and cost can depend on
fluctuating demand from the food industry.
Stickiness
Textile Printing
Plasticity and several other desirable properties to the print-paste.
The use of a thickener also results in an improved coverage of the fabric and localized
penetration of the dye into the cloth, without spreading and maintaining a sharpness of the
design.
It provides adequate viscosity for printing which restricts the flow properties of print
paste to avoid spreading of color. Thickeners affect print quality in terms of depth of color,
brightness, and sharpness of prints. It is necessary for pigment printing paste to be
thyrotrophic, i.e., its viscosity should decrease under shear and redevelop when shear is
removed, so it can be applied on the textile material easily but with limited penetration.
4.9.1
Alginates:
48
HAJVERY UNIVERSITY LAHORE
Textile Printing
Two important and interrelated parameters for acrylic thickeners are relative
molecular mass and degree of cross linking. Simply increasing the molecular mass of linear
poly (acrylic acid) yields thickeners that give stringy pastes unsuitable for use in printing.
Hence a degree of cross linking is necessary to minimize stringiness by decreasing the water
solubility and promoting dispensability.
The balance of molecular mass and degree of cross linking influences other
properties, such as degree of penetration, levelness of ground colors and sharpness of the
print.
These products are usually supplied to the printer as partially neutralized polyacids.
Further neutralization is carried out by the printer when making up the print pastes. This
neutralization is often a critical process. For certain applications, as with resin-bonded
pigments, neutralization is carried out with ammonia. This has the advantage that during
subsequent baking the ammonia is driven off to liberate the free polyacid, which then
catalyses activation of the resin binder. In other cases neutralization is carried out with
nonvolatile alkalis such as sodium hydroxide. It is particularly important to use the latter in
reactive printing, since ammonia would be evaporated off during fixation leading to a
lowering of pH and consequently poor fixation. Moreover, reactive dyes can be deactivated
by reaction with ammonia to form their non-reactive amino derivatives.
The commercial success of acrylic thickeners in pigment printing is attributable to
the fact that they can be designed to give properties very similar to those of emulsion
thickenings. These were previously the only systems used in pigment printing. It is
important to realize that an acrylic thickener intended for use with pigment systems may be
unsuitable for use with dyes. This is because commercial thickeners, available as solutions,
emulsions, liquid dispersions or powders, often contain additional chemicals to improve
their stability and performance in particular systems.
For pigment systems, for example, the thickener may also contain additives (surfactants or
polyelectrolyte dispersing assistants), which not only modify the behavior of the acrylic
thickener but also assist dispersion of the pigment Surfactant additions are undesirable with
reactive dyes because they promote color bleeding, whilst the ammonia is undesirable
because of deactivation of reactive groups, the lowering of pH that occurs by its evolution
50
HAJVERY UNIVERSITY LAHORE
during the fixation process and the subsequent difficulty in washing-off Textile
of the Printing
residual
thickener, now bereft of its solubilising ammonium ions.
A major drawback of synthetic thickeners when used with dyes is their sensitivity to
electrolytes. Most soluble dyes behave as highly ionized electrolytes and disperse dyes
contain anionic polyelectrolyte dispersing agents unless they have been formulated with
nonionic systems specifically for use with acrylic thickeners. Consequently there is a loss of
viscosity; this can be quite pronounced although it depends on circumstances, particularly
on the dye concentration.
As already mentioned, this can be alleviated to some extent by copolymerization with
acrylamide during manufacture. Otherwise it is necessary to try to eliminate all electrolytes
from the system or to increase the concentration of thickener. Such measures have their
limitations in practice, however. Alternative synthetic thickening agents include poly (vinyl
alcohol) and copolymers of maleic anhydride with alkenes as shown,
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HAJVERY UNIVERSITY LAHORE
Hence it can be concluded that their exist a wide range of natural and synthetic
Textilethickeners
Printing
and we can select the most appropriate ones according to our requirements.
4.10 Ammonia:
Viscosity depends upon the degree of ionization of carboxylic groups present in the
polymer chain. When NH4OH is added to polymer emulsion,4 (ammonium) counter ions
and poly- some ionization occurs providing NH3 meric chains containing COO (carboxyl
ate) ions. After complete neutralization is achieved, further addition of ammonia results in a
build up of 4 counter ions, leading to a decrease in ionization of COOH groups NH 3 by the
ECT of law of mass action and the common ion ECT. The extended chains start recoiling
and viscosity decreases. Viscosity was found to increase with increasing pH up to 7.58, and
beyond that the viscosity decreased.
Thickeners with improved filterability and good after-wash for printing
4.11 Urea:
Urea is hygroscopic in nature. It absorbs water due to Hydrogen Bonding. During
curing, it releases water and provides wet conditions or water as media which is necessary
for reaction between dye and fiber.
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HAJVERY UNIVERSITY LAHORE
Textile Printing
Reggiani
Renoir Futura, 180 Cm, Rotary Printing Machine
BRAND
Reggiani
REF.
119747-1
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HAJVERY UNIVERSITY LAHORE
Model
Renoir Futura
ww (in cm or inch)
180 Cm
Short description
YEAR
1988
QUANTITY
LOCATION
DATE
25 Nov. 2009
Textile Printing
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HAJVERY UNIVERSITY LAHORE
Textile Printing
Screens
Screen specification
Screen material: Nickel
Screen dimensions:
Sr. No.
Dimension
1.
2.
3.
Length
Repeat (circumference)
Thickness
Meshes:
Size
Unit
mm
mm
m
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HAJVERY UNIVERSITY LAHORE
Textile Printing
Screen Meshes
Following are the main tasks performed in screen preparation:
Rounding:
Coating:
Exposing:
Lightening:
Developing:
Curing:
End Ring:
Rechecking and Retouching:
Screen Stripping:
Rounding:
Screens are first rounded in rounding section of screen making department. A metal
ring is placed at each side of the screen and the screen is heated at 240-260C for 1 hour.
This is the rounding temperature. After rounding, the screen is washed to remove dirt from
it. Then it is dried at room temperature.
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HAJVERY UNIVERSITY LAHORE
Textile Printing
Coating:
Once the screen is dried, it is coated with Photo sensitive material RS 100 Emulsion
and RS 101 Sensitizer. Required quantity of the sensitizer is 5%. These two chemicals are
used in mixture. After coating the screen is kept for drying inside the dryer at 20-30C for
15 to 20 minutes.
Machine name: Streric coating machine.
Coating material: RS 100 Emulsions and RS 101 Sensitizer
Color of material: Yellow
Exposing:
After drying the screen is put on ink jet. Working of the machine is given below:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
Very firstly, switch on the machine and the computer that is linked with the machine.
Then goes to operating program and loading the files of the program.
Now, the required screen with required meshes mounted on the machine.
For airtight the screen we wound scotch tape on the both ends of the screens.
Now according to the length of the screen the loaded program can run.
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HAJVERY UNIVERSITY LAHORE
6. After completing the jetting process design no. and color no. is written
on thePrinting
one
Textile
end of the screen.
7. Then remove the screen from the machine and ready for developing.
Lightening:
In this ink jet machine the phenomenon of lighting is done simultaneously with
exposing, with 5000 watts light. The lightening head consists of a light that moves on the
left and right side of the screen. These moves are called strokes. The number of strokes is
fed in the machine. The finer the figure the lesser strokes are given to the screen.
Developing:
Now rings are placed on each side of the screen once again and then the screen is
immersed in water for 3-5 minutes in developing section. Because, ink is soluble in water
and removed easily when washed with water with slight pressure. Then drying of the screen
is done for 10-15 minutes. After developing the screen is checked on checking light stand
fitted with tube lights in it.
Curing:
Its the process in which the screen is cured. The screens are placed vertically in the
curing machine and maintained the temperature at 200-250C, time given is 20 minutes for
new prepared screens and 3o minutes for striped screens.
Curing Chamber.
End Ring:
After curing screen is send to end ring section. In this section a head is put on each
side of the screen with the help of end ring machine, as shown in figures below
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HAJVERY UNIVERSITY LAHORE
Textile Printing
End ring
Recipe:
Sr. No.
Chemical
Amount
Unit
1.
2.
3.
4.
Phenol
Formic acid
Methylene
Hydrochloric acid
100
35
10
30
kg
kg
kg
kg
5.
Water
825
kg
Total
1000
kg
The process mentioned above is rarely used today. SCI 31 stripper liquor is mostly
used and is less harmful for consumers as compare to the old one.
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HAJVERY UNIVERSITY LAHORE
Textile Printing
Screen Engraving:
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HAJVERY UNIVERSITY LAHORE
Textile Printing
Mostly magnetic squeegee is used in rotary screen printing with the different
diameters or size of the rods as: 8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 16mm, 20mm, and 24mm. These
different sizes of rod are used according to the required design.
Textile Printing
The rotary engraved screens belonging to the desired pattern are placed and fixed in
their proper positions in a predetermined order. Although patterns with 12 colors are
sometimes printed. Only 5 or 6 colored designs are usually most commonly used.
The printing paste is introduced in the centre of the rotary screen by means of the
color pump and the color distribution system
The color paste is well distributed all over the interior of the rotary screen and is
pressed onto the fabric by means of a well designed squeegee system.
Pumping action
The substrate, i.e., the cloth, travels over and along the endless printing conveyer
blanket to the end of the printing table top.
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HAJVERY UNIVERSITY LAHORE
The printing process is completed at this stage, and the printed cloth
is then
led
Textile
Printing
to the continuous dryer.
The dryer, having an adequate evaporation capacity is suitably designed.
After drying the fabric is passed on the plaiting down arrangement.
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HAJVERY UNIVERSITY LAHORE
Drying section:
Textile Printing
After printing the fabric, the paste is dried to prevent accidental smearing of the print
design and color migration. For this purpose the fabric is directed towards the drying
section.
Curing section:
The printed fabric may immediately go through the fixation process, or it may be
held to go to fixation later. The type of colorant and production issues with the printing
operation dictates the choice. This section of the machine has three chambers. The
temperature is maintained in first chamber is 140C, 160C in second and in third there is
also 160C. This section also has 6 fans which blow the hot air towards fabric. After the
curing in which the fixation is done the fabric is directed towards the trolley by plating
mechanism.
Advantages:
Higher production rate.
Quick changeover of patterns
Continuous patterns
Continuous screen printing process
Fabric glued to blanket
Fabric moves under rotating screens
Rod or blade squeegee system
Fine adjustments easily made
Speeds up to 120 yards per min.
Estimates indicate that this technique controls approximately, 65% of the printed fabric
market worldwide.
Disadvantages:
Design limitations
Small repeats
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HAJVERY UNIVERSITY LAHORE
Textile Printing
Red KGC
50 g/kg
15 g/kg
25 g/kg
12.5 g/kg
Recipe / 200 g
Auxiliaries
Binder
Urea
Thickener
Ammonia
Quantity
10g/200g
5g/200g
3g/200g
25g/200g
Thickener as a variable
Recipe # 1
Auxiliaries
Dye
Binder
Urea
Thickener
Ammonia
Quantity
10g
10g/200g
5g/200g
1g/200g
2.5g/200g
Recipe # 2
Auxiliaries
Dye
Binder
Urea
Thickener
Quantity
10g
10g/200g
5g/200g
2g/200g
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HAJVERY UNIVERSITY LAHORE
Ammonia
2.5g/200g
Textile Printing
Recipe # 3
Auxiliaries
Dye
Binder
Urea
Thickener
Ammonia
Quantity
10g
10g/200g
5g/200g
3g/200g
2.5g/200g
Recipe # 4
Auxiliaries
Dye
Binder
Urea
Thickener
Ammonia
Quantity
10g
10g/200g
5g/200g
4g/200g
2.5g/200g
Recipe # 5
Auxiliaries
Dye
Binder
Urea
Thickener
Ammonia
Quantity
10g
10g/200g
5g/200g
5g/200g
2.5g/200g
Warp (N)
693.2
722.9
678.6
708.3
701.1
Tensile Strength
Elong. %
Weft (N)
12.23
552
12.99
550.7
12.96
506.7
12.96
529.7
13.27
475.1
Elong. %
8.52
828
7.62
8.14
7.23
Tear Strength
Warp (N)
Weft (N)
6.64
7.79
7.06
8.22
7.64
7.06
7.64
7.06
7.06
8.22
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HAJVERY UNIVERSITY LAHORE
Textile Printing
5.1.2
Rubbing Fastness
Sample
1
2
3
4
5
Dry Rubbing
3
3-4
3
3
3-4
Wet Rubbing
3
1-2
1-2
1-2
1-2
Sample 1
Dry
Wet
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HAJVERY UNIVERSITY LAHORE
Textile Printing
Sample 2
Dry
Wet
Sample 3
Dry
Wet
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HAJVERY UNIVERSITY LAHORE
Textile Printing
Sample 4
Dry
Wet
Sample 5
Dry
Wet
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HAJVERY UNIVERSITY LAHORE
Textile Printing
5.1.3
Sample 1
Dry Clean
Original
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HAJVERY UNIVERSITY LAHORE
Textile Printing
Sample 2
Dry Clean
Original
72
HAJVERY UNIVERSITY LAHORE
Textile Printing
Sample 3
Dry Clean
Original
Sample 4
Dry Clean
Original
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HAJVERY UNIVERSITY LAHORE
Textile Printing
Sample 5
Dry Clean
Original
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HAJVERY UNIVERSITY LAHORE
Textile Printing
5.1.4
Washing Fastness
Multi
Fabric
Acetate
Cotton
Nylon
Polyester
Acrylic
wool
Sample 1
Sample 2
Sample 3
Sample 4
Sample 5
4-5
4-5
4-5
4-5
4-5
4-5
4-5
4
4-5
4-5
4-5
4-5
4-5
4-5
4-5
4-5
4-5
4-5
4-5
4-5
4-5
4-5
4-5
4-5
4-5
4-5
4-5
4-5
4-5
4-5
Shade
Change
Sample 1
Multi Fabric
Wash Sample
Original Sample
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HAJVERY UNIVERSITY LAHORE
Textile Printing
Sample 2
Multi fabric
Wash Sample
Original Sample
76
HAJVERY UNIVERSITY LAHORE
Sample 3
Multi Fabric
Wash Sample
Textile Printing
Original Sample
Sample 4
Multi Fabric
Wash Sample
Original Sample
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HAJVERY UNIVERSITY LAHORE
Textile Printing
Sample 5
Multi Fabric
Wash Sample
Original Sample
Dye
10g
Urea
25g
Thickener
15g/kg
Binder
50g/kg
Ammonia
12.5g/kg
Auxiliaries
Binder
Urea
Thickener
Ammonia
Textile Printing
Recipe # 1
Quantity
6g/200g
5g/200g
3g/200g
2.5g/200g
Recipe # 2
Auxiliaries
Binder
Urea
Thickener
Ammonia
Quantity
8g/200g
5g/200g
3g/200g
2.5g/200g
Recipe # 3
Auxiliaries
Binder
Urea
Thickener
Ammonia
Quantity
10g/200g
5g/200g
3g/200g
2.5g/200g
Recipe # 4
Auxiliaries
Binder
Urea
Thickener
Ammonia
Quantity
12g/200g
5g/200g
3g/200g
2.5g/200g
Recipe # 5
Auxiliaries
Binder
Urea
Thickener
Ammonia
Quantity
14g/200g
5g/200g
3g/200g
2.5g/200g
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HAJVERY UNIVERSITY LAHORE
5.2.1
Textile Printing
Sample
1
2
3
4
5
Warp (N)
715.02
720.32
730.22
732.3
735.24
Tensile Strength
Elong. %
Weft (N)
13.05
569.4
13.18
532.1
12.96
506.7
12.96
502.31
13.27
475.1
Elong. %
8.48
828
7.62
8.14
7.23
Tear Strength
Warp (N)
Weft (N)
8.22
9.36
7.06
8.22
7.64
7.06
8.25
7.06
8.40
8.22
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Textile Printing
5.2.2
Dry Rubbing
2-3
3
3
3-4
3-4
Wet Rubbing
1-2
1-2
1-2
1-2
2-3
Sample 1
Dry
Wet
Sample 2
Dry
Wet
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Sample 3
Dry
Textile Printing
Wet
Sample 4
Dry
Wet
Sample 5
Dry
Wet
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5.2.3
Textile Printing
Sample
1
2
3
4
5
Sample 1
Dry Clean Sample
Original Sample
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Textile Printing
Sample 2
Dry Clean Sample
Original Sample
Sample 3
Dry Clean Sample
Original Sample
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Textile Printing
Sample 4
Dry Clean Sample
Original Sample
Sample 5
Dry Clean Sample
Original Sample
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5.2.4
Washing Fastness
Multi
Fabric
Acetate
Cotton
Nylon
Polyester
Acrylic
Wool
Shade
Change
Textile Printing
Sample 1
Sample 2
Sample 3
Sample 4
Sample 5
4-5
4-5
4
4-5
4-5
4-5
4
4-5
4
4
4
4
4-5
4
4-5
4
4
4
4
4
4-5
4-5
4-5
4
4
4
4-5
4-5
4-5
4
4-5
3-4
4
3-4
4
Sample 1
Multi Fabric
Wash Sample
Original Sample
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Sample 2
Multi Fabric
Wash Sample
Textile Printing
Original Sample
Sample 3
Multi Fabric
Wash Sample
Original Sample
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Textile Printing
Sample 4
Multi Fabric
Wash Sample
Original Sample
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HAJVERY UNIVERSITY LAHORE
Textile Printing
Sample 5
Multi Fabric
Wash Sample
Original Sample
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Textile Printing
10g
Urea
25g
Thickener
15g/kg
Binder
50g/kg
Ammonia
12.5g/kg
Recipe/ 200 g
Dye
10g (Red KGC)
Binder ET
5g
Urea
5g
Thickener PTRV
3g
Ammonia
2.5g
Recipe # 1
Auxiliaries
Binder
Urea
Thickener
Ammonia
Quantity
6g
5g
3g
1.7g
Recipe # 2
Auxiliaries
Binder
Urea
Thickener
Ammonia
Quantity
6g
5g
3g
2.1g
Recipe # 3
Auxiliaries
Binder
Urea
Thickener
Ammonia
Quantity
6g
5g
3g
2.5g
Recipe # 4
Auxiliaries
Binder
Urea
Quantity
6g
5g
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Thickener
Ammonia
3g
2.9g
Recipe # 5
Quantity
6g
5g
3g
3.3g
Auxiliaries
Binder
Urea
Thickener
Ammonia
5.3.1
Textile Printing
Sample
1
2
3
4
5
Warp (N)
685.5
834.4
724
713
737.6
Tear Strength
Warp (N)
Weft (N)
7.64
9.36
7.79
8.22
7.64
8.79
7.64
8.79
8.22
8.22
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Textile Printing
5.3.2
Rubbing Fastness
Sample
1
2
3
4
5
Dry Rubbing
3-4
3-4
3
3-4
4
Wet Rubbing
2-3
1-2
1-2
1-2
1-2
Sample 1
Dry
Wet
Sample 2
Dry
Wet
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Textile Printing
Sample 3
Dry
Wet
Sample 4
Dry
Wet
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Sample 5
Dry
5.3.3
Textile Printing
Wet
Sample 1
Dry clean
Original
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Textile Printing
Sample 2
Dry clean
Original
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Textile Printing
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Sample 3
Textile Printing
Dry clean
Original
Dry clean
Original
Sample 4
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Textile Printing
Sample 5
Dry clean
5.3.4
Original
Washing Fastness
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Multi
Fabric
Acetate
Cotton
Nylon
Polyester
Acrylic
wool
Shade
Change
Sample 1
Sample 2
Sample 3
Sample 4
3
3
3
3
3
3
4-5
3-4
3-4
3-4
3-4
3-4
3-4
4
4
4
4
4
4
4-5
4
4
4
4
4
4
4-5
4-5
Sample
Textile5 Printing
4
4
4
4
4
4
4-5
Sample 1
Multi Fabric
Wash Sample
Original Sample
Wash Sample
Original Sample
Sample 2
Multi Fabric
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Textile Printing
Sample 3
Multi Fabric
Wash Sample
Original Sample
Sample 4
Multi Fabric
Wash Sample
Original Sample
100
Textile Printing
Sample 5
Multi Fabric
Wash Sample
Original Sample
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Textile Printing
Recipe /200g
Binder
Urea
Thickener
Ammonia
6g
25g
3g
2.5g
Recipe # 1
Auxiliaries
Binder
Urea
Thickener
Ammonia
Quantity
6g/200g
1g/200g
3g/200g
2.5g/200g
Recipe # 2
Auxiliaries
Binder
Urea
Thickener
Ammonia
Quantity
6g/200g
3g/200g
3g/200g
2.5g/200g
Recipe # 3
Auxiliaries
Binder
Urea
Thickener
Ammonia
Quantity
6g/200g
5g/200g
3g/200g
2.5g/200g
Recipe # 4
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Auxiliaries
Binder
Urea
Thickener
Ammonia
Quantity
6g/200g
7g/200g
3g/200g
2.5g/200g
Textile Printing
Recipe # 5
Auxiliaries
Binder
Urea
Thickener
Ammonia
5.4.1
Quantity
6g/200g
7g/200g
3g/200g
2.5g/200g
Sample
1
2
3
4
5
Warp (N)
715.8
696.5
741.5
690.7
716
Tensile Strength
Elong. %
Weft (N)
12.38
512.4
12.93
521.4
12.93
546.2
12.03
516
12.35
499.1
Elong. %
8.52
8.13
8.31
8.22
8.12
Tear Strength
Warp (N)
Weft (N)
7.06
8.79
7.06
8.22
7.64
8.22
8.22
8.22
8.22
8.79
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5.4.2
Rubbing Fastness
Sample
1
2
3
4
5
Textile Printing
Dry Rubbing
3-4
3-4
3
2-3
4
Wet Rubbing
1-2
1-2
1-2
1-2
1-2
Sample 1
Dry
Wet
Sample 2
Dry
Wet
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Sample 3
Dry
Textile Printing
Wet
Sample 4
Dry
Wet
Sample 5
Dry
Wet
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Textile Printing
5.4.3
Sample 1
Dry Clean
Original
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Sample 2
Textile Printing
Dry Clean
Original
Sample 3
Dry Clean
Original
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Textile Printing
Sample 4
Dry Clean
Original
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Textile Printing
Sample 5
Dry Clean
Original
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Textile Printing
5.4.4
Washing Fastness
Multi
Fabric
Acetate
Cotton
Nylon
Polyester
Acrylic
wool
Shade
Change
Sample 1
Sample 2
Sample 3
Sample 4
Sample 5
4
4
4
4
4
4
4-5
4
4
4
4
4
4
4-5
4-5
4-5
4-5
4-5
4-5
4-5
4-5
4-5
4-5
4-5
4-5
4-5
4-5
4
4-5
4-5
4-5
4-5
4-5
4-5
4-5
Sample 1
Multi Fabric
Wash Sample
Original Sample
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Textile Printing
Sample 2
Multi Fabric
Wash Sample
Multi Fabric
Wash Sample
Original Sample
Sample 3
Original Sample
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HAJVERY UNIVERSITY LAHORE
Textile Printing
Sample 4
Multi Fabric
Wash Sample
Original Sample
112
HAJVERY UNIVERSITY LAHORE
Textile Printing
Sample 5
Multi Fabric
Wash Sample
Original Sample
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HAJVERY UNIVERSITY LAHORE
Textile Printing
Testing
Methods
Procedures
6
and
eliminate dyed fibers pulled out during rubbing consider only the colorationTextile
due toPrinting
staining
by the dyestuff.
6.1.1 Dry Rubbing
With the dry rubbing cloth flat in place over the end of the finger of the testing
device , rub to and fro in a straight line along a track10cm long on the dry specimen,10 time
to and fro in 10 sec, with a downward force of 9 N. we tested the fabric dry and wet both.
6.1.2 Wet Rubbing
We adopted the same process as in case of dry rubbing but the difference is only that
we drop water on the rubbing specimen to ensure 100% pick up. After rubbing dry the cloth
at room temperature. After testing we assessed the staining of the cotton rubbing cloths (dry
and wet) with grey scale.
Gray Scale
The scale consisting of pairs of standard gray chips, the pairs representing
progressive differences in color or contrast corresponding to numerical color fastness grades
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Textile Printing
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Textile Printing
Standard: ISO13937-1
Sample Size: 63 100mm
Cut Length: 2cm
6.4.1
The average force required to propagate tearing through a specified length of plastic
film or no rigid sheeting on an Elmendorf-type tear tester.
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HAJVERY UNIVERSITY LAHORE
Textile Printing
Rectangular Specimen
The Elmendorf pendulum type ballistic tester which measures energy loss during
tearing. The tearing force is related to the energy loss by the following equation
Energy Loss = Tearing Force Distance
The apparatus is consists of a sector shaped pendulum carrying a clamp which is in
alignment with a fixed clamp when the pendulum is in the raised starting position where it
has maximum potential energy. The specimen is fastened between the two clamps and the
tear is started by a slit cut in the specimen. The pendulum is then released and the specimen
is torn as the moving jaw moves away from the fixed one. A digital meter attached to the
pendulum van be graduated to read the tear force directly.
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HAJVERY UNIVERSITY LAHORE
Textile Printing
Printing Paste
Red KGC
Binder ET
Thickener Ptrv
Liq. Ammonia
Urea
Red KGC
50 g/kg
25 g/kg
15 g/kg
12.5 g/kg
10g
10 g/200g
5 g/200g
3g/200g
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HAJVERY UNIVERSITY LAHORE
Ammonia
2.5g/200g
Textile Printing
We have taken this recipe as a standard and worked on its optimization. We have
taken each constituent five different values and according to them we checked their rubbing
fastness, washing Fastness, dry cleaning fastness, tear strength and tensile strength.
We changed the quantities of any one constituent while keeping other constituents values
constant.
Thickener as a variable
As we know that the working of thickener is thickened, to the printing paste and also
provide uniform consistency to the printing paste. That in turns makes the paste viscous and
sticky with uniform viscosity.
We observed from the recipe variation of the thickener that with the increase in its
quantity on small scale enhance the washing, rubbing and dry cleaning fastness of fabric
towards color. But this phenomenon has not prominent effect on the tear and tensile strength
of the fabric,
We have got better result for the thickener quantity in the fourth recipe, 4g per 200 g
paste proved to be the best figure. Because, the minimum requirement of the viscosity for
paste is 12000 cps. If the viscosity is recorded below this quantity the paste is not as
thickened as required and during application on the fabric the paste will penetrate in the
fabric which gives the main disadvantage of color bleeding.
On the other hand if we add the more quantity on after a specific limit it make the
paste more thickened. Then the paste is difficult to pass from the screen and it also gives
destructed effects on the fabric surface as brittleness, cracks and also enhances the cost of
the paste.
Binder as a variable
The quantity of the binder is directly linked with the washing, rubbing, dry cleaning
fastness and strength properties of fabric. According to our working on recipe evaluation,
we observed that due to the increasing the quantity of binder in the paste with other
constituents remaining constant the value of washing, rubbing, dry cleaning fastness and
strength properties increased.
The increasing quantity of the binder provides continuously the favorable conditions
for bonding of the binder with both fiber and colorant. In case, of binder we take five
different quantities of binder with the regular interval of digits. On the consideration of our
working the recipe number three proved to best one in which we used 10g per 200 g paste
than the other four. Because it highly, satisfied all the washing, rubbing, dry cleaning
fastness and strength properties. When we got the required result of each property on any
quantity we must not add any more binder because it makes us cost unconscious.
Ammonia as a variable
Ammonia swells the printing paste and in curing it evaporates leaving behind the
acidic Media. This acidic media provides the favorable condition for the binder to make
cross link. The increased quantity of the Ammonia will make paste thick which will make
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HAJVERY UNIVERSITY LAHORE
the paste difficult to pass through the screen. In our working the recipe 5 in Textile
which itPrinting
is used
3.3g for 200 g paste proved to be the best one giving optimized result of color and strength
properties.
Urea as a variable
Urea is hygroscopic in nature. It absorbs water due to Hydrogen Bonding. During
curing, it releases water and provides wet conditions or water as media which is necessary
for reaction between dye and fiber. Urea makes the fixation of the pigment efficient. By
varying the quantities of the urea we find out that the recipe three in which it is used 5g per
200g.
8 Conclusion
The optimized recipe of the pigment printing is as
Urea
5g/200g
Binder
10g/200g
Thickener
4g/200g
Ammonia
3.3g/200g
The optimized recipe gives the required result of the Rubbing fastness, Washing fastness,
Dry cleaning fastness, Tear strength and Tensile strength. The quantity of binder is that
which gives good cross linking and making the pigment resistant to rubbing, washing
fastness and tear tensile strength. this required cross linking of binder with pigment and
fiber is achieved by the required quantity of ammonia which provides the favorable
conditions to the binder to make bonding. The quantity of thickener also proves to be the
best one according to paste viscosity. This quantity gives us the optimized viscosity of paste
making it uniform and even. The quantity of urea also proves to be the best one because it
provides such moisture inn curing which makes the binder to do efficient cross linking and
increasing effectiveness of the pigment life against the washing dry cleaning agents and also
strength of the fabric.
Tensile strength(N)
weft
550.56
warp
7.60
Tear strength(n)
weft
8.25
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Textile Printing
Rubbing Fastness
Dry
3-4
Wet
2-3
Dry
Wet
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Textile Printing
Washing Fastness
Multi. Fabric
Acetate
Cotton
Nylon
Polyester
Acrylic
wool
Multi Fabric
Staining
4-5
4
4-5
4-5
4
4-5
Wash
Change of shade
4
4
4
4
4
4
Original
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Textile Printing
Dry Clean
Original
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Textile Printing
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