Drinking mate in Buenos Aires

This traditional South American beverage is a cultural cornerstone

for Argentines who drink it all day long.
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By Karina Martinez-Carter
9 April 2012

On a typical weekend day in Buenos Aires, the citys parks fill with people. Clusters of
friends sit for hours in the sun, talking, playing music, kicking around a football and
tanning. But no matter what the activity, nearly every group can be seen passing around
mate (pronounced mah-tay), a traditional South American tea.

The caffeine-packed beverage is always consumed hot and is one of the most popular
drinks in the region, especially in Argentina and Uruguay. It is made from yerba mate -green, finely chopped leaves that infuse the tea water with an earthy and slightly bitter
flavour, similar to that of green tea. Some drinkers sprinkle in sugar to cut the taste as they
would with coffee, but that added sweetness is a personal preference that some purists
consider an affront.

People of all ages drink mate, at home with family or while spending a relaxed afternoon
with friends. For many, mate also is the beverage of choice for staying alert during the
workday, as they sip on it at their desks.

Since mate preparing, drinking and sharing is an integral part of daily life in South America,
learning the customs behind sampling this local tradition is an easy way for visitors to get a
literal taste of Argentinean culture.

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How to drink mate
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To a visitor accustomed to seeing caffeinated beverages sipped from plastic toss-away

cups and steaming mugs, mate looks particularly foreign. It is a beverage for sharing and it
is served in a round, uncovered gourd that is made from a calabaza (squash) rind and
often burnished with metal detailing. The yerba mate is packed around the metal bombilla
(straw), which has a perforated base that functions also as a filter. One helping of packed
yerba yields about 10 drinks, so a thermos of hot water is always nearby to refill. Those
who are strict about their mate practices say the water should be heated to the point just
before boiling.

Since an Argentine rarely prepares mate alone, there is a particular set of social codes to
follow when enjoying the shared beverage as part of a mate circle. One person is the
server -- usually the person who owns the gourd and also prepares the mate -- and he or
she fills it for each person. Each participant drinks the full serving before passing it back to
the server. All use the same gourd and straw, and gracias is only muttered when you
have had your fill.

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Where to drink mate

Despite its popularity among locals, mate is not served at most of Buenos Aires dining
establishments. It is more of an everyday, social drink than a beverage to accompany a
meal. But a few restaurants and cafes throughout the city do serve mate for visitors who
want a sample, or for Argentines who are craving it and left their mate gear at home.

Las Cholas (Arce 306; 4899-0094), Las Cabras (Fitz Roy 1795; 5197-5301), Cuman
(Rodrguez Pea 1149; 4813-9207) and La Cholita (Rodrguez Pea 1149; 4815-4406) are
all part of a chain of tasty, low-key parrillas (steakhouses), where diners can order mate off
the menu. They also serve terer, which is the cold and less ubiquitous counterpart to
traditional mate. The steaks are juicy and priced right, and other traditional Argentine
dishes, such as locro, a thick, bean-based stew, are recommended. Mate is also on the
menu at La Gauchita, located in one of the nicest areas in town, Palermo Botnico, with
shaded, tree-lined streets and a number of embassies nearby.

But, if hunger kicks in while drinking mate, baked goods make a far better pairing with the
strong flavour of the tea.

In the Palermo Hollywood neighbourhood, Porota offers delectable passion fruit muffins
and cheese scones to accompany the hot tea beverage. Nearby Cusic also serves an
appetizing selection of pastries and snacks that pair well. Service is slow at Mama Racha
in Palermo Soho, but with its views of the bustling adjacent plaza, sitting outside with a
mate can be a pleasant way to spend the afternoon. For those wandering around in sleek
Puerto Madero, mate is available at Xcaret (Alicia Moreau de Justo 164; 4315-6260),
which also has outdoor, riverside seating.

For a full Argentinean cultural outing, La Pea del Colorado, is an amicable, multipurpose establishment that doubles as a restaurant and concert venue that also has mate
on hand to sip through the shows or at any time of the day. Races cocina casera con
historia in Nez, home to the famed River Plate soccer club and its stadium, also hosts
concerts in its restaurant space. They make their homemade pastas on Sundays and
serve mate with medialunas, flaky Argentinean pastries that taste like sweet croissants,
throughout the week.

Mate gourds, whether for regular consumption or pure decoration, are characteristic
souvenirs from the city. One can purchase mate gourds varying in size and style, including
embellishments like metalwork or carving details that incorporate iconic Argentine images
such as the flag or tango dancers, at any street fair in Buenos Aires. The weekly blockslong San Telmo Fair on Sundays always has multiple vendors, as does the Feria Plaza
Francia, the outdoor weekend fair adjacent to the Recoleta Cemetery in Plaza Francia.