Beruflich Dokumente
Kultur Dokumente
1. Storage ................................................................................................................................2
2. Greenhouse and greenhouse equipment ...............................................................................3
3. Soil and irrigation water....................................................................................................... 6
4. General cultivation procedures ............................................................................................ 8
5. Greenhouse environment.................................................................................................... 12
6. Other cultivation systems ................................................................................................... 14
7. Harvesting and post harvest treatment ................................................................................ 18
8. Planning and labour ...........................................................................................................20
9. Crop protection and disease control.................................................................................... 21
10. Selection of cultivars ........................................................................................................28
1. Storage
To ensure satisfactory long term storage of lilies, frozen lilies should be packed in plastic film
plus slightly moist peat or potting compost. Lilies delivered in a frozen state can continue to be
stored, provided this is done at the right temperature. It is still possible to freeze newly harvested
bulbs not delivered in a frozen state up to the 15th of January. Lilies which were previously frozen
cannot be re-frozen as frost damage will certainly occur but the degree of damage depends on
the type of cultivar, time of the year and the length of time unfrozen.
During the freezing process bulbs, irrespective of where they are located in the box or stack, must
be frozen to the right temperature in a relatively short space of time (7 to 10 days). The cold store
should therefore meet a number of requirements.
In the Netherlands these are as follows:
walls must have an insulation level of 0.3 Watt/m2/Kelvin
the cold store must have a cooling capacity of 30-60 Watt per m3 cold store volume
automatic, slow-speed ventilators must be installed
there must be adequate space between the boxes/stacks of boxes in the cold store
there must be consistent air circulation through-out the cold store.
It is particularly important to maintain a uniform temperature throughout the entire cold store.
Minor differences in temperature can cause frost damage or shoots to develop.
Bulbs are frozen and stored at the following store temperatures:
Asiatic - 2.5C
Oriental - 1.5C
Longiflorum hybrids - 1.5C
L/A hybrids - 2.5C
Bulbs of Asiatic hybrids can be stored for up to a year without showing any detorioration in
quality. Bulbs stored for a longer period will develop more rapidly, plants will be smaller and
fewer buds will develop.
Oriental and Longiflorum hybrids cannot be stored for such a long period. From July onwards,
depending on seasonal conditions and the cultivar, there is a risk that storage problems, such as
shoot formation and frost damage will occur.
Lilies which have not been frozen can only be stored for a short period. The storage duration
depends on the storage temperature and the time of year. This means for example, that fresh
bulbs can be stored longer in temperatures above freezing point during January and February
than they can in the autumn. On average, bulbs can be stored at a temperature of approx. 1C for
a maximum of 2 weeks and at 5C for a maximum of 1 week.
of plastic film, will cause a considerable loss of light penetration into the greenhouse.
Furthermore it is advisable to use during the winter months cultivars less susceptible to a lack of
light and to plant bulbs wider apart.
The minimum light density in the greenhouse for Asiatic hybrids is 300 wh/m2 or 190
Joules/cm2/day (PAR = Photo synthetically Active Radiation). However, should daylight need to
be supplemented with assimilation lighting this should begin from the 1 cm - 2 cm bud stage.
The table sets out for each lily group the periods in which natural light is insufficient, the number
of lighting hours needed per day and the cultivation phase during which assimilation lighting is
required.
Usually assimilation lighting is provided by using one 400 Watt SON-T-lamp fitted with special
reflectors per 10 m2. For additional information on these lamps, please consult your local
information advisory service or your supplier.
Greenhouse equipment: Day length lighting
Light, in the form of day length, affects the flowering of the lily. Flowering can be brought forward
(advanced) with some lily cultivars by artificially extending the day length during periods when
days are short.
Artificial extension of day length is only recommended for spring cultivation with new crop bulbs.
Used in autumn it will shorten the cultivation period but because of the fast development of lilies
their stems will not be strong enough.
The group of cultivars which benefits from extended daylength can be found among the Oriental
hybrids and are characterized by a cultivation period lasting more than 100 days for spring
cultivation with fresh bulbs.
From the time 50% of the shoots have emerged, lilies are exposed to daylength lasting up to 16
hours, continued for 6 weeks or until the flower buds in the closed inflorescence are just visible.
Daylight extension, using light bulbs (with approx. 20 Watt/m2 installed power) is given
immediately before natural daylight begins. It is also possible to use Cyclic lighting (10 minutes
of light, 10 minutes of dark) but the results are less successful.
Daylight extension permits earlier marketing of Oriental hybrids which benefit from this treatment
than other lilies in the spring. However they could be somewhat shorter and there is a greater risk
of bud drop.
When natural daylength lasts for 16 hours or longer there is really no point in providing day
length lighting as the benefits are so small.
Greenhouse
Greenhouse equipment: Screening equipment
From the viewpoint of climate control and for energy-saving in the winter it is advisable to use
screening equipment. A mobile screen that does not exclude too much light is ideal. Particularly
during spring, autumn and winter in the crops light sensitive phase it enables optimum use to be
made of natural light under poor light conditions. It is better to apply or install fixed shading in
the form of a layer of chalk painted on the greenhouse roofing or shade cloths (preferably on the
outside of the greenhouse) when light conditions remain above the minimum amount required.
Remove shading on time in the autumn. Fixed shading can also be used during the first three
weeks after planting.
Preferably use shades which allow humidity penetration.
exceed 50 mg/l. If the salt or chlorine levels are higher, then the soil should be well flooded
beforehand with suitable water. Make sure the soil is flooded thoroughly before cultivation as
this will prevent deterioration of the soil structure.
When using fresh organic fertilizer ensure salt levels are not too high and do not use large
quantities of artificial fertilizer at the same time.
Fertilizer base dressing
To obtain adequate information on the soils nutrient status it is essential to take soil samples
well before the start of the growing period. Depending on the soils structure, nutrient condition
and salt level, well decomposed organic compounds, such as 1 m3 well-rotted cow manure per
100 m2, can be worked thoroughly through the soil well before planting. Fresh farmyard manure
usually has excess salt levels. So be careful with fresh manure as it can quickly cause root
scorch. On heavier and more humus-rich soils, the use of farmyard manure often has an adverse
effect on the structure of the soil because it causes compaction. It is therefore advisable to use
peat compost or similar products. Sand or drift sand (lava sand) are also used occasionally. Lilies
do not need a high nutrient level and this is certainly true during the first three weeks of
cultivation. Good root development with no salt damage is more important at this stage.
It is however advisable to apply phosphate and potash in the form of straight fertilizers on
nutrient deficient soils (see result of soil analysis), as it will not be possible to apply these
compounds during cultivation, given that lilies are very susceptible to fluorine which causes leaf
scorch, (particularly on soils with a low pH). Fluoride retaining fertilizers such as super and triple
super phosphate and a number of compound fertilizers should not be used. It is much preferable
to use fluorine-deficient fertilizers such as dicalcium phosphate.
Irrigation water
The salt level (EC) of irrigation water contributes to the total salt level of the soil and should
therefore also be low: 0.5 mS/cm or lower. With an EC of approx. 0.1, rain water complies with
this level. The EC of spring or surface water, when used extensively or during the summer
months, can increase considerably. The maximum acceptable chlorine level of irrigation water
used for greenhouse irrigation is 50 mg.
Needless to say, carrying out regular checks on salt and chlorine levels should not be considered
a waste of time. If irrigating with water which exceeds these levels the soil should be kept
constantly moist to prevent an increase in salt concentrations which can occur if the soil
becomes too dry.
4. General cultivation
cultivation procedures
On arrival
Immediately on arrival, bulbs should be planted in moist soil. Bulbs which are not frozen (new
crop December-January-February) and defrosted bulbs should be planted on the same or the
following day.
Frozen bulbs should be slowly defrosted (do not place in the sun) at a temperature of 10C to
15C with the plastic packaging opened up. Defrosting at higher temperatures results in quality
loss. Once bulbs have been defrosted they cannot be refrozen because of the risk of frost
damage. If it is not possible to plant non-frozen and defrosted bulbs they can be stored for a
maximum of 2 weeks at +0C to +2C or for 1 week at +2C to +5C with the plastic open. Higher
storage temperatures and longer storage periods cause unwanted shoot development and, if
bulbs have been badly packed, bulb desiccation, resulting in shorter stems and fewer flower
bulbs.
Another important point to remember is that box temperatures can rapidly increase to far above
the temperature inside the storage owing to accelerated bulb respiration.
Bulb size
It is better to use the smallest recommended bulb size for the various lily groups when conditions
are favorable i.e. during a period with sufficiently low temperatures for plants at the development
stage e.g. when planting in December through to March. In light deficient periods a slightly
smaller (+wider planting) and during a high temperature period a larger bulb size should be used.
Note that there is a greater risk of leaf scorch when using larger bulb sizes of certain cultivars
among the Asiatic and Oriental hybrid groups.
The choice of bulb size also depends on the required flower quantity. As a general rule, the
smaller the bulb the less buds per stem, and the shorter the stem the lighter the plant will be.
The table below shows the range of bulb sizes for each lily group.
Bulb size per group
Asiatic hybrids 9-10 cm, 10-12 cm,12-14 cm, 14-16 cm,16 cm and higher
Oriental hybrids 12-14 cm, 14-16 cm, 16-18 cm, 18-20, 20-22 cm and 22 cm and higher
Longiflorum hybrids 10-12 cm, 12-14 cm,14-16 cm, 16 cm and higher
L/A hybrids 10-12 cm, 12-14 cm,14 cm and higher
Cultivation site
Lilies are grown in glass or plastic houses, either direct in the border soil or in boxes. This
ensures crops are not affected by unfavorable weather conditions and the environment can be
controlled.
Outdoor cultivation of lilies is only possible in regions where the climate remains favorable
during the cultivation period. It is necessary for growers to realize the risks involved in outdoor
cultivation, especially strong winds, hail, periods of frost and a high humidity (Botrytis).
Outdoor cultivation demands particularly strong, moisture-retaining and well-drained soils plus
a good irrigation system, and wind and shade screens. These are needed to achieve sufficiently
long stems during the summer months. The choice of cultivar (long-stemmed cultivars) is also
vital.
Nutrition
Nitrogen should be applied to both nutrient-rich and impoverished soils in the ratio of 1 kg of
calcium nitrate per 100 m2, three weeks after planting.
If plants are weak during the growing period due to nitrogen deficiency, then a top dressing of 1
kg of quick-release nitrogen per 100 m2 can be applied up to three weeks before harvesting.
The dressing can be applied either through the irrigation system or by hand between dry plants.
To prevent leaf scorch when applying via the irrigation system, wash off the crop well with clean
water after the nitrogen application.
Based on pratical experience and test results, target standards for lilies have been developed in
order to achieve acceptable crop growth and flowering.
Mineral fertilizers may be scattered between the crop by hand. However, to minimize leaf scorch
it is better to distribute the fertilizer by means of an irrigation system. Liquid fertilizer may be
made up from water-soluble nutrients without residue agents. The second table shows the
standard nutrient solutions suitable for lilies. To prevent leaf scorch, rinse with clean water after
applying the nutrient solution.
Watering
Moisten the soil a few days before planting to enable rooting to start straight after planting.
Water copiously several times directly after planting to prevent the soil collapsing or deteriorating
and to allow the bulbs and the bulb roots to be in close contact with the soil. Check!
Because the stem roots develop in the top layer it must be kept constantly moist. However too
much moisture should be avoided as this will have a detrimental effect on the oxygen supply to
the roots which in turn will adversely affect the root function. The amount of water depends on
the type of soil, the greenhouse climate, the cultivar, the development of the crop and the salt
level of the soil. During dry periods, water consumption could increase to 8 to 9 litres per m2
daily. A good way to check the correct moisture level of the soil is to squeeze some soil in your
hand. An indication of the correct moisture level is if it is almost impossible to squeeze moisture
from the soil at the same time the soil stays balled. Regularly check the irrigation systems
water distribution.
The best time for watering is early in the morning so that the crop will be dry by the evening. If
necessary turn up the heating or ventilate to prevent Botrytis disease.
Weed control
Do not use herbicides for weed control unless this is absolutely necessary. Far better to remove
all weeds or to sterilize the soil before planting by steaming or inundating it. The use of
herbicides always involves a risk of damage.
After the emergence of shoots but before the foliage opens up significantly, small weeds can be
controlled, in the greenhouse or in the field, by spraying with a suitable herbicide. If much annual
meadow grass is present which is not controlled by one herbicide, a combination of herbicides
should be used.
Always spray towards the evening on a dry crop using 5 litres of water per 100 m2. The following
morning, rinse off the crop thoroughly by means of irrigation. Because of the persistence of
herbicides, keep the following points in mind: limit spraying frequency to no more than twice a
year on the same site, always apply site by site, and check for damage in succeeding crops.
Further information on the use of herbicides is available from your local information office.
Crop control
It is essential to regularly check the crop and at the same time the soil. The points to pay
attention to are:
soil: dry areas, EC, structure, weed growth, temperature
crop: stage of growth, color, aphids, thrips
Botrytis, Pythium greenhouse: climate, plant support.
5. Greenhouse environment
Temperature: Introduction
A good root system is of paramount importance in achieving a high quality product as far as lily
cultivation is concerned. With this in mind, the optimum recommendation would be for a low,
initial (rooting) temperature of between 12C to 13C for the first third of the growing cycle or at
least until the stem roots have developed. Lower initial temperatures will extend the growing
period unnecessarily and temperatures higher than 15C will result in a poorer quality product.
Soil cooling could be indispensable during the warmer months. Cooling should be reduced very
gradually after 1/3 of the growing cycle is over.
Temperature: Asiatic hybrids
To obtain the best quality, a daily temperature of 14C to 15C should be maintained for the
remainder of the growing period. During the day, the sun may cause the temperature to rise to
20C, possibly to 25C, and the temperature at night may drop to between 8C to 10C (make
sure the environment is not too moist), which is acceptable. This is one way to save energy
during the spring and autumn, provided the crop quality and the speed of growth remain
constant. To obtain longer stems or to prevent bud drop it is sensible to lower the temperature
from 14C/15C by 1C to 1.5C if cultivars are too short or if production is in poor light periods.
Temperature: Oriental hybrids
After the rooting period, the optimum daily greenhouse temperature is between 15C to 17C. It
should be noted that only increases in temperature are acceptable to 20C-22C, possibly to
25C. Temperatures below 15C can result in bud drop and yellowing of foliage.
Temperature: Longiflorum hybrids
The best greenhouse temperature for these lilies after rooting is a temperature of 14C to 16C.
The sun may also increase the temperature for these lilies and a temperature of 20C to 22C is
acceptable.
Under poor light conditions, the greenhouse temperature may be reduced by 1C to 1.5C.
A minimum day and night temperature of 14C must be maintained to prevent discoloring and
splitting of the flower petals.
Temperature: General information
During late autumn, winter and early spring it is not normally difficult to maintain the abovementioned greenhouse temperatures. However the opposite is true for the summer months. Even
before planting but also during cultivation it will be necessary to ventilate, screen and use cold
water to maintain the recommended temperatures. High temperatures produce reduced stem
length and fewer buds per stem.
Relative humidity
A suitable relative humidity level is between 80% to 85%. It is important to avoid large
fluctuations in levels and any changes should occur gradually. Rapid changes cause stress which
could result in leaf scorch in susceptible cultivars. Use screening, prompt ventilation and
watering to prevent these problems.
It is not advisable to suddenly ventilate during the day on very warm days or very cold days
(freezing open weather) when the relative humidity of the outdoor air is very low; it is better to
ventilate early in the morning when the relative humidity outdoors is higher. Watering copiously
during the day with a low relative humidity level inside the greenhouse is not the right thing to do
either. Watering early in the morning is the best time to water in these conditions.
In mild, poor light, calm or damp weather conditions, relative humidity is often very high and
measures will have to be taken to decrease the r.h. by heating and ventilating simultaneously.
Ventilation
Ventilating is an extremely important factor when considering temperature control and
decreasing air humidity levels. An important point to remember here is that air humidity levels
inside the greenhouse must not drop too quickly as a rapid withdrawal of moisture can result in
leaf scorch and quality loss.
Screening
The use of screens can affect temperature levels, air humidity levels and light conditions inside
the greenhouse. During months of high light intensity, temperatures inside the greenhouse can
rise dramatically in spite of ventilation. In conditions like this it will be necessary to screen to
prevent a poor quality crop. For further information see Lighting equipment and Screening
equipment.
During summer months in countries with a high light intensity, growers can reduce light level by
50% for Asiatic and Longiflorum hybrids and 70% for Oriental hybrids.
CO2
CO2 has a positive effect on the growth and flowering of lilies. Try to achieve a concentration of
800 to 1000 ppm. A higher concentration ( 2000 ppm) is needed for the Longiflorum hybrids as
this group uses high levels of CO2.
Outdoor cultivation:
cultivation: Planting method
It is preferable to use the larger bulb sizes (taller plants) provided the cultivar is not susceptible
to leaf scorch. This also applies to long-term crop cultivation as this ensures good stem quality in
subsequent years. If bulbs are planted during warm weather, there will be a greater chance of
bulbs producing double noses the following year. This depends on the cultivar and bulb size, as
bigger bulbs are more likely to produce double noses. Outdoors bulbs are planted with 10 to 15
cm of soil on top of the bulbs. Plant density depends on the number of years the crop will be
grown. For one-year cultivation, plant density should be 10% higher and with long-term
cultivation the density should be 15% to 20% lower as indicated for greenhouse cultivation per
cultivar, bulb size and time of year.
Outdoor cultivation: Other cultivation procedures
Nutrition is similar to that for greenhouse cultivation. If artificial fertilizers cannot be applied
through the irrigation system during cultivation, an increased quantity of base dressing or a slowrelease fertilizer will have to be applied provided salt levels in the soil will allow it.
If possible, crops should be shaded during cultivation to improve crop length and crop quality.
Particular attention will have to be paid to the control of Botrytis, aphids and virus diseases
during cultivation.
For long-term cultivation, a healthy cultivar and also the demand for a particular cultivar will be
vital factors in determining profits. If neither of these factors are present cultivation should be
discontinued.
Pot lilies: Introduction
Besides production for the cut flower trade, the cultivation of pot lilies for use indoors, on the
patio or the garden can also be an extremely viable option. Up until recently shorter cut lilies
were used for this. By using chemical growth regulators such as paclobutrazol (Bonzi) and
ancymidol (Reducymol), applied by watering onto the pot, spraying the foliage or by immersing
bulbs, lilies were kept short with an optimum stem length of 30 cm to 40 cm. However, results
were extremely variable depending on a large number of factors such as the growing period, the
substrate used, the cultivation temperature and the cultivar qualities. Nowadays there are a large
number of genetically short lilies (see table) in a wide variety of colors available for continious
cultivation and growth regulators no longer need to be used. Pot cultivation is very similar to cut
flower cultivation. The specific cultivation procedures are as follows:
Pot lilies: Planting method
A number of bulb sizes can be used for pot lilies; the most suitable are listed in the table,
although this always depends on the total foliage volume of the cultivar. Furthermore the table
compares the various lily groups and the number of bulbs needed per pot. The bulb size chosen
must meet the required minimum number of buds per pot, also listed in the table. The table also
indicates the bulb sizes required per pot for planting 1,3 or 5 bulbs per pot.
Larger bulb sizes should be chosen for the following: double nosed bulbs, bulbs planted in
summer, Longiflorum hybrids planted in the autumn and bulbs to be grown with the aid of
assimilation lamps.
The best choice of substrate to use in pots is a disease-free, moisture retentive, light medium
with a pH between 6 and 7. Potting compost (see Box cultivation, sub-heading: Substrate)
supplemented by 30% drift sand or perlite (fluorine free) is very suitable for use in pots. Add a
base dressing of 1 to 1.5 kg Osmocote 14-14-14 and 1 to 2 kg sulphate of potash-magnesia per
m3. Bulbs should be planted at the bottom of the pot on a 1 cm layer of potting compost and, if 2
or more bulbs are planted per pot, the bulb noses should face the out sided of the pot. Top up
with potting soil. After planting, ensure that the substrate is thoroughly moist.
Pot lilies: Cultivation procedures
Keep the substrate in the pot reasonably moist. There is a chance of yellow foliage occurring
during the growing period. This can be caused by the habit of the cultivar, poor light conditions
(too many pots per m2), a crop which is grown under too moist conditions or Pythium attack.
For the optimum greenhouse climate you are referred to the relevant chapter for cut flower lilies.
Research has shown that by maintaining an increased night-time temperature, compared to the
daytime temperature, a shorter stem can be achieved. This method is known as the Dif-method. If
possible, the daytime temperature can be lowered compared to the nighttime temperature.
Reducing the day-time temperature during the first two hours after sunrise compared to the same
reduction in temperature during the rest of the day has an enormous effect on the development
of the stem length (reduced stem length). When applying this technique, you should realise that
for a plant the day begins at sunrise and ends at sunset but the effects of changing weather
conditions should also be considered.
Pot lilies: Harvesting and post harvest treatment
Pot lilies are marketed when the lower buds show sufficient color. The distribution chain should
be kept as short as possible to prevent bud drop as a result of poor light. It is unacceptable to
dispatch lilies at an earlier stage of development due to increased susceptibility to lack of light.
To guarantee good appearance of the pot lilies, it is important to make sure pots are clean before
are dispatch and that sufficient water has been given. If necessary any yellow leaves should be
removed. Provide pots with a label displaying a product photograph plus tips for consumers and
ensure that pot lilies are attractively sleeved.
Avoid storing pot lilies in a cold store; if lilies must be placed in cold store ensure the duration is
as short as possible. The minimum temperature should be +5C, both in the cold store and
during transportation. It is possible to store Asiatic hybrids at a temperature of +3C.
Although these temperatures do not stop flower development, lower temperatures can cause
insufficient opening of the flower buds once bought by consumers.
When lilies have absorbed sufficient quantities of water they can be stored dry in the cold store
room, although it is better to continue storage in clean water.
The optimum storage temperature of cut lilies is 2C to 3C and storage time should be kept as
short as possible. It is a well-known fact that the Oriental hybrid Star Gazer will show brown
spots on the outside of the petals if harvested at a greenhouse temperature of 30C or higher and
subsequently stored at 2C to 3C. In these conditions it is advisable to store at a temperature of
at least 4C.
Dispatch
Before dispatch, lilies are packed into perforated boxes to prevent high concentrations of
ethylene produced by the open flowers.
The ethylene gas causes rapid maturity which shows as miserable flowers, bud drop and reduced
keeping quality.
During packaging make sure the stems are put into the box in a dry state as this will prevent over
heating and development of fungi. It is essential that lilies are transported at low temperatures,
preferably in refrigerated vehicles (+2C to +3C) as this will prevent flower bud development and
also the harmful effects of ethylene. During long-haul transportation, it is certainly advisable to
pre-cool the boxes before they are dispatched.
On arrival at the wholesalers or retailers, after stems have been cut again, lilies should be
placed in clean water at a storage temperature of 1C to 5C.
Prevent the crop from remaining wet for long periods after watering
Maintain the lowest possible soil temperature during the summer months.
Cause
Fire is mainly caused by Botrytis elliptica. In moist conditions, Botrytis elliptica develops
spores which are rapidly spread by wind and rain to neighbouring plants. Spores do not
germinate on dry plants, which do not therefore become infected.
Control
Keep the crop dry by adopting the following practices:
a. space the crops more widely in wet seasons
b. control weed growth
c. water in the mornings, ventilate and heat a little at the same time. Ensure that the crop dries
quickly.
When an infection is suspected (in wet periods), spray frequently with alternating Botrytis
fungicides in the early stages.
Spray with a fungus-controlling fungicide before flowering, but make sure it does not
leave any visible residues or depost.
Carefully remove all plant remains after cropping.
Damage by pests: Aphids
The lower leaves develop normally in infested plants. The upper leaves curl at an early stage of
development and are deformed. The aphids only live on young leaves, particularly on the
underside. The yound buds can also become damaged, resulting in the appearance of green
spots and flowers can be partially deformed.
Cause
The infestation is caused by aphids sucking cell sap. Various aphids can be found on lilies
including Neomyzus circumflexus.
Control
Control weeds which often act as host for aphids.
Spray crops weekly with an insecticide if the presence of aphids has been established,
alternating products to prevent resistance.
If necessary, fumigate the crop shortly before harvest as this will prevent unslightly
residues on the flower buds. A greenhouse temperature above 14C for the first 5 hours is
needed for this. Crops should be dry
To avoid aphids becoming resistant, alternate insecticides.
Abnormalities: Leaf scorch
Leaf scorch occurs at a time when flower buds are not yet visible. First of all, the young leaves
curl slightly inward and then a few days later greenish-yellow to whitish spots appear on the
scorched leaves.
If the leaf scorch is mild, plants will continue to grow normally but if plants are badly scorched
the white spots can turn brown in places and the leaf will bend where the damage has occured.
In very severe cases all leaves plus the tender young buds will be lost. Plants will then fail to
develop futher. This is known as top scorching.
Cause
Leaf scorch occurs when there is a disturbance in the balance between the absorption and
evaporation of water. This is a result of inadequate absorption or evaporation which causes a
calcium deficiency in the cells of the youngest leaves. Cells are destroyed and die. An abrupt
change in the relative humidity inside the greenhouse can substantially affect this process as
does a poor root system. High salt levels in the soil and plant growth which is too rapid compared
to the size of the root system are also factors. Susceptibility varies greatly with cultivar (see
Selection) and bulb size. Large bulbs are more susceptible than smaller ones.
Control
Diseases and pests which could damage the roots should be effectively controlled
Soil should be moistened before planting
It is better not to use susceptible cultivars but if this cannot be avoided do not use larger
bulbs as these are extra sensitive
Plant bulbs with a good root system
Plant to an adequate depth, i.e. allow 6 cm - 10 cm of soil on top of the bulb
Prevent large differences in greenhouse temperatures and air humidity levels during
periods of increased susceptibility. Try to maintain an R.H. level of approx. 75%.
Rapid growth must be prevented. Therefore for susceptible Asiatic hybrids maintain a
greenhouse temperature of 10C-12C for the first 4 weeks and for the Oriental hybrids a
temperature of approx. 15C for the first 6 weeks. Therefore box cultivation with the use of
a rooting room is advisable
Ensure that plants maintain even transpiration and avoid excess transpiration by
shading, and during clear weather conditions lightly spray with water a few times a day.
Abnormalities: Bud drop and bud desiccation
Bud drop can occur from the time flower buds reach a length of 1 cm-2 cm. Buds turn light green
in color and, at the same time, a constriction of the flower stalk junction with the stem occurs.
Buds will subsequentely drop off. In spring, the lower buds are the first to be affected while the
higher buds drop first in the autumn. Bud desiccation can occur during all stages of
development. Buds turn completely white and dry out. These dried buds sometimes fall off.
Should bud desiccation occur during the initial stages of development these will later appear as
minute white spots in the leaf axils.
Cause
Bud drop occurs when plants receive insufficient light. In light deficient conditions the stamens
in the bud produce ethylene causing the buds to abort.
There is an increased risk of bud desiccation if rooting conditions are poor, e.g. too dry soil.
Control
Do not allow cultivars susceptible to bud drop to grow in poor light conditions
To prevent bud desiccation, bulbs should not be allowed to dry out during planting.
Ensure that bulbs root well and grow in the most favorable conditions possible,
particularly as far as lighting and transpiration are concerned.
Nutrient deficiencies: Iron deficiency
The leaf tissue between the veins of the young leaves is yellowish-green, particularly in rapidly
growing plants. The greater the iron deficiency the more yellow the plant will become.
Cause
This abnormality occurs especially in calcium rich soils (high pH) and on light, silt soils or on
sites with excess water. It can also occur if soil temperatures are too low. The deficiency is
caused by a lack of plant absorbable iron. If only slight yellowing occurs it usually dissapears by
harvest.
The susceptible lily groups include the Oriental and Longiflorum hybrids and the cultivar
Connecticut King.
Control
Ensure that the soil is well drained with a sufficiently low pH (see pH). A good root system
also greatly reduces the risk of iron deficiency
Depending on the susceptibility of the crop to iron deficiency, iron chelate should be
added to soils with a pH higher than 6.5 before planting and, depending on the color of
the crop, a second application after planting. If the color of the plant is still not
satisfactory, another application can be given after approx. 2 weeks
With pH levels between 5.5-6.5, iron chelate should only be applied once or twice after
planting depending on the color of the crop, to cultivars susceptible to iron deficiency
The quantity of iron chelate to be applied depends on the pH of the soil and the time of
application. An iron chelate where the iron is bound to the organic compound EDDHA can
be used, even in soils with a pH of 12 (all soils) and can continue to be applied right up to
the last stages of cultivation. If the iron is bound to the organic compound DTPA then iron
chelate can only be used in soils with a pH of 7 and can be applied until the flower buds
are visible. An excess of Fe-DTPA can cause black spots to occur on the foliage
The dosage should be 2 g. - 3 g./m2 before planting (worked thoroughly into the soil) and
a max. of 2 g. after planting, using a max of 1-1,5 g/m2 if a second application is needed
The chelate can be applied either via the irrigation system or by hand mixed with dry sand
To prevent leaf scorch, the chelate should be applied in the early evening to a moist crop
when weather conditions are dull. Thorough washing off is essential
Use or make sure to use a test application of iron chelate when applying to new cultivars!
Nutrient deficiencies: Nitrogen deficiency
Nitrogen deficiency results in the whole leaf becoming lighter in color and this is often more
noticeable when plants are about to bloom. The plant often seems rather slight in appearance.
Soils with a low nitrogen level produce a crop with stems which are lighter in weight and have
less flower buds. Post-harvest foliage will turn yellow more quickly.
Control
Always apply sufficient quantities of nitrogen, preferably based on the results of a soil
sample
If a nitrogen deficiency is diagnosed during cultivation apply an additional application of
rapid-action nitrogen fertilizer. However, bear the risk of leaf scorch in mind during
application and make sure the crop is always washed off thoroughly.
Color.
There is an extensive range of colors among Asiatic hybrids. However the range is more
limited when it comes to the other groups
Length.
Extra length is often financially rewarding. However long cultivars are more likely to be
susceptible to light deficient conditions and require a longer growing period, making
them less suitable for winter cultivation, whereas short cultivars are too short in the
summer. Short lilies are the only cultivars used for pot lilies
Growing period.
For a good programming schedule it is vital to have information on the growing period.
The growing periods shown in the tables are based on spring cultivation plus a
greenhouse temperature of approx. 14C. During the summer, the growing period will be
considerably shorter but will become increasingly longer in the autumn. During the early
spring period, old harvest bulbs are used instead of new harvest bulbs because old bulbs
come into flower more quickly and flower more evenly.
Number of buds and presentation.
A minimum requirement of the Asiatic and Oriental hybrids is the presence of five buds
on every cut stem. If the buds are extremely large, then 3-4 buds per stem will be
sufficient. Presentation is also important. Cultivars with smooth buds that are large and
well colored at the closed bud stage are preferred. Too much foliage which hides the
flowers is less acceptable
Sturdiness.
The firmness of stems can vary a great deal with each cultivar. The time of year is also
significant in determining how firm stems will be. Less sturdy cultivars will develop stems
which are too weak when growing during the autumn and winter.
Susceptibility.
Some cultivars e.g. Connecticut King, Sterling Star, Star Gazer can be susceptible to leaf
scorch. Smaller bulbs are less susceptible. Cultivars from the Oriental hybrid group,
Longiflorum hybrid groups and the cultivar Connecticut King are susceptible to iron
deficiency.
Light susceptibility.
Cultivars susceptible to bud drop should not be planted when the bud development
stage is reached during the dark winter months and should certainly not be planted in a
heavily shaded greenhouse or where light admission is poor due to old or dirty plastic
film.
Keeping quality and vase life.
The keeping quality and vase life is a very important point to consider when selecting
cultivars. Although it is not prohibited to grow cultivars which have a short vase life, it is
advisable (especially bearing customer satisfaction in mind) to select cultivars which are
long lasting. Yellowing of foliage and buds which do not open satisfactorily are frequently
occurring factors which reduce the ornamental value of lilies.
The position of the flower.
Most Asiatic hybrids have erect flower buds. In other groups there are quite a number of
cultivars with pendulous or lateral flower buds. Seen from a labour viewpoint there are
some disadvantages to these cultivars as far as harvesting, grading, bunching and
transporting the flowers are concerned. The market potential for cultivars with pendulous
or lateral flower buds is smaller.
Bulb size.
With each cultivar a choice must be made from the various bulb sizes available. Larger
bulb sizes generally produce longer and heavier stems with more flower buds and will
flower somewhat earlier. However planting density will have to be reduced to obtain
optimum cultivation results.
Selection
The Manual, part 2 deals with specific characteristics and cultivation dates. It discusses the lily
cultivars according to lily groups for cut-flower and pot plant production. Based on this
information the flower grower can make an informed choice.