GLAM

SOCIAL MEDIA

SINDHU NAIR
FASHION EDITOR DEBRINA ALIYAH

DEPUTY EDITOR EZDHAR IBRAHIM ALI

SENIOR CORRESPONDENT AYSWARYA MURTHY

SPECIAL CORRESPONDENT AARTHI MOHAN
PHOTOGRAPHER
ROBERT ALTAMIRANO

SUB EDITOR SHELLEY KNIPE

MANAGING EDITOR

SENIOR ART DIRECTOR

DEPUTY ART DIRECTOR

ASSISTANT ART DIRECTOR

SENIOR GRAPHIC DESIGNER

VENKAT REDDY
HANAN ABU SIAM
AYUSH INDRAJITH
MAHESHWAR REDDY B

FREDRICK ALPHONSO

MANAGER MARKETING SAKALA A DEBRASS

ASSISTANT MANAGER MARKETING HASSAN REKKAB

MATHEWS CHERIAN

SONY VELLATT
A H M IRFAN

SENIOR MEDIA CONSULTANT DENZITA SEQUEIRA

ASSISTANT EVENTS MANAGER JASMINE VICTOR

BUSINESS HEAD

PRATAP CHANDRAN

SENIOR DISTRIBUTION EXECUTIVE BIKRAM SHRESTHA

DISTRIBUTION SUPPORT ARJUN TIMILSINA

BHIMAL RAI

BASANTHA P

SENIOR ACCOUNTANT

PUBLISHER AND EDITORINCHIEF

CHIEF EXECUTIVE

EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT

Cala Mari launches their new campaign with a

fun stop motion video featuring Doha-based
bloggers Eat Sleep Be Fancy, Vaninita and
Bonjour Chiara. The campaign introduces new
additions to the labels collection, the Cala Del
Ray clutch and tote bag. Shot at the W Doha
Hotel & Residences, the campaign features the
bloggers playing with the clutches while
roaming all over the hotel. The film is shot and
edited by Jan Xavier Pacle with music by Karl
Mallari. Check out the full collection of videos
on https://youtube.com/user/calathemari/videos

EVENTS OF THE MONTH

Dubai Music Week 2015
September 23rd to 26th
DMW 2015, in partnership with Dubai World
Trade Center (DWTC) and Live Nation Middle
East, supported by Dubais Department of
Tourism and Commerce Marketing are proud
to mark Dubais calendar with this
international music festival for the Middle
East. The festival will feature four main
segments, including concerts with an
award-winning line-up of A-list performers,
celebrity guest speakers, master classes and
an interactive entertainment village. Ellie
Goulding and Thirty Seconds to Mars are
some of the big names that will take the stage
at the festival. www.dubaimusicweek.ae

COMING UP

YOUSUF JASSEM AL DARWISH

SANDEEP SEHGAL
ALPANA ROY

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With 3D-printed jackets, medieval capes and boys

dressed as girls, the haute couture collections
were a fantastical parade. Next month, we bring
the highlights from Christian Diors old Flemish
influences to Elie Saabs Byzantine gold pieces.
Image: Chanel Haute Couture AW2015.

G Talk
While we were dashing away from the desert heat in the last two months, something
momentous happened across the ocean in the city of New York. The first ever menswear
fashion week took place under the umbrella of the Council of Fashion Designers of America
(CFDA) as an addition to the already established Pitti Immagine in Florence and Pitti Uomo
in Milan. The becoming of the stylish urban man is for one, a profitable proposition for the
industry, but second, it is a sign of the new generations pursuit of individual style.
The exciting moment for us, while reviewing the thousands of looks intended for men, was
recognising how well these pieces would look in our own wardrobes. The bomber jackets,
the slouchy pants, the perfectly tailored shirts, and even the stiff formal tuxedo jackets,
would fit in into our rotation of outfits. In fact, if you were to take the runway models
gender out of the equation, there is no obvious distinction of sex-appropriate clothing
for some of the collections. The rise of a gender-free era in fashion has been brewing
steadily in the past decade: men are embracing tight-fitting silhouettes that nip at the
waist and hemmed capris with sandals, while women look glorious in three-piece suits.
Our fashion editor, a prime example, is a big fan of shopping for sweaters and shirts in the
mens department.
This is a different movement from androgynous dressing, as there is no desire to look
like the opposite gender, but rather it is a convergence of fashion trends and its norms.
Consider that at one end of the spectrum is the highly traditional technical suiting for
men while at the other - are perfectly cut feminine dresses for the female form. Now
in the middle, lies the meeting point of urban style, where silhouettes are not genderspecific and free for all.
With that thought, we draw on some of the strongest collections hitting stores this season,
including those of Bottega Veneta and Dior, where the meeting point between masculine
and feminine is blurred. It is a liberating thought, and who knew it would have come from
the sexism-riddled fashion industry?

EDITORS PICK
WE ARE MARVELLING AT THESE
CUTE DISNEY PRINCESS BAGS FROM
REGIONAL BRAND CEECODE.
DESIGNED BY CYNTHIA PENNIKIAN,
THESE TOTES ARE NOW AVAILABLE
AT FIFTY ONE EAST LAGOONA
MALL. THE BRAND IS A PURVEYOR
OF STATEMENT PIECES WHICH IS
PERFECT FOR MONOCHROME
OUTFITS OR JUST TO SHOW
SUPPORT FOR A PRINCESS CLOSE
TO YOUR HEART.

18 \ TRENDS
3

SAVE

VS

SPLURGE

BACK TO
BLACK

SAVE
1 Leather cowboy sandals, QR350, Zara, Landmark Mall.

2 Hoop earrings with pearls, QR40, H&M, Villaggio Mall.

3 The No 5 Bag, Finders Keepers, QR260, WEST L.A.

4 Cross front jumpsuit, QR265, Glamorous, WEST L.A.

5 Soft feather dress, QR845, Line & Dot, WEST L.A.

The most colourful thing in

the world is black and white, it
contains all colours and at the same
time excludes all, says author
Vikram Verma. Not to adhere to an
autumn dressing clich, but theres
an art to black and white dressing
that is becoming increasingly lost
in our colourful perspectives. Solid
black and white combinations
exude an immediate polished
exterior, alluding to the standard
get-ups of fashion mavens of days
past. It is simple to put together,
but it is also one of the hardest
looks to pull off, as the shades
may come off looking dull or too
uniform-like. Confidence and
sass is the key to master before
venturing into the monochrome
wardrobe, and be adventurous with
accessorising. The plain canvas
means that just about anything
can work, from little pops of stars
on your sandals, to gold details on
your earrings.

SPLURGE
1 Denim overalls, QR1,691, Alexa Chung for AG Jeans,

Net-A-Porter.

2 Mia Grey clutch, QR2,500, Belquis, www.belquis.com

3 Swirl pearl drop earring, QR2,550, Balenciaga,

Porto Arabia.

4 Thames slider, QR1,400, Tory Burch, Lagoona Mall.

5 Meg dress, QR9,550, Tory Burch, Lagoona Mall.

GLAM / ON OUR

RADAR

SEPTEMBER 2015

AN EDIT OF THINGS THAT ARE HOT NOW

ETHAN KS THE DOHA BAG

Inspired by his journey to Qatar last
year, exotic skin artisan Ethan K, has
created The Doha Bag, to bring together
his experiences and inspirations from
this desert city. As he sat admiring
the picturesque view of the marina at
The Pearl while sipping karak tea, he
sketched a special handle to emulate the
golden bangles on the wrists of one his
closest Qatari clients. The handle takes
inspiration from thr ladys colourful
personality, while the curve of the bag

emulates the ripples of the Persian

Gulf 's waters. The bag features a special
octagonal turn-lock made with semiprecious stones which symbolise luck
and prosperity in Asian culture, an ode
to Ethans Singaporean origins. Four
creations have been designed exclusively
for Harrods, and each has an 18ct gold
dipped-plate, engraved with Ethan K for
Harrods. The Doha Bag is available in
a selection of colours and sizes, and can
also be carried as a cross-body.

22 \ TRENDS
SWAROVSKI MIDDLE EAST EXCLUSIVE
As an extension to the watch collection
presented at Baselworld this year, Swarovski
has launched a special edition exclusively for
our region. I was enthused by the idea of
extending some existing lines and interpreting
them with an extra touch of sparkle, which I
hope will please women from the Middle East,
explains Nathalie Colin, the brands creative
director. Comprising three designs, the special
issue portrays a reinterpretation of two iconic,
bestselling designs: the fashionable timepiece
Aila Day, and the feminine and playful Lovely
Crystals. Aila Day Double Tour is available in a
combination of gold plating, brown leather and
brown dial. Its double-wrap strap is particularly
easy to mix and match with other cuffs and
bangles, for an off-the-moment stacked wrist
look. The collection includes two luxuriant
takes on the ever-popular Lovely Crystals, in
light gold-plated and rose gold-plated bracelet
variations, with moving crystals encased in the
face. The collection is now available in stores.

AIGNER METROPOLITAN
After the success of its Cybill
One of One Collection last year,
Aigner is launching another
limited edition of the iconic Cybill
bag, to celebrate the diversity and
unique characteristics of cities
worldwide. The Metropolitan
Collection gives life to ten cities,
including New York, Dubai,
London, Shanghai and Doha;
channelling the spirit of a

metropolis with characteristic

colours, significant symbols and
complex leather artwork. The
Qatar Edition comes in warm
berry tones, displaying the typical
geometric, arabesque decorations
that we are all familiar with while
the London and Berlin editions
are characteristically hip, young
and edgy. Aigner is located at
Porto Arabia, The Pearl.

24 \ TRENDS

UNION SQUARE AND NOA COLLECTION

One of Valerie Messikas ten
new collections for the Messika
Paris brand, is the Union Square,
that highlights a versatile and
transformable design that is
understated, yet elegant. Both the
earrings and tie necklace feature
emerald-cut diamonds of minimal
facets, to deliberately tone down
the sparkle. The necklace comes in
the form of an endless ribbon that
can be worn in a single or double
loop, and is held together by a

removable diamond hinge, crafted

in a 4.01 carat emerald cut stone.
The versatility and playfulness
of Valeries creations continue
in the Noa collection of bangles,
that feature movable diamonds
symbolising 'Yesterday, Today and
Tomorrow'. The thin bangles form
the vessel for the movable diamonds,
making the pieces a dynamic
addition to your outfit. Messika
Paris is available from Ali bin Ali
Jewellery, Royal Plaza.

BABY MALAK COLLECTION

The award-winning jewellery designer,
Nada G, who graced our shores a couple
of seasons back, has just launched the
complete Baby Malak Collection, at the
2015 Las Vegas Couture Show, the jewellery
industrys annual exhibition. The collection
was based on the Baby Malak rings launched
last year, which so well-received that the
designer decided to expand on the concept,
to include cuffs, earrings, chokers and
necklaces. The rings originally debuted
within the Resolutions Collection, which
embraces the vibrancy and positivity of life.
Beautifully encrusted in the brilliance of
colourful stones, the designs were crafted
to work in harmony with the vibrant metal,
with each ring spelling out a rainbow of its
own. We all pursue the positives in our
lives and what constantly makes us happier
and more balanced everyday. Our goal is to
add light, love and hope in everything we do
and spread positive energy, says Nada.

26 \ TRENDS

SAINT LAURENTS COUTURE CAMPAIGN

Saint Laurents new campaign, Rue De
LUniversit, for its couture collection,
is an introduction to the new couture
house of Yves Saint Laurent, located
in Saint-Germain-des-Prs, from
which the campaign name is derived.
A three-year renovation project,
undertaken by creative director Hedi
Slimane, the design follows 18th century
French period elements and principles
of architecture. Named Htel de
Snecterre, the structure was originally
built in 1685, by Thomas Gobert - the
building planner to King Louis XIV.
The original monumental staircase

built under Louis XV, has been given a

modern take by New York artist Garth
Weiser - with a black and white diptych,
while a monumental 18th century crystal
chandelier has been restored by Hedi for
the staircase. The new geometric garden
of the couture house has been entirely
replanted with the help of historians,
to replicate the precise authenticity of
the design. The furniture includes both
the house and Hedis private collection
comprising of modernist, Art Deco and
18th-century French pieces, including
a parchment desk that belonged to
Yves Saint Laurent by 1930s designer

Elizabeth Eyre de Lanux. The art

collections include paintings of Ad
Reinhardt - a black 'Ultimate' painting,
a Daniel Buren black and white striped
painting and a Carl Andre sculpture.
The couture ateliers are located on the
third and fourth floor, - LAtelier Flou
for dressmaking and LAtelier Tailleur
for tailoring. Hedi began to recompose
the traditional couture ateliers of the
house in 2012, which have now become
the centre of the Saint Laurent project.
The previous couture house on 5 Avenue
Marceau, is now home to La Fondation
Pierre Berg-Yves Saint Laurent.

28 \ TRENDS

THE
AMIULET
PROJECT
The go-getter spirit of the Miu Miu
woman has us transfixed every season
as we eagerly await what surprises
Miuccia Prada has dreamt up. As the
playful and whimsical rendition of
its more polished sister Prada, Miu
Miu has always been on top of the
game when it comes to the 'revolving
door' trend of fashion. With a zany
mixed bags of goodies for its AW2015
collection that sees references to eras
from the 60s right through to the
present, Miuccia has set her eyes on
creating something that allows for the
expression of individuality. In comes the
special aMiulet project, a series of bags
proposed as amulets or talismans for the
fashion spirit. Eighteen bags have been

created that feature rich and elaborate

construction techniques, and are
finished off with quirky and provocative
aesthetics. Using unexpected materials
that have been taken apart and
reassembled to find a unique design
perspective, Miu Miu introduces a
new craquele leather, while the trusty
python skin is mixed with Plexiglass.
The collection include briefcases, patina
bags, and bowling bags, all in bright eyecatching colours. Each piece, considered
more of a fine object rather than a bag,
comes with its own dedicated plate
of certification. The aMiulet range is
now available exclusively in fourteen
boutiques worldwide, including Milan,
Paris, London, New York and Tokyo.

36

TAILORING GOES
INCREASINGLY
ANDROGYNOUS, THE
80'S REVIVAL IS ALIVE
AND KICKING, AND
DUVET-LIKE COATS
GIVE WARMTH.
THE SEASON IS
AN ECLECTIC MIX
OF CLASHING
INSPIRATIONS.

AUTUMN
WINTER
2015

FOCUS / 37

Burberry Prorsum
AW2015 runway

38

EMILIO PUCCI
Peter Dundas wizardry is at its finest in his last collection for Pucci, as he
takes on a new role at Italian house Roberto Cavalli. The Zodiac
Collection explores a glistening starry night, celebrating the symbols of
astrology and the unforeseen powers they behold. Graphic black and
white marks it with a modern urbanity, while also rendering homage to
Emilio Puccis own black and white collection of the late 1950s. Zodiac
iconography is everywhere, creating intriguing, cosmic-laden patterns
that illuminate fade-to-black prints, orbits around silk crepe iconic
T-shirt dresses, and shimmers on a dramatic sweeping cape. The new
trouser silhouette, with an exaggerated wide leg, creates a bold look,
while snug roll-neck sweaters feature three sporty stripes. Evening
pieces exude a Bohemian vibe with gypsy dresses, swing dresses with
pearl fringes, and shiny numbers of crushed micro-sequins.

FOCUS / 39

ALICE+OLIVIA
Stacey Bendet draws inspiration from the Biba-enthused days of swinging
London and the rock and roll era of the Rolling Stones, taking us back to
the fashion and decor of the late 60s and early 70. Texture is the new print
this season, where flowing dresses are accented with lace details, floral
jacquards are shown in mod shift shapes and graphic diamond designs are
seen on wide-leg pants. Layering takes centre stage with an emphasis on
the winter short, often paired with long tops and matching jackets that are
artfully styled at Bendets hand. Extravagant long coats and pants come in
regal jacquards, while a lengthy brocade vest in gold and blue jacquard with
matching pants and a mock neck topmock necks, especially in lace, form
one of the key looks. Mongolian furs are shown over printed dresses, while
trench coats with fur and leather details are paired with graphic printed
shorts. A black wide-leg tuxedo looks 70s chic when paired with a silver
embellished mock neck top. This season is about personal expression. It is
about bold femininity. It is about glamour. The clothes have a true rock and
roll vibe, while simultaneously being very romantic, says Bendet.

40

DIOR
I wanted that feeling of sensory overload in the collection, explains Raf
Simons. With this animalistic, powerful woman, wearing a new kind of
camouflage. And through the idea of animals and an abstraction of
their patterns, Raf embraces the primal and the patterned, to convey the
message of a liberated and hyper-natural world for women. The feminine
tailoring gives away to over-sized masculine elements, in forms of
blazers and double-breasted overcoats, while rough masculine tweeds
and wool felt comes in opera coats, and long-line outerwear. Abstract
animal patterns appear in knitted jacquard body suits and body harness
dresses, while pelts of Canadian fox detail give rise to a real animal
touch. A continuous narrative from the past seasons garden of flowers,
Raf moved this collection into the animal realm, referencing the 1947
Christian Dior, where leopard print came to life.

FOCUS / 41

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN
In the spirit of the rose, Sarah Burton takes the notion of the female
form and deconstructs it to discover the darkly romantic woman
underneath. Her silhouette grows organically in three dimensions, as
strong and natural as a rose; a symbol of strength and fragility, forever on
the brink of dishevelment. This is a collection steeped in the frayed
nature of reality, and the beauty of imperfection translated through
eaten-away lace, skeletons of dresses, frayed coats and jackets, poetic
knits and laddered lace. In colours of crimson, black, deep burgundy and
silver, highlight pieces include pleated leather skirts and dresses,
engineered lace cut-out knitted dresses with laddered pleated ruffles,
distressed and shredded silk rose cape coats, 3D leather rosette dresses,
and exploded petal-printed organza dresses with frayed edges.

42

MOSCHINO
Its no surprise that Jeremy Scott sent Looney Tunes and friends down the
runway this season, after his previous showings that shot Sponge Bob and
Barbie into the fashion-sphere. The classic cartoon characters are juxtaposed
with edgy hip hop streetwear, drawing on the rise of urban culture in
mainstream dressing. Colourful, attention-catching and surely not for the
faint-hearted, sweaters come emblazoned with bright logos, while denim
patchwork is contrasted with shiny gold details. Pitch in a shot of sportswear:
basketball tank tops, hockey jerseys, and baseball stripes. Quilted leather and
nylon puff jackets find root in military and construction work wear, paired with
embellished knee-high boots and safety helmets. And what is street culture
without graffiti? Scribbles appear haphazardly all over evening dresses of all
forms - a sexy off-shoulder kimono number, a ladies-who-lunch A-line piece
and a ballgown worthy of a wedding, complete with matching gloves.

FOCUS / 43

ETRO
Veronica Etro brings forth a collection that circles her familys twin
pursuits: the world of home interiors and fashion. Ornate wallpapers, rich
tapestries and luxurious upholstery textiles, provide a lush canvas and new
creative playground for beautifully made clothes. The swirling motifs of
furnishing fabrics are produced through weaving, printing and rich
embroideries, while graphic geometrics, inspired by carpet patterns, create
a soft optical effect. Paisley makes an appearance within the deep folds of
pleated dresses, with a splayed skirt. A mlange of different materials
jacquards, velvets, sequins, and printed silks are patched together to
create rich, new tapestry effects. A denim jacket is newly configured in
slices of five different haberdashery ribbons. Coats are a bricolage of
mohair, embroideries, jacquards, or suede, leather and exotic skins. Sharply
cut shapes are clean and exacting, allowing for precise silhouettes.

44

FOCUS / 45

BOTTEGA VENETA
This is not about meticulous dressing, but taking a bit of a bolder approach
when it comes to pattern and colour, says creative director Tomas Maier.
The collection explores the possibilities of beautifully made clothes that
express your own individual creativity. In giving rise to a nonchalant sense
of style, Tomas puts together unexpected combinations, to highlight a
personal take on dressing. The palette is dominated by bright shades of
green, teal, yellow, red, and byzantine violet, and is finished off with pale
colours of petal pink, camel, and mist. Materials are luxurious, as always with
the brand, wools that are compact and in various weights, matte technical
crepes and jerseys, and denim. With a little crossover from the mens
collection, the silhouette is precise with dominant pants and shoulders. The
new Monaco bag juxtaposes a rigid flap with a soft body, while shoes are
square-toed, multi-buckled, and low, for the woman on-the-go.

46

FOCUS / 47

LANVIN
The homage to Jeanne Lanvin at the Museum Galliera museum made me
feel the need to go back to my own roots, to Morocco, where I was born,
says Alber Elbaz. This is a collection evoking the spirit of a nomad travelling
into the dry and warm desert of Morocco. A lean and oversized silhouette
that is both masculine and feminine, theres a certain element that is both
raw and precious in the constructions. Pieces are collarless and button-less,
like a vest in oversized Tibetan goat, or a long sharp-edged blanket coat. The
welcoming warmth of the desert comes to life through the colour palette of
honey, pomegranate, cinnamon, and the grey and black of sun-baked earth.
Under striped woollen capes, brocade chiffon dresses come with
passementerie belts, silk braiding, plaited tassels, toggle fastenings and gold
cords. The season also sees the launch of a mini version of the houses
Sugar bag, which has been reworked for practicality. Two pockets provide
space for the essentials, especially as a companion for travelling.

48

FOCUS / 49

FENDI
Karl Lagerfeld contemplates on decades of collaboration with Fendi and
presents a collection that is meant to take the brand into the future. It is all
modern, and dictates relevancy to a new way of dressing for the current
generation, one of the more successful efforts by brands to connect the past
to the present. Colours of rust, saffron, and geometric prints, are inspired by
the Swiss artist Sophie Taeuber, with cuts that are straight and long. The
materials structure the silhouette with the play of appliqud leather panels
on the side of a skirt, while patchwork fur introduces a new graphic element
to the coats. Dresses and puff jackets are voluminous, shearling warms up
the bottoms of the trousers, and leather breastplate detail white shirts.
The houses 3Baguette bag also gets a new update with the 3Baguette Chain,
a boxy rendition that comes with a chain handle. The update is concurrent
with the vision of the collection, for a young and contemporary woman
with a cool and urban attitude. The double FF buckle has been innovated to
rotate into tiny scattered lines, to open and close the bag, giving the FF logo
a functional element, to its decorative predecessor version. Crafted in
leather, the bag comes in a variety of pop colours and embellishments,
while the chain is available in both gold and silver.

50

Muse

COLLECTION

QATARS DESIGNER DU JOUR COMES BACK THIS SEASON

WITH A COLLECTION THAT RETURNS TO HER SIGNATURE
MONOCHROME BLACK AND WHITE SETTING THE TONE
FOR A SOPHISTICATED MINIMALIST COLLECTION.
Cut from lush velvet, silk gazar, organza, crepe, or neoprene, Wadha Al Hajri tells the
story of confident, independent and powerful women - a reflection on the growing
empowerment of women in the country. I refer to it as my Muse Collection, because
it is inspired by the beauty, femininity and strong personality of one of my favourite
artists, she says. The collection is available at www.wadha.co & www.bysymphony.com

FASHION / 51
The monochrome palette serves as the perfect backdrop for
the designers architectural cuts, featuring dramatic trapezeshaped tops and cape dresses. Wadhas woman has always
cultivated a sense mystery, favouring restrained feminine
dresses and separates. This can be seen in the artful placement
of a cut-out to highlight the wearer's back, or the contradiction
found in a high-buttoned shirt rendered in gossamer fabric.

52

Wadha has also focused on more fitted

shapes with a hint of masculine tailoring. Cut
close to the body while still allowing for ease
of movement, each look in the collection
highlights fine craftsmanship.

FASHION / 53
Her signature hand-embroidered
geometric patterns and latticework
cut-outs, are part of the designers
ongoing exploration of unique surface
embellishments and techniques.

54

MIND
OVER
METAL
STRONG AND BOLD PIECES THAT
EVOKE ARCHITECTURAL LINES AND
INDUSTRIAL RAWNESS GIVE NEW
MEANING TO ACCESSORISING.
BY DEBRINA ALIYAH

On an outfit that demand little attention, Monica

Sordos jewellery pieces drum the loudest. Two-tone
metal cuffs or a layered gold fringe necklace that
runs all the way down the bust, seem more museum
exhibition-worthy rather than on the your average
street-style star. But these statement-making pieces
werent made for the ordinary woman either - it is a
leap into a generation of women who are powerful and
self-assured of their own beauty and strength. These
are traits that the designer herself portrays, through her
vastly colourful experience in the fashion industry, that
finally led her into the creation of her own jewellery
label. Having moved to Milan at the age of eighteen
to pursue her fashion training at Istituto Marangoni,
Monica had the opportunity to meet heavyweights the
likes of Miuccia Prada, Giorgio Armani and Franca
Sozzani. It was a different time then. There was no
social media, no bloggers, and everything and everyone
was very approachable in a city like Milano. It was such a
great experience, which is so different from today, the
designer reminiscences.
She had her eye set on the fashion editor ranks and
took a job with Marie Claire Spain after her Milan stint.
Five years later, the designer moved to New York to join
the Christian Louboutin PR team and in early 2012,
she finally pursued her calling. I had an immediate
strong connection with brass and took on the challenge
of creating with such a strong material. In jewellery,
I found a language, a new way to communicate, she

FASHION / 55

56

says. It was also familial ties that helped; Monicas father runs
an industrial workshop, working with wood, metal and tools.
After studying at the Gemological Institute of America in
jewellery design, I continued my training in my dads workshop
where he taught me a lot about the manufacturing process.
he brands debut collection, themed
Concrete Jungle, paid homage to New York
by reinterpreting the citys skyline. Working
off the facets of aquamarine stalagmites,
Monica recreated the stones in brass,
through a complex process using metal
bars and a milling machine, resulting in the
signature faceted spikes. This is when my
affair began with skylines and architecture, evolving into pieces
like the Kavanagh cuff and the Empire choker, both inspired
by the tip of landmark buildings of the Art Deco period, she
says. In Buenos Aires, Monica fell in love with the majestic and
imposing Kavanagh building, while the Anuket collection finds
roots in the goddess of the Nile River. She is considered the
Lady of Heaven, who used jewellery as a sign of power, beauty
and femininity, and to offer protection.

The distinctive metal collections have won over legions

of style-makers who have strong fashion views, so it is no
wonder that the brand quickly became a favourite for magazine
editorials. Earlier this year, the brand began its Middle Eastern
adventure, becoming available for the first time in Harvey
Nichols Dubai. My trip to Dubai and its stunning mix of
historical and ultra-modern architecture, would certainly be of
great inspiration for one of my upcoming collections.
What is it about Art Deco and architecture that draws you?
I have found infinite inspiration and in a city like New York,
you can breathe it every day - its overdose of lines, angles and
skylines. The industrial looks come from my fathers workshop
and my passion for vintage machinery and tools. I am really
fascinated by how massive machines are built and what they
are capable of doing. I love the rusty tones of the metals they
are made of. I find beauty in big masses and try to represent
that in a stylish and minimal way in my jewellery. Working
in Lima with Peruvian artisans, has somehow influenced my
design, which carries a bit of an Inca flair. I have always said
that inspiration is something very personal, and for me, it is a

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melting pot of experiences that accumulate from my life.

Take us behind-the-scenes of your work.
All the pieces are handmade in our Caracas workshop and
in Lima where I work with a small group of artisan who
are silversmiths and goldsmiths. My design process is very
intimate, Im a sketcher, and to develop a piece, I draw over
and over again from a very simple sketch on a napkin, to a full
tech drawing. I find that by repetition, I get what I really want
and see the piece evolve, until it clicks. A piece of jewellery
must be beautiful, but also functional and comfortable. I am
obsessed with pieces that completely cage the arm or neck
and there is a lot of engineering behind this. Designing for
me is always a challenge and seeing the final result is a great
reward.
How do you think this fits into Middle Eastern aesthetics?
Our pieces are very unique because of their size and boldness.
It is a piece of custom jewellery that is handmade with fine
finishing, using a very high-end manufacturing process. It is
hard to find pieces of this dimension, quality and design, and
I think this will appeal to the Middle Eastern woman.

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IN THE MARKET

SPANISH MARKETS COME TO LIFE WITH THE DEBUT COLLECTION OF DINA KHALIF.
BY DEBRINA ALIYAH

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Lebanese
designer, Dina Khalif, taps into the vibrancy
of Spains heart with her Autumn Winter 2015
collection, that finds its soul in the hustle and
bustle of Spanish markets. The fashion and
accessory designer moved to Madrid half a
decade ago, after falling in love with the city.
In this debut fashion collection, Dina presents
modern and feminine silhouettes that are
adorned with prints of her own illustrations,
with lively scenes of crowds, floral motifs and
stylised interpretations of market food.
The colour palette is reminiscent of the
shades of fruit and vegetables found at market
stalls, and the collection is a carefully edited
selection of key wardrobe pieces, including
long-line shift dresses, sweetly tailored
separates with matching prints, and ladylike
tops with playful details such as peplum frills.
Matching accessories include printed scarves
with delicately hand rolled edges and limitededition handmade necklaces that echo the
motifs from the prints.

What is the essence of the label?

I like to portray beauty and magic in ordinary
things. The idea is to transform hand-drawn
prints into beautiful clothes and accessories
that are simple, elegant and easy to wear.
Fashion is something that has always been on
my mind. When I was working for Bimba &
Lola, I realised that the experience has given
me great confidence to venture on my own.
I decided to quit my full time job and start
the brand. I heard about Starch, a foundation
based in Beirut, that helps emerging Lebanese
designers in developing their creative work,
and this is how the first collection was born.
Whats the story behind the collection?
I was inspired by the food markets in Spain,
the main protagonists are prints with crowds,
food and bold colours. The collection conveys
the jovial atmosphere and eye-catching
details one can experience when visiting those

spaces. Patterns portray convivial scenes from

interacting visitors, sophisticated stands and
exquisite fruit and vegetables displays.
What sparked your journey into fashion?
Since I was a child, I was passionate about
drawing. Later, I started to collect fabrics
with colourful patterns. Both my mother and
grandmother used to embroider beautiful
textiles at home. In 2009, I did my masters
degree in textile design and surfaces at the
Istituto Europeo di Design Madrid.
Afterwards, I worked for the Spanish fashion
house Bimba & Lola, as an accessory designer.
The experience was very important since it
is a brand with hundreds of shops around the
world. The exposure was very enriching. I am
lucky and thankful to live in a country with
so much inspiration. These days, Im inspired
by the books Im reading, nature, interaction
with people, travel, museums, and food.
Whats the design process like?
The fabrics are all hand-drawn and handpainted in-house. The collection is produced
in limited runs by local artisans in Terrassa,
an area in Spain known for its textiles and fine
printing techniques.
How do you relate this back to the Middle East?
The brand is characterised by colourful prints
with strong attention to detail. Coming from
the Middle East, and living in Europe, is an
advantage because of the understanding of
the Middle Eastern market and its audience.
Also, having the collection produced in
Europe in small runs by local artisans, makes
the quality of each product exclusive and
unique. Middle Eastern women give great
importance to their physical appearance:
they like to dress up and wear unique clothes.
They encourage young designers from the
region and they feel proud to wear their
pieces.

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FINISHING

TOUCH

Vanessa Seward has put her life and soul

into a venture that has been a long time
coming - her namesake label.

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ast autumn, Vanessa

Seward joined a small
group of designers
in debuting their
collections in Paris. But
though it was her first
solo presentation, the
designer has had countless fashion
week hours with Chanel, Yves Saint
Laurent and Azzaro. The collection
laid the foundation of a comprehensive
wardrobe, based on Sewards own life and
style, and is a narration of her journey

of finding the balance of how women

dress. Its difficult to be chic in your
everyday life. For a long time, I didnt
know how to achieve this. After working
in couture houses, I wanted to make
this elegance accessible, Vanessa says.
Classic pieces that have come to define
Sewards signature style are rediscovered
in luxurious prints, subtle femininity,
touches of lame and well-tailored denim.
Details include enamel buttons, grosgrain
trims and golden hardware. I pay tribute
to the contemporary woman, with whom

I identify. This collection is dedicated to

her. Its not a concept or a clich, but a
recommendation to help her face her daily
life with an extra boost of confidence.
The launch of her new label is backed by
the founder of A.P.C, Jean Touitou, with
whom Vanessa has had several capsule
collaborations in recent years. The cherry
on top is an expansion plan that will
include standalone stores. Net-A-Porter
has launched the labels collection online,
with a special selection that is geared for
the woman on-the-go.

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Q&A

Has it been your long-term goal to launch an

eponymous label?
It was more of a dream, but I knew that
without the right partner it is very difficult
to do. I also think that I wasnt ready, my
last experience collaborating with A.P.C.
taught me a lot on casual clothing. So

when Jean Touitou proposed we do it after

working together on six collaborations, it
was a dream made true.
Who is the Vanessa Seward customer?
I think shes a woman whos looking for
well-cut clothes that make her look good,
without outshining her personality.
How do you go about the design process?
I start with my personal needs and Im
also inspired by the stylish women who

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surround me. I work closely with my team

on the structure of the collection and then
I tell my story.
What was your inspiration for the AW15
collection?
My life! I wanted the collection to be as
personal as possible, so I was inspired by
my childhood in London, my life in Paris,
and my Argentine roots.
Why did you choose to partner with Net-A-

Porter for the launch?

Net-A-Porter had carried my collections
for Azzaro, and I admire their selection
and incredible fashion sense,so it was
really important for me that they were the
retail partner.
What are your personal highlights from the
collection?
The long shearling coat (Ive been looking
for one for ages!), the denim blazer and
the clover print dress.