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CE 769
Coastal and Ocean Environment
Part-I
Dr. BALAJI Ramakrishnan
Assistant Professor
Department of Civil Engineering, IIT Bombay.
email: rbalaji@civil.iitb.ac.in
Detailed Syllabus
CE 769: Coastal and Ocean Environment
Module 1
Review of basic Fluid Mechanics - Conservation of mass - Continuity
equation - Eulers equation of motion - Bernoullis equation - Velocity
potential.
Tides; description, types, components and characteristics, analysis, levels,
prediction hydrodynamics of tidal inlets, basins and estuaries - tide
induced currents flushing and circulation processes.
Module 2
Nearshore dynamics- estimation of nearshore wave characteristics, surf zone
waves, wave setup, run-up on beaches and nearshore currents.
Sediment dynamics- characteristics, motion initiation, littoral process, crossshore transport: equilibrium beach profiles, bar formation, sediment
transport modelling- beach processes and sedimentation. Inlet sediment
dynamics- estuarine and tidal inlets sediment transport.
Dr. BALAJI Ramakrishnan, Assistant Professor, Dept. of Civil Engg., IIT Bombay. email: rbalaji@civil.iitb.ac.in
8/12/2014
Detailed Syllabus
CE 769: Coastal and Ocean Environment
Module 3
Coastal erosion - Erosion protection measures; seawalls, revetments, groynes
and offshore detached breakwaters.
Beach nourishments - methods, borrow area, environmental effects and
performance monitoring.
Module 4
Coastal hazards- meteorological; storms and surges, hurricanes and coastal
flooding - geological; tsunamis, sea level rise and implications, landslides and
earthquakes man-made; oil and chemical spill, marine disposals.
Coastal zone management- zones, purpose, principles and CRZ.
Dr. BALAJI Ramakrishnan, Assistant Professor, Dept. of Civil Engg., IIT Bombay. email: rbalaji@civil.iitb.ac.in
Detailed Syllabus
CE 769: Coastal and Ocean Environment
References:
Coastal Engineering Manual (CEM), U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, Engineer
Manual 1110-2-1100, Washington, D.C. (in 6 volumes), 2002.
Dean, R.G and Dalrymple, R.A., Water wave mechanics for engineers and
scientists, Prentice Hall Inc., 1984.
Herbich, J.B., Handbook of coastal and ocean engineering, Gulf publishing
co., 1990.
Sorensen, R.M., Basic coastal engineering, Springer, 2006.
Wiegel, R.L., Oceanographical engineering, Prentice Hall Inc., 1964.
Komar, Paul D., Beach processes and sedimentation, Englewood Cliffs:
Prentice-Hall, 1976.
Dr. BALAJI Ramakrishnan, Assistant Professor, Dept. of Civil Engg., IIT Bombay. email: rbalaji@civil.iitb.ac.in
8/12/2014
-where the derivatives of f(x, y) are all taken at x = x0, the location for which
the function is known.
-For very small values of x, the terms involving (x)n, where n>1, are very
much smaller & can be neglected.
-Through the use of the Taylor series, it is possible to develop relationships
between fluid properties at two closely spaced locations.
Dr. BALAJI Ramakrishnan, Assistant Professor, Dept. of Civil Engg., IIT Bombay. email: rbalaji@civil.iitb.ac.in
-in which the coefficients a n and bn are obtained from the integrals;
Due to the periodicity of trigonometric functions & as the ocean waves are
periodic, Fourier series is widely used in ocean engg. applications.
Dr. BALAJI Ramakrishnan, Assistant Professor, Dept. of Civil Engg., IIT Bombay. email: rbalaji@civil.iitb.ac.in
8/12/2014
Dr. BALAJI Ramakrishnan, Assistant Professor, Dept. of Civil Engg., IIT Bombay. email: rbalaji@civil.iitb.ac.in
As sinkx and coskx are solutions of the 2nd order ODE of X+k2X=0; the sinh
kx and cosh kx are solutions of;
Dr. BALAJI Ramakrishnan, Assistant Professor, Dept. of Civil Engg., IIT Bombay. email: rbalaji@civil.iitb.ac.in
8/12/2014
If x & y are functions of time (t) then we use chain rule as;
Dr. BALAJI Ramakrishnan, Assistant Professor, Dept. of Civil Engg., IIT Bombay. email: rbalaji@civil.iitb.ac.in
8/12/2014
Eq.1
Dr. BALAJI Ramakrishnan, Assistant Professor, Dept. of Civil Engg., IIT Bombay. email: rbalaji@civil.iitb.ac.in
8/12/2014
Similarly, the difference in the rates of influx & efflux can be estimated for y
& z directions. The total change of mass within the control volume during the
time dt is;
Eq.2
Dr. BALAJI Ramakrishnan, Assistant Professor, Dept. of Civil Engg., IIT Bombay. email: rbalaji@civil.iitb.ac.in
Negligible
Nil for
incompress
ible fluid
Dr. BALAJI Ramakrishnan, Assistant Professor, Dept. of Civil Engg., IIT Bombay. email: rbalaji@civil.iitb.ac.in
8/12/2014
gravity
Local
inertia
Convective inertia
pressure
Inertia forces
Applied forces
Euler
equation
Dr. BALAJI Ramakrishnan, Assistant Professor, Dept. of Civil Engg., IIT Bombay. email: rbalaji@civil.iitb.ac.in
Convective
inertia
Applied forces
Pressure
gravity
friction
Bernoulli equations
-Bernoulli equations are integrated form of Euler equations of motions.
-Provides relationship between pressure field and kinematics.
-Replacing the velocity terms in Euler equations (u, v & w) by velocity
potential form (u=c /cx, v=c /cy, w=c /cz), we get;
Dr. BALAJI Ramakrishnan, Assistant Professor, Dept. of Civil Engg., IIT Bombay. email: rbalaji@civil.iitb.ac.in
8/12/2014
and
Dr. BALAJI Ramakrishnan, Assistant Professor, Dept. of Civil Engg., IIT Bombay. email: rbalaji@civil.iitb.ac.in
The Atlantic
The Atlantic Ocean extends northward
from Antarctica;
and includes all of the Arctic Sea, the
European Mediterranean, and the
American
Mediterranean
more
commonly known as the Caribbean
sea.
Dr. BALAJI Ramakrishnan, Assistant Professor, Dept. of Civil Engg., IIT Bombay. email: rbalaji@civil.iitb.ac.in
8/12/2014
The Indian
extends from Antarctica to the
continent of Asia including the Red
Sea and Persian Gulf.
Dr. BALAJI Ramakrishnan, Assistant Professor, Dept. of Civil Engg., IIT Bombay. email: rbalaji@civil.iitb.ac.in
-Marginal Seas are defined by only an indentation in the coast. The Arabian
Sea and South China Sea are marginal seas.
-The ocean and seas cover 70.8% of the surface of earth, which amounts to
361,254,000 km2.
Dr. BALAJI Ramakrishnan, Assistant Professor, Dept. of Civil Engg., IIT Bombay. email: rbalaji@civil.iitb.ac.in
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Schematic section through the ocean showing principal features of the sea
floor.
Note that the slope of the sea floor is greatly exaggerated in the figure.
Dr. BALAJI Ramakrishnan, Assistant Professor, Dept. of Civil Engg., IIT Bombay. email: rbalaji@civil.iitb.ac.in
Tidal hydrodynamics
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Dr. BALAJI Ramakrishnan, Assistant Professor, Dept. of Civil Engg., IIT Bombay. email: rbalaji@civil.iitb.ac.in
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Dr. BALAJI Ramakrishnan, Assistant Professor, Dept. of Civil Engg., IIT Bombay. email: rbalaji@civil.iitb.ac.in
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The F & D are same pattern as sun-earth system, but magnitude varies.
Dr. BALAJI Ramakrishnan, Assistant Professor, Dept. of Civil Engg., IIT Bombay. email: rbalaji@civil.iitb.ac.in
Dr. BALAJI Ramakrishnan, Assistant Professor, Dept. of Civil Engg., IIT Bombay. email: rbalaji@civil.iitb.ac.in
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Tidal Hydrodynamics
Theory of Tides
Moon-Earth System:
Dr. BALAJI Ramakrishnan, Assistant Professor, Dept. of Civil Engg., IIT Bombay. email: rbalaji@civil.iitb.ac.in
Front view
Top View
Dr. BALAJI Ramakrishnan, Assistant Professor, Dept. of Civil Engg., IIT Bombay. email: rbalaji@civil.iitb.ac.in
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Tidal Hydrodynamics
Theory of Tides
The Sun, Earth and Moon system:
Dr. BALAJI Ramakrishnan, Assistant Professor, Dept. of Civil Engg., IIT Bombay. email: rbalaji@civil.iitb.ac.in
Dr. BALAJI Ramakrishnan, Assistant Professor, Dept. of Civil Engg., IIT Bombay. email: rbalaji@civil.iitb.ac.in
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Dr. BALAJI Ramakrishnan, Assistant Professor, Dept. of Civil Engg., IIT Bombay. email: rbalaji@civil.iitb.ac.in
Dr. BALAJI Ramakrishnan, Assistant Professor, Dept. of Civil Engg., IIT Bombay. email: rbalaji@civil.iitb.ac.in
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Tidal Hydrodynamics
Theory of Tides: Spring & Neap
Dr. BALAJI Ramakrishnan, Assistant Professor, Dept. of Civil Engg., IIT Bombay. email: rbalaji@civil.iitb.ac.in
Dr. BALAJI Ramakrishnan, Assistant Professor, Dept. of Civil Engg., IIT Bombay. email: rbalaji@civil.iitb.ac.in
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Dr. BALAJI Ramakrishnan, Assistant Professor, Dept. of Civil Engg., IIT Bombay. email: rbalaji@civil.iitb.ac.in
Dr. BALAJI Ramakrishnan, Assistant Professor, Dept. of Civil Engg., IIT Bombay. email: rbalaji@civil.iitb.ac.in
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Tidal Hydrodynamics
Theory of Tides: Other inequalities
Both the Moon and the Earth revolve in elliptical orbits and the distances
from their centers of attraction vary.
Increased gravitational influences and tide-raising forces are produced when
the Moon is at position of perigee.
Dr. BALAJI Ramakrishnan, Assistant Professor, Dept. of Civil Engg., IIT Bombay. email: rbalaji@civil.iitb.ac.in
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Diurnal tides:
Tides haves one high & one low in
tidal day.
In parts of the northern Gulf of
Mexico and Southeast Asia.
Dr. BALAJI Ramakrishnan, Assistant Professor, Dept. of Civil Engg., IIT Bombay. email: rbalaji@civil.iitb.ac.in
Mixed tides:
Successive high-water and low-water stands differ appreciably
The tides around west coast of Canada and the US.
Dr. BALAJI Ramakrishnan, Assistant Professor, Dept. of Civil Engg., IIT Bombay. email: rbalaji@civil.iitb.ac.in
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Dr. BALAJI Ramakrishnan, Assistant Professor, Dept. of Civil Engg., IIT Bombay. email: rbalaji@civil.iitb.ac.in
Tidal Hydrodynamics
Characteristics of Tides
Dr. BALAJI Ramakrishnan, Assistant Professor, Dept. of Civil Engg., IIT Bombay. email: rbalaji@civil.iitb.ac.in
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Dr. BALAJI Ramakrishnan, Assistant Professor, Dept. of Civil Engg., IIT Bombay. email: rbalaji@civil.iitb.ac.in
Tidal Hydrodynamics
Characteristics of Tides
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Tidal Hydrodynamics
Characteristics of Tides
Red sea
Arabian Gulf
Tidal Hydrodynamics
Characteristics of Tides
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Dr. BALAJI Ramakrishnan, Assistant Professor, Dept. of Civil Engg., IIT Bombay. email: rbalaji@civil.iitb.ac.in
Tidal Hydrodynamics
Tidal datum
Dr. BALAJI Ramakrishnan, Assistant Professor, Dept. of Civil Engg., IIT Bombay. email: rbalaji@civil.iitb.ac.in
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Tidal Hydrodynamics
Tidal level measurement
Tidal Hydrodynamics
Tidal level measurement
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Tidal Hydrodynamics
Tidal level measurement
Tidal Hydrodynamics
Tidal level measurement
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Tidal Hydrodynamics
Prediction of Tides
From the tidal level measurement (at least for 19yrs) at a particular
location, the tidal constituents can be obtained by analyzing the time
histories.
The analysis is called as harmonic analysis, as it involves extracting the
periods of various components.
From a harmonic analysis of the observed water level series, two values are
obtained for each tidal constituent.
Amplitude, the vertical distance between mean tide level and the level of the
crest is one of the values.
And the phase lag, the amount of time elapsed from the maximum
astronomic event to the first maximum of its corresponding constituent
tide, is usually expressed in degrees.
Harmonic constants are unique to the particular station location from
which they were derived.
Dr. BALAJI Ramakrishnan, Assistant Professor, Dept. of Civil Engg., IIT Bombay. email: rbalaji@civil.iitb.ac.in
Tidal Hydrodynamics
Prediction of Tides
Mathematically, the process of prediction involves simple addition of the
cosine curves of the tidal constituents.
This straightforward addition may be developed by;
Dr. BALAJI Ramakrishnan, Assistant Professor, Dept. of Civil Engg., IIT Bombay. email: rbalaji@civil.iitb.ac.in
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Tidal Hydrodynamics
Prediction of Tides
Tidal Hydrodynamics
Prediction of Tides
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Tidal Hydrodynamics
Prediction of Tides
Softwares
Tide table
Tide prediction
Dr. BALAJI Ramakrishnan, Assistant Professor, Dept. of Civil Engg., IIT Bombay. email: rbalaji@civil.iitb.ac.in
Tidal Hydrodynamics
Characteristics of Tides
As the gravitational forces of sun and moon are time varying, the tide is
also a time varying phenomenon.
Similar to waves, tides have;
Height, H, the vertical distance between the level of a crest and the level
of a trough (amplitude, A, is one half the height),
Length, L, the horizontal distance from one crest to the next,
Period, T, the time interval between the occurrence of two successive
crests at a fixed point.
Dr. BALAJI Ramakrishnan, Assistant Professor, Dept. of Civil Engg., IIT Bombay. email: rbalaji@civil.iitb.ac.in
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Tidal Hydrodynamics
Characteristics of Tides
The water waves are classified into three categories, depending upon their
water depth to wave length ratio, (d/L);
Classification
d/L
Deep water
> 0.5
Intermediate water
0.5 0.05
Shallow water
<0.05
The speed of the wave form/celerity of the tidal waves is given as;
C = L/T
And for smaller values of d, (shallow water depth)
Dr. BALAJI Ramakrishnan, Assistant Professor, Dept. of Civil Engg., IIT Bombay. email: rbalaji@civil.iitb.ac.in
Tidal Hydrodynamics
Characteristics of Tides
The horizontal component of water particle velocity under the sine waves
are give as;
Dr. BALAJI Ramakrishnan, Assistant Professor, Dept. of Civil Engg., IIT Bombay. email: rbalaji@civil.iitb.ac.in
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Tidal Hydrodynamics
Characteristics of Tides
d
d
L0
d
Dr. BALAJI Ramakrishnan, Assistant Professor, Dept. of Civil Engg., IIT Bombay. email: rbalaji@civil.iitb.ac.in
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Dr. BALAJI Ramakrishnan, Assistant Professor, Dept. of Civil Engg., IIT Bombay. email: rbalaji@civil.iitb.ac.in
Arabian sea
Dr. BALAJI Ramakrishnan, Assistant Professor, Dept. of Civil Engg., IIT Bombay. email: rbalaji@civil.iitb.ac.in
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Dr. BALAJI Ramakrishnan, Assistant Professor, Dept. of Civil Engg., IIT Bombay. email: rbalaji@civil.iitb.ac.in
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Open water
channel
Tidal flat
Tidal marsh
Dr. BALAJI Ramakrishnan, Assistant Professor, Dept. of Civil Engg., IIT Bombay. email: rbalaji@civil.iitb.ac.in
Tide entering an
estuary
Resulting tide in
the estuary
Dr. BALAJI Ramakrishnan, Assistant Professor, Dept. of Civil Engg., IIT Bombay. email: rbalaji@civil.iitb.ac.in
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Tidal Hydrodynamics
Tides in bays, estuaries & harbours
Tidal Hydrodynamics
Tides in bays, estuaries & harbours
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Tidal Hydrodynamics
Tides in bays, estuaries & harbours
Tidal inlets provide both man and nature with a means of access between
the ocean and a bay.
Commercial and recreational vessels need a navigable channel for safe
transit to interior harbors.
The flow of currents into and out of a bay through an inlet provides natural
flushing to maintain good water quality and reasonable salinity levels.
The migration of fish, fish larvae, and other sea life through the inlet
conduit is also an important function of an inlet.
Successful engineering of inlets requires knowledge of water and sediment
movement in and adjacent to the inlet.
Dr. BALAJI Ramakrishnan, Assistant Professor, Dept. of Civil Engg., IIT Bombay. email: rbalaji@civil.iitb.ac.in
Tidal Hydrodynamics
Tides in bays, estuaries & harbours
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Dr. BALAJI Ramakrishnan, Assistant Professor, Dept. of Civil Engg., IIT Bombay. email: rbalaji@civil.iitb.ac.in
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Current
velocity
Direction distribution
Current
direction
Current profile
Dr. BALAJI Ramakrishnan, Assistant Professor, Dept. of Civil Engg., IIT Bombay. email: rbalaji@civil.iitb.ac.in
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Tidal Hydrodynamics
Tide induced currents
Another common way to illustrate how tidal
currents vary in space, either horizontally or
with depth, is to use tidal ellipses.
The red lines indicate the direction at which the
current is pointing at a given time. Bluecounterclockwise; Green-clockwise rotation.
Dr. BALAJI Ramakrishnan, Assistant Professor, Dept. of Civil Engg., IIT Bombay. email: rbalaji@civil.iitb.ac.in
Tidal Hydrodynamics
Tide induced currents-Measurements
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Next
Near-shore & sediment dynamics.
Dr. BALAJI Ramakrishnan, Assistant Professor, Dept. of Civil Engg., IIT Bombay. email: rbalaji@civil.iitb.ac.in
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