Calvados (spirit)

[edit] History
Apple orchards and brewers are mentioned as far back as the 8th century by
Charlemagne. The first known Norman distillation was carried out by "Lord" de
Gouberville in 1554, and the guild for cider distillation was created about 50 years later
in 1606. In the 17th century the traditional ciderfarms expanded but taxation and
prohibition of cider brandies were enforced elsewhere than Brittany, Maine and
Normandy. The area called "Calvados" was created after the French Revolution, but "Eau
de vie de cidre" was already called "calvados" in common usage. In the 19th century
output increased with industrial distillation and the working class fashion for "Café-
calva". When a phylloxera outbreak devastated the vineyards of France and Europe,
calvados experienced a "golden age". During World War I cider brandy was made for
armaments. The appellation contrôlée regulations officially gave calvados a protected
name in 1942. After the war many cider-houses and distilleries were reconstructed,
mainly in the Pays d'Auge. Many of the traditional farmhouse structures were replaced by
modern agriculture with high output. The calvados appellation system was revised in
1984 and 1996. Pommeau got its recognition in 1991; in 1997 an appellation for
Domfront with 30% pears was created.

[edit] Process of fabrication

Calvados is distilled from specially grown and selected apples, of which there are over
200 named varieties. It is not uncommon for a Calvados producer to use over 100 specific
varieties of apple to produce their Calvados. The apples used are either sweet (such as the
Rouge Duret variety), tart (such as the Rambault variety), or bitter (such as the Mettais,
Saint Martin, Frequin, and Binet Rouge varieties), with the latter category of apple being
inedible. The reason the bitter apples are used is that if all sweet apples were used the
resulting liquor would be too sweet, like apple jack. A typical Calvados recipe might
include 30% sweet apples, 40% tart apples, and 30% bitter apples; another recipe might
include 40% sweet, 20% tart, and 40% bitter.
The fruit is picked (usually by hand) and pressed into a juice that is fermented into a dry
cider. It is then distilled into eau de vie. After two years aging in oak casks, it can be sold
as Calvados. The longer it is aged, the smoother the drink becomes. Usually the
maturation goes on for several years. A half-bottle of twenty-year-old Calvados can
easily command the same price as a full bottle of ten-year-old Calvados.

[edit] Double and single distillation The appellation of AOC

calvados authorizes double distillation for all calvados but it is required for the AOC
calvados Pays d’Auge.

• Double distillation is carried out in traditional alembic pot-still—called either

"l'alambic à repasse" or "charentais". This process gives the spirit complexity and
 renders it suitable for longer aging.

• Single continuous distillation in a column still. It gives the calvados a fresh and
clean apple flavour but with less complexity.

[edit] Producing regions and legal definitions

Map of the calvados region

Like most French wines, Calvados is governed by appellation contrôlée regulations.
There are three appellations for calvados:

• The AOC calvados area includes all of the Calvados, Manche, and Orne
départements and parts of Eure, Mayenne, Sarthe, and Eure-et-Loir.

• AOC calvados makes up for over 70 percent of the total production.

• Minimum of two years ageing in oak barrels.

• The terroir, geographical area, is defined.

• The apples and pears are defined cider varieties.

• The procedures in production like pressing, fermentation, distillation and

ageing is regulated.

• Usually single column distillation.

• The more restrictive AOC calvados Pays d'Auge area is limited to the east end
of the département of Calvados and a few adjoining districts.

• Extensive quality control—the basic rules for AOC calvados together with
several additional requirements.

• Ageing for minimum of two years in oak barrels.

• Double distillation in an alembic pot-still.

• Produced within the designated area in Pays d'Auge.

• A minimum of six weeks fermentation of the cider.

• Flavour elements are controlled.

• AOC calvados Domfrontais reflects the long tradition of pear orchards in the
area, resulting in a unique fruity calvados. The regulation is similar to the AOC
 calvados and the column still is used.

• A minimum of 30 percent pears from the designated areas is used.

• A three-year minimum of ageing in oak barrels.

• The orchards must consist of at least 15 percent of pear trees (25 percent
from the sixteenth harvest).

• Fermier "farm-made" calvados—some quality minded producers both inside

and outside the Pays d’Auge make "calvados fermier", which indicates that the
calvados is entirely made on the farm in a traditional agricultural way according
to high quality demands.

[edit] Grades of quality

The age on the bottle refers to the youngest constituent of the blend. A blend is often
comprised of old and young calvados. Producers can also use the terms below to refer to
the age.

• "Fine", "Trois étoiles ***", "Trois pommes"—at least two years old.

• "Vieux"—"Réserve"—at least three years old.

• "V.O." "VO", "Vieille Réserve", "V.S.O.P." "VSOP"—at least four years old.

• "Extra", "X.O." "XO", "Napoléon", "Hors d'Age" "Age Inconnu"—at least six
years old. Often sold much older.
High quality calvados usually has parts which are much older than that mentioned.
Calvados can be made from a single (generally, exceptionally good) year. When this
happens, the label often carries that year.

[edit] Tasting
Calvados is the basis of the tradition of le trou Normand, or "the Norman hole". This is a
small drink of Calvados taken between courses in a very long meal, sometimes with
apple sorbet, supposed to re-awaken the appetite. Calvados can be served as aperitif,
blended in drinks, between meals, as a digestif, or with coffee. Well-made calvados
should naturally be reminiscent of apples and pears, balanced with flavours of ageing.
The less aged calvados distinguishes itself with its fresh apple and pear aromas. The
longer the calvados is aged, the more the taste resembles that of any other aged brandy.
As calvados ages, it may become golden or darker brown with orange elements and red
mahogany. The nose and palate are delicate with concentration of aged apples and dried
apricots balanced with butterscotch, nut and chocolate aromas.
[edit] Calvados in popular culture
In his historical documentary novel G.I., author Lee Kennett discusses the calvados
distilled out by French farmers, usually at 140 proof or even higher, which was a new
experience for the liberating American soldiers. The GI's claimed it was made from
"ground up genades". He further states that some GI's burned it in their cigarette lighters.
In the 1963 novel On Her Majesty's Secret Service by Ian Fleming, James Bond drinks a
glass of ten-year-old Calvados.
Calvados is the main characters' favourite drink in Erich Maria Remarque's novel Arch of
Triumph.
Calvados is often referred to in the writings of mystic George Gurdjieff.
Cornelius Bear is known to have a stash of several well-aged bottles of calvados in the
webcomic Achewood.
Inspector Maigret often stops in to a cafe for a glass of Calvados in Georges Simenon's
novels and short stories.
On the album Us Against the Crown by State Radio, there is a song called "Calvados
Chopper." It speaks of a man who is driving a motorcycle while "hopped up on
Calvados."
In Astérix et les Normands (Asterix and the Normans/Vikings), volume 9 of the popular
Astérix comic books, Calvados is the national drink of the Vikings, and they are depicted
drinking it out of the hollowed skulls of their dead enemies.
In the BBC television series Secret Army, the proprietor of the Cafe Candide and agent of
the Resistance, Albert Foiret (Bernard Hepton), keeps a supply of Calvados specially for
his high ranking German customers. It is the favourite drink of Sturmbannführer Ludwig
Kessler (Clifford Rose) who, in the series, is head of the SS in Brussels.
Calvados is the regimental drink of Canada's storied Régiment de Maisonneuve, having
been taken up as the infantry regiment passed through Normandy following the D-Day
invasion.
Calvados is favourite drink of main characters in French rival of The Da Vinci Code, La
promesse de l'ange by Frederic Lenoir.
A bottle of Calvados is given to Steve McQueen, an American soldier, by Nick Adams a
Polish DP in "Hell is for Heroes".
Authour of Pantheon, Martin Laidlaw, cites once drinking a bottle of calvados in his
autobiographical short story, "My kingdom for a lie."
History of calvados producers
A short history of calvados apple brandy - read the whole fascinating history in the
book. Includes many pictures and illustrations.

0
Celts picked wild apples.
The Romans and monasteries had orchards, and pears were favoured.
8th century
Martel fought the Muslim Arabs that had knowledge of distillation. Charlemagne had
orchards and brewers.

10th century
Drinking rituals of the Vikings/Normans with ale and ‘beor/björr’- fermented apples.
13th century
The press and crushing improves.
Inns and merchants sell cider locally called ‘succus pomis’ or ‘pomatium’
14th century
Battles between English and French. The Black Death and Little Ice Age from the mid-
14th through mid-19th centuries. Apples are appreciated. Varieties and orchards are
mentioned in several books. Normandy manages thanks to trade and a fertile land.
Architectural efforts such as Mont Saint Michel. The rumour of distilled alcohol ‘aqua
vitae’, ‘eau de vie’ or ‘water of life’ spread. Raymond Lull and Arnaud de Villeneuve in
Montpellier were among the pioneer distillers.
15th century
Distillation at apothecaries and monasteries. Hieronymus Brunschwygk's book ‘Liber de
arte distillandi’ illustrate distillation and the virtues of alcohol as medicine.
Tasty cider, ‘sicera’, and spicy apple varieties influenced from the Basques.
16th century
First known Norman distillation ‘Lord’ of Gouberville in 1554. The guild for cider
distillation 1606. Import of Basque tarte apples and techniques. Cotentin the cradle of the
cider evolution.
17th century
Expansion of traditional ciderfarms. Cider appears at the tables of the nobles. Taxation
and prohibition of cider brandies elsewhere than Brittany, Maine and Normandy.
18th century
The area called ‘Calvados’ was created with the French Revolution. ‘Eau de vie de cidre’
was called ‘calvados’ by common man. Mostly a drink for farmers. Output increased.
19th century
Output increased with industrial distillation. The working class enjoy ‘Café-calva’.
General interest for natural science. The phylloxera outbreak devastates the vineyards and
leads calvados to a ‘golden age’.
20th century
The cider and apple brandy are of great economic importance in Normandy. Improved
and controlled quality. Centrifugation and filtration.
World War 1
Alcohol made for armament. The orchards grow but the quality come to a halt.
World War 2
The ‘Label of origin’ in 1942 officially gives calvados its name and protection from the
war requisitions. Many barrels were opened to celebrate the
Post war and modern days
Reconstruction of cider-houses and distilleries, mainly in the Pays d'Auge. Decline of the
traditional farmhouse structures. Modern agriculture with high output. The remake of the
calvados appellation system in 1984. Pommeau gets its recognition in 1991. The cider
appellations are refined in 1996. 1997 the appellation for Domfront with 30 % pears take
effect.
Calvados producers
See visiting for an excerpt map of the
producers.

Some links and information on

calvados producers in Normandy:
Pere Magloire
Coeur de Lion
Lecompte
Apreval
Huet
Groult
Château du Breuil
Domaine du Coquerel
Boulard
Dupont
Camut
Busnel
Comte Louis de Lauriston
CCLF (La Fermiere)
HEROUT
Champ-Hubert
Remparts
Valdevire
Domaine de la Mérité
Les Vergers de la Passion
HYPERLINK
"http://perso.wanadoo.fr/cidrefermierlebre
ceen/"Val de see
Producers included in the book are:
Column still a double still with continuous distillation for AOC Calvados and Calvados
Domfrontais.
Cream calvados mixed with cream and some caramel.
Cru de Cambremer a government certification among producers around Cambremer for
the quality of the must and cider.
Demi-tige ‘half-stem’, refers to a mix between high- and low-stem. Often a tightly
planted orchard that has grown high.
Distillateur person that operates the distillation.
Domfront region in the south of Normandy distinguished by the addition of pears in
production.
E.A.R.L ‘Exploitation Agricole à Responsabilité Limité’. An abbreviation representing a
special set-up for an agricultural society.
Eau-de-vie ‘water of life’ is the default term in French for spirits in general. In the case
of calvados it is the colourless fruit brandy placed in oak barrels for ageing.
Elevuer buys stocks of calvados and then age it further before bottling. Could also apply
to a producer who buys cider and ‘raises’ it to calvados.
Ethyl acetate an ester that is a by-product of fermentation. It is a fruity, sweet and
vinegary smell. In noticeable amounts are considered a flaw.
Extra calvados with a minimum age of six years of oak ageing.
Fût barrel, cask.
G.A.E.C ‘Groupement Agricole d’Exploitation en Commun’. An abbreviation
representing a juridical setup for an agricultural society.
Gite holiday cottage. Often lent out as a form of bed and breakfast.
Haute-tige ‘high-stem’, refers to a ‘traditional’ orchard with wide planting and high
grown trees. Often also used as pasture.
Hors d’Age without age. Calvados with a minimum age of six years of oak ageing.
IDAC ‘Interproffesion des appellations cidricoles’. The French association of the
calvados producers.
INAO ‘Institut ational des appellations d´origine’. The French association that sets the
guidelines for the appellation system (AOC)
INRA ‘Institut national de la recherche agronomique’. A French association of
agricultural science.
Limousin a forested region in France near Allier, where oak used for barrels is grown.
Maître de chai cellar master who supervises the storage, ageing and the final
assemblage.
Millésime vintage.
Mout must.
Napoléon calvados with a minimum age of six years of oak ageing.
Négociant ‘merchant’ or ‘dealer’
Non reduit not reduced means that the diminution in the percentage of alcohol between
the distillation and the bottling is only due to evaporation.
Part des Anges ‘Angels’ share’ refers to the alcohol and water that evaporates through
the pores of the oak barrels during storage, roughly 4 percent of the volume per year.
Pays d’Auge the region where the most of the highest-rated calvados are made.
Petite eau the result of the first distillation that usually consists of 28–30 percent alcohol.
Pépinière plant nursery; for example Pépinières du PAYS D'AUGE at Route des Trois
Rois in Cambremer.
Pomme Captive apple in a bottle.
Producteur producer.
Producteur agricole traditional agricultural producer.
Produit fermier farm made, all made on the farm according to traditional and high
quality regulations.
Propriétaire ‘owner’ or ‘grower’.
Queue the ‘tail’, afterflow of the distil, which is not used; contains undesirable fusel oils.
Récoltant fruit grower.
Réserve aged for at least 3 years in oak casks.
S.C.E.A stands for ‘Société Civile d’Exploitation Agricole’. An abbreviation
representing a juridical set-up for an agricultural society.
Tannin astringent substances found in the seeds, skins and stems of apples, as well as in
oak barrels, particularly new ones. They provide flavour, structure, and texture and,
because of their antioxidant traits, contribute to long and graceful aging.
Tête the ‘head’, first part of the distillation, which is not used; contains methyl alcohol
and unwanted ester compounds.
Tonneau barrel, cask.
Tonnelier cooper, or barrel maker, a craftsman producing barrels.
Trois étoiles *** the youngest calvados with a minimum age of two or three years
(Domfrontais) of oak ageing.
Trois pommes the youngest calvados with a minimum age of two or three years
(Domfrontais) of oak ageing.
Verger orchard.