RETRO

Issue Three

CLASSIC INFLUENCE. CONTEMPORARY STYLE.

Madchester
Factory is back in production
reviving their glorious club days

Hedonistic
Heritage
How The Hef is celebrating
50 years of the Playboy Club

Paloma FaithThe Truth or Something Beautiful?

 W
elcome to the third issue of
Retro Magazine. This month
you’ll notice that we’ve altered
INSPIRED
a few things. The major change is we’re
now called Retro magazine... You were
calling us that anyway and surprisingly 4 Cameos
it hadn’t been used by another style 10 Top 5
magazine so we decide to snaffle it up.
16 Gadgets
After the fantastic response we got from
the style sections, we’ve decided to go 20 Lifestyle
into cahoots with Location Works, who 24 Motoring
EDITOR’S LETTER

are the biggest suppliers of properties 28 Anniversary

for film and TV in the UK. They’ve got a
spectacular range of properties which
we’ll be getting the keys to and letting
you inside to have a snoop around FEATURES
(page 36).
We are also pretty chuffed to get an
interview with the fabulous Paloma 30 Paloma Faith
Faith, who epitomises what we stand 36 Home Front
for: classic influence with contemporary
styling. We think she’ll be one of the big 40 Factory
stars of the next decade (page 30). 46 Playboy
We’re also focusing on two iconic
brands that are celebrating this month:
Factory with the opening of their new
club FAC251 in the former site of the
Factory Records offices (page 40), and PERSPECTIVE
Playboy Club, who are celebrating their
50th anniversary with a spectacular
array of 50 parties in 50 cities in 50 50 Coq au vin
countries, all on the same night (page 52 Importance of Roots
46). We hope the Hef’s pacemaker is
fully charged.
54 Retrospective

We’re loving the feedback, so keep it

coming.

Bruce Hudson
Editor
Retro Magazine
editor@theretrocollective.com
30
4
10
CONTENTS

36
Cover Image by Alice Hawkins, This Page: Top Left - Charm Factory, Top Right - Vintage at Goodwood,
Bottom Left - Location Works, Bottom Right - Christina Maté
STREET STYLE
CAMEOS

Name: Tiumpa Sen

Age: 19
One person that you ad
Teese
Where do you usually b
clothes?: On e-Bay
Where did you buy your
and for how much?: On
 Words and Pictures by Cristina Maté

Name: Brittany Jamison

Age: 27
One person that you admire?:
Julie London
Where do you usually buy your
clothes?: Second hand stores
mire?: Dita Von
Where did you buy your coat and for
how much?: In California, $25
buy your

r coat
n e-Bay, £5
Words and Pictures by Cristina Maté

Name: Dujardin Rèmi

Age: 21
One person that you admire?:
Mark Hunter
Where do you usually buy your
clothes?: In vintage stores
Where did you buy your jacket and how
much?: In Le Marie (Paris), £45

Name: Hannah Koscian

Age: 29
One person that you admire?: Joan Collins
Where do you usually buy your clothes?: On e-Bay
Where did you buy your glasses and for how
much?: In a car boot sale, £1
 STREET STYLE
CAMEOS

Name: Emily Baker

Age: 25
Where do you usually buy your clothes?:
Top Shop and Vintage shops
Where did you buy your skirt and for how
much?: I made it myself
 STREET STYLE
CAMEOS

Name: Elliot Smith

Age: 18
One person that you admire?:
Johnny Cash
Where do you usually buy your
clothes?: Second hand shops
Where did you buy your shoes and
for how much?:
In Jump The Gun, £115
Five Minutes Inside...
This month we step inside To Be Worn Again, in Sydney
Street, Brighton, UK. This cosy little hub contains a
treasure trove of quality second hand clothes and
accessories, with a large selection of vintage and retro
gear. We thought it sounded right up our street and Kym
Hatala, the manager of TBWA, was even nice enough to
help dress a dummy for us!

Photos by Esther Aventin

Clothes selected by Kym Hatala & Cristina Maté

Bag: £20

Belt: £15
Coat: £45 Shoes: £30
 1
THE

TOP
FIVE
Vintage at Goodwood
Wayne and Gerardine
Hemingway are
behind a new festival
launching in August,
celebrating five decades
of British cool and
they‘ve pulled in some
famous friends to
promote the event:
Vivienne Westwood
model Sara Stockbridge,
model and burlesque
dancer Kitten Von Mew,
Sixties singer Sandie
Shaw, Fifties model
Bronwen Astor, pop star
Lily Allen and Swing Out
Sister singer Corinne
Drewery.
Sound totally decade-nt.
www.vintageatgood-
wood.com
 2
THE

TOP
FIVE
Race Retro
Europe’s premier historic car
event takes place at Stoneleigh
Park. Sir Sterling Moss rates it the
best historic car show he’s been to and
who are we to argue with the great man.
www.raceretro.com
 3
THE

TOP
FIVE
Cadillac Booth Set
Cola Red’s North
American factory has
been making furniture
since the early Fifties and
they’ve been importing this
booth and other retro
furniture into Europe since
2005. Authentic and stylish…
oh happy days.
www.cola-red.com
Tin Tin by Nick Munro
Inspired by the comics his dad
bought for him when he was a
nipper, Tintin was his favourite.
He made this coffee pot out of
pewter (which is mostly tin) and in
the shape of Tintin’s rocket. His dad
thinks it’s his best design. Aw bless.
www.nickmunro.com

4
THE

TOP
FIVE
 5
THE

TOP
FIVE
Juicy Orange
Fridge Freezer by
Gorenje
The coolest thing to
come out of
Slovenia, well ever,
these fridges are
styled in bright, lusty
hues of Lime Green,
Raspberry Pink and
Juicy Orange with
handles available
either in the timeless
and fashionable
chrome or in the
colour of the chosen
fridge exterior.
www.gorenje.co.uk
Inspired
New products Classic influence

iPad Clutch
£TBC
Twit. Twoo. You’ll be a doubly
happy owl, this month, when you
buy the ipad because The Happy
Owl design studio has come up
with this rather natty ‘Clutch’.
With space for your mobile,
wallet and other bits and bobs for
when you head off to the office,
just don’t leave it on the tube
when you’re coming back
twatted, after a Friday session in
the boozer. Available from April.
www.happyowlstudio.com

Umazone USB Speakers

$25
Fan of steampunk? Then these USB
speakers, which work with Windows XP,
Vista & 7, are a must have. The four
vacuum tubes contain a blue LED which
flicker along with the tunes you put on.
Available in two colours: metallic silver
and black.
www.umazone.jp
 gadgets
Specimen Horn Speakers
$1850
The Little Horns (steady) can be used with almost
any stereo system, and are also uniquely suited to
low-power (10-watts or less per channel), single-
ended triode (SET) tube amplifiers. They’re 36” tall
overall and the bell of the horn is 14” across (be-
have). The base is an 8” cube and will sit nicely on a
10” deep shelf… and, well, frankly if these don’t give
you the horn, then nothing will!
www.specimenproducts.com

Triphos DoDoNa Cube

$170
Korean Company, Triphos has introduced their latest
portable mp3 player the DoDoNA S-100 (the person
who named it obviously has really podgy fingers). The
MP3 Player is a 1.1-inch OLED display, built-in
speakers, FM radio, voice recorder, and 4GB of
internal memory. We like it although it looks like you’ll
find Mini Me’s washing inside.
www.gobizkorea.com

AIAIAI Tracks Headphones

$59
Inspired by the Walkman, the development of
the Track has been a collaboration with Kilo
Design to ensure the latest speaker driver
technology and material craftsmanship. The
40mm speaker offer a full-spectrum sonic
experience from the deepest base to high fre-
quency tones. But as soon as we heard Kilo
was involved we thought that’s going to set us
back a few pounds. We were wrong.
www.revolveclothing.com
gadgets

Polaroid PIC 1000

$100
When I first saw this I wasn’t sure if I should take photos with it or plane the nearest door.
But the wood grain finish is a grower and all part of ‘The Impossible Project’ between
Polaroid and long term partner Summit Global Group, to offer a completely redesigned,
modern version of the Polaroid OneStep camera, the PIC 1000. We’re all for plans to
re-release the old instant-film cameras and the famous Color 600 instant film. They’ll hit
the shops in April.
www.polaroid.com

JVC RV NB50 Kaboom

$299.95
Now who can resist a boom box. JVC is
shaking the room with the RV-NB50
Kaboom. It’s got the basics you’d
expect…CD player, FM radio but keeping
in line with recent releases has an iPod
dock and line-in port. Those generous
guys at JVC even throw in a shoulder
strap, so you can blast some unsuspecting
pensioners on the go. Note...when
carrying make sure you don’t forget to put
your Seventies ‘fro comb in your hair.
www.jvc.com
 Inspired
New products Classic influence

Oasis Flow Digital Radio

£25
The Oasis Flow combines digital
radio and FM reception with a
Wi-Fi connection. This recharge-
able internet-connected radio
comes in a rugged weatherproof
case, cast aluminium framework
and rubber seals which means it
might, just about, survive the
rigours of the English summer.
www.pure.com

MP3 DJ Mixer
£120
Superstar DJ here we go and
according to Urban Outfitters “this
iPod DJ mixer brings a new level
of professionalism to the bedroom
DJ.” and yes the SPIN knob
simulates the scratch feature on a
DJ turntable. Looks like the heady
days of bedroom air guitar and hair
brush karaoke are over. Welcome
to the Summer of Bedroom Love.
www.urbanoutfitters.co.uk
lifestyle

Kartell Cindy Table Lamp by Ferruccio Laviani

£137
I guess Dallas in the late 70s was the closest that decade
came to bling and these look like they’ve been lifted from
the Poison Dwarf’s bedside table. There is just something
about these table lamps which screams ‘turn the lights
down low, baby’ but remember to keep them out of JR’s
reach as he’d loved to throw one of these at Cliff.
www.heals.co.uk

‘The Hef’ Sofa

$15,000
Mad Men star Bryan Batt runs
Hazelnut New Orleans, a trendy
home decor showroom that boasts
fine pottery, stemware, and a
Playboy sofa! In honour of Playboy
Club’s 50th Anniversary Batt has
designed ‘The Hef’. There are only
50 ‘The Hef’s, and check this out,
founder Hugh Hefner has signed
each one. Simply shagtastic!
www.hazelnutneworleans.com
 Inspired
New products Classic influence
Lodge Enamel Cast-Iron Apple Pot
£ 81.60
Comes in a tasty red or green apple
shape and is great for slow cook
stews and casseroles when you
need an even cook that holds the
heat. Cast iron has a non-stickiness
so you don’t have to worry about
scything through the coating at the
bottom of the pan.
www.overstock.com

Soehnle Retro Digital Kitchen Scale

£66.73
This scale provides measurements in
analog but covers itself with a more
detailed digital readings underneath. So
if you are doing a Bridget Jones, you can
make sure every item is measured and
counted to the nth degree. Oh sod it, get
a pizza in and while you’re at it where’s
the fags and the booze!
www.amazon.co.uk

Michael Jackson knitted puppet

£POA
We haven’t done Michael justice here
because if you go on to Popo and
Sousa’s myspace page he moves, oh
yes he does. They have 183 friends
on their site. And that, my friend, is a
very good thing indeed and goes a
little towards explaining why God
rested on the seventh day.
www.myspace.com/poupeetsoso
Inspired
New products Classic influence

Retro-Tech Computer tables

£POA
The tables come in a choice of dedicated game player or pc
based, with internet and wireless keyboard. The pc-based
table has a hi-spec pc, dual core processor and wireless
keyboard.This one comes preloaded with 60 classic arcade
games and an optional coin mechanism. Wizard!
www.retrotech.co.uk

Lavazza Mio Modo coffee maker

£119.95
Lavazza have added these natty
colours to their ultra chic espresso
coffee maker which uses cutting edge
extraction technology to produce an
exceptionally full-bodied and creamy
espresso. The steam arm allows you
to prepare perfect cappuccinos and
lattes and there’s a hot water function
for making tea.
Our mornings will never be the same.
www.johnlewis.com

Normann Copenhagen Heima Candlesticks

£19.99- £82.49
This cutting-edge design brand launched
in 1999 and now sells in over 70 countries.
These elegant candlesticks by Francis
Cayouette are made from cast iron and
were inspired by the Nordic tradition of
lighting and cosiness from living flames.
www.scp.co.uk
 lifestyle
LG retro TV serie 1
$216
A14-inch diagonal screen, complete with rabbit-ear antennae
and chrome legs with old-school knobs for changing channels
and adjusting volume. It does have a modern twist with digital
tuner, composite video for your retro video game console,
and a wireless remote. No mention anywhere of your Dad
telling you to turn it off and do your homework. We think that
comes as an extra.
www.lge.com
Motoring

Dodge Challenger Mopar

Like to drive fast. Then this is for you, as this baby ain’t legal on the motorway. The Challenger is a
high-horsepower super-stock styled on cars built forty years ago for the original drag-track specials
and the 2010 Dodge Challenger Drag Race Package allows you to relive those days with a retro-styled
‘Performance Appearance Package’ that ticks all the boxes.
www.dodge.com/en/2010/challenger
r
Toyota FT-CH hybrid
concept
Toyota wants to turn the Prius brand into a family with 8 potential new hybrid
models scheduled. Plug-in hybrids and battery electrics are planned by 2012,
and hydrogen fuel cell vehicles for 2015. But if all the talk of global warming is
to be believed then where’s the underwater model. Just a thought like.
www.toyota.co.uk
Nike Air Jordan
25th Anniversary release
1
The Jordan Brand is celebrating their
25th Anniversary in 2010. So to
honour the great man’s legacy,
there’s going to be a series of shoes
released throughout the year. The
Nike Air Jordan 1 Retro in grey, white
and metallic silver are the first to be
slamdunked on us.
Features a commemorative “23/25″
logo on the tongue and comes boxed
in an aluminium briefcase (just in
case you need to make some notes
while you’re lining up a three-pointer).
Inspired
New products Classic influence
Photos: Alice Hawkins/ The Charm Factory

magic
c in the air
After witnessing a standout performance on Jools
Holland’s Hootenanny, Bruce Hudson talks to the
flamboyantly determined Paloma Faith and discovers
the former conjurer’s assistant has more than a few
tricks up her sleeve

N
ew Year’s Eve, 2010, my wife and I contradiction, the wonderfully curious, the incredibly
heroically choose to stay up (we have a one intoxicating (well it was in keeping with the night)
year old) and watch Jools Holland’s Paloma Faith. She performed New York in a dress
Hootenanny in front of a roaring fire in our friend’s on which a university theses could be written, but
Devonshire cottage. With the Merlot beginning to suffice to say it was The Statue of Liberty….with
flow, a couple of great mates and the audience of fringing. This girl has style.
celebrities to vicariously stumble Aaah, I hear you ask but could she
drunkenly through the festivities sing? Well, with a very firm nod of the
(take a bow Eddie Irvine and Al
She is dressed head, her performance was a
Murray - your inebriation did us divinely but, knock-out. But her appearance made
proud) the night succeeded in tak- me nervous. Why the hell hadn’t I
ing on a rosy glow. The ubiquitous
rather surprisingly, heard of her? If she was on Jools
Florence and the Machine perform, when her mouth Holland she must be a big star?
and rightly so as during the latter
part of 2009 they had been, well,
opens she speaks Right? Damn it! Why did they get rid
of Top of the Pops!!
ubiquitous. Jools Holland with a Danny Dyer, So I decided to go in search of
schmoozes with the audience, then Paloma Faith and discovered I wasn’t
schmoozes with Florence and then
Laaanden drawl the only one who hadn’t heard of this
schmoozes, as only Jools can, with bright new thing. An anecdotal survey
an elfin, pixie-like creature who is overly excited to of friends and colleagues reveals the occasional
be there (like a child who has drunk too much nod and one fan and a visit to HMV doesn’t shed
orange squash at their own birthday party). She is much more light. Her debut album is falling off the
dressed divinely but, rather surprisingly, when her charts at 54 (it peaked at 9 in the official listings),
mouth opens she speaks with a Danny Dyer, but a chat with the manager says she’s had two top
Laaanden drawl. 20 singles off the album and she’s ‘bubbling under’.
And, there you have it, we are introduced to the I decide to send a Facebook message to her
requesting an interview and by the
end of the day she has responded,
saying ‘great’ and before I know it
I’ve entered the whirlwind that is
Paloma’s life.
She subsequently cancels twice
and when I finally get hold of her
she admits “that this week I had
seven days of stuff packed in, and
anything that wasn’t 100% got
knocked out”. A quick peek at her
twitter page backs this up as she
has performed at the Jazz Café,
flown off to and performed in
Finland and been in a Channel 4
short film.
Curiouser & Curiouser
I finally get to speak to her the
day after the Brit Awards, where
she is noticeable by her absence of
any nominations, particularly for the
Newcomer of the Year award.
Curiouser and curiouser? Her
original reaction to the snub on
Twitter was “Ho hum! I didnt get
nominated for a Brit Award but nor
did Amy [Winehouse] on her first
album so I will try not to get upset.”
So is there frustration at how the
debut album has performed?
“I’ve achieved more than I ever
imagined. But as soon as you’ve
achieved something then the bar is
raised. It’s inevitable that next time I
want it to do more. When you look
from the outside at the industry I’m
in, it looks so glamorous and people
do it with me. ‘You’re a big celebrity
now’, but I still manage to get on
the bus and tube and not be
recognised constantly. I do
sometimes but it’s not difficult for
me to carry on the way I was.”
But she’s working hard to change
all of that.
Paloma was born Paloma Faith
Blomfield, 1985, in Hackney,
London to a Spanish father and a
British mother and describes herself
as a ‘proud Londoner’. Her first job
was at 14 working in a café in
Islington, washing up. It was during
this period that she first started to
Photo: Saul/ The Charm Factory
be inspired by the vintage look
that has become her signature
both on and off the stage.
“I was inspired by Marilyn
Monroe. My cousin was obsessed
by her and had all these posters in
her bedroom and I wanted to be
like my cousin so I copied her.”
The singing was slower to take off,
although she used to perform
covers at school concerts. “I was
singing songs by bands like Brand
New Heavies but being honest
nobody ever liked it.”
From school she went to Leeds
to train as a dancer but as she
admits, “that was a real shock to
the system because I’m such a
proud Londoner, but I thought that
might be my only opportunity to
leave. But I wasn’t into it. It was
quite a negative time for me
training to be a dancer. It was very
narcissistic. It taught you to
“I’ve achieved scrutinise yourself physically and
more than I ever I don’t think that’s healthy for
anybody.”
imagined. But as During this period she did a “bit
soon as you’ve of singing with a teacher and I also
started writing but it was shit.”
achieved It was on her return to London and
something then in particular to St Martin’s (she has
a MA in Theatre Direction) that
the bar is raised. she really started to blossom and
It’s inevitable that the creative juices began to flow.
“That was a really inspiring
next time I want to place to be. That opened me up to
do more” lots of possibilities. It gave me a
sense of freedom like how I could
express myself.” When I ask her
how she got into St Martin’s
there’s a sharp intake of breath.
“I got a first for my degree
dissertation. I like to pretend that
I’m stupid so that people think they
can run rings round me and then I
can quickly lash out.”
Under The Influence
The fact that she’s a smart
cookie comes as no surprise. The
depth and variety of her work and
influences betray this. It’s not many young pop stars
who would cite Josephine Baker (noted as much for
her services to civil rights as being the first African
American to star in a major motion picture) as their
hero or when asked to name a song to chill out to
would select ‘I’d Rather Go Blind’ by Etta James or
heading out to a party would put on ‘Bloodshot
Eyes’ by Wynonie Harris.
But the way Paloma has got to the front of stage
is anything but traditional.
A trawl through her CV shows she has had a
unbelievably colourful career juggling jobs as a
sales assistant at Agent Provocateur, a singer in a
burlesque cabaret, a life model and even a
magician’s assistant. She sites her mother as the
driving force and wanting Paloma to be everything
she wasn't. "She put great value on things that
people take for granted, like being able to swim and
dance and drive, the things she couldn't do."
You get the feeling the drive really comes from
within Paloma, and her own influences are
beginning to take centre stage. “My mum has
always been massively encouraging and
supporting of me but Marisa Carnesky, a
performance artist who did the Ghost Train I was on
and initiated the burlesque revival in the Eighties,
has been a huge mentor to me.”
Stage Presence
These influences are also reflected in her live
shows, which she prides herself on, as each
performance is unique. The stage, of course, is
crafted by Paloma, where she is as likely to make a
dramatic entrance sporting a huge feather plume,
as a variation on the showgirl, or carrying an
oversized balloon, but one who takes her
influences from a vast knowledge of film and
theatrical culture extremely seriously. An acute
sense of dynamic and drama punctuate the show,
enhancing songs that draw on musical influences
 She describes her
live performances as
“David Lynch meets
William Blake at the
circus”
as diverse as Billie Holiday, Etta James, P J Harvey much time. At the moment, as you know, my
and Edith Piaf. She describes one of her early schedule is absolutely ridiculous.”
performances as “David Lynch meets William Blake I wouldn’t put it past her to achieve both, but like
at the circus.” The audience dress up and knew the one of her idols, Etta James, it might be a while
words to all the songs before the before she gets the recognition from a
debut album was even released.
“I got a first for wider audience. It’s notable that when I
It comes therefore as no real my degree ask her for a career highlight so far it’s
surprise for a girl who likes to make not the top ten album or the star-
a visual impact that she has made it
dissertation. studded film performances, it’s the
on to the silver screen. I like to pretend appearance that I saw on the Jools
In 2007, she was the saucy emo
in blockbuster St Trinian's, alongside
that I’m stupid so Holland show.
“I guess the fact I went on the show
Rupert Everett and Russell Brand. that people think and then got asked to go back. I was
More recently Terry Gilliam cast her probably the least known act on New
as the girlfriend of the devil (played
they can run Year’s. I felt really honoured to be the
by Tom Waits) in The Imaginarium of rings round me one person to be on there who hasn’t
Doctor Parnassus, starring the late had the longevity [career-wise]. I was
Heath Ledger and Johnny Depp.
and then I totally having fun.”
When I ask her if she could choose can quickly So I’m feeling rather chuffed that,
an Academy Award or a Number although my wild-partying days may be
One album she has to stop to think.
lash out” on hold for the foreseeable, I stayed in,
“I think the number one album. I really enjoy acting because an evening with friends, family, Jools
and I want to do more. But it’s really hard to get the Holland, Paloma and a roaring log fire was just
headspace to be on a film because it demands so about the perfect way to see in the New Year!

Paloma’s Album ‘Do You Want The Truth Or

Something Beautiful’ is available now on Sony
Records.

She is currently touring the UK, for more

information and booking details go to
www.palomafaith.com

Also available is the charity single ‘Put A Spell

On You’ to raise money for relief and aid for
earthquake-stricken Haiti. The song features
Paloma with Shane MacGowan, Nick Cave
and Chrissie Hynde to name but a few.
To preorder your copy for just 79p and support
a good cause at the same time click here:
http://www.7digital.com/artists/shane-mac-
gowan-and-friends/i-put-a-spell-on-you
 Home Front

Basement Jaxx
We thought you might like a sneak look around some of the inspiring properties and locations that
are influenced by the styles of the past so we’ve teamed up with Europe’s largest location
company, Location Works, who provide a location finding and management service for the film
and television industries and a complete production and location service for the photographic
industry. They have an extraordinary range of locations on their books ranging from derelict
buildings, lofts and conversions, to castles and palaces. If you have a location which may be of
interest to the Location Works email us at editor@theretrocollective.com

Based in north-west London this is a large basement exhibition gallery with an extraordinary
cornucopia of 20th century, classic furniture in large open areas and individual room settings.
 Home Front

Fit for a Queen

This lush, romantic, boudoir-style house with an eclectic and cluttered interior is based
in north-west London.

If you have a location which may be of interest to the Location Works email us at
editor@theretrocollective.com
Clocking Back In
The original Factory headquarters where New Order, Joy Division and The
Happy Mondays were launched has been transformed into a nightclub by Peter
Hook. Geraldine Spencer tracks the extraordinary history of a name
that refuses to die
FAC 251 opens this month on the site of the Factory Record’s headquarters after a
complete refit to unveil a new club in homage to the iconic Haçienda.
The club features three main rooms, continuing the Haçienda favourite night ‘Stone
Love’, a Haçienda Presents room with Mancunian legends on the decks and a third
room playing the best in Seventies and Eighties Funk and Electro.
The venue is a joint venture of Factory Record’s Peter Hook and Aaron Mellor of
Tokyo Industries - the people behind the award-winning Digital clubs in Newcastle
and Brighton. Also involved is Ben Kelly, the original Factory and Haçienda
architect, who has completely reworked the building to suit its new purpose.
Undoubtedly one of the most influential British music labels, we trace the Factory
story from its humble beginnings, to the present day.

1978
The name ‘Factory’ was originally used for a club night
run by Granada TV presenter Tony Wilson and Alan
Erasmus, a band manager and unemployed actor, with
bands The Durutti Column, Cabaret Voltaire and Joy
Division heading the bill. Graphic designer Peter
Saville designed posters.

1979
When Joy Division’s manager Rob Gretton
wanted the band to record for a local label to
bypass the impenetrable London-centric
music industry, Factory Records with Wilson,
Erasmus, Saville and Martin Hannett (who
was poached from John Cooper Clarke’s label
Rabid Records) was born.
1979 gave us Joy Division’s debut ‘Unknown
Pleasures’. A year later Gretton became the
fifth partner in Factory Records.
In May 1980 Joy Division singer Ian Curtis committed suicide just
before the band was due to tour the US. The following month Joy
Division’s ‘Love Will Tear Us Apart’ reached the UK top twenty and
the second album ‘Closer’
was released in July. In late
1980 the remaining
members of Joy Division
continued as New Order.

1980

1982
Everything Factory did had its own
catalogue number, from the first flyer, to
Haçienda house wines, to a lawsuit filed against
the label by producer Martin Hannett. In May
1982 Factory and New Order opened a
nightclub, the Haçienda (FAC51) in a converted
Victorian textile factory near the centre of
Manchester, which won acclaim for its interior
designed by Ben Kelly and was hugely
successful in attendance terms. New Order and
Tony Wilson were directors of the club, however
the club lost copious amounts of money in the
first years due to unsustainably low bar prices
(cheaper than the local pubs), and equally low
entrance fees. Increasing bar prices failed to
compensate for the losses, clubbers
preferring ecstasy to alcohol with the club
costing New Order £10,000 per month.
 New Order’s Blue Monday became an
international hit in 1983 and 1985 saw the first
release by The Happy Monday’s. These two

1983
bands were the most successful for Factory
and funded other projects. Factory and the
Haçienda became the cultural heart of the
dawning techno and acid house genres and
their synthesis with post-punk guitar music,
becoming known as the Madchester scene.

By 1992 serious financial trouble blighted Factory

1992
due to overfunding their two most successful
bands. The Happy Mondays went on a drug binge
recording their fourth and last album Yes Please! in
Barbados before leaving the Factory label. New
Order allegedly spent £400,000 on recording their

1994
In 1994 Wilson attempted to
comeback album Republic. London Records
declared an interest in taking over Factory but the
deal dissipated when they learned Factory
eschewed contracts; New Order owned their back
revive Factory Records with catalogue rather than the label.
cooperation from London Factory Communications Ltd declared bankruptcy
Records, “Factory Too”. The in November 1992 and many Factory signings
first release was from The moved to London Records, including New Order.
Durutti Column, followed by
Hopper, Space Monkeys and
new signing Stephin Merritt’s
The 6ths: Wasps’ Nest.

1997
The Haçienda lost its
entertainment licence and
closed in 1997.
A charity auction was held in
November 2000 to sell off all of
the fixtures and fittings from the
iconic club.
The site was bought by
property developers Crosby
Homes and was demolished, to
be replaced by a modern luxury
apartment block in 2003.
1997
The label continued until the late 1990s with
Factory Once, which reissued old Factory
material. Wilson, frustrated with London
Records need for profit left and founded the
short lived Factory Records Ltd with only
Space Monkeys on his books, who released
“The Daddy of Them All”. By this time The
Durutti Column and Hopper had left Factory..

2006
In 2006 Wilson launched F2 Records with
Raw-T (a grime collective), The Young
Offenders Institute and online tracks from The
Durutti Column. The label folded in 2007 when
Wilson discovered he had cancer.

In 2002 the film ‘24 Hour Party People’ was released, to

critical acclaim. It followed the story of Factory Records, the
Haçienda and the bands and people involved. It starred
Steve Coogan as Tony Wilson and Ralf Little as Peter Hook,
along with other big name actors such as John Simm,
Paddy Considine, Rob Brydon and Simon Pegg. The film
was entered into the 2002 Cannes film festival.

2002
 2007
On August 10th 2007, Tony Wilson
died. At his funeral his coffin bore the
catalogue number FAC501.

2010
February of this year saw the opening of FAC251, located on the site of the
Factory Records headquarters.
The night was headlined by Peter Hook’s band The Light, who played a 17 song
set featuring New Order, Joy Division, Monaco and Freebass tracks. Hook was
joined onstage by Primal Scream and former Stone Roses bassist Mani,
Howard Marks, Gary Briggs, Rowetta and his son Jack.
Sporting a shirt with a quote from Tony Wilson - “We made history, not money”,
they gave a performance Mr Wilson himself would have been proud of.
Hottest Ticket
As Playboy Club organise a series of spectacular events
to mark their 50th anniversary, Geraldine Spencer
reveals the facts behind the fantasy
 F
1
ebruary 29th 1960 - Hugh Hefner
opens the first Playboy Club at 116 E
Walton, Chicago, Illinois. Inspired by
Burton Brown’s Chicago chain of Gaslight
Clubs, the bar featured ‘Bunny Girls’ -
complete with fluffy tail, who served drinks
to key holders, with entertainment from
some of the country’s top performers.

2 T
he Iconic Bunny costume has
been worn over the years by
over 25,000 working ‘Bunnies’,
and was the first uniform to be

3
issued a trademark registration by

P
layboy Club membership
became a status symbol,
although only 21% of all key
holders actually attended any club.
Membership cost $25 each and
earned Playboy $25 million for every
1,000,000 members, this revenue being
critical to Playboy’s development.
During the last three months of 1961,
over 132,000 visitors crossed the
threshold, making it the busiest club
in the world.
the US patent and trademark office.
Now one of the world’s most
recognised uniforms, the costume
was redesigned in 2006 by Roberto
Cavalli for the Playboy Club Las
Vegas Bunnies and Playboy Club
Celebrity Dealers, including Jenny
McCarthy and Carmen Electra.

t In Town
world’s sexiest party
To celebrate the club’s anniversary, 50 playboy club parties will be held in 50
different cities worldwide, including Las Vegas, Miami, Cancun, London, Hong
Kong, San Diego, Chicago and Johannesburg all on the same night- June
10th. For one night only the venues will open their doors as honorary ‘Playboy
Clubs’ to celebrate the occasion. For updates and information go to:
www.playboyclub50.com.
4 T
he bespoke design of a
rabbit wearing a tuxedo bow
tie was designed by Art Paul
for the second issue - originally
as an end note. But Hefner,
saying he liked the “humorous

sexual connotation” and because
it was “frisky and playful”,
adopted it as the official logo for
Playboy. A running joke in the
P
layboy Clubs have sold nearly
2.5 million membership keys to
become one of the most
successful nightclub chains in history.

5
magazine involves hiding the logo The Playboy Clubs, together with the
somewhere in the cover art or hotel, casino and resort facilities,
photograph. eventually included 40 properties in 25
states and seven countries. The
privileged Playboy Club key holders of
today include a host of celebrities:
P. Diddy, Usher, Paris Hilton, Dennis
Hopper, Dave Navarro, Jamie Presley
and Michael Phelps.

I
In 1965 Victor Lownes
opened Playboy’s British
casinos on behalf of Hugh
Hefner, following the
legalisation of gambling in the
UK. Gaming income financed
6
(with disaster) : clubs, theatres,
resorts, record companies and
film investments. Compared to
the Club and casino revenue,
Playboy magazine’s turnover
was extremely modest.

50th Anniversary Products

Playboy are to launch a collection of specially designed anniversary
merchandise. Products include Vintage-inspired tee shirts, Bunny-inspired
lingerie, special edition glassware and “The Hef” Loveseat designed by
Mad Men’s Bryan Batt, signed by The Hef himself (see page 20).
The products will be available online at www.playboyclubstore.com and at
retail outlets across the globe including Ann Summers (UK), Urban Outfitters
(US), and Top Man (UK).
 7
T
he first playboy magazine
centrefold was of Marilyn

8
Monroe, although she didn’t
actually pose. The first issue sold

out in weeks; known circulation
was 53,991, the cover price 50
cents. The novel Fahrenheit 451
by Ray Bradbury was serialised in
the March, April and May 1954
issues. In 2002, copies of the first
edition in almost mint condition
sold for $5,000.
B
ritish casinos
contributed $32
million to the
corporation, the 45 Park
Lane casino being the most
profitable in 1981. That year
Playboy profits were
estimated to be $31 million.
However 1981 witnessed
the demise of Victor

9
Lownes; he was fired and
gambling licenses not
renewed, severing
Playboy’s main income
source; this created a

P
layboy recently financial crisis only
opened a new club in resolved by radical changes
Las Vegas, Nevada within the empire.
known as The Palms, with
its conspicuous neon bunny
head. It has bars, casinos
and a restroom featuring
Playmate pin-ups.

Playboy Redux Art Exhibition

In Collaboration with The Andy Warhol
Museum, more than 20 established and
emerging artists have been invited to
reinterpret the iconic Playboy Bunny.
The artists use a variety of mediums
ranging from painting to video, and
feature works from Jeremy Fish, Gary
Baseman, Scott Anderson, Jeremy
Kost, and Kalup Linzy. Playboy Redux:
Contemporary Artists Interpret the
Iconic Playboy Bunny will be on display
at the Pittsburgh museum from March
27 through June 19, 2010. For more
information visit:
www.Playboy.com/Bunny50
Hilary Tailor
Importance Of Roots
After ten years in the sportswear industry working for adidas and
Puma as a trend and colour consultant, Hilary set up her own
design consultancy, HST Creative. She now works with clients in
sportswear, fashion, design and publishing.

This month Hilary looks at the foundation of brand heritage and

what it means to stick by it.

M
INE!” It‘s a Saturday morning and I am Cadbury lies within the story it has to tell. It is a
watching my two children argue bitterly over story of heritage, ideals and the ethical growth of
an empty shoebox they both believe to be capitalism. It’s not just chocolate, it’s an idea, an
theirs. Even at the age of two, a person places the emotion - which is so intertwined in British culture it
idea of ownership pretty high on the list. is like having a family member declare they are
Flicking through the paper, I see an article leaving home and won’t ever come back to visit.
declaring the author resolves to buy only British We, the British population, are devastated because
goods this year. And then there’s Cadbury’s. It’s a we invested emotion in Cadbury’s…we were reared
jewel in the crown of British brands. on it by indulgent grandparents. It is firmly rooted in
“It’s a horror story,” says the great granddaugh- the past and yet ever present, unchanged. The fact
ter of George Cadbury, Felicity Loudon. "As a that 40% of the company is currently owned by
Cadbury, I obviously feel particularly saddened by outside investment is skillfully ignored. So who else
the possibility of one of the last remaining British should have a such a place in our hearts?
icons disappearing into an American plastic cheese Cherchbi, is a British made accessories
company. I cannot believe that something can't be company, and has more than a few similarities to
done for totally patriotic reasons.” the Cadbury’s of old. The designs, materials,
She’s not the only one horrified at the prospect hardware and manufacture all originate in the north
of Kraft’s takeover bid. Since the announcement of the country. The owner, Adam Atkinson, is more
the indignation of the interested in produc-
British public remains ing great British
undimmed, which is product in the UK
weird because there than looking for
wasn’t much uproar cheap mass manu-
when our airports were facture outside the
sold to the Spanish, or country. “British
when a majority of our manufacture is at the
power supply was heart of the brand, it’s
handed over to French the keystone which
and German companies. locks everything
So why does Cadbury within Cherchbi
inspire such passion? in place.”
We can do without His family was
chocolate…we can’t do involved in the arts
without heat and light. and crafts movement
The importance of Traditionalists were against the takeover bid from Kraft and his father was a
shoemaker for over 40 years. So it follows that tartan, waxed cotton) engaged in ale drinking, and
history is very important to Adam; it runs throughout country house living. She was more British than we
his design inspiration. He calls it ‘heritage were. Is there a sneaking suspicion creeping up on
aesthetic’. But would he use facili- us now? Could Kraft out-English
ties outside the UK to grow the
When Madonna us? Might the product be mar-
company, if it made financial moved to the UK, she keted more effectively? Might
sense? An emphatic no. “It’s they, gasp, actually sell our
integral to the company. There’s
out-Britished us, chocolate to foreigners? Speak-
enough manufacturing in the British she supported ing as somebody who endured a
Isles to support Cherchbi. It’s not chocolate-free 8 years in Ger-
going to be Paul Smith, but that’s
traditional fabrics, many because they didn’t do
not what the company’s about.” engaged in ale Cadbury, I can attest to the frus-
When you talk to the founder of a tration of seeing how poorly we
company like this, it is very easy to
drinking and country Brits market ourselves. This frus-
see how his emotional investment house living. She was tration is doubled when I witness
transfers over to his customers, American colleagues living
and how that could snowball when
more British than we largely on a diet of Cream Eggs
the company expands, just like were. Could Kraft and Whole Nut when they visit
Cadbury. the UK. Why don’t we export our
But what happens when British
out-English us? talents? 95% of Cadbury’s choco-
companies grow too big to sustain themselves? And late is eaten by the British. This is not a figure to be
should we take the long proud of.
view if we are faced with We should be sharing
a brand leaving British the love, not hogging it.
hands in order to survive? And it’s no good arguing
Manchester United back that the Americans
fans will be familiar with will destroy jobs and
such bereavement when re-locate production to
the Glazers took over, but Eastern Europe to cut
who remembers that HP costs as Cadbury
Sauce is owned and announced they were
produced abroad? And going to do just that in
who cares? It works both 2008. It is a great British
ways, too. Do the pastime to moan about
Americans resent the misfortune, but it doesn’t
British ownership of their do us any good. We as a
Cherchbi’s products have always been British
Greyhound buses? nation have to stop being
made-something which is ‘integral’ to the company
Probably not. They so negative and look at
remain an American icon. this as an opportunity.
So why is everyone We have to hope that
getting into such a steam Kraft bought our jewel in
about Cadbury? Bizarrely the crown because it has
enough, the answer may all the things they don’t,
lie with Madonna, the and they will need to
grandma of pop. treasure that. But if they
When Madonna muck it up and make our
moved to the UK to live chocolate crappy, plastic
with Guy Ritchie, she and tasteless?
out-Britished us. Apart Well, there will be a
from the terrible accent, nice gap in the market
she supported traditional for us to fill then, won’t
British fabrics (tweed, there?
Jeremy Daldry
Coq au vin
Jeremy Daldry spends most of his time skulking round kitchens or
with his nose in an obscure cookbook. He’s also made food shows
for the BBC, commissioned food shows for UKTV Food and had a
brief career writing in the national press, about food.

This month, Jeremy is coq-sure of himself as he goes in

search of a tough old bird

W
hen it comes to retro, you can’t get much little bit more glamorous and French. Even if we
more retro than the combination of red came from Colchester, which, as anyone who has
wine, bacon, mushrooms and an old ever been will testify, is about as far from any sense
farmhouse chicken. of glamour as you can get. And, of course, it was
Legend has it coq au vin was invented for Julius always made with a pale English chicken rather
Caesar as he made his conquering way through than a robust French coq.
Gaul. And certainly it’s a great dish to fortify you The whole point of a long slow, braising dish
against the soggy French countryside as you such as this, with fat in the form of bacon and a
merrily go around subjugating, healthy slosh of alcohol are to
murdering and generally being a The dish had a whiff coax some tenderness into an
right-royal Italian pain in the arse. of the continent about otherwise tough and unyield-
One suspects if coq au vin was truly ing bird. Use a young chicken
a dish created for a conquering it, an air of and you can end up with a
Caesar, whoever the downtrodden sophistication; and cloying, gluey mess with an
French chef who first prepared it unsatisfactorily tasteless
was, probably added a little of his made us sauce and none of the big,
own ‘special sauce’ by way of biting all feel that little bit robust flavours you’d expect.
political satire. Never annoy the chef So the challenge becomes
and/or burn down his village – you more glamorous and to hunt down a coq yourself. I
will get spit (or worse) in your dinner. French. Even if we searched high and low in
So fast-forward a couple of some of the best butchers in
thousand years; the Roman Empire came from London and while most said
has fallen, one suspects that the Colchester they could order me a bird,
French are still pissing in our soup imported at great expense
and Julius Caesar and Kenneth Williams have from France (somewhat making a mockery of what
become the same person. is meant to be a hearty peasant dish) none had a
But coq au vin is still one of the best dishes in coq in stock. In the end I settled for the gamest,
the world…if you can get a good coq. It might have toughest looking chicken that I could find.
fallen out of favour a little, but right through the 60s Once you’ve got yourself a game old bird then
and 70s it was a staple of a thousand local French the recipe is simplicity itself, joint the chicken
bistros and suburban dinner parties where it was (something that your butcher should be more than
often served with, God forbid, rice and some awful happy to do for you) and then it’s just a matter of
German wine. The dish had a whiff of the continent getting everything on the hob before cracking open
about it, an air of sophistication; it went perfectly your best bottle of red, putting some Serge on the
with Serge Gainsbourg’s pornographic muttering CD player, sitting back and thinking suitable Gaelic
emanating from the stereo and made us all feel that thoughts.

A large jointed chicken
Half a dozen rashers of unsmoked
streaky bacon
2 onions
A large carrot
A stick of celery
2 or 3 cloves of garlic
Sprinkling of flour
Slosh of brandy
Chicken stock
A bottle of red wine
A few sprigs of thyme
A couple of bay leaves
Butter
Plain flour
Large handful of small brown
mushrooms
Cut the bacon into strips and fry off with a little but-
ter in the bottom of a large casserole until they are
golden brown but not burnt. Remove and put to one
side.
Season the chicken with salt & pepper and place
skin-side down in the casserole. You want to
develop a golden colour to the skin as this is where
the deep flavour will come from.
Once the skin looks beautifully browned turn the
chicken over and briefly colour the flesh side. Take
the chicken out.
Put the chopped onions, carrots and celery into the
pan. If you want you can dice all the veg relatively
small to give the dish a more refined look or leave
them chunkier to make the whole thing more peas-
antry. But don’t cut them straight through, cut small
or on an angle to increase the surface area.
Just before returning the bacon and chicken to the
pan add the chopped garlic. Add thyme and bay.
Cover with the red wine. You have to be prepared to
give up a whole bottle of decent French red and if
you want to be bang on the money it should be
Beaujolais. Put shit wine in… you’ll get a shit
flavour out.
If there isn’t enough wine in one bottle to just cover
what’s in the pan make up the rest with chicken
stock. If you can’t be bothered to make chicken
stock try and get the fresh wet stocks that most su-
permarkets carry. Don’t use a stock cube, every-
Recipe
thing will get too salty and kill the flavour of the
chicken. Better to use water than a stock cube.
Bring to a gentle boil, cover and reduce to a
simmer.
Fry your mushrooms in a little butter in a separate
pan until golden brown. At the last minute deglaze
the pan with a slosh of brandy, flambéing it to get all
the extra flavour into the mushrooms. Always make
sure someone is around to see you do this…it looks
impressive and everyone will think you must be a
serious chef even if it does cost you an eyebrow
from time to time.
Set to one side. You are looking at about 1 hour for
the dish to be cooked. The chicken should be soft
but not falling off the bone.
Once you are happy that it’s cooked take the
chicken pieces out and add the fried mushrooms
while kicking up the heat to reduce the sauce. Make
a beurre manié by taking some butter and forming a
paste with the flour.
It should look like a white gobstopper. The more
flour you use the more the sauce will thicken. Better
to add crumbs of the beurre manié gradually
because you can’t take it away once it’s in the pan.
Drop the beurre manié into the sauce and stir on
the boil until the sauce looks thick and glistening.
Taste and adjust the seasoning if it needs a little
pepper or salt. Return the chicken to the pan and
serve.
 c t i v e
r o s p e
Ret Barrie‘Whizzo’Williams
Barrie 'Whizzo' Williams for over 50 years has
been thrilling motor racing crowds with his
outstanding talent. He will be appearing at Race
Retro, in March, Europe's premier show for
historic motorsport, historic racing and
historic rallying where he will be talking about
his extensive knowledge of the sport.

Interview by Andrea Seed

What’s the fastest speed you’ve been in
a car and where was it?
Over 200mph at Bruntingthorpe on a test
day in a Jaguar XJ220 - not on the M40
like most!
Have you ever injured yourself while
driving?
I've had a broken ankle and cracked a
couple of ribs when racing at Snetterton in
1972 when I got punted off the track and I
twisted my thumb a couple of years ago at
Goodwood.
What’s your favourite racing track?
Difficult to pick one but I love Spa /
Nürburgring, and Silverstone Grand Prix
circuit - they have all got different
characters to them that test the drivers.
Who was your fiercest racing
competitor?
Every single one that was in front of me!
Which car did you enjoy driving the
most?
I've driven so many it is hard to pick, from
the Mini to lightweight Jaguar, they are all
great pieces of engineering.
Which career would you have most
likely have followed if you weren’t doing
what you are today?
There was no other career as far as I was
concerned!
What was your first job?
I was an apprentice engineer and then I
became a lorry driver.
Who or what has been the biggest
influence on your life?
My father Frank (commonly known as
Tony) who was a motorcycle racer before
the war and all fatherly figures from then
on.
What is your proudest achievement?
I didn't get her name!
What is your all time favourite song?
She Loves Me - The Beatles.
Where did you have your most
memorable meal?
Any family Sunday roast is memorable
for me.
Do you collect anything?
I've got loads of automobilia such as model
cars, badges, books, etc.
Do you have a 20th century hero or in time with you.
idol? Have you ever ‘splashed’ the cash on
Sir Stirling Moss is an amazing man. something big?
What is your favourite film of all time? No, never had enough cash to splash. I
Any war film where the good guys win. only managed to cause a ripple.
Who is your all time favourite actor? Is there one thing you want to do before
Hard to pick one but I loved Steve you depart the stage?!
McQueen and John Wayne. I'd still like to win Le Mans - would be nice
What is your all time favourite TV show? before I go!
I'm a soap addict - Emmerdale, Corrie,
Eastenders, can't miss them!
Can you remember your first boy/
girlfriend’s name and are you still in The biography of his
contact? life ‘Whizzo - The
My first official girlfriend was Hazel Priest Motor Racing Life Of
but I haven't seen her for years. Barrie Williams’ by
If you could live in any decade, which Paul Lawrence is
one, and why? available from TFM
The pre-war era would have been amazing publishing
to live in, especially if you had a modern
racing car that you could have taken back
 Contact us
editor@theretrocollective.com
www.theretrocollective.com