Beruflich Dokumente
Kultur Dokumente
Meaty
Tales of
Vegetarian
India
Indians are eating more meat and
enjoying it. Higher incomes, global food
chains and a vast population of young
people indifferent to religious taboos are
shattering myths about "vegetarian
India", finds LATHA JISHNU . But
this appetite for meat has
environmental and political
fallouts
ANALYSIS
how
Vishal
Jain
describes himself and his
younger brother Ankit.
Non-veg, shorthand for
non-vegetarian, is Indias
quaint
contribution
to the sociology and
culture of food, a hold-all term that signifies
we are consumers of meat of some kind
chicken, beef, mutton or pork. Or fish. Or
eggs. Perhaps, all of these. To declare that
one is non-veg, or eats non-vegthe term is
interchangeableis a necessary distinction
in a land fabled for its vegetarianism
and made legendary by its most famous
practitioner, Mahatma Gandhi.
Vishal Jains declaration underlines
the shrinking nature and number of those
who abide by a meat-free diet. For the
brothers belong to one of the few religious
communities who are rigidly vegetarian.
The Jains eschew even vegetables that
grow underground for fear of killing any
creatures when these are pulled out. Vishal,
28, a software techie in Hyderabad, says he
took to eating meat with the advent of the
chicken burger, courtesy an American fast
food chain. I worked late hours and this
was a convenience food. But also tastylike
nothing I had eaten before. Besides, the meat
itself was not so much in your face.
From chicken in a bun, he went on
to other non-veg fare that Hyderabad is
traditionally famous for, such as haleem, the
citys signature dish which is a thick broth
of wheat, lentils and mutton/beef cooked
specially for festivals. And he introduced
Ankit to its epicurean delights.The brothers,
however, are careful to keep this hidden from
their parents who are strict in their religious
observances. One reason the two broke
religious taboos is the environment.
At the workplace, colleagues, although
not exactly cosmopolitan were open to
change and experimenting, while the urban
ambience and culture made this easier,
explains Vishal. Hyderabad is a meat-loving
city, with both the Muslim and Andhra
cuisine celebrating it in diverse dishes.
Recently, its municipal commissioner
Somesh Kumar was reeling off statistics
to impress a conference of mayors about
3.2 kg
38.7 kg
125 kg
www.downtoearth.org.in 37
ANALYSIS
shops selling cold cuts abound. For those who can afford
it, meat is readily available now and in a smorgasbord of
optionsuncooked, ready to cook, frozen, from street
food vendors and takeaways to a host of restaurant
options. These range from Michelin-starred facilities
offering steak tartare to the run-of-the-mill korma joints.
Only one class in India is eating meat, declares
nutritionist Veena Shatrugna, and thats the well-to-do.
I would say our per capita meat consumption is pathetic.
Her contention is that the vast majority of Indians,
around 80 per cent, is non-vegetarian and should be
eating much more meat to meet their required dietary
intake of calories and proteins to fight malnutrition.
Instead the government has been pushing a brahmanical
concept of dietary requirements over the past 70 years
(see Forced vegetarianism on p43).
Without our knowledge we have been practising
an upper caste nutritional science, says Shatrugna
who was deputy director of the National Institute of
Nutrition, the Hyderabad-based research organisation
of the Indian Council of Medical Research. Without
batting an eyelid the government accepted the rda
(recommended dietary allowance) which assumes the
whole country is vegetarian. Indians should be eating
much more meat for nutritional reasons.
Consumption figures bear her out. According to a
global meat consumption chart compiled by fao (Food
and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations) in
2007, India logged in last in a total of 177 countries. Its
annual consumption of meat per person was just 3.2 kg at
a time when Americans were eating as much
125 kg per head and the world average was
In India, meat- as
38. 7 kg. Now, Indias per capita consumption
eating is looked is 5.5 kgalthough some estimates place it
down upon by the loweragainst the world average of 43.1 kg.
upper castes and American per capita consumption of chicken
a 1993 ASI survey alone is 50.1kg.
The question of vegetarian numbers
found that nearly
opens
up a huge and vexed debatea debate
five per cent of
fraught
with caste and religious prejudices.
all scheduled
The
question
is whether more Indians are
castes had turned
eating meat now because they can afford it
vegetarian to avoid
if the number of vegetarians is declining
the discrimination or
at a rapid rate. What is the actual number
and contempt of vegetarians in the country? The most
authoritative study is the People of India survey,
a mammoth enterprise of the Anthropological Survey
of India (asi) completed in 1993. The eight-year study
was steered by its director-general Kumar Suresh Singh
and covered every rite, custom and habit of every single
community in the country.
At the end of it, the army of asi researchers found
that of the 4,635 communities, nearly 88 per cent were
38 DOWN TO EARTH
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"
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Forced Vegetarianism
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44 DOWN TO EARTH