Kraków: December 2011 - January 2012

Hotels Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps
KRAKW
December 2011 - January 2012
Cracovian
Christmas
A guide to the seasons
traditions and tinsel
Holiday
Shopping Guide
N73
Poland - 5z (w tym 8% VAT)
UK - 5
EU (excl. Poland & UK) - 3
krakow.inyourpocket.com
ISSN 1508-2334
What and where to buy

gifts in Krakw
CONTENTS
Contents
Arrival & Transport
Tram Map
14
18
The Basics
20
Culture & Events
23
Where to Stay
32
Restaurants
50
Cafs
88
Nightlife
Bars & Pubs
Clubs
Kazimierz Nightlife
91
98
102
Krakw cant help but dazzle when its decked out for the
holidays, with ornaments, garlands and lights strung all
over from the market square to Wawel, and the air thick and
sweet with the sound of caroling and the smell of spiced
wine. In this issue weve covered all the angles and angels
of Krakws Christmas customs, from what to do on Saint
Nicholas Day and what to eat on Wigila (page 8) to how
to see Krakws famous Christmas cribs (page 29) and
live nativity plays (page 49). Enjoy the season, and Happy
New Year from all of us here at IYP. Photo: Artim Sp. z o. o.
archive
History
104
Sightseeing
106
107
118
120
124
126
128
Old Town
Wawel
Kazimierz
Podgrze
Oskar Schindler
Nowa Huta
Further Afield
Salt Mines
Auschwitz
Pope John Paul II
Tarnw
132
133
136
138
Leisure
142
Shopping
146
Directory
152
Maps & Index

The holidays are here, and with them the onus to go
shopping for the folks back home is all the more obligatory.
With the Cloth Hall and additional Christmas market doing
roaring trade on the market square, you shouldnt have
any trouble, but there are better places to find uniquely
Polish or Cracovian gifts than these tourist stalls. On page
10 weve streamlined the best ideas from our Shopping
section (page 146) to help you find incomparable stocking
stuffers for everyone on your list.
Krakw In Your Pocket
City Centre Map

City Map
Nowa Huta Map
Regional Map
Street Register
Listings Index
Features Index
155
156
158
159
160
161
162
FOREWORD
As Krakw decks the halls for the feast of lights and
fireworks display that will bid do widzenia to 2011, the city
can look back at the year that was with satisfaction and
the year ahead with confidence. 2011 saw Krakw solidify
its standing as not only one of the most liveable cities in
Europe, but also one of the top tourist cities in Europe.
Adding to the UNESCO-listed sights of Krakws Old Town
and Kazimierz districts, plus the famous Wieliczka Salt Mine
nearby, the city has seen the development of Podgrze into
a viable third tourist district, largely thanks to the openings
of the Schindlers Factory Museum, the Museum of
Contemporary Art, and a new pedestrian bridge connecting
the neighbourhood to Kazimierz. The Cloth Hall in the centre
of the market square has never looked better with the
completion of a long renovation, including the openings of
the 19th Century Polish Art Gallery inside and the Rynek
Underground museum beneath it, plus the festive holiday
market alongside. As the European financial crisis continues
to be a major concern across the continent, Poland again
demonstrated economic stability and even growth in 2011.
Public works continue to hum along and conclude with
acclaim, and UEFAs heavily criticised choice of Poland and
Ukraine as the host countries of Euro 2012 now looks
positively brilliant, at least from Polands end. Although
Krakw will not be hosting matches in the European football
championships, it has become the city of choice for some
of the tournaments top teams, including England, Italy
and the Netherlands - all three of whom will use Krakw as
their home base, enjoying renovated facilities and five-star
accommodation. With the modernisation of the citys main
train station due to be completed by the spring, Krakw will
be at the peak of its powers in 2012, in what looks set to be
another very good year for Poland.
Truly, there are few better times to develop a crush on
Krakw than the holiday season, and weve neatly giftwrapped everything you need to know inside this guide,
from the best local goodies to buy for the folks back home
(page 12) to what to do on New Years Eve (pages 31 and
62), so bundle up, get yourself a mug of hot wine and go
enjoy it. And dont forget to give us some feedback via
editor_poland@inyourpocket.com.
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Editorial
Copyright notice
Editor Garrett Van Reed

Research Manager Anna Hojan
Researchers Dorota Konkel, Aneta Roszak,
Maria Rulaff
Events Klaudia Mampe, ukasz Jankowski,
Vaughan Elliott
Design Tom Haman
Photography In Your Pocket, Rentapocket
Cover photo: Artim Sp. z o. o. archive
Text and photos copyright WIYP Sp. z o. o.

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A CRACOVIAN CHRISTMAS
around town youd hardly guess the holidays were a time of
self-restraint and supposed prohibition. But it does go to
underline the fact that in comparison to the west, Poland
really puts the Christ in Christmas; traditionally speaking,
capturing the holiday spirit denotes an embodiment of
Christian ideals.
December 1st also marks the 69th Annual Krakw
Christmas Crib Competition, starting at 09:00 around the
Adam Mickiewicz monument on the market square. One of
Krakws most idiosyncratic folk traditions, turn to our Culture
& Events section for an in-depth explanation, and make sure
to stop by the History Museum before February 26th if you
miss the December 1st spectacle.
Dzie witego Mikoaja
Few places in Europe seem more suited for the holiday

season than Krakw, a city which when donning a dusting
of fresh snow and viewed through its own cheerful prism
of holiday magic, quite convincingly transforms itself into
an intricate village of gingerbread houses with candy-cane
columns, gumdrop-topped gables and chimneys puffing
cotton candy clouds over vanilla-iced rooftops. Give this
snow-globe a shake and suddenly the sound of tourist
trolleys zipping around blasting pop hits has been overcome
by whats that on the horse carriages sleigh-bells jingling?
The smells of coal-smoke and pigeon dander have been
replaced by caramelised sugar and hot spiced wine. The
obwarzanek (Cracovian bagel) vendors are peddling toys
and tinselly trinkets. The flower market is filled with wreaths
and evergreens. Where that obnoxious guy used to shred
guitar solos, costumed children are carolling. Where that
gold-painted hobo used to stand motionless on a box all day
for small change why, its Saint Nicholas himself (doing the
very same thing)!
Indeed all the holiday stops have been pulled out across
this festive city, so put your holiday sweater on and step
out into the spirit. Wesoych wiat i Szczliwego Nowego
Roku! (Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year!) (Ve-so-wick
shvi-ont i shchen-shli-vego No-wego Ro-koo)
Advent
In contrast to western coca-cola cultures, Christmas in Poland
isnt as much of a shameless celebration of consumerism.
Here, the holiday season doesnt kick off with slashed
prices and stampedes outside department stores, but
rather a sobering 24-day period called Adwent (beginning
December 1st) during which Poles are expected to spiritually
prepare for Christs coming by refraining from indulgences
like partying, dancing and drinking; are encouraged to help
the less fortunate, and, of course, to attend mass as much
as possible. How strictly these church-established guidelines
are followed is entirely up to the individual, and having a look
With Christmas Day reserved for family and busy with the
celebration of Christ, seasonal gift-giving chores have been
mostly outsourced to Saint Nicholas (wity Mikoaj) who
unofficially gets the holiday season started when he comes
three weeks earlier on December 6th Dzie witego
Mikoaja, or Saint Nicholas Day. In Polish tradition, Ol Saint
Nick (or Mick as the case may be) isnt a portly pipe-smoker
who lives at the North Pole, but an actual dignified saint who
comes down from heaven in a rather regal purple and gold
robe and bishops hat, carrying a crosier (you know, one of
those staffs shaped like a candy-cane) on the anniversary
of his death. In the run-up to Dzie witego Mikoaja, eager
children write letters to the Saint requesting the one, maybe
two (if theyve been really good) gifts they most desire that
year and put the letter outside on the windowsill so the old
codger can drop by and pick up their request during the
night. On the 6th, Polish children awake to discover Mikoajs
good graces with a gift under their pillow or next to the bed.
Wigilia
December 24th or Wigilia as its called in PL - is one of
the biggest feast days of the year and an important time to
be with family. As such, though Wigilia is not a work holiday
you can expect virtually every shop in Krakw to close early
and stay closed until the 27th, so arrange accordingly. On
the afternoon of the Eve on Krakws main square, free food
is given out to the poor and the length and composition of
the resultant queues is a bit of a holiday spectacle in itself.
In the evening its tradition that those gathered to eat the
vigil feast together first share the blessed Christmas wafer,
called opatek. In an intimate (and potentially awkward if you
dont speak Polish) moment, each person goes to the others
in turn, making a blessing for their happiness in the coming
year, breaking off a piece of the other persons wafer and
eating it, then sealing the deal with a kiss on the cheek. Once
that formality is out of the way and the kids have spotted the
first star in the sky, the feast can officially begin. Traditionally,
bits of hay are spread beneath the tablecloth in honour of
Jesus manger pedigree, and an extra place is set at the
table in case of a visit by the hungry traveller, Baby Jesus
himself or a deceased relative (whoever arrives first). Dinner
consists of a gut-busting twelve courses one for each of
Jesus disciples and because its meant to be meatless,
the main dish is traditionally carp, which apparently isnt
recognised as meat by Catholics (fish was Jesus favourite
vegetable). In the days before Wigilia, large pools of carp
half writhing, half floating belly-up can be found on the
citys squares waiting to be purchased and brought home
to the family bathtub where they are kept until its time for
the man of the house to carve the carp and serve it cold.
Smacznego. (Bon Appetite) (smach-Ney-go) Other traditional
dishes include urek and barszcz the traditional soups,
10
A CRACOVIAN CHRISTMAS
The Christmas Market
you a cursory list of some local New Years offers, but your
celebratory options are literally limitless; make sure you
do the work of finding something that will suit you and your
friends. Though Krakw wont be hosting a massive concert
on the market square this year, there will of course be a huge
fireworks display at midnight, so dont miss it.
Three Kings Day
photo: Artim Sp. z o. o. archive

Krakws annual Christmas market opened this year
on November 25th, with half of the main square given
over to one of the best holiday markets in Europe with
scores of rustic, wooden stalls selling folk art and
Christmas ornaments, candies and sweets, knitwear,
toys, souvenirs, jewellery, pottery, partridges, pear trees
and more. Food vendors will also be dishing up hot food,
over which families share picnic tables and keep warm
with the hot mulled wine (called grzaniec) dispensed
from enormous barrels nearby. Somewhere close at hand
Saint Nick will be posing with the little ones illuminated
by an enormous evergreen as carolling fills the air and
random acts of holiday spirit take place on a cultural
stage nearby. The stands and atmosphere will remain
intact until December 26th when most will close, though
the market doesnt officially close until the Sunday after
the Three Kings Day parade (January 8th).
The spirit of the holiday season is kept strong across the

country until January 6th Three Kings Day or Dzie Trzech
Krli. In Krakw, starting at noon, a parade welcoming the
three kings/wise men will take place on the market square,
including the compulsory singing of carols. Likewise, mass
is also compulsory, and with the Parliament making Three
Kings an official work holiday again this year for the first
time since the communists canned it fifty years ago, theres
no longer any excuse for missing church. Another tradition
associated with Three Kings is writing the initials of their
names Kaspar, Melchior and Balthazar in chalk on the
front door or above the threshold of the house. In Krakw
this honour is reserved for a priest who visits during the
holiday season, blessing the house for the coming year by
inscribing the commonly seen K + M + B 2012 (for a small
donation of course).
The Polish holiday season doesnt actually officially wrap
up until February 2nd when Saint Nick sees his shadow and
its agreed that every family should toss its Christmas tree.
For more information about specific holiday happenings
around this merry miasto, head to our Events section (page
23) where we give you even more on New Years Eve, the
Christmas Crib Competition and the Great Orchestra
of Christmas Charity; tis the season of giving, they say
PRICE INCLUDES
Delicious Surf&Turf buffet dinner
Starters, sh and seafood,
meats and appetizers
Live cooking stations
Desserts
Wine, beer, coffee, tea, water
All surrounded by New Years Eve
decorations and the DJs music.
poppy-seed pastries, stuffed cabbage rolls (gobki), herring

in oil, pickles and an assortment of other Polish salads and
sides. The meal concludes with a round of belt-unbuckling,
carol-singing and gift-unwrapping after the revelation that
during the feast an angel has laid presents beneath the
Christmas tree (Mikoaj also gets an off-day for Wigilia).
Alcoholic abstinence is the Wigila tradition most commonly
overlooked, however, at midnight, most families head out in
the cold to attend pasterka, or midnight mass.
Christmas Day
After morning mass, December 25th is reserved for
visiting family and friends. On Christmas Day in Krakw the
Franciscan Church at Plac Wszystich witych 5 (C-4) hosts
an annual live nativity scene in the field behind the church
featuring lots of singing children, a raging bonfire and live
animals. [Though according to legend animals acquire the
ability to speak during Wigilia, as far as weve observed
its back to barnyard banter with this lot the following day.]
Free food and drink is also served within one of the church
buildings, and this is just about the only thing to do in town
as everything else is closed for the next two days.
Sylwester
December 31st is known locally as Sylwester, and on this
last night of the year every bar, club, restaurant and hotel
in town will be hosting an all night New Years Eve bash.
Unfortunately, you have to pay to play and its wise to plan
where you want to spend your evening since expensive
tickets are required to enter most venues, and therefore
pub crawling is not really an option. On page 31 weve given
Book Now:
sylwester.krakow@radissonblu.com
Cracovian Christmas Cribs (Szopki Krakowska) around the
Mickiewicz monument on the market square. For more,
turn to page 29. Photo: Robert Korzeniowski, courtesy of
Krakw History Museum
+48 12 618 88 88
Radisson Blu Hotel

Straszewskiego 17
31-101 Krakw
FOR OUR GUESTS

WITH KIDS...
New Years Eve Ball for kids

A professional animators care
Fun and Games
New Years Eve Buffet for kids
Beds for tired children
12
HOLIDAY SHOPPING GUIDE

Sister
The appeal of amber will hold true for any woman on your list,
but for sister you should also consider the hip hand-crafted
jewellery and accessories of Maruna (ul. Miodowa 2, D-6), or
the natural, monk-made lotions and cosmetics of Produkty
Benedyktyskie (Rynek Gwny 6, C-3).
Brother
For home boy hit Idea Fix (ul. Jzefa 20, D-5)and peruse
their collection of locally designed hoodies, t-shirts and
other urban gear. If your brothers more of an intellectual,
search for a unique 3-player chess set, or fine-crafted
wooden traditional chessboard in the stalls of the Cloth
Hall (Rynek Gwny 1/3, C-3). If the young mans an artist,
pick out an avant-garde Polish film or theatre poster from the
vast collection at Galeria Plakatu (ul. Stolarska 8-10, C-3).
Children
Childhood hasnt been a historically successful concept in
Poland, which might explain why what few toys there are
for sale in PL are so outrageously expensive. If the kids
are infants, head straight to Bajo (ul. Grodzka 60, C-5) for
some stylishly wholesome and locally-made wooden toys,
or Galeria Bukowski (ul. Sienna 1, C-3) for a Cracovian
teddy bear. Some cute sweets from Ciu Ciu (ul. Gobia 3,
B-3) are also a good option, or there are plenty or wooden
swords and shields for sale in the stalls of the Cloth Hall
(Rynek Gwny 1/3, C-3).
Its only natural to want to bring a bit of Poland back home
with you, and being as its the holiday season, stuffing your
luggage with gifts is all the more obligatory. Below weve tried
to identify some uniquely Polish (and/or Cracovian) gift ideas
for everyone on your list. Check out our Shopping section
for more ideas and information, including opening hours.
Girlfriend/Wife
Two words: jewellery and chocolate. For the first choose a
beautiful pair of amber earrings from World of Amber (ul.
Grodzka 25, C-4), and for the second head to Karmello (Pl.
Wszystkich witych 11, C-4) for some local sweets that are
both artistic and delicious.
Grandparents
The land of babcias has plenty that will please the old folks
back home, including linen and lacework from the Cloth
Hall (Rynek Gwny 1/3, C-3), Bolesawiec folk ceramic from
Dekor Art (ul. Sawkowska 11, C-2), local jarred foodstuffs
from Krakowski Kredens (ul. Grodzka 7, C-3) or Produkty
Benedyktyski (Rynek Gwny 6, C-3), a Krakw photo
album from House of Albums (ul. Zwierzyniecka 17, A-4), or
a special Cracovian Christmas decoration from Calik (Rynek
Gwny 7/5, C-3).
Boyfriend/Husband
If you really want to spoil your man, head to Wittchen (Galeria
Krakowska, D-1) and outfit him in a luxury leather jacket,
or perhaps something more practical and affordable like a
hand-made wallet. If he has a taste for tipples, turn him on to
Polish vodka brands like ubrwka or Goldwasser, or head
to Szambelan (ul. Gobia 2, C-3) where you can decant one
of their exclusive meads, absinthes or flavoured vodkas into
an exotic gift bottle a perfect gift.
Mother
Amber always wins with women, so stop at World of
Amber (ul. Grodzka 25, C-4) to pick out a pendant mom
will be proud to wear. Or how about a stylish local leather
handbag from Son Torbalski (ul. Sawkowska 4, C-2)? All
moms love Bolesawiec folk pottery (head to Dekor Art: ul.
Sawkowska 11, C-2), or pick her out some stylish home
decor at Folkhome (ul. Wgowa 4, D-7).
Father
As a man matures he needs a good hat, no? The Kapelusze
Czapki hatmakers workshop at ul. Krakowska 35a (D-7)
has a surprisingly stylish assortment of hand-made hats that
would look great on Dad. Or try Antykwariat Rara Avis (ul.
Szpitalna 7/4, C-3) for something old, odd and aesthetic that
might be more Dads style. If that fails, try what the Poles do
when things arent working out: vodka.
14
ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT

By Bus
International buses arrive and depart from the bus terminal
(Dworzec Autobusowy) behind the train station at ul. Bosacka
(E-1). Here youll find an exchange bureau (kantor), as well as
an ATM (bankomat) and information point (open 09:00-17:00).
Payphones can be found in the main building, and you can buy
phone cards or SIM cards for your mobile from the newsagents.
Lockers for left luggage cost 6-12z (depending on size) for 24
hours, however are unavailable when the main hall is closed
between 23:00 and 05:00 for renovation work. During this time
there is a waiting room situated in the nearby tunnel. Tunnels
connect the bus and train stations. Still the best way to get
into town, with or without getting lost, is to make a right from
the bus station into the train station, walk past the platforms
and follow the ascendant ramp back into daylight. Cut through
the main ticket hall of the train station, cross the square in
front of Galeria Krakowska and take the underpass into the
Planty. Congrats, youre in the Old Town.
Bus is your best option for travel to Zakopane and the Tatra
Mountains, with frequent departures for the two hour journey.
These are proper coaches and leave from the upper level with
tickets available from the ticket office inside the bus station.
For exact travel times check www.rda.krakow.pl which is now
in English. For buses to Wieliczka and Auschwitz (Owicim)
you are likely to travel by mini-bus. These leave from the lower
level and are generally run by independent small businesses.
Tickets for these crowded trips are available directly from the
driver. First come/most aggressive in the queue, first served.
Jordan D-2, ul. Pawia 8, tel. (+48) 12 422 60 91, www.

jordan.pl. English-speaking tour company with buses available for
hire which also acts as a vendor for other companys scheduled bus
services. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Krakw Bus Station (Dworzec autobusowy) E-1,
ul. Bosacka 18, tel. (+48) 703 40 33 40, www.rda.
krakow.pl. Q Ticket Office open 06:00 - 21:00.
By Plane
Some 17km west of the city centre, John Paul II Krakw Balice
Airport (Port lotniczy w Krakowie Balicach imienia Jana Pawa
II) is small, modern and easy to navigate, though amenities
are limited. Here youll find a 24hr currency exchange and a
clutch of ATMs (bankomat), as well as a helpful tourist information point and 24hr left luggage office (9z).
The best way to get to and from the airport is by train. From the
airport, a free bus directly outside both the international and
domestic terminals takes passengers the short distance to
the train-stop and can also be used for travelling between the
two terminals. Train tickets are purchased from the conductor
on board the train, and cost 10z. If leaving from Krakw Gowny
train station, departures (odjazdy) to Balice Airport are every
30 minutes from Track 1; buy your ticket from machines on
the platform or on board for no extra fee. Trains back from the
airport run frequently between 05:00 and 23:00. After that there
youre left with night bus 902 which departs at 23:26, 00:56
and 02:26; and then youre down to taxis.
Taxis stand outside the main entrance to the airport and should
charge between 55-75z to make the journey into the city centre.
Note that the price goes up by 50% between 22:00 and 06:00.
City Tourist Information ul. Kpt. M. Medweckiego 1

(Balice Airport), tel. (+48) 12 285 53 41, www.infokrakow.pl. The official city tourist office. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00.
John Paul II Krakow Balice International Airport

(Port Lotniczy Krakw Balice im. Jana Pawa II)
ul. Kpt. M. Medweckiego 1, tel. (+48) 12 295 58 00,
www.krakowairport.pl.
ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT
Krakow Shuttle K-4, ul. Zabocie 25/5, tel. (+48) 510

56 00 00, www.krakowshuttle.com. Good value Krakw
and Katowice airport transfers, as well as tours of hard to
reach sights in and outside the city (Wieliczka, Auschwitz).
QOpen 08:30 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 08:30 - 16:00.
By Car
Poland is one of Europes leading nations in road fatalities,
a statistic that will surprise few who have had the pleasure
of using the roads here. A lethal combination of poor road
surfaces, networks unsuited to the volume of different traffic
and, most of all, frustrated and aggressive driver behaviour
result in the common sight of mangled wrecks around the
country. While the road quality issue is being addressed with
EU directives and funding, the size of the countrys road network means that it will still be years before results are seen
in many places. Almost all roads outside of urban areas are
a single lane in each direction, meaning traffic is inevitably
bogged down by the fleet of lorries that traverse Poland as
well as the routine family in a horse-cart. This results in
impatient drivers overtaking each other at high speed and
then braking sharply to avoid oncoming traffic. Be cautious
and keep a safe distance between you and the vehicle in front.
The speed limit in Poland is generally 50km/hr in cities (60km/
hr between 23:00 and 05:00), 90km/hr outside urban areas,
120km/hr on dual carriageways and 140km/hr on motorways.
All cars must have their headlights switched on at all times and
carry a red warning triangle, first aid kit, replacement bulbs, a
national identity sticker and proper registration and insurance
documents. Poland also has strict drunk-driving laws: 0.2 is
the maximum blood/alcohol limit, so forget about having even
a single beer. EU citizens may use their home driving licenses as
long as they are valid, however citizens of countries that didnt
ratify the Vienna Convention (tsk, tsk Australia and America) will
find their licenses invalid (though that hasnt stopped anyone we
know from driving their girlfriends car). Carry your license and
passport at all times when driving.
With that out of the way, how to get here? For the time being
theres only one major highway leading into Krakow via Katowice, the A4, and its smooth asphalt doesnt come free. An 8z
toll is paid when you enter and again when you exit the motorway. Still, its one of the best stretches of road in the country
until the bottleneck begins outside Krakw near Wieliczka.
Driving around the city is incredibly frustrating with constant
roadwork being done, one-way streets and seemingly available streets requiring a permit to drive down: violate this rule
and the chances of getting a fine are incredibly high, whether
youve realized your infraction or not. Krakws road network
is not at all adequate for the volume of cars on its roads and
parking is yet another challenge. To say nothing of horse-drawn
carriages full of tourists and trams, the lack of bicycle paths
in the city centre also means sharing the street with unwieldy
bicycles above the laws of the road, and the fact that theyre
getting from point A to B twice as fast as you is yet another
smack in the face. Put it all together and we recommend you
ditch your vehicle in favour of public transportation at the first
opportunity. Car crime is not unheard of and youll be safest
leaving your ride in one of the guarded parking lots listed below.
Street parking is available under the large parking signs on the
sidewalk and youll have to buy a pass from the neon-bibbed
warden patrolling the area, though parking machines have now
replaced them in many areas. The cost of street parking is
3z for the first hour, 3.50z for the second, 4.10 for the third,
and after that back to 3z. Areas where parking is available are
also marked on the map in the back of this guide.
Guarded Parking J-1, ul. Kamienna 2-4 (entrance from
Al. Sowackiego), tel. (+48) 12 633 69 81.
Guarded Parking A-5, ul. Powile 1 (Sheraton Krakw
Hotel), tel. (+48) 12 662 10 00.
By Train
Krakws main railway station, Dworzec Gwny, is conveniently situated at the northern edge of the Old Town,
making taxis and trams largely unnecessary for those with
accommodation in the Old Town. Not so convenient is the
mess that will greet visitors upon arrival this winter, as the
train station is undergoing major renovation works as
part of a plan to turn it into a modern transportation hub
that should be fully functional sometime in mid-2012. Upon
disembarking your train, youll be herded underground into
a narrow tunnel (where works are taking place), which slyly
leads straight into the neighbouring Galeria Krakowska shopping mall; head up the stairs to avoid getting lost in the mall.
With no facilities currently available in the tunnel, head down
the ramp alongside the tracks to the main hall where youll
find an ATM (bankomat), currency exchange booth (kantor),
and left luggage lockers. A large locker is 12z for one day,
and a small one 6z; make sure you have change.
Stepping out onto the square in front of the train stations
main hall youll see Galeria Krakowska to your right, a bus
and tram stop on the left side of the square and straight
across youll find a taxi rank. It is only about a six minute walk
to Rynek Gwny (the market square) from the train station,
arguably the dreamiest entrance into any city in Europe and
highly recommended for anyone who has just arrived. Crossing the plaza in front of the train station to the Andels Hotel
and following the crowds through the underpass to the other
side puts you officially in the Old Town, home to the majority
of Krakws hostels, hotels and nightlife; bear right, make a
left on Floriaska Street and youre on the path of kings to
the market square. Youve arrived.
Now how to escape: Station departure boards (odjazdy) are
indicated by their yellow timetables; arrivals boards (przyjazdy) are the white ones. Trains run from Krakw Gwny to
most major Polish cities, with almost hourly trains to Warsaw
between 06:00 and 20:00. To check the times visit the Polish
railways website at rozklad.pkp.pl which has limited but effective English language functionality. Tickets for internal trips
can be purchased at any counter in the main station hall, and
can even be bought in advance. Indeed, if you want a seat on
a particular train it is best to book ahead. International tickets
are bought at Kasa Zagraniczna windows 9 and 10. If in a
rush, tickets can also be bought on board the train from the
conductor, but expect a surcharge. Note that tickets for the
shuttle service to Krakw Balice airport, which runs every
30 minutes, can be purchased from machines on platform
1, or on-board the train for no extra fee.
The state-owned Polish rail network PKP run several types of
train. Express InterCity (EIC) trains are the fastest, newest and
most expensive of the lot, with first and second class compartments holding up to six people and seat reservations required.
The Express (EX) trains are less modern than the EIC but still
pricey, and also requires seat reservations. The EuroCity (EC)
trains offer international connections and seat reservations
as well. Cheapskates looking to cut costs should opt for the
markedly cheaper Twoje Linie Kolejowe (TLK), which have
second class seats that require no seat reservation and first
class seats that do; InterREGIO (IR), which are the cheapest
and have second class seats that require reservation; and
REGIOekspres (RE), which have online seat reservations. With
these budget options you will pay almost nothing, but the journey will take longer and is guaranteed to try your good humour.
Travellers on overnight trains no longer have the concerns of
yesteryear but should still mind their belongings. Also note that
delays are more common at the moment due the nationwide
rail modernisation program underway.
Krakw Train Station

Main Train Station
(D w o r z e c G w ny)
E-1, Pl. Jana Nowaka Jezioraskiego 3, tel.
(+4 8) 42 20 5 5 0 07,
w w w. r o z k l a d . p k p . p l .
The work of architect Peter
Rosenbaum - who would
www.pkp.pl
go on to design Wrocaws
station ten years later - the
main hall was built between 1844 and 1846, with neorenaissance decorations like turrets and crenulations
whimsically added to the exterior. Over the following
decades it would be extensively re-modelled, with bits
and pieces knocked down and added at the drop of a
hat. A bridge over ul. Lubicz designed by Teodor Talowski
was built in 1898, and a spate of tunnels and platforms
were added in the immediate years before and after. In
spite of extensive modernisation in the 1920s - which
included the creation of a water tower, printing house
and residential estate for railway workers - plans were
drawn up in 1934 to relocate the train station - albeit
by only 300 metres.
Under Nazi occupation the future of the station again fell
under threat, with plans to build a new one in the government quarter located across the river in Dbniki. Even
after the Nazis were vanquished the train station could
not breathe easy; in keeping with the decentralisation
policy of communist planning, sketches were drawn up
to build a primary station next to Rondo Mogilska, an
area that the authorities wanted to develop in a bid to
outshine the decadent Old Town. Fortunately cash is
king and the commies had run out of it; the only sign
of their grandiose plan today is the half finished NOT
building, lovingly referred to by locals as Skeletor. The
years since the Soviet-era ended have hardly granted
Krakws train station any peace either, however the
changes have largely been met positively as the area
received a thorough clean-up after years of neglect, and
a new plaza next to the Galeria Krakowska shopping
mall now represent Krakows main gateway into the city.
Presently the Polish rail network is undergoing some
much needed investment nationwide, and while track
improvements are ongoing (and delay inducing), there
is now a massive station modernisation program underway which will see 40 stations either modernised
or entirely rebuilt at a cost of 980 million zoty over 5
years. Krakw Gwny is one of three projects receiving
financing from the EU and the 63 million PLN investment
will see a brand new transport hub created. Incorporating an underground station in the general area of the
current platforms the new station will connect trains,
buses, airport shuttles and local tram services under
one roof. A new 12,000m2 ticket hall will be created as
well as new waiting areas, a cafe, restaurants and passenger service points such as tourist information. Fully
accessible to the disabled and with a hi-tech monitoring
system, the project is pencilled in for completion in the
second quarter of 2012. Lovers of the old train station,
however, need not fret. The local government is in talks to
take over the classic Rosenbaum building from the train
company and convert it into a gallery. Q Open 24hrs.
Note that due to system maintenance seat reservations
cannot be made from 00:00 to 01:30.
15
16
ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT

Car Rental
ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT

Europcar J- 4, ul.
All you need to rent a car in PL is a credit card and a valid

foreign license or international driving permit. [Be aware,
however, that citizens from countries that didnt ratify the
Vienna Convention (America, Australia) cannot legally drive
on their licenses and run the risk of hassle from the police.]
Enjoy cruising the EU, but dont try leaving it in a rental car;
ie Ukraine is off-limits (sad face).
Acecar C-3, ul. Bracka 8/1a, tel. (+48) 508 13 36

51, www.acecar.pl. Large selection of cars. Competitive
Avis J-2, ul. Lubicz 23, tel.
(+48) 601 20 07 02, www.
avis.pl. Internationally trusted
service offering a range a vehicles from the Opel Corsa to luxury mini-vans. Located here
near the train station and also at Krakw Balice airport (ul.
Kapitana Medweckiego 1, open 08:00-22:00). Q Open
09:00-17:00, Sat 09:00-13:00. Sun open on request.
Dragon-VIP J-4, ul. Rejtana 7, tel.

(+48) 509 58 88 60, www.dragonvip.pl. A wide choice of vehicles
from small cars like the Peugeot 207,
through mid-size like the Peugeot 308
to more exclusive vehicles. It is also
possible to hire a car with a driver.
Delivery and collection of cars in Krakw is free. GPS is also
available free of charge with some cars. Q Open 08:0018:00, Sat 08:00-14:00. Outside of these hours on request.
Nadwilaska 6 (Qubus
Hotel), tel. (+48) 12 374
56 96, www.europcar.pl. Offering both short and
long term rental options with 9 different categories of
car available for your individual needs. Excellence in
service with benefits tailored to your specific requirements. Europcar is present at all Polish airports including
Krakw-Balice, tel. 12 257 79 00. Q Open 09:00 - 17:00.
Closed Sat, Sun. Outside of these hours open on request.
prices. Insurance and unlimited mileage included in rental
price. Friendly, reliable service. Q Open 10:00-18:00. Sat,
Sun Open on request.
Hertz H-3, Al. Focha 1, tel. (+48) 12 429 62 62, www.
hertz.com.pl. Also at Balice Airport, tel. 12 285 50 84.
QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Joka D-2, ul.

Zacisze 7 (3rd floor,
room 7), tel. (+48)
601 54 53 68,
www.joka.com.pl. A wide range of cars including Opel
Astra 3, BMW, Subarus up to the spacious Mercedes
E220 CDi station wagon. All cars are equipped with power
steering. Satellite navigation systems are also available.
Special rates offered to those who order through the
Joka website. Q Open 09:00-17:00, Sat 09:00-12:00.
Outside of these hours on request.
Taxis
Public Transport
Not the dodgy enterprise it once was, most taxis are

reliable and use their metres without any fiddling around,
but beware of the cowboys sometimes waiting outside
the train station and some clubs. Make sure you choose
a clearly marked cab with a company name and phone
number displayed and a sticker demarcating prices in the
window. Taxis are now legally obliged to give you a printed
receipt at journeys end further limiting the likelihood of
any funny business. There is a taxi rank across the square
from the main train station on ul. Pawia (D-2) or walk up
the stairs from the platforms to find reliable Radio Taxi
19191 on the rooftop parking lot. Expect to pay 7z plus
about 2.30z per kilometre. At night expect to pay up to
50% more for the pleasure. Whether or not to tip your
taxi driver is a bit of a point of contention. Many Poles do
not consider taxis a service that necessitates a tip and
thereby, if youre Polish, the driver may not expect one. But
double standards being what they are, its anticipated that
foreigners will leave a tip, in which case 10% is appropriate,
or simply rounding up the bill. We leave it to you.
While Krakow has no underground metro system it does

have an integrated bus and tram system which runs from
05:00-23:00, with night buses continuing after that. Get
tickets from the handy ticket machines at major tram stops
or on-board most trams (there is an English-language option),
or from the driver immediately on boarding if there is no ticket
machine; drivers do not give change and only sell single trip
tickets for 3.60z. Tickets can also be bought at some kiosks
with Sprzeda biletw MPK signs in the windows.
A 15 minute ticket is available costing 2z. By our estimation, this is about the time it should take to go 5 or 6 stops,
though its hard to know with heavy traffic sometimes
clogging up the tram lanes. If going more than 5 stops we
recommend you purchase the old standard fare ticket of
2.80z, though this does not allow passengers to change
trams; if you intend to change trams you need to buy a
one hour fare for 3.60z. 24-hour, 48-hour, 72-hour, 7-day
and monthly passes are also available. Weekend family
passes for 12.00z are another option, giving you and yours
(minimum one adult and one child under 16) unlimited travel
on all day-routes, or consider the Krakw Tourist Card (see
Basics), which includes unlimited free travel on trams and
buses amongst its benefits. Note that ISIC or other nonPolish student ID is valid for transport ticket discounts, but
you must carry your ID and be under 26.
Most importantly, you must stamp your ticket immediately on boarding the tram or bus in the small machines
on-board, even if you bought your ticket on-board. Beware that inspectors regularly travel on the lines handing
out fines to those without valid or proper tickets. They are
obliged to carry ID and to show it upon request.
Barbakan Taxi tel. (+48) 12 196 61, www.taxi.

barbakan.krakow.pl.
City Taxi tel. (+48) 12 196 21.

Euro Taxi tel. (+48) 12 196 64, www.eurotaxi.
krakow.pl.
Mega Taxi tel. (+48) 12 196 25, www.megataxi.eu.

Radio Taxi 919 tel. (+48) 12 191 91, www.
radiotaxi919.pl.
Sixt ul. Kpt. M. Medweckiego 1 (Krakow Airport), tel.

(+48) 12 639 32 16, www.sixt.pl. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00.
Radio Taxi Wawel tel. (+48) 12 196 66, www.

waweltaxi.pl.
17
18
ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT
ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT
19
BASICS
BASICS
Basic Data
Tourist Card
Market Values
Mail & Phones
Territory
Poland covers an area of 312,685 square kilometers
and is the ninth biggest country in Europe. It borders
the Baltic Sea (528km) and seven countries, namely
Belarus (416km), Czech Republic (790km), Germany
(467km), Lithuania (103km), the mysterious Russian
exclave of Kaliningrad (210km), Slovakia (539km) and
Ukraine (529km).
The enterprising tourist should

consider picking up the Krakw
Tourist Card, a superb piece
of plastic that allows you free
travel on trams and buses, day
and night. The best bit is free
entry to over 30 Krakw museums - an impressive
savings for the serious tourist. Two and three day cards
are available, priced at 50z and 65z respectively and
they are valid until midnight on the day indicated on the
reverse. Every venue listed in our guide which accepts
the Krakw Tourist Card has been marked with a Tourist
Card symbol Y. Available at all tourist information
offices, for a full list of vendors and benefits visit www.
krakowcard.com.
Prices in Poland are still fairly competitive despite

increases over the last couple of years particularly in
the prices of cigarettes. Here are some typical everyday
products and prices.
Market values as of 22nd November 2011
based on 1 = 4.44z
Product
Price (z) Price ()
McDonald's Big Mac
8.60 z
1.94
Snickers
1.49 z
0.34
0.5ltr vodka (shop)
21.99 z 4.95
0.5ltr beer (shop)
2.89 z
0.65
0.5ltr beer (bar)
8.00 z
1.80
Loaf of white bread
2.49 z
0.56
20 Marlboros
11.80 z 2.66
1 ltr of unleaded petrol (98)
5.72 z
1.29
Local transport ticket (1 journey) 3.60 z
0.81
Internet Cafes
Longest River
Krakw is split by the river Vistula (Wisa). At 1,047km
it is Polands longest river, flowing through Warsaw and
into the Bay of Gdask (Zatoka Gdaska).
Highest Point
The highest peak is Rysy (2,499m) in the nearby Tatra
Mountains. In comparison Krakws landscape is flat
and the city lies 219m above sea level.
Population (2010)
Poland - 38.200.037
Warsaw - 1.720.398
Krakw - 756.183
d - 737.098
Wrocaw - 632.996
Pozna - 551.627
Gdask - 456.967
Katowice - 306.826
Sopot - 38.141
Local Time
Poland is in the Central European (CET) time zone
(GMT+1hr). When its 12:00 in Krakw its 6:00 am in New
York City, 11:00 in London, 12:00 in Paris and Berlin and
19:00 in Tokyo. Polish summer time (GMT+2hrs) starts
and ends on the last Sundays of March and October.
Twin Towns
Bordeaux, Bratislava, Budapest, Curitiba, Cuzco, Edinburgh, Fes, Florence, Frankfurt, Gothenburg, Innsbruck,
Kyiv, La Serena, Leipzig, Leuven, Lviv, Milan, Nuremberg,
Orlans, Pecs, Quito, Rochester (NY), Rome, Saint Petersburg, San Francisco (CA), Seville, Solothurn, Tbilisi,
Vilnius, Zagreb
necessary documents; if there is any doubt about the value

or age of your purchase, we suggest you visit an Antykwariat
(antiques dealer see shopping) for advice.
Electricity
Electricity in Poland is 230V, 50Hz AC. Plug sockets are round
with two round-pin sockets. Therefore if you are coming
from the US, UK or Ireland you are definitely going to need a
plug converter. The best place to pick these up is at home
though if you do arrive without a converter try your luck with
your hotel reception; they should be able to point you to an
electrical store if they cant provide a converter themselves.
Health & Emergency

In case of an emergency those dialling from a land line or
public phone should use the following numbers: 999 for
an ambulance, 998 for the fire brigade and 997 for the
police. Mobile phone users should call 112 to be forwarded
to the relevant department. English speaking assistance
is not necessarily guaranteed, and rests on the linguistic
capabilities of the operator.
Between June 1st and September 30th however, English,
German and Russian speakers have the option of using a
separate line specifically designed for foreigners in distress:
dial 800 200 300 from a land-line or 608 599 999 from a
mobile phone for troubles during high-tourist season.
If youve woken up to find youve got a raging headache, a
Customs
80
20
Rainfall
Temperature
18
70
16
60
14
50
12
40
10
30
6
20
4
10
0
1
swollen foot you cant put weight on and vague memories of

some kind of calamity, we suggest you sort it out by calling a
private clinic, thus avoiding the hassle of the notoriously long
queues in Polish hospitals; a list of private clinics can be found
in the Directory in the back of this guide. Further help can be
provided by embassies and consulates, a list of which can
also be found in the Directory. If its a financial emergency your
hopes will rest on a Western Union money transfer. Most banks
and many exchange bureaus (kantors) can now carry out such
transactions, just keep an eye out for the Western Union logo.
Jaywalking
A peculiar sight you might come across, particularly if you are
from a country which has no (or doesnt respect) jaywalking laws,
is that of a crowd of people standing obediently at a crossing
waiting for the lights to change. This peculiarity has extra effect
if you are aware of how little Poles respect the rules of the road
in a vehicle, where it often feels like survival of the fittest. The
reason for the obedience of this particular rule is the fact that
the local city police (Stra Miejska) will quite freely give you a 50z
fine for crossing a road at a place where no crossing is marked
or a 100z fine when the walk light is red. And dont think you
are exempt by being a foreign visitor. You are subject to the law
too and your non-residency means you will need to pay the fine
on the spot (the helpful chaps will even accept foreign currency).
Quick Currency Convertor

PLN
Climate
Temperature (C)
If you are travelling within the EU those over 18 can now take
10 litres of spirits, 90 litres of wine and 110 litres of beer.
Most countries will not allow more than 800 cigarettes from
Poland. If purchasing art or books, you need to consider their
age and value. In order to leave the country, art must be
either less than 50 years old or under a certain value (varies
depending by type; photos <6,000z, other art <14,000z,
for example); if one of these conditions is met, the gallery
curator can then provide you with a zawiadczenie (permission document) describing the artworks price and when and
where it was created. If the work exceeds the permitted age
and value, you must get permission from the Wojewdzki
Konserwator Zabytkw (Regional Curators Office) to take
it out of Poland; bear in mind that this process will likely take
2-3 months. Books must be less than 100 years old, or under
6,000z in value in order to leave the country; if neither applies, permission must be obtained from the National Library.
Obviously, problems arise when purchases are made at
bazaars or flea markets where vendors cannot provide the
Rainfall (mm)
20
10
11
12
Institute of Meteorology and Water Management,

www.imgw.pl
1 z
2 z
3 z
4 z
5 z
6 z
7 z
8 z
9 z
10 z
20 z
50 z
100 z
150 z
200 z
250 z
1 000 z
US$
3.29z = $1
$0.30
$0.61
$0.91
$1.22
$1.52
$1.82
$2.13
$2.43
$2.74
$3.04
$6.08
$15.20
$30.40
$45.59
$60.79
$75.99
$303.95
Euro
4.44z = 1
0.23
0.45
0.68
0.90
1.13
1.35
1.58
1.80
2.03
2.25
4.50
11.26
22.52
33.78
45.05
56.31
225.23
Pound
5.14z = 1
0.19
0.39
0.58
0.78
0.97
1.17
1.36
1.56
1.75
1.95
3.89
9.73
19.46
29.18
38.91
48.64
194.55
Czarny Florian D-6, ul. Podbrzezie 2, tel. (+48)

12 397 80 45, www.czarnyflorian.pl. Seven PCs
complete with everything you need to keep in touch.
QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
Nandu B-3, ul. Wilna 6, tel. (+48) 12 421 03 26,
www.nandu.pl. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 23:00. 5z for first hour, 4z per hour thereafter. Printing
and cd-burning available.
Post
A bureaucratic nightmare buried under paperwork riddled
with illegible stamps and seals, there is no indication
that Polands postal service - Poczta Polska - will be
automated or computerised during our lifetimes. There
can be no doubt that the post office is one of the most
frustrating places to be a foreigner in Poland, as youre
guaranteed to not understand a damn thing happening
there. Your best ally is the person in line next to you; if
theres one person in the room who speaks not a word of
English, its the qualified clerk at the service window. Also,
dont expect any signs to feature English translations,
though all paperwork has been mystifyingly translated
into French (and only French). When you get to the head
of that insufferably long queue, dont be surprised to
be sent to another or back to the end, paperwork in
hand. The declaration that your nicely wrapped parcel
is somehow unacceptable is another popular reason
why you might find yourself ready to go postal, though
there are many others.
If sending something of any monetary or sentimental
value, please, make sure you do so by using priority mail
or better; magic word: Priorytet. Choosing the cheapest
overseas option available will ensure your package is
opened before it arrives and the contents may or may
not be removed. Were not exaggerating.
There are many post offices around Krakw, with Poczta
Gowna at the corner of ul. Westerplatte and Wielopole
(D-4) being the largest and most incomprehensible. All
post offices close early on Saturday, if open at all, and
all will be closed Sunday. Good luck, gringo.
Mailboxes Etc. A-1, ul. Karmelicka 55, tel. (+48)

12 631 20 66, www.mbe.com.pl. A great alternative to
the post office, this city centre shop offers UPS and FedEX
shipping services. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Poczta Gwna D-4, ul. Westerplatte 20, tel. (+48)
12 421 03 48, www.poczta-polska.pl. Krakws main
and most central post office. Packages over 2kg can only
be sent from a separate room (Paczki) to the left of the
main entrance. You do not need to take a queue ticket to
buy stamps and if disabled you get a free pass to window
9. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Public Phones
After being virtually wiped out, pay phones in Krakw have
made an inexplicable comeback. As such, many are new
and actually work. Almost all of them require you use a
phone card with an electronic chip, which can be obtained
at most kiosks, but not all, so it may take some perseverance to track one down. The magic words are Prosz
kart telefoniczn. These cards run down very fast if you
are calling cell phones, so if you plan on making many
such calls, get the biggest one you can find. Ring-a-ling.
21
22
CULTURE & EVENTS
BASICS
Money
Language Smarts
Many Poles, particularly younger people, have a fairly healthy
command of the English language. Many will also be adept at
other European languages with German being the most commonly
spoken. Older Poles will fiercely contest that they have forgotten
the Russian taught to them at school but most will still have a
reasonable understanding.
Mastering the Polish tongue can be a terrifying ordeal and will often
result in personal degradation as shop assistants laugh at your
flustered attempts. That aside, learning a few key phrases will smooth
your time in Poland and may even win you friends and admirers.
On the positive side Polish sounds as it appears. This is a great
help once you know how to pronounce each letter/combination
of letters. Many letters represent the same sounds as they do in
English. Below we have listed those particular to Polish.
Basic pronunciation of Polish vowels
sounds like on in the French bon
sounds like en as in the French bien
is an open o sound like oo in boot
Basic pronunciation of consonants
c like the ts in bits
j like the y in yeah
w is pronounced like the English v
like the w in win
like the ny in canyon
cz and like the ch in beach
dz like the ds in beds
rz and like the su in treasure
sz and like the sh in ship
drz like the g in George
r is always rolled and stress is generally always on the last but
one syllable.
Think youve got that? Here are some words and phrases to get
you started.
Civilities
cze
dzie dobry
dobry wieczr
dobranoc
tak
nie
prosz
na zdrowie
dzikuje
przepraszam
kocham ci
Mam na imi
Jestem z Anglii
(cheshch)
(jen do-bri)
hi/bye
good morning/
afternoon
(do-bri vyeh-choor) good evening
(dobrah-nots)
good night
(tahk)
yes
(nyeh)
no
(prosheh)
please
(nah zdrovyeh)
cheers
(jen-koo-yeh)
thank you
(psheh-prasham)
sorry
(koham tshe)
I love you
(mam nah ee-myeh) My name is
(yehstem zanglee) I am from England
Necessities
Gdzie s toalety? (gdjeh song toalety)
Czy mwi pan/pani (che moovee
po angielsku?
pan/panee po
angyelskoo?)
Nie mwi po
(nyeh moovyeh po
polsku
polskoo)
Prosz to napisa (prosheh toh
napeesatch)
Czy mona tu pali (che mohzhnah too
paleech?)
Jedno piwo
(yedno peevo pohpoprosz
prosheh)
Where are the toilets?

Do you (male/female)
speak English?
I dont speak Polish
Please write it down
Can I smoke here?
One beer please
Numbers
1
2
3
10
jeden
dwa
trzy
dziesi
General
Airport
Train station
Bus station
Right/left
One ticket to
First/second class
lotnisko
dworzec pkp
dworzec pks
prawo/lewo
jeden bilet do
pierwsza/druga klasa
yehden
dva
tshi
jayshench
Thinking of paying for your tram ticket with one of the 100z
notes in your pocket? Think again. Small shops, newsagents,
public toilets, even the occasional fast food franchise and bar
will often refuse to break a large note for you. As annoying
as coins can be, do carry small change for such moments.
Currency can be exchanged at airports, hotels, banks and
anywhere with a sign proclaiming Kantor. Kantors will often
provide better value than the banks in your home country
or the ATM although for obvious reasons be very wary of
Kantors in the airports, bus stations and close to tourist
sights. Shopping around will reward you with the best rate.
Since EU ascension and becoming a favoured tourist destination,
prices in Poland and especially Krakw have been on the rise,
making the country less of a bargain than it was five years ago.
Having said that, however, prices for food, drink, cultural venues
and transport still remain comparably cheap in contrast to Western Europe. A ticket to the theatre or cinema will rarely cost more
than 20z while admission to most museums costs around 5-15z.
Religion
For over one thousand years Poland has been a bulwark of
Catholicism, fighting against the horrors of pagan invasions
and looking to Catholicism for a sense of social and national
unity. When Poland was partitioned in the 19th century, many
turned to the church for solace and during the communist era,
underground resistance meetings were surreptitiously held in
churches. The deceased Polish-born Pope John Paul II remains
a genuine source of pride for all Poles, and is beloved in a way
more profound than cynics in the West can understand. Those
used to the more easy-going habits of the West may find the
Polish enthusiasm a bit unnerving at first, particularly the solemn
and opulent processions that occur from time to time and the
droves that flock to mass. Tourists should remember while visiting Krakws many churches that these arent museums, but
active places of worship to be treated with the requisite respect.
Safety
In general Krakw is far safer than most Western cities,
and visitors are unlikely to face any problems if they simply
employ common sense. Petty crime does exist, and travellers
should be on guard against pickpockets; if youre in a bar or
a restaurant keep your wallet inside your trouser pocket, not
inside a jacket casually left lying around. Those travelling
by car are advised to use a guarded car park. Robberies on
overnight trains are not unheard of, especially on the routes
connecting Krakw with Prague and Berlin; book a couchette
or a sleeper cabin. Perhaps the biggest danger in Krakw is
posed by groups of drunken football hooligans who can be
easily avoided and heard coming a mile away. Finally, be suspicious of young women who take an overactive interest in you
and suggest taking you to some dodgy nightclub not in this
guide where after the fact you will be intimidated into paying for
vastly overpriced drinks by thuggish bouncers; its happened.
Toilets
Generally speaking, toilets in Poland come marked with a
circle for women, and a triangle for men. Although the habit
is gradually dying some restaurants and bars still charge a
nominal fee for use of their facilities - no matter how much
cash youve already spent in the establishment. This is a
practice also used in train stations and most public conveniences. Keep small change handy.
Toilet C-5, Wawel Hill.
Toilet D-6, Pl. Nowy.
Toilet C-3, Rynek Gwny 1 (Cloth Hall).
Polands most historic city, currently weighing in with 11

major theatres and over 40 museums (see Sightseeing),
Krakow has always been the Cultural Capital of Poland,
and bore that banner on behalf of all Europe back in 2000.
Galleries include Bunkier Sztuki (the Art Bunker), Starmach
and Pauza. Classical music fans will be spoilt for choice at
the Philharmonic and Krakow Opera, while those who favour
something more contemporary should beat a track to the
basement of Alchemia or see whats on in Forty Kleparz and
Lizard King. The cultural depth of the city is easily revealed by
the range of its festival calendar, with annual standouts like
the Street Theatre Festival, Jewish Culture Festival and the
Krakw Film Festival, offset by more eccentric endeavours
like the annual Dragon and Dachsund Parades (respectively),
the Pierogi Festival and Juwenalia (student mayhem!). For
the latest Krakw events information make www.krakow.
inyourpocket.com the first place you visit.
Cultural Centres
British Council C-3, Rynek Gwny 6, tel. (+48) 12
428 59 30, www.britishcouncil.pl.Q Open 08:30 - 19:00,
Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Cervantes Institute C-5, ul. Kanonicza 12, tel.
(+48) 12 421 32 55, www.cracovia.cervantes.es.
Q Open 10:00 - 19:30, Fri 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat,
Sun. Library open 09:30 - 14:00, 15:30 - 20:00, Fri 09:30
- 14:00 and every last Sun of the month 10:30 - 13:30.
Clsoed Sat, Sun.
Dworek Biaoprdnicki Cultural Centre (Centrum Kultury Dworek Biaoprdnicki) ul. Papiernicza 2 (Krowodrza), tel. (+48) 12 420 49 50, www.
dworek.krakow.pl.Q Box office open 08:00 - 15:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Goethe Institute (Instytut Goethego) C-3, Rynek
Gwny 20, tel. (+48) 12 422 69 02, www.goethe.de/
krakau.QOpen 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Library Open
11:00 - 16:00, Tue, Thu 13:00 - 18:00. Closed Fri, Sat, Sun.
Jewish Community Centre (Centrum Spoecznoci

ydowskiej w Krakowie) D-6, ul. Miodowa 24, tel.
(+48) 12 370 57 70, www.jcckrakow.org.QOpen 10:00
- 20:30, Fri 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Galleries
Art Space C-3, ul. w. Marka 22, tel. (+48) 607 943
194, www.as-22.blogspot.com.QOpen 11:00 - 18:00.
Admission free.
Bunkier Sztuki B-2, Pl. Szczepaski 3a, tel. (+48) 12
422 10 52, www.bunkier.com.pl.QOpen 11:00 - 18:00.
Closed Mon. Admission 6/3z.
International Cultural Centre (Midzynarodowe

Centrum Kultury) C-3, Rynek Gwny 25, tel. (+48) 12
424 28 00, www.mck.krakow.pl.QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.
Closed Mon. Admission 8/5z.
Jan Fejkiel Gallery C-4, ul. Grodzka 65, tel. (+48)

12 429 15 53, www.fejkielgallery.com.QOpen 12:00
- 14:00, 15:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00, Closed Sun.
Admission free.
Pauza Gallery (Galeria Pauza) C-2, ul. Floriaska
18/5 (3nd floor), tel. (+48) 602 60 06 79, www.galeriapauza.pl.QOpen 15:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission free.
Polonia House (Wsplnota Polska) C-3, Rynek
Gwny 14, tel. (+48) 12 422 43 55, www.swp.krakow.
pl.QOpen 11:00 - 17:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00, Closed Sun.
Admission free.
Poster Gallery (Galeria Plakatu) C-3, ul. Stolarska
8-10, tel. (+48) 12 421 26 40, www.cracowpostergallery.com.QOpen 12:00 - 17:00, Sat 11:00 - 14:00. Closed
Sun. Admission free.
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Krakw Cinemas
ARS Cinema C-3, ul. w. Jana 6, tel. (+48) 12 421
41 99, www.ars.pl.Q Box office open from 30 minutes
before the first showtime to 30 minutes after the last
showtime. Tickets 12-19z.
Cinema City J-3, ul. Podgrska 34 (Galeria Kazimierz), tel. (+48) 12 254 54 00, www.cinema-city.
pl.Q Box office open 10:00 - 22:45. Tickets 15-29z.
Cinema City Plaza L-2, Al. Pokoju 44, tel. (+48)
12 290 90 90, www.cinema-city.pl.Q Box office
open 30 minutes before the first shotime to 15 minutes
after last showtime. Tickets 15-29z.
Kijw.Centrum H-3, Al. Krasiskiego 34, tel.
(+48) 12 433 00 33, www.kijowcentrum.pl.Q Box
office open 30 minutes before the first showtime until
the last showtime. Tickets 10-24z.
Kino 18 C-2, ul. Floriaska 18/5 (2nd floor), tel.
(+48) 606 88 83 80, www.pauza.pl.Q Box office
open half hour before showtime, mostly one film a day.
Tickets 5-15z.
Kino Agrafka C-1, ul. Krowoderska 8, tel. (+48) 12
430 01 79, www.kinoagrafka.pl.Q Box office open
from 30 minutes before the first showtime until the last
showtime. Tickets 9-17z.
Kino Paradox A-3, ul. Krupnicza 38, tel. (+48)
12 430 00 15 ext. 213, www.kinoparadox.pl.
Q Box office open 15 minutes before the showtime.
Tickets 10z.
Kino Pod Baranami C-3, Rynek Gwny 27, tel.
(+48) 12 423 07 68, www.kinopodbaranami.
pl.QBox office open 45 minutes before first showtime
to 15 minutes after last showtime. Tickets 11-22z.
23
24
CULTURE & EVENTS

Classical Music Concerts
CULTURE & EVENTS

Space Gallery B-2, ul. w. Marka 7, tel. (+48) 12 421
89 94, www.spacegallery.com.pl.QOpen 10:00 - 18:30,
Sat 10:00 - 15:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Admission free.
Starmach Gallery J-4, ul. Wgierska 5, tel. (+48) 12
656 43 17, www.starmach.eu.QOpen 11:00 - 18:00.
Closed Sat, Sun. Admission free.
Concerts
03.12 Saturday
ywioak, Kapela ze wsi Warszawa
Ukrainian Art Gallery (Galeria Sztuki Ukraiskiej)
C-5, ul. Kanonicza 15, tel. (+48) 12 421 92 94.Q

Open 12:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon.
Admission free.
Theatre Stages
Groteska Theatre A-2/3, ul. Skarbowa 2, tel. (+48)
12 633 48 22, www.groteska.pl.QBox office open:
01.12 Thursday - 31.01 Tuesday
Chopin Concerts in the Legendary Wierzynek

C-3, Wierzynek Restaurant, Rynek Gwny 15, tel.
(+48) 602 63 60 36, www.newculture.pl. These special events take place everyday in December and January.
They are recitals by gifted members of the Krakw Music
Academy, many of whom are laureates from international
piano contests. The programme is as varied as you like,
approaching the great mans work from a number of perspectives. A must for all fans. Concerts take place from
Wednesday to Sunday at 19:00, there are also Christmas
and New Year concerts in the pipeline so keep an eye on
the website if youre interested. Q Concerts take palce
every Wed Thu, fri, Sat, Sun at 19:00. Tickets 60/40z.
Premium 150z. VIP 200z. Available at City Information
Point, C-3, ul. w. Jana 2 (Open 10:00 - 18:00).
01.12 Thursday - 12.01 Thursday
Classical Music, Opera & Organ Concerts

in St. Peter & Pauls Church
C-4, St. Peter & Pauls Church, ul. Grodzka 54, tel.
(+48) 602 63 60 36, www.newculture.pl. A chance
to hear a wonderful series of concerts in the breathtaking
surroundings of St. Peter & Pauls and St. Giles Church. At
St. Peter & Pauls, the event begins at 20.00 every Monday,
Tuesday and Thursday and one can expect to hear a mixture
of baroque, romance and film music all performed by the
Krakw City Orchestra. The last concert takes place on February 12th when the concert season ends. The after season
break lasts until February 18th. Q Concerts take place every
Mon, Tue, Thu at 20:00. Tickets 50/30z. Available at City
Information Point (ul. w. Jana 2, C-3, Open 10:00 - 18:00).
03.12 Saturday - 28.01 Saturday
Cracow Folk Show

C-3, Piwnica Pod Wierzynkiem, Rynek Gwny 15,
tel. (+48) 602 63 60 36, www.newculture.pl. Come
along and admire all of Polands national dances including the Polonez, Mazur, Oberek and Kujawiak. The fun
doesnt end there as there will be all manner of traditional
colourful costumes on show as well as the chance to sing
Krakowian songs and try the dances for yourself along
with the Krakovenska Group. If that wasnt enough, you
can also taste all the delicious, home-made specialities
that Polish cuisine has to offer, straight from the medieval
cellars of the house of Mikoaj Wierzynek. The ticket
prices vary with a concert and 4 courses, or 6 courses
and vodka & slivovitz tasting on offer. Sounds like great
fun, recommended. Q Event takes place Sat at 19:00.
Tickets 100/150z. Available before the event.
08:00 - 12:00, 15:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun one hour before

performance. Tickets 14-30z.
Stary Teatr (Narodowy Stary Teatr) C-3, ul.
Jagielloska 5, tel. (+48) 12 422 85 66, www.stary.
pl.QBox office open 10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 19:00 and two
hours before the spectacle. Closed Mon. Tickets 15-50z. Y
Opera Stages
Krakw Opera (Opera Krakowska) E-2, ul. Lubicz

48, tel. (+48) 12 421 16 30, www.opera.krakow.pl.Q
Box office open 10:00 - 19:00, Sun two hours before the
performance. Tickets 15-120z.
G-2, Klub Studio, ul. Budryka 4, tel. (+48) 12 617 45

45, www.klubstudio.pl. Two acts play here. Eurovision
nominees and assorted folk festival winners ywioak play
what is described as Slavic biometal, folkmetal and hard
folk, for those who like their music eclectic. Meanwhile
Kapela Ze Wsi Warszawa also give clues in their name.
Referring to Warsaw a Village, their reggae is filled with
Mazovian folk accents, weird, maybe wonderful. Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 25-40z. Available at Empik
Megastore, C-3, Rynek Gwny 5 (Open 09:00 - 22:00)
and www.ticketpro.pl.
Philharmonic
07.12 Wednesday
Krakw Chamber Opera (Krakowska Opera Kameralna) E-5, ul. Miodowa 15, tel. (+48) 12 430 66 06,
www.kok.art.pl.QBox office open 10:00 - 16:00, Sat, Sun
depending on repertoire. Tickets 40-120z.
Krakw Philharmonic (Filharmonia Krakowska)

B-4, ul. Zwierzyniecka 1, tel. (+48) 12 429 13 45, www.
filharmonia.krakow.pl.QBox office open 11:00 - 14:00,
15:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun one hour before performance. Closed
Mon. Tickets 10-40z.
Ballet
22.12 Thursday - 23.12 Friday
Moscow City Ballet

A-2, Auditorium Maximum Hall, ul. Krupnicza 35, tel.
(+48) 32 271 66 22, www.makroconcert.com/pl.
In what is becoming a yearly tradition, Viktora SmirnovaGolovanovs Moscow City Ballet group is coming to Poland
once again. With dancers culled from the best dance schools
in Russia and Ukraine, they will present their rendition of
Piotr Tchaikovskys Swan Lake on the first day (16:30 and
20:00) with Nutcracker on the second day (20:00). Definitely
worth the effort and a treat for all. Q Tickets 110-150z.
Available at City Information Point, C-3, ul. w. Jana 2 (Open
10:00 - 18:00).
Information & Tickets

City Information Point (Punkt Informacji
Miejskiej) C-3, ul. w. Jana 2, tel. (+48) 12 421
77 87, www.karnet.krakow.pl. Helpful people who can
tell you whats going on and who can sell you tickets as
well. It publishes Karnet (4z), a comprehensive monthly
listing of cultural events in Polish and English, as well as
the free yearly Karnet with an overview of major events
in English. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00.
Cree
Zacianek, ul. Rostafiskiego 4 (Krowodrza), tel. (+48)
12 617 37 07, www.klubzascianek.pl. Rock with a hint of
the blues is what you can expect from Cree. Established in
1993 when the boys were just 16-year-old nippers, popularity
arrived thanks to the reality show Bar VIP in which the leader
of the group took part. Hes got some pedigree being the son
of Dem lead vocalist Ryszard Riedel. Q Concert starts at
20:00. Tickets 15-25z. Available at Empik Megastore, C-3,
Rynek Gwny 5 (Open 09:00 - 22:00) and www.ticketpro.pl.
09.12 Friday
Abradab
H-3, Rotunda, ul. Oleandry 1, tel. (+48) 12 292 65 16,
www.rotunda.pl. Abradab is the man behind the birth of
hip hop in Poland as a member of the now defunct Kaliber
44. After the split he recorded 4 solo albums and made
many guest appearances, most notably was in 2010 when
he was riding high in the charts with a song recorded with
rockers Maciej Maleczuk and Wojciech Waglewski. Q
Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 35/40z. Available at the
Rotunda box office (Open 10:00-19:00, Sat, Sun depending
on repertoire).
10.12 Saturday
Mt Eden
H-3, Rotunda, ul. Oleandry 1, tel. (+48) 12 292 65
16, www.rotunda.pl. This production duo features Jesse
Hooper and Harley Rayner from Auckland. Their Dubstep
Sierra Leone youtube clips has already had 16 million views
and counting. Q Concert starts at 21:00. Tickets 29z.
Available at Rotundas box office (Open 10:00-13:00, 16:0019:00, Sat, Sun depending on repertoire).
25
26
CULTURE & EVENTS

Cracow Concerts
01.12 Thursday - 31.12 Saturday
Chopin Concerts in Bonerowski Palace

tel. (+48) 510 32 29 46, www.cracowconcerts.com.
Enjoy the music of Polands greatest composer, Fryderyk
Chopin, as performed by pianists Witold Wilczek, Weronika
Krwka, Dobrchna Krwka, Kazuko Tsuji and others.
Everyday concerts take place in the Bonerowski Palace,
C-3, ul. w. Jana 1. Come along and enjoy a concert
every day in December and January with a glass of wine
included in the price. Q Concerts take place every day
at 19:00. Tickets 55z. Available at City Information
Point, ul. w. Jana 2, C-3 (Open 10:00 - 18:00) and
before the concert.
03.12 Saturday - 28.01 Saturday
Folk Show
D-2, Jama Michalika, ul. Floriaska 45, tel. (+48)
510 32 29 46, www.cracowconcerts.com. This
famous secessionist cafe is a great place to encounter
Polish folk culture during the 90-minute performances
every Wednesday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday. Enjoy
traditional Polish food while being entertained by a local orchestra, folk dancers and the legendary Lajkonik
himself.Q Event takes place every Wednesday and Saturday at 19:00. Tickets 85z. Available before the event.
03.12 Saturday - 31.01 Tuesday
Klezmer Music
tel. (+48) 510 32 29 46, www.cracowconcerts.
com. Enjoy Jewish klezmer concerts performed by local
virtuosos every Thursday evening in Hotel Rubinstein,
E-6, ul. Szeroka 12 - named after the cosmetics queen
who used to live nearby. Located on Kazimierzs most
picturesque street, concerts begin at 19:00 and last an
hour. Other concerts also take take place in the Galicia
Jewish Museum, E-6, ul. Dajwr 18 on every Saturday at
19:00.Q Concerts start at 19:00. Tickets 50z. Available
before the concerts.
01.12 Thursday - 31.01 Tuesday
Classical, opera, film & tango - The best

concerts in Cracow
C-3, St. Wojciech Church, Rynek Gwny, tel. (+48)
510 32 29 46, www.cracowconcerts.com. The
Royal Chamber Orchestra is made up of outstanding
musicians, many Krakow Academy of Music alumni. St
Adalberts is said to be is the oldest church in Krakow
and, thanks to its baroque dome, provides unique
acoustics. Q Concerts every day at 19:00. Tickets 65z.
Available before the event.
CULTURE & EVENTS

10.12 Saturday
17.12 Saturday
Strachy na Lachy + Komety
donGURALesko
G-2, Klub Studio, ul. Budryka 4, tel. (+48) 12 617

45 45, www.klubstudio.pl. A joint concert with Strachy Na Lachy and Hurt. Strachy Na Lachy are one of
the most popular alternative music bands around and
are fronted by ex-Pidama Porno vocalist Piotr Graba
Grabarczyk, who wanted to branch out from the punkyska of PP. Although his lyrics and overall ideas were
good, his guitar skills left a little to be desired and so
Strachy were put together. Tonight they will per form
with another Polish band Komety. Q Concert starts at
20:00. Tickets 35/30z. Available at www.ticketpro.pl,
Empik Megastore, Rynek Gwny 5 (Open 09:00 - 22:00)
and before the event.

www.rotunda.pl. Donguralesko; alias Gural; real name
Piotr Grny. A Polish hip-hop emcee typifying the style
braggadocio, an invented word made to sound Italian to
give it a pseudo-sophisticated, yet Mafioso connotation;
braggadocio artists lyrically praise themselves and their
own ability to praise themselves in a misguided attempt
to assert their superiority over other artists ability to
praise themselves. Performing since 1995, Donguralesko
is therefore an established veteran of Polish hip-hop. Q
Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets35/40z. Available at Rotundas box office (Open 10:00-19:00, Sat, Sun depending
on repertoire).
11.12 Sunday
18.12 Sunday
Maciej Maleczuk - Psychodancing
Leszek Moder - Charity Concert
H-3, Kijw.Centrum, Al. Krasiskiego 34, tel. (+48)

12 433 00 33. Maciej Maleczuk draws a lot of water
in these parts, as they say in Westerns. He shot to
fame in 1981 by refusing the draft and subsequently
going to prison for 2 years. He started his career on
the streets of Krakw, where Andrzej Bieniasz saw him
and took him into his band Pudelsi in 1986. He left the
band at their peak in 2005 to focus on his solo career
and metal band Homo Twist. He also performs with the
group Psychodancing group where he performs Polish
classic songs. What a busy chap. Q Concerts start at
16:00 and 18:00. Tickets 60/80z. Available at Empik
B-4, Krakw Philharmonic, ul. Zwierzyniecka 1, tel.

(+48) 12 429 13 45, www.filharmonia.krakow.pl.
Probably the most recognisable of the current crop of Polish
pianists, Leszek Moder will present material from his Junereleased album which sees him performing songs by Krzysztof Komeda, who would be celebrating his 70th birthday this
year if he was still with us. Q Tickets 80/100z. Available at
Krakw Philharmonics box office (Open 11:00 - 14:00, 15:00
- 19:00, Sat, Sun one hour before performance. Closed Mon).
11.12 Sunday
Sikorowscy & Kroke

45 45, www.klubstudio.pl. Sikorowscy are Andrzej
and Maja Sikorowska; they are a daughter and father
who per form together with their poetry, literature and
music. Also on stage will be Kroke. The names means
Krakw in Yiddish and they per form world music with
elements of Jewish sounds together with Indian and
Balkan rhy thms. Q Concer t star ts at 20:00. Tickets 25 -40z. Availabl e at w w w.ti cketpro.pl, E mpik
Megastore, Rynek Gwny 5 (Open 09:00 - 22:00) and
before the event.
12.12 Monday
Wojciech Pilichowski - Hard Rock Cage 1st

Birthday
C-3, Hard Rock Cafe, Pl. Mariacki 9, tel. (+48) 12
429 11 55, www.hardrockcafe.pl. Pilichowskis been
a professional musician since 1992 recording his debut
album in 1994, so far he has 8 to his name. Meanwhile he
still works as a session musician and 120 albums with a
wide variety of top Polish talent is the result. Q Concert
starts at 20:00. Tickets 22/32z. Available at Hard Rock
Cafe (Open 10:00-24:00).
16.12 Friday
Punk-Ska Fest
16, www.rotunda.pl. Some big names on the Polish punk
scene: Bulbalators, Blade Loki, Vespa, ADHD Syndrom
gather at lower stage of the Rotunda club, recommended.
Q Concert starts at 19:00. Tickets 27/33z. Available at
Rotundas box office (Open 10:00-19:00, Sat, Sun depending on repertoire).
th
18.12 Sunday
Renata Przemyk
Kwadrat, Skaryskiego 1 (Czyyny), tel. (+48) 12 647
50 78, www.klubkwadrat.pl. Singer songwriter Renata
Przemyk has made 10 albums, most of which have gone gold,
but it all started by winning a student song competition in
1989. The influences are numbered as Tom Waits and Frank
Zappa, so we have an idea what to expect - it all sounds
rather interesting. Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets
35/40z. Available at Empik Megastore, C-3, Rynek Gwny
5 (Open 09:00 - 22:00) and www.ticketpro.pl.
st
1-3
rd
DECEMBER
19.12 Monday
Big Cyc
C-3, Hard Rock Cafe, Pl. Mariacki 9, tel. (+48) 12 429
11 55, www.hardrockcafe.pl. A Polish band with a satirical
character, they started out playing standard punk rock. No
strangers to controversy, usually of their own making, their
first album, 1990 Z Partyjnym Pozdrowieniem (Greetings
from the party) had Lenin with a mohecan. In 99 their leader
Skiba showed his love for post-communists by mooning at
the then prime minister. Now they are more poppy , but still
with punk rock accents. Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets
27/38z. Available at Hard Rock Cafe (Open 10:00-24:00).
14.01 Saturday
Michael Jackson Symphonically

G-2, Klub Studio, ul. Budryka 4, tel. (+48) 12 617 45
45, www.klubstudio.pl. This will be the first show of this
type in Poland. It features the biggest hits of pop legend
Michael Jackson performed by a symphony orchestra with
extra special singing arrangements and multimedia visualisations in the background. Come along and hear Thriller, Beat
it, Billy Jean, Dirty Diana, Smooth Criminal, Black or White in
what is described as an energetic symphony performance.
Performed by the Modern Symphony Orchestra conducted by
Mikoaj Blajda, they are a group of very talented artists new to
the Polish music scene. Q Concert starts at 19:00. Tickets
90-150z. Available at Empik Megastore, C-3, Rynek Gwny
5 (Open 09:00 - 22:00) and www.ticketpro.pl.
ABRADAB
th
DECEMBER 9
ROCK PARTY
FRIDAY 13 . 01 .2012
FREE ENTRANCE!
START 8:00 pm.
CHEAP BEER!
THE BEST ROCK SONGS!
th
OTUNDA
UL. OLEANDRY 1
27
28
CULTURE & EVENTS

Klub Studio
06.12 Tuesday
Kora
CULTURE & EVENTS

Exhibitions
15.11 Tuesday - 30.04 Monday
04.01 Tuesday - 31.01 Tuesday
K-4, Schindlers Factory, ul. Lipowa 4, tel. (+48) 12

257 10 17, www.mhk.pl. The title comes from a Winston
Churchill quote, but the subject here is the fate of women
in occupied Krakw. Come and explore the lives of women
from all backgrounds, ethnic groups and faiths and see how
the war impacted on their daily life. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00,
Mon 10:00 - 14:00. Closed the first Monday of every month.
Last entrance 90 minutes before closing. Admission 5/4z.
Krakw Under Nazi Occupation 1939-1945

45 45, www.klubstudio.pl. Undoubtedly the first lady
of Polish rock, shes been in the public eye a lot recently
on TV talent show juries - hey, we all need to pay the
rent. Here she will present her solo hits and songs from
her most famous band, Maanam. Q Concert starts at
20:00. Tickets 60/70z. Available at Empik Megastore,
C-3, Rynek Gwny 5 (Open 09:00 - 22:00) and www.
ticketpro.pl.
K-4, Schindlers Factory, ul. Lipowa 4, tel. (+48) 12

257 10 17, www.mhk.pl. This exhibition focusses on the
life and times of Oskar Schindler, perhaps the citys most
famous wartime resident. There are photos of the Polish
and Jewish communities showing how they coped with the
Nazi onslaught and occupation. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Mon
10:00 - 14:00. Closed the first Monday of every month. Last
entrance 90 minutes before closing. Admission 15/13z.
Guided tours in English for groups of over 15 people, 16z
per person. Mon free for permanent exhibitions.
07.12 Wednesday
29.06 Wednesday - 12.04 Thursday
Saxon
G-2, Klub Studio,
ul. Budryka 4, tel.
(+48) 12 617 45
4 5 , w w w. k l u b studio.pl. Cast
your minds back to
the golden days of
h eav y m etal a n d
you may recall the
mi gh t y Sa xon on
To p o f t h e P o p s
singing Wheels of Steel. Originally called Son of a
bitch they wisely changed names and released their
debut album in 1979. In 1995 the group split but,
only in heavy metal - this could be from Spinal Tap 2,
the courts ruled that all the members could use the
Saxon name. One line-up featuring guitarist Graham
Olivier and bassist Steve Dawson play as Oliver Dawson
Saxon, while tonights act, just plain Saxon, feature Biff
Byford on vocals and Paul Quinn on guitar. I wonder if
they ever get double booked at festivals?! Q Concert
starts at 20:00. Tickets 100/110z. Available at Empik
16.12 Friday
Lenny Valentino
G -2, Klub Studio, ul. Budryka 4, tel. (+48) 12
617 45 45, www.klubstudio.pl. A side project of
Artur Rojek, leader vocalist of Myslovitz group, the
name is taken name from the song by The Auteurs.
However, thats all that they have in common as
they play alternative music far removed from the
Auteurs style. Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 45/55z. Available at Empik Megastore, C-3,
Rynek Gwny 5 (Open 09:00 - 22:00) and www.
ticketpro.pl.
08.02 Wednesday
Lamb
G-2, Klub Studio, ul. Budryka 4, tel. (+48) 12
617 45 45, www.klubstudio.pl. Triphop a la Massive Attack, Portishead and Hooverphonic; Lamb
too prove that electronic music can have a romantic
face. Charismatic vocalist and lyricist Lou Rhodes and
multi-instrumentalist and producer Andy Barlow have
created something exceptional combining deep lyrics,
jazz with ambient and triphop sounds. Q Concert
starts at 20:00. Tickets 90/110z. Available at Empik
This Was the Hebrew School of Krakw. The

Hebrew Secondary School, 1918-1939
E-6, Old Synagogue, ul. Szeroka 24, tel. (+48) 12 422
09 62, www.mhk.pl. The Hebrew school in pre-war Krakw
was a big deal, and inculcated Polish patriotism as well as
Zionism with its dream of a Jewish state. The teachers were
bigwigs from the university and it produced major figures in
Polish-Jewish relations like Rafael Scharf, Natan Gross, and
Michael Michael. Q Open 09:00-16:00, Mon 10:00-14:00,
Fri 10:00-17:00. Closed Tue. Last entrance 30 minutes
before closing. Admission 8/6z, Mon free.
18.10 Tuesday - 29.01 Sunday
Hunting down Modernism - Prohibited Art in

the Third Reich
C-3, International Cultural Centre, Rynek Gwny 25,
tel. (+48) 12 424 28 00, www.mck.krakow.pl. The
idea here is to show work by German artists, writers and
composers who were persecuted by the Nazi authorities
during their time in office from 1933 to 1945. Included are
oils, prints, drawings, sculpture, literary works and musical
pieces and the artists featured number ErnstKarl Hofer,
Leo Haas, Heinrich Maria Davringhausen, Emil Nolde, Max
Ernst, Georg Grosz, Otto Freundlich, Wilhelm Lehmbruck, Else
Laser-Schler, Georg Meistermann, Irmgard Keun and Hanns
Eisler. Q Admission 8/5z. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.
09.11 Wednesday - 01.01 Sunday
All the Worlds Women Are in Me!

K-4, Museum of Contemporary Art, ul. Lipowa 4, tel.
(+48) 12 263 40 00, www.mocak.pl. This is that rarest
of things - a male feminist exhibition examining the presence
of women in the world, their versatility and adaptability,
bless. The artist Ane Lan creates situations where he has
to become a woman and look at the world from a female
perspective. What with there being lots of women, there is
scope to take on a multitude of roles. Q Open 12:00 - 20:00.
Closed Mon. Admission 10/5z. Free on Tue.
09.11 Wednesday - 29.01 Sunday
EU Textiles
(+48) 12 263 40 00, www.mocak.pl. Magorzata Markiewicz designed the national costumes of the European
Union. They have two parts: an E shaped blouse and U
shaped trousers - you couldnt make it up, could you? The
difference between the member states is seen in terms of the
materials used and the trim. Not sure about you, but I think
it would have to be a seriously rainy day to get me to this.
Still, it takes all sorts and it is gratifying to know our taxes
are being spent wisely. Q Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon.
Admission 10/5z, family ticket 20z. Tue free.
Is War Mens Business?
18.11 Friday - 25.03 Sunday
Ties
D-7, Ethnographical Museum, Pl. Wolnica 1, tel. (+48)
12 430 55 63, www.etnomuzeum.eu. This exhibition
is part of a new programme at the Ethnographic Museum
presenting works of selected artists and their comments on
current reality. Its also part of the celebrations surrounding
the Museums 100th anniversary. The subject of the show is
the lack of trust, kindness and honesty between people. Q
Open 11:00 - 19:00, Thu 11:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 15:00.
Admission 9/5z, Sun free for permanent exhibitions.
Turner - Painter of the Elements

H-3, National Museum in Krakw, Al. 3 Maja 1, tel.
(+48) 12 295 55 00, www.muzeum.krakow.pl. Come
along and see 84 works: watercolours and oils from the Tate
Gallery and other British and American collections. J.M.W.
Turner (1775-1851) is rightly seen as one of the forerunners
of Impressionism. This is his first show in Poland and a big
deal; it was on the main news when it was announced. The
subjects are sunrises, sunsets, the sea in different weather
and how all these interact with light. He was a revolutionary
and if you dont know him well, this is a great chance to right
that wrong. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00.
Admission 10/5z.
01.12 Thursday - 26.02 Sunday
Arbores Vitae
D-1, Galeria Krakowska, ul. Pawia 5, www.arboresvitae.eu. Part of an environmental project from the European
Earth Centre Foundation, Arbores vitae is an exhibition of
large scale photography of the Biaowiea Forest. The forest
is most famous for its bison, but is home to a huge variety of
unique species. Photographer Jan Walencik has managed
to capture their beauty and reach into unknown corners of
the forest. For two months the exhibition had been at Wawel,
but now it has moved to a shopping centre.QAdmission free.
Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.
The Journey To The East

(+48) 12 263 40 00, www.mocak.pl. Artists from Armenia, Azerbaijan, Belarus, Georgia, Moldova, Ukraine and
Poland all took part in this project: Journey East. All those
involved responded to questions asking about their inspiration, come and see how they replied. Q Open 11:00 - 19:00.
Closed Mon. Admission 10/5z, family ticket 20z. Tue free.
Festivals
01.12 Thursday - 03.12 Saturday
Jazz Juniors
16, www.rotunda.pl. Jazz Juniors is one of the oldest jazz
festivals in Poland and as you would imagine aims to pro-
Christmas Crib Contest

01.12 Thursday - 26.02 Sunday
69th Krakw Christmas Crib Contest and

Exhibition
C-3, Krzysztofory Palace, Rynek Gwny 35, tel.
(+48) 12 619 23 00, www.mhk.pl. One of Krakws
most unique and singular Christmas traditions is the
popular creation of szopki. Something of a strange
cross between a nativity scene, gingerbread house
and dollhouse, szopki are the bizarre result of a slowly
evolving folk tradition that dates back to the Middle
Ages. Originally used as mini puppet theatres upon which
morality plays were performed during the holiday season,
szopki gradually became more whimsical, secular and
satirical in nature, leading to an ironic ban on them on
church property in the 1700s and a prohibition against
their construction in the 19th century by which time they
had developed into a powerful political tool used in the
cafes and cabarets of the Old Town to criticise the occupying powers. Upon Polands return to the world map
after World War I, the szopki tradition was re-embraced
becoming the celebrated custom it is today.
Popularised as a way for 19th century masons and
other craftsmen to make some extra money during
the drizzly autumn months, szopki are now made by all
walks of life; in fact szopki dynasties have developed as
generations of the same family build a new elaborate
szopka every year. Using a variety of lightweight materials and covering them with coloured foil, ribbon and
other shiny bits, a typical szopka is bright and cheerful
and attempts to integrate the citys topography into the
traditional Bethlehem nativity scene. Though commonly
called Christmas cribs in English, szopki look more like
castles or cathedrals than cribs (in fact they in absolutely
no way resemble cribs), the general rule being that they
incorporate characteristics of Krakws range of historic
architectural styles. Most szopki are loosely-based off
the design of Mariacki church with its landmark spires;
however miniatures of other unique buildings like Wawel
Castle, the Sukiennice and the Barbakan have also been
made. Generally, baby Jesus can be found amongst the
glittering surfaces of the second floor, while the ground
floor is tenanted by figures from Krakowian history and
legend like Pan Twardowski, Tadeusz Kociuszko or the
Wawel dragon.
Cracow Crib Competition:
To support this unique folk tradition, the city has
sponsored a szopka competition since 1937. As per
tradition, the competition will begin on December 1st
this year (the first Thursday in December) at 9:00 when
cribmakers and szopka specialists will gather on the
main market square with this years entries, displaying them for the public around the Adam Mickiewicz
monument. Everyone is welcome to participate and
encouraged to admire the truly bizarre and ornately
decorated art-pieces of all sizes, free of charge. Later
they will be moved indoors to the History Museum
on the other side of the Rynek, where they will be on
display throughout the holidays until February 26th.
On Sunday (the 4th) awards will be given at 12:00 to
the winners in a number of categories. Each year, the
most intricate and interesting szopki are added to the
permanent collection of the Krakw History Museum.
[Open 09:00-18:00; Fri, Sat 09:00-19:00. Admission
8/6z, family ticket 16z. Mon 3z.]
29
30
CULTURE & EVENTS

Great Orchestra of Christmas Charity
08.01 Sunday
XX Great Orchestra of Christmas Charity

C-3, Rynek
G w n y, w w w.
wosp.org.pl. Its
a we l l -a c c e pte d
fact that the Polish
health care system
is downright dreadfu l. S o d re a d fu l
well say it a third
tim e: dread ful.
Health care practitioners have failed
over th e years through organised
strikes and other political actions - to get support
from the government for additional funding and a welldeserved increase in their wages, which are about a fifth
of what people in their profession earn in the UK. But
this isnt about Polish health care (dreadful!), its about
The Great Orchestra of Christmas Charity. No, thats not
the title of this years Charlie Brown Christmas special;
the Great Orchestra of Christmas Charity (known in
PL as Wielka Orkiestra witecznej Pomocy) is one
of Polands biggest non-profit charity organisations
and quite possibly the only thing keeping the countrys
health care system from completely collapsing (okay,
thats an exaggeration). Founded by Jerzy Owsiak in
1993, GOCC raises awareness and lots and lots of
money for childrens health care. Initially organised to
provide health care for children by supplying medical
equipment to public hospitals, GOCC changes its beneficiary cause each year and has since raised money
for child victims of motor accidents and children with
serious vision problems. In its only its first year, GOCC
was successful in raising over 1.5 million USD. Since
1993, theyve managed to raise an incredible 138 million USD for under-funded public hospitals in Poland,
while last year all previous records were decimated
with a whopping 14 million USD.
Once a year the Great Orchestras final fund-raiser is
organised by volunteers in virtually every town in Poland,
with hundreds of bands volunteering to play for free in the
fund-raising concerts that take place across the country
on the second Sunday of the New Year - January 8th
this year. Last year saw 800 concerts featuring 1300
performing artists and 120,000 volunteers participate
nationwide. Krakw will obviously be doing its part and
a large stage will be set up on the main market square
as volunteers with their recognisable red collection
buckets are out in force. This year the money will go
towards medical equipment necessary for saving the
lives of pre-term children and insulin pumps for pregnant
diabetic women. This years line-up and start time has
yet to be announced, but last years event began at
15:00 and everything concludes at 20:00 with a simultaneous fireworks display across the country, known as
the Light to Heaven. A truly virtuous and remarkably
successful project, those who have enough heart to
contribute will receive one as well: the iconic red sticker
which you will see on everyone in town this day. Indeed
the stickers are so prolific that to not have one is a bit
of an embarrassment. Go on, Scrooge. Its for the kids.
Q Admission free.
CULTURE & EVENTS

mote the talents of jazz young
guns, giving them a chance to
work with experienced musicians. Over the last 35 years,
the Rotunda Cultural Centre
stage has seen the first steps
of artists like Leszek Moder,
Krzysztof cieraski, Zbigniew Wegehaupt, Marek Baata, the Niedzielowie brothers,
the Pospieszalscy brothers, New Presentation, Walk Away
and Mio. The main theme this time is connecting tradition
with modernity. The first day includes the competition auditions (17:00, admission free) and a concert by the Wojciech
Mazolewski Quintet (20:30), something for all music fans.
The second day has the remainder of the competition
auditions (again at 17:00, admission free) and an evening
of film music with musicians on the jazz stage for many
years: Janusz Muniak and Wojciech Groborz (20:30). The
last day includes the final concert with competition laureates and the Rosario Giuliani Quartet (19:00). The grand
finale also features a summary of 35 years of jazz on the
Rotunda stage. Q Event starts at 17:00. Tickets 35-80z.
Available at the Rotunda box office (Open 10:00-19:00,
Sat, Sun depending on repertoire).
Football
New Years Eve
Wisa Krakow G-2, ul. Reymonta

22, tel. (+48) 12 623 95 95, www.
wisla.krakow.pl. Foreign fans are recommended to head for the pricey seats
in Sector E of the stand on ul. Reymonta
where you can expect to pay 45-55z.
Tickets and Fan Cards (Karta Kibica),
which are compulsory for Polish league
games, are available from the Fan Zone (Strefa Kibica)
next to stand D (Open 11:00-18:00, Sat, Sun 10:0014:00). Note you will need to have your passport or
driving licence with you to obtain a Fan Card, however
Fan Cards are not necessary for Europa League games.
Polish league matches during the lifetime of this guide
are below, though subject to change because of TV
schedules.
New Years Eve is known as Sylwester in Poland and

is one of the biggest days in the social calendar. Poles
will get dressed up to the nines and head to the citys
clubs, bars and restaurants for what often are themed,
ticket only events. Planning ahead can therefore save a
lot of hassle on the night and ensure that you get into
your venue choice.
December 04 - Widzew d
December 09 - Polonia Warszawa
December 14 - 21:05 Twente Enschede (Europa
League)
11.12 Sunday
Festival of Good Things
Chrismas Fair
B/C-3, Rynek Gwny, tel. (+48) 12 421 67 12. The
tradition of Christmas Fairs in Krakw was born before
WW2, returned to popularity in the 90s and is now one the
main tourist attractions of the Krakw winter season. This
year traders will be offering their wares in 50 stalls, there
will be 3 catering points and 4 barrels with mulled wine. On
offer is a wide range of Christmas goodies such as decorations, ceramics, jewellery, souvenirs, postcards, calendars,
artistic glass and clothes. At the weekend buy ham and so
on as well as other regional products that are a must on
Christmas tables in Poland. Unfortunately most of the stalls
will pack up after Boxing Day, but theres still a lot going on.
Just as important is the artistic programme. In addition to
the many daily concerts, on December 4th at 12:00 Santas
on motorbikes will arrive on the Rynek to give away gifts and
raise money for children in need. There will also be a parade
of the Three Wise men and carol singing on January 6th at
noon.QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Admission free.
New Years Eve

31.12 Saturday
New Years Eve at the Main Market Square

C-3, Main Market Square, www.wownight.eu. Krakw
has decided to save money this year and so there wont be
any big names performing. At 23:45 people are invited for a
firework show and best wishes from the the city president.
The big bangs will start at midnight with 200 kg of fireworks.
8th Krakw New Year Run

C-3, Rynek Gwny. There are two routes available
here: The Cheer ful Ten and The Dragon Five. The
numbers refer to the distances involved, but both
pass the Wawel dragon near Czerwisky Boulevard
and both start and finish at Rynek Gwny. There are
two kinds of competition: the first is for the first finish,
the second for the best costume. To sign up visit the
stalls on Rynek Gwny, open from 08:00 to 11:30.
The cost is 60z, quite a lot seeing as the main prize
for the the fastest runners over both distances are
200z and 500z for best costumes. Afterwards every
participant gets a hot meal and drink.Q Event starts
at 12:00. Admission free.
31.12 Saturday
CK Ruczaj, ul. Rostworowskiego 13 (Podgrze), tel.

(+48) 507 08 96 00, www.festiwalrzeczydobrych.pl.
Just what we need: a festival of good style and taste. Its
a fair of handicrafts, jewellery, cosmetics, books and other
good things. There are also workshops of ceramis, shows on
preparing coffee and tea, bread and cake tasting (now youre
talking), a fashion show, happenings and various presentations. Not finished your Christmas shopping - this could be
for you.QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Admission free.
Special Events
31.12 Saturday
Lazione musicale
Maks Michalczak/www.wisla.krakow.pl
Apparently they cost 150000z, a fair sized saving on the
1900000z the blew when Kelis came a year ago, tighten
that belt.QEvent starts at 23:45. Admission free.
31.12 Saturday
E-5, Krakw Chamber Opera, ul. Miodowa 15,

tel. (+48) 12 430 66 06, www.kok.art.pl. The
Chamber Opera gala includes Mozart, Donizetti,
Vivaldi and Strauss. There are opera arias, ballet
scenes, instrumental works and Pergolesis opera
buffa - La serva padrona.Q Event starts at 20:00.
Tickets 200z. Available at Chamber Operas box
office (Open 10:00 - 16:00, Sat, Sun depending on
repertoire).
31.12 Saturday - 01.01 Sunday
New Year Concerts

www.rotunda.pl. The two hot meals here include traditional
bigos, borsch and a glass of wine. Theres the obligatory
welcome drink and unlimited coffee to keep you going while
the DJ serves up the biggest hits from the charts and keeps
order during the many competitions that night. Expect lots of
students; its a student club and there are discounts if you
have the appropriate ID.QEvent starts at 20:00. Tickets
109/129z. Available at Rotundas box office (Open 10:0019:00, Sat, Sun depending on repertoire).
B-4, Krakw Philharmonic, ul. Zwierzyniecka 1,

tel. (+48) 12 429 13 45, www.filharmonia.krakow.pl. Something really special for jazz fans here
with respected jazz guitarist Jarosaw mietana, the
Wojciech Karolak Trio and the Krakw Philharmonic
Orchestra conducted by Pawe Przytocki serving
some jazz standards and the classic Ellington/
Strayhorns Nutcracker Suite. Q Concerts start
at 18:00. Tickets 100/130z. Available at Krakw
Philharmonic box office (Open 11:00 - 14:00, 15:00
- 19:00, Sat, Sun one hour before per formance.
Closed Mon).
31.12 Saturday - 01.01 Sunday
31.12 Saturday
New Years Night Fever
Tamerlane
New Year Concerts at the Opera
H-3, National Museum, Al. 3 Maja 1, tel. (+48) 12 295

55 00, www.muzeum.krakow.pl. The concert version of
Tamerlane will be staged twice in the National Opera hall by
Capella Cracoviensis. If like me you know that Tamerlane
was an Uzbek warlord, but thats about it, this could be for
you. A masterpiece from Handel, its orchestration was seen
as highly innovative when it first appeared. It also includes the
part of Tamerlanee rival Bajazet, one of the first great tenor
roles. Q Concert starts at 20:00 on Sat and at 18:00 on Sun.
Tickets 150/180z. Available at the Krakw Philharmonic box
office, B-4, ul. Zwierzyniecka 1 (Open 11:00 - 14:00, 15:00 19:00, Sat, Sun one hour before performance. Closed Mon).
E-2, Krakw Opera, ul. Lubicz 48, tel. (+48) 12 421

16 30, www.opera.krakow.pl. Two events at the opera
on the last day of the year. The first is the New Years
Concert, the second New Years Evening. Both include
performances by soloists of the Krakw opera stage,
the choir and orchestra of the Krakw Opera under
the baton of Tomasz Tokarczyk. Come and hear all the
biggest opera, operetta and musical hits. The evening
includes one of three menus.QConcerts start at 18:00
and 22:00. Tickets 60-250z. Available at Krakw
Operas box office (Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sun two hours
before the performance).
31
32
WHERE TO STAY
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hotel rates on
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and see what In Your Pocket with Hotelcalculator
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WHERE TO STAY
Accommodation at a Glance
SPLURGE
The Sheraton and the Grand both have suites that top
the 1000 per night mark, with the Presidential suite at
Hotel Staryand apartments of Palac Bonerowskialso
coming close. Feel like youre splurging without spending
so much by booking yourself and the missus into the
Komorowski Luxury Guest Rooms.
CHEAP
Greg & Tom are the most spacious, Nathans Villa the
most social and Goodbye Lenin the most kitsch - all
are good options. For centrally located budget lodging
that trades drunken backpackers for a proper bed and
some privacy, try Tournet or Basztowa Guestrooms.
Alternatively, visit the nightlife section for suggestions
on how to not sleep at all.
LADS
Pack mentality suggests you stop pissing around and
just book into the ever-hospitable Sheraton. However, if
you need to cut costs, look into the Ibis or stay central in
Campanile or Pod Wawelem. Or just make a reservation at the place you stayed in when your other buddy
got married last year. Wed suggest an apartment, but
we know youd destroy it.
FAMILIES
Why not put the fam in an apartment? In addition to
allowing everyone in your clan a bit more room to roam,
you can also squeeze as many offspring into the bed as
possible at no extra cost and the kids can be as loud as
they want without irritating anyone. Except you. There
are great values all over the Old Town, but our current
fave is Red Kurka.
Grdek D-3, ul. Na Grdku 4, tel. (+48) 12 431 90 30,

www.donimirski.com. The honeymoon choice. Brought to
you by the same team behind the Pugetw and Maltaski,
so the quality comes as no surprise. The interior, designed
by Swiss studio IKRL, is redolent of an aristocrats country
retreat, and the individually designed rooms come with
vases of flowers, bathrobes and a homely look that reeks
of romantic class. Adjacent to a Dominican convent, Grdek
offers an air of complete serenity and 5 star standards.
Q23 rooms (21 singles 410 - 630z, 18 doubles 470 - 690z,
2 apartments 640 - 920z). PTHAR6ULG
KDW hhhhh
Holiday Inn Krakow City Center D-4, ul. Wielopole 4, tel. (+48) 12 619 00 00, www.hik.krakow.
pl. Nothing short of top-level standards courtesy of the
Holiday Inn. Easy-on-the-eye navy blue colours, staff
who fuss over you and large rooms make this the reliable
choice one expects. For the best price check out their
web page which sports daily special offers. Q154 rooms
(114 singles 430 - 520z, 114 doubles 510 - 600z, 40
suites 590 - 760z). PTJHAR6UFLGK
hhhhh
Hotel Stary C-2, ul. Szczepaska 5, tel. (+48) 12
660 01 00, www.andelscracow.com. One of the first

things youll see when you step off the train is this ultramodern hotel designed by Jestico & Whiles, so there can be
no doubt about location. Full of odd curves, recessed floor
and wall lighting, Andels hosts a restaurant, bar, fitness
studio, sauna and massage services. Rooms feature LCD
TVs, CD and DVD players, in-house movies and light, bright
colours, while the rooftop terrace of the Andels apartment
is simply unbeatable. Q159 rooms (153 singles 75 - 240,
153 doubles 95 - 260, 6 apartments 350). PTY
HAR6UFGKDW hhhh
384 08 08, www.hotel.com.pl. A feast of opulence

awaits inside one of Polands top hotels. Gain entry via
a huge hardwood door that automatically swings open,
007-style. Occupying a former aristocratic residence
many of the original details have been retained alongside
chic touches such as a glass lift that zips guests to their
rooms. Accommodation comes with sumptuous rooms
filled with creature comforts and bathrooms fitted with
Italian marble. A subterranean pool open to all can be
found in the cellars, while perched on top of the hotel is
a recommended albeit seasonal rooftop bar with views
staring onto the main square. The class of Krakw, its
no surprise that the English national football squad will
be headquartering here during Euro 2012. Q53 rooms
(8 singles 680z, 34 doubles 765z, 4 suites 790z, 6
apartments 890 - 1900z, 1 Presidential Suite 1900z).
PTJHA6UFLGKDCW hhhhh
Copernicus C-5, ul. Kanonicza 16, tel. (+48) 12
Komorowski Luxury Guest Rooms C-1, ul. Duga
424 34 00, www.hotel.com.pl. Youve chosen well. Few

hotels in Central Europe can match the standard set by
Copernicus, and its a firm favourite of visiting dignitaries,
with former guests including George W. Bush. Tastefully
uncluttered the hotel is decorated with heavy woodwork,
marble, rich fabrics and wall frescoes - some dating from the
14th century. Enjoy rooftop terrace views of Wawel, gourmet
food or the fitness centre and swimming pool housed in
the medieval cellars. Q29 rooms (4 singles 680 - 800z,
17 doubles 780 - 980z, 8 suites 1000 - 2000z). Note that
prices may be negotiated. PTJHA6UFLG
KDCW hhhhh
7, tel. (+48) 505 98 93 71, www.komorowskikrakow.com. This honeymoon haven has all the hallmarks
to make it the perfect romantic getaway including kingsize beds, heated floors, 40-inch LCD televisions and
two-person Jacuzzis with jet massage - some rooms even
include tubs with water illumination and built-in stereos,
as an in-room waterfall tinkles nearby. (We couldnt find
the button that makes rose petals fall from the ceiling,
but were sure its there somewhere.) Tastefully designed
in Art Deco style, these immaculate rooms represent the
highest standards in Krakw, buoyed by the personal service of owners Jerry and Bart themselves. Located just
north of the main square on ul. Duga, you almost wish
they were further away so you wouldnt have to explain
why you havent left the room all weekend. Check the
website for details of their Romantic Getaway packages.
Q7 rooms (7 singles 359 - 719z, 7 doubles 359 - 719z).
Breakfast 20z. PALGW
Cream of the Crop

andels Hotel Cracow D-2, ul. Pawia 3, tel. (+48) 12
Grand C-2, ul. Sawkowska 5/7, tel. (+48) 12 424 08

00, www.grand.pl. Krakws first five-star hotel has long
been established as the citys most luxurious and has the
legendary guest list to prove it. Rooms and private suites
with original murals, coffered ceilings, stained glass windows,
ornamental fireplaces and ceremonious service create the

imperial ambiance the hotel has built its reputation on since
its 19th century stint as the Czartoryski Palace, while a business centre and fitness club add modern conveniences. Q64
rooms (55 singles 100 - 250, 45 doubles 110 - 280, 9
apartments 185 - 1500). PTJHAR6UFL
GKD hhhhh
Dreams
come true
Sheraton Krakow Hotel is ideally
located near Wawel Castle, on the
bank of Wisa River with amazing
views to both. It is just a 10-minute
walk from the famous Market Square
at the Old Town.
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300 delegates
sheraton.com/krakow
SHERATON KRAKOW HOTEL
ul. Powile 7
31-101 Krakw
t +48 12 662 1000
33
34
WHERE TO STAY
Disaster at Smolensk
Poland hit world headlines on April 10th 2010 when a
plane carrying President Lech Kaczyski, his wife and
ninety four other passengers crashed by the city of
Smolensk killing all on board. The plane clipped trees as
it came into land, before turning upside down and plunging to the ground. The president and his entourage had
been flying in to mark the 70th anniversary of the Katy
Massacre, a notorious episode in which Stalin ordered
the execution of approximately 22,000 Polish officers.
For decades Russia had denied responsibility, and only
recently had steps been taken to mend bridges.
Strangely, the tragedy served to bring these two ancient
foes closer together and many Poles, at the time, were left
impressed by the sympathetic reaction of Putin & Co. As
with all high profile disasters speculation as to the cause
continues to be rife. The official Russian air authority report
into the incident laid the blame squarely on the pilots who
they claim ignored instructions to land elsewhere because
of the poor weather conditions. They also suggested the
presence and distraction of unauthorized personnel in the
cockpit as the key to the tragedy. At first this had been
thought to have been the president himself a man who
once notoriously insisted his pilots fly against their judgement and land in war torn Tbilisi though black box evidence
now points to the intrusion at members of the entourage.
While Kaczyski had been widely forecast to lose heavily
in elections due for the autumn of 2010, the episode had
wider implications. Also on board were the first lady, the
head of the national bank, leading politicians and the heads
of the army, navy and air force; at a stroke Poland lost its
political, military and economic elite. Despite Kaczyskis
unpopularity the outpouring of grief was unmatched since
the death of Pope John Paul II, and churches packed out
as mourners paid their respects. In the capital thousands
lined the streets when the bodies of Mr and Mrs Kaczyski
were returned, and for the next week the streets outside
the Presidential Palace were turned into a giant shrine as
people converged to lay flowers and light candles on April
17th alone, over 100,000 mourners gathered in Pisudski
Square to listen to a state service.
But even in death Kaczyski remained a divisive and
controversial figure. The decision to bury him in Krakws
Wawel Cathedral, the ancient resting site of monarchs
and saints, split Poles down the middle, with many
protesting the decision with the slogan Warsaw for
Presidents, Krakw for Kings. Held on April 18th 2010
the funeral was marked with a service in Krakws St
Marys Cathedral, before the coffins were transported
with military escort to the crypt of Wawel.
Since then however President Kaczynskis twin brother
and his opposition party have openly accused the current
government of negligence and relations between Poland
and Russia have been strained by what the Poles see
as a total whitewash in the report of any Russian blame.
WHERE TO STAY
Niebieski Art Hotel & SPA H-3, ul. Flisacka 3, tel. (+48)
12 297 40 00, www.niebieski.com.pl. A relatively new fivestar hotel and spa on a quiet corner of the Wisa riverbank, the
Niebieski is designed to be environmentally sustainable and
energy efficient, with a harmonious holistic interior arrangement
that extends from the new Vanilla Spa throughout the entire
hotel. The spacious rooms feature wide, comfortable beds,
unique modern furnishings and soothing colours, and the third
floor apartments offer gorgeous views of the Wisa River and
Wawel Castle from their terraces. The philosophy of well-being
also applies to the Vanilla Sky on-site restaurant which serves
light fusion cuisine with only certified organic ingredients. There
is also a 3-star hotel directly next door owned by the same
people if youd rather keep some of your cash to spend in the
spa (singles 280z, doubles 320z). Q40 rooms (38 singles 390
- 520z, 38 doubles 450 - 580z, 2 apartments 900 - 1000z).
PTHA6UFGKDwW hhhhh
Radisson Blu B-4, ul. Straszewskiego 17, tel. (+48) 12

618 88 88, www.radissonblu.com. Located next to the
Filharmonia and the Planty, the Radisson is prime summer
location in the heart of Krakow. Few amenities are spared
and you can take advantage of free bike rentals, breakfast,
high-speed internet and even certain suites that allow smoking. Weekends can be quite busy in the summertime, so book
in advance and take advantage of the small fitness centre
and spa, as well as the various guided tours that are sponsored by and originate at the Radisson. Q196 rooms (148
singles 450 - 1012z, 148 doubles 450 - 1012z, 19 apartments 880 - 1450z, 29 Business Class Rooms 720 - 1170z).
PTJHAR6UFLGKDwW hhhhh
Sheraton Krakw A-5, ul. Powile 7, tel. (+48) 12

662 10 00, www.sheraton.com/krakow. The choice
of the stars. This is where the Dutch national football
team will set up camp during Euro 2012, though usually
its wealthy tourists and corporate travellers who bustle
through the glass-covered atrium in this sparkling five star
venture. Rooms come decorated with chequered scarlet
colour schemes and state-of-the-art amenities. Q232
rooms (224 singles 405 - 650z, 224 doubles 575 - 1255z,
7 suites 665 - 2240z, 1 Wawel Suite 3425 - 3965z). Tax
8%. PTHAR6UFLGKDCW hhhhh
The Bonerowski Palace (Paac Bonerowski) C-3,

Rynek Gwny 42/w. Jana 1, tel. (+48) 12 374 13 00,
www.palacbonerowski.pl. A masterpiece of a hotel occupying a historic property dating from the early 16th century
- King Jan Sobieski walked these corridors back in the 17th
century. Many of the original details have been retained and
restored, including gothic columns and medieval masonry and
rooms come beautifully appointed with voluptuous drapes
and elegant furnishings. Features of note include a sweeping
stairwell, chandelier hovering above, as well as the full range
of top-class services. Best of all rooms come with grandstand
views facing the main square, allowing you to do all your
holiday snaps from the comfort of your room. Q15 rooms (8
singles 540 - 950z, 8 doubles 590 - 1050z, 7 apartments
770 - 2300z). PTHA6UFGKDwW hhhhh
Upmarket
www.prezydent.pl
Amadeus D-3, ul. Mikoajska 20, tel. (+48) 12 429

60 70, www.hotel-amadeus.pl. A posh effort inspired
by the age of Mozart with antique furnishings paired with
state-of-the-art trimmings. Prince Charles once bedded down
here and this is one place which guarantees the memorable
stay that this historic city requires. Q22 rooms (20 singles
80 - 135, 20 doubles 90 - 145, 2 apartments 125 - 205).
PTYJHARUFGKD hhhh
NEW
BEST WESTERN Krakw Old Town C-4, ul. w.

Gertrudy 6, tel. (+48) 12 422 76 66, www.bwkrakow.
pl. The worlds biggest hotel chain is late to the party but
has finally made it into Krakws Old Town, modernising this
historic townhouse to meet the Best Western standard.
Whether you like the way they went about it is a matter of
taste we suppose, but note that most of the rooms have a
bold, avantgarde jazz theme; that means piano key design
motifs, wall-length close-ups of drum kits, show posters
and multi-coloured (thankfully adjustable) lighting that all
conspire to make the space look more like a jazz-themed
cocktail lounge than hotel. Room sizes range from cramped
to spacious, and some have a much more classic design, so
its worth selecting exactly where youll sleep before you get
your card out. On hand are also a bar, restaurant, conference
facilities and one of the only hotel parking lots in the Old Town.
19 triples 429z). PTHARUGKW hhh
BEST WESTERN PREMIER Krakow Hotel ul. Opolska 14a (Krowodrza), tel. (+48) 12 376 37 00, www.
bestwesternkrakow.pl. If youre thinking of staying in the
worlds largest hotel chain, then you probably know what to
expect. Well, hang on, this is the nicest BW weve ever seen.
Opened in 2008, this thoroughly modern, white-washed effort hardly looks like it was turned out by the cookie cutter;
with a strange red and white peacock feather pattern decorating the facade, thats evident straight-away. The rooms are
standard - free internet, LCD TVs, mini-fridge, safe, Picasso
reprint - and hotel services include laundry and 24 hour room
service in case you need a bottle of champagne at 3 am. A
swimming pool, sauna, business facilities and currency exchange are also available in this surprisingly high quality hotel
just north of the centre. Q169 rooms (165 singles 49 - 79,
165 doubles 58 - 89, 2 suites 120 - 200, 2 apartments
120 - 200). PTHAR6UGKDCW hhhh
Francuski C-2, ul. Pijarska 13, tel. (+48) 12 627 37
77. Since being purchased by famous restaurateur and TV
personality Adam Gessler, the Francuski is undergoing minor
renovations to the interior that will continue into 2012. That
doesnt stop this place from humming along however, as
gold-braided doormen and porters go about their business
and the ground floor Gessler restaurant stays packed around
the clock. A grand effort that oozes interwar elegance in a
surprisingly quiet location right near the Czarytorski Museum,
Francuski squeezes classic furniture into the rather tight
quarters. Beds are large and all rooms feature minibars,
internet access and trouser press. Best of all, breakfast and
dinner come included in the price of your stay. Q42 rooms (4
690 - 800z). PTJHAR6FGKW hhhh
Galaxy K-3, ul. Gsia 22a, tel. (+48) 12 342 81 00,

www.galaxyhotel.pl. Officially opened in September 2011,
this enormous, modern hotel on the banks of the Vistula
River offers a variety of rooms, including some specifically
designed for families and others for those with disabilities.
Oddly, the price of a standard room includes access to the
adjoining spas indoor swimming pool, fitness club and hot
tub free of charge, but wifi access is an additional 5 Euros a
day. As youll note from the stylish map in the centre of the
lobby, their location is well-placed for a walking-distance
journey across the river to Schindlers Factory and the
neighbouring Museum of Contemporary Art, and generally
more ideal for exploring Podgrze and Kazimierz than the Old
Town. Q205 rooms (200 singles 60 - 145, 200 doubles
75 - 165, 50 triples 100 - 190, 5 suites 135 - 185).
PTHAR6UFGKDCwW hhhh
35
36
WHERE TO STAY
Cemeteries
Cemeteries hold an important place in Polish culture, in
large part due to the countrys strong Roman Catholic
roots and perhaps to a lesser degree owing to the
peoples proclivous leanings towards that which has
come to pass. Whatever the case, visitors will find
a very special atmosphere when entering a Polish
cemetery. Visiting the graves of the departed is an
important ritual in Polish culture, so important that
everyone in the country gets an off day on November
1st (All Saints Day) to do just that. However, most families visit the cemetery with much greater frequency,
making sure that the graves are clean and well-kept,
placing fresh flowers and candles and displaying a
truly touching regard for their forebears. Perhaps not
the most light-hearted idea of an outing, but Krakws
cemeteries are places of beauty, tranquillity, art and
history and well worth a visit. Cemeteries located in
Kazimierz and Podgrze are listed in their respective
sections.
Military Cemetery K-1, ul. Prandoty. Across from

Rackowicki is Krakws Military Cemetery, opened
in 1920 to retire the remains of fallen Polish WWI
soldiers and their families. At the entrance youll find a
forever-flowered and candlelit monument to the Pope,
remembering his visits here to visit the graves of his
parents. Close by is a monument to members of the
Home Army (Armia Krajowa), as well as several other
military monuments remembering the victims of Katyn
and WWII, many of whom are also buried within. There is
even a British section of the cemetery with the remains
of 552 WWII soldiers, pilots and POWs collected from
all over PL, as well as German and Soviet plots. Worth
visiting for a look at the monumental sculpture art.
QOpen 07:00 - 18:00.
Rakowicki Cemetery J-1, ul. Rakowicka 26.

Up until the end of the 18th century, all of Krakws
churches had their own cemeteries - a rather unsanitary situation which didnt change until the opening of
Rakowicki Cemetery (named after the village it was
located near) and the first burial here in 1803. The
largest and most important of Krakws cemeteries,
today Rakowicki covers 42 hectares and is full of fine
examples of sepulchral art, as well as impressive monuments to PLs 20th century struggles. Some of the most
important artists, politicians and statesmen in Poland
are buried here including painter Jan Matejko, actress
Helena Modrzejewska and theatre visionary Tadeusz
Kantor. Turn left after entering the main gate to see
the oldest section of the cemetery with graves from
the first half of the 19th century. Also worth seeking
out is Section LXIX - The Alley of the Distinguished. A
pantheon of Polish contemporary culture, here youll
spy the resting places of Piotr Skrzynecki - founder of
the Piwnica Pod Baranami cabaret - and musician and
poet Marek Grechuta. QOpen 07:00 - 18:00.
Salwator Cemetery G-3, Al. Waszyngtona 1. On

the hillside ascent up ul. w. Bronisawy en route to
Kociuszko Mound, this small, charming cemetery is
located in one of Krakws most picturesque districts,
is full of fine sacral art and offers fine views of the citycentre and surrounding valleys. See if you can find the
grave of famous sci-fi author Stanisaw Lem, interred
here in 2006. Q Open from 07:00 till dusk.
WHERE TO STAY
Hilton Garden Inn Krakw I-4, ul. Marii Konopnickiej
33, tel. (+48) 12 399 90 00, www.hgi.com. This newest luxury hotel on the banks of the Wisa has more to offer
than just spectacular views of the river and Wawel. The first
Hilton Garden Inn to open in Poland, the brand is designed
to tame the tension of demanding businesspeople. Rooms
come with large workspaces, a separate living area with a
pull-out sofa, ergonomic chairs designed to relax your back
and fully-adjustable beds. Arguably the most comfortable
hotel room youve ever stayed in, a 24-hour business centre,
fitness centre, conference facilities, bar and 2 restaurants
are also on hand. Q154 rooms (147 singles 260 - 577z,
147 doubles 299 - 616z, 7 apartments 334 - 776z).
PTHARUFGKW hhhh
Hotel Kossak A-5, Pl. Kossaka 1, tel. (+48) 12

379 59 00, www.hotelkossak.pl. The team behind the
highly-lauded Senacki Hotel have added a star for their latest
effort near the Wisa riverbank, which opened in 2009. 60
elegant, well-appointed rooms with flatscreen TVs, wifi and
adjustable air conditioning - more than two-thirds of which
overlook Wawel Castle - are at your disposal, as well as a
large conference centre with state of the art audio-visual
equipment and a classy 7th floor restaurant ideal for receptions and daydreaming from the terrace. Q60 rooms (55
600 - 900z). PTHAR6UFGKDW hhhh
Hotel Unicus C-2, ul. w. Marka 20, tel. (+48) 12

433 71 11, www.hotelunicus.pl. Nice choice. Located a
short walk from the train station and right on a corner of the
royal route its difficult to feel like youre staying anywhere
other than the heart of the city. Modern convenience in an
elegant old building, the dapper rooms include everything
youd expect from a new upmarket hotel and guests can enjoy
the use of a fitness room and sauna, as well as conference
facilities and a stylish restaurant with a lauded chef (Rafa
Targosz) calling shots behind the scenes. Q35 rooms (35
900z). PTHARFLGKDW hhhh
Matejko D-1, Pl. Matejki 8, tel. (+48) 12 422 47 37,

www.matejkohotel.pl. A grand effort inside a fully restored
tenement building near the Barbican. Swish, spacious rooms
come with rich colours and modern trappings offering a fine
balance between past and present: wifi and satellite TV in
each and the doubles even come with proper beds. The
restaurant is full of stained glass, theres a beer garden in
summer and a full set of business facilities to boot. Q48
rooms (45 singles 260z, 42 doubles 320z, 3 apartments
500z). PTHAR6UGKD hhh
Novotel Krakw Bronowice F-2, ul. Armii Krajowej

11, tel. (+48) 12 622 64 00, www.accorhotels.com.
Not the best location around, nor does it look like Prince
Charmings palace from the outside, however this big functional box hotel has undergone major renovations to make it
more comfortable than ever. The rooms have changed little
as they were already some of the largest in town and would
seem even more spacious if the beds werent so big; with
over 300 of them, this is still one of Krakws larger hotels,
and as such primed for large conferences and tour groups
casting a glance at the higher end of the hotel market. The
restaurant has expanded and the lobby has been turned into
a lounge with books and the daily foreign press to peruse.
Start the day with a few lengths in the swimming pool, and
finish it with late night cocktails in their bar. You can also rent
a bike from reception. Q305 rooms (304 singles 189 - 309z,
304 doubles 189 - 309z, 1 apartments 374 - 659z). Breakfast 54z. POTHAR6UGKDCW hhhh
Novotel Krakw Centrum H-3, ul. Kociuszki 5, tel.

(+48) 12 299 29 00, www.accorhotels.com. Decorated with pastel colours the Novotel Centrum offers all
the comforts youd associate with a big brand name. The
hotel includes air-conditioning from top-to-bottom, sauna,
one of Krakws few hotel pools and facilities fully geared
towards the disabled. The upper floors feature views
overlooking Wawel Castle. Q198 rooms (192 singles
275 - 485z, 192 doubles 275 - 485z, 6 apartments 610
- 865z). Breakfast 65z. PTHAR6UFGK
DCwW hhhh
Pod R (Under the Rose) C-3, ul. Floriaska 14,
tel. (+48) 12 424 33 00, www.hotel.com.pl. A beautifully
restored historic hotel, and formerly the stamping ground of
Tsar Aleksander I and Franz Liszt. Recent renovations have
done nothing to disturb the character and rooms come with
state-of-the-art facilities, Persian rugs and important looking antiques. Reputed to be the oldest hotel in Krakw, the
Latin inscription above Pod Ras Renaissance doorway
reads May this building stand until an ant drinks the
ocean, and a tortoise circles the earth. So far, so good.
7 apartments 850 - 1600z). PTJHA6UFG
KDW hhhh
Polski Pod Biaym Orem C-2, ul. Pijarska 17, tel.
(+48) 12 422 11 44, www.podorlem.com.pl. Fabulously
located between the Czartoryski Museum and Floriaska
Gate, this incredible hotel offers views of the only surviving
section of the citys medieval defensive walls. One of the
oldest hotels in town, the White Eagle has been operating
as an inn since 1815; after becoming state property under
communism it was returned to the Czartoryski family (yes,
they of the famous art collection and Da Vinci painting next
door) and is today again one of Krakws most exquisite, yet
overlooked accommodation options. Rather than blending
the modern with the antique, the White Eagle has stayed in
character going 19th century all the way; rooms are full of
original frescoes and architectural details while providing all
the expected amenities. Q57 rooms (28 singles 297 - 335z,
21 doubles 370 - 545z, 5 triples 450 - 635z, 3 suites 655 745z). PTJHA6UGW hhh
Pugetw D-4, ul. Starowilna 15a, tel. (+48) 12

432 49 50, www.donimirski.com. At last Krakw can
boast the attractive, boutique hotel that it deserves. No
expense has been spared creating this intimate spot and
your accommodation comes with embroidered bathrobes
and some 200 television channels to veg in front of. Rooms
come with their own unique design, and names like Conrad
and Bonaparte. Our favourite, the Kwiatkowski apartment,
features oil paintings, bone china and soft cream fabrics.
Treat yourself. Q6 rooms (2 singles 250 - 450z, 1 doubles
410 - 490z, 1 triples 440 - 590z, 2 apartments 550 - 640z).
PTHAR6LGW hhh
Qubus Hotel Krakw J-4, ul. Nadwilaska 6, tel.

(+48) 12 374 51 00, www.qubushotel.com. A cool design
includes an eye-catching wall that juts out at an angle from
the hotels faade. Air-conditioned rooms come furnished to
high standards and feature 26 inch televisions, broadband
internet as well as an ironing board to help with keeping up
appearances. Unsurprisingly theres a heavy business slant
to this hotel, with nine conference rooms to pick from, while
for after-work moments take timeout in the fitness centre complete with top floor swimming pool with views stretching
over central Krakw. Q194 rooms (183 singles 67 - 112,
170 doubles 84 - 187, 10 suites 97 - 163, 1 apartments
203). PTHAR6UFGKDCW hhhh
Czesaw Miosz
Czesaw Miosz (1911-2004) has come to be regarded
as the finest Polish writer of the 20th century, his work
influencing generations of natives and foreigners alike.
Born in what is now Lithuania, Milosz opted to study law
at uni, though the course was to prove a bit of a thorn in
his backside a fear of statistics saw him flunk numerous
exams, before finally graduating in 1934. He published
his first collection of poetry that same year, and in 1937
took a position at a Vilnius radio station. It was to prove
a disastrous union and he was fired for his lefty views.
He took another job in radio in Warsaw, though was out
of town on holiday when the outbreak of WWII was announced. The next few years saw him lead a transient
existence from escaping the clutches of the Red Army
in Lithuania, to seeking refuge in Romania, to working as a
janitor in wartime Warsaw. With the war over Milosz moved
to Krakow, taking up digs on ul. Krupnicza 22 (A-2). After
that his story takes on a bit of a murky look. Depending
on which source you believe he either relocated to Paris as
a cultural attach, or was sent to Washington, in a similar
role. Either way by 1970 he was a US citizen as well as a
lecturer at Berkeley, and in 1978 he received the Neustadt
International Prize for Literature. More success followed
and two years later he was awarded the Nobel Prize for
Literature. Milosz returned to Poland after the fall of the
Iron Curtain, splitting his time between Krakw and the
US. He died in 2004 and is buried in the crypt of Krakows
Skalka Church (C-7). His best known work remains his
1953 masterpiece The Captive Mind, a challenging tome
which investigates the intellectual psyche.
37
38
WHERE TO STAY
WHERE TO STAY
Queen Boutique Hotel D-5, ul. Dietla 60, tel. (+48)
Three star Ascot Hotel offers its

guests modern, functional rooms
and an intimate, comfortable atmosphere in the very centre of Krakow.
Your Hotel
in the heart of Krakow
ASCOT HOTEL
12 433 33 33, www.queenhotel.pl. Excellent choice.

This modern, well-designed hotel in white, black and
creamy beige features spacious rooms with large beds,
lots of natural light, and heated floors in the bathrooms.
The real highlight, however, isnt the size of the windows,
but whats outside them. With some doubles sporting
balcony views of Wawel Castle and the gardens of St.
Pauls monastery, youll be shocked that youre in the very
centre of town with all those trees and greenery on view.
Enjoy the Amarylis restaurant in the atmospheric cellar
or the spa facilities on site. Q31 rooms (30 singles 300
- 760z, 30 doubles 440 - 800z, 4 triples 480 - 860z,
1 apartments 400 - 860z). Breakfast 40z. PTH
R6ULGKwW hhhh
Rezydent C-3, ul. Grodzka 9, tel. (+48) 12 429 54

10, www.rezydent.krakow.pl. Outstanding quality found
behind a medieval faade. Suites are decorated in contemporary fashion, while the doubles and singles come with
vaulted ceilings and original stencil-work. Also featuring
a massage studio where hotel guests receive a discount,
youll find it on the main pedestrian street linking the square
and Wawel. Q59 rooms (32 singles 85 - 94, 39 doubles
115 - 120, 6 triples 142 - 150, 6 apartments 135 - 140).
TJA6UGKW hhh
Rubinstein E-6, ul. Szeroka 12, tel. (+48) 12 384 00

00, www.rubinstein.pl. Its no longer possible to refer to
Kazimierz as Krakws upcoming district. Kazimierz has
well and truly arrived, and this place is the proof. In keeping
with the spirit of the area rooms in the Rubinstein come with
elegant carved wood finishes, luxurious rugs and antique
details. Some feature restored timber ceilings, and all are
treated to modern finishes that include gleaming bathrooms,
air conditioning and digital TV. Situated right in the thick
of the tourist trail, so expect a host of sights right on your
doorstep. Q28 rooms (23 singles 380 - 430z, 19 doubles
440 - 540z, 5 suites 800 - 1500z). PTHARU
FLGKDW hhhh
Senacki C-4, ul. Grodzka 51, tel. (+48) 12 422 76
86, www.hotelsenacki.pl. A beautiful historic building
is the setting for this high-standard hotel. Well-appointed
rooms include easy colour schemes and great views of old
Krakw from this great location between the market square
and Wawel along the royal route. From January Senacki
will be closed one month for renovations, reopening
in February. Q20 rooms (20 singles 250 - 500z, 16
doubles 300 - 550z, 2 suites 400 - 700z). PTA
R6ULGW hhh
31 026 Krakw,
ul. Radziwiowska 3
Phone +48 12 384 06 06,
+48 12 384 06 66
Fax +48 12 384 06 07
e-mail: rezerwacja@hotelascot.pl,
recepcja@hotelascot.pl
Sympozjum ul. Kobierzyska 47 (Podgrze), tel.

(+48) 12 261 86 00, www.sympozjum.com.pl. A
smart hotel with different colour schemes on each floor.
Polite service and soft rock music greets you in the
lobby, while the basement houses meeting rooms and
a swimming pool. Bedrooms are large, quiet and fitted
with soft carpets and good minibars. However the plush
Krysztaowe Spa may be the best reason to book into
this rather fine hotel in the tweenlands where Dbniki
and Podgrze meet. Q80 rooms (75 singles 85, 75
doubles 105, 5 apartments 157). PTHAR
6UGKDCw hhhh
www.hotelascot.pl
Wentzl C-3, Rynek Gwny 19, tel. (+48) 12 430 26 64,
www.wentzl.pl. A world-class hotel with the best views in

the city. The rooms come decked in rich fabrics, hand-woven
rugs, beautiful carpentry work and original artwork. The staff
will do anything, within the realms of decency, to ensure a
smooth stay: from booking opera tickets to reserving flights.

And dont for a minute think this is an antiquated type of
hotel. While it drips with class youll also find state-of-the-art
accessories with in-room home cinema, fancy coffee machines and Playstation 2s available Q18 rooms (18 singles
140 - 179, 18 doubles 140 - 179, 8 triples 170 - 209).
PTJA6LGKW hhhh
Mid-range
Abel E-6, ul. Jzefa 30, tel. (+48) 12 411 87 36,
www.hotelabel.pl. A charismatic hotel with eccentric art
and assorted bric-a-brac in a lobby that also comes with
piles of tourism pamphlets to peruse. The warm welcome
supplied by the receptionists is similar to the ones found
in family-run enterprises, and the set of wooden stairs
leads guests to rooms primly furnished with modern fittings and light colours. One of the best deals in the area.
Q14 rooms (3 singles 100z, 8 doubles 150z, 3 triples
180z). A6GW
Alef C-6, ul. w. Agnieszki 5, tel. (+48) 12 424 31

31, www.alef.pl. Immerse yourself in Jewish Kazimierz
by booking a room above the eccentric and enchanting Alef
restaurant. Rooms are small and nothing special, including
private bathrooms, small wall-mounted TVs, a phone and
little else to make you prefer spending time in your room over
the cafes, bars and restaurants littering the neighbourhood.
A bit pricey in our opinion, but at least theres a lift and the
location doesnt get much better. Q43 rooms (39 singles
160z, 34 doubles 240z, 2 triples 290z, 4 apartments
290z). HA6GKW hhh
Amber B-2, ul. Garbarska 10, tel. (+48) 12 421 06

06, www.hotel-amber.pl. Set across two floors and a loft
the Amber combines pleasing cream and caramel colours
to compliment the light and modern interiors. Rooms offer
satellite TV and internet access, as well as generous duvets
in which to sink inside. Found down a quiet street just minutes
from all the action. Q18 rooms (3 singles 319z, 15 doubles
399z, 8 triples 499z). PTHAR6UFGKDW
hhh
Ascot Hotel E-3, ul. Radziwiowska 3, tel. (+48)
12 384 06 06, www.hotelascot.pl. A modern front
shields a sharply designed hotel that includes reprints of
classic works by Tamara Lempicka in the lobby, and free
internet access inside each room. Smartly appointed
rooms come with reddish carpets and bouncy beds,
while the shining white bathrooms also include hairdryers - not always a given in Poland. Q49 rooms (49 singles
75, 36 doubles 90, 7 triples 105, 2 quads 120).
PTHA6ULGW hhh
Astoria D-6, ul. Jzefa 24, tel. (+48) 12 432 50

10, www.astoriahotel.pl. Good value in a great location comfortably around the corner from the bohemian
debauchery of Plac Nowy, Astoria is a top choice for those
intent on exploring the old Jewish Quarter and being part of
the neighbourhood. The rooms are comfortably-sized with
suites and family studios also available; all are equipped
with air conditioning, internet, satellite TV and some dusty
old contraption called a radio. Park your car in their guarded
underground lot and hit the sauna after a hard day of lazing
about cafes and beer gardens. The new Polish-Spanish
restaurant Saragossa offers hotel guests a 20% discount
and a renovation of the rooms will soon be complete. Q33
rooms (31 singles 180 - 230z, 29 doubles 210 - 250z, 6
triples 260 - 290z, 5 quads 300 - 350z, 2 apartments
390 - 450z). PTHAR6UFGKDW hhh
Kazimierz Puaski
A Polish and American military hero, Kazimierz Puaski (Casimir Pulaski in English) is almost ubiquitously immortalised
on monuments and place names in both countries, but
especially in America where some major cities celebrate
Casimir Pulaski Day as an official bank holiday. Despite
the high-profile patronymic, Kazimierz Puaski himself has
been largely forgotten in both countries, his legacy enduring
in Poland as the mustachioed portrait on bottles of Warka
beer (the brewery located near his birthplace in Winiary) and
in Chicago suburbs as a day when the garbageman inexplicably doesnt come. In fact, ask someone on the streets of
Chicago what they know about Pulaski and yourre likely to
get, Pulaski? Thats where the Walgreens is right? Right.
Wellwhile we cant sit here and claim to be the scribes
of national consciousness, we can at least give you a brief
account of who the man was.
Born March 4th, 1745 in Winiary to Polish nobility, Puaski
was educated in Warsaw and then served as page to a
vassal of the Polish King in the Duchy of Courland. The
Duchy (in present day Latvia) was occupied by Russia and
the nobility expelled in 1763. As Russia forced the Polish
parliament to pass resolutions of complicity weakening the
power of the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth in 1767-68,
Puaski joined his father Jzef and other nobles in founding
the Bar Confederation a military association opposing the
capitulating home government, dedicated to defending the
Commonwealth from Russian aggression. Quickly becoming
one of the Confederations best commanders, Puaski was
eventually besieged in Berdyczw (northern Ukraine today)
and after a valiant two-week defense he was captured by the
Russians, but foolishly set free after falsely pledging not to
return to the cause. Despite the arrest and death of his father,
Puaski continued to fight the Russians for four more years
in what is commonly regarded as the First Polish Uprising.
In 1769, he incited another revolt against the Russians near
Vilnius, and successfully defended the monastery in Jasna
Gra in 1770. The heroic legacy of the Bar Confederation
was soon to change, however, when a mysterious Puaskiendorsed kidnapping of the King resulted in the intervention
of Austria and Prussia and the partitioning of Poland in 1773.
The Confederation was condemned and disbanded and
Puaski fled the country with a bounty on his head.
Turning up in France, Puaski was recruited by Benjamin
Franklin and LaFayette to take his freedom-fighting skills
to America. During his first engagement in the Battle of
Brandywine, Puaski led a successful charge against the
British and saved the life of General George Washington,
for which he received the rank of Brigadier General of the
American Cavalry. His challenging personality and poor
command of English soon forced him to resign the position,
but he quickly formed an independent cavalry core the
legendary Pulaski Cavalry Legion. Driving the British from
Charleston, South Carolina in February 1779, the Pulaski
Legion turned south to assault the British in the Siege
of Savannah, Georgia. Here Puaski was struck in the
groin with grapeshot while leading a courageous charge.
Taken aboard a brigadier vessel, Puaski died two days
later. Though eyewitnesses claimed he was dishonourably buried at sea, unknown remains believed to belong to
Puaski were discovered beneath the Puaski monument in
Savannahs Monterey Square. In addition to the bazillions
of monuments, forts, ships, cities and streets that bear his
name, in 2007, Congress posthoumously made Puaski an
Honourary Citizen of the United States only the seventh
person to be so honoured. When asked to sign the bill,
President Bush reportedly muttered, Wait, who is this guy?
39
40
WHERE TO STAY
WHERE TO STAY
Atrium C-1, ul. Krzywa 7, tel. (+48) 12 430 02 03,
A peaceful and intimate hotel in the centre of

Krakow's Kazimierz district located in the
renovated interior of a 19th century building.
Comfortable rooms including
bathroom/shower, satellite TV, radio,
telephone and Internet access. We also have
an in-house restaurant.
www.hotelatrium.com.pl. Clean, spacious rooms furnished in a subtle, Scandinavian fashion. The well-equipped
conference room can fit up to 80 people and apartments are
equipped with kitchenettes, living room and two beds. Q52
rooms (42 singles 74, 39 doubles 90, 8 triples 105, 2
apartments 130). PHAULGKW hhh
Benefis A-6, ul. Barska 2, tel. (+48) 12 252 07 10,

www.hotelbenefis.pl. A decent deal with bright, sunny
rooms that reflect the age of the hotel - brand new. Of note
is the top floor apartment, complete with slanted skylight
and a separate lounge area. Q20 rooms (12 singles 230
- 300z, 12 doubles 250 - 300z, 8 suites 300z). PTA
R6UG hhh
Campanile D-3, ul. w. Tomasza 34, tel. (+48) 12

424 26 00, www.campanile.com. The bright rooms come
decorated in the Campanile flagship colours of cream and
green, and feature satellite TV and bathtubs. Ask for one of
the top-floor quarters that overlook the surrounding Planty
Park. Q106 rooms (105 singles 199 - 309z, 105 doubles
199 - 309z, 43 triples 279 - 389z, 1 apartments 480z).
Breakfast 35z. PTJHA6UGW hh
Chopin Cracow K-2, ul. Przy Rondzie 2, tel. (+48)
Ul. Kupa 15, 31-057 Krakw,
Tel: +48 12 430 66 97, +48 12 430 67 00,
Fax: +48 12 430 67 26
e-mail: hotel@karmel.com.pl
www.karmel.com.pl
Jagiellonian University
It might be hard to believe but the young reprobates you
see staggering out of Krakws student bars actually
represent Polands educational elite. Krakws Jagiellonian
is rated Polands best university, as well as one of the oldest in Europe in Central Europe only Pragues Charles
University predates it. Its story begins in 1364: following
years of pleading, King Kazimierz finally persuaded the
groovily titled Pope Urban V to grant permission to establish
a seat of higher learning. Three years later the school bell
was ringing in the lessons, namely philosophy, law and
medicine. Originally named the Studium Generale the uni
started to flourish the following century when maths and
astrology were introduced, and it was around this time when
youd have been able to spot Nicolas Copernicus founder
of modern day astronomy hurrying to lectures. Renamed
Jagiellonian in 1817 the university survived the partitioning
of Poland and continued to prosper; in 1883 professors Olszewski and Wrblewski became the first to liquefy oxygen
and nitrogen from air, while the brainbox Cybulski got to the
bottom of what adrenalin was all about. The Nazi invasion,
however, heralded the end of Jagiellonians golden age. On
November 6, 1939 the Germans lured over 100 professors
and lecturers to the campus, before arresting and imprisoning them many were to die in the death camps. Following
the war the college played its part in the anti-totalitarian
protests of the 60s and 80s, and nowadays the university
has recovered well from the hardships of the last century.
Attended by over 44,000 students youll find the bulk of
the universitys buildings occupying the south west of the
Old Town. To learn more about it dont miss a visit to the
University Museum at Collegium Maius (see Museums).
12 299 00 00, www.chopinhotel.com. A modern building offering clean-cut, functional accommodation and a
western attitude to service. Free wireless internet access
for guests, as well as regular promotions to keep an eye out
for. Recent renovations have seen all the rooms upgraded.
Q219 rooms (219 singles 59 - 74, 219 doubles 69 - 84).
PTHAR6UFLGKDW hhh
Classic D-3, ul. w. Tomasza 32, tel. (+48) 12 424 03

03, www.hotel-classic.pl. The work of a Danish architect,
Classic combines clean lines and sleek furnishings with an
exterior that slots in neatly with the surrounding Old Town.
All rooms come with satellite TV, internet connection and airconditioning. Q30 rooms (25 singles 75 - 110, 25 doubles
85 - 120, 3 triples 95 - 135, 5 apartments 135 - 160).
PTJAR6ULGW hhh
Eden E-6, ul. Ciemna 15, tel. (+48) 12 430 65 65, www.
hoteleden.pl. A modern Kazimierz hotel that caters to all,
but keeps Jewish guests in mind, with fragments of the Torah
on the doors, Krakws only truly kosher restaurant, original
paintings of Kazimierz life, and the only mikveh (Jewish
ritual bath house) in Poland. On top of that they also boast
a salt cave to regenerate your body and spirit. Q27 rooms
(25 singles 180 - 250z, 21 doubles 250 - 330z, 5 triples
330 - 420z, 2 apartments 410 - 450z). THA6UG
KDW hhh
Express by Holiday Inn ul. Opolska 14 (Krowodrza),

tel. (+48) 12 614 57 00, www.krakowexpress.pl. Boasting some of the most comfortable beds in the city, as well
as what surely rates as the longest corridor (105 metres),
all rooms are equipped with internet access, cheerful blue
colours and cable TV. Q181 rooms (181 singles 169 - 300z,
181 doubles 169 - 300z). PTHA6UGKW hhh
Floryan C-2, ul. Floriaska 38, tel. (+48) 12 431 14
18, www.floryan.com.pl. A very good choice. If youre not
travelling lightly then the singles and doubles can appear
cramped, but the apartments are positively huge. 90s chic
prevails with spotless parquet floors, lots of colour and IKEAstyle vases and lamps dotted around. Q21 rooms (21 singles
250 - 350z, 21 doubles 320 - 430z, 8 triples 500 - 580z, 3
quads 560 - 640z). PTHA6GKW hhh
Fortuna A-3, ul. Czapskich 5, tel. (+48) 12 422 31 43,

www.hotel-fortuna.com.pl. A pleasant hotel inside a 19th
century tenement building, across the street from a palace
owned by the National Museum (which is also nearby). At
Fortuna you can expect beaming faces behind the reception
desk, while upstairs the spacious freshly-renovated rooms
feature wifi and satellite TV and are well soundproofed from
the trams that roll by outside. A sound choice. Q25 rooms
(18 singles 240z, 15 doubles 330z, 5 triples 390z, 2 apartments 390z). THAR6ULGW hhh
Fortuna Bis A-3, ul. Pisudskiego 25, tel. (+48) 12 430

10 25, www.hotel-fortunabis.pl. A welcoming hotel with
a charming green, gated courtyard and wraparound balcony
festooned with flowerpots and shrubs. Rooms have a comfortable, homey atmosphere and come with free internet, and
guests get a 10% discount in the rustic restaurant serving
local specialties. Make use of the guarded parking and find
most of the citys attractions within easy walking distance.
Get in touch to negotiate prices. Q23 rooms (6 singles 230z,
14 doubles 300z, 2 triples 350z, 1 apartments 350z).
THAR6ULGKW hhh
Hotel David E-6, ul. Ciemna 13, tel. +48 12 619 24

70, www.hoteldavid.pl. Situated in the dead center of
Krakows Jewish Quarter Hotel David really cant be beat as
far as location. It is comparatively small, but certainly cosy
and people friendly. The rooms (and lobby) have a simple
classic style, but are equipped with all the modern amenities such as air-conditioning and a full buffet breakfast. If
youre looking to stay in the Jewish Quarter in style, without
breaking the bank, Hotel David may do the trick. Q21
rooms (8 singles 220 - 260z, 14 doubles 250 - 360z).
PTHA6ULGKW hhh
Hotel Kazimierz D-6, ul. Miodowa 16, tel. (+48) 12

421 66 29, www.hk.com.pl. Beautiful stained glass
windows inside the restaurant fill this hotel with an upscale
ambiance. Upstairs simple, modern rooms meet three-star
standards, generally have at least one sloping wall, and come
with spongy wallpaper you cant keep your fingers off. Q39
rooms (39 singles 140z, 29 doubles 180z, 2 triples 220z).
PTHA6GW hhh
Ibis Krakw Centrum A-5, ul. Syrokomli 2, tel. (+48)
12 299 33 00, www.accorhotels.com. You know what to
expect with the Ibis brand. While not an adventurous choice
the guys behind the French chain show an unflagging commitment to maintaining international standards and high-grade
service. Spotless furnishings and a central location add to
the appeal and rooms have recently been fully renovated.
Q175 rooms (175 singles 189 - 339z, 175 doubles 189 339z). Breakfast 29z. PTJA6ULGKW hh
Jordan C-1, ul. Duga 9, tel. (+48) 12 430 02 92, www.

jordan.pl. Rooms are compact and straight-forward affairs
and although not state-of-the-art, facilities have a newish feel
about them. The glass elevator is a nice touch, and the hotel
is walking distance from the train station. Q19 rooms (15
singles 150z, 15 doubles 250z, 10 triples 330z, 1 quads
400z). TJHARGW
Karmel E-6, ul. Kupa 15, tel. (+48) 12 430 67 00,
www.karmel.com.pl. Smack bang in the middle of the
action, this classic Kazimierz three-star gem may not offer
the most spacious rooms in the city but what it lacks in
square metres it more than makes up for with other things.
Friendly and genuinely helpful staff oversee everything
nicely, plonking chocolates on pillows and providing teaDecember 2011 - January 2012
41
42
WHERE TO STAY
WHERE TO STAY
and coffee-making facilities in all the rooms. Theres free
wireless internet too, and a decentish cold buffet breakfast
served in the downstairs restaurant. Q11 rooms (4 singles
230 - 260z, 6 doubles 270 - 398z, 1 suites 400 - 520z).
PTHAR6GKW hhh
Klezmer Hois E-6, ul. Szeroka 6, tel. (+48) 12 411 12 45,

www.klezmer.pl. A former mikveh (Jewish ritual bath house)
has been converted into a spacious hotel with pleasant staff
and sometimes very large rooms. The bathhouse in the cellar
is now an occasional theatre. Q10 rooms (7 singles 43 - 52,
7 doubles 56 - 65, 3 apartments 92). THA6GK
Maltaski B-4, ul. Straszewskiego 14, tel. (+48) 12
431 00 10, www.donimirski.com. Enter the lobby, replete
with chequered tiles and fireplace, and youll get a preview
of the class that lies behind the faade. Rooms come with
fluffy robes on the beds, cream colour schemes and classic
furnishings. Business service on offer include conference
facilities, translation services and organizing temporary office space. Q16 rooms (16 singles 370 - 530z, 13 doubles
430 - 590z). PTHAR6ULGW hhh
Mikoaj D-3, ul. Mikoajska 30, tel. (+48) 12 429 58

08, www.hotelmikolaj.pl. A renovated townhouse with an
Old Town location close to the Planty Park. On a relatively
quiet side street, your nights rest is in little danger of being
disturbed by leery stag parties fighting over kebabs. Rooms
come with a simple, modern-chic design, with suites containing a kitchenette and lounge room. Also featuring the smart
Czary in-house restaurant set over 2-levels including the
atmospheric cellar. Q11 rooms (9 singles 160 - 290z, 9
doubles 220 - 380z, 5 triples 260 - 450z, 2 apartments
300 - 570z). PTHA6GKW
Old Time I-1, ul. Szlak 33, tel. (+48) 12 423 47 90,
As a unique 3-star hotel located in a quiet part of Cracow

just 5km from the Market Square, we offer silence and
comfort to our many guests. Our hotel restaurant serves
delicious Polish and continental cuisine, while our guests
also have the use of an outdoor barbecue grill. We also
offer a sauna and tanning bed.
Ul. Ruczaj 44, 30-409 Krakw

tel. +48 12 269 10 00, fax +48 12 269 20 30
e-mail: ruczaj@ruczajhotel.pl
www.ruczajhotel.pl
www.oldtimehotel.pl. Old Time Hotel is an ornate classic. Walking through the lobby is a lot like walking through
a display of Faberge Eggs: its beautiful, but youre terrified
you might break something priceless. The styling is oldfashioned, but the amenities are all modern and the service
is excellent. Its close enough to the center to be about a
ten-minute walk to the Rynek, but far enough to avoid the
commercial pitfalls and tourist traps around the Old Town,
and lets you sit back and have yourself a grand old time.
Q24 rooms (24 singles 199z, 20 doubles 259z, 13 triples
329z, 13 quads 389z). PTHAR6UG hhh
Park Inn by Radisson A-7, ul. Monte Cassino 2, tel.

(+48) 12 375 55 55, www.parkinn.com. One of Europes
fastest-growing hotel companies, Rezidor has plonked a
modern colossus across the Wisa from Kazimierz, which must
be eyeing the interlopers simple, modern curves and colour
scheme slightly dubiously. This mid-ranger in Dbniki features
a fitness room and wellness centre, impressive business facilities, a bar and grill restaurant, lots of parking and an additional
152 kitted-out rooms in Park Inns signature colours: looks
a bit like a Twister mat, but conjures fond memories. Q152
rooms (152 singles 100 - 160, 152 doubles 100 - 160).
PTHAR6UFLGKDW hhhh
Pod Wawelem B-5, Pl. Na Groblach 22, tel. (+48) 12

426 26 25, www.hotelpodwawelem.pl. A small hotel with
a futuristic look and a location that stands in the shadow
of Wawel Castle. Smart rooms come in pale lemon colours
with internet access and BBC available to veg in front of the
television. Find modern bathrooms attached to each room,
and a sharply designed restaurant on the ground floor. Q48
rooms (47 singles 229z, 41 doubles 259z, 1 apartments
339z). PTHAR6UGKD hhh
Pollera D-3, ul. Szpitalna 30, tel. (+48) 12 422 10

44, www.pollera.com.pl. A beautiful stained-glass
window by Stanisaw Wyspianski over the staircase is the
first thing to catch the eye. The bathrooms and furnishings are old but functional and the rooms are otherwise
fully equipped. You might not get all new amenities, but
you do get 175-year-old tradition. Q42 rooms (31 singles
150 - 199z, 24 doubles 250 - 299z, 7 triples 270 360z, 2 quads 350 - 390z, 2 apartments 300 - 395z).
PTJHA6GW hhh
Polonia D-2, ul. Basztowa 25, tel. (+48) 12 422 12
33, www.hotel-polonia.com.pl. Operating since 1917
this grand corner structure catches the eye the moment you
leave the train station. Guests are greeted with a multi-lingual
welcome and awesome lobby, while suites come decorated in
a mock 19th century style that help evoke Krakws golden
years. Q61 rooms (43 singles 205 - 295z, 32 doubles 245
- 360z, 15 triples 308 - 429z, 3 apartments 430 - 526z).
TJHA6GKW hhh
Royal C-5, ul. w. Gertrudy 26-29, tel. (+48) 12 421
35 00, www.royal.com.pl. This utterly charming hotel
in an art nouveau turn of the century building gives you
an experience you could only have in Krakow, and thats
a statement many pricier hotels cant make. Authentic
in every way - from the reception area with a canopied
desk, glass phone booth and wonder ful secessionist
staircase, to the spacious rooms fitted with pre-war
furnishings, carpets and wallpapers - as Royals facilities
have recently been modernised (now garnering 3 stars)
the style has stayed exactly as it was a hundred years
ago. The unbeatable location directly faces Wawel castle
from the confines of Planty Park, and the ground floor
bar/cafe and Pod Wawelem restaurant are just more
reasons to recommend this romantic old world hotel. Its
where we would stay in Krakow if we didnt already live
here. Q99 rooms (33 singles 230 - 360z, 32 doubles
330 - 495z, 9 triples 430 - 595z, 12 quads 530 - 695z,
10 suites 410 - 715z, 3 apar tments 595 - 880z).
PTJHA6UGKW hhh
Ruczaj G-5, ul. Ruczaj 44, tel. (+48) 12 269 10 00,

www.ruczajhotel.com.pl. Set in a new but classically stylish building in a residential area, the Ruczaj is a lovely hotel
for those willing to taxi into town. Some rooms boast unique
balconies while all rooms come furnished with an individual
touch. Q45 rooms (25 singles 150 - 180z, 17 doubles
210 - 260z, 12 triples 270 - 340z, 4 quads 330 - 420z, 4
suites 300 - 350z). PTHAR6UKDW hhh
Saski C-2, ul. Sawkowska 3, tel. (+48) 12 421 42

22, www.hotelsaski.com.pl. A classic hotel with big plant
pots, tall windows and rococo-style cabinets and sofas in
each room. The hundred-year-old lift which inches its way
to the top can always be relied on for some brief moments
of entertainment. The Metropolitan restaurant, right next
door, serves the best breakfast in Krakw. Q60 rooms (42
singles 190 - 235z, 35 doubles 210 - 300z, 5 triples 340z,
11 suites 410z). TJHA6W hhh
Tango House B&B C-3, ul. Szpitalna 4, tel. (+48) 12

429 31 14, www.tangohouse.pl. A beautiful boutique
effort set inside a 16th century tenement. A colourfully
painted 100-year-old staircase leads you to wood-floored
rooms decorated with sunflowers and warming colours,
while the flick of a switch allows guests to listen to tango
tunes throughout the day. Q8 rooms (8 singles 159 - 260z,
8 doubles 199 - 340z, 2 triples 345 - 420z, 2 quads 450
- 500z). AGW
Witkacy
Eccentric, flamboyant and tragic, Stanisaw Ignacy Witkiewicz - remembered as Witkacy (1885-1939) was one
of Polands premier avant-garde icons. A prolific playwright,
painter and photographer, the Warsaw-born, Zakopanereared weirdo was at the forefront of Polish abstract art.
The mysterious suicide of his fianc in 1914 (whom he was
accused of butchering) compelled him to seek solace in Australasia where he became involved in scientific expeditions.
On hearing of the outbreak of war he returned to fight for an
elite Tsarist unit. Serving with distinction against the Germans
he was wounded, and returned to Poland to continue his
descent into the depression that was to dominate his life.
As he plunged into heavy spells of morphine, cocaine and
peyote abuse his paintings became all the more inspired.
Twisted portraits of his high-society friends (heads springing
from penises, beastly animal shapes flying in the background)
became his trademark. He experimented with all forms of modern art, started his own theatre company in Zakopane (an hour
south of Krakw) and expanded on his philosophical theories.
A rabid anti-communist, Witkacy was hell-bent on proving
that an individuals aims would always be different from
that of society and state. When the Red Army crossed into
Poland on October 17, 1939, sensing the end of civilisation,
he shot himself. Originally buried in a far-flung corner of
the Ukraine, Witkacys body was returned to Zakopane
in 1988. But in a scene that wouldnt have been amiss
in one of his satires, it eventually emerged that bungling
officials had buried the wrong corpse the subject at the
centre of the excellent Polish film Mystyfikacja (available
with English subtitles). Visitors to Krakw can see a large
collection Witkacys wacked-out paintings on the top floor
of the National Museum (H-3, Al. 3 Maja 1).
43
44
WHERE TO STAY
WHERE TO STAY
Wawel C-4, ul. Poselska 22, tel. (+48) 12 424 13 00,

www.hotelwawel.pl. Already one of the top mid-range
offers in the city centre, Wawel was the beneficiary of a
recent renovation, making it even more of a steal. Set
inside a historic townhouse, some of the 19th century
secessionist touches have survived, including the glass
roof of the entrance and iron balustrade of the stairwell.
A magnificent muralled courtyard will have you wishing it
was summer all year round, while the fabulous mosaicked
wellness centre will have you not caring to step outside
at all. Q39 rooms (29 singles 180 - 330z, 29 doubles
350 - 460z, 1 apartments 600z). PTJHARG
KDW hhh
Budget
Wielopole D - 4, ul. Wielopole 3, tel. (+48) 12 422

14 75, www.wielopole.pl. An incredibly good deal
found three minutes from the Old Town. Simple, spotless and recommended, this hotel features a matey
welcome in reception, and large rooms decked out in
soft browns. Q35 rooms (9 singles 199 - 318z, 27
doubles 199 - 438z, 6 triples 299 - 538z). PTA
R6ULGKW hhh
Art-Mont C-1, ul. Krowoderska 27, tel. (+48) 12 429
Wyspiaski D -3, ul. Westerplatte 15, tel. (+48)

12 422 95 66, www.hotel-wyspianski.pl. While the
blockish faade doesnt promise much, the Wyspiaski
is well worth every one of its three stars. Rooms have
been thoroughly modernised and feature rather natty
patterned duvets, private bathrooms and televisions.
The gleaming coaches regularly parked outside testify
to its popularity amongst tour groups. Q231 rooms
(150 singles 44 - 91, 109 doubles 50 - 101, 81
triples 76 - 135). OTYHAR6ULGKW
hhh
Cybulskiego Guest-rooms A-3, ul. Cybulskiego 6,
Alf L- 4, ul. Klimeckiego 24, tel. (+48) 12 656

19 42, www.hotelalf.pl. A good deal for travellers
looking for value and prepared to be a little away from
the old town centre. Per fectly located i f the upcoming
Podgorze and the Schindler stor y are your priority
with the old town easily accessible by a 15 minute
tram ride from the Klimeckiego stop to the main train
station on tram N o. 20. Q116 rooms (36 singles
100 - 145z, 58 doubles 140 - 200z, 12 triples 190
- 245z, 12 suites 70 - 220z, 1 apartments 300z).
THA6UGKW hh
17 78, www.art-mont.com. Found in a quiet and interesting part of town alive with colourful shops just north
of the Old Town, the clean if somewhat sparse rooms are
packed with pine furniture and little else. Some bathrooms
are shared and others are en suite, a couple of rooms
have their own kitchens and internet access is available
to all. A good budget option for people in town to make the
most of the sights who dont need the amenities offered
by a hotel. Q14 rooms (14 singles 70 - 150z, 14 doubles
110 - 170z, 8 triples 160 - 220z, 5 quads 240 - 260z, 1
apartments 240 - 260z). Breakfast 12z. TR6GW
Basztowa Guest Rooms D-2, ul. Basztowa 24, tel.

(+48) 12 429 51 81, www.hotelsinkrakow.pl. Neat
rooms between the train station and market square feature
parquet floors and a classic design accentuated by the use
of dark woods and oil paintings. Q26 rooms (22 singles
150 - 195z, 22 doubles 150 - 195z, 4 triples 195 - 260z).
Breakfast 27z. JA6G
tel. (+48) 12 423 05 32, www.freerooms.pl. Famous

for once claiming to have cattle in their rooms, Cybulskiego
have upgraded their accommodation and now offer small,
pleasant apartments armed with kitchenettes (with kettle),
bathrooms and parquet floors. Q20 rooms (20 singles
90 - 140z, 20 doubles 130 - 170z, 8 triples 160 - 190z).
THA6LGW
Etap Krakw Bronowice F-2, Al. Armii Krajowej

11a, tel. (+48) 12 626 11 45, www.accorhotels.
com. Some distance from the city centre this place - like
all Etap hotels - offers terrific value for money. The tiny
little rooms pack a powerful punch and have comfy beds,
televisions, enormous windows and impressive bathrooms
(with shower, no bath). For what you pay you get a hell of a
lot; recommended. Q120 rooms (120 singles 139 - 145z,
120 doubles 139 - 145z, 16 triples 139 - 145z). Breakfast
20z. PTA6UGW h
Kadetus A-4, ul. Zwierzyniecka 25, tel. (+48) 12 422
36 17, www.kadetus.com. What was a hostel has now
morphed into a smart budget hotel offering new fixtures and
fittings and a slick design. Internet access, laundry and fully
stocked kitchen are all at your mercy and your host, Simon,
can organize everything from pub crawls to paintballing. Q18
rooms (15 singles 85 - 210z, 15 doubles 105 - 230z, 15
triples 135 - 260z, 3 quads 155 - 300z). TJA6GW
Panorama I-5, ul. Lipiskiego 3/1, tel. (+48) 12 260
64 01, www.hotel-panorama.pl. Occupying the bottom
floors of a high-apartment block, the Panoramas panorama
may not be what you expect. Rooms are stark and basic, but
also clean and modern. The curtains are ineffective against a
bright dawn. Q19 rooms (4 singles 150z, 10 doubles 190z,
5 triples 250z, 1 suites 300z). THA6UGDW hh
Quality System - Hotel Krakw ul. Conrada 35

(Bronowice), tel. (+48) 12 290 80 00, www.systemhotels.pl. A stark modern exterior, not too different from
the structures found in retail parks, is the home of the best
deal in Krakw. Youll probably find yourself taking a taxi to
town, but at these prices youll find plenty of loose change
to play with. The lobby comes in startling orange shades,
with PC terminals allowing guests free internet use, while
rooms come with a few-frills design that nonetheless looks
modern and includes TV, telephone and shower. Q106
rooms (106 singles 150 - 206z, 101 doubles 174 - 233z).
THA6UGKW hhh
Rubens J-4, ul. Rejtana 5, tel. (+48) 12 423 58 34,

www.hotel-rubens.pl. Youll find the Rubens perched just
across Most Pisudskiego in a restored property dating
from 1910. Wood floored rooms have a touch of the old
world about them and include patterned rugs, paintings
and flowers, while at the same time touting modern day
necessities such as internet access and TV. Q10 rooms
(1 singles 120z, 5 doubles 179z, 3 triples 220z, 1 quads
280z). TAR6GKW
Start H-5, ul. Kapelanka 60, tel. (+48) 12 269 22

10, www.hotelstart.com.pl. Start offers clean, comfortable and very affordable accommodation a 10-minute taxi
ride away from the city centre. TV and en-suite bathrooms
throughout as well as on-site conference facilities and
restaurant are available. Breakfast 15z in high season,
but included for free from November to March. Q66 rooms
(42 singles 120 - 140z, 42 doubles 140 - 160z, 14 triples
180 - 200z, 9 quads 220z, 2 apartments 315 - 415z).
THA6UGKW hh
The Maluch
Like the Czech koda and
the East German Trabant,
the Polish Maluch has
served several purposes
during its lifetime; a Godsend for families behind
the Iron Curtain, source of
amusement for smirking
Christophe Gruszka
foreigners and now, as a
cult icon for nostalgists. Through the years Polish exports
have won world acclaim, from expertly cut glass to dangerously delicious vodka, so this flimsy tin deathtrap on wheels
is something of an unlikely hero of Polish engineering.
Manufactured between 1973 and 2000 in Bielsko-Biaa and
Tychy, the car was produced under the Italian Fiat license
with its official title being the Polish Fiat 126p. Its diminutive
size earned it the moniker of Maluch (Little One), a name so
widely used that the manufacturers officially re-christened
the brand in 1997. When first produced in June 1973 it was
priced at 69,000z (approximately three times the average
annual wage), and became the first popular family car in Poland, despite being the size of a small refrigerator. Throughout communist times the car could only be purchased by
joining a lengthy waiting list, though diligent workers would
often be rewarded with special vouchers allowing them to
jump the queue. Though production came to a halt in 2000,
the surprisingly reliable cars have achieved a remarkable
staying power, and youll still find scores of them coughing
smoke as they zip around Polish cities. Today a used Maluch
retails for about 300-500z, so theres little stopping you
from becoming a proud owner yourself.
45
46
WHERE TO STAY
Tournet D-6, ul. Miodowa 7, tel. (+48) 12 292 00 88,
www.accommodation.krakow.pl. Excellent pension-style
accommodation in the heart of the Kazimierz quarter. Rooms
come with clean bathrooms, colourful duvets and effective
heating. The more expensive rooms have TVs and huge
double beds, while all have a kettle and alarm clock. Also find
an in-house restaurant - Czarny Kocio (The Black Cauldron) downstairs. Q18 rooms (17 singles 100 - 150z, 16 doubles
140 - 200z, 10 triples 200 - 250z). THA6GKW
Apartments
Hotels are just so passe, you know? Honestly, the market in
Krakw is ideal for short-term apartment stay and the city is
littered with literally hundreds of them, many in outstandingly
central centuries-old locations. Not only does staying in an
apartment afford you more privacy, space and comfort, it
also helps you feel less like a tourist and more like part of
the neighbourhood. Best of all, in most cases, apartment
rental actually represents a better value for your money than
a traditional hotel stay. If youre travelling in a group, with the
family or even just your spouse, we recommend looking into
apartment rental when considering accommodation options
in Krakw; below weve listed some of the best.
AAA Krakw Apartments C-3, Rynek Gwny 11, tel.

(+48) 12 346 46 69, www.krakow-apartments.biz. All AAA
properties are located in superb Old Town buildings, and all are
a triumph of interior design over space. What were once gloomy
apartments have been transformed into wonderful, bright living
spaces that ooze simple style. Q24 rooms (24 apartments 160
- 630z). No breakfast served. PTJAGW
Antique Apartments B-2, Plac Szczepaski 2, tel.

(+48) 12 430 21 67, www.antiqueapartments.com. A
company offering a whole host of apartments throughout
Krakow with all mod-cons, good standards and lots of nice
local touches such as ceramic stoves. Look out for those
apartments located in a building a stones throw from the
main market square. Q38 rooms (38 apartments 180 520z). Breakfast 24z. PTA6GKW
Apartmenthouse Grodzka C-3, ul. Grodzka 4, tel.

(+48) 12 421 48 35, www.grodzka.net.pl. Top-rate
accommodation with facilities that include fridge, LAN and
cable TV. The interiors are a tasteful mix of old and new:
original brickwork and timber touches combined with chic
designer furnishings. Q11 rooms (11 apartments 200 490z). Breakfast 25z. TAR6GW
Apartments Cracow C-2, ul. Floriaska 39, tel. (+48)

12 431 00 26, www.apartmentcracow.com. Several
locations around the historic centre - including Floriaska and
Grodzka - with accommodation fitting up to six people. Take a
look at these prices, they are basically unbeatable. All apartments come with fully fitted kitchens, satellite TV and internet
access, and rooms come with a pleasant modern aesthetic. Airport pick-up can also be arranged. Q30 rooms (30 apartments
120 - 400z). Breakfast 16z. TJA6ULGKW
Apartments ORLOWSKA TOWNHOUSE C-2, ul.
Sawkowska 26, tel. (+48) 12 429 54 45, www.orlowskatownhouse.com. Six high class apartments fitted with hand
woven rugs over stripped wood floors, luxurious carved wood beds
and deep pillows. Dark wood antiques and views of old Krakw
complete your immersion into this regal city. It should come as
no surprise the owners behind this operation are the same team
behind one of Krakws finest dining experiences, Cyrano de
Bergerac, in which guests will receive a 10% discount. Q6 rooms (6
apartments 90 - 175). Breakfast 6. PTHR6LGKW
WHERE TO STAY
B&B La Fontaine C-3, ul. Sawkowska 1, tel. (+48)
12 422 65 64, www.bblafontaine.com. These high
standard apartments right in the heart of the city come
furnished in a chic, modern style decorated with relaxing
scarlet and white colours. All have microwave ovens,
air-conditioning, hairdryers and high-speed internet connection, however the hike up to the third floor may not
suit all guests. Q7 rooms (7 apartments 365 - 519z).
PTA6FGKW
Cracow Lofts D-6, ul. Boego Ciaa 7, tel. (+48)
608 26 04 05, www.cracowlofts.com. If youre looking
for something a little more Brooklyn than typically Polish,
contact these guys. Small but sharp lofted apartments
and studios are available in great locations, particularly
Kazimierz. Their limited number ensures extra care and better service, including itinerary help, airport pick-up, and you
can even rent a retro bike to complement your Brooklynite
living space. Booking available through the website. Q11
rooms (11 apartments 80 - 160z). No breakfast served.
PTAR6W
Golden Lion Apartments B-3, ul. Szewska 19, tel.
(+48) 12 422 93 23, www.goldenlion.pl. A set of attractively furnished rooms catering for groups of up to five
people. Rooms come in soft brown shades, some furnished
with a couple of period flourishes and a kitchenette. A shared
kitchen and dining room is also available for the independent
cook. Laundry service is available, and checkout times can
be negotiated. Q11 rooms (11 apartments 200 - 350z).
PTA6GW
Kazimierzs Secret Apartments E-6, ul. Jzefa 34,
tel. (+48) 693 12 48 14, www.kazimierzs-secret.com.
Situated on the upper floors of a 19th century Kazimierz
tenement building, there are ten apartments to pick from,
all decorated in their own unique style. Choose from the
clean, light coloured loft apartment named American
Dream or the Deutsch Apartment which sleeps six and
includes French windows looking onto a courtyard and
a scattering of traditional German keepsakes. Dont let
the homely style fool you, all accommodation is equipped
with modern kitchens, high speed internet access and CD
players should you be travelling with your music collection.
Q10 rooms (10 apartments 170 - 380z). No breakfast
served. TAR6W
Krakow City Apartments D-2, ul. Szpitalna 34, tel.
Red Brick D-1, ul. Kurniki 3, tel. (+48) 12 628 66

00, www.redbrick.pl. Named after the renovated 19th
century red brick building that houses this magnificent set
of apartments. These are superb lodgings and in spite of
the historical surrounds accommodation touts all the trappings of the modern world; from 32 inch televisions to fully
fitted modern kitchens. Those looking to splash out should
consider booking the two level apartment, equipped to host
as many as seven people. The customer is king here and Red
Brick can provide transport to and from the airport, as well as
shopping services so all that you need is already sitting on
the shelves upon your arrival. Q16 rooms (16 apartments
260 - 460z). Breakfast 25z. TAR6GKW
Red Kurka C-4, ul. w. Gertrudy 5, tel. (+48) 535

91 91 35, www.redkurka.com. Consider us impressed;
these three apartments quietly tucked in the courtyard of
a conveniently-located old residence near the Planty are
probably the coolest places to crash in town. Designed
by local graphic artist Marcin Kubiak (well done, sir), the
apartments feature lots of bold colours and pop art without being heavy-handed, while serving as an exhibition
of 20th century Polish product design. For its funky red
radish theme, our favourite has to be apartment B, able to
accommodate up to 6 for 140 Euro. All apartments include
a washing machine, stove, oven (a rarity), wifi and satellite
TV. Recommended. Q3 rooms (3 apartments 320 - 560z).
Breakfast 25z. T6GW
Sleeping in Krakw C-2, ul. Sawkowska 4/9, tel.
(+48) 504 23 59 25, www.krakowapartments.info.

Lodge inside a 100-year-old Old Town building with rooms
overlooking a courtyard, guaranteeing a good nights rest.
Lift access means theres no lugging bags up stairs, and
apartments come with modern furnishings, living room and
kitchen. Most can handle four guests, with one apartment
sleeping up to six guests. Q12 rooms (12 apartments 170
- 420z). No breakfast served. TAR6GW
(+48) 601 29 22 92, www.sleepinginkrakow.com.

This might possibly be the best private apartment in the
city. This enormous two-bedroom property is right in the
city centre and comes with a great optional extra, what they
call the full-fridge option. Yes, for an extra fee they will fill up
the chiller with tons of goodies. Brilliant. They have also 2
apartments at ul. Jana 13/10 and 13/20 and another at ul.
Dunajewskiego 4. Q7 rooms (7 apartments 139 - 450z). No
breakfast served. PTA6GW
Off White Business & Leisure Apartments E-6,
Th e S e c r e t G a r d e n A p a r t m e n t s C -7, u l .
ul. Kupa 6, tel. (+48) 12 376 40 40, www.offwhite.

pl. This new apartment building in Kazimierz offers modern
minimalist suites and studios for the iPod generation, available for short or long-term stays. With eight apartments over
four floors, the top two levels are occupied by the superb
penthouse with a fireplace, skylights and a private entrance
with its own elevator. Aptly named, these suites dont dare
wander off the greyscale, so be careful your wardrobe doesnt
embarrass you by ruining the uber-chic aesthetic. Also keep
an eye out for the Olive Tree restaurant downstairs which
serves Kosher food. Q9 rooms (9 apartments 56 - 100).
PTAR6GKW
Skawiska 15, tel. (+48) 12 430 54 45, www.thesecretgarden.pl. From the ones who brought a touch of
upscale to the hostel market, Secret Garden Apartments
offers mid-range rates in one of the unlikeliest best spots
in Krakow. Somehow Skawiska street is not noticeable.
A street dominated by nicely renovated apartments and
a newer medical centre, its mostly quiet and well placed
for a visitor. Five or so minutes from Plac Nowy, 15 from
the centre and just two minutes to a beautiful view from
the wall overlooking the Vistula River. The pathways
there lead straight to Wawel Castle. The apartment is
comfortably decorated and breakfast can be had at the
main hostel a few doors down, which helps get you up

and moving toward a day in Kazimierz. Also at (E-6) ul.
Szeroka 29 and (D-6) ul.Jzefa 6. Q3 rooms (3 apartments 130 - 350z). TA6W
Venetian House C-3, Rynek Gwny 11, tel. (+48)

12 346 46 69, www.venetian-house.com. If you want
to keep your finger on the pulse of Krakw, you cant do
any better than staying spot on Rynek Gwny - the cultural
heart of the entire country. The only apartment hotel located
on the main market square, Venetian House offers 15 fourstar quality apartments at prices that have rather shocked
the competition. Modern and elegant, yet simply furnished,
all apartments come fully equipped with air con-, cable TV
and wifi, and 8 offer views overlooking the largest market
square in Europe. Q15 rooms (15 apartments 160 - 630z).
No breakfast served. PTJAGW
Airport Hotels
Morawica Morawica 285, tel. (+48) 12 285
58 00, www.motell.pl. Morawica is close to Balice
Airport and has easy access to Katowice and Krakw
highways. Clean, modern rooms and extras such as
sauna, restaurant, petrol station and car wash. Q32
rooms (32 singles 120z, 32 doubles 160z). Breakfast
18z. PTHA6UGKDW hhh
Neohotel Airport ul. Topolowa 12, Rzska, tel.

(+48) 12 626 06 88, www.neohotel.pl. 3km from
the airport, this conveniently located layover hotel has
a bit more going for it. More closely resembling a house
than a high-rise immediately lends it that apt home-awayhome cliche and the small, tastefully modern rooms feel
fresh-pressed and uncreased. With more apartments
and suites than single rooms, its a little unclear why
you and your pals would want to get so comfortable so
far from Krakw, but if youve got a reason, take it here.
9 suites 199 - 320z, 1 apartments 370z). Breakfast
20z. PTAR6GW
Pod Kamykiem ul. Balicka 51, Rzska, tel. (+48)

12 636 17 48, www.podkamykiem.pl. If youve got
an early morning flight then a night at Pod Kamykiem
is well worth considering. Three kilometers from the
airport, this is everything youd expect from a Krakowian pension: a huge suburban house with clean rooms
furnished in a plain, prim style. Q10 rooms (10 singles
150 - 200z, 10 doubles 200 - 280z, 10 triples 260 320z). TAR6GW hh
47
48
WHERE TO STAY
Hostels & Dorms
It used to be a day couldnt go by without a new hostel
opening in Krakw, and our guess is the numbers peaked
somewhere near 70 in the summer of 2006. Though many
have closed doors since, more continue to open and there is
certainly no shortage of beds for the prospective backpacker
in Krakw, with the quality and value of hostels in the city
being incredibly high. That said, the best are routinely booked
full months in advance, so if you just turn up without a bunk
during high season youll almost certainly find one, but it
might not be located quite where youd prefer (ie, above your
favourite nightclub). While we dont have space here to list
every cot in Cracow, below weve included the best of the
bunch. Sleep it off.
Basia Hostel E-7, Bulwar Kurlandzki, tel. (+48) 12

346 14 12, www.barkabasia.pl. A magnificent idea for
a hostel, Basia is a fairly large boat complete with a yearround bar and a restaurant in warm months for the ultimate
low budget accommodation experience. Theres six double
rooms on board, communal bathrooms, free wireless internet, free bedding and a television in the common room
should you need it. Luxury it isnt, but if youre looking for a
wacky bedtime experience youll find Basia pretty hard to
beat. Q6 rooms (6 singles 70 - 80z, 6 doubles 80 - 100z).
Breakfast 10z. AGW
City Hostel D-3, ul. w. Krzya 21, tel. (+48) 12

426 18 15, www.cityhostel.pl. The biggest hostel in
Krakw, just minutes from both the Rynek and train station, so expect it to be swamped with large groups. Rooms
run from well-maintained private doubles to eleven bed
dorms, and each come with ensuite bathrooms; all still
WHERE TO STAY
in sparkling shape. This is one of the few hostels in town
equipped to handle disabled guests, and other bonuses
include free lockers and free breakfast for early birds.
2 triples 160 - 225z, 2 quads 240 - 280z, 21 Dorm beds
40 - 50z). A6GW
Flamingo Hostel B-3, ul. Szewska 4, tel. (+48) 12

422 00 00, www.flamingo-hostel.com. Consistently
ranked as one of the best hostels, not only in Krakw but
the world, Flamingo builds its reputation on the friendliness
of the staff and their willingness to give guests personal
tours of the citys seedy nightlife, much of which takes place
directly across the street. Small, colourful and comfortable
with a nice common area, rooms range in size from doubles
to ten bed dormitories and the facilities on offer include free
internet use, laundry and kitchen. Q21 rooms (10 singles
120 - 180z, 10 doubles 120 - 180z, 47 Dorm beds 39 65z). AGKW
Good Bye Lenin J-3, ul. Joselewicza 23, tel. (+48) 12
421 20 30, www.goodbyelenin.pl. Socialist realist posters hang from the walls inside this original commie-themed
hostel, and the common room even touts a vintage TV from
the 50s. Dorms come with wooden bunk beds, and sleep
no more than ten maximum, the free breakfast is more
generous than most, theres an internet room available,
and if you let them, the owners will probably buy you shots
all night in the downstairs bar. If fully booked try their second
location in the Old Town (C-3, ul. Grodzka 34), and consider
a visit to their Zakopane location across from Tatra National
Park. Q14 rooms (4 doubles 120 - 140z, 62 Dorm beds
29 - 55z). AGW
Greg & Tom D-2, ul. Pawia 12/7, tel. (+48) 12 422
41 00, www.gregtomhostel.com. A top hostel offering
internet and DVD player, as well as hostel standards such
as free laundry, kitchen and linen. Aside from a guaranteed
warm welcome, the biggest boon here is a refusal to pack
rooms out with as many beds as possible, making it ideal
for travelling couples. Clean, modern furnishings, this is
as chic as hostelling gets. Note that there is an age(ist)
policy of only accepting 18-60s. Also a second location
at ul. Zyblikiewicza 9 (D-3). Q8 rooms (3 singles 150z, 3
doubles 150z, 3 triples 200z, 23 Dorm beds 57 - 62z).
AGW
Mamas C-3, ul. Bracka 4, tel. (+48) 12 429 59 40,

www.mamashostel.com.pl. This 15th century building
formerly housed a cinema and a photo gallery and Ania, the
propreitor, has gone to pains to preserve this artsy legacy.
A recent facelift has made this legendary flophouse fell
fresh again while sporting comfortable furniture and sepia
photographs in the common room, and a small balcony
that overlooks the busy courtyard. Sunny dorms come with
heavy pine beds certified to hold individuals weighing up to
300 pounds. Q7 rooms (1 doubles 160z, 52 Dorm beds
40 - 50z). AGW
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Momotown D-6, ul. Miodowa 28, tel. (+48) 12 429

69 29, www.momotownhostel.com. The outside wall
of this budget (yes, even by hostel standards) hostel is
the first thing that will catch your eye: weird graffiti such
as Jeanette, the best a man can get clearly aimed at the
drunken student niche. Inside expect standard dorm rooms,
decent bathrooms and friendly, multi-lingual staff who have
clearly been trained to explain every rule and regulation
to every customer. No lockout or curfew and although
checkout is at 12, you can leave your bags. Youll find the
reception and dorm beds at Miodowa Street while and the
private are situated close by on Szeroka. Q21 rooms (10

singles 120z, 10 doubles 160z, 2 triples 210z, 52 Dorm
beds 35 - 50z). AGW
Mundo D-4, ul. Sarego 10, tel. (+48) 12 422 61 13, www.
mundohostel.eu. With one of the highest overall standards in
town, Mundo was ranked one of the top 10 hostels in the world
in 2007. Ideal for couples on a tight budget looking for privacy
amidst a social environment, the emphasis here is on double
rooms rather than dorms, as youll find few of the latter and eight
of the former: six with proper double beds, though only one with
a private bathroom. All the rooms are minimally decorated in a
style associated with various countries as diverse as Tibet, Hawaii and Russia. Located in a quiet location between the Planty
and Kazimierz, there is a relaxing patio, a large common room,
kitchen area and bar, while other advantages include internet
and free breakfast. Q12 rooms (9 singles 100z, 9 doubles
140 - 160z, 16 Dorm beds 40 - 50z). AGW
Nathans Villa Hostel C-6, ul. w. Agnieszki 1, tel.

(+48) 12 422 35 45, www.nathansvilla.com. Krakws
original hostel. Thereve been a million copycats since, but
none do it better. Thats partly down to Nathan, a man who
takes the happiness of his guests seriously - even if it that
means drinking till dawn with them. Theres a bit of a reputation for revelry here, and youll find the party in the basement
where a network of chambers house a bar, billiards room and
even a mini-cinema. But this is more than just a hedonists
hostel, as proven by the top-notch conditions of dorms and
bathrooms. Wifi and public computer is available on the
ground floor and ensuite privates have been added to cater
to the higher-class of backpacker as well. Q21 rooms (4
308z, 102 Dorm Beds 42 - 62z). J6GW
Pink Panthers Hostel C-2, ul. w. Tomasza 8, tel.

(+48) 12 422 09 35, www.pinkpanthershostel.com.
One of Krakws premier party hostels, Pink Panthers is
ideal for social travellers eager to meet and make friends
with others during their stay. The hostels biggest asset is
the staff who seem ready to organise your entire stay for
you, from hosting daily activities in the evenings (pre-party
vodka tastings, free pasta dinners) before heading out on
daily pub crawls with the guests, to offering free walking tours
the next morning, plus plenty of other advice on what to see
and do. Sleeping arrangements are mostly in dorms with
shared bathrooms, there are 4 computers available, plus a
comfy common room and kitchen with free tea, coffee and
breakfast. Its a great value and atmosphere for your money,
which is what hostelling is all about. Q8 rooms (1 singles
160z, 1 doubles 160z, 52 Dorm beds 40 - 55z). AGW
The Secret Garden Hostel D-7, ul. Skawiska 7, tel.
(+48) 12 430 54 45, www.thesecretgarden.pl. Secret
Garden Hostel is part of a new wave of low-cost options,
and its also one of the best. Certainly the most colourful,
quarters come with names that leave no doubt over what
colours to expect on opening the door, from Clockwork
Orange to Vanilla Sky via Mint Sorbet. Dorms come with
comfortable pine bunks, while private rooms are neat,
simple efforts, with the addition of wrought iron furnishings
and colourful bed spreads. The common room features
low-slung sofas and a DVD library to put to the test, plus
theres laundry services, free internet access and a garden
for barbecues if the season is right. Secret Garden Hostel
also has a fantastic little apartment close to the main hostel
with two more in Kazimierz (ul. Jzefa 6 and ul. Szeroka 29).
4 triples 170 - 195z, 1 quads 200z, 14 Dorm beds 45z).
TAR6UGW

Carolling
The singing of holiday carols is extremely popular
in Poland, and the Poles possess a vast, seemingly
inexhaustible songbook of ancient tunes traditionally sung this time of year. Carolling is typically
reserved until Wigilia and afterwards continues into
the New Year until Three Kings Day (wito Trzech
Krly) on January 6th. Aside from the cavalcade of
carols sung in church, carolling outside of church in
many cases takes on the form of skits and dressing in costume to a degree. One popular form of
carolling are jaseki nativity plays acted out by
children or other community groups, often in school
or sometimes door-to-door. A more regional form of
carolling is the per formance of herody humorous
skits acting out the fate of King Herod. If you dont
know the story, upon being informed by the wise
men that the Saviour had been born and fearing he
might lose his throne to this new king of the Jews,
King Herod ordered the execution of all young male
children in Bethlehem. As children dressed in folk
costumes resembling the characters of King Herod,
an angel, a bull, a soldier, a Jew, Death and the Devil
(and sometimes others) go on to demonstrate, the
king was duly punished, the heights of black comedy
being reached as Death and the Devil argue over the
wicked kings soul while they chase him around. A
bit too dark and boisterous for church, youll likely
see children in strange homemade costumes all
over the Rynek after Christmas as seemingly every
school class takes a turn at carolling on its stage.
Oddly adorable.
49
50
RESTAURANTS
Dining at a Glance
With the development of the market in Krakow, the number
and diversity of places to eat has become incredibly wide and is
improving all the time. Thats not to say that its all good: ethnic
cuisine is still too often brutalised to make it more acceptable
to Polish palates and some industry insiders consider Krakws
esteemed culinary rep to be a bit generous.
The sheer number of places available now means that
while you dont have to search for a place to eat it is worth
taking a moment to find a place worthy of your time and
money, as well as being aware of those places with prime
locations worth avoiding. Our print guide carries a wide
selection of these while the In Your Pocket website and
iphone app carry even more.
The figures we quote in brackets are the cheapest and
costliest main courses on the menu. The opening hours
we list are given to us by the restaurants but are rough
guidelines as to when you can expect the chef to be
working. Below is a list of recommendations depending
on what youre looking for.
Splurge:
Wierzynek remains the king of Krakw - the citys oldest and most upscale restaurant, right on the Rynek.
Wentzl and Pod Ra are arguably not far behind, but
if you want fine dining that doesnt bludgeon you over
the head with huge hunks of meat, our top picks are the
French Cyrano de Bergerac and the sophisticated wine
list and seasonal cuisine of Copernicus.
Cheap:
A traditional Polish milk bar is as cheap as youll eat
anywhere with a menu in your life, and the clearly marked
Bar Mleczny at ul. Grodzka 43 is the easiest to find.
For something Polish with a bit of atmosphere try Polakowski. If youre not a fan of Polish food, Bagelmama
is tough to beat or head to Momo for something healthy
and - youll never guess - green.
Lads:
Rooster remains the default choice for stag dos thanks
to the visual feast the staff provide, or visit Jeffs where
the skimpy outfits are less of a fashion disaster. For local
feed try Pod Wawelem where huge portions of meat are
served with side dishes of more meat - enough to make
the most carnivorous caveman consider a light salad for
his next meal - and the bathroom features a vomitorium
for those who over-consume.
Families:
Krakw now has two cafes designed specifically for
kids in Cafe Culca and Mukinka (see Cafes). If youre
looking for more of a meal than a snack, take the nippers
to Sioux for wild west dcor and a special kids menu,
or better yet, drag them to Pod Wawelem where theyll
wear themselves out in the ball pit while you devour
hunks of meat and drain steins of lager. Everybody wins.
Couples:
Finding a romantic spot in this city is not difficult. The
city itself is a marvellous backdrop for a romantic
weekend and with cafes and restaurants seemingly on
every corner and tucked into picturesque courtyards you
shouldnt have to search far for something. Try Resto
Illuminati, Marmolada, Trufla or Aqua e Vino, or for a
particularly memorable evening, take a cab out to enjoy
the outstanding views at U Ziyada.
American
Grande Grill C-3, Rynek Gwny 16, tel. (+48) 12
424 96 21, www.grandegrill.pl. Krakw has plenty of
courtyard gardens, but few can equal this one. Packed
with plants hanging from timber beams this is an attractive venue, and under the stewardship of Wierzynek,
Krakws most legendary restaurant. Great environs
come with great service and arguably the finest steaks
and grilled seafood in the city. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.
(14-72z). TAGSW
Hard Rock Cafe C-3, Pl. Mariacki 9, tel. (+48) 12

429 11 55, www.hardrockcafe.pl. The international Hard
Rock Cafe chain has set up shop on some of the citys most
hallowed ground next to St. Marys Basilica. Inside youll find
an absurdly large number of staff members milling around
amongst rock memorabilia including a pair of Elton Johns
spectacles to an unplayable home-made guitar from Polish
legends T. Love. Featuring a modern interior stacked over
three levels, stop by to enjoy a juicy burger while gazing at a
scarf John Lennon once wore. QOpen 10:00 - 23:30. (3689z). PTAUGW
Jeffs J-3, ul. Podgrska 34 (Galeria Kazimierz),

tel. (+48) 12 433 03 30, www.jeffs.pl. Youll find
Jeffs inside a shopping mall but that does nothing to
deter the American expats and well-heeled locals who
use the place. This is your classic TGIs-style affair, only
these guys do it a little better, with both the steak and
ribs regularly eliciting glowing reports from Yank exiles.
Staff with sugar smiles in skimpy denim shorts keep the
drinks flowing while interiors are your standard soup of
road signs and number plates. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00.
(19-69z). PTAUEXSW
Love Krove D-6, ul. Jzefa 8, tel. (+48) 12 422 15

06. Too gourmet to be considered American-style, Love
Krove takes the burger concept and pushes it beyond
your expectations; in fact, well beyond the capacity of
your open mouth and maybe your stomach too. These
burgers are so stacked with tantalising toppings (including guacamole, gorgonzola, rucola, chorizo and more) you
can hardly fit them in your face, and its good sport watching the locals try to knife and fork them (sigh). Served on
a fresh roll with a side of perfectly fried potato wedges,
most of the burgers on the menu come overflowing with
mustard, mayo, salsa or sauce, meaning you may want
to build your own to make eating less of a mess. The
pop elements of the small white interior, including the
absurdly hip cartoon mural, are a nice change of pace,
and no matter how you like your burger, if you like them
at all, youll enjoy the comforts of Love Krove. QOpen
12:00 - 21:00. (13-18z). TA6GSW
Moaburger D-3, ul. Mikoajska 3, tel. (+48) 12 421

21 44. Like most things from New Zealand, Moaburger
is very proud, making it clear from the kiwi iconography
and info all over the interior that this is an NZ take on the
classic American burger and shake shack. As far as the
food goes, theyve certainly super-sized it: burgers come
served on a tray (a plate just wouldnt do) and you might
even consider splitting one with a friend if have any other
meals planned later in the day. Piled with the toppings
of your choice, in contrast to Love Krove, Moaburgers
arent a mess to eat. In fact theyre darn enjoyable,
though youll discover its not exactly the cheapest meal
out, with a burger, fries and a drink coming in over 30z.
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (16-28z).
TA6GSW
52
RESTAURANTS
Tipping Tribulations
Polish tipping etiquette can be a bit confusing for
foreigners. While in other civilized countries its normal
to say thanks when a waiter collects the money,
youll be horrified to learn that in Poland uttering the
word dzikuje (thank you), or even thank you in
English, is an indication that you wont be wanting
any change back. This cultural slip-up can get very
embarrassing and expensive as the waiter/waitress
then typically does their best to play the fool and make
you feel ashamed for asking for your money back, or
conveniently disappears having pocketed all of your
change, no matter what the cost of the meal and size
of the note it was paid with. We suggest that you only
say thank you if you are happy for the waitstaff to
keep all of the change. Otherwise we advise you to
only use the word prosz when handing back the bill
and the payment.
Despite the fact that the average waitress in PL only
makes a paltry 10-15z/hr, a customary tip is still
only around 10% of the meals total (though being
a foreigner may make staff expectant of a bit more
generosity). As such, we encourage you to reward
good service when you feel its deserved. Finally,
it is not common to add the tip to your credit card
payment because waitstaff are forced to then pay
tax on the gratuity; most likely you will not even be
able to leave a tip on your card. Have some change
handy so you can still leave a cash tip, or ask your
server for change.
RESTAURANTS
fun, with outrageous ambiance and a hysterical English menu
(featuring dishes like Steak a la Blunt Arrow in Bisons Rump)
making up for the inevitable kraut and pickles in your burrito.
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (19-99z). PTJA6GSW
SomePlace Else A-5, ul. Powile 7 (Sheraton Krakw),

tel. (+48) 12 662 16 70, krakow.someplace-else.pl.
Attached to the Sheraton Hotel SPE is more than a hotel
restaurant, for expats this is every bit as good as a one-way
ticket home. The menu is a classic countdown of Uncle Sams
favourite bar food including nachos and some other Tex-Mex
offerings. As the rock memorabilia and diner dcor suggests,
this place doesnt take itself as seriously as most hotel eateries, and its one of your best bets for catching the game of your
choice, be it NFL or MLB. Loosen the tie and belt at the same
time. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Mon, Sun 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 24:00. (40-155z). PTAUXW
Yummie B-3, Rynek Gwny 25, tel. (+48) 12 421 34 44,

www.yummie.pl. If you support the slow evolution of Krakows
UNESCO-listed market square into a shopping mall food court,
theres no better way to put your money where your mouth is
than at Yummie. The menu has been revamped to feature grilled
steaks more prominently than their array of chicken parts, but
Yummie remains a tribute to American-style overconsumption.
The seasonal outdoor seating is a godsend compared to the
boring brick interior piped with cheesy music which somehow
manages to impose fast food franchise appeal onto some of
the most regal real estate in Europe. Poles get a pass, but you
get a punch in the mouth if we catch you eating here. Also at ul.
Kamieskiego 11 (Bonarka City Center). QOpen 11:00 - 22:00,
Fri, Sat 11:00 - 23:00. (16-49z). PTAEGSW
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Wladyslaw Grochot - trumpet and Elzbieta Dubrowski - vocals.
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Asian
Rooster B-2, ul. Szczepaska 4, tel. (+48) 12 411 36
72, www.rooster.pl. The equivalent of Americas tasteless
Hooters restaurants, despite this being Poland the poor girls
look just as bad in their tiny orange shorts which create an
almost blinding glare against their artificially tanned legs.
Luckily theres sports on the box and good value upmarket
burgerfare to tuck into so nobody notices you leering. Heaven
for lads, and especially dads who can always convince the
wife and kids thanks to a well-segregated non-smoking section, kids menu, play area and even a toy with the meal. In
summer the rooftop terrace is a treat. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00,
Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00. (19-48z). TJAXSW
Sioux Classic C-3, Rynek Gwny 22, tel. (+48) 12

421 34 62, www.sioux.krakow.pl. This franchise does
cowboy and injun kitsch at its finest. Beautiful squaws and
amateur ranch-hands in ten-gallon hats swagger about the
cattle wrangling decor, serving pseudo-Mexican and American chow to customers inside stagecoachs. Its all in good
Horai D-7, Pl. Wolnica 9, tel. (+48) 12 430 03 58, www.

horairestaurant.pl. A veritable veteran of the sushi scene at
this point, Horai had a significant hand in turning Plac Wolnica
over from a culinary no-mans-land to a stable of respectable
restaurants. An enticing menu with broad appeal covers
Japanese and Thai cuisine with an extensive selection of sushi
sets, curries and grill offerings inside an appealing interior of
rice-paper partitions, origami hi-jinks and enormous illuminated panoramas of Hong Kong in the back room. One of the
most affordable meals of its kind in town and still one of the
best. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (17-50z). PTAVGSW
Yellow Dog A-2, ul. Krupnicza 9/1, tel. (+48) 603 11
31 39. Yellow Dog is the up-and-coming Asian-specialty cafe
practically across the street from Karma. In keeping with celebrated Indian, Chinese and Vietnamese dishes, rice or noodle
is your primary decision of the day, although it is made easier by
very reasonable prices and a good variety of choices, including
several spicy soups (most for under 10z) and vegetarian op-
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6

ul. Dajwr 10, Krakw - Kazimierz, tel. 12 346 16 46, www.bagelmama.com

tions for the food-challenged. As usual youve got wine, beer,

and juice to cool the palette and wash it down, and throwing in
a dessert or three wont break the bank. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00,
Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (16-26z). TA6GSW
Bagels
Bagelmama E-6, ul. Dajwr 10, tel. (+48) 12 346 16
46, www.bagelmama.com. Long known as Kazimierzs link
with the western world, Bagelmama brings an NYC deli staple
back to the city where its speculated that the doughy ring may
even have been invented all those years ago; and ironically
across from Polands oldest synagogue no less. Inside this
big, bright caf youre likely to meet Nava, its Yankee owner,
as he scurries back and forth filling orders, refilling coffees and
chatting with customers. A variety of fresh bagels come with
the toppings of your choice, with options including sun-dried
tomato cream cheese, humus, alfalfa sprouts, fresh salmon
and more. Burritos are back on the menu, and theres more in
store with a new menu for autumn/winter on its way. QOpen
09:00 - 18:00. (7-21z). TA6VGSW
Chinese
Bei Jing A-3, Pl. Sikorskiego 1, tel. (+48) 12 357 50
87, www.restauracjachinskakrakow.pl. This might be
Krakws most authentic Chinese restaurant, vouched for by
the three dozen Chinese students that inexplicably marched
in as we were leaving. Choose from a large variety of traditional dishes with vague descriptions featuring all manner
of meats, seaweed and even tofu (though you better ask to
ensure tofu dishes dont also include meat, ours did). Prices
and quality are generally higher than most local Chinese
outfits and the waitress offers honest advice about how to
order well. A page of the menu has been adjusted to Polish
taste, which also extends to the picture of the Pope which

interrupts the typical red and gold interior of paper lanterns
and folding fans. Spend over 50z and you even get 2 fortune
cookies (in badly translated Polish) at the end. QOpen 11:00
- 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (10-58z). TA6GSW
Wok C-3, Rynek Gwny 39, tel. (+48) 12 433 70

10, www.wokrestaurant.pl. If you like things done your
way - especially spicy, tasty, Asian things - then Wok is both
well-suited and well-situated for you. In a large scarlet and
mahogany motifed location right on the Rynek, your choices
begin in earnest. Following pasta or rice, you are confronted
with six possibilities for sauce, three meats (pork, chicken
or beef) and three seafoods, toppings and veggies. Large
salads are also a possibility, or the 39,90z super combo
option. Just when you think youre done, the beverage list
includes a slew of pricey cocktails and seems to cover every
liquid known to man. Fortunately theres now a separate room
where your kids can play while you sort all that out. QOpen
12:00 - 23:00. (25-59z). TAUGSW
Czech
Ceska Chodba A-4, ul. Zwierzyniecka 30, tel. (+48) 12
421 05 62, www.ceska.chodba.pl. Ceska Chodba makes no
secret that it provides an edible homage to all things Czech for
the good denizens of Krakow. Before you even get to the food,
youre immersed in classic Czech art-work, photographs, music,
and maybe even a waiter or two. The Czechs take great pride
in their beer, dumplings and goulash (both the entree and the
soup) and you would do well to try all three here. Theyve even
got a few Polish dishes on the menu if you lose your nerve. For
those of you who have been hunting for the surprisingly scarce
oases of Bohemia in the Krakow area, say ahoj to Ceska
Chodba. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (14-42z). TAUGSW
53
54
RESTAURANTS
Breakfast
Bagelmama E-6, ul. Dajwr 10, tel. (+48) 12
346 16 46, www.bagelmama.com. Kazimierzs
favourite bagel spot is a great place to start the
day. Q Break fast served 09:00-18:00. (15-22z).
TA6VGSW
Dynia Resto Bar A-2, ul. Krupnicza 20, tel.
(+48) 12 430 08 38, www.dynia.krakow.pl. Dynia
has an extensive breakfast menu, which weve gladly
gone back to time and again. Most of the offerings
are simple Polish morning standards - scrambled
eggs with chives, omelettes with jam or fruits - however, more hearty creations like the sausage-laden
hultajski set (13z) and fishy sailor set (16z) are
also available as well as English breakfast for 22z.
Q Breakfast served 08:00-13:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 13:00. TA6GW
Europejska C-3, Rynek Gwny 35, tel. (+48) 12

429 34 93, www.europejska.pl. The market square
location and comfortable, yet classy atmosphere of
the interior make Europejska a favourite of tourists and
elder ex-pats. The extensive breakfast menu satisfies
a variety of tastes with its set English, Polish and Vienna
breakfast platters (27-39z), with plenty of omlettes to
choose from. If youre not ready to take on a meal at
this hour, the selection of coffee drinks and tortes will
sweeten anyone up. Q Breakfast served 08:00 - 12:30.
PTAGSW
Irish Pub Nic Nowego D -3, ul. w. Krzya 15,

tel. (+48) 12 421 61 88, www.nicnowego.com.
Unlike the others listed here, Nic Nowego serves
great break fast all damn day and right up to the
next. With perhaps the only proper Irish break fast
in Krakw, the menu also includes omelettes and
toasted sandwiches. Not only is the owner a chef,
but he also patronises his bar on a regular basis,
creating a welcoming atmosphere. Q Break fast
served 07:00-03:00, Sat, Sun 09:00-03:00. (1025z). TA6GSW
Metropolitan C-3, ul. Sawkowska 3, tel. (+48)

12 421 98 03, www.metropolitan-krakow.com.
Universally hailed as peerless, break fast here is
conveniently served until 15:00 on the weekends.
With sound American and English skillet breakfasts
and maple syrup-smothered pancakes as menu options, you may not even be tempted to approach the
imposing breakfast buffet - an upscale assortment
of meats, cheeses, fruit, pastries, and eggs made
to order. In the end, the quality of the food and the
friendly service make you want to return as soon
as youve walked out the door. Q Breakfast served
07:30-12:30, Sat 07:30-16:00, Sun 07:30-15:00.
(9-29z). PTAGSW
Szara C-3, Rynek Gwny 6, tel. (+48) 12 421

66 69, www.szara.pl. Decent breakfasts served on
the Market Square from 08:00. Choose from a selection of set menus all priced around the 5 euro mark
ranging from cereals and yoghurts, white sausage
grilled with cheese and cucumber right through to
a fried eggs and bacon, all with coffee, tea and fruit
juice. Q Breakfast served 08:00-12:00. (18-21z).
PTAUGSW
RESTAURANTS
Diego & Bohumil C-5, ul. w. Sebastiana 6, tel. (+48)
12 426 01 01. Presumably the Bohumil side of this unique
enterprise, Diego i Bohumil combines Czech and Argentinean cuisine in one locale through the friendship of the two
owners. The menu is split evenly between the two, and the
multi-lingual menu helpfully reveals that almost every Czech
entree seems to be a slight variation on a familiar Polish dish
like goulash, potato pancakes or fried cheese; not that thats
a bad thing. Simple, solid and affordable, DiB is big on friendly,
not fancy, making it a great place for after-work gatherings,
watching a football match or relaxing on the quiet terrace
(in season). Good selection of Argentinean wines and now
more Czech beers than ever before. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00.
(12-60z). TAIGSW
French
Cyrano de Bergerac C-2, ul. Sawkowska 26, tel.
(+48) 12 411 72 88, www.cyranodebergerac.pl.
Krakws finest French restaurant is a magnificent white
tablecloth affair, steeped in tradition and famed throughout
the city for scores of dishes including an exceptional foie gras
and the occasional experimental hit. Located in a medieval
cellar against a backdrop of antiques and tapestries, if youre
going to commit splurgery while in town, there are few better
places to do it than here, and thats a fact recognized by none
other than the Michelin Guide. If you dont have the purse
for splurging, the new lunch menu (served 12:00-18:00) has
much lower prices (17-40z). QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed
Sun. (49-89z). PTAXW
La Fontaine C-3, ul. Sawkowska 1, tel. (+48) 12 422
65 64, www.lafontaine-restaurant.pl. The courtyard terrace is the pick of places to eat at La Fontaine, though the
interior has a pleasing elegance as well when theres a gale
outside. Here delicious French food is served by a well-trained
staff who actually appear to enjoy what they do. So does
the chef, clearly, as he turns out wonderful dishes such as
roasted goose breast with mango, peach and honey-vinegar
juice. The set tasting menus are a good value at 65z. QOpen
12:00 - 23:00. (18-58z). PTA6XS
over and the modern interior with lots of green, is a calming

space to enjoy dishes such as yaki gyoza (Japanese dumplings) or a delicious sirloin steak marinated in salt, pepper
and ginger. A great place to eat before setting off to explore
the nearby Pl. Nowy nightlife scene. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00.
(24-49z). PTAIGSW
NEW
No Bo D-6, ul. Meiselsa 24, tel. (+48) 666 34 69

51, www.restauracja-nobo.pl. A fusion of tastes in both
menu and design, No Bos strange sense of style melds
classic movie posters with clever, frilly lamp fixtures, warm
colourful upholstery and large wall-length photos of seemingly arbitrary cities, to somehow create an odd, modern
elegance. Similarly, the menu strikes a nice balance between
creativity and culinary comfort with well-presented dishes
like sole-stuffed tamale with Thai dumplings, spinach and
tomato salsa. Add it up and the why not? approach is
successfully answered by the restaurants name (well,
because) in what is ultimately a comfortable place for an
interesting, affordable dinner. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (2030z). PTA6UEGSW
NEW
Russian Enso A-1, ul. Karmelicka 52, tel. (+48) 12

633 65 20, www.russianenso.pl. Nevermind the name
and shady outlier location, this ground floor restaurant
above the exclusively remodelled club of the same name
gives you additional incentive to make Russian Enso your
regular weekend rave-up of choice. The kitchen stays open
as late as the club Thursday to Saturday, and this is hardly
the slapdash drunk food youd find yourself eating elsewhere.
The well-prepared menu combines elements of Polish, Italian,
Russian and Asian cuisine, coming up with standouts like the
spicy Malaysian chicken or solyanka soup (tomato-based
with olives, capers, sausage and kidneys; yes, kidneys).
Stop in Mon-Fri between 12:00 and 17:00 and take 50%
off an already affordable meal. A slick modern interior with
enclosed garden and great service are only undermined by
the playlist of every horrible pop song from the last decade.
QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 03:00. (22-49z).
PA6XSW
NEW
Zazie Bistro E-6, ul. Jzefa 34, tel. (+48) 797 29 08

85, www.zaziebistro.pl. While no stranger to fine French
dining, this pleasant Kazimierz eatery is the closest Krakw
has come to a casual Parisian bistro, complete with classic
set meals (including an appetiser, main and dessert) for an
affordable 39z, and all the French culinary hallmarks like escargot, fantastic creme brulee and quiche that you can order
by size from 1/8th to the whole pie. Set over two levels, the
ground floor tries its luck at looking like a Parisian sidewalk
terrace with a wall-length mural of Frances famous phallus
landmark, interior streetlights and even a candy-striped
roll-out canopy over one table; head to the cellar for a more
romantic atmosphere of candlelight and wine racks. Overall
a great way to enjoy French cuisine without indulging any
stereotypes about snobbery. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri,
Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (24-35z). TAGW
Fusion
Edo Fusion D-6, ul. Miodowa 8, tel. (+48) 12 426 24
24, www.edofusion.pl. A poke in the eye for anyone who
claims that the Krakow restaurant scene has reached bursting point. The chaps at Edo Sushi have expanded into the
premises next door and opened a fusion restaurant which
has met with a positive reaction from the locals straight off
and compliments its neigbouring predecessor quite nicely.
The high standards set in the original sushi joint are carried
La Fontaine
Georgian
Gruziskie Chaczapuri C-2, ul. Floriaska 26, tel.
(+48) 509 54 28 02, www.chaczapuri.pl. For reasons
we simply cant comprehend, this Georgian food franchise
seems to have taken over the Old Town. Equally incomprehensible is how with a menu so vast everything comes
out of the kitchen virtually the same - sketchy meat of your
choice, shredded lettuce and cheese wrapped in a stale
tortilla, preceded by a frozen dinner roll; no disrespect to
Stalins homeland, but thats hardly the most original take
on cuisine. Affordable, sure, but essentially a rip-off when
you consider the cost to the kitchen, whose late hours
nonetheless make this place popular with large parties
more preoccupied with their tipple than nosh inside the
rustic interior. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00.
(15-30z). PTAGSW
Greek
Akropolis C-5, ul. Grodzka 9, tel. (+48) 12 421 77 25.
They do Greek food here, but its certainly not as the gods
intended. Sit inside amid a flimsy interior of Doric pillars and
wall frescoes or else form a line outside their kebab window
if youre curious to learn what it feels like to have your guts
skewered by Neptunes trident. QOpen 10:00 - 05:00, Fri
10:00 - 06:00, Sat 10:00 - 07:00. (10-25z). PGS
Full Center Old Town

The best of the french cusine
Tel: +48 12 431 09 30 /48 12 422 65 64
www.lafontaine-restaurant.pl
lafontaine@lafontaine.com.pl
The Obwarzanek
Any culinary journey through Krakw is likely to start with
the obwarzanek. A chewy dough ring sprinkled (usually
extremely unevenly) with salt, poppy or sesame seeds,
obwarzanki are sold from rolling carts on every other street
corner in Krakw, and are so inescapable theyve become
an unofficial symbol of the city. In fact the obwarzanek is
one of only two Polish foods currently protected by the
EU on its Traditional Foods List. Known as the Krakowian bagel, the obwarzanek gets its name from the Polish
word for par-boiled and therefore differs slightly from the
bagel, in addition to being its internationally popular counterparts predecessor. Though the origins of the Jewish
bagel are complex, confusing and hotly-contested, most
agree that it was invented by Krakw Jews after 1496
when King Jan Sobieski lifted the decree that formerly
restricted the production of baked goods to the Krakw
Bakers Guild. First written mention of the obwarzanek
meanwhile dates back to 1394, meaning that its been a
daily sight on Krakws market square for over 600 years.
Though increased tourism in recent years has jacked the
price of an obwarzanek up to around 1.30z, youll still see
countless people on the go munching these pretzel rings.
Tasty and filling when fresh, the art of truly enjoying an
obwarzanek leaves a lot up to chance. Krakowian bakers
produce up to 200,000 obwarzanki daily in the summer,
despite the fact that on leaving the oven the baked goods
have a sell-by date of about three hours. As such, finding a hot one is essential. Enjoyed by people of all ages,
obwarzanki also feed Krakws entire pigeon population
when in the evenings the citys 170-180 obwarzanki carts
essentially become bird-food vendors.
55
56
RESTAURANTS
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RESTAURANTS
Hungarian
Balaton C-4, ul. Grodzka 37, tel. (+48) 12 422 04 69,
www.balaton.krakow.pl. A surprise result on the Krakw
dining scene. Sure it looks seedy but the good news is that
the service is excellent and the food represents one of the
best deals youll find. The fish soup acts as an excellent
prelude to your steaming plate of goulash. Recommended.
QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (17-39z). PTAGS
Deli Bar D-6, ul. Meiselsa 5, tel. (+48) 12 430 64 04,

www.delibar.pl. A bright modern eatery whose orange
walls come decorated with blow-up photos of paprika and
goulash. It doesnt take a brainbox to work out whats the
order of the day here, this place is Hungarian through and
through, and youll find a stack of red hot, spicy dishes on
the menu. And its not just the bloodthirsty whore catered
for here, non-carnivores get a fair choice of fish, salads and
soups to test. Best of all, the price to quality ratio is positively
off-the-scale. QOpen 13:00 - 21:30, Fri 13:00 - 22:00, Sat,
Sun 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. (10-30z). TUXSW
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Have Your Say

If you have an opinion about any of the venues listed in
this guide, let the two million regular unique visitors to
our website, www.inyourpocket.com, know about it. Every
venue on our website now has a function for comments,
be they critical, complimentary or comical, so spill it.
Indian
NEW
Bollywood Restaurant & Bar C-6, ul. Stradomska

17, tel. (+48) 12 341 41 06, www.bollywood-food.pl.
What looks like a disaster in design and concept is actually a
surprisingly authentic Indian restaurant. While the extensive
menu has to make the unfortunate concessions of including
a page of Polish mains, kebabs, and even pizza, the Indian
cuisine is on target and the real-live non-Polish-speaking
Indian waiter is willing to let you know the strengths of his
kitchen. We can join him in recommending the Madras curry,
which was not only more food than we expected, but tasty
and - what do you know? - very spicy. With lunch specials
for 15.90z and beer for 4z, if you can ignore the blindingly
orange walls with their amateur murals (though we have to
give special recognition to the genius who painted Ganesh
with a traditional Polish ciupaga), youll find yourself enjoying
some of the most authentic and affordable Indian food in
town. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. (16-42z). TGSW
Bombaj Tandoori E-6, ul. Szeroka 7-8, tel. (+48) 12

Mila comments
my husband and I visited the shop last month while in
Krakow. the ladies in the shop were so very helpful and
accommodating. excellent prices! my only regret is that
we were not able to physically carry more home with us.
Geri and Ed Burke - waynesboro 28 November 2011
Prozak comments
was there yesterday a sunday a lot of people. Not as
big place as I was imagine by reading this article. Good
service you have to go into the club to find the cloakroom
by the toilets. A bit weird smell. And when I was there they
only played latino music. (I only was there ca 30minutes)
Sverre - Haugesund 28 November 2011
Night Club 66 comments
A nice place for drunken British yobs to show off why the
local people loathe and detest them.
Andrew 19 November 2011
Ekobistro Papuamu comments
Fantastic food- -and great prices. Sure beats vegetarian
restaurants in New York!
Alexander Motyl - New York City
18 November 2011
422 37 97, www.restauracjabombaj.pl. All around not

a bad effort, but a bit hit-or-miss: the Dupiaza is excellent,
but the same couldnt be said for the Vindaloo or Chicken
Masala Bhuna Gosht on our visits. And ordering your entree
extra spicy here certainly wont leave your kids orphaned.
If nothing else its a decent diversion from all the menorahs
and prayer shawls on display in neighbouring restaurants.
Find a pleasant interior with patterned tablecloths, pics of Himalayan mountain scenes and photo albums of the staff and
guests journeys in the homeland. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri,
Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (17-41z). PTA6UIVGSW
Buddha C-3, ul. Grodzka 9, tel. (+48) 782 11 12 22,

www.buddha.info.pl. Descend the technicolour stairs
to enter this maze of enormous cellars decked out with
elephant-headed, multi-armed deities, fine oriental art and
candlelight. The upscale atmosphere is in concert with
the cocktail lounge it transitions into after dark, but in the
afternoons this is a quiet hideout. An excellent English menu
clearly explains the wide variety of dishes - a small selection
of which are of Thai origin - including the heat level, which
isnt the lark you might expect. The Malai Kofta wasnt the
best weve ever had and the naan came out a bit black on the
bottom, but weve eaten enough pierogi in our time to forgive
a few minor details and enjoy. QOpen 12:00 - 22:30, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 23:30. (23-150z). TAGSW
Hot Chili C-2, ul. Pijarska 9, tel. (+48) 12 422 12 92,

www.indianfood.pl. To have a successful restaurant in
Krakw apparently it has to be Italian, which must be why even
the Indian places serve pizza these days (see also, Padre). Or
maybe its because they think pizza dough and naan bread are
interchangeable, as the case is here. At any rate, beside the
pizza list is a full menu of Indian dishes, and if you arrive during
lunch hours (Mon-Fri, 12:00-16:30) you get a samosa, salad,
rice, naan and the vegetarian or meat entree of your choice all for
under 20z. That is one heck of a bargain, not to mention a great
change of pace from pierogi even if its not the greatest korma
youve ever had. Unfortunately the atmosphere is undermined
by the Polish pop radio and terrible service, but we suppose if
you want a great Indian restaurant, you shouldnt go to a pizzeria.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (25-40z). PTAVGS
Indus Tandoor C-2, ul. Sawkowska 13-15, tel. (+48)
12 423 22 82, www.indus.pl. Following a freshening-up
the reds, golds, greens and lotus patterns of Induss interior
look sharper than ever, but its the spacious new summer
garden full of colourful draped fabrics that we prefer when
the weathers warm. The near constant line of people filing
in and out speaks to the high quality of the food, and while
spice levels rarely threaten to reach volcanic, Indus is a vast
improvement on the ethnic experience of yesteryear. Try the
business lunch specials for a fantastic value. QOpen 12:00 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (13-27z). PTA6GSW
Paranoya D-5, ul. Brzozowa 8, tel. (+48) 12 422 03 74,

www.paranoyaclub.com. Paranoya is a relatively new addition
to the Indian cuisine family of Krakw, and Kazimierz always
welcomes any international additions. Their menu covers most
of the traditional Indian dishes and includes a few continental
or rather European common entrees as well. The drinks list is
enormous, no doubt due to the presence of the dance-club
of the same name which this place morphs into as night falls.
QOpen 13:00 - 23:00. (13-39z). TAEXSW
NEW
Roti Roti D-7, ul. Wgowa 4, tel. (+48) 12 395 70 04,

www.rotiroti.pl. With all the Indian restaurants in Krakw
these days, Roti Roti refreshingly keeps it at rickshaw level,
ditching the gold tapestries and icons to deliver authentic
Indian street food in a modern cafeteria setting. The primary
menu item is roti - Asian wraps made from fresh-baked unleavened bread - and customers get the filling of their choice for
only 10z. Though this take-away fast food takes a bit too long
and the small portions could use some rice to fill them out, the
results are undeniably delicious and make a great alternative
to low-quality city-wide kebabs. Roti Roti is still finding its feet
and would be well served by expanding the menu to encourage
stays in their colourful interior of photos of India and elaborate
sand mosaics, but we know well be back for more. QOpen
12:00 - 20:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 22:00. (10-20z). TGSW
International
Amadeus D-3, ul. Mikoajska 20 (Amadeus Hotel),
tel. (+48) 12 423 03 40, www.restauracja-amadeus.
pl. Classy staff serve Polish and European classics taken
to new heights in the sumptuous surroundings of frescos
and 17th century furnishings. In other words, a treat. Try the
classic urek soup - we do not think we have ever tasted better - before moving on to more notable nosh like the venison
that will have you wondering how such simple flavours can
be so rich. The superior quality of this establishment has
been grandfathered into Krakws restaurant scene, and
offers the rare chance to eat well right off of Mozarts flatwared face. Q Open 07:00-11:00, 12:00-23:00. (49-89z).
PTYAUGW
57
58
RESTAURANTS
Fryderyk Chopin
Born to French/Polish
parents in the village of
elazowa Wola, Fryderyk
C h o p i n (1 8 1 0 -1 8 4 9)
stands out as Polands
fi n es t c ompos er, a n d
remains the source of
global reverence who has
given his name to hotels,
an airport and even an
asteroid. His father was
a French expatriate who
had once fought against
t h e Ru s si a n s, b e fo re
choosing to settle in Poland. A year after Fryderyk
was born the family moved to Warsaw, where his father
pursued a career as a French tutor. The young Chopin
started learning piano at the age of four, and by age
eight had already performed at what is now the Presidential Palace. A diligent student he was educated at
home for the first 13 years, before attending Warsaws
Lyceum, and then the Warsaw Music Conservatory.
He continued to blossom under its director, the Polish
composer Joseph Elsner, who was wowed by Chopins
musical genius. Within three weeks of graduation he
made a sparkling debut in Vienna, before returning to
Poland to perform the premier of his Piano Concerto in F
minor. Already recognised as an amazing talent, Chopin
started showing the signs of illness that would continue
to blight the rest of his life. Chopin set off to play in
Vienna in November 1830, following a farewell party in
a Wola tavern. Unbeknownst to him, that was to be his
last taste of Warsaw. By the end of the month Poland
had rose in rebellion against Russian rule. Dissuaded
from joining the uprising himself Chopin drew inspiration from events to write his tortured masterpiece,
Revolution. Choosing to stay in exile Chopin settled
in Paris where he was welcomed by Polish migrs,
as well as upcoming composers and high society. His
friends numbered Berlioz, Bellini (who he is buried next
to) and Mendelssohn, as well as high profile Poles like
the uncrowned King, Prince Adam Czartoryski and Adam
Mickiewicz, while his dapper dress and natural charms
attracted a string of adoring females. Drawing on his
Polish upbringing the 1830s saw Chopin enjoy a magically productive spell, composing a series of acclaimed
polonaises and mazurkas. The defining point of his life
though can be pinned to his meeting with controversial
author George Sand in 1837. Despite being engaged to
a 17 year old girl and some curious first impressions of
Sand (what an unpleasant woman), the two embarked
on a torrid nine year affair. Racked with chronic lung
problems and a near permanent cough, the faltering
relationship hit stormy waters when Sand, an alleged
nymphomaniac, serialised the novel Lucretia Floriani
in a Paris newspaper in 1846. The selfish antihero is
commonly recognized as being a parody of Chopin.
Broke, ill and broken-hearted Chopin led an increasingly
miserable life. Struck with tuberculosis he finally passed
away in his Paris apartment aged just 39. Buried in
Pere-Lachaise cemetery in Paris, on his insistence his
body was cut open (he was terrified of being buried alive)
and his heart later buried in Warsaws Koci witego
Krzya. Regarded as the pinnacle of the Romantic style
his music and legend survive to this day.
RESTAURANTS
Amarylis D-5, ul. Dietla 60 (Queen Boutique Hotel), tel.
(+48) 12 433 33 06, www.amarylisrestaurant.pl. Like
the Queen Boutique Hotel its lodged in, Amarylis features
a smart, modern design of black and white furnishings with
fresh flowers on every table, contrasting with the vaulted
brick and stone cellars of this historic building. The menu is
concise, but enticing, primarily consisting of contemporary
updates of Polish standbys like the chicken livers appetiser
and pork chop entree, but we would spring for the duck
breast on rose mousse served with red currant sauce and
corn polenta (56z). Excellent service in an intimate atmosphere from this very professional outfit. Q Open 07:00
- 10:00, 12:00 - 22:00. (39-65z). PTA6UGSW
Ancora C-4, ul. Dominikaska 3, tel. (+48) 12 357

33 55, www.ancora-restaurant.com. A crisply designed
restaurant with bedsheet white walls and table settings,
an open kitchen and carefully tended shrubs guarding the
doorway, Ancora puts itself forward as a smart alternative to Krakws antique-stuffed cellars. Serving creative
contemporary cuisine alongside the requisite Polish dishes
and an awe-inducing 400 bottle wine list, Ancora has consistently won the accolades of many (including that Michelin
bloke) and continues to be one of the citys best spots for a
sophisticated dinner date. QOpen 12:00 - 22:30. (50-72z).
PAGS
Aperitif C-3, ul. Sienna 9, tel. (+48) 12 432 33 33,
www.aperitif.com.pl. This city-centre bargain near May
Rynek features a creamy interior livened by bright orange
tablecloths and garden dining in the back during the summer.
While the atmosphere and interior may invoke the Mediterranean, the 19z lunch menu (Mon-Sat 12:00 - 17:00) isnt
above simple favourites like cheeseburgers. The dinner menu
reveals no lack of creative muscle with dishes like Rabbit
leg caramelized in honey, braised in red wine and plums and
served with roasted vegetables (47z) at affordable prices.
Aperitif is an all round delight. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (2269z). PTAUXSW
Baroque C-2, ul. w. Jana 16, tel. (+48) 12 422 01 06,

www.baroque.com.pl. An attractive modern space thats
created plenty of ripples with a drinks menu that is second
to none including an impressive 100 or so vodkas. But its
not just about drinking, as theres also a menu to peruse that
includes a decent spread of salad, pasta and grilled salmon.
Also a second larger site in Kaz at Plac Nowy 8 (D-6). QOpen
12:00 - 24:00. (19-58z). PAXSW
Coltrane Restaurant & Music Bar B-1, ul. Biskupia
4, tel. (+48) 12 633 05 27. If youre looking to bypass
American frat kids and British rugby teams then head to this
secret den, a sleek and shining jazz haunt situated in an area
completely off the Lonely Planet radar. The design throws
no surprises your way, with the standard collection of black
leather and pics of trumpeters, but the new Mediterraneanleaning menu is worth investigation and the live music aint
bad either, though youll only get to listen to it on the weekend.
QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 24:00.
(26-52z). PAEGSW
Copernicus C-5, ul. Kanonicza 16 (Copernicus Hotel),
tel. (+48) 12 424 34 21, www.hotel.com.pl. Inside one
of Krakws most exclusive hotels youll find one of its most
exclusive restaurants. The menu aims high, and gets results
with gourmet choices that change with the seasons in order
to incorporate fresh local produce as much as possible. As
the menu updates itself, the quality remains constant, and
here youll find one of the best wine lists youve laid eyes on.
Original frescoes still grace the elegant gothic interior where
the aristocratic cuisine has been enjoyed by Nobel prize winners (Miosz, Szymborska) and political dignitaries (Vaclav
Havel, Helmut Kohl). At Copernicus you get what you pay for,
making it easy to recommend for those on a royal budget.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (79-89z). PTAUIGSW
Dominikaska 2 C-4, Pl. Dominikaski 2, tel. (+48)

12 422 07 50, www.restauracja-dominikanska2.pl.
Hung with poster-sized black and whites of interwar Krakw,
this cafe/restaurant aims to present the ancient city in a
modern way. A cafe area with sofa seating is for those who
come for the modestly priced 4z coffee, while a more formal
dining room lures patrons with its Polish and Italian menu.
Kids also get their own menu and play area, and even the
seeing impaired have been considered with Krakws first
braille menu. Unfortunately this guidebook isnt in braille, so
the blind may never find out. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (29-43z).
PTAUEGSW
Dynia Resto Bar A-2, ul. Krupnicza 20, tel. (+48) 12
430 08 38, www.dynia.krakow.pl. Ultra stylish, with a
design that incorporates lots of shining leather, bare bricks
and circular patterns. But the best bit of all is the garden, an
absolutely ace spot festooned with plant life where on Saturday mornings they organise fitness exercises followed by
a fitness menu. The main menu features decent breakfast
options, spaghetti, soups and chicken and pork cooked up
in a variety of ways, as well as a range of low-cal meals for
those whove had enough of popping out of their buttons.
This being Poland, you can expect the staff to look rather
nice as well. QOpen 08:00 - 21:30, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 21:30.
(14-49z). TA6GSW
Figa z Makiem C -2 , ul. S awkowska 10, tel.

(+48) 12 423 76 76, www.figazmakiem.com.pl.
Enter through a beautiful breezeway filled with fresh
flowers, wine bottles, soft lighting, exposed timbers
and an enormous gramophone to discover this Old

Town gem. Though strangely describing its cuisine as
Italian and Hunting, Figa z Makiem delivers an otherwise well-translated menu of rich meat and seafood
dishes that win praise from local carnivores and food
snobs alike. The downstairs is full of romantic nooks
and has some creative decor, but its the ground floor
dining area that we adore for being intimate and elegant
without extravagance. QOpen 13:00 - 23:00. (19-57z).
TA6IGSW
Floriaska C-2, ul. Floriaska 43/6 (first floor), tel.

(+48) 12 421 08 70, www.restauracja-florianska.pl. An
exceptional atmosphere and surprisingly modern aesthetic
is created inside this old building by combining patterned
wallpaper and bold colours with a variety of antiques and
fine table dressings. The menu is international with a slant
towards the Italian end of things, but the in-house speciality - boar stroganoff with rosemary and chanterelles with
courgette-potato cakes - is Polish as can be, and comes
highly recommended. QOpen 13:00 - 23:00. (13-56z).
PTAGSW
Globe Cafe I-4, ul. Marii Konopnickiej 33 (Hilton
Garden Inn Krakw Hotel), tel. (+48) 12 399 90 21,
www.globe.krakow.pl. Globe Caf is a stylish and well put
together bar/restaurant that has the misfortune of facing
perhaps the most aesthetically-displeasing communist
monstrosity in all of Krakow. If you can peel your eyes
away from the abomination out the window to the menu,
youll find a great drinks menu and plenty of good options
for dinner. They are open comparatively late (1am), though
the location is hardly ideal for taking a pit stop during
a pub crawl. Nevertheless, if youre in the area and find
yourself in need of a meal or drink, just grab a seat facing
the interior and enjoy. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. (20-40z).
PTAIGSW
Something good to start the day - a tasty breakfast.

Yummy salads and pastas for lunch.
A cosy and charming place for a delicious dinner.
20 Krupnicza St., Cracow
Phone: 12 430 08 38
www.dynia.krakow.pl
Open:
Mon-Fri 8:00 - 22:00,
Sat-Sun 9:00 - 22:00
59
60
RESTAURANTS
RESTAURANTS
Mita RestoBar A-2, ul. Krupnicza 19a, tel. (+48)
12 380 96 75, www.mietarestobar.pl. The menu is
mostly Italian with a large selection both of salads and pizza.
Chilean or Czech beer give it more of an international flavor,
especially if youre a little overwhelmed by the omnipresence
of Italian cuisine in Krakows centre. The daily menu is also
typically Italian and the prices are what youd expect for its
location. Lots of wood and a green colour-scheme gives the
place a very natural feel and is well complemented by the
outdoor courtyard-style seating area that almost ensures
youll always find a free place, even on popular evenings.
QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. (32-54z).
TA6XSW
Irish Pub Nic Nowego D-3, ul. w. Krzya 15, tel.

(+48) 12 421 61 88, www.nicnowego.com. Our bar of
choice in central Krakow, though theres more to Nic Nowego
than late nights and blank memories. Tom the owner is a chef
by trade, and his menu - which is served right through the
day and well beyond traditional dinner hours - goes above
and beyond pub standards to include great daily soups, a
spicy chili, baguettes and the most authentic Irish breakfast
in town. The food comes complemented by a slick, metallic
interior that buzzes from dawn till closing, and the wifi explains
why youll see so many of the same patrons here during and
after work hours. QOpen 07:00 - 03:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 03:00. (14-24z). TA6GSW
Konik na Biegunach (Rocking Horse) C-4, ul.

Poselska 22, tel. (+48) 12 426 54 40. Deceptively
large with two entrances and a seasonal courtyard garden
Polish Name Days (Imieniny)

In Poland, name days (imieniny) are widely celebrated
and have traditionally been given a greater importance
than birthday celebrations, particularly as one gets on
in years. Printed in every local calendar, these name
days represent the feast days of Catholic saints. Every
day of the year is assigned two saints one male, one
female and chances are if you share a name with a
saint (as almost all Poles do), you too have a Polish name
day. Some names are even repeated more than once in
a calendar year, in which case you celebrate the name
day which falls furthest in the year from your birthday.
Name Day celebrations in Poland are social events,
traditionally involving the gathering of friends and family at the celebrants home or in the bar of their choice.
Differing slightly from western birthday celebrations in
which the celebrant is often seen as a guest of honour
and might expect to be bought drinks all night, in name
day gatherings the celebrant traditionally plays the role
of host, buying drinks for friends and ensuring that guests
are taken care of. In return, guests should bring small
gifts (typically chocolate, flowers or vodka) as you would
on someones birthday. The Polish birthday song Sto Lat
(A Hundred Years) is sung, and its mindless simplicity
might be tempting for foreigners to criticise until they
reflect on just how dreadful the English happy birthday
song actually is. Name Days are so important to Polish
culture that in Krakw, they are prominently displayed
in all of the citys trams, thereby ensuring that you know
who you should be buying flowers for that day; information
that youll find less readily available on these same trams
is the name of the line or the destination of its next stop.
in between, Rocking Horse offers a comfortable hideaway,

suitable for a quiet dinner date or group get-together. In
summer enjoy a glass of wine in the garden where church
bells compete with the stream of an over-zealous fountain,
or retreat to an interior of colour-contrasting rooms curiously tied together by an abundance of very small framed
images of rocking horses in lieu of the real thing (perhaps
extinct since the heyday of the Polish cavalry). One side
is a simple pizzeria, while the other runs the range of Polish grilled specialties, adding some simple pasta dishes
to round things out at this affordable, if not particularly
memorable, restaurant. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (20-50z).
PTA6GSW
Kuchnia i Wino (Cuisine and Wine) D-6, ul. Jzefa

13, tel. (+48) 12 430 67 10, www.kuchniaiwino.eu.
This local favourite offers a quiet, intimate setting for
a romantic dinner just off the bohemian debauchery of
Kazimierzs main square from which you can try to pluck
a date for one of the best meals in the area. Choose from
pork tenderloin in Fourme dAmbert or truffle sauce,
and a host of great seafood dishes. Also on offer - and
recommended - is the sirloin steak with Camembert
sauce or garlic butter. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (27-65z).
TAIGW
Main Square B-3, Rynek Gwny 27, tel. (+48) 12
423 12 41, www.mainsquare.pl. Set in the wonderful
Renaissance-era Paac Pod Baranami (Palace Under the
Sheep), Main Square is a luscious setting steps away
from the bustle of its namesake. Enjoy modern interpretations of Polish and Italian classics in the highly romantic
inner courtyard, or retreat from the weather inside the
minimal, white interior where the wine glasses and fine
table settings do most of the talking in terms of decor.
Prices can only be considered as reasonable considering
the location and surroundings; in fact the lunch menu is
an excellent value offering a club sandwich, fries, salad
and dessert for a paltry 19z. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. (15149z). PTAGSW
Metropolitan C-3, ul. Sawkowska 3, tel. (+48) 12
421 98 03, www.metropolitan-krakow.com. Ten years
on and were still saying it: this is Krakws best breakfast
with a choice of British fry-ups or American-style maple syrup
pancakes to help soak up the liquid indulgences of the night
previous. While the breakfasts are the stuff of legend, Metropolitan is by no means a one trick pony. As the hours tick
by this cosmopolitan, wood-fitted spot fills up with an urbane
crowd taking their pick from a quasi-fusion menu. Best of all
an open kitchen means theres no chance of some jester
choosing to do obscene things to your order. QOpen 07:30
- 23:00, Sun 07:30 - 15:00. (29-64z). PTAGSW
Milk & Co B-4, ul. Straszewskiego 17 (Radisson

Blu Hotel), tel. (+48) 12 618 88 88, www.milkco.
pl. Once youve walked through the very smart bar and
lounge in the swank lobby of the Radisson Hotel, hidden
just behind them you will find the Milk & Co restaurant.
Offering huge buffets in the evening Thurs-Sat 18:0023:00, the an extensive a-la-carte menu for the other
days of the week. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (36-80z).
PTA6UGW
Nova Resto Bar D-6, ul. Estery 18, tel. (+48) 502
29 14 41 , www.novarestobar.pl. A vast canteen
space that makes use of wood partitions to separate
tables and abstract ar t to add to the visual diversions. Theyre not fooling anyone, this eyesore has the
aesthetics of a school dining hall. The foods not that
much better either, the low prices a direct reflection of
the culinary quality. On the plus side Nova isnt a bad
shot if you want a cheap meal that isnt a frozen french
bread pizza or roadkill kebab. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00.
(22-53z). TA6SW
Olive Tree Restro E-6, ul. Kupa 6, tel. (+48) 12
442 77 00, www.theolivetree.pl. At first glance, with
plush violet and grey furniture, the Olive Tree resembles
a fusion between an art gallery and a lounge cafe more
than a simple restaurant. However, once the soft music
sedates you and the food arrives you hardly notice
anything but the plate in front of you. The menu is massive for what seems to be a small restaurant and the
breakfast menu is extensive. As the name may suggest,
Mediterranean cuisine is in the fore and local dishes
hail from France all the way to the falafel and hummus
of the eastern shores. If you insist on something a little
more Central European for dessert, you cant go wrong
with the Austrian strudel. Q Open 12:30-23:00. Note
that the restaurant occasionally closes on Fridays and
Saturdays at sunset for private Shabbat celebrations.
(29-59z). PAEGSW
Opera Cafe Pub Restaurant C -2, ul. w. Jana

10, tel. (+48) 12 422 02 01 , w w w.operakrakow.
p l. G all ons o f pu rpl e an d fu tu risti c glas s b ooth s
u ps t ai r s m a ke O p e ra a re fre s h i n g al te r n a ti ve to
t h e t ri e d a n d s t a l e d e c o r fo r m u l a s. Th e s t a f f i s
tremendousl y friendl y to th e point that th eyll gi ve
you directions to anoth er bar even i f you don t bu y
a drink. Now thats ser vice. Th e music is cool and
lai d -back, compl em entin g th e sophisti cated back
room and i ts rath er astonishing chandelier, not to
mention th e impressi ve array o f cock tails dubbed
the Opera Show. Their menu is trendy both in price
and di versi t y, wi th I talian dish es best represented,
al th ou gh th e d etour to th e Opera Sh ow may well
change your original dinner plans. QOpen 12:00 23:00. (14-42 z). P A X S W
61
62
RESTAURANTS
New Years Parties
New Years Eve in Radisson Blu Hotel

B-4, Radisson Blu, ul. Straszewskiego 17, tel. (+48)
12 618 88 88, www.radissonblu.com. With a reputation for throwing killer parties, Radisson Blu comes to
the table with a few options to suit everyone. 400z per
person gets you their famous surf n turf buffet dinner,
plus dance-party DJs and decorations. Families with
children have been considered also with a simultaneous New Years Eve Ball for kids with fun and games, a
buffet and beds for those who get tuckered out before
2012 (75z per child). For 1300z per couple, you can
spend the night in the hotel after the dinner and dance
party; includes breakfast the next day, plus access to
the fitness centre and sauna. Q Reservations: (+48)
12 618 88 88.
31.12 Saturday
New Years Eve at the Main Market Square

C-3, Main Market Square, www.wownight.eu. After
years of hosting the biggest New Years Eve party in PL,
Krakws City Council has made the rather shocking
decision to save money and forego the whole thing.
Thats fine with us, because past performers like Shakin
Stevens, Leona Lewis and last years Kelis never did much
for us anyway and with crowds around 150,000 on the
market square it was almost impossible if not downright
dangerous to cross. Despite the concerts cancellation,
the 200kg fireworks show must go on, preceded by an address from the president before starting at - you guessed
it - the first minute of the new year.QEvent starts at 23:45.
Admission free.
31.12 Saturday
New Years Eve at the Galaxy

K-3, Galaxy, ul. Gsia 22a, www.galaxyhotel.pl. The
Hotel Galaxy gives you the chance to bring in the new
year in one of three ways: with a quiet dinner and glass
of champagne, dinner plus an all-night party, or dinner
plus all-night party with an overnight stay in the hotel.
The first option is in the Andromeda restaurant and costs
120z per person. If you want to dance and drink more,
up the stakes to 280z per person which lets you party
into the morning with an all night menu, wine or vodka,
dance music and lots of surprises in the banquet hall. The
third option includes the party and a night in a Business
Class room, with access to jacuzzi, fitness, SPA (head
massage, sauna, bath) and late breakfast and lunch
with checkout at 15:00. The cost is a reasonable 690z
per person.QEvent starts at 19:00. Price 120-690z.
Reservations on (+48) 12 342 81 00.
31.12 Saturday
New Years Eve in Milano Restaurant

C-3, Milano, Rynek Gwny 42/ul. w. Jana 1 (Paac
Bonerowski Hotel), www.milanokrakow.pl. This
party will occupy three levels of the historic Bonerowski
Palace on the market square, with an Italian theme that
includes live music and DJs, a hot Italian food buffet all
night, a free bottle of wine or vodka per couple upon arrival, discount drinks all night and a complimentary bottle
of Perfecto cava (a Spanish sparkling wine) per couple
at midnight. Q Time was undecided at the press time.
Please check our website for updates. Price 350z per
person. Reservations: (+48) 12 374 13 00.
Padre B-3, ul. Wilna 11, (entrance from ul. Olszewskiego), tel. (+48) 12 422 08 66, www.restauracjapadre.pl. Arranging the marriage of Indian and Italian
food, Padres menu features both pastas and curries. With
coloured lamps and twinkling treasures, the cellar has all
the atmosphere of an underwater grotto, only the golden
oldies that get airplay detract from the mysticism. In spite
of a hidden off-Rynek location this place seems a bit of an
open secret, its garden and subterranean chambers packed
throughout the day thanks to the reputation of the solid Indian
offerings and reasonable prices. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (1444z). TA6GS
Pod R (Under the Rose) C-2, ul. Floriaska 14

(Pod R Hotel), tel. (+48) 12 424 33 81, www.lhr.
com.pl. Excellent Polish and European cuisine served under
a glass-covered atrium in the Pod R hotel. A piano sits
on a raised platform, and higher up theres a balcony with
tables overlooking the main floor. The menu features a
veritable list of birds and forest animals, including a rather
tasty dead bambi. Prices are high for Krakow, but then so
are the standards. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (35-89z). PT
JAUEGSW
Restauracja Alrina E-7, Bulwar Kurlandzki (near

the terminus of ul. Gazowa), tel. (+48) 668 82 04 54,
www.alrina.pl. If youre thinking of boarding one of the
several dining vessels along the Wisa River, make it Alrina.
This Dutch cargo barge dates back to 1889 and was once
significant enough to the history of water transport to find
itself featured on a Dutch postage stamp. Since then it has
been modernised by Polish craftsmen, with some rather
thrilling results. Descend into the spacious hold refitted with
wooden floors, a sculpted bar, fireplace and skylights that
let in plenty of natural light. The cocktail and wine lists are
duly impressive, and the menu of creative designer food is
thoroughly enjoyable. Utterly elegant and skilfully stylish,
climb aboard and become an instant socialite. QOpen
13:00 - 23:00. (36-69z). PTA6GSW
Restauracja Unicus C-2, ul. w. Marka 20 (Unicus
Hotel), tel. (+48) 12 433 71 27, www.hotelunicus.pl.
Award-winning Polish chef Rafal Targosz oversees an enticing
range of predominantly Polish dishes in this recommended,
atmospheric hotel-based cellar restaurant. Among the many
interesting treats populating the excellent value menu is a
splendid candied duck leg with ginger. For those who cant
afford the airfare, the restaurant website boasts one of Mr.
Targoszs legendary recipes. QOpen 14:00 - 22:00. (3579z). PTAGW
Restaurant Cafe Oraneria (Orangery Cafe) A-5,
Pl. Kossaka 1, tel. (+48) 12 379 59 50, www.cafeoranzeria.pl. Featuring marvellous views of Wawel, this classic
venue starts the day with a wide selection of breakfasts
including bacon and eggs and the good international food just
keeps on coming. More than just a place to eat and drink, the
seasonal rooftop terrace is one of the few places in town in
which to soak up the citys atmosphere whilst taking in one
of the best views around. Q Open 10:00 - 23:00. (36-72z).
PTA6GSW
Restaurant No. 7 C-3, Rynek Gwny 7, tel. (+48)
607 97 47 97, www.restauracja.number7.pl. If you were
unambitious enough, you could actually spend your entire
stay in Krakw in this single building. Number 7 (its address
on the Rynek) also houses a trendy bar and a hostel of the
same name, plus the restaurant features outdoor seating
in the summer, allowing you to cover your three basic needs,
plus some sightseeing, all in one prime location. The under-
64
RESTAURANTS
Local Likes & Dislikes
In June 2011, Polands Gazeta Wyborcza newspaper
invited journalism students from London to visit the
countrys largest cities and chronicle their experiences as
tourists. Dubbed Misja 21 (Mission 21), in addition to having the foreign students constantly blogging about their
daily experiences in PL, the project also elicited excited
input from local residents, including their votes on the
top five likes and dislikes in their own cities. More about
Misja 21 can be found at misja21.blox.pl, while below
weve listed what the locals had to say about Krakw:
Top 5 Likes:
Wieliczka salt mine. Topping the list is one of Maopolskas
most popular and oft-visited attractions. Spectacular enough
to make the first cut of UNESCO-inducted world attractions,
its worth noting how proud Cracovians are of Wieliczka,
despite the fact that its not even in Krakw.
View of the Market Square from St. Marys Basilica
tower. Interesting choice since the tower is not open to
the public, hence almost no one enjoys this view. Go to
the balcony of the Sukiennices Caf Sza instead (C-3).
New museums: Schindlers Factory, Museum of Contemporary Art, Rynek Underground. The investment that Krakw
has made in culture the past few years has been astounding
and these three museums are top-notch. See Podgrze for the
first two, and our box in What To See for the third.
The Wisa River Boulevards. A fantastic place to stroll,
cycle or sunbathe in summertime.
Plac Nowy. Why do people like Plac Nowy (D-6)? In addition to its historical significance, great bars, and the best
zapiekanki in PL, wed like to think that part of it might be
due to the fact that this Kazimierz market is one of the
only squares left in Krakw that hasnt been recently
sanitised by renovation. Plans have been drawn to drastically alter Plac Nowy, but hopefully this endorsement
will continue to encourage second thoughts about the
project. Turn to our box in the Kazimierz section for more.
Top 5 Dislikes:
Main train station and surrounding area. Currently
under construction and very inconvenient, this ranking
is likely also a reaction against the building of Galeria
Krakowska, which has turned the entire area into a
confusing shopping mall maze.
Horse-drawn carriages and melex cars. Personally,
weve nothing against the horse-drawn carriages, we
just cant understand why not a single one of them
has come up with the obvious concept of including an
English-language tour with the route. If you want information about what youre seeing, you have to hop on one of
the electric cart (melex) tours, of which we agree there
are way too many, and they are completely obnoxious.
Szewska Street by night. One of the Old Towns main
clubbing streets (B-3), you have to sleep in the bed you
make here, people.
Czesaw Dwigajs monuments. Likely a reaction against
the favouritism shown by City Council in awarding every
monument commission to this professor of the Academy
of Fine Art in Krakw. Recently known for the unpopular
monument of Pisudski on ul. Retoryka (A-3) and numerous
sculptures of Pope JPII all over the country and abroad.
Skeletor. Krakws tallest building at 92 metres, the construction of this skyscraper (located near Rondo Mogilska,
K-2) was aborted in 1981 due to economic constraints. A
horrible blight on the skyline, the building became known as
Skeletor for its concrete framework resembling a skeleton,
and today is used as an advertising billboard in addition to
being symbolic of the success of the Soviet-era in PL.
RESTAURANTS
ground restaurant has familiar but tasteful red, black and
white styling, marble and cream-coloured walls, and Sade
softly singing in the background. Good prices, especially for
a classy restaurant on the market square. QOpen 12:00 23:00. (20-58z). PTAEGS
Resto Illuminati C-3, ul. Gobia 2, tel. (+48) 12

430 73 73, www.restoilluminati.pl. Though the name
comes off as a tad trendy and eager to be elite, Illuminatis
connotations of smart, secretive and ancient recipes are an
apt portrayal of this attractive restaurant hedging modern
Warsaw style into a medieval Krakw setting. Most enjoyable and undervalued is the ability to dine in ancient vaulted
brick surroundings without being buried underground in a
windowless crypt. Check the wall-length blackboard for daily
specials before considering roast fillet of lamb, with date,
spinach and pine nut stuffing, wrapped in Serrano ham
with carrot and parsnip puree and croquette potatoes. Oh
yes. Also worth checking out are their daily lunch specials
served 12:00 - 16:00 and from January theyll be open at
8:00 for breakfast. Reassuringly theres no need for blood
rites to be a regular. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (35-62z).
PTA6EGSW
Rubinstein E-6, ul. Szeroka 12 (Rubinstein Hotel),

tel. (+48) 12 384 00 00, www.restauracja.rubinstein.
pl. Rubinstein is in the heart of the Jewish quarter and is just
across the way from the Krakows historic Jewish Cemetery.
With a huge outdoor seating area youre unlikely to ever
have any trouble finding a spot and the service is attentive
to say the least. Perhaps because the restaurants hotel
namesake includes a full bar, the drink menu is probably
twice as big as that of food, but the menu offers quite an
array of international dishes and (as is increasingly the
case in Krakow) has quite a few Italian dishes. From 07:00
- 11:00 each morning they offer an American/English style
breakfast with a buffet option. QOpen 06:30 - 22:00. (1778z). PTAEGW
Scandale Royal B-2, Pl. Szczepaski 2, tel. (+48)
12 422 13 33, www.scandale.pl. Scandale Royal
successfully skirts the line between lounge, cafe and
bistro by being one of the most stylish places to be all
day and night. In more shades of violet than we knew
possible, it nonetheless stays well-lit and inviting thanks
to wall-length windows and a massive chandelier bisecting the two floors like a fragile firepole. On the card youll
find salads, pastas, and meat dishes to taste, with
proper breakfast in the mornings and an after 22:00
menu (featuring tapas) late night, when ever y thing
inside from the cushions to the clientele looks edible.
QOpen 07:30 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:30 - 02:00. (18-57z).
PTAUXSW
Studio Qulinarne E-7, ul. Gazowa 4, tel. (+48) 12 430
69 14, www.studioqulinarne.pl. Housed inside an old bus
hangar on the site of the City Engineering Museum, Studio
Qulinarne has taken this airy industrial interior of bricks and
timbers and turned it into one of Krakws most elegant dining destinations. Potted plants and illuminated white drapes
cleverly hang between fine table settings with refreshingly
mismatched 18th century chairs as a pianist plays in the
main dining area. The air of exclusivity is diffused by walllength windows opening onto the street in fair weather, and
the summer garden full of greenery and futons is one of the
most comfortable places for a cocktail in town. The menu
ranges from affordable pasta dishes to pricey exotic game,
and we can recommend not only the deer, but the entire experience. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 23:00.
(23-75z). TA6UEGSW
Szara C-3, Rynek Gwny 6, tel. (+48) 12 421 66 69,

www.szara.pl. An important looking restaurant which
seems to draw most tourists at least once during their
visit. Vaulted ceilings, crisp linen and an atmosphere of
complete elegance make it a great venue for your special
last night meal, and the food rarely disappoints. Choose
from dishes like Planksteak with Bearnaise sauce in what
has come to be known as one of the cornerstones of
Krakws culinary scene. An excellent breakfast (8:0012:00) destination as well. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. (4183z). PTAUGSW
Szara Kazimierz E-6, ul. Szeroka 39, tel. (+48) 12
429 12 19, www.szarakazimierz.pl. Opening after
its sister establishment on the Rynek, the second Szara
achieved Krakw legend status just as quickly. What
makes it so special is not the location on Szeroka, nor the
swift and bubbly staff, but the food: nowhere in the city
can you eat so well for so little. This is top cuisine - try the
daily specials chalked up on the blackboard - yet it comes
in at bargain prices. Simple, affordable and very cheerful.
All of Krakw should be like this. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00.
(27-58z). PTAGSW
The Olive A-5, ul. Powile 7 (Sheraton Krakw

Hotel), tel. (+48) 12 662 16 60, www.sheraton.
com/krakow. Top class Mediterranean dishes served
inside the imperial environs of the Sheraton. The glass
roof makes it possible to dine under the stars while the
foliage dotted around adds to the al fresco atmosphere.
The best ingredients money can buy are complemented
by graceful service and some superb live piano. Fine dining at its best. And if Sunday Brunch is your thing come
by between 12:00-17:00, where a buffet (wine included)
costs 135z per person with children under-10 free and
under-17s half price. Q Open 06:30 -10:30, 12:00 - 16:00,
18:00 - 22:30, Sat 07:00 - 10:30, 12:00 - 16:00, 18:00 22:30, Sun 07:00 - 10:30, 12:00 - 17:00, 18:00 - 22:30.
(30-94z). PTAUEGW
The Piano Rouge C - 3, Rynek Gwny 46, tel.

(+48) 12 431 03 33, www.thepianorouge.com. A
sensory delight with crimson flourishes, feathery boas
and gilt picture frames providing an air of Parisian
decadence. A private members area and a pair of
black-suited door police add an air of exclusivity while
the live jazz concerts performed every evening are worth
the visit alone. The high-end, high-quality European
dishes are an added bonus, and brought to you by a
busy team of beautiful waitresses dressed in evening
wear. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (2849z). AEGS
Make a day
of it
Brunch at Sheraton Krakow Hotel gives
you time for the people that really matter.
Savour our sumptuous buffet and listen to
the Live Jazz in the unique atmosphere
of a glass roof Atrium. Bring the whole
family as children can enjoy a Special
Kids corner.
Price
135
PLN
per person
including selection
of beverages
Touch Inn J-4, ul. Jzefiska 2, tel. (+48) 504 15

70 53, www.touchinn.pl. Welcome to Touch Inn, the
first place in Krakw to combine going out to eat with
gadgetry. How it works: Each table has a touch screen
virtual menu so you can place your order without the
inconvenience of personal service. After youve ordered,
you can use the gizmo to add additional items or ask for
the bill at any time, or why not browse the internet? In that
sense, Touch Inn is the fanciest internet cafe weve ever
been in, but hardly a place wed want to take a date for a
nice meal. The modern upscale lounge interior does not
suit this elegantly restored tenement inside the former
Jewish Ghetto, and though an enormous amount of money
has been spent here to bravely create the first place of its
kind in town, we wouldnt be surprised if it was also the
last. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 24:00.
(14-45z). PTA6UXSW
Jazzy Sunday Brunch

at The Olive Restaurant 12 PM to 5 PM
ul. Powile 7
31-101 Krakw
t +48 12 662 1000
sheraton.com/krakow
Summer Break in July and August.
65
66
RESTAURANTS
RESTAURANTS
Trufla C-2, ul. w. Tomasza 2, tel. (+48) 12 422 16 41. The
Krakow dining scene continues to improve and this cosy place at
the Pl. Szczepanski end of Tomasza Street is a good example. In
the past this spot would have been a standout, but now it has more
competition. Trufla sets itself apart by offering a good meal, and one
of the few to be had at such a good price. A simple, predominantly
white decor with wooden furniture allows you to relax while interpreting the stylistically pleasing yet difficult to decipher handwritten
cursive menu of classic Italian dishes. The open kitchen lets you
in on the creative cooking process and the year-round garden with its small Japanese-style garden and fountain - is one of the
most gorgeous youll find. With limited tables inside and out, plus
Truflas loyal band of followers, reservations might be wise. QOpen
09:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. (16-60z). AGSW
Trzy Rybki C-2, ul. Szczepaska 5 (Stary Hotel), tel. (+48)

12 384 08 06, www.lhr.com.pl. Hotel Stary won an interior
design award in 2007 and the interiors of its ace restaurant
are no less awe-inspiring, balancing the modern with finely
preserved details of this ancient building. Serving fine Modern
European cuisine with a Polish twist, the menu changes like the
seasons - or with them, rather, meaning a steady effort from the
kitchen to use the freshest ingredients. Favoured by high-flyers
and local business honchos who have been regulars for years,
try wonderful dishes such as deer sirloin in port wine sauce
served with cauliflower and brussels sprouts. A Krakw gem.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (75-85z). PTA6UGSW
Vanilla Sky H-4, ul. Flisacka 3 (Hotel Art Niebieski &

SPA), tel. (+48) 12 297 40 05, www.vanilla-sky.pl. The
flagship restaurant of the 5-blinger Art Hotel Niebieski, Vanilla
Sky takes a healthy approach as one of the citys only restaurants to get all of their ingredients from certified organic sources,
and the chef has constructed a tantalising menu of Italian and
Polish influenced fusion dishes that will make you want to happily
commit to the eco-craze. Choose between options like pumpkin
cream soup with veal meatballs or Argentinian steak served
with Paris baguette and Provencal vegetables. Set in the centre
of a spacious dining room on the hotels third floor, the welldressed tables circle a gorgeous Yamaha Grand Touch piano
on which live concerts are given by a local maestro Wednesday
to Saturday from 19:30-21:30 and Sunday from 14:00-16:00.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (39-69z). PTAUEGSW
Wentzl C-3, Rynek Gwny 19, tel. (+48) 12 429 52 99,

www.wentzl.pl. In the upstairs of an historical 15th century
building on Krakws market square (nice view, huh?), Wentzl itself
can trace its lineage back to the 18th century. Today its one of
the citys most exclusive and elegant eating establishments,
highlighted by fine service, timber ceilings and a collection of noteworthy paintings from including some reproductions of the work
of Tadeusz Makowski or original paintings by Jzef Mehoffer. The
real masterpiece will be on your plate, however, and presented to
impress. Dishes like fillet of venison on fresh rosemary with a morel
mushroom sauce are worth every zoty, and the view of Mariacki
is free. QOpen 13:00 - 23:00. (54-69z). PTAUGSW
Italian
Al Dente E-6, ul. Kupa 12, tel. (+48) 12 430 04 18,
www.aldente-krakow.com. A light and airy room with a
cream and modern look. This is where the local sophisticates
have been seen heading, drawn no doubt by Sardinian cuisine
prepared by the imported chef. Authenticity is topped off by
the ingredients, most of which come shipped direct from Italy.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (22-55z). TAGSW
Amarone C-2, ul. Floriaska 14 (Pod R Hotel), tel.

(+48) 12 424 33 81, www.lhr.com.pl. This is upmarket
Italian food served to an increasingly discerning audience, all
of whom appear to know exactly what they are ordering and
how it should be cooked. Pressure is on then, but the Amarone
boys come through every time. This is a superb restaurant,
with a setting to match - under a giant glass covered skylight.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (35-69z). PTJAUGSW
Aqua e Vino B-3, ul. Wilna 5/10, tel. (+48) 12 421
25 67, www.aquaevino.pl. Still as exciting as the day it
opened. Italian owned, this chic cellar space comes decorated in a minimalist style with cream and black colour combinations, and an atmosphere redolent of downtown Milan.
Half restaurant, half lounge bar, the beautifully presented
dishes come cooked up by house chef Francesco. Earning
rave reviews from all corners, this merits a place on any
must visit list you may be keeping. QOpen 12:00 - 22:45.
(22-56z). PTAGSW
Avanti Ristorante B-2, ul. Karmelicka 7, tel. (+48) 12
430 07 70, www.avanti.krakow.pl. This elegant Romanthemed cellar restaurant has all the right touches - candlelight,
fine table settings and formal service - for a quiet, romantic
meal if you dont mind dining beside a bust of Caesar. The
food is as simple and authentic as it comes with a handsome
range of pasta, fish and other Italian classics. Observe that
portions are small and may leave you expecting more if you
dont splurge and follow the first course-second course system. Often overlooked down a corridor across from Bagatela
Theatre that actually hides three fantastic venues, the handsomely modern ground floor orangerie has a similar menu and
lovely garden, and theres now a new Italian ice cream parlour
and cafe called Tiamo. All three are impressive and worthy of
exploration. QOpen 15:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00.
Closed Mon. (22-120z). PTAXSW
Carlito C-2, ul. Floriaska 28, tel. (+48) 12 429 19

12, www.restauracjacarlito.pl. Even amongst all the neon
kebab signs and stalls selling fluffy dragons manufactured in
China, Carlito still manages to stick out like a sore thumb. This
space is positively huge upstairs and down - including a fantastic rooftop terrace overlooking Floriaska - and dolled up
to look like a traditional, if not slightly tacky, trattoria with the
quintessential burnt sienna walls, wine bottles, chandeliers
and sculptures. Its casual dining well-suited to large groups
in this tourist magnet serving the full galaxy of Italian dishes,
with particular attention paid to the popular thin crust pizza
prepared in plain view at one end of the restaurant. QOpen
10:00 - 23:00. (16-56z). PTAUGS
Cosa Nostra E-6, ul. Dajwr 25, tel. (+48) 12 429 00
97, www.cosanostra.krakow.pl. Naming a restaurant in
honour of a crime syndicate responsible for common terror
seems a little odd. Still the mafia are always a good gimmick,
and its certainly a better idea than launching a restaurant
with an Idi Amin theme. Located on a less travelled corner
of Kazimierz this restaurant features exposed brick walls,
rough plastering and an informal trattoria ambience perfect
for planning the messy demise of sworn enemies. On the
menu everything from simple pizzas to more complicated
main courses with wine suggestions added thoughtfully below. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (14-65z). TA6UXSW
Winoteka Winoman C-2, ul. w. Tomasza 7, tel. (+48) 12

422 10 28, www.winoman.com.pl. Winoman is a hidden haven
in the Old Town for wine enthusiasts. Their wines from all the most
popular wine-countries of the world draw you in, and the food to go
along with them may well bring you back. By the glass (100ml), the
fillette (375ml) or the bottle, prices generally range from 21-67z
and the variety is extensive. The lunch menu features a glass, of
course, and the menu is largely Italian with a little seafood and
Polish cuisine as well. From the soft jazz music to the bottle-laden
rustic interior, the ambience is a wine connoisseurs dream. And
on the menu each entree comes with a couple of accompanying
wine recommendations to help those having trouble making that
final choice. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (25-49z). A6GSW
ristorante pizzeria caff
Krakw, ul. Starowilna 15A

Paac Pugetw
tel: 12 429 51 41
www.ilcalzone.pl
www.facebook.com/ilcalzone
e-mail: ilcalzone@ilcalzone.pl
HOURS OF OPERATION:
SUNDAY-THURSDAY
12 p.m.-10 p.m.
FRIDAY-SATURDAY
12 p.m.-12 a.m.
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RESTAURANTS
RESTAURANTS
Quick Eats
Asia to Go B-3, ul. Szewska 27, tel. (+48) 12 422
04 16, www.asiatogo.pl. From the same folks as the
admirable Portobello, this chain of fast food stands is not
nearly as authentic, but they have been trying harder lately
by expanding their menu to include samosas, won-tons
and wraps. Their primary dish is two pre-prepared woks full
of chicken and veggies, one with rice and one with noodles;
choose your size of takeaway box, pick between rice or
noodles, select a sauce and then top it with crunchy onions
or sesame seeds. Cheap, fast and filling, if not particularly
ambitious, its also open late. Also at ul. w. Tomasza 19
(C-3), ul. Grodzka 28 (C-4) and ul. Estery 12 (D-6). QOpen
10:00 - 24:00. (7-18z). AUGSW
Chimera Salad Bar B-3, ul. w. Anny 3, tel. (+48)
12 292 12 12, www.chimera.com.pl. This beautiful
courtyard buffet has been sealed off from the elements
and now overflows with ambience year round. Full of potted plants, climbing ivy, natural sunlight, and surrealistic
murals, Chimeras Salad Bar may be the most pleasant
budget dining environment in town; unfortunately it tends
to overshadow the food a bit. Choose a plate for four or
six portions, say prosz and point at your pick of the
salads, quiche, stuffed peppers and more. Its not the
best veggie fare in town, but its fast, easy, cheap and
a great place to relax and theyve now got a lunch set
for 20-30z QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00.
(12-24z). TA6GSW
COCA E-6, ul. Kupa 3, tel. (+48) 791 20 03 03.

Little more than a sidewalk stand tucked one street
removed from Plac Nowy - Krakws fast food focal
point - this small eatery serves fantastic freshly made
Sicilian food. The arancino - breaded rice balls filled
with ragu (recommended) or spinach (7z) are delicious
and duly popular. Or try the stuffed Sicilian pancakes,
salads or home-made pastas topped with different
sauces every day. Authentic as possible, the endearing
owner speaks Italian only and frequently hands out
freebies. The menu is flexible day to day, but Thursdays
are reserved for arancino and Wednesdays for cannoli.
Get their early or fuggedaboutit. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00,
Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon.
(10-20z). P6GS
McDonalds D-2, ul. Floriaska 55, tel. (+48) 694
49 59 35, www.mcdonalds.pl. Also at ul. Pawia 5 (D2, Galeria Krakowska) and ul. Szewska 2 (B-3). QOpen
07:00 - 02:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 04:00. (15-18z).
PTAGSW
U Stasi D-3, ul. Mikoajska 16, tel. (+48) 12 421

50 84. If youre looking for a truly authentic local dining
experience, you simply cant do better than U Stasi.
This tiny, inconspicuous cafeteria tucked in a courtyard
(past the pizza place) serves simple home-cooked Polish food at shockingly cheap prices. Being family-owned
(80 years and counting) with table service and English
menus, eliminates it from contention as a true milk bar,
but those are about the only differences. Impossible for
groups, if you can find a place to sit at all, youll be doing it
in silence at a table of students, pensioners, professors,
and homeless people. The plum pierogi are delicious and
the experience is simply priceless. Arrive before 14:00
to avoid eating the last thing left on the menu. QOpen
12:30 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. (9-18z). PGS
Da Pietro C-3, Rynek Gwny 17, tel. (+48) 12 422

32 79, www.dapietro.pl. A dark network of rooms
decorated with black and white pictures of Romes
Colosseum, and tables laid with candles and silverware
await you inside this cellar restaurant. Portions are
enormous, and the spaghetti comes heaped with garlic,
capers, olives and anchovies, and accompanied by a tray
of bread and olive oil. QOpen 12:30 - 23:45. (39-72z).
PTA6XSW
Delecta J-4, ul. Limanowskiego 11, tel. (+48) 12 423
50 01, www.restauracja-delecta.pl. As of yet, there
simply arent many good places to eat in Podgrze, making
this one of your best options if youre searching for dinner
in the area. A warm, comfortable trattoria with wooden
tables, spice garlands, a fireplace and a large pizza chef
working in one corner, Delecta offers simple, affordable
Italian and Polish food in an intimate setting without any
heavy-handed formalities. The pizzas are good, the smell
of olive oil and rosemary hits you as soon as you walk in
the door, and there have been times when we didnt want
to leave. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 23:00.
(18-46z). PTA6IXS
May Rynek 2
Fabryka Pizzy (Pizza Factory) E-6, ul. Jzefa 34,

tel. (+48) 12 433 80 80, www.fabrykapizzy.pl. Often
rated as Krakws best pizza, Fabryka has expanded to
a commanding four locations throughout the city since
starting as a project of students at the Economic University some years ago. The secret isnt the pleasant
wooden and brick interiors or the slightly precious prices;
clearly its in the ingredients and the list of premium
toppings unheard of in other pizza joints, including feta,
camember t, roquefor t, capers, mussels, crabmeat,
beans and Tabasco (!!!) to name a few. The cherry on
this sundae, however, is the arrival of extra marinara
sauce with the pie - a mind-blowing event for anyone
now grown accustomed to the unilateral substitution of
cheap, translucent ketchup for red sauce. If thats not
amore, well, we dont know what is... Also in the centre
at (C-2) ul. Sawkowska 3 and (J-2) ul. Lubomirskiego 41.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (15-30z).
PTAGSW
Il Calzone D-4, ul. Starowilna 15a, tel. (+48) 12 429

51 41, www.ilcalzone.pl. Tucked behind the Pugetw
Palace, this veteran trattoria continues to impart the cornerstones of Italian cooking - from pizza and calzones to
gnocchi and fresh tortiglioni - now extending themselves
to new favourites like pork ribs roasted in balsamic coating (34z). Combining sophisticated service with a casual
atmosphere, dine in an interior of colourful photos of Italy,
stout wooden tables and a timber ceiling, or enjoy the terrace
seating in short-sleeve weather. Reliably recommendable.
QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (15-44z).
PTAUGBSW
Il Forno C-3, ul. May Rynek 2, tel. (+48) 12 421

64 98, www.shisha.pl. In a city where every other restaurant seems to serve Italian food, Il Forno has nothing
to be ashamed of. Alongside a lengthy and popular list
of pizzas are great pasta dishes, including some spicy
numbers, and they all come topped with fresh parmesan
cheese. The interior is simple, slightly old-fashioned and
nothing special really (which cannot be said about the
exotic downstairs Shisha Club where the restrooms are
located), but Il Forno is the beneficiary of a great location
with outdoor seating on May Rynek that is typically full in
fine weather. Take advantage if you can. QOpen 12:00 23:00. TAXW
FEATURING:
DELICIOUS HOMEMADE
PIZZA&PASTAS
FULL ITALIAN FARE AT AFFORDABLE
PRICES
HEAVENLY DESSERTS
SPACIOUS INTERIOR: LARGE PARTIES
WELCOME!
EXCELLENT LOCATION IN THE MIDDLE OF THE KRAKOWS OLD TOWN
MAY RYNEK 2, TEL. 12 421 64 98
FIND MORE AT WWW.ILFORNO.PL
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RESTAURANTS
RESTAURANTS
InVito Pizza & Pasta D-3, ul. w.Tomasza 33, tel. (+48)
Ul. w. Tomasza 33
tel. (+48) 12 421 30 92
Open: 11:00 23:00
Fri Sat : 11:00 24:00
www.invitopizza.pl
email: krakow@invitopizza.pl
12 421 30 92, www.invitopizza.pl. The concept here is

as simple as the food: a stylish interior with a comfortable
atmosphere in which to enjoy good company and affordable
food. The decor nicely balances touchstones of a casual, rustic
trattoria with the elegance of numerous wine racks and classic
black and white Belle Epoque photos, thereby outshining the
menu which is little more than a concise list of budget pizzas
and do it at home pasta dishes that come out of the kitchen
quickly. With cute students on the orders, queens Nina Simone
and E. Badu on the stereo and low totals on the bill at the end,
theres really not much to disagree with. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00,
Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. (15-33z). TAUGSW
La Campana Trattoria C-4, ul. Kanonicza 7, tel. (+48)
Don't choose
between authentic
and affordable ...
we'll give you both.
Pczki
Pressing on in our semi-encyclopedic review of Polish
cuisine brings us to pczki (singular = pczek). These
traditional round deep-fried doughnuts have been
known in PL since the Middle Ages, earning the status
of the nations number one pastry. Pczki are typically
filled with confiture (rose jam or other marmalades),
glazed with sugar and sometimes topped with a few
pieces of candied orange peel. Similar to American
jelly doughnuts, the main difference is American
doughnuts penchant for squirting the eater with
disgusting jelly and Polands conservative tendencies
ensuring there is only a drop of marmalade in the
centre somewhere, which an elaborate game could
be made around trying to find.
So beloved are pczki in Poland that they have their
own holiday. Known as Fat Thursday (Tusty Czwartek in Polish), it is tradition to eat pczki on the
last Thursday before Lent (known locally as Wielki
Post). The number of doughnuts made and consumed
in Poland on Fat Thursday is truly astronomical and
visitors to PL on this day should not be surprised to
see people queuing around the corner (a separate
Polish tradition) from the local bakery in order to
purchase the beloved doughballs. The tradition of
this feast day was borne out the need to use up all
of a households lard, sugar, eggs and fruit before
Lent, during which time abiding Catholics should be
fasting. This year Fat Thursday falls on February
16th, but pczki can be purchased in any bakery
(cukierna) any day of the year.
12 430 22 32, www.lacampana.pl. Planted on picturesque

Kanonicza street, La Campana Trattoria is a completely different restaurant in summertime when its worth visiting just to
relax in the gorgeous ivy-green garden and cobbled patio: full
of sunlight and singing birds, it may be the best dining environment in Krakw. In winter, retreat to the small, warm interior of
unfinished wood and wine bottles and dream of better weather.
From the same tried and true team behind Mid Malina and
Wesele - two of our favourites (and the Michelin Guide agrees)
- the pastas and risottos are as good as youd expect, and
theyre pleasantly preceded by a bowl of unshelled peanuts.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (16-52z). TAGS
Leonardo D-3, ul. Szpitalna 20-22, tel. (+48) 12 432 22

55, www.leonardo.com.pl. An elegant, spiral staircase descends past a glass waterfall to reveal a series of dining rooms,
including one filled with Da Vincis scientific sketches and another
crammed with hams hanging from the ceiling and jars of pickles,
evoking a provincial kitchen atmosphere. Country furniture and
knick knacks set the mood as the Italian and Polish main courses
are being prepared. Using hand-picked ingredients the kitchen
staff create some of the best meals in the region, including a
superb deer with mushroom ravioli and red wine sauce. Serving
fresh fish on Thursday and Friday and a well-priced lunch menu
(12-18zl) between 12:00 and 17:00 this serves as a highly
romantic spot for couples on a weekend break, while a private,
cottage-style room may be reserved by larger groups. QOpen
12:00 - 23:00. (21-79z). PTAUGSW
Mamma Mia B-2, ul. Karmelicka 14, tel. (+48) 12 430

04 92, www.mammamia.net.pl. Find Krakws best pizza
dispatched from a traditional wood-fired oven and the choice
of numerous other Italian standards prove Mamma Mia is
more than a one trick pony. The interior - clever lighting and
exposed bricks - makes a cool backdrop for casual dining,
and their army of regulars are testament to Mamma Mias
growing reputation, even luring them in for breakfast (served
07:00-12:00, Sat 08:00-12:00 Sun 09:00-12:00) with
sandwiches and muffins. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sat 08:00
- 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. (14-43z). PTAUGS
Milano C-3, Rynek Gwny 42/ul. w. Jana 1 (Paac
Bonerowski Hotel), tel. (+48) 12 374 13 00, www.
milanokrakow.pl. Housed in perhaps the most magnificent
building on the market square, just a stones throw from
the Cloth Hall, Milano is a classy and smart dining option. A
small collection of intimate rooms decorated with all manner
of oddities including a rocking horse provide ample opportunity to tuck into a fine range of Italian and international
dishes. The clientele is mixed albeit mostly well-heeled,
whilst the almost inaudible music comes as an extremely
pleasant surprise in whats becoming an increasingly noisy
city. All in all a great choice for pushing the culinary boat
out when youre in town. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (29-119z).
PTA6UGSW
Papryczki 5 D-3, ul. Mikoajska 5, tel. (+48) 12 422

04 45. One of the best trends in Krakow, of late, is whats
happening just off the main square. Only a minutes walk
from the Rynek, prices drop a bit and the service goes up.
Papryczki 5 is part Italian restaurant, part pizza joint, but utterly romantic. Its certainly not pretending to be something
on the front of the menu then offering Polish food the rest
of the menu. Pizzas are oven baked with paper-thin crust
and served piping hot. Best of all, your wallet will think you
were miles from the centre. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (17-45z).
TAUGSW
Pizzeria Cyklop D-3, ul. Mikoajska 16, tel. (+48)

12 421 66 03, www.pizzeriacyklop.pl. Dont confuse
the small bar area in the front with the actual restaurant.
The true pizzeria is farther down the hallway and includes
a covered courtyard beyond. The pizza ovens and all the
fresh ingredients are on display and you are welcome to
watch them prepare your pie. The pizzas themselves are
the best bargain, but you can also build your own pasta
by choosing the noodles, sauce and extras. More of an
Italian restaurant that specializes in pizzas than merely a
pizzeria, Cyklop brings Italian cuisine to the Old Town and
succeeds admirably. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (16-43z).
PTAIVGSW
NEW
Portobello B-3, ul. Szewska 27, tel. (+48) 12 422 04

16. What looks like yet another dodgy destination for drunk
food on ul. Szewska is actually something quite exceptional.
This tiny Italian bistro offers a wide range of authentic eats
made fresh on-site from on-the-go bagel sandwiches, wraps,
pizza by the slice, muffins and croissants to stay awhile mains
like grilled steaks and fresh-made pastas (try their excellent
Bolognese sauce). Delicious Italian coffee and desserts, plus
a large beer selection, means theres never an occasion not

to drop in. That they manage to cram it all in a space with
only five small tables and still have room for exactly half of a
Fiat 500 is a bit of a marvel. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. (7-23z).
AUGSW
Studnia ycze (The Wishing Well) D-6, Pl. Nowy

6, tel. (+48) 12 429 53 37, www.studnia-zyczen.pl.
Superior Italian served in a rather bare setting, where creaking wooden floors are the order of the day. The food is better
than Krakws average Italian, with the gnocchi the pick of
the lunchtime menu. With good views of the busy if less than
salubrious Plac Nowy the tables by the open windows are
rarely free: reserve if you want one. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00.
(13-36z). PA6XSW
Trattoria da Cesare B-2, ul. Krupnicza 6, tel. (+48)

12 421 00 87, www.dacesare.eu. Now that Italian restaurants are a dime a dozen in Krakw, this veteran trattoria can
stake a claim at being one of the first and best. Unassuming
and understated in its presentation and decr, de Cesare
nonetheless wins big with a comfortable dining atmosphere,
absolutely lovely service and knock-out food - - the latter of
which is all prepared from scratch on the premises (which
means you may have to be patient in ordering some dishes)
by a very capable Italian-helmed staff. Fair prices in fine
surroundings make this the perfect setting for a quiet,
casual date. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00.
(14-39z). TAGSW
Trattoria Soprano B-3, ul. w. Anny 7, tel. (+48)

12 422 51 95, www.trattoriasoprano.pl. Very closely
resembling Carlito, this warm trattoria cluttered with potted
plants, ceramics and decorative embellishments would feel
busy even if it wasnt packed full of hungry patrons every
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RESTAURANTS
RESTAURANTS
night of the week. The menu of quality Italian classics and
pizzas changes slightly as various veggies come into season.
Comfortable, affordable and reliable, Soprano reminds you of
the simple pleasures of eating out. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Fri,
Sat 10:00 - 23:30. (19-82z). PTAGSW
Trzy Papryczki C-4, ul. Poselska 17, tel. (+48) 12

292 55 32, www.trzypapryczki.krakow.pl. This delicious venture wins our gold gong for Krakws best pizza, a
sentiment shared by pretty much anyone whos come into
contact with this place. Either do your dining in their knockout
back garden during the warmer months, or take to a dusky
lit dining room complete with log fire and wall frescoes.
The pizza here can get seriously experimental with choices
including roast turkey, almonds and avocado, and the chef
also extends his repertoire to cover numerous Italian dishes.
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (17-29z). TAGS
Vesuvio C-2, ul. Floriaska 38, tel. (+48) 12 422 35

55, www.vesuvio-krakow.com. Found in Hotel Floryans
cellar Vesuvio is a sure candidate for Krakws best pizza.
Cooked over a wood fire, pizzas here come with a grand
choice of toppings and presented by good looking staffers
who arent shy with their smiles. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00.
(16-85z). PTA6GSW
Vinci E-6, ul. Szeroka 10, tel. (+48) 12 423 08 74,
www.vinci-krakow.pl. An Italian offering from the proprietors of Portofino, Vincis Tuscan orange colour palette and
seasonal terrace seating are well-attuned to sunshine, and
even the interior is a bit of a pick-me-up when there isnt
any outside. Brightened by coloured tiles behind the bar, the
wooden floors, majestic lanterns and a decorative ceiling
with wooden framing create a comfortable rustic elegance.
While the menu wont bowl you over, it is reassuringly devoid
of pizza, giving more credence to the classic and delicious
creamy pasta dishes. Fine food at a fair price. QOpen 10:00
- 23:00. (17-57z). TA6IGSW
Vintage C-3, Rynek Gwny 45, tel. (+48) 12 421 57

97, www.vintage.net.pl. Vintage is hidden through a tunnel
off the Rynek, but is well worth the search. Dont confuse it
with Virtuoso, its gaudy and overbearing neighbour. Vintage
is much smaller (until you discover the huge cellar one level
below) and cosier, with high ceilings, decent prices and - of
course - Italian cuisine. Apart from the occasional orangechair anomaly the interior is a pleasant Italian cottage-style
combination of wood tones and off-white stucco with a light
rock and jazz soundtrack. Check the daily menu for something
fresh and relatively quick. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. (18-60z).
PTAXSW
Virtuoso C-3, Rynek Gwny 44, tel. (+48) 12 429 88

66, www.rynek44.pl. With this long, narrow location on
the market square, the owners have taken an admittedly
awkward space and turned it into a slick-seeming restaurant
that skirts the line between elegance and imitation. While the
red-tied waitstaff who take your order with a little electronic
gadget, the extensive menu and food itself - a celebration of
Italys elaborate culinary culture - play their respective roles
quite well, take a closer look at the interior and you begin
to notice how the pale unfinished timber framing clashes
with the wallpaper, how the black shag carpet exhibits the
dirt it collects, how the canopied ceiling hides cheap plastic
roof sheeting. What youre meant to notice, of course, is the
fashion runway entrance, the competence of the cuisine
and the long cocktail list - the latter of which only serves to
suggest that Virtuosos glass-half-empty elegance would
be better served strictly as a bar. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00.
(18-59z). PTASW
Japanese
77 Sushi B-3, ul. w. Anny 5, tel. (+48) 12 421 10 94,
www.sushi77.com. Continuing its march across PL with the
conquest of Krakws Old Town, this highly regarded sushi chain
has hardly lost a step, delivering the real deal to a city that has
already proven it has a strong appetite for edible art. Sushi 77 may
as well get in now, before its name denotes the number of Japanese restaurants it can count as competition. Priding themselves
on their secret rice preparation recipe and imaginative sushi sets,
theyre ready to take on all comers. Less awkwardly formal and
more affordable than the rest, 77 truly wins with authenticity.
QOpen 12:00 - 22:30. (29-59z). PTAVGSW
Edo Sushi D-6, ul. Boego Ciaa 3, tel. (+48) 12 422
24 24, www.edosushi.pl. Krakws first Japanese restaurant can now sit back and look at what their success and
excellence has wrought upon a restaurant market rapidly
approaching Warsaws level of sushi super-saturation. Edo
still stands as one of the best with a huge menu inside a calm
environment filled with recorded bird songs and rice-paper
panels. Check out the private room; a traditional shoes off
experience. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 23:00. (29-54z). PTAGSW
Genji Premium Sushi D-5, ul. Dietla 55/1, tel. (+48)

12 429 59 59, www.genji.pl. While virtually unheard of in
Krakw a few years ago, Genji is the latest in a line of raw fish
flayers to come to town, and the high quality food, prepared
by Japanese sushi chefs, makes an instant argument for
itself as the cream of the local crop. An upstairs sushi bar
leads to an intimate brick downstairs dining area where each
table occupies its own room. Taking itself a bit too seriously
to explain some of the kitschy decor touches, the extensive
menu of Korean and Japanese dishes and expensive sushi
sets also includes condescending directions on how to
eat your food. However all is forgiven when it arrives, with
eyebrow-raising prices justified by the spot-on results. Premium indeed. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00,
Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (20-60z). PTAVGSW
Kura D-6, ul. Estery 5, tel. (+48) 502 37 71 80, www.

restauracjakura.com. The Polish word for hen probably
isnt the most clever name for a sushi restaurant, but since
this place is presided over by a real live Japanese gent (!)
authenticity wins the day over local business savvy. Just off
Kazimierzs Pl. Nowy, find the man in question going about
his business in a compact, modern setting. We went for
the Kura 120 set menu which was enough for one and a
half male appetites, very tasty and allowed us to sample
from across the menu. Incidentally 120 refers to the price,
not the number of pieces of sushi you get. The Japanese
chef is so insistent on authenticity that the restaurant is
closed on his day off apparently. QOpen 13:00 - 23:00, Sat
12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. (20-50z).
PTA6VGSW
Miyako Sushi D-1, ul. Pawia 5 (Galeria Krakowska),
tel. (+48) 12 628 72 52. The first outfit to introduce the
sushi phenomenon to this now overly soy-sauced city, Miyako
fell victim to their own popularising of the craze when they
folded up their main location on the market square. Little
surprise there, however, as the brand has always shone
brighter in its more modern location inside this city shopping
centre. A standard range of sushi at each takes a backseat
to the sashimi sets: an investment of 45z buys you a bargain 20 cuts of raw fish, though the pride of place comes
reserved for the gyutataki - strips of raw beef marinated in
vinegar. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. (21-79z).
PTAUGSW
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RESTAURANTS
Cracovian Cooking A-O
Polish food is famous for being simple, hearty and almost
uniformly off-white in colour. You simply havent had a
thorough sampling of it until youve tried all the traditional
dishes below. Though most can be found at almost any
Polish restaurant or bar mleczny in town, weve given
you our picks of the litter, making your stomach a happy
camper and keeping its contents intact. Smacznego!
Bigos
Traditionally a winter dish, Bigos is a hearty stew made in
large batches. Though there is no standard recipe, ingredients usually include lots of fresh and pickled cabbage,
leftover meat parts and sausage, onion, mushrooms,
garlic and whatever else is on hand. In fact, metaphorically
Bigos translates to big mess, confusion or trouble in
Polish. Seasoned with peppercorns, bay leaves, caraway
and the kitchen sink, the stew is left to gestate, sometimes
underground, for a few days for full flavour infusion. A Polish
restaurant or prospective wife can be fairly measured on
the strength of their Bigos; weve had the best at Mid
Malina, Bar Smak and Kamils moms house.
Gobki
Translating to little pigeons, this favourite dish consists
of boiled cabbage leaves stuffed with beef, onion and rice
before being baked and served in a tomato or mushroom
sauce. Polish legend claims King Kazimierz fed his army
gobki before a battle outside Malbork against the
Teutonic Order, and their unlikely subsequent victory has
been attributed to the hearty meal ever since. Bolster
your own courage at Polakowski or try the creative
veggie versions at Vega Bar.
Golonka
Pork knuckle or hock, as in pigs thigh, boiled, braised, or
generally roasted and put before you on a plate. A true
Polish delicacy, youd be best served to buy it at a roadside stand as youre driving through the countryside, but
there are two places in Krakw that have proven peerless
when it comes to pork hocks: Kawaleria where its
served with pepper sauce, and Pod Wawelem where
the servings slip right off the bone and are so impossibly
large wed prefer not to know where they came from.
Kiebasa
Sausages, and in Poland youll find several varieties
made primarily with pork, but sometimes using turkey,
horse, lamb and even bison. There are a few varieties
to watch for including Krakowska, a Krakw specialty
seasoned with pepper and garlic; Kabanosy, a thin, dry
sausage flavoured with caraway seed; and Kaszanka, a
blood sausage filled with groats and pigs blood. These
youll find in any delikatesy or butcher shop, but head to
the Hala Targowa marketplace (E-4) anytime between
nightfall and sunrise to get a taste of Krakws most
famous sausage. Here, two old-timers have been serving
kiebasa out of a van, cooking it over a woodstoked grill,
since time immemorial at this hallowed sidewalk stand.
Naleniki
The Polish equivalent of French crepes, these are thin
pancakes wrapped around pretty much any filling you
can dream of, savoury or sweet. Generally the easy way
out in any dodgy Polish dining establishment, Kolanko
6 succeeds in making them memorable, while Vega Bar
has a unique Ukrainian interpretation which cant be beat.
RESTAURANTS
Musso Sushi A-4, ul. Zwierzyniecka 23, tel. (+48)
500 11 79 15, www.mussosushi.pl. The 4-year progression of an Eastern Europe tourist market seems to go
something like this: Year one the city receives the moniker
The New Prague, year two a jillion hostels open, year three
a jillion clubs open, and year four - where Krakw currently
finds itself - its all sushi restaurants. Musso sushi seems
to benefit from those who came before by not having to try
so hard. The menu is more simple and straight-forward and
here the chefs (shaved-head Polish men that they are) are
actually brave enough to prepare your food right in front of you
on the other side of the long dark wooden bar which can seat
about 30 people on its three sides. They do a commendable
job and we actually find eating here to be more of a joy than
an exercise in pretension. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (25-52z).
PTAVGS
Sushisquare C-3, Rynek Gwny 15, tel. (+48) 12

424 96 36, www.sushisquare.pl. A little slice of Tokyo,
Sushisquare is a microcosm of Japans fondness for
seafood, sake and compact spaces. The mirrored walls
help to make it feel roomier and the bright red and white
colouring gives the place good energy. The menu covers
the most popular Japanese dishes and gives you plenty
of choices for your preferred toppings and sauces. The
chopsticks are fun, but if youre in a hurry to get out and
see more of Krakw, grab a fork. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00.
(32-55z). TAGSW
Zen Restaurant & Sushi Bar D-3, ul. w. Tomasza
29, tel. (+48) 12 426 55 55, www.zensushi.pl. The
sushi boom that seems to have consumed Warsaw is in
full stride here in Krakw as well. Zen outdoes much of the
competition by hitting the authentic Japanese interior dead
on with a first floor sushi canal arrangement where customers can snare different servings as they float by; dishes are
colour-coded by cost so you can keep vague tabs on your
inflating tab. On the more formal second floor, dine ala carte
on traditional floor mats. The menu makes an ironic effort
not to pander to purists, but rather create an amalgam of
European and Asian ingredients and flavours with dishes
like sake-marinated beef or duck marinated in orange and
cinnamon served with teriyaki sauce. QOpen 12:00 - 23:45.
(30-300z). PTA6VGSW
Jewish
Alef C-6, ul. w. Agnieszki 5 (Alef Hotel), tel. (+48) 12
424 31 31, www.alef.pl. The Alef restaurant have shifted
from their traditional Kazimierz base, opening instead on the
ground floor of their second venture on ul. w. Agnieszki - not
necessarily a bad thing considering the knackered look the
old venue was starting to assume. This one is less claustrophobic, a greenish dining room decorated with the requisite
gramophones and heirlooms, as well as the usual klezmer
band stalking between tables. The food is standard, nothing better than anything else youd find in Krakw. QOpen
13:00 - 21:00. (18-49z). TA6UGSW
Ariel E-6, ul. Szeroka 17-18, tel. (+48) 12 421 79 20,
www.ariel-krakow.pl. Youll hear mixed reports emanating
from Ariel, and while our turkey steak was little better than
disappointing weve met more than a number of people extolling the virtues of Ariels varied Jewish cuisine. The setting is
typical of the district, with antiques and heirlooms alluding to
the Kazimierz of yesteryear, and a set of rooms decorated
in a charmingly cluttered style. The live music is a popular
draw, though you may appreciate it less when you learn you
are being charged to listen to it. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (2075z). PA6IEXSW
Dawno Temu Na Kazimierzu (Long Ago in Kazimierz) E-6, ul. Szeroka 1, tel. (+48) 12 421 21 17,
www.dawnotemu.nakazimierzu.pl. From the outside this
venue is disguised to look like a row of early 20th century
trade shops and is decorated with awnings relating to the
areas Jewish heritage. Things are no less colourful on the
inside with mannequins, sewing machines and carpenters
work surfaces adorning the interiors. A great attempt at
capturing the old Kazimierz spirit, and a must visit for those
tracing the districts past. QOpen 10:00 - 22:30. (21-42z).
AUEGS
Klezmer Hois E-6, ul. Szeroka 6, tel. (+48) 12 411

12 45, www.klezmer.pl. Late 19th century dcor and a
jumble of rugs and paintings; the interior of Klezmer Hois
follows the Kazimierz code for interior design but its the
strong menu that keeps the staff busy and the restaurant
packed. We recommend the chicken in honey and ginger.
Each night stirring music recitals keep the crowds amused
and the wine flowing. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. (19-55z).
TA6EGSW
Latin American
Diego & Bohumil C-5, ul. w. Sebastiana 6, tel.
(+48) 12 426 01 01. Two enterprising friends have
consummated the strange marriage of their strikingly
different national cuisines in the form of Diego i Bohumil
- Krakws unique Argentinean-Czech restaurant. The
menu is an even split of dishes from the two countries
and is available in English, making it all the easier to
evaluate ordering Argentinean highlights (like empanadas or Canelones) other than the steak - still a reliably
fantastic value at 40z. Located on a quiet street midway
between the Old Town and Kazimierz, enjoy the range of
Argentinean wines in the simple interior, where images of
gauchos and tangoing couples adorn the walls alongside
characters from Czech folklore. Great food and great
prices have made DiB a fast favourite. QOpen 12:00 22:00. (15-60z). TAIGSW
Manzana D-6, ul. Miodowa 11, tel. (+48) 12 422

22 77, www.manzana.com.pl. This time we were
happy to eat our own words for dinner. On a return trip
to Manzana, there was narry a nit to pick: the food was
excellent and we can heartily recommend the salmon,
which not only looked, but tasted exquisite. Manzanas
New Latin concept consists of meat and fish dishes
alongside reinvented classics (the massive burritos can
be prepared a number of ways) served in a chic interior of
dark, glossy colours, an open kitchen and low-level Latin
music. Though the prices aim a bit high, the service and
atmosphere are comfortably relaxed, making Manzana
the kind of place youd want to frequent often. Q Open
07:30 - 10:00, 16:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 07:30 - 24:00, Sun
07:30 - 22:00. (16-64z). PTAGSW
Pimiento E- 6, ul. Jzefa 26, tel. (+48) 12 421

25 02 , w w w.pimiento.pl. Beh i n d th e gl os s an d
sh e en o f Pi mi en to, th is pla c e is a b ou t m eat an d
little more; big unapologetic hunks of it. Boasting of
the best steaks in town, Pimiento gets all their meat
straight from Argentina, so i f youve had one too many
Polish cutlets and want a proper steak, head here.
Prices appear steep until you remember how much a
good steak costs wherever you last had one, and a
selection of South American wines wash it down. A
second location in the Old Town at ul. Stolarska 13
(C-3, same hours). QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (49-100z).
PTAGSW
Cracovian Cooking P-Z

Pierogi
Doughy dumplings traditionally filled with potato (Ruskie),
sweet cheese, meat, mushrooms and cabbage, strawberries or plums, though you will find plenty of maverick fillings
like broccoli, chocolate or liver as the possibilities are truly
limitless. The standards are served almost everywhere
in the city; head to Zapiecek for an impressive array of
original options or head to U Babci Maliny for an unconventional fried (not boiled or steamed) Pierogi served with
a wooden fork on a plate made of bread.
Placki
These greasy, fried potato pancakes (placki ziemniaczane)
are very similar to Jewish latkes (if that means anything to
you) and ideal for meatless winter days. Served with sauce
or goulash on top, sometimes with fruit or simply with sour
cream, you cant go wrong with the stations of Plac Nowys
roundhouse (D-6; the longer the queue, the better the food),
and Babci Malinys Placki po Wgiersku is generally
accepted as one of the most delicious and highly-caloric
meals youll ever have anywhere in your life.
Smalec
Vegetarians who broke their vows for a bite of sausage
or a taste of urek generally draw the line here. An animal
fat spread full of fried lard chunks (the more the better,
we say) and served with hunks of homemade bread,
Smalec is a savoury snack that goes great with a mug
of beer. Any traditional Polish restaurant worth its salt
should give you lashings of this prior to your meal; try
Chata,Pod Baranem or Polskie Jado.
Soup
Poland has three signature soups: Barszcz, urek and
Flaczki. A nourishing beetroot soup, Barszcz may be served
with potatoes and veggies tossed in, with a crokiet or Pierogi
floating in it, or simply as broth in a mug expressly for drinking. It doesnt get any more Polish than urek a unique
sour rye soup with sausage, potatoes and sometimes egg
chucked in. Our vote goes to Bar Smak, recently beating
out Od Zmierzchu Do witus urek z jajkiem as the
best in town (an accolade not to be underestimated), but
you also cant beat U Babci Malinys batch eaten out of a
breadbowl. If youre of strong constitution and feeling truly
adventurous, spring for Flaczki beef tripe soup enriched
with veggies, herbs and spices. A hearty standby in most
kitchens, we personally save the pleasure for compromising
situations involving mother-in-laws, but you can take your
chances at Chopskie Jado.
Zapiekanka
The ultimate Polish drunk food. Order one at any train station in PL and youll get a stale baguette cut in half, covered
with mushrooms and cheese, thrown in a toaster oven and
squirted with ketchup. Underwhelming to say the least.
However the vendors of Kazimierzs Plac Nowy (D-6) have
made a true art out of the Polish pizza. With endless embellishments and add-ons (including salami, spinach, smoked
cheese, chicken, pickles, pineapple, feta you name it),
garlic sauce and chives have essentially become standard
procedure at this point. Because of their popularity youll
witness ridiculous lines at the various windows around the
Roundhouse, but the wait is worth it. At 6/7z its a great value
and will sustain you through a night of heavy drinking. To leave
town without having tried a Plac Nowy Zapiekanka would be
felonious, as would settling for one anywhere else in Krakw.
75
76
RESTAURANTS
Milk Bars
A lot has changed over years since communism got kneecapped and Poland joined the EU. Today a destination as
popular as Krakw hardly seems any more alien or adventurous to tourists than well-frequented Paris or Venice. And while
many of the old ways of the old days have disappeared or
become slightly disneyfied, one relic remains steadfastly unWestern: the Polish milk bar. These steamy cafeterias serving
traditional cuisine to an endless queue of tramps, pensioners
and students provide a grim glimpse into Eastern Bloc Poland
and have all the atmosphere (and sanitary standards) of a
gas station restroom. We love them. For the cost of a few
coins you can eat like an orphaned street urchin, albeit an
extremely well-fed one. Put Wawel on hold, a visit to the milk
bar (bar mleczny in Polish) is a required cultural experience
for anyone who has just set foot in the country.
As in so many things, Krakw has the distinction of being
the birthplace of the bar mleczny. Polands first milk bar was
actually opened on Krakws market square on May 30th
1948 in the townhouse now occupied by the upstanding
Szara restaurant. Named Pod Bak (Under the Milk Churn),
originally no hot dishes were served; this was a place where
you went simply to enjoy milk (hence the name), humbly
served in .25 litre glass with a straw (so classy). Run by
the government, this was the new partys clever attempt
at popularising milk-drinking (as opposed to moonshine),
inspired by Polands large surplus of dairy products. As
restaurants were nationalised and then shut down by PLs
communist authorities, more and more milk bars appeared
across the country and began offering cheap, dairy-based
meals to the masses and especially workers; quite often
meals at the local milk bar were included in a workers salary.
By the mid-60s milk bars were widely prevalent across Poland
as the party concept was to provide cheap, fast food to
everyone (as cheerlessly as possible apparently). In addition
to milk, yoghurt, cottage cheese and other dairy concoctions,
milk bars offered omelettes and egg cutlets, as well as flourbased foods like pierogi. Times were so desperate under
communism that many bar mleczny resorted to chaining the
cutlery to the table to deter rampant thievery; by this same
reasoning youll still notice today that most milk bars use
disposable dishes and the salt and pepper are dispensed
from plastic cups with a spoon. Similarly, the orders are still
taken by blue-haired, blue-veined, all-business babcias -and
the food is as inspired as ever, the only difference being meat
isnt rationed any more in modern PL. Indeed, todays milk
bars evoke a timelessness to be savoured just as the milk
soup with noodles served to schoolchildren in PL in the 1980s
was. With the collapse of communism most bar mleczny went
bankrupt, however, fortunately for us all, some of these feed
museums were saved and continue to be kept open and dirt
cheap through state subsidies. The range of available dishes
begins to fall off as closing time approaches, so go early, go
often. Below are a few of our favourites in the city centre and
keep an eye out for a modern take on the theme named Milk
Bar and due to open at ul. Tomasza 24 in October.
Bar Grnik A-2, ul. Czysta 1, tel. (+48) 12 632

68 99. The editorial fave. Q Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat
08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. (4-10z). GS
Bar Targowy J-3, ul. Daszyskiego 19, tel. (+48) 12
421 14 37, www.bary.krakow.pl. QOpen 06:00 - 19:00,
Sat 07:00 - 16:00, Sun 07:00 - 15:00. (3-15z). GS
Pod Temid C-4, ul. Grodzka 43, tel. (+48) 12
422 08 74. The easiest to find: look for the blue and
white Bar Mleczny sign. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. (816z). UGS
RESTAURANTS
Mediterranean
Polish
Paese C - 4, ul. Poselska 24, tel. (+48) 12 421
Awiw E-6, ul. Szeroka 13, tel. (+48) 12 341 42 79,

www.awiw.pl. Beetroot soup never tasted so good as it
does at Awiw, accompanied with tasty croquette potatoes.
Twenty-five different kinds of pierogi are also on hand for
those tired of potato and cheese standbys. Given Szerokas
not unfounded reputation as a growing tourist trap you could
do worse than at this place, where though overall the food
does not win prizes for originality it will not cost you a fortune
either. If all the tables out front are occupied (as they usually
are), dont miss the patio at the back. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00.
(10-49z). TAEGSW
62 73, www.paese.com.pl. This veteran Corsican

restaurant of fers a bit of romance in an extremely
pleasant maritime Mediterranean interior full of wicker
furniture, a fireplace, fishing nets, lanterns, old maps
and a thatched ceiling. Highlights of the menu are the
Corsican bean soup with bacon and garlic (11z), while
the fish platter and beef fondue offer an extremely good
deal to couples. What you really shouldnt miss are the
desserts, sorbets and French wines, making Paese
recommended dining for all. QOpen 13:00 - 23:00.
(19-45z). PTA6GSW
Portofino E-6, ul. Wska 2, tel. (+48) 12 431 05

37, www.portofino.pl. Italian food at a decent price
served on a quiet, atmospheric side street across from
Kazimierzs High Synagogue. With no pizzas clogging up
the menu you can expect good pasta and some wonderful
tossed salads, however the highlight of our last visit was
the paella: certainly the best in Krakw, if it even has any
competition. Sit on the terrace if you can; inside things get
a bit more formal. Drop by between 12:00 and 16:00 for a
special lunch menu featuring most of the menus entrees
plus a soup starter for only 20z. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00.
(20-57z). TA6IEGSW
Warsztat (The Workshop) E-6, ul. Izaaka 3, tel.

(+48) 12 430 14 51. This little cafe/restaurant pretty
much represents everything we love about Kazimierz:
a charmingly kooky, casual atmosphere of effortless
originality created by candlelight and a clutter of battered
musical instruments. The food - risottos, pasta, salads,
pizza and more - is generous in portioning and rich in
flavour without any notion that your wallet will be, making
Warsztat an excellent detour from the days agenda. Recommended. Also now at (D-6), ul. Boego Ciaa 1. QOpen
09:00 - 24:00. (15-43z). AGSW
Mexican
Burrito Buffet J-1, ul. Warszawska 20/3, tel. (+48)
12 633 04 09, www.burritobuffet.com.pl. Great news
for anyone who wasnt aware that theres good Mexican in
Krakw, there most certainly is. Serving quesadillas and
wraps the size of a beer stein, get yours loaded with chicken,
pork, beef, shrimp, or beans and cheese in addition to the
assortment of fresh veggies and sauces standard with
each. No pickles or cabbage in sight, instead enjoy genuine
Mexican fillings like refried beans, jalapeos and hot sauce
thats properly hot. With burritos the way they should be, ie.
made to order, it beats the carrots out of a Krakowian kebab
and for about the same price too. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sat
11:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00. (11-20z). AVGS
Taco Mexicano El Pueblo C-4, ul. Poselska 20, tel.

(+48) 12 421 54 41, www.tacomexicano.pl. This perpetually packed veteran restaurant is one of the most popular in Krakw and its a damn shame. Meals are preceded
by complimentary peanuts (not tortilla chips and salsa), the
margaritas are strong but shallow, the spicy sauce is shockingly mild, theres not a black bean in sight and meals come
buried beneath two sides of pickled cabbage. The cheerful
Mexican cantina interior is the primary highlight and we can
only guess that its the novel and disorienting dissimilarity
between Polish and Mexican cuisine that continues to make
El Pueblo the coveted choice of every local couple out on a
cheap date. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Thu 12:00 - 23:30, Fri,
Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (20-40z). PTA6GSW
Bar Grodzki C-4, ul. Grodzka 47, tel. (+48) 12 422

68 07, www.grodzkibar.zaprasza.net. Experience the
days of commie Poland in this delicious blast from the
past. Find everyone from tramps to war veterans tucking into the cheapest food youre ever liable to stumble
on. Dine on boiling hot plates of traditional Polish goo
and cabbage amid an interior reminiscent of a young
offenders unit. Downstairs take your food in a typically
atmospheric Krakowian cellar. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00.
(10-19z). 6GS
Bar Smak B-2, ul. Karmelicka 10, tel. (+48) 12

431 21 49. Brilliant. Not at the top of anyones list for
a night of fine dining, that is not the point of Bar Smak.
Instead this is a local place for local people who cram
around the wooden tables to eat huge portions of wellloved standards, from cheap pierogi to excellent bigos
to great big golonka. Order from the board or ask for an
English menu. Set meals of soup, a side, potatoes and a
main go for 16z, meaning you can eat like a Polish king
for peanuts. Open late and we love it. QOpen 11:00 22:00. (8-20z). T6UGSW
Biaa Ra I-3, ul. Straszewskiego 16, tel. (+48)
12 421 51 90, www.restauracjabialaroza.pl. While
many of Krakws finer restaurants emphasize everything that is medieval about traditional Polish food,
Biaa Ra has no difficulty demonstrating it as entirely
contemporary and (gasp) European. Well-presented,
outstanding fish and meat dishes betray the prices, and
the pre-meal cabbage pastry - while an apt introduction
to Polish culinary invention - does a disservice to whats
to come. Popular with older holidaymakers staying at
the next door Radisson, Biaa Ra offers fine service
and fine dining in a spacious off-white interior of gold
columns and understated swirl patterns with a fireplace
and frosty chandeliers. And for those looking to enjoy
the food at discounted prices, there is a changing daily
lunch menu at 15zl. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (15-66z).
PTAUIGSW
Bordo B -3, ul. Gobia 3, tel. (+48) 12 421 19
01 , w w w.bordo - krakow.pl. Seemingl y trend y for
not trying to be overly trendy, this versatile new locale
functions as a bar, ca fe and cheap eater y ser ving
meat cu tl ets, pierogi and oth er Polish standards.
The results are nothing to turn your nose up at and
represent a great value - particularly the daily special
which includes soup and entree for only 13.90z. The
courtyard garden full of hanging plants is a lovely spot
for a budget lunch, while the tastefully modern interior
is a more intimate spot for young couples enjoying
cocktails and cheap beer until long after the kitchen
closes at 22:00. Bordos the kind of place that requires
little to be said, other than we like it. QOpen 08:00 22:00. (14-24z). AXSW
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77
78
RESTAURANTS
RESTAURANTS
Chata C-1, ul. Krowoderska 21, tel. (+48) 888 10
11 00, www.polskakuchnia.com.pl. Hardly where
one would expect to find a rustic mountain cottage, this
largely unheralded Polish folk restaurant just north of the
Old Town is one of the best in the area and offers a great
introduction to the carnivorous inclinations of traditional
Polish cuisine. Meals begin with some of the best smalec
(savoury lard spread) weve ever had as guests peruse
a budget menu that comprises a veritable menagerie of
grilled animals. A great winter oasis, step off the dirty
streets into Chatas homely interior - made almost entirely of large unfinished timber logs, from the walls to
the tables and benches - and relax near the fireplace on
one of the many sheepskin rugs that make up the decor.
In summer, stop in for a cold beer and traditional beer
snacks. QOpen 13:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 23:00.
(12-18z). A6IGS
Chimera B-3, ul. w. Anny 3, tel. (+48) 12 292 12
12, www.chimera.com.pl. Once combining budget food
with sophisticated surroundings, the sumptuous cellars
of Chimera have been given over to the fine dining establishment that once resided next door, while the budget
buffet is now only on the terraced garden (see Quick
Eats). Elegant and ethereal with a surrealist sense of
humour amidst the secessionist decor, this underground
charmer is favoured by local art mavens and academic
owls dining on a range of Polish game options (geese,
rabbit, deer) unveiled from beneath silver serving domes
at the table. Splendid. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (30-55z).
TA6GSW
Chopskie Jado C-3, ul. w. Jana 3, tel. (+48)
12 429 51 57, www.chlopskiejadlo.pl. A usually reliable romp through the glories of Polish country cooking.
The menu is a labyrinth of peasant dishes, with a vast
choice of what nomrally amounts to enormous helpings
of meat and potatoes, and complimentary lard to start
your meal. Bright blue interiors come decorated with
jars and pickles and strings of sausages, and staff are
kitted out like saucy country wenches. Also on ul. w.
Agnieszki 1, (C-6), (Open 12:00-22:00, Fri, Sat 12:0023:00.) QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00.
(12-59z). PTAUGS
NEW
City Lunch Cafe C-4, ul. Grodzka 51, tel. (+48) 782
72 16 79. A small bistro lazily decorated with photos
of the market square at night and silver wallpaper that
clashes with the historical timber ceiling, City Lunch
Cafe serves breakfast, lunch and dinner from a menu
that seems to be in constant flux, but has a bit of everything from standard Polish fare with fries to pasta and
sandwiches. The house specialty is golanka (traditional
Polish pork knuckle, 39.90z) and we can personally
testify that it is enormous, delicious, and well-worth attempting to finish. Though a bit overpriced overall and
seemingly beneath the standard of the adjoining Hotel
Senacki, this place is nevertheless packed with tourists
throughout the day. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. (18-40z).
PTAUGSW
C.K. Browar (H.M. Brewery) B-2, ul. Podwale 6-7,

tel. (+48) 12 429 25 05, www.ckbrowar.krakow.pl. A
huge and rowdy cellar complex with a restaurant, bar and
disco in three seperate sections. The food is pretty tasty,
well priced and Austrian-inspired. Their home-brewed beers
come by the glass or in tall pipes: a private tap on your table.
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. (19-45z).
PTAXSW
C.K. Dezerter (H.M. Deserters) C-3, ul. Bracka 6,

tel. (+48) 12 422 79 31, www.ckdezerter.pl. Yellowing
pictures of soldiers posing in trenches and a collection of
19th century clocks decorate this rustic-styled restaurant.
Food has influences from around Central Europe with big
helpings of steaks, pork, chicken and other farm animals.
The Slovak cheese soup is a good starter, the pork in
brown sauce a decent follow-up. While you wont regret
your visit you probably wont be making plans for a return.
QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. (15-55z).
PTA6UGS
Czary D-3, ul. Mikoajska 30 (Mikoaj Hotel), tel.

(+48) 12 429 58 08, www.restauracjaczary.pl. A
beautiful venue on the edge of the Planty close to the
Main Market Square (Rynek). Czary is set over two levels,
with a ground level Art Nouveau room and a magnificent
cellar - - the Gothic Room, which makes for a beautiful
and atmospheric setting to enjoy their well presented
and priced menu of Polish and international dishes. Of
particular note are the tasty kettle dishes - - a choice
of goulash, fish with vegetable ragu, or beef in red wine,
which come served in metal pots. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00.
(15-50z). TAGSW
Gociniec Polski B-2, Pl. Szczepaski 2, tel. (+48)
12 422 61 54, www.gosciniec-polski.pl. If you find
yourself in what appears to be an enormous Polish hunting lodge in the centre of Krakw, then youve found your
way to Gociniec Polski. In their homey if a little hokey
countryside-themed locale, they cover just about any Polish dish you can think of, and their prices are quite good.
Along with some international additions like pasta and
crepes theyve got a nice selection of soups (something
one should always try in Poland) and for some reason
a large selection of low-priced alcohol that you can buy
either by the shot or the bottle. If you decide on the bottle,
fill up on the 20 zloty combo meal beforehand. QOpen
07:30 - 23:00. (15-50z). PTA6GS
Gospoda Koko B-3, ul. Gobia 8, tel. (+48) 12

430 21 35, www.gospodakoko.pl. The real virtue of
Koko is revealed at 2:00 in the morning when you want
a civilised sit down meal without the company of tzatziki
dribbling drunks. Serving generous portions of stodgy
Polish classics like pierogis and fried cutlets for the same
price as a kebab deep into drinking hours, this is a handy
alternative for anyone looking to fortify their stomach
without making a mess of their shirt front. Formerly
stuffed into an obscure back corner, Kokos popularity has
brought about the opening of a second street-side dining
room which significantly outclasses the original space in
terms of rustic charm. QOpen 08:00 - 03:00. (10-14z).
TA6GSW
Haweka C-3, Rynek Gwny 34 (ground floor), tel.

(+48) 12 422 06 31, www.hawelka.pl. Krakws moved
on, but Hawelka hasnt. If you want to experience the Krakw
of olde, this enduring, achingly formal holdover is the place
to do it, just like Queen Elisabeth II, the King of Greece and
numerous Austro-Hungarian Archdukes before them did at
one time. The menu is an encyclopaedic choice of traditional
Polish game and fish dishes served without interruption or
reinvention since 1876, and the dining room is a very green
(popular colour in those days) trip back to the turn of the
20th century with a reproduction of Jan Matejkos massive
Prussian Homage looming over the proceedings - perhaps
the only inauthentic thing about having a meal in this legendary local institution. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (20-69z).
PTAXS
Hot Beer?
There are a number of ways to survive the winter in
Poland, and weve tried them all, from dressing up
like an Eskimo to staying in bed and refusing to get
dressed at all. Of all the methods known, however,
none rewards as much as a pint of grzane piwo.
Thats hot beer in laymans terms essentially a
frothing hot pint spiced with artificial ginger syrup,
clove, cinnamon and other mulling spices. For some
an acquired taste, for others an early Christmas
present and others still an utter profanity, but an
invention necessary for everyone to try at least once.
There are a couple things to consider with regards
to hot beer: Firstly, it takes a while (5-10 minutes)
to properly heat the drink without exploding it, so
prepare to wait and be patient. Secondly there is
a tendency to immediately stab a straw into the
glass to mix the syrup at the bottom throughout the
drink. If the beverage is too hot this will result in it
erupting all over you. This common rookie mistake
is an event many twisted bartenders wait for with
relish; you can avoid it by simply letting your drink
cool slightly and gingerly testing its reaction to the
straw. [Were telling you this to save you some face.
Ours has had egg on it too many times.] Similarly
popular is grzane wino or mulled wine as youll
notice by the barrel-shaped stands selling cups of
it on the market square. The popular regional brand
is Grzaniec Galicyjski and if you enjoy drinking it in
public so much, youll be delighted to discover you
can buy it in almost any alcohol shop and easily
prepare it at home as well.
79
80
RESTAURANTS
RESTAURANTS
Media Aetas U Mistrza Jana B-3, Rynek Gwny
26, tel. (+48) 12 427 58 75, www.mediaaetas.pl. It
may come off as the Polish version of Medieval Times,
but this name-challenged restaurant is far better and
does not include an uncomfortably anachronistic performance. Nearly every detail, from the staffs costumes,
to the menu, to the furniture and even the tapestries
are classic recreations of the ancient era. Apart from
the enormous bison in the doorway, the restaurant
really impresses with attention to detail and a serious
sense of historic style. The entire two-level restaurant
is dotted with fresh fruit and candles and there is an
outdoor seating area in the Rynek if you foolishly choose
to ignore the interior dcor. The menu is all classic Polish
and the meads should help you to better appreciate a
13th century lifestyle. Check out the massive chandelier
above the Knights of the Round Table. And, boys, be
sure to have a look at the literal throne in the mens
bathroom: royalty indeed. QOpen 11:30 - 23:00. (29165z). TAEGW
M i d i W i n o (H o n ey a n d W i n e) C - 2 , u l .
Sawkowska 32, tel. (+48) 12 422 74 95, www.
miodiwino.pl. Champion dishes of traditional Polish fare
in a setting piled as high as the food with muskets, antlers
and suits of armour. All extras (vegetables, bread) cost
extra, and youll need to explain clearly how you expect
your meat to be cooked; but the flair of the service,
quality of the food and fondness of the folk musicians
playing full force nearby create a fun atmosphere thats
completely worth being in. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (1468z). PTAUEGS
Jarema D-1, Pl. Matejki 5, tel. (+48) 12 429 36 69,
Kuchnia u Doroty D-6, ul. Miodowa 25, tel. (+48) 517
www.jarema.pl. Classy Eastern Polish and other dishes

from the region in a slightly ostentatious, 19th-century setting. Waitresses in traditional costume serve from a large
menu including steak with quail eggs, a few vegetarian
dishes, pheasant and wild boar. Despite the harking back
to the good old days, this is not your classic tourist trap.
Highly recommended. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. (18-49z).
PTA6UIVEGSW
94 53 38. Legendary local favourite serving traditional Polish

dishes with slightly more ambiance than a milk bar. A great
introduction to the concept that so much food could cost
so little, the house specialty potato pancakes with goulash
could easily feed a cavalry and still have a little something
for you left over. Delicious home cookin. Dorota, yer a doll.
QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. (9-20z). TIGS
Karczma Staropolska C-3, Rynek Gwny 44, tel.

(+48) 12 429 88 66, www.rynek44.pl. Polish restaurants
going for that country cottage theme are 10 a penny in Krakow
these days, but this one justifies inclusion because of its location on the Rynek, its bright new dcor (think stripped pine,
fake windows) and the presentation. The pork chops with
gravy arrive on a silver platter with real gravy, and the sides
of baked potato slices and roasted beetroot complement
the dish perfectly. Waitresses in authentic dress enhance
the dcor which will look all the better once its been lived in
for a bit. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (14-45z). TAXSW
Kawaleria Szara Smaku (Cavalry) B-3, ul. Gobia

4, tel. (+48) 12 430 24 32, www.kawaleria.com.pl.
Three spacious rooms decorated with an equine motif - paintings of Cossacks and jockeys hang alongside sabres and
hunting trophies - include a large fireplace and lush seasonal
garden. The menu changes seasonally, but represents a
strong review of upmarket Polish game dishes (including wild
boar in prune sauce) with some vegetarian dishes included
as well. For kids theres not only a special menu, but an entire
fun corner with a toy chest and rocking horse. Kawalerias
excellent food, service and value have been recognised by
many, most recently a tyre company called Michelin. QOpen
12:00 - 22:00. (23-56z). PTAUIGSW
Marchewka z Groszkiem D-7, ul. Mostowa 2, tel.

(+48) 12 430 07 95. This friendly little cafe/restaurant off
Plac Wolnica has Sunday morning stamped all over it. The
decor of antique furnishings and framed curiosities is half
home-sweet-home, half Kazimierz half-light and the menu
of Polish staples, breakfast items, pastas and salads brings
above average results at below average prices. The highlight,
however, has to be the assortment of bottled microbrews and
Ukrainian beers, making Carrots with Peas as ideal for an
early evening drink as it is for a morning coffee. Recommended. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. (9-20z). TA6UGSW
Marmolada C-3, ul. Grodzka 5, tel. (+48) 12 396 49
46, www.marmoladarestauracja.pl. While Krakws supersaturated restaurant market has seen plenty of tankings of late,
the team behind the ever-popular and duly praised Mid Malina
continues to expand. Marmolada - their latest - follows the tried
and true trend of Polish and Italian dishes, prepared and fired
for a few minutes in a large stone oven before arriving at your
table. Narrow, yet long and cavernous, Marmolada utilises
floral folk patterns, canopied ceilings, big timber tables and
poinsettas to create their unique combination of a comfortable
local atmosphere and low prices with great food and service.
Go elegant on Grodzka, just doors down from the citys most
exclusive restaurant (Wierzynek), and leave with a 30z receipt.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (17-54z). PTAUEGSW
Mid Malina (Honey Raspberry) C-4, ul. Grodzka

40, tel. (+48) 12 430 04 11, www.miodmalina.pl.
Consistently excellent meals have seen Mid Malina
establish themselves as one of the top restaurants in
town, so book ahead if you fancy taking in the Grodzka
views afforded by the raised window-side seating. This
cheer ful looking restaurant comes with raspberries
painted onto the walls and a pleasing glow that illuminates the darker evenings. Floral touches aplenty here,
lending a storybook, candy cottage atmosphere, while
the menu mixes up the best of Polish and Italian cooking. The prices remain pegged generously low making a
visit here not just recommended (as the Michelin Guide
2011 did) but essential. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (26-45z).
PTAUGSW
Morskie Oko B -2, Pl. Szczepaski 8, tel. (+48)
1 2 4 3 1 2 4 2 3 , w w w. m o r s k i e o k o . k r a k o w. p l .
Morskie Oko aims to capture the mountain spirit of
Zakopane so theres plenty of primitive looking furniture, waitresses with bits bursting out of tradtional
costum e an d regular li ve ban ds makin g a racket.
Th e food is caveman i n st yl e, d eli ci ous h u nks o f
grill ed animals. QOpen 1 2:00 - 24:00. (13 -38z).
PTAIEGSW
Nostalgia B-2, ul. Karmelicka 10, tel. (+48) 12

425 42 60, www.nostalgia.krakow.pl. Smashing
Polish cuisine served inside an intriguing interior that
features a fireplace, wood beams and a galaxy of rural
decorative touches. Its a light and warming design
with plenty of glass bottles and rusty trappings to act
as visual diversions and the menu proves equally well
thought out. Choose from local classics like the wonderfully fluffy pierogi or opt for the king-sized duck served
with baked apples. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (18-75z).
PTAUIXSW
81
82
RESTAURANTS
RESTAURANTS
Nostalgia Restaurant
10 Karmelicka street, Krakw
Phone: +48 12 425 42 60
www.nostalgia.krakow.pl
Od Zmierzchu Do witu (From Dusk Till Dawn)
D-5, ul. w. Sebastiana 33, tel. (+48) 502 44 91 60.
Permanently steamy windows hide this low-budget legend.
The menu, typed out on a piece of paper tacked to the wall,
features standards like pork chops, bigos and, in our opinion,
the best urek in town. Despite being due for a name change
since down-scaling their once round the clock service, offduty taxi drivers and spaced out clubbers are still happy to
sacrifice comforts like a toilet or multi-lingual welcome here
in exchange for excellent, filling meals. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00,
Sun 09:00 - 20:00. (8-17z). AVGS
Ogniem i Mieczem (With Fire and Sword)

J -5, Pl. Serkowskiego 7, tel. (+48) 12 656 23 28,
www.ogniemimieczem.pl. Crowded with barrels of
mead, bear skins and even a winged Hussar, the timber
interior is a masterpiece. But the history isnt confined
to the dcor - the recipes were researched in the local
Jagiellonian Library. Essentially a feast of meat with

roast pig on a spit and 1 litre steins of beer being
the specialties, this medieval theme restaurant is far
enough of f the tourist track feel completely authentic.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:30, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (25-60z).
PAUIXS
Percheron Restaurant A-5, ul. Zwierzyniecka 31,

tel. (+48) 12 379 59 50, www.percheron.pl. Located
inside the same premises as the recommended Orangery,
Percheron now offers a wealth of Polish food amidst modern
furnishings and photographs of old Krakow. The restaurant
is also available for large bookings for groups looking for that
extra-special occasion. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (14-68z).
PTA6UGSW
Pod Anioami (Under the Angel) C-4, ul. Grodzka
35, tel. (+48) 12 421 39 99, www.podaniolami.pl. For
a taste of Polish medieval cuisine, experience this charming spot under the angels. As you enter you find yourself
immersed in a cavernous, monastic-like, candle-lit haven
that has a very cosy and engaging atmosphere and an
unexpected warmth in some places two full levels under the
old Royal Route. They have two transparent and open ovengrills along with displays for the main entree ingredients so
you can watch the creation of your meal from beginning to
end. Among the winding corridors reputedly built in the 13th
Century you will find a year-round open garden and fountain,
casks and medieval style wooden furnishings, and a few
hidden bars so you neednt wait for your drinks to descend
to your depths. The menu includes massive meals for up
to 35 people, and has nearly everything imaginable that is
smoked, grilled, or traditionally Polish. QOpen 13:00 - 24:00.
(45-72z). PTAGSW
Pod Baranem C-5, ul. w. Gertrudy 21, tel. (+48)
12 429 40 22, www.podbaranem.com. An admirable
establishment near Wawel Castle, the interior of exposed
brick and wooden ceiling beams, a fireplace and skilful mural
of Krakw in one of the rooms, offset by framed photos of
family and guests on the walls, creates a truly comfortable
and classy dining environment. Serving Polish standards
including trout in a cabbage leaf and cream of wild mushroom
soup in a bread-bowl, the menu features more meat than
youll find at a livestock market, with deer and wild boar getting into the menagerie as well. Our shredded pork wrapped
in cabbage leaves with mushroom sauce left us more than
satisfied, but the true standout was the complimentary premeal smalec and bread - maybe the best weve tasted in
Krakw. For those stricken with food allergies, this is one of
the only places in town to offer gluten-free meals, of which
their menu dedicates a page. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (1567z). PTAIXS
Pod Lwem J-4, ul. Jzefiska 4, tel. (+48) 519 37

47 37. Not exactly compelling proof of Podgrzes oncoming emergence from its wartime shadow, Pod Lwem
is nonetheless noteworthy testament to the districts
development. Unfortunately the boring, understated
interior of candy-striped benches and a few strips of wallpaper suggest that something is definitely missing here.
That something might be imagination or merely stronger
investment. Playing it safe with standard Polish fare, Pod
Lwem sports an English menu and was wise to get its foot
in the door before the new Bernatek Bridge connected its
doorstep directly to Kazimierz. Hopefully theyll use it to
cross the river and realise its going to take a little more
creativity to turn this area into a real dining destination.
QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. (9-48z).
TAIGSW
Pod Socem (Under the Sun) C-3, Rynek Gwny

43, tel. (+48) 12 422 93 78 ext.16, www.gehanowska.
pl. A typically beautiful Old Town cellar which includes a
stone carving of Mr. Sun casting an eye over diners. The
pancakes are a substantial meal in themselves, and theres
a heap of grilled and skewered animals to pick from as well.
Meals are delivered by an efficient team of scurrying waiters and pretty blondes. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30. (15-48z).
PTA6IXSW
Pod Wawelem C-5, ul. w. Gertrudy 26-29, tel.
(+48) 12 421 23 36, www.podwawelem.eu. The
place to visit if youre looking to hit your daily calorie
quota in one meal. Huge portions of acceptable food
helped by enormous amounts of veg, cascade off the
steel pans and wooden boards theyre served on, while
uniformed staff weave between the bench seating serving frothing steins of lager. Great for groups and families,
kids have their own large rumpus area, while the grownups soak up the beer hall atmosphere shouting over
energetic live folk music. Litre beers are encouraged and
half-price on Mondays, and theres a handy vomitorium
in the mens room - i.e, two enormous steel basins for
those suffering from over-consumption to hock their
recently imbibed pork hocks. Q Open 06:30 - 10:30,
12:00 - 24:00, Sun 06:30 - 10:30, 12:00 - 23:00. (1660z). PTAUEGBSW
Poezja Smaku (Poetry of Taste) B-3, ul. Jagielloska

5, tel. (+48) 12 431 03 67, www.poezjasmaku.pl.
A beautiful network of brick cellars near the Old Theatre
dressed up in frilly Belle Epoque style and packed with
busts, paintings, mirrors and curios. This is where Britains
Prince Edward enjoyed dinner in November 2004, though
no word on what his highness ordered. Despite the truly
sumptuous surroundings, the food can be rather hit or miss
making Poezja Smaku either the highlight of your trip or a
sincere disappointment. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (12-51z).
TA6GSW
Polakowski D-6, ul. Miodowa 39, tel. (+48) 12 421

07 76, www.polakowski.com.pl. The definitive local
dining experience. Join the queue and order big plates of
piping hot food dished up from metal containers, before
bussing your dishes to the wash-up window. Choose from
the likes of cutlets with mashed potatoes, spinach or beet
salad sides, soups, pierogi and other timeless classics. Far
better than it looks or sounds, Polakowski is an editorial fave.
Essentially an upmarket milk bar this place has gone the
extra yard (or justified the extra zloty) by adding a toilet and
English language menu. Also on Pl. Wszystkich witych 10
(C-4), ul. Mogilska 35 (K-2) and in M1 (Al. Pokoju 67). QOpen
09:00 - 22:00. (8-20z). TAGS
83
84
RESTAURANTS
RESTAURANTS
NEW
RESTAURACJA
POD BARANEM
Ul. w. Gertrudy 21
31-049 Krakw. tel. +48 12 429 40 22

restauracja@podbaranem.com
Traditional Polish cuisine
Wild boar tenderloins

with forrest sauce
Spare ribs in a cabbage
leave with mushroom sauce
... and many more
Polskie Jado Kuchnia Polska i Ocienne
C-3, Rynek Gwny 23, tel. (+48) 12 423 81 35,
www.polskiejadlo.com.pl. The brainchild of the man
who formerly owned the Chopskie Jado group, its
no surprise that the interiors of Polskie Jado are as
near an approximation to his previous venture as the
name is, albeit this time within the ancient confines of
a fine market square location: turquoise walls offset
by rough hewn rock and vaults, corners cluttered with
clanky farmyard tools and peasant furnishings. Yet this
is more than a mere copycat; in fact, the menu is far
superior to its predecessor and despite giving Polish
food and hospitality a bit too much of a Disney treatment, Polskie Jado still makes for an ideal introduction
to both, particularly for groups. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.
(17-55z). PTA6GSW
Restauracja Gessler we Francuskim C-2, ul. Pijarska 13, tel. (+48) 12 627 37 77. Having recently bought
the Francuski Hotel, Polish star restaurateur Adam Gessler
has made his arrival in Krakw felt by not only naming its new
restaurant after himself, but also making it one of the most
impressive and popular places in town. Dingy, unfinished
walls contrast with the olde-world over-the-top service of
white suit-jacketed gentlemen who serve everything at your
table, even preparing some of it in front of you from the labourious mincing of the steak tartare to the firing of the sugar
glaze on the creme brulee, all while a pianist tickles ivories in
the corner. The set three-course Espresso Lunch (served
Mon-Sat 12:00-16:00) is a fantastic opportunity to experience high society inter-war elegance for a shocking 20z.
As such, this place is packed and we are totally on board.
Q Open 07:00-11:00, 12:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 07:00-11:00,
12:00-24:00. (28-47z). PTAUEXS
Ssiedzi D-6, ul. Miodowa 25, tel. (+48) 500 03 32

18, www.oberza.pl. The menu of classic Polish food boasts
a breakfast like at your neighbours house, whatever that
means, but dont let a baffling outburst of Dada prose put
you off. The staff are refreshingly friendly and the honeycomb
of rooms in the cellar sets the stage for a collection of more
comprehensible tucker such as a classic white borsch and
trout with almonds. Our most recent visit found a giggling
lady student from Guinea waiting tables, possibly a first
for the city. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. (11-80z).
TAEXSW
Starka D-6, ul. Jzefa 14, tel. (+48) 12 430 65 38,
www.starka.com.pl. The vodka concoctions here are
fabulous, but dont dare get ruined on them before you experience the restaurant out back - schoolboy error. Scarlet
walls choc-a-block with black and white etchings provide a
cool atmosphere to drop back into the leather seating before
diving into a menu filled with perfectly prepared Polish dishes.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (26-64z). PTAGSW
Stodoa 47 D-2, ul. Floriaska 47, tel. (+48) 12 292
49 25, www.stodola47.pl. A rustic surprise on flashy Florianska street, Stodoa 47 leaves the door open for those who
may not have grown up in a barn, but wouldnt mind eating
in one. Full of farming falderal, haybales, chopped wood and
animal skins, the menu of grilled meats - including roasted
turkey in apricot sauce (20z) and rabbit saddle (45z) - makes
the absence of livestock inside Barn 47 seemingly less of
a mystery. Polish classics served up with the usual sides
of beet, cabbage and buckwheat. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00,
Fri 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00.
(12-64z). TA6IGS
Polskie Smaki C-2, ul. w. Tomasza 5, tel. (+48)
U Babci Maliny C-2, ul. Sawkowska 17, tel. (+48)
12 429 38 69, www.polskie -smaki.pl. This place

could be called a bar mleczny for the rest of ya. When
the cold communist style and eat-and-run attitude of
the regular milk bars begin to sour their moods, students and desk slaves retreat to Polskie Smaki for a
quick and cheap lunch. The wood panelling creates a
feeling of warmth and comfort (always welcome during the cold or rainy months) and the lack of crowds
means people can eat in peace. Some of these Polish
favourites are available on order, but most of the food
is warm and ready to go, just point and say, prosz
(please), to one of the three bored but polite girls
behind the counter. And yes, you do have to take your
dishes to the hole in the wall in the back when youre
done, thank you very much. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00.
(15-20z). TAGS
12 422 76 01, www.kuchniaubabcimaliny.pl. Entering

this hidden cellar through the courtyard of a building on the
corner of Sawkowska and w. Marka streets, youll descend
the stairs and greet a crossword-puzzled babcia who decides
if you can enter this kitschy country cottage of wooden
benches slung with sheep hides. Youll be grateful to have
garnered her approval once youve tried the soups served
in breadbowls and pierogi served on breadplates (really), to
make no mention of the city-famous placki po wgiersku - an
enormous plate of potato pancakes smothered in goulash,
cheese and sour cream. With budget prices for outlandishly large and delicious servings, this should be a go-to for
anyone being introduced to Polish food...or who hasnt eaten
in three days. Also with a location at ul. Szpitalna 38 (D-2).
QOpen 11:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (12-25z).
PTAVEGSW
U Zalipianek B-3, ul. Szewska 24, tel. (+48) 12 422 29

50, www.bary.krakow.pl. Named after a village near Krakw
known for its colourful houses, U Zalipianeks bright, traditional floral
patterns are juxtaposed with the curmudgeony old-timers occupying the seats. More than likely most of the conversations revolve
around crappy pensions and the good ol days when everybody had
a job. Thus the clients cheerfully pay 1z for the coat check while in a
nod to convention customers no longer have to pay for the toilet. Still
worth a visit for the unique and amusing atmosphere - especially
when the summer terrace is open - the budget menu consists of
all the Polish faves, though theyre unlikely to have your first choice.
QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. (10-40z). PTAGS
Wierzynek C-3, Rynek Gwny 15, tel. (+48) 12 424
U Ziyada ul. Jodowa 13 (Przegorzay Castle, Zwierzyniec),

tel. (+48) 12 429 71 05, www.uziyada.pl. The menu is an
interesting mix of Polish and Kurdish cooking, and while it alone
doesnt justify your taxi fare, the location absolutely does. Set in a
magnificent hillside castle once home to a detachment of Luftwaffe
officers, the panoramic views of the Wisa river are outstanding and
with these prices youre basically getting them for free. Definitely
worth the trip. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. (19-69z). TAGSW
00 22, www.wstarejkuchni.pl. The angle on this Polskie Jado

offering is classic Polish cuisine, plus salads, steak and pieconki
- dishes cooked in the large wood-fired stove in the middle of the
restaurant. The results dont disappoint and the folk decor is
typical of the brand with emphasis here on antiquated kitchen
knickknacks and utensils recreating a pre-electric village eatery.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (15-49z). PTA6UGBS
Wesele C-3, Rynek Gwny 10, tel. (+48) 12 422 74 60,

www.weselerestauracja.pl. If youre a fan of Mid Malina, and
lets face it, who isnt, then its time you visited Wesele, a project
brought to you by the same gang behind MM. If your Polish is
as good as your Chinese then the first thing youll need to know
is what the name means - its wedding, and the interiors are
a dead giveaway, filled with ribbons, flowers and candles. An
impressive venue alright, and with all the clinking glasses and
smiley people it doesnt take much vision to imagine you actually
have gate crashed a wedding. The menu is classic Polish cooking done exactly the way it was meant, and the goose breast
is fabulous. Also recommended by the Michelin Guide 2011.
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (17-68z). PTAUEGSW
96 00, www.wierzynek.pl. Quite a launch party this place:

according to legend the opening night back in 1364 was attended by five kings and nine princes. Since then its been one
esteemed guest after another, with former diners including De
Gaulle, Bush, Castro and other bods who influence the way
the globe spins, as well as starlets like Sophie Marceau and
Kate Moss. A set of wooden stairs lead to a series of imposing rooms decked out with tapestries and plantlife while a
seriously high-end menu includes pike perch flamed in mead.
QOpen 13:00 - 23:00. (52-120z). PTAEXSW
W Starej Kuchni C-2, ul. w. Tomasza 8, tel. (+48) 12 428
Russian
Winiowy Sad C-4, ul. Grodzka 33, tel. (+48) 12 430
21 11, www.kuchniarosyjska.com. Winiowy Sad offers
Russian, Ukrainian and Caucasus specialities like caviar blini,
pelmieni dried squid beer snacks and a borscht that would
rival that of the villages best babushka. Part-time chef, classical guitarist and all around swell guy Yury Beychuk takes
turns with another musician serenading diners on Saturday
evenings at 20:00. The interior is full of festive drapes and
tablecloths, ornate murals, candles and crummy folk paintings, and you can expect to find some fur on the coat-rack.
Thoroughly authentic and affordable. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00,
Fri, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (13-55z). TA6EGSW
85
86
RESTAURANTS
Smoking
RESTAURANTS
Seafood
Farina C-2, ul. w. Marka 16 (corner of ul. w. Jana),
After holding out to be one of the few remaining EU

countries with no or very few prohibitions on smoking, a
new law brought in on the 15th November 2010 aimed to
limit the activities of smokers in public places.
Smoking is now completely banned on public transport including taxis, trains, company cars, public transport stops,
childrens playgrounds, schools, universities, workplaces,
sports arenas and other places where the public gather.
Owners are obliged to clearly place a clear and visible No
Smoking sign and anyone caught smoking by either the
police or local city guard is subject to a 500zl fine.
tel. (+48) 12 422 16 80, www.farina.com.pl. Homemade

pastas and great fish dishes have won Farina a devoted local
following and industry accolades. The aromatic, high-quality
Polish and Mediterranean cuisine is matched by the setting:
three bright, breezy rooms decorated in a comfortable, homey
style fitted with unfinished wood. The best time to visit Farina is
between Thursday and Sunday when the seafood and oysters,
imported from Brittany and Italy, are the most fresh. QOpen
12:00 - 23:00. (21-89z). PTA6IXSW
There are, however, exceptions. It is possible to smoke

in some bars, clubs, restaurants and other public places.
The law states that there can be a SEPARATE ROOM
created for smokers as long as it is properly ventilated
and closed off from the other public areas (originally this
was only going to be permitted in premises over 100m2,
but that doesnt seem to have been included). As many
places listed in this guide are simply too small to allow
for a separate room, this has automatically made them
subject to the ban. To help you to find or avoid places
which will continue to allow smoking on the premises we
have used the following symbols throughout the guide
Samui B-3, ul. Wilna 10, tel. (+48) 12 430 02 65,

www.samui.com.pl. No-one would fault you for not being
aware that theres great Thai food in Krakws city centre, but
now that you know, we recommend you do something about
it. With an enormous menu of well over 100 items, dont miss
the delicious soups before choosing the meat of your choice
(our halibut was excellent) to add to a range of curries, or stir
fries with different sauces - black pepper, honey, basil, ginger
and chilli among them. There are plenty of vegetarian dishes
as well, and all come with rice and very reasonable price tags.
Rounded off with friendly, knowledgeable service and Asian
dcor that doesnt overdo itself, well be back soon. QOpen
12:00 - 22:00. (24-39z). TAVGSW
G This place has a complete ban on smoking on the

premises
X This place has a smoking section on the premises
Having now had some time to gauge reaction it appears
that owners have followed one of three courses of action.
Firstly they have through choice or necessity obeyed the
law and the whole premises are now non-smoking. A
second group, generally those with bigger premises, have
exercised their right to build a smoking room. The third
group have examined the wording of the law and then driven
an articulated lorry through the holes left by incompetent
legislators. We have seen examples of entire bars allowing
smoking by making the vast majority of the place smoking
with a small area in the front, back or downstairs, set aside
for non-smokers. We have even seen an example of two
restaurants joining together and claiming the smoking area
is in one restaurant while the non-smoking area is in the
one next door. And were not sure if some of the bars and
clubs in Kazimierz are even aware that there is a new law
at all. The looseness of the wording of the new law and
the apparent inability or will to police it suggest that while
it will certainly reduce smoking in many public places, it will
still allow it to continue in a lot of others. Choose carefully.
Thai
Ukrainian
Smak Ukraiski C-5, ul. Kanonicza 15, tel. (+48)
12 421 92 94 ext.25, www.ukrainska.pl. This veteran
restaurant has survived the test of time and continues
to serve up consistently decent, stodgy food - shashlyks,
steaks, pork, pierogi, potatoes and borscht - at suitably
Ukranian bargain prices. Small children running amok all
over the gorgeous courtyard garden further adds to the
authenticity, but may have you heading to their folksy cellar
where pleasant peasant-dressed staff keep the bottles of
underappreciated Ukrainian beer coming to your table. Try all
eleven varieties and wake up feeling like a Chernobyl victim.
QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (12-40z). TAGSW
Vegetarian
Cafe Mynek D-7, Pl. Wolnica 7, tel. (+48) 12 430
62 02, www.cafemlynek.pl. The best caf south of ul.
Jzefa since its inception a decade ago, in addition to a
classic Kazimierz art gallery atmosphere, good coffee and
square-side summer seating, Mynek also serves a smattering of yummy vegetarian dishes like humus and garlic bread,
quiches and a delicious Spanish tomato soup (like gazpacho,
but served hot). Sunday brunch complete with live classical
music between 11:00 and 13:00. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00,
Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00. (15-26z). PTA6EGSW
NEW
Chili & Cynamon E-5, ul. Berka Joselewicza 9, tel.

(+48) 725 15 13 57, www.chili-cynamon.eu. This tiny
vegetarian bar is a no frills affair with white walls, a whiteboard menu, a few photos from an Indian spice bazaar and
seating for exactly 13 people. The tasty and clever sakiewki
ze szpinakiem - two crepe purses stuffed with spinach and
cheese, tied at the top with a scallion on a bed of tomato
sauce - is the best conceived and artistically-executed item
on a menu of baked casseroles and veggie cutlets that
seems uninspired otherwise. Simple and affordable, though a
bit off the beaten path, we ate alone. QOpen 12:00 - 19:00.
(5-12z). TA6GSW
Ekobistro Papuamu K- 4, ul. Romanowicza 15

(entrance from ul. Lipowa), tel. (+48) 791 37 17 17,
www.papuamu.pl. Quite an admirable and ambitious
establishment, Papuamu goes out of its way like no other
place in Krakw to be health-conscious, environmentally
conscious and community conscious. All-natural, slow
food recipes use only fresh, locally grown, fair-trade
ingredients to create nutritious, healthy meals. The result
is not strictly vegetarian (but the meats are ecological
too) and involves lots of grains, beans and seasonal veggies served in large portions for a fantastic value. The
interior is sparse and simple, and its unclear whether
the unique location - as the only restaurant currently
near the Schindler Factory - will be a help or a hindrance
to such a niche establishment. Heres hoping its the
former. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 20:00.
(10-34z). T6GSW
Glonojad (Algae- eater) D -2, Pl. Matejki 2, tel.
(+48) 12 346 16 77, www.glonojad.com. Were
the first to applaud the opening of any vegetarian restaurant in PL, and while Glonojads concise, easterninspired menu - featuring curr y, samosas, burritos
and daily specials - is a refreshing alternative to your
typical Polish cafeteria, the fact that the aforementioned mains hit rather low on the flavour scale and
are served with two sides of standard slaw/salad in
an uninspired interior means the end result isnt that
far of f from being a sort of veggie milk bar; albeit one
with beer and wine, wi fi a computer and even a mini
bike-service to use. Fast, filling, healthy and a great
value for your money, Glonojad is sure to be popular
with students sick of greasy cutlets, but will sadly
leave those with an appetite for more creative veggie
fare disappointed. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun
09:00 - 22:00. (7-14z). TA6GSW
Green Way C-3, ul. Mikoajska 14, tel. (+48) 12

431 10 27, www.greenway.pl. Despite the somewhat
soulless corporate packaging, this is an excellent vegetarian effort well-favoured by students and travellers.
Serving pita sandwiches, samosas, crepes, quiche,
curry, enchilladas, some delicious spinach dumplings
as well as daily specials, the prices are fair and affordable, though the ambiance leaves a bit to be desired.
QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. (1024z). P6GSW
Momo D - 6, ul. Dietla 49, tel. (+48) 609 68 57 75.

A cheap and cheer ful vegan restaurant (Krakws only)
churning out plates of brown rice, organic vegetable
mashes, a good choice of salads, a few Indian and
Asian dishes and even kimchee. Popular with le ftleaning schoolteachers, the wack y backpacker set
and people that refuse to stop smiling, Momos prices
remain ludicrously cheap and the food is both healthy
and worth coming back for. Try the excellent spicey
sambar soup and dont forget to smother your food
with their coveted peanut sauce. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00.
(10-18z). T6UGS
Vega A-2, ul. Krupnicza 22, tel. (+48) 12 430

08 46, www.vegarestauracja.pl. A great alternative to Polish meat and starch menus; though the
prices have gone up (get used to it, people), the food
remains some of the best vegetarian fare in the city
and therefore a bargain. All around excellent whether
youre a rabbit or not, with the big gest stand-out being the salad bar. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. (11-18z).
TA6UIGS
Late Night Eats

When it comes to late night street food, Krakw has
you covered. Though youll find kebab stands all over
popular nightlife thoroughfares like ul. Floriaska and
ul. Szewska in the Old Town, the best of them is Pod
Oson Nieba at the corner of Plac Wszytkich witych
and ul. Grodzka (C-4). With the low quality of Cracovian
kebabs, however, thats not saying much. Your options
are actually better than that, from all night pierogi shops
to the 24hr vodka and herring bars that have sprung up
all over town, the best of which we list below. Perhaps
Polands most popular street food is the zapiekanka
(see Cracovian Cooking box for more) and the best place
to get one is out of one of the hatches of the Plac Nowy
roundhouse (D-6) which generally stay open until at
least 02:00. Required eating by any visitor, the only late
night food spot more legendary is the sidewalk sausage
stand - Kiebasa z Rona - on ul. Grzegrzecka near the
Hala Targowa market (E-4). Here two old boys have been
grilling sausages over wood stoked fires for the hungry
masses for over twenty years. Open every day except
Sunday from 20:00-03:00, look for the long queue in
front of the blue Nyska (a Soviet-model van).
Ambasada ledzia C-3, ul. Stolarska 8/10, tel.

(+48) 662 56 94 60. Theres a vodka and ledz bar
on almost every square in Krakw all of a sudden, and
were gonna go ahead and blame Ambasada ledzia
(The Herring Embassy) for this fishy fad. They were first,
and if were judging by food, theyre also the best. In case
youre wondering, pickled herring (ledz) is a delicacy in
these parts in the same way that vodka is local parlance
for medicine. The two go great together (draw your own
conclusions about that) and for the uninitiated palate we
recommend Ambasadas ledzie w mietanie as an introduction. For 8z its a cheap fling with foreign food culture,
and you can get any drink in the place to wash it down for
4z. The pauper-pleasing prices and dive bar interior of
graffiti scribbles make this a hipster haven, one that stays
crammed with clients long after midnight, and one that is
evidently well worth imitating. Q Open 24hrs. GSW
Gospoda Koko B-3, ul. Gobia 8, tel. (+48) 12

430 21 35, www.gospodakoko.pl. The real virtue of
Koko is revealed at 2:00 in the morning when you want
a civilised sit down meal without the company of tzatziki
dribbling drunks. Serving generous portions of stodgy
Polish classics like pierogis and fried cutlets for the same
price as a kebab deep into drinking hours, this is a handy
alternative for anyone looking to fortify their stomach
without making a mess of their shirtfront. Formerly
stuffed into an obscure back corner, Kokos popularity
has brought about the opening of a second street-side
dining room which significantly outclasses the original
space in terms of rustic charm. QOpen 08:00 - 03:00.
TA6GSW
Zapiecek Polskie Pierogarnie C -2 , ul.

Sawkowska 32, tel. (+48) 12 422 74 95, www.
zapiecek.eu. Join legions of happy locals tucking into
the legendary pierogi served with no fuss, no formality
by an unsmiling lady from behind a counter. It is a long
way from fine dining but for a quintessential Krakw
experience there are few better places to come. Now
open all night, its cheaper than a kebab and a much
better value when everything else is closed. Q Open
24 hrs. (8-10z). GS
87
CAFS
88
CAFS
Krakw is infamous for its cafe culture which easily rivals

that of celebrated capitals like Paris and Vienna, perhaps
even outmatching them pound for pound. The Kazimierz
district is particularly known for its atmospheric cafes,
filled with candlelight, antiques and Old World mystique.
Most Cracovian cafes also ser ve beer and the line
between cafe and bar can be a blurry one. The venues
weve listed here tend to favour coffee and cakes and
when most cafe/bar establishments are turning up the
music for their til last guest clientele, these are more
often closing their doors.
Cafe Gobia 3 B-3, ul. Gobia 3, tel. (+48) 12 430 24
Cheder E-6, ul. Jzefa 36 (entrance from ul. Jakuba),
19, www.cafegolebia3.com. Positioned just well-enough

to avoid the brunt of tourist traffic, this little bohemian cafe
in the Old Town is full of all the things necessary to be quintessentially Cracovian: oddball clutter and artwork, wobbly
tables, beer-drinking students, coffee-slurping laptoppers
and paper-perusing academics. The site of frequent photo
exhibitions, drop in for a drink, scribble some verse down
on a beermat and drop it in the blue postal box out front to
participate in a long local tradition: the Poetry Gutter. QOpen
09:00 - 23:00. 6GSW
NEW
Cafe Lunch Bar Wierzynek C-3, Rynek Gwny 15,
tel. (+48) 12 431 15 17, www.cheder.pl. Opened by the

Jewish Culture Festival Association in a former prayer house,
Cheder continues Kazimierzs obsession with its past, serving
as a Jewish cultural centre and cafe. A large open space with
wooden furnishings, Cheder hosts lectures, film screenings,
concerts and other events promoting Judaism; however its
most impressive resource is the in-house library of Jewishrelated books, many of which are in English. Whatever your
relationship with Israel, this quiet, non-smoking, wifi-enabled
cafe is undeniably one of the best places to work or study in
town, with a delicious cup of Isreali coffee served in a traditional
finjan to guide you. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. TA6GSW
4D Gelato Caffe D-1, ul. Pawia 5 (Galeria Krakowska),

tel. (+48) 12 628 73 22. Delicious gourmet Italian coffee
and ice cream on the first floor of Galeria Krakowska. On offer
are more than 30 gelato flavours and fruit sorbets, including
some creative and utterly adorable sundae creations for kids,
plus pancakes, bruschette, baguettes and other savoury
eats. This modern cafe with watermelon-coloured furnishings
is the ultimate place to recharge and treat yourself when
shopping becomes exhausting. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun
10:00 - 21:00. P6UGSW
Bar 13 C-3, Rynek Gwny 13, tel. (+48) 12 617

02 1 2 , w w w.vinoteka1 3.pl. Enjoy co f fee, sand wiches and wine in a chic basement cafe that acts as
a decent place to regroup following a day of battling
the elements outside. Clean-cut and upmarket, and a
popular break spot in between shopping and sightseeing missions. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00.
PA6UGSW
For Kids
Cafe Culca D-7, ul. Mostowa 14, tel. (+48) 12
430 07 20, www.cafeculca.pl. Take the little ones
out to a cafe, tell them, Go ahead, kids, have fun! and
what happens? Madness. Full of wacky furnishings,
bright colours, toys, puppets, pillows, balloon animals,
oh yeah, and screaming children, this might be the
loudest locale in Krakw. In comparison to Mufinka,
Culca is larger and offers more of a proper food menu
for kids and parents alike, with an emphasis on healthy
dishes prepared with natural ingredients and seasonal
veggies, plus multivitamin fruit shakes, gluten-free
options and even special items for breast-feeding
mums. Or say the heck with that and get yourself a
well-deserved beer or cocktail. Check their website
for regular childrens workshops and consider bringing
earplugs. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Mon 09:00 - 20:00.
TAGSW
Mufinka Cafe E-6, ul. Dajwr 25/b, tel. (+48) 12
341 47 09, www.mufinkacafe.pl. Probably the last
place in town youd want to go without a child, but if you
happen to have one in tow this is a great place to let them
run loose without garnering dirty looks from other patrons. Everything in Mufinka is designed for kids including
a play area for tots, a blackboard for burgeoning artists,
a small shop with picture books and toys, and a menu
of treats they wont refuse to eat: mostly desserts and
ice cream, cakes and muffins, juice and fruit cocktails,
and some light lunch items like soup. For adults theres
coffee and a chance to recharge while their kids play with
others in a safe environment. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sun
11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. TAGSW
tel. (+48) 12 424 96 00, www.cafewierzynek.pl. Tucked

along side its namesake restaurant, Cafe Wierzynek remains
quaint both in the traditional Polish fare and with the decor,
epitomised by loud pink floral patterns and fabrics on the
furnishings - even the tabletops have enormous cherubs
and orchids on them. Whats modern is the menu, full of
hot soups, healthy salads, plenty of breakfast choices
at comparably low Rynek prices, naughty desserts and
pricey coffee drinks. By the same team behind the legendary restaurant of the same name, there are plenty of hearty
meat, fish and pasta entrees in the cafe for those who cant
pony up for the restaurant proper. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00.
PTAUXSW
NEW
Cafe Sza C-3, Rynek Gwny 1-3, tel. (+48) 695

60 27 74. On the second floor of the renovated Cloth
Hall, Cafe Sza offers great views of St. Marys Basilica
and the market square from its large terrace. In addition to being a great place for snapping some photos,
this Tribeca-owned cafe serves delicious coffee, cakes,
and cocktails. Its fairly recent opening remains one of
the citys lesser known secrets, making the stage right
for a romantic date. If you arent interested in the cafe,
you can pay 2z just to visit the terrace (or try your luck
by sneaking around to the second terrace in the same
location on the other side of the spiral stairs). QOpen
10:00 - 20:00. PAUGS
Chocoffee B-3, ul. Wilna 8, tel. (+48) 502 36 83 84,

www.chocoffee.com. Building on the success of their excellent
Wrocaw location, this half chocolate shop, half coffeehouse,
offers an assortment of to-die-for filled chocolates, pralines
and truffles, but its the coffee concoctions that keep us coming
back. Try a tantalising array of aromatic spiced coffee-chocolate
compositions and other liquid aphrodisiacs, hot or cold, to go or to
stay in the stylish smoke-free interior piped with chill-out music.
Recommended. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. PTAGSW
Cupcake Corner C-3, ul. Bracka 4, www.cupcakecorner.pl. Cupcake Corner feels like a modern-day gingerbread house right down to the red and white colouring, the
decorations of recipes and pictures of food, and the smell
of baking sweets saturating every corner of the shop. Cupcake sizes range from regular to jumbo to Texas and there
are combos for 17-18 zloty for Texas cupcakes and either
a large gourmet coffee or juice. Some specialty cupcakes
are only for a couple days each week, but some delicious
favourites - like the Peanut Butter Cup - are baked daily.
Also at ul. Michaowskiego 14 (A-2). QOpen 08:00 - 21:00,
Sun 09:00 - 21:00. TAUGSW
4D GELATO CAFFE
ul. Pawia 5 (Galeria Krakowska)
31-154 Krakw
tel. 12/628-73-22
4D Gelato Caffe
Europejska C-3, Rynek Gwny 35, tel. (+48) 12 429

34 93, www.europejska.pl. An elaborately elegant atmosphere prevails inside this classically decorated local legend.
Gramophones, suitcases and other ephemera tastefully
clutter this classy upscale venue. Flawless bartenders are
there to guide your way through the impressive list of tortes
and beverages. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. PTAGSW
Camelot C-3, ul. w. Tomasza 17, tel. (+48) 12 421

01 23. Let a blissful day unravel before you amid a collection of tiny tables, squeaking floorboards and watercolors
pinned to white walls. Owlish academics mingle with local
stage celebrities and braying tourists inside what is no
less than a city institution. An extensive menu features
all-day breakfast, salads, pastas, desserts and plenty of
warm local liquors, and the elevated seat in the window
may be the most romantic spot in town. Check out the
upstairs gallery, or (beginning in September) descend to
the cellar on Fridays at 20:00 to experience the delightfully
strange, often a tad corny, always endearing Loch Camelot
cabaret. Recommended all around. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00.
T6EGS
Jama Michalika D-2, ul. Floriaska 45, tel. (+48) 12

422 15 61, www.jamamichalika.pl. Not so much a caf
as a lesson in local history. Established in 1895, it was here
that the Moda Polska movement was founded, with many of
the leading artists of the day choosing to take their libations
inside this grand looking venue. Decorated with stained glass
and artwork from the fin-de-siecle era this caf serves as
a favoured stamping ground for elder tourists in colourful
clothes, though the poker-faced nature of the staff limits
the appeal of return visits. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat
09:00 - 23:00. PTAUEXSW
Camera Cafe B-3, ul. Wilna 5, tel. (+48) 601 19 03
Karma Organic Coffee A-2, ul. Krupnicza 12, tel.
81, www.camera-cafe.pl. Following renovations the style

and atmosphere of this place has changed little: film reels
with stills of old favourites look down upon local starlets
stirring their chocolates while a silent film plays evocatively
in the background of this curvy, creamy cafe/bar. Marrying
movies and chocolate, Camera Cafe offers a wide range of
chocolate cocktails - and were not talking about powdered
cocoa, here; more like spoonable pudding. A number of other
sweet indulgences are on hand, as well as good breakfast
options and a few other savories. Great for impressing mum
in the afternoon or a date in the evening. QOpen 10:00 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 23:00. PAGS
(+48) 506 06 06 84. Just a couple of minutes up from the

Planty and Teatr Bagatela, Karma is the kind of coffee-shop
that lets you feel like youre getting your body and the planet
healthy at the same time. As part of their focus on organic
foods and a litany of gluten-free treats, many of their baked
goods are made in-house, fresh each morning. Apart from the
usual coffee fare, their collection of international bottled teas,
juices, and exotically-titled refreshments are complimented
nicely by their daily specials of omelettes, baguettes and
soups. There is even a miniature play-area for those of you
who may be bringing along a miniature person or two. QOpen
08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. TA6GSW
Gelato Caff
89
90
NIGHTLIFE
CAFS
Kolanko N6 E-6, ul. Jzefa 17, tel. (+48) 12 292 03
20, www.kolanko.net. One of Kazimierzs most underappreciated venues, Kolanko has plenty going for it. The main
attraction must be the large garden with plenty of summertime shade and winter warmth thanks to heating and insulation, but dont overlook the cheap menu of soups, salads
and creatively-stuffed sweet and savoury crepes which have
become ensconced in local legend; nor the delicious and
too-often overlooked local amber and dark beers on draft.
Quirky attic knicknacks combined with klezmer and world
music selections give Kolanko 6 an escapist atmosphere
well-appreciated by couples, laptoppers and loners like
ourselves. Recommended. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun
11:00 - 24:00. TA6UEGBSW
La Petite France D-3, ul. w. Tomasza 25, tel. (+48)
12 370 20 74, www.lapetitefrance.pl. This indeed
petite French cafe with sweets, sandwiches, salads and
baked goods made on site, gains authenticity by offering
the opportunity to enjoy that most Parisian of pastimes people-watching - from the great window seating. An ideal
spot for a morning croissant and coffee, afternoon glass
of wine, or post-dinner crme brulee dessert, everything is
made from fresh and imported ingredients, many of which
can be purchased to take home. Pleasant, but quite pricey,
here youll also find the French press and magazines. QOpen
09:00 - 22:00. A6GSW
Massolit Books & Caf A-4, ul. Felicjanek 4, tel.

(+48) 12 432 41 50, www.massolit.com. A true labour
of love, filled with dusty shelves groaning under the weight
of thousands of titles with broken spines. This is not just
the best English language bookshop youll ever find in Eastern Europe, but also an atmospheric caf where budding
playwrights convene for muted whisperings and American
cookies, bagels, pies, the best drip coffee in town, and now
wine thanks to the recent opening of a comfy wine room.
Ground zero for ex-pats, the bulletin board is an important
community rallying point. A requisite pilgrimage point for
foreigners; dont miss it. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Fri, Sat
10:00 - 21:00. TA6GSW
Nowa Prowincja (The New Province) C-3, ul. Bracka 3-5, tel. (+48) 693 77 00 79, www.nowaprowincja.
krakow.pl. The sad demise of its sister establishment a
few doors up the street only makes Nowa Prowincja all the
more rare for its enduringly Cracovian atmosphere of half
smoke and half candlelight, half laughter and half blather.
A favourite staff respite and rendezvous location with a
sparing wooden interior, this stellar coffee bar is primarily
furnished with chatting friends enjoying delicious coffee and
maybe the best hot chocolate in town - so thick you need a
spoon - or getting an early start on the evenings brew-haha. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00, Sun
09:00 - 24:00. A6GSW
Noworolski C-3, Rynek Gwny 1, tel. (+48) 12 422

47 71, www.noworolski.com.pl. Take a seat in this
local classic inside the Cloth Hall and breathe the history
which reflects the life and times of Krakow during the last
century or so. Opened as a family enterprise in 1910, this
place has witnessed and suffered directly from the rise
and fall of the 20th centurys extreme political systems.
Famous as the place where Comrade Lenin would come
and read the papers before going on to achieve greater
things, WWII occupation later saw Noworolski become the
top haunt of Nazi nabobs, before the business was taken
away from the family by the communist authorities before
being returned in 1991. Things have changed little in terms
of style and service since then, making Noworolski a bit of
a creaky throwback favoured today by well-dressed locals

in the autumn of their years, but the exquisite art nouveau
interiors are among the most decadent in town and well
worth a look. Youll find cheaper and better coffee in the city
but it wont be served to such an atmospheric backdrop.
QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. AXSW
Pierwszy Lokal... C-3, ul. Stolarska 6, tel. (+48)

12 431 24 41. Known for its labourious, unmemorisable
name - and as one of the only places in the centre where
you can enjoy local delicious Dragons Head beer (amber
or porter) - this long-standing favourite blends seemlessly
into a bar in the evenings. With eclectic music and a relaxed
atmosphere, Piewszy Lokal is a great place to meet friends,
relaxing on the leather sofas or chatting around the candlelit
tables. QOpen 06:30 - 24:00, Fri 06:30 - 02:00, Sat 10:00 02:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. 6XSW
Pijalnia Czekolady Wedla C-3, Rynek Gwny 46, tel.
(+48) 12 429 40 85, www.wedelpijalnie.pl. A superb
collection of confectionary supplied courtesy of Wedel, Polands best-loved brand. Find chocolates, cakes and pralines
of every description, every bit as delightful as the aproned
girls that serve them. Interiors are worthy of this kingdom
of temptation and include a vaulted glass ceiling and black
and white pictures of Wedels founding fathers. QOpen
09:00 - 22:00. PAGS
NEW
Pracownia D-6, ul. Brzozowa 15, www.brzozowa15.

pl. This small, cosy, strictly civilised cafe is a great escape
from urban bustle and boozy shenanigans in a way that few
Kazimierz venues can provide anymore. Ideal for independent
study, mornings with a coffee and the paper or quiet conversation with a friend, Pracownia has also found its place in
the evenings with board-game enthusiasts. Subtly decorated
in the style of a familiar apartment, Pracownia has a great
(but pricey) beer list of Polish microbrews, and a fantastic
playlist of 50s rock and roll tunes that keep us dropping by.
QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Fri 10:00 - 24:00, Sat 11:00 - 24:00,
Sun 11:00 - 22:00. TA6NSW
NEW
Royal Art Cafe C-5, ul. w. Gertrudy 26-29 (Royal

Hotel), tel. (+48) 12 618 40 41, www.royal.com.pl.
Located in one of our favourite Krakw hotels, Royal Art Cafe
is much more modern than the regal art nouveau hotel that
houses it, with sharp lighting and design and windows overlooking the Planty. The latest presses are there to help you
start your day, plus widescreen TVs on which you can catch
some sports or world news in English. But Royal Arts biggest
draw is clearly the long rack of fine whiskeys behind the bar
which are sure to smooth the wrinkles and loosen the collar
at the end of any day. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. PAGW
Ul Lala Cukiernia & Lunch Time C-3, Rynek Gwny

42, tel. (+48) 12 374 13 07, www.ullalacafe.pl. The
sweet-tooth magnet on the Rynek, otherwise known as
Ul Lala, offers admission into a dessert-only alternative
universe. It is not only all things sweet, it is all things takeaway so that your guilty pleasures can extend days and
weeks beyond your moment of weakness once youve
taken them home with you. With traditional cakes made
in-house, ice cream, muffins, tarts, cookies and blended
juices, the ULlala world of edible hedonism extends to the
realm of drinks as well. The extensive cocktails, daiquiris and
margaritas complimented by a traditional open bar go along
nicely with the outdoor summer seating along the Rynek
just outside Ul Lalas front doors. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00.
PTA6UIGSW
Bars & Pubs

Awaria D-3, ul. Mikoajska 9, tel. (+48) 12 292 03
50, www.klubawaria.com. This small dodgy, dive bar is
known for its live rock and blues concerts (Tuesday-Sunday),
patient barmaids and plastered, hard-livin local clientele who
are never too shy to buy a sober stranger a drink. Steamy
and frightfully claustrophobic, Awaria features a narrow
underground corridor leading to the long wooden bar which,
with no room to pass on the other side, is one of the most
poorly designed spaces weve ever seen. Pass it you must
if you want to see the band in the next room, where youll
encounter the hazards of drunks spilling or stealing your
drink as tables topple over and someone rocks out on the
harmonica. The fact that theres barely enough room to sit
in front of the bar might explain why people are dancing on
top of it to the Tina Turner and Elvis classics on rotation after
the band blows off. Legendary. QOpen 15:00 - 02:00, Fri,
Sat 15:00 - 06:00. AEXW
Baroque C-2, ul. w. Jana 16, tel. (+48) 12 422 01

06, www.baroque.com.pl. Over several rooms of plush
seating, high fashion photographs, dangling chandeliers
and a spacious garden during the warmer part of the year,
Baroque is a sharp, modern space that mixes the new with
the old. Seductively attractive, its range of cocktails is consistently among the best in the city. Choose from knock-out
creations like the Polski Spring Punch or get your head down
and do your best to rip through the 100-plus vodkas on the
list. While Krakws mojito love-affair continues unabated,
Baroques still looks the best and comes in positively huge
portions. After years of being a premier cocktail bar and
restaurant, theyve gone and jumped into the dance scene,
keeping the signature Baroque style, downstairs (Open
Thu, Fri, Sat 21:00 - 03:00). QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 04:00. PAXW
Betel B-2, Pl. Szczepaski 3, tel. (+48) 608 46 62 02.

Hidden behind the one-night stand inspiring Materia meatmarket and adjacent to a fertility centre, Betel reminds you
that actually...the kids are alright. In the warm months this
large, open courtyard under a leafy green tree presents a
great place to relax with an afternoon coffee or arrange an
evening rendezvous before it begins filling up with students
and artists drinking tasty Czech and Polish microbrews. A
slightly modern interior doubles as a local gallery, the playlist
sounds like its been selected by Syd Barrett himself, and any
place that serves Kozel Cerny is going to get high marks and
repeated visits from us. Best yet, it never seems to close or
get too crazy. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00, Fri 10:00 - 03:00, Sat
12:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. UGW
Bomba B-2, Pl. Szczepaski 2/1, tel. (+48) 782 60
19 99. In almost no time at all, this small bar has managed
to establish itself as a cult hangout thanks to a simple
concept few places follow anymore: good music and good
people equals good times. Unpretentious with an interior of
unfinished wood, brick walls and a small upstairs balcony
level with a great view of Plac Szczepaski, the solid gold
playlist rotates funk and soul, electro, dub-step, hip-hop and
pop. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. AGW
Let us
invite you
The casual fun style sports bar offers
9 plasma screens featuring the most
exciting sport events. The unique
atmosphere and delicious tex-mex
cuisine, scrummy cocktails, drinks and
professional staff make SomePlace
Else a perfect place to relax and enjoy
time with your family, friends, business
partners and sport fun.
Let us invite you for a Journey through
world stadiums, courses and halls
because life is better when shared.
sheraton.com/krakow
Budda Drink & Garden C-3, Rynek Gwny 6, tel.

(+48) 12 421 65 22, www.budda-drink.pl. To get the
most out of Budda you need to visit in summer when adjoining
courtyard gardens transform into an al fresco dance arena.
On those chillier evenings make for the warmly lit crimson
interior illuminated by hundreds of flickering candles, while
drinkers down potent concoctions under the conceited gaze
of gold buddhas. Check out the unique mezzanine level for
ul. Powile 7
31-101 Krakw
t +48 12 662 1670
91
92
NIGHTLIFE
NIGHTLIFE
something a little different, while couples suffering a lull in
their relationship should choose a cozy nook and study the
wall paintings of randy Indian figures entwined in Kama Sutra
embraces. Though legendary, its a small club with mostly
standing-room only space, if that. So, there are more tables
and a second bar via a separate entrance at the end of the
courtyard. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. PAUXW
Bull Pub D-3, ul. Mikoajska 2, tel. (+48) 12 423 11 68,

www.bullpub.pl. What the Great British Pub once looked
like before the brewing industry was mugged by alcopops,
Wetherspoons and silly smoking laws. Squint and you could
be in the Rovers Return, what with all the glass sconces,
booth seating and pictures of fox hunting toffs. The Brit
associations and centre stage location mean a fair chance
of running into groups of lads freshly dispatched from an
EasyJet, thus disrupting the armchair atmosphere which
would otherwise be ideal for an after-work beer and maybe
a nap. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. AGW
Bunkier Cafe (Bunker) B-2, Pl. Szczepaski 3a, tel.
(+48) 12 431 05 85. Attached to Krakws best contemporary
art gallery, this enclosed terrace bar/cafe on the Planty resembles a spacious greenhouse wherein the plants have been
replaced with couples, happy hour colleagues and English teachers giving private lessons around wobbly tables and chairs. A
year-round pleasure (thanks to plenty of heaters), Bunkiers
inviting atmosphere is marred only by the slow to completely
negligible table service that cant be circumnavigated. QOpen
09:00 - 02:00, Thu, Fri, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 03:00. AXW
Cafe Szafe A-4, ul. Felicjanek 10, tel. (+48) 663 90
Nightlife at a Glance
ELITE: Those who want a touch of class will find themselves at home in Stalowe Magnolia - an impressively
dressed music venue with premium drinks, or visit Paparazzi and Baroque to engage in the best cocktails
in Krakw debate. Baccarat and Russian Enso are
music clubs for the jet set, while Taawa gives a more
upscale pulse to Kazimierz.
STUDENTS: Not your most discriminating demographic,
students will go anywhere theres fun music and cheap
drinks - namely Bdne Koo or Ministerstwo, while
those with intent to impress head to Rdza, Frantic
and Cien.
LADS: Pod Papugami and Irish MBassy - where
matches are on and the staff are used to boisterous
behaviour - welcome stag groups, as does Prozak, a
supremely naff meat market popular with local girls who
like foreign boys. Alternatively, keep it civilised inside Nic
Nowego, or head to House Of Beer for upwards of 150
Polish and foreign beers.
COUPLES: Couples looking for some face time should
snuggle in a cosy corner of wita Krowa, hide out
inside a cabinet in Caf Szafe, soak up the karma sutra
ambience of Buddha Bar, converse by candlelight in
Mleczarnia or stay home and listen to Barry White.
HIPSTERS: Take your tight pants and non-prescription
specs to Miejsce, your unfinished novel to Dym, your
photography portfolio to Pauza and your self-destructive
side to Pikny Pies.
56 52, www.cafeszafe.com. Owned by two amiable artists, Cafe Szafe has a warm, inviting atmosphere unique to
most Krakw bars - a trait which has endeared it to locals
and expats alike. With a secluded back room that frequently
hosts concerts, film and photography exhibitions, Szafe
gracefully accommodates barflies and event attendees
simultaneously. Red stencilled walls and enormous blue
cupboards and wardrobes - some of which can be sat in adorned with strange organic sculptures of birds and other
creatures furnish this long-time favourite. Recommended.
QOpen 09:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 01:00. EXW
English Football Club D-3, ul. Mikoajska 5, tel. (+48)

12 421 01 49, www.efckrakow.pl. Apparently the number
of punters coming to town demanded it. Quite literally wallto-wall football with team shirts hanging off every available
space, three lions on the floor and Sky Sports beaming
down their banal brand of hype and hyperbole. This is nothing less than stag heaven, and as such expect weekends
to be awash with Brit lads bowling around bragging about
last nights prostitute. Real men will take advantage of the
tables out back that come fitted with their own private beer
taps, though they sadly ruined one of the centres best
courtyards, formerly of Klub Re. QOpen 13:00 - 01:00, Sat
10:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. PXW
Face Cafe B-3, ul. Szewska 9, tel. (+48) 510 06 18

71, www.facecafe.com.pl. The name is half accurate and
half contradictory. Face is definitely applicable and for those
who dont mind face-control, posh dcor, and LCD screens
showing catwalks and fashion model shoots, you wont be
disappointed. If you are looking for a traditional caf, however, this is more of a lounge or posh bar. The cocktail list
goes on forever, DJs orchestrate dance parties in the back
room, and a covered garden for smokers will be open soon.
Their location in the middle of Szewska Street means they
are sure to be a very happening spot after dusk. QOpen
09:00 - 01:00, Fri 08:00 - 03:00, Sat 09:30 - 03:00, Sun
09:30 - 01:00. PAUXSW
Hard Rock Cafe C-3, Pl. Mariacki 9, tel. (+48) 12 429
11 55, www.hardrockcafe.pl. Sit back enjoying your cocktail or beer overlooking the square and the Cloth Hall from
Hard Rocks split level glass bar. The chaps here know how to
make that drink and the smiling faces can sometimes be all
you need after a day facing stern museum curators. QOpen
10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00. PAUEGBW
House Of Beer D-3, ul. w. Tomasza 35 (entrance ul.

Krzya 13), tel. (+48) 794 22 21 36, www.houseofbeerkrakow.com. House of Beer may be the best of the bars improving
the beer culture of Polands drinking capital, with over 150 bottles
and eight draught beers on hand in this high ceilinged pub full of
dark wooden furnishings and large leather sofas. Bottles can be
a bit pricey, but the local Dragon (Smok) on draft for 8z is a steal.
QOpen 14:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 02:00. PAGW
Irish Mbassy C-3, ul. Stolarska 3, tel. (+48) 12 431 02
21, www.irishmbassy.com. Cheekily stationed in the midst
of Krakws embassy row, the massive Irish MBassy is a popular place for weekenders and expats to get their passports
punched and forget where they are. Numerous TV screens
beam down live sports over three stories of original brick and
gothic details, punctuated by sponsorship signage, sports
and Irish memorabilia. Absolute madness during matches, the
doe-eyed staff do well to keep track of the orders fired at them,
while a decent line of pub grub - burgers and baguettes - makes
this a one stop solution for a long night. QOpen 12:00 - 01:30,
Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 02:30. PAEGW
Irish Pub Nic Nowego (Nothing New) D-3, ul. w.

Krzya 15, tel. (+48) 12 421 61 88, www.nicnowego.
com. Similar to a cosmopolitan Dublin Bar, the Irish-owned
Nic Nowego continues to serve as the expat communitys
primary source of hangovers. Black-clad candidates for
Miss Polska serve up a wicked array of drinks from behind
a sleek metallic bar, including the best Guinness in Poland,
while Sky Sports keeps a largely foreign audience captivated.
And the food goes beyond the quality youd expect to find in
a bar thanks to the owner Tom being a chef by trade. Handy
serving hours mean food is available as long as they are
open, something which has saved our bacon once or twice.
QOpen 07:00 - 03:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 03:00. AGW
NEW
Cheers Pub C-4, ul. Grodzka 31, tel. (+48) 783 87 25

87, www.cheers-pub.com. Obscurely tucked in a courtyard off
Grodzka Street, this apparently Scottish-owned cellar-dweller
retains its basic medieval interior with sturdy wooden furnishings, a heavy iron chandelier and raw rock walls. Unfortunately
the sole design flourish of the Scottish flag doesnt portend good
ale behind the bar (ywiec, mate?), but there is a tube above it
streaming Sky Sports. Seeking a foreign audience, it was dead
empty when we dropped in, but an expat club meets Tuesdays
at 20:00 and someone with a British or Irish accent picks up a
guitar on the small stage every Saturday night.QOpen 17:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 02:00. PEXW
Dym (Smoke) C-2, ul. w. Tomasza 13, tel. (+48) 12

429 66 61. Lost in the sauce somewhere between cafe and
bar, Dym is a long, dark drink-den, the dull design of which
is made up for by the character of the clientele: primarily
self-proclaimed artists and intellectuals that blow a lot of
smoke. How many advances and grants have been blown
here its hard to know, but spend a few nights at Dym and
youre guaranteed to become a character in at least two
unfinished novels. Yes, we were all so full of promise back
then; back before all our ambition and drive went into drink,
we went broke and ended up scribbling for this rag... Ah, glory
days. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00. PGW
COFFEE BAR DRINKS&COCKTAILS
DISCOVER A WOR
ORLD OF THE MO
O ST A
AMAZING COCKT
KTAILS IN KRAKOW
UL. SZEWSKA 9, KRAKW, FACE.CAFE@POCZTA.FM

TELEFON: +48 510 061 871, WWW.FACECAFE.PL
L
R BIL
YOU PON
F
F
O
10% HIS COU
T
H
T
I
W
93
94
NIGHTLIFE
NIGHTLIFE
Pauza C-2, ul. Floriaska 18/3, tel. (+48) 12 422 48
66, www.pauza.pl. One of the trendiest drinking dens in
the Old Town, head to this unmarked first floor bar to feel
like youre in the know. Full of stylish haircuts and sexy
dresses, Pauza twins as a photography gallery with perfectly
illuminated high-quality exhibitions, making the hipsters feel
justifiably art-smart. Furnishings are modern with low loveseats and stools and some enviable tables in the windows
overlooking Floriaska. Despite an atrocious queue for the
toilet and typically trendy house music, this is one of the best
hangout spots in the Old Town. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sun
12:00 - 24:00. IXW
Pikny Pies C-2, ul. Sawkowska 6a, www.piekny-
The Best
Guinness
in Poland!!!
Awarded rst place for quality in
Polands Guinness Competition.
ul. w. Jana 18, Tel. 012 422 61 01, 012 422 82 99, www.podpapugami.krakow.pl
Open: Mon Sun 12.00 Till the last guest
Klub Pikarski Poker D-3, ul. Mikoajska 24, tel.

(+48) 12 423 00 30, www.klubpilkarskipoker.pl.
Though the name has you thinking Hold Em, one step inside
makes it plain that this is a football mecca. Turns out round
about the time Poland was jumping off the Soviet train to
nowhere, a movie was screening around the country about a
nave man caught in the nitty gritty underworld of high stakes
wagers on rigged matches. Pikarski Poker has become a
bit of a cult film, hence the name. No poker, but plenty of live
football action and an amazing collection of Polish and other
club memorabilia nailed to the walls. A foosball table and a
pitch painted on the floor complete the effect. Given the insider name, it draws a mostly young Polish crowd and serves
the usual national beers. QOpen 14:00 - 03:00. EXW
Klub Re D-3, ul. w. Krzya 4, tel. (+48) 12 431 08 81,

www.klubre.pl. Your standard Krakowian cellar bar in most respects, Re is a stand-out for bringing touring international acts to
Krakw. Indeed, some of the citys most exciting and memorable
concerts happen at this small venue, including contemporary indy
bands from home and abroad. Check the (Polish-only) website for
information on future events. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. PXW
Lizard King C-2, ul. w. Tomasza 11a, tel. (+48) 12

422 04 75, www.lizardking.pl. Following their success
in Pozna and dz, Lizard King has brought music to the
masses of Krakw, largely otherwise deprived of a proper
rock venue. Expect paid entry to see their nightly noisy Polish
rock acts, plus expensive beer and cocktails that do nothing
to dent its popularity. An abundance of balconies and tables
leading to a large stage with an old-school LED display
pixelating behind it make up the head-banging burnt sienna
interior. Arrive early or reserve a table if you have more than
a passing interest in the evenings performance. QOpen
18:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 04:00. PAEXW
Irish Pub
Certified quality Guinness,
a wide range of whiskey,
live Irish music and live
sports on a big screen in
a great atmosphere in one
of Krakows oldest and
biggest pubs.
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(All matches shown)
No. 7 Bar C-3, Rynek Gwny 7, tel. (+48) 12 421 44

55, www.bar.number7.pl. When someone mentions a
hostel bar, No. 7 is not what typically springs to mind. Tucked
into the back of a courtyard, No. 7 is efficiently compact and
modern, with a stylish, two-tone interior and quietly competent bartenders - - the kind of place you might expect to find
a suavely dressed Double-Oh sitting at the bar, sipping on a
vodka-something, waiting for a meet-up and keeping an eye
on the courtyard packed with revellers during the hot season.
In walks a mysterious woman, and the night begins... QOpen
09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00. PAUGW
Opera Cafe Pub Restaurant C-2, ul. w. Jana 10,
tel. (+48) 12 422 02 01, www.operakrakow.pl. Gallons
of purple and futuristic glass booths upstairs make Opera a
refreshing alternative to the tried and stale dcor formulas.
The staff are tremendously friendly to the point that theyll
give you directions to another bar even if you dont buy a
drink. Now thats service. The music is cool and laid-back,
complementing the equally sophisticated back room and its
rather astonishing chandelier. As well as an impressive array
of cocktails, eats are in focus with a short but growing menu
that guided our eye and gilded our sweet tooth with its rich
desserts. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Thu 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 04:00. PABXW
Paparazzi D-3, ul. Mikoajska 9, tel. (+48) 12 429

45 97, www.paparazzi.com.pl. Krakw cocktail culture
started here. A long, narrow space plastered with candid
pics of celebs practicing their pout, Paparazzis cocktail list
is second to none and this remains first choice for anyone
looking to clinch deals over invigorating concoctions fixed by a
team of specialists. Two TVs playing sports and Murphys on
tap add to the overall appeal of this celebration of celebrity.
QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. PAXW
pies.pl. Such was the outcry when this cult venue was forced
to change locations a few years back that many responded as
if they had lost their favourite drinking buddy to an untimely
overdose. Well, hes back and his tolerance is stronger than
ever. Full of the same unwashed artists and Dylan Thomas
impersonators on the muralled ground floor, Pikny Pies 2.0
draws a fair number of students to its downstairs dancefloor
where DJs play party hits on weekends, in addition to occassional live acts. Essentially by drunks, for drunks, you
can disregard the listed hours: this place never closes and
continues to be the best choice in the Old Town for a late
night, but not a nightclub. Slop factor: 5 out of 5. QOpen
12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00. PEX
Pod Papugami Irish Pub C-2, ul. w. Jana 18, tel.

(+48) 12 422 61 01, www.podpapugami.krakow.pl.
After a couple of refurbs, Pod Papugami has doubled its
capacity, the upstairs has been beset by some fake brick
finishing and brightened a bit, and though it may have lost
some character, generally it now feels less like youre doing
your drinking inside an ephysemic lung than previously (not
a bad trade-off). Over two levels full of wooden fittings, Irish
bric-a-brac, a billiards table, darts, plasma screens streaming
sports, fresh baked pizza and pints of Murphys, Guinness,
Kilkenny and Stowford Press cider, Pod Papugami has a
friendly sociable atmosphere beloved by lads and gentlemen alike. A great place to meet people and find out just
what exactly the craic is, PP actually captures everything
we like about being in an Irish bar. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00.
PAUX
Poligamia E-4, ul. Dietla 97, tel. (+48) 793 64 04 46,

www.poligamia.com.pl. Liberally packed with a mix of
foreigners and foreign-friendly folks, this modern upstairs
bar is good place to mingle is youre feeling overwhelmed
by your lack of local language skills. Sleek, stylish and full
of steamy photos, Polygamy features the longest bar in
Krakw to prop your elbows on, plus over 40 varieties of beer
including local microbrews and foreign ales. There are also
several TVs if you and the lads are looking for someplace a
bit different to catch the match; consider reserving a table
if its a weekend. QOpen 15:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 15:00
- 02:00, Sun 17:00 - 24:00. AXW
QUBE A-5, ul. Powile 7 (Sheraton Krakw Hotel), tel.

(+48) 12 662 16 74, www.sheraton.com.pl/krakow.
Located in the Sheratons magnificent showpiece atrium,
QUBE is as sexy a spot as youll find for a drink in Krakw,
as youll notice from the glass ceiling many stories above
and the beautiful waitresses gliding around dispatching
cocktails fixed by the expert barstaff. QUBEs real claim to
fame however is the 200 brands of vodka, served not on
ice, but in special shotglasses made of ice - a fantastic way
to introduce yourself to one of PLs leading exports (after
wives, cheap labour, moustaches and machinery). QOpen
08:00 - 01:00. PAUGW
95
96
NIGHTLIFE
Polish Vodka
Proven masters of make-do with the potato as their
primary resource, the Poles have been producing and
drinking vodka since the early Middle Ages, distilling
their skill into some of the best vodka blends available
in the world, many of which date back centuries. The
two most highly regarded clear Polish vodka brands
must be Belvedere and Chopin, both of which youll find
in any alcohol shop. But you wont find many tipplers
throwing them back at the bar. While clear vodkas are
generally reserved for giving away at weddings and mixing in cocktails, the real fun of Polish vodka sampling is
the flavoured vodkas. Unlike beer with juice (regarded as
highly emasculating), flavoured vodkas are embraced by
both sexes and imbibed copiously.
Winiwka
Undoubtedl y the most common flavoured vodka,
winiwka is a cheap, dangerously easy to drink,
cherr y flavoured variety. Youll see students and
pensioners alike buying trays of it at the bar, as well
as toothless tramps sharing a bottle in corners of
tenement courtyards. A splash of grapefruit juice is
often added to cut the sweetness of this bright red
monogamy cure.
odkowa Gorzka
Due to its very name, which translates to something like
Bitter Stomach Vodka, odkowa Gorzka gives even the
most infirm of health an excuse to drink under the guise
of its medicinal properties. An aged, amber-coloured
vodka flavoured with herbs and spices, odkowa has
a unique aroma and sweet spiced taste unlike anything
youre likely to have tried before. Incredibly palatable, its
best enjoyed when sipped on ice.
Krupnik
Popular in Poland and Lithuania, Krupnik is a sweet vodka
made from honey and a multitude of herbs. Buy a bottle
for Mum drinking vodka doesnt get any easier than this.
In winter, hot krupnik is a popular personal defroster with
hot water, lemon and mulling spices added.
ubrwka
One o f Polands most popular overseas vodka
exports, ubrwka has been produced in Eastern
Poland since the 16th century. Flavoured with a type
of grass specific to the primeval Biaowiea Forest
that straddles the border (a blade of which appears
in each bottle), ubrwka is faint yellow in colour,
with a mild fragrance of mown hay and a subtle taste
which has been described as floral or having traces
of almond or vanilla. Delightfully smooth as it is on
its own, ubrwka is most commonly combined with
apple juice a refreshing concoction called a tatanka.
Goldwasser
A celebrated Gdask tradition since 1598, Goldwasser
is a unique alchemic elixir characterised by the 22 karat
gold flakes floating in it. One of the oldest liqueurs in
the world, Goldwassers secret recipe contains some
20 roots and herbs, combining to create a sweet, but
spicy flavour with touches of anise, pepper and mint.
While we thought turning the potato into vodka was an
example of creative ingenuity, were not sure what sort
of statement the practice of turning gold into vodka
makes about Polish culture...
NIGHTLIFE
Salt & Co B-4, ul. Straszewskiego 17 (Radisson Blu
Hotel), tel. (+48) 12 618 88 88, www.radissonblu.
com. Drinking in the Radisson is as therapeutic as a shot
of valium. Located directly opposite the Planty, Salt & Co.
comes with a bright interior complimented by seats in dark
purple with tiles using salt directly from the Wieliczka Mine
embedded in the walls. Polite staff serve a choice of complicated cocktails, drinks, snacks and desserts as soft jazz and
suchlike slides from the speakers. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00,
Sun 09:00 - 24:00. PAUGW
SomePlace Else A-5, ul. Powile 7 (Sheraton Krakw
Hotel), tel. (+48) 12 662 16 70, krakow.someplace-else.
pl. Nine plasma screens for live sports, friendly staff and a quality menu of bar eats that steers towards the Tex-Mex end of the
spectrum make SPE an easy place to witness your down time
overpower whatever itinerary you thought you had in Krakw.
The list of world beers goes above and beyond the usual choice
of local liquids, and the American interior is a combo of Yank
road signs and pics of rocknroll heroes. Though not open late,
this low-key expat and itinerants bar is still your best bet for
convincing the staff to help you watch your favourite MLB, NFL
or NBA team in action. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Mon, Sun 12:00
- 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. PAUXW
Spoem C-2, ul. w. Tomasza 4, tel. (+48) 12 421
79 79, www.pubspolem.pl. Cheekily borrowing their
name from a cooperative network of shops prolific across
Poland during communist times (many of which are still
open), Spoems underground cellars are cluttered with
communist-era appliances and plastered with propaganda
posters and discontinued banknotes. The Soviet-nostalgia
also applies to the smokey atmosphere and the kitsch
Polish pop/disco parties held in the back room where the
DJ station is cleverly tucked into a Soviet-era truck and the
dance floor packed with fun-loving revelers young enough
to enjoy the irony. I guess you can count us among them,
because we had a great time. QOpen 17:00 - 04:00, Fri,
Sat 17:00 - 05:00. PAXW
Sports Pub C-4, ul. Grodzka 50, tel. (+48) 12 422 40

73, www.sportspub.pl. This formerly characterless cellar
has been filled with the requisite memorabilia, a billiards table,
football table (free!) and 6 LED TVs to give you an alternative
to some of Krakws more stag-happy sports pubs. The teles
arent huge, but there is a three metre projection screen ready
for the big match; that said, we can imagine things getting
pretty cramped. With more locals than foreigners, this stands
as a better place to find some casual sports cameraderie
or challenge the neighbourhood joystick jockeys to Pro Evo;
play free every day and ask about frequent tourneys. QOpen
15:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 01:00. EXW
Stary Port (The Old Port) B-3, ul. Straszewskiego 27

(entrance from ul. Jabonowskich), tel. (+48) 12 430 09
62, www.staryport.com.pl/krakow. Krakows only sailor
bar could be best described in three words only: Never-ending
drunken singalong. This candlelit ship-in-a-bottle is packed
full of students and seamen on permanent shore-leave
and the selkies, sirens and sea-wenches that love them.
Wielopole 15
If youre looking for the legendary 4-club complex known
as Wielopole 15, we're afraid you're late to the party.
Following an accident where the stairs collapsed resulting in a dozen hospital visits, the complex has closed,
probably forever.
Irish bar
Nic Nowego
modern Irish bar Nic Nowego

ul. w. Krzya 15, 31-028 Krakw
tel.: 12-421-61-88
Mon - Fri 7:00 - 3:00, Sat - Sun 9:00 - 3:00
nicnowego@yahoo.com
The One and Only 100% Irish

Owned Bar and Restaurant
People ask Why Nic Nowego ... Well, with over 300
bars and restaurants in the Old Town of Krakow we
decided on something a little different the bar with
Irish owner and Polish name that has been serving the
Local Community and Tourists alike for the last 8 years.
Here you find service with a smile, the best pint of
guinness outside of Dublin and all day breakfast
to die for. You are welcome -
w w w . n i c n o w e g o . c o m
Surrounded by nautical knick-knacks, salty, sea-creased
musicians sing shanties into the wee hours (particularly on
Thursday nights) and fellowship is found at the bottom of
every bottle. Our favourite pub/plank to walk. Fetch aft the
rum, Marcin! Q Open 09:00-01:00, Thu, Fri 09:00-03:00,
Sat 12:00-03:00, Sun 12:00-01:00. AEXW
wita Krowa (The Holy Cow) C-2, ul. Floriaska

16, tel. (+48) 12 429 59 51, www.swietakrowa.
com. Perhaps the most enchanting and laidback bar in
the Old Town, wita Krowa is an intoxicating alchemic
elixir of alcohol, incense, candlelight, cloves and ambient
eastern grooves. Hidden in a small, soulful brick cellar
off Floriaska, The Holy Cow inhabits two oriental sitting
rooms slung with prayer flags, low cushioned stools and
two lofted lounge areas. Amiable barmen conjure a range
of invigorating alcohol infusions and in winter this is the
perfect hideaway for a hot krupnik (and maybe an opium
nap). We miss the terrarium, but wita Krowa is still a
highly recommended cult hangout. QOpen 16:00 - 03:00,
Fri, Sat 16:00 - 05:00. XW
Vis a Vis C-3, Rynek Gwny 29, tel. (+48) 12 422 69
61. Perhaps the only space on the Rynek to survive Krakws
tourist boom with its scummy integrity intact, Vis a Vis is a
timeless local favourite happy to tell foreigners to piss off
while indulging pensioned Polish drunkards until their heads
hit the beermat. Sadly forced to inflate to 8z a pint, this is
still the cheapest drink on the Rynek, making its seasonal
outdoor tables the first you should look for a seat in before
sending your most competent compatriot to fetch a drink
inside the small stool-laden bar where watching the local
barflies makes for an intriguing social study. One of the few
remaining remnants of the real Krakw that the Rynek has
left. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00. UGW
Gay & Lesbian

BlueXL Bar D -5, ul. Dietla 85, www.bluexl.pl.
Enter through a discreet courtyard entrance and
prepare to think about Poland in an entirely di fferent light. A men-only sex club of the naughtiest
variety, those already well versed in such adventures
already know the score. For those who dont, expect
a labyrinth of rooms where any things possible
including porn films, fetish nights, mutual groping
and much more. Theres also a space to just sit
and drink if it all gets a bit out of control. QOpen
20:00 - 03:00, Fri 20:00 - 06:00, Sat 20:00 - 07:00.
PAXW
Cocon Music Club E-7, ul. Gazowa 21, tel.
(+48) 12 632 22 96, www.klub - cocon.pl. Cocon has been running under the radar for almost
a decade, building steam and a solid reputation
for outrageous parties while maintaining a safe,
friendly atmosphere. Krakws biggest, brashest
gay club, theres no avoiding the dancefloor here
where upon entering the door a sea of writhing
bodies separates you from any intentions you
might have of getting a drink at one of the three
bars. Indiscretions take place in the dim lighting
of two side rooms, campy karaoke every Thursday,
and wild disco dance parties into the wee hours on
Friday and Saturday nights, but the party promptly
and unapologetically stops when management has
had enough. QOpen 21:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon,
Tue, Wed, Sun. PUX
97
98
NIGHTLIFE
Jazz Clubs
Poland has a long jazz tradition and a strong crop of
home-grown jazz talents. In Krakws Old Town youll
find several popular jazz clubs that offer live music every
night, the best of which we list below. Krakw also hosts
several jazz festivals each year worth keeping an ear
out for including Julys Jazz Summer Festival in Piwnica
Pod Baranami, October and Novembers Autumn Jazz
Festival in Alchemia, and Europes oldest jazz festival:
the All Souls Jazz Festival, which takes place in various
venues during the week before and after All Souls Day
(November 2nd).
Boogie D-3, ul. Szpitalna 9, tel. (+48) 12 429

43 06, www.boogiecafe.pl. Cream and black colour
schemes, lacquered surfaces and pictures of jazz legends combine to create the seductive atmosphere of
one of Krakws top jazz bars. Lacking a proper stage,
jazz vixens wail by the piano (which inconspicuously does
its best impression of a table) on Friday and Saturday
nights: most often adorable young Polish vocalists with
their funny-looking accompanist, neither of whom take
themselves too seriously. Stick around late enough
and they might let you steal the microphone... QOpen
12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. AUEXW
Harris Piano Jazz Bar C-3, Rynek Gwny 28,
tel. (+48) 12 421 57 41, www.harris.krakow.pl.
This downstairs jazz den is frequent host to outstanding
concerts, yet remains one of our least favourite venues
thanks to the small, cluttered seating arrangement: If you
havent reserved a table for the show, youll find nowhere
to sit and if you have reserved a chair, once you take your
seat youve no chance of getting up again. Aggravating
the dilemma are the girls on the market square baiting
more and more tourists past the ticket vendors where
theyll then have no view of the action. Though Harris can
be hotter than a suana in summer, it serves as a great
winter bolthole best enjoyed when musicians are at the
bar, not on stage. QOpen 13:00 - 02:00. PAEGW
Stalowe Magnolie (Steel Magnolias) C-2,
ul. w. Jana 15, tel. (+48) 12 422 84 72, www.
stalowemagnolie.com. Not dissimilar to a 1920s
Parisian brothel, the interior of this legendary venue is
an appealing blend of scarlet fabrics and deep sofas,
with jewel-encrusted pictureframes and strings of red
fairy lights hanging from wrought iron fixtures. Instruments cling to the walls as a team of young waitresses
in evening dress bring premium-priced drinks to your
table. The live music is frequently outstanding, with
velvet-voiced chanteuses crooning into the night to the
appreciative applause of sharply attired couples and
Rolexed businessmen. A small fee gets you into the VIP
section with its own DJ station and bar, where plush,
silk-canopied beds forbid bashful behavior. QOpen
19:00 - 02:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 04:00. PAEX
The Piano Rouge C-3, Rynek Gwny 46, tel.

(+48) 12 431 03 33, www.thepianorouge.com. A pet
project from the same team behind Stalowe Magnolie, so
expect much of the same. The interior is a sensory delight
washed in red, with plush loveseats, scattered cushions,
exotic lamps and an outstanding bartop lined with piano
keys. The Parisian decadence is matched perfectly with
live piano and jazz performances. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00,
Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00. AEG
NIGHTLIFE
Clubs
With roughly 120,000 students and a growing tourist
industry egging it on, Krakws club scene continues to
expand beyond reason, with each successive offing trying to out-swank its predecessor. The main hedonist high
streets are Floriaska (C-2/3) and Szewska (B-3) where
narry a medieval cellar will be left unthronged by sexed-up
students on a Friday or Saturday night. For the specifics of
whats on daily visit krakow.inyourpocket.com and check
out our Events Calendar - giving you a breakdown of all the
evenings club nights with one click. Clubs in the Kazimierz
district appear in their own section.
Baccarat C-3, ul. Stolarska 13, tel. (+48) 695 11 67

60, www.baccaratclub.pl. Walk beyond the velvet rope
of Baccarat and you notice one thing immediately: a lot of
money has been spent on making this arguably the most
stylish and extravagant music club in Krakw. Covered in
plush upholstery and full of fine touches including every
elegant chandelier and lamp, the giant mirrorball DJ station,
and even a room with a dance-pole and wall-size mirror that
can be coyly curtained off, Baccarat clearly raises the bar
on Krakws nightlife scene. Of note is that this swanky
swish tank of a place and was a standard bearer in the
smoky days of Krakow cellar bars by being the first to go
completely non-smoking and it shows. That said it has now
adapted to the new reality and created a separate smoking
room inside. QOpen 20:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed,
Sun. PAEX
Bdne Koo (Vicious Circle) C-3, ul. Bracka 4 (first
floor), tel. (+48) 790 21 99 90, www.blednekolo.pl.
Through the courtyard and up the stairs on your left, Bdne
Koo enjoys a sound reputation for stellar DJ sets and neverending parties, despite the fact that its little more than a
dive. That said, its exactly the kind of dive we enjoy - full of
students, cheap drinks and eclectic above-average music.
True, every room of the unimpressive interior looks exactly
like the last - red walls, red lighting, random photos and brown
leather couches with cigarette burns - but the sheer size of
this first floor tenement is sprawling, overlooking both the
street and the courtyard with a fantastic balcony. On weekends expect to hear it coming a block away, expend some
cash at the door and miss church in the morning. QOpen
16:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 06:00. PAEXW
BonTon C-4, Pl. Dominikaski 4, tel. (+48) 603 12 34

98, www.bonton-krakow.com. BonTons biggest draw is
the daily drink specials luring young lads and lasses down the
long corridor and into this oasis closed off from the rest of
the world. A ground floor bar features a few tables that make
use of the sky as a ceiling, while down a unique set of stairs
with water flowing under them (used for a flirty photo shoot
during our visit) youll find a huge dancefloor, a wall of falling
water, plenty of seating and a bar on top of two enormous fish
tanks. Its a decent gimmick enhanced by primary colours,
giving BonTon a fun atmosphere where students move their
feet to keep from falling down. QOpen 16:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat
16:00 - 04:00. PAUXW
Centrala C-3, May Rynek 4, tel. (+48) 12 422 16

67, www.klubcentrala.pl. Descend the most dangerous
stairs in Krakw into this positively massive club and music
venue spidering throughout several underground rooms
with two bars and even two garden spaces. Full of uneven
plaster painted over in white, the entire place looks like it
could be wrapped in gauze, while the pipes overhead have
been painted in bold colours to stand out. The stage hidden
in the very back is a great venue for catching local live acts
and DJ sets, while the preceding rooms possess more of a

laid-back bar atmosphere, making it permissible to meet
for a beer without getting all tarted up and teasing the boys.
QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 04:00, Sun 17:00 24:00. AEXW
Cie (Shadow) C-2, ul. w. Jana 15, tel. (+48) 12 422

21 77, www.cienklub.com. One of Krakws best clubs for
several years running, Cie is a wet dream for foreign lads
weaned on commercial house music and enjoying favourable exchange rates while being fawned over by bombshell
blondes who make a sport of their sex appeal. It may be all
smoke, mirrors and false phone numbers under the interrogation lamp of the morning, but witness yourself scrambling
back for more. More posturing than truly exclusive, your impatience with the door queue is the most likely thing to keep you
out of Cies dark medieval cellars, as long as youve made
the effort to look the part and can stand up straight. QOpen
21:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Sun. PAXW
Diva Music Gallery C-3, ul. w. Tomasza 20, tel. (+48)
12 429 20 66, www.divaclub.pl. A young fashionistas
idea of paradise, Diva unfolds over two levels: the sexy cellar club full of disco balls and laser beams, leather divans
and scantily-clad sirens beyond the red velvet rope, and the
new ground floor cocktail lounge for those who dont make
it past the pretentious face control. The former makes for a
fun place to mingle with coquettish calendar girls between
pretending to enjoy dancing to soulless electro music, while
the latter is a better daytime destination for being seen with
an expensive cocktail before swanking off to your own selfimage in one of the many mirrors suspended on the walls.
Oh, and the more time you spend there, the more people will
like you and want to be just like you! QOpen 11:00 - 05:00,
Fri, Sat 11:00 - 06:00. PAUEXW
Forty Kleparz I-1, ul. Kamienna 2-4, tel. (+48) 606 38

83 13, www.fortykleparz.pl. Making use of a neglected,
oft-unnoticed 19th century Austrian bastion north of the Old
Town, Forty Kleparz has emerged as Krakws hippest new
destination for live music and club nights. Drawing an impressive number of quality national and foreign artists to its
stage since opening, the 200 person concert hall posesses
modern professional sound and lighting while the areas flanking it feature plenty of chic seating, screens for viewing the
action on-stage and two bars. Open Thursday to Saturday
and during events only, to get there take trams number 3 or
7 to the Nowy Kleparz stop. QOpen 20:00 - 04:00. Closed
Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. PAEXW
Frantic C-3, ul. Szewska 5, tel. (+48) 12 423 04 83,
www.frantic.pl. Dance alongside hourglass figures in
what has roared back from a refurb to reassert itself as
one of Krakws best clubs/meat markets. The redesign
is your typical Krakw cellar contrast of rough exposed
rock, modern-minimal decor and illuminated boxes, but
the newly installed soundsystem has lured the best DJs
around to put together a regular programme of top parties for Polish pussycats and their savvy suitors. A feast
of flesh and fast times for those with well-rehearsed
chat-up lines eager to jump inside the cats pajamas.
QOpen 22:00 - 03:00, Thu 21:00 - 03:00. Closed Mon,
Tue, Sun. PAXW
Follow POLANDIYP on
Wine Bars
Bar 13 C-3, Rynek Gwny 13 (Pasa 13), tel.
(+48) 12 617 02 50, www.lhr.com.pl. This tasteful
bar marries the posh delikatessen and wine shop it lies
between offering tortes and paninis, as well as wine by
the glass. Located in Krakws nicest shopping mall,
drinking wine under a stairwell has never been this classy
and makes for a welcome break from being teased by
the 3000z shoes for sale nearby. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00,
Sun 11:00 - 17:00. PAUGW
Wine Garage C-4, ul. Poselska 20, tel. (+48) 606
74 55 47. At Wine Garage youll find a weekly menu of
familiar Italian and Polish dishes that complements their
wine selection, which - as you would expect - is huge, as
are the choices of coffee and the kitchen itself. There is
also a great selection of organic wines, imports from small
independent wine-makers, and plenty of international
cheese to go along with them. If youre determined to go
wine shopping and want a bigger selection, visit their shop
at ul. Jzefitw 8 (H-1).QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. AGW
Winiarnia Restauracja Klimaty Poudnia C-4,

ul. w. Gertrudy 5, tel. (+48) 12 422 03 57, www.
klimatypoludnia.pl. A simple interior designed to mimic
a sunny Mediterranean farmhouse comes with all the
requisite flagstones and timber beams, while the menu
breezes through numerous sweet and savoury French
offerings. The food menu is small and concise, the wine
list is anything but, and definitely worth perusal. Find this
highly likable wine house in a courtyard across from the
Planty. QOpen 13:00 - 24:00. AIEGW
99
100
NIGHTLIFE
NIGHTLIFE
Imbir D-3, ul. w. Tomasza 35, tel. (+48) 12 427 56 77.
If youre tired of trendy new clubs that give themselves Google
meta-tags instead of names (Electro-hop dub n bass techno
trip-trance dance party tonight at Chillout Music Gallery Cafe
Lounge & Cocktail Concept Club! Starts 22:30. Entry 20z.),
then you might enjoy reminding yourself how it feels to hang
out in a classic Cracovian student club. Remember when going
out in Krakw meant tumbling down the stairs of a cellar into
a raucous dive full of cheap drinks, sociable students, wacky
absinthe-inspired artwork and unpredictable, outdated music?
Where the beer taps hadnt been cleaned for years, the bricks
were black with tar, and when the legs of your chair suddenly
fell out from under you a vodka shot would be extended rather
than a hand? If it werent for Imbir, we might miss those days. As
eclectic and unpretentious as they come, check their Facebook
page for everything from concerts and DJ sets to cult movie
nights and variety shows. QOpen 18:00 - 04:00. PEXW
Jazz Rock Caf C-2, ul. Sawkowska 12, www.jazzrockcafe.pl. Refusing to fit into any category, Jazz Rock Caf falls into
the trap of being rather normal. Aimed at people who eschew
designer labels and fancy haircuts, what you get is a cellar full of
people who look like theyve been dressed by their mums, chatting
away over a beer and dancing to a mishmash of music from all
over the world. Theyve begrudgingly added a smoking section
by making the entire dancefloor and seating area (the bulk of the
entire bar) smoking-friendly, while leaving the smaller - and more
stylish - back bar as the only haven for non-smokers. QOpen
17:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 05:00. PEXW
Prozak C-4, Pl. Dominikaski 6, tel. (+48) 512 35 53 05,

www.prozak.pl. Having fallen from favour amongst Krakws
most serious clubbers, Prozak has worked hard to re-establish
itself on the cutting edge of the citys club scene and succeeded
impressively with a long-running line-up of top international DJs
on weekends: Icelands Gus Gus was presiding over the party
as we wrote this. Occupying a seemingly endless maze of
underground rooms over two levels with an incredible four bars
and three dancefloors, the crowd is fun, flirty and foreign-friendly
as DJs rattle the decks until the natural selection of those with
blondes and those with kebabs takes place in the blurry light of
another dawn. Much of Krakws expat community has Prozak
to blame for their long-term tenure. QOpen 20:00 - 04:00, Fri,
Sat 20:00 - 05:00. PAEXW
Rdza (Rust) C-3, ul. Bracka 3-5, tel. (+48) 600 39 55

41. This cave-like basement with a door queue rates as one of
the best clubs on call in Krakw. Look your best to make it past
face control then take your place on the dance floor alongside
delicious looking party creatures. Imported DJs and the cream
of Polish house music keep the party rocking into silly oclock.
QOpen 21:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Sun. PAGW
(+48) 12 422 48 66, www.klubpauza.pl. Enjoying a sophisticated reputation thanks to legendary electro nights, if
thats not your scene then Klub Pauza is great for little more
than asphyxiating to death. Cavernous, subterranean drinkdwellings have become somewhat unremarkable in Krakw,
and though this one gets cred for being just as difficult to find
as the well-loved and established first-floor bar that shares its
name, it lacks its predecessors creative spark (and effective
ventilation). Nonetheless its better than most bars elsewhere in
the world. QOpen 18:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Sun. AXW
Russian Enso A-1, ul. Karmelicka 52, tel. (+48) 12 633 65

20, www.russianenso.pl. After a restyling and curious renaming, the new Russian Enso has used the surprise inspiration of
Moscow style to make an aesthetic transition from slightly gaudy,
trendy and futuristic-looking to tastefully luxurious, sensual and
organically ornate (scratch head, shrug shoulders). The brilliant
design combines modern chic with old world couture in a palate
of red, black and gold that features plush satin cushions and
leather walls. The highlight is the circular salon with a twisting
golden tree spreading its roots across a ceiling textured to look
like topsoil - a unique design element also oddly applied above the
dancefloor. Despite being off the beaten path, Russian Enso has
attracted Krakws burgeoning jet set and their high-heeled arm
candy with a top-notch sound system, epic parties and expert
cocktails. Open Thurs to Sat only, a new restaurant on the ground
floor now serves tasty fusion food as long as the club is kicking
off. Recommended. QOpen 21:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Tue,
Wed, Sun. PAXW
Klub Pauza C-2, ul. Floriaska 18 (underground), tel.
Aromatic hookahs
Stylish interiors
Oriental music
Air conditioning
Belly Dancing Shows
on Fri&Sat nights
Klub Pod Jaszczurami (Under the Lizards) C-3, Rynek
Shakers B-3, ul. Szewska 5 (first floor), tel. (+48) 660
Gwny 8, tel. (+48) 12 429 45 38, www.instytutsztuki.

pl. One of the oldest and most infamous student clubs in
Krakw, Pod Jaszczurami mixes academic sophistication and
sophomoric mayhem. Effectively an extension of the university
common room, students and alumni gather for a range of weekly
events from political lectures to poetry readings to film screenings, while daily live concerts have lured some of the best acts
in PL for the last 40 years. On weekends Under the Lizards is
decidedly more of a drunk tank than a think tank, playing host to
absolutely silly karaoke parties with a live band under the gothic
arches of this historic Rynek townhouse. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00,
Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. PAEXW
Drink bar
Ministerstwo (The Ministry) C-3, ul. Szpitalna 1,
11 40 34, www.shakers.com.pl. Actually the name references the cocktail twisting barstaff, but there are still plenty
of shimmying posteriors in here. Shakers is your classic
Cracovian cocktail club: just snooty enough for the concept
to succeed, but not so up its own...shaker that you wont
have a great time. DJ nights range from funk to electro, with
the action happening on an intimate dancefloor between
the bar and posh toilets. Cocktails range from 13 to 30z
and though the list isnt that creative, the bartenders put on
an impressive juggling show. Violet walls, black booths with
gaudy gold pillows that match the round gold tables and the
ubiquitous FTV make up the decor of this velvet rope affair.
QOpen 16:00 - 05:00, Wed 16:00 - 24:00. PAXW
Krakw, May Rynek 2

phone: 12 421 64 98
www.shisha.pl
tel. (+48) 12 421 12 17, www.klubministerstwo.pl.

A well-loved design in this subterranean sinners resort
features lots of tile, gold brick, exposed rock, three bars,
two DJ stations and raised seating areas to retreat from the
dancefloor action where an eclectic range of funk, old school
and break beats are likely to lure you. The smell of Tabasco
from mad dog shots lingers at the bar where bronze assgroping barstools give you a free frisking. Always packed with
students and party people, Ministerstwo hosts the citys best
midweek party on otherwise sleepy Tuesday nights and the
laidback ground-floor garden is one of the best kept secrets
in Krakw during the warmer months. QOpen 18:00 - 03:00,
Tue, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 04:00. PAEXW
Shisha Club C-3, May Rynek 2, tel. (+48) 12 421 64

98, www.shisha.pl. A Tunisian-owned den of oriental exotica,
Shisha Clubs cup runneth over with draped fabrics, oriental
rugs, stained glass lanterns, colourful cushions and intricate
tiles. Navigate an underground labyrinth of rooms with names
like Sultans Chamber and Shishas Bazaar before settling
down in the plush nook of your choice and selecting from a
long list of aromatic tobaccos, drinks and even some Mediterranean dishes. Ideal for a quiet make out with your significant
other, a sedated evening with friends, or if your crowd turns
up for one of the weekend belly dancing performances, you
might just find the absurdity of the setting to be infectiously
fun. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. PJAX
Adult Entertainment
Night Club 66 J-1, Al. 29 Listopada 165, tel. (+48)
12 418 16 50, www.nightclub66.pl. While a few nightclubs around the Old Town have become downright dodgy of
late, this discreet pleasure den north of the centre doesnt
pull any punches. Ogle playful stripteases as multiple vixens
grace the oddly, shall we say, amoeba-shaped stage at the
same time, eager to undress each other; Pole-on-pole action at its best. Laid out over two 200m levels, the decor is a
screwy mix of odd lighting and organic shapes and guarded
parking ensures your wife doesnt take a golf club to the
family car. Beer and booze start at 9z and there are a variety
of private dances available; for more of an idea, check out
the film on 66s website: skintillating. QOpen 21:00 - 03:00,
Thu, Fri, Sat 21:00 - 04:00. PAX
Taboo Gentlemens Club C-2, ul. Floriaska 33
(entrance from ul. w. Marka), tel. (+48) 12 426
26 06, www.tabooclub.pl. There was a time when
Krakows gentlemens clubs were relegated to the outer
limits and the grey areas of its urban grid (you know,
Dietla Street, around the train station). Whether you view
this as a good or bad thing, Taboo has been allowed to
set a new precedent by becoming the most centrally
located strip club in the Old Town. Find leather couches
to lounge on alongside ladies in lingerie, sculptures of
naked women holding up glass tabletops to set your
drink on and six curtained VIP rooms for privacy. Gone,
it would seem, are the days when the kebab stand was
the sauciest stop on a Floriaska pub crawl and honestly,
could it really be Poland without Pole dancing? QOpen
20:00 - 06:00. PAXW
101
102
KAZIMIERZ NIGHTLIFE
When the steady revitalisation of Krakws former Jewish

district began back in the nineties, much of the investment
came from business owners able to purchase derelict buildings, fill them with the curbside detritus pervading the area
that passes for furniture, add a shelf of liquers and presto!
- open a dark, dishevelled bar that perfectly captured the
spirit of the neighbourhood. The district quickly became
synonymous with cafes choked with smoke, candlelight,
antiques and bohemians, where under the stewardship of
alcohol one might be able to commune with a lost, forgotten
world beneath the haze. As the areas clean-up, aided by the
1993 release of Schindlers List, brought more and more
tourists to its historical sights, Kazimierz went through a
renaissance that saw it quickly develop into the citys hippest neighbourhood. Today the area is chock-a-block with
bars, clubs and restaurants, even ousting the Old Town per
square metre, and though a trace of that original charisma
vanishes with each new cocktail bar opening, there is no
better place in Krakw for a night out. Kazimierzs history
makes it a requisite stop for tourists, but it is the districts
nightlife that gives it its true vitality and much of the mystique
it still carries today.
Kazimierz Bars
Alchemia E-6, ul. Estery 5, tel. (+48) 12 421 22 00,
www.alchemia.com.pl. One of Krakws most evocative
bars, aptly-named Alchemia perfectly captures the sepia
candlelight, forgotten photographs and antique intrigues
of the former Jewish district. A dim bohemian cafe by day
with square-side outdoor tables, in the evenings Alchemias
murky mystique metamorphoses blood into beer for the
ruddy regulars and increasing number of tourists queuing
before the indifferent barstaff. The cellar, when its not
being used as a student disco, plays host to some of the
best concerts in town and is a prime participant in annual
jazz and klezmer festivals. Quintessential Krakw. QOpen
09:00 - 02:00, Mon 10:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 04:00.
AEXW
Kazimierz Clubs
Pozytywka (The Music Box) D-6, ul. Boego
Ciaa 12, tel. (+48) 12 430 64 82, www.pozytywka.
pl. Completely un-Kazimierz in design, a stark, modern,
industrial motif comes paired with classic dance music
and red, blue and green disco lights. The posh upstairs,
with projections, exhibitions and charisma, is a popular
pre-club spot where you can relax before gaining the
liquid courage to head down to the dancefloor and show
off your moves in the large basement. A fun, friendly and
casual club, smoking is permitted on weekends only,
while on Weds and Sat afternoons a fortune-teller does
tarot readings (in Polish only) upstairs. QOpen 09:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 04:00. PAW
Taawa D-6, ul. Estery 18, tel. (+48) 12 421 06 00,

www.taawa.pl. Orange-skinned mini-skirted solarium
casualties will feel at home in this modern discotheque
that is clearly bringing a pretentious clubbing vibe into
this most unpretentious of neighborhoods. Carpeting,
illuminated glass tables and purple leather furnishings
round out this refreshingly one room affair where longlegged lookers dance to disappointingly mainstream
music. Looking to outclass Krakws other clubs, Taawa
succeeds easily, especially in design, with strict facecheck and dress code. QOpen 21:00 - 05:00. Closed
Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. PAX
KAZIMIERZ NIGHTLIFE
Aloha Caf D-6, ul. Miodowa 28a, tel. (+48) 517 45 51

11, www.alohacafe.pl. This kitschy Hawaiian pub features
a colourful cocktail list with David Hasselhoff on the front, walls
adorned with photos of palm-lined beaches and sand spread
liberally across the floor. Most fun are the telephones installed
at each table, enabling you to order your next drink without getting up, or call the cutie at the next table without having to do
the hard work of getting her number first. The weekend beach
parties and luaus beckoning local barefoot beauties in coconut
bikinis and grass skirts, are an excellent excuse to get silly. High
five. QOpen 14:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 03:00. AEGW
BeerGallery - Kazimierz E-6, ul. Warszauera 10, tel.
(+48) 601 40 88 70, www.beergallery.pl. A beguiling
jamboree of reproduction 18th-century furniture and cuttingedge dcor sets the stage for a friendly affair populated by
chirpy locals and over 100 beers including the fabulous La
Trappe and Kozel to name but a couple of tipples. Upbeat,
and including the addition of a small dance floor towards
the back, this is what Kazimierz was invented for. A splendid
option for lovers of a good night out, especially those who
appreciate their ale. Another location in the Old Town at
ul. Dominikaska 3 (C-4). QOpen 15:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun
12:00 - 01:00. PUEGW
NEW
Cafe Kalashnikov D-6, ul. Boego Ciaa 7, tel. (+48)

728 87 10 71. Weve been waiting for the day something
would finally open in this lovely and painstakingly restored
Kazimierz tenement. Cafe Kalashnikov marks that occasion
rather quietly as a small, poorly-lit, laid-back bar patroned
by young alternative types gathered around great beer while
discovering Jimmy Cliff and growing out their dreadlocks.
The decor pays homage to its namesake by cleverly photoshopping the famous Russian assault rifle into the sepia
interwar pinups on the walls, with a few Soviet radios and
gas-masked mannequins laying around. The vibe is good
and the Polish micro-brews are great, but in an area full of
memorable bars it fails to really stand out. QOpen 12:00 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00. GW
Eszeweria D-6, ul. Jzefa 9, tel. (+48) 517 49 19 27,

www.myspace.com/eszeweria. Though seemingly oxymoronic, Eszeweria actually thrives thanks to the stewardship of
ambitious, music-loving bohemians. Perhaps embodying the
spirit of Kazimierz more than any bar not directly on Plac Nowy,
Eszewerias old world antiques, candleabras, frosty mirrors
and murky, stencilled walls regularly play host to some of the
citys most novel concerts, having become the go-to contact
for overseas artists slumming around Europe. Though the
stage (or lack thereof) is awkward, the atmosphere is intimate
and friendly, and the restroom may be the most romantic in
town (no wonder theres a queue). Recommended. QOpen
12:00 - 02:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. EXW
Krlicze Oczy (Rabbit Eyes) D-6, ul. Estery 14, tel.

(+48) 12 431 10 31. Combining that quintessential Kazimierz aesthetic of tarnished beauty with a strange sense
of sinister absurdity, spending too much time in this veteran
vodka wallow - with its excellent year-round patio - will have
you feeling like you inhaled too much of the Jokers goofy
gas. Sepia portraits of interwar nudes with red eyes line
the walls, strings of glass beads hang over each doorway,
broken-spined books lie on a trolley and, for good measure,
a comedy wig and a pair of rabbit ears dangle next to the
bar. Completely random and removed from reality, this small
standby is as good a rabbit-hole to go down as any; good
luck wiping that smile off your face. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00,
Fri 12:00 - 04:00, Sat 09:00 - 04:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00.
AGW
Le Scandale D-6, Pl. Nowy 9, tel. (+48) 12 430 68

55, www.lescandale.pl. Some of the best cocktails in
Krakw - test the Bahama Mama - served inside a series
of sleek rooms that throng with Bond girls and people who
look like they may well be minor celebs. Great fusion food,
an enormous garden (heated in winter) and sexy service,
this is modern Krakw at its strongest. You may not want
to leave. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 03:00.
PAUBXW
Les Couleurs D-6, ul. Estery 10, tel. (+48) 12 429 42
70. The quintessential thinking mans cafe, Les Couleurs
is a special favourite among Krakws aging, dog-faced
bohemians, androgynous hipsters who wear oversized,
non-prescription glasses and anyone with a laptop. Plastered
with classic French posters and photos of Serge Gainsbourg,
Kazimierzs most well-lit bar - and one of its most well-loved
- is an anytime affair where cigarettes, coffee, beer, bile and
blood are as interchangable and easily confused as work,
pleasure and art; as day and night. Recommended. QOpen
07:00 - 24:00, Fri 07:00 - 02:00, Sat 08:00 - 02:00, Sun
08:00 - 24:00. UXW
Miejsce (The Place) D-6, ul. Estery 1, tel. (+48)

783 09 60 16, www.miejsce.com.pl. Opened by the
owners of a retro interior decor store by the same name,
Miejsce instantly established itself as Krakws hipster
headquarters. With half the patrons not hesitating to go
behind the bar themselves, here youve put yourself at
the centre of a closely-knit social scene, which a flapper
dress or oversized spectacles and tight pants will ease
your integration into, if thats the goal. Decked out in
a rainbow of chairs and lamps of different shapes and
sizes, offset by hastily painted white walls and fantastic
Polish film posters, Miejsce is effortlessly original with
a post-industrial artsy atmosphere that makes a nice
departure from the brooding, gloomy nostalgia of the
districts other offerings. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri,
Sat 10:00 - 02:00. AUBXW
Mleczarnia D-6, ul. Meiselsa 20, tel. (+48) 12 421
85 32, www.mle.pl. The most glorious beer graden in
Krakw, and right next to the site of several scenes in
Spielbergs Schindlers List. If that parade gets rained
on, take solace in the cross street interior with an Old
World atmosphere of candlelight, rickety furniture, murky
portraits, wooden floors and wide-open, floor to ceiling
street-side windows (not to mention the enchanting bathroom). A great place for a romantic evening conversation
or afternoon coffee with a book, this is what the whole of
Kazimierz was once about: taking things as they come.
Recommended. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 04:00. AUGW
Moment Resto Bar & Music E-6, ul. Jzefa 26,
tel. (+48) 668 03 40 00, www.momentcafe.pl. From
locals to tourists, laptoppers to hipsters, they take all kinds
in Moment and seem to know how to please them all. The
interior has recently swapped high, sturdy tables for low,
loungy sofas with splashy fabrics, and though its not really
an improvement (in fact it now just looks like an extension
of Nova next door), the menu is better than ever with bargain
breakfasts, Italian appetisers, wraps, salads and a range of
larger entrees. Plenty of Plac Nowy seating and evening drink
specials are yet more reasons why Moment has become a
popular place to lose track of time, not to mention the clutch
of inaccurate vintage clocks lining the walls, giving you a
handy excuse for missing your next day rendezvous with last
nights club conquest. Though this would be an ideal place
for it. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00. PAGW
103
Mostowa Art Cafe E-7, ul. Mostowa 8, tel. (+48) 519

75 40 55. Notice from a distance all the sidewalk tables flush
with young people in what was once the nether regions of
Kazimierz and youll think youve just discovered the hippest
place in town. Upon closer examination, however, theres
really nothing that remarkable about Mostowa Artcafe: a
small interior with a few ordinary tables, white walls, and the
unimpressive art canvases of the month. And yet, combined
with Po Drodze - its equally unassuming neighbour next door
- this has indeed become the current place to be, passing
time drinking delicious microbrews (we recommend the dark
Magnus beer) out of a tiny fridge at a nondescript gallery/cafe/
bar on a quiet street between Plac Wolnica and the pedestrian
bridge to Podgrze. If you dont know, now you know, hipster.
QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00. AUGW
Omerta D-6, ul. Warszauera 3 (entrance from ul. Kupa),

tel. (+48) 501 50 82 27, www.omerta.com.pl. Easy to
overlook thanks to a tired mafia theme replete with pics and
quotes from The Godfather, Omerta makes up for the lack
of originality with the best beer list in town. A lesson in local
beermanship, almost all of the 50+ ales are Polish and the
menu breaks them into categories, even ranking them for you;
discover the joy of miodowe (honey beer) among others. Welltempered locals create an ace atmosphere and repeat visits
are inevitable and encouraged. QOpen 16:00 - 24:00. UG
Propaganda E-6, ul. Miodowa 20, tel. (+48) 600
33 19 22. The interior is a dingy museum of curbside
communist scrap, from propaganda posters and slashed
portraits of Lenin to clunky cameras and chunky radios. As
rough around the edges as its clientele, theres no lack of
menace to the mainstays at the bar and you should probably
put your galoshes on before entering the toilets. The Polish
punk, ska and metal on airplay represents the taste of the
sturdy, tattooed barstaff who wont hesitate to throw you
across the room if provoked, yet we cant help but love this
completely unpredictable hole-in-the-head dive bar. QOpen
12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. AXW
NEW
Semper Felix D-6, ul. Boego Ciaa 9, tel. (+48) 513

06 79 96. Hard to say what the spirit of this place is without turning up in the middle of the night, but by 22:30 on a
weeknight, Semper Felix had already gathered a few barflies,
lured by the open disregard of the non-smoking policy and the
friendly barmaid matching them drink for drink. The interior is
small and confused, combining bad impressionist canvases
with large concert photos of Tom Waits, in what is essentially
a dive bar notable for little other than its cheap drinks and lack
of closing time. Presumably a place (read: not the place) to go
when everywhere else in Kaz has thrown you out and youre too
gone to go home, that criteria is harder to meet than you think
and this isnt much of a reward. Q Open 24hrs. PEGW
Singer D-6, ul. Izaaka 1, tel. (+48) 12 292 06 22. One

of the first bars in Kazimierz, Singer set the table for all that
was to come essentially inventing the evocative aesthetic
of cracked mirrors, dusky paintings, rickety antiques and
candlelight associated with the district today. Despite its
long tenure, lofty reputation and occassional intrusion of
tourists, today Singer still holds all the magic it did when
it first opened. A charismatic, even chimerical cafe by day,
Singer hits its stride around 3 am when tabletops turn into
dancefloors, the regulars abandon their drinks to dip and
spin each other to an energetic mix of gypsy, klezmer and
other ethnic music, the entire bar begins to feel like a ferris
wheel ready to fly off its axis and the boundaries of time are
obliterated. Yeah, weve had a few good ones here. QOpen
09:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 06:00. PAUXW
104
HISTORY
Krakw Historical Timeline
966:
990:
1000:
1038:
1241:
1257:
1320:
1335:
1364:
1386:
1596:
1655:
1683:
1734:
1791:
1794:
1796:
1918:
1939:
1941:
1942:
1943:
1945:
1947:
1978:
1981:
1983:
1989:
1999:
2002:
2004:
2005:
2007:
2010:
First written record of the city

Incorporated into the Piast dynasty
Krakw bishopric established
Krakw becomes the capital of Poland
The beginning of 50 years of Mongol mayhem
Krakw granted municipal rights
Coronation of King Wadysaw the Short in Wawel
Cathedral, the first royal coronation in Krakw
Kazimierz is founded on the eastern bank of the
Wisa River
Jagiellonian University founded
Krakw wedding of Polish Queen Jadwiga and
Lithuanian grand duke Jagiello creates the
Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth
Polish capital moved to Warsaw
Swedish army captures and devastates the city
King Jan III Sobieski leads his Polish army from
Krakw to Vienna, defeating the Turks and saving Christian Europe
Coronation of King August III, the final coronation
in Wawel Cathedral
The May 3rd Constitution is passed; the First
Partition of Poland follows
Prussian army captures Krakw after the
Kociuzko Uprising; citys regalia stolen and lost
forever
Krakw becomes part of Austrian Galicia after
the Third Partition of Poland
Poland returns to the map of Europe
Nazi occupation begins
The Jewish Ghetto is established in the Podgrze
district
Establishment of the Paszw concentration
camp in Podgrze
Liquidation of the Krakw Ghetto
Krakw liberated by the Soviet Army
Construction begins on Nowa Huta
Krakws Old Town, Wawel and Kazimierz added
to the UNESCO World Heritage List; Karol Wojtya
inaugurated as Pope John Paul II
Martial law declared in Poland
Martial law lifted; Lech Wasa wins the Nobel
Peace Prize
Party-free elections in Poland; Communist
regime crumbles
Poland joins NATO
2.5 million people gather on the Bonia to participate in a mass by Pope John Paul II
Poland joins the European Union
Pope John Paul II passes away plunging PL into
national mourning
Krakw celebrates the 750 anniversary of
obtaining city rights and reaches its zenith as a
tourist destination
President Lech Kaczyski and 95 other Polish
delegates die in a plane crash near Smolensk
Russia; Kaczyski and his wife Maria are controversially buried in the Royal Crypt at Wawel
HISTORY
One of oldest cities in Poland, archaeological evidence proves that there
were settlements in the Krakw area
as early as the Palaeolithic period, with
stone tools found on Wawel Hill dating
back - way, way back - to 50,000BC.
Legend attributes the citys founding
to Krakus, the mythical ruler who
vanquished the Wawel Dragon. The
mysterious earthwork Mounds named
after Krakus and his daughter Wanda,
located in the Podgrze and Nowa
Huta districts respectively, were
probably built in the 7th century. However, historians date the
settlement of Krakws Old Town slightly later in the 8th century,
when it was the capital of a tribe of pagan Slavs known as the
Vistulans. By 966, the date of the first written record of the
citys name, Krakw had already grown into a busy commercial
centre, thanks in part to the amber trade.
In the late 9th century the region was ruled by the Moravians,
passing shortly thereafter to Bohemian rule before being
incorporated into the principality of the Piast dynasty in the
990s, thus creating the Kingdom of Poland. The city developed rapidly, acquiring its own bishopric in 1000, and in 1038
Krakw became the capital of Poland, with Wawel Royal Castle
becoming the residence of Polish kings. The 13th century was
marked by incessant Mongol invasions, the first occurring in
1241 when the city was almost entirely destroyed, but it was
dutifully rebuilt in time to be ravaged again in 1259 and 1287.
Following this last embarrassment, the city was surrounded
by 3 kilometres of defensive walls, towers and gates which
would be modernised over the next few centuries.
The Hejna
Rynek Gwny and the Cloth Hall, 1870

Thanks to Napoleon, the city flirted with various forms
of semi-independence from 1809 to 1846 before being
absorbed back into Austria. Under Austrian occupation
Krakws fortified city walls were levelled - with the notable
exceptions of the section around the Floriaska Gate and
the Barbican - and the Planty park was created where they
once stood. Austrian rule was more lenient than that imposed
in the Russian and Prussian-ruled partitions and as a result
Krakw became a centre of Polish nationalism, culture and
art during the pre-war fin de siecle era. The city was also
modernised during this time with running water, electricity
and the first electric streetcars (1901) all being installed
ahead of Warsaw in the first decade of the 20th century.
Krakw particularly flourished under the rule of Kazimierz

the Great (1333-1370), who expanded Wawel Castle and
established two new cities - Kleparz and Kazimierz - which
were closely connected with and would later be incorporated
into Krakw. A huge patron of the arts and sciences, in 1364
he founded the Krakw Academy, now known as Jagiellonian
University - one of the oldest institutions of higher learning in
Europe. Prosperity continued during the joint Polish-Lithuanian
Jagiello dynasty (1386-1572) as Krakw experienced its
golden age. Talented artists, humanists and scientists arrived
from Renaissance Italy and Germany to create impressive new
buildings, sculptures, frescos and other artworks and Wawel
Castle was turned into a pearl of Renaissance architecture.
However, after several centuries of roaring times the citys
fortunes began to turn with the death of King Zygmunt II in
1572, who left no heir. With the throne passing to the Swedish House of Vasa, Krakws importance began to decline,
resulting in Sigismund IIIs decision to move the Polish capital
to Warsaw in 1596; however Krakw maintained its role as
the official site of royal coronations and burials.
When the First World War broke out, Krakw was besieged
by Russian troops forcing many residents to flee the city.
Krakw became the first Polish city liberated from Austrian
rule on October 31st, 1918 when a planned revolt against
the Austrian garrison in Podgrze freed the city in advance
of the wars end. The Treaty of Versailles would establish the
first sovereign Polish state in over a century, however twenty
years later in September 1939, Nazi German forces entered
Krakw, setting up command of their General Government
(the Nazi term for the occupied Polish lands slated to be purified
and incorporated in to the Rhineland) in Wawel Castle. Over
150 professors from Jagiellonian University were rounded
up and shipped to concentration camps in what is known as
Sonderaktion Krakau. The Jewish population was ejected
from Kazimierz into a ghetto in the Podgrze district, with
the Liban and Paszw work and concentration camps close
by. The Jewish ghetto, whose population fluctuated between
15,000 and 18,000, was liquidated in 1943 with its occupants
shot where they stood, sent to work in Paszw or sent to
their deaths in nearby Auschwitz. Krakw was liberated on
January 18th 1945, with the fabric of the city miraculously
coming through the Soviet offensive almost completely intact.
The 17th century was marked by the pillaging of the Swedish

Invasion (1655) and a bout with the Black Death that claimed
20,000 residents. In the late 18th century, Poland passed
the worlds second democratic constitution (after the US)
on May 3, 1791, however only days later the countrys more
militarised and expansionist-minded neighbours Russia,
Prussia and Austria invaded and imposed the First Partition of
Poland (1772-73) on the weakened country; a second partition
transpired twenty years later. Krakw developed a reputation as a bastion of rebellion against foreign invaders and in
1794, Polish freedom-fighter Tadeusz Kociuszko initiated his
famous Insurrection on Krakws market square; it eventually
failed and the Prussians soon stepped into the city to loot the
entire royal treasury. Poland was partitioned a third time (1795)
and Krakw became part of the Austrian province of Galicia.
Following WWII, the dubious process of Sovietisation began,

and the district of Nowa Huta was built around the countrys
largest steel mill in the late 1940s in an attempt to weaken
Krakws intellectual and artistic heritage through industrialisation. Almost forty-five years of communism followed,
including a year and a half of martial law, before the Solidarity
independent trade union gathered enough momentum to
force free elections in 1989 in which Lech Wasa became the
first post-communist president of Poland. In 1978 Krakws
Old Town and Kazimierz districts were placed on the first
UNESCO World Heritage List and in the same year Krakws
archbishop Karol Wojtya became the first non-Italian pope
in 455 years. Because of its preservation, today Krakw
is arguably Polands most important historical and cultural
artefact. In 2010 the city was visited by over 8 million people.
One of the most fascinating traditions for

tourists and Krakowians is the hejna (pronounced haynow) a
short, melodious bugle
call played every hour
from th e east, west,
north and south sides
of St. Mary Basilicas
left tower (C-3). Ergo
th e most fascinating
and enviable pro fession carried out 54m
above the city has to be
that of the trumpeter
who plays it.
Micha Koton has been responsible for the tradition since 2006 when he took over the role from
his father, Jan Ko ton, Senior Fire Marshall for
the Krakw Fire Brigade. Jan himsel f had been
climbing th e 239 steps o f S t. Mar ys tower to
carr y out the tradition since 1971, keeping the
hejna in the family after his own fathers 35 -year
stint. But the job is more than a source of pride
and family heritage. The seven firemen chosen to
play are on call for a 24-hour rotation then of f for
48 hours. While on call, they must be aler t ever y
hour to ring the church bell and play precisely on
the hour. The seven trumpeters carr y out their
duty with great discipline, as such a long-lasting
tradition cannot be neglected. And what a tradition
it is. The most commonly read legend tracing the
hejna is that one morning in 1241 the Tar tars
invaded Krakw (as they always do). The warning
song was blared to arouse the slumbering city
to arms. The man playing was shot in the neck,
thus abruptly cutting of f the song in mid-melody.
To this day, the tune cuts of f in mid-recapitulation
symbolizing Krakws vigilance as well as commemorating the lone night guard who aroused the
city to defence, thereby saving it. However, Polish
journalist Leszek Mazan wrote in Polityka magazine that he believes American journalist John M.
Kelly fabricated the legend in 1929. While little
to no documentation regarding the origins of the
song has been found, Mr. Koton and the other
players are cer tain the songs stor y far precedes
John Kellys writing as a fire warning for the city.
The melody came from Hungar y and was appropriately used as a warning for fires or invasions
as the word hejna in Hungarian means wake up.
Prior to the 15th centur y when the tower on St.
Mar ys was completed, this warning was sounded
from the city walls, which is most likely where the
legendar y trumpeter was shot and killed. While
the historical bir th and development of Krakws
trademark remains a myster y, any visitor or Krakowian will surely attest that the hejnas living
tradition de fines and shapes Krakw. In addition
to pleasing visitors able to witness the bugle call
live from the church tower every hour, the tune can
also be heard all over Poland when it is broadcast
live ever y day at noon on Trjka Radio, number
99,3 on the radio dial in Maopolska.
105
106
SIGHTSEEING
OLD TOWN
glass. Its from atop the taller of the two cathedral towers
that a bugler plays an abbreviated tune every hour on the
hour dont miss it. On the other side of the square youll
find the Town Hall Tower, with a viewing platform at the
top (open in season) and a theatre and bar in the former
basement prison.
What To See
Krakws centre can be divided into two main sections - the
Old Town and Kazimierz (the former Jewish Quarter), with
Wawel towering between them. These three areas are requisite
for anyone visiting the city - even if just for a day - and have
been given their own separate treatment with accompanying
cultural listings within this guide. Though one could spend their
life wandering in and out of the cobbled streets, courtyards,
cafes, clubs and museums of the Old Town and Kazimierz (weve
attempted to make a life out of it), if you get the opportunity,
dont hesitate to take a trip across the river into Podgrze. Just
beyond Kazimierz, Podgrze is the citys most naturally beautiful
and mysterious district; the Jewish heritage trail also naturally
leads here where the worst horror of Krakws Nazi occupation
played out and Schindler made a name for himself.
Within these pages youll also find a section devoted to Nowa
Huta, one of only two planned socialist realist cities ever built.
Designed to be the antithesis of everything Krakws Old Town
represents, both culturally and aesthetically, the massive steelworks and other commie comforts of Nowa Huta are only a tram
ride away. Those staying in the area for a week or more should
strongly consider daytrips to Wieliczka, Auschwitz-Birkenau
and Tarnw, information about all of which youll find here by
reading on. However long your stay, the meticulously updated
information in this guide will help you make the most of it. Enjoy
exploring Krakw and Maopolska.
Tourist Information
City Tourist Information C-3, Rynek Gwny 1/3
St. Marys Basilica
Krakw has always been, in many respects, a charmed city.
With a history that dates back to the 4th century settlement
of Wawel Hill, Krakw has fortuitously avoided destruction
since the pesky Mongels stopped bullying the area in the
13th century, growing into one of the most prominent cities
in Central Europe. The most important city in Poland not
to come out of World War II looking like a trampled Lego
set, even the Soviets failed to leave their mark on the enchanted city centre during 45 years of supervision, forced
to erect their gray communist Utopia in the outlying suburb
of Nowa Huta. As a result, Krakw is today one of the most
beautiful showpieces of Eastern Europe - a claim validated
by its historic centres inclusion on the first ever UNESCO
World Heritage List in 1978, along with the nearby Wieliczka
Salt Mine and only ten other places in the world. A city of
majestic architectural monuments, cobbled thoroughfares,
cultural treasures, timeless courtyards, priceless artworks
and legendary beer cellars and gardens, Krakws historic
centre is the pride of Poland.
(Cloth Hall), tel. (+48) 12 433 73 10, www.infokrakow.pl. The official city tourist office. Also at ul. w. Jana
2 (C-3, Open 10:00-18:00), ul. Szpitalna 25 (D-2, Open
09:00-17:00), ul. Powile 11 (B-5, Open 09:00-17:00)
and Pl. Wszystkich witych 2 (C-4, Wyspiaski Pavilion,
Open 09:00-17:00). QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.
Cracow City Tours D-1, Pl. Matejki 2, tel. (+48)
12 421 13 33, www.cracowcitytours.pl. Also at ul.
Floriaska 44 (D-2, 12 421 13 27, Open 09:00-20:30) .
QOpen 08:30 - 19:15. Y
DiscoverCracow.eu C-3, Rynek Gwny 30, tel.
(+48) 12 346 38 99, www.discovercracow.eu. Also
at Pl. Mariacki 5 (C-3, Open 11:30 - 17:30), ul. Grodzka
28-30 (C-4, Open 09:00 - 19:00), and ul. Floriaska 28
(C-2, Open 09:00-19:00). This company offer tours of
Krakow and the surrounding areas including AuschwitzBirkenau, Zakopane and Wieliczka for individuals and
groups. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00.
Krakw History Museum Visitor Services
Centre (Centrum Obsugi Zwiedzajcych) C-3,

Rynek Gwny 1/3, tel. (+48) 12 426 50 60, www.
mhk.pl. Tourist info and gift shop for all 15 branches
of the Krakw History Museum. Tickets to the Rynek
Underground museum can currently be purchased here,
with Schindlers Factory tickets also becoming available
during the next two months.QOpen 10:00 - 19:00.
Maopolska Tourist Information C - 4, ul.
Grodzka 31/7, tel. (+48) 12 421 77 06, www.mcit.
pl. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.
Tourist Service Center (Centrum Obsugi
Ruchu Turystycznego) B-5, ul. Powile 11, tel.
Wawel Castle
(+48) 513 09 96 88, www.infokrakow.pl. Cunningly

hidden underground at the base of Wawel Hill, this new
facility contains info about the city, Wawel, the region
in general plus everything visitors need to know about
events. Theres also a gift shop and a snack bar. QOpen
09:00 - 17:00.
107
Rynek Gwny
PKO
Any exploration of Krakws Old Town should start with

the Royal Route - the historical coronation path of Polish
kings when Krakw served as the royal capital from the
14th century to the very end of the 16th century. Most of
the Old Towns prime sights (more information on which
can be found in these pages with help from the index) lay
along this route from the Floriaska Gate to Wawel Castle.
For many of less noble lineage, however, the route begins
at Krakws train station (E-1), a walk from which to the
main market square is among the most regal and aweinspiring introductions to any city in Europe. Following the
human traffic from the station through the ul. Basztowa
underpass will plant you in the green space that encircles
the Old Town known as the Planty (D-2). Ideal for a fair
weather stroll, the Planty was once a series of medieval
fortifications surrounded by a moat. After Polands Third
Partition in the late 18th century, the order came down
from Austrian Emperor Franz Joseph I to dismantle these
neglected structures, however thanks to local effort
the northern parts of the wall were spared, including
the magnificent Barbican and Floriaska Gate. Walking
the two blocks towards the Barbican, take note of the
Sowacki Theatre (D-2) to the left on ul. Szpitalna. A
marvellous Baroque masterpiece from 1893, while its a
bit difficult to infiltrate during the day, buying an affordable
ticket to the theatre is highly recommended. On ahead,
the circular fortress of the Barbican (D-2)was added to
the citys defences in the late 15th century while, directly
across from it, the Floriaska Gate(D-2) that officially
began the Royal Route dates back to 1307. Pass through
it and youre on one of Krakws main commercial streets.
Behind the Golden Arches, kebab and souvenir signs dont
fail to notice the architectural detail of the facades. On this
street youll find the Jan Matejko House and Museum, as
well as the underappreciated Pharmacy Museum (C-2).
Arriving upon Krakws main market square or Rynek
(C-3), you are now standing in the heart of Poland with your
finger on its pulse. Historically, culturally and spiritually the
Rynek and Wawel may be the two most important sights in
the country (sorry Warsaw). The largest medieval market
square in Central Europe, Krakws Rynek is 200 metres
square and functions as the citys social gravitation
point. Lined with cafes and restaurants, filled with people,
pigeons, street performers, musicians and horse-drawn
carriages, this is a place of festivals, concerts, parades
and other events. At its centre lies the impressive Cloth
Hall or Sukiennice a neo-Gothic structure which
has served as a market for merchants since the Middle
Ages, and whose history you can now learn in the Rynek
Underground museum housed beneath it. Directly before
you as youre leaving Floriaska is St. Marys Basilicaor
Mariacki Cathedral one of the most dazzling cathedrals in
the country famed for its incredible altarpiece and stained
Leaving the Rynek follow the kings down ul. Grodzka to

pl. Wszystkich witych (C-4). To the right is St. Francis
Basilica(B/C-4) with an Art Nouveau interior by Stanisaw
Wyspiaski that should not be missed, while directly
before you are three more incredible stained glass
windows by Krakws favourite son in a specially-made
modern building. Ulica Grodzka leads you past SSPeter
& Pauls Church (C-4)with its striking sculptures of the
12 disciples posed before it. Cut across the small square
to your right and youll find yourself on one of Krakws
most handsome streets, ul. Kanonicza. The late Pope
John Paul IIs former residence is at numbers 19-21, which
now house the Archdiocesan Museum (C-5). Kanonicza
lets out directly at the foot of Wawel Castle (B/C-5), the
citys defining landmark. A source of great pride, patriotic
and spiritual strength, Wawel is worth spending half a day
exploring, as well as the Wisa riverbanks below.
Other Old Town highlights include the famous Czartoryski
Museum (D-2) lucky enough to claim one of only a
handful of Da Vinci paintings on display in the world
within its collection, but unluckily for you its currently
closed for renovation. Instead give some time to the
fabulous 20th century art collection on the top floor
of the National Museum (H-3).The Old Town is also
home to the second oldest university in Central Europe.
Jagielloian Universitys Collegium Maius(B-3) is the
schools oldest building and was the studying place of
Copernicus. Take an hour out to see the incredible library
and lecture hall, as well as the oldest surviving globe
in the world to depict the Americas. Anyone looking to
do some bizarre bargain hunting should head to one of
Krakws catch-all marketplaces, with Stary Kleparz
(C/D-1)and Hala Targowa (E-4) especially during the
latters Sunday morning flea market - being bona fide
cultural experiences in their own right (see Shopping for
more). Finally, if youre looking for a leisure activity on a
lovely day, the ascent to the top of Kociuszko Mound
(F-3, see Leisure)is well-rewarded with fantastic views
of the entire Old Town.
Peter & Pauls Cathedral soylentgreen23, pl.wikipedia.org
108
WHAT TO SEE
Guided Tours
AB City Tours ul. Kociuszki 49, tel. (+48) 12 427
27 57, www.abcitytour.pl. Their large fleet of electronic golf-carts zips tired-footed tourists around all the sights
in town, while informational audio recordings explain
Krakws history in English, Polish, Spanish, German,
French, Italian, Norwegian, Hungarian, Japanese, Dutch,
Russian and Portuguese. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Y
Cool Tour Company C-3, ul. Grodzka 2, tel. (+48)
12 430 20 34, www.cooltourcompany.com. Major
sights, history and a lot of fun included in an entertaining
walk with professional guides. Meet at St. Adalberts (the
tiny church on Rynek Gwny) at 10:00 and 14:00. During
the warm season bike tours are also available, leaving from
their ul. Grodzka 2 office everyday at 13:00. Bike rental is
available anytime you want for the following rates: 10z/hr,
40z/5hrs, 50z/day, 60z/24hrs. QOpen 10:00 - 15:00.
Cracow City Tours D-1, Pl. Matejki 2, tel. (+48) 12
421 13 33, www.cracowcitytours.com. The best value
trip to Auschwitz on offer. Also at ul. Floriaska 44 (D-2, 12
421 13 27, Open 09:00-20:30). QOpen 08:30 - 19:15. Y
Cracow Tours B-2, ul. Krupnicza 3, tel. (+48) 12

430 07 26, www.cracowtours.pl. Variety of tour packages including city centre tours, Auschwitz, the salt mines
and Zakopane. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Crazy Guides C-2, ul. Floriaska 38, tel. (+48) 500 09

12 00, www.crazyguides.com. Specialising in communist
themed tours of Nowa Huta and the Sendzimir Steelworks.
Experience Stalins gift to Krakow - one of the worlds only
centrally planned cities - in a genuine Eastern Bloc Trabant
601 automobile. Q Communism Tour 129z per person.
DiscoverCracow.eu C-3, Rynek Gwny 30, tel.

(+48) 12 346 38 99, www.discovercracow.eu.
Explore Krakw with a DIY audio guide about the history and legends of 87 points in the city. Pick it up at
one of their tourist points: ul. Grodzka 28-30 (C-4), ul.
Floriaska 28 (C-2) or Rynek Gwny 30 (C-3). A separate
guide specifically for St. Marys Basilica can be picked at
Pl. Mariacki 5 (C-3, open 11:30 - 17:30). Guided tours in
and around the Krakw area with real people are also
available. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00.
Horse-drawn Carriage Rides C-3, , tel. (+48) 605 22
73 86. One of the most popular and romantic ways to view
the Old Town, antique carriages can be hired on the market
square rain or shine. Routes and prices are individually
determined but rides generally cost 250z/hr, 175z/30min.
Marco der Pole C- 4, ul. Kanonicza 15, tel.

(+48) 12 430 21 17, www.krakow-travel.com. A
well-seasoned travel outfit, Marco der Pole organises
daily walking tours, regional daytrips and tailor-made
programs for adult and school groups. QOpen 09:00
- 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
The Tourist Guide Association (Stowarzyszenie Przewodnikw Turystycznych - Krakw)
tel. (+48) 725 72 52 00, www.guide-cracow.pl.
These well-connected linguists can help you find and
book tours of Krakw in English, Czech, French, Spanish,
Portuguese, Italian, Dutch, Swedish, German, Polish,
Russian, Slovak and Serbo-Croatian.
WHAT TO SEE
St. Francis Basilica (Bazylika w. Franciszka)
Churches
Theres hardly a resident of
Krakw who doesnt have a
church for a neighbour. While
the number of churches, cathedrals and monasteries in
the city is almost endless,
weve used a bit of discrimination in only listing the most
remarkable and unavoidable
of the bunch here. All of these
St. Bernards Church places of worship are still
Jakub Haun active to varying degrees, so
please be respectful and try
not to visit during services.
Holy Trinity Basilica (Bazylika w. Trjcy) C-4, ul.

Stolarska 12, tel. (+48) 12 423 16 13, www.krakow.
dominikanie.pl. Built in 1250 by Dominican friars from
Bologna, the church lost many of its treasures when it was
gutted by fire back in 1850. Rebuilt in 1872 this huge structure is now an important evangelical centre. The image of
Our Lady of the Rosary, found inside the Rosary chapel, is
said to have healing powers. Q Open 09:30 - 11:40, 13:00
- 16:30, Sun 14:30 - 16:30.
SS Peter & Pauls Church (Koci w. Piotra

i Pawa) C-4, ul. Grodzka 52a, tel. (+48) 12 350 63
65, www.apostolowie.pl. Krakws premier Jesuit Church
was built in the early 1600s. The twelve disciples standing
on the gates outside are its most striking feature, although
the interior has been extensively renovated and the airy,
austere grandeur of this late Renaissance building is now
evident. Possessors of a 46.5m Foucault Pendulum - a
device invented by French physicist Leon Foucault in 1851
which proves the earths rotation, shows demonstrating its
use occur on Thursdays at 10:00, 11:00 and 12:00. QOpen
09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:30, Sun 13:30 - 17:30.
C-4, Pl. Wszystkich witych 5, tel. (+48) 12 422

53 76, www.franciszkanska.pl. Our favourite church in
Krakw thanks to the gorgeous interior Art Nouveau murals
by native son Stanisaw Wyspiaski, which nicely balance the
organic and geometric with unique florals patterns that make
this the most colourful place of worship in the city. Wyspiaski
also made the eight stained-glass windows around 1895,
including the controversial and iconic centerpiece, God the
Father in the Act of Creation. Dating back to the 13th century,
St. Francis Basilica was the first brick building in the city and
is well worth popping in, even for those who could care less
for looking at another church. Q Open 10:00-16:00, Sun
13:15-15:30. No visiting during mass please.
St. Marys Basilica (Bazylika Mariacka) C-3, Pl.

Mariacki 5, tel. (+48) 12 422 07 37, www.mariacki.
com. Tartar invasions of the 13th century left the original
church in a heap of ruins and construction began on St.
Marys using the existing foundations. It doesnt matter
how many times you see it, the altarpiece, stained glass
windows of the nave, and the blue, starred ceiling will take
your breath away. The magnificent altarpiece was for 12
painstaking years the principal work of the 15th century
German artist Veit Stoss (aka Wit Stwosz), and depicts the
Virgin Marys Quietus among the apostles. Surrounding the
altar are polychrome paintings by Matejko, Mehoffer and
Wyspiaski. Several local legends are attached to St. Marys.
The architect of the smaller tower murdered his brother (the
architect of the taller), apparently jealous that his structure
was shorter and less elaborate. Racked with guilt he then
committed suicide by throwing himself off the roof of the
cathedral. Nowadays the taller tower is home to one of
Krakws most enduring traditions. The bugle call played on
the turn of every hour apparently takes its origins from an
Floriaska Street
ul. Floriaska C-2. Marking the
edge of the Old Town is Floriaska
Gate. Completed in 1307 the gateway is one of the few surviving parts
of the ancient defences that once
circled the Old Town. Thirty-three
metres tall, and topped with a Baroque roof that was added in 1657,
the gate marks the main entrance
into the old city, and was the original
starting point for what was dubbed
the Royal Road. It was through this
gate that visiting kings, queens
and nobility would enter the city on
Floriaska Gate
their way to Wawel. A painstaking
special B
programme of renovation has left
the gate looking sparkling new, and the immediate environs
play home to dozens of open-air displays by aspiring local
artists. Once considered Krakws principal commerical
street Floriaska comes predictably steeped in history.
Aside from signs advertising kebabs, dance clubs and
currency exchange, many of the townhouses have facades
featuring age-old murals and inscriptions. Keep your eyes
peeled for House of the Negro (Floriaska 1) and House of
the Squirrel (no. 15). Also of note, the Jan Matejko House
(no. 41) and Pharmacy Museum (no. 25, see Museums
for both), and the hotel and restaurant Pod R (no. 14).
Reputed to be the oldest hotel in Krakw, the Latin inscription above Pod Ras Renaissance doorway reads May
this building stand until an ant drinks the ocean, and
a tortoise circles the earth.
St. Adalberts (Koci w. Wojciecha) C-3, Rynek

Gwny, tel. (+48) 12 422 83 52, www.kosciolwojciecha.pl. Krakws oldest church sits not unlike a lost orphan
at the southeast corner of the Cloth Hall, a mad mix of preRoman, Roman, Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque architecture, all crammed together in a higgledy-piggledy jumble of
religious styles. The earliest parts of the building date from at
least the 11th century, pre-dating the Rynek and explaining its
seemingly random position within it. St. Adalbert had his own
cult following at the time, which explains how it managed to
survive. A look inside is well worth it, not least because the floor
sits some two metres below the surface of the main square.
QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sun 13:30 - 17:00.
St. Bernards (Koci w. Bernardyna) C-5, ul.

Bernardyska 2, tel. (+48) 12 422 16 50, www.bernardyni.com.pl. With most eyes and cameras pointing towards
Wawel its easy to miss St. Bernards, a church and monastery
founded by St. John of Capistrano (1386-1456), a Franciscan
priest who made a name for himself by among other things
encouraging anti-Jewish pogroms. Constructed in the second
half of the 15th century, St. Bernards was meant as a refuge
for those wishing to atone for their sins and live in accordance
to the teachings of St. Francis of Assisi. Fearing it would be
commandeered as a strategic base by the invading Swedish
troops the Poles burnt the church to the ground in 1655, later
rebuilding it in its current baroque style. The church is currently
undergoing renovations and is open on a Sunday but you are
requested not to wander around with a camera during mass.
Q Open Sun 06:00-18:30. No visiting during mass please.
109
110
WHAT TO SEE
Rynek Underground
Rynek Underg r o u n d (P o d z i emia Rynku) C-3,
Rynek Gwny 1, tel.
(+4 8) 1 2 426 5 0
60, www.podziemiarynku.com. Opened
in a blaze of publicity
in September 2010,
richardschofieldphotography.com
this 38z million hi-tech
museum - the first of its kind in Poland - is subtitled In the
Footsteps of Krakws European Identity and is laid
out as a journey in time in which visitors can not only see
the past but feel it as well thanks to the inclusion of a
battalion of touch-sensitive screens. Approximately four
metres under the market squares surface and occupying
a space that was once a series of underground stalls
predating todays Cloth Hall, the 6,000-square metre museum follows the path of the citys history from the first
settlers in the region right up to the death of Pope John
Paul II on April 2, 2005 - a few months before the original
archaeological dig began. After negotiating the scrum
thats the combined ticket office and cloakroom, visitors
enter the main exhibition space via a film projected on a
wall of smoke and subsequently follow a clockwise trail
that takes in some truly remarkable exhibits placed in
their original surroundings.
Relying heavily on screens and holograms, permanent
exhibition highlights include displays of trade in the
city, transport and a fascinating look into life in Krakw
before it received its charter the very same year the
Main Market Square was laid out. The museum cleverly
combines modern technology with original artefacts,
among them the remains of an 11th-century cemetery
and an ancient horse skull.
Those used to more traditional museums will be
pleased to know theres still plenty of reality among
the virtual exhibits including the usual array of coins,
clothing and other earthly remains. In addition to
the touch-screens, which proved hugely popular
when we went round, are audio guides in English,
German, French, Russian, Italian and Spanish, and
a caf plus two shops selling food and souvenirs
respectively at the end of the circuit. Before you arrive there make a point of taking a look at the series
of short, subtitled documentaries covering different
ages of Krakows history which can be found in the
passage to the right before you head towards the
exit into the cafe area.
Expecting some 300,000 visitors annually, Rynek
Underground is limited to 300 people at a time and is
proving very popular with sometimes massive queues of
people being admitted in 30-minute intervals. To avoid
disappointment or waiting, tickets should be bought in
advance online and shown at the door. The entrance
is in the northeast corner of the Cloth Hall facing St.
Marys Basilica, however tickets for those without them
are bought from an information point on the opposite
side of the building. Q Open 10:00 - 20:00, Tue 10:00
- 16:00. Closed every first Tuesday of the month. Last
entrance 75 minutes before closing. Admission 17/14z,
audioguide 5z (ID must be left in order to take an audioguide). Mon free.
WHAT TO SEE
event in 1241. Having spotted invading Tartar forces on the
horizon, a lone fireman started playing his trumpet to alert the
habitants of Krakw. He was shot with an arrow in his neck,
abruptly cutting off the tune mid-melody, but the town was
roused from its sleep and defended itself. In honour of this
event, seven local firemen now have task of tooting the tune
every hour. The first written mention of the tradition dates
back to 1392, though a local magazine recently claimed the
whole custom was invented by an American in 1929. QOpen
11:30 - 18:00, Sun 14:00 - 18:00. Last entrance 15 minutes
before closing. Admission 6/3z.
Monuments
Adam Mickiewicz C-3, Rynek Gwny. One of the most
important statues in Poland, the large likeness of the romantic poet and national hero Adam Mickiewicz (1798-1855)
was originally unveiled in 1898 to celebrate the centenary
of the great mans birth, and, like so many other symbols
of national pride was destroyed by the occupying Germans
during WWII. The statue that stands in the Rynek today is
a 1955 copy of Teodor Rygiers original, and is a popular
and easily recognisable meeting place. Lithuanian-born
Mickiewicz (whos most famous work, Pan Tadeusz begins
with the words Lithuania, my country! and who is known
and loved by the Lithuanians as Adomas Mickeviius) never
visited Krakw until 35 years after his death. His body lies
at rest in the Cathedral crypts just down the road at Wawel.
Dok B-6, Bulwar Czerwieski. Dok (Jock) was by all

accounts a happy and no doubt philosophical little Polish
dog who was left tragically orphaned when his owner had a
heart attack in his car in 1990 on the citys busy Grunwald
Roundabout (Rondo Grunwaldzkie). Left behind when
his master was taken away in an ambulance, Dok waited
patiently for his friend to return for a year before finally going
to live with a lady who used to come and feed him. After the
lady died in 1998 poor Dok was taken to a local dog hostel
from where he escaped on his second day of captivity and
was swiftly run over by a train. In 2001 a sculpture of Dok
was unveiled at Bulwar Czerwieski close to where his original
master passed away. The work of local sculptor Bronisaw
Chromy (1925-), a collection box in the back is for helping
fellow orphaned animals.
Elvis Presley G-4, Al. Elvisa Presleya. One of Krakws

least known, hardest to find and most bizarre monuments,
this tribute to the King is a pilgrimage worth making. Though
located on an avenue named in his honour, its little more
than a footpath into the beguiling woods of Zakrzwek and the
picturesque quarry that lies beyond. A large standing stone
with Elvis face set in it and half-submerged in silicon, this
seemingly wacky act of randomness is an in-all-seriousness
tribute from the Krakw Elvis fan club. Recently the Kings hair
was spray-painted blue and he can usually be found in the
company of artificial flowers. The perfect occassion for an
outing, youll find Elvis by departing Al. Gen. Zieliskiego for
ul. Zielna, somewhere near where it meets ul. Pietrusiskiego
(G-4) on the map in the back of this guide; where the road
ends youll find the King.
Eros Bendato (Eros Bound) B-3, Rynek Gwny.

Among Krakws most well-known landmarks, this sculpture
in the western corner of the market square is a popular
meeting place and at some point serves as a photographic
backdrop for almost every tourist who visits the city. Affectionately referred to as The Head, the bronze body parts
official title is Eros Bendato (Eros Bound) and is the work
of Polish artist Igor Mitoraj. A student of Tadeusz Kantors
at the Krakw School of Art, an exhibition of 14 of Mitorajs
monumental works dressed the Rynek from Oct 17, 2003

to Jan 25, 2004, during which the artist gifted this work to
the city, sparking controversy over what to do with it. Initially,
the sculpture was designated for Plac Kolejowy (E-2), but
the artist was indignant about having his work in front of a
commercial building (Galeria Krakowska). Despite protest
from historians and many locals, the sculpture eventually
found its current place near the Town Hall Tower, where it
has become an unexpected tourist attraction. In summer,
children can be seen crawling all over the hollow edifice,
sticking their heads and limbs through the eyeholes for
camera-snapping parents, though winter too often finds
it profaned with trash and foul-smelling liquids. Fans of
Mitorajs work will find another of his large sculptures - titled
Luci di Nara - adorning the charming courtyard of Collegium
Luridicum (C-4, ul. Grodzka 53).
Grunwald Monument (Pomnik Grunwaldu) D-1, Pl.

Matejki. The Battle of Grunwald, fought between the joint
armies of Poland and Lithuania against the Teutonic Knights
on July 15, 1410, is considered to be one of the greatest
battles ever to take place in medieval Europe. A defining
moment in Polish history, the battle was immortalised in
Krakw with the unveiling of this weighty monument in front
of an estimated 160,000 people on the 500th anniversary
of the event in 1910. Antoni Wiwulskis (1877-1919) original
masterpiece was, not surprisingly, destroyed by the occupying Nazis during WWII and the copy that now stands in its
place dates from 1976, having been faithfully reproduced
using sketches and models of the original. At the top on his
horse is the Lithuanian king of Poland Wadysaw Jagieo, his
sword pointing downwards in his right hand. At the front is his
cousin the Lithuanian prince Vytautas (Vitold), who is flanked
on either side by victorious soldiers from the joint army. The
dead man at the front is Urlich von Jungingen, the Teutonic
Orders Grand Master, who lost his life during the battle.
Museums
Krakw is host to a plethora of museums. Opening hours
and exhibitions that are continually closing for restoration
can strike visitors as willfully eccentric, until one stops
to consider how much patience and care - and how little
capital - is invested to maintain such high standards. It is
for this reason that philanthropic visitors may even see fit
to throw an extra zoty into the collection box. Alternatively,
cheapskates and paupers should note that all branches of
the National Museum are free on Sundays. The museums
listed here are in the Old Town, while Kazimierz and Podgrze
museums are listed in their respective sections of the guide.
19th Century Polish Art Gallery C-3, Cloth Hall,

Rynek Gwny 1-3, tel. (+48) 12 424 46 03, www.
muzeum.krakow.pl. Open again after a lengthy closure,
the magnificent 19th Century Polish Art Gallery is better than
ever. Comprising four separate spaces above the Cloth Hall,
the works on display cover painting in Poland throughout
most of that century and beyond. Of particular interest
for their status as national treasures are the Italian-born,
Polish-resident Marceli Bacciarellis Portrait of Stanisaw
August Poniatowski in Coronation Dress from around 1790
and, a century on, Wadysaw Podkowiskis famous Frenzy
from 1894. Other painters of note on display whose works
shouldnt be missed include Jan Matejko, Jacek Malczewski,
Jzef Chemoski and Stanisaw Witkiewicz. One of the perks
of a visit is access to the magnificent balcony overlooking the
market square. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.
Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 12/6z, family ticket 24z, audioguide 5z. Sun free
for permanent exhibitions.
Stained Glass in Krakw

Stained glass enthusiasts
will have an absolute field
day in Krakw, which has
many fine examples of the
craft arguably some of
the best in Europe thanks
to a proliferation of ancient
churches and being the
home city of resident geniuses Stanisaw Wyspiaski
and Jzef Mehoffer. Though
there are many fantastic
examples of intricate medieval window art throughout
the city particularly in
Wawel Cathedral and St.
Marys Basilica the form
really reached its pinnacle
at the turn of the century
during Krakws Art NouWyspiaskis God the
veau heyday (Moda Polska)
Creator
during which time Mehoffer
Lestath
and Wyspiaski were at
the height of their creative
powers. After working together under the supervision of
Polish master Jan Matejko to restore the stained glass
windows of St. Marys Basilica (C-3, Pl. Mariacki 5) on
Krakws market square in 1899, both Mehoffer and
Wyspiaski turned their energy to stained glass with
Wyspiaski shortly thereafter producing perhaps his
most defining work the intricate interior wall paintings
of St. Francis Basilica (C-4, Pl. Wszystkich witych 5)
and the imposing, almost violently energetic stained glass
window entitled God in the Act of Creation (pictured) over
its entrance. Argued by some to be the greatest modern
stained glass window in the world, it is certainly a mustsee for all visitors. Followed by a commission to design
a triptych of windows for Wawel Cathedral, Wyspiaskis
incredible portrayals of St. Stanisaw, Kazimierz the Great
and Henryk Pobony were deemed too grotesque and
controversial to install, only recently finding a home over
100 years later in the purpose-built Wyspiaski Pavilion
(C-4, Pl. Wszystkich witich 2). Almost unknown even to
locals, Wyspiaski designed one other large-scale stained
glass masterpiece in Krakw before his premature death
in 1907 at age 38 and the height of his genius. One of
the citys best kept secrets, Apollo: the Copernican Solar
System lies hidden in the Medical Society House at ul.
Radziwiowska 4 (E-3) unseen from the outside on this
obscure street near the train station. Though the building
is not open to the public, name-dropping the artist should
be enough for the guard to let you in to have a brief look
at the majestic window at the top of the stairs.
The bulk of Mehoffers creative output meanwhile was
commissioned outside of Krakw, however enthusiasts
will want to visit his mansion at ul. Krupnicza 26 (A-2)
which has been beautifully preserved as a portal back in
time 100 years. In the Jzef Mehoffer House museum
visitors will see dozens of his sketches, designs and
finished stained glass pieces throughout the rooms of
his family home. Likewise, the Wyspiaski Museum
(B-2, ul. Szczepaska 11) displays evidence of the
monumental output of Krakws most celebrated son,
including the original pastels of his window designs. For
more see Museums.
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WHAT TO SEE
The Cloth Hall
Cloth Hall (Sukien nice) C-3, Rynek Gwny
1/3. There is proof that a
structure of some sort has
existed on this very spot
since the mid 13th century. The original structures
would probably have been
Courtesy of Staypoland
two rows of stone trading
stalls forming a street between them right in the middle of
the square. Around 1300 a roof would have been placed
over these stalls with this basic structure surviving until
the mid-14th century when Polish king Casimir the Great
allowed construction of a hall for trading as part of his
policy of improving and enriching his kingdom. Krakw
became an important trading post between the east
and west and although the name Cloth Hall comes from
the trading of textiles that went on, this area saw many
commodities bought and sold such as wax, spices,
leather, silk and more local goods like lead and salt from
the nearby Wieliczka mines.
A fire destroyed the building in the mid-16th century and
the new structure underwent a Renaissance facelift overseen by Jan Maria Padovano (1493-1574) featuring brilliantly deformed gargoyles by the Italian-Polish sculptor
Santi Gucci on the faade. At this time the Cloth Hall was
probably the most magnificent building in all of Krakw.
By the mid-1870s Poland had been partitioned for nearly
a century and the Cloth Hall was in pretty decrepit state.
According to maps of the day, Krakw was part of AustroHungarian controlled Galicia at this time and during
the period of 1875-79 many of the outbuildings were
torn down and the neo-Gothic colonnades and outside
arcades were added by Tomasz Pryliski, a student of
Jan Matejko. The interior was converted into a series
of wooden stalls and on October 7th, 1879 the Krakw
City Council voted to give half of the upper floor of the
Cloth Hall over to the creation of the first Polish National
Museum. It quickly became the focal point for a huge
celebration of Polish patriotism attracting Poles from
all three partitions as well as those from self-imposed
exiles abroad.
The 20th century saw ongoing development of the building with the most significant work being carried out in
the late 1950s when much of the 19th century interior
was replaced. By the start of the 21st century, however,
the building, particularly the display areas inside, was
in poor condition and unprepared for the demands of a
21st century museum or shopping area.
Started in August 2006 and lasting over 4 years, the
building was given a complete re-modelling with lifts,
air-conditioning and new natural and artificial lighting
installed. Where once were sloped attics, you will now
find lovely terraces overlooking the square below and
St. Marys Basilica opposite. To take advantage of them
and the adjacent Cafe Sza (see Cafes) visit the 19th
Century Polish Art Gallery (see Museums, and keep in
mind you dont need to pay admission to visit the cafe).
Having visited the Gallery or the Rynek Underground
museum take a break by visiting the Noworolski Cafe
for coffee (see Cafes) and round it off by picking up a
souvenir in the arcade within the Cloth Hall. Youll find
all sorts of handicrafts, amber and other jewellery
at surprisingly reasonable prices. And youll have the
experience of shopping in what is basically a 700-year
old shopping mall.
WHAT TO SEE
Archaeology Museum (Muzeum Archeologiczne)
B-4, ul. Poselska 3, tel. (+48) 12 422 71 00, www.
ma.krakow.pl. Fresh from a recent boost of cash, Krakws
one-time lacklustre Archaeology Museum has been transformed into something actually worth going to have a look at.
As well as some fine examples of life from Maopolska during
the Stone Age and a brilliant room dedicated to local clothing
from 70,000 BC to the 14th century, the museum houses a
permanent collection of artefacts from ancient Egypt including some beautiful shrouds, a number of intricately decorated
sarcophagi and some mummified cats. The latter exhibition
is best enjoyed with the aid of an audio guide, available for
an extra charge. Q Open 09:00-14:00, Thu 14:00-18:00,
Fri , Sun 10:00-14:00. Closed Sat. Admission 7/5z, Sun free
for permanent exhibitions. Audioguide 5z. Y
Archdiocesan Museum of Cardinal Karol Wojtya

(Muzeum Archidiecezjalne Kardynaa Karola
Wojtyy) C-5, ul. Kanonicza 19-21, tel. (+48) 12 421
89 63, www.muzeumkra.diecezja.pl. John Paul II lived
here - twice. Once as Karol Wojtyla, the young priest with
a penchant for skiing (his Head skis are on show) and later
as a bishop, in grander, adjacent rooms. The Archdiocesan
doubles as a small but well-presented showcase of beautiful
sacral art, some dating back to the 13th century. Among the
items on display, you will find presents to His Holiness from
heads-of-state. All very nice, but the exhibition will only hold the
attention of true papal enthusiasts, and visitors can expect
to be tailed by over-zealous curators. Personal guided tours
available or for groups up to 30 people in French, English and
Polish. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Closed
Mon. Admission 5/3z, family ticket 12z. Guided tours 60z.
Bishop Erazm Cioek Palace (Paac Biskupa

Erazma Cioka) C-5, ul. Kanonicza 17, tel. (+48) 12
424 93 85, www.muzeum.krakow.pl. This early 14th century palace holds two permanent exhibitions of the National
Museum, Art of Old Poland from the 12th to 18th Centuries
and Orthodox Art of the Old Polish Republic. As you could
have guessed, both exhibits consist entirely of sacral art from
before the idea of art was applied to non-religious subject
matter (how many centuries did that take?). Most of it came
directly out of Krakws own churches or others in the region,
and most of it is admittedly superb, if thats your thing. If its
not, its a bit of a snoozefest. The highlight is without doubt
the strange 16th century Christ Riding a Donkey, a near lifesize wooden sculpture of everyones favourite model doing
just that with vacant eyes and the mule atop a wagon. Eerily
beautiful. Also of note is the wooden Madonna from Krulowa
which dates from around 1400. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sun
10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before
closing. Admission 12/6z, family ticket 24z, audioguide 5z.
Sun free for permanent exhibitions.
Collegium Maius (Jagiellonian University Museum) B-3, ul. Jagielloska 15, tel. (+48) 12 663 13
07, www.maius.uj.edu.pl. Jagiellonian University is the
third oldest university in Europe, founded by King Kazimierz
the Great in 1364. Its picturesque courtyard ranks as one of
the most beautiful of the city. An amiable English-speaking
guide will take you on a 45-minute tour of the Treasury, Assembly Hall, Library and Common Room. Along the way, you
will see the oldest surviving globe to depict the Americas.
It was in 1492 that astronomer Nicolas Copernicus began
his studies at the Jagiellonian, developing his own theories
about which way the world spins. You need to call or visit
in advance to book a place on the English-language tour,
which takes place Monday through Friday at 13:00. More
basic English-language tours (omitting the gallery and scientific instruments exhibit) begin about every 20 minutes
The Ladys Not Here

Czartoryski Museum
(M u zeu m Ksi t
Czartoryskich) C-2,
ul. w. Jana 19, tel.
(+48) 12 422 55 66,
www.muzeum.krakow.
pl. Renowned for its possession of Leonardo da
Vincis Lady with an Ermine - one of only three
existent Da Vinci oil paintings and a sentimental
favourite for Poles, reproduced and hung in
many a living room, the
Czartoryski is Krakws most famous and most visited
museum. Unfortunately for visitors the museum is currently closed for a much-needed renovation, the length
of which is expected to last well into 2012, during which
Lady With an Ermine will be on loan to other international museums. Those with an interest in the Czartoryski
collection other than Da Vincis varmint-holding muse
should consider visiting the adjacent Gallery Of Ancient
Art, which remains open during renovation works, or
making the trip out to Niepoomice where much of
the collection is currently on display in the Royal Castle
25km east of Krakw. Q Closed for renovation. Y
throughout the day, though were informed its wise to
arrange these beforehand as well. QOpen 10:00 - 15:00,
Tue 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Last entrance 40 minutes
before closing. Admission 12/6z for permanent exhibit,
16/12z for entire museum (including gallery and scientific
instruments) or tour. Admission free on Tuesdays between
14:00 and 16:00 for a self-guided tour.
Gallery of Ancient Art (Arsena - Galeria Sztuki

Staroytnej) C-2, ul. Pijarska 8, tel. (+48) 12 422
55 66, www.muzeum.krakow.pl. This small branch of
the National Museum is also a satellite of the Czartoryski
Museum across the street, and brings together three unique
collections of ancient art amassed abroad during the 19th
and 20th centuries by the Czartoryski family, the Potocki
family of Krzeszowice and the Krakw National Museum. On
display are artefacts primarily from ancient Egypt, Greece
and Rome dating from between the 3rd century BC to the 7th
century AD, with highlights including marble sculptures and
Egyptian sarcophagi and animal mummies. Its amazing that
these items found their way to Krakw and they provide an
interesting look at the material culture of the ancient world,
but are hardly required viewing for those without a special
interest in antiquity. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon.
Admission 6/3z, familly ticket 12z.
Geology Museum (Muzeum Geologiczne ING

PAN) C-4, ul. Senacka 3, tel. (+48) 12 422 19 10,
www.ing.pan.pl. One tiny room given over to the provision
of information about the rocks and geological structures in
the Krakw region. Featuring a few glass cases full of rocks
and crystals with Polish explanations, its not exactly going
to blow you away, but its nice enough as a brief interlude all
the same, and theyve also thoughtfully provided a brochure
in English to help demystify what is a specialist subject to say
the least. QOpen 10:00 - 15:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed
Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. Admission 4/3z. Last Sat of each month
entrance free. Groups by prior arrangement.
Main Market Square

Main Market Square (Rynek) C-3, . Krakws
main market square (Rynek) serves as the citys gravitational centre, and is the natural start and finish point
for any tour of the city. Originally designed in 1257 - the
year Krakw was awarded its charter - the gridlike layout
of the Old Town and its central square has changed little
in the years that have followed. Measuring 200 metres
square, the Rynek ranks as one of the largest medieval
squares in Europe, and is surrounded by elegant townhouses, all with their own unique names, histories and curiosities. Through the centuries it was in Krakws Rynek
that homage to the king was sworn and public executions
held. Most famously it was here that Tadeusz Kociuszko
roused the locals to revolt against foreign rule in 1794.
The Rynek has always been the natural stage for public
celebrations, with everything from parades of sausage
dogs to Christmas crib competitions taking place. Not
all the events have had been happy affairs however, and
back in the 17th century King Jan Sobieski III was privy to
a firework display which ended in bloodshed when some
of the explosives were accidentally fired into the crowd.
Some mistake. More recently the market square was
subjected to a Nazi rally under German occupation which
was attended by Der Fhrer himself and celebrated the
squares name change from Rynek Gwny to Adolf Hitler
Platz. Fortunately the moniker didnt last long and today
the Rynek occupies itself by hosting the yearly Christmas
and Easter markets, as well as numerous festivals and
outdoor concerts.
Taking centre stage in the Rynek is the Cloth Hall (Sukiennice). Built in the 14th century this huge hall was effectively
the first shopping mall in the world. To this day it is still
crammed with hawkers and stalls selling amber, lace,
woodwork and assorted tourist tat. Destroyed by fire in the
16th century it was rebuilt in 1555 using the renaissance
signature of Italian architect Giovanni il Mosca. Alterations
have continued ever since, including the addition of neoGothic arcades in the 19th century. Recently a 4,000m2,
hi-tech museum tracing its history, and that of the entire
city, has opened underneath the Rynek with a permanent
exhibition entitled In the Footsteps of Krakws European Identity (see Rynek Underground).
Directly next to the Sukiennice stands Polands most
eminent scribe: Adam Mickiewicz. Ironically, the bard
never visited the city until after his death when his
remains were transferred to the Wawel Cathedral crypt,
but this hasnt stopped the statue from becoming one of
Krakws best loved monuments. Across from Mickiewicz
looms the magnificent St. Marys Basilica, its crowning
glory being Veit Stoss altarpiece. The area surrounding
the Basilica was formerly a cemetery, and the bodies
of hundreds of Krakovians still lie beneath the cobbles.
Ghoulish tourists will also appreciate the set of metal
neck restraints displayed on the side door of St Marys,
formerly used to punish philandering women.
On the Squares other side is the 70 metre Town Hall
Tower, the only element of the 14th century Town Hall
remaining after many fires, renovations and uncaring
demolitions. Open from April to November only, visitors can ascend up to the 3rd floor through Gothic vaulted
rooms which contain, amongst other things, 1960s
photographs of Krakw and look out on the square below
from the viewing point.
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WHAT TO SEE
Tyskie Brewery
Tyskie Brewery (Tyskie Browary Ksice) ul.

Mikoowska 5 (entrance from Katowicka 9), Tychy,
tel. (+48) 32 327 84 30, www.tyskiebrowarium.
com.pl. The Tyskie Browary Ksice, in the town of
Tychy (German Tichau) some 10km south of Katowice has
been brewing beer continuously for nearly 400 years. And
because of its Silesian location it has witnessed a number of historic events over the years with its own history
reflecting that of the region. The originally German-owned
brewery now produces the famous Tyskie Gronie, Polands
best selling beer, and Tyskie Browary Ksices (or just
Tyskie) impressive ensemble of buildings also includes
a superb little museum which is open to the public for
tours. Taking about 2.5 hours and led by a friendly and
informative, English-speaking guide, the Tyskie tour takes
visitors through the entire brewing process. Starting in
the immaculately preserved Old Brewery, a masterpiece
of original decorative tiles and old copper vats installed
during WWI that have had modern brewing equipment
cleverly put inside them, the tour follows the brewing
process from start to finish and also offers a fascinating
insight into the history of the factory. Highlights include the
so-called Bachelors Quarters and the saucy tales that go
with them, a glimpse of the brewerys own railway station
and, across the road, a look inside the fabulously fragrant
bottling plant. Now producing over 8,000,000 hectolitres
of booze annually (or to put it another way, if you put all
that beer into half litre bottles and laid them end to end
youd have a line of beer 80,000km long), the rise of the
brewery is recorded inside the superb Brewery Museum,
complete with interactive displays in English and housed
inside a red brick neo-Gothic church built in 1902. Tours
must be booked in advance, and yes, theres a tasting
session at the end. The tours are conducted in Polish,
English, German, Spanish, French, Italian, Czech, Russian
and in the local Silesian dialect (if you ever wanted to hear
what that might sound like). The museum building also
houses the local City Museum, which is well worth having
a look inside if youve got the time, while the town itself
is also worth exploring to properly cap your trip to Tychy.
The easiest way to get to Tychy from Krakw is by car
and the 85km journey will take about an hour and a half.
Alternatively you can get there from Krakw by train which
involves a change in Katowice and takes about two and
a half hours. The brewery is a short walk southeast from
Tychy train station. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
Last entrance 2,5 hours before closing. Visitors must be
over 18 and should call in advance to book a place on the
tour. Admission 12/6z. Be advised that the brewery
will undergo a renovation in early 2012, but when
work will begin is unknown at the present time.
Those looking to visit in January should check the
website to make sure it is open.
WHAT TO SEE
Hipolit House (Kamienica Hipolitw) C-3, Pl.
Mariacki 3, tel. (+48) 12 422 42 19, www.mhk.pl. The
Hipolits were a merchant family who lived in this fine building around the end of the 16th and beginning of the 17th
centuries, although the building dates back considerably
further than that. The inside has been transformed into a
series of recreations of typical Polish bourgeois houses from
the 17th to the early 20th century, and is interesting for the
insights it gives into how the other half lived as well as being a showcase for some truly remarkable furniture. Highly
recommended. Q Open 09:00 - 16:00, Thu 12:00 - 19:00.
Closed Mon, Tue. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing.
Admission 7/5z, Wed free.
History Museum (Muzeum Historyczne) C-3,
Rynek Gwny 35, tel. (+48) 12 619 23 00, www.
mhk.pl. Established in 1899, Krakws superb History
Museum charts the trade, culture, politics and daily life of
the city from 1257 until the end of the Second Republic in
1939. Unfortunately the 17th-century building its housed
in continues to undergo renovation works, meaning the
permanent gallery is closed. Part of the museum still
plays host to temporary exhibitions, and now is a fantastic
time to visit as the History Museum currently hosts its
most popular exhibit of the year: the annual display
of Christmas Cribs (Szopki Krakowska, see events
for more). One of Krakws most unique and cherished
Christmas traditions, these strange amalgamations of a
gaudy gingerbread house, dollhouse and nativity scene
(or something like that) will be on display until Feb 26th
and are a must-see, dont miss it. Q Open 09:00-18:00;
Fri, Sat 09:00-19:00. Admission 8/6z, family ticket 16z.
Mon 3z. Y
History of Photography Museum (Muzeum
Historii Fotografii im. Walerego Rzewuskiego)
H-1, ul. Jzefitw 16, tel. (+48) 12 634 59 32,
www.mhf.krakow.pl. Allegedly Polands only museum
dedicated exclusively to photography, this recently renovated museum is a real gem for fans of the art form and
features some interesting exhibits. Laid out in several
cupboard-size rooms that also play host to a series of
changing photographic exhibitions, an old darkroom,
heaps of ancient cameras and a nice collection of historical images of Krakw. Q Open 11:00-18:00; Sat,
Sun 10:00-15:30. Closed Mon, Tue, except for groups (3
person minimum) who arrange at least 7 days in advance.
Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission
8/5z, Sun free. Y
NEW
Home Army Museum (Muzeum Armii Krajowej)

J-1, ul. Wita Stwosza 12, tel. (+48) 12 410 07 70, www.
muzeum-ak.krakow.pl. A beautifully restored 3-floor redbrick railway building has been adapted (including a beautiful
glass atrium) to house the Home Army Museum - documenting Polands military resistance against foreign invaders over
the last century. The permanent exhibition will not open until
July 2012, however some small temporary exhibits have
been on display since the summer. Sadly lacking in English
information, the Home Army Museum currently has little to
offer foreigners, but looks set to be a nice addition to the
citys cultural offerings when it opens in earnest. QOpen
10:30 - 17:30. Closed Mon, Sat, Sun. Admission 5/2.50z,
family ticket 10z. Y
Jan Matejko House (Dom Jana Matejki) D -3,

ul. Floriaska 41, tel. (+48) 12 422 59 26, www.
muzeum.krakow.pl. Jan Matejko was an historical
painter whose work and life is honoured in the house
where he was born, and would eventually die in the

1890s. As well as some witty imaginings of Krakw
medieval life, studies for gargoyles and collections of
Renaissance furniture and antique guns and ammo,
the minutiae of Matejkos life is preserved, right down
to his eyeglasses in this recently renovated museum.
This is a fascinating tribute to a genuine Polish master,
and a man of many parts. Those with a special interest
in Matejko may want to visit his workshop and manor
house in Nowa Huta (see Nowa Huta Museums). QOpen
10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Last
entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 8/4z,
family ticket 16 z, audioguide 5z. Sun free for permanent exhibitions. Y
Jzef Mehoffer House (Dom Jzefa Mehoffera) A-2, ul. Krupnicza 26, tel. (+48) 12 370 81
86, www.muzeum.krakow.pl. Mehoffer was one of
the turn of the 19th centurys artistic elite, a skilled
stained-glass artist collaborating with Wyspaski on the
interiors of numerous Krakw churches and important
buildings. This, his house, was where the artists of
the Moda Polska (Young Poland) movement often met
and is a delight to visit, filled with elegant furnishings,
Art Deco to impressionist-era art and many sketches,
designs and finished stained glass pieces that attest
to his important artistic legacy. In warmer months you
wont find a more magical place to relax and read a book
than the hidden garden behind the house, presided over
by the old-fashioned Cafe Waka - one of the citys bestkept secrets. Visitors to the museum should reserve
tickets in advance by phone and may need to ring the
buzzer upon arrival. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon,
Tue. Admission 6/3z, family ticket 12z. Sun free for
permanent exhibitions. Y
Barbican
The showpiece of the citys medieval defences, the
Barbican was built at the end of the 15th century to
protect Krakws main entrance and was connected
to the Floriaska Gate via a drawbridge over the moat
that surrounded it. 24.4 metres in diameter with
walls 3 metres thick this masterpiece of medieval
military engineering proved impenetrable and today
stands as one of the only surviving structures of its
kind in Europe; certainly the most well-preserved.
Built in Gothic style, the Krakw Barbican is topped
by seven turrets and includes 130 defensive slots
used by archers and riflemen. One of the structures
most famous legends comes from 1768, when local
burgher Marcin Oracewicz defended Krakw from the
Russians during the Bar Confederation by shooting
their commander Colonel Panin dead with a coat button from his position within the Barbican; a plaque
on the eastern side of the fortress commemorates
the incident and Oracewiczs monument can be seen
outside the Celestat Museum. Today the Barbican is
used for various special events (medieval pageants,
jousting contests) and can be visited as an outdoor
museum between the months of April and October, where youll learn the history of Krakws
defensive walls. As the bastion is almost always
empty, it makes a fantastic place for a game of tag
or an outpost for spying on passersby, however
beware the gruesome sight of pigeons who have inadvertently lynched themselves in the netting meant
to keep them out of the turrets. We guarantee youll
see at least three.
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WHAT TO SEE
Plac Szczepaski
Plac Szczepaski B-2. Formerly little more than
a passing blip on the tourist radar, Plac Szczepaski
is the latest of Krakws public squares to have been
returned to splendour. Despite its prime location
lined with beautiful town houses, it wasnt long ago
that this historical square was an eye-offending car
park flanked with taxis and flowerless concrete flowerbeds. Pepper in a few talentless pan-handlers and
garish plastic bins, not to mention peppering whoever
youre speaking to with spit when trying to pronounce
its name, and Plac Szczepaski just wasnt really
making itself the citys best ambassador. However,
following the success of the nearby May Ryneks
cultural reclamation, the local authorities levelled
their eyes at modernising the place, with work beginning in January 2009. After two years work and 13z
million spent, Plac Szczepaski now presents quite
a different face to visitors. Completely repaved and
car-free, the Secessionist style of the surrounding
buildings informed the renovated squares redesign,
particularly its main element, a large multi-media
fountain with many jet streams, some of which spring
straight out of the ground in front of the main pool.
Despite critical grumblings from the citys conservative architectural and historical community, residents
seem to be loving the new fountain, with kids and dogs
happily splashing through its waters in the summer.
The fountain, which is illuminated by coloured lights
in the evening, has quickly become the most popular
place to cool off in the city centre during the warmer
part of the year. Taking a spade to Plac Szczepaski
was no easy task, and to no-ones surprise numerous archaeological discoveries repeatedly delayed
the work. Centuries before any pavement was ever
laid down, this was the site of a Jesuit church and
cemetery. When the order was disbanded in the early
19th century, the church was levelled and the inconveniently placed gravestones were likewise ripped out.
Only the eternally reposing bodies remained, leaving
todays visitors to unwittingly tread upon the graves
of hundreds, including that of Samuel aszcz (15881649), a candidate for Polands naughtiest nobleman.
A notorious soldier, outlaw and troublemaker, aszcz
was sentenced to exile 236 times during his life, and
the recipient of 37 sentences of infamy. According
to common legend, the bad boy of Polish aristocracy
was above civil jurisdiction by virtue of his status
as a military man and proudly carried these ineffectual sentences pinned to his coat right up until
his death. The arrival of Napoleons army in the early
19th century breathed a brief flicker of life in Plac
Szczepaski when it became a parade ground. Plans
for a monument glorifying the diminutive generals
achievements went out the window when the Frenchmans campaign hit the skids on the plains of Russia
and Plac Szczepaski soon reverted to functioning as
a vegetable market before becoming a car park from
the 1960s until the work began. A spin around the
square today showcases some of the citys finest Art
Nouveau architecture. Dont miss the reliefs on the
faades of the historic 1843 Teatr Stary at N1, the
1909 Secession building of the Agricultural Society
at N8 or the 1901 Palace of the Arts at N4. Draped
in art not only on the exterior, the Szoayski House
at N11 houses the Wyspiaski Museum, dedicated
to Krakws golden boy of the Arts.
WHAT TO SEE
Manggha B-6, ul. Konopnickiej 26, tel. (+48) 12 267 27
03, www.manggha.krakow.pl. The Museum of Japanese
Art & Technology houses the National Museums Japanese
artefacts, consisting primarily of local legend Feliks Jasieskis
fabulous 6,500-piece collection, featuring battlesuits, antiques, porcelain, incredibly beautiful watercolour paintings
and comical woodprints. The modern building was created by
legendary Polish film director Andrzej Wajda, a native of Krakw
who saw the private collection of Feliks Jasieski exhibited
during WWII. Upon winning the Kyoto city prize in 1987, Wajda
donated the US$340,000 grant for the construction of the
museum. Q Open 10:00-18:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance
30 minutes before closing. Admission 15/10z, family ticket
25z, group ticket 60z, Tue free. Guided tours 100z.
National Museum in Krakw (Muzeum Narodowe
w Krakowie) H-3, Al. 3 Maja 1, tel. (+48) 12 295
55 00, www.muzeum.krakow.pl. Far from being the
shoeless peasants many cynical historians would have us
believe, previous generations of Poles have in actual fact
excelled in the arts. The superb National Museum of Art
in Krakw showcases many such examples of their work.
As well as a number of world-class temporary shows, the
museum also houses fine collections of Polish applied arts
and weaponry and gives its entire top floor over to the
permanent 20th-century Polish Art exhibition, a truly awesome collection - showcasing the works of such visionaries
as Kantor, Wyspiaski and Witkacy - that any gallery would
be more than proud of owning. The museum also houses a
small bookshop and TriBeCa caf. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00,
Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes
before closing. Admission 10/5z, audioguide 5z. Sun free
for permanent exhibitions. Y
Palace of the Arts (Paac Sztuki) B -2, Pl.

Szczepaski 4, tel. (+48) 12 422 66 16. This gorgeous
Art Nouveau buildings exterior depicts the highs and lows of
the creative process, with a few famous Poles incorporated
in. The interior is a whitewashed setting for regularly changing exhibits of Polish contemporary art. More a gallery than
a museum, this ones easy to miss. QOpen 08:15 - 18:00,
Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Last entrance 30 minutes before
closing. Admission 7/4z.
Pharmacy Museum (Muzeum Farmacji) C-2,

ul. Floriaska 25, tel. (+48) 12 421 92 79, www.
muzeumfarmacji.pl. Located inside a wonderful 15thcentury building, Krakws brilliant Pharmacy Museum is
laid out on several floors and includes all manner of exhibits
from full-scale reproductions of ancient apothecary shops
to some beastly snakes in jars and, on the top floor, a really
good display of traditional herbal medicines. Also of interest is the small exhibit dedicated to the extraordinary and
brave Pole, Tadeusz Pankiewicz. QOpen 10:00 - 14:30, Tue
12:00 - 18:30. Closed Mon. Last entrance 45 minutes before
closing. Admission 9/6z.
Polish Aviation Museum (Muzeum Lotnictwa
Polskiego) Al. Jana Pawa II 39 (Czyyny), tel. (+48) 12
642 87 00, www.muzeumlotnictwa.pl. Until recently this
magnificent museum was little more than a place of marginal
interest to flight enthusiasts, most of them from Poland. A
46 million zoty investment has changed all that though.
The aforementioned fortune has been spent on a brand
new, propeller-shaped building on four floors, bursting with
hi-tech goodies including a cinema and an interactive space
for children alongside a library, museum shop and a collection
of planes including a marvellous Blriot XI dating from 1909
and a Polish-built RWD from the 1930s. Considering some
80% of the financing came from the EU its a little bit disap-
pointing to see that most of the displays are in Polish only, but
dont let that put you off too much. The rest of the museum
remains intact, including hangars and buildings containing
some remarkable machines, plus uniforms, photographs and
even a complete Spitfire with Polish markings. The outdoor
section (the museum is located on an old airfield) is littered
with aircraft including several Russian-built fighter jets from
the days of the Warsaw Pact. All in all, the entire ensemble
provides exactly the kind of entertainment and education a
museum should provide, and can take up most of a day to
explore thoroughly. Northeast of the Old Town on the way to
Nowa Huta, take tram numbers 4, 5, 9, 10, 15 or 40 -or- bus
numbers124 or 424, getting off at the Wieczysta stop. A
taxi if called in advance should cost around 25z each way.
Highly recommended. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon.
Admission 10/5z, Tue free. Y
Ulica Pomorska (Former Gestapo Cells) H-1, ul.

Pomorska 2, tel. (+48) 12 613 14 14, www.mhk.pl.
People of Krakow in Times of Terror 1939-1945-1956 is
an exhibit that endeavours to recount the misery and cruelty
of foreign domination and totalitarian injustice in Krakw.
Sponsored by the History Museum, the exhibit can be found
alongside the corollary Former Gestapo Cells which are free
of charge and impressive in their own right. Youll find the
exhibits just across from Plac Inwalidow, ironically housed
in a building which was originally the headquarters for an
organization that celebrated Polish nationalism and sought
to recover territories outside of Poland with native Polish
populations. Both exhibits are accessed through the interior
courtyard behind a tunnel decorated with chilling black and
white mug shots of former prisoners held here during Nazi
occupation. In what may be more than ironic coincidence, the
hostel situated just above the exhibits is entitled Freedom.
Inside is a meticulously documented record of the era of
Nazi and Communist tyranny in the city, replete with audio
recreations of interrogations and mass executions. There is a
small model of an interrogation room and a plethora of short
bios and histories of the most notorious arrests, tortures,
imprisonments and executions, culminating with the last
Communist show trials in the mid-1950s. Quotations from
victims are juxtaposed poignantly with propaganda posters
from both tyrannies.
The Former Gestapo Cells are literally the prison cells that
housed mostly political prisoners during that era. Many writings and carved inscriptions are still visible on the walls and
even the illegible ones have been transcribed and enlarged
giving a grim first-hand account of lives (and deaths) of political prisoners in these very rooms. There are no fairy-tale
endings here, so come prepared for an excellent but sobering
and bluntly tragic display of the history through which Krakw
has suffered. It is absolutely worth a visit and is only about
a 15-minute walk up Karmelicka Street from the Planty. Q
Open 09:00 - 16:00, Thu 12:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 6/5z, Tue free. Admission to
Former Gestapo Cells is free.
Wyspiaski Museum (Muzeum Wyspiaskiego)

B-2, ul. Szczepaska 11, tel. (+48) 12 292 81 83, www.
muzeum.krakow.pl. Dedicated to the beautiful works of
Stanisaw Wyspiaski (1869-1907), Krakws foremost Art
Nouveau artist and one of the citys most celebrated sons.
Of particular interest are the sketches and paintings of his
children, the designs for the stained glass windows of the
St. Francis Basilica and the model of Wawel Hill transformed
into a Polish Acropolis. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00
- 16:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 8/4z, audioguide 5z, Sun free for permanent
exhibitions. Y
The Wawel Chakra

One of Wawels most well-known, but officially unendorsed
legends is that of the fabled chakra stone. A chakra, fyi, is
a natural energy point or centre of consciousness found in
every living being, as believed in the religious, spiritual and
yogic traditions of India, China, and independent groups in
the West. According to chakra doctrine, there are seven
chakra points on the body corresponding with the seven
sacred stones the Hindu goddess Shiva flung across the
earth as a gift to mankind. Those seven stones just so
happened to land in some of the most important spiritual
centres on earth, namely Rome, Mecca, Delhi, Delphi,
Jerusalem, Velehrad (CZ) and what do you know? the
northwestern corner of Wawels immaculate courtyard. At
least thats where believers claim to have felt its cosmic
energy the strongest. Most believers simply place their
hands against the supposed energy source, though some
have gone so far as to stand on their heads with back,
palms and heels pressed against it leaving oily smudges
on the wall that reveal its location to the uninitiated (when
you enter the courtyard, turn left and make for the corner).
Doing such today wont earn you much sympathy from
the Castle staff who consider the legend a nuisance and
have done everything they can to deflect attention away
from Wawels famous corner, including putting up a sign
asking people to refrain from touching it (that obviously
didnt work), roping it off, putting museum exhibits over
top of it and having a guard stand nearby as was the case
during our last visit. Wawel tour guides are stricken from
speaking about the chakra stone, as youll quickly learn if
you broach the topic with one. Still dont let that stop you
from getting your chakra on.
The Zbruch Idol

If youre admiring Wawel Castle, you might notice the
strange, battered sculpture in front of it at Plac Bernardyski
(C-5). Thats a replica of the Zbruch Idol, a rare and coveted
archaeological treasure from the 9th century. Why so rare?
This is one of the most important Slavic artefacts in the
world - the only sculpture in existence believed to depict a
Slavic god. For that reason, youll find replicas of the Zbruch
Idol in many museums, including the Moscow and Kiev
Historical Museums, however, Krakw has the distinction
of housing the original idol in its fine Archaeological Museum
on ulica Poselska (B/C-4). Commonly associated with the
god of war, Svantevit, the deity didnt do a very good job
defending himself when crusaders tossed him into the
Zbruch river during the Christianisation of the East Slav
tribes in todays Ukraine. Discovered during a drought near
the village of Liczkowce in 1848, the narrow, four-sided
limestone pillar 2.7 metres in height, has three tiers of
badly-weathered bas-reliefs etched on it. The bottom tier
shows a kneeling, bearded figure supporting the upper
tiers with his hands. The smaller middle tier shows a figure
with arms extended, while the large top section has a head
on each side, united under a Slavic noblemans hat. Each
figure possesses a different object: a ring, a drinking horn
and tiny child, a sword and horse, and an eroded solar
symbol. While interpretations differ, many believe these
tiers represent the three levels of the world, with the largest
being that of the gods. Other theoreticians have speculated
it is four separate Slavic gods, not one, while some would
claim the fact that it is made out of stone, not wood, makes
it altogether non-Slavic.
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118
WAWEL
The glorious ensemble that is Wawel, perched on top of the

hill of the same name immediately south of the Old Town
(B-5), is by far the most important collection of buildings in
Poland. A symbol of national pride, hope, self-rule and not
least of all fierce patriotism, Wawel offers a uniquely Polish
version of the British Buckingham Palace and Westminster
Abbey rolled into one. A gorgeous assortment of predominantly Romanesque, Renaissance and Gothic architecture
dating from around the 14th century onwards, visiting Krakw
and not seeing Wawel is like playing tennis without a ball.
Even for those who know or care little about the countrys
past, Polands ancient seat of royalty contains a vast wealth
of treasures inside its heavily fortified walls that cant fail to
inspire. Made up of the Castle and the Cathedral, of which
the former contains most, but by no means all of the exhibitions, Wawels must-see highlights include the Cathedrals
mind-boggling interior, a tantalising glimpse of Polands very
own crown jewels inside the Crown Treasury and, weather
permitting, a leisurely stroll around its courtyards and
gardens. After the April 2010 Smolensk disaster, Wawels
Royal Crypts became the final resting place of President
Lech Kaczyski and his wife Maria; their tombs are open to
the public free of charge. A full tour of Wawel, which is hard
work but comes with its own rewards, can take an entire day.
Castle
Wawels prominence as a centre of political power predates
the building of the first Cathedral on the site in 1000AD.
Evidence shows that Wawel Hill was being used as a fortified
castle before Polands first ruler, Miesco I (circa 965-992)
chose Wawel as one of his official residences. The first Polish
king crowned in Wawel Cathedral was the teenage Wadysaw
the Short (1306-1333) on January 20, 1319, beginning a
tradition that would see a further 35 royal rulers crowned
there up until the 17th century. All of these rulers used the
Castle as a residence, and all of them added their own architectural details to the building. The moving of the capital
to Warsaw in 1596 and Polands subsequent decline and
partitioning saw the Royal Castle fall into a state of disrepair.
The occupying Austrians used it as a military hospital and
even went so far as to demolish several buildings including
a number of churches on the site. The 20th century saw
Wawel Visitor Centre

Wawel Visitor Centre B-5, Wawel Hill, tel. (+48)
12 422 51 55 (ext. 219), www.wawel.krakow.
pl. Wawel visitor numbers are restricted and tickets
are timed in an attempt to prevent overcrowding. To
guarantee entry as well as avoiding the need to stand
in long queues, call tel. 12 422 16 97 to reserve tickets
for the exhibition you want to see at least one day before
you visit. Tickets are collected from the Wawel Visitor
Centre in the southwestern corner of the complex (B-5,
ul. Bernardyska entrance) at least 30 minutes before
your reserved tour time. Foreign language guides are
available on request. As well as selling tickets, the Visitor
Centre gives away useful and free Wawel maps. Theres
also a small post office, gift shop and a decent caf/
restaurant and terrace in the same building. Q Visitor
Centre open 09:00-17:00. The ticket office within is open
09:15 - 14:45, Sun 09:45 - 14:45. Closed Mon. If you
are collecting pre-booked tickets you should go to the
Reservation Service Office (Biuro Obsugi Rezerwacji),
also inside the Visitor Centre which is open 09:00 15:00. Closed Sun.
WAWEL
the Castle change hands on a number of occasions, with
the huge ongoing renovation works that continue to this
day being halted for a number of reasons, most famously
when the Castle was used as the headquarters of the Nazi
Governor General, Hans Frank, during the German occupation of WWII. Todays Castle complex is a beguiling muddle of
styles including Medieval, Romanesque, Renaissance, Gothic
and Baroque. The inner courtyard with its delightful colonnades is a true architectural masterpiece, and the treasures
contained within do much to contribute to Krakws rightful
status as a truly world-class city.
Castle (Zamek Krlewski) B-5, Wawel Hill, tel.

(+48) 22 422 51 55 ext.219, www.wawel.krakow.pl.
Crown Treasury & Armoury (Skarbiec Koronny

i Zbrojownia) Containing among many splendid treats
Polands very own equivalent of the Crown Jewels, the
Crown Treasury & Armoury provides a delightful excursion into the world of the sumptuous, extravagant and
the just plain violent. To the left, the Crown Treasury
features several glass cases of golden and bejewelled
goblets, platters, coins and other wonders, of which the
Szczerbiec, the countrys original coronation sword, is
the ultimate highlight. To the right the Armoury contains a
frightening array of spiky pikes, wonderment of weapons
including some exceedingly swanky crossbows, and in
the cellar a collection of cannons and replicas of the
banners captured at the Battle of Grunwald. Q Open
09:30 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Last entrance one hour
before closing. Admission 16/9z. Check ticket office for
details and for tickets.
Lost Wawel (Wawel Zaginiony) This smar tly

conceived and executed exhibit presents the remaining
fragments of medieval Wawel, including remnants of the
Rotunda of the Virgin Mary (Krakws first church). A computer generated model of Wawel gives visitors a peek to the
early 10th century construction. Q Open 09:30 - 16:00, Sun
10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance one hour before
closing. Admission 7/4z, Sun free for individual visitors.
Check ticket office for details and for tickets.
State Rooms & Royal Private Apartments

(Reprezentacyjne Komnaty i Prywatne Apartamenty Krlewskie) Two collections in one, of which the
latter is only accessible on a specially conducted guided tour,
these are the rooms in which the royals once lived and did
their entertaining. The spectacular State Rooms seemingly
go on forever, and are full of luscious oil paintings, intricate
16th-century Flemish tapestries, some truly extraordinary
wallpaper and the breathtaking Bird Room. Highlights
include the eerie Deputies Hall, complete with 30 wooden
representations of former Krakw residents heads on the
coffered ceiling and an original throne that really brings the
majesty of Polands past to life. The Royal Private Apartments
are, as one would expect, stunning. Packed with delightful
Gothic and Renaissance details, rooms include the wonderful
Guest Bedroom, complete with original Renaissance larch
wood ceiling and the 15th-century tapestry, Story of the
Knight with the Swan (currently not on display), Wawels
oldest surviving example of the art form, and the charmingly
named Hens Foot, two small rooms inside the 14th-century
Belvedere Tower. What these rooms were originally used
for is anyones guess, but the view from the windows is
well worth the visit. Q State Rooms open 09:30 - 16:00,
Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Royal Private Apartments
open 09:30 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission to State
Rooms 16/9z, Sun free. Royal Private Apartments 21/16z
(guide included).
Cathedral
The scene of the crowning of
almost every Polish king and
queen throughout history, the
current Wawel Cathedral is
the third to be built on the site.
The first cathedral was built of
wood, probably around 1020,
but certainly after the founding
of the Bishopric of Krakw in 1000AD. Destroyed by fire it
was replaced by a second cathedral that subsequently burnt
down again. The current building was consecrated in 1364
and built on the orders of Polands first king to be crowned at
Wawel, Wadysaw the Short (aka. Wadysaw the Elbow-high,
1306-1333), who was crowned among the charred rubble
of its predecessor in 1319. Considered the most important
single building in Poland, Wawels extraordinary Cathedral
contains much that is original, although many glorious additions have been made over the centuries. Arguably not
as stunning as that of its cousin St. Marys on the Rynek,
the interior of Wawel Cathedral more than makes up for its
visual shortcomings thanks to the sheer amount of history
packed inside. At its centre is the imposing tomb of the former
Bishop of Krakw, St. Stanisaw (1030-1079), a suitably
grand monument dedicated to the controversial cleric after
whom the Cathedral is dedicated. Boasting 18 chapels, all
of them about as ostentatious as youre ever likely to see,
of particular interest is the 15th-century Chapel of the Holy
Cross, found to the right as you enter and featuring some
wonderful Russian murals as well as Veit Stoss 1492 marble
sarcophagus to Kazimierz IV. The Royal Crypts offer a
cold and atmospheric diversion as the final resting place of
kings and statesmen - most recently fromer president Lech
Kaczyski - while at the top of a gruelling wooden series of
staircases is the vast, 11 tonne Sigismund Bell - so loud it
can supposedly be heard 50km away.
Cathedral (Katedra) B-5, Wawel 3, tel. (+48) 12 429

33 27, www.katedra-wawelska.pl. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00,
Sun 12:30 - 16:00.
Cathedral Museum (Muzeum Katerdralne) B-5,

Wawel 2, tel. (+48) 12 429 33 21, www.katedrawawelska.pl. Opened in 1978 by Karol Wojtya just before
he became Pope John Paul II, the fabulous Cathedral Museum
features a wealth of religious and secular items dating
from the 13th century onwards, all related to the ups and
downs of the Cathedral next door. Among its most valuable
possessions is the sword deliberately snapped into three
pieces at the funeral of the Calvinist king, Zygmunt August
(1548-1572) the last of the Jagiellonian dynasty, as well
as all manner of coronation robes and royal insignias too
boot. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Last entrance 30
minutes before closing.
Royal Crypts (Groby Krlewskie) B-5, Wawel 3, tel.

(+48) 12 429 33 21, www.katedra-wawelska.pl. While
all Polands pre-16th kings were buried beneath or within their
hulking sarcophagi still on view in the Cathedral today, that
trend stopped in 1533 when King Sigismund I had his wife
interred in a purpose-built underground vault. He joined her
in 1548 and the crypts were expanded in the 16th, 17th and
18th centuries to house the remains of nine more Polish kings,
their wives and, in some cases, their children thereafter. Upon
the demise of the monarchy (and kingdom itself), the honour
was extended to statesmen with Prince Jzef Poniatowski
(1817), Tadeusz Kociuszko (1818), poets Adam Mickiewicz
(1890) and Juliusz Sowacki (1923), Jzef Pisudski (1935) and
General Wadysaw Sikorski (1993) all securing themselves a
119
Dragon Bones
Upon entering Wawel Cathedral, you may notice an odd
collection of massive bones chained up on the left outside the entrance. While legend obviously purports these
to be the bones of Smok Wawelski - Wawels fearsome
dragon - more conventional wisdom has claimed they
might be parts belonging to a blue whale, woolly mammoth, rhinoceros, or all three. At any rate, they havent
been removed and inspected for centuries due to their
magical properties, which are credited with protecting the
city from destruction during centuries of Polish partition
and particularly during WWII when almost every other
major city in PL got flattened.
place here. Most recently - in April of 2010 - the late President

Lech Kaczyski and his wife Maria were controversially interred
here after the tragedy in Smolesk; admission to their tomb
(and that of Pisudski) is free. Descend the stairs inside the
Cathedral into the remarkably chilly chambers, beginning with
the 11th century St. Leonards Crypt - the best Romanesque
interior in PL; the exit deposits you back outside. QOpen
09:00 - 16:00, Sun 12:30 - 16:00.
Sigismund Bell (Dzwon Zygmunta) B-5, Wawel 3,

www.katedra-wawelska.pl. Follow the crowds up the many
gruelling flights of Sigismunds Belfry to reach the infamous
Sigismund Bell - a resounding symbol of Polish nationalism
ala Philadelphias Liberty Bell. The largest by far of five bells
hanging in the same tower, Sigismunds Bell weighs in at
an astounding 13 tonnes (9630 kgs), measures 241cm in
height, 242cm across at the lip and varies from 7 to 21cm
thick. The bronze beauty was cast in 1520 on the orders of
King Sigismund I and is adorned in reliefs of St. Stanislav
and St. Sigismund as well as the coat of arms of Poland
and Lithuania. Rung to this day on religious and national
holidays, as well as significant moments in history (most
recently the funeral of former President Lech Kaczyski
and his wife) the bells peal can be heard 50km away and is
quite an enterprise to ring, requiring the strength of twelve
strong men; a dangerous job, the bell-tollers are actually
lifted from the ground by the force of the bell, resulting in
at least one famous accident when a bell-toller was flung
from the tower to his death during the interwar period. The
entrance to Sigismund Belltower is within the Cathedral and
tickets (good for the Royal Crypts as well) are purchased at
the ticket office across from the Cathedrals main entrance.
QOpen 09:00 - 16:00, Sun 12:30 - 16:00.
Cathedral Tickets
Cathedral Tickets & Tourist Information
B-5, Wawel Hill, tel. (+48) 12 429 95 15, www.
katedra-wawelska.pl. The Cathedral and the Castle
have different ticket offices. Tickets for the Cathedral can
be purchased only in the ticket office directly opposite
the Cathedral entrance. While entrance to the actual
cathedral itself is free you will need a ticket to enter
the adjoining Royal Crypts and Sigismund Bell tower.
A single ticket covers these as well as the Cathedral
Museum. Audioguides for the Cathedral and Cathedral
Museum can be rented from the ticket office for 7/5z in
Polish, English, German, Russian, Italian, Spanish, Czech
or French. QOpen 09:00 - 15:30, Sun 12:30 - 15:30.
Tickets covering the Cathedral Museum, Royal Crypts
and Sigismund Bell cost 12/7z.
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KAZIMIERZ
KAZIMIERZ
Kazimierz is the district that housed Krakws Jews for

over 500 years. Since the 1990s it has been rediscovered,
and its hollowed-out Jewish culture gradually reintroduced.
Famous for its associations with Schindler and Spielberg,
theres more to the historic Jewish quarter than cemeteries
and synagogues. Lying between shops selling buttons and
spanners, youll find the heart of Krakows artsy character.
Peeling faades and wooden shutters hide dozens of cafes,
each one effecting an air of pre-war timelessness. Alternative, edgy and packed with oddities this is an essential point
of interest to any visitor.
The history of Kazimierz can be traced back to 1335 when
it was officially founded as an island town by King Kazimierz
the Great. Unlike Krakw, which was largely populated by
Germans, Kazimierz was dominated by Poles. It was not until
1495 when Jews were expelled from Krakw that they started
to arrive to Kazimierz in force. Awarded its Magdeburg Rights,
which allowed markets to be held in what is now Pl. Wolnica, Kazimierz prospered and it is recorded as being one of the most
influential Polish towns during the middle ages. By the 17th
century Jewish life was flourishing and numerous synagogues
had been constructed. Alas, Kazimierz was about to run out of
luck. In 1651 the area was hit by the plague, then four years
later ransacked and ruined by the Swedish invaders. Famine,
floods and anti-Jewish riots followed in quick succession, and
it wasnt long till a mass migration to Warsaw began, leaving
the once vibrant Kazimierz a broken shell.
In 1796 Krakw came under Austrian control, and four years
later Kazimierz was incorporated into Krakw. It was to signal
the areas rebirth. The governing Austrians ordered Krakws
Jews to resettle in Kazimierz, and the area was slowly redeveloped; timber houses were banned, streets were cobbled
and walls that once ringed Kazimierz demolished. Kazimierz
was finally going places; in 1857 the first gas lamps lit up the
Plac Wolnica
Plac Wolnica D-7. Perhaps Krakws most forgotten
square, its hard to imagine that Plac Wolnica was once
equal in size and stature to Krakws Rynek Gwny.
When laid out as the town square of Kazimierz (Rynek
Kazimierski) upon the towns establishment in 1335,
this space measured 195m by 195m (only 5m shorter
on each side than Rynek Gwny) making it the second
largest market square in Poland, if not Europe. It was
here that all the administrative and judicial authorities
of Kazimierz were established, as well as hundreds of
market stalls selling everything from fur and tobacco to
salt and amber. Hardly the bustling marketplace it once
was, todays Plac Wolnica (named so since the end of
the 18th century when it was granted the privilege of
free trade) covers only a small fragment of the squares
original size. However, the Town Hall has managed to survive. Falling into ruin after Kazimierzs incorporation into
Krakw in 1802, the Town Hall was taken over by local
Jewish authorities who renovated it into its present neoRenaissance style in the late 19th century. Since WWII it
has housed the recommended Ethnographic Museum.
Ironically, it has been the once more predominantly Jewish neighbourhoods around Plac Nowy that have keyed
Kazimierzs revival over the last decade as Plac Wolnica
has become more synonymous with parking, pigeons and
drunken derelicts. That all looks set to change however,
with more cafs and restaurants opening around its
edges and a new pedestrian bridge connecting Kazimierz
with Podgrze over the river to the south.
exhibition space with rotating historical exhibits about the

history of Polands Jewish population (see Shopping). Its also
on Jzefa youll find what many regard to be Krakws most
picturesque courtyard. Accessed via an archway, the cobbled
courtyard at number 12 (D-6) is instantly recognizable from
Spielbergs Schindlers List, particularly from the other side
on ul. Meiselsa, where youll find the excellent Mleczarnia
cafe/beer garden and the Judaica Foundation at no. 17.
ulica Szeroka
streets, a tram depot added in 1888 and in 1905 a power
station. By 1910 the Jewish population stood at 32,000, a
figure that was to nearly double during the inter-war years, and
a rich cultural life arose around them. But this was to change
with the outbreak of WWII, and the Nazis monstrous ideas
of racial superiority. Approximately three to five thousand of
Krakws Jews survived the horror of the Holocaust, a large
proportion of them saved by Oskar Schindler. Although 5,000
Jews were registered as living in Krakw in 1950 any hopes
of rekindling the past soon vanished. The anti-Zionist policies of the post-war communist authorities sparked waves
of emigration to Israel, and by the 1970s signs of Jewish
life had all but disappeared. The fall of communism in 1989
sparked new hope. Kazimierz by this time had become a bandit
suburb, the sort of place youd only visit with military backup.
But investment began trickling in and the areas decline was
reversed; 1988 saw the first Jewish Festival take place, and
five years later the Judaica Foundation was opened. That was
also the year Spielberg arrived to film Schindlers List, a film
that would put Kazimierz on the world map and irrevocably
change its fortunes. Today a visit to Kazimierz ranks just as
high on itineraries as a trip to Wawel, illustrating the historical
importance and public regard the area has.
To get a feel for the area start your tour of Kazimierz at the
top of Szeroka, coming from ulica Miodowa (E-6). Here youll
find the restaurant Dawno Temu Na Kazimierzu (Long Ago in
Kazimierz). Disguised to look like a row of shop fronts the
doorways come adorned with traders names splashed on
them: Holzer, Weinberg, Nowak. Its not hard to feel the ghosts
of the past as you walk down the Austrian cobbles. Next door
stock up on your literature by visiting Jarden, the areas first
Jewish bookstore, or take a look at Szeroka 6 (now Klezmer
Hois hotel and restaurant). The building formerly housed the
Great Mikvah, a ritual bathhouse that gained notoriety in 1567
when the wooden floor collapsed and ten women drowned.
Modern day Szeroka has a raft of restaurants to pick from,
though you cant do much better than visiting Rubinstein at
number 12. Its named so for a reason. Queen of Cosmetics
Helena Rubinstein was born next door at number 14.
While on your Kazimierz safari do put aside time to visit the

Galicia Jewish Museum (ul. Dajwr 18, E-6) and Isaac
Synagogue (ul. Kupa 18, E-6), whose restored interiors now
house a permanent exhibition titled In memory of Polish
Jews. In 1939 a member of the synagogue committee was
executed inside these halls after refusing to set fire to it.
The synagogue is also the source of an enchanting legend.
It relates to the founder, Isaac, a devout but impoverished
Jew who once had a dream telling him if he went to Prague he
would discover great treasures buried by a bridge. Following
his instincts he set off to Prague, only to find the bridge he
had dreamt of surrounded by a garrison of soldiers. Having
spotted him loitering, one of the soldiers challenged Isaac
as to his intentions. Isaac came clean, only for the soldier to
scoff words to the effect of Youre an idiot! Ive been having
dreams all my life about a Krakw Jew called Isaac who has
treasure hidden under his stove. But Im not stupid enough
to go to Krakw, especially seeing that every second Jew
is called Isaac. You can guess the rest. The moment Isaac
returned home he pulled the stove down and discovered a
wealth of riches, making him the richest man in Kazimierz.
But Kazimierz is not exclusively Jewish. Take for example
the stunning Corpus Christi Church on ul. Boego Ciaa
(D-6/7). Completed in 1405 the 70 metre tower dominates
the horizon, and work through the ages has seen a slew of
intricate details added to both the exteriors and interiors.
Try and track down the tiny church prison in which sinners
who had broken the sixth commandment would be held and
subjected to public ridicule. Also of note is a 15th century
painting, the Madonna Terribilis Daemonibus. Used in exorcisms for the last five centuries the canvas is reputed to
have warded off a hundred thousand demons. Sticking to the
ecclesiastical theme stop by Skaka (C-7). Its right by the altar
that Stanisaw, the Bishop of Szczepanw was murdered
and then quartered at the whim of King Bolesaw the Bold.
Stanisaw was later beatified, becoming the patron saint of
Poland, and it became a tradition for Polish Kings to make the
pilgrimage from Wawel to this church in a bid to compensate
for the sins of Bolesaw. A stone allegedly splattered with
the blood of the saint can be viewed close by. Ghouls will
also to be delighted to learn of the crypt, one of the most
high profile in Krakw. Its here youll find the mortal remains
of local heroes Czesaw Miosz and Stanisaw Wyspiaski.
Plac Nowy D-6. While Krakws main square, Rynek

Gwny, makes all the postcards and photographs, it is
Plac Nowy in Kazimierz that has emerged as the spiritual
centre of Krakw sub-culture. Lacking the splendour of
the Old Town, Plac Nowy is, if anything, something of an
eyesore - a collection of unkempt buildings surrounding
a concrete square filled with chipped green market stalls
and rat-like pigeons flapping about. If you want something
completely different from the Old Town, however, here it is.
Plac Nowy started assuming its shape in 1808 having
been incorporated into the Jewish quarter in the late 17th
century, and its Jewish connections are highlighted by an
oft-encountered local insistence on referring to it as Plac
ydowski (Jewish Square). For over 200 years it has served
as a market place with its central landmark, the round market building, being added in 1900. The rotunda was leased
to the Jewish community in 1927 serving as a ritual slaughterhouse for poultry right up until Nazi occupation. Following
the war it resumed its role as the centre of the market
around it, a function it still carries today. Apparently its the
only place in Krakw where you can purchase horsemeat,
though savages with unrefined taste will instead be found
lining up outside the dozen or so hole-in-the-wall fast food
hatches that operate from the rotunda. Most legendary of
these is Endzior, a rite-of-passage for any first time visitors
to Kazimierz. Placing their order through the slit-like window
youll find everyone from police blokes ignoring emergency
calls on their walkie-talkies, to stick-thin party girls getting
their weeks worth of calories; Kazimierz without Endzior is
like Rome without a coliseum.
Surrounding the Okrglak (rotunda) are some 310 trading
stalls (with 33 more in the smaller square around the corner),
and youll find something going on daily from 5:30am till early
afternoon. Fresh produce, sweets and random rubbish are
constant guarantees but weekly highlights include Sundays
clothing market, and Tuesday and Friday mornings bewildering small critter expo/pigeon fair, the latter of which is a photo
essay waiting to happen. Arrive early to find the answer to
the riddle, How many rabbits fit in a suitcase?
As trade dries up for the day the area takes on a new
guise: Krakws premier pub crawl circuit. Find the academics with beads, beards and secondhand books in
places like Singer, Alchemia and Les Coloures, while
the similarly dark and arty Mleczarnia down the road
(ul. Meiselsa) can boast a superb toilet that doubles as
a time portal to the 1920s. Full of shambolic charm, the
square is (sadly?) beginning to diversify to a degree with
glammy pre-club places like Le Scandale and bilenia
paving the way for more recent openings like Taawa - the
first danceclub to open on Plac Nowy.
Sadly plans are now afoot to renovate this historic square
with the controversial winning design already receiving a
rubber-stamp. Shockingly, the numerous market stalls
which have been a part of Plac Nowy since its beginnings
would disappear, a permanent stage would be installed at
one side and parking on the square would be prevented.
While the city has scored successes with similar revitalisation projects lately, theres nothing flaccid about the fizz of
Plac Nowy and were encouraged to hear that a lack of funds
has delayed the start of the project indefinitely. Still, soak
up the bohemian atmosphere of the area now before its
all swanky cocktail bars and stupefying street performers.
Take time out to explore the citys two most important

synagogues - the Old Synagogue and Remuh Synagogue
- before veering to the right and onto ulica Jzefa. The street
actually takes its name not after Joseph of Bible fame, but the
Habsburg Emperor Joseph II who stayed on this street while
touring his nearly conquered territories. Find the High Synagogue at number 38, so called because the prayer room was
located on the first floor. Looted during WWII the synagogue
housed the Historic Monuments Preservation Studio in the
post-war years, only returning to its intended function in the
1990s. Today it houses the Austeria bookshop and a small
Plac Nowy
Skaka
121
122
KAZIMIERZ
Kazimierz Churches
KAZIMIERZ
Kazimierz Galleries
Centre for Jewish Culture (Centrum Kultury
ydowskiej) D-6, ul. Meiselsa 17, tel. (+48) 12 430 64 52,
www.judaica.pl. Changing exhibitions of contemporary Jewish
art. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Admission free.
Olympia Galeria D-6, ul. Jzefa 18, tel. (+48) 603 22

30 08, www.olympiagaleria.pl. Brimming with interesting
contemporary art. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 15:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission free.
Kazimierz Museums & Synagogues

City Engineering Museum (Muzeum Inynierii
Miejskiej) E-7, ul. w. Wawrzyca 15, tel. (+48) 12 421
Corpus Christi Church (Koci Boego Ciaa)

D/E-6/7, ul. Boego Ciaa 26, www.bozecialo.net.
This massive brick beauty from the 14th century takes
up two entire blocks in Kazimierz, making it one of the
citys largest holy sites. A three-naver in the Gothic style,
the pulpit features a golden boat (with oars and a mast
even) being held aloft by two mermaids. And though there
are few things we like more than mermaids, the crowning
glory has to be the towering golden altarpiece. According to legend, a robber who had stolen a precious relic
from another church repented on this spot, abandoning
the reliquary. The priests in pursuit saw a strange light
emanating from the ground and discovering their sacred
prize, founded a church here in recognition of the miracle.
Q Open 08:30- 12:00, 13:00-19:00, Sun 06:30-20:00.
Not visiting during mass please.
Skaka (Koci Paulinw, Pauline Church)

C-7, West end of ul. Skaeczna, tel. (+48) 12 421
72 44, www.skalka.paulini.pl. Commonly referred to
as Skaka, this gorgeous riverside sanctuary is one of
the most important religious sites in Krakw, with a fair
share of history. In 1079, King Bolesaw the Bold accused
the bishop of Krakw, Stanisaw Szczepaski, of treason.
According to legend, the bishop was beheaded with the
sword seen next to the altar and then his body was
chopped into pieces on a tree stump. After the murder,
the royal family fell under a curse. To appease the spirit
of the wronged bishop, the family built the Pauline Church
and made regular pilgrimages there to atone for the
murder. Szczepaski was canonised in 1253. The Skaka
crypt is packed tight with important Poles including
composer Karol Szymanowski, writer Czesaw Miosz and
painters Stanisaw Wyspiaski and Jacek Malczewski. Q
During winter the church and crypt is closed to tourists,
except for Sundays 06:30-18:00. However access to the
site can be gained between 06:30-18:00 the rest of the
week if youre able to flag a monk down and ask politely.
No visiting during mass please.
St. Catherines (Koci w. Katarzyny) D-7, ul.

Augustiaska 7 (entrance from ul. Skaeczna), tel.
(+48) 12 430 62 42, www.parafia-kazimierz.augustianie.pl. Respected as one of the most beautiful Gothic
churches in Krakw. Most of its furnishings were lost in the
19th century though the Baroque high altar from 1634 survives. The cloister built in the time of Kazimierz the Great and
decorated with Gothic murals and 17th century paintings is
worth seeing, as is the south porch decorated with stonework
and tracery. Q Open during mass only.
12 42, www.mimk.com.pl. Evidence that Polish museums

are finally catching up with the modern world, this charming
museum inside an old tram depot features five separate exhibitions. The first three deal with the history of public transport in
Krakw and the development of the Polish automotive industry
through a hangar full of old tram cars and trolleys and a large
collection of unique wheeled vehicles, the fourth explores the
history of printing in Krakw from the 15th to 20th centuries,
while the fifth - called Ogrdek Nowych Swek (The Garden
of New Words) - is great for children between the ages of 3-5,
allowing them to learn the meaning of new words such as gravity, but only open in nice weather. Ideal for families and more
fun than it sounds, the science exhibit will hold kids interest
long enough for Dad to look at car engines, while Mom dreams
of escaping on that motorbike. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00. Closed
Mon. Admission 8/5.5z, family ticket 24z. Y
Ethnographical Museum (Muzeum Etnograficzne)

D-7, Pl. Wolnica 1, tel. (+48) 12 430 55 63, www.etnomuzeum.eu. Founded in 1911 by the teacher and folklore
enthusiast Seweryn Udziela (1857-1937) and located inside
Kazimierzs former Town Hall, this cultural highlight usually gets
overlooked by tourists - wrongfully so. Theres not enough space
here to wax lyrical about the delights inside, including beautiful
recreations of 19th-century peasant houses, folk costumes,
some extraordinary examples of the so-called Nativity Cribs, the
breathtaking top floor collection of folk art and two reproduced
folk rooms - Izba Podhalaska and Izba Krakowska. With many of
the exhibits explained in good English, all we need say is it does a
highly commendable job of promoting and explaining Polish folk
culture, and cant come recommended enough. A separate gallery
for changing exhibits can be found nearby at ul. Krakowska 46.
QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Thu 11:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 15:00.
Closed Mon. Admission 9/5z, Sun free for permanent exhibitions.
Galicia Jewish Museum (ydowskie Muzeum

Galicja) E-6, ul. Dajwr 18, tel. (+48) 12 421 68 42,
www.galiciajewishmuseum.org. The brainchild of awardwinning photo-journalist Chris Schwarz, The Galicia Jewish
Museum is comprised of some 135 photographs aimed at
keeping alive the memory of Jewish life in the south of Poland
in the aftermath of the Holocaust. Schwarzs images of forgotten cemeteries, derelict synagogues and death camps prove
haunting and sober viewing, and deserve to be an essential part
of any Kazimierz tour. Though his exhibition serves as the focal
point, the converted warehouse also houses temporary exhibits,
a caf, information point and a bookstore selling a range of titles
of Jewish interest. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Admission 15/8z,
family ticket 30z. Children under 7 free. Guided tour for groups
of over 10 people cost 13.50/6z per person. [From January
reduced fares increase to 10z for individuals, 8z for those in
guided grups.] Tours in English, French and German available.
French and German require prior booking. A guide is also available for individual tours for 60-100z depending on tour time. Y
Isaacs Synagogue (Synagoga Izaaka) E-6, ul. Kupa

18, tel. (+48) 12 430 22 22, www.chabadkrakow.pl.
Isaacs Synagogue, built in the early Judaic-Baroque style, was
opened in 1644, and was a gift to the city from a wealthy Jew,
Izaak Jakubowicz. It is perhaps the most strikingly beautiful of
the Kazimierz synagogues, all arabesques and squiggles yet
retaining a sober linearity, especially within. There is much to
admire, not least the fragments of original wall scriptures. Rabbi
Eliezer Gurary runs the place with a smile and is usually on hand
to provide information to all comers. A shop inside sells kosher
food, wine and sweets, and other items. Q Open from 09:00 till
dusk, Fri 09:00-15:00. Closed Sat. Admission 5/3z.
New Jewish Cemetery E-6, ul. Miodowa 55. This

cemetery was established in 1800 and was the burial ground
for many of Krakws distinguished Jews in the 19th and early
20th centuries. Its story takes on a darker aspect with the
decimation of the Jewish population between 1939 and 1945.
Many of the tombstones are actually no more than memorials
to entire families that were killed in the Holocaust, which now
lie in overgrown clusters. The rejuvenation of Kazimierz has not
fully penetrated the walls of the New Cemetery, but there are
many newly-lit candles burning over the headstones. QOpen
09:00 - 16:00, Fri 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat.
Old Synagogue (Stara Synagoga) E-6, ul. Szeroka
24, tel. (+48) 12 422 09 62, www.mhk.pl. Built on the
cusp of the 15th and 16th centuries, the Old Synagogue
serves as the oldest surviving example of Jewish religious
architecture in Poland and is home to a fine series of exhibits
that showcase the history and traditions of Polish Judaism. It
is no longer a working synagogue. The English explanations
assume no great depth of knowledge on the readers part
and are therefore a perfect primer on the subject. In the
midst of all the glass cases stands the bimah enclosed in an
elaborate, wrought iron balustrade. There are also temporary
exhibitions held from time to time particularly during the citys
Jewish festival held towards the end of June. The bookshop
sells a fine selection of works related to Jewish Krakw,
in a number of languages. Q Open 09:00-16:00, Mon
10:00-14:00, Fri 10:00-17:00. Closed Tue. Last entrance
30 minutes before closing. Admission 8/6z, Mon free. Y
Remuh Synagogue & Cemetery (Synagoga Remuh

z Cmentarzem) E-6, ul. Szeroka 40, tel. (+48) 12 429
57 35. The smallest but most active synagogue in Kazimierz,
dating from 1553. If you enter quietly, you may even be afforded
a glimpse of a service. You can stroll through the cemetery which
was in use until 1800. This holy burial ground was spared by the
vandalism of the Nazis because many of the gravestones had
been buried to avoid desecration during the 19th century occupation of Krakw by Austrian forces. Most famous is the tomb
of the 16th century Rabbi Moses Isserles, better known as the
Remuh. Beside that lies the oldest tomb in the cemetery commemorating his wife, Golda Auerbuch. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00,
Fri 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat. Admission 5/2z.
Temple Synagogue (Synagoga Tempel) D-6, ul.

Miodowa 24, tel. (+48) 12 429 57 35. Kazimierzs newest
synagogue dates back to 1862, with several later expansions,
the most recent of which was in 1924. Under Nazi occupation
the building was used as a warehouse and stables, yet survived the war and regular services were even held here until
1968, before stopping completely a decade later. Gorgeously
restored today, the gilded woodwork within now plays host to
many concerts and occasional religious ceremonies, particularly during the annual Jewish Festival of Culture. Small, almost
complete renovations to the womens section may make it off
limits, but the rest of the site is open. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00,
Fri 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat. Admission 5/2z.
Useful Contacts
Jarden E-6, ul. Szeroka 2, tel. (+48) 12 421 71 66,
www.jarden.pl. Jewish bookshop that also arranges
guided Schindlers List tours and trips to AuschwitzBirkenau. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.
Jewish Community (Gmina Wyznaniowa
ydowska) D-7, ul. Skawiska 2, tel. (+48) 12 429
57 35, www.krakow.jewish.org.pl. It has around 160
members and organises events and gatherings for the Jewish
community in Krakw. QOpen 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
J ew i s h C o m m u n i t y C e n t r e (C e n t r u m
Spoecznoci ydowskiej w Krakowie) D-6, ul.

Miodowa 24, tel. (+48) 12 370 57 70, www.jcckrakow.
org. The headquarters of Krakws surviving and strengthening Jewish community. JCC organises numerous events
(check website for calendar) and exhibits, arranges tours,
and is home to a large library of Jewish related materials.
QOpen 10:00 - 20:30, Fri 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Judaica Foundation D-6, ul. Meiselsa 17, tel.
(+48) 12 430 64 49, www.judaica.pl. This civic and
cultural centre hosts lectures and exhibits reflecting
Jewish life past and present, and includes a cafe with a
great little rooftop terrace - one of Kazimierzs best-kept
secrets. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00.
Tourist Information D-6, ul. Jzefa 7, tel. (+48)
12 422 04 71, www.infokrakow.pl. Information on
what to see and whats going on in Kazimierz. QOpen
09:00 - 17:00.
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PODGRZE
Krakus Mound
Krakus Mound (Kopiec Krakusa) K-5,
above ul. Maryewskiego. The oldest structure in Krakw, Krakus
Mound is one of two
prehistoric monumental
mounds in the city and
is also its highest point,
providing incredible panoramic views from its worn summit. Sixteen metres high, sixty metres wide at the base
and eight metres wide at the top, Kopiec Krakusa stands
in scruffy contrast to the manicured modern mounds
elsewhere in the city, with a muddy path winding around
to a bald peak. The site of pagan ritual for centuries,
the mound retains an ancient, evocative atmosphere
amplified by the surroundings of the cliffs of Krzemionki,
the green rolling fields of Paszw, the grim Liban quarry
and the Podgrze cemetery. With incredible views of the
city, Krakus Mound lies at the centre of one of Krakws
least explored and most captivating areas and should be
visited by anyone looking to take a rewarding detour from
the beaten path. It can be approached most easily from
the major intersection of al. Powstacw Wielopolskich
and ul. Wielicka via ul. Robotnicza to the steps of al. Pod
Kopcem (K-5), or by following ul. Dembowskiego (J-5) to
the pedestrian bridge over al. Powstacw Wielopolskich
to the base of the mound.
The result of great human effort and innovative engineering, Krakus Mound has long been a source of legend and
mystery. Connected with the popular story of Krakws
mythical founder, King Krak or Krakus, the mound is said
to have been constructed in honour of his death when
noblemen and peasants filled their sleeves with sand and
dirt, bringing it to this site in order to create an artificial
mountain that would rule over the rest of the landscape.
In the interwar period, extensive archaeological studies
were undertaken to try to date the mound and verify if
there was truth to the legend that Krak was buried beneath it. Though much about the ingenuity of the mounds
prehistoric engineers was revealed, no trace of a grave
was found, however excavations were not completely
comprehensive. A bronze belt was unearthed in the
lower part of the mound and dated to the 8th century,
and there is general agreement today that the mound
was created by a Slavonic colony sometime between the
latter half of the 7th century and the early 10th century,
though other hypotheses credit the structure to the
Celts. Originally there were four smaller mounds around
the base of Kraks mound, however these were levelled
in the mid-19th century during the construction of the
citys first fortress which surrounded the area with a wall
embankment and a moat (later levelled in 1954). The
location of the Krakus Mound and the Wanda Mound in
Mogia (T-4) - the citys other, lesser prehistoric earthwork - hardly seems accidental. In addition to being an
ideal vantage point over the surrounding valleys, when
standing on the Krakus Mound at dawn on June 20th or
21st the sun can be seen rising directly behind Wandas
Mound; conversely, standing on Wandas Mound at dusk,
the sun sets in a straight line behind Kraks Mound. The
legend of Kraks mound inspired the modern creation
of burial mounds for Kociuszko and Pisudski in Las
Wolski and today they remain one of Polands greatest
archaeological mysteries.
PODGRZE
When Spielberg came to Krakw to produce his awardwinning film Schindlers List, the result was a fast and
far-reaching revitalisation of Kazimierz, Krakws former
Jewish district. Ironically, however, it didnt reach across
the river to Podgrze, despite the fact most of the films
historic events took place there, as did much of the filming. As Kazimierz became super-saturated with tourists
and bars, predictions were that Podgrze would emerge
as Krakws next hip bohemian district; however aside
from a small stable of rogue cafes, things were slow to
develop and for a long time getting off the beaten path
in Krakw was as easy as crossing the river to Podgrze.
However, that is all beginning to change with the recent
opening of Schindlers Factory and a new pedestrian
bridge that will literally create a direct artery of tourist
traffic into the district.
A district rich in natural beauty, tragic history and unusual attractions, the first signs of settlement in Podgrze date from
over ten thousand years ago, though the Swedish invasion in
the 17th century saw much of Podgrze levelled. Awarded the
rights of a free city in 1784 by the Austrian Emperor Joseph
II, the town was eventually incorporated as Krakws fourth
district in 1915, and the following decades saw its aggressive
development; quarries and brickworks were constructed, and
a string of military forts added, of which Fort Benedict (K-5)
is the only still standing. An indication of Podgrzes age is
Krakus Mound (K-5), excavations of which have dated it to
the Iron Age. However, the trespasses of more recent history are what people most associate with the district. WWII
saw the ghetto in Podgrze become the temporary home of
Krakows Jews, the majority of whom were murdered there,
in the nearby Paszw camp or at Auschwitz Birkenau.
The opening of the Schindlers Factory Museum (K-4,
Lipowa 4) has, in addition to helping the city bury the ghosts
of the Holocaust, endorsed Podgrzes status as a bona fide
tourist destination.
Churches
St. Benedicts K-5, Lasota Hill. Take any of the dark,
daunting trails off ul. Rkawka into the wooded limestone
cliffs of Krzemionki to discover one of Krakws oldest,
smallest and most mysterious churches in the clearing
next to the St. Benedict Fort. The date of the present
structure has been hard to determine, but the curious site
certainly dates back to the 11th century and a leading
theory attributes it to the Benedictine monks of Tyniec.
Saved from destruction and dereliction by a local priest
the tiny, cramped interior - consisting of only a small nave
and chancel with a painting of St. Benedict over the pulpit
- has been restored, but can only be accessed once a year:
ironically, during the pagan Rkawka festival held the first
Tuesday after Easter.
St. Josephs J-5, ul. Zamojskiego 2, tel. (+48) 12
656 17 56, www.jozef.diecezja.pl. Presiding over
the heart of historic Podgrze on the south side of
the districts main square, this unmissable neo-gothic
juggernaut was built between 1905-09 on the design
o f Jan Sas-Zu br z ycki. Dominated by an 80 m etre
clock tower, elaborate masonry dressing, gargoyles
and sculptures of saints, St. Josephs slender, yet
imposing brick facade rates among the most beautiful
in Krakw and is gorgeously illuminated at night. The
interior is no less beauti ful and visitors should also
note the abandoned 1832 bel fr y that stands on a
rocky outcropping behind the church - all that remains
of the original temple, dismantled due to design flaws.
Q Open during mass only.
Museums
Liban Quarry
Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCAK Muzeum

Sztuki Wspczesnej) K-4, ul. Lipowa 4, tel. (+48)
12 263 40 00, www.mocak.pl. Opened on May 20th
2011, Krakows Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCAK)
does not disappoint, receiving rave reviews from all who
have been thus far. Tucked behind Schindlers Factory, the
building alone will impress with its avant-garde styling and
ultra-modern layout. The museum boasts a large and fine
permanent collection of modern art highlighting both Polish
and international artists, plus the Mieczysaw Porbski
Library and its collection of works on art theory and history.
Several provocative temporary exhibitions are ever-changing:
check their website for details. Despite the relatively late
closing hour (19:00), make sure to leave yourself plenty of
time to enjoy all the museum has to offer. QOpen 11:00 19:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance one hour before closing.
Admission 10/5z, family ticket 20z. Tue free.
Pharmacy Under the Eagle (Apteka Pod Orem) J-4,

Pl. Bohaterw Getta 18, tel. (+48) 12 656 56 25, www.
mhk.pl. When the Podgrze disctrict became the new Jewish
ghetto under the Nazi occupation, the owner of this pharmacy,
Tadeusz Pankiewicz, decided to stay on in Podgrze and do
all he could for the 15,000 Jews living at this last stop on the
genocide route. The only Poles allowed to live and work in the
Jewish ghetto, Pankiewicz and his staff risked their lives in
many clandestine operations and he was later recognised as
one of the Righteous Among the Nations. Today, his pharmacy
has been converted to a small museum, which heartrenderingly portrays life in the ghetto. Q Open 09:00-16:00, Mon
10:00-14:00, Fri 10:00-17:00. Closed Sun. Closed every first
Tuesday of the month. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 6/5z, Mon free. Y
Places of Interest
Bednarski Park J-5, Entrances from ul. Parkowa and
ul. Zamojskiego. Opened with great fanfare at the end of
the 19th century, the parks founder Wojciech Bednarski was
reportedly carried around like a winning quarterback while
newspapers from as far away as St. Petersburg applauded
the parks establishment. Though the park itself doesnt offer
much more than a partially paved path to walk on, this is one
of the most beautiful, captivating natural spaces in Krakw
with limestone cliffs, over one hundred different species of
tree and the remains of an 18th century fortification. Covering
eight and half hectares, Bednarski Park is lush and wild with
trails winding everywhere, in turns shadowy and chimerical,
or open with fine overviews of the city from its various ridges.
Fort Benedict K-5, Lasota Hill. The only surviving
fortress of three that were built in Podgrze in the mid-19th
century to protect the Vistula river and the road to Lww,
Fort Benedict is one of only a few citadels of the Maximillion
Tower type left anywhere. An impressive two-storey brick
artillery tower in the shape of a sixteen-sided polygon with
a round interior yard, the fort has a total surface area of
1500 square metres. Atop the Krzemionki cliffs on Lasota
Hill, it takes its name from nearby St. Benedicts church.
The fortress quickly lost its usefulness in the 1890s and
has since been used as Austrian military barracks and was
even converted into apartments in the 1950s, though today
it lies in general dereliction, filled with abandonned furniture
and building materials. Numerous plans have been put
forth for converting it into a cultural space, but it remains
impenetrable to tourists at the moment, adding to the
scenery and mystique of one of Krakws most surprising
and strange corners.
Allie_Caulfield
Liban Quarry J/K-5, ul. Za Torem. One of the creepiest, most forgotten places in Krakw, the Liban Quarry
should first and foremost be a place of remembrance
for the victims of the Nazi labour camp that operated
here during Krakws WWII occupation. That said, the
sight lies in overgrown abandon today, slowly becoming
a nature sanctuary for waterfowl, birds of prey, pheasants and other various creatures (weve even seen an
unattended horse grazing here) as the city seems to
have forgotten it completely. Incredible limestone cliffs,
ponds and dense vegetation are as breath-taking as the
rusting refinery equipment, fenceposts, gravestones and
tangles of barbed wire that can still be found amongst
the brush here.
The limestone company Liban and Ehrenpreis, run by
two well-known Jewish industrial families from Podgrze,
established a quarry here in 1873. By the end of the 19th
century a complex of buildings was established within
the quarry and a railway line laid as the families enjoyed
an excellent reputation locally and abroad. However,
during Nazi occupation, Liban was set-up as a cruel
penal camp where 800 young Poles were kept prisoner
from 1942 to 1944 performing forced labour. A small,
discreet, overgrown and easily overlooked memorial for
21 inmates executed during the liquidation of the camp
lies beside the cliffside at the Za Torem end of the site.
In 1993 Steven Spielberg used Liban as the set of all
the scenes from Schindlers List that take place in the
Paszw concentration camp. Not wanting to use the
nearby site of the camp itself out of respect, it must have
taken little imagination on his part to settle upon Liban.
During filming 34 barracks and watchtowers were set-up
around the quarry, and though most of the set was subsequently removed, some traces remain confusingly mixed
with the genuine historical leftovers from the war, making
it unclear just how uncomfortable you should feel as you
walk amongst the many gallows-like fenceposts strung
with barbed wire and rusty machinery. Certainly, the most
disturbing site is the central pathway paved with Jewish
headstones, which we can put you at ease by assuring
you is not genuine. An incredibly evocative, yet peaceful
and beautiful site, Liban allows you to explore Krakws
World War II history on your own terms, interpreting it as
you like without the hand-holding of history books or tourist
bureaus. Enter the quarry at your own risk by following a
trail from Kraks Mound toward Podgrze cemetery along
the rim of and into the quarry, or try your luck from ul. Za
Torem; though there is nothing unlawful about being in the
quarry, city employees of the Housing Office buildings at
the quarrys entrance have been known to aggravatedly
deny entry or ask people to leave.
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126
OSKAR SCHINDLER
OSKAR SCHINDLER
Post War
Schindlers Factory
Schindlers Factory (Fabryka Schindlera)
K- 4, ul. Lipowa 4, tel. (+48) 12 257 10 17,
www.mhk.pl. After years of preparation, the Oskar
Schindler Enamelled Goods Factory (to give it its full
name) has finally re-opened to the public as a worldclass museum. The story of Oskar Schindler and his
employees is one which has been well-known since
the book and film by Thomas Keneally and Steven
Spielberg (whose film Schindlers List was shot almost entirely in Krakw). The discussions on whether
to open and how to present the story in a museum
lasted many years and it began to look like the project
would never come to fruition. The Historical Museum
of the City of Krakow did eventually manage to secure
the derelict property which once housed Schindlers
factory and the relevant permissions with the new
museum opened on June 10th, 2010.
While the story of Oskar Schindler and his workers is now
covered in detail on the original site, the new museum
casts the city of Krakw in the main role of its permanent exhibition titled, Krakw During Nazi Occupation
1939-1945. Individual histories of Krakws wartime
inhabitants guide visitors through the exhibit which covers the war of 1939, Krakws role as the seat of the
General Government, everyday life under occupation, the
fate of the Jews and the citys underground resistance
using vast archival documents, photos, radio and film
recordings, period artefacts and dynamic multimedia installations. A separate section of the factory is reserved
for film screenings, lectures and other cultural events,
while a controversial contemporary art museum under
separate ownership on the same site finally opened in
spring 2011.
The development of the factory into a world-class educational and cultural site is great news not only for tourists,
but also for Podgrze and the healing process of the city
itself as it reconciles one of the most painful chapters of
its history. A must-visit, this is one of the most fascinating
museums in the entire country and with that in mind we
recommend that you reserve at least two hours if you
want to see everything. Note that visiting groups need
to book in advance using the museum website. Q Open
10:00 - 18:00, Mon 10:00 - 14:00. Closed the first Monday of every month. Last entrance 90 minutes before
closing. Admission 15/13z. Guided tours in English for
groups of over 15 people, 16z per person. Mon free for
permanent exhibitions.
Noaa Wikipedia
The Monster - Amon Goeth
Following the war he emigrated

to Argentina with his wi fe to
settle as a farmer, though by
1957 he was declared bankrupt
and returned to Germany alone.
Financial woes were to blight him
for the rest of his life. Regarded
as a traitor to the fatherland he
was cold shouldered by Germans
and more business ventures fell
by the wayside. By the time of
his death in 1974 he was fully dependent on the charity of
those he had saved. Buried in Jerusalem, his acts of courage
have been honoured by Yad Vashem as one of the Righteous
Amongst Nations. Schindler sights in Krakw include the
house he lived in at ul. Starszewskiego 7 where he lived
before moving permanently into his factory at ul. Lipowa
4. After a long wait, the factory is now open as a museum.
Oskar Schindler (on left) at his factory - Courtesy of USHMM
Schindlers Krakow
Oskar Schindler
Kazimierz, and the courtyard on Jzefa 12 (D-6) should be the

start of any Schindler/Keneally/Spielberg inspired tour, and
this is where numerous scenes in Spielbergs film were shot.
Immortalised by Thomas Keneallys book Schindlers Ark,

and then later in the Spielberg epic Schindlers List, Oskar
Schindler is a name synonymous with Krakw. A harddrinking, profiteering playboy, Schindler does not fit the
standard mould for a hero, though neither was he the typical
Nazi. Credited with saving 1,200 Jews his actions continue
to serve as an example and inspiration.
Early Years
Born on April 28, 1908 in what is now the town of Svitavy in
the Czech Republic, Schindler enjoyed a privileged upbringing
and was childhood friends with the Jewish family residing next
door. The 1930s economic crisis saw his familys firm slide
into bankruptcy, and like so many disaffected Germans he
signed up with the Nazi party.
In Krakow
Hot on the heels of the invading German army Schindler found
himself arriving in Krakw in 1939 where he took charge of a
formerly Jewish-owned enamel factory. Motivated by greed
he principally employed cut-price Jewish labour, and involved
himself in the thriving black market. Living a care-free, lavish lifestyle his world and motives appear to have changed
after witnessing the emptying of the Podgrze Ghetto. Both
Keneally and Spielberg pay particular importance to his
fascination with the plight of a small girl dressed in a red
cape and Schindler would later claim, Beyond this day, no
thinking person could fail to see what would happen. I was
now resolved to do everything in my power to defeat the
system. He arranged for workers housed in the notorious
Paszw camp to be moved to his factory, shielding them time
and time again from deportation and death through bribery
and cunning. With the war coming to a close, and his Jews
facing the prospect of death marches and gas chambers, he
miraculously managed to persuade the Nazi authorities to
relocate his factory and his workers to Brunlitz (a sub-camp
of Gross-Rosen) in 1944. Estimates suggest he spent four
million marks during the war on protecting his workers, with
his wife even selling her jewellery so as to provide funds for
medicine and food. Moreover, in the seven months he spent
as director of a shell factory in Brunlitz, not one working shell
left the production line.
On March 21, 1941, the entire Jewish population residing in

Kazimierz was marched across the Powstancw lskich
bridge and crammed into what was to become known as the
Podgrze Ghetto. Traces of the Ghetto still exist, including a
stretch of the wall built by the Nazis and ironically resembling
Jewish gravestones on ul. Lwowska (K-4). At the end of the
street, head up the path on the corner of ulica Limanowskiego
and ulica Rekawka to reach the Austro-Hungarian fort, around
the back of which is the plaque in memory of the little girl
who inspired Oskar Schindler to acts of altruistic courage.
When the ghetto was liquidated on March 14, 1943, most of
the Jewish residents faced death either in the gas chambers
of Birkenau, or in the nearby work quarries in Paszw and
Liban (J/K-5); now abandoned, both sites can be visited by
the curious and intrepid. Few traces remain of the Paszw
camp, aside from some rusting fences and mineshafts nowadays filled with litter and the occasional rambling vagrant.
The lonely dipping grass plains are well worth a visit and
dominated by a huge monument raised in 1964.
Today the Pharmacy Under the Eagle (J-4, Pl. Bohaterw
Getta 18) pays testament to the victims of the Holocaust
in a small museum, but the Schindlers Factory Museum
(K-4, Lipowa 4) is the first to properly confront and explore
Krakws World War II history.
So what of the monster

of the story, Amon Goeth.
Born in Vienna, 1908,
our arch-villain joined the
Nazi party in 1932, before
progressing to the ranks
of the Gestapo in 1940.
Originally sent to Germanoccupied Lublin, east Poland, Goeth found a liking for
slaughter during the liquidation of the Lublin Ghetto, and
so impressed his seniors with his methods that he was
promoted to camp commandant of the Paszw camp
in Krakw in 1943. In the same year he supervised the
brutal clearing of the Krakw ghetto in Podgrze, as well
as the ghetto found in Tarnw.
Having found a fondness for accepting bribes during his
stint in Lublin he used his position in charge of liquidizing
ghettos to steal property and valuables confiscated from
Jews. Often found parading around on a white charger he
was notorious for his corrupt nature, heavy drinking and
bouts of extreme violence. Several scenes in Spielbergs
masterpiece never actually occurred however - he never
murdered his stable boy (who survived the war), nor was
he able to take pot shots at prisoners from his balcony,
seeing that his house backed directly onto a hill.
However this should not be taken as a sign of a benign
human being. In the words of Poldek Pfefferberg, when
you saw Goeth, you saw death. Unable to shoot at prisoners from his balcony, he saved that dubious pleasure
to taking crack shots from high on a hill.
In 1944 he was relieved of his position and charged with
theft of Reich property, though Germanys looming military
collapse meant he was never brought to tribunal. Diagnosed
with diabetes and mental illness by SS doctors he spent the
remainder of the war in a sanatorium and was arrested by
American troops in 1945. Charged with the murder of 2,000
Jews during the evacuation of the Podgrze ghetto, and
8,000 deaths during his time in Plaszw he was sentenced
to death and hanged in Krakw in 1946.
Goeths mistress, Ruth-Irene Kalder remained loyal to him in
death, keeping a photograph of him by her bedside until she
died. Giving an interview in 1983 she declared him a charming
man before choosing to commit suicide the following day.
Goeths crumbling villa, the only remaining building of the
Plaszow concentration camp, still stands and can be seen
at ul. Heltmana 22 (just off the edge of our map in L-5 if you
carry on along ul. Wielicka), while down the road the grey
house on ul. Jerozolimska 3 was once home to a detachment of SS officers as well as a basement torture chamber. The large field on the hill behind Goeths villa formed
the camp; all buildings were destroyed by the Nazis at the
end of the war. A number of monuments commemorate
those who died here - one stands along the path behind
the villa, the others can be found on the hilltop, a 10-minute
walk up the path. The large official stone memorial on the
highest point is accompanied by two small stones, and
overlooks a geological reservation, with remains dating
back to Jurassic times, to the west. 200m east of the official monument stands a large wooden cross. No remains
of the camp can be discerned, and the hill is now simply
an ersatz park for many local residents.
Courtesy of History Museum of Krakw
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NOWA HUTA
Roses Avenue (Aleja R)

The bastard child of a devastated post WWII Poland, the huge
Socialist Realist suburb of Nowa Huta is the direct antithesis
of everything cuddly Krakw is. Gargoyles and tourists? Not
here. The Orwellian settlement of Nowa Huta is one of only
two entirely pre-planned socialist realist cities ever built (the
other being Magnitogorsk in Russias Ural Mountains), and
one of the finest examples of deliberate social engineering
in the world.
Funded by the Soviet Union, Nowa Huta swallowed up a huge
swathe of ideal agricultural land, and the ancient village of
Kocielniki (as well as parts of Mogia and Krzesawice) in
an attempt to create an in-yer-face proletarian opponent
to intellectual, artsy-fartsy, fairytale Krakw. The decision
to build NH was rubber stamped on May 17, 1947 and over
the next few years construction of a model city for 100,000
people sprung up at breakneck speed. One man, Piotr
Oaski, was publicly credited with laying a stupendous
33,000 bricks in one single day. Built to impress, Nowa Huta
featured wide, tree-lined avenues, parks, lakes and the officially sanctioned architectural style of the time - Socialist
Realism. Nowa Hutas architects strove to construct the ideal
city, with ironic inspiration coming from the neighbourhood
blocks built in 1920s New York (that despicable western
metropolis). Careful planning was key, and the suburb was
designed with efficient mutual control in mind: wide streets
would prevent the spread of fire and the profusion of trees
would easily soak up a nuclear blast, while the layout was
such that the city could quickly be turned into a fortress if it
came under attack.
NOWA HUTA
What To See
Churches
Should you take that step, do so onto the platform of Plac

Centralny and find yourself in the central nervous system
of Nowa Huta. Dating from 1949, the Central Square is a
masterpiece of Soviet social planning, and the brainchild of
architect Tadeusz Ptaszycki. In another twist of irony, this
Soviet landmark which once bore Stalins name was officially
redesignated Ronald Reagan Square in 2004, though speak
to any local and youll still find it referred to as Pl. Centralny.
While this square serves as the focal point for visitors, its
the Steelworks that Nowa Huta is known for, not to mention
named after. Poland was in the process of rebuilding itself
from near complete destruction after WWII, and steel was
of vital importance. Work began in April 1950, and by 1954
the first blast furnace was in operation. Employing some
40,000 people in its heyday the Steelworks - named for a
time after Lenin - were capable of producing seven million
tonnes of steel annually, and at one time boasted the largest
blast furnace in Europe. Such was its reputation that Fidel
Castro chose to visit the Steelworks rather than Krakws
Rynek on one state visit to Poland.
Church of St. Bartholomew R-5, ul. Klasztorna
Nowa Huta may have been designed to be a socialist

showcase city, but the reality was far different. It became a
hotbed of anticommunist activity, with early displays of dissent traced back to the struggle for permission to build the
citys first church, and though it took 28 years, The Lords
Ark (Koci Arka Pana) was finally consecrated in 1977. Not
surprisingly many of Nowa Hutas political protestors could be
found during the day on the factory floor, and the Steelworks
were to play a huge part in the Solidarity strikes of the early
1980s. Identified as an anti-establishment stronghold, the
Steelworks were placed under military control during the period of martial law, and today a remembrance room inside the
factory honours those workers who put their lives on the line.
However, while Nowa Huta is the product of the last half century, a true tour of the area reveals a number of treasures of
much older historical value. The most epitomising example of a
pre-steel age in the area has to be Wandas Mound - a mysterious prehistoric earthwork that proves the areas settlement
predates that of Krakws Old Town. The quiet communities
of Krzesawice and Mogia each hide pristine examples of
ancient Polish sacral architecture in the wooden churches
of St. John the Baptist and St. Bartholomew. Artist Jan
Matejko enjoyed Krzesawice so much he used it as an artist retreat as his preserved period manor house evidences.
Mogia meanwhile harbours one of the most cherished religious sites in Maopolska in the Cistercian Monastery and
its morbidly miraculous cross. If youve more time to explore,
a walking or cycling tour of Mogias small backroads is akin
to an open-air ethnographic museum, just watch out for the
german shepherds behind every garden fence.
Somewhat sadly perhaps, the Utopian dream that was

Nowa Huta was never fully realized. However what was
completed is very much worth the trip for intrepid tourists
willing to teleport themselves into a completely different
reality far from the cobbled kitsch of Krakw; its as easy
as a tramride.
Getting There
Getting to NH is a cinch thanks to a well-designed tram
network. Trams 4 or 15 from Dworzec Gwny (the train
station stop), or tram 22 from Starowilna all go straight
to Plac Centralny.
11, tel. (+48) 12 644 23 31, www.mogila.cystersi.

pl. Founded by Krakw bishop Iwo Odrow who brought
the Cistercians to Mogia from Silesia in 1222, the
present structure of this outstanding wooden church
dates from 1466. As the Church of St. Wenceslas
across the street was part of a monastic complex,
St. Batholomews was erected to accommodate the
Catholic layman, one of whom - master carpenter Maciej
Mczka - put his name and completion date on the door
after building this enduring wooden treasure. Exceptional for its three aisles - a rarity in wooden church
architecture - the 18th century bel fry and beauti ful
domed entrance gate have also been preserved. Mogia
is easily accessed from Plac Centralny via trams 15
and 17; get off at the Klasztorna stop and its a short
walk south. Q Open during mass only, but guides can
be arranged in advance.
Church of St. John the Baptist S-2, ul. Wakowicza 21, tel.
(+48) 12 642 15 58. Next door
to Matejkos manor house, this is
one of two wooden churches in
the area. Built between 1633 and
1648 in the village of Jaworniki in
the mountains on Polands eastern
border with Ukraine, when the church
was threatened by demolition in the
1980s local authorities surprisingly
approved its transfer to Krzesawice as part of a planned
open-air folk architecture museum which never came to
be. A tower was added and the historic monument took on
new life as a place of worship, which continues today with
regular services held in the small, single-aisle interior. Q
Open by prior arrangement.
The Cistercian Monastery R-5, ul. Klasztorna 11,

tel. (+48) 12 644 23 31, www.mogila.cystersi.pl.
Located in what remains of the sleepy village of Mogia
that Nowa Huta was plunked down upon, the ancient
Cistercian Monastery, with its two adjoining churches,
was the closest place of worship to Plac Centralny until
Arka Pana Church (N-1) was finally consecrated in 1977.
The vast and splendid Church of St. Wenceslas and the
adjoining Cistercian cloister, which date way, way back
to 1266, are recognised as among the most important
religious buildings in Maopolska. During the Renaissance
the monastery was well known for its master painters and
the huge interior of St. Wenceslas as well as the monastery library feature many fine works from the period. Most
importantly, St. Wenceslas Church also stores the famous
Cross of Mogia - the source of many miraculous legends.
Said to have been discovered when a blacksmiths son
jumped into the Wisa River to save what he thought to be a
drowning man floating downstream, the cross was brought
to the monastery and quickly began building a reputation
for miracles before cementing them when it was the only
part of the churchs furnishings not destroyed by the fire
of 1447, despite being made of wood. Christs hair and
loincloth were burned however, and ever since that time he
has donned a wrap of true fabric and a wig of real human
hair. Weird. The monastery is easily accessed from Plac
Centralny via trams 15 and 17; get off at the Klasztorna
stop and its a short walk south. In winter the monastery is
open during mass only, but you can book a guide ahead of
time by calling the number above and asking for extension
11. The adjoining gardens are closed until May.
129
The Lords Ark (Koci Arka Pana) N-1, ul. Obrocw

Krzya 1, tel. (+48) 12 644 54 34, www.arkapana.pl. Built
between 1967 and 1977, Nowa Hutas first house of worship
was designed by Wojciech Pietrzyk and was pieced together
brick by brick by volunteer workers with no assistance from the
communist authorities. The complete opposite of what Nowa
Huta was meant to stand for, The Lords Ark is a remarkable
building, and a true symbol of the Polish belief in Catholicism.
With no outside help it was down to the locals to mix cement with
spades, and find the two million stones needed for the churchs
facade. The first corner stone was laid in 1969 by Cardinal Karol
Wojtyla, who would later assume fame as Pope John Paul II, but
the discovery of a WWII ammunition dump delayed work, and
the precarious removal of some 5,000 mines and shells had
to be completed before work was resumed. Finally, on May 15,
1977, the church was consecrated. Built to resemble Noahs Ark,
with a 70 metre mast-shaped crucifix rising from the middle, the
church houses a mind-boggling array of treasures, including a
stone from the tomb of St. Peter in the Vatican, a tabernacle
containing a fragment of rutile brought back from the moon by
the crew of Apollo 11 and a controversial statue of Christ that
shows him not on a cross, but about to fly to the heavens. And
if you thought it couldnt get weirder then you hadnt gambled
on the statue dedicated to Our Lady the Armoured - get this,
the half metre sculpture is made from ten kilograms of shrapnel
removed from Polish soldiers wounded at the Battle of Monte
Cassino. The church became a focal point during the anticommunist protests of the early 1980s, not least for the shelter
it afforded the locals from the militia. Protesting during the period
of Martial Law was dangerous business, and thats proved
by the monument dedicated to Bogdan Wosik more or less
opposite the church. Wosik was shot in the chest by security
services, and later died of his injuries. His death outraged the
people, and his funeral was attended by 20,000 mourners. The
monument commemorating the site of his death was erected
in 1992 and is a tribute to all those who died during this period.
Q Lower level open 06:00 - 08:30, 16:30-18:30. Upper level
open 09:00-17:00. No visiting during mass please.
Nowa Huta Museums

Jan Matejko Manor House (Dworek Jana Matejki)
S-1, ul. Wakowicza 25, tel. (+48) 12 644 56 74. Located
in Krzesawice - a charming village just one street behind Nowa
Hutas artificial lake, here youll find the small manor house
with a wood shingle roof once used as a workshop by Polands
greatest 19th century painter, Jan Matejko. Though seemingly
ironic today, this is where the artist went to escape the crude
haste of life in Krakw. First inhabited by Hugo Kotaj - an
eminent Enlightenment political activist who co-penned Polands constitution (the first in Europe), Matejko purchased the
manor in 1876 adding on the porch and the extension which
would house his workshop. Inside guests will see Matejkos
famous Gallery of Polish Kings as well as many illustrations,
everyday items and period furniture. Next door is the wooden
Church of St. John the Baptist - also worth seeing. Q Open
10:00-14:00, Friday only. Admission 7/5z.
Museum of the Armed Act (Muzeum Czynu

Zbrojnego) O-1, os. Grali 23, tel. (+48) 691 68 82
27, www.members.chello.pl/s.pietrzyk/. An astonishing
museum that doesnt translate into English very well, find
inside a series of dusty rooms several touching exhibits
dedicated to those who fought and died for their nation and
who were born in the Nowa Huta area. In Polish only, most
things on display might not mean much to those lacking a
healthy interest in the detritus and paraphernalia of war, but
its well worth popping in if only for a look at the intriguing
and grotesque models of life under the Nazis during WWII.
QOpen 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission free.
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NOWA HUTA
The Nowa Huta Cross
The Nowa Huta Cross and Riots O -2, ul.
Ludmierska 2. Conceived as an ideal socialist city,
Nowa Huta was to be atheist by definition and as such
its design didnt designate any urban plots for troublesome churchs. As one can imagine, the policy didnt go
over well with the locals who, backed by Bishop Karol
Wojtyla - the future Pope JP2, began fighting for a permit
to erect a Catholic place of worship right from the get-go.
Progress finally came with the political thaw of October
1956: the proper papers and permissions were granted,
a site was chosen and soon a large wooden cross was
erected and consecrated in the Theatre district. In June
1958, ground was broken for the foundations, but work
was promptly halted as the leniency of the communist
authorities had apparently expired, and the site was
designated for a school. With the intent of removing the
consecration cross, the authorities aptly anticipated
a conflict after numerous protests and special armed
forces were rolled in from all across southern PL. Nowa
Huta was officially closed and a dense column of
military trucks, armoured cars, cannons and machine
guns sealed it off from Krakw, with the only line of
communication between the two cities being the taxi
drivers who announced that the revolution in Nowa
Huta had begun. Tensions broke into an all-out street
war between police and some 4000 defenders of the
cross on April 27, 1960 and lasted for several days
with water cannons, tear gas and dogs unleashed on
the civilian protestors. The number of injured or killed in
the conflict is unknown, but officially distributed reports
(dubious by nature) listed military casualties at 200 and
eyewitnesses suggest the civilian number would have
been three or four times as much. Officially 493 people
were arrested and 87 sentenced to prison stints from 6
months to 5 years in length.
And the cross? It stood, though the planned school
was nonetheless built on the original church site beside it as armed officers guarded the cross day and
night. By the 1970s the Nowa Huta Cross was in sorry
shape, and looking ready to keel over from rot and
decay - an idea which greatly pleased the authorities
who assumed that when it did their troubles would be
over. Not so. A massive new oak cross was secretly
prepared and when the opportunity to install it arose
in the late 70s as the officers were away from their
posts for May 1st celebrations (Communist Labour
Day), it was erected on the site of the original. It would
later be replaced by a metal cross and in 2007 by the
bronze cross which stands today bearing the inscription, To John Paul II, the Defender of the Cross - the
grateful people of Nowa Huta. The city, meanwhile,
would remain without a church until 1966 when Arka
Pana (N-1) was built a half kilometre away (though it
would be prevented from being officially consecrated
until 1977). In 2002, the small Church of the Sacred
Heart was consecrated beside the Nowa Huta Cross
and adjacent school.
Tourist Information
Tourist Information O-2, os. Soneczne 16, tel.
(+48) 12 643 03 03, www.infokrakow.pl. See Nowa
Huta Museum. QOpen 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon, Sun.
NOWA HUTA
Nowa Huta Museum (Dzieje Nowej Huty) O-2, os.
Soneczne 16 (Nowa Huta), tel. (+48) 12 425 97 75,
www.mhk.pl. This small museum, which also serves as
Nowa Hutas tourist information centre, features a series
of changing exhibitions relating to the life and culture of the
district. Most exhibits are in Polish, but the women working
there speak English and its well worth dropping by just for
a free map and information. Q Open 09:00-16:00, Wed
10:00-17:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Last entrance 30 minutes
before closing. Admission 5/4z. Wed free.
Places of Interest
The Central Square & Roses Avenue (Plac
Centralny i Aleja R) O- 4. The centre of Nowa
Hutas architectural layout, Plac Centralny is the districts
primary landmark and one of social realisms highest
architectural achievements in PL, despite never being
completed. The two main structures of the square were
to be the towering Town Hall (resembling a mini PKiN)
at the northern end and a colonnaded theatre at the
southern end, with an obelisk in between; though the
designs were in place, none saw development. Similarly,
the grand promenade linking them - Roses Avenue (Aleja
R, O-3) - was never fully realised, and terminates after a
mere four blocks, making it a fine example of your typical
Stalinist road to nowhere.
While tooling around the six-story arcaded buildings lining the way, youll find several curiosities worth peeping
into. Perhaps the most timeless shop in Nowa Huta is
Cepelix (os. Centrum B bl.1, O-3; open 10:00-18:00,
Sat 10:00-13:00, Sun closed). Specialising in Polish
folk art and design, this amazing gift shop is like none
other thanks to the original 50s interior of stylised
furnishings, metal chandeliers and a coffer ceiling with
colour ful hand-painted ceramic plates. The character
of this place hasnt changed a bit and as such its a
great place to buy sheepskins, lacework or famous
Bolesawiec pottery at basement prices. Crossing the
street to os. Centrum C, original interiors have also been
preserved in the corner Skarbnica bookshop, but for a
true taste of the district visit the incredible milk bar next
door to it. Nowa Huta is literally chock-a-block with milk
bars, but weve never seen anything as glorious as the
midnight blue with a rainbow motif interior of this bar
mleczny. Topping that, take a trip to the other end of
the block to the legendary Stylowa Restaurant - one
of the only places to eat in NH that isnt a milk bar. Once
one of the most exclusive restaurants in town, this place
carries on in the same spirit as the day it opened with
an interior that hasnt been updated in well over 30
years. Stop in on a Friday or Saturday night to witness
pensioned locals strutting their stuff on the dancefloor
to live disco polo sets by a crooning husband and wife
team, and we guarantee you wont be able to leave
before dancing with at least two babcias and having
at least three unwanted conversations. A rare cultural
experience, few places like Stylowa still exist anywhere.
The Sendzimir Steelworks (Huta im. Tadeusza

Sendzimira) T-2, ul. Ujastek 1. While the monumental Plac Centralny is the face Nowa Huta turns to the
public, its true social realist glorypiece is the Administrative Centre of the Steelworks - the palatial monstrosities
flanking the gate to the complex. Built between 1952
and 55 to the design of the two Januszs - Ballenstadt
and Ingar ten - these twin architectural monuments
crowned with a renaissance comb attic represent the
most exquisite example of the social realism in Poland.
If you could get yourself inside them youd see incredibly

well-preserved examples of 50s decor including black
marble staircases, magnificent candelabras and decorative radiator shields. Getting inside the Steelworks
is indeed a bit of a problem. Despite the fact that one
of its buildings houses a small Solidarity Museum, the
Steelworks are open only by special arrangement (or
during occassional concerts held in the former tinning
mill) and they dont do English tours (sad face). Even in
that case, you would have to hire an automobile to begin
exploring the immense complex which covers over 1000
hectares with an internal road and rail network dozens
of kilometres long. Some of the Steelworks larger halls
could fit Krakws main market square (the largest in
Europe, mind you) several times over, and the lavabrimming melting ladles are several stories tall. After
communism fell, the patron saint of the Steelworks was
revised from Vladimir Lenin to Polish-American inventor
Tadeusz Sendzimir. In 2005 the complex was bought by
the Indian tycoon Lakshmi Mithal and is now officially
called ArcelorMittal Poland, but you can call it Susan.
Wandas Mound (Kopiec Wandy) T- 4, Near intersection of ul. Ujastek Mogilski and ul. Bardosa.
Though construction of Nowa Huta began in 1949,
Kopiec Wandy is indisputable evidence that the history
of the area goes back much further. In fact, the village
of Mogia, which Kopiec Wandy is near the historical
centre of, has been inhabited since 5000 BC without
interruption, while archaeologists date the settlement
of Krakws Old Town much later in the 8th century. Together with Kopiec Krakusa in Podgrze (K-5) - Krakws
other prehistoric earthwork - Kopiec Wandy plays a role
Memories of Lenin
As an avid cyclist it is distinctly possible Lenin visited what
is now Nowa Huta during his two year sojourn in Krakw. He
made a high-profile comeback in 1954 when the Steelworks
were named after him, and a year later a statue of him was
unveiled in Strzelecki Park. The figure was moved to the Lenin
Museum soon after, and thereafter mysteriously disappeared.
In 1970 the decision was taken to construct a new one on Al.
R, with Marian Konieczny winning the commission.
Strangely, the artist was at that time living in Lenins
former flat. Perhaps inspired by this freaky turn of fate
Konieczny took three years to create a cracker of a statue,
with the seven tonne Lenin seen striding purposefully
foreward down the centre of town with raincoat open and
furrowed brow. The people of Nowa Huta however were
left unimpressed, and the statue soon became the focus
of creative vandals. In one such case a rusty old bicycle,
battered pair of boots and a handwritten note were left
below the statue which read, Take these old boots, get
on the bike and get the heel out of Nowa Huta. In 1979
a bomb was planted at his feet, though the only casualty
proved to be a local man who died of shock after being
awoken by the blast. During the Martial Law era more
attempts to destroy him were thwarted, and he doggedly
survived an effort to pull him down, as well as an arson
attack. Finally, on December 10, 1989, Lenin was picked
up by a giant crane, boxed up and left to rot in a disused
fort. But his story doesnt end there. Years later a Swedish
philanthropist bought him for 100,000 Swedish crowns,
and had him shipped to a museum outside of Stockholm.
Today Nowa Hutas former pet Lenin has been given a
more youthful look by Swedish artists, and is now seen
touting a pierced ear and a handrolled ciggie. But we kid.
131
The Legend of Wanda

The only daughter of Krakus, Krakws mythical founder,
there are many tales chronicling the life of Wanda which
have been the source of numerous literary works and
taken their place in the Polish national consciousness.
First mentioned by a historian of the early 13th century,
Queen Wanda (like all Polish women, mind you) was apparently quite an exceptional lady. Possessed of great
beauty (obviously), grace, wisdom and charm, even the
most ruthless enemies were said to willow at the sight
of her, including a Leman tyrant who - in attempting to
seize a throne he perceived as vacant - laid down his
arms at the sight of her indisputable charms. Not just a
pretty face, Wanda is also credited with military talent,
defeating the Germans in a battle at Skotnickie Lake. As
you can imagine, a lady of such high nobility, endowment
and appeal had her fair share of suitors and apparently
the list of humiliated hopefuls throwing themselves on their
swords was a long one. Valuing virginity as the highest
moral station, Wanda refused all those who asked for her
hand, including a German prince who threatened to take
her and her kingdom by force if she would not submit. In
a revered example of self-sacrifice to her people, rather
than willfully give her kingdom over to a foreigner, Wanda
threw herself into the Wisa River - an act which later, during the highly-patriotic periods of Polish annexation and
occupation, earned her the snarky nickname Wanda who
didnt want a German. In order to honour and remember
their great Queen, the nation built her an earthwork tomb
as impressive as her fathers near Mogia, the place of her
birth. Though she died a virgin, those brave enough to visit
Nowa Huta today can easily conquer Wandas mound.
in one of Polands greatest archeaological mysteries

as the mounds date of construction, builders and
function all remain a subject of great speculation. Leading theories suggest that both mounds were erected
sometime between the 6th and 10th centuries, by either
the Slavs or the Celts, as burial mounds or pagan cult
sites; perhaps most likely is that they were created as
burial mounds which later became cult sites. Though
seemingly random within the layout of modern Krakw,
the location of the two mounds can hardly be seen as
an accident; when standing atop Kopiec Wandy on the
evening of the summer solstice, the sun can be seen
setting in a direct line behind Kopiec Krakusa.
O f f a major road behind a handy tramstop (station
Kopiec Wandy), Wandas Mound is a conical earthwork
rising 14m with a winding path to the top, adorned by a
small monument from the 19th century by Jan Matejko
who lived in the Krzesawice Manor nearby. The victim of general neglect and geographical trespasses,
Wandas Mound today lies just beyond the fence of the
fearsomely enormous Sendzimir steel plant, of which
glimpses of a large junkyard can be seen through the
trees. The view to the southwest is an improvement,
where Kopiec Krakusa and Podgrze can be seen in
the distance, though Wandas Mound un for tunately
doesnt offer sweeping views of the same caliber as
Krakws other mounds. The parkland surrounding the
mound is in need of the development which is apparently planned, not to mention some proper modern
archaeological studies; behind the mound is a footpath
leading to the right towards one of Krakws hidden
19th century Austrian fortresses, but, honestly, it just
gives us the creeps.
132
SALT MINES
For centuries, salt was mined near Krakw and brought

wealth to the region. Two mines can be visited, of which
the one in Wieliczka is the most spectacular. About 20
million years ago, this area was covered by a shallow,
salty sea. Unfortunately for Krakw the beaches have
gone, but left behind were some huge salt deposits that
ended up 10-200m underground due to tectonic movements. Ever since the Stone Age, locals have been boiling
brine to extract salt from the easily reachable layers;
from the 13th century people started to dig for rock-salt.
The mines gradually developed from small shafts used
by local farmers and operating only in wintertime, to
complexes of tunnels with horse-powered winches until
finally into the modern mines that were eventually closed
in the 1990s. Both the Bochnia and Wieliczka mines can
be visited on tours that last about two hours, with witty
guides who give insight into ancient and modern salt mining techniques and the artworks, chapels, lakes, sports
facilities and sanatoriums you now find underground.
The temperature in both mines is a constant 15C. If
you want to impress the guide, memorise the wonderful
words Szcz Boe (stench-tsh boh-zhe); this essential,
unpronouncable bit of salt miners lingo means as much
as may God protect you.
Bochnia Mine (Kopalnia Soli Bochnia) ul. Solna 2,

Bochnia, tel. (+48) 14 615 36 36, www.kopalniasoli.pl.
This salt mine was the oldest production company in Poland - it
recently closed after more than 750 years of operation. Today
a tour takes in the largest chambers, that hold a sports centre,
cafeteria, disco and sanatorium before heading off to the chapel
and some twisty old shafts. The route has become more multimedia recently, with talking characters, historical films and other
gadgets taking away some of the simple charm of the experience
and bringing it more in line with the standard set by Wieliczka.
AUSCHWITZ
Get there by train from Krakw (1-3 trains per hour, 30-60
minutes) and walk 10 minutes uphill from the station to the
Rynek (main square) from where you see the shaft lifts.
QAdmission 27/22z. Tours at 09:30, 12:00, 15:30, Sat,
Sun hourly between 10:15 & 16:15. Audioguide 10z. Phone
ahead for an English-speaking guide 125z.
Wieliczka Mine
ul. Daniowicza 10,
Wieliczka, tel. (+48)
12 278 73 02, www.
kopalnia.pl. A listed
UNESCO monument
since 1978, the Wieliczka mine is thought to
have been created by the
forces of nature around
laslandes
15 million years ago. The
mine features nine floors, ranging from 64 metres to 327
metres in depth, with one shaft dating from medievel times.
The tour takes in a series of chambers full of carvings and
statues, the late 17th century St. Anthonys chapel and the
huge 22,000 cubic metre Chapel of St. Kinga, which is completely decorated with salt. The bas-relief wall carvings, made
by talented miners, depict scenes from the New Testament
and display amazing dimension and realism. After passing
a salt lake that holds more than 300g of salt per litre, and
a hall big enough to fly a hot-air balloon in, the tour ends at
the underground restaurant and souvenir shop. A rattling
high-speed mining lift brings you back up to the surface.
Travel the 15km to Wieliczka by frequent train (4,70z) by bus
(no. 304 from main train station stop, 3,20z one way) or by
minibus (every 20 minutes from the main bus station, 3z).
QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Admission 68/54 z, though prices
subject to change from January.
For centuries the town of Owicim was a quiet backwater

community, largely bypassed by world events. That changed
with WWII when Owicim, known as Auschwitz under
German occupation, became the chosen site of the largest
death camp in the Third Reich. Between 1.1 million and 1.5
million people were exterminated here, etching the name of
Auschwitz forever into the history books; countless films,
documentaries, books and survivor accounts have since
burned it into the collective consciousness.
Visitors to Poland, particularly to Krakw and Katowice, are
faced with asking themselves whether or not they will make
the effort to visit Auschwitz. It is a difficult question. There
are few who would say they actually want to visit Auschwitz,
though many are compelled to do so for their own reasons.
For those of us who dont feel so compelled, its easy to
give reasons for not going: not having enough time, already
knowing as much as we need or want to know about it, not
feeling personally connected enough to the site or the history
to need to visit, or being uncomfortable about the prospect
of visiting a site of such emotional resonance at the same
time as hundreds of other tourists. Having been there, we can
tell you that all of these explanations for avoiding Auschwitz
are perfectly reasonable until youve actually visited the site;
youll be hard-pressed to find anyone who has made the trip
and recommends against going.
The Auschwitz Museum and tour present one of the most
horrific acts in human history with a level of tact, passion,
poignancy and professionalism that is so profound, it almost
makes as lasting an impression as the site itself. Without
being heavy-handed, the history of the site is presented
in all of its contexts and guests are perhaps spared from
fully surrendering to their emotions only by the sheer
relentlessness of the information. No matter how much
you think you know on the subject, the perspective gained
by visiting is incomparable. Whether or not you choose to
go to Auschwitz is up to you to decide. However it should be
understood that Auschwitz is not a site of Jewish concern,
Polish concern, German concern, gypsy concern, historical
concern... It is a site of human concern. As such, everyone
should visit.
Visiting the Museum

Arriving at the Auschwitz Museum can be chaotic and confusing thanks to large crowds, numerous ticket windows with different designations, and excessive signage that contradicts
itself. If youre in an organised group, you can avoid this. If you
are visiting on your own however, or in a small group, find the
queue for the desk marked Individual Guests. Although it
was previously permissible to explore the museum for free
without a guide at all times, these opportunities are now
limited and we list them at the end with opening hours info.
During most peak times the museum now makes it obligatory to buy a ticket and become part of a guided tour. This
is likely a result of the December 2009 theft of the Arbeit
Macht Frei sign, the need to raise vital funds, and to control
the crowds of visitors at peak times. However you can take
heart in knowing that the guided tour is excellent, profound
and professional, and afterwards youll find it hard to imagine
getting as much out of your visit had you explored the grounds
on your own. With over 250 tour guides employed, there is
an impetus on the part of the museum to provide the tour in
the native language of each guest. Tours in languages other
than those regularly scheduled tours which we list below, can
be easily arranged if done in advance.
After purchasing your ticket and headphones, you may have
to wait before your experience begins with a harrowing 20
minute film of narrated footage captured by the Soviet Army
when they arrived to liberate the camp in January 1945. The
133
Getting There
Lying 75km west of Krakw, there are several ways to
get to Owicim. The easiest may be signing on for a
tour organised by a multitude of Krakw-based tour
companies (like Cracow City Tours or Cracow Tours) to
ensure everything goes smoothly; providing transportation, tickets and general guidance, the organisational
help of these outfits can eliminate significant confusion
upon arrival.
For those going the DIY route, frequent buses depart for
Owicim from the main bus station (E-1, ul. Bosacka
18). The journey takes 1.5 hours and costs 13z. Some
buses will stop at the Auschwitz Museum entrance, while
others drop off at the Owicim train station. Frequent,
almost hourly trains run between Krakw and Owicim,
with a journey time of 1.5 hours and a cost of about 14z;
note however that early trains to Owicim can be eerily
crowded, particularly on weekends.
The Owicim train station (ul. Powstacw lskich
22) lies strategically between Auschwitz I and Auschwitz
II-Birkenau, which are 3km apart. Local bus numbers 2,
3, 4, 5, 6, 9, 10 and 23 stop at Auschwitz I; buy a 2.40z
fare from the nearest kiosk. During high tourist season
(April 15th to November 1st) museum buses shuttle
visitors between the two camps twice an hour (from
Auschwitz I on the hour and at :30 past; from Auschwitz
II-Birkenau at :15 past and :45 past), or catch a cab for
15z. Waiting minibus taxis run by Malarek Tour can take
you back to Krakw from either camp - a group of eight
would pay 25-35z/person.
film is not recommended for children under 14 (nor is the
entire museum for that matter). After the film, your tour of
the camp begins with a live guide speaking into a microphone
which you hear through your headphones.
Visiting Auschwitz is a full days excursion so prepare accordingly (comfortable shoes). The guided tour of Auschwitz I
takes around 2 hours, so make sure youve eaten breakfast.
After completing the tour of the first camp, there is only a
short break of about 20 minutes before the bus leaves for
Auschwitz-Birkenau II; in order to stay with the same tour
guide, you need to catch that bus, so it would be wise to
pack some food for the day (though there is a snack bar
at the museum). The tour of the second camp is shorter,
lasting about 1 hour, after which you are free to explore on
your own and take some much needed time for reflection.
Buses depart back to Auschwitz I every 30 minutes, or you
can walk or catch a cab to the train station 1.5km away. At
Auschwitz I there are restrooms (have change available), gift
shops, a fast food bar and restaurant; there are restroom
facilities at Auschwitz II-Birkenau. If exploring Auschwitz
without a guide, it is highly recommended that you pick up
the official guidebook, whose map of the camp is crucial to
avoid missing any of the key sites; these can be picked up
at any of the numerous bookshops at both sites.
Guided tour departure times:
Guided tours in English depart at 10:30, 11:30 and 13:30.
Guided tours in German, French, Spanish and Italian are
available at 12:30. Q Auschwitz I. Open 08:00-15:00. Last
entrance 30 minutes before closing. Guided tours run from
10:30 with the last one setting off at 13:30. You may enter
for free and explore the museum on your own at any time if
you are not interested in joining a tour.
An individual ticket for a guided tour of both camps costs
40/30z. Tours for groups up to 10 people, 250z. For larger
groups 280z.
134
AUSCHWITZ
The film costs 3.50/2.50z (included in the price of a group

tour). Headphones cost 5z per person (included in the price
of a group tour). Official guidebook 5z.
Auschwitz II - Birkenau. Open 08:00 - 16:00. Last entrance
30 minutes before closing. Admission free.
Auschwitz I (Pastwowe Muzeum Auschwitz Birkenau) ul. Winiw Owicimia 20, Owicim,
tel. (+48) 33 844 81 00, www.auschwitz.org.pl. Your
tour of Auschwitz I begins by passing beneath a replica of
the infamous Arbeit Macht Frei (Work Makes You Free)
entrance gate. The original Arbeit Macht Frei sign was
actually made by inmates of the camp on Nazi orders and
is being restored after it was stolen in December 2009 and
found in pieces in northern Poland a few days after the theft.
From the entrance gate, the prescribed tour route leads
past the kitchens, where the camp orchestra once played
as prisoners marched to work, before starting in earnest
inside Block 4. Here an overview of the creation and reality
behind the worlds most notorious concentration camp is
given, with exhibits including original architectural sketches
for gas chambers, tins of Zyklon B used for extermination
and mugshots of inmates. Most disturbing is over seven
tonnes of human hair once destined for German factories,
which does much to demonstrate the scale and depravity
of the Nazi death machine.
A Brief History
1940: In April a Nazi commission decides to open a
concentration camp in Owicim, primarily because of
the excellent transport links it enjoys. Using existing
Polish army barracks as a foundation the construction
of Auschwitz I is completed on May 20th. On June 14th,
728 Polish political prisoners from Tarnw become the
first inmates of Auschwitz I, soon followed by 12,000
Soviet POWs.
1941: The first experiments with Zyklon B gas are conducted on 600 Soviet POWs on September 3rd.
1942: Auschwitz II-Birkenau and Auschwitz III-Monowitz
are established.
1944: Jewish crematoria workers in Birkenau stage an
armed uprising on October 7, blowing up Crematorium
IV. Hundreds escape but are soon captured and put
to death.
1945: Liquidation of Birkenau begins in January with the
burning of documents and destruction of gas chambers,
crematoria and barracks. All prisoners who can walk,
approximately 58,000, are sent on arduous death
marches. About 15,000 die during this evacuation.
On January 27 the Red Army liberates Owicim, where
roughly 7,000 prisoners too weak to move have been
abandoned to their fate. In the months after the war
the Auschwitz barracks are used as an NKVD prison.
Post-war: The Auschwitz-Birkenau State Museum is
established. In 1979 UNESCO includes Auschwitz I and
II on its list of World Heritage sites. In the same year it
is visited by Pope John Paul II. His successor, German
Pope Benedict XVI visits in 2006. On December 18th,
2009 thieves steal the infamous Arbeit Macht Frei sign
from above the main entrance gate; the sign is replaced
by a replica, when the original is found in pieces in the
woods in northern PL.
Transported to Auschwitz in cattle trucks, newly arrived

prisoners were stripped of their personal property, some of
which is displayed in Block 5 including mountains of artificial
limbs, glasses, labelled suitcases, shaving kits and, most affectingly, childrens shoes. Block 6 examines the daily life of
prisoners with collections of photographs, artists drawings
and tools used for hard labour while the next set of barracks
recreates the living conditions endured by prisoners: bare
rooms with sackcloth spread out on the floor, and rows of
communal latrines, one decorated with a poignant mural
depicting two playful kittens.
Block 11, otherwise known as The Death Block, is arguably the most difficult part of the tour. Outside, the Wall of
Death - against which thousands of prisoners were shot by
the SS - has been turned into a memorial festooned with
flowers; it was here that Pope Benedict XVI prayed during
his ground-breaking visit in 2006. Within the terrifying,
claustrophobic cellars of Block 11 the Nazis conducted
their first experiments with poison gas in 1941 on Soviet
prisoners. Here the cell of Father Maximilian Kolbe, the
Polish priest starved to death after offering his life to
save another inmate, is marked with a small memorial,
and tiny standing cells measuring 90 x 90 cm - where
up to four prisoners were held for indefinite amounts of
time - remain intact.
The remaining blocks are dedicated to the specific suffering
of individual nations, including a block dedicated in memory
of the Roma people who perished. The tour concludes with
the gruesome gas chamber and crematoria, whose two
furnaces were capable of burning 350 corpses daily. The
gallows used to hang camp commandant Rudolf Hoss in
1947 stands outside.
Auschwitz II - Birkenau (Pastwowe Muzeum

Auschwitz - Birkenau) Owicim, tel. (+48) 33
844 81 00, www.auschwitz.org.pl. Having completely
the long tour of Auschwitz I, some visitors decline the
opportunity to visit Auschwitz II - Birkenau, however
its here that the impact of Auschwitz can be fully felt
through the sheer size, scope and solitude of the second
camp. Added in 1942 Birkenau contained 300 barracks
and buildings on a vast site that covered 175 hectares.
Soon after the Wannsee Conference on January 20,
1942, when Hitler and his henchmen rubber-stamped
the wholesale extermination of European Jews, it grew
to become the biggest and most savage of all the Nazi
death factories, with up to 100,000 prisoners held
there in 1944.
The purpose-built train tracks leading directly into the
camp still remain. Here a grim selection process took
place with 70 per cent of those who arrived herded directly
into gas chambers. Those selected as fit for slave labour
lived in squalid, unheated barracks, overrun with vermin
and lice. Starvation, disease and exhaustion accounted
for countless lives. With the Soviets advancing, the Nazis
attempted to hide all traces of their crimes. Today little
remains, with all gas chambers having been dynamited and
living quarters levelled. Climb the tower of the main gate
for a full impression of the complexs size. Directly to the
right lie wooden barracks used as a quarantine area, while
across on the left hand side lie numerous brick barracks
which were home to the penal colony and also the womens
camp. At the top of the camp lie the mangled remains of the
crematoria, as well as a bleak monument unveiled in 1967.
After a comparably brief guided tour of the camp, visitors
are left to wander and reflect on their own before catching
the return bus to Auschwitz I.
136
POPE JOHN PAUL II
The death of the first non-Italian Pontiff in over 400 years

on April 2, 2005 plunged Poland into national mourning.
Wawel Cathedrals Sigismund Bell sounded for the first
time in a quarter of a century and bars and clubs across
the country closed their doors as a mark of respect.
Tributes from world leaders poured in and flags up and
down the country were draped with black ribbons. Despite
being born some 50km to the southwest of Krakw, the
city remains the spiritual home of the man born plain Karol
Jzef Wojtya who became better known to the world as
Pope John Paul II.
Early Years
Born on May 18, 1920 in the small town of Wadowice, Karol
Wojtyas rise through the ranks of the Catholic Church was
swift and surprising. Charismatic and at times unconventional, his hands-on approach saw him circle the world 27
times in pursuit of his vision of bringing together people
of all faiths. An often embarrassing thorn in the side of
Polands communist regime, his influence is often cited as
one of the key reasons behind the rise of Solidarity and the
subsequent fall of communism in the late 1980s. The second of two surviving children born to Emilia Kaczorowska, a
school teacher, and Karol Wojtya, an administrative officer
in the Polish army, Wojtya was left without any immediate
family at just 21. His mother died in 1929 when he was nine,
His elder brother Edmund, an established doctor, died three
years later after contracting scarlet fever from one of his
patients and, shortly after moving to Krakw just before
the outbreak of the Second World War, his father died,
leaving him with only distant relatives on his mothers side,
and, so some argue, a hankering for a new family which he
eventually found in the Catholic Church.
In Krakw
In 1938 Karol Wojtya graduated from High School in
Wadowice and immediately enrolled on the Polish Studies
course at Krakws Jagiellonian University, moving into
POPE JOHN PAUL II
Spartan quarters with his father at ul. Tyniecka 10, just

across from the Grunwald Bridge where a plaque honours
the fact in the basement. In those days he was known
more as a sports fanatic and outdoor type rather than
for his religious beliefs, excelling as a swimmer, skier and
adept goalkeeper. After a brief spell of military training
in anticipation of the German invasion of Poland in September 1939, Wojtya spent his days cutting stone at the
Zakrzwek quarry and his nights studying theology after
becoming inspired and enlightened by the Catholic layman
and youth leader Jan Tyranowski. A continuing interest in
the Arts also saw him writing poetry and performing in the
Studio 38 underground theatre company in strict defiance
of Nazi edicts. Shortly after his fathers death, in 1942 he
began clandestine seminary studies run by Cardinal Adam
Stefan Sapieha, the Archbishop of Krakw. After the war
he resumed his studies until his ordination as a priest on
November 1, 1946. Wojtya heard Mass every morning at
the Church of St. Stanisaw Kostka at ul. Konfederacka 6.
He would preach his second Mass there on November 3,
1946, the day after he had delivered his first in the Crypt
of St. Leonard, underneath Wawel Cathedral. Shortly after,
Wojtya travelled to Rome to complete his doctorate in
theology where he also ministered to Polish immigrants and
refugees. Appointed as auxiliary bishop of Krakw on July
4, 1958 at the age of just 38, Polands youngest bishop
spent the next five years living at ul. Kanonicza 19, now
the citys Archdiocesan Museum. His final Krakw home
where he lived from 1963 until his appointment as Pope
was the Bishops Palace, adjacent to St. Francis Basilica
at ul. Franciszkaska 3. He became a cardinal in 1967 and,
in what was seen as a shock appointment, was elected the
263rd Pope on October 16, 1978.
Communism
Wojtyas nomination to Archbishop in 1958 was originally supported by the Communist Party of Poland, who
initially saw him as a benign character. However it wasnt
long before he became a cause for concern. While never
directly appealing for rebellion, his congregation recognised the dual meaning in expressions like Christs truth
and freedom under God. In 1979, a year after assuming
the papacy and the name of John Paul II, he returned to
Poland in what is commonly regarded as the pivotal point
in the downfall of the communist system. He preached
32 sermons across Poland in nice days, and created
what has been called in some circles a psychological
earthquake. His brief return offered hope and unity to
the Poles, lighting a flame that later exploded into the
Solidarity revolution. An assassination attempt in 1981,
rumoured to be the work of a KGB/Stasi plot, did little
to shake his faith, and he later visited and forgave his
Turkish assailant. His final visit to Krakw in 2002 will
live long in the memory of many locals, culminating in a
massive outdoor sermon that drew a staggering crowd
of 2.5 million people. Upon his passing, Pope John Paul
II left a lasting legacy, not least in his work to combat
world poverty, his fierce criticism of armed conflict and
his commitment to bringing the Church back to the
masses. He was beatified on May 1, 2011.
Tourist information
Tourist Information ul. w. Siostry Faustyny 3
(agiewniki), tel. (+48) 12 263 60 64, www.infokrakow.pl. On-site English speaking tourist information
QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.
Pope Tourism
Before he was elected to the Papacy and became Pope John
Paul II, Karol Wojtya spent the better part of 60 years living
in and around Krakw. Remembered among other things for
his boundless energy, its safe to say he visited an awful lot
of places in the region prior to 1978, a great many of them
particularly special to him and together worthy of a book of
some considerable size for the connoisseur that space here
doesnt allow. Surplus to the major Pope-related sights in
Krakw already covered in this guide are a handful of other
places of interest outside the city centre. The following three,
which can all be visited easily within a day, are considered the
most representative and are as a rule all included as part of
the scores of Pope tours offered in Krakw by many of the
companies listed in our Tour Guides section.
John Paul IIs Family House (Dom Rodzinny

Ojca witego Jana Pawa II) Pl. Jana Pawa II 1,
Wadowice, tel. (+48) 33 823 35 55, www.domrodzinnyjanapawla.pl/. Located some 50km southwest of Krakw,
the small town of Wadowice features a population of around
20,000 and is fairly unremarkable beyond the fact that it was
here on May 18, 1920 that the future Pope John Paul II was
born, an event thats turned the otherwise sleepy municipality into a major place of pilgrimage complete with tacky
tourist trappings. Everything of interest revolves around the
towns small central square, the appropriately named Plac
Jana Pawa II, including John Paul IIs Family House (Dom
Rodzinny Ojca witego Jana Pawa II, ul. Kocielna 7) - a
museum dedicated to the great mans life and work, which
is currently undergoing restoration that will last until late
2012. In the meantime, a replica of the original family
house has been created in the nearby Dom Katolicki at
Pl. Jana Pawa II no. 1, where many of the original furniture,
photographs and relics are on display during the restoration.
Also on Wadowices square stands Virgin Marys Offertory
Minor Basilica (Bazylika Mniejsza Ofiarowania Najwitszej
Maryi Panny,), a rather splendid 15th century structure
renovated in the 18th and the site of Karol Wojtyas baptism on June 20, 1920. Inside is a chapel dedicated to him
as well as a likeness in the form of a rather bizarre-looking
wooden statue.
John Paul II had a remarkably sweet tooth. During his 1999
visit to Wadowice he made a passing remark on his fondness for kremwka, a local cream cake he used to buy in the
towns Karol Hagenhuber confectionery shop at the other
side of the square thats now a bank. The locals went wild
for his comment and just about every shop in Wadowice,
regardless of whether it sells food or not, now sells slices of
kremwka for visitors to try. Q Open 09:00-16:00. Closed
Mon. Admission 5/3z, family ticket 8z.
Have No Fear! John Paul II Centre ul. Jzefa

Marcika 3 (agiewniki), tel. (+48) 12 429 64 71,
www.janpawel2.pl. 1.5km from the Sanctuary of Divine
Mercy, work on the ambitious Have No Fear! John Paul
II Centre is underway, referring to his famous words during
his inauguration speech. This enormous complex aims to
create a small city within a city that would host independent
conferences and accommodate tourists, including a hotel
and conference centre, Pilgrims House, Priests House, the
John Paul II Institute (an exhibition space expected to open
some time in 2012), and the John Paul II Museum. Final
completion is not expected until 2015, but the unsponsored
project is dependent on donations from private institutions
and individuals. However, June 2011 saw the opening of the
Sanctuary of Blessed John Paul II, a chapel with relics
of the former pope, including a vial of his blood and more
(open daily 9:00-17:00). A mobile museum set-up inside
137
a truck is next to the sanctuary and displays an excellent

exhibit of never-before-seen objects, including photos of
the former pope, his passport, rosary, a sweater, a desk
clock stopped at the hour of his death, and some multimedia
displays; unfortunately, because its a travelling exhibit, we
cant guarantee it will be there during your visit.
Kalwaria Zebrzydowska ul. Bernardyska 46, Kalwaria Zebrzydowska, tel. (+48) 33 87 66 304, www.
kalwaria.eu. The story behind the foundation of Polands
first and Europes largest Calvary, Kalwaria Zebrzydowska
Park, is as incredulous as it is unpronounceable. Located
mid-way between Krakw and Wadowice just off the road to
the latter, the story begins with the wife of Mikoaj Zebrzydowski (1553-1620), Voivode (Governor) of Krakw who had
a vision of three burning crosses on the very hill the park is
now located. In recognition of Mrs. Zebrzydowskis powers a
series of over 40 Baroque churches and chapels dedicated
to several faiths were built on the site at the beginning of the
17th century by none other than her husband. The crowning
glory is the marvellous Baroque St. Marys Basilica (Bazylika
Matki Boej Anielskiej), the first building to be constructed
and the work of the Giovanni Maria Bernardoni and Paolo
(or Paul) Baudarth. Completed in 1609 the church is part of
a larger complex including a Franciscan monastery, simple
accommodation for the thousands of pilgrims who flock
here every year and the Calvary itself. A UNESCO World
Heritage site since 1999, several routes are available for
those wanting to follow it. Connections with the late John
Paul II are manifold. The park was one of his favourite
places, and he visited the site on countless occasions
to relax during his life. Q Pilgrimage times 06:00-15:00.
Church open 06:00-15:00. The pilgrimage route is a 7km
path going through the forest. English, French and Polish
priests are available as guides for groups of 15 and above;
Italian guides must be arranged two days in advance. To
organise a guide call 33 876 63 04. Guides are free but
donations are welcome.
Sanctuary of Divine Mercy (Sanktuarium Boego

Miosierdzia) ul. w. Siostry Faustyny 3 (agiewniki),
tel. (+48) 12 252 33 11, www.milosierdzie.pl. Located in
the southern suburbs of Krakw and an immensely important
place in the late Popes life, the Sanctuary of Divine Mercy
in the district of agiewniki is a new church standing on a
larger site including a 19th-century convent where Karol
Wojtya visited to pray daily during the War. The place is
most famous for being a pilgrimage site for followers of an
obscure, semi-literate nun and mystic, Faustyna Kowalska
(1905-1938), who saw a vision of Christ on the evening of
February 22, 1931. In it, Jesus appeared with red and white
shafts of life emanating from his heart, an image known as
the Divine Mercy that is supposed to have miraculous healing
properties. The small church inside the convent contains a
fragment of bone from the body of Faustyna and is a major
place of pilgrimage for Catholics all over the country.
The new church, known as the Sanctuary of Divine Mercy
(Sanktuarium Boego Miosierdzia) was consecrated by the
Pope himself during his visit to Poland in 2002. Faustyna
was beatified on April 18, 1993 and eventually canonised
on April 30, 2000. Attached to the church is a tower offering
superb views of the city; the tower is free to visit although
donations are appreciated and will go towards the decoration
of the interior of the Sanctuary.
Getting there is as easy as a 20 minute ride on trams 8,
19, 22; get off at the Sanktuarium Boego Miosierdzia
stop. Q Basilica open 08:00-19:00. Viewing tower open
09:00-15:45, Sat, Sun 10:00-16:45; admission free. Eternal
Adoration Chapel open 24hrs although St. Faustynas tomb
is only open 05:30-21:00. No visiting during mass please.
138
TARNW
TARNW
By Car
History in Brief
Diocesan Museum and Cathedral entrance

Eighty kilometres east of Krakw near the crossroads of
two ancient trade routes lies the charming and hospitable
city of Tarnw. Maopolskas second city by size, Tarnw is
absolutely dwarfed by Krakw but features many of the same
cultural and architectural charms without the crushing crowds,
inflated prices and occasional feelings of herd mentality that
unfortunately come along with a tourist market the size of
Krakws. On the contrary, Tarnw offers tourists the comforts
of a small town with a long history and the cultural intrigue and
activities of a much bigger city. In addition to a well-preserved
medieval Old Town - which includes a glorious cathedral, a
cute market square and Town Hall, and many pedestrian
avenues - in Tarnw visitors will discover several unique and
worthwhile museums, wooden churches, historic cemeteries,
castle ruins and a scenic overlook, as well as dozens of artistic
and historical monuments at every turn. Those with a special
interest in Jewish history should be extra motivated to visit
Tarnw due to its deep Jewish heritage, many traces of which
are still in evidence today in the citys evocative Jewish district
and large Jewish Cemetery. While the towns nightlife may not
have the sizzle of Krakw, there are still plenty of bars, cafes
and restaurants, the best of which we list here, where youll find
it easy to meet friendly local folks who are proud of their city
and eager to present a good impression to foreigners. All told
its enough to easily warrant spending at least one night, if not
more, as in addition to serving as a quiet, even romantic retreat
from Krakw, Tarnw also makes a superb base for exploring
the wealth of other nearby sites in the region, including the
Castle at Dbno, the folk art of Zalipie, and the salt mines of
Bochnia. Youll find more information on Tarnw and all the
surrounding area has to offer on our website, but make sure
you also pay a visit to the fine folks at the Tourist Information
Office when you arrive for more insights.
Getting There
Eighty kilometres east of Krakw at the crossroads of two
ancient trade routes between Germany and Ukraine as well as
Hungary and the Baltic Sea, Tarnw is easily reached by road.
A good network of train and bus services running in and out of
the city centre also link Tarnw with many major destinations
throughout Poland. The nearest airport is Krakw Balice.
By Bus
Buses from Krakw to Tarnw run about once about an
hour, with the first leaving as early as 05:10 and the last bus
back to Krakw at 20:00 Tues-Thurs, or 21:45 Fri-Mon. The
journey takes about two hours and should cost about 20z.
Everything you need on arrival, with the exception of anyone
who speaks English, can be found inside the main bus station building. Find toilets (2.50z) downstairs, a number of
kiosks selling snacks and mobile top-up vouchers and an
First mentioned in a document dated 1124, Tarnw

was granted city rights by King Wadysaw okietek in
1330 - an event celebrated by a fine monument of the
King on ul. Waowa before the stairs leading up to Plac
Katedralny. It was at this time that the medieval layout
the city retains to this day was created, with the market
square and Town Hall at its centre. A privately owned city
until 1787, Tarnws greatest period of growth came under the illustrious, avant-garde nobleman Jan Tarnowski
during the 16th century when the Old Town was largely
reconstructed in the manner that today earns it the
accolade of being Polands Pearl of the Renaissance.
When the Tarnowski clan expired without an heir in 1787,
the city had already been incorporated into the AustrianHungarian Empire during the era of Polish partitions.
Tarnws citizens were quick to join the Polish legions
when WWI broke out and the region saw many battles
between the Russian and Austro-Hungarian armies,
resulting in a trail of WWI memorial sites and cemeteries in the citys vicinity. In October 1918 Tarnw gained
notoriety when it became the first Polish city to reclaim
independence after 146 years of occupation, and again
on August 28th 1939 when German terrorists detonated
an explosive in the citys train station killing 20 people, injuring 32, and leading some historians to claim that WWII
officially started here. The bombs would start falling from
the sky six days later and by September 7th the Nazis
had captured the city. The first Jews settled in Tarnw
in the mid-15th century and by 1939 their numbers had
reached 25,000 - nearly half the citys total population.
On June 14th 1940, 728 of Tarnws Jews became the
first victims of Auschwitz; of 40,000 Jews crammed into
Tarnws ghetto, over 10,000 were executed and the
rest deported to the Belze death camp. Today Tarnws
Jewish heritage remains through several historical monuments and sites in and around the former ghetto, though
no active Jewish community has survived. Tarnw was a
stronghold of resistance during Nazi occupation, before
eventual liberation into the communist regime on January 17, 1945. The city developed rapidly in the postwar
period as the monstrous soviet-era residential blocks in
the north-east part of the city became home to over one
third of its 100,000 population in the mid-70s. The rise
in the prices of meat in July 1980 inspired a series of
strikes in Tarnw predating the Gdansk shipyard strikes
that would eventually lead to the communist regimes
collapse by over a month. Since Polands ascension to
the EU in 2004, Tarnw has enjoyed the revitalisation of
its Old Town and is gaining an increasing reputation as
a noteworthy tourist destination.
International Travel Centre (open 08:00-15:30, Sat 08:0011:30, closed Sun) for onward travel on the ground floor, and
a snack bar upstairs. There are no money changing facilities
or ATMs, so if you need cash youll need to go to the train
station next door. To get into town, find taxis parked outside,
who will take you to the Rynek for 10-12z. Bus N9 can be
caught on ul. Krakowska (buy a 2.40z ticket from one of the
nearby kiosks), and heads east along the same street before
peeling right and skirting around the southern edge of the
Old Town. A walk into the centre takes about 10 minutes.
Main Bus Station ul. Dworcowa 1, tel. (+48) 703 40

33 23. Q Ticket Office open from the 25th of each month
to the 5th of the following month, 06:30-16:00. This goes a
long way towards explaining why everyone buys their tickets
from the driver.
139
Rynek & The Old Town
Tarnw is close to a number of major road routes in all directions and is worth considering as a place to stop off for a
few hours or even for the night if youre on a long journey.
Only 80km from Krakw, its an easy hours drive east if you
catch it at the right time, however traffic jams are increasingly common and unpredictable, meaning the journey could
take anywhere between one and two hours. The main road
from Krakw leads right to the market square and the most
convenient place to park is at Tesco, just to your left after
you pass a large cathedral and go through the light at ul.
Sikorskiego. Parking must be paid Mon-Fri 08:00-18:00,
Sat 08:00-15:00 (Sun free), with some complicated math
dictating the price depending how long you will be there (for
example 1.70z/1hr, 6z/3hrs, 12z/24hrs). Buy a ticket from
the kiosk, cross off the proper time and from there its about
a 10min walk to the main square and tourist info office.
By Train
Tarnw is served by some 40 or so trains every day from
Krakw, with a journey time of between 80 and 110 minutes
depending on whether you take a local or express train. Following an extensive renovation, Tarnows train station reopened
in November 2010, exactly one hundred years after its original
opening in November 1910. While the original character of the
building was retained - including Edmund Cieszkiewiczs paintings of the Tatra and Pieniny mountains which were funded
by the early train owners over a century ago - it has been
converted into a modern passenger centre with all the services
a modern station requires. A tourist info point in the main hall
is open Mon-Fri 09:00-17:00, and the two ticket offices stay
open 24/7 with a short break between midnight and 1:30. Find
also a kiosk, shop, cafe, underground restaurant and the BWA
Gallery. Walking to the centre takes about 10mins while a taxi
from outside the station will cost about 10z.
Main Train Station Pl. Dworcowy 4, tel. (+48) 42 205

50 07, www.rozklad.pkp.pl.
Hotels
Bristol ul. Krakowska 9, tel. (+48) 880 47 74 77,
www.hotelbristol.com.pl. A sumptuous, inter-war feeling of grandeur inside Tarnws classy, four-star hotel, the
immaculate rooms come with minibars, cable television,
arty-looking beds and a choice of en suite facilities with
either a shower or bath. Extras include solarium, gym and a
wonderful honeymoon apartment featuring a large Jacuzzi
and a bright pink bed. Q15 rooms (3 singles 190z, 4 doubles
320z, 2 triples 450z, 4 suites 270 - 380z, 2 apartments
280 - 450z). PTHA6FGKW hhhh
Tarnovia ul. Kociuszki 10, tel. (+48) 14 630 03 50, www.

hotel.tarnovia.pl. One of two communist-era landmark hotels
in the city, the Tarnovia is both the nearest to the city centre and
the more charming of the two. Built in the 1970s, the hotel is
now owned by the staff themselves, giving the whole place a
strange aura of pride that is lacking in many hotels of a much
better standard. Rooms come in a variety of choices from some
startling unrenovated monstrosities to a range of lovely rooms
with cable television, internet access and great views of the city.
Q127 rooms (60 singles 110 - 230z, 66 doubles 150 - 260z, 4
apartments 240 - 450z). PTHAR6UGKW hhh
U Jana (Euro Hotel) Rynek 14, tel. (+48) 14 626 05 64,

www.hotelujana.pl. A barrage of oil paintings and a laid-back
attitude on the Rynek, featuring a range of good value suites
priced according to the view. Room facilities include huge
Retaining its original medieval layout of latticed streets

and central market square (Rynek) reached by stairways
from a lower, oval-shaped encompassing loop that
was once the original city walls and defensive towers,
Tarnws exemplary Old Town began life in the 14th
century, although most of what now stands dates from
later on. Its crowning glory is the Rynek, a wide-open
plaza surrounded on all four sizes by some fine Renaissance merchant houses dating from the 16th to the 18th
century. At the centre of the Rynek stands the Town Hall,
a lovely 15th-century building originally constructed in
the Gothic style and remodelled at the end of the 16th
century in a classic Renaissance manner, topped off with
an idiosyncratic 30m tower from which a bugler plays
Tarnws hejna - a short traditional melody - every day
at 12:00. Small compared to its vast Cracovian cousin,
the Old Town is still interesting enough to warrant a good
investigation, and includes a fairly well preserved Jewish
quarter to the east, one remaining defensive tower and
a pleasant pedestrian street, hugging its northern edge
and featuring several interesting buildings as well as a
number of monuments. In the spring and summer the
Rynek comes to life with tables and chairs from the multitude of cafes and bars (and surprisingly few restaurants)
lining it and has a really warm and welcoming appeal.
beds, limited cable television, nice wooden floors and erratic

showers. An unbeatable location and a good price, but the
service could do with one or two improvements. Q12 rooms
(12 apartments 135 - 800z). THA6GKW hhh
Restaurants & Cafs

Soprano ul. Mocickiego 6, tel. (+48) 14 621 09 09,
www.soprano-tarnow.pl. Just when wed given up on having a nice meal out in Tarnw, Soprano saves our appetite.
This is bona fide fine dining, from the exceptional Italian
cuisine down to the gold tableclothes. Unfortunately the best
seats in the house are only seasonal - when the outdoor
garden full of plants and flowers is open, and you can watch
the chef at work with the brick, wood-fired pizza oven - but
that shouldnt stop you from making this one of your meals
out when in town. The creme of potato soup with smoked
salmon is absolutely delightful and comes with delicious fresh
olive bread, while our lamb shank with potato puree and red
currant sauce (40 z) was a worthy follow-up. Probably the
most money you can spend on a meal out in Tarnw, and still
a bargain. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 23:00, Sun
10:00 - 22:00. (20-40z). PTAUGSW
140
TARNW
Tatrzaska ul. Krakowska 1, tel. (+48) 14 622 46

36, www.kudelski.pl. A very friendly and relaxed affair,
featuring English-speaking waiters in bow ties and a classy
menu. Among the extravagant-sounding dishes on offer are
the recommended beef tartar, Polish mountain cheese and
scampi in brandy sauce. Theres a fine dessert menu too,
all wrapped up in an elegant ambience of potted palms and
paintings of Old Tarnw. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. (18-45z).
PTAUXSW
U Jana Rynek 14, tel. (+48) 14 626 05 64, www.hotelujana.pl. For the number of umbrellas and chairs on the
market square in summer time, youd think finding a place
to eat wouldnt be such an undertaking. One of only two
establishments on the Rynek that actually serves a meal at
all, what we admire most about U Jana is its reliability. This is
in fact your best bet on the market square not only for food,
but also accommodation and maybe even a drink. Start
your day here with an honest attempt at English breakfast
(the bacon is worth it) for only 20z, or return in the evening
to choose from the full menu of earnest Polish fare at fair
prices. The interior features a salon of comfortable leather
love-seats before room after room of sloppy portraits and
reproductions of famous nationalist paintings. Completely
old-fashioned and enjoyable for it. QOpen 07:00 - 22:30.
(12-55z). TAGSW
Bars & Pubs

Basteja ul. Kapitulna 8, tel. (+48) 14 656 42 02, www.
pubbasteja.pl. Finding Basteja comes as a relief, as it validates the hope that there must be at least one cool cafe/bar
hidden somewhere in this city. Hidden indeed it is - in a passageway between ul. Kapitulna and ul. Waowa - and it owes
a lot to its location which comprises part of Tarnws ancient
city walls. On one side youll find an ethereal red brick interior
with tasteful lighting and black and white photography of Old
Tarnw on the walls, while across the passage youll find the
magnificent summer beer garden inside the ruins of the bastion it takes its name from. Either way, this is one of the most
laidback locales around and youre likely to leave with it near
the top of your list of trip highlights. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00,
Sat, Sun 17:00 - 24:00. Opening hours subject to change.
Churches
Cathedral Pl. Katedralny, tel. (+48) 14 621 58 85,
www.katedra.tarnow.opoka.org.pl. Dating from the
14th century with major additions and rebuilds in the
Tourist Information
Tourist Information Centre Rynek 7, tel. (+48)
14 688 90 90, www.it.tarnow.pl. One of the most
helpful offices in all of PL, make this your first port of call
on arrival. Here youll find a wide range of free information
on Tarnw and the surrounding region, free internet
(browse away), a few souvenirs, bicycle rental and
theres even accommodation available upstairs. If youre
interested in a gadget-led tour, there are nine different
mp3 audio tours of the main sights for hire, in addition
to a GPS guide called Navigo City Tour. The friendly,
knowledgeable and enthusiastic English-speaking staff,
can give you a better idea of what that is, plus whatever
information or advice you cant find in this guide, so dont
be shy. Also at Pl. Dworcowy 4 next the train station
(open Mon-Fri 09:00-17:00). QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat
09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
TARNW
141
15th and 19th centuries, the Neo-Gothic Cathedral of the

Nativity of the Virgin Mary, just northwest of the Rynek and
one of the oldest brick buildings in the city, must rate as
one of the most impressive parish churches in Poland. Of
note is the 16th-century portal, six 16th-century Renaissance monuments to the Tarnowski family, a number of
extraordinary paintings and the impressive, 72-metre
tower, a handy point of reference when getting lost in
one of Tarnws many rambling back streets. Some nice
recent additions are also evident, including the fabulously
ornate sculpted metal doors on the southern side of the
building. QOpen 06:00 - 18:30, Sun 06:00 - 20:30. No
visiting during mass please.
St. Marys Church (Sanktuarium Matki Boej

Szkaplerznej) ul. Najwitszej Marii Panny 1, tel.
(+48) 14 621 31 75. Known locally as the Church by
the Burek, this beautiful little Gothic larch wood church
is only a four block walk south from the market square,
across from the Old Cemetery. Consecrated in 1462, St.
Marys is home to a painting of the Virgin Mary and Child
to which several miracles are attributed. If you can get
yourself inside, the first thing youll notice is the extraordinary smell of wood, a miniature organ, painted flowers
on the ceiling and a few remaining touches of the original
hand-painted wall paintings. Lovely. Q Open 06:00-12:00
and by prior arrangement.
Museums
Diocesan Museum (Muzeum Diecezjalne) Pl.
Katedralny 6, tel. (+48) 14 621 99 93, www.muzeum.
diecezja.tarnow.pl. To paraphrase the late John Paul
II, the Church needs art to better understand what lies
inside the soul of man, and Tarnws superb Diocesan
Museum, established in 1888, does a very good job
at doing just that. An astonishing collection of religious
art from the 15th century onwards, housed inside an
equally wonderful ensemble of 16th-century houses, the
museums most precious artefact is the original alter
from St. Leonards church in nearby Lipnica Murowana,
moved here for preservation reasons at the insistence of
UNESCO. Other highlights include some truly breathtaking
Gothic triptychs and sculptures from Maopolska, a collection of church fabrics from the Middle Ages and a few
pieces of 19th-century religious folk art. A marvellous and
highly recommended experience. Q Open 10:00 - 12:00,
13:00 - 15:00, Sun 09:00 - 12:00, 13:00-14:00. Closed
Mon. Admission free.
Ethnographic Museum (Muzeum Etnograficzne) ul. Krakowska 10, tel. (+48) 14 622 06 25,
www.muzeum.tarnow.pl. As well as highlighting local
ethnographic traditions this better than average collection includes a large celebration of Roma (Gypsy)
culture, which is allegedly the only such collection in
Europe. A truly fascinating, if slightly dated, exhibition
tracing Roma culture in Poland from its beginnings in
the 15th century to their fate at the hands of the Nazis
and beyond, the three rooms that make up the exhibition
include some excellent maps, models, costumes and
photographs, all of which are best seen with the aid of
a small and very good booklet, The Gypsies, written
by the museums curator Adam Bartosz and available
in English for just 3z. There are still about 350 Roma
living in Tarnw, and their culture is still very much alive.
In the museums back garden find several traditionally
painted gypsy caravans. QOpen 09:00 - 15:00, Tue
10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon, Sat.
Admission 5/3z. Sun free.
Tarnw District Museum (Ratusz) Rynek 20-21,

tel. (+48) 14 621 21 49, www.muzeum.tarnow.pl. Worth
a visit for a peep inside the Town Hall alone, this extraordinary
collection over two floors includes glass, porcelain and silver,
and the most extensive collection of 18th-century Sarmatian
portraits in the country. Two new permanent exhibits have
also been added: the Hunters Armoury (now open) and
the Sarmatian Armoury (opening at the end of October).
Sarmatism, if youre wondering, was a beguiling infusion of
lifestyle, culture and ideology that predominated the Polish
nobility from the 17th to 19th century. Based on the mistaken
and rather entertaining belief that Poles were descended
from a loose confederation of ancient Iranian tribes, Polish
Sarmatism evolved over the centuries from a set of values
based on pacifism into a full-blown warrior philosophy that
endorsed horseback riding, outrageous behaviour and a
propensity for lavish Oriental clothing and huge, handlebar
moustaches. Following full renovations the Town Hall Tower
is also open and offers panoramic views for an extra 10z.
There is also a temporary exhibit open at Rynek 20/21, for
which the listed hours also apply. QOpen 09:00 - 15:00, Tue
09:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon, Sat. Admission 5/3z, family ticket 10z. Admission to temporary exhibit
4/2z. Both are free Sundays. Town Hall Tower, 10z extra.
Places of Interest
St. Martins Hill Gra w. Marcina. This 384 metre hill
on the southern end of Tarnw is considered the northernmost point of the Carpathian Mountains and is a favourite
recreation point for locals. It was here that the Tarnowski
Castle, first completed in 1329, stood for many centuries.
The castle had its heydey during the reign of hetman Jan
Tarnowski who adapted it into a Renaissance-style palace
in the 16th century. However, after the hetmans son died

childless in 1570 - a mere six years after his own death - the
castle began to fall into disrepair and was abandoned by
1724. Today all that remains are ruins, however they serve
as a popular hiking destination for locals who enjoy the
panoramic views of Tarnws Old Town (climb at your own
risk, particularly dicey in bad weather). On the western side
of St. Martins Hill, about a 15 minute walk from the castle
ruins and easy to find next to a tall TV transmitter, stands
one of Tarnws three wooden churches: St. Martins. Built
in Gothic style in the 15th century, it stands on the site of
Tarnws first parish, established in the 12th century. Only
2km from the city centre, St. Martins Hill is popular with
mountain bikers, while others enjoy the scenic walk. Near
the top is the Podzamcze restaurant, one of Tarnws better
culinary offerings.
The Jewish Cemetery Junction of ul. Soneczna and

ul. Matki Boej Fatimskiej. A 10-minute walk north of the
Old Town, this cemetery was established in the early 1580s
and is one of the oldest and largest in Poland. With several
thousand gravestones, almost all of them untouched by the
Nazis, the Jewish Cemetery is a haunting albeit necessary
part of any visit to Tarnw. Seriously overgrown in places,
some areas near the main entrance can still be easily
reached, and there are even signs in English marking a few
of the graveyards more eminent souls. Near the entrance
is a large memorial to the Jews of Tarnw, built from one of
the columns of the citys destroyed New Synagogue. The
cemeterys original gates are now in Washingtons Holocaust
Museum, and their replacements are kept firmly locked,
however it is possible to borrow a key by leaving a 20z
deposit at the Tourist Information Centre at Rynek 7 (Open
10:00-18:00, Sat 09:00-17:00, Closed Sun).
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LEISURE
LEISURE
While drinking in cafes and beer gardens is probably the

number one local leisure activity, our Leisure section is
geared more for those looking outdoor activities on a
beautiful day, or how to stay active on an ugly one. Generally, Cracovians are spoiled with recreation opportunities, if only for the fact that the Old Town is a joy to stroll
around when the sun is out and features several unique
green spaces, particularly the Planty and Bonia (see
Outdoor Attractions), the latter of which is home to an ice
rink in winter. Other highlights include Las Wolski (Wolski
Forest), which is home to Kociuszko and Pisudski
Mounds, as well as the Zoo, and provides plenty of hiking
opportunities. Cracovians also love getting out of town,
whether it be short day-outings to Tyniec (see Further
Afield) and Ojcw (both of which you can expect to be
packed on sunny weekends), or mountains excursions to
the Beskidy and Tatra ranges to the south. Zakopane
is an especially popular destination for skiing in winter
and hiking in the summer. Use the listings below to keep
active in every season.
arcade, billiards and rumpus room for the kids. Take trams 1,
14 or 22, getting off at Krakw Plaza. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00,
Fri, Sat 10:00 - 05:00, Sun 11:00 - 02:00.
Bowling & Billiards
Korona Rock Gym J - 5, ul. Kalwar yjska 9 -15

(Podgrze), tel. (+48) 605 20 45 32, www.wspinanie.
korona.krakow.pl. Krakws best rock gym. QOpen
12:00 - 22:00. Access to climbing wall before 14:00 - 10z;
after 14:00 - 20z.
Cue Bar K-2, ul. Mogilska 35, tel. (+48) 12 417 22 10,
www.cuebar.pl. Krakws first proper billiards bar, Cue Bar
takes it seriously. Judging by the prices, maybe a little too
seriously. Seven tables in total: three professional snooker
tables (18z/hr), two eight-foot pool tables and three ninefoot pool tables in the attic (15-17z/hr). And beer, of course.
Call if youre interested in tournaments or private lessons.
QOpen 13:00 - 22:30.
Fantasy Park L-2, Al. Pokoju 44, tel. (+48) 12 290 95
15, www.fantasypark.pl. The citys best bowling lanes, an
Aero Platform
AeroPlatform (Balon Widokowy) B-7, Bulwar Woyski,
tel. (+48) 511 802 202, www.
hiflyer.pl. If you find yourself across
from Wawel on the opposite banks
of the Vistula and fancy a slightly
more adrenaline-pumping way to a
panoramic view, take a scenic ride
in this massive balloon. Rising to a
height of up to 150 meters, youll
have about fifteen minutes to snap photos and overcome
your acrophobia. Possibly in a move to appease some
of the critics who consider it an eyesore, the balloon has
I love Poland and I love Krakow written on opposite
sides of it in enormous Polish writing. Come well before
dusk and bring your student card if youve got one and
youll be hard-pressed to find a better view from above
in Krakow. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. Hours will likely be
reduced soon, with the potential to close as early 18:00,
but nothing was confirmed at press time. 28/15z per
flight, students with proper ID (foreign student cards
accepted) 20z, family ticket 65z.
Hotel Wilga I-5, ul. Przedwionie 16, tel. (+48) 12

294 44 29, www.hotel.wilga.krakow.pl. The only hotel
in Krakw with a bowling alley. Located in Podgrze, this
new offer features two lanes, billiards and a bar, all ideal for
private parties. Reserve in advance to ensure availability.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Bowling one hour game 30-60z.
Bilard 10z.
Climbing
Forteca Climbing Centre H-1, ul. Racawicka 60,
tel. (+48) 12 632 83 33, www.cwf.pl. Separate sections for pros and beginners, instruction offered, available
for events. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. Access to climbing wall
from 10:00-15:00, 12/9z; after 15:00, 20/15z. On Sat and
Sun the entire day costs 15/10z.
Extreme Sports
L a s e r A r e n a I - 4 , u l . M a r i i Ko n o p n i c k i e j 2 8
(Hotel Forum), tel. (+48) 604 42 31 74, www.
laserarena.pl. Finally the Hotel Forum (that unsightly
behemoth on the river front across from Skaka) has
been put to good use. Run amock in this unfinished
and abandoned communist shipwreck dodging laser
beams and zapping adversaries. Laser Arena uses
a computer system to register hits from the virtual
bullets in a safe, simulated gunfight within this highly
unique setting. QOpen 16:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 12:00
- 22:00. 15min - 20z/person; 30min - 30z; 1hr - 50z.
Students 15% of f. Happy hour discounts, weekdays
16:00-17:00. Prices subject to change, check their
website for the latest rates.
Origo K-2, ul. Eisenberga 2, tel. (+48) 12 418 41 56,

www.lodowisko-krakow.pl. Tickets for a 1,5 hour skate
around cost 9/7z. Skate rental 6z/1,5hr. QOpen 14:00 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. Frequent reservations make
it wise to check the schedules online for availability.
Sleigh Rides
The winter alternative of a horse-drawn carriage ride around
Krakws market square, a sleigh ride through the countryside is arguably more magical and romantic, and makes a
great family outing. A traditional ride typically includes a large
horse-drawn sled kitted out with sleigh bells and flaming
torches winding through the beautiful snow-draped valleys
surrounding Krakw and concludes with a forest bonfire,
grilled sausages, tea or warm honey vodka. The companies
listed here offer such excursions for all ages from the seasons first snowfall.
Ecotravel M-2, Os. Niepodlegoci 3a/5a (Nowa

Huta), tel. (+48) 12 681 36 92, www.ecotravel.
pl. Organising sleigh rides through the gorgeous Ojcw
National Park, 24km northwest of Krakw. Included in
the price of the sleigh ride are torches, a bonfire with
sausages and hot wine/or tea (you can bring along your
own vodka). They can tailor a tour to your requirements,
taking in, for example, the Kazimierz Castle ruins. Rides
take approximately one hour with prices ranging from
65-100z depending on the number of people, and are
available whenever theres snow on the ground. English
speaking staff are also available. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00,
Stadnina Podskalany ul. Podskalany 61, Tomaszo-
505 16 55 63, www.paintball-krakow.pl. Paintball for

groups of at least 8 people. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. A minimum of 8 people costs 55z per person. Prices negotiable
for groups of more than 20. 100 additional pellets 20z.
wice, tel. (+48) 606 91 50 09, www.stadnina.podskalany.pl. In addition to horse riding lessons, natural horsemanship instruction and trail riding, this outfit offers sleigh
rides for all ages from the first winter snowfall. Located about
10km northwest of Krakw, rides are conducted through
the enchanting forests and valleys of the Jura Highland and
can include bonfires with grilled sausage. Call to arrange
times and cost.
Fitness Clubs & Gyms
Spa & Beauty
Safe War Margaretek 1 (Prdnik Biay), tel. (+48)
Multi Fitness D-7, ul. Krakowska 21, tel. (+48) 12 430

63 36, www.multi-fitness.pl. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00, Sat
09:00 - 18:00, Sun 09:00 - 14:00. Admission 15z for gym,
fitness classes 20z.
Tribal Fitness C-1, ul. w. Filipa 9a, tel. (+48) 12 632
68 48, www.tribalfitness.pl. QOpen 08:30 - 22:00, Sat
08:30 - 13:00, Sun 08:30 - 12:00. Admission 25z.
Wellness Club Park Wodny L-1, ul. Dobrego Pasterza

126, tel. (+48) 12 616 31 56, www.parkwodny.pl.
QOpen 06:30 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 18:00.
Ice Skating
MKS Cracovia E-4, ul. Siedleckiego 7, tel. (+48) 12
292 91 00, www.cracovia.pl. Behind Hala Targowa, this
ice rink is open to the public when regular peewee hockey
games arent happening. As we went to press that meant,

Mon and Thu at 20:30, Wed at 16:00 and 20:00; weekends
at 13:00, 15:00, 17:00 and 19:00 (though matches may deny
availability Sundays at 17:00 and 19:00). You may want to
check the website or call first to be sure. Q 10/8z for 1.5
hours, 7-8z skate rental, 2z cloak room fee.
Chaiyo Thai Massage Centre

E-4, ul. Dietla 103/2, tel. (+48)
12 422 65 49, www.tajskimasaz.
pl/krakow/thai-massage-cracow.
html. Authentic Thai massages: improve blood and limphatic circulation,
release physical and mental tension, strengthen the
immune system, improve flexibility of joints, remove
toxins. Performed solely by highly qualified Thai masseuses trained at Wat Pho Temple in Bangkok. The offer:
Classical Thai massage, Herbal compresses, Relaxing
massage with essential oils, Massage for the physically active, Feetnlegs reflexology, Back & shoulders &
head massage etc. Receive a 10% discount when you
present this coupon. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. Massages
100-300z.
For Kids
Krakw now has two new cafes designed for kids to
play and their parents to take a break. See our box in
the Cafes section for more. In warm weather, Krakw
families favourite park and outdoor play area is Dr. H
Jordan Park near the Bonia Meadow (H-2, Al. 3 Maja
11). Also, dont forget Krakws highly enjoyable Zoo
(under its own heading in Leisure).
Anikino ul. Niedua 4 (Prdnik Czerwony), tel.

(+48) 12 411 30 07, www.anikino.pl. A fantastic
under 12s playroom with labyrinth, bouncy castle, adventure playground etc. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. 13z per
hour during the week (or 25z for unlimited play time), and
15z (30z unlimited) during the weekend.
Krakw Aquarium D-5, ul. w. Sebastiana 9, tel.
(+48) 12 429 10 49, www.aquariumkrakow.com. Occupying the lower levels of the Natural History Museum, this
2000 square metre marvel features not just fish but dozens
of lizards, monkeys, turtles, tropical frogs,venomous snakes
and most recently a new area with spiders and insects.
Though weve now lost hope of ever witnessing the completion of the bad-ass 90,000 litre shark tank that should be
occupying the front room, this is still an exciting outing for
kids complete with touch-screen info stations, touch tanks
and educational programs. Go fish. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00,
Sat 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Last entrance 60
minutes before closing. Admission for children ages 4 to 16
is 13.95z, adults 19.95z, family ticket (2 parents, 2 kids)
59z. Children 3 and under enter for free.
Park Wodny (Water Park) L-1, ul. Dobrego
Pasterza 126, tel. (+48) 12 616 31 90, www.parkwodny.pl. The biggest indoor pool complex in Poland
includes 800 metres of water slides for all ages, dragon
and pirate play areas, massage fountains, climbing walls,
wave machines, swings and other in-water activites, this
incredible aquatic playground is the thing your kid will
remember most about Krakw. You wont have such a
bad time yourself with access to saunas, jacuzzis, fitness
and wellness centres and a pool-side cafe from which you
can watch your little terrors try to dunk each other. Prices
to the pool vary but are in the range of 13-22z for one
hour, and 35-49z for day access. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00.
Pod Wawelem C-5, ul. w. Gertrudy 26-29, tel.
(+48) 12 421 23 36, www.podwawelem.eu. This
fabulous two-level 60 square metre kids rumpus palace
features a ball pit, slides and more and is free for guests
to the Pod Wawelem restaurant. Theres even a babysitter
on weekends from 13:00-18:00 to watch the little ones
while you clink steins to a well-deserved parental recess.
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon.
Zoo ul. Kasy Oszczdnoci Miasta Krakowa 14 (Krowodrza), tel. (+48) 12 425 35 51, www.zoo-krakow.
pl. Take bus number 134 from outside the Hotel Cracovia
to make a visit to Krakws zoo. Entrance costs 18/10z
and the zoo features some 300 species including South
American sea lions, camels, dwarf caimans and a surprisingly
impressive array of brightly-plumed pheasants (our favorite).
Most of the exhibits are outdoors in the natural setting of Las
Wolski forest and there is surprisingly little to get depressed
about. Recommended. Q Open 09:00 - 16:00 at press
time, though closing may be advanced to 15:00 (no earlier)
later in the season. Last entrance one hour before closing.
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LEISURE
LEISURE
Outdoor Attractions & Parks

Bonia Meadow G-3, . Directly to the west of the Old
Town, Bonia is a huge triangular meadow measuring
nearly 50 hectares. Once swampland, the vast expanse
has served a variety of purposes through history: as a
medieval football pitch, the site of huge military rallies
during the inter-war period and for outdoor masses during Pope John Paul IIs visits to his adopted city. Today it is
the citys largest open space and favourite leisure space.
Kociuszko Mound F-3, Al. Waszyngtona 1, tel.
(+48) 12 425 11 16, www.kopieckosciuszki.pl. A
300m high man-made peak erected in memory of Polands most celebrated revolutionary. As the driving force
behind the 1794 insurrection against foreign rule Tadeusz
Kociuszkos finest moment came in the Battle of Racawica
where his band of peasant soldiers scored a historic win
over the Russian army. Having fought with distinction in
the American War of Independence the mound was built
between 1820-1823 using earth from the battlefields on
which Kociuszko had fought so gallantly. Climbing the peak
is exhausting work, but the panoramic views of Krakw
are a worthwhile reward. At the bottom of the mound lies
the neo-Gothic Chapel of St. Bronisawa, which contains
a medley of objects connected to Kociuszkos life, and
in the surrounding area are Austrian fortifications dating
from 1850; today they house two cafes, a radio station,
restaurant, wax museum and two permanent exhibits:
Fort or City Krakow 1864-1918 (admission included with
mound; same hours as mound) and Kociuszkos Insurrection (open 09:30-15:00; admission included with mound).
Q Open daily 9:00 to sunset. Admission 10/8z. All family
members entitled to buy the discounted ticket.
Pisudski Mound Talk of building a mound in honour

of Polands inter-war hero and leader Jzef Pisudski were
underway even before his death in 1935, and by 1937 it was
complete. Leveling the structure was on the list of things the
Nazis never got around to and the man-made earthwork
was later vandalised when communist tanks pulled down
the huge granite cross that once stood at its peak. Like
Polish independence, the mound has since been restored
and is commonly referred to as Independence or Freedom
Mound today. The view from the top, which peeks above the
trees of surrounding Wolski Forest, is excellent; on a clear
day the Tatras are visible to the south. To reach it take bus
134 from outside the Cracovia hotel to the Zoo and follow
the red-blazed hiking trail to the mound.
Planty C-4/5. Once the site of the citys 13th century defensive fortifications, the moats were filled, the walls razed
and the towers demolished - with the notable exceptions
of the grand Floriaska Gate and impenetrable Barbican
- during Austrian occupation in the first half of the 19th
century. While today its easy to regret the short-sighted
destruction of Krakws medieval city walls, we can thank
the Austrians for replacing them with this lovely strollway of
greenery encircling the centre of the Old Town. Known as
the lungs of the city, the Planty is one of Krakws most
unique and charming features - three kilometres of public
parks and gardens filled with trees, flowers, benches and
historic monuments. Walking its circuit would take over an
hour, but represents a great way to see the city. A popular
place for street musicians to perform, drunks to drink
and teenage couples to make out, if you havent kissed
someone on a park bench in the Planty before leaving
town, well you havent finished your itinerary.
Dharma Spa & Massage Centre B -2, ul.

Siemiradzkiego 20A/4,
tel. (+4 8) 1 2 4 2 3 0 0
58/(+48) 669 68 98 86,
www.dharmata.pl. Dharma Spa was created for those
seeking a place for the renewal of body and soul, reaching harmony and tranquility through the use of natural
medicine techniques. Highly qualified therapists from
Bali perform professional procedures and massages
including Bali massage, aromatherapeutic relaxation
massage, classic Thai massage, Swedish massage
with oils, reflexology, Hawaiian lomi lomi massage by
two therapists, and nurturing services for the body
and face with natural products. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00.
Massages 80-300z.
K r y s z t a owe S PA (C r y s t a l S p a) H - 5 , u l .
Kobierzyska 47 (Sympozjum Hotel), tel. (+48) 12
261 86 65, www.krysztalowespa.pl. If youre looking
for something special to do for yourself or your spouse,
Krysztalowes Crystal Hammam treatment is a bankable
option: three phases of relaxation including a salt peel,
steam bath and full body oil massage for 200z (60min).
A large variety of additional face and body treatments are
available, as well as manicures and pedicures, Turkish bath,
Finnish sauna, and mud bath with light- and aromatherapy.
Located on a quiet street tucked between Dbniki and
Podgrze. QOpen 12:00 - 21:00.
Le Grand Salon E-6, ul. Szeroka 38, tel. (+48) 12 422

01 07, www.legrandsalon.pl. An newly-opened hair salon
in Kazimierz with a stylish Art Deco design set over 2 floors
and featuring a cafe. Customers are pampered with free
coffee and biscuits while soft music plays in the background
and the chairs massage you as your hair is styled. Find them
also in Pozna, d and Wrocaw. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00,
Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Women cutting from 23 euro.
Men cutting from 15 euro. Blowdrying & styling from 13 euro.
Colouring from 35 euro.
SalonPro C-3, Rynek Gwny 39, tel. (+48) 12 259 31

95, www.beautysalonpro.pl. Treatments for face and body
using the Kanzah Beauty cosmetics. Competitively priced,
also on offer are therapeutic and relaxation massages.
QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Facial treatments
70-180z, body treatments 90-160z.
Vanilla SPA H-4, ul. Flisacka 3 (Hotel Art Niebieski &

SPA), tel. (+48) 12 297 40 04, www.vanillaspa.pl. This
luxurious spa in the centre of the new five star Niebieski hotel
is a palace of pampering for your mind and body thanks to a
variety of holistic treatments in relaxing environs. Spoil your
skin through a series of peels and masks using top of line
cosmetics and munch on organic bio snacks courtesy of
the Vanilla Sky restaurant between trips to the sauna, steam
bath, and massage tables. Walk in for a free consultation to
have the on-hand hands-on experts create your own personal
care programme. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00.
Racquet Sports
Atlantic Squash Club C-5, ul. Stradomska 15, tel.
(+48) 12 422 15 44, www.atlanticklub.pl. Q Open
24hrs. One hour game 20-65z.
Botoja Squash Centre D-6, ul. Jzefa 14, tel. (+48)
880 40 44 62. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 22:00. One hour game 40-50z.
TenisKrakw K-2, Al. Powstania Warszawskiego 6,

tel. (+48) 505 53 00 53, www.teniskrakow.pl. A network
of indoor and outdoor tennis courts across Krakw, this is
the most central location, with other courts at ul. Chaupnika
2 and ul. Biaoprdnicka 24, and a profesional tennis equipment store at ul. Bandurskiego 24. Before 14:00, courts
cost 50z/hr; after 12:00, 60z/hr. An English speaking
instructor is an additional 55z/hr. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00,
Sun 08:00 - 15:00.
Skiing
Krakw is conveniently located just an hour north of the
Tatra Mountains and within easy striking distance of
popular ski destinations like Koniki, Biaka Tatrzaska and
Zakopane - Polands winter capital and home to the best
skiing in the country. The best way to get from Krakw to
the Tatras is by car or bus. Getting to popular Zakopane
in particular is a snap with buses leaving from Krakws
main bus station and back with regularity. For more on
visiting PLs number one ski resort go to www.zakopane.
inyourpocket.com.
Krakow Valley Golf & Country Club Pacztowice

328, tel. (+48) 12 258 85 00, www.krakow-valley.com.
Probably the closest skiing to Krakw youll find; as such,
its fairly tame with the real mountains being further south.
Open from the first snowfall of the year. Listed here are last
years prices; please note that they are subject to change.
On offer are 3 ski lifts of 100m, 360m and 650m. One trip
costs 2/3z while a 2-hour pass costs 20-25z or 30z at
weekends. Full equipment rental also available with prices
ranging from 25z for up to 2 hours to 35z for all day. Snowmobile hire also available (90z for 30 minutes, 160z for 60
minutes or 120/220z at weekends). To reach them youll
either need a car or take a train from Krakw to Krzeszowice (journey takes 20 minutes) and then a private bus to
Pacztowice (7 minutes).
Skarpa Travel C-3, Rynek Gwny 28, tel. (+48) 12

619 48 00, www.skarpatravel.pl. This firm has a convenient office on the market square and organises day-trips to
popular ski destinations like Bukowina Tatraska and Biaka
Tatrzaska. Transport is provided for about 30z and space
on the slopes is guaranteed. Pay an additional 60-70z for
the ski pass when you get there.
Snow Sports C-1, ul. Krowoderska 58/13, tel. (+48)
12 357 13 45, www.snowsports.pl. Snowboarding and
ski lessons for beginners or those more advanced during
Saturday trips to Biaka Tatrzaska or Czarna Gra. Includes
transport, insurance and instructor supervision for the entire
day. Starts Dec. 10th, 89z per person.
Yoga
Pracownia Jogi Macieja Wieloboba Os. Dywizjonu
303/1 (Nowa Huta), tel. (+48) 12 346 28 60, www.
joga-krakow.pl. English-speaking instructor available. Q
Open Mon 09:00-10:30, 18:00-19:30, 20:00-21:30, Tue,
Wed, Thu 18:00-19:30, 20:00-21:00, Fri 09:00-10:30,
18:00-19:30. Closed Sat, Sun. 30z per class, a pass for
130z gives you 8 classes at a great value.
Yoga International J-2, ul. w. Marka 34, tel. (+48)

692 41 41 47, www.yogainternational.com.pl. Regular
bilingual classes (English and Polish) in Krakws city centre.
Classes take place at ul. w. Marka 34 (D-4), Mon, Wed
19:00 - 20:30, Tue, Thu 17:45 - 20:30.
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SHOPPING
While Krakw cannot be considered a shoppers paradise in

the traditional sense, its artsy reputation makes it a great
place to pick up antiques, artwork and jewellery. Areas of
note include Kazimerz and the open air markets - particularly
Plac Targowy (Hala Targowa, E-4). For typical Krakowian
souvenirs head to the Cloth Hall in the centre of the main
square (C-3): find all manner of glasswork, lace, amber,
wood carvings, local sweets and stuffed dragons. For the
generic western experience you can hit one of the shopping
malls we list, however throughout this section weve made a
concentrated effort to focus not on recognised, international
brands and franchises, but unique, homegrown businesses;
so we encourage you to put your money where their mouth is.
As this is PL, remember most shops close early on Saturday
and take Sunday off altogether.
24-hour Shops
Admira C-6, ul. Stradomska 23, tel. (+48) 12 421
SHOPPING
and independent vintners. Probably the most exciting wine
shop youll ever visit in PL. Also at ul. Jzefitw 8 (H-1).
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.
Amber
Vodka isnt the only golden nectar popular in Poland. Poland is
renowned for its amber and the craftsmen who handsomely
shape the fossilised resin into unique and coveted pieces of
jewellery. Come back from PL without bringing baby some Baltic Gold and youve booked yourself a stint in the doghouse.
The best place to begin is the Cloth Hall in the center of the
market square, where prices are surprisingly competitive, or
visit any of the many galleries around the Old Town.
Red Rubin (Red Ruby) C-4, ul. Grodzka 25, tel. (+48)
12 421 11 34, www.redrubin.pl. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00,
Sun 10:00 - 18:00.
www.kefirek.pl.
World of Amber C-4, ul. Grodzka 38, tel. (+48) 12

430 21 14, www.worldofamber.pl. Also at ul. Floriaska
13 (C-3) and ul. Kamieskiego 11 (Bonarka City Center).
QOpen 09:00 - 20:00.
Alcohol
Books, Music & Films
Nothing says, Ive been to Poland like a suitcase of vodka (and

maybe a dodgy moustache). The Poles have been distilling and
draining vodka since the early Middle Ages, and Poland can
make a legitimate claim as the spirits primordial homeland. As
such, you should put it at the top of your souvenir list, even if
its not to your taste. You cant walk a block in this city without
passing a church and an alcohol shop, so youve your choice
of temples. Belvedere and Chopin are the elite brands youll
find in fancy gift sets, but dont miss ubrwka (bison grass
vodka), Krupnik (herbal honey vodka), odkowa Gorzka
(bitter stomach vodka) and Goldwasser with its signature
gold flakes. Thats quite a shopping list.
For native English speakers a pilgrimage to Massolit is

obligatory. Rightfully adopted as an expat cultural centre, its
a great place to meet people and home to helpful message
boards offering expat services. Look no further.
Szambelan C-3, ul. Gobia 2 (entrance from ul.

Bracka 9), tel. (+48) 12 628 70 93, www.szambelan.
pl. Huge selection of special vodkas, meads and Polish
absynths decanted from enormous erlenmeyer flasks. The
exotic bottles make for ideal last minute gifts which they can
ship for you, or go ghetto fab by refilling a plastic bottle and
stuffing it in your luggage (or strolling the Planty). Sample first,
sample often. Q Open 10:00-21:00, Fri, Sat 10:00-22:00,
Sun 12:00-19:00. From January open 10:00-20:00, Fri, Sat
10:00-21:00, Sun 12:00-18:00.
Antykwariat Rara Avis C-3, ul. Szpitalna 7/4, tel.
71 41.
Delikatesy Oczko C-3, ul. Sienna 9.

Kefirek C-4, ul. Grodzka 46, tel. (+48) 12 433 75 20,
Wine Garage C-4, ul. Poselska 20, tel. (+48) 606

74 55 47. A unique and rather exceptional collection of
organic and sustainable wines, hailing from monasteries
TAX FREE SHOPPING - GLOBAL BLUE

Non-EU residents are entitled to claim
a VAT refund when the purchased
goods are exported in an unused
condition outside the EU in personal
luggage. Shop wherever you see the
Global Blue logo. The minimum total
purchase value with VAT per Tax
Refund Cheque is 200pln. Keep the
Tax Refund Cheque, have it stamped
when leaving the final point of departure from the EU
and take your money back. For full details check www.
global-blue.com.
American Bookstore E-1, ul. Pawia 5 (Galeria

Krakowska), tel. (+48) 12 628 75 73, www.americanbookstore.pl. Your best bet outside cyberspace for getting
the latest Harry Potter book, Grisham thriller or Stephen
King creeper in its original language, this small store in the
Galeria is generally preoccupied with the bestsellers list.
QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.
(+48) 12 422 03 90, www.raraavis.krakow.pl. This unique
upstairs antique bookseller is cluttered with all kinds of oddities in addition to used and rare books: old maps, graphic art,
film and museum posters, engravings, postcards and photographs. You never know what you might find, but its a joy to
peruse. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Austeria E-6, ul. Jzefa 38 (High Synagogue), tel. (+48)

12 430 68 89, www.austeria.pl. Situated in the historical
High Synagogue, Austeria is the largest Jewish bookstore
in Krakw, offering literature, history, guide books and
more in a number of languages, plus music CDs and tourist
information. Upstairs is a gallery space showing revolving
historical exhibits related to Judaica in Krakw. Admission
to the exhibit, 9/6zl.
Empik Megastore C-3, Rynek Gwny 5, tel. (+48)
12 423 81 90, www.empik.com. Right on the market
square, Empik is a veritable one-stop shop for books, music, films, video games and more. A sizeable collection of
English-language periodicals lives on the ground floor, though
the price mark-ups can be shocking; read them in the cafe
upstairs. On the upper floors youll find guide books, maps
and an English language fiction section, as well as video game
consoles for rainy days on the -1 floor. The basement houses
a generally shabby, but also totally unpredictable selection
of overpriced CDs and here you can also buy tickets to major
concerts and festivals in PL. Also at ul. Podgrska 34 (J-3,
Galeria Kazimierz) and ul. Pawia 5 (D-1, Galeria Krakowska).
QOpen 09:00 - 22:00.
147
Produced and distributed by T.R.S. Evolution Spa - Ph. +39 059 421511
Polska: TRS Polska Sp. z o.o., Ph. 022 636 60 16 - www.trussardi.com
146
Biaystok, Bydgoszcz, Czstochowa, Gdask, Gdynia, Katowice, Krakw,

Pozna, Szczecin, Warszawa, Wrocaw
House Of Albums A-4, ul. Zwierzyniecka 17, tel.

(+48) 12 429 13 63, www.houseofalbums.pl. Exclusively
selling handsome (though expensive) coffeetable books,
many of which are in English, this is the best place to buy
photography books which will prove to everyone back home
how beautiful PL is. Also a great place to kill time on a rainy
day as everyone seems to use it more like a library than a
bookshop. Do they even have coffeetables in PL? QOpen
11:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun.
Massolit Books & Caf A-4, ul. Felicjanek 4, tel. (+48)
12 432 41 50, www.massolit.com. The best bookstore
in Central Europe, owing in large part to its unique cafe atmosphere. With books on all subjects and specialising in Polish,
East European and Jewish literature in English, here youll also
find recent English language periodicals (store copies) to peruse over coffee and a slice of pie. Stocked with remaindered
books from the States, the selection is surprisingly good, and
the prices are the best youll find anywhere. This legendary
establishment has been long-running but constantly needs
and deserves support. Still if youre on a budget you can trade
the novel you finished on the train for credit towards a new one.
QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 21:00.
Fashion & Accessories

IDEA FIX streetwear D-5, ul. Jzefa 20, tel. (+48) 12
427 56 43, www.ideafix.pl. The idea here is promoting
contemporary, young, independent Polish artists and designers - and for once were not talking about painted angels or
folk pottery. This shop is straight Soho (NYC) with an alternative urban chic style and attitude that will hopefully encourage
Krakws hundreds of DJs to pick up their duds somewhere
other than H&M. Championing sustainable consumption,
drop in Idea Fix to check out clothing and accessories by
independent local designers, Polish films and music, Polish

fibre arts, interior design and more. Check out their related
and nearby urban art outlet, Idea Kix (ul. Meiselsa 8, D-6) if
you need spray cans or retro sneaks. Also expanding to a
third 230m2 space just off Plac Wolnica at ul. Bochenska 7
(D-7) from the beginning of December. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00,
Sat, Sun 12:00 - 17:00.
Kapelusze Czapki D-7, ul. Krakowska 35a, tel. (+48)

608 28 26 31, www.czapkichorazy.prv.pl. Maybe you
arent aware, but Polish old man hats are surprisingly stylish and this family shop is where to get one. Affectionately
known as the Hat Guy, give Jzef the hatmaker a head
and hell hand you a handsome, perfectly fitting hat. Bring
in your own fabric and hell even custom make one for you.
With Jzefs name and his shops Krakowian address sewn
into each one, these hats make a great gift and keepsake;
evidence of a world that is rapidly vanishing. And theyre a
bargain. Jzef doesnt speak English, but there shouldnt be
much mystery between the two of you; its not like youre
trying to draft legislation - its a hat, hes a hat guy. QOpen
10:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Lniane Marzenie (Linen Dream) C-5, ul. Grodzka
63, tel. (+48) 790 46 61 03, www.lnianemarzenie.pl.
Unique and high quality womens clothing (shawls, tunics,
coats) made from organic materials like linen, wool and silk
by Polish artists. Each item is one of a kind. QOpen 11:00
- 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
Maruna D-6, ul. Miodowa 2, tel. (+48) 609 91 61

99, www.maruna.pl. Full of hip handicrafts, Maruna sells
vintage and recycled wearable goods alongside quirky
acts of fiber art like the rogues gallery of strange stuffed
creatures. A vast array of handmade earrings cover the
148
SHOPPING
SHOPPING
walls of this boho store which wouldnt seem out of place

in Brooklyn, filled with racks of vintage clothes, knitted hats
and handbags, as well as many bags made from recycled
materials.QOpen 11:00-19:00. Closed Sun. From January
open 11:00-18:00. Closed Sun.
So Torbalski C-2, ul. Sawkowska 4, tel. (+48) 12

421 66 26, www.slontorbalski.com. Makers of unique,
handmade leather handbags since 1997, the name of this
popular local brand is based on wordplay from a beloved
Polish childrens story. Tourists will appreciate not only the
quality, but especially the Folk Collection based on traditional
Maopolska folk art - another reason why Son Torbalski has
represented Krakw at numerous European fashion fairs.
Also at ul. Kamieskiego 11 (Bonarka City Center). QOpen
10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
Tru Trussardi ul. Kamieskiego 11 (Bonarka City
Center), tel. (+48) 12 298 68 79, www.trussardi.it.
The modern Italian-led, urban fashion range is now present
in Poland. Elegant but casual clothing for men and women
designed for the modern day where it is typical to move from
business function to private meeting and back. Q Open
10:00-22:00. From January open 10:00-21:00.
Wittchen D-1, ul. Pawia 5 (Galeria Krakowska), tel.
(+48) 518 02 27 66, www.wittchen.com. One of Polands
top luxury brands, Wittchen creates high-quality hand-made
leather goods, including shoes, jackets, hand bags, gloves,
wallets, luggage and more. Each comes with a hologramed
Certificate of Authenticity proving its the real deal. Carried
at many shops around Krakw, visit one of the shopping
malls to see their company showroom. Also at ul. Podgrska
34 (J-3, Galeria Kazimierz) and ul. Kamieskiego 11 (Bonarka
City Center). QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.
Galleries
If shopping for art or antiques, Kazimierzs ul. Jzefa (D/E-6)
is a good place to start, home to numerous contemporary
commercial galleries. See the Culture section for more art
gallery listings.
Andrzej Mleczko Gallery C-2, ul. w. Jana 14, tel.

(+48) 12 421 71 04, www.mleczko.pl. These antiestablishment, often blasphemous, damn funny cartoons
by Polands favourite cartoonist Andrzej Mleczko are
bound to remind you of someone you know (if you speak
Polish, that is). Ideal for Polish friends and family, here
you can buy prints, mugs, shirts, underwear, mouse pads
and more. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00.
Closed Sun.
Galeria Plakatu (Poster Gallery) C-3, ul. Stolarska
8-10, tel. (+48) 12 421 26 40, www.cracowpostergallery.com. Poland has a proud tradition of graphic poster art
for film and theatre. Here you can browse binders of designs
for different plays, various propaganda and alternative film
posters you never knew existed for your favourite flicks.
Many are in stock and many more available to order. They
make fantastic gifts and keepsakes, or go cheap by buying
a stack of unusual postcards. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00, Sat
11:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Gifts & Souvenirs

Its only natural to want to bring something back home
from your time in Poland, as well as prove to those who
have no idea where the country is that it does indeed
exist. Also, if you plan on visiting or staying with a Polish
family while here its common courtesy to arrive with a
Polish Amber Jewellery
his
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ing
Sho disco
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sho
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Diamond and wedding rings
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Gold and silver
Latest jewellery designes
gift. While there are chintzy souvenir shops all over the
Old Town, the Mecca of them all is the centuries old Cloth
Hall (C-3, open 10:00-19:00) in the middle of the market
square. Essentially a huge souvenir market, in the packed
stalls youll find all sorts of Polish keepsakes including
amber jewellery, carved wood, lace and cloth handicrafts
and more. For a tourist market the quality is surprisingly
high and the prices generally fair, so theres no shame in
shopping there. Below weve listed more unique local or
national Polish businesses where you can find attractive
gifts and feel good about how you are spending your money
at the same time.
Bajo C-5, ul. Grodzka 60, tel. (+48) 12 429 14

42. Founded by sculptor, architect, and Jagiellonian
University professor Wojciech Bajor, this company aims
to create natural toys for natural play, without any of
the flashing lights or button-pushing that kids of the
computer age are already overly inundated with these
days. Ranging from colour ful vehicles and animals to
educational blocks, all of Bajos toys are artistically designed entirely out of wood. Ideal for infants and young
children and entirely Cracovian. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00,
Sat, Sun 10:00 - 16:00.
CRACOW
25 Grodzka Street,
phone: + 48 (12) 421 11 34

www.redrubin.pl
We sincerely invite tourists to a presentation of methods examining the authenticity of amber.
149
Calik C-3, Rynek Gwny 7/5, tel. (+48) 12 421 77 60,

www.calik.pl. Few things are more nostalgic, enduring and
sentimental to family members than a Christmas ornament,
especially one that comes from such an overtly Catholic and
family-oriented country as Poland. Calik exports their signature baubles to the US, Canada, Germany and Australia and
recently designed an entire collection for millionairess Ivana
Trump. Put yourself in that company by visiting their shop on
the Rynek regardless of the season. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00,
Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00.
Dekor Art C-2, ul. Sawkowska 11, tel. (+48) 12

284 15 67. The opening of this shop in a passageway
across from Mila makes ul. Sawkowska Krakws official
Bolesawiec shopping corridor. If youre not familiar with
this well-loved folk ceramic brand, head here straightaway
to get introduced. Crammed full of colourful dishware with
simple, hand-painted and highly-recognisable folk motifs, this
bargain shop is sure to help you make someone on your list
happy. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
NEW
Folkhome D-7, ul. Wgowa 4, tel. (+48) 696 173

103, www.folkhome.pl. One of our favourites, Folkhome
defeats the too-common tendency of Polish folk design to be
completely archaic and even kitschy. Combining folk motifs
with modern design, Folkhome sells an inspiring assortment
of souvenirs, decorations, and more practical items including
kitchen, bath and bedroom accessories, laptop bags, t-shirts,
graphics and more. Recommended.
Galeria Bukowski C-3, ul. Sienna 1, tel. (+48) 12

433 88 55, www.galeriabukowski.pl. A Polish-owned
worldwide teddy bear kingdom; Polish Paddington needs
a home. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Mon, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.
Krakuska - Sztuka Ludowa B-3, ul. Szewska 9,
tel. (+48) 12 430 21 04. This fantastic folk shop is only
a minute from the market square and features a more diverse range of decently-priced quality souvenirs than youll
find almost anywhere else: weavings, tapestries, rugs and
embroidery, Bolesawiec ceramic, old fashioned toys and
trinkets, paper cutouts, posters, postcards, painted glass,
leather products, chess sets, folk costumes and more. Q
Open 10:00-20:00; Sat, Sun 11:00-16:00. (Opening hours
subject to change.)
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SHOPPING
Shopping Malls
Bonarka City Center ul. Kamieskiego 11
(Podgrze), tel. (+48) 12 298 60 00, www.bonarkacitycenter.pl. The superlative western shopping
experience has been delivered to Krakw, making room
for itself directly across the street from a former concentration camp and the nature preserve it shares a name
with (just beyond the limits of the IYP map: imaginary
coordinates K-6). Bonarka City Centre is home to 91,000
square metres of retail space with 270 shops including
Auchan, Leroy Merlin, Komputronik and 267 others, over
30 restaurants and cafes, the largest cinema complex in
the city and 32,000 free parking spaces. Built on the site
of a former chemical plant - the iconic smokestack of which
remains - the heart of this city within a city features eight
two-storey palm trees flanking a fountain under a glass
ceiling. To reach this commercial Xanadu, take bus 103
to the Kamieskiego stop, bus 164 to Puszkarska, or
buses 144, 173, 179 or 184 to the Kamieskiego I stop.
Q Open 10:00-22:00. From January open 10:00-21:00.
Galeria Kazimierz J-3, ul. Podgrska 34, tel. (+48)
12 433 01 01, www.galeriakazimierz.pl. Opened in
2005, the success of Galeria Kazimierz marked another
step in Krakws economic renaissance and rated as the
areas most prestigious mall before the overblown opening of Bonarka. Still the most likeable shopping centre
in town, GK boasts over 130 retail units including media
giants EMPiK and Euro RTV AGD, fashion outfitters H&M
and Zara, cosmetic specialists Sephora and Superpharm,
and revered jewellers W. Kruk and Swarovski. The Alma
supermarket offers Krakws premier selection of food
and beverages, while those preferring a sit down meal
can choose from the American-themed Jeffs, Pizza Hut,
or Toskania Italian restaurant. For recreational needs
Galeria Kazimierz also touts a ten screen Cinema City
complex with a fitness club underneath it. Situated next
to the Kazimierz district the mall is easily accessed on
foot; those arriving by car have 1,600 car parking spaces
to pick from. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
Galeria Krakowska D-1, ul. Pawia 5, tel. (+48)

12 428 99 00, www.galeria-krakowska.pl. Covering
60,000 square metres over three floors, if you arrived
in the centre by train its unlikely you missed this place:
a huge glass and steel shopping Mecca opposite the old
station building, which as malls go makes it one of the most
centrally located in Europe. GK has helped contribute to
the regeneration of an area that once was home to dodgy
dwellings and dealings, and now has a new square and train
platform access. Stores housed here include H&M, Peek &
Cloppenburg, electronics giant Saturn, an enormous Carrefour supermarket and over 260 other retail units, 1400 car
parking spaces, an entertainment centre and restaurants.
QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.
Pasa 13 C-3, Rynek Gwny 13, tel. (+48) 12
617 02 27, www.lhr.com.pl. This gorgeous old Rynek
townhouse was converted into a snazzy shopping area in
2005 to become the first branch of the trademark Likus
Concept Stores. Not your typical shopping mall, Pasa
13 has 17 designer shops including Dolce&Gabbana,
Vero Moda and Miss Sixty. Youll also find a fine Italian
delikatessen and bar (U Louisa) in the cellar. QOpen
11:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. While all other shops
in Pasa 13 open at 11:00, Delikatesy 13 and Bar 13
are open from 09:00.
SHOPPING
Mila C -2, ul. Sawkowska 14, tel. (+48) 12 422
40 82, w w w.mila. zaprasza.net. Well-known and
respected in Krakw, this shop of fers a wide assortment of Polish porcelain, ceramic, glass and more,
including the well-loved and coveted Bolesawiec folk
ceramic, Swarovski crystal and Silesian porcelain. In
the centre of the Old Town, this shop is worth a look
i f you are interested in the countrys finest trinkets
and table settings. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00
- 14:00. Closed Sun.
Rock Shop C-3, Pl. Mariacki 9, tel. (+48) 12 429 11

55, www.hardrockcafe.pl. You know a city has made
it when it gets a Hard Rock Cafe and is there anything
which says Ive been there more than a Hard Rock Cafe
t-shirt? Ahem. Pick up the Krakw one to add to your
collection at the shop inside the HRC opposite St Marys
Church. Classic white costs 99z, black costs 105z.
QOpen 10:00 - 24:00.
Markets
Krakws open-air markets are the best places to get cheap
local produce and the only places in the centre where you
can buy vegetables that arent white. Add to that meats,
cheeses, spices, baked goods, doorknobs, dog leashes,
pagers, potholders and literally anything else you can think
of and youve got yourself a nifty cultural experience as well.
Practice your "Prosz" and point skills at the unique shopping
environments listed below.
Keep in mind that while haggling might work at Hala
Targowas Sunday flea market, its uselessly rude
at any of the daily market stalls. E xpecting vendors
to break a 100 zoty note will also be met with utter
disdain.
Plac Nowy D-6, tel. (+48) 12 422 25 59. This historic

square was a Jewish market in the pre-war days, with its
rotunda serving as a kosher slaughterhouse. Today youll
still find butcher shops inside, while fast food windows
line the exterior. In the open trading stalls surrounding
the roundhouse produce is sold daily, with junk vendors
occupying the smaller adjacent square. Its a different,
often unpredictable scene on the square each morning,
but Saturdays are generally reserved for more junk/antiques and Sundays for clothing, while Tuesday and Friday
mornings its a full-on rabbit swap and pigeon fair - one of
the most bizarre spectacles you can possibly witness if
you arrive early enough (ends about 9:00). Markets begin
around 5:30 in the morning and generally end by early to
mid-afternoon depending. In the evenings, Plac Nowy turns
into one of the best drinking destinations in town, lined
with atmospheric bars.
Specialty Foods
Delikatesy 13 C-3, Rynek Gwny 13 (Pasa 13), tel.
(+48) 12 617 02 27, www.lhr.com.pl. Located in the basement of Krakws nicest most central shopping mall, this Italian
delicatessen offers a wide range of high-quality edible goods
including over 100 varieties of Italian cheese and meats, parma
ham, truffles, cooking oils and balsamic vinagrettes, as well as
delicious locally-made preservative free honeys and jams. Pies,
pastries and cakes are also made daily. With the sheer volume
of outstanding goods, Delikatessy 13 is probably one of the
most dangerous places you can take your wallet when youre
hungry. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00.
Delikatesy Wierzynek C-3, Rynek Gwny 15, tel. (+48)

12 424 96 00. Great for gifts, here youll find a plethora of
pricey, but gourmet, chocolates, caramels, bon-bons, cakes and
biscuits alongside traditional Polish liquors and meads. Some
snazzy gift boxes are available for the aesthetically-obsessed;
try the edible box made of chocolate if youre determined to go
kitsch shopping on the Rynek. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00.
Krakowski Kredens C-3, ul. Grodzka 7, tel. (+48) 696

49 00 12, www.krakowskikredens.pl. An old-fashioned
dry goods store of expensive, yet exquisite, Galician delicacies - including jams, honeys, liquors, cured meats, candies
and pickled things. A warm roll with their sliced pork and
mustard from the streetside window is a gourmet street
food bargain at only 5-9z (depending on weight), while we
can also recommend the black pudding (kaszanka) and the
pork hock (golonka). Also at ul. Kamiskiego 11 (Bonarka City
Center) ul. Pawia 5 (D-1, Galeria Krakowska) and the airport.
QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00.
Produkty Benedyktyskie (Benedictine Products) C-3, Rynek Gwny 6 (entrance from ul. Sienna),
tel. (+48) 12 422 20 15, www.sklepbenedyktynski.pl.
This shop, set up by the Benedictine monks of Tyniec Abbey,
sells such an astounding variety of products - cheese, jam,
wine, beer, honey, tea, herbs, syrups, meats - it raises two
eyebrows over how they find the time. All the products are
completely natural, without pigment, and unilaterally excellent and make excellent gifts and can even be purchased
through their multilingual website. Also at Tyniec Abbey, ul.
Zwierzyniecka 10/4 (B-4) and ul. Krakowska 29 (D-6). QOpen
09:00 - 19:30, Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
Rendez-Vous en France C-2, ul. Sawkowska 11, tel.

(+48) 501 75 53 99. A French delicatessen selling fresh
baguettes and baked goods, French wine and champagne,
chestnuts, foie gras and other traditional French food products. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.
Sweets
Plac Targowy Unitarg (Hala Targowa) E- 4,
Ciasteczka z Krakowa C-3, ul. w. Tomasza 21, tel. (+48)
tel. (+48) 12 429 61 55, www.unitarg.krakow.pl.

The citys best outdoor market, Hala Targowa is open
everday for everything from fruit, flowers and produce to
pirated DVDs, dodgy underwear and cheap wristwatches.
Sunday is undoubtedly the best day of the week to hit
the stalls, when it becomes a full-blown sprawling flea
market of Old World antiques, Catholic icons, village
detritus, vinyl records, war memorabilia, mismatched
shoes, stolen bikes and pretty much anything you can
dream of at bargain prices. Different vendors set their
own hours, but most are there at dawn and packing up
between 14:00 and 15:00. At night on Plac Targowy youll
find a 24 hour alcky shop and the best grilled kielbasa
in town, sold from a van.
12 423 22 27, www.ciasteczkazkrakowa.pl. Local sweets

shop superpower selling cookies, cakes, chocolates, wafers, pralines, truffles and fudge with a lovely cafe for coffee or tea. Also on
ul. Stradomska 19 (C-6). QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00.
Ciuciu B-3, ul. Gobia 3, tel. (+48) 502 73 67 58,

www.ciuciu.pl. Touting themselves as the worlds smallest candy factory, this shop is indeed eeny-weeny and
completely charming. Ciuciu specialises in personalised hard
candies and bonbons, adding your small logo, inscription or
pattern to the flavour and colours of your choice. Versatility
is limited, but this is a pretty great gift idea. Or drop in and
see what theyve got prepared already; free sample almost
guaranteed. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00.
151
Antiques
Antiques are ever y where
in Poland and there is no
shortage of possibilities for
their purchase in Krakw.
Serious shoppers will find
that the best items end up in
the antique stores (Antyki,
Antykwariat) that abound
all over Kazimierz and the
Old Town with one of the
best places to prowl for lost
treasure being ulica Jzefa
(D/E-6) in Kazimierz. Knowledgeable dealers offer prices
comparable to those in the rest of Europe, however there
are still bargains aplenty in the citys markets if your
interest is more in finding an odd souvenir while having
a unique cultural experience than finding an undervalued
19th century artefact. Plac Nowy (D-6) is home to daily
junk-peddlers, but the real bounty is revealed during Hala
Targowas Sunday morning flea market (E-4) where every
piece of trash has a price and haggling is compulsory.
Remember, if you are taking art that is more than 50
years old and of a potentially high value, youll need the
proper paperworks and permissions (see Customs,
under Basics). Most proper dealers can provide this
straight-away, but you may want to check before opening
your wallet. Happy hunting.
Antyki Home Decor B-3, Rynek Gwny 29/1st

floor, tel. (+48) 508 17 62 36. Vintage concept store
specialising in vintage design, fine art, antiques, souvenirs, coins and old postcards. Q Open 10:00-19:00, Sat
10:00-16:00, Sun by prior arrangement only.
Antyki. Maciej Widurski B-4, ul. Zwierzyniecka
14, tel. (+48) 12 431 00 56, www.antykikrakow.
com.pl. Specialising in furniture, porcelain, silverware,
painting. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00.
Closed Sun.
Salon Antykw Pasja B-3, ul. Jagielloska 9,

tel. (+48) 12 429 10 96, www.antykwariat-pasja.
pl. One of the best in town, specialising in furniture,
porcelain, paintings, jewellery. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00,
Karmello C-4, Pl. Wszystkich witych 11, tel. (+48)
12 422 03 72, www.karmello.pl. The chocolate shop
to end all chocolate shops, Karmello is Krakws most
exquisite spot for indulging the sweet tooth. Several stunning display cases practically sparkle with over 50 varieties
of exclusively-crafted chocolates, plus truffles, chocolate
bars, candied chocolate-dipped fruit and other specialties.
Perfect for picking up a nice gift in a pinch, or get them
personalised in advance. So amazing it must be...Italian?
Belgian? Nope, Karmello actually hails from Bielsko-Biaa
- about 90mins southwest of Krakw in Silesia. QOpen
06:00 - 23:00.
Wawel C-3, Rynek Gwny 33, tel. (+48) 12 423 12
47, www.wawel.com.pl. Traditional Krakw chocolate and
confectionary since 1898, producing the local specialties
Mieszanka Krakowska, Kasztanki, Krwka, Malaga and
more. Also at ul. Kalwaryjska 19-21 (I-5) and ul. Wielopole
12 (D-4). QOpen 10:00 - 19:00.
152
DIRECTORY
DIRECTORY
Whether a traveller or an ex-pat our director y has
many use ful contacts for you. Remember to email
us i f you find any of our contacts par ticularly helpful
or, for that matter, unhelpful. We also welcome new
additions.
24hrs Pharmacies
Apteka I-5, ul. Kalwaryjska 94, tel. (+48) 12 656 18
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Business Associations
American Chamber of Commerce in Krakw ul.
Jodowa 13 (Zwierzyniec), tel. (+48) 660 72 77 46,
www.amcham.com.pl.
British Polish Chamber of Commerce B-3, ul. w.
Anny 9, tel. (+48) 12 421 70 30, www.bpcc.org.pl.
Consulates & Embassies
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Austria H-2, ul. Krupnicza 42, tel. (+48) 12 424 99
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www.prezydent.pl
t took five seconds to transform Poland from a country bustling with

confidence into one wracked with
grief on a scale not seen since the Second
World War.
At some point on a nondescript Saturday
morning on April 10, the aircraft carrying
the president, his wife and 94 others
clipped a tree with its left wing as it
approached Smolensk airport in western
Russia. Five seconds later, now devoid of
one wing, it barrel rolled anti-clockwise,
before slamming roof first into the ground.
As news of the accident broke in Poland,
and one by one television channels
interrupted their regular services, news
readers struggled to contain their emotions
as they realised the devastating blow the
Smolensk disaster had dealt the country.
Along with President Kaczynski, and
Maria his wife, the casualty list read like a
whos who of the Polish elite.
The head of the national bank, the
chief of the armed forces, the heads of the
navy and air force, two ministers, leading
politicians and dozens of others. Many
household names in Poland; now all dead.
The irony that the Tupolev Tu-154
crashed at it was carrying a delegation
to mark the 70th-anniversary of the
Katyn massacre, when Stalins henchman
slaughtered Polands best, was not lost.
8+>398+6
50, www.doz.pl/apteki/a65770-apteka.
Apteka Galla H-1, ul. Galla 26, tel. (+48) 12 636
73 65.
Apteka Pod Opatrznoci B-2, ul. Karmelicka 23,
tel. (+48) 12 631 19 80.
Warsaws Presidential Palace has become the focal point of the nations grief
The Soviets killed Polish elites in Katyn

70 years ago. Today, the Polish elite died
there while getting ready to pay homage to
the Poles killed there, said Lech Walesa.
Aleksander
Kwasniewski,
another
former president, described Katyn as a
cursed place, and of horrible symbolism.
As Poles absorbed what Donald Tusk
called the most tragic event in Polands
post-war history thousands began to
make their way to the presidential palace
in central Warsaw, which was to become
the focal point of national mourning.
Z </1398+6
A small patch of flowers and candles

left by mourners expanded and grew,
carpeting the pavement and the road in
a tribute to those who had died. Political
differences vanquished by grief, thousands
upon thousands of people made their way
to the palace to pay their respects in quiet
dignity.
The outpouring of sympathy for the
victims spoke volumes for the shock
and sadness that had touched Poles; it
also spoke volumes for the decency of
Poland.
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The parents of the pilot in charge of flying

the presidential plane have begged the world
not to blame their son for the crash.
Captain Arkadiusz Protasiuka was the
man responsible for landing the Polish
Air Force Tu-154M safely in Russia on
Saturday 10th April, but, for reason still
unknown, he was unable to successfully
carry out his task.
At noon on Sunday across the nation two

minutes silence was observed in memory
of the people that died in the air crash in
Smolensk. The silence was then pierced by
the claxons and sirens of local authority
warning systems and police vehicles. To
this mournful orchestra of wails, the Polish nation stood to attention and reflected
on their loss in the forests near Katyn.
The tragic death of the head of the

National Bank of Poland Slawomir
Skrzypek in Saturdays plane crash leaves
questions open about who will replace
him, and how his loss will affect monetary
policy and other issues.
The succession issue is a major one, since
both the parliament and the president
must make the choice jointly.
30, www.aussenministerium.at/krakaugk. Consular

Department, ul. Cybulskiego 9 (A-9), tel. (+48) 12 424
99 40.
Denmark B-3, ul. w. Anny 5, tel. (+48) 12 421 73 80,
www.nordichouse.pl.
Germany C-3, ul. Stolarska 7, tel. (+48) 12 424 30 00,
www.krakau.diplo.de.
Instytut Francuski C-4, ul. Stolarska 15, tel. (+48)
12 424 53 50, www.cracovie.org.pl.
Japan I-2, ul. Grabowskiego 5/3, tel. (+48) 12 633 43
59, www.pl.emb-japan.go.jp.
Mexico ul. Wiedeska 72 (Bronowice), tel. (+48) 12
638 05 58.
Norway H-1, ul. Mazowiecka 25, tel. (+48) 12 633 03
76, www.amb-norwegia.pl.
Russia B-1, ul. Biskupia 7, tel. (+48) 12 422 26 47,
www.rusemb.pl.
Slovakia D-3, ul. w. Tomasza 34, tel. (+48) 12 425
49 70, www.ambasada-slowacji.pl.
UK B-3, ul. w. Anny 9, tel. (+48) 12 421 70 30, www.
britishembassy.pl.
Ukraine K-2, Al. Beliny-Pramowskiego 4, tel. (+48)
12 429 60 66, www.plk.internetdsl.pl.
USA C-3, ul. Stolarska 9, tel. (+48) 12 424 51 00,
krakow.usconsulate.gov.
Dentists
AstraDent B-2, Pl. Szczepaski 3, tel. (+48) 12 421
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89 48, www.dentamerica.pl.
Astra Medica - Magdent ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego
28, Olkusz, tel. (+48) 504 02 44 95, www.astramedica.de.
Denta-Med J-4, ul. Na Zjedzie 13, tel. (+48) 12 259
80 00, www.denta-med.com.pl.
Studio Stomatologii Estetycznej B-1, ul. Batorego
6/2, tel. (+48) 12 633 20 38, www.studiose.med.pl.
Genealogy
Registry Office (Urzd Stanu Cywilnego) I-1,
ul. Lubelska 27, tel. (+48) 12 616 55 15, www.bip.
krakow.pl.
153
Language Schools
Accent School of Polish J-4, ul. Kcik 10, tel. (+48)
12 656 75 68, www.polishforforeigners.com. Offering
group or individual Polish language classes for foreigners.
Jagiellonian University School of Polish Language and Culture B-2, ul. Garbarska 7a, tel. (+48)
12 421 36 92, www.plschool.uj.edu.pl. Intensive or

non-intensive, individual or group Polish language classes
available for all levels through one of the oldest universities
in Europe.
Polish Language Center H-2, ul. Michaowskiego
2/3, tel. (+48) 12 633 58 71, www.varia-course.com.
Offering Polish language and culture courses, conducted
exclusively in Polish in small groups.
Profi-Lingua B-3, ul. Podwale 7, tel. (+48) 12 426
16 01, www.profi-lingua.pl. This nationwide network of
schools offers language courses in English, German, Spanish, French, Italian, Russian and Polish.
Private Clinics
Ars Medica D-1, ul. Warszawska 17, tel. (+48) 12 423
38 34, www.ars-medica.pl.
Lux-Med I-5, ul. Wadowicka 6, tel. (+48) 22 33 22
888, www.luxmed.pl.
Medicina A-6, ul. Barska 12, tel. (+48) 12 266 96 65,
www.medicina.pl.
Medicover J-2, ul. Rakowicka 7, tel. (+48) 804 22
95 96, www.medicover.pl. Also at Al. Jana Pawa II 190
(Czyyny), ul. Bobrzyskiego 37 (Dbniki).
Currency Exchange
Changing money is increasingly less fretful to do, but
as with most international destinations it is still worth
keeping checking rates particularly at entry points such
as airports or in major tourist areas. We check rates of
a selection of money exchange offices (kantors) every
two months. Here were their buying rates (how many
zloty you would get for one unit of foreign currency) for
the 22.11.11 compared to the following National Bank
of Poland (NBP) published rates for that morning of Euro
1 = 4,4114z, US$1 = 3,2813z, GBP 1 = 5,1257z.
Currency Exchange ul. Medweckiego 1 (Balice

Airport), tel. (+48) 12 639 32 58, www.currencyexpress.com. One point in arrivals and another in departures. 1 Euro = 3.86zl, 1 Dollar = 2.80zl, 1 Pound = 4.48zl,
No commission.
Eurokantor B-3, ul. Szewska 21, tel. (+48) 12
421 55 65. 1 Euro = 4.42z, 1 Dollar = 3.30z, 1 Pound
= 5.11z, No commission.
Kantor D-1, ul. Pawia 5 (Galeria Krakowska), tel.
(+48) 515 12 58 84, www.kantor-exchange.pl. 1
Euro = 4.43z, 1 Dollar = 3.28z, 1 Pound = 5.12z, No
commission.
Kantor C-1, ul. Duga 8, tel. (+48) 12 421 73 55,
www.kantor.krakow.pl. 1 Euro = 4.44z, 1 Dollar =
3.28z, 1 Pound = 5.11z, No commission.
Kantor J-3, ul. Podgrska 34 (Galeria Kazimierz),
tel. (+48) 535 70 08 04. 1 Euro = 4.41z, 1 Dollar =
3.24z, 1 Pound = 5.08z, No commission.
Pekao SA ul. Medweckiego 1 (Balice Airport), tel.
(+48) 12 639 32 46, www.pekao.com.pl. The bank at
the airport also offer currency exchange. 1 Euro = 4.35z,
1 Dollar = 3.23z, 1 Pound = 5.05z, 5% commission.
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Real Estate
Hamilton May A-3, ul. Cybulskiego 2, tel. (+48)
12 426 51 26, www.hamiltonmay.pl. Also at (C-3) ul.
Bracka 9.
Komercel A-1, ul. Karmelicka 48/3a, tel. (+48) 12
632 54 82, www.komercel.pl.
Mamdom , www.mamdom.com. Polands largest
Anglo-Polish Property Portal with photos and native speaker
translations. No commission.
Ob er - Haus Real E state Advisor s C -2 , ul.
Sawkowska 10, tel. (+48) 12 428 17 00, www.oberhaus.pl. Long established experts in residential, office,
logistics and retail real estate, both in Poland and the Baltics.
Founded in 1994 the database includes all types of large
and small flats, luxury suites, houses and villas.
Religious Services
Christ the King Church (Chrystus Krlem) K-2, ul.
Mogilska 43, tel. (+48) 509 50 16 39, www.chk.org.
pl. English masses are held each Sunday at 10:30 in this
Evangelical church outside the Old Town.
St. Giles Church (Koci w. Idziego) C-5, ul.
Grodzka 67, www.krakow.dominikanie.pl. Q Holy Mass
in English each Sunday at 10:30.
Translators & Interpreters

Anton Fecica B-2, ul. Dunajewskiego 8/11, tel. (+48)
503 65 29 80, www.fecica.pl. Can translate official documents. Call in advance.
Lingua Expert C-3, ul. Mikoajska 5/9, tel. (+48) 12
421 06 63, www.linguaexpert.pl. Professional translators
who provide services in all languages.
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STREET REGISTER
29 Listopada, Al.
J-1
3 Maja, Al.
G/H-2/3
Akacjowa
L-1
Akademicka
H-2
Aliny
L-1
Altanowa
G-1
Ariaska
J-2
Armii Krajowej, Al.
F/G-1
Asnyka
B-1/2
Augustiaska
D-6-7
Bajeczna
L-3
Bauckiego
A-6
Bandtkiego
F-1
Bandurskiego
K-1/2
Barska
A/B-6/7
Bartosza
E-6
Basztowa
C/D-2
Batorego
I-2
Beliny-Pramowskiego, Al.
K-1/2
Berka Joselewicza
E-5
Bernardyska
B/C-5/6
Biaa Droga
H-4
Biernackiego
H-1
Biskupia
B-1
Blachnickiego, ks.
J-3
Blich
J-3
Bobrowskiego
K-3
Boczna
H-4
Bohomolca
L-1
Bocheska
J-4
Bonerowska
E-4
Bonifraterska
D-7
Bora-Komorowskiego, gen.
K/L-1
Borowego
F-2
Bosacka
E-1/2
Boego Ciaa
D-6/7
Boznaskiej
K-1
Bracka
C-3/4
Brzownicza
F-2
Brodowicza
K-1/2
Bronowicka
F/G-1
Brzozowa
D-5
Buhaka
A-7
Buszka
F/G-2
Bydgoska
G-1/2
Bytomska
H-1
Ceglarska
H-5
Celna
J-4
Chmielowskiego
I/J-4
Chocimska
H-1/2
Chodkiewicza
J-3
Chodowieckiego
G-2
Chopina
H-2
Ciemna
E-6
Cieszyska
I-1
Cicha
F-1
wiklowa
F-5
Cybulskiego
A-3
Cystersw
L-2/3
Czapskich
A-3
Czarnieckiego
J-4
Czarnowiejska
H-2
Czarodziejska
G/H-4
Czysta
A-2
Czywka
J-5
Dbrowskiego, gen.
K-4
Dbska
L-2
Dajwr
E-6
Daszyskiego
J-3/4
Dbnicka
H-4
Dbowa
A-7
Dekerta
K-4
Dembowskiego
J/K-5
Dietla
C/E-4/6
Duga
C-1
Dugosza
J-5
Dobrego Pasterza
K/L-1
Dolnych Mynw
A-2
Dominikaska
C-4
Droga do Zamku
B/C-5-6
Dunajewskiego
B/C-2
Dworska
H-4
Dzielskiego
K/L-1
Estery
D-6
Fabryczna
L-2/3
Faata
H-3
Feldmana
A-1
Felicjanek
A-4
Fenna Sereno
I-2
Filarecka
H-3
Flisacka
H-3/4
Floriaska
C/D-2/3
Focha, Al. marsz.

G/H-3
Franciszkaska
B/C-4
Friedleina
I-1
Galla
G/H-1
Garbarska
B-2
Garczyskiego
K-2
Garncarska
H-2/3
Gazowa
E-7
Gsia
K-3
Gowackiego
G-1
Goetla
G-2
Gobia
B-3
Gontyna
G-3
Grabowskiego
A-1
Gramatyka
G-1
Grodzka
C-3/5
Gromadzka
L-4/5
Grottgera
H/I-1
Grunwaldzka
K-1/2
Gryfity
G-3
Grzegrzecka
E-4
Gzymsikw
I-1
Halicka
J-3/4
Helclw
I-1
Herlinga-Grudziskiego K-4
Heweliusza
L-5
Hofmana
F-3
Humberta
H-3
Igrcw
G-2
Ingardena
H-3
Izaaka
D/E-6
Jabonowskich
H/I-3
Jadwigi z obzowa
F/G-1
Jagielloska
B-2/3
Jachowicza
L-2
Jakuba
E-6
Jaskcza
H-3
Joselewicza
J-3
Jzefa
D/E-6
Jzefitw
H-1
Kadecka
G-1
Kalwaryjska
I/J-5
Kamienna
I/J-1
Kamieskiego
I/J-5
Kanonicza
C-4/5
Kapelanka
H-4/5
Kapucyska
A/B-3
Karowicza
H-2
Karmelicka
A/B-1/2
Kasztelaska
G/H-3
Kazimierza Odnowiciela K-1
Kazimierza Wielkiego G/H-1
Kielecka
K-1/2
Kiekowskiego
K/L-4
Kijowska, Al.
G/H-1/2
Kiliskiego
A-7
Klimeckiego
K/L-4
Kmieca
H-1
Kobierzyska
H-5
Kochanowskiego
A-1/2
Koletek
C-6
Kotaja
E-3
Komandosw
I-4/5
Konarskiego
H-2
Konfederacka
A-7
Konopnickiej
A/B-5/7
Konwisarzy
F-1/2
Kopernika
D/E-3
Kordylewskiego
K-2/3
Kociuszki
H-3
Kosynierw
L-2
Kotlarska
K-3
Kolarska
L-5
Krakowska
D-6/7
Krasickiego
I-5
Krasiskiego, Al.
H-3
Kraszewskiego
H-3
Kredowa
F-5
Kremerowska
A-1
Krlewska
H-1
Krlowej Jadwigi
F/G-2/3
Krtka
C-1
Krowoderska
C-1
Krupnicza
A/B-2/3
Krzemionki
J-5
Krzesawicka
L-1
Krzywa
C-1
Krzywda
L-4/5
ks. Kordeckiego
C-6/7
Ksicia Jzefa
F/G-4
Kujawska
H-1
Kupa
E-6
Kurkowa
J-2
Kurniki
D-1
Kwartowa
L-1
Lanckoroska
K-5
Lea
F/H-1/2
Legionw Pisudskiego J-4/5
Lenartowicza
H/I-1/2
Leszczynowa
F-3
Lewkowa
E-6
Limanowskiego
J/K-4
Lipowa
K-4
Litewska
H-1
Loretaska
A-2/3
Lubelska
I-1
Lubicz
D/E-2
Lublaska
K-1
Lubomirskiego
J/K-2
Ludowa
K-5
Ludwinowska
I-4/5
Lwowska
J-K/4
obzowska
B-1/2
Madaliskiego
A-6
Maa
A-4
Malczewskiego
F/G-3-4
May Rynek
C-3
Masarska
K-3
Matejki, Pl.
I/J-2
Mazowiecka
H/I-1
Meiselsa
D-6
Metalowcw
E-3/4
Mickiewicza, Al.
H-2
Michaowskiego
A-1/2
Michaowskiego
H/I-2
Mikoajska
C/D-3
Miodowa
D/E-5/6
Mitery
I-5
Mlaskotw
H-3
Myska
K-1
Mogilska
K/L-1/2
Moniuszki
K-2
Monte Cassino
A-7
Montelupich
I-1
Mosinicza
K-2
Mostowa
D/E-7
Na Grdku
D-3
Na Przejciu
E-6
Na Szaniec
L-3
Na Ustroniu
I-4
Na Zjedzie
J-4
Nadwislanska
J-4
Nawojki
G-2
Obona
H-1
Odlewnicza
F-1/2
Odrowa
I-1
Ofiar Dbia
L-3
Ogrodowa
D-1
Oleandry
H-2/3
Olszaska
K-1
Orawska
I-5
Orzeszkowej
C-6/7
Owcy-Orwicza
F-3
Paderewskiego
C/D-1
Paproci
L-4
Parkowa
J-5
Patynw
G-4
Pauliska
C-6/7
Pawia
D-1/2
Pawlickiego, ks.
H-4/5
Pdzichw
I-1/2
Piastowska
F/G-1/3
Piekarska
C/D-7
Pietrusiskiego
G-4/5
Pijarw
K/L-1
Pijarska
C/D-2
Pisudskiego
A/B-3/4
Piwna
J-4
Pl. Baw
E-6
Pl. Bernardyski
C-5
Pl. Biskupi
B/C-1
Pl. Bohaterw Getta
J-4
Pl. gen. Sikorskiego
A-3
Pl. Inwalidw
H-2
Pl. Kossaka
A-5
Pl. Mariacki
C-3
Pl. Matejki
D-1/2
Pl. Na Groblach
B-4/5
Pl. Nowy
D-6
Pl. Sowiaski
C-1
Pl. Serkowskiego
J-4/5
Pl. Szczepaski
B-2
Pl. w. Ducha
D-2
Pl. w. Marii Magdaleny C-4
Pl. Wolnica
D-7
Pl. Wszytkich witych C-4
Paszowska
L-4
Pod Kopcem
F-3
LISTINGS INDEX
Pod Kopcem, Al.
K-5
Podbrzezie
J-3
Podbrzezie
D-5/6
Podgrska
E-7
Podchorych
G-1
Podskale
I/J-5
Podwale
B-2/3
Podzamcze
B/C-5
Pokoju, Al.
K/L-2/3
Pkole
L-3
Pomorska
H-1
Portowa
K/L-4
Poselska
B/C-4
Powile
A/B-5
Powronicza
A-6
Powstacw lskich, Al.
J/K-5
Powstacw Wielkopolskich,
Al.
K/L-4/5
Powstania Warszaw. Al.
K-2/3
Prdnicka
I-1
Prandoty
J/K-1
Praska
G/H-4
Prusa
H-3
Przedwionie
I-4/5
Przemysowa
K-4
Przybyszewskiego
F-1
Puaskiego
A-6/7
Racawicka
H-1
Radziwiowska
E-2/3
Rajska
A-2
Rakowicka
J/K-1/2
Reformacka
A/B-2
Rkawka
J/K-4
Retoryka
A-4
Reymana
G-2
Reymonta
G/H-2
Rodackiego
J/K-5
Rana
A-6
Ruczaj
F/G-5
Rybaki
I/J-4
Rybna
L-4/5
Rynek Dbnicki
A-6
Rynek Gwny
C-3
Rynek Kleparski
C/D-1
Rynek Podgrski
J-4
Rzeszowska
E-6
Rzenicza
K-3
Sdowa
K-2
Salezjaska
G/H-5
Salwatorska
H-3
Sandomierska
A/B-6
Sarego
C/D-4/5
Saska
L-4/5
Senacka
C-4
Senatorska
H-3
Siedleckiego
E-4/5
Siemieskiego
G/H-1
Siemiradzkiego
A-1
Sienkiewicza
H-1
Sienna
C-3/4
Skaeczna
C/D-7
Skalica
F-5
Skarbiskiego
G-1
Skawiska
C/D-7
Skodowskiej-Curie
D/E-3
Skwerowa
A-7
Sawkowska
C-2/3
Somiana
H-4/5
Soneckiego
K-1
Sonecznikowa
F-3
Sowackiego, Al.
H/I-1
Smocza
B-6
Smolesk
A/B-4
Smolki
I/J-5
Sobieskiego
I-2
Sobieskiego Jana III A/B-1
Sotyka
E-3/4
Spasowskiego
A/B-1
Spiowa
F-1/2
Starowilna
D/E-4/6
Staszica
I-1
Stawarza
J-5
Stefana Batorego
A/B-1
Stoczniowcw
L-4
Stolarska
C-3/4
Stradomska
C/D-5/6
Straszewskiego
I-3
Strzelcw
K-1
Strzelecka
E-2
Studencka
A/B-3
Sukiennicza
C-6
Supniewskiego
K-1/2
Swoszowicka
J-5
Symfoniczna
H-2
Syrokomli
H-3
Szablowskiego
F-1
Szafera
K-2/3
Szczepaska
B/C-2/3
Szenwalda
L-1/2
Szeroka
E-6
Szewska
B-2/3
Szklarska
L-4
Szlachtowskiego
G-1
Szlak
I/J-1
Szpitalna
C/D-2/3
Szwedzka
H-4
Szymanowskiego
H-2
lska
I-1
liska
I-5
lusarska
K-4
niadeckiego
J-3/4
w. Agnieszki
C-6
w. Anny
B-3
w. Bronisawy
G-3
w. Filipa
C/D-1
w. Gertrudy
C/D-4/5
w. Idziego
C-5
w. Jacka
H-5
w. Jana
C-2/3
w. Katarzyny
D-6/7
w. Krzya
D-3
w. azarza
J-3
w. Marka
C/D-2/3
w. Sebastiana
C/E-5
w. Stanisawa
C-7
w. Teresy
I-1
w. Tomasza
B/D-2/3
w. Wawrzyca
D/E-6/7
witokrzyska
I-1
Tenczyska
B-4
Tkacka
H-2
Topolowa
J-2
Toruska
G-2
Traugutta
K-4
Trynitarska
D/E-7
Twardowskiego
H-5
Tyniecka
F/H-4/5
Urzdnicza
H-1/2
Wadowicka
I-5
Waowa
K-4
Wandy
K-3
Warmijska
G-1
Warszauera
D/E-6
Warszawska
D-1
Wasilewskiego
A-7
Wska
E-6
Waszyngtona
G-3
Wglowa
D-7
Wenecja
A-3
Westerplatte
D-2/3
Widok
L-3
Wielopole
J-3
Wierzbowa
I-4
Wietora
I-4
Wiolarska
G-4
Wilna
B-3
Wadysawa okietka
I-1
Wociaska
F-1
Wodna
L-5
Wodocigowa
F-4
Wjtowska
H-1
Wolnica, Pl.
J-4
Worcela
D-2
Wrblewskiego
I-1/2
Wrocawska
H/I-1
Wrzesiska
E-4
Wyczkowskiego
G/H-3
Wygoda
A-4
Wyspiaskiego
H-1
Zacisze
D-1/2
Zaktek
H-1
Zamenhofa
D/E-2
Zamkowa
A-6
Zarzecze
F-1
Zatorska
I-4/5
Zauek
K-4
Zegadowicza
A-4
Zieliskiego, gen.
G/H-4
Zwierzyniecka
A/B-4/5
Zwycistwa
L-2/3
Zyblikiewicza
D/E-3/4
Zygmunta Augusta
J-2
elazna
J-1
kiewskiego
K-3
WHERE TO STAY
AAA Krakw Apartments
46
Abel
39
Alef
39
Alf
44
Amadeus
34
Amber
39
andel's Hotel Cracow
32
Antique Apartments
46
Apartmenthouse Grodzka
46
Apartments Cracow
46
Apartments ORLOWSKA
TOWNHOUSE
46
Art-Mont
44
Ascot Hotel
39
Astoria
39
Atrium
40
B&B La Fontaine
46
Basia Hostel
48
Basztowa Guest Rooms
44
Benefis
40
BEST WESTERN Krakw Old Town 35
BEST WESTERN PREMIER Krakow
Hotel
35
Campanile
40
City Hostel
48
Classic
40
Copernicus
32
Cracow Lofts
46
Cybulskiego Guest-rooms
45
Eden
40
Etap Krakw Bronowice
45
Express by Holiday Inn
40
Flamingo Hostel
48
Floryan
40
Fortuna
41
Fortuna Bis
41
Francuski
35
Galaxy
35
Golden Lion Apartments
46
Good Bye Lenin
48
Grand
32
Greg & Tom
48
Grdek
33
Hilton Garden Inn Krakw
36
Holiday Inn Krakow City Center 33
Hotel David
41
Hotel Kazimierz
41
Hotel Kossak
36
Hotel Stary
33
Hotel Unicus
36
Chopin Cracow
40
Ibis Krakw Centrum
41
Jordan
41
Kadetus
45
Karmel
41
Kazimierz's Secret Apartments 46
Klezmer Hois
42
Komorowski Luxury Guest Rooms 33

Krakow City Apartments
46
Maltaski
42
Mama's
48
Matejko
36
Mikoaj
42
Momotown
48
Morawica
47
Mundo
49
Nathan's Villa Hostel
49
Neohotel Airport
47
Niebieski Art Hotel & SPA
34
Novotel Krakw Bronowice
36
Novotel Krakw Centrum
37
Off White Business & Leisure
Apartments
46
Old Time
42
Panorama
45
Park Inn by Radisson
42
Pink Panther's Hostel
49
Pod Kamykiem
47
Pod R
37
Pod Wawelem
42
Pollera
43
Polonia
43
Polski Pod Biaym Orem
37
Pugetw
37
Quality System - Hotel Krakw 45
Qubus Hotel Krakw
37
Queen Boutique Hotel
38
Radisson Blu
34
Red Brick
47
Red Kurka
47
Rezydent
38
Royal
43
Rubens
45
Rubinstein
38
Ruczaj
43
Saski
43
Senacki
38
Sheraton Krakw
34
Sleeping in Krakw
47
Start
45
Sympozjum
38
Tango House B&B
43
The Bonerowski Palace
34
The Secret Garden Apartments 47
The Secret Garden Hostel
49
Tournet
46
Venetian House
47
Wawel
44
Wentzl
38
Wielopole
44
Wyspiaski
44
RESTAURANTS
77 Sushi
Akropolis
73
55
Nowa Huta Street Register

Andersa, al., gen.
M/N-1/3
Artystw
N-3
Bardosa
T-4
Batalionu Parasol
M-1
Boruty-Spiechowicza, gen.
M-2/3
Bulwarowa
P/R-1/4
Centralny, pl.
N/O-3
Cerchw
P-4
Daniowskiego
R-4
Gajocha
O-3/4
Gardy-Godlewskiego, pk.
O-2/3
Jana Pawa II, al.
M/R-3/4
Klasztorna
R-5
Kleinera
T-1
Kocmyrzowska
M/N-1
Lehra-Spawiskiego
T-1
Ludmierska
N-1/2
empickiego
S-1
Mierzwy
O/R-3/4
Mocickiego
O/P-1
Obrocw Krzya
N-1
Orkana
P/R-3
Padniewskiego, bp.
M-4
Przyjani, al.
N/O-2/3
Ptaszyckiego
R/T-4/5
R, al.
O-1/2
Rydza-migego, marsz.
M/P-1/2
Sieroszewskiego
P/R-5
Solidarnoci, al.
O/T-1/3
Stalowa
O-1
Struga
P-2
Tomickiego, bp.
M-3/4
Ujastek
T-1
Ujastek Mogilski
T-2/4
Wakowicza
S-1
Wwozowa
S-1
Winiowy Sad
M-2
Wojciechowskiego
P-1
Zachemskiego
P-4/5
Zuchw
P-3/4
eromskiego
O/P-1/2
161
Symbol Key
P Air conditioning
A Credit cards accepted
O Casino
H Conference facilities
T Child friendly
U Facilities for the disabled
R Internet
L Guarded parking
F Fitness centre
G No smoking
K Restaurant
X Smoking room available
D Sauna
C Swimming pool
E Live music
W Wi-Fi
6 Animal friendly
S Take away
I Fireplace
J Old Town location
Y Tourist Card accepted V Home delivery

Al Dente
Alef
Amadeus
Amarone
Amarylis
Ambasada ledzia
Ancora
Aperitif
Aqua e Vino
Ariel
Asia to Go
Avanti Ristorante
Awiw
Bagelmama
Bagelmama
Balaton
Bar Grnik
Bar Grodzki
Bar Smak
Bar Targowy
Baroque
Bei Jing
Biaa Ra
Bollywood Restaurant & Bar
Bombaj Tandoori
Bordo
Buddha
Burrito Buffet
C.K. Browar
C.K. Dezerter
Cafe Mynek
Carlito
Ceska Chodba
City Lunch Cafe
COCA
Coltrane Restaurant & Music Bar
Copernicus
Cosa Nostra
Cyrano de Bergerac
Czary
Da Pietro
Dawno Temu Na Kazimierzu
Delecta
Deli Bar
Diego & Bohumil
Diego & Bohumil
Dominikaska 2
Dynia Resto Bar
Dynia Resto Bar
Edo Fusion
Edo Sushi
Ekobistro Papuamu
Europejska
Fabryka Pizzy
Farina
Figa z Makiem
Floriaska
Genji Premium Sushi
Globe Cafe
Glonojad
Gociniec Polski
Gospoda Koko
Gospoda Koko
Grande Grill
67
74
57
67
58
87
58
58
67
74
68
67
77
53
54
56
76
77
77
76
58
53
77
56
56
77
56
76
78
79
86
67
53
78
68
58
58
67
54
79
69
75
69
56
54
75
59
54
59
54
73
87
54
69
86
59
59
73
59
87
79
79
87
50
Green Way
Gruziskie Chaczapuri
Hard Rock Cafe
Haweka
Horai
Hot Chili
Chata
Chili & Cynamon
Chimera
Chimera Salad Bar
Chopskie Jado
Il Calzone
Il Forno
Indus Tandoor
InVito Pizza & Pasta
Irish Pub Nic Nowego
Jarema
Jeff's
Karczma Staropolska
Kawaleria Szara Smaku
Klezmer Hois
Konik na Biegunach
Kuchnia i Wino
Kuchnia u Doroty
Kura
La Campana Trattoria
La Fontaine
Leonardo
Love Krove
Main Square
Mamma Mia
Manzana
Marchewka z Groszkiem
Marmolada
McDonald's
Media Aetas U Mistrza Jana
Metropolitan
Metropolitan
Mita RestoBar
Milano
Milk & Co
Mid i Wino
Mid Malina
Miyako Sushi
Moaburger
Momo
Morskie Oko
Musso Sushi
No Bo
Nostalgia
Nova Resto Bar
Od Zmierzchu Do witu
Ogniem i Mieczem
Olive Tree Restro
Opera Cafe Pub Restaurant
Padre
Paese
Papryczki 5
Paranoya
Percheron Restaurant
Pimiento
Pizzeria Cyklop
Pod Anioami
87
55
50
79
52
57
78
86
78
68
78
69
69
57
70
54
60
80
50
80
80
75
60
60
80
73
70
54
70
50
60
70
75
80
80
68
81
54
60
61
70
61
81
81
73
50
87
81
74
55
81
61
82
82
61
61
62
76
71
57
82
75
71
82
162
LISTINGS INDEX
Pod Baranem
Pod Lwem
Pod R
Pod Socem
Pod Temid
Pod Wawelem
Poezja Smaku
Polakowski
Polskie Jado Kuchnia Polska i
Ocienne
Polskie Smaki
Portobello
Portofino
Restauracja Alrina
Restauracja Gessler we
Francuskim
Restauracja Unicus
Restaurant Cafe Oraneria
Restaurant No. 7
Resto Illuminati
Rooster
Roti Roti
Rubinstein
Russian Enso
Samui
Ssiedzi
Scandale Royal
Sioux Classic
Smak Ukraiski
SomePlace Else
Starka
Stodoa 47
Studio Qulinarne
Studnia ycze
Sushisquare
Szara
Szara
Szara Kazimierz
Taco Mexicano El Pueblo
The Olive
The Piano Rouge
Touch Inn
Trattoria da Cesare
Trattoria Soprano
Trufla
Trzy Papryczki
Trzy Rybki
U Babci Maliny
U Stasi
U Zalipianek
U Ziyada
Vanilla Sky
Vega
Vesuvio
Vinci
Vintage
Virtuoso
W Starej Kuchni
Warsztat
Wentzl
Wesele
Wierzynek
Winoteka Winoman
Winiowy Sad
Wok
Yellow Dog
Yummie
Zapiecek Polskie Pierogarnie
Zazie Bistro
Zen Restaurant & Sushi Bar
82
83
62
83
76
83
83
83
84
84
71
76
62
84
62
62
62
64
52
57
64
55
86
84
64
52
86
52
84
84
64
71
74
54
65
65
76
65
65
65
71
71
66
72
66
84
68
85
85
66
87
72
72
72
72
85
76
66
85
85
66
85
53
52
52
87
54
74
CAFS
4D Gelato Caffe
Bar 13
Cafe Culca
Cafe Gobia 3
Cafe Lunch Bar Wierzynek
Cafe Sza
Camelot
Camera Cafe
Cupcake Corner
Europejska
Cheder
Chocoffee
Jama Michalika
Karma Organic Coffee
Kolanko N6
La Petite France
Massolit Books & Caf
Mufinka Cafe
88
88
88
88
88
88
88
88
89
89
89
89
89
89
90
90
90
88
Nowa Prowincja
Noworolski
Pierwszy Lokal...
Pijalnia Czekolady Wedla
Pracownia
Royal Art Cafe
Ul Lala Cukiernia & Lunch Time
90
90
90
90
90
90
90
NIGHTLIFE
Alchemia
102
Aloha Caf
102
Awaria
91
Baccarat
98
Bar 13
99
Baroque
91
BeerGallery - Kazimierz
102
Betel
91
Bdne Koo
98
BlueXL Bar
97
Bomba
91
BonTon
98
Boogie
98
Budda Drink & Garden
91
Bull Pub
92
Bunkier Cafe
92
Cafe Kalashnikov
102
Cafe Szafe
92
Centrala
98
Cie
99
Cocon Music Club
97
Diva Music Gallery
99
Dym
92
English Football Club
93
Eszeweria
102
Face Cafe
93
Forty Kleparz
99
Frantic
99
Hard Rock Cafe
93
Harris Piano Jazz Bar
98
House Of Beer
93
Cheers Pub
92
Imbir
100
Irish Mbassy
93
93
Jazz Rock Caf
100
Klub Pauza
100
Klub Pikarski Poker
94
Klub Pod Jaszczurami
100
Klub Re
94
Krlicze Oczy
102
Le Scandale
103
Les Couleurs
103
Lizard King
94
Miejsce
103
Ministerstwo
100
Mleczarnia
103
Moment Resto Bar & Music
103
Mostowa Art Cafe
103
Night Club 66
101
No. 7 Bar
94
Omerta
103
Opera Cafe Pub Restaurant
94
Paparazzi
94
Pauza
95
Pikny Pies
95
Pod Papugami Irish Pub
95
Poligamia
95
Pozytywka
102
Propaganda
103
Prozak
101
QUBE
95
Rdza
101
Russian Enso
101
Salt & Co
96
Semper Felix
103
Shakers
101
Shisha Club
101
Singer
103
SomePlace Else
96
Spoem
96
Sports Pub
96
Stalowe Magnolie
98
Stary Port
96
wita Krowa
97
Taawa
102
Taboo Gentlemen's Club
101
The Piano Rouge
98
Vis a Vis
97
Wine Garage
99
Winiarnia Rest. Klimaty Poudnia 99
Features Index
Accommodation at a Glance
Adult Entertainment
Barbican
Basic Data
Breakfast
Carolling
Cemeteries
City Card
Climate
Cloth Hall
Cracovian Cooking A-O
Cracovian Cooking P-Z
Currency Exchange
Czesaw Miosz
Dining At A Glance
Disaster at Smolensk
Dragons Bones
Floriaska Street
Fryderyk Chopin
Guided Tours
Have Your Say
Hot Beer?
Christmas in Cracow
Jagiellonian University
Jazz Clubs
Kazimierz Puaski
Krakw Historical Timeline
Krakow train station
Krakus Mound
Language Smarts
Late Night Eats
Liban Quarry
Local Likes & Dislikes
Mail & Phones
Main Market Square
Market Values
Memories of Lenin
Milk Bars
New Years Parties
Nightlife At A Glance
Pczki
Plac Nowy
Plac Szczepaski
Plac Wolnica
Polish Name Days (Imieniny)
Polish Vodka
Public Transport
Quick Currency Convertor
Quick Eats
Rynek Underground
Shopping
Schindler's Factory
Smoking
Stained Glass in Krakow
The Hejna
The Legend of Wanda
The Maluch
The Monster - Amon Goeth
The Nowa Huta Cross
The Obwarzanek
The Wawel Chakra
The Zbruch Idol
Tipping Tribulations
Tyskie Brewery
Wine Bars
Witkacy
32
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115
20
54
49
36
20
20
112
74
75
153
37
50
34
119
109
58
108
56
79
8
40
98
39
104
15
126
22
87
127
64
21
113
21
131
76
62
92
70
121
116
120
60
96
17
21
68
110
12
126
86
111
105
131
45
127
130
55
117
117
52
114
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43

Kraków: December 2011 - January 2012

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Kraków: December 2011 - January 2012

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Hotels Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

What and where to buy

Culture & Events

Maps & Index

Krakw In Your Pocket

City Centre Map

Company office & Accounts

Krakw In Your Pocket

Download Europes best

Editor Garrett Van Reed

Text and photos copyright WIYP Sp. z o. o.

Sales & Circulation

Dzie witego Mikoaja

Few places in Europe seem more suited for the holiday

Krakw In Your Pocket

Three Kings Day

photo: Artim Sp. z o. o. archive

The spirit of the holiday season is kept strong across the

poppy-seed pastries, stuffed cabbage rolls (gobki), herring

Krakw In Your Pocket

Radisson Blu Hotel

FOR OUR GUESTS

New Years Eve Ball for kids

HOLIDAY SHOPPING GUIDE

Krakw In Your Pocket

ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT

Jordan D-2, ul. Pawia 8, tel. (+48) 12 422 60 91, www.

City Tourist Information ul. Kpt. M. Medweckiego 1

John Paul II Krakow Balice International Airport

Krakw In Your Pocket

ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT

Krakow Shuttle K-4, ul. Zabocie 25/5, tel. (+48) 510

Krakw Train Station

December 2011 - January 2012

ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT

ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT

All you need to rent a car in PL is a credit card and a valid

Acecar C-3, ul. Bracka 8/1a, tel. (+48) 508 13 36

Dragon-VIP J-4, ul. Rejtana 7, tel.

Krakw In Your Pocket

Joka D-2, ul.

Not the dodgy enterprise it once was, most taxis are

While Krakow has no underground metro system it does

Barbakan Taxi tel. (+48) 12 196 61, www.taxi.

City Taxi tel. (+48) 12 196 21.

Mega Taxi tel. (+48) 12 196 25, www.megataxi.eu.

Sixt ul. Kpt. M. Medweckiego 1 (Krakow Airport), tel.

Radio Taxi Wawel tel. (+48) 12 196 66, www.

December 2011 - January 2012

ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT

Krakw In Your Pocket

ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT

December 2011 - January 2012

Mail & Phones

The enterprising tourist should

Prices in Poland are still fairly competitive despite

necessary documents; if there is any doubt about the value

Health & Emergency

Krakw In Your Pocket

swollen foot you cant put weight on and vague memories of

Quick Currency Convertor

Institute of Meteorology and Water Management,

Czarny Florian D-6, ul. Podbrzezie 2, tel. (+48)