Beruflich Dokumente
Kultur Dokumente
Photo
courtesy
of
Shannon
Bower
Photography.
Do
not
copy
or
use
photos
without
permission
www.shannonbower.com
You
must
not
use
my
photos
for
advertising
your
finished
products
as
these
images
are
copyrighted
and
only
I
have
the
authority
to
use
them.
You
must
have
your
own
photos
taken
of
your
finished
product.
MATERIALS
REQUIRED:
Bulky
yarn
(5-6wpi)
x
100
yards
in
main
colour
(MC)
Light
worsted
(double
knitting
or
8ply)
yarn
x
approximately
30
yards
for
frilly
edges
in
contrasting
colour
(CC)
A
pair
of
US
size
11
(8mm)
needles
4.5mm
crochet
hook
A
knitting
safety
pin
Scissors
Needle
0.5
(1cm)
wide
Satin
ribbon
85
(216cm)
Page
|
1
GAUGE:
Using
8mm
needles,
in
stockinette
st
(k
one
row,
p
one
row),
6
st
by
8
rows
is
approximately
2
x
2
(5
x
5cm)
SIZING:
Made
to
fit
newborn
only.
Hat
should
fit
baby
with
head
circumference
approximately
14
(35-36cm)
Laid
flat,
the
finished
pants
should
measure
approximately
6.5
(16.5cm)
wide
and
8
(20cm)
long.
SKILL
LEVEL:
Intermediate
ABBREVIATIONS:
CC
Contrasting
colour
MC
Main
colour
st
stitch
k
knit
p
purl
WS
wrong
side
RS
right
side
k2
tog
knit
two
stitches
together
p2
tog
purl
two
stitches
together
yfwd
yarn
forward
(bring
your
yarn
forward
from
the
back
of
your
work
to
the
front
as
though
you
are
doing
a
purl
stitch)
sl
st
slip
stitch
sc
single
crochet
dc
double
crochet
sk
-
skip
HAT:
Using
8mm
knitting
needles
and
MC
yarn,
cast
on
34
st
Row
1
(WS):
k
Row
2
(RS):
p
Rows
1
and
2
form
the
stockinette
pattern.
Continue
alternating
rows
1
and
2
until
you
reach
row
12.
End
on
row
12
(purl
row)
Your
piece
of
work
should
measure
around
3.25
(8cm)
tall,
If
your
piece
of
work
is
too
short,
continue
working
the
stockinette
stitch
pattern
until
you
reach
the
desired
length,
but
make
sure
you
end
on
a
purl
row
so
that
you
are
ready
for
the
crown
shaping
on
the
right
side.
CROWN
SHAPING
Row
13:
*k3,
k2
tog**,
repeat
from
*
to
**
to
last
4
st,
k4
(28st)
Row
14:
p
(28st)
Row
15:
*k2,
k2
tog**,
repeat
from
*
to
**
to
end
(21st)
Row
16:
p
(21st)
Row
17:
*k1,
k2
tog**,
repeat
from
*
to
**
to
end
(14st)
Row
18:
p2,
*p2
tog,
p2**,
repeat
from
*
to
**
to
end
(11st)
Cast
off
11
st.
Leave
a
length
of
yarn
about
30
(76cm)
in
length
and
then
cut
the
yarn.
You
will
need
this
tail
of
yarn
for
stitching
up
the
back
of
the
bonnet.
The
bonnet
will
not
lay
flat,
but
you
can
still
measure
the
length
and
it
should
be
approximately
4.75(12cm)
in
length.
Page
|
2
FINISHING
Fold
the
bonnet
in
half
with
the
right
side
facing
in.
Using
the
30
(76cm)
tail
of
yarn
that
you
cut
off,
stitch
up
the
two
sides
of
the
bonnet
along
the
cast
off
row
(where
the
needle
is
in
the
image
below)
and
continue
stitching
back
down
along
the
edges
of
rows
together,
but
STOP
stitching
when
you
have
an
un-
sewn
edge
of
about
4
(10cm)
wide
(See
image
below)
The
tape
measure
is
against
the
un-sewn
edge).
You
need
to
keep
this
part
un-stitched
so
that
the
bonnet
can
fit
around
the
babys
head.
Finish
off
any
loose
ends.
Once
the
back
is
stitched
up
and
the
bonnet
is
laid
flat,
it
should
measure
about
4.75
(12cm)
wide
and
5.5
(14cm)
long
along
the
front
edge.
CROCHET
FRILLY
EDGE
IN
CONTRASTING
COLOUR
Row
1
(WS):
With
the
wrong
side
of
the
hat
turned
out
and
using
a
4.5mm
crochet
hook
and
CC
yarn,
sl
st
to
the
front
edge
of
the
bonnet.
Make
sure
you
sl
st
to
the
first
cast
on
st
that
you
made
at
the
start
of
the
hat.
Sc
all
across
the
front
of
the
bonnet
in
each
of
the
remaining
33
st
cast
on
stitches.
33
sc
made.
See
images
below.
Row
2
(RS):
TURN,
ch2,
sk
the
sc
at
the
base
of
the
ch2,
5dc
in
the
next
sc,
*miss
a
sc,
6dc
in
the
next
sc**.
Repeat
from
*
to
**
until
you
reach
the
last
2
sc,
5dc
in
the
next
sc,
sc
in
the
last
sc.
16
frilly
shells
made.
Cut
yarn
and
pull
through
the
last
loop.
Sew
in
loose
ends.
Using
45
(114cm)
or
desired
length
of
satin
ribbon,
thread
this
in
and
out
through
the
gaps
at
the
base
of
each
frilly
shell.
See
image
below.
Pull
the
ribbon
through
and
make
sure
both
ribbon
side
ties
are
even.
Bonnet
is
completed!
Page
|
3
PANTS:
Using
US
size
11
(8mm)
needles
and
MC
yarn,
cast
on
40
st,
BUT
leave
a
long
tail
of
yarn
about
30
(76cm)
at
the
start
for
stitching
up
the
back
of
the
pants
at
the
end.
Row
1
(RS):
k
Row
2
(WS):
p
Row
3
Eyelet
row
(RS):
*k2,
yfwd,
k2tog**
Repeat
from
*
to
**
to
the
end
(40
st
including
the
yfwd
stitches)
Row
4
(WS):
p40
(every
time
you
come
to
a
st
that
looks
like
a
twist,
these
are
the
yfwd
st
from
row
3.
DO
NOT
UNWIND,
but
purl
into
that
st.
This
will
ensure
you
end
up
with
40
st
count
at
the
end
of
this
row)
Rows
3
and
4
create
10
holes
or
eyelets
for
threading
through
the
ribbon
to
tie
the
top
of
the
pants
at
the
end.
Rows
5:
k40
Row
6:
p40
Repeat
rows
5
and
6
until
you
reach
row
18.
Make
sure
you
end
on
row
18
(purl
row)
If
you
measure
the
length
of
your
piece
of
work
now,
it
should
be
around
4.5
(11.5cm)
tall.
The
top
part
of
the
pants
will
roll
in
slightly
so
stretch
it
out
before
you
measure
your
work
to
ensure
you
get
the
right
length.
If
your
piece
of
work
is
too
short,
continue
working
the
stockinette
stitch
pattern
until
you
reach
the
desired
length,
but
make
sure
you
end
on
a
purl
row
so
that
you
are
ready
for
knitting
the
legs
on
the
right
side
of
your
piece
of
work.
KNITTING
THE
LEGS
ONE
SIDE
AT
A
TIME
RIGHT
LEG:
Row
1
(RS):
k20
st.
Put
the
remaining
20
stitches
which
are
still
on
the
left
hand
knitting
needle
on
a
large
knitting
safety
pin.
You
will
work
these
stitches
later.
Page
|
4
Working
with
the
20st
that
are
on
the
knitting
needle
that
you
just
knitted
in
row
1
of
the
right
leg.
Row
2
(WS):
p20
st
Row
3
(RS):
k20
st
Row
4
(WS):
p20
st
Repeat
rows
3
and
4
until
you
reach
row
10
(including
row
1
of
the
start
of
the
right
leg).
End
on
row
10
(the
purl
row).
If
you
stretch
out
your
piece
of
work,
the
waist
to
the
bottom
of
the
right
leg
should
measure
approximately
7
(17.5cm).
You
can
make
the
legs
longer,
if
you
wish
or
shorter,
but
just
keep
a
note
of
how
many
rows
you
work
on
the
right
leg
so
that
you
knit
the
same
on
the
left
leg.
Cast
off
in
knit
loosely.
Leave
a
tail
of
yarn
about
20
(51cm)
for
stitching
up
at
the
end.
Cut
yarn
and
pull
through
the
last
st.
LEFT
LEG:
Transfer
the
20st
that
you
had
left
on
the
knitting
safety
pin
back
to
your
knitting
needle.
JOIN
MC
yarn
from
the
skein
back
to
your
piece
of
work
(just
before
the
first
st
on
your
knitting
needle)
Row
1
(RS):
k20
st
Page
|
5
FINISHING:
With
the
RS
of
your
work
facing
you,
fold
your
piece
of
work
in
half
and
join
the
top
of
the
waist
together
so
that
the
right
side
is
now
facing
inwards.
Using
the
yarn
that
you
left
at
the
start
of
the
pants,
sew
the
edges
together
from
the
top
of
the
waist
down
about
4.5
(11.5cm)
Stitch
up
the
sides
of
each
leg
together
using
the
20
(51cm)
tails
of
yarn
that
you
had
left
at
the
end
of
each
leg.
Sew
in
any
loose
ends
and
cut
excess
yarn.
Turn
pants
the
right
way
around.
CROCHET
FRILLY
SHELL
BORDERS:
The
bottom
of
each
pant
leg
should
have
20
cast
off
st.
Using
a
4.5mm
crochet
hook,
join
with
a
sl
st
to
one
of
the
back
loops
of
a
cast
off
st.
Working
in
the
BACK
LOOPS
ONLY,
Ch2,
5dc
in
the
same
st
as
the
ch2,
miss
a
st,
*6dc
in
the
next
st,
miss
a
st**.
Repeat
from
*
to
**
to
the
end.
Join
with
a
sl
st
to
the
top
of
the
first
frilly
shell.
(10
frilly
shells
made).
Cut
yarn,
pull
through
the
last
loop
and
sew
in
loose
ends.
Page
|
6
Repeat
the
frilly
shell
borders
with
the
other
pant
leg.
WAIST
TIES:
Using
40
(102cm)
of
satin
ribbon
(or
any
desired
length),
thread
this
in
and
out
through
the
eyelet
holes
around
the
waist
of
the
pants,
starting
from
the
front.
Tie
a
bow
to
finish.
This
pattern
cannot
be
copied
or
redistributed
in
any
way.
It
is
protected
under
copyright
law.
You
may
sell
your
finished
product,
but
please
kindly
refer
back
to
me
as
the
original
pattern
designer
and
my
online
store
www.etsy.com/monkeymoomoo33
You
must
not
use
my
photos
for
advertising
your
finished
products
as
these
images
are
also
copyrighted
and
only
I
have
the
authority
to
use
them.
You
must
have
your
own
photos
taken
of
your
finished
product
to
sell.
Page
|
7