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1.

Cutting for a Corpulent Figure

Ow = chest
Rh (Rckenhhe)= depth of scye
Tl = waist length
L = length
Bb = bust width
W = neck point
Rb (Rckenbreite) = back width
Rckteil = Back Panel
Rb is short for Rckenbreite. rh to W = 1/4 Rb
Rh is short for Rckenhhe. Rh to W = depth of scye `+ 1cm
Tl to W = waist length
L to W = length

tl to Tl = 1 to 1.5cm
Neck seam width from behind
H to W = 1/6th neck width + 2cm
The Back
Rb to W = back width + 2cm
a to Rb = 1cm
Armscye width
Ad to R = 1/8th chest + 3cm
Side seam
S = 1/2 R to Ad
S to s = draw a vertical line 1-1.5cm to the left of s
Forepart
Front strap
Ah to Ad = R to Rb - 2cm
al to Ah = 3cm
Chest width
Bb to Ad = 1/4 chest measure - 3cm

2. Stooped Figures

Kgr = height
Ow = chest
krp. Rh = measured depth of scye = 25cm
prop. Rh = proportionate depth of scye = 23.5cm
krp. Rb. = measured back width = 22cm
prop Rb = proportionate back width = 21cm
Hw = neck width
Tw = waist
Gw = seat
The comparison of the measured and proportionate measures allows one to see that the
stance is erect or stooping. A person of normal stance will have a measured depth of scye and
a proportionate depth of scye that are equal. With a stooping posture, the measured depth of
scye is greater than the proportionate measure.
For example:
measured depth of scye 25cm
prop. depth of scye 23.5cm
Difference 1.5cm
We see aroud 1.5cm difference in posture.
Due to this difference, the back panel must be longer at the top, and the foreparts shorter.
During the drafting of the pattern, the proportionate pattern is first constructed - regardless of
whether the figure is stooped or erect, has square or sloped shoulders, is long or short waisted
- and then the draft altered according to the difference in posture. The three divisions of the
chest can be drawn up with the supplementary measurements.

3. Erect Figures

4. Square and Sloping Shoulders

Citava knjiga dobrih ideja! Srecna sam sto sam je


nasla!

...Ima jos...

...Ima jos...

You might also like:

Today I want to share how to make this cute block zip pouch. I made 2 of them long ago and
shared my idea with Korean bloggers.
They loved it so much and many people still use my photo tutorial from time to time.
Actually, I got this idea from a talented Korean sewer so I have to give her credit for that.
I hope you will love this pouch as much as you liked my other creations .

*numbers are millimeter


sorce: http://chicbora.com

QU A RTA- F EI R A , 2 2 D E AG O S TO D E 2 0 1 2

Sapatinhos de beb em tecido - Passo a passo e molde

Senhoritas, como esto?


A Las ganhou da minha me um sapatinho em tecido e ela realmente adorou. Ela anda numa fase
que diz que todos os sapatos "machuca mame" e eu acabo colocando sempre o mesmo. Ento
decidi pegar algumas ideias pra eu mesma fazer um pra ela. Esse foi o PAP mais bem explicado
que j vi at agora de sapatinhos de beb.
Espero que ajude as mames que como eu, precisam de um tutorial bem explicadinho, rs.
Achei AQUI

sapatinhos em feltro e em tecido com molde

and I'll be teaching you how to make them right here.

Now these ubiquitous shortalls are a very basic garment - classic lines,
classic boy fabric. You've probably seen ones like these anywhere from nofrills department stores to high-end boutique catalogs. Nothing out of the
ordinary, but very versatile and adaptable for any number of different

looks. They're a little more grown-up than rompers, but easier to fit than
pants because they're roomy at the waist and adjustable at the shoulders.

A digression before we begin:

I've often been asked how to make a handmade garment look more
"professional". That's a hard word to define - does it mean
"Sewn by experts"?

"Could be bought in a store"?

"Could be seen in a clothing catalog"?

All of the above?


I'm not sure which it is, so I'll instead say this: it's often from the details of
a product that one can tell the care that has been taken in its construction.
While we're working together on these shortalls, I'd like to show how some
simple details can make a great difference in how they turn out:

1 Fabric and color


Wherever possible, use apparel fabric. Apparel fabrics have a good weight,
feel and drape that allow them to sit and hang well on the body. Also, many
apparel fabrics have some give (stretch) to them that is absent from
regular cottons so they feel comfortable when worn. Children, especially,
appreciate this. Apparel fabrics tend to be predominantly solid rather than
funky, and fun boy fabrics are particularly difficult to find. So it can be
tempting to turn to quilting cotton. Not the best idea to make an entire
garment out of that. If you love color and print, add that designer cotton
as accents instead - a colorful pocket, a faced hem, peekaboo lining.

Our shortalls today are made of blue denim - solid, sturdy, great weight,
but not very interesting alone. We'll add five patch pockets in a
coordinating-colored large-check print which we repeat in the facing. Still
all blue and not very interesting. To make everything pop, we'll add a very
contrasting red-and-white striped piping- but in tiny amounts so it doesn't
overwhelm. Our buttons - red - will draw out the red in the piping.

2 Details
are probably the biggest indicator of the care that has gone into making a
garment. External to the actual design of the garment, pockets, piping,
trim, edging, fastenings are all easy details to add. Think about whether
you want a low- or high- contrast detail i.e. do you want a subtle variation
or do you want it to pop? Then experiment, or look in clothing catalogs for
ideas.

3 Top-stitching
is one of the easiest ways to make a product look finished. You can use the
thicker top-stitching thread (and the accompanying top-stitching needles
with the larger eyes), to produce the kind of top-stitching you see on jeans.
And you can buy special twin needles or invest in a coverlocker/coverstitch
machine. Faaaaaaaancy. However, you can also do it with regular needles
and regular thread on a regular sewing machine- it's subtler, but you still
get the sense of a job completed. It's personal preference whether you
want a single row or a double row of top-stitching, and how far apart to
sew them. I prefer to do single rows on more formal garments and double
rows on more rugged, casual garments. But this varies too. If you do
double rows, keep them the same width apart throughout the garment for
homogeneity.

In this tutorial, we will be adding top-stitching to the outside (i.e. the right
side) of seams. Those of you more familiar with fell seams may want to sew
those. But we'll be sticking to regular open seams, pressing them to one
side, and top-stitching on the outside. Rather than the traditional brownon-denim, or the more subtle blue-on-blue, we are using red to pull
together the rest of the colors in the garment.

Here is the pattern you can print out, assemble and use to make your own.
I drafted this for my youngest, who is a tall but average-build almost-3year-old. The nice thing about overalls like these is that it is loose by design

and the length of the straps can be customized to fit the wearer. This
means your child can grow into it and, by making slight adjustments to its
width and length, it could fit a younger or older child. There are no zippers,
button plackets or elastic. If you're a beginner, try making just the basic
overalls and skip all the steps in the tutorial that are labeled "optional"
(blue text). If you want to embellish, do the full tutorial.

CLICK HERE TO DOWNLOAD THE PDF PATTERN


There are five templates and one instruction sheet to help you cut out your
pieces. The printable instructions are divided into two parts: the first is for
the basic overalls, and the second includes all the fixings - the waistband
and the pockets. Please note that

there are NO seam allowances included. You will need to add your
own - I'd suggest 3/8" or 1 cm all around, except for the bottom hem GH of
the leg, which should be 1".
the solid lines are stitching lines
the dotted lines are positioning lines for the pockets and waistband
you might want to print out multiple copies of each template so you
can cut out individual body, pocket, waistband and facing pieces for your
layout.
the numbers 1-6 marked on the templates are to help you assemble
the partial pieces to make the full patterns. You will not see these in the
rest of the tutorial.

the letters A-R marked on the templates are for reference of


important sewing points - you will see these in the following tutorial
instructions.

For the basic overalls,

you'll need:
3/4 yard of outer fabric

1/2 yard of lining fabric

Buttons or buckles
in addition to your usual sewing equipment and thread.
The sequence of construction is:
1.
Sew the straps
2.

Sew the inseam FG of each leg (one front and one back body piece)

3.

Sew the crotch seam ADFRK to connect both legs

4.

Sew the side seams

5.

Sew the facing

6.

Attach the straps

7.

Attach the facing

8.

Sew the hems

9.

Attach buttons/buckles

Now let's get started!

Step 1
Make the straps.
With right sides together, sew one lining piece to one outer piece, leaving
the bottom edge KJ open for turning out.
Press the seams open, notch the corners and turn right side out.

Top-stitch all around, except for the open end. Set aside.

Step 2 (Optional)
Make pockets. Go here for the tutorial for these pockets.

Step 3 (Optional)
Pin and top-stitch the front and back pockets in place on the main body
pieces.

Note that the bib pocket (the one on the chest) spans both halves of the
front body piece, so you will attach that later in Step 5.

Step 4
Find one front and one back body piece whose inseam edges line up as
follows:

Flip one piece over so the right sides are together. Align the edges of their
inseams as shown by the black arrow. Sew their inseams together, and
finish the seam allowance (serge or zig-zag stitch). Top-stitch on the right
side. Repeat for the remaining pair of body pieces.

Step 5
Place the two pieces body pairs you made in Step 4 together, right sides
touching. Align the edges of the U-shaped crotch seam ADFRK and sew the
two pieces together. Finish the seam allowances (use serger or use zig-zag

stitch). Press the seam allowance to one side and top-stitch on the right
side.

Now that the crotch and inseam are finished, you may (if desired) sew the
bib pocket in position.
This is what it looks like so far:

You can see the top-stitching along the midline of the garment (the Ushaped crotch seam) and the short inseams.
Step 6 (Optional)

Prepare the waistband. Like the pockets, this is purely decorative. I added
it so that the top edges of the hip pockets would have something to tuck
into.
Sew the piping to both long edges of the right side of the waistband. I find
it helpful to have the same seam allowances for the piping as the
waistband- you can align their edges and sew directly through the actual
stitching lines of both layers.

Step 7 (Optional)
Attach the waistband. Lay the waistband on the front body piece, right
sides together, so that

the stitching line of one of its long sides lies directly on the line QPQ
the seam allowance of that side is above the line QPQ i.e. most of
the waistband lies below the line QPQ.
Sew on the stitching line QPQ to attach the waistband to the body piece.
Flip it over - this is what it should look like with this bottom edge attached:

There is only the tiniest hint of stripes peeking out!

Fold in the seam allowance of the upper edge and pin in place. The upper
edge of the waistband is now along the line EDE.

Top-stitch along this folded edge to secure the upper edge of the
waistband. Top-stitch the lower edge of the waistband to match:

Step 8
Attach the straps. First, transfer from the pattern, and mark, (I used the
head of a pin) the point K on the back body piece.

Align (see arrow) the unfinished edge of one strap with one slanted top
edge of the back body piece so that
their right sides are together
the innermost edge of the strap intersects point K, as shown.
Pin in place.

Repeat for the other strap. You should be able to see that both straps begin
to overlap at point K.

Sew a long basting stitch close to the edge to hold the straps in place. I
removed the marking pin before sewing.

Step 9
Join the body pieces. Position the front and back body pieces so that
their right sides are together

their sides seams align, starting at points C at the bottom of the


armscye.
Sew the side seams, finish the seam allowances (user serger or zig-zag
stitch) and top-stitch on the right side.

Step 10
Sew the facing. Place the facing pieces right sides together. Sew and finish
the side seams. Also finish the bottom edge. If you are using a serger, you
may choose to be done at this point.

Or you could fold in this edge to make a proper hem.

Step 11
Attach the facing. Slip the completed facing into the body from Step 9, so
that their right sides are together.

Align their seam allowances, pin in place, and sew all around the top edge
of the whole ensemble to attach the facing to the body.

Notch the corners and snip the curved seam allowances. This is what it
looks like with the facing on the outside:

Step 12
Now comes the magic! Turn everything right side out and press the seams
flat. It looks almost done!

Top-stitch all around the top edge of the garment

Step 13
Secure the facing. Sew two or three stitches to attach the seam
allowance of the facing to the seam allowance of the body. Do this for both

side seams. This will keep the facing in place so it doesn't flip up when
dressing or undressing. I used a contrasting color for visibility, but you
should use a coordinating thread.

Step 14
Now let's talk about the fastenings. Here are common quick-release buckles
for overallsThe one on the right has two parts: the buckle itself, and an adjustable
sliding loop. You will have to sew the end of the strap around the middle
bar of the sliding loop.
The one on the left is a no-sew buckle -

it is a single integrated piece:

The strap loops through the buckle and stays put.

Regardless of which kind you choose, the button is installed the same way.
You make a small hole in the garment, poke the threaded back stud
through to the front,

position the head on top, and whack it in with a mallet.

There are special setting tools to do this so you don't deform the surface by
pounding directly on it, but I usually just lay the head upside down on a

padded surface, lay the fabric right side down on it, poke the back stud
through the hole, and then pound on the back stud itself.

For this tutorial, we're using buttons and buttonholes. You wouldn't be able
to adjust the strap length after sewing them on, though, so test the straps
out on the wearer beforehand. Also, while the position of the buttonhole is
marked on the pattern, you should make yours as long as is needed for the
button you're using.

Step 15
Complete the leg hems. You can use a fancy coverstitch machine, but I
don't own one. I finish my hems by simply folding them in

and top-stitching them.

Finished!

If you omitted all the embellishments, this will come together really quickly.
But the details are where all the fun is, so give them a shot! You can adapt
this classic pattern for different looks by making some simple changes or
adding details, for example:

Try different pockets.


Try different fabric combinations - but still keep to the sturdier
apparel fabrics like twill, denim, drill, linen, linen or even home-dec weight
fabric. This is a garment meant to be worn over an under layer- it should
have a good weight to fall/hang well, and not cling to that fabric layer
underneath.
Add a contrasting faced hem to the legs.

Add a roll-up cuff with buttoned straps, like this.

Extend the legs into ankle-length trousers for full overalls.

Add faux button plackets (sew a column of buttons and top-stitch a


rectangle around them) to the sides.
Replace the bib pocket with applique (initial, favorite motif).
Add hammer loops, belt loops and tool pockets for a carpenter-pants
look.

I hope you enjoyed learning to sew these shortalls for the boys in your
world. It's simple, and yet you can take it as far as you dare - I love
designs like that. Now for more goodies: tomorrow I'll show you how to
adapt this pattern for girls! So check back here to see what this looks like
in pink AND with a skirt! See you again then!

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MESA MODEL

Mesa Regula

Altura regula

interior de la

Nivelador pa

cualquier su

Permite trab
ligero .

Completame

Freno de dob

Bandeja de

Barra reposa

Permite met

impediment

Altura en Ho
Medidas

65 x 90 cm

75 x 100 cm

80 x 120 cm

90x130 cm

MODELO ILUSTRADOR

Mesa en estructura de acero .

Mesa regulable en altura e inclinacin mediante sistema de 4 manillas en


cada una de las patas

Mesa facilmente plegable .

Pata autoniveladora

Ideal para dibujantes que buscan una mesa prctica y que la altura de
trabajo no sea muy alta.

Altura en horizontal respecto al suelo de 75 a 100 cm

Medidas disponibles de tablero:

75 x 100 cm

80 x 120 cm