Beruflich Dokumente
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Ow = chest
Rh (Rckenhhe)= depth of scye
Tl = waist length
L = length
Bb = bust width
W = neck point
Rb (Rckenbreite) = back width
Rckteil = Back Panel
Rb is short for Rckenbreite. rh to W = 1/4 Rb
Rh is short for Rckenhhe. Rh to W = depth of scye `+ 1cm
Tl to W = waist length
L to W = length
tl to Tl = 1 to 1.5cm
Neck seam width from behind
H to W = 1/6th neck width + 2cm
The Back
Rb to W = back width + 2cm
a to Rb = 1cm
Armscye width
Ad to R = 1/8th chest + 3cm
Side seam
S = 1/2 R to Ad
S to s = draw a vertical line 1-1.5cm to the left of s
Forepart
Front strap
Ah to Ad = R to Rb - 2cm
al to Ah = 3cm
Chest width
Bb to Ad = 1/4 chest measure - 3cm
2. Stooped Figures
Kgr = height
Ow = chest
krp. Rh = measured depth of scye = 25cm
prop. Rh = proportionate depth of scye = 23.5cm
krp. Rb. = measured back width = 22cm
prop Rb = proportionate back width = 21cm
Hw = neck width
Tw = waist
Gw = seat
The comparison of the measured and proportionate measures allows one to see that the
stance is erect or stooping. A person of normal stance will have a measured depth of scye and
a proportionate depth of scye that are equal. With a stooping posture, the measured depth of
scye is greater than the proportionate measure.
For example:
measured depth of scye 25cm
prop. depth of scye 23.5cm
Difference 1.5cm
We see aroud 1.5cm difference in posture.
Due to this difference, the back panel must be longer at the top, and the foreparts shorter.
During the drafting of the pattern, the proportionate pattern is first constructed - regardless of
whether the figure is stooped or erect, has square or sloped shoulders, is long or short waisted
- and then the draft altered according to the difference in posture. The three divisions of the
chest can be drawn up with the supplementary measurements.
3. Erect Figures
...Ima jos...
...Ima jos...
Today I want to share how to make this cute block zip pouch. I made 2 of them long ago and
shared my idea with Korean bloggers.
They loved it so much and many people still use my photo tutorial from time to time.
Actually, I got this idea from a talented Korean sewer so I have to give her credit for that.
I hope you will love this pouch as much as you liked my other creations .
QU A RTA- F EI R A , 2 2 D E AG O S TO D E 2 0 1 2
Now these ubiquitous shortalls are a very basic garment - classic lines,
classic boy fabric. You've probably seen ones like these anywhere from nofrills department stores to high-end boutique catalogs. Nothing out of the
ordinary, but very versatile and adaptable for any number of different
looks. They're a little more grown-up than rompers, but easier to fit than
pants because they're roomy at the waist and adjustable at the shoulders.
I've often been asked how to make a handmade garment look more
"professional". That's a hard word to define - does it mean
"Sewn by experts"?
Our shortalls today are made of blue denim - solid, sturdy, great weight,
but not very interesting alone. We'll add five patch pockets in a
coordinating-colored large-check print which we repeat in the facing. Still
all blue and not very interesting. To make everything pop, we'll add a very
contrasting red-and-white striped piping- but in tiny amounts so it doesn't
overwhelm. Our buttons - red - will draw out the red in the piping.
2 Details
are probably the biggest indicator of the care that has gone into making a
garment. External to the actual design of the garment, pockets, piping,
trim, edging, fastenings are all easy details to add. Think about whether
you want a low- or high- contrast detail i.e. do you want a subtle variation
or do you want it to pop? Then experiment, or look in clothing catalogs for
ideas.
3 Top-stitching
is one of the easiest ways to make a product look finished. You can use the
thicker top-stitching thread (and the accompanying top-stitching needles
with the larger eyes), to produce the kind of top-stitching you see on jeans.
And you can buy special twin needles or invest in a coverlocker/coverstitch
machine. Faaaaaaaancy. However, you can also do it with regular needles
and regular thread on a regular sewing machine- it's subtler, but you still
get the sense of a job completed. It's personal preference whether you
want a single row or a double row of top-stitching, and how far apart to
sew them. I prefer to do single rows on more formal garments and double
rows on more rugged, casual garments. But this varies too. If you do
double rows, keep them the same width apart throughout the garment for
homogeneity.
In this tutorial, we will be adding top-stitching to the outside (i.e. the right
side) of seams. Those of you more familiar with fell seams may want to sew
those. But we'll be sticking to regular open seams, pressing them to one
side, and top-stitching on the outside. Rather than the traditional brownon-denim, or the more subtle blue-on-blue, we are using red to pull
together the rest of the colors in the garment.
Here is the pattern you can print out, assemble and use to make your own.
I drafted this for my youngest, who is a tall but average-build almost-3year-old. The nice thing about overalls like these is that it is loose by design
and the length of the straps can be customized to fit the wearer. This
means your child can grow into it and, by making slight adjustments to its
width and length, it could fit a younger or older child. There are no zippers,
button plackets or elastic. If you're a beginner, try making just the basic
overalls and skip all the steps in the tutorial that are labeled "optional"
(blue text). If you want to embellish, do the full tutorial.
there are NO seam allowances included. You will need to add your
own - I'd suggest 3/8" or 1 cm all around, except for the bottom hem GH of
the leg, which should be 1".
the solid lines are stitching lines
the dotted lines are positioning lines for the pockets and waistband
you might want to print out multiple copies of each template so you
can cut out individual body, pocket, waistband and facing pieces for your
layout.
the numbers 1-6 marked on the templates are to help you assemble
the partial pieces to make the full patterns. You will not see these in the
rest of the tutorial.
you'll need:
3/4 yard of outer fabric
Buttons or buckles
in addition to your usual sewing equipment and thread.
The sequence of construction is:
1.
Sew the straps
2.
Sew the inseam FG of each leg (one front and one back body piece)
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
Attach buttons/buckles
Step 1
Make the straps.
With right sides together, sew one lining piece to one outer piece, leaving
the bottom edge KJ open for turning out.
Press the seams open, notch the corners and turn right side out.
Top-stitch all around, except for the open end. Set aside.
Step 2 (Optional)
Make pockets. Go here for the tutorial for these pockets.
Step 3 (Optional)
Pin and top-stitch the front and back pockets in place on the main body
pieces.
Note that the bib pocket (the one on the chest) spans both halves of the
front body piece, so you will attach that later in Step 5.
Step 4
Find one front and one back body piece whose inseam edges line up as
follows:
Flip one piece over so the right sides are together. Align the edges of their
inseams as shown by the black arrow. Sew their inseams together, and
finish the seam allowance (serge or zig-zag stitch). Top-stitch on the right
side. Repeat for the remaining pair of body pieces.
Step 5
Place the two pieces body pairs you made in Step 4 together, right sides
touching. Align the edges of the U-shaped crotch seam ADFRK and sew the
two pieces together. Finish the seam allowances (use serger or use zig-zag
stitch). Press the seam allowance to one side and top-stitch on the right
side.
Now that the crotch and inseam are finished, you may (if desired) sew the
bib pocket in position.
This is what it looks like so far:
You can see the top-stitching along the midline of the garment (the Ushaped crotch seam) and the short inseams.
Step 6 (Optional)
Prepare the waistband. Like the pockets, this is purely decorative. I added
it so that the top edges of the hip pockets would have something to tuck
into.
Sew the piping to both long edges of the right side of the waistband. I find
it helpful to have the same seam allowances for the piping as the
waistband- you can align their edges and sew directly through the actual
stitching lines of both layers.
Step 7 (Optional)
Attach the waistband. Lay the waistband on the front body piece, right
sides together, so that
the stitching line of one of its long sides lies directly on the line QPQ
the seam allowance of that side is above the line QPQ i.e. most of
the waistband lies below the line QPQ.
Sew on the stitching line QPQ to attach the waistband to the body piece.
Flip it over - this is what it should look like with this bottom edge attached:
Fold in the seam allowance of the upper edge and pin in place. The upper
edge of the waistband is now along the line EDE.
Top-stitch along this folded edge to secure the upper edge of the
waistband. Top-stitch the lower edge of the waistband to match:
Step 8
Attach the straps. First, transfer from the pattern, and mark, (I used the
head of a pin) the point K on the back body piece.
Align (see arrow) the unfinished edge of one strap with one slanted top
edge of the back body piece so that
their right sides are together
the innermost edge of the strap intersects point K, as shown.
Pin in place.
Repeat for the other strap. You should be able to see that both straps begin
to overlap at point K.
Sew a long basting stitch close to the edge to hold the straps in place. I
removed the marking pin before sewing.
Step 9
Join the body pieces. Position the front and back body pieces so that
their right sides are together
Step 10
Sew the facing. Place the facing pieces right sides together. Sew and finish
the side seams. Also finish the bottom edge. If you are using a serger, you
may choose to be done at this point.
Step 11
Attach the facing. Slip the completed facing into the body from Step 9, so
that their right sides are together.
Align their seam allowances, pin in place, and sew all around the top edge
of the whole ensemble to attach the facing to the body.
Notch the corners and snip the curved seam allowances. This is what it
looks like with the facing on the outside:
Step 12
Now comes the magic! Turn everything right side out and press the seams
flat. It looks almost done!
Step 13
Secure the facing. Sew two or three stitches to attach the seam
allowance of the facing to the seam allowance of the body. Do this for both
side seams. This will keep the facing in place so it doesn't flip up when
dressing or undressing. I used a contrasting color for visibility, but you
should use a coordinating thread.
Step 14
Now let's talk about the fastenings. Here are common quick-release buckles
for overallsThe one on the right has two parts: the buckle itself, and an adjustable
sliding loop. You will have to sew the end of the strap around the middle
bar of the sliding loop.
The one on the left is a no-sew buckle -
Regardless of which kind you choose, the button is installed the same way.
You make a small hole in the garment, poke the threaded back stud
through to the front,
There are special setting tools to do this so you don't deform the surface by
pounding directly on it, but I usually just lay the head upside down on a
padded surface, lay the fabric right side down on it, poke the back stud
through the hole, and then pound on the back stud itself.
For this tutorial, we're using buttons and buttonholes. You wouldn't be able
to adjust the strap length after sewing them on, though, so test the straps
out on the wearer beforehand. Also, while the position of the buttonhole is
marked on the pattern, you should make yours as long as is needed for the
button you're using.
Step 15
Complete the leg hems. You can use a fancy coverstitch machine, but I
don't own one. I finish my hems by simply folding them in
Finished!
If you omitted all the embellishments, this will come together really quickly.
But the details are where all the fun is, so give them a shot! You can adapt
this classic pattern for different looks by making some simple changes or
adding details, for example:
I hope you enjoyed learning to sew these shortalls for the boys in your
world. It's simple, and yet you can take it as far as you dare - I love
designs like that. Now for more goodies: tomorrow I'll show you how to
adapt this pattern for girls! So check back here to see what this looks like
in pink AND with a skirt! See you again then!
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MESA MODEL
Mesa Regula
Altura regula
interior de la
Nivelador pa
cualquier su
Permite trab
ligero .
Completame
Freno de dob
Bandeja de
Barra reposa
Permite met
impediment
Altura en Ho
Medidas
65 x 90 cm
75 x 100 cm
80 x 120 cm
90x130 cm
MODELO ILUSTRADOR
Pata autoniveladora
Ideal para dibujantes que buscan una mesa prctica y que la altura de
trabajo no sea muy alta.
75 x 100 cm
80 x 120 cm