CREATIVE

CHARISMA

ALEXANDRA MOR of New York is a force to reckon with, and her secret lies in simplifying and
deconstructing complex ideas, to translate them into avant-garde classics. She dips into an
arsenal of emotions and experiences to create one-off omnipotent pieces where gems take a
central seat and the cursive metal, be it platinum or gold, gently works its way into the design
to hold the gleaming beauties. This savoir-faire underscores Alexandras supremacy in unifying
geometry, femininity and art, where gems, fancy cuts, colour and form integrate in a pictureperfect assemblage of mystifying beauty.
Each of her pieces includes the knife-edged wire, double-claw prongs, and yellow gold
interior lining, a feature dating back to times of yore, when gold was used to line silver pieces
for royals, to prevent oxidation. Alexandras High Jewelry collection is curvaceous and poetic
with soft, organic silhouettes. Elegance and femininity are the hallmarks of this line. Her Vows
line is about storytelling, and the love and commitment involved in crafting each piece.
Alexandra, in an exclusive interview with SHANOO BIJLANI, speaks about her journey from
being a film-maker to a jewellery designer, and the art of bringing an idea to life!

Alexandra

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Mors

The smell of burning yellow ochre

drifts into my studio and complements
the aroma of my morning coffee. I
pause to take it in, surrounded by my
pencils, photos, my sketchbook and...
some loose diamonds. Shapes, lines
and colours run through my head. I
lean into my drafting table, and let my
mind loose. A jewel is about to come
to life.

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CREATIVE

CHARISMA

I found myself on a jewellery

bench in 2004. The first moment
I sat on the bench, cutting,
sawing, measuring, filing,
burning, designing I knew I
(had) found my place.
It felt like home.

You were born in the cradle of creativity your mother was

a seamstress, who made clothes for you until adulthood. Tell
us more about that atmosphere and what triggered in you to
regard bespoke pieces as symbols of power. Youve also done
a short stint as a production assistant in films. Did you also
make films?
My journey into films started when I served as an assistant
director. Later, I moved up through the ranks, from second
assistant director, location manager to production manager
and ended up as a line producer in films, commercials,
TV series and documentaries, both locally in Israel and
internationally. Throughout my journey as a film-maker, I
felt I was missing the knowledge and history of the art and
decided to take a break; I moved to New York and enrolled
in the New School where I learned about film-making and its
history from the best teachers and practices. What attracted
me most in the beginning were mostly the people and talents
I was working with and the exposure to create something that
comes out of an idea: a story, a script, into something bigger
than life. Film is an amazing medium of expression and the
industry itself became one big family to me.
How different is film-making from jewellery making? Are
there any aspects that even today spill over into your present
profession as a designer?
Both jewellery design and film-making are arts of human
expression. They both rely on the small details that play
a major part in the essence that they encapsulate. My
film-making experience helps me daily, as I have a better
understanding of the bigger picture, working independently
with people, budget, production, timeline and bringing it
all to life making the idea a reality. I have learned that
everything is possible, and when there is an obstacle, it
doesnt mean its over, it just means we need to find a new
way to look at it and a new way to solve it. When I started

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Detachable Diamond Bow & Ruby Earrings

A one-of-a-kind pair of detachable contemporary bow earrings made with details
of knife-edged wire and 1mm diamond melee wire. The centre of the bow is set
with emerald-cut diamonds weighing 0.84 carat. The earrings feature rose-cut
rubies weighing 106.94 carats, pear-shaped rubellites weighing 6.88 carats, tear-drop
rubellites weighing 14.80 carats, and pearls. Drop gems are accented with fancy-cut
diamonds with a total weight of 0.35 carat. The detachable components create six
distinct pairs of earrings that are set in platinum on 18-karat yellow gold with the
Alexandra Mor logo.

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CREATIVE

CHARISMA

ASSCHER-CUT HONEY CITRINE &

DIAMOND CURVED RING
A 29-carat Asscher-cut intense honey
citrine ring detailed with double
bands of 1mm knife-edged wire and
1.09 carats of 1mm floating diamond
melee.

As a child I expressed myself

creatively through writing and
drawing. Today, my creative
outlet is designing couture
jewellery, creating heirlooms to
be worn and loved forever.

The ring is set in platinum set on a

1mm 18-karat yellow
gold band with the
Alexandra Mor logo
gallery.

designing, the skills I gained in my film-making years helped

guide me in creating a business.
What made you learn jewellery making?
Love for design and craftsmanship. Jewellery has it all, as
well as history and connection with people.

CUSHION-CUT DEEP-YELLOW CITRINE

& DIAMOND RING
This ring features a
20.37-carat cushioncut deep-yellow citrine
flanked by a pair of
trapezoid-shaped and
baguette citrine and 54
1mm round diamonds
weighing a total of 1.95
carats. The ring is set
in platinum around an
18-karat yellow gold
Alexandra Mor gallery. (Limited
edition of five from the Signature
collection.)

When did you start your own brand?

I took my time to develop my brand voice and design DNA
and launched my brand to the public on December 2010
at Phillips de Pury. I am forever grateful for the opportunity I
have had with Phillips, this is where it all began.
Your creations are very typical bold gems held aloft by
double claws, curvaceous ring shanks ... The structures are
Art Nouveau married with contemporary silhouettes. How
did you arrive at these unique assemblages? Tell us about
your inspirations. What leads you to doing such architectural
pieces?
My inspiration comes from my own personal journey as
a woman and the need to preserve what was given to
us, in a holistic and relevant fashion. My work is a true
juxtaposition of my love for history, the significance of oldworld craftsmanship, merged with contemporary aesthetics
and technology. I have always held a great respect for the
past, and vintage jewellery continues to serve as a source
of inspiration, but I try to translate this into a neo-futuristic
context, in overall design and composition. My collection

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SEPTEMBER-OCTOBER 2015

Diamond Arch Earrings

celebrates the person as a whole, and the exploration of
ones juxtapositions a clients softness versus boldness;
their femininity with an inner edge. Fashion, film noir and the
striking lines of architecture all inspire this.
You create bespoke jewellery for brides-to-be and are happy to
be part of their journey. How do you bring about your aesthetic
strengths as a designer to understand what a customer
requires and make something that has your stamp on it?
I offer clients an opportunity to work along with me and

Set in platinum and 18-karat yellow

gold, the diamond arch earrings are
set with 15.58 carats of green opal
cabochon, 30.02 carats of moonstone
drops, and 4.60 carats of black rutilated
quartz. The total diamond weight of the
diamond arches and four emerald-cut
diamonds is 1.07 carats.

see how I design pieces from sketching and gem selection

to the final product that evokes a unique reflection of their
individuality.
I was born into a family of French couturiers, and was
exposed early on to the power of bespoke creations, while
watching my seamstress mother and aunt at work. A client
could chose from my Signature collection of limited edition
pieces, or a Made-to-Order piece, but I intend to create an
heirloom for the future.
You must be a good listener, observer and an empathiser, or
else you would not understand what your customers want.
Does it feel nice to be part of a couples first steps towards the
journey of togetherness?
It is important that I first find the stone that speaks to my
heart and next, my clients should find the right design that
suits their persona these are the key factors. I gather as
much information as I can by meeting my client who they
continued on page 44

Oval-Cabochon Andean Opal & Diamond Ring

The one-of-a-kind 41.62-carat oval-cabochon Andean blue opal, set on
a double-finger ring, is detailed with Alexandra Mors signature design
elements of curved 1mm floating diamond melee and knife-edged
wire. The ring is set in platinum on 18-karat yellow gold with the
Alexandra Mor logo gallery. The total diamond weight is 5.43 carats.

Brilliant-Cut Diamond &

Sapphire Ring
A one-off diamond ring patterned
with 22 blue sapphire trapezoids
totalling 2.80 carats and a 4.02-carat
brilliant-cut diamond floating in
the centre, surrounded by six 4mm
round diamonds, enhanced by
Alexandra Mor signature details of
1mm knife-edged wire and 1mm
floating
diamond melee.
The platinum
ring is set on an
18-karat yellow
gold Alexandra
Mor logo gallery.

Emerald-Cut Platform
Diamond Bracelet
Three-Stone Kunzite & Diamond Ring
A three-stone ring with platinum on a
1mm 18-karat yellow gold band with the
Alexandra Mor logo gallery, featuring a
26.25-carat centre Asscher-cut kunzite
stone, with two side Asscher-cut kunzites
of 15.96 carats. The three kunzite stones
are set with intricate, intertwined bands,
adorned with Alexandra Mors signature
details of 298 floating diamond melee and
knife-edged double-split prongs.

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The emerald-cut diamond

platform bracelet in platinum
on an 18-karat yellow gold
Alexandra Mor logo gallery,
has Alexandras signature
details of 1mm diamond
melee and knife-edged wires.
(Limited edition of 15.)

creative

charisma

Belt Buckle with Antique Jade,

Diamonds & Baroque Pearls
A unique belt buckle in 18-karat white
and yellow gold set with Alexandra
Mors signature details of 1mm melee
bands and knife-edged wire. Carved
antique green jades set around baroque
grey pearls on a hand-made textured
surface, set with a mix of 1.1m-1.3mm
brilliant-cut diamond melee. The
buckle accompanies a specially tailored
wide cognac crocodile belt.

Emerald & Diamond Flower Earrings

The one-of-a-kind dramatic shoulder-length
pair of diamond earrings with fancy-colour
diamond flowers and a matching pair of
drop-shaped vivid green emeralds weighing
52.58 carats, each asymmetrically encircled
by Alexandra Mor signature details of 1mm
knife-edged wire on a leaf of 1mm floating
diamond melee. The platinum leaves
transition into 18-karat yellow gold and
are connected with 175 graduating natural
fancy-colour matched flower-set diamonds
transitioning from white to greyish-blue, to
green, to peach, to pink and yellow colours.

A Sugarloaf-Cabochon
Emerald & Diamond Ring
A 26.16-carat sugarloafcabochon emerald ring is
set with Alexandra Mors
signature details of double
bands of 1mm knifeedged wire and 0.84 carat
of 1mm floating diamond
melee. Created with a stone
from Gemfields, where
all emeralds are ethically
sourced from mine to market.

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creative

charisma

Pear-Shape Opal and

Diamond Earrings
A pair of pear-shape opal earrings
suspended from a brilliant-cut
diamond detailed with Alexandra
Mors signature floating diamond
melee and knife-edged wire. The
earrings are set in 18-karat white
gold on an 18-karat yellow gold
Alexandra Mor logo gallery accented
with diamond melee.
(Limited edition of five.)

are and what are their design aesthetics and their lifestyle
before I sit down to work. However, my signature details form
the core of every piece as they serve as my anchor. Theyre
crucial as they are the building blocks of my creative DNA.
Sometimes I use my signature details to bring out the beauty
of the stone, and at other times, the essence comes about as
an accent or makes a bold statement.
For a customer, I normally share three top-view pencil
drawing design options. After the client picks out a favourite, I
refine it together with him/her until we arrive at a final design.
I love to take the collaborative approach and I consider it
crucial to the success of the end-designed piece.
This last stage is to transform the sketch into a oneof-a-kind jewel. Once the sketch is approved, I scrutinise
every millimetre of the design and all intricate details. Once I
perfect the design, actual production begins.
All my pieces are handcrafted and made in the USA and
Italy, usually taking me about five weeks to four months to
complete a piece depending on how simple or complicated
the design is.
What is your design philosophy?
My collection is a tangible reflection of my own journey as a
woman to this day. It is through the dialogue and interplay

Snowflake and Baroque Pearl

Cluster Earrings
A pair of diamond earrings composed
of a cluster of petit snowflakes with six
baroque pearls detailed with Alexandra
Mors signature floating diamond melee
and knife-edged wire. The earrings are
set in platinum on an 18-karat yellow
gold Alexandra Mor logo gallery. (Limited
edition of 15.)

of hard and soft; oversized elements and the delicate;

symmetrical and curved; feminine touches and edgy nature
with retrospect to the past, present and future.

I love to combine old-world

craftsmanship with contemporary
styles and techniques. By
and large, it came from my
background at home, along with
a strong love for design, fashion,
proportion, art and aesthetics.

Fancy-shaped Diamond Sautoir

Arched Earrings
Which are your favourite gemstones and which is your
preferred metal?
Like people, each gem has a story and a character that is
uniquely theirs. I work with all kinds of gemstones. The most
important aspect of choosing a stone is the character, rather
than its kind.
How long does it take you to produce a collection? Tell
us something about your various collections and their
inspirations.
This is a profound question, as the way I see my work is more
through inspiration, rather than a timeline. I feel sad for the
way designers today have to abide by the fashion calendar
and create collections based on timeline rather than on their
inner voice and inspiration. This is the difference between

The 18-karat white gold sautoir earrings feature

a collection of 22 fancy-shaped diamonds
comprising brilliant, radiant, oval, marquise,
trillion-cut and baguettes complemented by
four yellow princess-cut diamonds. Each earring
is bezel-set and suspended by Alexandra Mor
signature details of knifeedged wire and floating
diamond melee arches. The
total diamond weight is
6.78 carats. (Limited edition
1/25, available in 18-karat
yellow gold, white gold and
platinum.)

art and mass production. I try as much as I can to stay true

to my creative journey and keep any distraction out of the
process.
What are your bestselling jewellery pieces?
Snowflake stud earrings and the wide diamond eternity band.
Tell us about your other hobbies.
I love reading and writing poetry, art, horseback riding,
film noir, spending time with my family, hiking, meditation,
cooking (but only when I have time) and swimming. All these
elements are an integral part of who I am as a woman. n

Black Diamond Studs with Diamond

Earring Jackets
A pair of round black diamond studs
accompanied by diamond earring jackets,
detailed with Alexandra Mors signature
1mm floating diamond melee and knifeedged wire. Earrings measure half an inch
in diameter and are set in platinum over
the 18-karat yellow gold Alexandra Mor
logo gallery. (Limited edition 3/50.)

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CREATIVE

CHARISMA

THREE-STONE PERIDOT & DIAMOND RING

The one-of-a-kind three-stone emeraldcut peridot ring totalling 21.04 carats, set
with intricate, intertwined bands adorned
with Alexandra Mors signature showcases
details of 262 floating diamond melee
and knife-edged double-split prongs.
Platinum set on a 1mm 18-karat yellow
gold band with the Alexandra Mor logo
gallery.

GREEN-BLUE TOURMALINE & DIAMOND

RING
The unique 14.82-carat cushion-cut
vivid green-blue tourmaline ring, set
with Alexandra Mors signature details of
floating diamond melee and knife-edged
wire, surrounded by 12 step-cut baguette
diamonds. Platinum set on a 1mm 18-karat
yellow gold band with the Alexandra Mor
logo gallery.

Susan B. Kaplan was one of Alexandra Mors

first collectors and her extensive knowledge
and passion for jewellery is evidenced in
the philanthropy of her family foundation
The Rita J. and Stanley H. Kaplan Family
Foundation.
Kaplans interest in jewellery flourished
when, as a young girl, she would go shopping
with her mother, Rita. She is now a trustee at
the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston, where she
made it her mission to elevate jewellery within
the museum setting.
Kaplan made jewellery history in 2006, when
her family foundation endowed a curator of
jewellery positionthe first of its kind in an

American museum.
Four years later, the Rita J. and Stanley
H. Kaplan Gallery for jewellery opened with
its inaugural exhibition, Gems, Jewels,
and Treasures: Ancient to Modern, which
highlighted 6,000 years of jewellery history,
and today visitors will find an exquisite
exhibition titled Gold and the Gods: Jewels of
Ancient Nubia.
Kaplan sought out Alexandra Mor when she
wanted to design a very special new jewel.
Susan Kaplan and Alexandra Mor met in the
winter of 2013, and decided to work together
to re-imagine two heirloom rings from Susans
collection. The results were stunning.

Platinum Diamond
Snowflake three-ring
set, with round centre
diamond
This three-ring set features
a 13mm Alexandra Mor
signature diamond snowflake
design set on a knife-edged
band complemented by
two adjacent bands set with
Alexandras signature 1mm
floating diamond melee. The
rings from the Signature/
Vows collection are set in
platinum and
18-karat yellow
gold, and the total
diamond weight
is 1.43 carats.
(Limited edition
of 50)

Medi Coral & Diamond

Chandelier Earrings
A pair of 18-karat white
gold chandelier earrings
features eight pearshaped corals and eight
fancy-shaped ideal-cut
diamonds. The corals
vary in colour from deep
red to pale pink, and are
surrounded by Alexandra
Mors signature 1 mm
knife-edged wire and 4.55
carats of floating diamond
melee.

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