Bruning Product Development

Tech Flat
Proto # 1
Style # 123
Season: Fall 2012
Name: Mens Suit Jacket
Fit Type: 3 pocket classic fit
Brand: JSB
Status: Proto 1

Size Range: Mens 42-46

Sample Size: 44
Designer: Jessica Bruning
Date First Sent: XX/XX/XXXX
Date Revised: XX/XX/XXXX
Fabrication: plain weave suiting

Front

Back

Bruning Product Development

POM Sheet
Proto # 1
Style # 123
Season: Fall 2012
Name: Mens Suit Jacket
Fit Type: 3 pocket classic fit
Brand: JSB
Status: Proto 1

Size Range: Mens 42-46

Sample Size: 44
Designer: Jessica Bruning
Date First Sent: XX/XX/XXXX
Date Revised: XX/XX/XXXX
Fabrication: plain weave suiting
HPS

A-A
A-E
A-L

A-X
A-F

A-P

A-R

A-M
A-D

A-T
A-Q
A-K

A-S

A-Y

A-N

A-H
A-W

HPS
A-V

A-O

A-U
A-G
A-J
A-D

A-C

A-B

A-I

Proto # 1
Style # 123
Season: Fall 2012
Name: Mens Suit Jacket
Fit Type: 3 pocket classic fit
Brand: JSB
Status: Proto 1

Bruning Product Development

POM Sheet

Size Range: Mens 42-46

Sample Size: 44
Designer: Jessica Bruning
Date First Sent: XX/XX/XXXX
Date Revised: XX/XX/XXXX
Fabrication: plain weave suiting

POM
Code
A-A
A-B
A-C
A-D
A-E
A-F
A-G
A-H
A-I
A-J
A-K
A-L
A-M
A-N
A-O
A-P
A-Q
A-R
A-S
A-T
A-U
a-V
A-W
A-X
A-Y
A-Z
A-AA
A-AB
A-AC
A-AD
A-AE
A-AF

Point of Measure
Front Length
Center back Length
Side length
Chest width circumference
Across shoulder
Across chest
Across back
Waist width circumference from HPS
Bottom opening circumference
Sleeve length top armhole
Sleeve length underarm
Curved armhole width circumference
Muscle width circumference
Elbow width circumference
Sleeve opening width circumference
Neck depth center front
Dart length bust dart
Dart Placement A. HPS to bust dart
B. CF to bust dart
C. Underarm to bust dart
D. HPS to princess dart
E. CF to princess dart
Distance between buttons
HPS to top breast pocket
HPS to top of flap pocket
CF to breast pocket
Slope of breast pocket
CF to flap pocket
Breast pocket width
Breast pocket height
Flap pocket width
Flap height

33
30
20
44
19
16
22
42
44
24
17
23
16
15
12
18
9
13
4
1
13
6
4
12
23
3
1
5
4
1
6
2

Proto # 1
Style # 123
Season: Fall 2012
Name: Mens Suit Jacket
Fit Type: 3 pocket classic fit
Brand: JSB
Status: Proto 1
Bill of Materials (BOM
Item/Description
Content
Suiting
100%
wool
Button, 4 hole
Button, 4 hole
Lining
Polyester
Felt
Haircloth
Interfacing
Interfacing
Cotton wadding
Fiberweb fabric
Burlap
Care tag
Woven hang loop
Main tag

Bruning Product Development

BOM Sheet

Placement
Body, collar, lapels,
sleeves
Sleeve cuff
Front placket
Body, sleeve
Shoulder pad,
shoulder head,
front chest
Front chest
Lapel, shoulder
seams, back side
seam
Front chest
Shoulder pad,
shoulder head
Shoulder pad
collar
Above front left
inner pocket
Back center at the
collar
Above front right
inner pocket

Size Range: Mens 42-46

Sample Size: 44
Designer: Jessica Bruning
Date First Sent: XX/XX/XXXX
Date Revised: XX/XX/XXXX
Fabrication: plain weave suiting

Supplier Width/Weight/Size
diameter
diameter

Finish

Qty
8
2

1
1
1

Bruning Product Development

Armscye call outs
Proto # 1
Style # 123
Season: Fall 2012
Name: Mens Suit Jacket
Fit Type: 3 pocket classic fit
Brand: JSB
Status: Proto 1

Size Range: Mens 42-46

Sample Size: 44
Designer: Jessica Bruning
Date First Sent: XX/XX/XXXX
Date Revised: XX/XX/XXXX
Fabrication: plain weave suiting

shoulder pad

Sleeve head

Fusible interlining

Twill tape

Felt

Jacket Back

interfacing on
inside

Jacket front chest

1. Fuse interlining along back armscye on jacket back and front armscye on sleeve front.
2. Sew twill tape to armscye using a 301 stitch
3. Sew felt on sleeve side of armscye using large 301 stitch
4. Attach two pieces of the sleeve head together using a 401 chain stitch as shown.
5. Sew sleeve heads to armscye on sleeve side using 301 stitch
6. Sew two pieces of felt on sleeve head to each other using large 301 stitch.
7. Sew felt sleeve head to shoulder side of armscye using 301 stitch.
8. Sew set in sleeve using 1/2 seam allowance and 301 stitch.

Bruning Product Development

Collar call outs
Proto # 1
Style # 123
Season: Fall 2012
Name: Mens Suit Jacket
Fit Type: 3 pocket classic fit
Brand: JSB
Status: Proto 1

upper collar

Size Range: Mens 42-46

Sample Size: 44
Designer: Jessica Bruning
Date First Sent: XX/XX/XXXX
Date Revised: XX/XX/XXXX
Fabrication: plain weave suiting

undercollar

woven fusible interfacing

shoulder seam

1. Iron woven fusible interfacing along back collar

2. Insert fashion fabric of upper collar between burlap support
fabric and felt undercollar then stitch.
3. Fold top of upper collar over 1/4 and press
4. Stitch felt undercollar to lapel and shoulder using hand
sewn whip stitch.
5. Fold upper collar over and sew along folded and pressed
edge using a 301 stitch

Bruning Product Development

Cuff call outs
Proto # 1
Style # 123
Season: Fall 2012
Name: Mens Suit Jacket
Fit Type: 3 pocket classic fit
Brand: JSB
Status: Proto 1

Size Range: Mens 42-46

Sample Size: 44
Designer: Jessica Bruning
Date First Sent: XX/XX/XXXX
Date Revised: XX/XX/XXXX
Fabrication: plain weave suiting

Sleeve Faux Button Placket

1/2
1/2

3/4

1 1/2

3/4
6
Attach buttons with 101 stitch
Figure C
Figure A

1. Attach 3 3/4 wide fusible interlining 1 from the edge of

sleeve.
2. Sew side seams together with 301 stitch, leaving 6 1/2
open on back side seam.
3. Finish edges with 503 stitch
4. Fold front hem as shown in figure B and stitch along
lines 1 and 2
5. Turn remaining side of cuff up 2 inches and stitch 1/4
hem
from side.
6. Overlap left over right and attach buttons as shown in
figure C
7. Attach lining to fashion fabric, right sides together, using
a 103 stitch at the cuff. Stitch at 2 on lining, 1 on fashion fabric.

(dashes = folds)
Figure B

vent

Bruning Product Development

Lining
Proto # 1
Style # 123
Season: Fall 2012
Name: Mens Suit Jacket
Fit Type: 3 pocket classic fit
Brand: JSB
Status: Proto 1

Size Range: Mens 42-46

Sample Size: 44
Designer: Jessica Bruning
Date First Sent: XX/XX/XXXX
Date Revised: XX/XX/XXXX
Fabrication: plain weave suiting

1 pleat

1. Sew lining pieces together, front, sides, and back using 301 stitch.
2. Sew lining to front placket facing using a 301 stitch. Sew facing to front jacket placket with a 301 stitch.
3. Press lining up 2 inches at the hem.
4. Turn right side out and stitch hem with a SSc and a blind catchstitch.
5. Set lining sleeve leaving cap unstitched to turn the sleeve right side out.
6. Overlap shoulder seams with the front 2 inches under the back ( folded over 1 and pressed) and stitch
using a whipstitch.
7. Close sleeve caps with whipstitch and 1/2 seam allowance.
8. The collar will be folded over to finish the lining at the neck using a 301 stitch as instructed in
the collar call outs.

Bruning Product Development

Cuff call outs
Proto # 1
Style # 123
Season: Fall 2012
Name: Mens Suit Jacket
Fit Type: 3 pocket classic fit
Brand: JSB
Status: Proto 1

Size Range: Mens 42-46

Sample Size: 44
Designer: Jessica Bruning
Date First Sent: XX/XX/XXXX
Date Revised: XX/XX/XXXX
Fabrication: plain weave suiting

Interfacing 2

Burlap

Interfacing 1

Felt

Haircloth

Fashion
Fabric

1. Fuse interfacing 2 to lapel and at side princess seam

2. Layer haircloth (see directions below for order) under
felt and attach using a large zig zag hand
stitch as shownto interfacing 1.
3. Layer shoulder pad between haircloth and felt.
4. Use a large basting 301 stitch along the armscye as shown
5. Attach twill tape using a 503 stitch
6. Edge finish canvas using ?
7. Attach canvas to collar with repeated 503 stitches as shown.
8. Fuse interfacing 1 with all components to body of jacket.

1. Sew pieces labled 2 to piece 1 using large, zig zag

hand stitches
2. Stitch piece 3 to piece 4 using large, zig zag hand
stitches

2
3

4
1

Bruning Product Development

Collar call outs
Proto # 1
Style # 123
Season: Fall 2012
Name: Mens Suit Jacket
Fit Type: 3 pocket classic fit
Brand: JSB
Status: Proto 1

Size Range: Mens 42-46

Sample Size: 44
Designer: Jessica Bruning
Date First Sent: XX/XX/XXXX
Date Revised: XX/XX/XXXX
Fabrication: plain weave suiting

B-B
B-D
B-E
B-C

B-F
B-G

B-A

POM
Code
B-A
B-B
B-C
B-D
B-E
B-F
B-G

Point of Measure
Front Length to break point
Collar Stand at CB
Lapel Point
Gorge Position
Collar Point
Lapel Point to Collar Point
Lapel Width

21 1/2
1
1 1/2
5 1/2
1 1/4
2
5

Bruning Product Development

Pocket call outs
Proto # 1
Style # 123
Season: Fall 2012
Name: Mens Suit Jacket
Fit Type: 3 pocket classic fit
Brand: JSB
Status: Proto 1

Size Range: Mens 42-46

Sample Size: 44
Designer: Jessica Bruning
Date First Sent: XX/XX/XXXX
Date Revised: XX/XX/XXXX
Fabrication: plain weave suiting
C-A
Breast Pocket POM
C-A
width
C-B
height
C-C
slope

C-B
C-C

4 1/2
1
1

Flap Pocket POM

D-A width 6 1/2
D-B height 2

D-B

D-A

Welt Pocket POM

E-A
Width
E-B
height

6 3/8
3/8

Bruning Product Development

Shoulder Pad
Proto # 1
Style # 123
Season: Fall 2012
Name: Mens Suit Jacket
Fit Type: 3 pocket classic fit
Brand: JSB
Status: Proto 1

Size Range: Mens 42-46

Sample Size: 44
Designer: Jessica Bruning
Date First Sent: XX/XX/XXXX
Date Revised: XX/XX/XXXX
Fabrication: plain weave suiting

felt

cotton wadding

FIberweb

1. Layer felt, cotton wadding, and fiberweb as shown.

2. Stitch layers together with large handstitch as shown.
3. Layer shoulder pad between felt and haircloth as directed in interlinings directions.
4. Sew to armscye at 1/4 with 301 stitch with basting SPI.

Proto # 1
Style # 123
Season: Fall 2012
Name: Mens Suit Jacket
Fit Type: 3 pocket classic fit
Brand: JSB
Status: Proto 1

Bruning Product Development

Grading Sheet

Size Range: Mens 42-46

Sample Size: 44
Designer: Jessica Bruning
Date First Sent: XX/XX/XXXX
Date Revised: XX/XX/XXXX
Fabrication: plain weave suiting

Grading Rules
Front Length
Center back Length
Side length
Chest width circumference
Across shoulder
Across chest
Across back
Waist width circumference from HPS
Bottom opening circumference
Sleeve length top armhole
Sleeve length underarm
Curved armhole width circumference
Muscle width circumference
Elbow width circumference
Sleeve opening width circumference
Neck depth center front
Dart length bust dart
Dart Placement A. HPS to bust dart
B. CF to bust dart
C. Underarm to bust dart
D. HPS to princess dart
E. CF to princess dart
Distance between buttons
HPS to top breast pocket
HPS to top of flap pocket
CF to breast pocket
Slope of breast pocket
CF to flap pocket
Breast pocket width
Breast pocket height
Flap pocket width
Flap height

Grade
down
-1/4
-1/4
-1/4
-1
-1/4
-1/4
-1/4
-1
-1
-1/8-1/4
-1/8-1/4
-1/2
-1/4-1/2
-1/4
-1/4-1/2
-0-1/4
-0
-0
-0
-0
-0
-0
-0
-0
-0
-0
-0
-0
-0
-0
-0
-0

Grade up
+1/4
+1/4
+1/4
+1
+ 3/8
+3/8
+3/8
+ 1
+1
+1/8-1/4
+1/8-1/4
+5/8
+1/4-1/2
+3/8
+1/4-1/2
+0-1/4
+0
+0
+0
+0
+0
+0
+0
+0
+0
+0
+0
+0
+0
+0
+0
+0

Tolera
nce

3/8
3/8
5/8

1/8
1/8
1/8
1/8
1/8
1/8
1/16
1/8
1/8
1/8
1/8
1/8
1/8
1/8
1/8
1/8

Sample
Size 44
33
30
20
44
19
16
22
42
44
24
17
23
16
15
12
18
9
13
4
1
13
6
4
12
23
3
1
5
4
1
6
2

Size
Down 42
32
30
19
43
19
15
21
41
43
24
16
23
16
14
11
18
9
13
4
1
13
6
4
12
23
3
1
5
4
1
6
2

Size Up
46
33
30
20
45
19 5/8
16 3/8
22 3/8
43
46
24
17
24 1/8
17
15 3/8
12
18
9
13
4
1
13
6
4
12
23
3
1
5
4
1
6
2

Proto # 1
Style # 123
Season: Fall 2012
Name: Mens Suit Jacket
Fit Type: 3 pocket classic fit
Brand: JSB

Bruning Product Development

Construction

Fabrication: plain weave suiting

Status: Proto 1
Cutting info: 2 way
Area

Description

Side seams

Join

Back seam

Join

Darts
Center front, lapel

Join

Welt Pocket

Join

Flap Pocket

Insert flap to welt pocket,

join layers of flap

Pocket bags
Bottom hem
fashion fabric
Bottom hem-lining

Close
Efa
Efa

Sleeve hem

SSd (edges turned in)

Shoulder seamfashio fabric

Shoulder seamlining

Join (set in sleeve)

Join as directed on call outs

Size Range: Mens 42-46

Sample Size: 44
Designer: Jessica Bruning
Date First Sent: XX/XX/XXXX
Date Revised: XX/XX/XXXX

Match horizontal: no
Match vertical: no
Match other: no
Join Stitch
Seam
Finish
301, 14 spi
Press
open on
fashion
fabric, not
on lining,
finish with
503
301, 14 spi
Press
open
301, 14 spi
Cut and
press
open
301, 14 spi
Trim and
press
301, 14 spi, LSd
with bottom
fabric folded over
to form the welt
Attach flap to SA Trim and
of welt pocket.
press
Join layers of flap
with 14 spi and
SSA then press
back over itself.
301, 7 spi
103
Press
Hand sewn catch
stitch
Hand sewn catch
stitch
301, 14 spi
301, hand stitch
to finish

Top
Stitch
None

Interlining
Fusible on
back side
seam

None
None

none

None

None

Press
Press

None

Trim and
press

None

As seen on
call outs

Proto # 1
Style # 123
Season: Fall 2012
Name: Mens Suit Jacket
Fit Type: 3 pocket classic fit
Brand: JSB

Bruning Product Development

Construction

Collar

Join with LSb

Top collar

LSb

Interlinings

Attach all interlinings and

support materials as
shown on call outs
Attach
Keyhole

Button
Buttonhole

Hand sewn whip

stitch on collar
back
Hand sewn catch
stitch top collar
down.

101 X formation
Hand sewn
buttonhole stitch

Size Range: Mens 42-46

Sample Size: 44
Designer: Jessica Bruning
Date First Sent: XX/XX/XXXX
Date Revised: XX/XX/XXXX
Press
Press

Open
buttonhol
e with
scissors