Beruflich Dokumente
Kultur Dokumente
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CatherineSalzman
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606
Journal of ContemporaryHistory
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607
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608
Journal of ContemporaryHistory
TABLE 1
Housewives Making Use of Recipes, in per cent
Never
Sometimes
several times a week
once a week
2-3 times a month
once a month
4-5 times in 6 months
2-3 times in 6 months
once in 6 months or less
cookbook
magazine or newspaper
38
62
2
6
10
12
7
12
12
56
44
1
6
3
8
6
10
10
cent v. 60 per cent) but less apt to use recipes from a magazine or
newspaper (35 per cent v. 44 per cent). Women from the top social
class are more apt to follow a recipe from a cookbook (70 per cent) or
magazine or newspaper (57 per cent) than women from the lowest
social class (43 per cent and 33 per cent).10
The frequency with which people cook from recipes is, however, of
secondary importance. It is the contention of this article that recipes
represent ideal meals and that changes in these ideals are part of a
society's cultural history. Via a study of a carefully chosen set of
recipes, it is possible to investigate these changes. By also examining
the type of ingredients used, it is possible to clarify the relationship
between the economics and the culture of food.
The first section of this article describes basic changes in diet in the
post-war period. The second section covers the culinary advice
offered in Margrietand TheHague Cookbookand how it has changed.
The third section deals with how the Dutch reacted to dishes from
abroad, in particular from the United States and Indonesia. The
concluding section analyses some of the factors that have resulted in
changes in eating habits and others which one might have expected to
result in changes but which, in fact, did not.
Dutch daily meals consist of one hot meal, with meat, vegetables and
almost always potatoes, two 'bread meals', made up of sandwiches,
and pauses for coffee or tea. This pattern has changed very little since
the war. 1 The most important change in the Dutch eating habit has
been in the time of day at which most people eat their hot meal.
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609
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610
Journal of ContemporaryHistory
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611
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612
Journal of ContemporaryHistory
1970s that the presence of an oven in the kitchen has been more or less
assumed. Even today, few Dutch kitchens have blenders, let alone
food processors.
Among the unchanged aspects of Margriet's culinary columns is
the assumption that in every family the woman is responsible for the
kitchen. The NIAM report, under the influence of the women's
movement, states that the person interviewed was 'either the
housewife or the person who served that function in the household'.
In all but a tiny number of cases this was a woman. Margriet is more
conservative in this respect, or perhaps simply more realistic. In
Margriet, more and more attention came to be paid to the admiration
and even love a woman could receive from family and friends as a
result of her achievements in the kitchen. Surely this must be seen as a
substitute for the admiration many women were seeking, and even
more were thinking about seeking, outside the home. At least up until
1975, the woman of the house, as portrayed in Margriet's culinary
columns, could only expect to get a little help from husband or
children, and that help was largely confined to Mother's Day.
Also unchanged in Margriet's culinary advice is the amount of
emphasis placed on the nutritional value of the food served, which
was mentioned in about twelve per cent of the columns. In addition, a
relatively constant proportion of recipes, some fifteen per cent, were
intended for national or religious holidays.
The most interesting aspects of Margriet'sculinary advice are those
that encompass elements of stability and change at the same time.
One of the consistent themes in Margriet'scolumns is the housewife's
responsibility to be economical with the family's household budget,
but there has been a major change in the concept of what constitutes
being economical. The increase in disposable income meant that
products which were once luxuries became staples. A good example
of such a product is cheese. In February 1951,Margrietrecommended
making cheese dishes for a 'festive lunch' even though that was 'not
inexpensive'. But in October 1971, dishes with cheese were recommended partly because they were inexpensive. The single most
important food which the Dutch are used to the idea of not wasting is,
of course, their daily bread. In March 1946, Margriet published an
article with recipes for stale bread, including French toast and bread
pudding. The introduction commented that even though there was
now enough to go around it was still wrong to throw any away. But in
1972, when Margriet again published recipes using old bread, the
motivation given for trying them was taste. No mention was made of
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613
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Journal of ContemporaryHistory
614
TABLE 2
Boiling Times for Vegetables (in minutes)
1936
Curly endive
Belgian endive
Cauliflower
Red cabbage
Sauerkraut
Brussels sprouts
Beets
Leeks
Winter carrots
Fresh peas
Young pea pods
1938
45
30-45
+/- 30
+/- 30
15
+/- 20
+/- 120 +/- 120
+/- 120 +/- 120
+/- 20
+/- 20
+/- 180 +/- 180
+/- 45
+/-45
+/- 60
+/- 45
45-60
45-60
15
45-60
1947
1957
1971
30
+/- 30
+/- 15
+/-30
+/-60
+/- 15
60
30
20-30
45-60
15
30
+/- 30
10-15
+/- 30
30-45
+/-10
60
20
20
10-45
6
20
20
10-20
30
30
10-12
60
20
20
10-30
6
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615
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616
Journal of ContemporaryHistory
Chinese-Indonesian
Other Foreign
Total
3 Largest Cities
and Their Suburbs
55
21
60
30
Rest of
West North
56
20
49
14
East
South
57
23
53
16
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617
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618
Journal of ContemporaryHistory
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619
fried the ground beef was to be mixed with tomato paste, chopped
onion, salt and pepper. 'You serve this meal - in the American way
- with everything on the plates.' On top of each hamburger were to
be pieces of leek, a handful of stuffed olives and some slices of
tomato. No mention was made of a bun.33
Anyone familiar with American food will agree that, while these
dishes could be served in America, there is not much about them that
is really American. In fact, in the article on the baking contest, what is
missing are such typically American foods as chocolate cake, or any
cake with a thick icing. Any type of biscuit would have been far more
characteristically American than yeast rolls. Although cobbler is an
American dish, when made with apples it tastes much the same as
Dutch apple pie. If the cobbler had been made with cherries, on the
other hand, it would not have had a Dutch counterpart.
These recipes were in fact, chosen and even re-written for the
Dutch housewife. In the introduction to the article on the baking
contest, Margriet's culinary writer stated that she had avoided those
winning recipes that did not 'really fit in with our Dutch taste'.34
There would have been no point in giving a recipe for brownies, for
example, because readers would never have tried it. It would have
been far too out of the ordinary. The recipe for hamburgers was
obviously re-written. Needless to say, Americans do not usually
garnish their hamburgers with olives nor do they mix ground beef
with tomato paste. This last was surely a substitute for catsup which a
typical Dutch family would not have in the refrigerator. Catsup was
not advertised in Margrietuntil 1972. Leeks are, of course, practically
unknown in America. Furthermore, a real American hamburger is
always served on a bun. To do this, however, would be to break one of
the key rules in Dutch cuisine, to keep the distinction between the hot
meal with potatoes and the cold meal with bread. In short, the strange
way American food was presented in Margriet was not accidental.
Margriet's aim in giving American recipes was not to tell readers
how to prepare their food as Americans did. What Margriet was
doing was to use the special allure associated with America and the
American way of life to push ideas it favoured in general, including,
above all, the idea of trying something new and different. The
'ground beef cookie', the hors d'oeuvre tray and the 'American
hamburger' were not really American but were something different
that the Dutch housewife could prepare for a festive occasion. Along
the same lines, in May 1955,Margrieturged readers'to learn from our
American sisters' and serve a variety of vegetables at every meal. In
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620
Journal of ContemporaryHistory
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Journal of ContemporaryHistory
622
If product is fresh:
pays close attention
pays no attention
If husband and children like it:
pays close attention
pays no attention
If it is easy to prepare:
pays close attention
pays no attention
Price:
pays close attention
pays no attention
GroupA
Group B
Group C
Total
91
0
94
2
85
2
91
1
53
14
53
10
66
6
53
13
13
44
20
41
16
45
14
44
45
15
46
21
30
26
44
16
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623
fits the English case as well, but it does not appear to apply in
France.41
There is a great difference between income and taste, but the
NIAM data indicates that tastes do differ from one social class to
another. The 1,600 housewives of the NIAM survey were asked
whether they agreed with the statement: 'The kind of food I like best
is just regular Dutch food' (Geef mij maar een doodgewonehollandse
pot). The most significant factor in their differing responses was
social class.42(See Table 5.)
TABLE 5
Answerto the Question: Do you Agree with the Statement 'The Kindof Food I Like the
Best is just Regular Dutch Food?', in per cent, by Social Class
Agree completely
Disagree completely
Highest 42%
Middle 45%
Lowest 13%
22
24
41
15
51
8
One can conclude from Table 5 that people who have the opportunity
to try new, non-traditional foods will tend to develop a taste for them.
One can probably say that as income goes up, people become more
cosmopolitan, more eclectic in their tastes.
But it would be wrong to exaggerate the impact of income on eating
habits. In fact, one of the characteristic features of eating habits in
industrialized countries is the limited difference between what is
eaten by high-income and low-income groups. The basic Dutch
pattern of one hot meal and two bread meals a day is the same in all
economic groups. The higher-income groups can afford better cuts of
meat. They have developed a taste for more fresh fruit and vegetables.
They tend to prefer a slice of meat or cheese on their bread ratherthan
jam or some other sweet spread. They make more use of macrobiotic
and health foods. But all of these are marginal differences. In a
society in which there is no real poverty, there is no basic difference
between classes regarding eating habits.
Increasing urbanization has been the most important factor
influencing the change in the time of day at which the hot meal is
consumed. Longer distances between home and work and between
home and school are also significant. This point is illustrated in the
NIAM study. At the beginning of this article, we noted that in 1980,
an average of 71 per cent of all Dutch households always took their
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624
Journal of ContemporaryHistory
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625
Notes
1. An excellent example of the use of statistical material for the second half of the
eighteenth century is C. Vanderbroeke, Agricultureet Alimentation (Gent 1975). An
important work making use of budgetary data is H.J. Teutenberg and Gunter
Wiegelmann, Der WandelderNahrungsgewohnheitenunterdemEinflussder Industrialisierung (Gottingen 1972).
2. In Robert Forster and Orest Ranum (eds.), trans. Elborg Forster and Patricia
M. Ranum, Food and Drink in History (Baltimore 1979), consisting of articles that
originally appeared in the journal Annales, Economies, Societes, Civilisation, several
authors make inspiring use of literarysources. See, for example, Jean Laclant on coffee
in seventeenth-century Paris and Guy Thuillier on water supply in Nievre in the
nineteenth and the beginning of the twentieth century. A fine example of the use of
artistic material is the catalogue Brood (Rotterdam 1983), an account of the history of
the production and consumption of bread in the Netherlands from the sixteenth to the
twentieth century.
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626
Journal of ContemporaryHistory
3. Much of this research has been inspired by Gunter Wiegelmann's Alltags- und
Festspeisen. Wandel und Gegenwartige Stellung (Marburg 1967), based on material
collected between 1910 and 1939. Reasoning by analogy, Wiegelmann attempts to
extrapolate back to the eighteenth and nineteenth century.
4. Mary Douglas 'Food as a System of Communication' in The Active Voice
(London 1982), 83.
5. I would like to take this opportunity to thank the Nutrition Information Office
(Voorlichtingsbureauvoor de Voeding) for allowing me to quote from this study.
6. Christien Brinkgreve and Michel Korzec, 'Margriet WeetRaad'. Gevoel,gedrag
en moraal in Nederland, 1938-1978 (Utrecht 1978), 19.
7. Wina Born, Margriet's best-known culinary editor, is an important writer of
cookery books in her own right. But the central editorial staff does not give her a free
hand in determining the content of her columns. Ms. Born told me in a telephone
conversation in November 1982that she used not to be allowed to put recipes with wine
in her columns, but that she could put in as many with whipping cream as she wanted.
Nowadays, she said, it is the other way around.
8. I would like to thank Margriet's publishers, De Geillustreerde Pers BV, for
allowing me to consult back issues in their archives. In researchingthis article, I read all
the culinary articles published in Margriet in 1951, 1955, 1959, 1963, 1967, 1971 and
1975 as well as those in March and September of every other year. I also noted all the
advertisements relating to food products in March and September of every year.
9. In this article I have made use of F.M. Stoll and W.H. de Groot, Het haagse
kookboek (The Hague 1936, 1938, 1942, 1947, 1952, 1957, 1961, 1966, and 1971) and
F.M. Stoll, W.H. de Groot and J.C. Heidenreich, Het nieuwe haagse kookboek (The
Hague 1982). All the authors are former teachers at the domestic science school. Ms.
Heidenreich emphasized to me that she had been opposed to the change in name. I
would like to take this opportunity to thank Ms. Heidenreich, other (former) teachers
and the domestic science school's librarian for helping me to consult old editions.
10. NIAM tables A.20.H, B.20.H and C.20.H. Social class was determined by a
range of factors including income, education and age. Some 42 per cent of the
households surveyed fell into the highest class. Some 13 per cent were included in the
lowest.
11. There is one significant exception to this pattern: farmers, market-gardeners
and their employees, because of the heavy labour they do, often have an additional
meal each day. This can be a hot meal or a bread meal. See B. Woonink, J.P. Burema
and Th.F.S.M. van Schaik, 'Een enquete naar de avondmaaltijd ten plattelande',
Voeding, 12 (1951), 367-79.
12. NIAM tables A.12 and B.12.
13. A.P. den Hartog, Voedingals maatschappelijkverschijnsel(Utrecht 1982), 121.
14. Renee Kistemaker and Carry van Lakerveld (eds.), Brood, aardappelsenpatat.
Eeuwen eten in Amsterdam(Amsterdam 1983), 53-54.
15. This is certainly a cause for concern, even though it would be unwise to
underestimate the extent of adulteration of food in the nineteenth century. On this see
John Burnett, Plenty and Want. A social history of diet in Englandfrom 1815 to the
present day (London rev. ed. 1979).
16. Anneke van Otterloo, 'De herleving van de beweging voor natuurlijken gezond
voedsel', Sociologisch Tijdschrift(December 1983), 516. This article does not neglect to
point out that the natural foods movement started around the turn of the century.
17. G.J.P.M. de Bekker, De betekenis van brood in de voeding en defactoren die op
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Journal of ContemporaryHistory
41. den Hartog, op.cit., 61; Driver, op.cit., 66; Theodore Zeldin, France, 1848-1945
(London 1977), vol. I, 753.
42. NIAM table A.25.C. See also note 10.
43. NIAM tables A.12 and B.12.
44. NIAM table A. 17.
45. This is surely due to the fact that the fiction has been maintained that these
'guest workers' are staying only temporarily.
46. See Jobse-van Putten, op. cit. Important determinants of regional differences in
the Netherlands included whether the cooking in a given region was done on an open
range or on a stove and the form of the chimney. This implies that many regional
differences were very short-lived.
47. Mary Douglas, 'Deciphering a Meal' in Implicit Meanings (London 1975),
249-75.
48. The Foundation for Scientific Research of Consumer Issues (Stichting
WetenschappelijkOnderzoekKonsumentenAangelegenhedenor SWOKA) is carrying
out research on this subject.
49. See Driver, op. cit., x: 'The food history of our own time presents the middle
class rediscovering, and the working class escaping the mingled pleasure and
enslavement of the physical world'.
Catherine Salzman
is an MBA student at the
Rotterdam School of Management
and is the author of several articles.
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