AROUND

AFGHANISTAN
BY

WITH

M.

GEORGES

No.

AMEN

SIR

G.

ISAAC

CORNER,

LACOSTE

BY

LEYGUES

THE

FROM

J.

PREFACE

TRANSLATED

LONDON

DE

BOUILLANE

DE

MAJOR

FRENCH

BY

ANDERSON

PITMAN
E.C.

SONS,

"
9

"

LTD.
1909

3^

Printed
"

AND

Sir

by

Sons,
New

Ltd.,

Isaac
London,

Pitman
Bath
1909

York
-

PREFACE

PROBLEM

ASIATIC

THE

I
There

is

nobler

no

mean

by

man

away

causing

him

forces

peril,not

every

that

may

he

changing world,

and

of

only

from

endure

to

distant

shores,

civilisations,and

great politicaland

the

world.

An

Arab,

to

order

the

Mecca

compel

to

time

at

the

in

their

are

we.

You

know

"

same

town

the
of

caravansary

and

Travel

the

is wisdom's

Major

last

de

understand

to

take

to

their

world

to

which

over,

and

solve

perplex
med
Moham"In

at

least

once

Wanderers

birth-place.
prison-house.

the

he

holy places, but

them,

of

front

the

inscription on

are

the

races,

and

problems

visit the

to

us

long

that

skies, but

new

Abb"s-le-Grand
we

of

pilgrimage, replied :

in order

is to

intoxication

put the question why

sons

lives, far from

caravansary

"

his

life in the sunshine

delight of remoteness,

social

every

manifold

the

strange countries,

whom

ordained

brave

to

know

new

the

under

try

may

the

taste

pleasure of lonely hours

study and describe
may

to

come

overwhelming

the

voyages,

fatigue and

Uve

may

may

for travelling.

passion

strong, healthy passionwhich

of the fireside,
the comforts

this the

the

than

passion

The

world

the
is

caravan.'
listen

and

This

observe.

word."

Lacoste,

in

virtue

(V)

253013

of

the

extent

and

the

PREFACE

moral

and

to the

Tavernier,

of

de

of

Asia

Manchuria

its

on

His

that

approach

had

he

and

Indo

and

mysterious

tured
adven-

ence
experi-

some

-China, China,
its central

attempting

himself

Henri

not

had

already
in

Bernier,
Grilli"res.

territorywas

boundaries,

object, as

beside

Bonvalot,

Bonin

Rhins,

Siberia, before

and

mass.

He

place is

Gabet,

forbidden

journey to the
haphazard.

his

physical
inquisitiveness,
belongs

His

Hue,

Dutreuil

traversed,

fearless

explorers.

Chardin,

d'Orl"ans,
His

his

energy,

family

he

countries

of the

strangeness

informs

to

was

us,

alluring country

called

Afghanistan, to keep as close as he could to its impassable

frontier,and, while travellingalong it, to look
wall.

the

over

de

Major
from

Lacoste

April 27, 1906, he reached

the
capital of Persia, beyond

Korassan.

and,

the

joined

Russian

oasis

of

Turkestan,

Transcaspian

great commercial, politicaland

the

railroad.

rehgious

"

in

shut

witnessing

to

with

the

shadow

in

four
its

largest in

the

its

the

of

Mussulman
and

gardens,

world

its

and

burial

is blue

domes,
veils

its

mosques,

faculty

capital
everything

walls,

ruins

hundred

the

city,where
the
springs, the
of

vast

among

of

midst

the

flourishingcity, which

baths,

Tamerlane's

Samarkand,
water

its

thermal

caravansaries, the

the

and

populous
to

and

greatness

fifty schools,

its

marvellous

orchards,

vanished

pride

and

theology,

its

that

Bokhara,
hundred

and

in

high walls,

its

by

lands

cultivated

into

Meshed,

Merv,

points

his way

Askhabad,

at

centres

made

He

visited

He

ing
Start-

purpose.

Teheran,

sacred

the

his

accomplished

the

with

place,
the

sky,

minarets,
which

the

PREFACE

women

birds

the

Kokand,
On

of

20th

silk,

ganah,

Daria,

and

for

first time

the

on

he

of the

Roof

he

he

high valley

arrived

summits

Osh,

at

the

of

Syr-

whence

heights of
supported

snowy
is

which

on

Fer-

through

post

the

above

saw,

World."
fain

was

of

21st

LAla", the inaccessible

There,

travelled

railway

the

Major reached

the

June,

Andijan. He
delightfulcorner

terminus,

"

of

sheen

the

copper.

the

the

flashing with

town

and

gold,

the

gardens, and

in the

flowers

attired, the

are

bid

to

adieu

great roads,

to

to

to requisition
get together camp
equipment and arms,
ponies and
camels, to lay in provisions, to charter

guides,

and

Reckoning
itinerary into
The

valley

tracks

and

of

The

chains
a

The

Indus,

"

of

the

the

of

at

the

of passes,

rich

of

than

more

Yarkand

of

to

Tibet, crossing the

Kachgarie
the

lowest

and

the

of

from

mere,
Cash-

is

of which

and

with

to

Quetta

High Valleys,

singular town
floating gardens

India,"

lowlands, by

Rawal-Pindi

by

Yarkand,

of

town

from

feet ;

Himalayas
Venice

meet

height

Little

separate

16,000

the

from

Indo-China,

of

town

(15,000 feet),

Pass

China

Russian

keep

flower-beds

region
from

to

Be"k

frontiers

capital of

of the

region
roofs

and

that

of

the

"

altitudes

great

three

which

succession

by Srinagar,
with

the

altitude

an

and

snows

Major's

the

divide

can

principal stages

lastly,from

Leh,

by

point, we

Sarikol

paths

mountain

at

of

first caravait.

the

(1 1 ,500 feet)to

feet ;

13,000

this

point the
Afghanistan,

Russian

that

six

Pass

which

the

from

regions of

Taldick
at

organise

to

the
;

valley

of

the

PREFACE

Baluchistan
region of the
country,
from
its endless
with
plains of lava and flint-stone,
Nushki
to the
guard-house of
Kelat, Mastung, and
The

desert

Koh-i-Malek-Siah

of Se"stan, by the
region of the fluvial oases
shut-in
Hindustan,
depressions separating Iran from
by the risingof the
which, every year, are inundated
large rivers ;
The
region of the Persian steppes with their long

The

waving lines of grey and yellow,a region plagued with

at
an
apart
unceasing wind, where
great distances
rocky islets,a fortified village,a crumbling
appear
fortress,a

oasis.

barren

diary,in which
his impressions in a
written
down
has
the traveller
swift and
animated
graphy,
narrative, describing the topoLacoste'

Major

the

book

appearance,

is

continuous

fauna,

the

the

of

flora

the

of the

regions he traversed,the ethnology and customs

in his travels.
peoples he met
Landscapes

blazing

with

silence,

heat

or

Mongolian

frozen, the

effects

of solitude

Tibetan

encampments,

the

and

series,
interiors, lama-

monks

unceasingly turn
their prayer-mills,enchanted
palaces where legendary
lived, dead
towns, so proud in their sad
kings once
monasteries

state, which

were

flourishing cities
buried

tombs,

in

green

monuments

inviolable

where

founded

nestling

by
on

fabled

conquerors,

river-banks, villages

mountain-recesses, temples, altars,

of every
kind, the keepers of

secrets; pilgrim rocks

which,

fallen

from

mountain-tops, and pushed by generationsof believers

for centuries, accomplish, a thing past all imagining,
the
their journey towards
holy places; battlemented
recall feudal
castles which
days, fortresses ambushed
(viii )

PREFACE

cut-throats

like

at

of

shoulder

the

forbidding rocks,

the
giddy heights,as though to command
and
exact
an
gives us
airy plains Major Lacoste
at
coloured
picture of everything he sees, and is never
he feels,
and
the emotions
to convey
loss for words
a

or

reared

to

"

help
things.
to

to

us

inner

the

into

penetrate

meaning

of

11

than a daring and

something more
is a penetrating observer, well
; he
wide
science
and
general knowledge.
satisfied
with
Not
bearing
observing the natural
and race
of peoples,
and aspect of places,the character
the position,the influence, the respective
he studied
of the European nations
round
the
that move
powers
is

Major Lacoste
cheery traveller
equipped with

central

of

mass

Asia,

nations
"

the

employ in
There
is only
Tsar,

world

Peter

I,

will be able to

well

as

order
one

in

to

prevent

Central

to

will,
him

means

their

ensure

heir
his

the

as

"

and
from

no

these

that

ascendancy.
Asia,"
Power

wrote

in

the

taking possession

of his inheritance."
From

the

seventeenth

century

onwards

Russia

has

castingglances at India ; the Conquest of India

is the prime article of all her Eastern
poHtics. Trade
roads, scientific missions, religiousactivity,financial
operations, policing the roads, organising customsbeen

systems,

delimitation

of

boundaries,

(ix)

annexations,

PREFACE

treaties,blows
shrunk
her

from

with
means

any

of

and

dream,

the

armed

hand

she

"

has

not

of

of
advancing the reahsation
making for herself friends,allies,

vassals.

or

She

has

force

of

units of the
and

in Turkestan

massed
about

Russian
native

some

80,000

the

Pamirs, notably

the

on

frontier
at

Bokhara

of

an

ing
impos-

organised with some

regiments of Cossacks,

recruited

troops

set up

men,
some

army,

has

and

the

on

spot.

She

Persia, Afghanistan, and

Seraks, Kushk,

Kerki,

and

Term"z, a powerful ring of advanced

posts, fortresses,
central
storehouses
strongholds, and
abundantly
and
victuals.
supplied with ammunition
Between
Gultcha, Osh and Horok, that is to say, in
the region nearest
and
to China
lished
India, she has estabdouble

a
so

each

near

line of

other

that

outposts
no

and

stations

look-out

contrabandist

could

possibly

it.

pass

This

great

net -work

There

fortification

of

system
are, in

completed with a
of roads
and
strategicrailways.
the first place,the two great lines which
the invading routes
^the Central
Asia
is

might be called
the whole
front
of the northern
railway which crosses
of Afghanistan, and
from
extends
the
Caspian Sea
to Ferganah, passingby Askhabad, Merv, Bokhara, and
and
the
Samarkand,
railway from
Orenbourg to
"

Tashkend.
From

which
from
within

these

"

lines branch

two

far-enteringroads

descend

perpendicularly to the south, the one

Merv
soldiers to
to Kusht, carrying the Tsar's
arkand
twenty leagues of Herat, the other from Samto

this

two

Term"z

its construction

and

the

having
(X)

passage
been

of

broken

Banian
off

"

but

is still

PREFACE

far from

reaching the Afghan

of

railroads,Russia

these

the

waterway,
of Aral
the

with

one

the

to

passages

which, running

from

military station
of
Baroghil

of

important

more

Meshed,

crosses

and

Pamir

and

keeps

river

joins up the lake

chief strategicroutes,
two
Andijan to Osh, extends

course

to

from

the
and

other

the

starts

its

leads

and

Yonov

which

one,

of

which

of

and

herself

avail

can

Amu-Darya,

Term"z,

Independently

frontier.

Askhabad,

onwards

to Se"stan

Baluchistan.

and

England has not remained

the
After
inactive.
position on
maintaining her
plateau of the Deccan, in the valley of the Ganges and
the
on
point
Indus, she has spread out from every
face of Slavish

In

where

did

she

not

menace

touch

the

sea.

the north
ceaselesslytowards
to get possession of territories
formed
her

from

violent

shifted

her

money,

and,

boundary,
when

that

has

the

west

in

order

figuration,
which, by their conbarrier,and could shelter

natural
A

blow.

and

advanced

She

hundred

times

using diplomacy
did

not

she

has

well

as

as

suffice,using force

ing
violatdisquietedneither by the rightswhich she was
she was
nor
giving rise,
by the protests to which
interest and the Empire's
heeding nothing but her own
security. She has put the finishingtouch to her work
by creating on the forefront of her line of defences a
of provinces and
succession
buffer-states,designed in
of a struggle to serve
the event
shield, and to
as
a
deaden
India
and

the

the
is

initial blow.

protected

snowy

on

ramparts

the

north

by

of Hindu-Kush

and
the north-west
on
ill-protected
Cashmere, and Baluchistan

(xi)

the
have

Himalayas

the
;
west.
never

but

she

is

Afghanistan,
stopped

PREFACE

the

of

way

Alexander,
there

the

Russia

also

herself

by

of

entrenched

from

road

that

of her

from

taking
This

she

the

idea

confines

now

immediate

military works

Gilgit,situated

descends

of

frontier

posts, batteries,forts, and

These

camps.

"chelon

and

abandoned,

series of

passed,

Hindu-Kush.

strong defence

the

to

means

in

have

to

have

visions

had

offensive,and

Tiglath-Pileser,

pass.

long time
advancing on

for

seems

can

Where

Nadir-Shah

Tamerlane,

England
she

invader.

the

an

outlook

plateaux

of Pamir

as

planted

are

on

the

by

the

Baroghil as far as Killa-Robat

bars
overlooking Se"stan, passing by Chitral, which
which
the approaches from
Afghanistan, and Peshawar
holds
the Kyber Pass, the route
for nearly every
one
passes

of

of

emperors

the

Yonov

All these

and

of

the

Indian

Indus.
reach

from

runs

the

these

foot

of

left bank

centres

provisions and

to

lines

secondary
which

material

they

great metalled
the Himalayas

Ocean, following the

Where
the

with

joined up

points are

net-work, which
to

India.

do

support, they

are

the

directly

not

designed

are

of

to

carry

extended

by

and
for convoji^s
military roads suitable
mountain
Lastly, two carriage-roads,the one
guns.
Rawal-Pindi
from
to Srinagar, the
going northward
Dera-Isma"l-Khan
other
from
to
leading westward
the
the
river Luni
flows, make
through which
pass
with
the strategic
the Empire's communications
sure
of

means

zone

of

the

positionis
of
Situated

frontier.

north-west

the
the

between

bristlingwith

country which
Iran

forms

the

But
the

eastern

plateau, namely,

Russian

formidable

Turkestan

and

mountains,
(xii)

key

to

the

ment
escarp-

Afghanistan.
British

rent

with

India,

deep

PREFACE

gorges,

Afghanistan

and

every

of

At

the

and

more

her

like

more

every

line her

camps,

shuts
is

door.

attack,

to

open

routes,

once.

work
net-

enteringrailways,
of which

net, the

meshes

day.

Fortified

contract

posts, entrenched

surround

and

all

every

at

encirclingand

frontier

of

all sides

on

of

routes, and

envelops

and

opens

blockaded

in,
of

command

time, Afghanistan

same

hemmed

and

pass,

the

holds

her

with

iron

an

girdle.
About

wild

this

the
rugged mass
politics cross

and

threads

and
are
Anglo-Russian Asiatic
entangled.
of the most
Here
is being worked
out
one
exciting
of those
the situation
problems in all politics,one
created
by which
might upset the world's equilibrium.
in
Russia
is only in a moderate
degree concerned
the high
and
occupying the desert regions,the oases
steppes of Asia, if she is not one day to reach the open
and
the whole
or
a part of the
sea
peninsula of
occupy
Hindustan
without
ceasing to
England cannot
; and
the splendid prey
be England, abandon
to her rival.
of

Who

only

will

that, in

see

difficult
An

of

day

had

of

We

can

conflict,the problem

most

of

its convoys
had

Amir

chance

the

will
seems

Amir
hold

to

of
the

incline

Amir, Habibullah,

sent

say.

supplying provisions.
stopped or plundered

its communications

operations cut, would

is possibleto conjecture in
the strugglewould
depend,
of

can

one

that

will be

defiles,which

attitude
the

the

No

of

base
It

solve

which

army

in the

to

it off ?

carry

the

run

that

in

Kabul.

his

the
son

{ xiii )

the

one

For

who
the

its

risks.
issue
the

great degree,on
The

holds

moment

England. The
salute
the Viceroy

side of
to

greatest

case, that

trump-card.
to

with

PREFACE

of India
what

the

on

is

the

of the

morrow

battle of Mukden.

significanceand

true

import

proceeding ?
Between
Afghanistan and England there
The
innumerable
grounds for ill-feeling.
Kabul, Kohistan, Gil-Sai, the

with

But
of

that

exist many

little

Afridis,and

wars

other

to
Afghan tribes, says
MacGregor, tend
join all
the
peoples into one, into an united Afghanistan,
but
in the sentiment
united
of an
implacable hatred

for

us.

have

MacGregor might
campaigns to which
of

extermination,

neither

like these

vengeance

of

refers

of which

human

"

; and

God

there

is

remained
Acts
Indian

an

from

you

and

the

campaigns

there

preserve

elephant, a cobra,

an

of

being anywhere.

memories

says

several

in truth

were

end

the

at

villagenor
have
long
which

proverb

he

that

added

the

Afghan."

an

Ill
M.

Lebedev,

the

first

principlethat

and

sea

the

the efforts

Great, and
influence
the

by

herself

establish

recalls

He

of

MacGregor.

Lebedev.

The
Vers

on

lays it

of Alexis

Asia.

He

Defence of

India.

(xiv)

as

open

Michalovich,of

Peter

to

Indus.

the

recalls the

Paul, by Napoleon
l'Inde.

down
the

advance

the

up

Lebedev
must

Guards,

exactly sums

Catherine, to strengthen

in Central

Emperor

Russia

most

East.

the

first page

very

Grenadier

the

which

published in 1898 a book

Russia's
aspirations in
From

of

officer

an

I and

vite
Musco-

plans laid
Alexander

PREFACE

that

last-named

the

had

realised,if England
and

induced

He

calculates
their

In

with

could
"

the

To

with

without

natural

frontier

country

enclosed

Afghan

Gilzai and

"A

for

Turks

and

cludes
con-

be

to

seem

"

Afghanistan,

over

country, while

Turkestan,

which

will

the

and

the

the

would

thus

of that

south,

within

on

advantages

victory, and

us

north, the

on

us

all the

annexing

the

on

of

Hezareh,

line between

Kelati-

mountains

conventional

give

following limits

the

Dera-Isma"l-Khan

south,

war

occupation

on

boundary,

true

the

this

protectorate

our

the

all

west, Persia

the

following solution

holding

our

he

from

draw

establish

or

examines

been

topography,
respectiveparties,weighs
that victory ought
shows

the

advantageous

most

of the

and

chapter

The

study

tains
main-

Russians.

the

final

Russia

"

of success,

chances

rest

to

strength of

the

and,

of

flame

Russians

between

makes

the

kindled

not

quarrel

in the Balkans.

on

for

1876, by Skobelev,

in

by Kroulev,
He
invading India.
have
project would

Tchikhatchev,

Tilsit, by

after

the

east, the Indus

sea.

territoryfrom the Caspian

Sea to Herat, Kandahar, Djakobabad,Rori and Kurachi
mention
of the commercial
has already been
made
the
occupation of this
advantages resulting from
region. By the acquisitionof the territoryalong the
railway will

this

cross

"

Indus,

we

base

from

hold

in

give
in

be

which

to

our

the

us

hands
means

able

to

invade
the

establish
India

sword

of

of

the

on

and

thus

Damocles,

paralysing

every

Indus
we

which

shall
will

dangerous

England will be able to direct against

position on the Indus
Europe. Further, our

attempt
us

shall

that

(XV)

PREFACE

will

force

in

reduce
in

between

to

have

they

Russia, the

alliance

will be

of

their

bring
close

of the

fear of

country

will be
be

will

of

no

losing
pelled
com-

longer

when

their deliverers

allies

the

for

of

fate,since they will

become

will

It will be favourable

of which

as

and

Britain, that

it will rid her

the Russians

count

Great

military

will

conclusion

Powers.

to their

alarm

likelihood,this

and

both

expenses,

perpetual

desire, the

Russia

to submit

able

all

inhabitants

the

India,

In
we

advantageous to
England, because

to

of

their

augment
their

state

Hindustan.

alliance
be

issue

to

increase

to

to

the

to

English

India,

them

rule
us

the

compel

once

the

English. For
advantage, because, with

the
England, the strongest of sea-powers,
former's
position in Europe will be strengthened and
the Eastern
question will be able to solve itself to her
India
will
allies in
no
advantage. Moreover, our
low-caste
nor
Indians,
longer be fanatical Musulmans
world.
nation
in the
but
Englishmen, the foremost
Most
to the point of
probably things will not advance
a
England
campaign in the heart of India, because
the

help

wiU

decide

of

not

single throw

conditions
of

the

down
"

the

by
The

that

the
shall

we

hold

cards,

Lebedev

end

Skobelev

stronger

that

upon

will

but

impose

upon

country

accept

her

is

brought

to

the

on

the

belief

Russia

all the
banks

axiom

Russia

becomes

in

Central

in India
England become
accommodating in Europe."
1902 pessimism prevailed in London
;

In

on

that

could

not

this
be

laid

"

will

weaker

more

the

of

her

Indus."

the
In

risk

to

irresistible

checked,
(xvi)

forward

and

and

there

movement

Asia,
the

was

of

Englishmen already

PREFACE
the

saw

Cossacks

Persian
An

the

on

shores

the

of

Gulf.

inevitable.

But

Russian

the

rival nations

the two

between

encounter

the

encamped

Russo-Japanese

Far-Eastern

fleet

appeared

broke

war

out,

destroyed,

was

the

victorious,
campaign opened, Japan was
reversed.
of the problem were
the conditions
which
the point of coming to
nations
were
on

Manchurian
and

all

The

two

blows, threw

signed an
in

action
contact

The

their arms,

for

reasons

After

peoples

this

Mukden
were

and

conscious

dangerous.
sudden
change

stirred the

Tsushima

treaty, and

of the

inward

are

Asiatic

all

sentiment

the

obvious.

peoples to
Far-Eastern

awakening

of

^the sentiment
to them
previouslyunknown
interest
racial soUdarity and
common
as
against
Western
Japan appeared to them to
conquerors.

of
the
be

vital and

most

Japanese victories
lowest
depths.

the

concluded

agreement (Sept.27, 1907) regulatingtheir

their
Persia, the particular point where

was

The

down

it

as

When

"

were

the

deliverer of Asia.

this movement,
find
we
closelyexamine
in the Iranian
region,Persia,Afghanistan,Kachgarie,
after independence still
a general ferment, aspirations
but
formless
decline
of
quite perceptible,a marked
Russian
influence,a spiritof defiance and hostility
towards
foreigners.
As regards India, a wide national
tendency which
is upsettingold separatist
prejudice,is breaking down
the hierarchy of the caste
system and consohdating
races, sects, villages,and
provinces in a common
^
activity."
and
from
to China
the
Lastly, from the Caucasus
we

"

"

E.

Piriou.

L'Inde

contemporaine.

( xvii)
B"

(2134)

PREFACE

Transcaspian provinces
that

movement

of its
In

reaches,

in

Pacific,a pan-Islamist

India, the highest point

curve.

the

countries

subject to Russian
ascendency
advance
as
slowly,inasmuch
they are presented
about
in desert
tricts,
dispopulations scattered

ideas

new

the

to

to

and

steppes, oases,

mountain

In

ranges.

India

they are
propagated more
quickly, for there the
population is of extreme
density,and there they are
gathered up by an intellectual "lite of the natives,
restless

and

in

many

number,

who

scatter

them

abroad

in handfuls.
What
which
dash

is the

ideas,
againstwhich those new
swollen
at present merely form
a
torrent, will
themselves
?
England ? And what is England's

position
"

barrier

the

at

present

moment

The

Enghsh in India
belligerentcivilisation."

wilful, and

masterful,

taste, and

it

as

imposed

prosperity.
exist

It

were

upon

with

the

are

race

whom

natural

their

law

is

an

desire,they

subjects order,

is inconceivable
of

representativesof
daring, vigorous,

to

them

inborn

have

peace,
that

force
perand

there

superior to that of
India, and they are quite sincere.
They see in that
system only its majesticfa"ade,its imposing magnitude,
the profitsit yields to the
its long continuance
and
can

system

government

mother-state.
nica
unspeakable blessingof the Pax BritanLieut. -Governor.
be
forgotten," said a former
There are not many
tion
European countries where protecto life and
property is so complete. Excepting
States of
England and her colonies,and the United
America, there is hardly a country in the world where
"

Let

not

this

"

Fitzjames Stephen.

( xviii )

PREFACE

cry
In

goes
this

from

up

end

one

profound

peace,

of the

under

Empire

the

to

the

protection

other.

of those

perfectlaws, India declares that she is a slave, and is

that the motherShe asserts
dying of wretchedness.
has
of Bentinck
state
forgotten the noble traditions
and
Macaulay, as well as the solemn promises she gave
in

1830

system
substance

and
of

1858

she

government
of India

demands

which,

for the

the

by
profitof

reform

of

draining all the

the English State,

and
speculators,
English traders, merchants
enriches
the
foreigner and ruins the native.
Long
thinking all this,but did not dare to
ago the natives were
of the National
Since the institution
Congresses
say it.
bolder, and no longer are afraid to
they have grown
heard.
These
make
their plaintsand wishes
Congresses
first instituted in 1885.
were
They are chieflydue to
of the
choicest
Sir Wilham
Hunter, one
spiritsin
who
the
best understand
of those men
England, one
Indian
question. Their object is to bring together
the most
once
a
enlightened representativesof
year
and
to
India, in order
study the economic, moral

and

of

of the

social conditions

to

country,

find out

of

methods

improving
approximate to a more

constitutional

the

lawful
lot

and

of

the

exalted
civic
people, and to
and
politicalideal.
As long as it was
able, the English administrative
words
ignored these Congresses. The
government
control," political
equality," liberty,"pronounced
by native reformers,had an unpleasant sound in its ears.
"

"

"

No

reasonable

seriouslythe
Lord

person,

wild

Dufferin, in

Hall, in December,

and
the

it used

Utopian
speech he

1888, on

the

(XX)

to

talk

be

said, could

of those

delivered
eve

of his

take

agitators.

in the

Town

assuming

the

PREFACE

post of Ambassador

to

haughty attitude
of opposition,
schemes

Rome, adopted

aspirationsand
not
Government
the EngHsh
was
that
and
declared
disposed either to allow its proceedings to be fettered
or
Hmited, or to suffer a microscopic minority to
towards

national

"

These

its administration."

and

its acts

control

have

ideas

imagined.
organised,and

made

The

was

it

National

Indian
has

now

rapid

more

has

Party

reckoned

be

to

than

advance

with

been

cutta
in Cal-

Utopia of yesterday may

quite possibly be the reality of to-morrow.
There
is one
question that presents itself whenever
London.

in

and

is named.

India
and

50,000

The

How

can

few

of officials

thousands

60,000 English troops, supported by

or

Empire
is suppUed us
The
milHons
of souls ?
of 300
answer
Professor
Seeley explains
by the English themselves.
in India not by conquest,
that England is established
has
she
that
revolution
but by a domestic
inspired
carried out
has been
and
by the
guided, and which
her
Indians
themselves.
England's superiority and
might
powerful we
genius for organising, however
soldiers

150,000 native

rule

and

maintain

an

her
rendered
have
being, could never
capable of conquering by military force alone the
of India with its 250 millions of population,
Continent

of it

conceive

if there
The

had

as

found

been

fact

fundamental

in that

country
India

is that

true

had

no

nations.

jealousy

whatever
foreigner,because India had no sense
there
of national
no
India, and
was
unity, because
therefore, properly speaking, no
foreigner.

of the

And
"

Sir

We

Government

John Strachey adds

have

never

no

"

destroyed

national

in

sentiment
(xxi)

India
has been

national
wounded

PREFACE

pride has
design or

national

no

through

any

The
dust.

used

East
At

of

have

be

to

humiliated, and

merit

nationaUties

Indian

no

been

but

own,

because

existed."

nothing

infinite distance

an

our

this not

than

more

of

ghttering

time, certain

masses

of

the prejudicesof race, of religion,

humanity, which
and
of sect prevented from
understanding and uniting
of confused
in a
state
themselves, were
agitation.
But
mark
the misunderstandings are
how
vanishing,
how
minds
hatreds
are
are
abating, how
becoming
who
enlightened with a gleam of sudden
light. Men
knew
only the village,the valley,or the mountain
where
and
born
died, catch a glimpse, in
they were
the
Uve
widening horizon, of other countries where
countless men
like themselves, having, if not the same
faith and
the same
origin,or at
language, the same
least the same
destiny.
The

time,

thrill of
revealed

collective

their
to

their

their

them

of their

has, for the

first

tie of brotherhood

listless and

Races

strength.
past are coming

life

and

for centuries

dumb

long sleep and

awakening
Nations
which
knew
not themselves
to life.
are
ing
gainMillions
of human
self-consciousness.
beings who
face
bent
the ground under
lived with
on
foreign
and
erect
dreaming of
masters, are liftingthemselves
a

different

their

there
and

the

is, as
more

is

Islam

widespread
aroused

in India

masses

are

stirred

organising itself,and

of life

current

it were,

century, which
its

The

future.

depths,

itself into

out

as

whole.

Renascence,

of

that

than
the

more

whole

world

to

flinging

Everywhere
consummate

the

sixteenth
renewed

and

youth.

Hitherto, all our

thoughts had
( xxii )

been

centred

on

Japan.

PREFACE

had

of Asia.

whole

its Eastern

on

She
flank.

Mohammedan,
dormant

of all.

is but

On

Japan

But

in the

the Continent

irresistible forces.

the

is not

daring outpost, situated

there

East

Confucian

and

victories,

of her

suddenness

the
rapid uplifting,
impressed the minds

Her

There

are

Buddhist,

lying

are

to

be

found

of which
springs of energy the murmur
will
which
have
we
hardly begun to catch, and
inundate
as
Europe as soon
they leave their channel.
M.
birth
The
of patriotism in India," writes
Piriou, is the most
important fact and the newest

inexhaustible

"

'

"

since

Brahmanism

founded."

was

in his
Russo-Japanese War," M. Cheradame
turn
remarks,
by the novelty and greatness of the
problems which she is suddenly propounding, opens
of the world's
era
history."
up a new
Lord
Curzon
and
the
high Indian officials whose
responsibiUtyin regard to the preparationof this war
is so
ceased, during the
great, because
they never
the
jingoism of their
period of tension, to arouse
of the Japanese, did
and
the Chauvinism
countrymen
"

The

"

foresee

not

nations

also

the

Several

result.

neither

were

more

of

the

European

more
foreseeingnor
taken
by the Enghsh

juster view was

his Ministers
and
Government.
VII
King Edward
policy;
pursued throughout a wise, loyal,and humane
unable
to contest
but they were
pubhc opinion,led as
it was
by Imperialistsand speculatorsin London.
Indian
has
be
to
Every mistake
paid for. The
sagacious.*

problem
problem.
it forces

is

propounded, and with

Not
only is England

itself upon

attention

the

nations.
^

Victor

B"raxd.

Lord

Curzon

et le Tibet.

( xxiii )

it the

whole

concerned
of all the

Asiatic
with

it ;

Western

AUTHOR'S

It

is

to

thank,

for

impossible
all

organising

their

here

me

who

those

their

me

with

their

in

co-operation

contributed

and

wish

I should

as

the

to

advice

as

well

as

support.

Let

however,

me,

express

warmest

thanks

valuable

encouragement

The

the

to

the

duly

with

all of

met

whom

helped
and

manner,

in

route

en

of

can

in

me

the

whose

ture,
Litera-

themselves

with

of

value

kindness

and

retain

various

and

Russia,
cordial

most

which

the

forget

ever

Persia,

the

and

Inscriptions

good-will,

Asiatic

French

associated

Nor

appreciate.

officials

of

Museum

expedition

the

Society,

whose

Loubet,

lacking.

never

Academy

the

and

M.

President,

and

respectful

most

my

was

Geographical

Association,

my

lent

enterprise

my

thank,

to

expedition,

my

of

success

NOTE

India,

obliging

grateful

recollection.

Lastly,
to

M.

the

reader,

exquisitely
pen

ought

Georges

accept
the

has

so

particularly

Leygues,

thankless
and

to

tasteful
often

come

who

has

of

task

to

writer

whose
the

XXV

kind

introducing

friend,

aid

gratitude

my

been

my

to

attest

enough
my

work

Michael

Carr",

graceful

and

of my

to
to

that

refined

inexperience.

CONTENTS
V

CHAPTER
FROM

YARKAND

TO

GLACIERS

THE

THE

OF

SASSER
PAGE

On

the
of

way
Poskam

Davan

Tibet

Some

"

antelopes

"

of

of
The

"

Karakorum

The

Legend

"

oases

Shah-Dulah

"

Camp

Little

to

Murgo-Bulak

of

Turkestan

Chinese

Sughet

Davan

LITTLE

the

first halt
"

The

bungalows

Upper

From

Quetta
Khan

to

Kelat

Loris

"

The

and
the

An

trade

route

"

His
On

"

Mahmud

camel's

back

and

river

frontier

Afghan
"

sand

Departure

for

the

The

snow

fortress

"

tempest
Meshed

loop

was

at

dead

"

dam

Hilmend

"

.157

consulate

British

the

at

xxviii

"

town

on

Navigating

^A
The

Birjand ^Wretched
successfully looped.
halt

"

MESHED

Nasretabad

Christmas

"

"

"

the

At

"

TO

KOH-I-MALEK-SIAH'

its ancient

frontier

Persian

"

"

VIII

CHAPTER

the

Thirst

of

Desert

the

"

opium-smoker

the

The

"

Highness
the

Haozdar

.131

of Koh-i-Malek-Siah.

FROM

The

"

Srinagar,

landscapes

Ramzan,

"

An

Custom-house

Arrival

"

Monastery
"

with

posts
evening of mourning at Merui
and
Robat
stage by moonhght
on

storm

DESERT

Nushki

"

chortens

VII

interview

Baluchis

in

Our

"

its white

Baluchistan.

to

way

BALUCHISTAN

"

Nubra

the

Lama

Kashgar

CHAPTER
THE

of

and

"

"

the

103

"

KASHMERE

valley

Tibet

On

"

"

"

Khardong

Indus

Tibetan

comb-seller

the
.

AND

Panamik

"

Little

of India

Venice

the

The

"

of

pass

of

of the

TIBET

Tibetans

the

among

Prayer-mills
the
capital
"

in

Sasser

the

glaciers of

Kilyang
"

VI

CHAPTER

On

of

"

The

"

Ak-Tagh

"

Story
Brangsa-Sasser.
pass

"

THROUGH'

goitrous inhabitants

the

days
.

a
"

in
.

185

LIST

ILLUSTRATIONS

OF

PAGE

NO.

1.
2.

The

The

5.

Persian

10.
11.

Author's
of

View

2
4

Travels

Abdul-Abad

Defile
in

East

the

to

the

going

Plain

Madan-i-Firuza

The

"

Bagdad

from
Gam-Ab

of

that

Donkeys

Gems

Turquoise
Gate

at

Madan

the

15.

A
The

17.

Tomb

18.
19.
20.

.22

the

Atrek
.

the

of

Loading
The

27.

The

The

.34
36

Tomb

"

the

the

the

the

the

of

of

Baggage

Camp

Kirghiz

on

of

on

the

the

40

.44
Station

Telegraphic

Bussaga

of

"

Ala"

Trans-

an

"

Kaufmann

^The

"

and

Kara-Kul

52

Kara-Kul

of the

South

The

"

(4.080

metres)
.

and

Enselme

"

The

Stone
.56

Rung-Kul
Rock

"

"

Zabieha
60

metres)

Leaving
of

the

the

Isolated

(4,540

Ku-Rundi

Kara-Kul
to

of

the

Moz-Kul

Commanding

Banks

the

in

Refuge

the

Camp

Bank

Pass

by

Ameer

.48

of

Our

"

Shade

sent

the

Camel
Dome

South

Ak-Ba"tal

of

46

Banks

Ice-Lake
and

Palace

Interpreter

our

Bor-Teppeh

the
Chain

the

.62

Korne"-Tartik
on

Pamirski-Post

the

"

.64

Rung-Kul
our

around

Mukur-Chetchak-Chi

Officer

Kitchen

in

the
66

open
28.

.42

near

the

and

and

Jighit
Our

metres)

Faithful

from

seen

in

26.

and

Aravang

his

Trans-Ala"

25.

.32

and

Tomb

near

and

the

Yarkand.

to

(3,520

Trans-Ala"

on

.38

Yoorts

our

caravan

Lunch

Tamerlane's

from

pass

Group

24.

Samarkand

Kokand

Andijan

"

of

Refuge
Lamp

the

Door

23.

and

Bokhara

at

Entrance

"

at
"

Chief

Erection

the

Ali-Abad

Prison

Market-Place

or

Kokand

at

Itinerary

The

between

A"-Bala

22.

Hunter

before

"

Sheep-Market

Our

.16

Mines

.30

Samarkand

at

Taldik
21.

the

to

us

carry

18

of

Valley

Upper

Reghistan

Kirghiz

will

Frontier

Mosque

16.

.......

Gazelle

The

Executioners

"

"

12

Road

Madan

Nishapur

at

"

the

Bokhara

"

14

Russo-Persian

The

,10
Meshed

to

the

on

The

"

........

Centenarian

Gorge

Deh-Nemek

Meyame"

Mines

Dyers'

in

of
of

name

Pilgrimage

the

"

Kaleh

Euphonious

on

in

of Tortoises

Washing

14.

Ivan-i-Keif

of

"

ancient

the

with

Arabs

of

13.

to

.....

"

Village

met

"

back

12.

is about

......

the

Dwelling

The

Khorassan

Frontispiece

Yoort.

Enselme

......

Turquoise
9.

of his

Front

...

Village
8.

crossed

we

on

Children

Ruined

We

in

Abbas's

Caravansary

Pretty
7.

of

Map

old

4.

6.

river

the

General

which

in

Carriage
cross

3.

of Mukur-Chetchak-Chi

Aksakal

The

..........

"

Volosno"e

"

of

his

Shah-Djan,

Wife,

and

our

Guide
70

Rhaim-Berdi

xxix

LIST

OF

ILLUSTRATIONS

NO.

29.

PACK

Group
The

||,

front

in

The

31.

Halt

32.

The

Chinese

33.

The

Ascent

fallen
our

before

Citadel

"

the

Kok-Mu"nak

Flock

of

Yaks

where

On

36.

Our

37.

Colonnade

Unfortunate
Red

of

Wife

38.

The

39.

Street

40.

Street

41.

During
for

42.

Map

43.

In

and

in

and

The

"

Rapids
Valley

taken

from

of the

of

Refuge

of

Kok-Mu"nak

86
.

Arpalik

of

.84

Wretched

In

"

Kara-Davan

Kara"l

of

barred

placed on Yaks
Tang-i-Tar

was

the

90
of

Spurs

2,870 metres

at

.94

Arpalik

104

in

placed

are

Mill in the

Oasis

horses,

circle and

of Bora

Srinagar

to

the

journey,

our
Gorges beyond
On
nearing Kilyang-Davan

made

walk

to

the

round
.106

.108

reaching

on

Yaks

the

road

which

hesitated

men

to

stopped

were

to

110

reload
44.

Hill

The

on

of

Banks

5,000

at

the

summit

of which

the

Kara-Kash

The

Interior

Court-yard

46.

The

Source

of the
horses

Saddle

Ruskem

47.

The

Kizil-Yar

48.

The

tents

"

couple

of

was

Tibetan

buried

on

Antelopes

the
shot

were

Pass

pitched

on

of

Fort

spot called
.

Balti-Brangsa

114

Sughet-Kurgan

Karakorum

the

at
.

Red

or

the

at

exhausted

"

112
Little Chinese

of the

arrive

metres)

Shah-i-Dulah

of altitude

metres

45.

Our

"

(5,510

Pass

.116

"

120
site

the

of

the

Ancient

of

Camp

126

Murgo-Bulak
49.

before
50.

Yarkand

crossing

the

Ford.

of

Nature

Gate

Ground

the

of the

Village

52.

Tibetan

53.

The

Main

55.

The

Leh

56.

The

Tibetan

The

58.

Group

59.

60.

Camel

Corner

in

of the

Drawing

The

"

Shayok,
.

(5,365 metres)

Taghar

"

132

first Tibetan

House

seen

in

met

on

the

view

of

General

"

Nubra

of the

Valley

Taghar

from

the

of

Basgo

from
the

River
Water

.136
.138

.140

Leh
.

seen

of Chalets

of the

.128

Granite

on

Village

Himalaya

57.

Sasser-La

of the

Square
Plain

banks

.134

Engraved

54.

the

Prayer-Mill

Peasants

Prayer

on

of Panamik

Spango

to

way

the

Halt

"

the

at

with

Temple

The
51.

Beggar

at

Blind

Old

92

.......

of the

stage,
"

88

96

Ak-Shur

"

80

chaos

of the

Poskam-Bazar

hour

the

terrible

in the

Daughter

Yarkand

take

the

View

first week

the

an

"

in Yarkand

of each

end

in

Rocks

Muz-Tagh-Ata.

Baggage

our

Yaks

over

slept after crossing the

we

leaving Tor-Bashi

35.

.78

Ford

suddenly appeared

Yakka-Arik

of

Towers

Kurgan

74

82

of

Chi-Chag-Lik

Tash-

the

crossing

Defile

"

Tash-Kurgan

of

of the

stones

of

Shah-Djan

of Ak-Be"t
.

way

One

Kirghiz

of

of Se"d-Hassan

Mazar

"

"

Volosno"e

the

among

of Ili-Su

Turlan-Shah

at

"

of the

"

Tamascha

Sarikolis

30.

34.

"

Goat

Yoort

of the

Spitok Lamasery
in the
Upper Valley

.144

Zodji-La

Pass

of the

Picturesque Valley of Sindh

at

Srinagar

from

Well

( XXX

"

Kelat

146
.

at
.

Indus
.

Wheat-Harvesting
near

the

Saspul
.

.150
.152
154
.

.158

LIST

ILLUSTRATIONS

OF

NO.

PAGE

61.

General

62.

Kelat"

63.

Kelat

64.

Map

65.

View
Gate

Pigeon-cot

68.

Ameer

We

Station
70.

72.
73.

Map

Persian

Se"stan

Se"stan
her

The

75.

Plain

Afghan

Customs

The

"

.178

Frontier

of Hurmak

Springs

where
.186

.188
.

Fortress

of Haozdar

Baluchi

Woman

Weaving

Village

Corner

of the

of

the

repair

the

"

The

of the

of

Banjar

.190

Carpet

at

the

of

entrance

Hilmend
Bend

Fort

Abandoned

and

Reeds

of

Peasants

On

"

the

going

to

Kemak

198

of Kuhak
the

on

banks

Rud-i-Se!stan

the

of

the

covered

Rud-i-Se!stan
with

Tamarisk
202

Nasretabad

by

with

Brilliant

Camel-drivers

of

Escort

carrying large

French

and

Cossacks
and

Russian
204

Flags
Djuma-Khan
Birjand
Snow

of Zahidan

196

Fort

Villageof
Steep Banl^ of

Palace

Town

"........

The

leave

of

....

Se"stan

Ruined

Group

194

Nasretabad

near

of the

Ramparts

and

preceded

80.

the

Se"stan

Ruined

Banks

Interior

79.

176

192

Modern

77.

We

"

....

distance

Persian

Mounts

Hut

76.

78.

their

on

with

the

The

"

penetrates into
.

of the

boy,

face

in

174
.

Wool

Spinning

road

Large
.

Distilling Apparatus

the
our

the

on

"

.172

Saindak

to

Depression

Southern

"

Gate

74.

Persian

road
face

ourselves

of Koh-i-Malek-Siah

Ka"nat
the

71.

found

Tratoh
.

Dustok

the

of

Well

superintends
on

"

Thana

Karodak

Interpreterand

God-i-Zireh

"

the

the

at

Bungalows

suddenly
the

of

Shade

the

in

Camels

Riding

two

of

Zabieha

"

our

of the

with

166

.....

front

stopped

Flock

Shah

One

168
in

had

Baluchi

Our

"

........

Pack-Camels

Caravan

69.

Nushki

at

164

of Baluchistan

Ameer

of Baluchistan

Tamarisk

Our

67.

of the

Trade-road

162

wall

outer

Residence

The

"

160

Kelat

of the

the

"

the

66.

of

and

of

one

Cossacks

our

on

the

Roof

of

House

at

206
the

in the

Ameer

of

Mountains

Ka"nat,

Birjand

near

of Torbet-i-Heidari

xxxi

"

Returning

in

the
208

....

AFGHANISTAN

AROUND

CHAPTER

FROM

from

Departure

with

the

Madan

to

If

which

country
I

haunted

of

wished

of

spoke

had

through
attempting
for

Asiatic
wish

least

plans

my

formerly

that

Enselme,

and

he
full

reason

(1)
(2134)

go

as

been

long

possible

as

to

of

the

everyone
them.

round

artillery captain
me

agreed

on

to

unforeseen
so

one

already

territories

an

of

is

times

me

and

try

attractive.

I"

to

way

seductive.

and

closely

the

as

accompanied

adventure
very

to

to

Manchuria,
an

and

the

there

I had

as

forbidden

were

at

follow

"

city.

four

Continent,

to

On

holy

mysterious

Djalil

"

Asia,

Having

frontier,

Kabul

the

Meeting

"

Prince

"

Sharud

Central

both

the
the

with

Ameer

and

of

Khorassan

smokers

Meshed,

"

map

of

Infested

"

mines

seems

impassable

else,

moonlight

into

penetrated

who

at

Opium

"

Afghanistan.

mean

that

by

MESHED

caravansaries

Bagdad

Turquoise

"

TO

The

"

of

pilgrims

glance

we

TEHERAN

Teheran

ballet

Persian

much

journey

join

in

me

incidents,
the

more

AROUND

AFGHANISTAN
Paris

Leaving
Teheran
the

Persian

more

two

the

At

me.

to

me

Maugin,

great honour
His

of

journey

in

Majesty Muzaffaru'ddin,

who

cordial

help

contemplated
It

for

our

from

bring us

the

his

across

only

now

in

to introduce

into

in that

Turkestan,

of

had

us

the

private audience
assured
of

course

for

the

by

of

us

his

journey

we

stage

to Askhabad

This

railway.

the preparations

hasten

to

us

first

journey, the

Transcaucasian

in

empire.

remained

Teheran

they

welcomed

was

colleagues,and

received

most

the

to

lection
gratefulrecol-

Finally,both

being

once

hospitalitywhich

British

Baluchistan.

India,and

tutor

te,

good enough

was

simplify my

to

find

Charg" d'Affaires^Count

our

and

Cot

Legation

who

In

Schneider, the

keep

cordial

by

his Russian

helped

way

and

Doctor

ever

reached

hindrance.

pleasure to

Joseph

French

delightful way

d' Apchier le

Mr.

I shall

of the liberal

gave

the

acquaintances,

Princes.

Imperial

March, 1906, we

April without

had

physician, and

Shah's

of

capital,I
old

of

21st

15th

the

on

the

on

of which

before
was

by

we

no

was

to

took

the
the

means

easiest.
The

road

from

Teheran

frequented except by
But

there

the

is

apply

management

in

wretched

regular and

single individual,
to

to

order

to

but

is

of

caravans

little

pilgrims.

vice,
well-organisedpostal ser-

of which
rich

Meshed

is in

Persian,

get the

required.
(2)

means

to

the
whom
of

hands

of

we

transport

had
we

the

On

in

carriage was

somewhat
with

in the

softness

humour

and

of the

appearance

Their

this

tails, as

women

took

We

with

and

le

at

us

black

in

once

the

was

and

brilliantly
caparisoned.
with

blue stones,

who

in

delightfuleffect.
certain

interpretera
who

man

in

wore

tresses, brooches

their

the most

as

good

bred
thorough-

coquettish display they

in

us

original

of four

sparkled,inlaid

spoke

French

been

had

considerable

without

not

harem, promised

confidence

badly, and

very

of

us

us

respectable old

divans

turquoise with

imitation

tightly

cushions, although wanting

finest

crown

to

we

precaution,been

put

collars

where

house,

magnificent team

of the

horses

the

morning

springs,

What

gave

the

START

unpleasing. The

the

of the

comfort.

as

in

Cotte's

not

was

; but

relative

their

of Mr.

front

cord

nine

at

strained,had,

bound

and

April

Its effect

guests.

were

of

27th

GOOD

Abbas,

but

procured

difficulty,
by

Mr.

little
for us,

d'Apchier

Maugin.
last

At
with
had

taken
up

sign from
with

ready

possessionof
took

we

the

us, and

final leave

Abbas, the driver

magnificent

flourish

when
of

our

started
of

connected

excitement

the

of the

unknown

baggage

our

host.

Then,

his four

whip,

was

at

stallions

and

we

left

were

carried

in brilliant sunshine.

Teheran
It

were

departure, the apprehension

our

loaded

we

ten

was

o'clock

in the

along by

the

chains

hills of which

of

brisk

trot

morning.
of

the

(3)

the

We

horses

between

exquisitelydehcate

two

tints,

AFGHANISTAN

AROUND

of rose,

now

of wonderful

sky

we

at

showed

ventured
of

way

twirls

few
clean

and

The

far

cut

The

resist the

relay
for

the

horses

tainly
cer-

could

have

; but

worth

well

old

would

range

was

his

noting.

piece,into

string.

It

alight.

was

"

Meshed

and

big
on

knife

in

an

asked

do.

in

very

trees,

Enselme

his characteristically

show

to

us

of the

trunks

fail to

never

under

tea

the

tender

bark

arrow.

are

square

the

had

hand,

the

on

monotonous

we

fancy by etching

gardens, almost

to

somewhat

temptation

post-caravansaxies which

uncomfortable

he

in

travellers

Teheran

from

inhabitants

suspended by

initials

our

piercedby

Persian

before

Sherif-Abad, where

as

Mussulman

heart

learn

was

roaches,
cock-

There

He

whole

continued

Parisian
a

the

an

quick.

as

not

sole

chef.

wood-charcoal

the

and

seriouslyto

could

with

European cooking

plane-trees. Abbas,

the

as

to

salad-basket

road

fashion

much

have

to

as

tunately
for-

night there.

were

charcoal, after kindling one

the

of small

kind

we

insects,the

his skill

lighting

put

the

yet precious hovels.

face

to

against a

up

i but
first relay,

acquainted

other

us

had

have

point

becoming

wretched

those

Abbas

further

and

the

obliged to spend

not
a

bugs,

found

we

of

opportunity

shown

were

purity.

were

and

Later

He

purple,

Khatun-Abad

At

of

of

now

all

are

all built

alike,have
placed
on

court-yard

terrace,

above

traveller.

(4)

the

at
same

no

intervals

on

plan, and

surrounded
the

peculiarly

entrance,

by
a

stables
kind

the

road

are

very

for the
of

room

They

the

the

trees

scarcely reheved

fruit

poppies. There,

trees, roses, and

other

the

hour

of

they

of devotion
the

leaving

entered

upon

desert.

On

of considerable
the

left

of the

formed

crest

Salt

the

common

stood
its

further

the

the

right

strangely

gleams

last

the

glaciers

the

on

of which

we

part of the

with

while

with

till the

plane trees,

Teheran

Demavend^

Mountains,"

is all rosy

in

each

to

poets,

clearlyformed

overlooking

importance,
"

of

shade

of the

High.

the Most

to

cool

magnificent peak

old

few

pieceof

aloud

recite

or

side

the

together

region which

the

towered

read

them

brings

by

whole,

as

their

on

by

lines of the

harmonious

outburst
On

there

prayer

shade

sit in the

carpet, the Persians

streams, and

of the beds

Allah, grass, bushes,

will of

the

at

grow,

the centre

bordered

walks

symmetrical rigidity is

the disorder

by

high

feet

poplars ;

of several
this

and

of

row

picturesqueness.

twelve

wall

startingpoint

same

where

by

wall, is

the

inside,along

in

wanting

are

surrounded

are

forms

and

features

strange

VIEW

IMPRESSIVE

AN

of the

settingsun.
During
too

this first

insufferable.

its substantial
; but

sun

the

The

heat

was

and
restless,
1

Altitude

Our
roof

we

brougham

were

Ivan-i-Keif

oppressive and
it

was

5,670

had

well closed

was

(5)

to

unhealthy, my
when

and

merciless

spend

most

scarcelydaybreak
metres.

of

rays

compelled
was

heat

the

found

not

interceptedthe

night we
of

caravansary

stage

in the

intolerable.

sleep was
the

bustle

AROUND
of

AFGHANISTAN

life outside

brought

where

I witnessed

going

to

the

wind

west

but

fields

Abbas

seated

carried

that

the

carriage was
the

the

was

Arabs

Meshed.

To

creatures

undertake,

in

going

privationupon

Jordan,

the

same

tatooing

on

the

accompanied
feeble

the

cruppers.

the
with

the

In

in

not

as

the

little

hundred

narrow

kilometres
This

left it to

We

of

Bagdad

to

fanatical

poor

in their

sacks,

days'journey

living

"

costume,

the

same

and

hands
a

few

had

We

relay

and
of

its

on

the

had

caused
to

by
spend

reached

now

smokers.

the

fatal

ground by

but

drug,
the

side

mother-of-pearlfigures.
(6)

and

dilapidatedcaravansary

opium

smoke

many

with

its

were

donkeys,

on

wounds

We

same

They

time, however,

near.

of the

little food

get but
open

no

was

banks

me

type, the

riding

women

have

the

forehead.

which

beasts

China, lying

lamp

old

torrent.

dates

on

court-yard full

Khorassan

few

met

villageof Geshlag
its

so

seven

these

formerly

rest, and

any

pity :

on

by

emaciated

hardly

way,

that

was

of the

Heaven
a

journey
our

pilgrimage from

with

hot

charity. They stronglyreminded

Bedouins
"

for

outstripped caravans

we

on

nearlya

"

road

Pylae Caspiae."

obtain

long road

of the

bed

desert,where

wretched

that

sunk
"

called

to the

return

obliged

deeply

pass

The

villagers

our

his back

on

useful.

decidedly

of

river barred

terrace,

donkeys.

resumed

we

across

us

was

follow

as

Presently

man

to

their

on

blowing

o'clock.

eight

at

the

on

picturesque departure

was

hastily

me

of

The

THE

the

and

did

awaken

these

while

refused

Abbas

which

carrying :

then

had

thing,a thing I
took

mother

the

mouth

and
.

the

We

sleep.
^

to

arms.

She

for

of

never

less
expressionaside

child

she

It

uttered

was
a

havoc

much

so

pacify it

the

poison, half

the

of

the

where

in China

breathed

had

she

just

into

inhaled

creature, stupefied,went

puny

poor

terms

of, unimaginable

even

smoke

in

I drew

appeared.

to

near

come

Her

the

inhalation

hps, and

had

in turn.

us

seen

warm

them

astonishment

something

unheard

that

long

child's

the

opened
its

with

idol,nevertheless, makes

hlack

arrival

watched

noticed

face

saw

the

curiosity

timid

we

concealed

thin

pale

And

cry.

half

which

clothes

with

Our

pipe.

translate.

to

to each

eyes wandered
the

begging

was

pattern,

tea.

child in her

and

different

of

beings, and
and

eggs

of the

movement

smokers,

with

table

our

our

HABIT

coal taken

burning

bowl

any

the

woman

the

unhappy

taking

Among
a

by

placed on

not

among

is Ht

opium

and

tongs

squat, the pipe is of

here sit

smokers

OPIUM

hastened

of

den

this

leave

to

nightmares.
During
in

the

of

storm

kcdeh

of Aradan

This

women,

to

walk

disastrous
who

are

sucking

sand, leaving

custom

inveterate
an

opium

on

hke

is

instead

(7)

So

of

that
a

proceeded

had

we

see

feeding

ruined

the

ancient

citadel.

overcome

many

Persian

children

unable

apparently practised by

smokers.

pipe

an

Russians

the

we

right

our

looked

which

before

Formerly,

risen,and

had

halt the wind

bottle.

AFGHANISTAN

AROUND

Turkestan, the Turkomans,

their

on

As

cattle.

in its dreadful

horde

which, by

sentinel

Turkomans

he

the

in

horde

went

razzia, could
than
end

this

to

peaceable tribes
The

formed
about.

of

further

of

on

since

is

attitude

bronze,

the

called

Every
the echo

whenever

tocsin,took

refuge

The

pointed
disap-

its cruel mission

on

is not

It

Russians

the

fierce bandits

more

put

an

in

the
that

then

since

only

the

having escaped

restored

been

from

trumpet.

ploughing.

surmounted

of several
nimble

the

in the

the

among

of Khorassan.

cone

These

in the

then

were

barricades.

it

have

of

to carry

his

is its tank

perching
their

they

the

the raids of the

watch,

only picturesquepoint about

Ali-Abad

from

fortresses

or

of

sound

enrollingthese

tranquillity can

women,

raised

were

"

might be,

regiments, and

Cossack

as

forty years

by

the

erected

resume

thirty or

there

husbandman,

Persian

the

and

and

fortress

refuge

of that kind

sound

the

repeated

of

on

the

living being, whoever

sold,

places

Kalehs

always

signalledwith

were

everything

be

"Alamans"

the

"

laid waste

generallyeverywhere
"

of these

fields numbers

veritable

The

to

passage

villagesand

of the

centre

pillagingtribe,

them

with

taking

way,

children, and

"

Persia, they

of Northern

scourge

and

savage

Khorassan.

into

inroads

fearful

made

narrow

passages,

of

some

take

and

at

attention
Persian

pointed

which

little creatures

run

delight in

times

like

cap

goats

in

seem

ornaments

The

Fr"miet.
.

(8)

of

caravansary

by

tiers,on

of motionless
work

the

I'ERSIAN

DEFILE

TO

THE

CHILDREN-

EAST

OF

IVAN-I-KEIF

post which

preceded
obliged

were

we

before

It

become

having

muUahs

the

got ready

"

we

of

Abdul-

Shah

of

along

the

the

the

the

and
all
I

caused

followed
his

at

attached

to the

the bell

rings;

they
In

are

the

four

on

swung

stops

emperor,

the
of

has

ruined
the old

as

century in

preter
inter-

who

might
or

the

raised,at intervals

spacious

caravans,

business

pilgrims and
had

never

the

aged

desert

the

of

by

well

as

our

to be

people

the

given barley and

were

was

imitators,

any

hostelries

are

almost

now

ruin.

present

was

brougham

name

This

formerly comfortable

fallingto

had

We

prayer.

seventeenth

Unfortunately, he

men.

took

awakened

were

to

at

atmosphere
length

at

afar

benefactor

had
travellers,

refuges for

as

from

see

bear.

to

routes

night

Lasghird, the

Abbas, whose

named

father

inns

in

proud

justly be

the

The

then

Abad,

you

built

was

second

our

we

us.

rested

off.

which

the

dawn,

had

own

cooler, we

refresh

were

caravansary

reign of

At

to

reached

kaleh

spent

callingthe people

milk

We

our

raining, and

was

rest.

excellent

**

We

markedly

well-earned

by

till

horses, and

all the

taken

wait

to

startingagain.

Deh-Nernek.

had

us

DEVICE

INGENIOUS

AN

and

ready
little

feeding

stakes.

hammock.
as

soon

thus

in

straw

they

they

of

as

they

finished

have

they

mock
ham-

canvas

enormous

long

indicate

horses

the

sort

An
As

as

of

bell

was

eating

are

the

of themselves

ling
tink-

that

to start.

village of Sorkhay,
(9)

famous

for

the

AROUND

AFGHANISTAN
of

growing

which

melons,

size,^

met

we

ourselves, was

going

attain, it

is

with

prince who,

Meshed.

to

the

Ahevant,

following relay,

pretty, clean-looking, with

of

avenues

told

of

the

the

Prince

he

had

mines

turquoise
a

gave

been

hke

his

us

who

Nights
recover

had

to

get further

us

eggs,

and

far

not

was

all

Sheerazad.

gave

of

Seven

The

precedes

as

had
we

word
the

are

Mirza
name

offered

he
Easter

eggs,

journeyed

We

enough

simply

who

themselves
us

it appears

table the

an

to

in

for

name
"

means

(10)

means

literate."

risen
of

front

the

carpet

enormous

camel's

prince

have

Djalil with

of

shining

was

"

country

moon

seemed

which

after

the

in

were

before

around

placed
it

to

undoubtedly
that

leaving the

were

stretched

melons

Arabian

merchant

common

fallen ; the

earth, placed

colours

many

the

personage

was

bazaars.

We

sign. Musicians,
the

our

Persian

mistaken.

Night

caravansary,

like

of

the

graces

us

Gokay.

as

brightly. Just

It

good

our

red

in

together as
1

into

informed

prince of

treasure.

ness
cool-

untied

and

noble

as

clear

the

contractor

disguised himself

coloured

found

sky,

and

This
of

there

repose

made

Madan.

stolen

some

nurseries, cool
and

Djalil talked

impression

vague

to

village,

new

of the

invited

recently

of

here

softness

landscape,

tongue.

that

The

is

poplar

trees, and

young

babbling brooks.

of

He

ordinary
extra-

Djalil-Mirza.^

name:

out

said, an

royal

load.

prince";

when

it

gesture invited
harsh

effect

from

of the

kind

he

The

heavens

shot

out,

were

the

and

by

offered

wondering

enchantment,

was

Alas

awake.
.

did

not

passed

we

to

of

it

we

original

that

moon,

much

flesh,

new

whole

the

during

and

had

we

very

for

if

as

ceased,

awake,

were

us

and

the

me

of

ray

Then,

over

fleas, hungry

remind

to

cease

no

long hair,

music

It seemed

Young

in

most

dancing.

cloud

gone.

dream.

of

of

preseryes.

shadow,

extinguished, the

was

everything
had

the

spectators

kind

by

accompanied

dancer,^ with

boy

young

the

proceeded

pistachios and

us

sylph-like, from

Hght

which

sparkling; suddenly,

picturesque

the

reed

rustic

were

moonlight,

counterbalance

to

melodies

Persian

of

tambourine,

sit,and

to

us

DANCE

PERSIAN

night.
May

in the

on

outbreak

At

an

thinking of

are

capital?

Already

feared

was

shall

we

We

1st.

have

are

we

mountains.

Damgan,

mandust,

we

MoUa, where
*

to

We

large

After

mosques.

Persian

women

on

passing through
found

axe

the

forbidden

The

Persian

splendid.
the

the

for

capped
snow-

then

Sed-Abad,
its

at

ancient

villageof

MehDeh-i-

as

far

as

prince smoking

his

Kalyan.^

frantic pace

to appear

dance.
'

toward

celebrated

is

weather

at

when

knows

Who

the way

halted

town

galloped at
we

the

going

left,a popular

we

date.

Here

news

early hour

that

on

when

is

What

Paris.

water-pipe.

(11)

in

public and, consequently,

AFGHANISTAN

AROUND
He

warned

terrible

desert at

the

of the

"

the

house

Uttle

have
the

to

us

liked to

but

its bad

we

repute, and

host

Our

introduce

and

leave

to

that

the next

started

we

and

fashion

anxious

were

amicable

very

days

several

us

arrival.

our

night

merchantmen,

European

celebrate

keep

in

us

in

built

to

governor,

with

town

centre

the

spend

of the

head

or

welcomed

who

brilliantly
hghted
would

"

Taguir-Bashi

Armenian
in

way,

traversed

we

Sharud, the

as

to be able to

dehghted

were

we

old

an

far

as

pace

lengthy

too

and

bug, the

epidemic.

There
with

rapid

the

"

avoided

caravansary,

whose

guest

feared

to be

We

this wretched

in

stay

Sharud.

of

bug

troublesome

had

that time

from

presence

against

us

day

dawn.

at

The

road

far

pebbles,as
of

name

as

the

lined with

superb plane
of the

the house
without

of the

Mayor

enthusiasm.

walk

through

here

and

The

become

natives,

into

eight

forced

inoculated

attraction
kind
months

for

by

of anemia
a

kind

to

against

it ; but

live

its

so

of

he

an

avenue

the

mendations
recom-

put

us

where,

winding

this

with

its bite, and

bitten

pronounced

that

sleeping sickness.

(12)

the

insect,

skin

by

has

the

sufferer

after

barred
met

we

have

long

longer any

no

terrible
has

us

into

streets

noxious

their

in

welcomed

badly-jointed gates,

foreigner,when

and

received

were

first floor

with

old

to

place who

of the

the

on

by

Thanks

trees.

However,

the town

there

arrive

you

Taguir-Bashi, we

well-lightedroom

sand

pretty villagewith the harmonious

where

Meyame",

of
difficult,

and

monotonous

was

for

bug,
seven

falls
or

WE

VILLAGE

MET

OF

ARABS

TORTOISES

GOING

IN

ON

PILGRIMAGE

THE

PLAIN

FROM

OF

GARN-AB

BAGDAD

ON

TO

THE

MESHED

MADAN

ROAD

the

around
aides de

with

samovar

The

camp.

and

dust,

of songs

snatches

distance

the

recitingtheir

mullahs

On

of

Abbas-

Abad,

Suddenly

took

But

the

and

we

spend

weather
had

the 5th of
a

point

five

was
were

asked

twenty
and

took

went

was

very

lake

but

of
it

on

shaft, which

uninvitinghouse.

wind

blew

Shur-Ab

as

It

for

the

hurricane,

anxious

very

to

to

us

convey

only Abbas

undertook

sleep on

the

promise.
(13)

the

evening

we

passed
from

was

turquoise

farsaks,viz.,twenty-one

to

salt

enough,

on
place till,

to

start

fiftyfrancs

francs

we

fully
peace-

eagle'snest.

an

broken

"

; the

came

to

which

Madan,

the

near

moving

the

was

picturesque defile.

were

we

of the

shelter.

we

somewhat

met

we

uneventful

changed

May,

in

lay sparkling before

It

night in

Nothing noteworthy

of

of water

was

the

take

to

came

merely passed through

we

first accident

our

to

us

day

golden

note

tortoises

some

on

sheet

The

place

forced

morning,

gathering gloom.

Meizanan.

with

monotonous

picturesquevillagelike

vast

the

in

Kal-Tagh

already

rhythm accompanied

and

next

Further

along.

sky

there

windows

the

and

prayers.

leaving Meyame"

caravansary

us

slow

the

spangled

open

barbaric

in
the

by

be

to

the

through

in

of his

one

deHghtful ;

was

hovered

seemed

turning purple

and

prince DjaUl

evening

which

clouds

deUcate

ACCIDENT

FIRST

OUR

visit.

mines

of

The

tance
dis-

miles.

to obtain

strength of

out

that

miles, and

three

of

we

For

donkeys,
that

good

AFGHANISTAN

AROUND
At

the harmonious

dawn,
We

us.

they

Their

gentlemen

white

me

others.

He

caressed

saddle

found

For

sides

the

Khe"leh
I

was

pack-saddle

behaviour

wards
I after-

as

unholy language.

fields ;
of

hummocks

with

Garm-Ab,only

the

the

men

passed through

we

few

all

on

All

cotton-seed.

noticed, as

we

way

tiers,where

in

arranged

busy sowing

were

its

made

caravan

walking

women

on

roofs.

the

The

plain which
all

was

There

came

we

heat

head

in

It

before

with
a

upon

every

Very good, master,

very

village

poppies.

multitude

of tortoises

moving

and

paces.

left the

we

and
lilies,

ten

was

pitiful
way,
four

as

anemones,

in

o'clock

already stifling.My
a

us

donkeys stepped

our

possible.

the

lay

carpeted

about, which

"

of

kind

on

small

rice-fields

were

the hamlet

as

anxiety,

there

and

of much

studded

country

in the

were

not

cudgel applied unstintedly,and

the

hours

peasants

with

he said

as

whose

cause

did

song

village.

two

through

the
of the

strokes

their

kho"b"^

holy ass,

was

left the

we

its rump

bridle seated

or

of my

the back

few

and

Abbas

shabby-looking than

less

ass

khe"leh

kho"b, Saheb,

and

interpreter, filled

brought

awoke

asses

where

street

plumage

The

harmonise.

on

the

fidgeting impatiently. Sorry long-eared

were

without

the

into

down

went

braying of

white

Enselme's

But
good.

(14)

the

over

the

as

morning,
hung

mount

stopped
driver

gracefully
and
his

cally
methodi-

of the

party

WRONGS

WOMAN'S
undertook

help

of

wrist

short

by

At

plain

we

as

entered

the

we

old

make
their

place.

were

glad to

Suddenly
darken

the

bursts

with

the

in

with

fine

that

put

woman's

rights question

fortunate

countries.
the

donkeys,
the

dry

horn

the

bed

of

seemed

river in

suddenly flung his

me

on

the

deUghted

to

The

ground

in

the

covey

of

heels
;

started
cool

road

(15)

which,

that

air

on

the
these

on

in the

the
mud

at first followed

valleywhere

narrow

took

yet reached

not

we

of their hoofs.

restored

place

So

new.

abated

had

storm

which

had

the storm

of

owner

their

in

us

quite

was

We

clouds

quite oriental, sent

was

and

women

were

we

shelter, and

the

neighbouring house,

felt carpet

When

transition

their

owners

baking

big

thunder.

peals of

unclean

weather

without

almost

we

little animais.

the

to

that

terrible

the

take

to

great

so

Then, too,

in the

break

continuous

all the

away

is

was

swelter.

gracefulness which

less eagerness

from

httle

off to

scurried

they

us

saw

accustomed

sky, and

two

refuge

for

be

there

other

showed

we

heads

our

to

kindly cleansing each

tent

heat, however,

escape

made

beginning

to

The

skins

they

for us, but

way

which

were

When

vermin.

of camel

of

in front

men

Solamanieh.

villageof

little

irksome

that

with

done

had

o'clock

two

from

the

thong.

eleven

where

by

tied to his

he carried

which

steel chain

donkey stopped

My

of the animals

the ardour

awaken

to

and

my

Pegasus

nearly

threw

partridgespursued by

AROUND

AFGHANISTAN

vulture

had

his

grazed

in

ears

passing from

rock

one

another.

to

On

leaving this

gorge

tired camels

were

where

very

Uke

empty

after

cure,

It

existence.
How

beings.

humps

They

which

cool

valleys

appearance

hung

pitiably
there

undergo

they

is with

animals

their

recruit

with

as

strength

in

some
their toil-

resume

human

impaired digestions and

many

to

go

their

leather-bottles.

forty days'

backs

rusticating. Their

wretched, and

was

passed along

we

our

weak
and

spas

watering-places!
For

passed
I

two

hours, which

from

vale

is

"
.

"

driver

Madan?"
.

to

endless,

us

we

vale.

to

the

questioned

seemed

Madan

And

Madan-i-Firuza

Where

Dur

"

n'ist,

Saheb."
Then

he

pointed

like

perched

out

eagle's nest

an

horizon

the

on

village
of

summit

the

on

the

purple-tintedrock.
The

that

than

donkeys.

our

set

lation, looked

The

did

out

our

on

Wayworn,

cut

the
our

use

much

valley.

fax, master.

(16)

exhausted
better

chief

the

figure
of

the

of circumval-

wall
The

closed

after dinner

'Tis not

caravan

fairlylarge dwelling,

in the

eyes

small

our

Fortunately,

immediately

turquoise.

not

which, being

picturesque,but
and

apart for
of

windows

very

since set when

long stage, we

country
the

long

the foot of the fortress.

reached

by

had

sun

we

landscape
in

spite of

was
selves,
our-

rolled ourselves

in

Ch"telet, where

the

"

palace of

the

in

which

making

the

in front

were

hke

showed

out

gave

turquoise is
which,

hke

weather

taken

the

By

turns

fantastic

order.

The

Petro-silicious

down

with

(2134)

in

is

which

which

scintillations
crevasses

flowed

into

crevice

paths
their

we

came

who

use

to

in

clothes,hands

porphyrite.

(17)
s"

has

which

picked for

fissures and

glassthat

the rock

we

ground.

rock^

metallic

by

of the

the

flowers

The

scent.

which

opening

under

we

has

kind

of

hardened

which

it has

reddish, then

grows

sulphur yellow.

workmen,

oil-lamps,have

was

hour

an

us, and

lava, there
petrified

shape

In

mountain

beautiful

is black

to

room

escort

an

wide

flitted around

It is furrowed

passed. Deeper
paler,and

by

"

paste resembling porcelainor

and

explain

fine and

became

step.

every
mine

delicious
found

I could
of the

night
round

spinning

disappearing

some

the surface.

into

old

an

crows

in

dreams

vivid

with

corner

followed

at

passage

herbarium

my

the

all

raged

I awoke

the

mines,

of

Yellow-beaked

Djalil

waterfall.

in numbers

increased

to

precious stones

which

rain

When

eight o'clock
for

of

girls were

gutter in

noise

About
started

ballet

fountains.

fountains

"

sleep peopled

my

lovely

luminous
the

and

wind

disturb

not

Prince

genius

baUet

dreams

my

turquoisequeen.

The

1th.

May
did

the

amiable
a

me

in

taken

was

an

showed

perhaps

on

and

blankets,

our

MINE

TURQUOISE

mine

their
and

in
work
faces

working
smoky
covered

AFGHANISTAN

AROUND
with

altogetherresemble

in each

yard

miners, whose

or

"

the

wages

amala,"
"

the
finally,
kran.

section.

or

foreman

He

oversees

it is the
and

The

existence

annual

8,000,

and

of these

of

francs

or

At

stopped

we

felahs
1

1 kran

to the

very

"

to

wash
=

50

j-of

to

in his
the

drift ;

of the
the

stones

Originallylet

rent

to

rose

the

notice
the

be

to
a

hill and
the

total
four

million
not

output
times

centimes.

(18)

rock

an

as

present
annual

235,000
is said

much,

francs.

far from

primitive way

pieces of

is

gems

at

the

3,000,then

the
statistics,

the

but

for

mentioned

was

Customs

nearly

of the

foot

labourer

; the

break

to

century.

authorities

say,

the

mines

tomans, the

47,000 tomans,

is to

boys

gathers

entrance

exported turquoise

the

by competent
that

and

gradually to 25,000 tomans,

figure. According
value

the

kran

miners

four

or

third,

gems.

of 500

sum

oostad,"

earn

the rock

young

"

the

paid

are

work

pieces to

working

zabit,"or foreman,

boys, who
three

the

gangs

1 J to 2 Krans

from

excavates

six

every

"

in

two

are

second,

young

in the thirteenth

first time

to

the

extract

per diem

the

of the

duty

other

the
first,

has

the miner

carries the broken

each

vary

felah," or

them

o'clock

There

labourers, who

The

turquoise ;

"

of

receives 3 krans

who

makes

nine

evening.

relieve

consists

Each

hours.

which

from

drifts

in the

till nine

morning

which

coal-miners.

our

the

in

work

They

filth

black

of

coating

each

the

village,

in which

the

containing

bit

in three

turquoise. Standing

of

water, the boys trample with

the

on

pointed sharp

the

clay

sole

of

still
the

plaintive
children

forced

are

crying

from

out

itself and
in

hours

several

in

skin

of

they

can,

the

the

by

order

free from
the

the

suppose

them

prevent

exercise,

oft- repeated
feet

their

and

strange

to

hard

as

remain

it seems,

without

succession

movement

are

same.

This

pain.

makes

stone

the

sing

to

however,

they

running

regular rubbing by

This

always

song,

until

accompanied

is

of

pans

rhythmical

stones

adhering.

foot

SURPRISE

UNPLEASANT

AN

feeUng

as

it

at

much

too

inconvenience.

When

returned

we

of the

remainder

which
five

again
o'clock
back

road

There
carried

The

our

had

rooms

us.

landlord, but

the

just set

easy

pace

when

the

Alas

During

our

everything

Abbas, furious

because

called

worst

down

the

of

absence

of the
curses

the

before.

which

troubling
continued
mounts.

stopped

caravan

disagreeable surprise
cats

extra

of Allah

(19)

one

we

had

topsy-turvy.

was

at

tortoise-

the

tired

our

small
a

took

without

Persian

unfortunate

dwelling.

our

awaited

at

the

and

the

donkeys succumbed,

our

morning

next

tropicalthan

difficult and

the

weather

the

crossing of

The

Ali,our

about
way

sun

before

our

Mollah-

much

very
on

of

one

but

donkeys

the

Shur-Ab.
more

suggestion of

the

at

spent

frightened by

was

mounted

we

to

village we

threatening;

was

plainwas

strewn

there

day

who

donkey-driver,

the

to

work
upon

pillagedour
The
it
the

faithful

entailed,
heads

of

AROUND

AFGHANISTAN
feline

those

when

right,and

The

of

9th
in

seated

spiteof

in

old

the

these

this

As

far

pine

and

we

fell

Night
In

the

because
twelve

to

made,

that

for

the

Persia

would

sun

fifteen

The

The

Kazim,

who

died

Meshed

Rashid

at

in

earth

Reza

Iman

of Islam.

chiefs

Still

was

At

killed
in

accordance

hill

the
age
in

818, and
with

of

his

of the

Close

mosque

by, a large
for

the
that

worship

quickly came

ground
shaft

which

They
at

the

the

799.

buried

in

Born
the

forms

at

is

is used

the

small

appearance.

spiritual

or

Medina

mausoleum

expressed during

(20)

put

his father, Mussah-el-

he succeeded

in

time

same

imans

twelve

open

"canat"

plain its pimpled

the
of

eighth

are

hole

the

therefore

intervals

at the

around

up

storm

placed in

be

cannot
up.

wish

brilUant

Mussulmans.

more

thirty

north
twisted

of old

to

; but

Bagdad
was

muddy

the

on

grove

them

thrown

was

the

carrying water

of ventilation

the

gulliedby

along

come

Shiite

the

that

caravansaries

who

quickly dry
below

"

canats

been

Reza.

repeated endlessly gives

hillock, which
2

feet

is, a sort

cleaning.

for

canals

"

numerous

on

with

quickly.

fairlywell

with

floundered

Iman

of the

Nishapur

to

planes. Through

pilgrims

spiritualleader

minarets

justaccomplished.

have

its feet is

of the

innumerable

full

animal.

we

surrounded

is

the white

turquoise-bluedome

the

saw

the

looked

so

to

secular

built in honour
square

are

seems

At

way.

admire

is all covered

villageis placed

trees

rainbow

it had

Gedemgha

of the

side

kilometres

subterranean

as

The

road.

which

part

monstrous

some

put

soon

the way

on

brougham,

mole-hills

in

ground

us

the town

enormous

could

we

found

800

plainaround

The

were

mosque.

May

our

things

fairy-hkelighton

neighbouring

However,

night came

shed

which

moon

of

devils.

in 770, he
of

his

Harun

life.

al

PLACE

which
the

us

full

of rain

moon

before
It

the
was

where

last

of

The

cUmbed

we

horses

the

and

took

it

under

marks

it,

height

the

and

with

their

blue

and

you

may

the

on

is
and

after

to

of their

have
*

1,690

Meshed

The
the

tomb

little

contains
of

sacred
the

from

they

days' march.

own

your
be

produced
in

come

sight

stela,raise their grateful

the

on

fohage,

They prostrate

protector, then,
up

mosques

the

in

remembrance

spot

very

they

where

three

consisting of

monuments

high.

metres

Mahometans,
of Russian

the

journey, put

Europeans,

at

Allah

prayed

yourself

this

From

sight.

amid
glitter

as

which

tall stela

the

Bagdad

themselves, piously kiss

hearts

in

giltdomes

hundred

Our

much

After

might.

profound impression must

that

sun

Sanghi-Best.

the

by

came

to

of the

whole

top of the pass^ which

the

wonderful

pilgrims from

of Meshed

Sherif-Abad,

as

burning

the

afar

picture

what

of

to

us

Meshed

view

shelter

to find

the

us

all their

pilgrims recognise from

emotion

was

slopes

they brought

far

as

ends,

pullingwith

were

effort

stage

road

followingmorning,

of

entering the religious

before

night

Seistan

caravansary

came.

Persia.

the

drops

lucky enough

were

downpour
our

capital

we

first

The

the

of

door

of

in front

while

us,

opal cloud.

an

the

at

us

and

Fakhr-Daud,

in

rose

caught

behind

horizon

the

lit up

PILGRIMAGE

OF

from

whom
the

sixty

Russian

subjects to
number
of Iman

70 to 80,000

of

800

are

Jews,
or

1,000.

pilgrims which

is estimated

which

Russians,
and

the

with

Americans,

There

every

at 30

(21)

There

inhabitants.

are

about

year

to 40,000.

come

are

Caucasian

the

bring
100

seventy

the

number

British

to bow

the

jects.
sub-

knee

AFGHANISTAN

AROUND

superposed

stones

top of the

the

on

Meshed

their

ourselves

minarets

rise

the

surrounded

by

five

high, built,

feet

middle

of

its wide

the

We

on

central

of the
of

the

of

of

retreat, and
Our

were

to

pay

first business

was

of

chief

manager
the

the

military

Captain Battye, who

Consulate

for

Next

morning

tottering.

flanked

by

winding alleys,
the

which

ing
endeavour-

were

I had

letters

from

and

last

Dr.

of

of

Mr.

de

Giers,

Russia, where

taking duty
early afoot

his

long standing.

likewise

was

walk

discovered

visit to

We

(22)

it is

half-an-hour's

friends

attach".

were

of

at

Major Sykes, who

we

to

seems

gate,

Naus

consulate

was

the

afar, with

for whom

we
as

twenty-

Mohtor, director-general

After

received

is

towards

From

We

Mr.

filth

and

to

big trees, of

Mr.

and

entered, somewhat

we

stream.

Teheran.

sewers

domes
Meshed

said,

low

with

from

oasis

circumvallation

Khorassan,

recommendation

through

is

succession

of

house

Customs

Schneider,

of

muddy

the

century.

planted

alleyis
find

to

it

somewhat

after

boulevard

immense

defence,although
a

hypnotised

Khorassan.

towers, and

and

random,

that

to

increased

pis"y twenty-two

wall

formidable

dismantled

at

met

this

passed through

two

in

if

as

go

of

of

sixteenth

moat,

constitute

wall

horses

innumerable

capital

leading down

the

them

let

be counted

can

road

pace,

sight

there

of

the

rapid

we

the

by

which

from

and

speed,

On

chf".
at

went

we

of these

thousands

on

at

called
the

we
on

British

leave.

to visit the

sacred

THE

GAZELLE

HUNTER

AFGHANISTAN

AROUND
them

trouble

speaking,it is a
the

around

long

as

in

marriage

for

the

union,

contract

the

from

far to

wives

than

and

up

"

That
The

table
roses,

under
staff
till the

as

be

can

the

next

caravan.

the
a

dark

soldier

carrying

an

reached
kind

evening, and

our

of

that

returned

the

at

the

over

intoxication

long journey
regret

ears

not

soft

was,

in

the

perhaps, the

when

felt the

finding on
welcome

(24)

consulate.

of

my
a

an

exquisite
We

town.

in the

high

were

torch.

enormous

moonlight, the nightingalessang

music

back

irises,acacias,

was

the

pilgrim

previous evening

return

alleysof

easy

more

takes

spouse

the

our

of

the

with

moreover

; and

temporary

at the Russian

dined

docile

legitimate

When

sway.

more

come

remain

not

of

with

who

their

do

of

term

made

temporary

who

once

been

it had

through

was

that

their

the

wishes

the

to

companions

prettilydecorated

was

preceded by

was

These

some

short

find at Meshed

St. Iman

marital

Captain Batty e's

walk

It

are

evening we

same

it is

Mussulmans

pious

stay.

there

his

liberty

and

their

week

takes
her

that

so

customs

specialform

Bargains

Properly

strange

very

according

religiouslyaccept

husbands,

Life and

they officiallymake

during

morals

town.

pilgrims:

limited

worship

whom

women

at

of

use

Heaven,

so

particularcreated

contracting party.

Allah's

there.

moreover,

are,

mosque

have

mullahs

within

town

remain

they

as

walls

gardens,
;

there

air, slighterthat
only

time

somewhat

threshold
woman's

during
choly
melan-

when

smile.

GOOD-BYE

the

understood
Allah

of
let

Abbas

towards
drive

us

would

start

we
^

Go

pilgrimsand

away

for

them.
our

away
say

the
...

the benevolent
But

let

dreams.

us

close

Borof

city is holy, and

Askhabad.

(25)

indulgence
our

eyes,

borof^
to-morrow

as

II

CHAPTER

The

pilgrim

stones

frontier
Caravan

Gulcha

"

Kizil-Art

left

had

we

pass

the

about

were

1891

Iranian

high

and

kilometres,
Turkestan

the

railway,
far

gradually rising as

with

delicate

from

horsemen

getting

were

time

was

be very
as

well

is curious
to

to

the

horses

into

kind

his

of

comfortable
as

to

swing-bar
pull

on

of

way

the

as

chains

(27)

in

us

where

as

horses

Europe,
draw

should

practical
horses

the

in

we

this

we

The

rain.

that

Indian

four

conveyance

putting

middle

two

exactly
strong

not

Battye,

charming

escort

Our

phaeton

if it did

"

to

in

and

roses,

came

immense

original
note

of

carriage.

our

reaching

Captain

good-bye

us

guard

900

kilometres

250

holy city.

bouquet

the

frontier.

bade

attention,

pinned

note

left the

We

14th.

May

for

before

of

distance

the

as

of

left

not

over,

in

Trans-

between

had

we

"

Russians

the

continuation

is the

The

"

presently

say

by

still to pass

had

we

I shall

made

which

plateau

Ala"

Askhabad

to

exchange

It

Khorassan.

and

of

"

the

of

Roof

meadows

Meshed

how,

"

commercicil

facihtate

to

caspia

follow

to

way

Audijan

to
"

the

Pamirs.

carriage road,

fairly good

"

Russo-Persian

the

"

railway

The

From

desert.

to

the

the

pass

of the

view

First

"

On

"

Taldik

the

"

On

"

Osh

at

earthquakes

its

Askhabad

"

organisation
"

World

We

Ga"dan

at

and

Kutchan

"

TRANS-ALA"

THE

TO

MESHED

FROM

are

but

attached
the

the

side
hind

AFGHANISTAN

AROUND

carriage,which

quarters of the
of

left behind

being

numerous

As

soon

holes

in the

as

had

we

have

started

Shan-Kaleh

at

tiny

Continuous
where

arrived

Fortunately

we

pilau,^
the

to

at

which

;
we

We

roaring stove.

caught

us

far

as

in

ourselves.

like

Chinaran

as

of mud.

stream

providing almost

there

table, chairs, and

us

in

time

short

travelling

shelter

Russians

already occupied by

half-pastfive

found

indicates

storm

stop for

caravansary

comfort

modern

every

the

accompanied

rain

we

traffic which

to

families

Persian

the

and

numerous

which

route.

had

we

frightfuland
several

this

met

going of

and

coming

along

danger

road.

commercial

important

in

speed

passed the gates we

carts,the incessant
the

of the

account

on

often

are

with

down

gulped

cellent
ex-

backs

our

and

ourselves

dried

an

to

went

sleep.
May

abominable,
and

myself

who

talked

the

of
a

him

filth.

He

scolded

by

veritable

At

from

the

way

who

were

crowd

watching
of rice

mixed

with

us

was

Enselme

It reminded

Abbas,

Manchuria.

in

for

subject of conversation

road

of the
he

seat, and

who

Kutchan

to

rolled

uninjured,indeed,

proper

scampering

days

corner

driver

sent

Dish

his

got up

gestures the

worst

our

leading
river.

became
little,

first time.

threw

road

The

1 5th.

keep
of

pass

pieces of

(28)

into

but

explained to
to

mutton.

of

severely
with

seat.

yellow

sittingon

heap

pool

was

him

your

little

rubbish

the

many

His

fall

marmots

edge

of

PILGRIM

More

hole.

their

be

to

were

STONES

till

seen

reached

we

Askhabad.

Se"d-Abad,

passed through

We

of wretched

town

the

landscape desolate, not

the

horizon.

ran

along

To

and

of

for

Mir-Abad,
smoked

were

immense
old

We

up

north

dried

fallen

from
of

"

They

which
At

are

going

first I

by

every

the

breeze

across

which
I

find

on

thought
he

good

truly

had

him

meant

wonderful

to

assumed

by

Mussulman
act

(29)

took
where

the

sky

ceous
argilla-

presence
to

to

telligen
in-

the

give

to

have

some

phenomenon.

pilgrimage to

he

we

enormous

seemed

appealed

begged
a

and

blowing

vast

stones. Sahib," repliedAbbas

are

credulity,but
like

and

respectingsuch

information
"

Abbas,

dawn

at

sphericalin shape, the

Puzzled,

heaven.

draw,

surprised to

was

of

roads.

the

up

weather

horses.

cool

Kutchan,

towards
I

the

inexphcable,and

was

clouds

struggleand

day

next

us

stone, almost

of which

big

comfortable,

more

cloudless.

soon

rolled

of

on

caravansary

to

the

lightedfor

awoke

plain, where
blocks

gave

the

at

refused

and

the
we

up,

seen

of bad

range

chimney

were

driver
blue

On

whole

stables, much

dark

from

the

"

getting dried

out.

braziers

Our
was

the

the

in

refuge

be

left

the

to

cut

was

to

was

market-

mountains.

the

means

no

road

tree

right and

the

Wind, rain, storm,

"

The

appearance.

large

of

seriously,

Meshed."

impose
grave
the

faith

upon

my

air, affected

religiousidea,
embodied

in

AROUND
fact

AFGHANISTAN

known

idea

an

of

of the

Persia,for

he

to

the

Persian

Mussulman

who

their

they
travellers

does

pushed along

those

who

travel

them

strength they have,

but
"

of the

"

walls

its

of

extraordinary

an

pilgrims and

it is rolled

piously

to

the

At

joy,

"

and

is not

helping

as

httle

to

the

of

foot

of them

has

within

tomb

of

people

to

then, amid

"

it.

meet

St. Iman

Faith

of
It

acclamations,

story, giving a colour

Scripture:

the

emotion,

whole

come

years*
the

at

one

give

by httle,

several

is heard

them

foot

indescribable

an

great pomp,

by pious

on

thus

soon

ders
shoul-

carry

go

after

mullahs

admirable

an

words

mountains

As

of zealous
with

this

who

enthusiasm.

is welcomed

Is not

stones

in

way

waggon

pilgrimage,there

shout

the

there

pilgrims of granite arrive

of Meshed.

accomplished
mosque

those

sometimes

surely
the

travelling

league ;

good

by

for

slowly,

for

holy joy

the

sometimes
what

of

pious pilgrimage. By hands, by

are
:

the

These

them,

true

along

companions

feel

not

stones

Uke

Meshed.

to

corner

These

intervals

mute

beside

way

"

give

to

of this

Kutchan

at

holy city, the

their

in

of

scattered

are

on

them

it here

follows

as

mountains

pilgrims going

proceed
a

proceeded

the

pilgrims they
way

relate

extraordinary fanaticism

left

day

one

everybody.

to

shall

Reza."
of truth
remove

Zafir-Abab

three

awaited

us.

As

they got

into

their

soon

"

as

saddles

goolams

"

from

the

the

carriage came

and

performing

(30)

Customs
in

at

our

sight
sides

OASIS

AN

equipage
horses,

the

in

sun.

the

brilliant

About

caravansaries, the
after
At

gates of the

the

us.

and

barred

our

fear

he

rescue

was

pressing.
brought
These
and

Then

to

made

We

surrounded

mud
had

of Customs, whose
were

On

of

an

undergone
In

important
the

terrible

the

space

by

us

Mr.

old

which

(31)

was

quickly
natives.

trampling

hens.

Spinella,Director
we

metres
kilo-

twelve

ruins, heart-rending

were

forty

time

of

cock

Kutchan,

upheaval

driver.

In his company

is French.

on

the side of the road,

impassive

town

his

who

score

his

from

of

"

busthng

all sides

circle

help

goolams
a

cock

foreign

our

in

old

driving towards

now

away.
traces

wife

"

for

ing
betoken-

business, but

half

hearty welcome

from

to

it

in

jealousold

away

back

the

by

ship

stuck

cluck

gave

sit down

came

passage

of

gesticulating

was

like

them

to

deck

gray

storied

few

got

man

yards

leaving the

started

we

stout

assistance

our

soon

in the

appealed

the

had

compHcated

of

earthquakes.

ours

us, and

he

side

clayey ground stopped

He

made

Kutchan

the

of

women.
saw

and

ground.

hundred

some

moustachios,

.The

ten

when

led his hens

the

city

way.

of

mosques,
Uke

land

carriage preceding

eightor

among

razed

town

It is the

storm.

No

sparkled

which

oasis

further

the

on

of trees.

Une

long

"

of

the

midday

modest

our

lively-spirited

their

with

escort

silver-platedtrappings

suddenly appeared
plain

for

caracole,they formed

of fantastic

sort

of

for

centuries

successive

years,

three

had

quakes.
earthsimilar

AROUND

AFGHANISTAN
had

disasters
The

first in

thousand

there

in

rebuilt

inhabitants
courage.

them

confidence, and

city
the

on

the

of

17th

monstrous

half.

Those

hope,

and

fated

was

driving

and

founded

the

the

few

and

when

the

the

later

his
a

faithful

in

an

if

by

natives
of

by

them

ruined
that

Kutchan
that

Allah

survivors

went

further

kilometres

ten

habitable

last

shock

it, the

from

town

new

the

destruction, and

inevitable

as

reduced

convinced

Henceforth

and

not, however, yet lose

fourth

dark,

population

been

into

together

became

unfortunate

had

left did

were

Suddenly

gay.

the

gave

spared.

were

engulphed

disaster

inhabitants

the

granted

have

armed

building

mud

of

which

ruins

solitary people

favour

consists
and

to

visited

They
by

wave,

and

to

east.

We
A

was

after

Allah,

upheaved,

town

years

was

earth

The

quietude

1893, the sky

the

1871

town.

upon
of

two

In

ground.

years

the

crowded

completely.

two

opened

part of the

chaos

who

Two

corner.

and

foundations.

they thought they

burst,

thousand

twenty

of

November,

counted

were

low

flourishing,active,

thunderbolt

indescribable

its

walls, called

Twenty-

became

to

fissured

the

the

took

The

walls

fallingin

fresh

the

laid

1852

graves

was

Kutchan

shaken

live

in

in

them

must

of

long poplar

projectingbeyond

exemption

which

ridge.

(32)

of

from

taxation.

against earthquakes

branches

the

treasures.

it, taking advantage

themselves

huts,

contain

the

timber-work

the

crossed

at

Around

the ruins

top
"

MUSIC

UNEXPECTED

vineyards which

flourish

and

region of

of life in that

only evidence

the

grow
of

wealth

the

are

death"

the

country.
On

return

our

we

brilliancyof

all the
In

the

hosts, I

evening,

had

of

hearing

it

was

in

white

foot

grand-uncle
"

the

was

road

ascended

to

the

leaving on

the

righta

side
of

caravansary

the

villagewhich

his

family

in the

followed

one

the
in

hotel
undress

he

was

him.

The

sittingall

3"

the

arrived

we

to

the

at

Ali, the

inhabitants

alone

It

we
on

saw

the

and

cubes

stone

new

of

owner

settle there with

But

creating a colony.

deserted, and

this

granite cliffs

Colonel

of

of this

largevalleyof

the

two

rock,

(33)
(3134

After

founded, came

hope

the

descended

then

and

of which

hamlet

Ah-Abad.

at

gentle gradients.

between

of the

tiger

jungle.

plateau

passed

we

preferred by

corner

smiling valley.

Imam-Guh

wide

of

paws

Budjnoord,

had

next

splendid

magnificent skin

of the

king
took

we

rapidly into

cling to

hospitable

of the

diminutive
The

the

near

The

mountains.

of the

uncle

kihed

docile

the

admiring

was

me,

solo of Kubehk

vioUn

granted

While

purring softlybetween

cat

its

"

us

Puccini, I

of

romance

for

out

our

Unfortunately,

gramophone.

the

apparatus breathed
or

before

Caruso.

tenor

of

house

comfortable

the

in

famous

the

only

brightsettingsun.

good fortune,never

the

caught

of which

pigeons, the changing plumes

wild

of

clouds

accompanied by

were

wanting,

were

the

fellow

brave

edge

no

of

moat

AROUND

AFGHANISTAN
for the

watching
with

unUkely

inquisitiveand

an

When

the

road,

and

caravans,

camels'

the

from

caught

animals, sounded

the

defile into

suddenly

in

their

fire of green

tattered

bone,
of the

very

chime.
narrow

takes

Atrek

drive

ruins, and

in

on

meadow

naked

were

sewing

were

its

vermin

away

through

their

the

smoke

wood.

around

their heads

thuyas, and

to

shirts

dressed

road

hung

estan
separates Turk-

the

Some

trying

were

women

the

merry

bridges

sun.

where

while

pilgrims quite

Durb-Adam,

ovens,

which
mutton

which

which

some

crossed

We

tin boxes

rhythmical step

Persian

in the

clothes,others

by drawing
of

in

; but

moment

every

clearinga strange picture :

drying themselves
torn

the

group

old

flowers

with

dotted

at

in which

to

mountain

noted

We

the

happy

passing of

the

by

the

frogs

its colonel

penetrated through

Persia, and

from

of

like the far-off noise of

We

\Sth.

May

sides

us

I went

with

peopled

ear

my

necks, and

strikingagainstthe

rise.

solitarygarden, and

repeated tinkling of

the

was

what

at

compassionate

frequently disturbed

sleep was

my

of

swarms

great satisfaction

the

couples, to

looked

recoveringfrom

were

this Uttle oasis

sleep imagining

to

He

eye.

we

of the

echoes

the

awoke

dazed

while

night came,

fatigues of

traveller.

were

Darband,

in

red

and

wearing sequins

cooking bread, busy

chatteringlike European

ascended,

running

Dash-Areizeh,

bordered
close

to

(34)

in
beds

round

magpies.

places by
of red

the
Then

stunted

tulips;

some

ANDIJAN
larks

chased

sky

the

falcons

by

Persian

of

Badshgwiran.

of

The

from

us

Gaiidan,

had

Malakans
inn

to
^

who

moved

From

by

Gaiidan
and

far

as

After

as

the

The

railway
the

the

line

with

Samarkand,

brilliant

milk

kind
and

frontier

there,

azure,
of

tribe

its

on

account
are

of

watershed,

mood.

Some

of

room

excellent, descended
mountain

of Askhabad.
visits and

of

Customs

for

May

Andijan,

ducts
sandy deserts, con-

wonderful

with

towards

oases,

magic.

Merely

recall

to

its ancient

their

by

blue

frontier.
the

in

and

mosques

Russian

Banished
of

21st

Merv

its

the

all without

empty

an

us.

holy city, all

with
on

good

walls

and gaily-coloured
bazaars
stirring

the

vegetables.

and

the

night.

crosses

oriental

dazzling visions

of Bokhara

which
towards

of

which

amiable

the

now

the

on

village

Transcaspian railway.

traveller

witchery

the

of

started

long

rapidly covered,

large military town

of the

terminus

versts

an

days' halt,filled with

we
formalities,

four

steep windings along the

the

two

in

for

road,

small

crossed

for the

room

the

the

were

occupying
make

which

Customs-station, where

baggage

shelter

to

numerous

side

the Russian

were

out

or

fear,

in front

out

came

in

we

in

length,after

we

frontier

our

find

blacker,

pass,

three

the

officers examined

We

of

slightcry

At

ourselves,after

found

in front

and

Custom-house

the

we

blacker

crossingof

the

of

and

with

whirling around.

and

separated

up

rose

becoming

were

climb

rats

The

the

have

to

formed

exception waggon-drivers.

(35)

tomb

Malakans

Government

heresy, they

sky

the
small

Uve

of
of
on

Turkestan

colonies

AROUND

AFGHANISTAN

Tamerlane

Turkestan

shining

copper,

of

have

poets

its

they

have

and

the

touch

bloom

the

pinned

not, therefore,allow

sketched.

often

Osh,

reach

civilised countries
to

the

cross

the

for

except
to

organising
at

The

that

our

I shall

be

in

we

which

caravan

anxious

were

in order

the

only

June

by landscapes

no

one

which

real

be able

of

interest

where
a

be

should

leave

is useful

Marghilan
spend

to

time

warmest

had

to

to

thus

July,and

way

at

of

and

criptions
des-

by

attracted

Pamir,

made

12th

the

on

of the deserts.

repeated

the

on

only succeeded,

unique

before the 1st of

halts

is

to

of the

ourselves.

mention

alighted

solitude

high plateaux

Our

year.

dream

flashing and

Moreover,
foot

the

at

have

those

times

phrases

might be, in tarnishingby

myself

hundred

and

high-sounding epithets;

they

of

to the

words

indeed

and

palette to paint the

their brush

delicate

butterflies

so

but

improbable,

its

with

silks, overlooked

of all lands

of the most

their richest

taken

Russian

golden town,

clothe

to

of

capital

many-coloured

attempted

the adornment

their

the

palace, writers

with

however

the

Tashkend,
Kokand,

Ameer's

the

by

of

week

we

in

completed

Osh.
It

there

was

agent
Polish

of

the

that
Paris

origin who,
me

accompany

in

of

firm
at

the

had

M.

Zabieha,

Frenchman

kindly

offered

an

of
to

expedition. Vigorous, active,

my

Russian

Revillon,

Bokhara,

he pleased me
intelligent,
of

joined by

were

we

at

once.

language, and
(36)

His

ledge
perfect knowhis

qualities of

and

endurance

INTERPRETER

IDEAL

AN

good humour,

him

made

soon

precious

travellingcompanion.
With

his

stock

our

of preserves,

purchased

uselesslycruel

natured

old

of

danger
of

the

to

thank

ending

substitute

in the

days

put

not

police'sassistant

of

interpreter,who
of Sarte

You

everything good-humouredly.
tall and

broad

smile

point.

fellow

strong

through

came

Central

the real soul

of

It remained

our

the

the

Russo-Chinese

One

journey

can

versts, and

charge

of the

only
there

to

black

far

the

transport

beard

with

an

native

imagine

trimmed

to

all the

moreover

shghtly,he

Russian

procure

the

Kashmir,

as

Bank,

go

is

us

as

Andij an,

and

the

was

caravan.

for

for

Asia

to

everything and
can

Very talkative, speaking

languagesof

reached

train

the

in

complexion, whose

bronzed

with

or

therefore

valet, a

do

could

Iskandar, who

named

in

Pamirs

Thanks

and

cook

both

was

been

provided

were

we

Russian

grand-children.

his

find.

to

easy

good-

was

care

to

that

have

comfortably

back

him

take
was

him

been

of the

rocks

first

Our

and

him

should

chief

his

have

neither

would

he

preter
inter-

servant

take

knew

he

been

had

It would

dangerous to

especiallyas

Karakorum.

which
A

and

completing

of which

finding a

further,as

man

Kirghiz,and

nor

and

replace Abbas.

could

about

set

great part

Tashkend,

at

who

indeed

immediately

help

and

on

the

necessary

money
which

we

did

20th

of

June

we

railway terminus.^

by driving. The distance

The
relay half way at Khodjabad.

to

at

Osh

of travellers.

(37)

is

forty-six

post takes

AROUND

AFGHANISTAN

The

stage-waggon,
horses

the

the

The

morrow

Less

would

than

without

market
its

day,

of whom

perch
filled

with
and

all sides

were

It

was

Syr

has

justlynamed

so

We

arrived

snugly in
"

and

Colonel

as

going

to

soon

as

the

across

of which

charming

we

for

us

of

in

"

at

at the

"

Riabkoff, commander
(38)

it

animated
the

groups,

saddle

long

hanging bags

were

rich

On

oasis.

pasturage.

upper

valley

the Earth

and

Man

the

came

delicious

little

foot of the

arrived

sun,

Lombardy."

Asiatic

Osh

the

wearing

of the

corners

of

desert

by

suddenly

Reclus

the

the greenery

What

Fortunately,

fields,
poplars,and

early

the

in small

town

Then

that

Daria

of the

hidden

became

desert

bright surprise

of the

one

shelter.

the

extremities

cotton

the

store

plain,burnt

vast

cocoons.

verdant

some
me

Andijan begins a

from

carried

some

the

on

in

Kirghiz horsemen,
were

us.

and

numberless

with

World."

the

of

without

and

pointed hat, who

and

tell

weather

was

soHtudes

these

league

grass

which

Roof

kilometres, a

ten

with

of

from

us

before

rising up

behind
"

brought

joy mingled

last

at

four

by

marvellous

was

with

was

wall

drawn

lightthe snow-capped peaks

rosy

saw

unknown

which

life in

our

large phaeton
one

mysterious

had

was

resumed

we

It

it

rocky

somewhat

about

the

with

that

fantastic

of

; and

Ala"

emotion

kind
to

tinted

the

dawn

Askhabad.

to

sun

of

similar

Meshed

at

day

next

we

of

went

the

placed

town

Ala"
to

10th

mountains
call

upon

battalion

PLANS

FRESH
of

Rifles who

of

the

with
at

took

charming good
disposal

departure, and
After

who

the

plan

Baital,
Be"k
On

of

passes
then

arrival

and
the

point

the upper

there

the

reach

valleyof
reach

Ak-Su,

in

httle

the

cross

Sarikol.

to

the Ili-Su pass,

cross

the

Karakorum

to

From

Tibet

at

by following

maps,

the Raskem-Daria.

Leh

to

Ak-

of

the

on

of

sources

Yarkand

Ak-Tagh

through

Kizil-Art, and

river
the

from

garrison
I settled

Pamirs,

Pamirski-Post

I intended

road

marked

should

we

thus

the

rejoin

the

Taldik, the

ascend

to

and

pass,
my

the

for

follow.

the

reach

ofiicers in

the

crossed

I should

to

was

entirely

preparations

our

with

already

route

Both,

indispensableinformation.

us

interviews

had

definitelythe
My

give

several

Osh

facilitate

to

governor

themselves

placed

grace,

the

to

Alexeieff.

district,Lieutenant-Colonel

our

at

his tro"ka

in

us

Ak-Tagh

the

by

caravan

routes.

forbidden,in fact,to penetrate

was

the

passes

which

descend

into

the Government

of Calcutta

the

not

In

difficult and
the

action

Pamirs,
; General

from

the

on

whom

I
and

blanche
had
the

in

at

direct

contrary, I

Tashkend
had

been

unpack
to

the

complete
(39)

to open

from

way

had

and

to

me

Karakorum.

libertyof

full

of Turkestan,

General

I had

by

Hunza,

or

decided

received

good enough

crossingRussian

still to
arms,

had

Subotitch,Governor-

friendlywelcome,
carte

very

Chitral

India

into

to

the most

give

me

territory.
camping
the

accoutrements

victualUng, to

find

AFGHANISTAN

AROUND

sure

strong horses,in short, to organise the

and

men

which

caravan

These

mind

in my
and

minute

dehcate

concerned

forget.

Thanks

help

of each

26th

of

the

to

the

one,

regions of

lodge

the

and

of which

had

from

other, hustled
the

the

In

horses

loading was

the

quiet

with

whom

there

to

and

of
in

done

the

the

and

had

hands

that

our

shouted

the

scattered

of

eye

of

calmness

and

was

for the

Gultcha, through
The

road,

not

very

the

last

order
"

the

picturesque,ascends
(40)

heard.
under

over

who

was

obtained,

were

the

time, and
of

general

caravanbash

the

Alexeieff

bazaars

and

properly organised.

ready

was

Colonel

near.
us

all

bales,

oneself

contract, and

each

to

this

times

ten

one
our

pranced

make

departure was

shouting ceased,

with

our

excitement

departure

of

civihsed

who

midst

redone

made

Gradually however,
the

the

arrange

was

caravan

to

authoritative

we

see

on

barrack,
to

us

there

among

impossible

was

The

of the
for

reserved

other

arrived

It

precious

to the

months

the caravaneers,
each

We

uproar.

never

can

leave

took

we

court-yard

been

twenty

snorted.

long

early morning

noise among

while

day

were

we

world.

'2nth.

baggage,

by

me

able to start

was

for

as

the

and

good-will

next

hosts,saying good-bye

far

so

tant
impor-

for

obhgingness

caravan

the

and

showed

and

cordiaHty

June,

June

operations,these

authorities,who

Russian

India.

to

me

greatly facihtated

preparations,were
the

take

to

was

of

moment
to

came

shake

started

we

native
a

wide

for

village.
stony

Tomb

KOKAND

TOMB

at

AND

Kokand

PALACE

OF

THE

AMEER

HOSPITALITY

VILLAGE

valley with

village
drawn

yoort ^ which
with

their

on

beside

chosen

admirably

sickly groves.

of

entrance

Kirghiz

of

the
were

magnificent

selves
prostrated them-

for us, and

apart

hands

their

the

front

in

array

set

was

few

Long-bearded

battle

in

only

reached

we

Kadurkul.

of

up

was

there

past three

half

At

and

here

The

hearts.
small

position
bordered

pond

willows.

by

Our

boxes
old

An

row.

Kirghiz,according

presented

country

with

us

accept before

he

and

uttering

without

killed in
the

decided

leather

bottle

In

it returned

to

native

full of

koumiss*

dinner

there

seconds

few

animal

the

cry

neatly

was

pieces in

in

us

to

were

we

of the

custom

which

kill it.

in

placed

the

to

Another

large pillau pot.

with

and

sheep

to

and

honour,

our

down

brought

were

galloping

came

which

with

we

regaled ourselves.
In

the

yoort after

invasion

of

doubt

frogs, no

through curiosity,which
sleeping.

us

and

they
their

by

Our

Zabieha

back

went

from

driven

boldly

came

them

drove
in short

suddenly

was

jumps

the
to

pond

look

at

vigorously,

away
not

an

flattered

much

reception.

first night of nomadic

well.

It

skull

which
were

Fermented

the

was

awoke

rather

Kirghiz

hut

reflection

mare's

of

The

me.

slow
in

Hfe

we

trellis work

bid
covered

milk.

(41)

passed

off

daylight on

remarkably
Iskandar's

ture
preparations for depar-

good-bye
with

to

broad

the

Kirghiz

stripsof

felt.

AROUND

AFGHANISTAN

and

started.

two

precipitouscliffs in
The

nestling.

were

obstacles.
winds

The

of

continuing
^

Bulak
in the

before

the

compact

passed

close

protection

women

and

with

"

camels

followed

the

with

sky

and

fine weather

all

isolated

Kirghiz

marched

beings requiring
and

distance

Some

foals,
behind

driving

were

dogs

the

before

restless

last

the

pink opal tint, but

and

violent

Soot-

at

passing

large tawny

had

not

sleep by

and

"

horses.

sunset

did

the

to

encamp.

children, mares

who

sides

stood

its head

At

men

of

help

oxen

at

to

no

in and

trees

arrived

saw

young.

of

group

of

first

their

the

multitude
The

and

three

we

consisting of

company

shut

rounded

yoorts which

Ala".

the

knows

with

and

preparations we
into

Arab

fairlywell

river

four

or

street

We

the

three

family going

our

sparrows

plain. Hunger obliged us

During

them

noisy couples of

houses

ascend

to

between

mountains

two

"

of

river

is itself

pasturage.

Langar

bed

Parisian

high

with

refuge

which

valley

between

covered

the

followed

We

we

awakened

were

recalled

which

storm

in
those

of Khorassan.
Next

day

the pass

of

metres.

spoke

to

we

made

Chigirtikwhere

We

joined

the

old

descent

Height

1,900

the

to

the

towards

The

early start.
reached

we

Kirghiz

chief,told

villageof Aravang
The

an

west

(42)

it

crossed

height of 2,400
Iskandar,
came

from

who

the

of Osh.

Gultcha

metres.

tribe ;

that

me

road

was

made

through

wild

and

gorges,

We

had

water

floundered
caravan

We

eers.

poplar

last

Russian

Zabieha

garrison at
Enselme
the

on

dine

the

of the

leave

otherwise

at

was

might

and

indeed

was

obeyed

in

peltingrain.

The

road

sides.

old
in

chief
his

waited

hand.

daughter,

when

result

animals

the

who

for
He

the

us

flowers

I asked

the

the

with

age

with

me

she
of

me

had
young

(43)

spoke

roughly.
and

we

torrent

with

now

Kirghiz family

to
on

Miss

in

where.
everywhose

Bala,

A"

horseback.

his

This

great curiosity,for
ever

set

camel,

eyes
her

koumiss

of

bottle

left

grassy

growing

were

skin

well

very

first European

of the

rocky,

introduced

at

loaded,

were

with

shoulders

few

right bank

now

rode

girl looked

young
was

the

wards
after-

knows

been

have

authority,

my

who

overtook

soon

exercise

to

refused

caravaneers

and

DelightfulAlpine
We

us

deafening hubbub

their mercy,

; the

vaUey,

The

had

shook

follows

narrow

very

offer

to

was

the

rain.

tents.

what

loudly

and

Fog

the

of concert

way

invited

who

fort

He

evening.

which

drill.

trumpet

June 30th.
to

of the

the

Pamirs.

pigeons,after

few

some

post,
the

to

entrance

commander
same

shortly after by

the

Cossack

the

from

shot

under

encamped

we

far

not

they

by the

behind

from

easy.

horses

for the

as

not

was

dangerous place,however,

left this

trees

and

called
to

waist

accident, and

any

tall

us

the

to

up

ford

the

along stoicaUy,urged

without

we

crossingof

the

EQUESTRIAN

FAIR

on.

But

favourite,

AFGHANISTAN

AROUND
I

which

pointed

I wanted
into

to

from

me.

heart
We

The

at

dale

overhung

about

children

The

front

of the

their

pointed

while

waiting for

for
is it

Russian
his

to

the

some

to

our

solitudes

companion

to

us

During
that

up

!"

speak

touching

was

better
it

wandered,

where

wearing

men

the

his

the

fires

the

beyond
(44)

march

the

said
his
not

gun

unlikely.
Iskandar
sleeve
to

seems,
the

and

traditional

other, however

or

it

in

ready early.

exchange

it will

to-day that

princess's soul.
related

tourney, and

were

furbished
to

game

finger. Moreover,

those

He

want

saddle

bordered

around

caravaneers

singing.

rose

disposed

mutton

Nor

day

or

of prayer.

hour

the

delicate

the

hoods

motionless

talked

and

poppies

as

yoorts already prepared, the

caps

moved

went

themselves

for

narrow

the

on

by long
as

in scarlet

brilliant

as

covered

caparisoned

were

next

seemed

spots

picture

cattle,servants,

there

and

Carefully fettered by

red,

Zabieha

here

meadows,

horses, completely

The

dressed

women

of the

of

six

or

torrent.

cHf"s

of

flock

motley

green

midst

the

blood-coloured

high

busily,forming

near

In

age.

by

with

of five

us.

on

her

away

of the

came

peonies.

turn

to

edge

the

bursting

me

the

built

restlesslythe

and

on

thought

group

another

to

back

enough

was

Kirghiz family encamped

belonged

"

her

Bala

Kizil-Kurgan, a

cubes

stone

A"
finger,

my

turned

gesture

stopped

wretched

it and

buy

tears.

with

out

in
with

disturb
a

dear

interpreter

magnificent

gorges

TAX-PAYERS
which

overlooks

which
of
a

traversed

we

the

fort where

and

young

of the
the

there

for

Chinese

handsome
Caravaneers

king.

diamond

in

star

the

woman,

in

clear

hair

her

plateau

have

seen

top of the

the

on

court

daughter

nights

shine

ruins

all her

with

time

long

Tigerak, on

perpendicularly,the

river

hved

at

were

fortress.
Iskandar

While
this
a

legend, Zabieha

superb sugoor^
The

road

fords
storm

dried

but

as

of animated

they

httle

the

there

In

the

times

motley

the

pay

Sufiwhich

stove

was

to

tax,^

windows,

our

have

to

the

of

refuge

shouting together under

pleased, apparently,

and

troublesome.

court-yard
came

missed

escaped.

roaring

who

Kirghiz

all

were

and

reached

we

it

as

several

deep

found

we

him

river

were

garments.

our

crowd
and

on

hissed

the

passed

came

Kurgan,

which

story of

the

fired his rifle and

suddenly

crossed

be

to

with

delightingus

was

their

give

to

money.

It is at
which

Sufi- Kurgan
the

cross

through

people

of

blocked

2,040

'

by

the

beginning

Pamirs

Irkeshtam

Pamirski-Post

to

large

marmot

metres

modest

sum

and
the

discard
snow,

of the

two

one

coming

Taldik

defile.

caravans

the

colour

are

go

of

an

from

Irish

five

roubles

per

(45)

yoort.

from

from

other

and

more

road,
Sufi-

setter.

meet

Kashgar

According

Terek-Davan

and

roads

the

Terek-Davan,

high.
of

main

the

the

country,

by

up

that

to

the

more

often

Kurgan

to

AFGHANISTAN

AROUND
Irkeshtam

Taldik

the

by

and

the

valley of the

upper

Kizil-Su.
It rained

2nd.

July
in front

of the

likeness

with

the

help of

from

us

with

gay
A

crests

of the

dotted

grass

station

superintendent

the

notes.

triangleloomed

telegraph

from

block

my

snowy

Osh

of

yoorts ready

honours

with

his

us.

faithful

small

our

felt house

fire of

bright

and

walked

we

its thick
The

tufts

the

During

covered

The

without

showed
the

was
were

valley
have

owing

and

snow

remarkably

tried
to

the

we

to

extend

and

opposition

(46)

of

Une
the

the

as

the

every

side

rocky
turf

with

zero.

the

picture ;

clear.
in

entered.

the

did

altitude, and

changed

cold

to

found

others

fell to

had

line

forget-me-nots.

disportingthemselves
which

the

kindle

to

of

metres

the

off the canopy

On

white

the

of

side,and

green,

thermometer

night the

success

his

Iskandar

some

2,750

rocks.

was

man

he took

enable

blue, pink

the

Russians

old

was

thanks

carpet of really French

set

morning

noble

cold

out,

sun

sugoors

of

barometer

when

the

on

it

residence

sweet-smelling epicea.

deep valleys opened

red

Alexeieff, we

yak by

to

dale

inspecting

Colonel

evening breeze already blew

of

the

There, again,

of

for

concealed

fog ;

the

whose

posterity

to

mists

the

with

Irkeshtam.^

to

down

epiceasand

of

out

passed

Kirghiz

Ala",but

with

entrusted

old

Thick

Bussaga,

precious influence

two

hand

to

We

journey.

of the

authorised

fresh

white

whole

encampment

am

the

the

ous
Numerthe

snow-

Enselme

to

Kashgar

Chinese.

and

but

so

far

THE

THROUGH
for

Zabieha

rushed

kill

of

these

very

foot

one

the

at

its yoorts and

the

upwards
of

of the

chief

schistose

we

ground,

to

Further

encamped

friendship,then

over

managed

marmots.

Taldik
The

each

tribe with

smihng

brought

us

resumed

our

dotted

on

march

with

patches

snow.

had

We

of

reached

now

series.

long

The

the

gusts which

forced

put

on

to

us

After

hardly

down

tumbling
Art

defile.

meadows

Then

other

remained,

and

roads

even

at

of breath.

where

here

than

When

1893

notice

by
Port

chain

us,

made
the

caravan

went

the

Khatin-

in the

descent

through

myosotis

is the

the

to

bifurcation

of

Pamirs

not

singledwelhng,

and

severely

more

slightesteffort put
say,

the

The

living anywhere.
itself much

is indeed

us

out

heavier

summits.

the clouds

of the

of which

to the

one

air, the Kirghiz

certain

placed

Colonel

the

Around

Taldik, and

awoke

we

the

us

on

the

and

there

yoort, nothing

The

road^

the

easy

edelweiss

atmospheric depression
felt than

an

lead

Kashgar.

to

was

with

which

quickly

pass

rapid slope leading to

Sari-Tash

called

the two

took

it

covered

point

not

the

only 3,520

was

the

swept

again

we

traces

any

altitude

sheep-skins.

our

halt

short

first undoubtedly

the
defile,

the

metres, but

at

and

guns,

large tawny

flocks.

of

kalyan

their

SNOW

had

Trans-Ala"

scattered,and
all white

defile itself tells that

Gromstchevsky,

who

formerly

Arthur.

(47)

gave

the
me

before

appeared
road
a

was
warm

made

welcome

in

in

AFGHANISTAN

AROUND

its

imposing majesty

In the

Maltabar

to the

fields

Kirghiz

of

the

flocks

their

the

that

of

advantage

the
a

settle

and

all

season.

glass;

my

flock.

for me,

fine

with

plain

the

with

Iskandar

reminded
in

particularly clever

are

slightestundulation

the

where

of the

yoort or

phenomenon

Kirghiz

and

months

search

the immense

saw

Kizil-Su

come

two

I discover

this

explained

the

did

of

vaUey

Ferganah

could

nowhere

the

during

vain

in

Yet

of

(7,870 metres)

foreground we

pasture

the Kaufmann

from

me

taking
their

hide

to

encampments.
The
that

at

moment

flowed

on

led

bed
form

to

simple

of fine

foot

very

when

of the

the

spurs

day

which

of its

width

it must

melts

snow

was

water

the

but

That

obstacle.

formidable

of clear

stream

gravel ;

that

think

shortly afterwards

crossed

we

bed

us

the

at

which

river

encamped

we

of the

Trans-Ala"

house

where

at

the

refuge of Bor-Teppeh.
In

of the

one

discovered

Iskandar
of the
the

of the

rooms

ovis

and
polii'^

neighbourhood
Zabieha

spiritof

collection

of the

the

doubt

The

Asia

It all

with

shuddered

joy.

the
We

atmospheric depression which

from

came

hunting
spent
It

moufflons.

fantastic

horns

an
was

produced

nightmares.

these

ibex.

magnificent

Kara-Kul, and

of Lake

exciting night hunting

no

of

stopped

we

A
at

next
kind

of

altitudes

day
moufiflon
above

midday

about
which

5,000

only
metres.

(48)

Hves

on

we

the

reached
plateaux

of

the
Central

OUR

CARAVAN

NEAR

A"-BALA

THE

REFUGE

BOR-TEPPEH

AND

HIS

FAITHFUL

IN

CAMEL

THE

TRANS-ALA"

DESOLATION
Kizil-Art

pass,

marked

and

ibex

tails

yak
4,180

crossed

Ala"

and

without

of the

appeared

which

the

bare,

whistles

go
the

wind,

long
the

dispelledby
further

heap

of

icy

4"

shelter of
the

meets

our

sohtude.

the

earth

wind

which
its way,

on

sand

wind

which

and

grasp

the

which

must

we

hves.

air crushes

strikes

if to

as

against
"

say

cross,

Thou

wrestle

dust, the cold,the scarcity

silent moment
of

heavy

our

gaze.

The

coarse

our

manes

take

cannot

we

where

strong

covering generally the

Kirghiz.

of

and

arid and

(49)
U134)

the

everything

Still

side of that

stones

Pamirs.

continuous

repulse you,

tempest, brave
A

transition

Nothing exists, nothing

further."

no

without

the

dismal

void.

the
to

seems

of water.

the

and

of desolation

cave

face

the

blinding columns

breast, where

the

into

of the

fatiguingcrossing

spectacle which

horizon.

the

It is the

by

sky

in

raises

the

standing in

by

cold

We

of the

peaceable life

almost

lugubriously,sweeps

darkens

the

after

entry

the

from

Hes

us

parallelchains

panting painfully,and

shaken

eyes

Before

with

showed

finished.

now

the

suddenly

are

are

dazzled

shalt

barometer

was

by

eyes

sinister

the

horses, which

your

with

Bright flowery valleys,vast

stop speaking,and

We

At

Ala".

our

and

passes,

stage

animated

Kirghiz,rested

and

adorned

mazars

The

mishaps

Trans-

the

expanses

grassy

the

horns.

first

caravan's

had

is

two

metres.

Our

of

by

anguish,soon

confident

hands

solitary
plain is
body

ol

saint

the

revered

AFGHANISTAN

AROUND

great
their
the
to

eternal
to

map

reach;

hell

of Kara-Kul

Lake

we

march

With

snows.

as

to

one

life

would
across

(50

by glacierswith

finger I point

the

companions

my

and

overlooked

the

point

cross

this

the

desert

which

out
we

threshold
of death.

on
are

of

AFGHANISTAN

AROUND

the

they prevent

short

the

animal

scanty

grass

its

these

solitudes,so that, weary

The

4"C,

"

find

It

abated.

of

of the

Trans-Ala"

this

sheet

of

ascended

black

almost

the

view

did

We

the

when

ground

dies

after

Black

"

The

between
versts

the

animal

the

browses,

sides

of

reach

by

prolonged struggle against

the

crossing

Pamirs.
had

we

refuge,
^

part

would

prove

an

thousands

the

at the

away

immense

light,of

glaciersof

which

dome

colossal

the

yet however,

worn

chain

long

The

after

aU

on

front

of Oo"-Bulak.

pass

oasis

an

them

in fact, much

are,

In

simple track, hardly

the

to

had

storm

sparkhng

is marvellous.

are

approach

the

to

shrub, without

the

long pebbly slope to

a
horns

The

us

night

rejoiced

us, the

by

is hke

plateaux

the

Pamirs.

behind

blue, bordered

not

descend

ends

greater confidence

Karakul, ^

Lake

of

points of white, which

of

it
efforts,

sandy stairway with

brought

point

arid

followed

We

water

these

in

grows

were

in the

overlooked

which

From

stage

anything

visible,which
steps,and

comes

reaching

which

that

stones, without

Ku-Rundi.

of the

from

during

we

and

pure

first

of

without

fall

not

therefore, with

our

plant,

of

was

was,

desert

day

of useless

awakening

on

sky

began

we

us

and

the

that

that

did

thermometer

below

its horns

age,

hunger. ^

of

by dying

great

poor

with

hps

at

proportions that

such

it seems,

assume,

when

arrives

of the Pamirs

moufflon

which

to

built

touches

that

he

only

nature.

Lake.

refuges
Osh
from

and
one

the

on

the
to

Pamirs

were

Pamirski-Post,

another.

(52)

built
at

an

in

1898.

average

There
distance

are

of

eight

forty

the model

on

of that

three

kilometres

3,850

metres.

black
the

at

us

from

In

test.

the

putting

lake

by

the

in

solid

which

the

dust.

Enselme

road,

sand

dune

in

what

whirled

which

others

on

throw
of

the

bottom

explorers who
hke

the

containing no
The

hues

banks,

distance

had

marshy

thin

followed

for

and

me,

of geese

bevies

around

in

order

to

preceded

of the

natives, that

intention

me,

Kara-Kul

is

which
to

reports
tained,
main-

who
a

and

water,

was

the

and

our

summits,

snowy

verify

of

in the

moment

middle

My

west.

soil

coating

large yellowish island

the

me

feet, and

my

only

with

in the

some

somewhat

towards

saw

you

ahghted,

brought
short

sky, looking hke black spots againstthe

and

of the

shmy ground, having

was

covered

horses

banks

haste

under

in all directions

which

the

to

this

sank

Zabieha

and

scattered

but

the knees

had

wind

his

sport

us

the

unloading

I went

tents

fact, the
to

of

one

promised

disagreeablekind.

most

for

ducks

refuge,received

uncongenial face,I engaged

were

shortest

taken

wild

his

here

was

Pamirs, intending shortly to put

the

disappeared up

coming

the

up

of the

away,

spite of

caravaneers

and

bath

introduced

great hunter, who

the

altitude

Torta-Sin,

and

of

While

The

door

this Nimrod
to

the lake.

is about

which

of the

big game.

him

and

Bor-Teppeh,

Kirghiz,the guardian

compatriots,
in

of

LAKE

BLACK

THE

dead

lake,

fish.
almost

everywhere sprinkled
(53)

with

an

AFGHANISTAN

AROUND

larvae.

of

found
The

cold

the

began

baits

right,and

By

white

gulls,and

which

made

much

storm

began,

few

towards

returned

We

sand

spouts

The

in

rose

in

the

cloud
the

merely

sun

During

the

streams

the

strong

night a

reach

our

the

of

lake,

steps

flowed

morning

of"

were

midday
and

they

dries
resume

(54)

till

ceasing
front

of us,

great height.
and

sun

the

logical
meteoro-

high regions.
the

across

from

once

10"C

"

leaden

up

their

of

20" to 30".

is

registered.
Small

sun.

water

completely dry.
them

If

face

fairlylargequantity of
now

the

gradually

the

of

one

9" to

under

geese,

midday,

in

in

falls at

cold

were

wild

plain in

instant

an

thermometer

in which

sun

for

of

rises

to

is

observed

passes

hastened

We

in

the

That

shade.

phenomena

the

40"C

Kirghiz

again.

whirls, some

showed

perceived

we

without

In

camp.

thermometer

10"C

to

fruitless
the

was

which

calm

take

to

Kara-Kul

bevy

the

attempts

that

It

blows

all becomes

Fresh

shore

storm

and

midday,

midnight, when

started

daily

went

remained

following the

he

during

We

of the

waters

I threw

which

QX

"

think

commotion.

"

to

lake

to

the

that

inhabited.

not

the

and

or

taste.

intact.

were

worms

water

bite.

to

therefore,reason

there was,
were

down

points of

tried at different

the

unpleasant

went

lines; the

our

tasted

saltish,very

thermometer

night, and
up

Zabieha

while

of

trace

no

discouraged,however,

not

was

hnes

my

nitre, showed

of

efflorescence

before
normal

The

they
course

IBEX-HUNTING
thanks

only

detained
of the

with

till

us

Torta-Sin

o'clock
and

in the

his

left the

The

dog.

and

Kirghiz, a heavy
a

long

the

fork

he

dog,

with

used
was

too

apparently

eager

mountains.

One

accompanied

us

It

was

bright

directed

We

we

the

hour

an

bordered

had
wild

moment

to

of rocks

danger

of smooth

in

early

big

the

of

breaking

granite

dawn
animals.

of

assumed

stream

At

their

were

in

now

amid
every

where
legs. Every-

heaps

enormous

outline, which

appearance

daybreak
(55)

steep slopes

horses

fantastic

the

the

Kara-Kul, and

the

where

the

towards

the

lay pell-mell in

us

blocks

of

shone

along giddy perpendicular cliffs

jumble

around

the

basin

of

course

Pamirs,

moon

rapidly

reached

had

we

the

chmb

in

the

the

chase.

scarcely bear

could

steps

up

during the
the

the

Ahmed,

young

which

eyes

look,
in

ibex

nights in

for

Bernard

evil

an

the

horses

our

our

by going

than

which

our

St.

teeth,

memorable

that

lustre

north-east
less

also to hold

with

As

shooting.

caravaneers,

dazzling stars, in

with

light.

the

of those

one

such

with

of

of the

gun

provided

chase

to

fellow

beardless

big tawny

wolf's

coat, with

hirsute

not

of

two

of Torta-Sin

match-lock

while

support
kind

big

strange weapon

as

make

about

conduct

the

saddle

his

carrying across

was

man

rooms

day's chase.

horseback

the

under

morning

vaulted

for next

refugeon

storm

of this to

advantage

arrangements

our

We

8th.

took

we

The

nights.

small

the

in

evening

refuge,and

July

of the

the coolness

to

our

of

guide

strously
mon-

made

AROUND

AFGHANISTAN
laid

We

alight.

us

aside
and

climbing the mountain,

in search

the

among
of

of the game.

ibex

rocks

suspectingour
the
in

nimble
front

was

at his

stones,

to

view,

climbed
We

us.

fallen
our

the

at

on

rushed

Zabieha.

I let them
of

vain.

after

crestfallen and

weary,

animals, they said.

only
The

returned
heat

was

where

our

On

the

which

were

of

and,
stifling,

the

toned

pure

beauty.

stillness

of the

Kauf

which

kuldjas

and

Enselme

posted myself
it

as

passed

return

magnificent

some

behind,

remained
not

was

fortunate.

more

altitude

in
in

but

companions

down

9th

of

peak,

mann

immense

an

in unruffled
We

in

immediately.

by
I

helping,we

again

July

to

started
made

rose

white
water

the

bathed

its contours,

down

sky like

reflected

walk

the

had

point

remained.

morning
the

hour's

almost

Torta-Sin, who
he

Zabieha

flock of

us,

missed

having

rocks

the

moraines, brought

my

horses

bright and

the

saw

difficultyin getting

some

old

animal

midday

at

An

and

on,

an

general fusillade,

followed

go

without

elsewhere.

close to

forward

shooting

Shortly

of

flock

ravine,

accident

seek

disappeared

Torta-Sin

hope

in

of skill.

foot

crest

us

serpent

sign ;

spiteof

to

want

own

made

without

had

(ovis polii),which

the

In

presence.

beasts

of

angry

below

set forth

glided like

he

for

heavy

in hand

guns

Torta-Sin

grazing

was

with

suddenly

furs, too

our

weather

in

the

The
scene

definitely this

breathing
(56^

hazy light

majesticallyin

tent.
;

was

difficult.

glaciers
was

time
The

full
in

track

SINGULAR

the

followed
"

by

shore

when

the

of sand

When

brought

which

are

be

few

curious

ruin

but

concrete."

The
of the

consists

is of

concrete

horns

of the

Some

note

tents

walls

built

"

and

are

explore the lake

to

by lagoons
formerly

which

covered

contracted.

the

the

approaches
nothing

ibex

returned

decline
*

Mere

"

Ice

to

lake

with

extent

without

top of the

their

our

of

weapons,

Moz-Kul*

the most

stones.

lake.

(57)

which
wonderful

has

funnels
in

quence
conse-

day

hummocky

having

was

walls; and

will,undoubtedly, one

vast

camp

resemble

disappear

to

faUing-inof

the

of

which

destined

discharge

heaps

side furrowed

the

lagoons,

in

gun

that

to

colours

our

and

slow

than

which

land

by water,

it is

this

of the lake

more

binding

went,

this southern

armed

that

These

the

on

We

"

of

half

clearlyindicate

steep sides, are

of

proud.

so

would

somewhat

four

clay, and

arkar

Kirghiz

there

in

nitre

them

attention

interestingto

"

engineers

hand,

We

the

path

with

water.
to

took

we

principle of present-day buildings,of

modern

with

Near
my

sight.

covered

thanks

menu.

lake

terrible

that

the

to

find

to

caravans

air with

of the

of fresh

attracted

demolished,

the

meadow

it,and

on

in the

mutton

end

pools

encamped

the

to

us

enable

impenetrable
the

vals
at inter-

it is marked

fiUs the

storm

reached

we

which

almost

which

were

pyl"nesy

the way
mist

of Kara-Kul

RUIN

had

show

ground.
an

admiring
the

the

sun

tints.

tunity
oppor-

wards
southat

his

AROUND

AFGHANISTAN

The
the

night

was

thermometer

burned

the

up

for
satisfied,
the

was

towards

the

with

slate which

reflected

on

stove, the

heat

this

through
changed
in

we

were

reflections.

spectacle,we

the

on

arrived

left
soon

bank

west

The

rise to

leads

which

well

yard

of

to

the

; all

the

of

polished
gigantic

march

hour's

suddenly

of ice furrowed

lake

emerald-green

with

the

admire

novelty

and leaving
glacier,

to the

Rung-Kul,
Moz-Kul

on

we

the

of ice.

lake

is very

refuge of

of the

of another

In the

round

went

in front

exclamations

Coloured

stopping

track

refuge

keepers.

Without

of

scenery

crevices

wide

by

of

black

Roof

walls

the

and

the

broke

was

An

mazars,

tiles of

fiery sun.

the

marching

few

"

the

immense

the banks

on

all

into

kilometres

alone

us, like the

furnace

all directions

of the

of

us

still

of
be

to

entry

our

eight

rags,

Here

us.

had

favoured

for

landscape

and

dry dung
we

were

and

of the

covered

was

of the

sky

We

we

caravaneers,

mountains.

arid

around

up

"

World

the

previous

ourselves

fuel since

followed

horns

monotony

the

warm

help

other

no

between
with

burnt

was

it did

the

although

tents

insuflicient heat

south,and

ornamented
sinister

this

had

the

by

magnificent.

valley

the

To

by

Fortunately

weather

wide

flame

we

Pamirs.

5"C.

"

unearthed

With

horses.

our

of

large roots

kept

we

under

only indicated, as

minimum

night, a

cold

very

kept,

but

few

fine ovis

joy

on

lake.

(58)

the

there

were

horns, which
part

of

no

gave

Torta-Sin,

started

who
his

off

at

Iskandar

yellow dog.

and

into

came

which

did not

the

to

refuses

work.

sleep

to

in

He

has

at

Moz-Kul, and

foot

the

in the

shadow

of

which

seemed

to

of

ages
An

the

hour

the

an

Ak-Ba"tal.

Pamirs, separates
the Kara-Kul
towards
if cut
a

which

which

by

the

rock

colouringis

I walked

exclamations

it

Iskandar

was

already in
*

Altitude

the
=

of

the

the

caravans.

crossed

we

highest in
the

the

great lakes,

two

real

tints,of

first

the

in

Rung-Kul
breach,

opens
which

as

through
soft

the

eyes.
I heard
I

with

plain. The

the

lunched

we

for

giant,it

violet

scampered

4,540

shelter

of

some

the

at the

were

making

justleft,and

which
furious

horse,which

my

of

rapidly down

noisy

we

there

marching.

delightto

ascended

we

Before

one

had

with

and

go

evening.

leaving the vaUey

basins

were

pickaxe

crystalhne

As

we

the

put

as

pass,

we

to

gun

rock, isolated,unique,

serve

the

Torta-Sin

rascal

difficult one,

been

This

enormous

half after

Zabieha

which

midday

defile.

to

him

about

morning,

towards

have

world

and

in

seven

fair to be

bade

eyes,

cunning Kirghiz returned,

Ak-Ba"tal

ascent, which

and

"

his

with

and

his

the whole

During

gun

words

That

taken

The

the river
of

"

PAMIRS

his

him

followed

"

sun."

llth.

with

laughing :

empty-handed, only
July

armed

complimentary,

me

the

IN

yard muttering

seem

translated

once

THE

PASS

suspected
himself

away
animal

metres.

(59)

behind

at

towards

me

oaths

were

having
the

some
:

let go

caravans

fortunatelystopped

AROUND

AFGHANISTAN

of his

own

flowed

on

it

the

was

Ak-Su.
bare

the

where

at the foot

of

of

to

the
corner

but

there

to fetch

The
sudden

Khan

was

wood,

no

from

evening

the

was,

our

We

continued

make

our

desolate.

The

Animals

Trumpet

Altitude

and

the

following day

in

line of road

discouraged
exhausted

call.
=

4,180

metres.

(60)

by

which
us

the

his

weather

calm

and
unfolds

by

gun,

night.

more

gorges

the

by
somewhat

took
the

see

men,

after

disappeared in

long

can

eye

camp.

caravaneers,

through

it ;

through

dailyobliged

were

the

return

mountain.

the

babbled

men

war

pointed

the

sound
of

slopesnear

the

that

from

the

and

way

country

unfortunately,disturbed

with

dog,

in the

on

departure of Torta-Sin, who,

dispute

to bivouac

us

victorious

nomads

and

terrified

pretended

clear brook

beaten

the

took

trumpet

the

to

cool,^

was

his

the

with

were

round

of

there

up

as

seemed

numerous

called

returned

ascended

and

maze,

stampede

caravanbash

far

as

pebbly plain,

gathered

Our
a

whistled

as

the

announce

roots

violent

to

"

pyramid

conqueror

The

this

which

pebbles ;

follow

and

immense

herald-at-arms

summit

round,

sugoors

formerly when

left of

uninterestingroad

an

Korne"-Tartik.

uniform

intricate

an

saw

An
of

and

"

we

little stream

would

we

infernal

an

"villages"

inhabitants.

that

right

at

large and

very

formed

dancing

paths,

of

Ak-Ba"tal

pyramids

the

drink

to

bed

On

be

to

accord

its

heat,

more
as

far

monotony.
moved

on

LUNCH

ENSELME

AND

IN

ZABIEHA

THE

SHADE

ON

THE

OF

AN

AK-BA"TAL

ISOLATED

PASS

"

"

"*"

ROCK

(4,540 METRES)

AROUND

AFGHANISTAN
"

before

further

the

at

Look, Sahib/'

us.

end

triangle which

filtered

night the lightof

At

effects,and

same

little

flame,

render

to

black

appeared

of sunshine

ray

of

sacred

Ruzi

hole

be

to

the

me.

have

produced
of

was
always scintillating,

motionless

of

invisible fissure.

inexplicable presence

that

saw

of luminous

projection

some

must

moon

to

kind

the

through

the

almost

said

the

sufficient

in the

stone

the

desert

plain.
We

encamped

dune

the

on

serrated

of

edge

mountains

I went

with

which

is

opened

forming

the

Enselme

lake.

had

we

further

noticed

visit two

to

fairlywide

with

stories.

Meanwhile,

it

had

seemed,

the

in

settled

before.

of

one

the

horizontal

few

the

were

caverns,

winter

low

evening

Zabieha

yoort and

procure

Kirghiz who,

chimney

us

deep

in

on

on,

Behind

certainlyinhabited

could

one

kilometre

vault

passages

went

to

sheep

from

if

see

the

eight versts

some

distant.
Our

companion

and

informed

The

Kazi"

followed

or

by

gentleman
while

that

judge"
an

of

he

aide de

waiting

for the

mountain

camp

about

something

had

we

shortlyafterwards

came

he

day

in his mission.

succeeded

of the

was

very

and

with

pleasant

amiable
an

ligent
intel-

conversation

promised yoort.

magic lightof
sun

had

the end

distinguishedmanners,
whom

the

towards

of the tribe

air,with

In the

when

us

returned

to

sunset

at the

disappear

like

the

(62)

exquisitemoment

casts

glow

of

on
a

the

nearest

brazier, the

LOVELY

yoort

last,borne

at

came

it was

that

yoort with

stout

July

On

1 4th.

National

of the

had

who
return

wished

the

at

Zabieha'

horse

The

of
well

as

animal

astray during the night,and

chief of

to the
us

his

sunset

in

clouds

were

dark

camels

form

we

taken

were

citron

scudding along,

It

colouring of

infinite

was

Rung-Kul

of the

yet the

water

able

gather

to

in

and

looking

was

good-bye

say

light black

which

against
out

as

the

which

if cut

of

out

aquarellewith

lake

few

in

fishing made

at

unfruitful

as

were

doubt, have

no

dehcacy.

attempts

numerous

Ahmed

young

man

Kakemono

real

was

Japanese twilight,a

stood

of the mountains

lunch

to

us

to

Pamirski-Post.

as

to

wished

great kindness, lent

with

yellow sky

silk paper.

The

the

Enselme

starting it

obliged to
far

as

and

as

must,

Rung-Kul, who,

yoort and

Suddenly

therefore

were

first crackers

take

to

moment

gone

We

sleepingin

Kazi

The

disappeared.

him.

of

Zabieha

was

had

for

the shuddering

the

I heard

It

politeness,and

that

under

its felt roof.

awakening

but

-gray

previous evening ;

thought

goose-hunting.

his camp,

found

the

Festival.

gone

our

the

as

tents, and

rejoicedat

we

magnificent iron

two

risen

already shaking our

canvas

at

had

wind

The

camels.

by

TWILIGHT

as

is here

in
less

the

Kara-Kul

the

briny,and

microscopic shrimps

as

;
was

well

as

little shells.
Our

caravaneers

their horse

were

Ruzi

talked

agitated by

much
of

nothing

(63)

short

the

of

loss of

returning

AROUND

AFGHANISTAN

Osh.

to

The

my

arguments

had

to

bring

from

back

Iskandar

easily

had

other

our

much

Httle effect

as

We

that

which

to

that

opinion
"

therefore
think

to

"

Ahmed

young

leave

Kirghiz

took

stray away

Ruzi

beginning

taken

have

horses

and

were

as

Besides, they

liberty at night

caravanbash

of

was

might

also

search.

blew

restraining them.

The

camp.

began

in

of too

advantage

which

storm

astride

our

best horse.
An

honest

wandering
road

to

Kirghiz

beasts

be

and

side

Osh.

towards

It

the

to

by side,with

back

us

Indian

in

file the

Pamir,

failure

let

of the

nose

were

this

themselves

Kirghiz fashion, two

the

the

the

was

dejected, crestfallen,they

tied,according

and

taken

Ak-Ba"tal,and, disgusted with

resolutelygoing
time,

had

they

brought

soon

by two,

touching

one

the

tail of another.

During breakfast,
found

As

of

wind

was

I induced

about

to

caught

terrible noise.
with

us,

again

down
storm

returned

and

for that

and

to

caravaneers

the

yoort which

could

then

were

the

march

to
:

the

frail

we

had

the necks

of

to

avoid

try to

our

canvas

(64)

sand

gust
a

taking

it

shelter

reduced

house.

constantly

animals
the

of

tents.

with

collapsed

without

We

inhospitable

strike

longer think

no

had

definite.
this

longer on

He

give the signalfor departure

night

fatiguing
over

the

We
we

furious.

suspicionsbecame

not, however, remain

land, and

Our

nothing.

could

Ruzi

in order

which

to

bend

to face the

blinded

us.

THE

JIGHIT

SENT

OUR

BY

CAMP

COMMANDING

THE

ON

THE

OFFICER

BANKS

OF

OF

THE

THE

RUNG-KUL

PAMIRSKI-POST

AFGHANISTAN

AROUND

sat

down

mingling

with

largepailsand

with
the

children

joyous

shouts

ending

echo.

with

long

Uke

the

to

The

hour

the

the

of

All

the

man

at

that

became
of

sacred

of

song

day,

next

the

of

rode

What

the
was

not

with

evening

The

Kirghiz
in

the

our

from

days spent

service

his

out

peaceable smiling

the

called

face

attentive.

and

He

introspection the

in

evening

all his

priest

calm

children

courier

letter from

The

should
bow

to

to

the
the

to

not

strangely

came

the

commanding

demanded

letter

I handed

order, and

this

Alexeieff

the

to

our

Chinese

the

cross

joined by

were

we

way

hunter

our

stretched

man

jighit^ who

immediately.

off

On

old

of

passport of Colonel

the

was

Post.
we

had

We

frontier.

ceremony

It

grave

of

Pamir

otherwise

papers,

this

over

mountains.

daybreak,

at

accoutred, the bearer

officer

never-

tribe, a majestic face

The

he

serrated

intoning

Islam,

their

Namaz-gar.
The

added

sun

moment

tribe, and

the

beasts

the

became

old

goats, whilst

Meanwhile

ceased.

noise

the

came

times.

The

of prayer.

hand.

the

of the

ancient

setting behind

was

to milk

beard, presided

gray

then

women

bleatings repeated by

elder

patriarch of

Kirghiz

The

day's separation.

astonishment
the
us

to

Kara-Kul.

recogniseTorta-Sin,

Zabieha

dismissed

and

Kirghiz horseman.

paid

him.

We

him

the

crossed

prayer.

horsemen

in

the

pay

of

Pamir.

(66)

Russia

who

carry

on

the

postal

PLEASING

the

river

pebbly,

then

dried

bifurcated.

station, the

other

right and

rock

mountain

As

soil,and

by following the

we

within

came

At
and

that

towards

come

was

been

host

our

where

faces

took

of savages,

be asked

We
wife ;
*

The

natives

nothing

she

to

the

was

point
Shah-Tan

where

the
or

to

We

meal

time

to

is established
=

the

3,700

and

is called

metres.

not

The

in this

officer.

captain's
had

who

Pamirski-Post

the

eyes

parade

woman

(67)

rooms

neck-tie.

of the

not

alighted:

accept hving

you

Altitude

had

should

we

white

The
versation
con-

unkempt,

thirteenth

Murgah.

the

which

beards

who

remind
at

gate

mihtary

but

astonished

our

display a
men

introduced

were

the

was

Fortunately,
to

the

pass

comfortable

and

noses,

cheeks.

broad-shouldered

exile have

station.

restive.

clean

peeUng

dress,nor

to

of the

welcome,

was

reflected

the mirrors

brick-coloured

rough

into

us

saltpetre

Kirghiz interpreter.

time

long

bordered

torrent

horsemen
first

the

was

of the

for his horse

difficult,

very

for

out

yards

excellent

an

us

gave

It

right bank

The

other

high

whitish

round

gone

sun.

the
mounted
sur-

somewhat

the

on

two

saw
us.

the

commander,
captain

moment

of

hundred

few

old

to

joined the Ak-Su,

growing

path

the

to

had

we

as

foot

then

meadows,

green

soon

the

precipitouscUff

shining in

We

of

the

at

roofs

some

foot

very

incUned

followed

we

the

mazar.

Pamirski-Post.
with

which

led

visible

hardly

at

and

bed

wide

very

Shortly afterwards

up.

noticed

track

passed
by

the

with

Pshart,

WELCOME

come

by

the

AFGHANISTAN

AROUND

live in the

to

previous

The

not

Our

arrival

be

feted

Cossack

shown

songs

during

unreservedly

refused

to

in

Kind
A

them

of

single

beaten

were

Then

we

hard

and

inhospitable
the

by

bouranes,

winter

nights

the

brain.

To

freezes

bear

this
of

special temperament
stoic

endurance

to

not

the

on

must

we

threshold

face

start, and

the

it

men,

the

caravans

speaking
and

with

far

guide

from

Osh

as

was

seemed,

Captain Busch,

to

the

onward

Before

Shah-Djan.*

provide us

he

showed

for

unknown,

spoke

of

Pamirski-Post

From
the

than
I

if he could

"

had

further

caravaneers

We

of that

whose

further.

fact,for

to the

continued.

the

the

Iskandar,

go

go

of

admire.

We

never

him

night.

strangely soft

story of the

giants whose

I found

of sorts.

was,

have

following morning

station
out

of

cold

must

northern

The

all its details.

the

benumbs

and
one

in

eagle'snest,

intense

body

those

the

plaintivetones

of the inhabitants

real

the

existence

thin

pleasures

station

hfe

dwelling, a

the

charming

our

far into

with

sung
the

long day

monotonous

where

Our
the

over

had

the

played softly.

I8th.

July

there

hunting stories, Kirghiz

by

rhythm, accompanied by
balalaika'^

died

superstitious.

gaily prolonged

was

was

legends,and

had

disease; but

to

appear

evening

twelfth

heart

from

year

did

hostess

The

Pamir.

asked
as

the

mandoline.
in

caravan

bring provisions

to

the

July

station,

comes

and

road.

(68)

returns,

of

every

course,

by

to

year
the

same

Chinese

and

grace,
the

frontier.
I went

discussions

them

that

that

the road

should

we

be

guided by

horses, and

for the

bad

formally agreed

to

they might repent

last obtained

the

to

me

accompany

they did

it if

that

promise

the

they had

end

follow

not

the

knew

Kirghiz who

assuring

after

However,
too

not

was

Sartes, but

our

reminding them, besides,that

after

passes,

endless.

were

with

parley then

to

possible

best

the

with

consented

He

GUIDE

NEW

they would

and

that

me,

I at

try

not

to

back.

go

We

left the

and

M.

Busch,
of

costume

after

in

the

Kirghiz gave

The

yoort where

we

inside

by carpets

and

around

boxes

green

riches.

looking

Our

which

with

man

After

wall

stood

was

and

he

on

the

contained
to us,

his

the

colours.

red

enormous

introduced

wore

on

brilhant

and

family

venerable-

His

name

breast

two

energetic face.

an

good reception.

was

large

medals.

lunch,

embraced,

we

in

materials

yoorts of

the

covered

was

undoubtedly

guide

Rahim-Berdi,2
Russian

the

along

lunched

Russian

the

demolished,

at

us

versts

seven

station,now
on

the

donned

or

of

front

in

further

httle

Six

captains

two

had

occasion

Cossack.

front of the old

Volosno"e,^where

All

the

passed

we

arrived

we

for

Oremburg

an

of the

in company

who

Shah-Djan,

cemetery
and

station

Russian

and

word,

photographed
our

meaning

caravan

District

God-given.

(69)

the

group

started

amid

of

guests ;
cheers.
.

Chief.

AFGHANISTAN

AROUND

yoorts seemed

the

Soon

in the

birds

again,

sad

raised

their

further
One

constructed
When

stars

on

evening

intense

flashes

of

19th

completely
keeping
midday

we

covered

point of

took

corner

size ;
that

To

sky

the

foot

where

south,

; to the

of

the
some

north, clouds
bluish

by long

the

end

Ak-Su,

erected

of

opened they

prepossessing.

"

towards
In this

Fresh

attempts

yoort.

line

still

Bak-Sholdi.

crowned

my

China,

and

reached

we

the

time
of

frontier

freshly-fallen
snow,

the river called

this

when

not

was

the

on

sightof

with

we

the

on

up

in

the

fishing were

at

town

the

at

furrowed

were

were

along

grassy

very

guarded

lightning.

the

On

winged

immense

an

encamped

still visible

blackness

and

giants.

shine.

to

what
some-

there

staircase

silhouetted

beginning

strained

dungeons,

of

began

mountains
of

their

ruins

we

were

superb glacierswere
of

of

came,

which

were

the

say

desert

domes

monumental

people

old

white

big

the

us

with

Here

would

by

great rocks

Around

appearance,

the

misty tops, cyclopean

forms.

lions.

than

more

meadows

desolate.

and

architectural

by

of the

green

fantastic

dragons,

no

with
few

fish of

showed

Poison,"

success.
able
reason-

black

said

our

inside

guide

laconically.
Our
a

fairlywide
*

We

of the

continued

caravan

had
Pamir

plainbordered

already

been

warned

the

next

day

its way

through

bare.
by high cliffs,
fearfully
at

fish.

(70)

Osh

of

this

dangerous property

Meanwhile,
and

time

same

flowers.

river

below

metres

had

geese

Zabieha
flown

valley

widened

put

the

up

flowed

us

swimming.

of the

shelter

which

at

both

caught

trout

and

of

Zabieha,

la

barbel

were

now

and
frontier,
fresh

made
of

in

very
started

we

breeze.

marsh,

The

which

httle progress
the

curious

this

the

the

of grass.

the

"

or

the

at

sugar-loaf
White

visible

strange

We

in the

Ak-Su

fish

days.

resembling
the

under

Iskandar,

served

"

Stone

for two

carefully removed

in

but
gorge

enormous

he

were

geese

the

black

it up

to

everybody's opinion

us
our

excellent.

was

We

barbel.

d'h"tel,and

ma"tre

and

been

after which

poisonous matter,
"

which

thirty

3,810 metres,

Ak-Tash

yet had

gorge

expanse

The

and

day

guidance

broad

became

point

After

altitude of

an

name

the

During

at the

was

downwards,

reach.

terrace.

the

still far away,

was

that

shot

Dong-Keldik

high

bears

from

violet

Kirghiz refuge,

or

river,in
a

of

into

yoort

the

sent

out

confluence
of

"

robat

path penetrated a rocky

the

and

narrow,

valley

The

half -demolished.

kilom"tres,there

"

Istik

small

with

studded

fifteen

about

After

the

Ak-Su, crossingat

of the

bank

meadows

green

of the

mouth

the

BARBEL

path approaches

long intervals, the

at

along

runs

OF

SORT

caravaneers.

anxious

early with

ground

of

horses

our

in

to

Chinese

cloudy sky
valley

the

was

continual

suddenly

cemetery, the purely white

(71)

the

and
a

floundered, stuck,

spiteof
We

the

reach

came

cupolas

real
and

shouting
upon

of which

AFGHANISTAN

AROUND

gave

the

Rahim,

to

distance
from

to the

note

gay

the

by

The

cross-roads,a

road

of

out

into Chinese
"

At

which

which

opens

little lake

surrounded

dahar-Kul

or

formerly an
devoured

seeing

the
to

with

trouble

himself, and
hand

that

it

graceful

Ash-

the

was

told

lived in its waters

prophet Ali,

the

cended
diminish, condes-

faithful

of

form

Rahim-Berdi

but

number

own

Stone

Ak-Tash,

of the

dragon

all travellers

his

"

left.

Serpent.

his

called

penetrates

of the

pass

meadows

enormous

track

This

rightand

rocky

our

by

to caravans,

deep breach,

together and

of the

Lake

which

to

at

were

China.

precipitouswall

springs come

killed

the

we

terror

to

to the

seen

territoryby

numerous

that

Wakan

is

foot of the

the

Here

Afghanistan through

A"k-Yuli, and

Bayonet

from

go

white

frequented by Afghan

track

also

the

(Stone-Bayonet).

of considerable

crossed

in

river,which

the

crossed

We

forbidding.

was

source

pillagerswho
leads

Ak-Tash,

the pass of Naiza-Tash

from

our

of

dome

enormous

landscape

where

overlooked

Gudari,

Mazar

ing
accord-

It was,

landscape.

snow.
freshly-fallen

descended

us

dull

and

day

came

one

fierce

monster

of the

Pamirs.
The

changed,

scene

through
glaciers

of

the

In

this

north,

circus

spread

caravan

meet

Kara-Kul,

three

and

Be"k.

which

by

east

itself out

passes

(72)

marching

crossing

frontier

Khan-Yuli,

the

on

After

Tagdumbash.

large river, our

then

were

we

bordered

circus^

vast

and

are,

in

the

fairly

a
a

green

beginning

,/l',*|)'

at

GOATS'

THE

where

valley

on

flocks

numerous

half-way

the

up

side

every

white

rose

the

slope stood

yoorts and

Behind

grazing.

were

FESTIVAL

the

yoorts

of Ak-Be"t

pale mazar

(altitude 3,870 metres).

=

We

the

executed
the

was

This

in

its

novelty

have

and

local

old

each

other

cause

crowded

men,

before

grown

the

was

the

goat.
with

to

forget that

soon

to

of it.

horns

while
the

prey,

saddle,and

horns

be

to

the

swift

which
goes

coming, making

saddle,and

Kirghiz

many

it at

raises

between

(73)

speed in

the

twists

of

hand

so

as

to

seize

the

himself

up

to

manages

and

yet

gallop.

one

leaning over

he

turns

full

with

on

he

off at full

not

catching hold

movement

presses

had

easilycaught

too

in

beginning. Holding

ground,

With

close

with

stood

impatience. They

consisted

of his

fine animals

special sport,

would

passing

The

contest.

women

scanned

who

horsemen

goat whose

young

pommel

his

victim

this

amusement

the

graze

the

the

and

quivering with

fact, the

animal

That
to

in

"

and

"

out

it, and

around

for

and

pricked up

brought

gets

one

for

beginning the

they rode, trained

ears

fascinatingby

so

that

to

savage

crowd, composed especiallyof

tumultuous

and

cruelly

seems

colour,

taste

is the

livinganimal

Festival.

sensitiveness,
proves

passionate

which

amusement,

of

chief

fantasia.

extravagant

an

Goats'

or

the

by

Kirghiz on horseback,

young

honour

our

tamasha,

European

our

arrival

our

on

all the

and by
village,

who
It

welcomed

were

his

leg

and

plain,going,
to

escape

AFGHANISTAN

AROUND
other

the

the

excited

by

crowd,

defends

reduced

at

the

shapelessrag,
thrown
torn

soon

and

of the

one

as

the

has

runners

the

the

gives up

conqueror,
reward

goat,

game

and

hands,

ear-rings,a handkerchief, a piece

And

when,

after

horses

horsemen

wild

much

The

racing and

to their

the

made

leaving

at

their

efforts

grumbling, and

silver.

falls,
and

ends,

applause

fresh,although

there

us

at

morning, accompanied by

the

chief

was

on

towards

terraces

These

that

day

overhung by

little horses

left

we

Be"k

the

slopes are

we

the

steep.

stopped

to

rocky
At

take

again courageously, and

gigantic

the

distance

staircase.
a

Ak-Su,

On

of the

and

village.
our

series

of

Aii-Tash.

moment

our

brave

then

they

started

breath,

climbed

turning

quickly

very
round

building entirely white

(74)

in

making
a

mitted
sub-

o'clock

of the

cone

every

we

back

go

seven

climbed

we

pass,

to

useless,they

were

out

way

of

the

set

It

ring,

"

many

game

yoorts, amid

caravaneers

attempt

but, feelingthat

that

our

exhausted,

are

return

22nd.

unfruitful

off

at

onlookers.

July

the

times,

the

caught

of

of the

outstretched,

arm

pair

and

of

of

receive

the

in

hundreds

with

ground, picked up

goat,

state

to

men

of the

The

the

to

re-taken

take

to

first conqueror,

furiously.

property

is taken

seek

encouragement

of half-an-hour

end

is declared

comes
a

This

the

and

and

brutally.

away

As
he

the

on

beast.

shouts
his

him

pursue

unfortunate

the

him

from

who

play ers,

we
:

it

saw
was

GROUP

IN

THE

FRONT

GOAT

OF

"

THE

YOORT

OF

"

THE

"

VOLOSNO"E

OF

"

TAMASCHA

AMONG

THE

KIRGHIZ

OF

SHAH-DJAN

AK-BE"T

CHAPTER

THE

FROM

The

Be"k

pass

vaneers

Kotrgan

infernal

"

that

authorities
of

pass

Kara"l

the

robbed

cara-

Tash-

"

Kok-Muinak

"

Arpalik

"

The

"

It

frontier

all the

passages

Tagdumbash
the

separates

Sarikol.

three

of

the

cross

which

the

the

southern

is

lines

Pamirs

the

in

chain,

of

from

itself

pass

Russia,

China,

Afghanistan.

and
We

about

were

there

where

said,

to

that

route,

interesting

The

covered

the

atmosphere

Very

stage.
and

we

in

the

pass
the

Ak-Be"t

did

the

hesitate

to

difficult, but

its

as

our

have

Raskem

take
at

by
a

way

least

more

novelty.
that

snow

ground,
did

fortunately,

had

fallen

thick

forebode

the

clouds

with

start

most

favourable

the

the

pleasant

very

dispersed gradually,

hope

of

conditions.

accompanied
(77)

the

during
obscured

fog

not

could

yoorts

guide

to

of

valley
not

more

all that

out

however,

being,

high

by

even

23rd.

July

night

the

perhaps

was

marked

intention

hardly explored,

country

road

no

reach

shortest

the

enter

to

was

My

caravan.

of

to

you

of

meet

"

most

table-land

valley

the

is the

pass

high

the

Tang-i-Tar

with

Chinese
The

"

Trouble

"

the

YARKAND

Yarkand.

enables

which

passport

Yarkand

to

TO

with

contact

way

the

gorge

Be"k

The

First

"

the

and

Tor-Bashi

improvised

An

"

On

"

FRONTIER

CHINESE

Illi-Su

"

IV

us

crossing

chief

The
for

the

short

AROUND

AFGHANISTAN

the

in

the

alighted from

then

time,

should

we

Persia

into

of the

The

clad,

further

on,

the

reached

the

Be"k

covered

with

expanse
summit

If the
descent

down

at

the

where

the
we

again

of
met

moment.

with
on

reach

of

the

Be"k

and

ibex

of

we

schist

of

walls

appeared

is

4,700

with
wide

are

the

Luckily,

the

It

sides.

end
the

of

mishap,

seemed

the

Sarikol

(78)

of

that

animate

of

followed

we

and

road

every
;

valley with
as

stage
"

"

rock,

reached

slipped at

trace

no

tumble

danger

caravan

horses

our

was

to

the

river, which

Be"k

which

in

without

rapid slope

contrary,

of fallen

heaps
moment

every

side, the

obliged to

are

among

metres.

Russian

territory is, on

came

the

of

the

on

of 45"

this

sulphur-coloured
never

easier

Still there

living creature

and

passage

altitude

an

necks.

boulders,

over

at

horses

bottom

liberty;

at

lake, partly frozen, occupies the

is

their

breaking

camels,

! to fire at them

The

success.

angle

an

flocks

path exists,you

no

functionaries

us

two

high, alas

Chinese

into

perilous;

too

of

ascent

few

were

we

should

we

narrower,

between

pass

small

became

valley

snow.

prospect

any

around

grazing

were

slopes,but

the

on

re-entry

our

difficulty.Numerous

slope presented no

warmly

of

China.

of

Empire

the

leave

subject

presently

acquainted with

become

last

until

way,

Se"stan

took

and

the

was

the

on

see

the

by

undoubtedly

He

fashion.

Kirghiz

Tzar

horseback,

where

if

the

we

no

its

should

confluence

Rahim-Berdi

THE

MAZAR

SARIKOLIS

OF

OF

SEID-HASSAN

ILI-SU

that

maintained

conical

appeared

tents

their

raised

they

Sarikol, the

yoort had

seen

us

ford

swimming

We

lost their

Beikin-Aiizi

clear

had

they

hour

an

after

make

to

sheep, while

thapsia plaster,and

But

in China

were

I did
be

to

"

the

our

not

surnames.
been

would

be

asked
and

with

Literally :

for

sheet

Christian

glad
to

the
Mouths

to

mandarin
of the

and

moreover,

of

Be"k.

(79)

efforts

bought

them
chest

chest, who
skin.
that

us

passport
reason
on

timable
ines-

the

Ruzi's

remind

good

sounds

medicine

coarse

of paper

names,

know,

big

for my

me

mount

caravaneers

up,

of the

to

even

and

with

his

came

give him,

satisfied

have

he

crack

"

Karaiil
:

to

with

were

new

The

them

on

the

difficult

was

safe and

exhausted

put it

coughing enough

was

us.

out

us

water.

dried

took

ford

whose

bines, a

cheer

Enselme

river

fire of

us,

to

the

Zabieha,

reached

thing, quickly
arrived

the

in

of

footing,and

then.

of the

inspired

us

filled with

yoort

granite.

left bank

showed

grassy

inhabitants

his boots

now

in the

and

which

The

they

and

had

had

of

river

narrow

of

the

Nevertheless,

now

stumbled,

waters

horses

our

on

on

confidence.

gestures.

many

ourselves

of the

bend

felt

of

despair, the

in

giganticwall

roaring

moderate

only

to

by

found

soon

last at

at

However,

yoorts.

were

we

cupolas

slope, overlooked
We

when

o'clock,

five

about

find

should

we

SARIKOL

THE

FORDING

which

I should

what

Tash-Kurgan

had

I wrote

titles.
of

which

he

we

to

use

whom

it

AFGHANISTAN

AROUND

"

"

the
that

gray

aroused

stood

gorge

Sarikol

the

On

covered

with

of the

the

of the

one

grace,

river, stood

of

of

the
were

we

of the latter

Tash-Kurgan,

of

which

chain

tall

the

towards

and

frontier,the

the

rocky

which

the

seen

of

confluence

valley

front,

note

shrubs

walls

course

towards

solid

enormous

the

There,

they

hired

it with

especiallygave

women

After

Kirghiz

us

close

banks

the

on

yoorts.
the

from

obtained

quite

midday,

wretched

some

night, but

for the

long

the

use

bad

very
the

most

reception.

the

girlof
kind

the

Se"d-Hassan.

of

moving in, I
the

house.

long hair, arranged

to

in

Indian

halted

mazar

During

the

ascend

lay

the

caravan

and

to

wild

had

we

of

Muz-Tagh.

ill-humoured

young

and

bank

green

foot

the Raskem-Daria,

from

negotiations,we
of

Khudjer-Ab,

mists

south, marking

to

the

left

the

separated us

The

overlooked

were

these

the

the

to

came

and

Taldik

however,

we

thorns,

their

cast

for after

we

black

cobbles,

Soon,

in order

torrent.

mass

of

the

go round

to

tints

which

and

right

willows,

apart

promontory,

the

stunted

it.

like

nothing

light

there,

admiration,

our

morning

following

and

Here

few

briars,a
the

clear

northwards,

Sarikol.

on

the

In

24th.

marching
the

improvised passport

evening.

same

July

the

take

would

jighit

of

wooden

admired

Miss

Tavar.

in innumerable

comb,
(80)

which

the

jewels of

The

end

plaits,was
kept

them

the

of her

bound

spread

out

whole

the

over

with

receive

delightedto
mother,
of

centre

gratifiedher

imitation

turquoise,which
I had

but

strangely mistaken.

end

of the

and

was

day,

declared

the

this season,

the

An

hour's

his

obstinacy,but

at

foot

the

with

his

sudden
of

discussion

our

that

of the

horses

with

the

to

death.

the old

tea

We

were

furious

and

I had

with

next
our

throw

day

men,

Raskem

all the

at

more

the

(2134)

him

to

of

her into

dawn,

the

the

vehement

as

waters.

carriers

be

ready

day.

I learnt

go

to

world

Zabieha,

This

conference

later,

asserted
certain

unfortunate
the

the

overcoming
and

to

in
difficulty
hands

in

tent, had

was

this

at

(81)
6"

who,

yoort

follow

the

next

caravaneers'

into

positivelyto
The

in the

from

the

me

witch

old

the

yaks

closely followed

penetrate

woman

find

to

an

the

further, for

height of

I ordered

follow

to

had

taken

hoped

hostess,

our

into

successful

not

present

impossible to

was

lUi-Su,

decision
men

having

as

in the

fact, towards

go

of the

was

tooth

immediately.

came

not

Raskem

account

metal.

one

on

In

would

he

on

put

caravanbash

that

valley of

upper
at

gained

white

goodwill of

the

hoped

was

ring containing

she

other

She

claimed

her

giving

by

only

likewise

mouth,

her

with

witch

old

an

walked.

pair of ear-ringsin

black

each

against
she

pleasant tinkling when

Her

knocked

which

thimbles

thread,

comb

the

hung, by

which

from

coins,

attached

were

To

back.

of her

width

WOMAN

KIRGHIZ

OLD

AN

who

ference,
interto

save

wanted

river.

discussions

stiU than

began again
the

previous

AFGHANISTAN

AROUND
I

day.

and

of

the

old

with

running

the

to

few

As

as

soon

rushed

into

forward

They

all

of

were

had

Illi-Su,but
had
in

female

only

Raskem

Upper
I
to

the

yield to

cross

where
road

decision

once

camp

we

to

would

for

drive

away

by

withdrew
a

be

go

if

they

they
find

not

accompany

the

route

to

madness.

will,

my

Kurgan,

reach

Kilyang

M.

Dauvergne.

stroll in the

Enselme

by

the
This
and

neighbourhood

gloomy thoughts.
(82)

ingly
disgust-

that

to Tash-

with

the

against

much

to

followed

went

attempt

to

and

try

mans,
Mussul-

beyond

should

willing to

man

season

taken,

unload

Wakan

and

boxes

that

forced,

should

natives

them

ask

to

my

caravaneers,

already

Zabieha, and
of the

that

therefore

was

from

at

from

unanimously

Besides, they added,

me.

metres

to

us

type,

was

and

single

twenty

4,160

help

Hebrew

carry

yaks,

mountain

the

and

answered

they

and,

valley,overlooked

originally came

could

which

yaks

after

us

was

horns,

Sarikolis, Shiite

first word

filthy. My

as

plateau, the

the

us

pronounced

point

in front

covered

marked

on

were

tribe

whose

sent,
con-

Illi-Su pass.

receive

to

that

ibex'

barometer

appeared

baggage.

our

and

little grassy

foot of the

we

to

Khudjer-Ab, passed

tails

The

them

After

south-east, brought

the

at

Illi-Su.

Se"d-Hassan,

yaks'

yoorts.

were

we

of

march

kilometres'

getting

uncertain.

the

mazar

customary

by

be

would

ascended

path

in

for

started

we

arrangements
The

succeeded

last

at

OF

VISIT
On

returning
which

the

our

with

the

serious
of

was

there

Had

of

one

the

officers

Tash-Kurgan accompanied by

who

salute

to

came

too, dissuaded
but

Raskem,
and

examine

and

if
to

us

he
the

thought

we

informed
for

we

all

of

26th.
once

in front
show

in front

more

of the
her

of the

yoorts, where

scorn,

and

would

allow

declaration

reflection,
of

loss

the

start

time,
next

we

day

Amban,

of

Sarikolis

he fell on
Title

Chilarik.^

Kharchan-Beg,

the

them
given

in

at

being

with

his

Turkestan

3,620

the

once

too

did

as

far

representative
had

fail

northwards,

way

Sarikol

not

as

the

of

the

Siyoort got ready,

dilatory for

his

hking,

nag"ika.

'

to

the

territory.
Altitude

old witch
our

We

of Se"d-Hassan

mazar

continued

The

"

pass,

dreary stage.

the

meadows

to

and

monotonous

of

the

useless

intention

following the right bank

of the

written

go

Tash-Kurgan.

passed

and

side

responsibility.After

our

the

should

us

Amban

him

gave

of

other

passable,the

He,

attempting

one

the

on

Amban^

the

superb horsemen,

two

that

undoubtedly

an

him

July

to

of

avoid

to

it

provided

cross,

relievinghim
and

route

nothing

was

of

from

absolutely
proposed

squabble

part of his chief.

the

on

us

us

it

them

with

been

Fortunately,

nothing

and

new,

motion,
com-

taking

away

gone
?

natives
it

"

something

men

horses

caravan

remarked

we

camp,

betokened

Had

good.

the

to

AMBAN

AN

metres.

Kirghiz whip.

(83)

Chinese

mandarins

who

govern

AFGHANISTAN

AROUND

died

of his horses

one

Next

overtook

justicehere

Imminent

day's stage

the

across

of

resplendentglaciersof

the

of the
wall

of the

About

in

Shah, situated

Here

surrounded

by

Gulcha

since

the

for

lunch,

We

it best

thought

charming,

was

but

in their

although
we

arms,

of the

the

river

had

much

the

in

lands,

trees

any

shade

have

to

the

and

Beg

The

caravan.

spot

willingly lingered,

baggage,
of the

ford
into

and

stream

the

willows,

and

started

we

was

seven

not

the

easy

eight

or

in crossing on
difficulty
the

jagged

Turlan-

of

seen

the

the

divided

was

the

only by

us

not

have

passage

of

swiftness

for

Father

cultivated

difficult to ford

with

The

wake.

down

should

we

"

west

the

rose

or

clumps

had

we

wait

arrived

men

our

from

were

Sarikol

village of

separated

was

to

the

at

rich

sat

river

scale the heavens.

to

of

wall

wish

to

there

and

horizon

the

towards

midst

the

facing Tash-Kurgan,

the

on

arrived

we

of the

pebbles

Muz-Tagh-Ata,

seemed

Pamir

midday

torrent.

us

"; while

Mountains

caravanbash

the road.

on

in front

irksome

was

the

account

height

of

the

waters.

through

wide

Hill

of

into

us

appeared,
*

the

to

of

stones

to
"

lodge
3,150

Sarikol, we

plain, studded

grassy

fortress

Chinese

conducted
it

stretched

which
the

side of the

other

the

On

foot

of

the

fairlycomfortable

metres.

(84)

of note.

our

with

and

way

flowers,

hill,where

Tash-Kurgan^

visitors

made

the

stood

Beg

house, built,

T"SH-KUBGAN'
had

Hardly
to take

visitingcards

our

him

in

that

he

our

should

be

pleased

following one.
hands

with

Cossack

the
it

the

at

Russian

of

the

Puly
and

its

seven

leading

the

as

from

the

have

overseer

of the

and

English

Indian

The
the
but

Chinese

and

of

sort

All

highestis
its mud

of the

He

very

kindly

lodge containing
took

to

say,

advantage

On

not

mandarin
the

visitingcards

had

dozen

very

(85)

from

Cossacks,

good terms,

conflicting.

skirtingthe Sarikol,

hillocks
kept

and

officer of the

on

often

fortress of
seem

the

There

administrator

lived, whom

other
we

roads

numerous

hve

are

strategic

its

India.

seems,

six hills

by

did

from

Russians

these, it

crowned

of

Chinese,

inhabitants,

vice-consul,an

on

in

"

hundred

legate as

native

built

walls
the

spent in visitingthe

especiallyto

the interests of each

presently.
*

is due

region,the

villageis

there that

eight

or

Pamir

army.

although

charge

we

was

meeting-place

Chinese

the

in

village. Tash-Kurgan

importance

position

shake

to

and, needless

that

morning

the

contains

"

small

detachment,

The

of

went

we

he

the

Excellencies

Kurgan.
the

that

but

kindness.

29th.

outskirts

Tash-

great delight

of his courteous

July

day

word

back

day,

heutenant

disposal

with

was

of

our

baths

the

to salute

and

sent

Our

receive

to

During

station

placed

mandarin

slightlyindisposed that

was

Iskandar

I sent

Amban,

to the

The

name.

when

down

settled

we

imposing aspect,
strong.
we

stood
our

travels

were

the

It
to

was

visit

Russian

in Manchuria.

AROUND

''''

AFGHANISTAN
Consul's

station,the British
of

walls
of

supposed

the

had

the

we

ourselves

we

but

could.

of

ancestors
not

give

therefore

to

cross

the

the

path
The

of

the

which
next

natives,

crosses

day

the
our

Russian
with

talk

We

following

and

to

spurs
men,

(86)

discuss
of

Beg

heads

of the

after

of

Yarkand,

M.

decided
reach

Tung,
his

transport,

river

therefore

were

cost, we

should

of

the

he

as

principal

the

means

cross

far

as

the

The

above

to

year

it

us

we

no

Raskem

of

idea

ance,
appear-

spoke
to

salutations,assured

by

swore

find

impossible.

route, and, whatever

advice

to the Yamen

easy

whom

mien,
should

up

bygone

of delicate

possible itineraries.

of the

thing

Anselm.

by

to go

be

coins

only
of

assembled

were

region, with

time

and

The

the

to

interpreter.

as

we

was

to

killed

nobleman

that

at that

that

there

saw

arms

look,who
intelligent

an

brutish

raft

detachment

remains

horseback

on

him

different

giant

of

after the customary

the

ruined

complete willingnessto help

of

shown

Great.

these

hare

by

Around

chiefs
the

got

Zabieha

Amban,

of his

us

in

young

would

through

The

a
we

It

the

groups

by

description.

with,

met

with

fluently.

built

discovery

curious

welcomed

were

him

the

to

most

midday

was

several

excavations, which, according

civihsation,was
At

been

Alexander

led

of

have

to

of recent

guide,

dwellings.

of

army

traces
,

wretched

very

house, and

on

and

back
horse-

obhged

Dauvergne's
to

Yarkand

follow

by

the

the

Muz-Tagh-Ata.
some

discussion,

ONE

THE

WRETCHED

REFUGE

OF

OF

THE

TOWERS

CHI-CHAG-LIK
THE

OF

WHERE

KOK-MU"NAK

YAKKA-ARIK

WE

SLEPT

AFTER

CROSSING

purposeless
the

up
to

At

who

Shah,

The

the

over

followed

the

meadows

left bank

covered

curious

with

had

us

shake

of

the

Mazar

of

came

to

Russian

the

"

politeness by
said

we

and

hand,

midst

we

charming

us

bazaar

fortress,and

When

alighted, and

after

the

in the

Sarikol

Langar

shown

us,

cordial

guide

to

Chinese

flowers.

"

accompanying
a

of the

of the

tombstone

officer,who

of Turlan-

mayor

between

its way
foot

the

at

able

were

we

Amban

the

by

wound

shops, passed

the

load

to

precious persons.

our

caravan

eight o'clock

marched

ordered

KIRGHIZ

consented

length

at

about

head

was

watch

and

baggage,

start.

and

before,

as

THE

AMONG

HALT

good-bye

mutual

good

wishes.

We

soon

reached

oris

were

erected

on

the

grass

we

were

and

sit for

to

the

obliged, in

order

But

long

rocks, brought
a

blade

do

from

us

of grass

on

pyramid
that
between

"

rose

of

In

Father

sky

front

of
and

the
of

slowly up

in all its

stage

fallen

pricklyshrubs

us

the

to the

bluish

plain, both

of

as
an

not
even

undulations

of

platform

the colossal
he

There

Mountains,"

of

would

among

majesticwhiteness

(87)

them,

bowls

few

for the

Muz-Tagh-Ata.
the

carpets,

offend

to

out

stony plateau, where

where

grows,

the

not

hasten,

bare

ground diminished
which

to

finest of their

drink

and

numerous

stretched

had

goats'-path ascending

spring up.

not

the

had

we

one.

time,

where

Kirghiz

honour

our

short

koumiss.
be

in

the

vale

pretty

if

stood,

suspended

almost

similar

AROUND

AFGHANISTAN

blue, reminding
A

brought
where

suddenly

us

torrent

In

Kok-Mu"nak.
the

attacked

valley, we

would

picturesque

difficulties of the
kind.

serious

unstable
For

such

the

to

made

fresh

place.

To

coming

in

the

at

our

crown

the

in the

hope

fallen

their

the

for

the
most

ourselves

rocks,
and

horses

that

of the

are

found

an

on

ravines.
while

climbed,

hoofs, slipped,fell,
sometimes

were

to

get

misfortune,

our

obliged

over

of

flock

difficult

yaks

opposite direction,suddenly appeared

critical

most

of

crevasses

them

help

uninviting aspect

of

we

gorge
of

yet

panting

effort,and

from

latter

with

with

rocks

to

the

chaos

narrow

compensate

not

covered

support them

to

had

hours

cHnging

and

glacis

the pass

boldly

route, but

ground

several

it

the

come

We

with

grappling

of

spite

its flight.

desert

down

tumbhng

came

of

end

awaiting

resume

this

over

the

to

kite

in order to

march

kilometres'

few

immense

some

fresh breeze

evening a

every

of

one

point,

and

put

the

in

caravan

disorder.
the

Meanwhile,

freshening, and
after

that

cold

and

showed
left

of

was

when

we

difficult

4,620
low
of

of

cliffs of

How

we

were

We

on

descended
no
we

(88)

was

Kok-Mu"nak,

benumbed

fatigue.

schist

should

the

altitude.

dreary aspect bearing

habitation.

to

with

metres

snow.

came

wind

the

going down,

ascent,

exhausted

were

patches

sun

To
which

The

barometer

the

rapidly
of

spend

the

right
saw

we

traces

with

to

any

few

a
a

and

plain
human

night ?

It

from

there

cloud

nestled

far

not

wilHng

do

to

and

o'clock, frozen

argol^

and

had

sleep in

frost made

white

the

dehghtful place
The

night

from
a

of

layer of
clear

had

reached

less savage

welcomed

in

it would

be

the

mountain

August

1st.

collect thirteen
foot

early, and
started

we

four
*

for

kilometres
Yaks'

to

this

who

The

the

yaks,
as

the
from

to

soon

gorges

growling
the
of

but

the rays

air.

We

the

soon

and

wider

we

were

we

Unfortunately,
day there, for
to

the

next

them

we

stage,
in

the

sunset.

Mollah-Ibrahim

as

started

previous day,

fetch

before

return

Beg

the

baggage

went

not

the

suffered

we

yoorts where

spend

our

had

through

fashion.

amiable

take

would

had

of

name

ground,
the

of

of

group

most

Kirghiz

we

sheepskins

When

warmed

that

than

to

the

pass, and

necessary

required yaks
and

quickly

cold.

covered

snow

to

fire of

of which

everyone

the

and

valley

down

came

bad

Tor-Bashi

the

seven

us, but

the

The

shiver.

was

Chi-Chag-Lik (4,325 metres).

been

sun

of

spite

at

fine

revived

soup

in
us

was

altitude

the

thin

and

in,

hunger;

hole,the cupola

horrible

fallen

recently

milk

excellent

an

of

dying

got there

We

honours.

he

of which

den

the

in

appeared,

it

who,

man

in

Suddenly,

on.

good genius

the

old

there

the

us

Uke

Uttle

from

coming

fog was

came,

hideous

fairy tales^ a

to

the

o'clock,and

six

was

SHELTER

UNCOMFORTABLE

AN

of which

loading

able

was

was

set

us

to
on

finished,

Tang-i-Tar.

About

Tor-Bashi, the difficulties began,

dung.

(89)

AROUND

AFGHANISTAN

and

climbed

we

slopes, which

barred

resounded

like

cascades

and

rocks,

the

made

could

not

showed
rock

get

the

him

own

safety prevented

rose,

which

if

as

its

sides

of the

which

in
The

terrible

that

Tash^

valley of

the

the

winter
Sarikol

of

to

Our

cat.

On

natural

an

out

thanks

accident.

for

every

our

side

height.

enormous

thick

little

bridge which
from

gushed

rainbows

satisfaction
the

during

summer

of the

waters

the

of vapour

clouds

quivered.
and

majestic grandeur,

hveliest

go

rock

anxiety

fine !

to

of

they

stone, porticos,towers,

was

Tang-i-Tar,

that

we

of

terror

from

the

yet
left
few

Yarkand

Kurgan.

During

splashed

cheap, and

spring which

warm

was

which

caravans

it

arch

multitude

with

was

against

leisurelycontemplating

in the

rock, sending

spectacle

it

to

himself

fortunate
un-

drivers, they

agilityof

very

There,

was

thrown

for their

the

from

us

was

granite

it

Further,

The

slippery that

really that

was

sculptured

machicolations.

raised

it

pity

scenery,

among

difficulties without

our

what

bed

slowly.

so

As

wards
Afterwaters

whirlpoolswhich

made
of

out

steep

the

cleverness, leaping from

But

the

of

precision and

got

we

advanced

foothold.

guide, Mollah-Ibrahim
to

which

followingits

pebbly ground
a

of

shaken, pushed,

remarkable
with

river

midst

with

valley completely.

we

were

another, in the

and

to

avalanche

cataract, and

yaks
one

the

down

went

we

ancient

an

the

lowness

constantly.

90

enables

one

to

follow

the

DIFFICULT

felt roofs of

The
middle

of the

tea, while
said

We

our

to climb
on

the

ascent

seemed

could

the

cross

gigantic stairs
the

see

it

and

the

horses,which

had

after

was

summit

ridge.

We

were

did

the

it,and

us.

of

down

stumbled

soon

horses

by

were

preparing

with

them

piUaged
that
mazar

after

load

of

day,

for

encamp
of

Only

at

we

foot

set

as

We

the

on

and
what

moment

had

we

leave

to

us

at
two

on

the

foot

of the

donkey-drivers

night ; they

the

had

apricots,which
the

karaiil

we

amazed

owners,

nightfalldid
whose

Chil-Gumbaz,

when

get breath,

precipitousslopes

and

melons

his wretched

pitifulto

was

its

ground,

showering gold

god-send.

hospitahtyin
Next

to

the

bridle.

the

of the

recess

they

4,030 metres,

us

that

to

that

at

to

matter

I hesitated

frequent

last

at

we

altitude

an

It

more

The

ascended

we

stop often

agreeable surprise awaited

defile ; in

the

before

halts,

that

landscape

holding our

at

and

to

many

at

day,

magnificent,but

was

we

An

declared

rose

the

view

caravaneers

which

neared

the

difficult that

that

pass

began

we

Art, already

so

and

second

of rock.

wall

immense

an

long

so

continue, but

to

of

ready

was

the defile of Ten-

to reach

yaks.

MoUah-Ibrahim

Tang-i-Tar

caravan

our

crest

the

take

to

the

unloading

the

in

seen
were

we

excellent

cross

as

in order

visible

that

to

would

soon

as

be

be

to

were

of them

one

would

men

good-bye

and

yoorts

in

valley :

who, unhappily
time,

few

DEFILE

we

reach

offered

us

hut.

started,
(91)

we

experienced

the

AROUND

AFGHANISTAN

quite
Our

new

sensation

of

horses

advanced

among

dotted

with

poppies
under

cottages lay

felt

we

heat

spite of

browsed

living,the

was

seemed

long,

kilometres

we

pleasure of

everyone

Behind
trees

threw

resist

the

charm

of

did

not

and

the

words

miss

old

in

rapid zig-zagsover

followed
started
in

there

front

were

early

at

of

we

Beg,
call

wished

and

closed, and
absent.

It

dawn

where
us

knock
we
was

were

house

repeatedly ;
soon

necessary,

of

his

around

(92)

the

us

darting

route

our

Having

towards

midday

by

the
that

three

large

Tash-Kurgan,

night.

however,

the

growing.

from

certain

skill,

softness.

rosy

surrounded

sleep that

Iskandar

the swallows

arrived

guide

our

joined

listeningto

while

sky

not

broad,

soon

place.

in

apricot

on

exhibit

trees
we

to

the

did

we

valley which

narrow

numerous

small

poplar trees,
Aiil

the

of

were

to

men,

picking flowers,and

In

forty

Bagh,

limbs

we

opportunity

handsome

3rd.

of

and

in the

persons

were

August

stifling
of

march

group

shadow,

children
their

evening passed agreeably

of these

which

of the

hamlet

host

our

beneficent

the

less,
Neverthe-

nature

and

evident.

of

important

poplars,

that

pleasure of stretching our

all the

wheat,

flat-roofed

slopes.

after

brilliantly-flowered
carpets, when
by

tall

account

on

the

at

was

house

its

the

when,

arrived

the

on

road

and

of

valley.

and

corn

intervals

long

shelter

all the

European

fields of

at

the

goats in hundreds
in

crossing a

In

house
its

vain

did

remained
owner

to shelter

was

ourselves

from

burning

standing

Iskandar

of the

wall

the
door

placed in

was

out, and

himted
the

drive

find

to

smiled

the

on

his

after
at

which
of

entered

cascade

was

wall

rocky

make.

in the

burdens, they
brave

some

becoming
path
*

reached

donkeys,
We

2,870
which

resembles

led

metres.
is

This

to

pass

the

owes

entirely composed

There

he

old

took

to

down
a

to

help

climb

amid

Kara-Davan^

of

coal.

(93)

name

the

to the

ascent
to

their

only
from

to

the
of

caravan

of

us
a
a
or

which

their

scenery

wretched
"Black

surrounding

schisty slate,

of

hour

an

gloomy, along

its

end

under

with

offered

almost

thanks

coming
"

karaiil,

we

began

again

defile

merely

furthest

summit,

were

who

more

the

at

and

continued
and

more

which

Bad

left the

horses

the

who

and

surprised

way

and
liberally,

the

again

"

no

host

Chinaman.

we

gorge,

which

or

accord.

own

him

of

rolling.

Kirghiz

Yamond-Tars
young

morning

wild

Stumbling

in

on

from

returning

speak, burglared ;

indemnified

having

once

and

philosophicalsmile

Very early

put

unpremeditated

our

to

so

quickly

be

to

in

baggage

our

eggs

ready

evening,

threshold,

house,

the

the

mountains

the

in

appeared

in

Late

spit.

dozen

its

it

stove

later
a

scaled

opened

we

moment

chickens

three

inside

door

house,

karaiil's

the

responsibihty,

of his horse

the

house

discreetlyas possible.

as

the

for

the

saddle

from

and

yard,

As

first.

took

in the

up

provisions for lunch;

find

Aiil-Beg,who

of

the advice

on

and

sun,

BURGLARY

tain,
moun-

somewhat

AFGHANISTAN

AROUND
Pass."

this

From

afterwards

us

heat
to

decided

halt

to

while

wait,
had

the

carrying
and

as

piece

one

Arpalik,

The

us

of which

in

where

The
a

3,140

no

horseback
You

may

welcomed,

were

alone,

comes

of

the

of

karaiil

only

stage, was

you

were

fine.

the

and
the

path

descended

on

then
;
some

stained

full

sky

few

had

shone

moon

along

heard
We

The

gigantic steeps

defile of the

gigantic cathedrals
they

where

milk.

rocky

desert-like

as

Ka"z, deploring

never

our

sun

ing
devour-

Kirghiz on

house

to

at

the

encamping.

were

we

partridges.

quite

of stones

remarkably

light on

5th.

Arpalik

kind,

desert

they

the

were

of

news

the

diamonds,

dreamy

August

good

there

until

we

filled with

that

was

its

all

with

cliff,and

we

distant.

evening

donned

fatigue was

karaiil

enthusiasm
of

of peony

consequently,

two

saw

objective of

the

gun-shots

foot

what

informed

they

say

of that

bottles

leather

and

While

the

purling,we

with

imagine

of

of

complete drought

spring was

of

horizon.

the

Pass,"

of rocks

refreshment,

some

chicken

third

of

brought

Red

or

felt ;

shade

the

having

"

heap

itself

in

approached
the

in

march

unbearable,

was

make

beginning

hours'

two

Kizil-Davan^

opening

an

The

colour.

the

to

forms

which

point

on

every

the

with

metres.

(94)

blood.

cry

of

bevies

valley wider,

right and

rocks, so

torrent

picturesque

most

side the

entered

the

red

left stood
that
On

one

the

but

like

would

ground,

IN

blocks

enormous

dragons,
that

unicorns

infernal

of every

in

fantastic

there

in the

of the

Thirst

ages

seized

sharing,for
bought
in

saw

of

want

the

on

there

some

little

with

The

For

from

colonnade
death

of

the

came

of gray
of

wide

stunted

was

a
as

before

us

into

outset

it

porch
playing

dawn,

fog of

real

still the

was

rocks.

It

was

pass

which

the
on

opens

river

less

was
so

much
we

grew

inviting
dust
had

than

march

metres.

(95)

this

of

cones

plain

where

prickles.

solitary land.

air that

the

till

came

we

same

We

up,

with

covered

in the
to

dried

both

beds,

dust.

Then

herb.

green

and

valley

gentleincline,between

shrubs

visible,and
2,140

the

Under

gravel, flat,dry, fearfullywearisome.

Nothing

not

far

as

awoke

the smallest

bird, not

two

few

There

blood-red

sand

crossed

of whom

one

truth, were

as

kilometres

ascent, by

black

the very

fifteen

; not

Yalguz-Tograk.

opium.

naked

we

flat-roofed

Chinamen,

two

Iskandar

day

nearly

when

dog.

young

entered

we

of

karaiil

with

Celestials,as

next

water-melon

wall

rocky

were

we

caravaneers,

the

by

quite intoxicated

was

some

the

received

were

its march

petrifiedon

burning desert, and

anfractuosityof

an

dreadful

some

world.

from

way

composed

flock

something better, a

cottage belonging to
We

become

in this

us

if

as

of

sohtude

the

fleeingfrom

and

catastrophe, had
early

"

It seemed

animal

lions, winged

shapes,

strangely peopled

"

gorge.

created

COTTAGE

CHINESE

sun

was

within

AROUND

AFGHANISTAN

of

tall

Two

watch

big

road

The

by

of

restful

willows.

their

at

the

On

desert

of

joy
the

where

karaul,

stood

walls

bearing

house,

protecting
jumble
in

front

of

those

of

those

ended

the

of

our

walk

evening,

of vivid

the

red

of

in

and

breeze,

charming

hollyhocks.
in

by weeds,
for
tale

ever,

of

The

fucius,
Con-

Around

the
a

red

us

by

bath

in

And
front
could

Sleeping

running

delightfully. It

the

heat

cast

its

was

less

was

stream

the

intense, and

calm

the

reflections
conflagration-like
(96)

placards

spells.

shadow

pretty

officer

maxims

away

end

Woods.

refreshed

which

of

abandoned

the further

large

doubt

no

with

turrets

commanding

overgrown

closed

somewhat

old

At

the

secular

walks

help thinking

We

sky

their

and

of the Chinese

an

with

drive

to

two

poplars swayed

windows

of

the

poppies, marigolds

of

Beauty

hour

immense
with

was

characters

formulae

and

was

maize,
a

house

dwellings.

dwelling of

Chinese

by

it

the

stopped.

It

still covered

were

in

had

ruined

former

the

the

fortress.

the

ceased

left stood

on,

caravan

filled with

station

not

our

visited

We

further

feet, crossed

fields of

strange fortified enclosure, flanked

machicolations

which

bridge, and, suddenly,

vanished,

the

eyes

clumps

the

trees

sentinels,

mute

plain through

passed

wooden

of solitude

for weary

immense

the

over

torrent

terror

its

the

saw

we

towers, like

pyramidal

came.

we

before

oasis.

the

kept

Yakka-Arik

of

kilometre

NEARING
the

on

where

of

flames

time

the

plains of

built in the
After

dinner, the
I went

sleep ;
Chinese

reposed

heat

the

other

jackals cr5dng,and

calm

was

side

in the

of the

Seated

on

of

the

past, when

Iskandar

the

realityby informing

to

startingfor Yarkand,
August 1th.

We

and

the

which

still

separated

plains

and

valleys

Our

little

nettle

in the

road

bazaar,
in

caravan

with

white, its

and
calm
and

of

granite

was

amused

trees.

it

its

was
men

children
us.

Our

of uninhabited
had

we

noisy

crowd

7-(ai34)

much

without

day

from

us

the

now

the

had

making

in

and

long tunics,its

orders.
to

short

cover

distance
The

to

willows

at

the

end.

amid

with
us

gray

an

its way

bordered

me

were

for my

come

of

notes

to recall

Yarkand.

market-day,

in the

dreaming

was

in order

villagewelcomed

in

the

caravaneers

sunrise

of the

rustled

came

asking

were

oasis, by shady paths

green
and

hours

that

at

arose

before

warm

me

of the

everything

pearly

bench,

to

I heard

river

brutally

ruins

poplars, which

old stone

an

unbearable

the

by moonlight

evening air,a nightingaledropped

its song.

fire-worshippers

reallytoo

was

oasis

The

on

altars

Iran.

fortress.
;

the

which

revisit

to

crowned

of those Mazdean

one

Zoroaster

From

us.

seemed

silhouettes

they reminded
of

overlooked

which

their gray

stood

we

with

tall towers

two

YARKAND

bend

stir in the

veiled

women

many-coloured vests, dehghted

horses, accustomed
places,were

somewhat

to

the

great

frightened,

difficultyin passing through

injuring anyone.
( 97 )

the

AROUND

AFGHANISTAN

Almost

at

horseman,

who

me,

holding

was

In

further

us

small

of Indians
and

return

his

rapidly.
the

and

become
then

sky

About

the

harsh

in

white.

The

dressed

more

we

in

Beg,

front

faithful

our

leaving
heavy

in

at

us

of

door

The
we

sight,and

his chief to

empty

the

custom

hands.

The

of

of

blue

innumerable

shops.

Yamen
the

find

the
to
us

rich

you

by

is made.

(98)

the

to

the

rinth
laby-

Aiil-

palace alone,
with

prisoners loaded

of

is touched

passed,

came

now

conduct

forbids

had

battlements

dark

into

returned

to

which

rupee

was

mandarin's

to

dwelling

Hindoo

bridge
the

with

among

began

bloom

stones

neighbourhood

Fortunately, Aiil-Beg
this sorry

the

way

in

broad

And

guide, went

the

chains.

inviting,and

Yarkand.

our

gardens

the

to

man

continued

the

against

anceship.
acquaint-

old

handsome

town,

alleys lined

of

rupee

stone

the

white

out

were

halted

of

wall

high

of covered
We

with

in his turn

me

their

with

numerous.

stood
:

this

o'clock

eleven

of

colony

on.

evening, and

cemeteries

the

which

visit that

Hindoo

which

caravansary,

brought

promised

in

hand,
the

by

magnificent

quickly towards

gracefulnessquite Oriental, the

We

us

advanced

sent

of

forward

meet

dark-skinned

awaited

group

came

and

was

fact, in front

oldest
a

his
He

which

lit up

sun

to

came

aUghted
out

rupee.

Yarkand

there

once

not

was

at

all

waiting painful.
remove

by

the

orders

nobleman,
approach

finger,and

from

us

the

of

large

superior with
acquaintance

WE

and

handsome

lodged
In
would
us

afternoon

the

Amban

day

next

us

regulateour

to

We

own

so

went

to be

as

out

to

smell

of

the whole

town, which

looks

like

of

stagnant water,

goitres. Just

enormous

roof, the

chief

justicewith

of the

ended, people
difficult
when

we

he

by holding

out

hand.

The

rehgion

not

offered

old

only

foreigner'shouse,

but

cigarette through
hand,
On
who
his

without

come

animals,

to

and

found
be

but

day being

his

rice paper

off for
were

(99)

of

duties

present,

his kindness
his

right

Hindoo

the

as

drinking

or

him,

the leader

paid

himself

to

was

were

the

with

of

near
our

good,

in

his

fingers

smoked

he

opening

narrow

bringing the

returningwe
had

the

the

towards

touching

lips anything belonging

or

it

the

I returned

eating

even

out

all who

one,

forbids

his

meting

interrupted

took

man

have

under

was

of

cigarettecase

my

with

experience in settUng

his

tea.

us

filled

many

entered

dismissed

and

entered,

Hindoo

melons

patriarchal air

Aksakal

The

the

whom

colony

have

vous.
rendez-

plague centre, with

transactions

to

came

he
He

its inhabitants

we

Hindoo

all the

cases.

after which

and

as

and

grave

when,

moment

decayed

ghastly faces, of

and

wan

at the

visit to

our

pay

that

his watch

and

"

punctual

nauseous

their

were

half-past three.

at

ponds

we

word

sent

Aksakal.

its

HINDOO

style,where

sheep, chickens, rice,maize

comfortably.

receive

sent

ON

in Chinese

house

very

the

CALL

the
closed

his mouth.
caravaneers,

for

his

men,

completely exhausted,

AROUND
and

AFGHANISTAN

time, he averred, they

this

As

we

at

Yarkand,

to

follow

be

to

sure

were

did

we

us, and

able

form

to

paid

once

him

him, delightedreallyat gettingrid

character.
the

family

reasons

letter

I then

avoid.

But

dishes

tunics

waved
we

dwelling we
the

moment

day

him

I owed

uninteresting
me

and
of

eat

the

I admired

would

in the

little

the

us

felt

late

genuine joy
on

fine

delightful;
the

rather

the

dressed

in

us

against

twenty

long

or

blue

plumes.

tranquillityof

our

stretchingourselves

comfortable

tints of

(100)

were

induced

of vulture

in the charm

delicate

loaded

We

courage

boys

fans

in

on

Gargantuan repast,

while

to

crowd

donkeys

hay.

to

got

we

streets,and

conscientiouslythe
menu,

him

help

mandarin,

to show

rhythmically big
returned

of

have

had

we

his

Amban's.

trusses

offered

alas !

courtyard
was

and

shortest

appointed hour,
the

for

knowing

end.

circulated

heat

but

successful

to

the

by

with

the

at

obliged him

certain

was

go

bricks

torrid

fortune,

When

to

robes,

finest

thirty

in

ceremoniously

very

the

evil

of that

Paris

to

jostledinnumerable

melons,

which

the money

remained,

him,

like vermin
we

way

received

to

alone

saddle

the

his

caravan

induce

to

which

get back

following day,

with

in

France

expedition to

swarming
our

from

to

knew

my

The

into

fresh

disagreeablesurpriseawaited

more

Zabieha

route.

bring

further.

go

evening. My travellingcompanion, Enselme,

same

received

as

not

insist further

not

I at

would

carpets.
of that

sky

The

declining

in which

the

stars

about

were

threw

its veil

melancholy
thought

to

thoughts passed through

I should

on

the

morrow

of

an

old

friend, and

departure

lightsof

the rosy

that

YARKAND

the
by little,

Little

appear.
over

IN

NIGHT

FIRST

OUR

the

sunset

mind.

my
doubt

no

light
twi-

see

sad

I became

I
the
that

at

approaching separation.
had

Night
moon

was

and

while

cooler
in

rising
the

dim

above

the

India
other

the

last calls to

Oriental

seemed

side

of

we

the

all

have

the

(101)

magic

going

mournful

Karakorum.

crescent

mosque,
in

dying

were

already to

were

thin

neighbouring

prayer

of

dream
which

completely.

come

evening air,I

marvellous
on

now

to

try

solitude

the

glimpse
of
to

that
reach

of

the

AROUND

AFGHANISTAN

curiously, those

and

masks,
be

later

in

the

moment

But

and

then,
As

made

of

sky

we

breathed

the

on

soon

Raskem-Daria
vexations

which
it

was

into it
like

Twice

the

be

by

the

bark, caught

rapids, nearly capsized

their

sound

on

lower

cottage
lunch

grass and
of

the

and

we

flowers
the

on

we

because

fields ;
had

we

of

that

drifted

we

wild

crowded

eddies

of the

in

the

fortunately

by

the

boatmen

than

more

current.

formed

all landed

opposite shore,

was

quickly,carried

swiftness

were

large

caravans

horses

and

Men

many

of which

easiest.

ferry

to

so

us

stream

the

famous

safe

the

and

kilometre

down.

A
for

heads

of

used

away

town,

nomad.

bank.

the

to

and
pell-mell,

kept

shone
live

to

the

filled with

impetuous

not
was

bit of straw

horse,

to

already brought

wide

which

close

wretchedness.

come

left bank

had

crossing would

ferry-boat

would

they

alleysof

through gardens

freely,happy

were

there

dark

the free life of the

We

and

had

limpid, a bright sun

was

resumed

the

departure

trable
impene-

wore

what

guess

depression

left the

we

way

the

of

to

who

Karakorum.

as

our

fellows

big

I tried

days

to

soon

three

the

fields

close
the

by

offered

position was

flowers,and

our

solitudes, admired
of

daisies and

maize

us

and

that

The

(104)

hospitable shade

charming,

eyes, weary

hemp,

corn-flowers.

its

fine

at the

the

monotony

vegetation,those

mingled
halt

among

with

ended,

poppies,
we

entered

WATER-MELONS

canals.

but

abundance,

in

melons
met

we

at

step

every
who

children

many

in

common

very

Iskandar

While

little

heads

their

on

bunches

of
a

willow

given

melon

it

bow

to

princesses
In

and

into

the

which

led

us

and

as

with

an

three

while

the
a

sitting
had

they

bow

just

all in rags,

almost

profound

arian,
centen-

if to three

as

and

when

thick

designs

sand.

The
to

threw

big

spread

were

of the

few

town

woman

(105)

came

with

a
an

felt

under

entry

clothing

our

consented

trees

became
our

preceded by

giganticwalnut

little old

Bazar,

Yarkand

quickly,

road

made

we

coating of

antique yamen,

elders

the

advanced,

of Poskam

of

Very

coloured
these

this man,

poor

held

were

beggar,

see

we

dusty,

Amban

into

wearing

which

temples,

and

cap

to

with

market-town

freshness.

On

to

attention.

my

hawthorns

endless

fairy tales.

more

the

in which

many

of

covered

was

alms

them

proportion

more

the

touching

was

their

on

among
as

Sartian

little

road

the

with

robes

in gorgeous

geranium

under

and

the

of

of water-melon.

attracted

scene

dressed
girls,

Consequently,

himself

amusing

was

to

horrible

of

pathways

kind

that

muddy

refused, and

country.

the

on

bargaining, a charming
Three

the

sold

was

insipid juice

they preferred the

which

it

natives

the

circulated

water

speak truly

to

water, which

unwholesome

the

there

Everywhere

by irrigation

bordered

and

delightfullyshaded

lane

guide,
give

us,

courtyard
exquisite
carpets
the

to

sit beside

cunning

of

trees.
us

face

AROUND

AFGHANISTAN

busy waiting

was

evening,
the
"

of the

There

was

was

lived

chereks, which

made

only

he

those

Now

one

all the
a

old

richest

men

field to

should

be
his

and,
sad

ready
soul

at

reality awaited

Then
fit of

him
the

hump
old
And

'

man

this

spot.

holy

'

"

This

was

such

was

on

is

true

that

Since

having

so

time

that
of Poskam

been

able

he

his

are

to

there

good

terms
was

prayer

all
find

(106)

very

to

everything
his prayers,
But

During

the

appeared.
dis-

all had
a

violent

have

stolen

with

necks

filled

went

camel's

my

from

wish, coming

long,

"

said

boots,

their

on

terrible

who

that

all who

Let

of

elsewhere,

seized

man

said.

meet

awakening.

henceforth

have

inhabitants
not

the

their

market

to

so

wallet, the

his

on

asleep joyfully.

on

exclaimed

anger,

chereks

fell

peace,

have

chereks, and

Then

dawn.

at

earned

grand

camel

are

luck, they

and

finest

fetch his faithful

night, the camel,

my

his

special

which

he

sure

town

He

anyone,

of

to

the

was

the

in

with

wallet

of

who

man,

than

thus

wished

eve

us

man

revered.

secret, and

brought

the

on

old

very

boots

was

nobles

which

the

large

the

boots

ago,

Chinese

It

to

of Poskam.

everyone

left the

all the

day,

Yarkand,

has

beautiful

related

made, better

Poskam.

livingeasily,for
feet

and

fine

are

in

whom

shop

of which

shape

long, long

once,

of that

beard,

goitrouspeople

little

calm

snowy

saint, and

in

in the

us

with

noble,

legend

who

on

Allah.

with
heard

long

an

on

ago

"

the

the

goitrous,for Mahomet,
the

thief, preferred to

DURING
EACH

THE

FIRST

STAGE,

ARE

WEEK
PLACED

OF

THE

IN

MILL

THE

JOURNEY,
CIRCLE

IN

AND

THE

OASIS

ON

HORSES,

MADE

TO

OF

BORA

WALK

REACHING
ROUND

END

THE
FOR

AN

OF
HOUR

AFGHANISTAN

AROUND

as

worms

sellers of

of the

ariks,

the

had

we

water-melons, sittingon
pretty rustic

near

railings. Then
the

at

The

Amban,

long

our

and

in

host's

our

worked

with

the

sand,

its small

its bazaar.

had

papers,

day

ducted
con-

us

spent

was

where

garden,

grew
and

marigolds, geraniums,

pell-mell nasturtiums,

of

edge

with

alleys of

covered

mayor's house,

talks

covered

Kargalik,^

examining

the

bridges, with
lane

was

the

on

the

to

in

which

and

houses

earth

entered

we

of

end

again the picturesque scene

once

daisies.

August
ceased

marked

There

was

is sheltered
a

group

chatting
down

by

caravaneers,

as

they

till twilight,before

thus

of

cups

of

adventures
The

desert

sandy
1

Kargalik

inhabitants,
the
side

great
to

day

next

is

road

caravan

Khotan,

whom

on

the

water-pipe.
felt,and

the

of

oasis

some

to

from
India

(108)

We

sat

remained

we

the

scopic
micro-

wild

travellers.

agriculturalcentre
are

corner

somewhat

the

long stage

coming
other

halt.

energetic faces, were

kalyans and

the

had

reach

important

among

new

shadiest

the

the

highway

we

to

an

in

tea, listeningto
these

the

as

to

were

we

with

fine

far

as

there, the court-yardof which

smoked

on

near

The

pebbles.

white

landscape

and
trellis,

of

quite

the

of inn

kind

and

nothing

with

desert

open

Beik-Arik, where

of

little oasis

town, cultivation

left the

we

the

in

desolation

same

as

little black

and

sand

but

soon

were

we

As

18th.

fifty

to

of six to

It

bifurcates

by Kilyang

seven

and

thousand

is there
to

the

Bora, where

Hindoos.

Kashgar

in

travel

go,

Karakorum.

on

that
one

YARKAND

TO

SRINAGAR

CONCERT

which

oxen,
side

forget

at

the

once

On

every
the
in

enveloped

were

charmed

desolate

the

and

cascades,

we

coolness, which

delicious

us

of

murmur

millstones

the

of

purring
a

the

heard

we

after

sheaves.

the

treading

were

in groups

looking

threshing-floors were

the

on

admiration.

our

natives

the

just ended;

had

harvest

The

forth

giant poplars called

and

willows

and

us,

plain

made

had

we

just

traversed.
After

dinner,

in the

who

of

yard
been

had

dwelling,Iskandar

our

in

and

Zabieha,

the

pleasant evening, organised a

orchestra

box,

other

the

played

one

used

the

The

of

conditions

fog
us

our

pipe of
*

had

as

of

which

Zabieha

means

had

which

the

as

There
was

took

the terrible

Langar

in that

oasis

the

disagreeable

returned

obscured
of

the

to

the

taking quantities

of

advantage

poison,which

he

travellers

(109)

of

this

smoked,
stop.

worst

Pamirs.

panied
air, accom-

Bash-Langar,
an

were

halt, place where

gether
alto-

way

mountebanks,

joined by

we

of

show.

had

we

while

rhythm

experienced in crossingthe

sand,

far

stage.

caravan

India.

thinking

we

thick

of

the

jam

general high

the

of

full

cymbals,

to

band

following morning

sensation

farce before

had

we

on

the

by

danced

of

appearance

the

playing

than

of

by

with

concert

way

away

music, and

barbarous

that

plates by

rather

spirits,
jumped

humour

good

tambourine

the

carried

caravaneers,

our

put

the end

important
hashish
to

have

moreover,

to
a

AROUND

AFGHANISTAN

without
was

heat

The

with

On

less

have

to

Yarkand

29 "C.

blew

he

obtained

young

August

21st.

ten

kilometres

not

without

by

the

Alas

under

! three

of

to

went

never

the

breeze

early to bed, hoping

pretty kittens,

watch, persisted in

my

bedclothes,

my

On

and

with

organise a regular hunt

leaving the

to the north

of

oasis of

then

snow,
of

foot

journey brought
of which

the

to

Kilyang, swollen

cliffs.

village

of

the
Two

right
hours*

Kilyang,^
with

Bora,

at

situated

crossed,

we

ascended

whitish

lined, as

are

river

we

the

to

us

Sasan,

Bash-Langar,

the
difficulty,

some

the

thermometer

intruders.

melted

at

nights oppressive ;

I went

ticking

I had

help

the

streets

result

evening, however,

and

heat,

play

to

Iskandar's

bank

that

the

by

wanting

the

long sleep.

attracted

expel

only

fatiguing, the

was

left

we

below

the

extraordinary fit of hunger.

an

since

pleasure,and

any

the

gigantic

willows.
Chinese

The
as

guide,

our

Desirous,
he

came

of

stars

five

or

others, who
national

Altitude

the
six
were

dances.
and

caravaneers,
1

for

2,245

officer,who

returning

was

do"bt,

no

organized

the

non-commissioned

leave

to

the

women,

At

grand

each

were

people

one

of the

present

metres.

(110)

to

Kargahk.

ballet

us,

with

all

sunset, in fact, there

going, it appeared,
The

day

good impression on

evening

country.

next

acted

at

uglier
to

show

than
us

the
their

villagejoined our
the

performance.

IN

THE

ON

GORGES

NEARING

BEYOND

KILYANG-DAVAN

AK-SHUR

OUR

THE

MEN

YAKS

HESITATED

WERE

WHICH

STOPPED

ROAD

TO

TO

RELOAD

TAKE

AFGHANISTAN

AROUND

as

best

his

with

could

we

the
his

receive

to

of the

help

who

Aksakal,
guests in

temporary

did

worthy

manner.

brought

the

We

the

under

valley

far

as

gorges
and

Kilyang

encamped.

were

same

difficult

rivers

the

of

we

previous day's journey

through

us

confluence

where

The

24th.

August

were

ascending

of

the

Aksakal

where
Ak-Shur, and, by precipitouscliffs,

of

the

Chushkun

refuge of
this

But

refuge

at

in

was

altitudfe of

an

ruin,

it

wood

no

argol fire,and

an

determined
hands

own

joistfrom

We

demolished.

crackling

tore

timber

work

saved.

metres.

very

poor
There

lighted

we

able

to

warm

troubles,

our

with

out

was

half

soon

spiritsof

the

his

already

fine blaze

revive

and

comfort

to

the

were

by

to

came

snow.

and

law

the

break

to

and

Aksakal, touched

the

when

ourselves

offered

despaired of being

we

horses

3,725

difficultythat

with

was

and

of rain

protectionagainst the gusts

being

the

in finding a footing,we
difficulty

much

had

the

as

Liam-Lyung,
now

conduct

had

our

men.

grunting
the

of

the

yaks,
At

all

when

alone

to

After

yak,

his
we
a

the

and

daybreak,

in

was

while

summits,

irksome, disturbed

been

caravaneers.

and

his

had

night

The

the

order

we

Aksakal

noisy
we

the

conversation

loaded

the
for

started
of

by

baggage,

the

Ak-Shur

of

snowy

returned

village.
started, Iskandar

superb

animal

as

(112)

difficulties with

had

black

as

crow,

which,

THE

HILL

ON

THE

SUMMIT

OF
BANKS

COUPLE

OF

TIBETAN

ANTELOPES

WHICH
OF

SHAH-I-DULAH
THE

SHOT

WAS

BURIED

ON

KARA-KASH

AT

5,000

METRES

OF

ALTITUDE

THE

DANGEROUS

A
doubt

no

and

with

the

most

him,
of

exercises
weather

had

heard

neighbouring

gorges.

several

bevies, and

birds about

were

which

natives

the

in

indulged

we

size of

the

onlars, and

call

tried

heavy,
did

view

some

description. The

comical
We

in

the

object in

that

fine.

turned

calhng
they

interpreterrather

finding our

throw

to

DEFILE

the

partridges

Soon
a

met

we

real

massacre

Guinea
Icirge

fowl,

of which

flesh

the

is excellent.
After

hours'

two

reached

ridges, we

chmbing, along

easy

rocky walls, sprinkledwith

had

we

with

to climb

ice,where

halted

we

marked

4,810

metres

fresh

our

men

passage

the

enabled

clouds

filled with

the

clouds

carrion

of

vultures

real vision

(2134)

the

must

have

feet

crows

around

loads

snows

the

by

hundreds

the

precautions
some

which

deep

In the

croaking

were

there

been

at my

of horses.

was

concealed

see

rent

coomb

icy darkness
as

they flew,
;

it

was

Hell.
were

ready ; we

wretched
came

(113)
S"

fog

to

glacier-snowswhere
the

up,

of wind

of Dante's

step. After

Higher

gust

me

barometer
this

carcasses

the

there

which

yaks

say,

in it.

whirled

Meanwhile,

the

judge by

to

taking,

were

dangerous

and

but

of the pass,

summit

Blanc.

Mont
reload

to

stop

to

strange

exactly the height of

was

to the

give rest

to

zigzags

ledge covered

panting laboriously. The

puffing and

were

of schist to

tall

by

endless

By

snow.

moraine

overlooked

little lake

turf-covered

started

through

yaks slippedat

every

crumbhng moraine,

the

AFGHANISTAN

AROUND

just ghmpsed

house

above

seemed

and

I could

which
I had

pebbles.

hail of

and

it

abyss, and
did

fall into

not

the

was

of

prey

45" which

thick

than

common

of

While

of the

two

we

rescue,
to

the

the

moraine

less

than

front,

whose

At

and

arrived
of

angle

an

the

the

also

soon

Kilyang

metres

impossible

was

the

myself

we

5,260

;
to

moment

see
was

of stones, animals

cloudy obscurity pierced only

and

caravaneers,
and

horses

at

by

whirling

last

chaos

that

to

down

snow.

again, and

by

quarters

to

attempt

to

of

the

desperate

yaks.

hastened

descended

three

birds

foot to reach

in

be

to

on

It

and

grave,

ice-bank

us.

of

the

in

above

Zabieha

marked

horse

knees

saw

struck

was

an

cross

amid

men

unfortunate

that

fascinates.

sort

half-round

voracious

yard

shouts

trampling

up

the

to

in that

men,

the

the

miracle

emotion

filled with

by

fog enveloped

further

and

fall,turned

barometer

The

Davan.

and

head,

my

problem.

horses, frightenedby the noise,

passage,

had

we

of the

Our

and

delicate

the

at

difficulty

slope just as

large

flightunnerves

us,

the

this sudden

by

raise

me

rollingdown

horse

upon

serious

some

ing
climb-

were

of stones

wait for the solution

made

shouts

Some

which

avalanches

charnel-

the

understand.

not

long to

not

horses

stopped by

be

to

The

at.

down

sent

us

vertical,overhung

almost

slope of which,

the

the
very

south

However,

we

a
an

(114)

abyss

improbable
rapid slope

we

found

soon

relativelyeasy
hour

after

path

reached

in

the

AROUND

AFGHANISTAN
; his

peasant
of
and

the

the

We

took

on

the

the

In

ibex

site of

on

the

would

his

Sha-i-

to

by

disappear

summit

of

under

raised

its

tails

yak

on

miniature

fortieth

famous

mazar

continued

we

Kara-Kash

and

guide

the

arms.

opposite

cross

us

widened,

soon

it ; then

came

of

stock
laughing-

numerous

little further

horns, planted

in

cross

they

front

walls, while

to

defile

out

we

our

if

as

water.

ruined

had

that

looked

pony

until

then

deep

to

the

goat, was

The

of that

right bank

so

as

spread itself

advantage

We

ford

tall

caravaneers.

river

Dulah.

the

horse, as

and

hill,marked

the

throughout

whole

region.
While
of

our

men

where

cottage,

in

Yusbashi,

our

by

the

the

gossip of

tomb
the
It

head

amiable

told

an

this

chief

who

and

what

know

down

sat

the

mazar

the

formerly

come

at

Chinese.

the

be

might

and

Shah-i-Dulah,

night,

covered

fight against

to

army

had

front

pressing,all
him,

to

times,

remote

and

much

without

us,

in

for the

came

most

of

of

mood,

the

interestingto

was

shelter

valley. According

military

found

boxes

our

the

from
of

we

an

fire,and

existed

arranging

were

ality
nation-

the

the

questioned

Kirghiz,
*'

the

he

Makedon,"
These

axe

English

having

at

and

in

that

the

only

1890.
time

having

traces

It
made
risen

answered

was,

left

us.

of the

occupation

strong representations to
the

the

only temporary,

moreover,

against

of

violation

energy.

(116)

of

the

country
the

British

by

Chinese
ment,
Govern-

territory with

great

THE

OUR

SADDLE

SOURCE

HORSES

OF

THE

ARRIVE

RUSKEM

EXHAUSTED

AT

THE

AT

SPOT

THE

CALLED

KARAKORUM

BALTI-BRANGSA

PASS

(5,510 METRES)

He

the

is almost

and

Macedonian,
of Alexander's

sacrifice
saint

the
A

said, to

obtain

rich

of

perhaps

widow

and

burst

storm

take

to

on

shelter,

stories of

the

their

wishing, it
in the
had

the

blessing

the

which

had

violent
time

only

noble

if

As

parts.

the

hope

pilgrims

storms

Yusbashi,
we

was

built

allow

to

these

and

heads,

while

protection of

from
in

our

the

in order

travellers

to

from

husband,

sheltered

crowds

obtain

to

of Shah-i-Dulah

were,

of the

one

in

country

another

we

the

generals

is

come

the

or

of the

pray,

corroborate

to

in order

favour

surprise the

not

the

mazar

Kirghiz

illness

an

where

meditate

often

yaks

the

and

was

of

one

this

case,

the

finding

little house
to

and

of

cure

flocks.

the

and

sheep

country,

be

may

venerated,

most

Shah-i-Dulah

consequently

army.

Whatever

guage
lan-

Iskandar-Makedon,

whether

wondered

then

of that

people

Great

the

Alexander

called

the

as

same

from

came

Scirts,whose

the

that

I remembered

but

Mecca;

warrior

this

that

then

explained

SHELTER

WIDOW'S

THE

Kirghiz

lady.
August
and

night,
^

the

The

the

up

orders

Atok
found

on

to
the

Upper

reach

got

we

meant

to

Ferganah
cross

rained

impossible

if

Indus.
passage,

and

it is to

the

Kcirakorum

be

admit
his

have
or

noted

passes

by

part of the

heavy

in his march
a

paissed into

already
the

of

India

to

which,

Kashgaria

with

towards

seen

that

traces

had

been

part

of his

army,

at

Tcish-

shortest

through

(117)

grey

detachment

join the principalarmy

rather

that

that

left

have
and

We

horseback

we

would

Karakorum

during

on

protect

valley,

the

of Alexander's

Kurgan,
to

is not

general
the

It had

when

thing

great

going

29th.

route

Shah-i-Dulah.

from

this

point

AROUND

AFGHANISTAN

clouds

still

reached

the

The

the mountain

on

Chinese
An

hour.

early
us.

hung

fortlet

amiable
he

dwelling

this

post

till

meet

we

of

The

5,000

the

Our

sun.

stage

camp

by

innumerable

dawn,

we

After

the

resumed
of

Three
in such

carried,and

astonishment
five

o'clock

which
"

that

weather,

The

word

Tibet

them

when

we

grow
Road

in

large

of the

or

altitude

an

in the

us

and

bright

One

his

own

5,380

last

sukat

numbers

indicates
near

the

Yaks.

(118)

small

blocks

difficult.

very

fatiguing.

more

of

them

was

horse, to

the

was

the

shrubs

great
than

more

pass

Animals

fortlet.

we

packages

reached

metres.

at

it of the

It

caravaneers.

at

day,

big

among

and

more

relieved
on

pitched

we

Kutass-Djilga,^

called

in all directions

march

lame.

were

the

sughet

we

should

Starting next

the

point

of

at

at

grass, watered

Zabieha

put

Little

completely exhausted, consequently,

were

the

Davan

Sughet

fine

rendered

horses

pain

and

we

hurricane, offered

ascent, becoming

our

shelter

constantly climbing

at

clean,

tents

little streams.

halt

received

Bashi-Bulak, where

as

green

stone, which

of

an

easily accomplished through

far

were

at

comfort, knowing

stone

under

blew

fresh

on

our

metres.

was

as

caravan

man

was

villagesof

surprise of

valley

narrow

last

days

ten

us

old

relative

the

to

wind, which

morning

it

of

than

more

the

was

came

perspective

Tibetan

its

The

Sughet-Kurgan

offered

properly appreciated
that

of

sides.

of the

of the

and
we

willow

men

found

kind

forced

ourselves

to

the

plateau fearfullyswept by
Hked

have

should

We

to

(5,075 metres) produced

it

that

and

roots

no

The

horses

and

most

their

together crouching

round

had

we

still

with

covered
than

more

the

slates.
were,

we

which

nose,

It

more.

wood,

more

no

bleeding at

strength

and

down,

ground

were

real

was

seemed

sufferingwhich

and

wretchedness

of

night

had

lie

sufferingstill

were

of them

reduced

that

on

grew

one
every-

we

for

dung,

altitude

high

oppression in

much

night, huddled
fire of

wretched

the

sleep,but

so

desert

on

away

storm.

impossible to

was

the

spend

to

far

not

encamp

NIGHT

WRETCHED

interminable.

September
Raskem-Daria

Ak-Tagh,

this

again,
I had

which

date

and

the

the

impossibilityof following that

of the

which

I was,

much

as

Yarkand,

We

had

to

reach

The
not

been

drop

south

was

of water

group

the

the 25th

and

desolate.

in the

bed

of the

in

width.

glaciersshowed

(119)

account

was

us

under
as

far

route.

July

in order

within

reach.

of

bare

Karakorum.

on

Raskem

it

by

Ili-Su pass,

obhgation

last

At

called

remember

will,to ascend

abandoning

kilometre
of

the

route

the

against my

point.

landscape
a

and

waters

travellingsince

this

nevertheless

the

while

at

caravaneers

the

reach

to

wiU

reader

the

difficulties with

height

point

originallyhoped

my

of the

the

to

find

to

were

we

pass

But

the west.

from

coming

On

\st.

There

river,which
Towards
the

direction

was
was

the
of

AROUND

AFGHANISTAN

We

had

scarcely passed Ak-Tagh

antelope, with
front

by

of

without

us

our

Zabieha,
I fired

wounded

useless

escaped
We

run

near

with

of

the

snow

sky

was

The
for

were

the

It

in

staggered
trail

the

it

was

pursuit.
the

wound,

awoke,

we

that
pure,
still

had
and

days

that

It

antelope

which

the

the

an

the

country

fallen

the

dried

abandoned
been

very

one

lame

(120)

very

fall in

to

of

to

of the
our

he

the

big

metres.

with

night, but

bed

there

evening,

everything pointed
the

showed

quite white

was

of

frequented

die

4,075

during

litre

horses

began
of

ously
parsimonithe

Towards

snow

altitude

the

for

animals

hunger.

the

nearly half-an-

of

skeletons

of

caravaneers

it gave

stood

we

bed

spot is much

ascending

had

very

Yet

and

at

were

the

water

unfortunate

caravaneers
some

animal.

concluded
off

pended
sus-

exclaimed

leg.

waiting

fatigue and

we

The

numerous

rumbled,

When

!"

throats

required.

clearly that

its

in

day

slowly

so

caravans

flakes

rifle

But, from

speed.

tiny spring

parched

we

thunder

the

troubled

my

imprudent

on

spiteof

that
a

flowed

often

had

in

path

to be

Yours

galloped

Darvaz-Sarigut.

water

sand, Zabieha

in

encamped

called

We

the

on

the

way

superb

us.

Raskem,

by

its

seriously,and

hour

hit it

doubled

it left

the

seen

quickly, and

of blood

"

saddle-bow.

first had

then
first,

was

Fortunately,

my

who

crossed

in any

seeming

presence.
to

at

majestic horns,

when

was

fine

day.

Raskem.

horses
in

the

which

pitiable

plight, and

Zabieha,

in

his

harness

times,

and

ball

the

on

How
our

At

that

much

in

made
I had

the

But

at

become

should

the

raised
knee
and
gave

its head

and

the

ground,

on

fired
a

of

One

at the

bound,

lay, stopped,
companion

shot

and

Iskandar,

hare

bounding

put

who
out

on

(121)

More

grazing
had

just

With

my

shoulder

my

what

it mine.
followed

aim

other, surprised,

the

alert, near

of its form.

to

me

wind.

The

knowing

had

ing
breath-

until my

rifle to

my

just

stifling.

was

however,

dropped.

not

antelopes were

them,

balls made

; two

saw

it

the

on

I had

and

rapid walking

allow

sniffingthe

was

care,

where

ground

two

untiringly.

Iskandar's

that

were

approach.

our

altitude

be

to

were

them

and

normal,

carefully. Meanwhile,
unsuspectingly.

that

at

antelope !

an

latter

dale

the

wait, crouching on

to

of

fled at

quickly

so

stretched

see

unfortunately they

into

of

crest

beat

heart

my

horse

my

whiten

to

plain !

intrepid, chased

I gave
to

of the
;

-widening

ever

body

first,and

the

females.

two

slender

us

remained

skeleton
the

in

several

round

an

preferred to

around

than

up

made

fact, some

dead

form

dark

Another

gracefuland

alone,

his

blood

have

Zabieha, always

seen

servant

dry pebbles of

all sides

I crawled

old

nostrils.

should

shyer

Left

Poor

time

the

the

on

time,

on

lodged
sufferings,

help turning

long

the

we

his

not

where

feet the

seen

could

snow,

henceforth

shorten

forehead.

for

round

stain

to

SHOT

ANTELOPES

TWO

side
carcass

Then
me,

appear

danger
of

its

suddenly
like

pleased certainly

AROUND

AFGHANISTAN

than

I was,

he

knife

rushed,

in

victims, and, uttering shouts

them

When
had

wished

we

disappeared

done

No

several

put

kilometres

still

were

found

the
of

the

brick

of

the

red,

The

called

was

of

spring

that

far

get

altitude
the

by
which

and

of the

had

we

oppression
for

should

have

spent here

of

to

horizon

delicious

we

crossed

lungs

the

such

strange shapes, that

ginning
be-

were

of the

effects

less
; neverthe-

disagreeable.

Had

evening, amid
us,

an

with

infinite
The

they

(122)

seemed

the

variety

sky

we

parably
incom-

an

on

of

was

which

clearlyoutlined,and

the

so

sources

majestically as

light clouds

some

along

were

the

daily inconvenience,

surrounded

purity, and

of

Our

never-to-be-forgottenscene.

marvellous

the

pitched

were

which

shedding

moon

hills

between

(5,040metres)

almost

glacierswhich
bright

that

that

still ascending

one

still very

been

of

night-fallto

extends

reached

it not

circus

it is

Lob-Nor.

was

and

tents

accustomed

more

alone

caravaneers.

the

which

valley,

Luckily, one

at

our

tion
indica-

antelopes

winding

came

be

to

was

deserted

there.

animals,

last

caravan

ground, no

few

Raskem-Daria

banks

to

high

and

Balti-Brangsa ;

immense

the

as

the

Raskem,

beside

the

What

in that

way

our

chosen

Yarkand,

near

on

at

we

camping-ground

marked

of

tracks

bed

dry

horizon.

here

butchered

rites.

wide, where

wandering

two

my

victory,he

the

the

on

towards

start, however,

to

was

us

of

Mussulman

from

track

could

us

the

according to

hand,

ran

formed

like

great

CARAVANEERS

THE

of

birds

of the

oaths

the

with

of

Zabieha,

had

We

troubles,

our

the

presented

much

less

of

skeletons

in

horses,
numerous

more

before

about

to the

smiling

was

rosy

Raskem,

the

at

light
earth

Carcasses

track

the

marked

foot

by

to

the

at

that
find

of the pass,
This

reached

of

memory

spot by

the
the

attracted

large stones

seemed, the

it

was,

of

his

monument

trace

of the

crime.

completely

mazar,

frayed by

the

(123)

1889,

could, unfortunately,

inscriptionwhich

hundred

defile ;

in

Dalgleish,assassinated

friend

Afghan

an

we

close

Quite

Karakorum.

heap

road,

easy

fellow-countryman Dauvergne,

our

any

of almost

slopes of the

attention.

raised

rag

to

attitudes, becoming

advanced,

we

fighting.

addition

aspect.

fantastic

kilometres

ten

the

near

came

not

attractive

to

us.

After

my

as

fiurther

faint

the

of

source

sky

with

softly tinged

glaciersat

them.

among

unexpected

the

although

for

sunrise,which
the

of this

need

reallyno

bring about

would

quarrelswhich

fresh

out

everything pointed

separated cursing, and

They

taken

even

himself

threw

boldly

who

fightingeach

it required all the influence

them

calm

undoubtedly

were

had

and

shouts

the

by

Unnerved

tent-pegs,

To

their knives.

awakened

was

altitude,they

the

the

flightover

expanse.

caravaneers.

by fatigue and
other

3rd.

September
and

mournful

of this

mystery

fantastic

in

hovering

prey

QUARREL

metres
over

orated
commem-

higher
which

up

floated

storms, marked

we
a

the

AFGHANISTAN

AROUND

I looked
We

at

not

and

were

At

bleeding at
feet,on

my

against

waiting for
rush
When

white

among

and

Our

suffered

from

perhaps,

tents

called

than

which

genius
after

to

in

He

one

valley

metres

banks

high.

moral,

was

we

which
which

were,

bad

very

reputation
by

around
told

the

going

was

Indus.

means

(124)

us

evil

an

when,

the

argol

the

story

kettle.

combs,

of this

Chudjaz

downcast,

it seems,

Hindoo, who

the

the

plant

from boiling,and

the

and

of

stream

were

It

caravaneers,

bales of wooden

upper

turn,

assembled

sell several

5,225

smallest

spot where

water

of the

old

an

was

on

the

haunted,

were

comb-merchant

evening
*

is

prevents

fire,Yussuf,

"

not

group,

physical impression

for the

we
night-fall,

of the

of

Chudjaz-Djilga,^had
It

the

banks

headache.

violent

rather

them.

among

in order

the

in their

men,

discouraged them,
was

on

where

stones

grow.

would

were

defile,the

the

slopes of

southern

the

the

pitched

which

animal

poor

safely through

was

descended

and

struggling

was

necks

bare

of the

unfortunate

prey.

everyone

caravan

exhausted,

an

pass,

caravan,
with

vultures

their

on

it

altitude,but

seemed

the

some

last breath

the

metres.

nostrils.

ledge near
by

big

some

the

India.

5,510

the

from

horses, which

the

with

so

and

Empire

it marked

relativelylittle

camel, abandoned

to

Celestial

barometer

my

suffered

was

the

between

frontier

same
kettle

such
He

Yarkand

to
as

are

stopped

stream, and
and

made

djilgaroad.

one

having

LEGEND

THE

filled

once

he

struck

doubt

got

and

ear

of

tinder-box;

wet

in

horse

which

the

take

throw

rupees

the

fire.

the

The

coals, then

Hindoo

aside

put

illumination,
He

value.

flame, but

the

fit of anger,
his

fife

he

the

except

and

even

the

from

the Koran.

and

the

his

Alas!

Hindoo

stretched

thought

he

was

had

showing

Thereupon
so

much,

who

crackled

did

sing.

not

with

missed

mental
orna-

of

little

in

things

many

ornamented

the water

forth

lifeless
died

hunger

boiling. Then,

had

no

passing

of

dozen

to

was

combs

kettle

man

writhing as they caught

water

pieces

chudjaz gave

old

things,and

dying

Two

tea, sacrificed all his collection,

rarest

following morning

he

teeth

merchant,

nice

not

burned

no

the

pretty combs

and

saw

of

the

the

pointed

saw

Love

and

his
roots

merchandise

avarice.

four,

catch

to

; the combs

sing,and

necessity of

no

certainly make

burn

to

had

neither

were

would

vain

scratched

man

feed the flames

would

thirst,prevailed over

on

in

there

small

In

ford, refused

Yet

the

which

wood,

him

wood

the

in

perhaps, too,

the

Our

kettle

his tea.

would

and

of

kindle

possessed.

-dung to

were

blaze, and

fine

still

do

to

around

COMB-SELLER
to

crossing some
he

looked

plants,nor

alone

he

the

was

THE

tried

which

wood

What

fire.

kettle, he

his

of

quantity

OF

near

of rage,

with

remained

sound,

motionless,
that

found

caravan

his

so

verses

on

the

the

old

kettle, and

because, hke

his

it

was

combs,

his teeth."

the brave

guzzled

Yussuf, tired

down

(125)

last

of

bowl

having
of

related

tea,

and

AFGHANISTAN

AROUND

blanket, wishing

in his

himself

rolled

us

pleasant

night.

the

from

What

was

tomb

of

solve

to

from

more

called

river

with

"

that

story

soldiers.

500

it the

Was

"

nothing
show

would

padisha

possible
Im-

obtain

they

had

me

pitched

little black

the

at

to

white

immense

the

length

reached

the

sides
our

were

we

fantastic

of

edge
into

came

floundered

(126)

of the

us

scape,
land-

glaciers

evening,

plateau, and

most

curious

and

seemed

slaughter-house.

with

dazzlingwhiteness

of the
a

hours

Before

Towards

metres.

red, blood-coloured,

horses

long

of the

monotony

peaks

metres.

is covered

grandiose chain

7,000

descent

for four

of which

in the

and
which

south

plateau

5,250

pointed pebbles.

than

rapid

which

north

of

stairs

immense

altitude

mean

more

to

rose

and

Sasser,of

of the

pleasant break

as

has

crossed

we

climbed

we

the

reach

to

plain the ground

weary

rose

; then

Chipchak

from

crossed

that

some

with

beyond Tash-Gumbaz,

which

Dapsang,

Its

that

gigantic steps

We

except

spot,

general,who

or

I could

kilometres

few

the

we

"

of Shah-i-Dulah

arms

mystery

site where

this

in

camp.

of

the
men

our

the

day

next

in

that

three

According

stones.

before

explanation of

of

group

buried

centuries

companion

padisha,

Rome

the

near

was
**

Tash-Gumbaz,

come

his

there

caravaneers

called
had

passed

of uncemented

constructed

tombs
to

We

4th.

September

This

the
to

come

defile

by

gorge.
river

in

from
is called

WILD

the

Kizil-Yar

in the

when

and
a

rock,

night

by high

bodies

Our

four
on

the

of

their

them

sacrifice

to

and
like

so

down

the

had

and

growing

moss

which

to

had

forced

were

enable

for

grass

the

dung

to

deny

been

our

compelled

that

evening
cook

to

us

of

towards

To

the

range

shot

up

peaks
Lower

overlapped

and

mingled

picturesqueness which

painted

for

right

sky.

azure

march

rocks, stony ravines,

of

which

day's

gorges.

the

jumble

terrible

been

difficult

mountain

of sand

waves
scene

was

tortuous

wild

gigantic

some

seemed
that

race

disappeared.

Towards

evening

vertical
cornice

wall,

Altitude

and

to

the
=

tents.
4,600

climbed

we

by

came

we

pitched
1

seen

of

tufts

were

we

This

arrows

came

have

to

and

left the

many

enormous

"

We

tent-pegs

5th.

deep

to

not

road, or greedilydevoured

few

weary

antelope.

September
through

few

the

week,

a
a

of

quarter

had

precious commodity

fuel for

brains

on

stages through absolutely desert

companions.

that

only

walls.

at

of the

edge

vertical

of

hollow

overhung

reallyfatigued, our

rushed

days,

of wild

kilometres,

in the

beasts

repair

of

marched

We

for several

horses, which

The

regions.

defile."

encamped

we

were

succession

of that

Red

torrent

came

veritable

side

every

of the

bed

very

"

the

or

SCENERY

path running

a
a

along

ledge

This

was

metres.

(127)

where

under

the

almost

an
a

rocky

caravaneers

Murgo-Bulak^

where

AFGHANISTAN

AROUND

Padisha, buried

the

tradition

asserts

Gumbaz

formerly

placed

confessed

that

be

must

well

There

the

make

is to

that

"

long stage

defile
banks

the

went

long

sticks.

the

The

in

led

ford

by

which

but

ourselves

without

us

of

the

next

day.

ruined

Seen

immense

seemed
A

at

Sasser-La

the

points, their

"

of

the

on

helped

to

after

refuge

day

river

with

what

4,635

three

to

the

from

we

that

crevasses,

metres

(128)

to

themselves

of

by

but

cover

they
the

at

winding

marked

have

not

current, they

opposite shore.

Brangsa-Sasser
which

on

skill

of the

swiftness

natives

themselves

hesitation
could

could

we

way
us

of

terror

seemed

Putting

we

muddy

the

admirable

with

impassable,
of

next

towards

accident

arrived

soon

foot

ledge

Shayok,
in

without

us

out, and, in spite of the

We

court.

built

wall

side

sometimes

water

joining us.

head, they

brought

rapids supporting

completely,

succeeded

wide

coming

saw

into

who

of

wondering

was

it,when

came

we

terrible

the

was

caravans.

them

of

China

the

on

say,

to

to

It

waters.

cross

tennis

was

position stronger.
defile

From

as

stones, which, bordering the

uncemented

itself

camp

ruins

the

seen

admirably
of the centre

out

of the

horizontal

as

be

still to

were

north

and

rammed

ground

It

camp.

position was

spring gushed

Tash-

at

entrenched

an

the

the

plateau, and

of the
as

abundant

An

chosen.

that

would

spot,
with
the

altitude.

at

the

try
their
bluish

very

to

pass

chaotic
tions,
reflec-

caravaneers

OLD

HALT

ON

THE

BANKS

BEGGAR

BLIND

OF

THE

SHAYOK,

AT

YARKAND

BEFORE

CROSSING

THE

FORD

'

pretended
places

that

if the

avalanches,

we

places

should
before

they said,

"

villagesin

Tibet."

9-{"34)

and

in two

to

us,

have

days

( 129 )

and

kept

passed
"

sunset.
we

GREAT"

in these

hved

genii who

favourable

were

difficult

IS

"ALLAH

over

Allah

shall reach

sinister
from

us

the

is

most

great,"
the

first

AROUND
the

AFGHANISTAN
in

knees

kind

of

tramphng heavily Hke

had

We

Crevasses

ducks

the

creviced

its

to

rolling down

with

from

side

the

and

which

of

the

glacier-snow.

to

crown

our

avalanches

and

crash,

of

pond.

overhanging rocky

an

base,

consistency,

further

crevasses,

had

we

the

rapid slope

succeeded

misfortunes,

without

flounderingin

reached

now

descending

pass,

sherbet

wall
came

frightening our

animals.

There,
the

in the

as

attitudes

abandoned

years

whimsical

and

four

all kinds.

others,

there hke

Our

two

the
them

from

hard

grand

and

quiet

strugglewith
The

ascent

morning,
at

were

The

the

and

the
of
it

length
well-known

most

ice, and
^

mushrooms.

for the

hired
with

task

way

of

bottom

without

again

up

of

columns

the

been

of

Aided

occasion,

pluck

which

admiration, raisingthe horses, fetching

my

baggage

in

big fantastic

Tibetans

they performed their

called forth

almost

reallyextraordinary.

were

and

in

perhaps

mummified
on

fallen

struggled against difficulties

we

men

had

strewed

had

sleeping

which

were

ago,

hours

Iskandar

by

be

to

positions,perched

looking here
For

that

carcasses

seemed

shortly before,
natural

fetid

Some,

way.

of animals

desert,carcasses

murmur,

they

have

crevasse,

thanks
in

their

loading
to

that

continual

elements.
the
was

pass
three

clear of the

phenomenon

had

begun

in the

afternoon

glaciers. A
of

(132)

eight in

at

when

descent

glacier-tables.

the
we

of

NATURE

OF

TAGHAR

THE

GROUND

THE

AT

TEMPLE

THE

WITH

SASSER-LA

THE

(5,365 METRES)

PRAYER-MILL

TIBET

APPROACHING
few

kilometres

more

granite brought
^

Yalak

by

earned

8th.

On

mishap.

from

the

of the

right up

waves

of

road^

new

where

to

again

with

redescend

heights,and
Facing

brought

us

was

mountain

side.

pyramids

stood

of

the

with
had

its
a

meadows.
Altitude

This
the

Tuti-Yalak

road,
pass
to

made
the

Nubra.

we

came

the

funeral

dark

foliage

still the

of

the

on

the

the

had

wall

in

giddy

suspended

we

rose

the

of which

on

like

then

of the

against

then

Further

down,

banks

high

before

were

4.795

of

its

Alpine

mere

amidst

Arena,

bank

our

me

granite,wound

oasis

white

reminded

and

now

the

to

was

out

We

avoid

This

march

more

green

pebbles, and

long

once
us

On

trees.

up,

gigantic

its

colossus.

the

now

glacier,one

extended

Glace,

this

up

without

Sasser

Remo

were,
de

broke

deep valley coming

great

entirelyin

serpent

to

should

joyed
slopes, over-

the

cross

we

Mer

our

made

monstrous

to

the

was

plaything compared
a

well

had

we

grassy

world, which

and

Chamonix,

sunshine

the

able

it

close

beasts

and

right opened

in the

vastest

brilliant

been

the

north

grass, and

dsiy,I nshallah, we

next

descended

having

at

Tuti-

villages.
In

and

early,

camp

The

green

Men

tents.

first Tibetan

September

beautiful

called

vale

of

blocks

enormous

spring in

our

their rest.

the

see

with

pitched

we

to

us

clothed

through

desert

granite,and
trees

among

we

and

village of

Tibetan

metres.

by

British

ofl"cers, enables

Kara"l-Davan,

and

Spango.
( 133

thus

shorten

the

the

traveller

stage

to
from

AFGHANISTAN

AROUND

where

Spango,

welcomed

hospitality,and

is here

tongues, which
It

everything
the

On

floor, the
of the

linen

As

ship.

Spango,

when

day,

tambourine
The

The

narrow

inscribed,
of

pennant

different,in

peculiar

had

patriarchalcustoms

which

and

progress,

far
had
and

its customs,

its race,

us

tried

who

the

on

of

idea

an

saluted

were

Tibetan

but

by

fife and

few
the

harmony.
the

certainlypicturesque,but

was

music,

little charm

ears.

road

followed
It

Nubra.

straying
Panamik,

into
^

at

the

to

prevent

the

3,340

metres.

(134)

side

hours

two

"

eye

left bank

by

horses

caravan

fairlylarge villageof

singularlyappropriate,means
Altitude

each

on

In

crops.

the

distance

some

bordered

was

prickly shrubs

front

this little village

shrill,
plaintiveburden, had

its
our

give

to

group

with

of

starting,we

in rags

musicians

poor

the

in

were

simplicityof

the

the

like

first

In

were

entered

useless

all

its end

wind

you

for

on

me.

the

on

cellar.

prayers

to

religion.

Next

for

as

respect

from

preserved
its

soon

felt you

you

country which
removed

the

in

house

instructive

and

bore

which

on

floated

which

war

of

white

kitchen

us

their

out

Tibetan

stables ;

the

long pole

and

new

were

the

rooms,

entrance

strip of
and

floor

ground

offered

men

politesalutation.

I entered

therefore

was

of

form

the

old

by putting

us

first time

the

was

of kind

household

of

hedge
from

reached

we

which

of

the

green."

name,

GATE

THE

FIRST

TIBETAN

OF

THE

HOUSE

VILLAGE

MET

OF

ON

PANAMIK

THE

WAY

TO

SPANGO

AROUND

AFGHANISTAN
built

villageis
I

discovered

was

of

sort

formed

masonry

the

among

wild-roses

strange divinity.

pedestal

broadly-smiling countenance

four

the

band

of

large faggot

paint ;

and

striking
Silenus

was

with

bound

with

pedestal

written, and

sticks

several

side

ears
a

of

of

cube

covered

the

on

were

prayers

faggot were

bore

branches

tamarisk

which

stripson

red

of

which

were

rocks,

central

its wide

face

the

with

satyr-like image

and

corners

vertical

the

the

to

the

on

roughly sculptured face

resemblance

the

and

linen

fixed

above

with

small

which

bore

ornamented

floatingbanners.
On

my

in

engraved
"

mani

Om
Next

guidance
lavish
which

left the

we

of the

old

vegetation
by

and

the

crops

the

idol

stone

doubt

who

protected

the

fields and

valleyof

the

Shay

The

built

no

mausoleums

which
made

the
a

was

high

cliff

another,

one

with

covered

always

looked
over-

spoke previously,

the

image

coming
the

near.

of

god

We

saw

[prettyvillageof
and

flat-roofed

houses

display of

whiteness

(136)

was

crops.

right against the mountain,

Taghar, of

represented

ok

the

were

of which

which

under

succeeded

latter

and

and

foot of the

the

cones

Panamik,

Nubra,

absolutely desert-like, others

some

prayer:

who
field-glass,

the

At

skirted,volcanic

of

of the

with

man

in his attentions.
we

shades

cool

left bank

the

to

Tibetan

the

hoom."

padmeh

day

large rock

letters

enormous

descended

we

I found

back

way

numerous

among

the

silver-leaved

tall
to

house,

our

of the

door

their

hands

in

for

apart

furniture
of

milk,

filled with

corn-flowers

After

us

and

he

his

walk

which
and

not

shaded

such
of

village;

by plane

the

silver

pyx

of

pretty

big

vases

appeared
dis-

women

guide, who

simply delicious.

delighted us
that
the

with

women

stranger

for

as

in that

thorough-going Mussulman

moments

in the

which

on

old

our

understand

by

the

wall -flowers.

was

welcome

of

another

two

of

way

front

Tibetan

replaced by

principlesas

few

the

astonished

shocked

apples,

were

arm-chair

in

paint

by

poplars alternating with

temple

the

In

and

scented

and

faces, should

deeply

After

of

cinnamon,

could

Two

staircase.

immense

with

flanked

were

with

reception

uncovered

tall

they

tea

Iskandar,

of

Europe,

final salutation

served

whole

introduced

and

me,

guests.

kind

plate

the

one

perfuming-pan

imposing

daubed

The

open-work balustrade,

an

in

radishes,

took

an

raising

by

arranged symmetrically,

filled with

were

by

altar

an

offeringswere

way,

preceded

was

unknown

arm-chair

This

she

notable

their

there

kind

rooms

my

holding

was

separated by

rooms,
set

fashion

foreheads.

of their

level

saluted

aU

they

us

front

In

stories.

line ;

graceful

very

incense

into

in

women

threshold

filled with
me

the

to

the

nearest

five

conducted

guide

of two

house

vast

were

together

us

The

poplars.

RECEPTION

STRANGE

impropriety.
pleasant far
broad

chortens,led

trees.

(137)

avenue,

What

niente
Hned
to

an

number

we

with
old
of

AROUND

AFGHANISTAN

prayer-mills!

They

cylinders turned

enormous

perched

in the

lodged
hands.

roof

the

on

We

wall

by

like

the

the

the

sipping his

trunk

material, he
in

draped
Later

faithful

the

folds

nimbly,
next

passed by

back

by

bulls,the
in

the

whole

which

light of

differences,sang

charm

of that
in

out

We

chant

the

the

of

of the

himself,and

still

there,

and

cattle

goats

brought

children.
in

Two

furious

fight
their

twilight ;

had

its

uncouth,

by

overcome

freshness,when

their

settled

with

the

stars

the

came

sky.

were

devil

was

chant

setting sun,

big

violet in the

soft

covered

First,trotting

of half-naked

very

purple

senator

sheep

band, engaged

natural

awakened
litanies

recitingbefore
poor

rhythm.

completely

which

flocks.

the

slowly

seemed

while

us

Roman

keeper, waiting leisurelyuntil they

slow

at

head

roof

of the

swarm

this

toga.

surging throng

last of the

pond

looked

old

an

terraced

rosy

more

their

lama, crouching

His

tea.

his

the

the

came

of

at the return

present

was

in

old

an

temple,

like

from

on,

with

push

enveloped picturesquelyin

seemed

dwelling

our

the

"

bobbins

religiousingenuity of

of buttered

cup

the

shaven,

of

porch

all sides

on

water-fall,windmills

simple-minded people, while

under

found

dovecotes, simple

which

admired

be

to

were

with

at

dawn

which

the

the

altar

white

offered

me

on

of

by
head

the

beard
a

tin

(138)

the

monotonous

of the

domestic
came

plattera

in

house
hearth.

was

prostrating

small

pumpkin

PRAYER

GENERAL

ENGRAVED

VIEW

ON

OF

GRANITE

TAGHAR

AFGHANISTAN

AROUND

direction

opposite

matter, and
in

which

But

our

few

the

to

the

to

built

refined

the

that

the

us, after

very

difficult ascent,

seemed

The

the

natives

plain, and

in their

burdens

led

of

that

we

should

leave

the

road

far

as

which

in

to

me

less
their

believe
and

smugglers

Yarkand

to

Leh

as

followingday,

and

hired

by

bring

September 14th.
who

vaneers

stayed
like

teller,wept

the

at

gave

him, day

so

many

would

child, and
of

leaving

proofs of

the

with

severe

and

the

forces

of nature.

Altitude

3,920

not

that

the

constant

metres.

(140)

same

horses.

two

cara-

legend-

help being

brave

strenuous

the

us

the

his devotedness.

day, during
continue

I could

the

Alone

the

to

be

to

saddle

Yussuf,

willingnessthat
redoubtable

three

fresh

were

accompany

good-bye

behind.

thought

after

life,he

the

they

night
fort-

with

yaks.

would

back

I bade

Khardong

at

remain

to

were

caravanbash, Khul-Mahmad,

much

recruit,before startingagain

to

on

replaced

his

eagle'snest

everything

work

the

on

understood

was

there

who

real

physiognomy,

pack-saddle horses

moved

deep

narrow

robbers.

caravan

It

into

rocks.

carried

they

cleverly.

turning abruptly

on,

in

attitude,and

themselves

villageof Khardong,

than

incidents

disappeared

brought

small
in

we

further

ticklish

several

score,

acquitted

men

south,

sometimes

that

on

kilometres

which

gorge

had,

we

here

was

fellow
As

for

years

of

courageous

struggle against

The

departure

snow

We

passed by

crouching
of the

looked

redoubled

twenty

yards

view

like the

yaks,

led

by

old

an

with

hoar-frost,had

and

Zabieha

whose

took

myself

whilst

Iskandar,

third

for his

personal use,

for

yak

the

horror
he

first
of

time, perhaps.

preferredto stay

the

in

walking that,

had,

spite

and

his horse

on

precipitousslope we

of

white

morning,
of

the

finding a

not

fact, such

in

real

the

danger,

in that way

brave

climbing

were

two

his ill-humour

showed

He

was

all

at

devils
reached

advantage

furious

god-send,

in

came

we

us

fury
more

poor

beard

waiting for

been

squall,

see

frozen

completely

Tibetan

and

by

o'clock

one

short

the

refuge

invaded

was

lake

the

on

But

second

About

small

backs

impossibleto

it

in front

togethera

snow.

was

away.

cold.

of

banks

the

; it

other

shivering with

the

in

were

baggage

horses, huddled

spot

storm

of the

their

the

icy wind.

an

caravaneers

turning their

black

by

some

piled up

the

and

away,
like

than

had

while

door,

distance

refuge where

they

driven

flakes

fallingin big

was

while

started

We

dismal.

was

SCENE

DISMAL

in

blinding

snow.

For
and

we

than

more

arrived

hour

an

at

the

panting, exhausted,
the

Kilyang-Davan,

and

covered

the

summit

"

Altitude

with
;
=

and

5.390

dead

almost

snow,
we

of the

fashion,

Khardong^

alive.

than

glacierwith

if

pass

narrow
more

in that

climbed

we

As

at

rapid gradient

stopped

us

short

near

got through, ourselves, our

metres.

( 141 )

AROUND

AFGHANISTAN

horses

and

who

accompanied

As

as

soon

and

of which

five

o'clock,and

down

sat

We

were

of

15th
For

taken

of

palace

of

turning
of grassy

brows

hundreds

of

darker,

with

front

In

its

of

with

day,
Our
^

had

we

old

Altitude

the

track,

now

was

the

ing
morn-

that

the

where

boughs,

small

windows

of

the

green

rust

silvery streak

the

guide led
=

and

us

our

the

way,

strange
at

succession

tiers of hundreds

upon

dazzling whiteness, others

of

centuries

on

Himalayas,
aU

cruel

pass

sides

moments

metres.

(142)

where,

the

Indus

fields

were

What
the

in the

the streets

them.

upon

smiling meadows.

through

3,525

the

appeared

overlooked

Khardong
such

wild

long rocky ridge,

foot of the

the

lost

Ladak

on

with

some

tombs,

had

suddenly

of

Leh.

crossed

had

we

the

was

traversed

we

we

it

sleep at

to

one

kings

covered

Leh

end

the

pleasure

stage

when

Built

spent

of

of

our

thought

wheat, orchards,

contrast

It

since

much

were

road.

of us, at

unfolded

of

we

ancient

its innumerable

nothing

with

end

as

We

the

men

ceased,

snow

Ganglehs.

kilometres,

wrong

the

of

taken

and

desolate

previous day.

the

valley at

narrow

bright fire

the

first few

as

the

to

sing.

to

near

the

was

September,

country

had

had

we

round

chudjaz began

the pass, the

hamlet

consequently, it

;
we

the

stood

of

endurance

crossed

rapidly descended

we

owing

more

us.

had

we

once

was

the

skill,and

the

energy,

it

yaks,

our

previous
snow

of the

village^

to

it

where
rooms

for

could

that

I had

open

my

when

In the

health.

of

chief

was

in various

Yarkand.

without

inquired

months

certain

announced.

Hindoo,

forward

with

he

district,and

explained

replaced the

English vice-resident,Captain Patterson, who

time

passports he left

by

deputation

to

pay

anxious

to

came

was

all to

the

attention

was

to

were

good enough

and

whose

to

find
The

he

but

had

he

At

of the

Aksakal

last,when

I had

to

the

familiar

thoughts

take

retire to my

had

tattle

interest

an

our

crossed

so

who

of

bid

letters,and

my

able

to

examined

business-men,

its respects, and

read

that

at

immediately replaced

was

of Hindoo

devil.

hand-shake, I
my

us,

of the brother

the conduct
also

When

Srinagar.

at

was

about

kindly

very

to

natural

of conversation

the

brought

preparing

was

clothes, came

course

required,

all

nearly three

news.

and

hand,

we

postman,

now

was

European

outstretched

he

visit

as

was

without

been

in

dressed

that

duty

; it

and

which

from

correspondence,not

emotion,

our

mail

voluminous

The

we

wind,

and

did

who

Tibetan

rest

caravan

our

stayed.

comfortable,

the

snow,

sun,

followed

had

The

travellers

very

take

days

some

protected from
ways

clean,

very

poplars,

immense

by

appeared European

were

me

shaded

summer-house,

MAIL

WELCOME

under

Yarkand,
welcome.

us

wished

given

the
and

room

of

them

those

in my
many

last

give
who

journey,
deserts

me.

next

day Sant-Ram,
(143)

the

chief

of the

district

AFGHANISTAN

AROUND

fetch

to

came

to

us

carried
From
of

Middle

the

it resembled

distance

The

walls.

with

Ages,

its

keeps, and

together, facing

the

plain,and

so

united

if

they

they

as

seem

its

built

roughly

Tibetan

monastery.
fortress

terraces, its embattled

in the

cut

flat-roofed

high granite

nests

huddled

are

south, overlooking the

the

to

had

Leh,
ponies

immense

an

windows,

narrow

are

Small

from

this celebrated

towards

nimbly

us

great lamasery

six kilometres

or

Indus.

the

of

banks

the

on

visit the

only five

Spitok,situated

of

and

go

natural

been

sandy

features

created

by

that
nature

herself.
had

We

arrived

now

sacred

The

wail, mingled
the

before

of

of the

with

in the

pious meditation

and

had

prayer

lama

in

like

god

We

his

table

on

candy.

to that

toga

into

led
seats

which
In

shelves

of

wool,

brown

shook

we

Perseverance
with

face

of the

alighted
respectful

steps

is connected
the

seclusion

of that

grand

classic Buddha
he

really looked

in bronze.

were

of incense

stone

length given

at

sonorous

we

in

Community.

that

close resemblance

draped

the

the

head

hands

hinges, and

few

their

astery.
mon-

roll of the tambourines

assembled

lamas

Ascending

attitude.

its

on

forth

gave

of the

foot

very

muffled

the

turned

group

the

trumpets

with

door

heavy

at

had

were
corner

of which

oratory

an

been

full of

placed

the

in front

perfume
of

flowers,pippin apples,and
of the
were

chapel I
ornamented

(144)

noticed
with

small
sugar-

whatnot,
statuettes

STRANGE

alone

shelf

lower

**

deceased

they

looked

faces

were

like

and

finelydone

lightedlamps, incense, bowls

of

whole

The

wheat.
with

manuscripts, piled one

there

hung

of rice and

hkenesses.
were

the

room

wall

of

tea, cakes

occupied

was

another, from

on

on

the

little table

delicate

which

paintings

the life of the

represented the episodes of

silk

on

rich tassels

on

togas

but

puppets,

side of the

one

cloth

probably good

whatnot,

of the

the bottom

At

of

collection

of

images

in

Dressed

Superiors."

Father

The

other.

the

for

reserved

was

each

beside

carefullyplaced

Buddha,

of

WHATNOT

first

Buddha.
While

we

etiquette required,the

as

informed
and

that he had

us

possessed

express

the

under

chapels,

had

prayer

ass's

the

and

and

at

Da"-Lama
to

went

we

cast

my
dare

out, stiU

visit different

where

themselves

Lhassa,

I did not

superior,to

mysterious,

prostrated

Community

much

very

apple,

an

the

skin," but

aloud,
of the

guidance
dark

of

of

all his studies

liked

"

wish

my

head

done

have

Tibetan

that

on

eyes

quarter

diploma signed by

I should

himself.

to

munching

were

old

before

lamas

at

strange

images.
Leaving
path

that

hollowed

curious

as

before, hailed

of

the
On

10"

us

the
in

rock, while

prolonged

descended

we

the

long trumpets,

calls

from

the

top

fortress.
the way

what

me

of

out

lamasery

{3134

he

back
knew

to

of

Leh,

the

I asked

lamas

( 145 )

and

Sant-Ram
their

to

tell

organisation.

AFGHANISTAN

AROUND

They

first and

the

of

holy

of his first

about

to

born

of

lama

place of

and

far-off

defunct
born

is declared

after

this

he

which

to

category

supervise the
young

lamas.

comprises
the

the

belonging
category
While

to

is

chosen
of

and

With

the

is called

be

hour

the

the
the

the

lamasery.

do

who

the

community.

and

its

to

this

reached

first class

or

coadjutor

of

is to

His

duty

to

instruct

second

the

category,

it

work, look after

manual

monastery,

monastery

have

the

Lobon,

to

Shortly

close

to

From

been

becomes

convent

the

by

just

in the
and

hour

the

at

lama.

placed

been

has

has

that

supposed

regard

monks

was

to

indicated

spot

religiousexercises,and

of the

business

is

incarnation.

is also

them

-incarnate

re

is,in

who

spiritualhead

the

the

There

seventeenth

his

told

originallybelonged,

Kushook

one,

he

still desirous

tradition

child

the

birth, he

spiritualhead.

moment

continue

day,

the

to

goes

to be

second

the
the

On

and

Kushook,

would

times

religiouslyrespected.
fixed, a deputation

that,

is

re-incarnation.

his next

those

Since

at the

that
disciples,

time, he

same

head

incarnation

an

who,

but

fellows, he

members

the

be

to

categories,

whose

creed

his

to

two

one

ages,

Nirvana,

the

At

the

bygone

into

enter

the

supposed

declared

death,

again.

is

He

benefiting his

of

of

ceremonies

Kushook.

some

answered, into

respected is

most

the

perform
called

he

divided,

are

oversee

The

the

head

farms

of

this

to

the

Shagzot.

listeningwith

the

(146)

greatest

interest

explanations given by
domicile, and

our

functionary while
pleasure he

had

September

merchants,
the

of

17th.

its

the

him

We

of

were

sent

to

him

reached

that

amiable

the

instructive

stroll in the bazaar^

crowd

of

Tibetans,

of

palace

I went

tall

poplars

ancient

kings

into

brother

"made

in

the

it

shop
filled

was

which

Germany"

and

Bombay,

along

by

the

Hindoo

stood

shops

street, bordered

Yarkand's

from

for

The

rich velvet

had

we

with

originalarchitecture.

Aksakal

BAZAAR

us.

for

went

the

by

pieces of

would

be

sent

on

Kashgar.

to

This

the

velvet

chief

consist
the

Hindoos

consume

much

was

of

men

and

women,

cutting

down

the

armed

golden

noisy activity of
In

In

this little known

EngUsh
admirable
The

that

and

the

Hindoo

broad

singing ;

who

at

first

swarm

in

sight

it

the

frontier

succeeded

have

traders

competitors,

northern

the

on

more

sickles,were

busy ant-hill,and

market,

German

fields,a

while

ears

still

town,

the

with

which

quantity.

in the

surrounding country.

strange

'

animation

imports they

hashish, of

or

considerable

goods

cotton

to

as

entirelyof nasha,^

the

silks and

exports Chinawards

in

the

with

constitutes

almost

There

more

thanking

fairlywide

with

is

hands

caravaneers.

overlooked

with

shook

just procured

and

side of

and

Sant-Ram,

strugglingmotley

among

TIBETAN

of

was

four

ousting
to

seem

it

India,

their

have

an

advantage.
sale

of

terrible

Government

duty, equal

this

than
has
to

four

stupefying agent,

those

merely
times

of

the

is not

opium,

imposed
net

the

on

cost

(147)

efifects

prohibited

hashish
of the

of

very

goods

at

which
in

India.

high
Leh.

are

still
The

Custom's

AROUND

AFGHANISTAN
of

five notes

or

of

the music
Like
of

the

the

lark

them

gave

seemed

and

such
of

ardour

the

burning

they

cordial

green,

mind

in my

their

for my

to

that

is

of

in ablutions

"

hand

scene,
*

gave
far

as

as

cocks

we

of
once

lo !

war

absence

of

seek

must

was

cares,

pensive

washes,
**

by

on

hen
a

this

quiet mind,
of

cause

sleight

temper,

as

it is

it in

the

precious

as

kindled," said

(148)

Httle
and

seldom

even

the

in peace,

Good-day.

this

constantly prostrate

family life,founded
lived

his savage,

the

his prayers
This

first of

me

to

Tibetan

roads.

them.

countenance

open

and

seeking

towards

Beneath

Contrary

says

and

appearance,

serenity is

Such

heart.

and

the

shady

good people, so

charmed

what

the

prayer,

along the

Perhaps

Two

has

He

gaiety,denote

hght

these

gaiety.

children.

or

organisation
**

road

tongues

sympathy

dirty

along singing,and

walks

rare.

laughing,

the

simpHcity,

sparing of words,

Mussulman,

his

was

joyful.
eye

merry

say

sometimes

hirsute, and

frank

spite of

gay,

on

who

pleasant corner,

childhke

reason

the

all in the Tibetan

of

In

were

their

out

beauty

Providence

I met

contemplating

was

inclined

was

man

all

those

spring, in

interestingin
I

the

could.

Sitting near
and

saluted

harvest.

sun

joo^,putting

resembled

of harvesters.

group

thank

to

abundant

an

exchanging jests,and
me

the

awakening, they

on

which

song,

from

bird, rose

sky,

Tibetan

the

polyandry.
came

fabulist.

on

the
Here

AFGHANISTAN

AROUND

their

amiable

welcome,

me

his

at

house

Nothing
a

Himalayan
for

by

us

and

friend

our

able

ancient

the

start

to

of

kingdom

organise

to

the

the

Ladak,

Indus,

through

the chief of the

on

stay

the

greatly facilitated

was

Sant-Ram,

to

24th

of

to

district,

September

that

city

picturesque

so

of

and

quaint.

so

By
of

the

monastery
of

the

which

about

kept

every

but

kind

of

clean.

they

are

he

the

small

stage.
the

was

houses

fitted with
etc.
to

(150)

sell

the

cara-

of

one

built
from
or

remarkably

foldingcamp
The

village

tenant

of

rooms

containingtwo

walls, are

-washed

foot

right

The

twenty -five kilometres

small

is bound

the

Government

white

along

inn,

It

English

table, arm-chairs, baths,

cook,

first

our

with
up

at

to

the

These

Srinagar

rooms

us

which

bungalows
ago

arrived

we

admirably

were

years

then

the

at

passes

Spitok,

objective of

conducted

vaneers

of

Indus,

the

Nimo,

of

which

fairlygood road,

bank

to

work

morning, bidding good-bye

the

in

This

bade

Srinagar.

at

of

Kashmere

Kash-

which

but

banks

very

at

myself

halt

therefore,
the

resident

and

coming

our

capital of

the

passes.

were

we

Zabieha

descend

to

later

of

notes

received

English

remained,

caravan

reach

and

the

Younghusband,

invited

during

more

fresh

the

Sir Francis
and

I had

September
from

telegram
Colonel

mere,

of

20th

the

evening,

music.

quaint, gay

On

of

tints

violet

the

in

wrapped

the
some

Leh

three
well

bedstead,
does

traveller

not

those

INTERESTING

provisions which
the

priceis
behalf

on

traveller.

these

inns

is

The

seemed

if I have
it

management

here

to

details which

practical way

wished

the

English

of

September

of which
collects
from

diem

per

with

connected

perfect in

me

have

rupee

arrangements

noted

because

life,and

addition, he

; in

affixed to the door

each

of

necessaries

are

of the

BUNGALOWS

might

puerile,

seem

show

to

what

in

know

how

we

followed

and

way,

every

organise

to

everything.

of

the

On

our

Indus

houses

of

similar

the

to

scrupulous
less

was

over.

which

of

and

in

and

the

in

shovels

the

repeated

keep
to

the

and

of
to

dismantled

and

certain

villages

sun

were

grain in

echo

the

were

regular

by

winnowing
and

the

of

the

harvest

l5^ng

the

the

feet

of

Tibetan

their

means

of

(151)

large

threshing-floor
;

refrain,always the
mountain

wheat

graceful gesture.

gathering by

gay

altitude

under

direction

of

rooms

the

were

threshed

the centre

singing their

its

point, the

ground

being

Some

us

bungalow,

consequently

beaten

were

with

the

in

this

At

Leh,

at

offered

horses, under

wind

were

gorges.

suspended

Saspul,where

Nimo,

at

one

women.

Others

all

desert

built

are

its old

reached

we

On

sheaves

men

With

cleanliness.

than

oxen

which

course

picturesque hamlet

strikingresemblance

midday

was

the

the

Provence.

own

After

of

rock.

it bore

our

with

met

we

the

sides

waUs,
in

through precipitousand

way

Basgo,
the

25th

the

On

close

by.

same,

And

AFGHANISTAN

AROUND

once

dotted
the

Next

that

resembled

day

we

which

in

long processionof girlsgoing

was

never

the

on

Zodji-La,^

of

of

3rd

difficult

very

After

Khalsi.

at

were

reached

we

the pass
of

landscape

first communion.

their

Indus,

in that

strange notes

chortens, entirelywhite,

small

with

distance

to

the

I admired

more

which

crossing the

October, by

but

road

always picturesque,
to the

givesaccess

province

Kashmere
On

defile

the

leaving

forest of birch-trees
would
of

In

the

which

the

if with

as

After
the

us

tier

rose

serrated

till

we

of

charms

of the

us, and

it

gorges,

that

descended

we

valley
stone

of

the

3,520

crowned

the

where

altitude

the

gusts

the

rose

and

at

there

turning of

metres.

(152)

marches

word

was

tents, erected

refreshing sleep, the

by pleasant stages
Here

which

continuous

not

full of life

so

slow

of

where

under

solitudes,

gladdened

now

light step, laughing and

Sindh.

foundations

Altitude

in

landscape
a

dismal

an

after

long days

halted,

with

was

Himalayas

glaciersat

vainly sought

hurriedly, one

pine-covered slopes,

the

breathing oppressive;

spoken

Switzerland.

of

stages through

fatiguing ascent

storm, during those

into

wafted

diadem.

difficult

through stony

"

tier of

on

You

leaves.

corners

glaciersof

sparkHng

the

made

autumn-tinted

with

pleasant

most

of

front

magnificent

imagined yourself suddenly

have

one

entered

we

that

chatting,
delightful

chalets

the

road,

with
then

AROUND
The

AFGHANISTAN

palace of

the

among

foliageand

all the

most

troubles
The

in

the

The

pink,

of those

is lined

almost

the

in

the

On

gondolas
time

The

and

appearance
the

end

days
to

the

with

length
very

of his

had

me

with

an

good

wishes

nearly
of

shouts

gentleman

the

to

the

shore.

large building of

very

inelegant

was

British

The

I had

word
for

go there

for

few

to

pay

Younghusband

Colonel

princewelcomed
and

towards

built

engineer.

obligedto

visit which

which

amiable

"

everywhere, and

fro

guttural

silk manufactures
and

Venice

sunshine, a
boats

river,

delightful

kindness,

proud,

He

the

this

obligatory.

extreme

in

sovereign

century by

Maharajah

considered

architecture,

of

the

arrival

our

the

strange architecture,

of last

after

listless

pearly lightwhich

in

and

to

conies.
bal-

open-work

waters,

the

rose

painted

some

bridges across

blue

some

resides,is

country

all the

fragile appearance

in the

Venice

going

where

palace

such

Sir Francis's

on

houses,

the

openings

the

time

to

paddling

rowers

had

like

were

"

from

forgot

with

picturesque wooden

summer.

said

old

and

Nuremberg,

also looked

the town

only

not

comfort, but

soon

all ornamented

played through
with

we

with

buildings

of

of

into the town

went

we

river

The

found

we

hidden

journey.

day

next

boat.

refinements

hospitalitythat

of

delightful
Eden,

flowers, where

modern

amiable

an

is a

Residency

spoke

to

France,

at

me

of which
visited

indeed

me

the
and

he

great

is

day

justly

before.

dismissed

pleasantjourney. Physically,
(154)

CORNER

WHEAT-HARVESTING

OK

THE

AT

RIVER

AT

SASPUL

SRINAGAR

CIVILISATION
he

short, with

was

he

his

on

wore

sovereign, but
discreet

has

Everything

contemplate

to

boots

and

and

17th

for the

to

puff

give
a

in

common

asked

up

his

Mecca

to

he had

the

intimacy

and

will

between

thought,

mind

of

be

did

and

which

wild

can

much

refuse
Life

daily
nature

cordial
in

nothing
This
He

brother.

modestly indispensable,and
(155)

to

difficulty,the

together.
a

him

earned.

education, that

friend,almost

group

Feeling

dare

explorer, create

them

induce

to

not

beings differingso

likelyto bring

become

of

with

the

join

certainlywell

times

during

faithful

our

to

was
never

the

had,

Bombay.

would

pious journey, I

libertywhich

opposes

via

heard

we

There

permission

my

exhortations

my

months

separate from

to

struggleagainst obstacles

had

and

Rawal-Pindi,

at

locomotive.

the

regret,

who

useless

seemed

Alpine

fine linen

the

arrived

we

for many

of

pilgrims going

him

and

trunks

the

on

six
had

hospitaUty, we

putting

our

After

dream.

cordial

of October

my

Iskandar,

how

even

more

once

first time

and

much

to

and

returning to

the

whistle

of

commercial

shoes.

patent
On

end,

an

frank

such

of

deavouring
en-

kingdom.

of his

days

the

under

and

industrial

the

develop

despotic

authorities, was

British

the

which

who,

open-minded,

of

impulse

morally,

tuated
accen-

turban

enormous

head

august
very

to

riches

of the

whiteness

the

which

complexion

bilious

MQRE

ONCE

age
ever

stranger

simply
forget

AFGHANISTAN

AROUND
all that
his

owed,

for

As

Zabieha
and

arms

our

way

towards

to
new

continual

almost

camping

the
and

of

the

service,

we

accoutrements,

but

for

mysterious

(156

to

his

had
we

packed
took

the

Quetta, thus continuing

of

unknown

journey, to

my

good-humour.

myself, when

and

train,not for Bombay,

part

of

perfect understanding

to his
initiative,

our

in this first

the

soUtudes.

Balucha

desert,

VII

CHAPTER

THE

From

Quetta
Khan

Loris

"

posts

thanks

to

the

the

this

of

Thirst
"

Mahmud

back
An

"

^A

"

The

"

ing
even-

by

stage

Custom-house

The

walls.

to

started

at

of

second

"

denuded,

citadel
From

Kelat

of

came

desolate
the

Rawal-Pindi

we

just

the

reached

Rahi.

(157)

built
Quetta

in

starting
the

light

picturesque

high

on

its

in

pace

In

gray

granite

high

the

after

rose

Ages,
had

with

view.

in

plain,

Middle

by

Kelat.

bare

over

nimble

agent

visit

to

capital

English

and

tam-tam,"

stage

at

town

diversion

disheartening

was

the

I made

distance

November,

in company

was

order

in

was

pohtical

It

that

organise

to

small

the

the

me.

the

advanced

we

vehicles, baptized by
name

for

landscape
but

monotony,

for

of

3rd

reached

south

the

the

able,

which

caravan

on

officer

surrounded

The

the

been

I had

where

Benn,

waiting

amiable

very

plateaux,

and

camel's

authorities,

I started

Major

was

therefore

We

British

railway,

where

kilometres

130

the

frontier

dif"culty

Nushki

Baluchistan,

with

Highness

opium-smoker

Desert

Persian

of the

Seistan,

Mastung,

of

The

"

the

much

to

me

by

of

the

stay in Quetta,

help

too

take

of

"

and

On

"

Ramzan,

"

Merui

at

week's

without

and

route

Robat

Nushki

"

His

Koh-i-Malek-Siah.

After

to

trade

with

interview

Baluchis

mourning

moonhght

An

"

and

the

on

of

of

Kelat

to

DESERT

BALUCHISTAN

on

the
of

middle
walls

rocky

by railway,

via

of

peak,
Lahore

AFGHANISTAN

AROUND
and

it

in

that

was

of such

unexpected vision,a strange

an

Mussulman

country

of

strong

castle

the

nomads,

its

with

even

one

sight

keeps, loopholes,and

its machicolations.

Welcomed

at

politicaladviser^
brilliant
the

of

been

of

prepared

for

thundering

were

which

overlooked

reports the
Our
in

was

Khan's

the

harnessed

to

who

fantasia.

off their
We

entrance

the

to

alley bordered

narrow

the

ladder-like

An

aide

The

adviser
India.

only

de

"

of
The

makes

"

Altitude

'

Present

staircase
of

camp
has

Khan

Afghan

in

from

in

his suite

first-class

1,890
the

and

resides

having
most

Indian

Government.

(158)

affairs

of the

metres.

horsemen,

irregular
"

fortress.

waiting

for

of

"

State

pay

house

time

at

of the
near

by

reached

the

to

the

of which

arch

shops, we

was

went

we

drying, then

in the

man

team

large gate

leads

in

fine

the

little

help

the

repeated

that

were

Prince

agent, though

stays,

of
on

"

which

to

was

towers

somewhat

front

with

"

dignity, it

state

of Baluchi

mutton

the

origin,a

British
brief

in

first enclosure

Jack.

troop

horses

quarters of

old

carriage,with

alighted in

innumerable
a

by

and

their

with

Union

own

escorted

showed

the

on

lunch

flag

house,

magnificent landau,^

the castle

to

of the

by

British

there

up

being wanting

tam-tams

where

"

little white

saluting

us,

colours

Benn
The

us.

the

by

town

elegantbungalow

an

Major

the

already floatingover
guns

to

residence

the

from

prince, accompanied

the

first came

suite,we

summer

had

distance

some

us

political

Viceroy
the

Mastung.

of

capital,

he

us, and

preceded

of

narrow

which

passages

gloomy

postern opened before

and

climbed

we

which

the

enchanted

which

maze

and

more

kind

impression

from

palace

through

more

of the

walls.

guard presented arms,

by

rocks

over

thickness

us,

still further

us

gave

became

in the

turned

they

as

of steps,

form

in the

imperfectly cut

him

after

climbed

we

ENTRANCE

UNCANNY

AN

of

of

spiraltunnel
in

entering

we

could

by

the

some

again

never

depart.
Suddenly
had

we

just

come

middle

the

prince, surrounded

out

his

in

few

on

Khan
;

troubling

about

himself
in

his

France
the
when

on

to

is to

the

statement,

of

the

customary

say

how

ornamented

brackets.

majestic gravity
without

"

added

"

for

the

We

all know

first time

civilisation,
literature,and

art."

rose,

and

this official and

I made

(159)

he

congratulated

Asia,

made

Persia

he

is to

had

what

compliments,

much

Frenchman

he

Europe

Khan

he

semi-circle

bead
glass-

of the

and

rooms,

sparklemaliciously,and

receivinga

capital,and

cradle

nothing

his

simply

and

he

etiquette,he laughs loudly,shaking

After

good enough

was

has

his eyes

seat.

walls

held

gesture

in

where

honour,

With

placed

mirrors

of

of

trap-door, in

sunshine,

guard

threshold

arm-chairs

in

us.

whitewashed

of Orientals

his

the

trumpery

Mahmud

in

welcome

cross

with

room

with

us

his

by

light of day

through

terrace, bathed

to

down

sat
a

hand

bade

we

of

if

as

up

the

then

dazzled

were

we

that

that

is,

Then,

positive

gratefulbow.

This

AFGHANISTAN

AROUND

us

in

Passing through,
of

labyrinth
in

restored

we

the

to

left the

soon

full

the

hke

of

hanging

swarm

seignorialrock.
Hindoo

part,

belong

the

to

left

The

already

far

Turkey.

question, assert
in

the

reminds

There,

of

to

notice
in

one
as

in

there

that

the

France, they

take

their

astrology and

tellingfortunes.

the

learnt

very

shadow

history of
nothing
fine

the

that

legend

of the

wives

is not

the

tribe

of

we

Baluchi
In

of the

any

in

related
an

to

case,

Loris

of the

the
words

of Kelat

Romanies.

horse-deaUng

by

Loris

studied

the

of

already known,

fortress

as

Europe

inhabitants

was

most

however,

reached

expert

are

ancient

which

Baluchi

to

the

of

are,

have

of that

business, and
Of

many

type

strikingway

who

Bohemians.

our

for
some,

and

who
are

earth,

Romanies.

our

Persia

the

sides

are,

Loris

length

at

beaten

the

remote,

Savants,

that

language

able

was

of
to

Baluchistan, crossed

through

of

to

cut

descended

we

Brahu"s

closelyrelated

moment

bees

race

stairs

the

palace, and

houses

and

curious

possible

empire.

down

inhabitants

Bunniahs

know, very
At

his

light of day,

sloping alleys, among

best

the

opposite direction, the

tumbling

passages,

rock,

the

us, with

the

conducted

Highness

pleasant journey through

grace,

wished

and

the terrace

to

His

signalfor departure.

the

was

me

ofi"cer

as

their
art

of

Kelat,
except
in

the

of the

palace.
Baluchistan

in far-off

times,long before
(160)

it became

province of
and

offered

poverty.

Every

who

The

fact was,

best

to force

Baluchi
for

in any

of the

case,

their

They
with
Their

built

houses,

nowadays,

top of the cupola

fashioned

to

will

say.

the

possible to
all who
then

he

down

in

would

putting his
the

both

became

live, the

were

wanting

the

head

house

house,

to

he

of

appease
It

II"

would

(2134)

their

it,like

buried

have

hunger
been

smiUng

in

death

grandeur.
dwellings

central

feeble

very

that
the

pillar,
a

shell
nut-

shelter !

of sudden

death.

it

longer

was

family
the

no

assembled

fragilepillar,

superior divinities
another

under

the

voluntarily feeble];

around
the

in

Imagine

the

granite his smiling descendants, whom

to

mark,

stones, and

in view

such

call upon

shoulder

died

Persian

ends.

Yes, certainly,but

famine

they

like

needle.

as

certain

supported by
at

their

help them

to

ever-expected

not

was

shelter created

momentary

When

on

as

of uncemented

point

resting
you

for that

was

strong.

calamities

God, and

somewhat

made

were

among

heaven.

to

which
tranquillity

these

imaginary crimes,

prepared

even

swooped

and

in order

produce

will of

able
irremedi-

an

striving,of doing

of

accepted

turned

eyes

to

terrible ravages

made

to

country,

poor

famine

six years,

or

instead

punishment,

very

nevertheless,active

were,

that

resistance

poor

five

the land

live, the

with

region,and

the

on

people

to

empire, was

the natives

down
the

Solomon's

LEGEND

ANCIENT

AN

Samson

pulling

brutal
he

and

heap

thus

of

sent

eternity.

very

( 161 )

interesting for

us

to

AROUND

AFGHANISTAN

prolong

that

time

pressing,we

of

was

amiable

our

from

his

back

in

the

heart

On

the

He

platform of

became

the

desert

old

Persia.

his

to

and

for

held

Gradually

and
me

the

loaded,

rapid

of

and

from

the

their
with

who

Jan,

who

big

Baluchi

full of salaams.

would

knew

be

the

guide

our

decked

on,

the

Quetta.

at

Overlooking

stature,

tatters,stood

with
daries
drome-

two

examined

They

almond-shaped
anxiety

some

with

their

us

articles

various

climbed

we

trot

towards

in the distance

What

in

us

solitarygroup

his mouth

ox-carts, and

box

out

on

eyes,

the
a

dentals
Occi-

raucous

long, flexible,

necks.

in the

landed

arrival.

our

towards

out

piled up
with

were

and

kilometres

they straightened

were,

antediluvian

was

few

train

there, further

it seemed,
sniffing,
we

cry,

the

with

inquisitively,with

and

day

tall

anyone,

rags

bought
us

long

too

November,

camel-driver, Sher

And

coloured

many

the kindness

Consequently, we
of

on

us

than

better

into

fact that

away

the little station

animated

towards

ran

was

him

7th

desert, a

everything owing
fellow

to abuse

keep

very

the

Nushki.

the

rest

wish

nor

the

on

of that

of

villageof

did not

residence.

Mastung

evening

Kelat, but, beyond

guide,

habitual

the

at

visit to

marvellous

happiness !

when
on

the

our

of
at

baggage
length

beasts

little town

were

the

last

started

and
which

stood

against a flaming sky.

peace
Was

was

there

it the

(162)

and

joy

of

what

tion
sensa-

finding space

full

the

and

of

libertyof

smoke-plumes

that

evening

locomotives

of the

seemed

and

purer

the

animals

and

dawn,

after

lighter in

the

vast

measured

the

shouts

air

the

But

only by

the

faction
satis-

violet tint the

far-off

it the

Was

solitudes,troubled

silence of the
of

nomad

seeing disappear in

gray

tread

the

CARAVAN

FRESH

of

camel

the

drivers.
At

the

rosy
in

only alley
down

Tahsildar^
With

for

already

of

the

the

native

and

of the

Afghans

Ramzan

who

the
at

was

having
of
a

evening

Native

it

of dust

life

Like

of

name

the

with

10th

to

do

towards

gilded by

district chief in the

pay

the

the

of the

(163)

Indian

Hindoo,

cooking.
the

the

rays

Ameer

distinguished

caravan

camel-drivers,

the desert
last

quite

turban

gray

November

start, and

for
old

our

with

bore

lengthy supplicationfor
down

As

besides

"

and

man

horses

hire,which

on

tall,thin, withered

seemed,

to

the

assurance.

sovereign
costume

of

pack-camels

them

composed

of the

length ready
made

as

silent

was,

Allah, started
whirl

khaki

; and

Khan,

manners,

On

wore

took

the

the

approaching

our

interpreterwho

young

indifference

royal

Shah,

for

necessary

we

was

us

us.

The

good

as

the

put

Nushki, where

brought together.

staff, it
of

"

of

to prepare

Se"stan.

is

desert

Baluchi
a

for

previous caravans,

our

in

had

been

dromedaries

bungalow

waiting

help,we

departure
had

of the

was

his

village,the

the

in front

having passed through

the

blessings

plain amidst
of

the

Government.

setting

AFGHANISTAN

AROUND

sun.

do

to

their

stage during the night. As

next

Mounted

on

to

the

of

which

morning

first

civilised

world

of

dawn.

turning

back

our

desolate

When

were

ourselves,

glimmer

that

into

the

Baluchistan

made

He

World,

for

the

to

said

has

proverb

the

the

at

disappeared

we

very

riding-camels,and

our

east,

created

went

good-bye

more

once

the

on

slowly ; they

and

bade

we

beasts

Men

region

Almighty
the

of

out

refuse.
I

said,

have

Pamir

was

closingmy

eyes,

I carry

face

to

I think
a

purgatory, the sight of which

It

repent.
it with

which

seems

stroke
be

might

where
burnt

of

his

its

joy

nothing

green

by

brutal

up

the eye,

find

the

give

and

intervals

along

drop
fortune

of
to

have

on

swept

everything
A

solitude,

traveller ;

the

Nothing

sun.

wretched

even

water

offer

we

which

moments

to

soil
rest

bungalows,
us

kilometres

800

sometimes

in

to

you

had
fall,

away

road, would

of

drinkable

is like

region eternally void,

fierce

the

land

brightness.

it. The

stage

shelter,and

summary

and

smiles

arrest

interminable

that

his

wing, taking

nothing to

placed at

in

Satan,

forbidding;

and

absolute

if

as

desert,

invites

alone

now,

Baluchistan

God-forsaken

the

backwards

thoughts

my

that

that

say

can

gate of Hell

immense

that

with

face

to

that

remember,

the

the

entrance

when

will

reader

the

of

during
only

should
one

not

would

fatigue and

distress.

Yes, it

is

really a purgatory,
(164)

where

all is

suffering

THE

and

misery,

where

perfidious soil, seems

that

is

of shadow
his

and

dark

mystery.

hair

haughty,

the

called

the

have

traveller

venture

to

say

"Give

in

is

eye

on

dweUing

will

among

him

his

his

door

"

Star."

Guest's
of

will

inhospitable and
terrible

llth.

all

day

marked

preceded

camels

has

us.

in
made

Having

under

seems

has

star

may
the

even

to

nature

estabhshed

been

Here

of

the

and

of

started

burning

track

tiny piece

attention

and

Thus,

him.

commands

which

savage

to

granted

door

the

he

be
as

law.

November

barely

closed

remain
the

men,

before

die

or

were

traveller

horizon, the

the

what

Let

be

If the

welcome."

the

to

tent,

silent,

for

heavens, looking

good

way

is

He

night.

opening

his

impenetrable,

accompanies him,

star

below

continue

some

dark

threshold

the

to

if the fortunate

disappeared

His

matter

is formed

; he

point of death, hospitahty will only

the

him

of the rock

Before

consults

nomads

out

of

with

Baluchi,

The

him

shrouds

distrustful.

stranger, he

on

is cut

of

made

be

to

scarcely malleable.

complexion,

VENUS

being himself, bom

human

the

that

copper

OF

FAVOURED

there

brushwood

that

arid

their

dawn,

at

bit

pack-animals

that

had

sickly tamarisk,

some

tries

by

ceeded
pro-

following the

sun,

to

plain through

way,

we

bit,

in

arrest

your

which

our

slow

and

peaceful procession.
We
*

still marched

on

towards

Venus.

(165)

the

south-west,

where

AROUND

AFGHANISTAN

bristled

the

beasts

high

wall

It is

the

the

The

under

features

of the

desert at

kilometres.
if the

even

wanting,

it did

beautiful

chocolate

of the

officers

importance,

not

at

we

cumbersome,

"

be

we

each

large

other,

modestly

more

and

colour.

to

thirty-five

it

inviting;

who

it of

considered

had

procured

but

how

of

was

the advice

Fortunately,on

Quetta,

that,

actually

not

was

the

in

discovered

wells

the

are

meet

of about

soon

levies live

Such

were

very

seem

thana,

Baluchi

other

the

from

water

the

thanadar.'^

addition, we

In

contains

Europeans
chairs

of

bungalow.

containing two

some

which

from

distance

foot

Mall

Bunniahs,

of

posts

came,

longer, our

very

stay, is

the

supply requires, in addition,

Hindoo

command

the

the

and

Algerian 6or^;,where

of

evening

the

for

table

water

shop kept by

kind

earth

functionaries

native

furnished.

of

of

mass

grow

at

front

reserved

one

bedstead,

camp

where

in

stone

down

us

cottage of beaten

rooms
a

of

put

when

shadows

the

when

moment

tall,docile

and

mountain,

Sheikh-Hassan
at

curiously serrated

and

dark

the

urgent

distilling
apparatus

would

useful

afterwards

seen.

are

The

an

irregular cavalry

trade

route

Ware,
Captain Webb
too
highly the merits

difficulties,
brought

in the

corps

of

the

Baluchi

of

the

Indian

that

of

started

we

head

officer, at the

non-commissioned

Native

levies

following morning

the

On

that

of the

desert

was

It is

army.

officer

important

pay

work

(166)

in

who,
to

of

early.
the

Indian
laid

The

thana.

The

Government.

out

in

1896

by

impossible to praise
spite of numberless

successful

end.

camels

with

went

Towards

growing.

measured,

midday

trot

in the

halted

we

of

large tamarisks, to the great dehght

of

which

with

browsed

and

delicate

Further

near

on,

pool, the

close

coming

briny

to

The

water.

and

the

anger

with

it must

been

to

had

time

Two

us,
similar

one

in

the

second

November.

there

of

the

acquaintances

At

evidently

story he told
Zabieha's

for

it

the

water

the

to

up

rider, who

we

as

fact.
had

not

were

if at

bungalows
spent

we

home,

the

alone

night
:

Besides, they

met

Tonkin,

at

and

Mall

the

to

made

and

the

Padag,

to

one

the

of

colony of

us

plainly
old

were
we

got

on

well.
dawn

ground,
but

one

But

were

cognisant

very

the

stages brought

Zadgar Shah,

termites

of

Sher

muddy

in

wallowed

the

out

to threaten

was

the

into

alight.

to

to

13th

the

and

other
;

thirst,and

great discomfort

the

breast,
no

He

it

ears.

seemed

terriblytouching,

ado,

more

its

me

made

pointing

of Allah.

hearing it,rushed

on

without

its

quench

to

have

mount,

the

made
he

shook

camel

persuasive,and

invitingit

animals,

sweet-smeUing

mount

became
Jan insisted,
animal

were

shadow

our

camelman

my

its neck

long speech,stroking
of

foliage.

alight,and

pool

their

pleasure on

over

shrubs

stunted

small

which

in

yellowishplain

rapid,

PLUNGE

UNEXPECTED

AN

the

where

where

the

route

the

continued

shrubs

became

mirages

danced

(167)

over

a
rarer

before

still hostile
and
our

rarer,
eyes

AROUND

AFGHANISTAN

dazzled
beautiful
and

the

by

blue

wells

some

the

near

large

drivers,tired
in

the

their

of

the

of

from

the

elegant outline

peacefullyeating
straw, and

the

sleeping
Nothing

baggage.

this

like

of

round

night stage, were

of

rested

we

with

chopped
a

thana

stopped

scattered

harmony

and

ruined

circle,were

the

mountain

since

along

left

speak,
us

with

long

picture when

them, without

the

down

at

here

there

we

troubling

hours

"

your

fingers the

tender-

more

of
thin

power

leaves

feel

south, while
bluish

tint

threw,

sun

squares

black
say

so

heart.
(168)

on

came

to

so

camels

bungalow.
of letters
"

after

of

from

France.

long solitary

when, holding
paper

tittle-tattle from

scrawl

of

much

to

in

filled with

yourself less alone, thanks

of the

which

keeping

arches, all whitened

emotion,

thoughts, souvenirs,

evocative
little

once

the

Dalbandin

moment

suddenly

of

of the

largeparcel

the

been

everything, our

over

the

followed

that

when

last in front

lime, of

to

ridge

gauze

had

we

away

moment

golden

I found

which

volcanic

fresh

And

chain,

Mall, moved

At

nearer.

you

hke

sleep.

The

our

in

doubt

no

approached,

set

tall tamarisks

shade

disturbed

had

allowance

meagre

the

near

caravan

camels, arranged

their

horizon

continually folding

were

halted

we

the

on

themselves.

midday

Karodak.

which

lakes

unfolding

At

showed

and

sun,

those
a

home,
to

the

silent

friend's

OUR

TWO

RIDING

PIGEON-COT

CAMELS

AT

IN

THE

NUSHKI

SHADE

OF

THE

TAMARISK

SLAVE

decided

We

of

in

the

men,

our

seeinghim

without

pointed him

head.

in my

him

send

to

struck

useless.

little

fingerwhile

Ramzan
exhausted

could
And

his

there

much

and

that

was

Nushki, asking
dose

of

clearlyexplained
fatal

the

intoxication
his

is

daily ration

paralysed, helpless,
would

telegram

that

wretch

provision of

was,

the

moment,

which
indisposition

whose

he

his

shaking

enormous

live without

not

very

of

thus

smokers

all

the

sudden
was

the elbow

the poor

perspective

not

go,

devil would

caused

not

not

me

anxiety.

The

replace Ramzan,
Dustok.

I
us

to

boy

of

Our

cook

was

taking

him

young

accepted.
think

of

therefore, remain

under

who

him

would

send

opportunity,
lamp

unless

that

Dalbandin

of

Sub-Tahsildar

which

Tahsildar

of the

passing

at that

up

down

remained

on

me

possiblean

lain

was

his

Nevertheless

either

like

with

came

strength.

he

touched

as

reason

he

I feared

ill for

others

Jan

to the

had

poison.

go

had

Sher

soon

like

complete,

and

their

recover

the

OPIUM
Dalbandin

at

Ramzan,

telegram

down

and

drug,
of

as

He

me.

out

name

The

opium.

me

sending

to

steward

postmaster, who

The

put before

had

to

men,

day

motionless, silent, downcast.

there,

and

whole

from

apart

corner

and

all,beasts

to enable

One

spend

to

TO

had

the
back

he

more

(169)

me,

twelve,

named

decidedly

further

care

of

to

Nushki

expired
no

offered

for

oil.

the

want

he

to

too

would,

postmaster,
on

the
of

first

opium,

AROUND

AFGHANISTAN
Dustok's

Young

and
intelligent

seemed

perhaps, than
we

knowledge

the

perfect cook,

But

where

His

pilgrimage

doubt,

procure

hirn

for us,

we

little black

his

say

of

good-bye

to

sky-blue
in

young

servant

boy, who

for he

it

and

time

was

camels

were

pebbles

of the

We

reached

dried-up
water

at

silver
was

rapid

natives

Dalbandin
wish

to
not

us

to

go

legs,wearing
The

band.

there

to

resplendent in

his

also

was

said

bleu"

cordon

buttons, fitted

to

his

climbing the heavens,

final
trot

and

salaam

the

among

the
dark

road.
the

Shakal

then

note

is

forms

the

the

way

they
the

edge

Sotag station, where

rivers,
;

the

station, on

terriblysalt.

on

south-west

which

sun

start.

waterless

to

of

gold

now

as

few

thin

was

was

to

of the wells

those

group

off

river ;

particularto

north

the

figure. But

slender

of

with

our

"

the

his

on

no

fast,I fear.

bungalow

adorned

the

turban

would,

himself, delighted

gunner's jacket,with

the

of

inventive

Paradise

population

front

cap

brother

elder

Lenten

there, standing

further,was

in

daybreak,

Ramzan

God-speed.

place

whole

in

assembled

were

At

the

formed

which

better

observe

to

17th.

November

the

Mecca

to

the

Iskandar,

was

ingenious companion,

disentangler?
had

better,

was

culinary science against which

vague

powerless.

were

that

willing:

very

he

great, but

not

was

all

There

of

which

rise in the
frontier

(170)

of

the

nothing

was

except the

of

occurrence

flow

high

from

volcanic

Afghanistan,

AROUND

AFGHANISTAN

Shah

the

interpreterand

useless
nor
so

scour

much

that I had

try

bed

loudness, and

when

Ameer
last

it

Shah

that

breath,

There
die

the

for the

death

no

words

soothe
The

from

have

Alas

everything

of

consolation

last

night

was

of the

alone
are

could

that

did

his

his servants

that

amid

death

dismal

know

farewell

friend's

be

not

time, on

to

the

the

to

thin

stars

crescent

strangelyserrated

the

heard

calm

and

hemmed

which

people belonging

suite, who

from

despairing,with

and

wonderful

appeared
by

my

moments.

mountain

close

from

the

on

tents

reached

just drawn

more

of the
the

was

good night,

everybody.

numbers,

of

crisis

master.

scintillated in countless
moon

less,and

I learned

!
had

and

or

verandah

bungalow,

poor

groaning

the

sobs

came

lugubriously sad,

more

the

both

of their

fire

decreasing

something heart-rending in

thus, alone, in

end

that

the sobs

light a

were

groans

fellow

poor

fectly
per-

him

think

two

the

hear

by prolonged

that

was

no

to

should

and

desert,far

I should

nightmare

neither

placed under

began
we

boy,

engineer was

fact,the

followed

cry

weeping

that

Was

ears.

In

the

could

unhappy

my

sleep.

to

passing,and

to

The

thought, perhaps, that

could
in

who

persons,

pot.

Dustok

us

the

the

yet know

round.

In

laughter and

unfortunate

that

he

the

great journey

As

had

crest

the

singing

engineer's
gone,

where

no

but

guides

required.
November

I9th.

knew

(172)

that

several

English

PACK-CAMELS

OUR

LARGE

CARAVAN

IN

HAD

FRONT

STOPPED

OF

THE

AT

"

THE

"

THANA

KARODAK

OF

TRATOH

WELL

topographists
plans, and

that

that

our

that

place

The
narrow

out

rivers, with

up

six

fortune

godsend

and

decided

we

verdure

Hfe.

the

giant Dustok

Ameer
the

Shah
moist

at

one

which

he

lighted;

the

had

he

placed

inhalation
no

more

take

sickly

five

by

that

was

of

at

put

the

he

was

made

centimetres
a

pinch

other

smoke.

warm

of,

suspicion

ten

him

hps

or

was

which

corner

of

cigarettepaper,

end,

Our
had

in

tobacco,
on

and

the

made

interpreter,
just invented

desert-pipe.

When

we

started

again,it was
(173)

of

long,

then, stretching himself

his

the

even

advantage

strange work

saw

like

busy preparing the fire.

was
a

and

had

Jan

that

little tunnel

of which

long

who

sand

about

end

ground,
a

set

middle

dried-

trees

branches

to

there

where

and

While

long

in

halt

to

the

well, shaded

bound

fresh, and

almost

their

were

we

Sher

built,

got lower,

numerous

palm

midday

is

Baruch, shaped
still

were

discover

to

thana

plain,in

Gat

the

miles

of rock

walls

dwarf

few

trees, with

date

There

Towards

tamarisks.

good

the

of

rock

table.

gigantic

in the

out

three

Merui

immense

an

the

stood

which

on

about

the

which

across

came

we

for

cutting widened,

the

set

we

leaving

morning.

first ascended

gorge,

and
of

of the

thought

there, and

death,

and

making

informed,

been

unnecessary

of desolation

path

then

was

neighbourhood

the

had

they

presence

freshness

early

in

were

INVENTION

SMOKER'S

still for the remainder

AROUND
of

AFGHANISTAN

the

before

mournful

did

sunset

Shah

of

the

day

of

river, one

the

To

the

north

of

the

Koh-i-Naru

under

we

the

the

on

most

important

our

covered

with
the

track,

and

worse

black

chain

frontier

began

sight gave

bring

Nushki

We

side
metres

For

dunes

of

of

the

that

like

and

that

the

goal
would

step
since

sand

great

Persian

was

every

moving

were

the

us

first time

looked

plain,they

left

we

scattered

heaps

enormous

in

now

dunes

sight of Tratoh,

the

of

smell

have
to

the

the

of the

water

sulphur,

shape

north

of

they

are

it.

high.

(174)

not

objective of

well,which

horse-shoe

the

totally

was

refused

themselves

camels

is turned

the

becoming

horizon,

going, and

nearer.

stage. There,

The

strength, for

we

tion
vegeta-

of which

some

the

of

was

along

above

which

rest

completely

was

front

In

away

animals,

stony,

extends

were

met

were

strong

The

we

far

traces

no

camels,

appear

fresh

dark

wheat.

the

it

we

the

over

to

which

towards
now

which

us

had

group

Koh-i-Sultan.

their
that

and

Amuri

watershed.

day's

for

their feet.

already dragging

the

the

after

hard

for the

worse

volcanic

brother

stones, and
very

the

volcanic

ground

of

in

Not

bungalow

north-west,

exacted
over

of the

enormous

November,

way

desert.

banks

the

to

camel-drivers

of

the

the

saw

of

21st

resumed

built

purple clouds, its twin

On

barren

in front

aUght

we

Sandan,

and

more

undrinkable.

The

of

out

gave

which
than

day

next

the
six

convex

to

eight

ZABIEHA

SUPERINTENDS

BALUCHI

FLOCK

THE

DISTILLING

APPARATUS

AROUND

AFGHANISTAN

Koh-i-Tuftan

Koh-i-Sultan

seemed

the

on

west,

took

the

sky,

which

softest

to

Not

when

and

his

the

bottles

our

The

the
halt

the

Our

country

thanadar,

the necessary
1

than

Altitude

itinerary across

to

us

in

liquidfor
metres.

four

wall
o'clock

Nok-Kundi;^
out,
of

and

Mashki

at

last to
:

the

Shah

there

and
the

by

drinkable

find

wells

and

Nok-Kundi

Baluchistan.

(176)

two

station,

gave

purgative.
one

the

at

spite of everything, to

tea

will,

shelter

to

provision of only

alembic, seconded
us,

at

us

Tratoh,

at

atrociously salt

was

620

of

the

vain

was

grew

full.

hoped
hope

enabled

pieces

quickly brought

worse

brought

that

and

shrub,

At

bungalow

remained

one

the

sharp

little stone

up.

was

was

caravaneers

But

water

orange,

with

had,

we

only

day's stage, with

litres of water,

water.

the

immense

roasted

sun
came

rays,

of

there

only

the

to

an

smallest

hurriedly put

front

next

where

with

longer

no

the

not

where

burning

water

across

strewn

distillingapparatus

for the

speck,

mere

scoriae,pumice-stone,

midday

Jan
in

were

we

plain

Sher

that

streaks
towards

contrast

marched

bush,

the

from

us

with

bare

in that

We

plateau,

but

lava.

distance

cloud,

marked

long

sulphur-yellow changed

22nd.

dark-coloured

of

in

of the

green.

November

pebbles,

in the

iridescent

tints, in

from

then

and

enveloped

Alone

little rosy

be

to

mist.

of blood-coloured

the

right the imposing mass

have

cooking.
was

the

lowest

point

in

our

^^-%^""Ui^

AMEER

SHAH

OUR

ONE

INTERPRETER

OF

THE

AND

BUNGALOWS

DUSTOK

OX

OUR

THE

ROAD

ON

BOY,

SAINDAK

THEIR

MOUNTS

WELCOME
When
rain

awoke

we

after

welcomed

We

bungalow.

The

route,

more

small

rocky defiles,then

could

easilybe

few

into

the

peaks
sun

immense

here

rose

light gave

an

seemed

have

and

to

of

with
It
the

at

the

had

separated
the

old

exist

not

If

only

did

not

the

the

two

the

The

ia-("34)

on

bottles

oppressive

leave

driver

us

heat

post that

little

caravan

of coal.

station,

soft

the

came

The

pleasant

rain,

morning

foreground, and
contrast

strong

in that

long distance,

tree,

nor

drop

In

way

very

the

midday

evening

started

of

did
!

water

by preceding stages,
any

of distilled water;
of

where

Humma"

Sixty-fivekilometres

exhausted
the

of

knelt

Jan asserted, there

Sher
a

camels

our

bungalow

Amalaf,and

camels,

heaps

landscape which

in

when

o'clock

shelter,nor

leave

take

to

which

dark-coloured

the

were

already arrived.

camel

cones

purity.

little

from

us

of

hues

distance

two

of the

by

three

mole-hills.

the

to

badly

was

suddenly

high
giant

washed

violet

and

the

cooler

Humma"

fresh

breeze

of infinite

baggage

so

like

been

the

door

rocks,

there

and

nearly

was

Post

where

tints in the

sky

the

exquisite tone

which

the bluish

enormous

plain

bright, the

was

It

among

for

tall

two

of

first crossed

wound

before

kilometres

of

panes

prospect

uneven,

mistaken

passed between

we

window

the

the

November,

refreshing downpour.

that

wanted.

of

25th

the

beating against

was

air

the

on

RAIN

at

( 177 )

sun,

case,
and
we

we

to
were

were

avoid
to

after sunset.

nine

o'clock

in dismal

AFGHANISTAN

AROUND
weather.

Outside

flew

over

the

and

the

and

of

shook, making

all mounted

us

always

not

was

lost

our

I ordered

morning
kindled

sky

which

at

we

fatigued;
of the

closing my

eyes,

through

which

of the dawn
now

went

cold wind
arrives

climbed

started

advanced

cold
up

blew,

was

the

under

prevented
under

the

I waited

much

kindly

noise

me

like
from

blankets,

the

coming

season.

long glacis,overlooked
( 178 )

more

pileof dry wood,

with

late at that

stopped

We

Everyone

sleep

down

for that

we

ground.

ruminated
the

the

in

all sat

we

now

near

and, curled

the

that

me,

to

we

therefore,

men,

and

we

fire.

set

and

o'clock

o'clock

horizontal

track

the

but

benumbed
fearfully
The

two

morning,

for

station

darkness,

one

were

wind.

camels, which
As

we

At

once

castenets.

We

At

clear,and

Zabieha

faced

and
the

sand,

brushwood,

almost

an

tempest

cracklingflame, thankful

the

towards

more

eye

of

almost

was

quickly over

to

in the

times.

comfort.

of

moment

once

follow

halt

large fire

around
pell-mell

the

of

cold, lashing

the

by

to

easy

several

way

which

the watch-tower

from

dunes

high

among

the

animals

our

camel-driver

hurricane.

guided

unpleasing

stormy night.

Nevertheless, we
the

south,

shrill note

whistling of

the

by

lighthouseon

their

uttered

imagined yourselfin

have

would

you

the

to

course

clouds

There, in that littlehouse the window

accompanied

was

mad

frightened camels

creaked

black

raged, long

their

in

sky

lugubrious cries.
panes

wind

the

by

WE

SUDDENLY

FOUND
WITH

THE

CUSTOMS

THE

STATION

FACE

OURSELVES

DEPRESSION

GOD-I-ZIREH

OF

KOH-I-MALEK-SIAH

TO

FACE
IN

ON

WITH

THE

THE

DISTANCE

THE

PERSIAN

AFGHAN

PLAIN

FRONTIER

AROUND

AFGHANISTAN
in

where,

shelter

spiteof everything, we
such

after

stage.

the

Overhanging

the

to

and

rock

there, the postmaster

After
and

wild

resumed

way

rocks,

we

it

more

but

the

was

chaotic

our

then

and

away,

where

desert

gullied,surrounded

ridges;

the

the

found

we

of

depression
station

the
on

spur

of

camels

in

and

life,

the

mountains

sank

of

haze

lay scarcely visible

spite

bare

at

gigantic basin

of that

on

the

going towards

now

reached,
built

yellowish

distant

In

road, we

overlooking

the

were

there

Kirtaka,

vegetation

Once

suddenly facing

lost

God-i-Zireh.

difficulties of the

Se"stan.

towards
of

neighbouring

their innumerable

was

of which

bottom

in the

goats

ourselves

The

tint.

rosy

found

the caravaneers,

by

changed,

scene

be

me.

north-west, along the edge

the

at

to

Saindak.

hills,
argillaceous
strangely

with

us

Afghan plain, which

strange

crystal are

void

desert

with

it is called

into

informed

occupied in hunting

English

days' rest, demanded

two

mountain

south-east

the

Sahi-Dag,^ corrupted by
antimony,

black

station, a

precipitousslopes,rose

Lead,

find

pleased to

were

of

the

the

real

early hour,

an

picturesque

immensity

of

site

that

desert.

new

When

the httle

evening
mud

closing day,
the
*

sun
Black

came

house
a

fell with

I sat

admired,

and

landscape
a

down

on

which

deUghtful mauve

Mountain.

( 180 )

again
in the

the
tint.

in
calm

last

front

of

of the
rays

of

Crouching

in

graceful attitude

Baluchi

young
blew

his

on

air.

hands

shepherd,

by

old

an

preparing

he

to

the

say

the

grave

with

the

shrill music

symphony,

the

November
we

the

of the

was

over

had

come

chain

We

now

the

Anglo-Afghan

which

six

or

for

There

three

the
that

frontier,which
^

had

the
in

officers at
in

the

that

is situated

Heaps
Also

of
called

the

whitewashed
Killa

had

begun.

On

the

bungalow

Httle

Robat.

further,the track

to

north-

the

station, and

( 181 )

845

of Robat.

charming

fashion
I

can

corner

in

by
say
of
the

valley, in

narrow

clearly indicated

Altitude

west,

brought
by cliffs,

pleasantest evenings

stones

follow

to

following

slopes

reached

were

station

in

of

desert.

soon

sharply

the

Afghan

out-of-the-way

journey.

add

and

bordered

gorge

of

strange

to

we

been

Baluchistan, one
Robat

Allah.

seemed

the

road,

same

welcomed

spent,

we

at

overlook

the

days

were

British

two

ential
rever-

mingled

were

bells

sleep

to

zig-zagsto

we

flageolet,
making

December

kilometres.

numerous

Gar

always keeping along

and, passing through

by

; with

prayer

blessings of

Namaz

north-westerly direction,turned

us

wrinkled

by side, with

caravan

which

continued

for five

melancholy

angelus.

Shah-Mahomed-Reza,
north

the

of the

which

to

tollingof
30th

of

tones

ringlets,

deeply

evening

the

implored

And

the

and

with

man,

thana,

in

hair

long

outspread, placed side

gesture

the

with

the

of

terrace

flageoleta short,tremulous

Close

face, was

the

on

PICTURE

TOUCHING

the

metres.

track.

AROUND

AFGHANISTAN

the

of

midst

is not
eye

a
on

and

scrap

of

every

side walls

of

to crush

you

ready

seem

The

sides.
and

strangely

the

of

water

it seems,

station

and

empire

of the

May,

Delayed

Lion

the

before

change

to

our

that

are

common

Persian

the

be

Customs
short

only a

was

more

in that

I left

on

once

which

Sun,

frontier,

Persian

There

the

only

was

at

to

had

we

in the

eight o'clock

after

left Robat

had

we

which

and

entering Persia,

we

which

pack-camels

saying good-bye
and

hosts, Captains Dunscombe

amiable

very

the

I should

in finding,it
difficulty

evening

that

it, so

garrison.

from

the

heavens,

high vertical

distil

to

from

and

the

to

Gaiidan.

at

by

There

scarcely drinkable,

scurvy,

small

and

travel

to

of

18th

in the

the

their

is

even

of Koh-i-Malek-Siah.

distance

under

refuse

kilometres

eighteen

granite scale

wells

six kilometres

were

and

the

soldiers

fever, dysentery,
We

landscape.

vegetation to give pleasure

Hindoo

enough,

dismal

White.
The
the
*

of

base

side

north
west

the
rocks

mountain

is, so

position is
and

as

and

alone

as

south, overlooked

is

drinkable,
seem

to

be

at

the

past

no

able

Robat
the

on

the

by pebbly hummocks,
water

years

spurs

to

east
of the

vegetation
grow

(182)

afterwards

and

the

frontiers

meet.
to

gate
the

it is

by

and

native

wide

in

Indian

the

on

have

Palan-

grows

Persia

Persians

English appointed

the

desolate

Persia

round

passes

of which

summit

the

speak,

to

for several

consequently
station

at

and

Baluchistan

Koh-i-Malek-Siah

Customs

The

Koh-i-Malek-Siah,^

the

Pyramidal shaped

frontier,then

the

crosses

of

Afghanistan,
2

track

established

vice-consulate.
passage

running

high rocky wall,

Koh
the

multiply.

hills.

on

the

Although

valley,where

the

the

enters

bed

stony

of

dried-up river, where

faithful

camel

stumbled

every

pebbles

which

rebounded

with

Suddenly, he stopped
fear.

child

had

holding
We

gesture.
in

mazars
was

the

who

had

out

the

the

of

At
and

that

British

themselves
towards
a

to

us

of

for

both

look.

But

him

rub

in

Koh-i-Malek-Siah.

the

at

the

before

us

asleepin

the

village
of the

entrance

white

as

seemed

dog
the

and

came

gravity : they

were

delightfulkitten.

a
as

snow

to

consult

hesitated

each

other

by

wagged

his

cat, reassured, came

legs,as
(183)

The

they

sniffed friends ; he

young

against our

They

eyes.

air of comic

and

tail,and

to

of

astonished

an

was

tufted

Gustave

vigilantguards suddenly presented

our

the

of

pale Ught

the

placed

soon

meanwhile,

with

moment,

under

by
looked

ornaments,

vice-consul

big shepherd's dog

coat

camels

cottage,two

canvas

surmounted

again ; bright spots appeared

our

camp

men,

selves
prostratingthem-

hour, everything seemed

in the

saw

turban

our

fairypicturepainted by

started

the

While

of stones

heap

venerated

the green

with

monument.

picture which,

valley,and

tent

the

of the

suppHcating

of the most

one

hastily,were

seemed

We

of

sudden

by

if out

as

flat

crockery.

moonlight

with

multi-coloured

curious

moon,

Dor".

of the

of

in the

this urchin

dismounted

poles bearing
that

in front

keeper

if seized

as

bowl

wooden

were

front

and

me,

Persia,and

in

at

to

like

noise

my

the

on

suddenly appeared

earth, there, close

him

moment

sniffed

and

APPARITION

SUDDEN

if to wish

us

with

welcome.

AFGHANISTAN

AROUND
A

Hindoo

on

doctor

account

of

He

woke

day.
hour

refreshed, we

able

under

whose

tent

As

European

wore

without

even

do, the

distinctive

he

as

talked

to

of

began

"

near

ancient

the mystery

to

the

time,

same

ruined

we

He

cities of

was

learned

most

without

for hours

him

elegance,

turban.

the

army,

wearying

people,of
which

its

I had

long.

that
"

of

day

functionaries

Hindoo

many

taking a northerly

afterwards, and

soon

Leh

Indian

of the Se"stan, of its

so

after

as

note

its great

started

direction

great

next

much

with

costume

at

me

dreaming

We

the

and

I listened

customs,
been

those

Ashraff-Khan,

officer in the

an

adding,

amiable,

talker.

an

that, completely

so

sleep in

to

go

of

quarter

spent the night, came

we

Nasretabad.

most

to

tea,

that

expect

them, shouted,

English vice-consul. Captain

The

he

not

solitudes.

peaceful

from

comfortable

were

did

he

less than

in

managed
a

half dressed, terrified

us

people, hustled

his

up

give us

to

to

up

visit which

our

and

stormed,

came

long stage
penetrated

of civilisations that have

west, which

the territories of

into

Drangian, violatingby

(184

the

to

our

inquisitiveness

disappeared.

VIII

CHAPTER

KOH-I-MALEK-SIAH

FROM

Haozdar

and

frontier

Afghan
sand

tempest

for

Meshed

loop

We

the

halt

where

Hurmak,

suddenly

away,

and
the

dawn,

the

tamarisks

our

5th

the

"

Departure

"

snow

of

The

"

December

with

our

the

large

night,
pleased

fire

of

of

early

us

quickly

branches,

south

rose

while

barred

Koh,

with
us

day
and

(185)

was

we

the

to
set

scintillating

when

depression

top.

surrounded
all

Palan-

sank

stones.

gray

the

to

the

coloured

sky

hills

Koh-i-Malek-Siah,

long chain,

brought

the

of

of

thana

east, the

visible

two

little verdure.

desert

the

little band
rosy

wretched

widened,

towards

its serrated

which

Oriental
men,

between

way

the

vast

faintly

west

its
as

valley

is

that

first stage

At

an

in

days

springs brought

pyramid

the

which

near

few

was

gloomy

This

far

entered

God-i-Zireh

horizon

cliffs,as

the

we

right,

towards

made

Then

the

consulate

the

on

first

at

black

of

the

British

river

the

on

looped.

Koh-i-Malek-Siah

caravan

ranges

of

town

Navigating

"

Wretched

"

dead

morning.

The

On

Birjand

"

dam

the

at

at

successfully

was

left

in

Christmas

MESHED

Nasretabad

"

Hilmend

the

At

"

"

"

fortress

ancient

its

TO

soft

then

over,
had

their

up
a

with

Reg

wells,
tents.

pale

night

tint

came,

stars.

Then

settled

round

for

moment

AROUND

the

AFGHANISTAN

noise

and

the dead

day

rapid

undoubtedly,
feet the
now

the

longer

no

to the

which
lakes

Se"stan

God-i-Zireh.

points, however,

think

us

to

in

those

could

of the

with

the

season

with

precipitous
unites

inundation

it, the
at

numerous

Ashraff-Khan
have

led

duck-hunting
far

as

filled
had

some

alas !

munication
com-

reaches

deep

of

basin

elevated

established

water.

We

country.

reached

were

bruised

their

under

less

flutteringof

no

argillaceous

camels, delighted,

of

we

latitudes,but

reach,

of

corner

an

canal

times

should

we

remote

Baluchi

wide

there

saline

strong

feel

to

been

not

the

the

the

At

had

with

of

Shellah, a

during

of

this

through

stride

pebbly ground

came

banks

advanced

we

the

to

life in

of the desert.

immensity

Next

plain

gaiety of

wings

the

eye

disturbed

the

as

horizon.
On

the

other

hill,some

ruins

tion, and

as

it

turned

towards

would

be

of

canal, perched

imposing aspect

was

the

those

welcome.

half -demolished

yard

side of the

the

stood, closelyplaced against one

of bricks

times, according to Sher

the
dead

surrounding plain every

from

the

of which

buildings,with
a

the

the

narrow

where

dune

In former

sun.

inundation

year, and

invasion
disrespectful
(186)

of

kind

another, innumerable

dried in the

Jan,

atten-

my

shade

of

summit

sand

halt, we

identical

Four

midday

high walls, the

cupolas,surrounded

they occupied

sarcophagi made

attracted

of the

hour

on

to

of

covered

defend
the

their
waters

of the
hills in

the

of

the

the

moonlight.

It

exquisitelyclean

was

station

rosy

uniformly

red

blood-red

haze,

the

the

plain

the

the

Jan

that

told

that

with

and

inhabitants

they

It

before
walls
over

the

the
of

in

in

in the

rent

the

of

silhouette
we

mai'ched

regular,swinging gait.
ground

we

treading

were

pasture-lands,but

immense

Afghans having

led

to

the

canal,vegetationdisappeared,
towards

migrated

the

north,

still are.

nearly nine

was

ceptibly
imper-

horizon

fantastic

same

the

of the Tarakun

where

brighter;

day appeared, casting on

and

the

drying up
the

marvellous

solitude
argillaceous

with

me

whole

the

of

orb

In that

dispute

luxury,

flattering

became

East

then, suddenly,

deformed

morning

early, by

very

formerly occupied by

was

with
and

long

light,barely visible,which

tint ;

animals.

Sher

with

furnished

not

was

of

honours

splendid thanadar

Gradually,

came

all the

the

Shah,

Nowar

the threshold

crossed

we

Ghirdi

spread, bathing

our

passed the

we

administration.

left

first

of

by

everything

We

o'clock

thana

beard.

British

to

four

done

were

northwards,

way

about

henna-red
but

our

English

which

few

the

on

region.

Resuming
wells,and

them

buried

natives

the

Hilmend,

SOLITUDES

CLAYEY

THROUGH

o'clock

when

of

Haozdar

large gate

which

the desert.

pointed

arch

the

flanked

by

In the

shadow

of

the

towers

camels

fort, the

knelt

high

only keep guard

of these

entrance

(187)

our

we

ruins,beneath
settled

down

AROUND

AFGHANISTAN

for the

daily halt.

in these

time

marvellous

of the

nothing
eaten

We

above

spite of

and

and

goats

Some

sand
to

their

that

necks, and
The

drew

ground

Here,
and
you

about

of

of

sheep
well.

which

water,
hollowed

not

they
of

out

had

the

been

departure,

our

fruitful

the

able

turned

flexible

big red

coats

surpriseof

black
stand
bark

less

arrived

at

are

tents
to

appear,
see

us

furiouslyat
(188)

of the

in the

hour's

an

crops

path.

on

march
all sides

fields,meadows
tillers are

country
in front

is

heels

moving

peopled,

of which

pass, while
the

the

smiling landscape

grazing and
The

blue.

with

more

turn

than

among

parts,

appearance

overflowing,wheat

oxen

in

In

these

in

as

herself

amused

land.

suddenly

children

Nowhere,

things,all change

have

you

clothed

tawny

which

near

multitude

Sky, air, the

contrasts.

everywhere
and

since

changed.

channels
irrigation
in which

huts

muddy

trough,

thirst

o'clock.

two

gargled contentedly.

and

have

about

camels, which

capricious nature
of

clay bricks,

lucky watering-placetheir long

scene

fancy

remained

Shah-Mohamed-Reza

of

our

There

wretched

the

was

and

started

bleating

kind

itself ;

quench

has

it

identifythe

except dried

we

two

swarmed

into

towards

of

sought,

architecture,

could

fortress.

of centuries.

heat,

shepherds

poured

dust

in front

came

moved

the

the

that

vanished

which

ground

the

by

of

document

the

in vain

was

remains

building of

away

In

it

But

inscription,a

an

women

big dogs
of

our

and

with

animals.

Itinerciry
OKm

\0

20

30

THE

40

PERSIAN

de Boui

50

PROVINCE

OF

SE"STAN

liane

of
de

Mctjor
Lacoste

FERTILE

Nothing

of the

idea

give an

can

COUNTRY

impression produced
after

seeing this fertile,living country

on

thirty days

it gave

inexpressiblejoy

an

me

that

of

end

the

and

villageof Lutak,
seemed

to

the

me

9th.

the

British

which

the

consul

its fortress
Persian

by

and

in

arid

and

of"cial

town,

flyingthe
the

gate

colours
of the

line, Cossacks
the
*

were

the

small

in

the

and

small

secretary
welcome,

us

lations,
Congratu-

off to Nasretabad
first

passed along
front

of the
allied

consulate

Sowars,^

regular army

cupolas

with

of India.

(189)

the

become

gradually
walls

nations, and

drawn

of the

consulate

Russian

; whilst

appear,

had

capital came

honours.
Lancers

bid

plain, which

of the two
British

we

saw

gray

in

and

tivated
cul-

vast

the

found
to

came

then

cavalcade
then

started

magnificent tent purposely put

desolate, the
Our

in view.

horses

we

us,

in full uniform.

we

immense

an

we

on,

who

four o'clock

the

keeps, containing a

Further

under

twilight,

journey.

among

pace

the

to

villageof Sekoha,

the

embattled

quick lunch, and

About

rapid

all the Cossacks

halt

graciouslysent
a

consul

the

deeply,

us

of

hour

day, riding

passed

garrison.

followed

with

Russian

of the

up,

We

at

it

brought

violet- tinted

that

On

delighted me

inhale

to

of

smell

The

me,

delightfulin

most

dawn, advancing
fields.

which

stage,

at

December

at

intoxicated

gloomy

most

world, perhaps.

freshly-turnedsoil

the

desolate, the

most

whole

the

in

soHtude

the

in

marching

drawn

through
up

swords,

in
did

AFGHANISTAN

AROUND

host, Captain Dawkes,

Our

home

had

We

which

after

it

last few

disputed

policy

active

that

competition
English

is

will be

prosperity

it

have

the
the

able

we

in

knew

more

unwearying
amidst

oasis

carried

be

may

the

back

which

on

very

has, perhaps,

country

in

is included

influence,

bring

to

in

influences

Se"stan

of

sphere

removed,

unique
rival

two

empire

now

with

ander,
Alex-

deserts.

the

years

then,

that

the

which

Britain's

Great

of

from

But

suffered.

flame

bright

conqueror

every

destroyed
of

Iranian

the

stages, reached

Tamerlane

riches

immensity

the

In

the

extraordinary fertility

to

prey

times, Nadir-Shah

bare

life,and

mysterious province,

the

Drangian,

persistence the
the

the

numberless

Genghis-Khan,
recent

shone

somewhat

that

made

which

of

comfortable

chatting pleasantly around

in

thus,

ancient

that

his

civilised

charming

of tamarisks.

capital of

the

in

chimney-place

large branches

of

with

contact

spent

was

of

intimacy

warm

renewed

we

evening
tall

the

In

welcome.

us

gave

and

certain
that

to

all

that

the

that

region the

first centuries

of

Arab

dominion.

capitalis composed

The
:

the
group

Nasretabad,

Persian
of

European
more

than

governor

poor

hovels

consulates.
four

to

of two

distinct

half-demolished

fortress

The

which
whole

five thousand

(190)

where

Husseinabad,

resides, and
among

tions
agglomera-

does

stand
not

inhabitants.

the

two

comprise

SIGHTS

THE

have

been

interested

river

Hilmend

the

holy

mountain

the

lakes.

It

aegisof

our

Afghan

ground
a

reach,
kind

and

gave

Our
the

wide
and

them

About

crossed

the

consternation
at that

march
an

at

these

immense

plain.

tower

It is known

the

we

which

in the

horses

as

the
the

expanses

from
Bun

about

country

slipped
to

deep,

floundered

and

Nasretabad

jar, to
were

on

cross

sometimes

we

the

much

great
ished
aston-

then, continuing to

midday

rises in the

(191)

sky

to time

had

we

boggled

cavalcade

which

time

green

were

arrived

made

corn

from

moment

inhabitants, who

European

westwards,

for

village of

modern

far

the

tint.

kilometres

five

of

and

wavy

every

in

under

immense

animals

poor

of the

different

short excursion

plain, as

shoots

slow,

was

the

of

under

morning,

the

green,

irrigationcanals,
in them

finally,

its belt

and

horseback

In

delicate

and

visit those

the

on

young

clay, and

freely.

of

the

swayed

progress

moist

in

got

we

of emerald

passing breeze

region,

frontier.

limpidity.

could

eye

I had

the

dam,

begin by

Early

garden,

of wonderful

should

we

should

we

13th.

consulate

what

what

of

not

therefore, agreed that

host,

the

ruins

Koh-i-Kuadja,

was,

towards

kind

that

its great

of

that

December

curious

would

I had

but

everything else, and

and

and

of

inquiry

the

wonders,

Se"stan

profound study,
an

were

see,

the

salt

in

before

me

to

come

of

worthy
indulge

to

come

of

politicalsituation

Certainly,the

SE"STAN

OF

under

middle
the

front

in

of the
name

of

AROUND

AFGHANISTAN

Mil-i-Kazimabad/
red

of

half

way

To

the

at

inside

steps of

the

between

the

Kazimabad."

circular

two

other

the

up,

characters.

one
inscriptions,

top, written

wall

which

Built

is affixed

in

cufic

staircase

countless

colonies

had

before

of bees

nestling.

were

us, in the

was

At

solitudes.
Zabieha

while,

in

the

the

ruins

kilometres,

ten

There

mend.

with

eaten

the

of

the

plain to

all

the

consul
frontier

ancient

far

as

of

city

length of

more

the

as

Hil-

enclosures, and
laid

was

by

away,

Baluchistan

Afghan

succeeded

but

meals

interpreterFazer-Aman,

extended

and

enclosures

porches porches
completely

the

covered

which

Zahidan,
than

explore

started
on

fast,
break-

summary

in the

us

we

hunting

company

to

went

o'clock

went

the

for

served

us

excellent

an

to

prepared

two

gone

monument,

contrast

Shah

Ameer

which

who

of the

shade

which

and

cook

consulate's

The

it bears

brick,

"

pillarof

or

the

waste,

almost
of

winds

fierce

Se"stan.

into

time

by

splendour

by

This

metres

high,
metres

and

is

probably

of

one

of the

its base, of which

built

we

square.

(192)

found

departed

it

far

visionary towns,

of burnt

twelfth

spectator

however

thought,
immense

scattered

life cannot

intense, wonderful

human

only

the

leaves
remains

of the

Those
the

monument,

of Se"stan,

the

any

back.

look

part

seven

mysterious ruins,

strange chaos,

of which

evoked

may

those

silent in presence

himself

be

of

silence

The

bricks

century.

only

the

in the

It is about

Eastern

twenty

foundations,

was

DEPARTED

formerly resplendent with

those

East,

now

cast

that

high

wall

dismal

with
for

calls

laid

palaces.

You

times,

stop

to

look

backwards

It
when

that

On

the

if

as

in

and

magnificence

speaks,
ground

wonderful

spite

fill the

of

difficulty
land,

yourself, you
and

eyes

memory
scattered

extinct, now

now

grandiose

inanimafe

that

the

are

with

away

foot

the

life of those

yourself

tear

several

that

that

tones, which

of the intimate

and

the

delicate

space

lugubrious

longer grows,

enigmatical spell of

the

trumpets

stone

story.
no

grass

most

remains

to

its

from

empty

whose

graven

tells

even

the

luminous

with

No

the

into

plumage

From
and

against piecesof porcelainof

strikes

designs, of

from

the

activity

away,

call of

dive

there

night.

waste, where

merely

loud

the

dusky

inscription that

no

crumbling

was

resounded,

owls

croak

which

of which

have

must

and

joy

non-existent.

oblivion,cold, dead,

to

summit

the

whose

of

colours

imagination gladly resuscitates, are

awakened

an

richest

the

cities

opulent

CITIES

winds.

was
we

late,and
arrived

night

at

by

powerful

mass,

assaults
back

at the

the

very

foot

of

it must
the

have
time

the

by

we

ancient

redoubt,

formidable

gleams

I carried my

of

its
the

! What

tion
imagina-

of the

stood, where

{ 193 )

in

undergone

the armies

when

grouped

last

have

repulsed!

where

an

horizon

were

tents

still

siegesit must

captains encamped
i3-(ai34)

The

camp.

coloured

What

to

already nearing the

sun

centuries, but

uprooted

settingsun.

the

those

greatest

giants

AROUND

AFGHANISTAN

of

age

another

that

Meanwhile,
left

was

Then
the
at

night

had

what

epoch

fatalist

the

by

breakfast

but

some

all

the

the

Africans,
the

solve

it.

of

belong

who

of

with

the

pointed
sky

the

the

which

problem

situated

neighbouring

hamlet

the

majority
banks

negro

in

met

part of the way

led

large

us

without

into

cultivated

to

took

thickets

south.

(194)

Here

show
did

How

Baluchistan
this

point ?

trying

The

and

to

the

on

me

of tamarisk

glades.

Nile,

and

hunting

went

the

reminds

of the

race,

Soudanese.

Fazer-Aman

more

dogs
camp.

give

Zabieha

and

Hilmend,

the

the

the

neither

are

particularly

jackals and

the

on

to

of

was

neighbouring regions, reach

city

by

of the

fellahs

the

Dawkes

While'

me

God

in the

fights around

type

characteristics

"

hand
rose

on

tell

to

ever.

his

which

of the

terrible

of them

is

for

14th of December

children

us

strongly of

That

him

calmly,

and

moon,

howling

the

one

ancient

the

on

around

in

companion,

my

very

Oriental,

an

the

carried

banks

answered,

thin

scarcely visible.

was

I asked

but

more

fortress.

disturbed

nor

that

walls

disappeared

pale crescent

night of

these

the

it had
he

That

stood

mist

nothing

town

of

tone

the small

At

top of

rosy

changed.

not

strange

knows,"

which

has

beneath

conquest

or

questioned Fazer-Aman,
of that

above

war

fully come

serrated

light,a

end

alone

to

alone

the

on

of

streak

which

sky

same

of

dreamed

to

an

first
sected
interthere

were

with
and

groups

of Baluchi

clay ;

around

should

we

covered

dogs kept good guard,

the

been

CHARISTAN

of wattles

huts, made

them

have

OF

RUINS

THE

if

bitten

had

we

been

not

horseback.

on

As

proceeded, the

we

it

and

almost

was

surrounded
of

Charistan,

on

the immense

the
two

the

as

huts,

and

wretched

the

of

hope

vague

silent

were

few

chief

our

coming

for

we

his

saw

had,

no

him

hurrying

pipe-holder.

into

his

dwelling, and

many-coloured
a

prosperous

do

only
*

these

colony

know

Baluchi

numerous

with

or
a

been

had

fortress.

resided.

sit

down
there

httle

whose

it seemed

Moreover,
him,

followed

us,

for

enter

take

to

malevolent

by
httle

tea,

on

have

must

creatures

same,

signalled to

to

the

preserved,

always the

towards

whose

been
name

dispositionI

well.

too

fragile huts,

of masonry

of

questioned, in

been

we

appointed
dis-

our

their work

villagewhere

carpet, where

know, but

not

The

met

ancient

tribe

indeed

saw

done

had

that

doubt,

Alas

country,

important

an

town

overlooked

we

ruin

had

that

large Baluchi

of

the

winds

the

which

no

story of that

across

to

us

wild

which

forest

stood

reach,

tradition

the

on

alas

nomads

some

kilometres

brought

but

The

gaze.

could

eye

thicker,

journey. Climbing

our

clay-coloured mound

three

or

formerly

objectiveof

the

far

plain as

impenetrable

an

hill where

the

taller and

became

trees

large

cupola

who
black

live

in

Persian

tents, while

roof.

(195)

the

territoryinhabit
Iranians

Uve

only

in cubes

AROUND

AFGHANISTAN

Old

Charistan

nearer

line of

residence

In

me.

mallets

fact,we

spread
Next

day

the banks

on

grass,

silhouettes
I could

the

tire of
be

to

fires

the

tamarisks.
all

hear

things,and

nothing

hands.
far

It
the

as

distant
*

An

region

the

dull

followingday,

atmosphere,

banks

beat

to

of the

axm
as

had

far

as

we

already

as

; their

soon

when

It

was

chat

you

old

or

of numberless

of meditation

conversation
of

ceases

the

you

river, and

cricket.
the

as

left the

white

water, and

the eye.

hush

murmur

the

tall

picture that might

camp

that

had

sun

with

decided

of the

Hilmend, only

Hilmend

clear

been

the

the

among

lightperfume
a

come

tints.

hour

if

as

dogs,
canvas

stories of the hunt

the

when

chirp of

monotonous

The

the

but

is

the

had

deep

the

listeningto

There

of

heavy

the

delightof

air is full of the

The

legends.

the

for the

the

entered

that

admiring

drawn

of

Rud-i-Se"stan
in the

ago

told

pitched

peaceful evening hour,

around

on

of the

years

it,the guide

mauve

were

reflected

were

not

said

tents

our

rained

Our

barking

twilightthat

exquisitelydelicate

came

expedition.
blow

we

we

with

few

near

the

and

men,

the

dotted

was

the

pegs,

the

which

its

heard

tent

of

village,on

what

while

us

MacMahon

soon

the

shouts

the

of

placed quite

was

on

behind

-looking hills

the

of

encampment

be

black
remains

buildings,the
the

receded

now

guns

warmed
in

should

we
a

few

our

go

as

kilometres

shrubs, where, it seemed, there

which

gives

Nasretabad.

( 196 )

wealth

and

life to

the

whole

ON

THE

CORNER

BANKS

OF

OF

THE

RAMl'AKTS

THE

HILMEND

OK

RUINED

THE

OF

"GROUP
"

REPAIR

THE

TOWN

SE[STAN
"

BEND

OF

PEASANTS

ZAHIDAN

GOING

TO

ON

legions of

were

barely gone
the
was

kind

dogs

of

brown

and

We

on

river Hilmend
is
is

said

have

of the

one

with

its

the

for

preserved

I have

astonishing

an

castles

in

the

Middle

marvellous

was

covered

silver

with

of

from

and

water

that

in

passes
the

We

Hilmend

15

to

placeby

famous

shut

in the

Bend-i-Seistan.

wide, it

20

stakes.

through, and

you
its

up

their

not

resist the

view

plain

the

long

volume
off

of

just in

history of
than

composed

very
can

the

More

is

strong
the

top

the
150

of fascines

feeble volume

of

easilyunderstand

banks,

who

down, complain bitterlyof this

dries
could

and

track,

our

the

roUing

base, its

then

grass,

north,

to

Se"stan

round

the

the

centuries,
in

to

From

Kuhak,

fort,which

foreground lay

Afghans livingon

live lower
which

the

dam

called

long by
held

in

the

the

as

the

at

resemblance

Ages.

south

by

us

country,
metres

of

nimble

two

interior

tall dark-coloured

streak

its waters
front

the

distance

seen

broadened

loopholes, its battlements, its

it bore

short

abandoned

towers

corner

of

Afghan territory.That
been

best

head
as

was

game

fort

ruined

overlooking at

and

to

Baluchi,

young

reached

mount,

The
black

others

many

hour.

an

when

camp

lightning.

as

after

the

by

partridge with

quick

soon

built

for

replaced by

were

hares

fusillade

general

fired, followed

was

had

fact, we

In

outside

paces

HILMEND

THE

OF

partridges.

young

hundred

first shot

it

BANKS

THE

happen

to

construction

river.

desire to set foot

(197)

on

Afghan

AROUND

AFGHANISTAN

territory,and
the

crossing the

great consternation

off

the

of

dust

Ameer

of

Two

boats

that

to

our

Nasretabad

seized
the

he

swiftness

which

painful for

brought

This

to

the

British

was

the

me,

was

death

could

Now

I had

already

facilities for

the

had

which
in

order

to receive

The
we

our

for

were

two

that

taken

and

they
that

boats

Hurriedly

should

evening
were

descend

be
in the

there
the

our

it

end

of
who

the

to

knew

that
was

country.

few

what

about,
we

loaded

ready

left
on

spring

and
the

the

before

got
tents

camels

twilight

villageof Djezinak.

waiting for

us

; with

Rud-i-Se"stan, while

(198)

was

Manchuria

light of

bustled

and

live

not

that

in
I

Shah

gave.

radiant

down

**

agitation which

Yunnan

at

awoke,

camp

to be

to

bring

English

over

and

France,

fail to

times,

departure.

us

of

from

will

approaching
of the

the

the

fact

thinking

lived

In

from

shadow

travellingrevolutions
16th.

December

morning,

not

troublous

very

the

flying.

arrived

heart,

cast

friend

flag was

had

and
little

our

following effect

news

learn

that

ready

the

dam,

arrow,

telegram

of

sad

to

me

who

Emperor

during

of

pieces, and

to

an

courier

to

of

perfect tranquillity.Beyond

kind

dominions

taken

the

inflammation

by

night."

so

to

"

shook

we

alongside the

the

Teheran

at

be

came

absence

our

minister

fascines
"

the

on

could

villageover

During

anglers

camp,

reached, with

canvas

few

boots

our

on

Kabul.

belonged
we

of

Hilmend

them
the

would

caravan

would
and

reeds,

accustomed

the
of

only

to

is

branches
like

of river

mode

Se"stan

from

part

floods

shaped roofs, their

of the

waters

in

multitude

of

change

this

with

the

black

pebbles of

We
of

long

passed

old

river

trots

Baluchi

old

the

Further

innumerable

by

rejoicingat
when

and

with

thought

of

of

sand,

was

seek

and

shelter behind

fortunately within
hour

we

to

watched

reach.

the

land
a

as

the

then
a

out

was

among

already

were

wild

which

wind
our

quickly

that

way

raised

frail barks.
as

possible,

hill which
for

tempest raging. Then

(199)

mazar

hill that

spread

little sand
In

the

We

nearly overthrew

necessary

compared

approaching hecatomb,

an

rose,

able
agree-

inhabited, it seemed,

reeds

of ducks.

wind

eyes

through

of

river

colonies

suddenly the

clouds

It

the

the

on

the

in

an

made

Kemak,

summit

cupola-

our

What

backs

desert

the

on

with

before

passed

fort of

protects

reflected

were

camels*

of

villages,

which

navigation

on

the

covered

marshes

several

charming pictures.

Atashga, perched

quite white.

thus

people
shaped

is

prow

houses

towers,

and

Rud,

the

small

; their

the

by

eminence

an

river,for

tooteen, made

called

passed by

on

fact,

in

their

used

which

We

neck.

built for the most

them

raft

looking

not,

navigating

together,of

tied

children

were

locomotion

of

sort

swan's

They

boats

see

and

asses,

astonishment.

with

on

oxen,

saw

we

they

tamarisks

with

banks, covered

the

On

halt.

where

point

the

directlyto

go

RIVER

THE

ON

was

whole

suddenly

AFGHANISTAN

AROUND

wind

inexplicablythe

and

cleared,

and

in

resumed

we

the

dropped,

horizon

dark

sunshine

bright

our

interrupted journey.
After

the lakes

crossed

we

bordered

channel

Rud-i-Se"stan, and

the

on

hills of

endless

over

villageof Djezinak,
Nothing, however,

then

we

was

ready

when

patiently,admiring

them

beauty

of

voyage

to

little

the

pitched.
the

thousands

cross

the

transparence

we

and

drous
won-

of the

blue

for

waited

far, and

dark

foot

on

arrived;

we

still

sky, the

blue

guide

our

be

is to

camp

irrigationcanals, were

narrow

proceeded

the

camels, delayed through having

of

of

sand, towards

moving
where

the

but

the end

reached

had

signalledto stop, we

dunes

high

by

entered

boats

our

rarest

turquoise gems.
Scarcely had
the

storm

day

time

disappeared in

sun

returned

still

; it carried

obliged

men,

the

violently than

more

it

the

creak

up,

and, lying on

my

when,

would

leave

me

freed

at

by

its

strength ;
of

dwellingsshowers
the

drum.

canvas,

The

tents

the

they flapped, making

camp

from

rise heavenwards

defenceless

of

beating

lifted

were

moment

shelter

like the

noise

themselves

the

frail

our

on

the

Hour

tents.

pebbles which, strikingrepeatedly on

made

pegs

up

the

increased

inauspicious wind

raged, throwing

small

up

our

ceasing, had

without

greatest difficultyin putting

hour

the

in

off,dispersedeverything,and

struggle

to

the west, when

the

(200)

its

bed,

was

expecting

moorings, my
like

mercy

of

canvas

balloon,
the

and

gale.

It

was

could

in their

morning

in

cords

of the

most

lamentable

in

bed

My
of

sand

outside

burden

It

the

only thing

of

the

be

had

back

were

married,

stranger
After

as

shivering;
natives

sent

where

could

with

the

but

asserted

as

settled

we
our

men.

That

beasts

starting;

not

one

the

admit

tempest

did

it would

that

to

try

to

well

as

horses

protection

from

departure

was

as

which
the
a

we

At

dismal

(201)

one

breakfasted
and

the
It

days.

to

Nasretabad,

midday, therefore,
marching
as

braved
;

seven

both

we

us

pell-mell

cease,

return

used

wind,

down

not

last

offer

to

We

possible,and

as

and

ambassador,

decided

wrapped

of the

paces

refuge in

could

distant.

tracks

dozen

of

our

only eighteenkilometres
up

covering

inhabitants,it appeared,

palavering,they

therefore,better

was,

before.

their roof.

under

we

seek

consequently

caravansary

best

think

to

all the

dejectedly:

much

ruined

thick

blew

village. Unfortunately,
been

and

which

horses

to

was

the

in

interpreter,who
came

done

in

our

useless

was

to

houses

of

become

swaying

evening

visible

was

fashion,

were

wind
the

buried

were

nothing

had

What

away.
of

clothes

and

than

wilder

sharper, colder, and

cold

the

which

fetters.

their

broken

being

now

way

camels

stillstanding after

were

we

of the

break

trying to

real

infrequent lulls,you

wails

lugubrious

fright,were

In the

but

the

hear

STORM

expectancy,

which, during the

in

nightmare

anxious

and

of terror

night

SAND

we

in the

guides and
the

advanced

gale.
with

AFGHANISTAN

AROUND

shelteringourselves

open,

the

in

bent

bodies

our
difficulty,

suffer

beat

which

sand

two,
much

as

get

we

left

we

halted

uniformly
made

we

had

guide

layer

spend

to

the

was

the

near,

to

ourselves

find

unfortunate
for the

who

servants,

camels

blazing.

quite

were

we

that

had

last in

at

rested

we

front

such

of

still

dispersed that

been

of

effort,

an

thought

perhaps

were

capital

genialwarmth

The

after

delicious

seemed

home

the

reached

o'clock, in fact, we

four

when

our

looking

morning

hurricane.

December

Emperor's
dress
pay

foot,

to

trying moment

Nasretabad

bright fire,cracklingand

to

was

beings ;

head

from

an

said.

quite pleased

my

It

of

shelter

like human

us

since

hours

afterwards,

the

in

covered

but

struggling

minutes

few

unrecognizable.

us

About

the

long

longer looked

no

gray

for two
a

the

possiblefor

was

been

exhausted

completely
ruin, we

and

storm

it
had

We

When

Djezinak.

immense

by

us

diminished,

dust

the

horseback.

on

constantly against the

and

made

acutely.

to

of

possible from

faces, and

strange yellow fog dispersed,and

barely

eyes

as

against our

Gradually, however,

us

our

my

19th.

day

name

coat

This

in

was

the

respects,

the festival of the

consequently, having put

morning,
as

Russian

I went

customary,

was

with
to

on

Zabieha

the

Tzar's

representative.
The

Russian

consulate

had

(20?)

hoisted

all its colours

THE

FORT

THE

AND

STEEP

VILLAGE

BANKS

OF

OF

THE

KEMAK

ON

RUD-I-SE"STAN
AND

REEDS

THE

BANKS

COVERED

OF

THE

WITH

RUD-I-SElSTAN

TAMARISK

AROUND

AFGHANISTAN

Christmas

Day,

all

the

saw

and

rulers

the

more

once

Russians

the

received

magistrates in

the

processionwe

had

except the militaryband, which

It
and

those

during
the

roof,
awoke

last

Frank

and

delicate

Nasretabad,

hosts

our

and
of

from

with

Cossacks,

soldiers

side

by

friendly

of

songs

the

mother

and

26th.

took

away

Yet

the

same

we

and

his

and

preceded by
French

and

to

the

of

Afzelabad

first

the

last

by
left

we

in

of

corner

our

Persia,

marched

Britain

of

troop

an

hand-shake

Dawkes

Captain
and

his

Cossacks,

camel-drivers

bearing

flags.
of

ready early,

were

by

Nekrassof

M.

Russian

amid

and

lancers

mule-drivers

stopping place
"

kindness.

caravan.

The

Sowars, by

ing
charm-

escorted

were

Great

and

our

courtesy

much

so

in that

first time

us

amiable

Hindoo

started, accompanied

and

with

we

two

welcomes,

missing during

was

personal guards,

Russia

of

side in the

December

when

tioned.
requisi-

French

echo

an

Meshed

their

for the

Thus,

the

big

under
of

satisfied with

towards

horsemen
two

we

it.

not

was

way

suite.

been

hospitality,sincere

cordial

remembrance

On

pomp,

same

gramophone

notes

attentions, nothing

at

our

the

still far away.

country

of

among

not

spent

of

we

admired

enormous

hours

something

us

had

an

gaily resounding

in

stay

replaced by

was

officially

country, and

days before,with

few

Dawkes

Captain

our

In

short,

stage

"

went

we

the

village

extraordinary fantasia;
was

(204)

exchanged,

amid

and
the

LAST

OUR

of

hurrahs
and

with

In the

myself,

nothing

now

our

had

of Naizar

already

the

of

marched
"

by Rahim-Berdi,

had

come

which

among
rich
and

his

in the

rear

were

to

in

marched

all

processionof
whimsical

in

of

day

our

the

nomads
removal
to

give
the

by Djumaconsulate,
Merv,
of

consequence

We

followed

this

ponies,while

who
some

first
in the

out, of the pack-mules,

gold-braided
who

had

had

owners

aegis,were
by

the

tunic

of

wretched

hkewise

put

trottingpainfully
two

Hindoo

lancers,

convoy.

under

(205)

placed himself

protection.

whose

of the

flanked

from

red

escorted

charge

Turkoman

our

our

guard,

picturesque

Russian

Meshed,

under

under

the

the

drawn

the

donkeys,

themselves

We

shone

wealth
of

caravan

who

line,long

Afghan going

presence

"

the

Transcaspia

trottingpace

the

slow

of

the

came

and

longer through

no

was

"

assassination.

rear

in

Cossacks,

unimportant
at

alone, Zabieha
desert,in

new

silence

vanished,

neighbouring village. At

two

and

group

than

more

travellingcircus, going

some

Ferash

from

it

the

the

Khan,

in

was

the

"

seen,

company

performance

head

It

caravan.

gardens

rose

comical

something

was

of

ness

of

away

impenetrable unknown.

disquietingand

all

left

were

we

threshold

the

on

There

was

possession,and

took

of

gradually died

of voices

noise

group

departed,

good-humour.

imperceptible point, then

dark

we

and

plain,the

animated

the

of

Ufe

them

friends

all those

Cossacks,

the

CARAVAN

burning

sun,

among

AFGHANISTAN

AROUND
tall

reeds, so high

shut

to

as

barely visible,followed

recently withdrawn,

was

still wet

our

the

expanse,

disported

gulls,herons

To

themselves

we

thousands

waters

that

the

left shone

reeds

and

blue

sky

out

of reach

outline

of

to be

dark

geese,

the

across
as

and

of ducks

the

among

saw

the

right and

constantly darted

southwards

which

track,

stumbled, stuck,

the

in which

The

clayey ground

but, alas,so high

flight,

in their
and

in

animals

only slowly.

teals

and

poor

advanced

hquid

ridge,from

had

the view.

out

the

Koh-i-Kuadja.
the

At
behind
as

if

the

rocky

Labi-Bering,
coloured

At

the

point, we

to

spend

departure

our

the

Bandan,

year

before

in front

Koh, casting
of the

waters

of the caravansary

deUciously

of

which
tint

rosy

of
also

are

which

with

is suffused.

compelled

were

from

and

station
been

two

stay

for

the

days

between
arrival

our

such

promulgated

when

time

to

twenty-four hours

Nasretabad

had

the

quiet

disappear

to

Palan-

cupolas

quarantine

at

the

over

five times

regulations which

about

was

of the

white

landscape

this

in order

the

with

the whole

mist
arrived

great lakes,we

sun

mountains

carnival

the

when

moment

were

at

the

nearly

plague reigned

in

Se"stan.

slashed
we

dawn

got
;

the
on

Behind

30th.

December

sky

with

formed

The
a

the

dawn

streaks

when

started

before

cupolas,

blood-red

long

horseback.

they

the

mules

dark

(206)

spot

had
on

the

steps of the

AROUND

AFGHANISTAN

respect for the

celebrate
of

the

new

last

stuffed

the

to

of the

issue

across

and

there

said

they

that

had

sun

left

We

of

had

there,

Just

canteen

drank

we

gaily to
the

to

marched

caravan

desert

with

happy

that

dorsal

of

ocean

granite;
fins

the

been

petrifiedthere

all that

day

undulations.

long

of dark

crests

settingin

was

of

Here

pebbles rocky
would

one

have

gigantic fish

some

in

the

on

where

we

the

had

We

plains
rivers

fresh

now

of

early

of

ages

the

each

day
a

white
of

was

pebbles ;
a

sea

country,

abundance.

through

with

scorched

shrubs

entirelyflat, strewn
it

now

disturbed

was

by

(208)

all

room

desert

striking resemblance

Baluchi

its stunted

ground

ride

to

native

the

by

provisionsin

lime, and

ments
canton-

Custom-house

the

had

we

objective

the

knew

when

dust

gold

Neh, the

to

us

evening

bore

the

and

surface

That

which

country

in

received

amiably

functionaries.

of

who

brought

way,

with

shower

Djuma-Khan,

were

whitened

first houses

the

at

stage.

our

and

done

bottom

and

were

arrived

Now

be

world.

The

of

the

we

from

rose

slender
islets,

the

Our

\st.

yellow

in

champagne,
friends

did in the bosom

Strasburg pies.

nor

to

journey.

January

we

turkeys

of

it to

was

anxious

were

formerly

we

discovered

bottle

France,

as

how

But

Zabieha

then

traditions, and

year

families.

our

neither

old

to

the

its

dried-up

by

the

with

sun.

black

undulating

like the

great swell.

Every

PALACE

RETURNING

OF

IN

THE

THE

SNOW

AMEER

IN

OF

THE

KA"NAT,

MOUNTAINS

NEAR

OF

BIRJAND

TORBET-I-HEIDARI

evening

the

very

often

then

obUged

for two

village,but

wretched

brackish, and

was

were

we

filled with

bottles

leather

carry

three

or

in it

water

to

in

shelter

found

we

K A IN AT

OF

AMEER

THE

WITH

water

days.

Passing Soosp, Sahalabad, Ser-Bisheh,^ Mood,

reached

Birjand

There

the

on

authorities

the

on

where

consulate

in

procession of gentlemen
telegraph, the
and

end

to

aide

de

string
In
a

the

camp
of

nights

spent

we

Functionary

I cannot

and

jar of
ten

M-""34)

the

"

from

us

the

of

the

doctors,

governor's

his

master

the

favour

of

trays

two

that

winter

deals

with

bags

of

Land)

distinguished

welcome

overtook

the

the

of

was

During

us.

fell to

the

the

two

10"C.

consuls.
of

pleasure
all its

towards

pace

thermometer

villagethe

Excellency,

(Glory of

his

bearing ;

it is in

of

His

to

We

ill-luck,and

our

twenty-five,with

resist the

butter,

frantic

part of it.

of

best

belonging

at

for

funniest

Shanket-el-Mulk

in this

Here

the

landau

about

who

the

make

to

Ser-Bisheh

at

presents.
one

of

was

native

two

begged

not

was

aristocratic

It

Ameer

galloping

man

and

charge

brought

the

the

in

day,

in

mustaphi

princely castle.
is

attire

series,the

that

had, however,

were

continual

'

visit,and

we

Russian

ceremonial

the

the

presents.

exchange,

next

was

karguzar,^
who

"

the

at

colonel

the
post-office,

of the

head

day

there

stayed

we

January.

dealings with

first

very

7th

the

immediate

into

entered

we

of

evening

we

giving

simplicity :

rice,one

bale

confectionery.
( 209 )

list

of

two

sheep,

of tea,

these

magnificent
five

eight loaves

chickens,
of sugar,

AROUND

AFGHANISTAN

simplest
he

and

to have

seemed

works

"

Trois

Les

free,and

"

o'clock

in the

exquisite walk
of the

his

the

which

would

and

noted

our

that

of

to

had

we

little

an

alleys
died

confidential

night

last

communicated

be

be

curious.

brought

on

prince of

the

foot

were

the

to

form

to

part

'of

represent wonderfully
A

Panza.

the

cordial

well

authorities

Bright
Henceforth

eleven

suns,
we

blue

his

faithful

evil

days

those

of the
we

to

place, and
arrived

on

only

servant

would
Sancho

and

we

without

"

forth
hence-

host,

our

units.

two

They

Quixote,

Don

were

"

circus."

hand-shake

Torbet-i-Heidari, where
after

"

the

by

made

post.

increased

on

near

be

to

their

at

was

fallen

was

both
roll-call,

and

blood

had

caravan

little band

the

departure

our

the

Fath-Ah-Khan

Doctor

mishap

and

Muzaffaru'ddin,

Ameer

at

absent

horseback

to

evening

Teheran

at

only

hour

the

was

one

to

"

length

innumerable

the

to

rapid inspection of

bow

following

later.

Meanwhile,

of the

Shah,

palace

addressed

no

of the

at

picturesque and
The

telegram

people

literature

Cam"lias

able

the

through

in

news

culture,

French

aux

were

quiet calm

lOth.

yesterday

Dame

we

town, all very

January

La

much

Mousquetaires."

four

About

Of

the translation

by
"

alone

kind.

speciallikingfor

Persia

representedin
two

amiable

most

were

final
off

serious

long days' march.

skies,and

should

have

(2ia)

easy
to

stages were

ended.

struggle constantly

THE

our

furs, against a biting cold

the

thermometer

that

Meshed

was

alone
of

help

the

1907,

at

those

long

of real

joy, only

known

definite
Next

gates

of

of

the

had

the

city

had

hearts
their

become

risks of

crossed

for the

and

us

in

cold

by

friends

cordial

and

affable

the most

bhnding

far from

not

intinerary
through
moment

those

deeply by
nomad

life with

shroud

of

of blue and
of

10th

friendlyshow

hospitahty

of

appearance

of civihsed

of

left there

warmth.

welcome,

Molitor

soon

people.
(211)

the

We

and
gave

snow

gold,

religious

winter,
had

Messrs.

the

May, 1906,

if the

with

contact
we

time

second

the

perserved

feted,

were

de

received
consuls-general,

two

Mr.

in

January,

in that

But

sun.

attentions.

with
the

the

on

burning

good

Sykes,

of

days

passed through

we

all white

of the

overwhelmed

last

efforts

our

the

now

resplendent under

could

loop, our

intenselyand

before

stood

reached,

29th

Meshed, the holy city,with its domes

which

had

road

and

Saughi-Best,

Meshed,

thought

view.

object in

day, having

heights

The

those

their reward

found

willinglyundertake

who
a

months

the

looped

brought

that

afternoon,

successfullycompleted,

was

be

to

Teheran

the

had

We

Sherif-Abad.

the

times

goal

uncomplaining
in

re-crossed

the

soon

last, on

o'clock

two

we

snow,

At

journey.

at

penetrating

zero.

that

was

bear

to

us

at

which

below

near,

aimed

long been

so

20 "C

to

and

faces

lashing our

hurricane

against a

LOOPED

LOOP

Klemme
us

with

the comfortable
us

back

the

AROUND

AFGHANISTAN

Nothing
rest

but

"

followed,
and

reach

to

thence

afterwards

And

the

the

which

the

had

us

train

to

packet

so

with

behind,

that

and
from

more

I had

found

I left

of

success

delighted
tempted

to

to

the

of

solitudes
had

we

just gone

strugglesand

in Zabieha

whom

find

owed

again if,at

undertake

and

efforts

in

and
a

fresh

some

212

travelling

with,

its

coadjutor, a

journey,

my

live

to

desert

devoted

friend, to
the

track,
minute

every

we

on

success.

perfect knowledge
Baku

did.

we

watery

those

Afghanistan

companion, shrewd, jovial,easy

at

so

myself standing

which

victorious

many

before

year

and

already

Kraznovodsk,
And

Baku.

to

Zabieha

and

more

after

crowned

the

week's

route

silent, watching the

crossed,from

round,

the

vessel left

separated

after

"

by

see

bridge, both

us

Askhabad

take

still

can

for

remained

more

with

resources

and

rare

great

measure

shall

whom
future

time,

adventure.

;
gretted
re-

be
am

INDEX
14
Garm-Ab.
the
Baruch,
35, 182
Ga"dan,

river, 126

Chipchak,

Chirag-Tash ("

Stone

The

Lamp"),

61
112

Chushkun,
Comb-

20
Gedemgha,
Khan,
Genghis

124

Chudjaz-Djilga,

the

and

merchant

Ghirdi

story

Concert,
Cossacks,
Cotte, M.

Giers,
Goats,

109

a,

the, 8

187
Shah,
M.
de, 22
8

the, 71
180, 185
30
Goolams
Customs,
at
Kutchan,
a,
Gramaphone
Colonel, 45
Gromstchevsky,
40, 42
Gultcha,
Goats'

Joseph.

V
190

Geshlag,

kettle,

of, 124

of, 173

Rock

Gat

Festival,

God-i-Zireh,

Da"-Lama,

the,

Dalbandin

"

"

145

the, 168. 170

Bungalow,

Dalgleish
Damgan,

Monument,

Dapsang,

Plateau

Darband,

32

123

33

11
H

of, 126
Haozdar

32

Dash-Arazeh,

Harun

Dauvergne, M., 82, 86, 123

Dawkes.
Captain. 190, 194, 204
De
Klemme.
M., 211
11
Deh-i-Molla,
9
Deh-Nemek,
Peak
of the, 5
Demavend,
Desert
of Baluchistan,
the, 164

and

148
note

the

Idols, 136
lUi-Su, 81
33
Imam-Guh,
Indus, River.
142, 150, 151
46
Irkeshtam,
the
Iskandar,
interpreter, 37, 41,
42, 44, 45, 46. 48, 51, 59, 64, 68.
71, 85, 92, 93, 95, 97, 103. 105,
107, 109, 121, 132. 135. 141. 155,

182

Captain,

Tibet,

147

River, 191, 194. 196

the. 142
99
Hindoo
Colony at Yarkand.
Horns, a collection of, 48
Horses, feeding of. 9
185
Hurmak,
190
Husseinabad.

32

steward.

in

109,

187

20

Himalayas,

162

Durb-Adam,

Fort,

Hashish.
Hilmend,

Djalil-Mirza, Prince, 10, 11, 13, 17

Djezinak, 198, 200, 202
205. 208
Djuma-Khan,
Drangian, the, 190
Dromedaries,

the,

al Rashid,

Harvest-time

173

Desert-pipe, the,

Dunscombe,
the
Dustok.

171

Hamun-i-Mashkel,
120

Darvaz-Sarigut,

169, 170. 173

Earthquakes, 31
An, 42
Encampment,
Enselme,
Captain, 1, 4, 14, 28, 43,

170

46, 53, 56, 62, 63, 79, 82, 100, 103

Exports of Tibet, 147

Istik. River,
Ivan-i-Keif,

71
5

Fakhr-Da"d,
Fath-AU-Khan,
Fazer-Aman,

21

Ferganah, the Kirghiz

Ferry-boats. 104
Fish, poisonous, 70
Frogs,
Funeral

Ameer
Kabul,
of, 1
41
Kadurkul,
the Territories
Ka"nat,

Dr., 210
192, 194
of

the. 48

Kal-Tagh,
"

Kalehs,"

Kalyan

41

Ornaments,

of

Kara-Davan,

135

of the,

207

13
8

Friendship, the,
the

47

("Black-Pan"),

93

Kara-Kash,

Ganglehs,
Gardens.

142

Persian.

115

Kara-Kul,
Lake,
55, 57, 63, 66

(214;

48,

50,

53,

54,

INDEX

119,
Kara"l,

104,

101,

the,

Pass,

Karakorum

Prince
Djalil, 10
meeting with
evening at Sheer azad, 10-11 ; on

123

91, 93
Kargalik, 108, and

33

37

Kashmir,

48, 56

Mt.,
Kaufmann,
Kelat, 157
199
Kemak,
Khalsi, 152

83

37

141,

142

caravanbash,

Osh,

42

the

141

180

Pass, the, 49, 51

the (" Red
Kizil-Davan,
Pass"), 94
Kizil-Art

Lake
the

55

march

the

Stone

68

caravaneers,

China

of

Goats'

Festival,

Pamirs,

Be"k

Pass,

with

at

the

pilgrims,

the

valley, 92 ; the path

of Arpalik, 94 ;
97 ;
by
moonlight,

torrent

oasis

98

Yarkand,

at

by
Gargantuan

reception
99

Aksakal,

Hindoo
"

repast,

100

104

118

alms-giving, 105 ; the legend of

the
goitrous people of Poskam,
106 ; a sumptuous
dwelling, 107 ;

of, 27, 29, 31

the

the

206
de
"

Bouillane

Around

halt

Yarkand,

from

at

of

tan
Afghanis-

opium-smokers,

the

Mazar

108

Beck-Arik,
a

of
and

Kilyang

112;

de.

from
2
Paris,
2 ; interview
Teheran,
Shah, 2 ; meeting with
6 ;

Muz-

the

87 ;
taineering
mounreached,
a
difficulties, 90 ;

the

start

hostess,

85

of, 88

in

departure

Expedition of,
arrival

75
78

way

an

60

Major

"

with

trouble

109 ;
concert,
1 10 ; the ascent

Lacoste,

last

the

the

the

on

arrival

52

Labi-Bering,

73

T"ish-Kurgan,

at

"

Oasis

70

the
;

the

visible.

Illi-Su, 82

along

39

Kutchan.

trouble

in
of

sight

to

81

Kutass-Djilga,

64
in

with

the

the

storm

march,

fatiguing

Tagh-Ata

176

61

Kirghiz pastoral, 65 ;
of the Pamirski-post, 67

China, 79

176

Rungof

legend

Lamp,"

Kara-

Pamirs.

the

towards

59

"European"

Koumiss,"
Ku-Rundi,

the

to

in

ascent

174

"

Kirghiz

descent

night

evening

185

Koh-Mu"nak,
36
Kokand,
Korne"-Tartik,

40

in

the

44

Pass

caravan

54

frontier

75
Kizil-Robat,
Kizil-Su, the, 46. 48
Kizil- Yar,
defile "). 127
(" Red
212
Koaznovodsk.
Koh-i-Kuadja, 191, 203, 206
182
and
note,
Koh-i-Malek-Siah,

174,

the

experiments

and

38

Horsemen,

38

World,"

Kul,

"

114.

39

wall

the

before

35
the

Iskandar

of the

35

Art

Kul.

140

Koh-i-Naru,
Koh-i-Sultan,
Koh-i-Tuftan,

37

defile, 47 ; the first

49 ; descent
the
of
Pamirs,
sight
51 ;
Kizil-Art
the
from
Pass,
view
the
Pass of Oo"-Bulak,
from
52

Kilyang, 82, 110, 112,

Kirghiz Family, a, 42

21

gramophone,
to Ask-

way

from

Khatin

note

6, 8, 22
Khudjer-Ab, 80, 82
the
Khul-Mahmad,

Kurgan,

36

Roof

The

family,
of the,

Khorassan,

Kirtaka,

"

starts

139
Khartsha,
4
Khatun-Abad,
Khatin-Art
defile, 47

Kizil-

Zabieha,

of

probable plans,

Pass

Khodjabad,

M.

Interpreter,

Kharchan-Beg,
Khardong, 140
Khardong,

witchery

Askhabad,
the
Oases,

at

the

of

29;

the

on

33

habad,

Madan,

City of Meshed,

ruins of Kutchan,

the

152

Kashmere,

13

Madan,

to

Holy

; the

16

103

Kashgar,

Kirghiz

road

the

110

note,

168

Karodak,

an

stiff climb,

grand ballet,
the
Valley of
Liam-Lyung,
113;

fording
the

Kara-Kash,
116;
of
Shah-i-Dulah,

117;

;
an

encampment

plateau,
antelope

(215)

119

on
a

horse

hunting,

121

desert

shot,
;

121

trouble

INDEX
the

with

; the

jaz-Djilga,124
;

of

Dapsang,

the

128

136

137

flocks, 138

139

the

to
144

idyll, 149

of

the

valley of
Srinagar, the

the

banks

the

150

on

151

in

152

the

153
154

157

Loris

great
ruined

180
a

Nasretabad,
2^hidan,
CharistaU;
view, 197
198

187

fort,

Haozdar

Merv,

189
192

Mirage,

of

Mollah-

of

Mollah
;

200

storm,

the

to

return

Festival
the
202 ;
Nasretabad,
203 ; at Afzelaof St. Nicholas,

bad, 204 ;
the
205;
207; Neh,

finishingthe
142,

Ladak,
Lamas,

Langar,

loop

at

M., 22, 211

19
Ali, the landlord,
The
Beg, 89, 90,
-Ibrahim,

of

caravan,

20

Mussah-el-Kazim,

21 1

Muz-Tagh, 80
Muz-Tagh-Ata,

150

142.

N
Nadir

Naizar,

(216)

of

and

Persia, 2.
note

the, 84, 86. 87

87

145

note

65

Shah

Muzafifaru'ddin,
198, 210

Bandan,

Meshed,

209
Mood,
the, 50 and
Moufflon,
57, 58
Moz-Kul,
River, 59
Moz-Kul,

Mukur-Chechak-Chi,
127
Murgo-Bulak,

Birjand, 209;

208;

168

Organisation of, 146

Refuge of, 42

Langar-Mazar,
Lasghird, 9
Leh.

picturesque

fortress

192

of, 17

91

Afghan territory,
Teheran,
a
telegram from
river
navigation, 199 ; a
on

note,

Molitor.

marvellous

21

note.

12

Mil-i-Kazimabad,
Mines, Working
29
Mir-Abad,

at

ruins

the

note

35

Meyame",

the

ruins

the

reception

195

183

of, 13

Lake

and

Melons,
171
Merui,
2, 6, 10, 20
Meshed,
22-4, 204, 211

172
desert,"
;
176 ; a hurricane,
of water,
of Saindak,
station
at the
181 ;
an
evening at Robat,

picture,

Salt

10

the

moonlight

198

169

149

11

Mehmandust,
Meizanan,

Ramzan

opium-smoker,
in

death

want

168

home,

the

Khan,

178

at
the

with

28, 45, 47, 60

Forms
of, 24,

176
Mashki-Shah,
Mastung, 157, 162
Mazar
Gudari, the, 72

departs
arrival

interview

Marriage,

the
158;
Baluchistan,
the
160 ;
of
Kelat,
164
Baluchi
Desert,
; the
168 ;
of
Karodak,
thana
from

news

Marmots,

of

159

note

d'Apchier le, 2,
Maugin, Count
36
Marghilan,
Market-day, 97

of

Khan

"

155

and

the, 35
Mt., 48

arajah,
Mah-

the

to

Baluchistan,

117

Makedon,
Malakans,
Maltabar,

Indus,
Sindh,

Iskandar

Mecca,

towards

Kelat,

visit

of

Khan

Mahmud

plans,

Venice

157

Benn,

visit

148

196

of, 10, 13,

16

istics
character-

future

Madan,

Spitok,

Tibetans,

the

of

Tibetan

India,

of

great lamasery
at
Leh, 147 ;

the,

Expedition,
Turquoise mines

MacMahon

Major

142
a

of

palace

143

mail,

the

of

arrival

189

of

Ladak,

of

160

Lutak,

the

banks

the
the

Loris,

at

of

return

Kings

ancient

the

the

at.

112

River,
the, 122

Lob-Nor,

Red

reception

along

Shayok,

the

at

Gsmmissioner

English

Liam-Lyung

Shayok,
Leh, 135
Panamik,

from

"

river

the

quaint

Taghar,

kettle,

plateau

the

divinity

the

messenger

strange

126

127

defile,"

of

crossing

124

the

135

the

and

comb-merchant

Leh,

; Chudstory of the

123

caravaneers,

Shah,

190

205.

207

INDEX
the Valley of the, 77, 80,
Raskem,
81, 86, 104, 119, 120, 122
155
Rawal-Pindi,

(evening prayer),

the

Namaz-gar,
66

184,

Nasretabad,
201, 202,
Naus,

189,

190,

198,

Glacier, the, 133

20 and
Reza, the, Iman,
note, 23, 30
Riabkof",
Colonel, 38
181
Robat.
Roof
of the World,"
the. 38, 58
Rud-i-Se"stan,
196, 198
Remo

206
22

Mr.,
208

Neh.

Nekrassof,

204

M.,

Nicholas,
150
Nimo,

"

St., 203

of

Feast

Ruzi.

176

Nok-Kundi,

the, 58, 59, 63

61, 62, 63, 64, 79

Rung-Kul,

20

Nishapur,

Life, 41

Nomadic

179

Nowar-Bargar,

Wells, the, 187

the River,
133, 134, 136, 139
Nubra,
Nushki,
157, 162, 163, 169
Nowar

209

Sahalabad,

Saindak,
179, 180
Salt
Mountains,"
35
Samarkand,
"

the, 5

54
spouts,
Sant-Ram,
143, 145, 147, 150
Sari-MoUah,
61, 65
47
Sari-Tash,
Sarikol
River, 77, 78, 84, 85, 87
Sarikolis, the, 82, 111 note
110
Sasan,

Sand

Ooj-Bulak,

Pass

of, 52
6, 169
38, 42. 46, 52 note,

Opium-smoking,
Osh,

36, 37 note,

62

151

Sasser,

the

185

the,
Mountains,

Pamir

Saspul,

167

Padag,

Palan-Koh,

Entrance

of

the,

-La, the, 128

the, 21, 211
Schneider,
Dr., 2, 22
11
Sed-Abad,

Saughi-Best,

the, 47

to

Pamirski-Post

Road,
the,
61, 63, 65, 67, 68
Panamik.
134, 135

45,

50

note,

Partridges,
Patterson,

29
Seid-Abad,
Se"d-Hassan,
80, 82, 83
Se"stan, the, 157, 163, 190

197

Captain,

143

189
Sekoha,
209
Ser-Bisheh,

Pigeons,

33
Wild,
Pilgrim Stones," the, 29, 30
Pilgrims, 6, 21, 32, 205
"

Pyla" Caspiae," Pass

Plan

chain

Sasser

84

Pamirs,

"

glacier

126

the, 36, 39, 49-75,

for

Route,

Poskam,

105

Post-caravansaries,
Post-Hummai

note

Shakal

station, the, 170

28
Shan-Kaleh,
65
note
Shah-Tan,
209
Shanket-el-Mulk,
River,
128. 136, 139
Shayok,
10
Sheerazad,
Sheikh-Hassan
Mountain,
the,

138

River,

67

Q
Quetta, 156,

157

Shellah

Rahim-Berdi,

the

78, 205
Raids, Turkoman,
Ramzan

169,

Khan,

12

Sharud,

station,- 177

Prayer-mills,
Pshart

of, 6

of, 106

Bazar,

Lake

Sha-i-Dulah,
Shah-i-Dulah,

39

Legend

Poskam

of the, 72
115, 116
116, 126
68, 69
Shah-Djan,
Shah-Mahomed-Reza,
181. 188
Shah-Sandan,
174, 175
the

Serpent,

guide,

69,

72

Sher-Jan,
169,
186,

8
the

steward,

Canal,
the

173,

the,
camel

175,

driver,
176,
177,

187

Sherif-Abad,
4, 21, 211
Shur-Ab,
13, 19

163,

170

(217)

166

186

162,
179,

INDEX

111

23,

the,

Mussulmans,

Shiite

Trade

82,

the,

note

Trans

152

Sindh,
Valley of the,
15
Solamanieh,

nqte
Ala", Chain

Transcaucasian

Tung,

Sorkhay,
Sotag station, the, 170,

of the, 47, 49, 52

Spango,
Spinella, Mr., 31
Lamasery
Spitok, the

of,

176

the

of, 87

Mayor
17

Turquoise rock,

150

the Yusbashi
Turu-Su,
133
Tuti-Yalak,

153

Srinagar. 143,

Srinagar, the Maharajah of, 154

of the, 61
Stone
Legend
Lamp,"

the, 2

the, 8
84, 87

Turkomans,
Turlan-Shah,
Turlan-Shah,

144,

35

the,

Beg of, 86
Railway, the, 27

the

Turkestan

171

134

Desert,

Railway,

174,

Tratoh,

42

Soot-Bulak,

Baluchi

166

Transcaspian Railway,

209

Soosp,

of the

Route

of, 115,

116

"

45

Sufi- Kurgan,

118
W

23

Nishapur,

of

governor

Ware.

note

Sykes. Major, 22, 211

Syr Daria. the Valley

Taghar,
"

of

the, 38

(Head

of

45, 80

Taldik, the,
190
Tamerlane,
89, 90
the,
Tang-i-Tar,
126, 128
Tash-Gumbaz,
79, 80, 82, 83, 84
Tash-Kurgan,
TashAmban
of, 83, 85,
Kurgan,

Yalguz-Tograk,

150.
Yussuf.

Terek-Davan

Tigerak,
Tombs,

Sir Francis,

153
the

caravaneer,

124,

125,

140

115

2, 198
Road,

Teri-Art, 91
Tibet, 134
Tibetan
House,

Colonel

Younghusband,

Tashkend,
36, 37. 39
Tavar, Miss, 80
Teheran,

95

the, 86
Yamen,
the, 93
Yamond-Tars,
86, 97, 98-101
Yarkand,

86

Tegarmanlik,

182

Captain,

the, 112, 141

Yak,
96
Yakka-Arik,
107
Yakshambi-Bazar,

the

12

Merchantmen),

note

of, 18

of, 72, 77

Glaciers
"

166

Method
Rocks,
rivers, 170

Waterless

136

Taguir-Bashi

Captain Webb,

Washing
White,

Tagdumbash,

69

Volosno"e,

of, 118

Pass

Sughet Da van.
Sughet- Kurgan,
Suri,

37

General,

Subotitch,

a,

M.,
36, 43, 44, 47, 48,
Zabieha,
53, 56, 59, 62, 63, 65, 66, 71,
81, 82. 86, 100, 109, 114, 118,
120, 121, 123, 135, 141, 150, 153,
156, 167, 171, 175, 178, 192, 194.
202. 205, 208, 212

45

134

45
23

Pass, the, 89
210
Torbet-i-Heidari.
53,
a
Torta-Sin,
hunter,
58, 60, 66
Tortoises, 13, 14

Zadgar

Tor-Bashi

Zodji-La,
55,

Zafir-Abab,

56,

167

152
30

192
Zahidan,
Zoroaster, 97

THE

Printed

Shah,

by Sir Isaac

END.

Pitman

(2134)

"

Sons, Ltd.,Bath.

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APR
APR

1934

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