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Details related to Fabric such as face side /Shade bands etc..Shade swatches along with
the face side swatch approved by the buyer should be received from the Godown and
Merchandising dept respectively.Shade segregation should be complying with the
approved swatches.Verify whether the shade segregation is matching to the
standard.Approval from H/office mandatory if the received lots of fabric are not matching
to standards.The approval must have a checklist form for all the tests & approval
standards w. r. t colour, wash,embroidery, printing, hand feelShade band details (Shade A,
B, C, D) after verification should be received from fabric inspector &spreading team also
should be given a copy for reference.Shade grouping also must be received from the
fabric godown.Fabric details such as to face/back, nap direction; hand feel should be
received from the godown dulyapproved by the merchant.Shade wise/widthwise
segregated rolls only should be received, checked & then should proceed forlaying.Both
ends of every roll should have sticker consisting details of shade no, roll no, width and
otherrelevant detail to enable easy identification of rolls.Cutting Forecast shade
wiseCuttable quantities from each lot and shade should be informed to marketing, QA, &
Buyer QA inadvance for approval.Cutting of rolls/bales should be done shade wise as per
the breakdown of the PO
type, bed shapes and automation thats possible. Attachments Attachment help
in simplifying and reducing the work content and to increase line balancing
efficiency. Special work aids- Special work aids can be used to simplify/reduce
the work content. Fabric consumption- Fabric being 70% of the garment cost is
vitally important to monitor and if the engineering is done properly we can
certainly expect to save fabric or reduce consumptions. Cutting- how should it be
done- we do not have Tailors now, we have operators instead and they should be
working with clippers in their hands Finishing- Finishing is the last link of the
value chain which is essential for p erformance point of view. SOFT ( NIFT,
Pune )
CAD DEPARTMENT Receiving tech pack: Tech pack is received from Head
office that contains all the information regarding the style illustration, size, trims,
colors, stitch and seam class, fit, sampling details, and packing and finishing
details. Make basic pattern: Basic pattern is made manually by pattern master in
one base size. Digitizing: This base size is then digitized on the Gerber digitizer
board. Grading: After digitizing, its transferred to the computer on Gerber pattern
design studio. Patterns initially are made in only one size. We need to
proportionally increase or decrease the size of a pattern, while maintaining shape,
fit, balance and scale of style details. Getting correct fit and drape of a garment
but also maintain the measurements as graded specs is essential. Using the CAD
system, the pattern is resized according to a predetermined table of sizing
increments (or "grade rules"). The computerized plotter can then print out the
pattern in each size. Incorporating shrinkage in pattern grading - - First fabric has
to be relaxed so that there is no tension or strain during rolling or unrolling while
layering or cutting. This will ensure that there is minimum shrinkage in garments.
So unwashed garments are made with additional shrinkage tolerance included so
that they gain their original measurements after washing. Woven fabric garments
shrink about 2-3%. This shrinkage incorporated in patterns could be lengthwise or
width wise depending on type of fabric. SOFT ( NIFT, Pune )
Shrinkage adjusting Shrinkage adjustments should not distort the original shape
and balance of the patterns. When shrinkage is applied to a panel in garment all
corresponding patterns must also be applied with shrinkage adjustments. The
picture on the left shows how a garment panel looks like after it has been scanned
and graded. Gerber plotter printing: The patterns are then printed on the Gerber
plotter. They are then pasted to thick aortic sheets and converted into full fledged
patterns. Send patterns to cutting department OTHER CONSIDERATIONS
Efficiency: Marker plans indicate efficiency of the cutting process i.e. the
efficiency of fabric consumption. Lay plan: determines the no. of lays required
to cut the specified quantity in the predetermined size ratio. Precision in checks
in stripes SOFT ( NIFT, Pune )
FABRIC STORE This is the most important department of the unit, where in the
quality and quantity of fabric is inspected as soon as it is received in the store,
along with storing and maintaining stock levels and ensuring to stock up in proper
clean way. When the fabric is in-house, it should be capable of being supplied to
the cutting department. Inspection is done prior the cutting room issue so as to
characteristics are consistent, then the patterns may be designed to the correct
oversize and sampling checks for consistent shrinkage carried out. Color changes
can also occur at the time of fusing as the temperatures might have been
controlled or were out of the prescribed limits. E .g Size of the fabric= 100 * 100
Or 50 * 50 According to the above picture, a fabric piece of the above mentioned
specification is cut and marked accordingly. Then a wash with a soft enzyme is
given. The deviation is shrinkage if any is marked between the points. Shrinkage
of 1-1.5 cm is acceptable. If it is more than this then the merchandiser is supposed
to take the desired action. SOFT ( NIFT, Pune )
o Color Fastness or Crocking: In order to check color fastness, 2 fabric swatches
are taken. On 1 of the swatch, a white seam is put on all the four sides of the
fabric. Both of the them are washed and the results are compared. If it is stained
or slotted then its rejected. o C.S or Centre Selvedge test: This test is used to
check the color variation in the fabric. Full width of the fabric is taken (length can
vary according to requirement say 10). The Fabric is divided into 6 pieces and
their grain line is marked. These pieces are then cut and re stitched in a random
series. For e.g. 3, 6, 2, 5, 4, 1. When we arrange these fabric pieces in a series, we
can see the shade variation in the same fabric. Noting of this variation is very
important at the time of cutting. Maximum CS is seen in solid/printed fabrics as
compared to stripes and checks. o Others include dry clean and washability,
abrasion resistance, pilling (especially for mixed fibers), Bow and skew (using a
ruler and set square for checks and stripes), Drape and crease resistance (that
includes permanent press capability), Strength (tensile, tear and bursting (for
seams), Flammability, Surface wetting and penetration. FABRIC DEFECTS o
Abrasion Mark: A place in the fabric where the surface has been damaged due to
friction or abnormally weakened by any operation through which it has been
passed. o Misprint: In printed fabrics, either missed, or partially missed, or
incorrectly positioned relative to each other. o Double Pick: Two yarns running
simultaneously, mostly in the weft yarn. SOFT ( NIFT, Pune )
o o o o o o o o o o o Oil Stain: Oil mark on the fabric. Hole: A breakage of yarns
in the fabric involving more than two yarns. Bow: When the weft/filling yarns lie
in an arc across the width of the fabric. Skew: Distortion in the construction of the
fabric i.e. in the yarn that constitute the fabric. Crease: A fabric defect across the
fabric width usually caused by a sharp fold. Dye Stain: An area of discoloration
due to uneven absorption of colorant. Miss-pick: A pick/weft yarn not properly
interlaced. Slubs: An abruptly thickened place in a yarn. Screen Out: The
appearance of a colored separation line in a printed design. Calendar Line: Sharp
pressmark on fabric due to the calendar during the processing. Contamination:
Colored fibers with the warp or weft fibers. Name of suppliers V.C.M synthetics,
Symbolic fabrics, Arvind mills, Ashok weaving, Vaibhav trading, Siyarams, J
Hampstead. SOFT ( NIFT, Pune )
TRIMS STORES This store is responsible for storing and neatly maintaining the
trims received from the suppliers, approved by H/O. Trims card to be readily
available for each of the PO/style being processed that is duly approved by the
nominated quality assurance person. WORKFLOW OF TRIMS STORE
Receive W/O Purchase dept issues D/O to supplier Challan Make trims card
pierces thread through the layers of the cloth and interlocks the thread. Industrial
Sewing Industrial sewing is quite a complex process involving many preparations
and mathematical calculations for the perfect seam quality. Good quality sewing
also depends on the sound technical knowledge that goes into pattern designing
and making. Flat sheets of fabric having holes and slits into it can curve and fold
in three-dimensional shapes in very complex ways that require a high level of
skill and experience to manipulate into a smooth, wrinkle-free design. Aligning
the patterns printed or woven into the fabric also complicates the design process.
Once a clothing designer, with the help of his technical knowledge, makes the
initial specifications and markers, the fabric is then cut using templates and sewn.
These undesirable variations in the cloth tension affect the product quality.
Therefore, there arises the need of strict control over the whole process. The work
of sewing is focused on the handling of fabrics lying on the working table and
guide them towards the sewing machines needle along the seam line. The
attention is equally focused on the control of appropriate tensional force so as to
maintain high quality seam. Pre sewing functions Before the actual task of sewing
begins, there are certain other tasks that have to be taken care of which can be
termed as fabric handling functions - Ply separation; Placing the fabric on
working table; Guiding the fabric towards sewing needle; and tension control of
fabric during the sewing process. When the fabric is placed on the working table,
the tasks that are performed before the sewing process include - recognizing the
fabric's shape, edges that will be sewn, planning of the sewing process and
identification of the seam line. Fabric Edges to be sewn There are two basic types
of stitches - one is that are for joining two parts of cloth together and the second
one is done for decorative purposes. Sometimes, both types of stitching have to be
done on some parts of cloth, for example, a denim pocket has to be joined on
three sides with the apparel as well as it may be given some decorative stitches
too. At what points and which type of stitching has to be done- all such
information is decided by the industrial engineering department and accordingly
sewn. Planning of sewing process SOFT ( NIFT, Pune )
Sequence of seams to be stitched is determined before the sewing starts. Which
part will be joined first, what stitches will follow one another, etc. are decided.
However, some stitches have to be necessarily done before or after another stitch.
In the example above, the decorative stitches must be done first followed by the
joining stitches. Identification of seam lines Sewing process is performed on seam
lines situated inside the fabric edges, some millimeters inside the fabric's outer
line. For the straight lines, the seam line is found by transferring the outer lines
inside the fabrics i.e. the seam line is parallel to the outer edge and the distance
between the two has to be determined as it is different for different parts of the
cloth. Seam allowance is the area between the edge of the fabric and the line of
stitching. Sewing Fabrics The sewing process consists of mainly three functions guiding fabric towards needle; sewing of the fabric edge; and rotation around the
needle. The fabric is guided along the sewing line with a certain speed that is in
harmony with the speed of sewing machine The orientation error is either
manually monitored or if monitored automatically then error is fed to the machine
controller so that the machine corrects the orientation of the fabrics. When one
edge of seam line is sewed, the fabric is rotated around the needle till the next
edge of the seam line coincides with the sewing line. The sewing process is thus
repeated until all the edges of seam line planned for sewing, are sewed.
Significant Aspects of Sewing There are certain aspects that have to be carefully
considered while the sewing process as they are very crucial for high quality
sewing. Thread tension and consumption: Correct balancing of the stitch and the
tension given to the threads is very important for quality stitch formation. Thread
consumption, which is closely associated with correct stitch geometry and thread
tension, is usually measured by digital encoders. Presser- foot displacement and
compressing force: Presser- foot is the part of the sewing machine that holds the
fabric in place as it is being sewn and fed through by the feeder. The feeding
system is one of the most important constituting systems of the sewing machine.
If this system is not efficient then it results into irregular seams and many other
defects, especially when running on high speed. To evaluate feeding efficiency,
the force on the presser foot is measured with the help of electric or other sensors.
Needle penetration force measurement: The interaction of needle with fabric is
very crucial. Fault-free needle penetration depends chiefly on the properties of
fabric and needle choice. Needle penetration force is one of the variables whose
measurement is important for the SOFT ( NIFT, Pune )
analysis of quality problems or "sewability testing" and also quality monitoring. It
takes various factors into consideration, such as the needle geometry (including
the point angle and point length of the needle), the friction between the needle and
the fabric, the friction between the needle eye and the thread along with fabrics'
property, and the sewing conditions. ACCEPTABLE QUALITY LEVEL (AQL)
Quality measurre The AQL (Acceptable Quality Level) is the maximum per cent
defective that for the purpose of sampling inspection can be considered
satisfactory as a process average. In inspection how much percentage of defective
pieces will be accepted, depends on acceptable quality level The AQL level varies
process to process, product to product and even buyer to buyer. Sample size Code
letter: This code is indicative a range of batch size. (Code 'G' means your lot size
range is from 151 pieces to 280 pieces. Sample size: It means that how many
pieces will be picked up for inspection from the total offered pieces (Batch). Ac
(Accepted): The number in this column denotes that if the inspector finds up to
that much defective pieces the shipment will be accepted by buyer. Re (Rejected):
On the other hand number in this column denotes that if the inspector finds that
much defective pieces or more than the listed number, the shipment will be
rejected (or asked to the manufacturer for 100% inspection and re-offer for final
inspection) by buyer. Example: Suppose you have been offered a shipment of
1000 pieces for inspection. Select the range from table, it is 501-1200. Now from
table you have to select number of sample you are going to actually inspect.
According the above table you will select 80 pieces out of 1000 pieces. Now
assume that you are inspecting at 2.5 AQL. So, after inspecting all 80 pieces if
you find 5 or less than 5 defective pieces will accept the shipment. And if you find
6 or more than 6 defective pieces in 80 samples you will reject that shipment. Lot
or Batch size Size Code Sample Size 28 A 9 15 B 2 3 Acceptable Quality level
2.5 4.0 6.5 Ac Re Ac Re Ac Re 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 SOFT ( NIFT, Pune )
securely clinched 3. Top of zipper not caught in band 4. Either side of fly extends
past other side by excessive amount. 1. Labels are not correct, text and/or layout
2. Located at incorrect location 3. Insecurely attached to the garment Garment
inspection procedures : During the course of garment production, i.e right from
cutting to final dispatch, Oxemberg QAD team will conduct various inspections
as follows: 1. Inline/mid inspection : This will be carried out during the
production of garment in order to carry out this inspection effectively following
information is a must. A) Updated W/O sheet B) Style approved, saple approved
by the merchandiser C) Fabric, trims and accessories cards rectified by the
merchandiser. D) Approved measurement specification. SOFT ( NIFT, Pune )
2. Random final audit or inspection : this will be carried out when goods are in the
pressing and packing till its completion. Oxemberg QAD team will carry out
random audit at AQL 4 inorder to make this audit a truly effective tool, since it is
the last check point before dispatch, following information is essential. A) All the
line detail information mentioned there in plus. B) Washed approved samples ( in
case of washed order). C) Packing list wherever applicable. PRODUCTION
PLANNING, SCHEDULING AND CONTROLLING i. Planning: This involves a
long term overview around the year, based on market forecast. An agreement is
necessary about whether the production unit can cope up with the expected sales,
in terms of overall volume and in terms of specialized plant and operatives. The
action is required of relevant departments to revise the plan, purchase the
necessary machinery, train staff, obtain new premises or lease off unwanted ones,
buying additional capacity from other manufacturers etc. ii. Scheduling: The work
is allocated to the production capacity according to the agreed plan as soon as the
orders are confirmed. It is at this stage that schedules are prepared as an exercise
and later drafted in detail. iii. Controlling: The production process is very
uncertain and rarely goes according to the schedule, especially when the processes
are complex and dependent on the performance of individuals. Sometimes orders
are cancelled and rush orders come through. Inefficiency can be avoided if the
preliminary work is done thoroughly and the routine terms are accurately
recorded. Balancing is a part of the process. KEY FACTORS IN
CONTROLING AND SCHEDULING i.Time/ unit input: e.g. meters of cloth or
SAM of work per minute. SOFT ( NIFT, Pune )
ii.Work in process delays: Extension in output time is necessary to provide buffer
against fluctuations in output where the no. of processes involved are many.
iii.Technical maintenance: Proper usage and maintenance of the machines and
other electronically equipments should be done to provide smooth operation
processes. iv.Employee Training: The employees should be trained efficiently to
increase production efficiency and reduce wastage. v.Non productive hours: A
provision for non-productive hours should be provided in the total available
minutes as these by default are bound to happen. For e.g. lunch time, talking,
going to washroom, sitting idle etc. These hours can be deceased by making
changes in the production plan wisely. vi.Line balancing: This is necessary to
reduce the wastage of time as some workers might be sitting idle because the
feeding has not been done properly and the pieces are not being delivered to them
on time. The overall operation machine layout is faulty due to improper line
are an important task for this department. The Product information sheet for
individual styles can be kept as brief as possible. They should contain the
maximum information in the form of sketches and all dimensions should me
quoted with tolerances. Tolerances reflect the extent to which less than perfect is
acceptable. However, small tolerances exist for the garments. The function of the
quality control department is to reduce the amount of bad work being made. This
gives savings in cost of the repairs and rejects but also speeds up delivery. Its aim
is to make garments correctly at the first time. When the consistency of quality is
poor, the expected quality level is substantially below standard. Greater
consistency has an even higher priority than raising the standard of the majority of
the garments made. Tolerances These are the limits of acceptability expressed in
figures usually or by examples or photographs to demonstrate the limits of
acceptability. For example, the specification for a seam margin may be 1 cm and
the tolerance is -/+2 mm. SOFT ( NIFT, Pune )
Quality characteristics Quality of design requires higher amount of market
research to establish what is the ultimate customers preference at an acceptable
price amongst a competitive set of characteristics. These can form the basis for
design. Customers demand various combinations of the following, in various
orders of importance: Price and value for
money Individuality of appearance Fashion is appropriate to the period and group
Image enhancement (e. g reliability of an executives suit, smartness for the air
hostess etc) Comfort in wear, both from cut and fabric Durability of function and
appearance Psychological qualities(waterproofing, warmth, sweat absorption etc)
Ease of Care (crease and stain resistance, shape retention, washability etc) Size
and shape Consistency of the product The production incharge must stick to the
specifications and should also consider the needs of the retailers like: Consistency
(means to achieve the required quality level, the will to confirm of Management
and workforce, maintaining the specifications with tolerances). Delivery on time
Lower cost to support competitive price. Quality Specifications o Factory
specifications Cloth and trimmings, button spacing Threads, needle
types and sizes, by fabric and seam type Stitches per inch or per 2 cms Seam
types, seam margins and tolerances Cutting standards o Style or garment
specifications Items of difference Special size ranges and grading Key
features and quality points SOFT ( NIFT, Pune )
Special tolerances Fabric and trimmings, colors and shades ( shade cards
checked regularly for fading) Department wise quality system in factory 1)
FABRIC STORES: o Neatly arrange the fabric rolls received and maintaining the
department cleanliness to avoid spotting and contamination of the fabrics.
Packing the fabrics in plastic sheets can be useful. o Fabric inspection is done on
4 point system. o Shade cards/fabric quality swatches for each style approved by
the PO are maintained. 2) TRIMS STORES: o Trims stores have racking system
to store the trims in a proper order. o Trims card for each PO/style being
processed should be maintained. 3) CUTTING SECTION: o Making CSV
( centre to selvedge variation) sample for each of the roll to analyze the shade
variation. o Maintaining shade samples and providing shade details to
presentation checkers in finishing dept for shade reference. o Proper pattern
fabric checking is done. Fabrics are checked in flat table, flat table with light box
or on fabric checking machine. 4 point system for fabric inspection is used to
measure the quality level of the incoming fabric. 2. Trims & Accessory: Trims
quality is also very important for having a quality garment. Trims inspection is
done randomly against the given standards, like color matching. But for trims and
accessories quantity checking is essential. 3. Cutting Room: It is said that cutting
is the heart of production. If cutting is done well then chances of occurring defects
in the following processes comes down. In cutting room, check points are I)
marker checking, ii) cut part audit and iii) bundle checking. SOFT ( NIFT, Pune )
4. Embroidery checking: It is also not a compulsory process. If there is
embroidery work in the garment panels then 100% inspection is done before
issuing to sewing. 5. Sewing Department: Checkpoints in the sewing departments
are as following. - Inline inspection: In assembly line generally check pints are
kept for the critical operations. In these checkpoints, 100% checking is done for
partially stitched garments and defect free pieces are forwarded to the next
process. - Roaming inspection: In this case checkers roam around the line and
randomly check pieces at each operation. - End of line inspection or table
checking: A checker checks completely stitched garment at the end of the line.
100% checking is done here. - Audit of the checked pieces: 100% inspected
garment are sent to finishing from sewing department. And all defective pieces
are repaired before sending to finishing. 6. Finishing Department: Check points in
finishing department consists - Initial finishing inspection: checking done prior to
pressing of the garment at finishing room is known as initial finishing. - Final
finishing Inspection: After pressing garments are again checked and passed for
tagging and packing. - Internal final audit: After garments are packed up to certain
quantity, quality control team, does audit of packed garments. This process is
carried out to ensure that before handing over shipment. If the completed work is
being checked at each process and defective pieces are corrected before handing
to the next process than at the end of production there is very little chance to have
a defective at final inspection stage. SOFT ( NIFT, Pune )
FINISHING DEPARTMENT The finishing process includes all those activities
concerned with making the appearance of the fabric more presentable. It includes
activities like stain removal, thread trimmings, washing, ironing, tagging, and
hanger alignment. Bartack: Putting barracks on loops, pockets etc. Washing:
Sometimes, the buyers demand that garments must be given a wash after
stitching. Button, button hole and rivet attach Extra Thread trimming: The extra
threads which have been left uncut are trimmed. This can be done manually with
thread cutters. Stain removal: Different types of stains might be formed at the
time of garment handling operations. Different kinds of stains include ball point
stains, oil stains, dirt stains etc. Different kinds of chemicals are used for their
removal. For example, Ball point stain is removed with ink remover, stains on
white fabrics are removed with a chemical called Ariel lines, Ltk-45 is used for
removing yellow and black stains from colored fabrics, N-9 is used to remove
stains on light colored fabrics, Emrol-ol and petrol is used to remove other hard
stains. Thread sucking : this is done to remove the threads stuck to the fabric
surface that are too minute to remove. For this, a thread sucking machine is used
to remove threads with air blow and vaccum sucking. Also, adhesive tapes are
wrapped on rolls and then moved over the garments, especially in trouser
finishing this step is essential. SOFT ( NIFT, Pune )
End of line inspection:Garments are compared against measurements and
tollerences, defects, loose and misaligned threads and buttons, open seams etc.
Alteration: Any garment found faulty of defects will be sent for alteration.
Ironing: After all these steps, the garments are ironed in a proper manner, folding
on the right creases. Steam ironing is preferred. The garment measurements are
continuously monitored at the time of ironing also. The garments can be shrunk or
stretched to some extent in case the measurements go beyond the tolerance levels.
Ironing depends upon the type of fabric viz. knitted or woven. Knitted garments
require light pressing where as wovens require deliberate wrinkle removal and
crease setting. A dolly or body form press is also used to trouser pressing.
WORKFLOW OF FINISHING Bartack and buttonholing Washing Button and
rivet attatch Thread sucking Stain removal Thread trimming End of line
inspection Alteration Ironing Warehousing Packing Tagging and stickering
TYPES OF DEFECTS I. PATTERN DEFECTS IN GARMENTS: (CAD) Some
parts of pattern are missing, probably because the marker did not include the
correct number of parts. SOFT ( NIFT, Pune )
Mixed parts, probably because the marker is not correctly labeled, resulting in a
marriage of wrong sized parts. Patterns not facing in correct direction on napped
fabrics. Patterns not aligned with respect to the fabric grain. Poor line
definition (e.g. too thick chalk; indistinctly printed line, perforated lay not
powdered) leading to inaccurate cutting. Skimpy marking, caused by either the
marker did not use the outside edge of the pattern; or the pattern was moved or
swung after partial marking to squeeze the pattern into a smaller space for
economizing the fabric. The pattern may have worn out edges. Generous
marking, especially in combination with skimpy marking results in components
being sewn together with puckering and pleating. When the marker is too wide,
the garment parts at the edges of the lay get cut with bits missing. Not enough
knife clearance freedom. Wrong check matching, i.e. lines across the seam are
not matching. Wrong checks boxing i.e. checks are not showing a full/partial
box across the seam. Notches and drill marks omitted, indistinct or misplaced.
II. SPREADING DEFECTS IN GARMENTS Not enough plies to cover quantity
of garments required. Plies misaligned, resulting in garment parts getting cut
with bits missing in some plies at the edge of the spread. Narrow fabric width,
causes garment parts at the edge of the lay getting cut with bits missing.
Incorrect tension of plies, i.e. fabric spread too tight or too loose. This will result
in parts not fitting in sewing, and finished garments not meeting size tolerances.
Not all plies facing in correct direction (whether 'one way' as with nap, or 'one
way either way' as with some check designs). This happens when fabric is not
spread face down, face up, or face to face as required. Unacceptable damages in
the garment parts. Parts not fully included owing to splicing errors. Spread
matching finished look and similar hand feel. 2. Fresh fabric usage for Part
changing: SOFT ( NIFT, Pune )
If there are not enough end bits to replace the damaged parts from the garment,
then available fresh fabric is used. Only use fresh fabric if there is no problem
with shade matching otherwise it will increase the fabric consumption. But for
solid colors and yarn dyed fabric there is no issue related to shade matching. 3.
Using good components from other damaged garments: This option is chosen
when garments are dyed and there are no fresh fabric or end bits or fresh fabric
for that order. Also for the high value garment with fine hand embroidery work
and where you have less time to complete the shipment, this option is preferred.
Here we need to keep care of shade matching. SHIRT AND TROUSER
WASHING 1. Drum washing m/c (horizontal loading) Capacity: 98kg (big) 450
and 48kg (small). This machine is used for washing cotton shirts and trousers.
This machine can also be used for dyeing. Shirt 200 germs Trouser 700 germs
Denim 800 germs Garment Shirt Trousers 98kg m/c 350 pHs 200 pHs 48kg m/c
200 pHs 80pcs 2. Sample washing m/c (horizontal loading) Capacity: 8 kegs This
is used for washing the samples that are less in quantity. 3. Hydro extractor
(squeezing m/c) 4. Dryer (S.R.E engineering) Shirts 200 Trouser 60 pcs SOFT
( NIFT, Pune )
5. Steam boiler Gas, coal, thermal oil WASHES a. Softener wash ( enzyme
wash ) Its of 3 types ionic, non-ionic, and cationic. b. Enzyme wash OT, desizer,
lubricant, water washing at 52degrees, Acetic acid (pH), Enzyme (to stabilize),
Water wash, Silicon, softener. Power wash enzyme: Powdered enzyme is used
with ball beating Biofinish c. Detergent wash Ariel and tide d. Leather wash e.
Powder wash pumice in powder form f. Pumice stone wash PRECAUTIONS
FABRIC Pigment padded fabric White garment Worsted fabric Trouser Shirt
fabric Yarn dyed X No heavy wash is given because it can cause color bleeding.
No heavy wash No heavy wash Enzyme wash, leather wash can be given.
Enzyme wash. Beach ball wash, chlorine bleach ( caco2 + thermal balls) Heavy
wash DENIM WASHES o MACHINERY USED Front vertical loader m/c: (98kg,
150kg, 300 kg). SOFT ( NIFT, Pune )
1. Raw/Rinse wash: removal of sizing agent and then garment is rinsed, softener
is added and then dried in hydro. No fading process is done. 2. Raw resin: This is
done to fix the color onto the fabric and to make it wrinkle resistant. Catalyst,
softener and resin are added then ironing is done. 3. Denimix: After desizing,
enzymes (bio-degradable agent) are added (acidic/neutral) to give fading of color
(lighter tone). For fancy denims, scraping and tucking is used along with denimix.
Neutral (pH 6.5-7) Temp 45-55 degrees Neutral (pH 4.5-5.5) Temp 45-55 degrees
+ Acetic acid is added otherwise enzyme wont work 4. Stone washing
(bleaching): In this, chlorine bleach is used yellowness from fabric and to five
faded effect. Time required for bleach depends on the original sample/shade card.
Neutral ALCL3 or (H2o2 i.e. hydrogen peroxide, soda ash, soap, tinopol). After
stone washing, we can do brightening (with tinopol) to remove chlorine. 5. Ice
wash: Its similar to stone washing, but more qty of bleach is used. 6. Dyeing: The
denim is dyed in different color. After desizing, its bleached and then dyed.
Denimix and softening processes follow if required. 7. Pumice stone denimix:
After desizing, denimix wash is given and after that its abraded with pumice
stone. For denimix 40-120 grms/pc pumice stone has to be added and for stone
wash, denimix+bleaching is used. 8. Vintage: After denimix, we tint the denim
with direct dye or reactive dye. VALUE ADDED WASHES:1. Tucking : The
piece is tucked with the help of tucking machine at the place where we want to
have the wash effect. 2. Scraping: Sandpaper is used to scrap the fabric to reveal
the faded effect. 3. Spraying: Dyes are sprayed over the garment in different
angles and strokes to reveal the sprayed effect. 4. Whiskering: 5. Crinkling 6.
Crackle: The piece is tied at the place where we want to avoid color penetration in
pleats and then dyed. SOFT ( NIFT, Pune )
7. Grinding: Upper layer of the fabric is peeled/scrapped off with a grinding
machine. 8. Sandblasting: Pressurized compressed air with sand is blown on the
garment. 9. Ball blast: Its conducted into wooden m/c. bleach+caco3 power is
used. 10.G2: Its an advanced bleaching process done with ozone(O3). Bleaching
pressure is 240. If its done with chlorine bleach, it will become yellow. So, ozone
is used. 11.Pigment spray: Pigment dyes are sprayed over the denim. CASE
STUDY : Common Denim Seam Quality Defects 1. Broken Stitches - Needle
Cutting Where the thread is being broken where one seam crosses another seam
(ex: bar tacks on top of waistband stitching, seat seam on top of riser seam)
resulting in stitch failure. Minimizing broken stitches due to Needle Cutting
SOFT ( NIFT, Pune )
- Use a higher performance core spun thread - Use a larger diameter thread on
operations where the thread is being cut. - Make sure the proper stitch balance is
being used. On a chain stitch seam on denim, we should maintain a 60%/40%
relationship of Needle thread to looper thread in the Seam. - Use needles with the
correct needle point. - Change the needles at regular intervals on operations where
the Needle Cuts are occurring frequently. 2. Broken Stitches- washing procedures
Where thread on the stitch line is broken during stone-washing, sand blasting,
hand sanding, etc. Broken stitches must be repaired by re stitching over the top of
the stitch-line. Minimizing broken Stitches due to abrasion - Use a higher
performance core spun thread. SOFT ( NIFT, Pune )
- Use a larger diameter thread on operations where excessive abrasion is occurring
- Make sure stitches are balance properly, - Monitor the Finishing Cycle for
compliance to specs. 3. Broken Stitches by Chemical Degradation Where thread is
being compromised by the chemicals used during laundering resulting in loss or
change of color and seam failure. Minimizing broken stitches due to Chemical
Degradation: - Use a higher performance core spun thread that has greater
resistance to chemical degradation. - Using larger thread sizes when the Denim
Garments will be subject to Harsh Chemical washes. - Making sure that the water
temperatures and PH Levels are correct and that the proper amounts and sequence
of chemical dispersion are within guidelines. - Make sure the garments are being
rinsed properly to neutralize the chemicals in the SOFT ( NIFT, Pune )
fabric. - Monitor the drying process, cycle times, and temperatures to make sure
they are correct so that the best possible garment quality can be achieved. 4.
Unraveling Seams: Generally occurs on 401 chain stitch seams where either the
stitch has been broken or a skipped stitch has occurred. This will cause seam
finished stock meant of the final consumption. Material Handling This refers to
the handling of the goods ready for dispatch. They can be classified into:
Manual: This involves usage of human labour. This is restricted to areas with
unorganized plant layout and costs of movements. Mechanical: This involves
the use of machines driven by power like for e. g cranes, trucks, stackers, side
loaders, mobile cranes etc. these have more fixed costs if the capacity utilization
is less. SOFT ( NIFT, Pune )
Automatic: These are fully automatic operated by automatic machines and
computers. These require heavy capital investments. Transportation and
Dispatch When the garments are readily packed and arranged in
containers/cartoons, they are arranged buyer wise and shipment date wise. Right
dispatch time means right delivery time. Hence there should be no delay in
dispatching the goods from the manufacturers premises because delivery time
depends on the mode of transit viz. air, sea, and rail. The main aim should be
delivering the right product to the right place at the right time at economical costs.
Firms can attract lots of buyers by offering better service or lower prices through
physical distribution improvements. Similarly the profit margin for the
manufacturers will be increased by making this physical distribution more
effective and efficient. Effectiveness and efficiency will bring in economy and
this will thus affect the profit margins. This is because the price of the product
does not just include the cost of production but also the cost of delivery. The cost
of transportation is determined by the distance covered and the volume of goods.
Also, the performance of the transportation mode i.e. the speed/pace of movement
in kms /hr. Calculation of speed must take into account the total time from point
of start to point of destination. Packing mechanism in the factory:Inner boxes are
used to pack the pieces. 1 inner can have 50-60 pieces. These inners are again
packed in outer boxes. 1 box can have 3-5 inners. For example : Brand Oxemberg
Beach pebble MSD J Hampstead Qty 60 ics 48 pcs Inner packs pakaging 3 boxes
33pcs 48pcs The packing quantity per carton depends upon buyer specifications. o
Packing stratergies:1. MSD ( casual ) 1 small inner 12 shirts. So 1 big inner=5
inners = 60 shirts Jeans pack size ratio wise SOFT ( NIFT, Pune ) 60pcs
2. TROUSER ( oxemberg ) 1 inner = 16-17 pieces 3. o Storage: Racking is done
size wise, style wise, garment wise, sleeve length wise(half sleeves/full sleeves).
Each rack is given a rack no. Restickering according to buyer mentioned in
memo. o Storage capacity: Shirt: 80000-2,00,000 & Trousers and jeans 30,000
pcs o Distributor (MSD & Oxemberg) - S.V enterprises (Hyderabad) - A.M
patel (Oxemberg) - Maharashtra ( J.K apparels) - Chandigarh (Ahuja traders) Delhi (Vishesh college) o Cargo services T &T, XPS, TCI, VRL o Transport
providers Lalji mulji transport, Batco india SOFT ( NIFT, Pune )
SOFT ( NIFT, Pune )