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Introduction
The world water crisis is undisputable, yet surprisingly little work is being done to promote, develop and understand more efficient, low cost irrigation systems. Drip is considered
the choice but is ill suited for remote areas with low technology and unpressurized, unfiltered water systems. The systems described here will work well and use less water than
drip. Capturing and utilizing any rain that falls is also desirable. First, make use of catchments and hard surfaces to collect rainwater in cisterns. Then save as much water on the
land as possible with micro catchments, pitting, swales and imprinting. Check dams in the gullies of course. Mulch, compost or brush bits if you have them.
Alternative irrigation systems
I have worked with and tested many alternative systems from traditional cultures and worked on new methods that work well and use much less water. These generally also reduce
weed growth, minimize disease problems and improve yield. These systems include many you may never have heard of, including:
a. Deep pipe irrigation
Deep pipe irrigation uses an open vertical or near vertical pipe to concentrate irrigation water in the deep root zone. Experiments in
Africa showed that grape vine weight on a deep pipe drip system was more than double the weight found with surface drip and more than
six times the vine weight of conventional surface irrigation. Deep pipe has been the most effective system for many of my restoration
projects. I usually will use 4-5 cm diameter plastic pipe placed vertically in the soil 30-60 cm deep near the seedling or tree with a screen
cover (6 mm screen) to keep out lizards and animals. These can be glued on with silicone caulk or polyurethane glue. A series of small
holes should be spaced down the side of the pipe nearest the plant. Mark it near the top with paint to get the alignment right. Bamboo
with the nodes punched out works also, but wrap the bamboo with a few turns of twine or wire to prevent splitting.
Deep pipe irrigation can be used with low quality water. It is possible to set up with simple materials and unskilled labor without extensive
support systems (pressurized filtered water is not needed). The deep pipes provide better water use efficiency (due to reduced
evaporation) and weed control. They also enable water to be applied quickly and efficiently with no runoff waste even on steep slopes.
Deep pipe irrigation with drip emitters installed in 13 mm pipe was also very effective. This provides for deep irrigation but makes it easy
to check and repair emitters.
A commercial system is now sold in the USA as DeepDrip.
Gravity wick
Gravity flow moved moisture down a vertical wick from an open reservoir 1.8 m in 8 minutes and 4.5 m in about 15 minutes. This suggests they will work well for deep watering to
get roots to groundwater at 2-5 m. Capillary rise in polyester rope was 46 cm up in 6 hours. Do your own tests to make sure your wicks will work. Use a food coloring in the water to
help see water flow in the wick.
With 20 l reservoirs and 11 mm solid braid nylon rope wicks washed once, starting in a short length of ~12mm inside vinyl tubing with a hose clamp, the survival was 100% at 5
years after minimal watering for just two years. In 2013 the same wick material performed well in a large garden test. Dr. Preslav Trenchev in Australia has used wicks to irrigate nut
tree orchards. About 6,000 nut trees were irrigated for 2 years by this method on 27 farms around Sydney. Seedlings got a 5 liter plastic bucket with a gravity wick with rain
collected by an aluminum tray glued to the cover of the bucket. The Groasis Waterboxx, a commercial product, also combines a wick with reservoir and rainwater collection. A low
cost wick irrigation system might be made by inserting a wick in the bottom corner of a sturdy plastic garbage bag. This partly filled bag with 80-120 l could provide a couple of
months of water for seedlings or young shrubs or trees.
d. Buried clay pot irrigation
Buried clay pot (olla, pitcher) irrigation (http://permaculturenews.org/2010/09/16/ollas-unglazed-clay-pots-for-garden-irrigation/) uses a buried, unglazed terra cotta clay pot filled
with water to provide a steady supply of water to plants growing nearby. The water seeps out through the walls of the buried clay pot at a rate that is in part determined by the water
used by the plant. This auto regulation leads to very high irrigation efficiency. I found out about this system in an ag extension book by Fan Sheng-chi from ancient China (~50
BCE). Fan Sheng-chi was tasked with improving yields for farmers who had too little land and little water.
(http://permaculturenews.org)
Waffle garden
j. Drip the problem is
Drip systems require too much water, typically two to four liters per emitter per hour, and they demand regulated water pressure and careful filtration. In addition, we have found
that many animals will chew tubing (often called spaghetti tubing) and pipes even when open water is available nearby (including coyotes, rabbits, and dogs). In one study we did
using repellants to protect seedlings, all the spaghetti tubing was chewed up before the plants were attacked. We have also tried repellents on the tubing to little avail. The emitters
are also easily blocked with sediment and salt, and several insect species plug the emitters. Drip systems are also easily vandalized and repairs can be costly. Supply interruptions
can cause plant damage fairly quickly.
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Koen
Oops, should have read more carefully Very good article though! Its a subject that deserves a lot more attention world wide.
April 25th, 2014 (http://permaculturenew s.org/2014/04/24/get-started-efficient-irrigation-systems/#comment-1683787)
Dylan (http://sugarloafpermaculture.net)
Thanks for the article David. Nicely put together and explained. Definitely some useful ideas here. Thank you very much!
April 24th, 2014 (http://permaculturenew s.org/2014/04/24/get-started-efficient-irrigation-systems/#comment-1683508)
Jeremy
Why not braided rope?
April 24th, 2014 (http://permaculturenew s.org/2014/04/24/get-started-efficient-irrigation-systems/#comment-1683524)
Dylan
Nice article, only one non plastic solution?
April 25th, 2014 (http://permaculturenew s.org/2014/04/24/get-started-efficient-irrigation-systems/#comment-1683734)
Rebecca Willis
The FAO published a book about pitcher culture several years ago. Its in German. Has it been published in English?
April 25th, 2014 (http://permaculturenew s.org/2014/04/24/get-started-efficient-irrigation-systems/#comment-1684308)
Doreen,uganda
Very thrilled to read this now since ive been looking into better irrigation options for our community. Will dfnatly combine deep pipe & microcatchment! Am sure it will work
good.thnx
July 21st, 2014 (http://permaculturenew s.org/2014/04/24/get-started-efficient-irrigation-systems/#comment-1813800)
Ty Thompson
Ty Thompson
Ive read about the deep drip pipes and ollas before, I even thought that a deep drip pipe equipped with some kind of low pressure emitter could be the hot ticket for the area
Im looking to build my Permaculture farm in (high desert of Eastern Oregon, USA). Ollas are hard to come by where I currently live in Western Oregon, though I havent
checked any of the nurseries in the desert yet. Combining these technologies with good earthworks such as swales, gabions, keyline plowing and such could very well be the
key to re-greening deserts worldwide. Thanks for the well written article!
January 25th, 2015 (http://permaculturenew s.org/2014/04/24/get-started-efficient-irrigation-systems/#comment-2016661)
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