ri i7r

-?' I

. ) \./l
f:r

r^sA: A C!ide to Dining h the

Alcgrc, Edrlbcrto N., ancl Dorccn C Fernandcz Doreen C. Femandez:
P' vine. Mctro Vrrrila: Rr " i : l;
Alejanclro,ReynaldoC',ant]DoreenG.F.cnlatrc]cz',l'he!|wdofthePhilipptnes: Culturc Ingcsted: Notcs on thc
of lhe Orierrf singaporc and [loston'
North
n"rtrerrrr'X*A^ f'ont the Pearl Incligenization of Philippine Food
Crlcndon, w: Pcriplrrs: lirtllc ldnlrrbrrlort
rqgS

i\4akati Cin-' Plrilippines:

Femanclcz. Dorecn. Fruih of lfie Philippines
IN splru o!- llls DAILY PARrlclPATIoN in
its preparation
Boolrrrark. r997
hard put to sav just
'I'lrcater I l iston' Qu czo n C itr" i\lan ila' and consturPtion, the Filipino is often
. PaLobas Esso v-s on Pltilippine mcnus
Philippines: Atcnco dc Manila Univenily Press'
1996
what Philippir-re food is. In his homc and rcstaurant
- pak'
i\'larrila: Scltrong are found dishes with vcmacular names likc
laing and
Pdnitikdtl Atr llssay on Philippnv L'iteratrLre
Pangkultura ng PiliPinas, r989' Chincse
-. la7, Spar-rish namcs likc embutido and mechado'
'fiAi,n l)sa,-s ott Philippite [iood and CtLlture Pasig' Mctro \4anila' food with
names like tokwa and bihon, and evcn Chinese
Philippincs: Anvil Prblishing, 1994'
-.
t"ood'Ihrouglt'Iine' Spanish names, like camaron rebozddo dorado cott iamon-
Fcrnar<lcz, f)orecn,an<l Jonathan Best. Pala"-ok:Philippine
on Si&. in ffre Pol. Makati Citv, Philippines:
Bookorark' zooo' all cornpanionablY cocxisting'
Fcrnandez, Doreen, an<l Jonalhan C1tua, eds Fusts and lieats: I"eslschift-fot Doreen The rcason for the confusion is tl-rat Philippine cuisirlc'
'i bv thc Of6ce of
dynamic as any livc and growing phase cf culture'
inrrorau, Manila: Published and exclusi'el1' tlistributed
tras
n"*.r.-aPublicatiorrs,LoyolaSclrools,AterrcodcN'iarrilaUnirrrsity"'zooo. indigcniz-ing'
changed through history, absorbing irlflr'rences'
Ioundation"&nerican
!-ernandcz, Doreen' Philippine-Anrcrican !lclucational technology and tastes, and thus evolving'
Ser\ rc c adiusting io new
it , ii",-.t *"i"ti.t of tl,e iltilippincs' an cl Unitcd Statcs lnfonll;tion
Stdles- Quezon City: New Da-v todav shapcd by Philippine history and
ContentporaryTheatet Arts: Asia and the Llnited Filiprno food as
Publishcrs, r984.
society consists of a Mala,v matrix, in which
melded influer-rces
in
Ess,- on the Anetican Colonial and Contanporary'lraditions (through
Dulaart: An
'I'lreoter Manila: Sentrolg Pangkulhrra ng Pilipins' t994'
from China and In<iia (through tradc), Arabia
it;lippirn (through colo-
" Atenco dc Manila trade and Islarnization), Spain and America
fer:randez, Dorecn G. "'I lrc lloilo Zazuela' r9o3-r93o world (through
nization), and morc rccently the rest of the
Uri.cn n, Plr.D. di'sertrlion. 1976
global communication).1 A special path to ihe
understanding
lrornandcz, Doreen G Tfte IIoiIoZar:uela:9o3-lg3o Quczon C)itv: Aieneo dc
by examining thc
lvlanila Univenitv Prcss, 1978'
-l-heatrc After Nlartial
lf o'n"t Philippinc food is can bc taken
process of indigenization which brougl-rt in'
Fernardez. l)orecn G "'l ire Playbill Aftcr 1983: Philippine adaptcd and
(1995): ro4-r8
Lau." Asian 'fheafte lournal rz, no r
th"r, s,rbs.tnl"d foreign influenccs into the culture'
t Solemnidades: Nofes on Cfrurch Celebrations in Spanish Nlanila'
Ponlxs "Eetir.rg," Naon.richi Ishige' a Japanese anthropologisi'
Philippines' Doreen G ftnrandez, 1986'
2 It is
usl o CLide -to too has said, "is the act of ingesting the environment'"
Fcrrrantlcz, Dore en G , ancl Edilberto l- Alegre
the most
il;;;';;; Nletro Manila: Urban Foo<l Fbundation' hc : Booknrark'
rqEs'
quitc certainly also ingcsting culture, since among
left by
I-AsA' A Cttide to Dining in Ni etro M anila' 992'1993
N{akati' l\{etro visible, n-rost discernible and most pcrmanent traces
part of
Manila: Booknrark' r99z'
-. loreign cultures on Philippine life is food tl'rat is now
lnhanrilros' il'lanila: \4r' & Ms' so thor-
Sdrup L:$o\'s on Philippine Food A<luana' the eueryday, and often not recognized as foreign'
Pr:blislring Co., lnc , 1988'
-
on the Anerican
oughly has it been absorbcd into the native lifestylc'
Fcnrancicz, Doreen G., et al Dulaan: a Video DocunentaD'
Philippine'llteater' Viclcorecordirrg This particular aspect of cultural borrowing and changc
Colo,riat and ConremporcryTrcditions in
Manila, Crrltural Center of ihc Philippines, r996 bears ir-rvestigation; r'tot only are thc results
of imrnediatc
t' N4an'Ann lncr Filipino, but the proccss is
Itntandcz, Dorcen () , Antonio N'l salao' Malou Jacob' and gut-lcvel conccrn to cvery
l,overia. an<l Ron ena E. Concepcion Panidt an:
A Documenta' 7- on P hi lippine
one in u,hich not only a few, but the greater naiority of
Literattte. Videorccordin g r989
Piliprno Manila:.Scntrong Filipinos, participatcd. The proccss ofborrorving welrt on 6I
Panitikatt: IsangSanalsol'Iirngfrol Sa Panitikang
. e'f'pino,, Ci'lti'"I Center of tLe Philippincs' Spcial in innumcrablc Philippine houscholds through n-ranv .i
e.,,gi
'li "g
Publications Off cc, 199o
ycars. It was a conscious and yet unconsciolls
ctlltural rcac- t
in tlcr i\'lilicu " Pen 6 Ink"l'he z
Palanca, Clinton. "Doreen licrnandcz' Writcr tion, in that borrowers kncw that they werc cooking foreigr"r
Philippne Literon lournal Bok 6 ( rg9g) :i
whilc making ncccssary adaptations' bttt not
Iurran Scttlcrtcnts' lntratruros
dishcs "'n'ere
'Ihe l"ilipino Drama !t9o5lr\4anila: N'linistnof I

a\\'arc that tho'wcre transfomring the dish and

makirlg
Adnrinistntion, t98r'

Valclez. Violct B' Dorccrr lcnrrnclcz"\tcnco de i\lrrrih Univcrsih

i)cpt of it thcir owrl. Pancit, for cxarllplc, frorn a Chinese noodlc
Cor,,n*,,,i"rtio,,,"ndKonracl-r\clcnaucr-stifhingll;tb'Ventures:lleadnBson clish, is now the signature of ntanl'a towrr or rcgion (pdl1cit
News arrd lssues Quczor Ci5':
Cornnru,ricati,rg !lealth and Flnvitonnterr.al
.t,"t,c. a" ivlanila Univcrsin- i)cpt ofConrnrtrrtication:
Korrrad Adcnauer Malabon, pancif Marilao, pancit habhab of Lucban)'
That
and of rnanl an individr-ral (parrcit rti Aling Nena)
dc
;,';t;,;;',,Distributctl b' the Office of Rescarch and Publication' Atcneo
Nlanila Univcrsih, I9g9' have
ccrtairlly shorvs that both o'olution ancl crcatiotr
Virlrcl. lluclv. ancl l)orcctr l'cnlarrclcz ln Perfonnance llv'lanilal: Vem-Rcrcs' r98r
bccn involvccl.
 Chr istina Qtisumb i ng Ramilo'
"Patikim," 2oo2. [)igitdl Imdge
coriiTESl olr

research methods iike docu-

Secondly, to conventional
The proces seems to start
with a foreiun dish in its original recording changes and
rnenting and comparing variants'
(Chincse traders' Spanish mttst add critical and analyti-
iorn-,, bro.tght in by foreigners ,."kirtg"r"rron, for them, onc
is then taught to a native
cook' who nahrrally
missionaries). lt i;t;.*-, difficult to standardize and imprison
process
tastcs he knows and the
ingrcdicnts he can gct' ";i I have used a
,iloo tr r",tt. hc improviscs U, For this preliminary exploration'
fort,l.til"
bonowing and adapting' Eventuall)" of the dish as done in
;ilil beconcs so rnethocl that cornbincs examination
dish that in tin-rc cooking' and
on ir, ,ft* crcating a nerv
its origins ii" ""rt*t culture and as extant in Filipino
cttisine and lifcstylc ihat cultr'rre change or pattern
er-rtrenchcd in the native then aialysis to determine the
in thc
n' That is indigenization' and
forgotte
"t"'tt^.,"t[tthc process starts with a foreign elemcnt and cnds discerniblc fron-r this'
Philippincs
crtisinc'
62 ;;:;;'; ;",."" t"'lv be callcd part of Philippinc
NAMES

tl-rcse indigcr-rized dishcs

9 or-l

METHODOLOGY
IIow then docs onc recognizc
by thcir narnes' sinccthcsc
ii. fi.tfippi"" tablc? Firstly
a_)

z
invcstigation is mcthodology' thc dish Siopao',tor exanr-
,{ Thc principal dif6culty in this wcre oftcn borro\a'cd along with
is gencrallv constu.ncd,'
Thc evidcncc for this rcscarch srrggcsls th:
longcr ai'ailablc plc. i: a I lokkicn borrou'ing tlrat :ook]ng
bread'.Pancit' u'hich
i.i
iu"u.J transfortrtcd- and thrts 'o
"tO Yet i1 x uray onc can say ;r;:;rr, stca'ri'g, p ao beii'gstea'red
iri"r.hiucr, or for carbon dating comcs front thc I{okkien
plol + u sit is still rc.cognizably
+
anddiscov- a
ii^t ttt" cvidcnce is alrvays bcing mamrfacturcd Still' Chincsc, although originally
it did not ncccssarrl)',mcan
mcal in cvcry hornc' it.litcralll'mcans
crccl ancrv, cvcry day, itr cvcrv noo<llc clish. Cloria Chan-Yap
tclls r'rs that
ancl is
harcl and fast cviclcncc' cookcd" and irldicates thc
thc rvork ofonc cook is Irot "sonrcthing that is convcrlic"tly
a pattcrrr
ir,,*tr, *nt, and at bcst can onlf indicatc
"ariablcs
 for trcat
prcparc by frying' other hand, the fact that there are many loanwords
fryir-rg process. Sincc rroodles are casy to ihat iirc Tagait-rg
(goto, krsttto, ksint, paykot,lienrpo) suggests
noociles Pesa
the wor<i often, but not nccessariiy, mcans mcat cuts' cspccially
fople lcarr,"cl the l-rabit of eating sorrre
in Ilokkicn simply mcans "'plain boiled' ar-rd it is uscd
only
ofeating
in pork, lrom thc llokkicn spcakers and il-rc habit
in rcfcrcnce to thc cooking of fish, thc complctc icrm the tcrms for becf arc
bccf from thc Spanish, sincc manv of
Ilokkicn beirlg peq 1 5a + hi, thc last morphcnrc meaning
Spanish (punta y pecho, cadera, lonto,
'fish."' Chan-Yap cites this as an cxamplc of seurantic -solomillo)'6

"widening" sincc in Tagalog pesa in isolation does tncan

fish, btrt.rn "boiled" whe n one says pesang manok'
-""rt INGREDIENTS
IIowever, thc point remains: the names indicate the
origin'l
in
derivcd frorn adobado, thc naurc of a Thc ingrcdients containcd in the original dish' and thosc
Adobo is the noun indigcrlization'
fronl whcre Carmcn Guerrcro- the local cclition, arc also clucs to thc process of
stcwcd mcat dish in Mexico, arc gcnerally cookcd
Noodlcs in Chincse cuisine, for exarnplc,
Nakpil the Philippinc adobo cones'a In Spain' howevcr'
says
pancit
cookirtg togethcr olivc with meat and vcgetablcs to flavor the noodlcs' Filipino
adobo \sa pickling sauce , made by other things not
has local mcats and vcgetablcs-and a fcw
vinegar, garlic, thyme, laurel, oregano' paprika and salt'
oil, Malabon' being ihe
nan'te adobo to a particular lound in Chinese cooking al all' Pancit
Thc Filipino has thus given the and oysters and
from it an signature noodle of a fishing towr-r' has squid
dish of chicken or pork-and-chicken, and derived be found in
,rl,"d which individually may conceivably
or a similar
adlective io describe other foods using the same
"ggr,
ten'n adobado has a Chinese dish, but not in that combinatior-r' Pancif Marilao
cooking process (adobon I pusit)' The
base' Bulacan'
or has crumbled okoy ol rice flour, since its homc
*ou.d fron-t the dish to the process of stewirrg in a spiced
is rice-growing cottntry; pancit pdlabok has flaked tinapa
nabago
flavorecl broth (e'g., "Angitik sa Angorto'y adobado tl-re native crti-
and crtrnrbled chichanon.The tinapa is from
prituhitl'),t thus using the basic meaning- to cook in a
prescwing food in
sine (smoking being one of the ways of
pickling sauce. And indeed Philippine adobo is adobado' is from thc
the dnys before refrigeration), and chicharron
tut in condimcrlts chosen by the native tastc: vincg"r and Chincse origin
Spanish, but they arc combincd in a dish of
garlic, bal4eafand peppercorns, and morc recently
soy
is
cbntribution' A special example of adaptation through ingredients
sauce, the Chinese by strips
do not pancit buko, in u'hich flour noodles are replaced
Some borrowings from Spanish are literal and
like thc above: cocido' salpicon' cro- of young coconut cut and treated like noodles'
trndergo senrantic shifts
changc
portions o[ tl-re'origir-ral namc' e 'g' Bringhe would also bc an example of a cultural
quetas. Some are only Philippinc
become mechado; rnacie through the use of ingredients from thc
canrc mechada (meat with a lardoon) has
relleno in Spanish landscape . PaeIIa is gen'rally made in Spain with chicken
gallina rellenada has becomc relleno,
Brhtghe
which stuffs the chicken' or rabbit, with rice and seasoning, especially saffron'
ieing the forcemeat with one
and the sartce is
pescado en salsa docs use chicken, but the rice is malagkit
Especially intercsiing cases are dishes like ange' which
coconut milk, to which is added a bark called
ogrio-drlrn and morisqueta tostada, which in spite of their
panciteria rice green instcad of saffron yellow' Paella was
tr.rrns the
Spanish nanes are really Chinesc' Thesc arc rabbit
translated into creatcd from the Spanish countrv landscape-the
dishes, u'hich in the Spanish period rvere
farmcr' thc
scampcring by, the chicken bought from a
entered thc
Spanish for printing on menus' The dishes rvorld and
saffron which is the rnost expensive spicc in tl-rc
nr,i,,. ki,.l-,"r, fron-r the panciteria and so retain the Spanish
grows in Spain. Eating paella, Ihercfore, is ingcsting ihe 63
nanres. Some of thesc mentts survive in small panciterias' sting
rrdscap e. Ealittg brin ghe. howevcr, is ir-rge .1.

in amus- Sp anish la
I
and although the years havc corrr'tpted thc spcllir-rg arortnd ot-t
the Philippine lanclscape -the chicken ntnning
::
which most
ing ways, the Spanish words cloak a Chinese dish lhe malagkit Z
Chincse, bttt nou' considcr Filipino' thc farm, thc coconttt from a nearby trec, and a
Filipinos recognize as t':

of thc narlcs of food worrld thus for ficsta cakcs. This is a clcar cxamplc o[ indigcnization
Scurautic analvsis
of the nature of thc change and through a changc of substance; spirit and rramc'
rcve al origin, some thing
also furthcr infomration. For cxample, thc Chan-Yap shrdi'
finds that loanworcls are fei'vest in the catcgorv of ricc prod- THE COOKING PROCESS
both
ucts and forvl, and suggests that this may bc becalrse changc
bccn food sottrccs for Filipinos' u4ro This is probably thc anvil in which nrany a cttltural
ricc and lori4 had long Wc have alrcacly mcn-
appropri is firccl ancl givcn a Philippinc shapc
"already hacl in their posscssiotr the culinarv u'ords
sict'ing
tioncd adobo, in which ste\ving with spiccs bccanlc
aic for clcscribing rcfcrents" in thesc catcgorics On
the

in vinegar, garlic, pepper and bay leal in thc process mak-
ing surc that thc dish *oulcl ieep iong wiihout nced of
rcfrigcration and cndowing it u'ith that slight sourncss thai
Philippine flavor.
is a favored
Pag-gigisa, or saut6cing, is a tcchnique foreign to thc
inciigcr-rous cttisine, which is nrostly boile'1, roasted, or
stcamcd (l'nlabos).lt rnay have becn learncd from the
Cl-rinese stir-frying, in wl'rich food cut up in srnall pieccs
is nrovcd quickly around in a littlc oil,4ard. But certainly
most of it,vas lcarned from thc Spanish (the tcrms
gisalgisado, derirad from the Spanish guisado, or cooked
dish, ir-rdicatc that), who sartt6 iIr olivc oil with perhaps
an oniott and a garlic clovc.
Thc Filipino saut6cing, howcver, has become set into
a pattem: hcat the oil; sautC the garlic till golden brown;
add the onions and saut6 till soft and transparent; add the
sliced tomatoes and saut6 till cooked; and then add sahog
(the principal flavoring ingredients, usr-rally shrimps and/or
pork)-and then add whatever else is bcing cooked, like
beans for ginisang sitaw. Through the years it has become a
standard forrnula, and many cooks say that thc secret of
good cooking is in the pace and contents of the gisado' One
nrust know exactly when the next item should be added,
and it is also said ofgood cooks that thcir pag'gigisa can
make any lowly vegetablc or lcftovcr taste good'
What wc have here is a particular indigenizing process
cliscovered and set through the years. Thc Filipino gisa&'has
to have that garlic, or-rion, tomato and sahog base, and this
preliminary process can Filipinize an1'thing-caulifower,
leftover fish, scrambled eggs, noodles, pae //c (restar'rrateur
and chefLeny Guerrero says that is the secret ofher
paella), and cven canned mackerel from Japan (colloquially
callcd sardinas). The sahog rnay be optional, but not the
garlic, onior-r and tomato; while in Spanish cuisine a
gLtisado may have one or two of the above, but not usually
all three. The Filipino gisado is indecd an indigenizing
proccss all by ibclL
64
<)'.
9 FLAVOR I NC
a,r
z 1{ lhe gisado tr.tncs thc food to Filipino tastcs, even morc
Cl
T. so do thc dipping sauccs callcd sawsawan and thc standard
tr)
<l tablc sauccs llke bagoottg and patis. Bagoortg and patis
I
are usetl not only to salt food, br.rt also to givc thc food an
acccptablc Filipino taste . Tales have becn told of Filipino
travellcrs and honeymooncrs venturing into alien cuisines,
anncd u,ith bottles of pafis. No maftcr horv straugc or diffcr-
cnt thc food, thc patis givcs it Filipino flavor, so tl.rat ihe
dincr's culturc-bound tastc buds can rclatc to it.
What really adiusts thc food to thc individual and his
learncd food vaLres, and adapts it to thc particular rcgio-'al
individual culture of thc diner, is the sawsarvarr' Chinesc
food docs not havc this galaxy of flavor-adirrstcrs: vincgar
and garlic; kalarnansi; soy saucc, patis and garlic; bagoong,
tomatocs and onions; green mango or kamyas wiih tomatoes
and onions; chichanon, bagoortg and coriander leaf; bagoong
Balayan andkalamansi; sinamak-vinegar in whicli chilis,
garlic and peppcr are marinated; natii's pearl onions (sibulas
Tagalog) and vinegar (sukanglloco); niso (soy bean cakc)
saui6ed in garlic, onions and tomatoes; sliced fresh tomatoes
(for fish); sliced paho (tiny, tart mangoes); crr-rshed tanrarind,
ctc. ctc.-and now, of course, ketchup and Worccstcrshirc
sauce as well.
What does this mean, and why is the Filipino dincr
allowed to tamper with his food in such profligate, extrava-
gant ways? Wher.r he does, the chef in the kitchen will not
thrcaten murdcr or suicide, because it is understood that the
diner can take part in the preparation ofthe dish by using
his sawsawatt. I read this as evidence of the sense of com-
rnunity of the Filipino, the bond betwcen all cooks and
their clients, all the backstage crew and the guys onstage,
the farmcr and the neighbors and relatives wh''form his
suppori network. It like plowing a field or moving a house
is
bayar-tilun style; it is like a whole town staging a komedya,
when even the director is not the absolute diclator, her-
manos and elders having a large say in product and process'
The sawsawan is itself another indigenizing process'
The Filipino conquers the foreign taste and culture with an
army of sawsawan, insists on participation and involvement,
accepts nothing passively, br.rt takes active part in the cre-
ation of his food. The sawsdwan is not dish-specific, not
assigr-rcd to particular recipes, althotlgh there arc some tradi
tional partncrs. This is indeed an arsenal with which to
mcct and subdue the foreign invadcr, and render him /it
acccptablc to the native culture' It indicatcs an cthos corn-
pletely different from that prcvailing in France, where the
chcf is the master creator and has sole authority over the
dish. For the diner to tantper with it is discourtesy and
insult. In the Philippine experience, the diner cooPerates
and participatcs, and the creation is communal. The saw-
scwcrr thus trar-rsfonns not only the tastc, but also the
rclationship behind the expericncc.
SOCIAL POSITION
Siill anothcr elcntent that must bc examirled ir-r thc proccss
o[ indigenization is the social positior-r givcn the dish in thc
cross-cultural transfer. hl China, for examplc, siomai and
 (colc
or at tca- nration o[ pael/a has mttch to say about the original
sicpdo are foods o[ everyday, eatcn at breakfast' (colonizcd) well as about
nizer) and rccciving cultures, as
tir,-re, not gcncrally at festrvals or for main
mcals' Whcrc do
in colonization and thc process of culture change'
wc find them in the Philippine mentt? At mcricnda'
or fcstivc Wc thus note that the Chinese food now found in
homcs, schools, tl-rc streets; not usually at principal restaurants and
Chinese cui- hon'tes, nurenderos, school cafeterias, chcap
mcals cithcr. These foods, as well as most of conquerors'
the streets came in from traders and not frorn
sine, entered Philippine ctr-ltttre at "groundJevel"' at the the
both source
therc' Jhe food of the conquerors, because of
lcvel of everyday foocl, and found their final place tablcs' on
thc ingredi ancl thc sheer cosi, can now be found on fiesta
arnong the kakattin of the native cultttrc' Since
restaurants'
the clining tables of thc elite, and in expensive
.,-,s the nature of thesc dishcs werc found conrpatiblc
"nd l, and with the othcr accompani- whcre it billcd as Spanish and not Filipino food' The
rs
with the budget of that leve
"ante-bellum
rank in Niclson Towcr restaurant in Makati oflers this
mcnts (srrch as tea, coffcc and salabat), thc social
it in PhiliPPinc cuisinc Philippinc food" in a tncntt written in Spanish'
which indigenization ensconccd
was equivalent to tl.rat which it held in China'
The porridge
of Chincsc brcakfasts and
(lugaw) with chicken, fish or pork THE NATIVE CUISINE
suPPers is now the anoz caldo
lat!-night (notc thc change
rnethods'
merie ndas Ilavir-rg examined the names, ingredients, cooking
of .,^r,,. and language) and goto of Philippinc of forcign
ofChina arc rncans for flavor adiusfnent and social position
and late-night snacks. Thc everyday noodles Filipino' let
pancit bihon- food borrowed, adapted and indigenized by the
also ordirrary in thc Philippin es-mami, lomi' This was the
us now take a look at the indigcnous cuisine'
fiesta
although with special ingrcdients thcy can become process to mean
star-rdard for indigenization-taking the
food, just as there are spccial noodles in China' with the
that by which the foreign food is made compatible
The Spanish food absorbed into the cttltttre' howevcr'
locatcd in the native cuisine.
has acquircd a high social position and is
If the foreign-influenced food in ihe culture has
or festive food' Cocido, in Spain' is a simple
lcuel of special, Arab and
and a piccc Chinesc, Spanish, Mexican and, in Mindanao'
disli in which one finds a rneat (bcef or lamb)
(morcilla),salt pork (tocino)' and Indian roots, it would follow that the indigenous cuisine
each ofblood sausage would
would bc all thc rest that is in the food lexicon' Here
ham-iterns found hanging in ahnost every Spanish (pina-
It bclong thc sour-stewed (sinigang, paksiw)' steamed
kitchcn- cookcd with garbanzos and a bit of cabbagc' (nilaga)-the
a one-dish singaw, I'nlabos), roastcd (iniluw) and boilcd
is daily food, ordinary, a pot thrown togcther' we
tcrminology, we notc, exists in thc vernacular-dishes
mcal that is not sPccial. for arc culled
still havc in the prcscnt. Thc ingredients these
In thc Philippines, however, since the ham and
sausagcs
rivers'
and' being imported' are from the landscape, fish and shellfish from the seas'
are rare in the native kitcher-r of domesticated
laddcr to become brooks, streams, flooded rice fields; the ffesh
expcnsive, the dish has ascer-rded the social dog and carabao' and
animals likc pig and chicken and yes,
rcttnions' Whcn
special food, for Chrishrases and family (dcer)' baboy
fish-and-vegctablc that of undor.nesticated (wild) anirnals like usa
set against the backgrour-rd of the indigenous (i guana)'
dame (w 1ld boar), musang (wildc at), b ay awak
.uirin., this is ir-rcleed a rare aud expcusivc dish' Moreover' (mole
paniqui (fruit bat); other cdible creahtres like kamaru
comirtg frorn thc alien, dominant cttlture ' it acquircs
a
salagub(n'ry (func bcetle) and locusts; and ofcourse
of the elite lt crickct),
cachct of "class" and a position in thc cuisine cvcr-grecn
budget' thc leaves, bulbs, tcndrils, seeds and fruits of the 65
would, quite simply, bc bcyond thc ordinar;'man's
in social Philippinc landscaPe' !'
Paella has had an evcn more noticeablc change
positior.r. Originally a dish cooked in thc field
in Spain' thc Thc cooking methods probably evolvcd from thc frcsh- ;z
what- ness, proxirnity and availability of thc ingredients' Nativc a
paelleraset on stoncs over a wood fire' the ingrcdients cook 11

(a rabbit' wisdorn shouc that thc bcst way to treat thesc is to

evcr could be convenicntly found in thc ficld
a
did not
primc ficsta tlrcnr ver,v littlc, or r-rot at a]l (ftinilaw) The cuisinc
chickcn), in thc Philippincs it has l;ccomc thc favors
and spccial' it is usually cnrichcd cvolvc sartces bcczrltsc thcrc u'as tto tlcecl to disgr'rise
foocl. Bccausc it is Spanish and spices
going bacl or slightly off (or-re function of sar:ccs
with pork, chicker"r, crabs, clan'rs, prau'ns aud Spanish
in ui,rop"). Sour cooking, smoking and pickling cvolved
sausagcs (rarcthcrl, cxpcnsivc nos')' Thc rvinc addcd to it refrigcration'
likc watcr' bccattsc thcrc was nccd to prcscwc without
in Spin is gcncrally tablc wiuc, u'hich is drturk subjcct to the flai'oring Pro
adding This nativc cuisinc is also
rncans
while cooking rvith winc in the Philippir-rcs
the sau)sarrdtT'
Thus thc social transfor- viclccl by sar,rces like patis ai'rd bagoottg' and
sorlcthing rarcfed ancl cxpcusivc
 because t]ris is where tl-re communal creation of food
started, in the agricultural lifestyle of thc tribal comnrunities
of the pre-Hispanic Filipino. In this cuisine are cxpressed
the flavors of the nativc tonguc and taste. It is to this stan-
dard that the foreign foods are comparcd, and to which thcy
are adjusted in budget, taste and economic lcvel. This is
quite naturally the cuisine in thc heardand of the Filipino,
the one he longs for when he is away, the onc hc finds com-
forting. It is part of his etlios.
This is a cuisine linked and allicd to those of the rcst of
Southeast Asia. With the rest, it sharcs rice as a staplc
food-rice treated not only as ce real, but as background for
all other tastes, and thus determinant of othcr tastes-rice
as ritual food, rice not just as extender but as highly valucd
tastc and aroma. With the rest it also sharcs the extensive
and varied uses of coconut-watcr, flesh, rnilk, hcart of
pahn. There is ;n easily perccptible similarity between sini-
gang and all the sour broths of the rcgion, like thc Thai
tomydm. And there is a common use of fe rmentcd saltces,
like bagoong (frassl in Indonesia, blaclun in Malaysia, ftapi
in Thailand, main tont in Vietnam) and patis (nam pla in
Thailand, nuoc main in Vietnam, petis in Indonesia).
This native cuisine is, amazingly, hardly changc.l in
naturc or spirit. Sinigang is still soured with sour fruits and
lcaves from the Philippine landscape. It is still as fexible,
friendly to any kind of fish, meat or vegetable , adfustable
to any kind of budget or circumstance. What has become
available to sinigang, however, is new technology. Sour
broth from tamarind can now bc had in an instant "add-
water-only" package, which Filipinos consider good for
emergencies and for Filipinos in the u.s., but which house-
wives here scorn to use because the fresh ingrcdients are
available and of better valuc even if less convenient.
Paksiw and inihaw are still cooked in thc sanrc rvay,
even though the need for coal fires and prcscwation in
vinegar is no longer present in houses with gas and elcctric
stoves, and refrigerators. When the Filipino entertains family
66 or intimate friends, or whcn he wants to eat in relaxcd
<i familiarity-with his hands-he returns to tl"ris natii,c cuisinc
and tries to havc it in as pristine a forni as possiblc. Fish arc
::
z caught in ponds or pcns and roasted on ihe spot; rcstaurants
i! havc opened on the Bicutan bayshorc and fcatttre lake fish;
!)
milkfish is stLrffed u,ith onions and tonrakrs and roastcd
il
ovcr coals in thc 1,ard, r,r,ith thc cook fanning away.
The nativc cuisinc proved itsclfstrong and rcsistant to
"fratcrnization" with thc forcign invadcrs. The original
dishcs havc rctaincd thcir ingrcdicnts, cooking mcthocls and
spirit. Iiorcign dishcs have becn Filipinizcd, but Philippinc
dishes havc not bcen Sinicizcd or Ilispanizcd. Thc cultural
intcraction has becn one of borrowing wholc dishes, thcn
adapting and indigenizin3 tlicm, ratltcr tlrar. borrowing
elements to impose on nativc dishes. TIie result is a cuisinc
cnrichcd rather than bastardizecl, its integrity kept, its
dynanrisrn that of iudiciorrs rcsponsc to changc.
Could this perhaps serye as an analogue with which to
understand indigcnizatior-r in language, in thcakc and in oiher
areas of Philippine culture? Strrely thc pattern cannot be
identical in all areas. Perhaps in scme thc bonowed elements
may have ovcrwhelmed the native forces. But it is important
to realize that in food, the most popular forn-r of popular culhrre,
created by the mass in their daily activity, in an act of uncon-
scious transformation and creation, this is what happcncd.
The native culture stood firm and "kcpt thc faith," bor-
rowir-rg only technology (freezers, pressure cookers, instant
flavorings) when necessary, but not changing in esscncc.
Foreign culture was tried, examined, adjusted and thcn used
as the base for creation within the Philippine lifestyle. Thc
fact that borrowed Spanish culture came to havc a high
place in social estimatior-r and regard is cloqr,rcnt about colo-
nization and the attitudes it engenders in the colonized. It
also suggests that the colonial attitude (rnentality) may not
havc come about only because of conqucst but because of
such a pragn-ratic dimension as cost, budget, economics.
(Chinese food is definitely within reach; the ingredients of
Spanish food are noi.) Only the native elite, not the masses,
could afford tl-re colonizcr's lifestylc, and so the former
became colonized not only by the desire to emulatc prestige
and class, but through their wealth.
These preliminary notes on the indigenization of food
suggest further research: on the linguistic factor, the nanres
not only of food, but of cooking implements and processes;
and on thc nature of all thc culinary sources, and thc change
in thenr through indigenization. What, for cxample, do
thc caraia1,, sianse and sinaing indicatc abottt native and
adapted food? The transformation of the Cantonese breakfast,
rice porridgc, into the goto and arroz caldo of the Philippine
merienda-what does it say?
Research should also bc extcnded to such related sub-
jccts as thc sewicc of food, food ctiqucttc and rvap, thc
non-mrtritional functions of food (ritLral, medicinal, social),
and thc further functions offood as languagc (what arc all
thc many mcssagcs it bcais?).
Wc havc suggcstccl horv cating is thc ingcstion of cul-
turc. Dccpcr cxploration is callcd for. When thc Filipino
adaptcd paella and pancit, pag-gigisa and pressttrc-cooking,
what cffcct did that have on him, on his crtlinary culturc
and on the firhrre ofthe native culturc?
Food, obviously, is not only for cating.o
 Ilolut: fcrtilizcd ducks' eggs that have alrcady clevelopcd cnrbryos and
NOl'ES
arc boilcd ar:d cate': * itlr salt
L cf. Dorccrr G. licrnanCcz, "Irod and the F-ilipino," i. PhiliOpine $torlrl Vies',
Virgilio G. Enri<1trcz, ecl. (Singaporc: lrrstitrrte of Soutlrcast Asian Studies' r986)' Banak: Ibarracl rnullct
pp.-rc 44; and "Wh,v Sinigang?" in The Culina,y Culture of the Philippine$'
Bangus lBangros: ICltanos-Chanos] milkfi sh
ijil,lo io.,l"--t'"-ando, ed. (Manila: Banconr Ardiovision Corpomtion rgT6)'
PP 24-29. Batuan: a sour fruit aboul z crl. in dianreter, with an acidic, iuicy'
2. Naonrichi Ishige , "Wlrat is Dictan' CultLuc?'Aliconrunr'cations,
No 9' ediblc pulp around a large seed; also used for souring broth
March-April rg8r, PP. t-;
Bnyanihan: cooperative endeavor or labor, cspeciallv in a

3.Gioria Clran-Yap, "llokkien Ohinese Inffuencc on lagalog Cookery'''

comrlunitl proiect
Philippine Studies, Vol. 24. I-hird Quartcr 1976' :88-3oz'
Bayawak: iguana; a big lizard
4. Carrrcn Gnencro Nakpil, "l'ilipino trood," in A Q uestion of ldentitv lVaotla:
VJssel Books,1973), P r9 Baye-bahe: Ilongo rice cake

5. "Duck cooked thc Angono * av is stoved in a picki ing liquid bcfore

frying " Ilayo: to pound ricc with pestlc and nortar

(r. Chan-Yap, 'tlokkien Chinesc lnfluence " tsibingka: a rice cake cooked with Ere under and ovcr it
Blgas: unhuskcd and millcd rice; hulled rice grains
Bihon: rice noodles
GLOSSARY BiAo: a cakc ofswcetencd glutinous rice (malagkit) cooked in coconut
milk (gata) and sonretimes embellished with /ofiA (toasted coconut)
Achara: picklcd fruits or vegetables
Bilobilo: small steantc:l rice cakes; small balls of dough matle from
Adobo: pork ancl/or chicken stewed in vinegar, garlic, bay leavcs
glutinous rice, used cspecially in cookingginafan
and pePpercorns
sfle Binagoongangbaboy; pork cooked in bagoong
Ailobong pusit: squid cooked adobo
Binakol: a boiled chickcn dish formerly cooked in a length of bamboo
Adobo x gdtd: adobo with coconut milk
or in a coconut, usually with strips ofyoung coconut
AlaclAlak: [arrack] generic term for alcoholic drink ofany kind
Bisita: visitor; outsider making a professional visit or call
Alalay: careftlness in doing sonething; care in holding or carrying
EiTa: thc conrrlon name for all specie s of ggtl (Family Cnbidae)
something; colloquially, an aidc or assistant
Biyaya na IuPa: thc carth's borrntY
Alamang: tin1, shrimps, oftcn made into a salty pastc calledbagoong
Blachan: Malaysian shrimp paste similat to bagoong
Alibangbtng: a small stocky tree, the young leavcs ofwhich are used
Bonachos small Spanish cakes soaked in winc
in souring or flavoring rneat or fish
Brazo: a dcsscrt of Spanish origin; a roll of mcringue 6lled rvith a
Almud: adrv ntcasutc
butter sauce
Alugb ate: a succulent, herbaccous vine called "Malabar rr''ight Shade"
Brazo de la Reina: the above, but filled or sprinkled with nuts
or Ceylon Spinach
bi tte r gou rd; a bitter m el on Bringlre: native dish derived from Spanish paella, o{ rice, chickcn and
Ampalay a : (M o ntor<lic a B alsanrind)
cakes nadc ofdrieA pinipig (pounded rice grains)
coconut milk
Ampavpinipig:
Broas: Ibruas] lady{ngers
Ange: lsark used for flavoring rice which colors it green
Bugcs: Visayan term for rice
Anghang: pepPerincss; chili hohrcss in food; spiciness
Buko: voung coconut fruit
Angi: the snrell of burning rice
for Buro: fish or nreatpreserved in brinc orsalt; pickled green fruits; fish
Angkak: a specially treated cereal used for scasoning, particularly
or shrimp fermented with rice
fish and shrirnps
Burong dalag: ferrrentcd m udfi sh
Apahap: silvcr sea bass
Bus: to toast or cook without larcl 67
Apanapan: Illongo] vegctables cookcd with bagoong
Ccbcn: [kaban] a dry tneasure cquivalent to 7; litcrs or z5 gantas
Anoz caldo: chicken and rice grnel flavored with ginger !'
Anoz a laValenciana: ricc and chicken dish
Cadera; sirloin; side olbecf :
C
z
Calios; Sp. tripe a
Aywngin: silvcr pcrch .
Camarcnrebozado dorado con hamon: battcrfriccl shrinrp with a
llabavlan: nativc high Pricst
piccc ofhanr
I)abot damo: wil,l boar; u ild pig
Cdnroae: swcct Potato
Ilagoong; snrall 6sh or shrinlps prcscrved itr brine, trstrally ttscd as saLtcc

Capi:: fkapis] placuna shell; cotlmonl;- uscd in nrakirrg larnpshadcs

I)agoongllalayan: a bagoongmade of small fish, for rvhich thc town of
and rvindow panes. ('fhe sca creaturc rvithin is cdible )
Ilalayan, Batangas is krown
Caraiay; [karahay] large frying pan S-vn larvoli
Bahaque: ibahag] loi ncloth; g-stri rrg; brcechcloth
Came muhadn: [Spanish] a dish olbcef with larcloons
Bahoc: fbahog] eating rice with broth; thc act ofnixitrg broth or otltcr
Carta: lcttcr
liquitl uitlr cookcrl ricc
 Castillo: a tnountcd "castlc" of pastry', oftcn rrrade of glazcd crcarr puffs Ci/ic: [gilil] powdcrv substancc covcring husks of ricc, strarv and
Cavaraten: liquor ma<ic fron the honev of bct; blades ofsonre grasses. which usually causes irritation or itchiness
Chichanon: fsitsaron] crisp, fried porl rind; cracklinqs on the skin
Choizo de Bilbao: Sp. satrsagc ttsuallv uscd in such dishcs as pae11c, Cinataanggulat: vcgctablcs cookcd in or rvith coconut milk
cocldo,puchero Cinisangampalaya: saut6ed bitter gourd
Chupa: sn-.rlicst stanclard nreasure lor rice Cinisang sitaw: saut€ed stringbean
Cocido: [kusidol Spanislr stcw of rneat, vcgctablcs ancl chickpcas CixlCisado: dcrivcd frorr Spanish guisar, to saut6; thc act or manncr
,
Compad.razgo: gorlfather system ofsaut€eing
Copcop: fkupkop] act ofLceping or protectingsomconc ncccling hclp Cohsinas: little cookies, pastrics, suectnreats
or care, as a hen shelters chicks under her rvings Goto: rice porridge with tripc
Cronicas: lristories or reports ofrrissionary rvork Gulay: plarrt grown lor food; green vcgctablcs
Croquetas: croquettes llabhab; to eat front a container
Dacof [dakot] a han<iful of rice; anrount or quantitv taken in onc scoop llclcbos: steanred
Dacotan: [dakutan] to scoop up handfuls ol ricc Llalabu rc hipon; steamed shrimps
Dahongbawang: garlic lcavcs usecl as grecn vegetablc or nrade tlalo-halo: Ihalu-halo] refreshment nradc up ofa mixturc of bcans,
into pickles .. corn, jackfruit, banana slices, ielly, etc. with sugar, milk, shavcd icc
Daing: fish split longitudinailvdown the back, saltecl and clricd in thc sun or ice :rcan
Dalag; a species of fresh-rvate r mudfish; nlrrrei tlehdo: frozen; somethi ng stored on ice
Dampalit: an asteraceo us nra ritinr c sh ru b callcd "sarr ph irc," Ilmano: literally, broth e r; also, t|c spo nsor of a fiesta
usuallypicklcd l-Iindikanamanbisita:'\ottare nota guest"
Dapog: transplanting ricc scedlings; fire in an open space in which llindi ihang tao; one of us
firewood is uscd I'lipon m gala: shrimp cooked in or with coconut rnilk
Darac: husk lcft after the rice is millcd; porvdcrcd or pulverized rice bran IJito: fresh-water catfish
Dayami: rice straw . Ibangtao; idiom for "outsider"
Dedicatoria: dedication, e.g. in a book lgud: coconut robber crab
Dedos; piii candy wappcd in lumpia wrappcr llustrado: a learned, educated, cultLrred man
Diccionarb: Sp. dictionar;, Indio: namc givcn by thc Spanish colonizers to the native of
Dilaw: a ginger-like plant callcd turmcric, the root o[rvhich is uscd the I,hilippines
as condimcnl lnifrcw; broilcd; roastcrJ
Dinuguan: a dish ofanimal cntrails and blood, seasoncd rvith vinegar, lnihaw tu tulingan: broiled big+;,ed tuna
garlic, slt, etc. Inihaw s u/ing: broiled over charcoal
Dulang: a kincl of low dining table lamon China: Chinese ham

. Embutido; Sp. a meat roll Kakanggah: thick coconut milk, usuallv the first juice exhacted from
- Ereaimadn: lensavmada] Sp. swce t roll, usuallv buttcrcd, dusted with grated coconut me at. Syn. unang gata
,ug"r rnd sorlctimes with cheesc Kakanin; swectnreats; tidbits
".
|t:
t Erealada: Sp. salad Kakbas: squash pJant; the fleshy fruit ofthis plant eaten as vegctable

"' Entablado: stagc; spcakert platfornr or stand Kalabaw: carabao; with rcfcrencc to mango, the largcst varicty

6 8 Espcso/: [ispasol] a srveetnrcat ntat]c lronr the florrr ofglutinous Kalrnurei: a spinv citrus tree that bears snrall spherical acidic fruit,
<, rice (malagkit) uscd in scasoning foocl and for making a juice preparation like lemonacle
i)
t Fdnegd; Spanish ricc nreasurc KamarolKamru:.rolc crickct
a
z- Cabang: a ttnit of dry nrcasurc Kamawn: act of eating rvith barc hands, often rcfcrring to a grotrp of
;.I. CobL a specics of tubcr also calle d "taro" penons catirrg togethcr
'r-
'; Cachds: uatcrv nrass; porriclgc, rlash, pap Kanrias: [kanryas] a snrall trec, thc fruits ofwhich arc aciclic, ecliblc and
Calantina: sttf|ed chickcn, sliccd antl scned co]cl cornnronlr,used as condinrent in cooking nativc sterv (sirrigang)
Calapong: ricc flour Kamotmg kalrcy:cassava; nranioc, a tropical plant with cdiblc
Callina rellenada: clcboncd stuffcd chickcn starchy roots
()alunggong: round scacl Karnto: bcefflank nreat; clish of ffank rreat sterved with radish
Carbanzos: fgrabanzos; garabansosl chick-pca Kanduli: [candoli] sca catFsh (llnrilyAriiclae)
Cala: thc iuicc squeezcd front grated coconut nrcat; coconut nri]k KaninlCanin: cookcd or boilcd ricc. Syn. sirraing
 Kaong; srrgar pahn trec; th e fruit of this palrn, thc se eds of wh ich arc Maaskad: having a bitterish or acrid taste
,rsually nladr into sweetmcah Macapuno: the fruit ofa species ofcoconuttr,:c which is filled (puno)

Kai-kai/Kare-kare: a stew of oxtail, calfls foot aird/or tripe, with veg- with fl csh instead of coconut watcr, and is ustrally made into sweeLs

ctables an{ thc broth sliglrtly thickcncd with ground ricc ancl pcanuts Magsanaya:a varietv of ricc favorccl in Wcstcrrr Visalas

Kasqoh:casserole; saucepan; stcwpan MaiaBlanu:akindo[rice orcornpuclding

Kcsim; sourish taste as of food beginning to have slight ferrr entatio t Malabo: turbicl o1 nrudcly as watcr; un clcar; indistinct

Kasubha: a plant, thc dried stigmas o[which arc uscd for coloringancl Nfalabo: spongy in consistcncl rs fruits or trrbcrs

flavoring footl; a kind ofsaffron Malacapas: a species offish known as "spoiled moianas"

Katuray: a scrni-wil{ trec thc white flowers of which are caten raw or Malagkit: stickl'; also glutinous :icc
ste amed; the young pods are also ediblc Malanay: a species of fish

Kekiam: [kikyanr] Chincse meat roll Malangsa: [malansa] fishy; having a fish-v tastc or srrell

KilawinKinilaw: a {ish similar to cevichc, made b1,marinating Malinamnam: d.elicious;vcry tastv or savory; creamy and tender

uncooked fish or shrirnps in vincgar and seasoningwith salt, black pcppcr, qualib of taste and texturc associatcd witlr sorlething lrcsh

etc., e.g. kilawing dilis, hipon, tanguingrc (sa gata: with coconut milk) Maliputo: cavalla fish th riving in 'laal I ake

Kinchay: Chinese celery Malunggay: a small tree , thc young leavcs, flowers and pocls of rvhich

Kinunotnapaing: (baby) shark cookcd in coconutrrilk are commonlyused as vegetablcs; horsel:rclish plant

Kiping: edibl:, bright-colored leaf-shaped thin walers used as decora- Mamali: tassel fish; four-fingered threadfin

tion at the Lucban and other Quezon Maytime ficstas Mami: a dish of Chinese origin consisting principally of noodles with

Komedya: a folk drama form also called Moro-Moro condimcnts and broth

Kulitis; [kolitis/colitis] an edible common weed; amaranth Manamimamis on thc swect side
(Antaranthus viridis Linn.): also callcd native spinach Mapait:bitter
Kutsinta: a kind o[ native cake made of rice flour, similar to puto but Mapakla: acrid in tastc, as of a young guav, fru it o r banana

more sticky and somewhat gelatirruus Marquesotas: a type of biscuit

Izing; Bicol dish made of the stalks and lcaves of gabi (taro plant) Matamh: sweet; having thc taste of sugar

cooked in coconut milk and chilis Muhado: Sp. a dish of me ai with lardoons

Iambanog:native wine distilled from coconutpahn juice Media noche: midnightrepast; the midnightnteal traditionally taken
Langhawas: an aromatic, gingerJike root on Christmr Eve

Izfik: residuum of coconut milk after exhacting oil by boiling: sweet Mqmderos: rcstauranh that sell snacks
preparation ma{e from coconut milk used as sauce for sumcn MiAi: [nike] Chinese noodles made from wheat flour and usually used

Icche flan: fletseplan] creme caramel; milk custard, usually with a irr making pancit; sold frcsh, not dricd

caramelized syrup .Miyt de Callo: Midnight mass; tlawn masses lrcld for nine consecutivc
Izclron: fiitson] roast pig rvith le mon grass or tamarind leaf stuffing days before Christnras

Icngua estofaila: stewcd ox tonguc Miso: soybean cake; boilcd bcan nash used as ingredient in saut6eing

Liempo: pork belly or in nlaking sauce for pesa

Lihiya: |ehiyal lye. Syn. sosa Morcilla: blood sausagc

IngaolLugaw: rice cookcd soft and wet as a gruel Morcon: a large meat roll

lnmi: flatnooclles sautccd with rreat and vcgetable s, se wcd with broth Moisqueta tostniln: fricd ricc
Inmo: loin Musang: wild or mottntain cat; civct cat 69
InrcnglLusong: rnortar Nakakahiya: shanreful; disgraceful .1

loualo: fluwalo, liwalo] clinrbingperch. Syn. nrcrtittiko Nangka:[langka] iackfmit :

Lumhan:stripcd m ackercl; Japanesc nrackerel N ilaga: llinzgzl nteat stcrv; mrlcthirrg boiicrl, like conr, banana, csp. saba 9
C
. LumbaLunrba: dolph in Ninong: a nralc sponsor at a rvcddi ng, baptisnr or confirnration; godlathcr
i,,

Lrtmpia: spring roll; a dish rrade ofshrirrp, nrcat arcl/or vcgctablcs Nuoc nrant: \/ictnatresc 6slr srtrcc sirrrilar to patis i1

rvrappc{ or rollcd up in a thin florrr wrappcr, catcn frcsh or fricd O&o1: Iukoy] a patq, or cakc ofgratccl vegctablcs with or without pork

Lumpiangubod: the pith or heart ofa palm nrappcd in a orshrinrps, dccp-fried in larul or oil

Itntpia wrappcr Olamll,llam: vichrals likc 6sh, nrcat, vcgctablcs catcn with boilccl ricc
Maalat: sals; coptaining salt l)aella; Spanish dish with ricc, scafood, saLrsagcs, nreat, vcgetables

Maango: having thc odor of fenncntcd nrilk ltaellera: shallorv irorr parr in u'ltich pac:lla is cooked

Maasim: sour; ratrcid, spoilcd by fcrnrctrtatiotr Pag-gigix: saut6eing

/

Puchero: [putsero] a stew, Spanish in origin, consistirlg olbccf'

Paho:.liny, tart nlangoes
chicken, sausages. chick-pcas, veqctabics and a tomato sattcc
Pako; ediblc fcrn
salt' gingcr Pulutan: canapes; hors d'oeuvre; food taken with drinlc
Paksiw: a rlish of 6sh or mcat cooked in vinegar with
Pwtla l Pecho: bccI brisket
and garlic
Puto: gcneric term for steamcd rice cake
Paksiw na banak: mnllet cooked in vinegar (above)
rice callcd
figurcs and Puto bumbong: a chewy rice cake rnade from the glutinous
Pahspas: palm leavcs wovcn into various shapes and
pirLrndong, nroldcd and steamed in a small bamboo segment and
cate n
taken to thc chttrch on Palm Sundai'lor blessing
with sugar and grated coconut
Palal: unhusked rice grain
Putongluong: a white anisc-flavorcd rice cake
I'aJitap; small cakes nadc frorn thc starch of glutinous ricc and
PutongPolo; littlc round rice catcs from Polo' lJulacan
eatcn with sugar
Putongwlot: little ricc flour cake moldcd and stcamed in a snrall
Palmito; pahl leafor Plant
bamboo tube
Pamutat: aPPetrzer sidc dish
Putos; completely full or 6lled up, as a bag or sack
Panara: a little pasiy- filled with vegctables
shredded Aamote with ricc
Pancir: [pansit] a generic tcrm for noodle dishes Qua; [kisa] to nrix corn, other grains' or
beforc stcaming
Pancit Canton: a dish of noodles originatin3 from Canton' China
onc-ha1f of a ganta or r.5 liters
Panciteia: a spccializing in Chincsc foocl Quartillo:a dry mcasure eqtrivalentto
-restattrant
Rosqt'ztas: a $Pe of biscuit
Pancit habhab: Lucban nooclles eaten off a leaf
Rellmo; stuffed chiclicn,6sh or hrrkey, etc'
Pancit Langlang: dish of saut6cd noodles, somtincs with
a broth
fishpond
with sauce Sabalo: a large milkfish from the sea and not from the
Pancit Luglog: noodles shaken in hot water anrl scrucd
Sahog; principal flavoring ingrcdients
Pancit Malabon: :roodles cooked with seafood
Salabat: ginger ale or ginger tea
PancitMolo: soup of pork-fillcdwantons with shrimpsand chicken
Salagubang: )une beetlc; fune bug
Pancitna sabaY: rloodles in broth
Salop: a cubicle receptacl"'for measuring grains :qual to three
Pangasi: rice uine
liteis or gantcs
Paniqui: frttitbat
Salpicon: tenderloin tips sautfed in oil and garlic
P antat: lhe yo un g of fresh-watc r catfi sh Syn anak hi to
Saluyot: an ercct, branched, annual herb, the tops ofwhich are eatcn
Pasingaw: to steam in boiling watcr
milk as vegetables, especialll' by Ilocanos
Pastillts: sweets in the form of little biis, usually made of
ofpili SamPalok: [Thgalog] tamarind
Pastillas de pill a little bar or cylinder made nuts
Sangaglbua: to toast or fry rice; to roast popcorn' coffce' etc'
Pafis: a salty, thin, amber-colored fish or shrimp saucc
Sangfte; star anisc
Pato mbuchndo; SP. siuffed turkeY
veg- Sapsap: a species ofslipmouth (fish)
Perhay: lpetsaylChinese cabbage; one ofthe most u'idely'grown
and white petiolcs Sailinas: canncd sardines; also colloquial for cannel mackerel
etables in the Philipines with soft, large, grecn lcaves
and onions from Japan
Paa: fish boiled in rice-washing water with ginger' torratoes
Sawsawon: dipping saucc usually nrixcd by tlrc dincr
himselfat thc
Penngmanok: a dish of boiled chicken

6sh in sweet-sour sauce table to go with whatever he is about to eat

Percado en salsa agio4ulce:
soll and
Salofe; mirliton pear; a light green, oval fruit that becomes
Petis: flndoncsia] fish sauce
bland when cooked
Pilil; LVisavan] stickY ricc
food
with Sianse: Isiy'anse] hrrner; a kitchen ute:rsil used for hrrning
70 Pinais: fish or shrirlp wrapped in banana lcaues and steamcd
that is being fried
onions, tonatoes and young coconttt
"i Sibuyas Tagalog: native pcarl onions; scallions
> Pinangat: spicy Bicol dish olstuffcd taro lcaves and hot chilis
cooked
o Sinaing; boiled rice preparecl for every rreal; rice that is bcing
z P inasin gaw : stca med dish
or boiled still in the pot; also fislr cookcd in a littlc watcr and salt
il PingolPingol: sPecics 0[ 6sh
i!i SiranukSircmac: vincgar in-which chilis, garlic and pcppcr
<.: PinipiglPilipig: young rice pourrded fat' somovhat likc cornflakes'
i! rrc marinatcd
usually caten with coconut rnilk or hot chocolatc
Singkanras: tttbcrous root, largc, rvhitc-flcshcd and hrrnip
shaped'
Pirurutong: dark<olorcd glulittous ricc
eatcrr raw as a fruit or cookcd as a vcgetablc; a varic$ oI
turnip
Potomaya: [putomaya] a rice cakc nraclc frotl glutinotts ricc and catctr
vcgctablcs in a broth
Sinigan: aclish ofpork, bcef, shrimp or fish arld
with grated coconut and sugar
sorrred u,ith acidic fruits
Principalia: thc 6rst familics of a toun; thc clitc
Sinigangna baboy: pork in a soured broth
l'ritong galunggong: fricd rottrr<l scrtl
{

a sourccl broth Turoturo: a practice in small local resta[rants or eatcries in which

Sinigangnabangus: milkfish in
customers point at what they want; a rvay oi ordering cooked
tood ltiotrr
,liorri'i: llri r rcsc .lcatrtctl dttrttplrng
thc counter display
Siopao; stcamcd stuffed Chincse burr
Tunon dz Almendras: Sp alnrond torte
S olomillo : Sp. tcndcrloin
ganpilrcra: ice crean ntade in arr old fas)rioncd grindcr Tutong: the crusty part ofboilcd ricc lcft sticking to thc bottom of
Sotbete x
the cooking Pot
Sotanglron: translttcent noodles nracle frotr nrung bcans
Tuyo: u hole, dricd. salled fish
Sufra: virrcgar
Ube: purple yanr, usually made into sweets
Sukanglloco: palt:t vinegrr frorrr lhc llocos rcgiorr
Ubud: [ubod] pith or heart ofa palm, especially coconut, eaten raw
Sunran: a nativc dclicacy made ofglutinous rice or cassava flour'
as a salad or cookcd
rvrapped in battana or palnr lcaves
lJlang: largc varicty of fresh-water cral'fish
Suman bodbod: a variety ofslnicn nradc in Ccbu
Upor bottle-gourd
Suspiros: spun-sttgar candY
I-lsa: decr
Taba: fal: thc white or l"cllow oily substance in tlrc body ofaninrals;
lard; the inner lat ofhogs
L)tangna loo6: debt ofgratitude; favor
kke Buhi in the Yoc abularia: Sp. dicl io nrrv
Tcbios; ltabyos] a species o[tiny goby found in
\Yalang tabong, mahal ang gabi? kangkongna langl: There! no
Bicol region
cggpiant available, gaDi is expelsivc? Kangkongwill dol
Talangka: a spccies ofsnrall crab. Syn Aaiang
'\Yalis tingting: a stiffbroom tlade from the ribs ofcoconut leaves
Talbos ng ampalavc: tcndrils ofthc bifter nrelorl or bitter gourd rtsccl
Wanmy: coriandcr leavcs uscd as seasoning
as vegetable

Talinum: a fleshy hcrb uscd as substitrtte for spinach

Reprintcd fiorr Sarcp: Essoys on Philippine food bv Dorecn G Fenrandcz
and
Talong: eggplant Edilbe*o N. Alcgre iManila' Nlr. & Mt. Publitlt'ng cottrpanr', lnc rqS8) Ured
fronl a rooster dcfeated bJ pemrission.
Talunang manok: "defeated cock"; a dish made

in a cockfight
Tamala: rice cake derived fronr Mexican tanl:lc
Tamilok: edible woodrvorm
Tanduay: nipa u inc
Tanglad: lemon grass or citronella; sweetgrass; gingergrass

Tanguingte flanigui: Spanish mackercl

Tdpd: arie| meat slices, e.g. pork, beef, venison, wild boar
Tinapa: fish dried by snroking; srroked 6sh
Tin ap ai IT ina P aY: br ead

Tinola: a dish olboiled chicken, green paPaya, conmon gourd and

broth, flavored with ginger and PePpercorn
Tinubong: rice cake cooked in a barrboo tube; a Christnlas firotl of

Vigan, Ilocos Sur

Tocino: salt pork, bacon
Tocino del Cielo; tiny srvect custards in syrup
Tokwa: soybcan curd
7l
Tomyam: Thai sorlr sorrP e
Torta inpeial: Spanish torte; a nrultiJayered cake
:c
z
To1'o; soy sauce c
i
Trassi: lndonesiatr saltcd shrinrp paste, Iike bagmng
Tuba: thc frcsh sweet iuiceobtaired from nipa or buri palnr by
cutting thc top; this luicc is usttally drunk fresh, and also nraclc irrto
rr inc or vittcgar
Tulingan: big-cveJ lurra
Trrlya; tiny fresh-u'atcr clanrs; a spccics ofsnrall biralvcs
Tumpok: a small mound, uscd as a tltrit for sclling fish or vegctables,
shrinrps, grain, etc.