PATTERNMAKING FOR KNITS:

ESSENTIAL SLOPERS

with
Judy Jackson
Supply List

SUPPLIES
Straight pins
Plain or gridded pattern paper
Oaktag for slopers
Tape measure
French curve
Hip curve
1/8" grid ruler
L-square
Paper scissors
Pencils
Pattern tracer (optional)
Fabric for testing torso sloper: jersey or interlock
Fabric for testing leggings sloper: 2-way stretch
Fabric marking tools

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PATTERNMAKING FOR KNITS:

ESSENTIAL SLOPERS

with
Judy Jackson
Adapting Woven Patterns for Knits

QUICK WOVEN-TO-KNIT ADJUSTMENT GUIDE

Remove wearing ease from woven patterns to make
up in a knit fabric with at least 10% crosswise stretch.
Bodices and dresses
Move side seam in " (6 mm)
Raise waist and side dart " (6 mm)
Raise waist dart apex " (6 mm)
Raise armhole " (13 mm) at side seam
Raise neck " (6 mm) at center front only

/ "1
/2"

1 4

/"

1 4

/"

1 4

/"

1 4

Bodice

Sleeves
Move underarm seams in " (6 mm)
Raise armhole " (13 mm) at underarm seam
/"

1 2

/"

1 4

New biceps
level

/"

1 4

/"

1 2

/"

1 4

/"

1 4

Sleeve

CONTINUED >
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PATTERNMAKING FOR KNITS:

ESSENTIAL SLOPERS

with
Judy Jackson
Adapting Woven Patterns for Knits

Skirts
Move side seam in " (6 mm)
Raise hem " (6 mm)

/"

1 4

/"

1 4

Skirt
Pants
Move inseam and outseam in " (6 mm)
Raise crotch point " (13 mm)
Raise hem " (6 mm)

/"

1 4

/"

1 2

/"

1 4

New crotch
level

/"

1 4

Pant

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PATTERNMAKING FOR KNITS:

ESSENTIAL SLOPERS

with
Judy Jackson
Knit Sleeve Sloper

KNIT SLEEVE SLOPER

This sloper is a plain set-in sleeve; the left half of
the draft is the back of the sleeve.
True sleeve sloper to the armholes of the torso
sloper to use them together.
Finding cap height: Reference chart on page 5.
For sizes larger than 18 or smaller than 6, add or
subtract 1/8" per size.
Drafting Order
1. Establish center of sleeve with overarm length
from shoulder (A) to wrist (B). Mark cap height (C)
and elbow length (D) from (A). Square guidelines
through (A), (B), (C), and (D).
2. Establish sleeve cap: Split bicep measurement
over (C) and mark endpoints (D) and (E).
Connect (A) and (C-D) with the back armhole
measurement and make a mark (F). Mark
midpoint of (D-F) as (G). Repeat for front half of
sleeve cap on (C-E) to find point (H) and midpoint
(I). Divide (A-G) and (A-I) in thirds.

D G F

H I E

3. Draft sleeve: Split elbow measurement over

(D), marking endpoints (J) and (K). Split wrist
measurement over (B), marking endpoints (L) and
(M). Connect (G-L) and (I-M); lines should come
near but do not need to pass through (J) and (K).
4. Draft sleeve cap: Use sloper armscye to create
front and back underarm in lowest thirds of (AG) and (A-I). Use a curve to complete the sleeve
cap. Final sleeve cap crosses the guidelines
at the lower third marks and extends past the
upper third marks by 5/8"" (16 mm - 19 mm),
flattening into a straight line through (A).

5. True armholes. Notch for front and back armhole

at lower third marks and for center at (A).

CONTINUED >
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PATTERNMAKING FOR KNITS:

ESSENTIAL SLOPERS

with
Judy Jackson

Class Category

Knit Sleeve Sloper

1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
5

Craftsy and Sympoz Inc.

SLEEVE MEASUREMENT CHART

Overarm Length (slightly bent)
Shoulder-to-elbow
Bicep (fullest part of the arm)
Wrist
Cap Height (see chart below)
Front Armhole Measurement
Back Armhole Measurement
SIZE
6
8
10
12
14
16
18

Craftsy.com

CAP HEIGHT
55/8"
5"
57/8"
6"
61/8"
6"
63/8"

BACK

FRONT

PATTERNMAKING FOR KNITS:

ESSENTIAL SLOPERS

with
Judy Jackson
Knit Sloper Adjustments

KNIT SLOPER TO BOXY TOP

Use with firmer and more stable knits for loosefitting T shirts and jackets.
Adjust boxiness by varying amount of spread and
armhole adjustment.
Make adjustments to back pattern and adjust
neckline for front.
For sleeve, measure and note length of underarm
seams of original sloper.

0-3"

2-3"

Torso Drafting Order

1. Trace back sloper. Draw a line parallel to CB from
center of shoulder to hem.
2. Slash and spread up to 3" (7.6 cm).
3. Blend new shoulder line from neck to armhole.
4. Lower armhole 2"-3" (5 cm - 7.6 cm) and correct
curve. Measure and note the new armhole length.
D

5. Correct side seam, squaring from underarm.

0-3"

6. Trace for front and copy original front neckline.

Sleeve Drafting Order
1. Trace back half of sleeve sloper onto folded
paper, aligning center of sleeve on fold. Mark
original shoulder (A), wrist (B), and bicep (C) along
fold. Mark original end of wrist (D).
2. Establish sleeve cap: Mark a new bicep point
(E) up from (C) by the amount you spread the
torso sloper. Square a line through (E) for new
bicep line. Connect bicep line with (A) using new
armhole measurement and mark endpoint as (F).

E
C

0-3"

3. Draft sleeve: Connect (D-F) for underarm seam.

4. Draft sleeve cap: Mark midpoint of (A-F) as (G).
Use a curve to create sleeve cap from (F) to (A);
final curve moves inside (F-G) by 1/8" (3 mm) and
outside (A-G) by " (6 mm), flattening into a
straight line through (A).

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PATTERNMAKING FOR KNITS:

ESSENTIAL SLOPERS

with
Judy Jackson
Knit Neckline Trim

NECKLINE TRIM PATTERN DEVELOPMENT

Knit trims for standard necklines are simple
rectangles.
Measure and note combined front/back torso
neckline measurement at the stitching line. If
measuring from a completed pattern, deduct
shoulder seam allowances.
Determine what style of trim first to calculate
width; then decide on fabric to calculate length.
Use " seam allowances on all trim patterns.

Width
Inserted/crew-neck trim width = finished width x 2
Bound/scoop-neck trim width = finished width x 4
Length
Self fabric length = neckline measurement x .75
Ribbing length = neckline measurement x .66

QUICK GUIDE WITH SEAM ALLOWANCES

INSERTED TRIM

BOUND TRIM

SELF FABRIC

Width = (finished width x 2) + (" x 2)

Length = (neckline x .75) + (" x 2)

Width = (finished width x 4) + (" x 2)

Length = (neckline x .75) + (" x 2)

RIBBING

Width = (finished width x 2) + (" x 2)

Length = (neckline x .66) + (" x 2)

Width = (finished width x 4) + (" x 2)

Length = (neckline x .66) + (" x 2)

Inserted Trim

Bound Trim

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PATTERNMAKING FOR KNITS:

ESSENTIAL SLOPERS

with
Judy Jackson
Knit Pants Sloper

PULL-ON KNIT PANTS SLOPER

This pant hangs straight from the hip and fits
loosely, with a pull-on elasticized waist. If you
want a closer fit through the hip and waist, add
darts and a zipper opening.
If you choose to omit waist shaping and your side
seam is completely straight, you have the option
of taping the front and back patterns together at
the side and cutting each leg in one piece without
a side seam.
If desired, taper to the ankle by angling the
inseam and outseam from the crotch to the ankle.

x
E
B

Drafting Order
1. Trace skirt sloper front; extend base to desired
pant length. Mark center front waist as (A).
2. Mark measured crotch depth, raise " (19
mm), and establish new crotch depth. Mark
crotch depth intersection with CF as (B). Make a
reference mark (X) at midpoint of (A-B).
3. Draft crotch curve base: Measure front hip
of pattern; divide by two and subtract " (19
mm). Extend out from (B) by this amount. Mark
endpoint of this line as (C), the crotch point.
4. Draft inseam and outseam: Square off (C) to
hemline; continue skirt side seam to hemline;
complete hem.
5. Draft crotch curve: Draw a diagonal line out from
(B). Measure 1" (38 mm) from (B) and mark as
(E). Use a French curve to connect C, E, and X in a
smooth curve.
6. Repeat Steps 1-5 for pant back, with two changes:
In Step 3, extend the crotch curve base by " (19
mm) more. In Step 5, mark (E) at 1" (44 mm)
away from (B).
7. Check crotch length: Measure front and back
crotch curves and add together; compare with
original crotch length measurement. Adjust
curves and extend C if necessary.

CONTINUED >
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PATTERNMAKING FOR KNITS:

ESSENTIAL SLOPERS

with
Judy Jackson

Class Category

Knit Pants Sloper

1.
2.
1
2
5
4

3.
4.
5.

PANTS MEASUREMENT CHART

Crotch Depth (sit down on a straight surface and
measure along the side from your waist to the
table or chair you are sitting on)
Crotch Length (measure between the legs from
the front waist to the back waist)
Inseam
Front Hip
Back Hip

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PATTERNMAKING FOR KNITS:

ESSENTIAL SLOPERS

with
Judy Jackson
Knit Leggings Sloper

KNIT LEGGINGS SLOPER

This leggings sloper relies on stretch to fit the body
very closely; use for two-way stretch knits only.
The legging has no side seams and is cut in two
pieces for right leg and left leg. When drafting
the sloper, the left half of the draft represents the
back of the leg.
Using the sloper: Do not add seam allowance to
the crotch and inseam; add hem allowances at
the waist and ankle as desired.

6. Build front crotch curve: Mark 1" (2.5 cm) in from

(J) and mark as (O); connect (L-O) in a straight
line. Mark midpoint of (L-O) as (P); connect (P-J)
with a curved line.
7. Build back crotch curve: Mark 2" (5.1 cm) in from
(I) and mark as (Q); connect (N-Q) in a straight
line. Mark midpoint of (N-Q) as (R); connect (R-I)
with a curved line.

Drafting Order
1. Draft sloper guidelines:
Draft guideline for ankle to waist
measurement; mark waist as (A) and ankle as
(B). Left half of draft represents back of leg;
right half of draft represents front.
Mark knee point as (C).
Mark thigh as (D).
Square through (B) and draft guideline for
ankle. Mark back side endpoint (E) and front
side endpoint (F).
Square through (C) and draft guideline for
knee. Mark back side endpoint (G) and front
side endpoint (H).
Square through (D) and draft guideline for
thigh. Mark back side endpoint (I) and front
side endpoint (J).

Back

Front
L

2. Draft leg: Connect (J-H-F) and (I-G-E)

3. Draft front rise: Mark front rise depth (K) along
thigh from (J). Square through (K) and draft front
rise; mark endpoint/center front waist as (L).

4. Draft back rise: Mark back rise depth (M) along

thigh from (I). Square through (M) and draft back
rise; mark endpoint/center back waist as (N),
5. Draft waist: Connect (N-A-L) in a smooth curve,
squaring at center front and center back waist.

CONTINUED >
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PATTERNMAKING FOR KNITS:

ESSENTIAL SLOPERS

with
Judy Jackson

Class Category

Knit Leggings Sloper

2
9
3
8

10

LEGGINGS MEASUREMENT CHART

Waist (at natural waist, or wherever you want the
1.
leggings to reach)
2. Hip: (at fullest hip)
Thigh (at fullest part, high up on the leg near the
3.
crotch)
4. Knee (at the top of knee with your knee straight)
5. Ankle (at finished length)
6. Waist to Ankle
7. Ankle to Knee (on side)
8. Knee to Thigh
9. Front Rise
10. Back Rise
Rise Depth: thigh (waist 2)
Front Rise Depth: rise depth x .33
Back Rise Depth: rise depth x .66

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