Making a kilt

A Kilt is basically a pleated, wrapped skirt. The back half of the kilt is pleated, the front half
(apron) is the made of two overlapping panels. A true kilt is completely handmade. There are
some small variations in my version, which I have added for ease of wear, such as adding
Velcro across the front of the apron. The expression The Whole Nine Yards comes from the
fact that a large mans kilt is made of a nine-yard long piece of tartan material (Editor's note this is one theory... see references below). Since high quality tartan costs $55 or more per 60inch wide yard (yielding 2 yards of kilt material) you can see why a kilt is a lifetime

investment.
Why does a kilt need so much material?
A single pleat is made up of a full sett (pattern) width, with an average one-inch exposed pleat.
The pleating can be done to the sett, duplicating the pattern, or regimental to the stripe. If
the size of the sett were 8 inches, one pleat would use 9 inches. 42-inch hip measurement
requires 4 yards of double-width tartan.
21 inches of apron x 2
21 inches of pleating x 9 inches (8 inch sett + 1 inch exposed pleat)
Total
add 20% for additional pleating and centering the apron pattern.
Total Inches needed
Divide by 72 (36x2 double width)

42 inches
189 inches
231 inches
46 inches
277 inches
3.86 yards rounds to 4 yards.

Less material is needed if the sett is smaller. A 6-inch sett would equal 3.15 yards. A larger man
with 56-inch hip or waist measurement would require just over 5 yards of 8-inch sett tartan.
A child or dancers kilt would look best if made with a 6-inch or smaller sett, keeping the pattern
in proportion to the size of the wearer. A kilt for a child with a waist measurement of 26 inches,
using tartan with a 6-inch sett could be made with 2 to 2 yards of tartan.
Measurements Needed: Hip, Waist, and Kilt Length

Hip and waist meaurements determine the pleating needed. The length of the kilt is measured
from waist to mid-knee, adding 2 inches for a higher rise (waist) if a wide kilt belt is to be worn.
Fitting hint: Pre-make the lining by cutting 1 yard of heavy duck fabric into 10-inch widths. Wrap
one section around the back of the person being fit, stopping at the side seams of the persons

apparel. Attach a section at this side seam on both the left and right side, wrapping around the
front until each piece meets the opposite seam. Safety pin these pieces together, pinning back
the ends of the apron sections. You have now custom fitted the lining to be used later. You can
fit the pleats and the aprons to this lining as you are making the kilt. Any increases or
decreases in waist compared to hip can be easily determined by how the back piece is
fastened to the apron sections.
Preparing the Material

True tartan material has a finished selvage edge, which would be used as the bottom (hem) of
the kilt. If the material doesnt have a finished edge you should start by hemming the material
at both top and bottom edge making sure you hem at the same place on both sides so that
when you sew them together (end to end) the pattern and depth of the hems match. Cut
material into two strips wide enough to measure from waist to bottom of the hem. This will
leave a long center strip that will be partially used for the waistband. Sew the two wide
hemmed pieces together, matching the pattern of the sett. Finish the top edge of the material
by serging, running a zigzag stitch, or using an antifraying liquid like Fray Stop or Fray Check.
Marking the Outside Apron

The outside kilt apron will buckle on the right side. The
pattern of the tartan needs to be centered properly. Fold
under at least 6 inches at the beginning, and then make a
deep, double-width pleat on the left. Fasten with a safety
pin at the hip measurement.
Continue pleating with single-width pleats, (see Pleating the Kilt below), continuing to safety pin
at the hip. Pin in a wide, double sett width box pleat at the opposite end of the pleating. Next
measure the inside apron to match the outside apron, and pin back the end.
Pleating the Kilt

Think of a deck of cards, which have been fanned out. Many cards overlap with only a narrow
part of each card exposed. Each hidden part of the card represents 8 inches of fabric doubled
for the pleat. The exposed part would be aprox. 5/8 to 1 inch. Mark one sett width on a piece of
cardboard. Divide the pattern of the sett into equal parts. A section of two wide strips of color
with a narrow stripe in the middle looks best divided in 3 sections, centering the strip in the
middle section. An 8-inch sett may be divided in 8 or more sections. This piece of cardboard
can be your measuring tool as you pleat.
To duplicate the pattern of the tartan you overlay the edge of
the pleat over the matching pattern in the next sett. Fasten
each pleat at hip level with a safety pin. Continue pleating
until the desired width is pleated.
Hip to Waist Adjustments

Darts can be pinched in at each side of the apron pieces, keeping the first and last pleats
straight on grain. This will adjust the apron for one of the half waist/hip difference. The
remaining half of the difference should be spread equally between the pleats, using safety pins.
You may want to mark the angles of the pleat adjustment, with a temporary fabric marker,
where needed to ensure a straight stitch.
Basting In the Pleats

Do 2 rows of basting, approximately and of the way up from the bottom edge of the fabric.
You can use a running stitch, catching the edge of each pleat. This will make the material more
compact and easy to work with during sewing, as well as making steam pressing easier.
Stitching the Pleats

Use a blind (felling) stitch, starting at the bottom (hip point) of the pleat. Fasten the thread
inch from the reverse edge of the pleat, start with 2 stitches to fasten the bottom, and then run
the needle under 3 threads of the bottom material, and then straight up to the top material of
the pleat. You then run the needle through the top material aprox. 3 threads, back down to the
bottom. This produces aprox. 10 stitches per inch.
Trimming the Back of the Pleats

On the inside of the kilt trim excess material at top of each pleat, from waist to 1 inch above the
hipline. This strip would be 1 to 2 inches deep, removing the bulk of the material from the
inside.
Adding Fringe

Cut a 3 inch wide piece of material the length of the kilt. Fold this
piece in half to give a double thickness to the fringe. This will be sewn
into a doubled (Z shaped) edge folded in the right side of the apron.
Once this is sewn in place you can fringe it by removing the vertical
threads.
Adding the Waistband

Cut a 5 inch wide strip for the waistband. Starting on the beginning edge of the outside apron
matching the pattern of the material. Turn the bottom edge of the waistband strip under. inch
and stitch 1 to 1 inches from the top edge of the apron using the blind (felling) stitch. Overlap
the remaining width over the top of the kilt. The lining will cover up this side so it doesnt need
to be finished.
Adding the Lining

Stitch in the lining of duck material at the top of the inside waistband by doing an overlap stitch
along the top and inside apron side, tacking bottom edge of the middle section to the back of
the pleats. The lining should be the depth of the sewn down pleat. The bottoms of the apron
lining should be left loose, just hemming the turned under edge of the lining to itself.
Adding Buckles and Leather Straps

Punch a series of holes in the squared end of the leather straps. Sew the straps to the inside of
the next to the fringe, positioning the top strap just below the waistband, and the second just
above the bottom of the sewn down pleat. Tack the lining over the sewn-in straps. Sew the
buckles on the pleated area, 2 inches to the right of the fringed side of the apron.
The buckles can be attached by either sewing on a turned strip of material as a casing, or by
sewing the buckle directly on the material using button thread.
Add Velcro to the Inside Waistband

Instead of adding a third buckle / strap to the left side I use Velcro across the apron. This holds
the material securely with or without a belt.
Finishing

Press the pleats using a wet pressing cloth. Hold the iron over a section of pleating to steam in
the pleat. Move the hot iron to the next section and lay a cold iron or heavy object on the
previous area. This holds in the steam while it cools, giving you a crisp pleat that has real
staying power.