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1. INDICE ingles:ESP.NDICE 18/04/13 4:35 Pgina 1
Panzer II Ausf. F
By combining pieces from two old model kits and doing a hyper-detailed job, we can get a
high quality kit. This review also contains two pages with color profiles.
Staghound Mk. III

This vignette is a hobbyists dream: A well balanced composition with a vehicle, some
figures and a ground piece executed and painted with the highest skills.
14
Steyr 1500A Kommandeurwagen

A high quality scene set in Normandy, where the author demonstrates how we can use
very little space to tell part of a story.
Soviet Tank Crewman

Portrait of a Russian tank driver right after the liberation of their national territory.
30
44
Panzer IV Ausf. C
An interesting version of the famous German armored vehicle with an interesting camouflage
scheme.
BT-5 (mod. 1934)

A 1/72 scale vignette set in the Eastern Front on the summer of 1941. Color profiles with
different camouflage schemes are included after this review.
62
34
MODELLING LESSONS: US Tank Crew

A step by step review of acrylic painting techniques on a 1/35 scale figure.
54
2-13 PANZER II ingles:PzI.F 18/04/13 2:54 Pgina 2
By: Juan Luis Mercadal Pons
Pictures by the author

Color profiles by: Carlos de Diego
Vaquerizo
Tamiya
1/35
A few years ago I began

to get obsessed about
doing a decent
reproduction of a
Panzer II F. That
meant that I had to get
a reasonable likeness
with the real thing.
Back then you could
only find the old Tamiya
kit, which was very
simple and lacked detail.
Thats why I decided to
use the hull, tracks and
fenders from the
Panzer II C
manufactured by Alan,
which were not
wonderful; just more
accurate.
KITS USED
Models:
- Panzerkampfwagen II Ausf. C, Alan
ref. 004 1/35 scale.
- German Panzerkampfwagen II Ausf.
F/G, Tamiya ref. 35009, 1/35 scale.
Photoetches:
- Pz.Kpfw. II Ausf. F, Eduard ref.
35047.
- Pz.Kpfw. I&II, On the Mark Models
ref. TMP 3508.
Gun:
- German 2cm KwK 30, Jordi Rubio
ref. TG-21.
Tracks:
- Pz.Kpfw. II/Wespe, Friulmodel ref.
ATL-30.
Accessories:
- Sprocket wheels Pz. II-Wespe early,
Friulmodel ref. AW20.
- German cranks 10-15 Tons, M4
Models ref. 35023.
- Pieces from a Pz. Kpfw. IV
On-vehicle equipment set, Tamiya
ref. 35054.
3
A S S E M B L Y
I adapted to these pieces the superstructure and the turret of the Tamiya kit,
and used a few available complements
for the kit that you will see listed in the
chart below. I also had to do a few
pieces from scratch. Nowadays you can
buy a good kit of this char, so Im not
going to bore you any more with assembly details.
P A I N T I N G
This vehicle saw active service for a

number of years; this means that your
paintjob options are many. They range
from dark grey to dark yellow, and you
can also do all of the African colors.
However I think that the most interesting
camouflage schemes for me are those
applied on the dark grey base color on
the summer of 1942 in Southern Russia.
Nobody really knows for certain where
those paints came from. It could have
been paints RAL 8000 or RAL 8020 from
the African theater of operations or paint
obtained from the enemy. Once I consulted the reference images, I began
painting my miniature Panzer.
I consider that the main painting
techniques are too well known, and have
been better described in other reviews of
this magazine and other hobby manuals.
Thats why Im not going to go into too
much technical detail. I will just make a
list and will only get into detail when I
consider it interesting enough:
Base Color: A couple of airbrushed
layers of Tamiyas XF-63.
Highlight: XF-63 lighted up with XF-2
from the same brand airbrushed to
enhance the different armored planks.
Camouflage: Airbrushed XF-60.
Camouflage highlights: XF-60
lighted up with XF-2, XF-57 and a little
bit of XF-4 applied with airbrush kit as
well.
Enamel Filters: Tamiyas XF-50, oil
paint 48 and Humbrols 93 on enamel
thinner, all applied with a brush and
allowing each color to dry up separately.
Varnish: Three Model Air satin varnish airbrushed layers.
Paint Chips: Hand painted using
Panzer Aces acrylics 306 and 302.
General Layer of Dirt: Irregularly
airbrushed Humbrol enamel 63. 15 min-
The Alan hull (light grey) has been adapted to fit the upper structure from the
Tamiya kit and its turret (light brown).
All welding marks have been created with the tip of a triangular shaped X-Acto
knife mounted on a small electric welding machine (see Model Kit School in
Panzer Aces/Armor Models No. 11).
The kit has been enhanced with photo etched pieces and other available
accessories, but it has been necessary to build a few pieces from scratch using
plastic sheet and plastic rods, copper wire, metal sheet, etc.
utes later it is partially removed using

enamel thinner.
Intensifying Dirt: Hand made washes with enamels XF-57, 93 and 29
(Tamiya and Humbrol references). These
will intensify the dirt effect, but paint
puddles may occur, so be ready to clean
them up with your handy thinner bottle.
Dirt accumulations: Specific acrylic
washes on some areas with Tamiyas XF59, XF-57 and XF-15. Powdered color
pigments manufactured by Mig Productions have also been used (diluted in

water). Mistakes in placing these (P037
and P030) can be corrected by partially
removing pigments with a brush soaked
in water.
Stains and Dirt Trails: These are
only applied in some areas with subtle
brush strokes using almost undiluted
paint in some places and sometimes
using almost transparent paint veils
where needed. I used enamels, oil paint

and acrylics when the need arose. I
chose orange and brown colors for creating rust, sand colors for dirt and bitumen
of Judea (thinned out accordingly) to
convey grease and fuel stains.
Worn areas: Some gloss is made by
passing your finger repeatedly on the
edge of the hatch, fenders, etc.
Dry Mud: The tracks and the lower
areas of the hull are given some powOnce weve covered the kit with
XF-63, we add XF-2 to the mixture
and airbrush a few highlights. The
effect becomes particularly visible on
the wheels. The upper part of the
wheels is lighter than the bottom one.
Now the gun previously painted with

XF-56 will receive a few washes
on X-18.
The camouflage spots on XF-60 are

lighted up slightly with XF-57, XF-4
and XF-2.
The flag used for airplane

identification purposes is a
rectangular piece of tinfoil with an
Archer transfer (ref. AR35035).
After weve dirtied the kit with three

color filters, we proceed to varnish it
using gloss varnish before placing all
decals and transfers. Afterwards,
three layers of satin varnish will
preserve our paintjob and the decals.
Paint chips are made with a No.

1 brush and paints 302 and 306.
Around the edges and other areas
where the chips are bigger, well
use a No. 4 brush and apply
paint in ample dry brush
strokes.
dered Mig pigments: P028 and P037.

These are mixed together (in varying proportions) and applied with enamel thinner and a little mat varnish.
Tracks: The same pigments and the
same procedures described above. The
areas worn to a polish are recreated using
Tamiyas XF-56 and pencil lead.
Well Worn Areas: Areas like the
hooks of the track wheels, the band
where the wheels pass, the corners
around the commanders hatch, etc. are

rubbed with graphite powder (pencil
lead).
Painting Small Details: The
exhausts silencer and the spare tracks
are done with a number of paint washes
and some passes with the dry brush
technique. The inside of the exhaust is
filled with Mig pigment P023. The rear
lights are painted with Panzer Aces 308
and 307. The covers for the front lights
are painted with 314 of the same brand.

The gun shine of the gun and machine
gun is created with base paint XF-56 and
some washes on X-18 (both Tamiya references).
Accessories and equipment: The
wooden handles of the tools are painted
with enamel 93 (Humbrol) darkened
with oil paint washes on 46. The remaining accessories are painted with Panzer
Aces acrylics. The canvas is a rolled alu-
At this stage we create a number of

dust and dirt effects using different
kinds of paint. The first paint washes
help ease dirt into the kits
crevices.
The next and final stage of the dirt effect is achieved with powdered color pigments.
minum sheet and the flag is a tin sheet

with an Archer transfer. The accessories
are dirtied following pretty much the
same techniques used on the vehicle.
BACKGROUND
Im among those who think that a
military vehicle is better displayed on a
small scene built for it, regardless of its
size. In order to get good reference material on how does the Russian countryside
look in the summer I looked up for a
number of good color pictures on the
Internet. I had to do this because all the

pictures I had of the vehicle where obviously in black and white.
I measured the dimensions of my base
and cut a piece of plywood accordingly.
Then I poured a mixture of sand, powdered color pigments, stones, Das Pronto
paste and latex. While the above mix
was still fresh I added some texture to it
with a steel brush and also created some
prints with the tracks of the vehicle.
Once all dried up I was not convinced
with its colors, so thats why I painted it
all over with the appropriate ones. I finished it off by gluing a few blades of
grass using well diluted white carpenters
glue.
smell and can be diluted using water.

Panzer Aces 333 (black) was applied
with a few drops of Tamiyas mat varnish
in order to avoid any unwanted gloss.
You have to keep testing until you get the
right proportion of varnish and paint
because excess varnish can turn paint
whitish.
BIBLIOGRAPHY
-BITOH, Mitsuru. Pz.Kpfw. I/II
series and variants, in achtung
Panzer No. 7 Dai Nippon Kaiga,
Tokyo, 2002.
-FEIST, Uwe and DARIO, Mike.
Leichte Panzers in action, in
Armor No. 10, Squadron/Signal
Publications, Michigan, 1974.
-SPIELBERGER, Walter J. Die
Panzerkampfwagen I und II und
ihre Abarten, in
Militarfahrzeuge No. 2,
Motorbuch Verlag, Stuttgart, 1991.
-SEVERAL AUTHORS Chars in
Russia I, in Monographic vol. No.
6, Accin Press, Madrid, 2002.
F I G U R E
I created this Leutnant using a number of different spare pieces that had
been lying around in my spares box. The
figure is a Tamiya reference; I remodeled
the arms and added a couple of Verlinden hands that could suit my needs. I
traded the figures head for a Hornet reference, and scratched off the Waffen SS
skull and glued instead a plastic circle
(obtained with a hole puncher) where I
created the Heer insignia. The rank
insignia and the other medals where
obtained from an old photo etched
sheet.
I painted it using Panzer Aces acrylics
which are comfortable to use, do not
The figure is painted with acrylic paints

pretty much following the techniques
expounded elsewhere in the magazine.
COLOR CHART
TAMIYA (acrylics)
X-18 semi gloss black
X-21 flat base
X-22 clear
XF-2 flat white
XF-4 yellow green
XF-15 flat flesh
XF-57 buff
XF-59 desert yellow
XF-60 dark yellow
XF-63 German grey
MODEL AIR (acrylics)
60 satin varnish
PANZER ACES (acrylics)
302 dark rust
306 dark rubber
307 red tail light
308 green tail light
309 periscopes
314 canvas
333 German tankcrew (black)
337 highlight German (black)
On the axis of the wheels colored

pigments are removed with our
finger, and believe it or not we get a
very natural effect.
341 flesh base

342 highlight flesh
343 shadows flesh
TAMIYA (enamels)
XF-50 field blue
XF-57 buff
HUMBROL (enamels)
29 matt dark earth
63 matt sand
93 matt desert yellow
MIR (oils)
46 burnt umber
48 burnt Sienna
MIG PRODUCTIONS
(pigment)
P023 black smoke
P028 Europe dust
P030 beach sand
P037 Gulf war sand
TITAN (asphalt)
Asphalt
The
accessories we
place later can
be dirtied,
following the
same
techniques
used on the
armored char.
Some areas are
exposed to
continuous
wear and we
can convey
this by rubbing
graphite
powder (pencil
lead)
The patina or
dirt layer gives
the kit an
absolutely
realistic look.
Pz.Kpfw. II Ausf. F
(Sd.Kfz. 121), Pz.Rgt. 5,
21. Pz.Div., Gambur Libya,
November 1941.
Pz.Kpfw. II Ausf. C
(Sd.Kfz.121), Pz.Rgt. 4, 13.
Pz.Div., Heeresgruppe Sd,
USSR, July 1941.
Pz.Kpfw. II Ausf. F (Sd.Kfz. 121),

Pz.Rgt. 15, 11. Pz.Div, Kursk,
USSR. June 1943.
Pz.Kpfw. II Ausf. F
(Sd.Kfz. 121). Pz. Rgt. 201,
23. Pz.Div, Caucasus USSR.
September 1942.
14-23 STAGHOUND ingles:PzI.F 18/04/13 3:07 Pgina 14
M
M
14
ost units ended up being

built almost exclusively for
the armies of several Commonwealth countries (including of
course the UK), following the Lend-Lease
treaty. Production began in the summer
of 1942, and in October of the same year
the initial run of 300 units arrived to the
British arsenals. These Staghounds MK.
I wound up being attached to the
armored regiments. On December 1943,
with about 2844 vehicles manufactured,
production ceased.
The Staghound was a rather bulky
vehicle on wheels. Its armoring was
50mm thick in the front, and it had a
37mm gun and a 7,62mm Browning

machine gun on a swiveling turret and
another machine gun on the chassis. It
was equipped with two GMC 270 6
cylinder gas motors that gave it 97
(horsepower) when going at 3000 rpm.
This vehicle proved itself worthy while in
combat: it was fast, maneuverable, easy
to maintain, and its fuel reserve of 623
liters gave it an operational radius of
action of about 250km.
This vehicle saw action to full satisfaction for the first time in Italy in 1943. Later on, the vehicle was delivered to Canada, New Zealand, Belgium and India.
The vehicle had a number of pioneering
devices such as the automatic hydraulic

transmission, the turret swirling mechanism which was also hydraulic.
In order to upgrade its weapons, 100
British units removed the vehicles turret,
the machine gun outside of the turret;
and were given a 75mm Ordnance QF
gun and a Besa 7,92mm coaxial machine
gun mounted on the turret of a Crusader III instead. These modified vehicles
that seated four men where called
Staghound MK IIIs. These modified
vehicles were used by the Polish, Australian, Canadian and New Zealander
forces.
By: Javier Redondo Jimnez

Best Value Models
Figures by: Diego J. Jimnez Molina

1/35
The Staghound was designed by the Chevrolet

Division of General Motors Corporation following
the specifications given by the US Army. After a
number of prototypes were created, the
specifications changed, and the vehicle ceased to be
manufactured.
The kit has a resin turret and a styrene chassis. It can be assembled quickly and
doesnt need many improvements.
Some handles have been removed and have been traded for ones made of
telephone wire. The gun has been substituted for an aluminum one, and on the
back Ive placed a box from a Verlinden set.
A S S E M B L Y
Bronco, the Asiatic hobby brand
announced the manufacture of this kit,
however its production was heavily
delayed more than my patience as a
hobbyist could tolerate- so I finally
chose the Best Value kit already for sale.
The kit is a transformation of an available kit from another brand (Typical of
Best Value). This kit is basically a copy
of the Staghound MK I from Bronco
molded in styrene with the pieces and
resin elements to turn it into an MK III.
As luck would have it, as soon as I was
15
done with my kit, Bronco finally

released its Staghound MK. III.
The Best Value kit is assembled easily
and uneventfully as long as you keep an
eye on the instruction sheet. The only
thing I did to it was to discard the plastic gun and use a Jordi Rubio aluminum
one instead, place on the rear a Verlinden box and place MV Products lenses
on the kits headlights.
I have little to say in terms of assembly. Were dealing with a kit that can be
assembled without problems, which
relieves me a great deal. I feel that vehicles on wheels are particularly attractive,
and this one with its massive turret is in
my opinion one of the most beautiful
built during WWII.
Mud splashes have been made with a hard tipped brush and powdered color
pigments on enamel thinner.
The silencers on the exhausts have been painted with a mixture of oil paints:
209, 305 and 701. This mixture was later on given some nuances
with pigments P024 and P025.
KITS USED
Model:
- Staghound MK III, Best Value
Models ref. 35058, 1/35 scale.
Gun:
- British 75mm, Jordi Rubio ref.
TG33.
Accessories:
- Lenses, MV Products ref. TG33.
- Tank tool & equipment boxes,
Verlinden Productions ref. 346.
- Jerrycans, Italeri ref. 402.
Buildings:
- Anti-tank defenses, Hobby 37 ref.
H3732.
- 38(t) Bunker, Mig Productions ref.
MP35-261.
Figures:
- Soldier in running crouch, Hornet
ref. BH04.
- British tank crew WWII, Verlinden
Productions ref. 0311.
The turret from the Panzer 38(t) was painted with XF-60 toned down with XF-57 and XF-2 (All Tamiya references).
The camouflage on the turret has been airbrushed with the help of some masking tape using XF-63 toned down with a
small amount of XF-2. Dirt has been made following the same treatments usually employed on any military vehicle.
The ground is a mixture of plaster, acrylic paint, powdered pigments thin sand and water. Once it all dried up I used
several powdered color pigments, grass and fallen leaves.
P A I N T I N G
When time came to choose a camouflage scheme I opted for the British
camouflage scheme popularly known as
Mickey Mouse. This scheme was
named after the famous cartoon character because the camouflage spots
resembled the ears of the character.
This camouflage scheme was first used
from 1944 onwards and was seen in
British and Commonwealth units in
Normandy and the following French,
Belgian and the Netherlands campaigns. This scheme basically consists
The bunker has been painted with
Humbrol enamel 95, and the
splintered camouflage scheme has
been made with the help of masking
tape using Tamiyas XF-1. Vertical
dirt trails that usually appear on the
surface of concrete have been made
by melting various oil paints.
18
White carpenters glue has been used

to glue the MV Products lenses on
the kits headlights. These items help
to add an extra touch of realism to
any kit.
on a number of black spots on a Khaki

Drab SCC15 base color that visually
break up the lines of the vehicle. The
spots had to have semicircular shapes
on the vertical and slanted surfaces,
and cover up the horizontal surfaces
completely.
I airbrushed the kit entirely using
Tamiyas XF-51 (85%) and XF-60
(15%). Then I did a dark mixture with
XF-1 and highly diluted XF-52 using
Tamiyas X20a thinner and used it to do
some detail profiling on the details and
carved areas, and used XF-60 to create a
few highlights.
Once I did that I began to work on
the camouflage pattern. I painted the
peculiar spots using a brush and highly
diluted (using water) Model Colors
950; I first drew the outline, and then I
filled up the shapes using a thicker
brush, going over it several times. Then
I used my airbrush (set on very low air
pressure) kit to create a few highlights
on the camouflage by using highly
diluted XF-63.
Then I used my brush to paint the
box on the rear of the turret using Model Colors 897. I did some detail profiling on the box and the corresponding
camouflaged areas using the mixture
employed earlier (XF-1, XF-52 diluted
with X20A). In the meantime, and
while I allowed paint to dry up, I painted some of the equipment and other
details on the vehicle.
I used the Micro Set and Micro Sol
decal fixing products for attaching
decals, and then I protected the kit
using an overall coat of Model Air satin
varnish, airbrushed in thin layers. Then
I created some wear in the paintjob by
doing a few enamel filters on P241,
P242 and P246 allowing each color to
dry up separately.
Later on I increased the paint wear
effect throughout by melting a few oil
The cover for the motor has been
given a dust layer with powdered
pigments on enamel thinner. Grease
stains have also been painted.
19
The roadsing,
made with an
Evergreen sheet
has been dirtied
with powdered
pigment P024.
The letters in it
are Decadry
transfers.
The figure has
been painted
with Model
Color acrylics
following the
classic technique
of highlights and
shadows. Base
color for it was
921.
COLOR CHART
TAMIYA (acrylics)
XF-1 flat black
XF-2 flat white
XF-51 khaki drab
XF-52 flat earth
XF-57 buff
XF-60 dark yellow
XF-63 German grey
PANZER ACES
(acrylics)
302 dark rust
MODEL COLOR
(acrylics)
882 middlestone
897 bronze green
921 English uniform
950 black
976 buff
MODEL AIR
(acrylics)
60 satin varnish
THE FILTER (enamels)
P241 brown
P242 tan
P246 grey
20
HUMBROL (enamels)
34 matt white
64 matt light grey
95 matt concrete
VAN GOGH (oils)
105 titanium white
209 cad. yellow
227 yellow ochre
305 cad. red
409 burnt umber
411 burnt Sienna
623 sap green
701 ivory black
TITAN (oils)
80 bitumen
MIG PRODUCTIONS
(pigments)
P023 black smoke
P024 light rust
P025 standard rust
P033 dark mud
P034 Russian earth
P037 Gulf war san
Two Verlinden
figures have been
placed on the turret.
These are hardly
visible through the
portholes or hatches,
making their
respective paintjobs
a whole lot easier.
Only the head and
shoulders are
painted in both
cases.
paints. I worked on separate areas,

moistening the surface with Humbrol
enamel thinner, and placing small
amounts of oil paints smearing them
with a brush soaked in thinner. The
result was transparent paint veils that
enhance the vehicles general appearance. The colors used were 227, 105,
209, 623, 411 and 409.
Then I took care of the paint chips. I
used a mixture of Model Colors 882
and 976 for the superficial scratches,
and Panzer Aces 302 for the deeper
ones. I used a thin brush for painting
both.
And finally I took care of adhered dirt
and sand with the use of Mig Pigments
P033, P034 and P037. I created mud
splashes by diluting these pigments on
enamel thinner, and put them on the tip
of a hard tipped brush, and splashed it
on the kit with low pressure air from my

airbrush kit. When these mud splashes
dried up I found out that I had achieved
a pretty realistic effect; the areas where
mud splashes were not wanted I
removed pigments with a brush and
some water.
I left the polished metal effects for the
end, doing them with pencil lead. The
black soot on the exhausts and on the
gun was created with pigment P023.
Grease and oil stains were done with oil
paint 80, a very useful oil paint reference that was diluted in different proportions for the different extremely
convincing-results obtained.
BACKGROUND
The area where the action takes place
is located on the north eastern part of
the Rhine, on the final stages of the war.
The Germans took advantage of the natural barrier formed by the river and built
permanent defense structures throughout
hoping to stop the invasion of their territory. Among the units commanded by
Field Marshal Montgomery that liberated
the Netherlands in fierce combat, we
could find the 1st Canadian Army.

I built the base with Polyfoam material
(as usual) and cut with a knife, different
levels into it. I glued on a corner of it
(using white carpenters glue) a resin Mig
Productions bunker which includes a
Panzer 38(t) turret that I didnt glue in
order to paint easily. I also glued some
dandelions provided by Hobby 37. Before
I worked up the background, I painted
the blocking structure and all other
obstacles using Humbrol enamel 95. I
put some dirt into it doing some enamel
washes with 64 and 34, and added a few
dirt trails with some oil paints.
The ground is a mixture of textured
plaster, Mig color pigments, and thin
sand mixed with some water. I applied
this paste with a hard brush: I collected
the paste on the tip of the brush and
then placed it on the ground and patted
it down.
When the allies found these defensive
structures, they sent down the engineers who used bulldozers and explosives to clear obstacles and landmines. I
portrayed one of these bulldozed passages after some vehicles had trodden
the ground and left the surface printed
with all sorts of wheel and track marks.
I created these prints with spare wheels

from an old kit.
When the mixture had dried up I used
a soft brush to place a few powdered
color pigments that were fixed in place
with drops of enamel thinner. Then I
placed a few small roots, artificial grass
and a few Hudson & Allen dried leaves.
The Canuck (name given to the
Canadian soldiers) is an old white metal
Hornet reference of a Tommy (British
soldier) with tin leather strap for the
gun, which I manufactured. This figure
and the entire crew of the armored vehicle were all painted by my old friend
Diego J. Jimnez Molina with acrylic
paints.
BIBLIOGRAPHY
- BUONO, Benedict. Canadians
in WWII, in Eurouniformes
No. 24 (October-November
2004), Accin Press, Madrid,
pgs. 16-24.
Black camouflage spots on this Staghound were carefully painted by hand

one by one. A hard job, but well worth the effort.
21
22
ID. badges. CDN stands for Canadian

Armed Forces. The letter before the
serial number refers to the
recruitment district.
Uniform and equipment of Canadian

Infantry Troops between 1944/45.
The Battledress uniform designed
in Britain was created in 1942. It was
a dark kaki green colored cloth of a
better quality than its British
counterpart. It was commonplace to
use the camouflage net as a scarf in
order to avoid friction between the
neck and the leather jacket.
The 1937 model made in Canada,
(also a British design), was a deeper
yellow than its British counterpart.
The British Mk. III helmet was
usually worn covered with the
camouflage net. Canadian troops
usually employed the cover of the
water canteen to keep the lunchbox
inside.
All platoon commanders like this
caporal were armed with a submachinegun Sten Mk. II. You can see
the regiment name by his shoulders:
Queens Own Rifles. Underneath
you can read the country Canadaand further down youll see the
division insignia: a blue rectangle
belonging to the 3rd Infantry Division
and underneath it all you can see the
caporal gallons.
23
24-33 KOMMAN ingles:PzI.F 18/04/13 3:25 Pgina 24
By: Joaqun Garca Gzquez
Tamiya
1/35
During the first stage of WWII, the automotive units of the Wehrmacht
conquered most of Europe using the Blitzkrieg (thunder-lightning-war). These
victories can be attributed to the highly professional training of the higher
ranking officers and also to the extensive training of all intervening units.
he mobility of the command

officers on the different fronts
was paramount. One of the
vehicles employed for this purpose was
the Steyr Kommandeurwagen, manufactured by the Austrian firm Steyr. This
vehicle was manufactured using the
chassis of a 1500A/01 truck as dictated
by the directives of the Schell plan of
1940, which established the standards
for the army vehicles destined to carry
different kinds of loads.
The Wehrmacht was well pleased
with this vehicle which could carry a
maximum speed of 100km/h on well
paved roads. The vehicle was propelled
by an 8 cylinder gas motor having 85hp
(horse power) it had four forward gears
and a rear one: Excellent gear arrangement all in all.
The Kommandeurwagen command
version was designed with comfort in
mind and seated five people. All its seats
were leather lined and the front one
could recline and turn into a bed. This
vehicle was regularly used by commanding German officers from northern Africa
to Russia.
I have placed this vehicle in a diorama
representing Normandy after the allied
landing.
A S S E M B L Y
This Tamiya kit is exceptional: A simple array of parts, clean molding and a
perfect fit. I like the styrene tires on the
kit, because rubber ones tend to harden
and crack over time. In other words, the
kit is a joy to the hobbyist.
I bought the Eduard photo etched
sheet for the vehicle, because I wanted
to improve significantly on the kit. I took
from the sheet: the ventilation grilles
covering the motor, the gear shift guides,
fuel can fastenings, the clutch pedals,
the brake, the accelerator, and the textured (to avoid slipping) metal floor
planks. This set also contains a transpar-
KITS USED
Model:
-German Steyr Type 1500A
Kommandeurwagen, Tamiya
ref. 35235, 1/35 scale.
Photoetchs:
-Steyr 1500 Kommandeurwagen,
Eduard ref. 35286.
Building:
-Ruined building sections,
Verlinden Productions ref. 1533.
Accessories:
-Jerrycans, Italeri ref. 402.
-Brick walls, Italeri ref. 405.
-Red bricks, Verlinden Productions
ref. 1447.
-Building accessories, MiniArt ref.
35005.
Figures:
-Panzergrenadiers, Panzer Lehr
Division (Normandy 1944),
Dragon ref. 6111.
-Chasseur de Chars 2. Pz.Div.
Normanie Juin 1944, Nemrod.
The vehicle has been

painted with a mixture of
Gunze Sangyos H-403
and Tamiyas X-2 and
XF-57. In order to give
this mixture the adequate
gloss finish, a few drops
of gloss varnish were
added to the mixture.
The thin camouflage lines
have been made using
Tamiyas XF-61 and
XF-64. Both colors were
toned down with XF-4.
25
Weathering and
other paint defects
were achieved with
the usual oil paint
treatment, using
colors: 21, 46, 39,
45, 41, and 11. The
lines between the
planks on the
chassis were
darkened with oil
paint washes
with 45.
The background is modeled using Das Pronto putty paste and before it dries up we have created some wheel prints. Sand
and pebbles of different calibers are glued using white carpenters glue. The thick part of the foliage is made out of foam
rubber used by model train hobbyists.
Leather on the seats was created

using a base mixture containing
XF-1, some gloss varnish and
Tamiyas X-26. I followed the
standard figure painting techniques,
doing highlights using Model Color
Acrylics 39, 956, and 982 applied
with a brush.
Earth and debris are painted with
XF-52, and are highlighted using
XF-15 and shadowed with XF-10.
The foliage is painted with a mixture
of XF-4 and XF-5. The Verlinden wall
has XF-7 and XF-64. All of the above
Tamiya references have been applied
using an airbrush kit.
ent acetate sheet with the speed meters

printed in black ink. All these elements
make assembling the vehicle a fun and
easy experience.
I finished the assembly phase by
doing a few dents on the fenders: I heat-
ed them by getting them close to a small

electric welder (Being careful not to melt
plastic away) and created dents by pressing them against a wood block.
We take to the brushes now and use

Model Color acrylics to take care of
some details like loose stones, a few
bricks, etc. We make the wall stand
out by hanging a poster and an
advertisement both created by
Verlinden Productions
(refs. 23 and 1264).
THE BASE
Its important to choose the proper
base size, and arrange in a simple, yet
effective way the elements which are
going to be in it: The figures will be
placed in a small depression on the
ground so they are set against the vehicle and let you see the details in it. The
ruins on the bottom will act as a background and will help you get a feeling of
verticality.
We apply an overall wash on oil paint

45 to profile details and create depth
within the details. Then the wall
needs some dirt provided by some
washes on Humbrol enamel 72.
Debris on the ground is a mixture of
cat litter sand, Italeri and Verlinden
bricks painted with Tamiyas XF-57.
The inner part of the wall has a
mixture of XF-2 and XF-3. These
have undergone the same treatments
used on the ground.
P A I N T I N G
Before we begin painting, we should
know what goal we pursue, and what is
what we want to transmit with our
choice. Each kit has precise demands in
that sense. We should not turn our kit
into a complete exhibit of our talents.
We should come to reason and take only
the adequate steps to create the scene
that we want to portray.
In this particular case were dealing
with a command vehicle, which has
been adequately taken care of with the
right amount of maintenance. When the
US Army unleashed the Cobra Operation
to weaken German resistance, the Germans began to lay hands on everything
available, so it makes sense for this vehicle to show minor defects, even if most
of it is in a very acceptable state.
28
Plant life around is further enhanced

by additional vegetation provided by
the now defunct brand Silflor. These
are glued on the foam rubber surface
which provides the bulk needed. The
bright colors are then toned down by
airbrushing highly diluted Humbrol
enamel 72. When finished I applied a
few touch ups on the walls and
ground applying some colored
powdered pigments, oil paint and
acrylic paint.
COLOUR CHART (Steyr)

GUNZE SANGYO (acrylics)
H-403 dark yellow
TAMIYA (acrylics)
X-2 white
X-22 clear
X-26 clear orange
XF-1 flat black
XF-4 yellow green
XF-7 flat red
XF-57 buff
XF-61 dark green
XF-64 red brown
MODEL COLOR (acrylics)
861 glossy black
956 clear orange
982 cavalry brown
MIR (oils)
11 Persian yellow
21 cinnabar green
39 ivory black
41 yellow ochre
45 raw umber
46 burnt umber
HUMBROL (enamels)
29 matt dark earth
72 matt khaki drill
MIG PRODUCTIONS
(pigments)
P028 Europe dust
P033 dark mud
BIBLIOGRAPHY
- BUFFETAUT, Yves. Les Panzer
en Normandie, in Militaria
Magazine Hors Serie No. 1,
Histoire & Collections, Paris,
1991.
The pile of debris is treated with

powdered pigments P027 and P029
applied with a soft brush.
29
The Nemrod resin head of the

grenadier has also been changed
for a Hornet reference that I had in
my box of spares. The bottle and
the Panzerfaust are both
Tamiya references.
The officer is a plastic figure

manufactured by Dragon, improved
with a Warriors head, and Hornet
hands. The map is Plus Model
reference.
The figures pants have been dirtied

using sand colored acrylic paints
applied in very well measured paint
washes. The final touch consists of
powdered color pigments.
Its important to vary the color tone from one item of clothing to the next. The
Feldgrau cloth was manufactured by different companies was also subject to
manufacture dates, and changing availability of tissue. This created varying
tones of Feldgrau, and that should reflect in our miniatures.
30
The windshield and the windows are

dirtied by airbrushing Tamiyas
XF-57. On the windshields, masking
tape was used to create the clean area
where the wipers act.
The figures have been painted

with Model Color acrylics
using the usual method of
highlight and shading
techniques following a
zenithal light source.
COLOUR CHART (Base)

TAMIYA
(acrylics)
XF-2 matt white
XF-4 yellow green
XF-5 flat green
XF-7 flat red
XF-10 flat brown
XF-15 flat flesh
XF-23 light blue

XF-52 flat earth
XF-57 buff
XF-64 red brown
MODEL COLOR
(acrylics)
908 carmine red
956 clear orange
982 cavalry brown

986 deck tan
990 light grey
MIR (oils)
45 raw umber
HUMBROL
(enamels)
72 matt khaki drill
MIG
PRODUCTIONS
(pigments)
P027 light dust
P029 brick dust
We apply some dirt to the vehicle using Humbrol enamels 29, 72 and some Mig Pigments. The
rings on the sides of the tires are cleansed, because in real life much dirt is cleansed as well by
the wheels movement.
34-37 CARRISTA RUSO ingles:PzI.F 18/04/13 3:38 Pgina 34
By: Diego J. Jimnez Molina
Alpine
1/35
The German invasion of the USSR which began on June the 22nd
1941, began with a number of defeats suffered by the RKKA (Red
Army of Workers and Peasants) and almost obliterated all of its
armored resources. An urgent policy of reconstructing these with
new means was instantly put to effect, and a new generation of tank
crewmen had to learn the job on the hardest of circumstances. The
armored division was reborn out of its ashes to become the war
machine that eventually reached Berlin on early 1945, and gave
Germany its greatest defeat in history
34
his diorama portrays a Soviet

tank crewman in 1944, year (in
the calendar of the Great Patriot-
ic War) that became the apex of sacrifice

in the liberation of their national territory.
We can also see in this diorama the
remains of an old T-26, used by the

Nazis to police the area and fight the
partisans.
den Productions) and Mig Productions

powdered color pigments applied with a
spatula on a wooden peg texturized with
a hard brush. Before the mixture dried up
I placed on a corner the turret of a T-26
made by Italeri (Zvezda original mold)
with a few custom modifications (rivets
mainly), and painted following the techniques explained elsewhere in reviews of
this magazine. Once the background
was completely dry I used white carpenters glue to put a few Hudson & Allen
dry leaves and some mushrooms modeled with putty (bi-component one)
On the shoulders, the sow marks,

lapels and buckles on the Jacket,
weve used a greater amount of 921
and 913 in order to convey the usual
wear on leather implements.
The turret has been painted by
following the usual techniques used
for painting vehicles. The impact on
the side has been pierced with a
triangular shaped X-acto knife, and
twisting it around.
The leather strap and the holster
have been made with a mixture of
AC-16, 950 and 817. Then shadows
were created with the addition of 861
and 828, and highlights include 948.
KITS USED
Figure:
- WII Russian Tank Crew, Alpine
Miniatures ref. 35040, 1/35 scale.
Complements:
- Head from a WWII Russian
Tanker 1943-45, Alpine Miniatures
ref. 35012.
- Turret from a T-26 Soviet Tank,
Italeri ref. 359.
- Static Grass Autumn/Winter
Brown, Verlinden Productions ref.
638.
- Forest Litter, Hudson & Allen
Studio ref. HA-9403.
The resin figure, sculpted by Taesung

Harmms, belongs to the Alpine Miniatures catalogue. The modeling as usual
with this brand is excellent; the only
modification it can hardly be called
that- was trading the figures head for
another one of the same brand.
The background is a mixture of plaster, acrylic resin, artificial grass (Verlin-
P A I N T I N G
Preparing the figure before we begin
painting was just the usual thing: Get rid
of molding lines with wet sandpaper
(500 or 600 gr.) puttying the parting
lines between different pieces (using a
number 2 brush) and washing the figure
with some soap and water to clean
35
The ground is a mixture of plaster tinted with color powdered pigments,

static grass and acrylic resin. The turret was slightly sunk into the ground
before it dried up.
COLOUR CHART
817 scarlet
822 Germ.cam. black brown
828 wookgrain
845 sunny skin tone
861 glossy black
872 chocolate brown
876 brown sand
913 yellow ochre
917 beige
921 English uniform
945 magenta
946 dark red
36
948 golden yellow

950 black
951 white
960 violet
965 Prussian blue
966 turquesa
TAMIYA (acrylics)
XF-24 dark grey
MIG
PRODUCTIONS
(pigments)
P034 Russian earth
P038 African earth
pigment
ANDREA COLOR
(acrylics)
AC-16 medium brown
AC-38 Napoleonic green
AC-45 gloss varnish
residue and grease provided by my fingers.

I stuck the figure on a temporary base
in order to be able to manipulate it without touching it. I primed the figure by airbrushing Tamiyas XF-24. Priming resin
figures is essential; I used to employ
PANZER ACES
(acrylics)
316 dark mud
lighter colors for priming, but I like darker

figures better now.
I took my brushes and some Model
Color acrylics and did an initial shading
job using a mixture of 872 and 950. The
reason I did this is because I wanted to
pin down the transition area between
The mushrooms, modeled with two

component putty, were painted
before gluing them to the ground.
The leaves on the ground are a
Hudson & Allen reference.
highlights and shadows and get the profile lines into the figures clothing. Getting those deep profile lines into the
clothing would be an extremely difficult
thing to do once the figures already been
painted.
Then I began working on the eyes on
the figures face. I usually paint the white
area in the eyes, using white and some
grey, a touch of red etc. I m always on
the lookout for new color ranges, even if
at this scale all efforts go largely unnoticed. Then I painted a thin line to create
the eyelids using a dark brown shade,
more specifically 822, which was also
used to trace the iris. Then I filled it with
966 highlighting it with 951. Then I took
care of the flesh tones using a mixture of
876 and 946 and did the highlights by
adding 845 and 917 and the shadows
with greater amounts of 946 and 921. I
also performed a number of paint veils
with 817 combined in different proportions with 921, 960 and 945 in the figures cheeks, nose, temples, etc.
The figure has been effectively set on a simple background, the modeling
of it and the T-26 turret didnt take that long to build.
Glass on the goggles has been conveyed with two drops of gloss varnish.
I continued the job by painting the

leather jacket using a base color containing Panzer Aces/Armor Models 316
mixed with 950 and 921. I highlighted
this color with 921 and 913 and provided
the shadows with 950. When dealing
with black clothes like this leather jacket
you can create an infinite array of paint
veils: Depending on the colors you mix
with black (blue, flesh tones, beige etc.)
we will obtain results that will help us
convey all kinds of tissues, and recreate
the lighting conditions of our chosen
environment (a cloudy day, a sunny day,
a deep forest area were light is blocked
by the trees, etc.). It may seem a little far
fetched, but its always good to explore
new techniques.
Lets go back to the painting process,
and specifically to the figures pants. I
closely followed my research material and
created a greenish tone obtained by mixing Model Colors 921, and Andrea Colors AC-38 and AC-16. I highlighted this
item of clothing using 913 and 948, and
Dirt on the figure was done after it was glued

to the ground. The colors used on the ground
were also used as dirt on the figure.
gave it some shadows with 965, AC-38

and 950.
Once I was done painting the straps,
gloves and boots, I stuck the figure to
the diorama using Cyanocrilate glue.
Then I put some dirt into the figures
knees and some other areas using the
same color powdered pigments used for
the ground. I used a soft brush for the
pigments.
I just have to say goodbye for now
and conveniently thank my friend Javier
Redondo for helping me on the diorama,
thanks that also extend to Jos Hernndez and his teachings, and to Carlos de
Diego Vaquerizo editor of this magazine
for helping me write this review. See you
later and have a good time painting your
stuff!
BIBLIOGRAPHY
- SHALITO, Anton,
SAVCHENKOV, Ilya and
MOLLO, Andrew. Red Army
uniforms of WWII, in
Europa Militaria No. 14,
Windrow & Greene, London,
1993.
- MOLLO, Andrew and Mc
GREGOR, Malcolm. Army
Uniforms of WWII,
Blandford Press, London,
1973.
- ZALOGA, Steven J. and
VOLSTAD, Ron. The Red
Army in the Great Patriotic
War, in Carros de Combate
No. 71, Osprey Military/RBA,
Barcelona, 2001.
37
38-44 PANZER IV ingles:PzI.F 18/04/13 3:59 Pgina 38
By: Mario Gabs Ruiz
Picture credits: Ral Fernndez Ruiz
Tristar
1/35
Im not going to bother with the historical background on this vehicle, because
most of us already know a great deal about the operational lifespan of the Panzer
IV. Its possible to find a rather large amount of research material about it just
about everywhere, so if you want to know the details check the bibliography.
A
A
38
s youll see at first glance I did

a somewhat special and seldom seen version of this vehicle. This is particularly evident in terms
of its paint scheme. This vehicle belongs
to the 21. Panzerdivision as pho-
tographed in Normandy in 1944. I wanted to portray this unit a long time ago; I
remember the first time I looked at it in a
book my father brought home when I
was 14. The book was an old Osprey
special on the Panzer IV. As soon as I
saw it I ran to the nearest hobby store to

purchase the kit, but I was headed for
disappointment The owner of the store
told me that no styrene reference of the
vehicle was available on the market. The
only thing you could do was to trans-
decals by Cartograph. I was rather eager

to begin, so I decided to assemble the kit
right out of the box, getting only a set of
new Modelkasten tracks. I only did this
because the ones in the box are not the
ones on the unit I wanted to portray.
As I said, the kit got me hooked at
first sight, but as I moved forward I realized that the instructions on the sheet
were a little confusing and that posed for
me some serious issues When gluing
the bogies to the barge I found out that
the wheels collided between it selves, so
I had to move them apart a little. When I
got together both halves of the hull I
realized that the rear did not fit together
well, so I was forced to test it fit in many
ways until I finally got it right and could
use glue.
After I did the cables for the headlights using very thin copper wire I substituted the kits Noteks headlights for
resin ones created by Mig Productions.
Then I glued all the tools and the fastenings for them included in the photo
etched sheet that comes with the kit.
KITS USED
form a resin kit (I believe that the resin

kit was produced by MB Models an
American brand-) which was something
out of my reach at that time.
Thats how my project got postponed
indefinitely Several years later I found
out that Tristar was going to release a
Panzer IV Ausf. C, so as soon as I saw it
in the hobby store I bought it right away
and a few months ago I began to assemble it; so this is the story
A S S E M B L Y
The Tristar kit is a kit that gets you
hooked as soon as you open the box: A
huge amount of plastic pieces with some
incredible detail, the kit comes with a
photo etched sheet and some excellent
Models:
- Panzer IV Ausf.C, Tristar ref.
35017 1/35 scale.
Tracks:
- Panzer III/IV, Modelkasten ref.
3508K.
Accessories:
- Stowage set for Panzer IV, Blast
Models ref. 35087K.
- Notek light, Mig Productions
ref. 35-130.
- Storage boxes for late Pz. III
variants, Mig Productions ref.
35-147.
The next thing I did was the tower,

and its assembly is a little troublesome:
Few pieces and none of them fit well. I
can hardly believe that this is a new state
of the art kit. I had to sand the edges of
the lateral hatches in order to fit them
into their respective fitting places. I also
had to put lots of putty in the commanders dome in order to fill the gaps
between the different pieces that this
area is made of. The worst however, were
the armored planks, (the ones that form

an angle in the front) those just leave too
much space open, so I had to use several
thin Plasticard strips to close those open
spaces on the sides.
I finished the tower by trading the
plastic handles for ones made of regular
wire and copper wire, I placed one of
dragons MG 34s and made a little stand
COLOUR CHART
HUMBROL (enamels)
33 mat black
145 mat medium grey
H-403 dark yellow
TAMIYA (acrylics)
X-22 clear
XF-2 flat white
XF-26 deep green
XF-60 dark yellow
XF-67 NATO green
302 dark rust
304 tracks primer
306 dark rubber
307 red tail light
310 weathered wood
311 new wood
313 stencil
314 canvas
315 light mud
316 dark mud
325 Russian tanker I
MIG PRODUCTIONS
(enamels)
P241 brown
P220 dark wash
MIR (oils)
1 titaniu white
7A cadmium yellow deep
45 raw umber
46 burnt umber
50 bitumen
502 ABTEILUNG (oils)
035 buff
MARABU (varnish)
1108 matt varnish
MIG PRODUCTIONS
(pigments)
P023 black smoke
P024 light rust
P025 standard rust
P026 concrete
P027 light dust
P028 Europe dust
P034 Russian earth
P230 old rust
39
for it using leftover photo etched pieces.

On the rear I glued a rectangular resin
box (made by Mig Productions). On the
period pictures we can see that this vehicle did not carry a storage box like this
one, but I took some small artistic
license, hoping that purists will somehow forgive me.
On the front part I placed some resin
spare track links made by Blast Models.
base for further paint treatments and

gives away any assembly mistake.
I obtained base color by mixing
Tamiyas XF-60 and Gunze Sangyos H403 and a hint of XF-2. I airbrushed this
mixture in a couple of thin layers, and
allowed it to dry for two days. Then I
masked those areas that wouldnt get the
green splintered camouflage spots. This
takes time, because in order to avoid
taste, but it really helps me later on when

I recreate dirt.
Several hours later (once varnish dried
up), I applied several brown colored enamel (Mig Productions) color filters. If you are
cautious enough and allow enough drying
time (a few hours) between each layer,
then this is your product because this
product gives an interesting nuance to the
camouflage colors.
The camouflage pattern has been

outlined with masking tape, and then
it has been airbrushed throughout.
This set also had two spare wheels and

some canvas which I also used. I
replaced the Tristar tracks by the Modelkasten ones that I mentioned earlier.
These tracks are made of injected plastic
links that are assembled together wonderfully well and that meant that in
about a couple of hours they were all
ready to paint.
P A I N T I N G
40
I first primed the vehicle using 145

Humbrol enamel, which creates a good
paint leaks its best to use thin masking

strips for outlining the contours and
then fill in by using bigger strips. It certainly is a bother to do, but doing it will
prevent touch ups later. The green camouflage tone was created by mixing
Tamiyas XF-26 and XF-67 and did also
apply it in two (thin) airbrushed layers.
I allowed it to dry for a couple of
hours and carefully removed the masking
tape. Then I took my brush and used
Panzer Aces 306 and applied it on the
wheel bands. Then I needed a satin finish and airbrushed a real thin layer of
gloss varnish. This is just a matter of
Afterwards I did some paint gradations, by melting oil paints 46, 45, 1,
7A, and 035. I also created a few transparencies on some areas using tiny
amounts of the oil paints referenced.
These can hardly be noticed but they create very pleasing color gradations.
I allowed oil paint to dry up for a
couple of days, and then I began profiling all details: rivets, joint lines between
armored planks, etc. I used to do this
using oil paint 45, but I tested on this kit
Mig enamel P220, and found out that the
results are good and that you can do it
easily.
The machine gun has been painted

using Humbrol 33 and then Ive
created a metal finish with pencil
lead. (Using the powder you obtain
by sanding pencil lead).
A light spreading of Mig Productions
color powder pigments especially on
the lower parts of the vehicle and the
flat areas adds a finishing touch.
In order to do the infamous paint

chips I used two Panzer Aces acrylics:
302 on the deep ones, and 315 for the
superficial ones and the slight scratches.
I also used Tamiyas XF-60 to do a few
paint chips on the green camouflage pattern.
After doing a few dirt trails and rust
by melting some of the oil paints mentioned earlier and some Mig powdered
color pigments (highly diluted in Humbrol enamel thinner) and even using a
few Panzer Aces acrylics my kit was
almost ready. However, I felt that I needed something more, so I created a few
more transparencies on some areas but
using only highly diluted Panzer Aces
acrylics. I used: 315, 316, 510 and 304.
When I was finally pleased with the
results I varnished the kit airbrushing
41
The exhaust has been painted with Humbrol enamel 33, and rust is created using Mig Productions color pigments P024
and P025. This has been done with a brush, insisting until a convincing effect was obtained.
Marabu mat varnish (a couple of layers)

and allowed it to dry for a few days.
Then I painted the tools and other
accessories and the headlights using specific Panzer Aces acrylics. I also used a
soft pencil on some areas to convey
some areas worn to a polish, and used
oil paint 50 to create fuel spill stains.
Spare tracks also received some Mig

Productions powdered color
pigments. The canvas load
has been painted using
Panzer Aces 314, the
crests on its creases
have been highlighted
with 315, doing it the
same way its done
when you paint
figures. The canvas
painted with 325,
has been
highlighted with
313.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
In spite of the troubles I had with the
kit, I am pretty pleased with the results,
because doing this vehicle in this version
was for me a project pursued for years. I
hope you enjoyed it as much as I did.
I would like to thank Luis Fernando
Solanas, Daniel Blasco and Luis Fuster
for their advice and help.
I would also like to extend my
thanks to Miguel Jimnez Mig and all
of his advice and comments, which were
absolutely invaluable.
BIBLIOGRAPHY
The tracks have been primed with

Humbrols 145 and then theyve been
covered with two layers of Panzer
Aces 304 and received a wash with
316 and then another one with 315
(Panzer Aces refs.). I finished the
tracks by putting some dirt simulated
with Mig Pigments and imitated
metal polished edges using a soft
leaded pencil.
On some areas on the tracks Ive

glued some grass to give the kit a
natural and realistic look.
- ANDERSON, Thomas. Panzer

IV, the short gun variants, in
History File No. 3, Accin
Press, Madrid, 2007
- PERRET, Bryan and SMITH,
David E. The
Panzerkampfwagen IV, in
Vanguard No. 21, Osprey
Publishing, London, 1980.
SILUETEAR
44
We can see here, the array of paint chips and scratches and the effect created by profiling all crevices and depressions.
2_Portada_PanteraING_62 ES Suscrip.qxd 21/04/13 19:09 Pgina 62
32
pag
We start a new series of Model Laboratory with a Sd.Kfz.171 Panther and the intention of offer you
an exhaustive step by step of the realization of this model kit, from the building to the painting.
Also you can find some profiles and a gallery with Panthers of several authors.
Accion press
C/Ezequiel Solana, 16 bajo, 28017 Madrid, Spain
www.euromodelismo.com/shop suscripciones@euromodelismo.com
Historex Agents
Wellington House, 157 Snargate Street, Dover, Kent CT17 9BZ
www.historexagents.com
46-54 BT-5 ingles:PzI.F 18/04/13 4:12 Pgina 46
By: Joaqun Garca Gzquez
Color profiles by: Carlos de Diego Vaquerizo
UM
1/72
The Bystrojodnii Tank or fast armored vehicle was a vehicle design based
on the American Christie T-3 tank created in 1931. In the nineteen twenties,
the USSR believed that a vehicle that could move both on wheels and on
tracks would be quite useful. This idea was embodied by the BT-2 an
armored vehicle created in 1931. The vehicles tracks could be removed in
about 30 minutes by an expert crew.
I
46
n 1933 the BT-5 an improved version- came out of the Steam factory Komintern (KhPZ 183) in
Jarkov. The vehicle was equipped with
simple convex wheels, a more powerful
motor, a sturdier transmission and a bigger turret (exactly like the one on the T26) that housed a 45mm gun. Obviously,
the weight of this vehicle (5.43m long,

2.19m wide and 2.34m high) increased
to 11.5 tons. It had a water cooled M-5
modified 12 cylinder V shaped motor
with a 350cv power, 2300 rpm that propelled the vehicle at a rate of 72km/h
(this motor was a modified airplane
motor).
Unlike the T-26, the BT-5 was a deep

penetration vehicle and not an infantry
support or backup. Its number one
advantage was its speed on its tracks
(this vehicle was seldom used without
them). However it had a setback: the
tracks often got unhooked from the
wheels especially in fast turns.
KITS USED
Model:
- BT-5 Soviet Wheel-Track Tank,
UM ref. 301, 1/72 scale.
Photoetches:
- Net, Abder ref. S 15.
Figures:
- USSR Infantrymen on a Tank,
Preiser ref. 72523.
Doing from scratch all the rivets on the sides of both the turret and the hull was
indeed the most painstaking thing to do. The hatches on the turret and all other
small pieces were built using thin Plasticard sheet. The handle on the front
hatch was made with copper wire.
The grille that covers the motor was taken from an Aber photo etched sheet.
The frame of the grille and the rear fenders were also made out of thin
Plasticard sheet. The silencer on the exhaust has been fitted by sanding it, the
smoke outlets were made out of sanded Evergreen strips.
The rivets on the sides of the turret were

totally wanting because of the lack of
detail in the mold. The photo etched
sheet was rough and without detail on
most pieces so I threw it away. To cap it
off a few details were entirely omitted
and others were simply out of scale.
I was still however in love with the kit,
so I decided to spend some extra time
and effort into its completion and hopefully succeeded.
P A I N T I N G
Even if at the time of the Nazi invasion the T-34 was already in production,
the BT-5 and the final run of the BT-7
were the backbone of the RKKA inventory. The inefficiency of these machines at
the beginning of the conflict was in
greater part due to inadequate tactic use,
deficient training of the crews, and
mechanic problems that arose from the
vehicles own design. The landscape of
the first weeks of this conflict was a trail
of destroyed and or abandoned BT-5s
and BT-7s alongside the Soviet roads.
A S S E M B L Y
The UM kit was a pleasant surprise I
found on a trip. I entered into a small
model kit store (by no means a specialized store) and I saw a few old kits from
this brand. I opened up the boxes to
check and found out that they were fairly
accurate in shape and scale and they also
had a small photo etched sheet and
injection molded tracks on separate links.
As soon As I started assembling it, the
defects became immediately apparent:
I was set on doing some research, and

planned a number of (pretty high) painting goals that gave me both my share of
joy and pains. I just wanted to paint my
1/72 kit as pretty as possible on the scale
given.
The color I began with was a Tamiya
acrylic mixture of 60% XF-61, 20% XF-58,
10% XF-49 plus 10% Gunze Sangyos
H-60. I gave this mixture a satin metallic
gloss by adding a few drops of Tamiyas
gloss varnish. I began by creating a few
highlights by airbrushing the above mentioned mixture with some XF-4 added to
it. I applied a second highlight coat
with XF-57 on the mixture to further
enhance the effects. I created some contrast to these highlights by profiling the kit
with a well diluted mixture of XF-1 and
XF-10.
I gave the kit a layer of dirt using
Humbrol enamel 72 and partially
removed it from some areas with a brush
and some thinner about 15 or 20 minutes later, as you can see in the pictures.
Its very important to choose well the
areas where you leave or remove dirt; reference material should be kept handy.
I gave the kit some color by melting
small oil paint pellets throughout the sur-
47
Base color is airbrushed in thin layers

until the kit is completely covered.
Highlights are airbrushed on the
edges of the armored planks,
horizontal areas, etc.
face. I used oil paints 620, 67, 224 and

617 on the green areas, and 234, 92, 86
and 538 on the dirt areas. When it all
dried up I worked on the kits profiles
with oil paints 701 and 403.
Then I created the paint chips using
Model Color acrylic 975 for the superficial chips and a mixture of 817 and 950
for the deeper ones that show rusty steel
underneath. Ive always believed that
you should not exaggerate paint chips;
lots of paint chips dont necessarily
mean a more realistic finish.
I like to work on the kit by stages,
because then I can carefully spend time
on each step for each stage. As soon As
I finished the upper part of the hull I
centered myself on the wheels and
tracks. I used the same techniques
employed above, but insisted on the
brown and sand oil paint ranges and
added some sand colored powdered color pigments.
The profiling of the armored planks,

hatches, etc. is airbrushed with low
air pressure on your airbrush kit using
well diluted paint. Vertical dirt trails
are also applied.
48
Once weve covered with white paint the cross (meant to be seen by
airplane) not worrying too much about straight lines as in real life,
we cover the exhaust with a mixture of acrylics 950 and 982 (both
Model Color references). After that we apply an enamel paint filter
on Humbrol 72 to convey dirt accumulated on the vehicles crevices.
In order to increase the color tones on the kit we apply a few enamel
filters with Humbrols 120 and 15. The corners which are normally
subject to be worn to a polish we carefully airbrush the mixture used as
base color for our kit.
The different nuances and the paint

gradations of an operational vehicle can only
be obtained with an intense oil paint
treatment. These should be smeared
throughout using Humbrol enamel thinner.
Paint chips
are made with
acrylic paint
and are
painted with
a brand new
number 1
brush.
Depth in the details of the hatches,

dark areas in crevices and other
scribed features are created with
brushwork on oil paints 701 and 403.
Its important to make the paint

chips in the right scale and size; the
opposite takes the realistic effect
away.
After weve airbrushed Humbrol

enamel 72 on those areas that usually
accumulate dirt, we wait a few
minutes, and then we partially
remove this using a brush and the
brands own enamel thinner. This
gives us a very realistic patina.
49
Once weve created dirt trails and oil

splashes using oil paint 80, the tracks
and the lower areas are treated with
the same techniques used for the
upper part of the kit but putting the
stress on sand colored paints.
THE
SCENE
I enjoy placing vehicles on their original environments. I chose for this one a
simple, yet effective composition rather
nice for displaying the kit to full advantage.
I used some modeling paste to create
a small dirt road where we can see a few
infantrymen walking alongside the BT-5.
Preiser has a wide ranged injection molded plastic figure catalogue on a 1/72
scale. These figures are created in a
multipose system; this means that you
can easily create different combinations
of heads, torsos and limbs to get the
pose you need for your dioramas.
I painted both the ground and figures
following the usual techniques. Its very
important to be able to adapt the painting techniques to the scale and this
sometimes means that you have to simplify the process or simply adjust it to
the smaller scale. You have to be brave
enough to create enough contrast
between the highlighted and the shadowed areas. The captions underneath
the pictures will tell you the mixtures
used in every stage.
50
Adhered sand on the tracks is created

with powdered color pigments on
several different colors (see color
chart) adhered with oil paints of the
same color range diluted with
Humbrol enamel thinner.
Once the figures are clean

and assembled, we can
prime them by airbrushing
Tamiyas XF-66.
The skin tones are created

with Model Color base
paint 927 highlighted with
845 and 918. Shadows are
created with 921 and 817.
The clothes are painted

with 924. Highlights
are added with 845 and
918 on the base color.
Shadows are created by
adding 887 and 950.
The color of the

weapon contains
871, 950 and 956.
This color is
highlighted with
845.
The knapsack on 882 has

been highlighted with
918 and shadowed with
873 and 950.
The helmet, painted on 897

has been highlighted with
882. Shadows for it were
done with 925 and 950.
Black color on the

boots has been
highlighted with 871
and a little bit of 845.
When you are working

on detail profiling in this
scale you should use a
very thin brush in
perfect conditions.
COLOURR CHART
TAMIYA (acrylics)
X-22 clear
XF-1 flat black
XF-4 yellow green
XF-10 flat brown
XF-49 khaki
XF-52 flat earth
XF-57 buff
XF-58 olive green
XF-61 dark green
XF-66 light grey
H-60 IJA green
950 black
951 white
982 cavalry brown
HUMBROL (enamels)
15 midnight blue
72 matt khaki drill
120 matt light green
VAN GOGH (oils)
224 Naples yellow red
234 raw Sienna
403 Vandycke brown
538 Mars violet
617 yellowish green
620 olive green
701 ivory black
TITAN (oils)
67 cinnabar green
80 bitumen
86 yellow ochre light
92 yellow ochre reddish
817 scarlet
845 sunny skin tone
871 leather brown
873 field drab
882 middlestone
887 brown violet
897 bronze green
918 ivory
921 English uniform
924 Russian uniform
925 blue
927 dark flesh
950 black
956 clear orange
975 military green
CITADEL (acrylics)
Boltgun metal
MIG PRODUCTIONS
(pigments)
P028 Europe dust
P033 dark mud
P034 Russian earth
51
The ground is done with modeling paste on a cork

base. Before the modeling paste settles we will
give it some texture using a used toothbrush and a
small stone. After weve glued some sand and
pebbles using white carpenters glue we also glue a
bush which is in fact a seaweed branch collected
on the beach.
Base color for the dirt road has been painted with
XF-52. The sides of the road have been highlighted
with XF-57, and the center is shaded with a
mixture of XF-52 and XF-1. All of these Tamiya
references have been applied with an airbrush.
Then we can do some detail profiling
to add some color with a dark
sand colored oil
paint palette.
BIBLIOGRAPHY
- ZALOGA, Steven J. and VOLSTAD, Ron.
Red Army in the Great Patriotic War, in
Armored Vehicles No. 71, Osprey
Military/RBA, Barcelona, 2001.
- DE DIEGO VAQUERIZO, Carlos BT-5, in
Todo Modelismo No. 55 (February 1997),
Ediciones Contrastes, Madrid, pgs. 14-18.
52
Well finish the ground by spreading powdered color pigments and gluing the figures and the tank.
Scarce as it is, vegetation is painted in greenish colors.

The tracks on the vehicle are painted with Model Colors 873. These also received a somewhat intense dry brush treatment
with Citadels Boltgun Metal color. Work on the tracks was finished with earth colored oil washes and pigments.
53
BT-5 (mod. 1934), RKKA, Byelorussian Military Ditrict, USSR, September 1935.
BT-5 (mod. 1934), Rgto. de Carros Pesados, Div. de Ingenios Blindados, Spanish Republics Popular Army, Fuentes del
Ebro, Spain, October 1937.
54
BT-5 (mod. 1934), 1st Guards Armored Brigade, Moscow, USSR., November 1941.
56-63 AULA ingles:PzI.F 18/04/13 4:18 Pgina 56
Modelling lessons
By: Jess Prez Hulamo

Picture credits: Fernando Caellas Planchuelo
US TANK CREW
Among all the hobby disciplines, painting and assembling figures isnt probably the
easiest one. However, if we already have the adequate paint mixtures ready for the
different colors of the figures uniform, the task turns a whole lot easier.
ollowing a thorough study of all

the tank crew people of WWII, Accin Press
created a number of paint
sets that Vallejo Acrylics
sells under the Panzer Aces.
We can find in those sets
the base color for each uniform plus a lighter color of
the same range to do the
highlights. As with all other
acrylic paints, these products can be mixed together
with any other Model Color
references for instance.
Beginner and midadvanced hobbyists will discover how easy it is to work
with these paint sets,
because paint doesnt
almost smell, can be easily
spread, it dilutes in water
and dries up pretty quickly.
Advanced hobbyists will
find out that these sets save
a lot of figure painting time.
This review will show the
step by step painting system on a US tank crew.
Beginner Hobbyists dont necessarily
have to follow every step described,
because these steps should only be
closely followed by advanced hobbyists.
Beginner hobbyists should only use this
review as a general guideline. I just
hope that every one of you will take the
main ideas adapt them to their abilities,
and keep enjoying our hobby.
56
Priming the figure with a highly

diluted mixture of XF-59 and
XF-49. Paint is airbrushed with a
pressure of bar.
We add XF-15 to the priming
mixture and airbrush it from the
head to get some highlights and see
some volume.
Brushwork begins with a watered

down mixture of Panzer Aces paints
318 and 322.
By increasing the amount of the

lightest color reference we begin to
increase the highlights on the crests
of the clothing folds. We should use a
number 2 brush.
Further mixtures with increasing

amounts of the lightest shade are
used for increasing highlights. By
going over several times with
watered down paint we will obtain
a gradual smooth highlight.
Light strokes will light up in a subtle

way the shoulders, forearms, clothing
folds etc.
In order to increase the highlight and

a put a range of color into the
highlight itself we add a little 323.
Basic shadows are created with

paint filters on 318 mixed with 333.
We will work on the creviced areas
(inner part of arms and legs for
instance) and inside the creases on
the clothing. The darkest areas will
only get the second paint reference.
57
1-Now well work

with both the lights
and shadows,
increasing either one
wherever necessary.
Working on the whole
figure at once helps
you equilibrate both
effects.
2-3-The final
highlights include 344
added to the final
highlight mixture.
Using a diluted version
of this mixture and a
number 1 brush will
help us light up details
like seams and zippers.
We can also mark the
contours with the
previous shadows
mixture.
7
4
10
8
11
9-Boots are painted

with 333.
10-The folds on the
leather surface are
highlighted with 337.
11-A greater
proportion of the last
reference will be
useful to create the
impression of well
used leather. The
shadows on the folds
are painted with
Model Colors 950.
4-The patches on the

figures arms have a bluish
base obtained by mixing
309 and 333. The blue area
on the triangular patch
contains Panzer Aces 309
and 344, the yellow area
953 and the red one 908
both Model Color
references.
58
5-The rank insignia and the

T that stands for
technical personnel are
painted with 332. The
edges for both are lighted
up with 344. After weve
lighted up the triangular
division patch with 344 we
paint its inner design with
337.
6-The elastic clothing

elements are painted with
a mixture of 334 and 336.
Highlights are done by
adding 340 and 313 to the
previous mixture, and for
the shadows add 337.
7-The binoculars, painted
on Model Colors 950, can
be noticeably lighted up
with Panzer Aces 333. The
leather strap is painted

with 312.
8-Once weve lighted up
the leather strap using
Panzer Aces 341, chipped
areas can be done using a
number 1 brush and Model
Air 63. The lenses are
conveyed with a drop of
Model Color gloss varnish.
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
12-Both hands and face get

Panzer Aces 341 base
paint.
13-The first highlights are
subtly applied on the chin,
nose cheeks and the arc
above the eyes. The
mixture used contains 341
and 342.
14-The same mixture is
used to apply the next
highlights on the same
areas. We need to dilute
paint in order to deposit
the pigments gradually
over a number of
20
20-The helmet is dealt

with a couple of layers
with the following
mixture: 333 and 348.
21-Highlights are obtained
by adding 323. This color
is used to create some
specks on the upper area
of the helmet and its
edges.
applications, until we get

the desired effect.
15-In order to get a good
overview of the results
were obtaining, we
interrupt the highlighting
process and begin to create
the shadows. We use
extremely diluted 343 and
apply paint filters
underneath the chin, nose,
cheeks and eyebrows. We
begin the eyes by
sketching the eyelashes
with a line of 333.
16-Areas like the eye lines,
nostrils or lips are marked
with 343, the same color

reference employed to
proceed with the shadows
before. The white area on
the eyes is taken care of
with a mixture of 342 and
313.
17-After were done
painting the iris in the eyes
using 309 lighted up with
313 both the lights and
shadows on the face are
strengthened with a few
more highlights and
shadows. The last
highlight requires 342 and
313.
21
22
24
25
24-Rust on the steel

helmet is created with
302.
25-Excess gloss can be taken

care of with a paint wash of
323, which also gives it a
dusty look. Final shadowing
is created with 333.
18-An unshaved face will

create some character into
our figure. Using a well
diluted mixture of 342 and
333 we put a five oclock
shadow into the figures
jaw and upper lip area.
19-The beard is slightly
lighted up by adding more
342 to the mixture. The
congestion in the face
(effect of cold weather) is
achieved with a filter
below the nose, lips and
cheeks with a mixture of
343 and 908.
23
22-Shadows are created

from the bottom upwards
applying color filters of
base mixture with greater
amounts of the darkest
color in it.
23-Paint chips on the
surface are created with
tiny dots created with a
number 1 brush dipped on
Model Airs 63.
59
The quality of the figure that goes

alongside a vehicle must also match
the level of expertise of the
hobbyist.
KITS USED
Figure:
- US Tank Crew in winter 1, Alpine
Miniatures ref. 35033, 1/35 scale.
COLOUR CHART
TAMIYA (acrylics)
XF-15 flat flesh
XF-49 khaki
XF-59 desert yellow
Displayed in conjunction with

an M-20 (Italeri ref. 366) by
Carlos de Diego Vaquerizo.
60
COLOUR CHART
302 dark rust
309 periscopes
312 leather belt
313 stencil
318 US Army tankcrew
322 highlights US tankcrew
323 highlights USMC tankcrew
332 Japonese tankcrew
333 German tankcrew (black)
334 German tankcrew I (Feldgrau)
336 highlights Afrikakorps
337 highlights German (black)
340 highlights Afrikakorps tankcrew
341 flesh base
342 highlights flesh
343 shadows flesh
344 white (German tanker)
348 Splinter strips
510 glossy varnish
908 carmine red
950 black
953 flat yellow
MODEL AIR (acrylics)
63 silver metallic
Tools
employed for
painting this
figure sculpted
by Taesung
Hermms: An
airbrush
(priming) and
number 2 and 1
brushes.
61
JACkET AND PANTS
Airbrush Priming
XF-49 + XF-59
JACkET AND PANTS SHADOWS
1st shadow
Base color + 333
Detail profiling for highlights

322 + 323 + 344.
DIVISION PATCH
1st color
953
Highlight
Above + 313
Airbrush highlight
Above + XF-15
2nd shadow
333
Detail profiling for the

contour
333 + 318
2nd color
908
Base
318
Highlight
Above + 313
1st highlight
Above + 322
3rd color
309 + 313
2nd highlight
Above + 322
3rd highlight
322
Highlight
Above + 313
4th highlight
Above + 323
Detail profiling and inner

design on patch
333
ELASTIC ELEMENTS ON THE JACkET
RANk INSIgNIA
5th highlight
Above + 323
Base
334 + 336
1st highlight
Above + 336
6th highlight
Above + 323
7th highlight
Above + 344
Shadows
Base + 333
2nd highlight
Above + 313
Background
309 + 333
Gallons
332
zIPPER
8th light
Above + 344
62
318 + 333
Metal on the zipper

63
Highlight
Above + 344
FLESH TONES
Base
341
5th highlight
Above + 342
1st highlight
Above + 342
2nd highlight
Above + 342
6th highlight
342
3rd highlight
Above + 342
7th highlight
Above + 313
4th highlight
Above + 342
8th highlight
Above + 313
9th highlight
Above + 313
BINOCULARS
FLESH SHADOWS
Base
950
1st shadow
Base + 343
Highlight
base + 333
2nd shadow
Above + 343
Chips
63
3rd shadow
Above + 343
Strap
312
4th shadow
343
Highlight
Base + 341
Paint veil on cheeks

908 + 343
Highlight on five oclock

shadow
Above + 342
HELMET
Base
348+ 333
1st highlight
Above + 348
2nd highlight
Above + 323
Shadows
Base + 333
Five oclock shadow

342 + 333
Metal
63
3rd highlight
Above + 323
Rust
302
EYES
Base
333
White area
342 + 313
Iris
309
Shade
Above + 313
63
64 ING STAFF OK:ESP STAFF 18/04/13 4:26 Pgina 64
Publishing Manager
Rodrigo Hernndez Cabos
Editor in Chief
Carlos de Diego Vaquerizo
Translated by
ndres Snchez Gonzlez
Have collaborated in this issue:
Juan Luis Mercadal Pons
Javier Redondo Jimnez
Diego J. Jimnez Molina
Joaqun Garca Gzquez
Mario Gabs Ruiz
Jess Prez Hulamo
editorial
We often see how veteran hobbyists are faced with a recurring dilemma; the
evolution of model kit production renders some kits that were formerly
considered accurate and were built with tender loving care obsolete. What shall
we do? Do we abandon old kits and embrace those presumably better novelties?
That is the situation that Juan Luis Mercadal faced with his Panzer II. He decided
to finish his old kit (old kits never die) and capped off the job with an
outstanding paintjob to boot. When the kit of this late Staghound
reconnaissance vehicle with a Crusader turret was made, Best Value Models
created a kit that combined a resin turret with a styrene body that matched
Broncos. Bronco has produced since the whole kit in styrene and can now be
built straight out of the box. Javier Redondo also shows us his jagged
background with a bunker recreating an attractive scene painted with the usual
techniques.
A vignette of such small dimensions can be quite successful when the
background is so well made and combines the use of crew figures. As usual
Joaqun Garca Gzquez, creates a superb composition with very few items as
we can find out in this review with a Steyr 1500A as our star.
Many hobbyists are still scared stiff when it comes to painting figures even if
we know that in some cases this is just a matter of laziness because of the many
reviews and specialized courses readily available. Diego J. Jimnez amply proves
this with his work on this Soviet tank driver.
When I first saw this venerable Pz. IV in a period picture hidden in a forest
in Normandy, I felt curious: How did this unit survive until 1944? This is a
most interesting piece because of the anachronism of the model and because
of the splintered camouflage (out of use in this period). Perhaps the
combination of all these factors and the exquisite charm of this piece by Mario
Gabs all went into it.
The evolution of the 1/72 scale has paralleled the bigger kits and this perhaps
explains why more and more hobbyists decide to work in this scale. Joaqun
Garca Gzquez demonstrates the quality level possible in this diminutive BT-5
with matching figures.
We take an in depth plunge into figure painting to cast away all fears in a full
review by Jess Prez Hulamo, who shows us a step by step method to paint
with a very reasonable level of excellence a good figure. Following this process
will definitely help us paint a good figure to accompany our vehicle kits.

64
Photographers
Fernando Caellas Planchuelo
Ral Fernndez Ruiz
Illustrations
Carlos de Diego Vaquerizo
Lay Out
Ral Fernndez Ruiz
KOMMAD S.L.
Printed by
IBERGRAPHIC 2002
Scanning & Filmsetting
ACCIN PRESS, S.A.
J. David Hernndez Chacn
Ral Fernndez Ruiz
Computer Graphics
J.David Hernndez Chacn
Editorial and Technical Staff,
Administration and Advertising
ACCIN PRESS, S.A.
c/Ezequiel Solana, 16
28017 Madrid
Tel.: 913 675 708
914 086 135
Fax: 914 085 841
accionpress@euromodelismo.com
Subscriptions
North American Subscription6
MMD-Squadron
1115 Crowley Drive
Carrollton, Texas 75011-5010
USA
In Spain:
Valentn Garca Bez
Tel. +34 913 675 708
Published by
ACCIN PRESS, S.A
ISSN: 1886-4457
The reproduction of the images and
texts is prohibited, using any
current or future technical medium
without written consent of the
author. ACCION PRESS, S.A. does
not necessarily support its
collaborators opinions.

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PORTADA 30 ING:PORTADA 19 ING 18/04/13 2:02 Pgina 1

62 AfrikaKorpsING_62 ES Suscrip.qxd 21/04/13 18:22 Pgina 62

New Monographic, Now On Sale!

1. INDICE ingles:ESP.NDICE 18/04/13 4:35 Pgina 1

Staghound Mk. III

Steyr 1500A Kommandeurwagen

Soviet Tank Crewman

BT-5 (mod. 1934)

MODELLING LESSONS: US Tank Crew

2-13 PANZER II ingles:PzI.F 18/04/13 2:54 Pgina 2

2-13 PANZER II ingles:PzI.F 18/04/13 2:55 Pgina 3

By: Juan Luis Mercadal Pons

Pictures by the author

A few years ago I began

2-13 PANZER II ingles:PzI.F 18/04/13 2:55 Pgina 4

This vehicle saw active service for a

2-13 PANZER II ingles:PzI.F 18/04/13 2:55 Pgina 5

utes later it is partially removed using

pigments manufactured by Mig Productions have also been used (diluted in

where needed. I used enamels, oil paint

Now the gun previously painted with

The camouflage spots on XF-60 are

The flag used for airplane

After weve dirtied the kit with three

2-13 PANZER II ingles:PzI.F 18/04/13 2:56 Pgina 6

Paint chips are made with a No.

dered Mig pigments: P028 and P037.

around the commanders hatch, etc. are

are painted with 314 of the same brand.

At this stage we create a number of

2-13 PANZER II ingles:PzI.F 18/04/13 2:56 Pgina 7

minum sheet and the flag is a tin sheet

Internet. I had to do this because all the

smell and can be diluted using water.

The figure is painted with acrylic paints

2-13 PANZER II ingles:PzI.F 18/04/13 2:57 Pgina 8

On the axis of the wheels colored

2-13 PANZER II ingles:PzI.F 18/04/13 2:57 Pgina 9

341 flesh base

2-13 PANZER II ingles:PzI.F 18/04/13 2:57 Pgina 10

Pz.Kpfw. II Ausf. F (Sd.Kfz. 121),

2-13 PANZER II ingles:PzI.F 18/04/13 2:57 Pgina 11

14-23 STAGHOUND ingles:PzI.F 18/04/13 3:07 Pgina 14

ost units ended up being

37mm gun and a 7,62mm Browning

devices such as the automatic hydraulic

14-23 STAGHOUND ingles:PzI.F 18/04/13 3:07 Pgina 15

By: Javier Redondo Jimnez

Figures by: Diego J. Jimnez Molina

The Staghound was designed by the Chevrolet

14-23 STAGHOUND ingles:PzI.F 18/04/13 3:08 Pgina 16

done with my kit, Bronco finally

14-23 STAGHOUND ingles:PzI.F 18/04/13 3:08 Pgina 17

14-23 STAGHOUND ingles:PzI.F 18/04/13 3:09 Pgina 18

14-23 STAGHOUND ingles:PzI.F 18/04/13 3:09 Pgina 19

White carpenters glue has been used

on a number of black spots on a Khaki

14-23 STAGHOUND ingles:PzI.F 18/04/13 3:09 Pgina 20

paints. I worked on separate areas,

14-23 STAGHOUND ingles:PzI.F 18/04/13 3:10 Pgina 21

on the kit with low pressure air from my