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How to replace your 2WD Super Duty Ball Joints

Tools required:
Hand wrenches, including Torque wrench
Ball Joint Press (can be borrowed from Advance Auto, Napa, etc., and make sure it
has the proper fittings for the Ford Superduty, and have them show you how to
arrange the various cups, etc. before leaving the store)
All parts to be replaced (ball joints, wheel bearings if being changed, etc.)
Floor jack (I use a 3-ton jack)
Jack stands (I use 6-ton stands)

1) Chock at least one rear wheel and raise the front of the truck off the ground and
support it safely on jack stands.

2) Remove the front wheels.

3) Remove brake caliper from the caliper mount. (You may have to compress the
pistons in the caliper to slide it off.) Don't let the caliper hang by its hose.

4) Remove the two bolts that hold the caliper mount to the knuckle.

5) Using a flat blade screwdriver or small hammer with minimal force, remove the dust
cap from the end of the brake rotor. Remove cotter pin, nut retainer and nut that
holds the brake rotor to the knuckle/spindle assy. Remove outer wheel bearings and
brake rotor.

6) Remove the rotor shield (3 screws) from the knuckle.

7) Remove the cotter pin and nut that attach the tie rod end to the knuckle. Separate
tie-rod from knuckle. (Do not use a pickle fork (tie rod separator) on this unless you
intend to replace the tie-rod ends as well.) I thread the tie-rod nut back on upside
down until the bottom of the nut is flush with the end of the tie-rod. I then use a
scrap piece of aluminum (or other metal that is softer than the steel tie-rod
material), hold it in place on top of the tie-rod and nut and use a small sledge
hammer to knock the tie-rod loose.

8) Remove cotter pin and loosen lower ball joint nut. (Run the nut up flush with the top
of the threads but do not remove, and it may help to turn the steering wheel so that
you can get better access to the ball joint nut.)

9) Remove upper ball joint pinch bolt.

10) Using a pickle fork and small sledge hammer, knock the lower ball joint out of the
housing. Only the bottom ball joint has a tapered shaft. (The nut that you left on in
step 8 will keep the knuckle from falling all the way out.)

11) Clean everything up and remove as dirt, brake dust, grease, rust, etc. as possible
from everything.

12) Clamp the knuckle in a vice for convenience (if available). Remove snap-ring from
lower ball joint. Using a ball joint press, remove the upper and lower ball joints.
13) Clean any remaining rust and junk from where the ball joints go into the knuckle.

14) Install the new ball joints using the ball joint press. Install new snap-ring on lower
ball joint. (If you purchased greasable joints, install the grease zerks only partially
so you can get them into final position after the ball joint knuckle assembly is
reinstalled on the truck.)

15) Install the knuckle onto the suspension arm and loosely install the nut on the lower
ball joint.

16) Tighten* the lower ball joint nut and install cotter pin. (If the upper ball joint cam
sleeve begins to slide out of the suspension arm while tightening the nut, use a
large socket to tap it back down.)

17) Reattach tie-rod end to knuckle* and install cotter pin.

18) Finsih tightening the grease zerks, making sure to orient grease them for easy
maintenance access.

19) Install rotor shield to knuckle.

20) Now is the perfect opportunity to install new wheel bearings and seals into the brake
rotor. Pack wheel bearings and rotor with a high quality grease and install on the
knuckle/spindle assy. Install spindle nut, nut retainer and cotter pin. (Do not over
tighten or you will damage the wheel bearings) Reinstall dust cap by tapping lightly
around outside edge until fully seated.

21) Reinstall the caliper mount , brake pads and caliper assembly. (Before you install
the caliper mount, it’s a good time to make sure the caliper slide pins are clean,
greased and sliding properly.)

22) Put the tire/ wheels back on.

23) Jack up vehicle and remove jack stands.

24) Lower vehicle completely.

25) Remove the rear wheel chock, and you’re ready to go.

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