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Content
Origins of sulfate free and current market status
Chemistry options to formulate away from sulfates
Iselux as the solution
Formulating high performing sulfate free systems
Summary
Why go sulfate-free?
Concerns over alkyl sulfates and alkyl ether sulfates in
personal cleansers started >10 years ago as a small fringe and
an internet blog.
Over the past c. 7 years consumer concern over the use of alkyl
sulfates and alkyl ether sulfates has grown significantly.
O
S - +
O M
O
Alkyl Sulfate
O
S - +
nO O M
Advantages
Disadvantages
Relatively inexpensive
Excellent detergency
Rinse easily
Easy to use
- Good water solubility
- Can be thickened effectively with salt
5
1,400
North America
Number
1,200
Europe
Asia Pacific
1,000
800
600
400
200
0
2003
2004
2005
2006
2007
2008
2009
Year
2010
2011
2012
2013
2014
2015
We have dedicated the majority of our R&D expansion since then to support
our customers in sulfate-free formulating
A significant percentage of our applications / formulation effort is in the
segment
We have expanded our claim support competency to support sulfate free
product claims
Commercial
Sulfate
Shampoos
10
Typical non-Iselux
Commercial Sulfate-Free
Shampoos
EO Origin
Inorganic
Sulfate
Hydrophobe
Origin
Foam
Optimum pH
Irritantancy
Ease of
Formulation
Thickening
SO3
Anionic
Trace/Low
Nat
Excellent
5.5-8.5
Moderate
Dif
External
Yes
SO3
Anionic
Trace/Low
Nat
Excellent
5.-9
Moderate
Easy
Betaine/Salt
No
SO3
Anionic
Syn
Excellent
3-11
Harsh
Easy
External
Yes
COO
Anionic
Nat
Moderate
>5.5
Mild
Easy
External
Acyl Glycinates
Pureact SLG
Yes
COO
Anionic
Nat
Excellent
>7
Mild
Easy
External
Alkylamphoacetates
Pureact LAA
Yes
COO
Amphoteric
Nat
Moderate
>5
Moderate
Easy
External
No
SO3
Anionic
Syn
Excellent
3-11
Harsh
Easy
Betaine/Salt
APG's
Pureact Gluco
Yes
NA
Nonionic
Nat
Low
4.5-8.5
Mild
Easy
External
Betaines
Fatty Acid Soaps
No
No
COO
COO
Amphoteric
Anionic
N
N
N
N
Nat
Nat
Moderate
Moderate
>5
>6
Moderate
Harsh
Easy
Easy
External
External
Yes
COO
Anionic
Nat
Moderate
>6.0
Moderate
Easy
External
Yes
SO3
Anionic
Trace/Low
Nat
Moderate
3-11
Moderate
Mod
External
No
Pending
No
SO3
SO3
SO3
Anionic
Anionic
Amphoteric
N
TBD
N
Y
Y
Trace/Low
Nat
Nat
Nat
Moderate
Moderate
Moderate
3-11
5.5-8.5
3-11
Moderate
Mild
Moderate
Dif
Easy
Easy
Betaine/Salt
External
External
Acyl Isethionates
Pureact SCI
Acyl Methyl Isethionates
Iselux
Sarcosinates
Pureact LSR
Sodium Methyl Acyl
Taurates
Pureact WS
Sulfoacetates
Sulfosuccinates
Sultaines
12
Polar
Head
Yes
PRODUCT
Innospec
supplies
Class
13
Type
Primary
Secondary
Sulfosuccinates
Pureact MD-318
Alkylamphoacetates
Pureact LAA
Betaines
Sultaines
Acyl isethionates
Iselux
Pureact WS Conc, MS
Acyl sarcosinates
Pureact SLR
Acyl glycinates
Pureact SCG
APGs
Alcohol ethoxylates
Sulfoacetates
14
Iselux
Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate
15
Iselux
Applications as primary or secondary surfactant
Sulfate-free
1,4-Dioxane-free
Nitrosamine-free
EO / PEG-free
17
Benefit
Readily biodegradable
Derived from renewable resources
Formulating flexibility
SLMI
Iselux
SCI
Iselux Flake
(80-85% Active)
Iselux Liquid
(32-34% Active (in water))
Iselux has the same foam height as SLES but has a denser,
creamier foam and is a considerably milder surfactant .
18
120
Number
100
80
Latin America
Asia Pacific
60
North America
Europe
40
20
0
2009
2010
2011
2012
Year
19
2013
2014
2015
Recent launches
featuring Iselux
20
Secondary/Co-Surfactants
Cocamidopropyl Betaine
Sodium Lauroamphoacetate
Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate
Sodium Methyl Acyl Taurates (Coco and Oleic Acid)
Glycinates
Akyl Glucosides
Thickening
Electrolytes
PEG Esters
Natural/Synthetic Polymers
Conditioning
21
Cationic Guars
Cationic Cellulosics (PQ-10)
Synthetic Polymers
Silicones/Silicone Derivatives
pH Stability Range
5.0 9.0
6.0 8.0
Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate (Pureact I-series)
6.0 8.0
Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate
6.0 8.0
Sodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate
Viscosity @ 25C
4% Active Betaine (topped fatty acid reduced C8 and C10 fatty acid)
(pH 6.0)
24
% NaCl
18000
16000
14000
Disodium Oleamido MIPA
Sulfosuccinate
(Pureact MD-318)
12000
10000
8000
6000
4000
No co-surfactant
(Control)
2000
0
0
0.5
1.5
2.5
3.5
% NaCl
Brookfield RVT @ 20rpm, 25C, #5 spindle pH 5.8
25
10000
6000
No co-surfactant
4000
2000
Decyl Glucoside
(Pureact Gluco D)
0
0
0.5
1.5
Salt %w/w
26
2.5
Coacervate
Neat shampoo
(Coacervate is
Solubilised)
27
1 : 10 dilution
(average dilution for
application on head)
(Coacervate precipitates)
Sedimentation
of coacervate
28
29
30
5.00
3.00
5.00
10.00
7.00
2.25
1.00
0.20
0.50
Innospec Premium
Pantene Pro-V Classic
Sulfate-Free Shampoo
Care Daily Shampoo
DV-12-251F *
Appearance @
25C
Opaque, Pearlescent
Liquid
Opaque, Pearlescent
Liquid
pH (As Is)
5.8
6.4
Viscosity @ 25C
11,780 cps
9,760 cps
% Non Volatiles
20.8
23.3
* NOTE:
PEG Free
% Inorganic Sulfate < 350 ppm
31
Innospec formula
has ~11% lower
solids
32
* significant at 10%
** significant at 5%
*** significant at 1%
Appearance @
25C
pH (as is)
Viscosity @ 25C
% Non Volatiles
* NOTE:
PEG Free
% Inorganic Sulfate < 350 ppm
33
Innospec Premium
Sulfate-Free
Shampoo
DV-12-251F *
Opaque, Pearlescent
Liquid
5.8
11,780 cps
20.8
EverPureTM/MC volume
Shampoo
Opaque, Pearlescent
Liquid
6.19
11,860 cps
34.7
Innospec sulfate-free
shampoo vs Everpure Volume Shampoo
34
35
36
Products
Ingredients
% naturally
derived
Iselux SFS-SB
80
Iselux SLC
77
84
ISELUX SFS
Formulated, Sulfate-Free Concentrate
37
Suspended
material
38
39
40
Viscosity, cps
RVT spindle 5, 20
rpm @ 20C
% NaCl
41
42
tony.gough@innospecinc.com