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Zemea Propanediol
Consumer Sensory and
Moisturization Testing

Denis Burlaud, EMEA Account Executive

In-Cosmetics 2015 - Barcelona, Spain

Our Company
Joint venture formed in 2004 between DuPont and Tate & Lyle to
produce biobased propanediol from fermentation of glucose.

DuPont is a world leader in science and

innovation across a range of disciplines,
including agriculture and industrial
biotechnology, chemistry, biology,
materials science and manufacturing.
2014 revenues were $34.7 billion.

Tate and Lyle is a global provider

of renewable ingredients,
solutions and services to food,
beverage and industrial
customers.
2014 revenues were $4.7 billion.

Our Manufacturing Plant

Loudon, Tennessee - USA
12 years R&D effort
Production started in
November, 2006
63,000 metric tons annual
capacity of biobased
propanediol
35% capacity expansion on-line
in 2nd Q 2011.

Zemea Propanediol

Zemea Benefits in Your Personal Care Formulations

Unique solubility properties

No skin irritation or sensitization

Environmentally Sustainable
100% Natural, Petroleum-free
Boosts efficacy of preservatives
Improves sensorial attributes
Excellent moisturizing effects

Zemea Propanediol:
Consumer Sensory and

Moisturization Testing

Consumer Sensory Testing 2009 Protocol

Consumer testing panel : 20 subjects
Objective: Measure the sensory perceptions of O/W lotions
formulated with 5 wt. % varying humectant :
Zemea
Glycerin
Propylene Glycol (PG)
Butylene Glycol (BG)

Evaluations : Blind test with four-day conditioning and three-day

product use cycle. Formulations were randomized.
Results : Subjects completed a daily use questionnaire to report
their level of agreement on a scale of 1 to 7 with 10 different
statements regarding each lotions sensory and use characteristics.
Study conducted by Consumer Products Testing Co., Fairfield, NJ

Consumer Sensory Testing 2009 Results

Zemea Propanediol

% Subjects Strongly Agree or Agree

100%

90%

80%

70%

60%

50%

Propylene Glycol

Butylene Glycol

Glycerin

Skin Moisturizing Performance 2008 Protocol

Consumer testing panel : 10 volunteers aged from 46 to 65
Objective: Measure the moisturizing performance of an O/W skin care
emulsion with 5% varying humectant :
Zemea
Propylene Glycol (PG)
Butylene Glycol (BG)
Control (water)

Evaluations : Each test cream was applied on the forearms of the

volunteers. The control cream replaced the glycol with water to
evaluate the relative moisturization properties of the other
ingredients.
Results : A Corneometer 825 PC (Courage & Khazaka) was used to measure
skin moisturization.
Study conducted by Consumer Products Testing Co., Fairfield, NJ

Skin Moisturizing Performance 2008 Test Formulations

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Skin Moisturizing Performance 2008 Results

Zemea is more efficient than Butylene Glycol and Propylene Glycol

in moisturizing the skin throughout the entire testing period.

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Protocol: Consumer Sensory Testing

Consumer testing panel : 29 subjects

Objective: Measure the sensory perceptions of 3 different

formulations with a varying humectant component:
Zemea (20 wt.%)
Glycerin (20 wt.%)
Zemea/Glycerin Mixture (10 wt.% each)

Applications : On days 1, 2 and 3, each lotion was applied to the

volar side of the forearms.
Evaluations : On day 3, reporting of the level of agreement on a
scale of 1 to 7 with 10 different statements.
Study conducted by Princeton Consumer Research, Princeton, NJ, in March 2015.

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Test Formulations
Wt. %
Brand Name
5.0% Eastman Gem
5.0% Lipex Shealight
65.0% Water
4.0% Arlacel LC
20.0% Zemea
0.1% Ultrapure Xanthan Gum NF
0.9% Germaben II

INCI Name
Ethylhexyl palmitate
Shea Butter Ethyl Esters
Aqua
Sorbitan stearate (and)
Sorbityl laurate
Propanediol
Xanthan gum
Propylene glycol (and)
Diazolidinyl urea (and)
Methyl paraben (and)
Propyl paraben

Manufacturer
Eastman
AAK
Croda
DuPont Tate & Lyle
Ultra
Ashland

Formulations were identical to the Zemea formulation above except

for the humectant component:
Glycerin formulation contained 20% wt. glycerin and no Zemea.
Zemea /Glycerin mixture contained 10% wt. each.
Formulations developed by ACT Solutions Corp., Newark, DE

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Consumer Sensory Evaluations Mean Ratings

Spreads Easily
6.5
Absorbs Easily

Smooth Feeling

5.5
No Filming

Feels Comfortable

4.5
No Greasy Feeling

No Tackiness

Pleasant
Experience

Soft Feeling
Feels Moisturized
Zemea

Zemea - Glycerin Mix

Glycerin

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Summary of Results
Consumer sensory ratings for the lotion containing Zemea
were higher on all of the attributes than the lotions
containing glycerin and the Zemea /glycerin mix.
8 out of 10 attributes were favorable for the Zemea blend
over the glycerin formulated lotion :
Spreads Easily

Feels Moisturized

Smooth Feeling

Soft Feeling

No Tackiness

No filming

Pleasant experience

Absorbs Easily

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Protocol: Moisturization Test

Consumer testing panel : 29 subjects

Objective: Measure the skin hydration levels of 3 different

formulations with a varying humectant component:
Zemea (20 wt.%)
Glycerin (20 wt.%)
Zemea/glycerin Mixture (10 wt.% each)
Evaluations : Using a Corneometer CM825 (Courage and Khazaka,
Germany), moisturization readings of the lower leg area were
taken at 1 hour, 4 hour and 24 hours.
Study conducted by Princeton Consumer Research, Princeton, NJ, in March 2015.

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Corneometer Results

Corneometer Measurements

40

35

30

25

20

15
0

10

15

20

Time (Hours)

Zemea

Glycerin

Zemea - Glycerin Mix

25

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Summary of Results
All formulations produced statistically significant increases in
hydration of the skin vs. the control for the 1 hour and 4 hour
assessments.
No statistical differences in skin hydration were observed
between the glycerin and the Zemea /glycerin mix at all
time-points.
Even at 24 hours, the Zemea blend and the glycerin
formulations were statistically the same in hydration.

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Conclusions of Skin Sensory and Moisturizing Performance

In repeated consumer sensory studies, lotions formulated
with Zemea are rated higher on all sensory attributes than
lotions formulated with glycerin.
Zemea provides good skin hydration results when used in a
formulation at both a 5% concentration as well as higher
concentration levels of 20%.
Zemea can successfully replace glycerin in skin care
applications, enhancing aestethics without compromizing
hydration performance of the formulation.
Zemea blended with glycerin can improve the consumer
perceived aestethics in high moisturizing formula.

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Zemea Commercialized in over 1400 Products Globally

Skin Care:
Cleansers
Facial Cleansers
Body Wash
Shower Gels
Anti-Acne
Hand Sanitizers
Moisturizers
Moisturizing Lotions
Anti-aging Serum
Skin Care Masks
Eye Creams
Scar Massage Gel
Sun Care
Sunscreen Lotions
Sunscreen Wipes
Baby Care Products
Mens Skin Care Products

Hair Care:
Shampoo
Conditioner
Various Styling Products
Toiletries:
Deodorants
Oral Care Products
Personal Lubricants
Cosmetics:
Foundation
Concealer
Mascara
Makeup Remover
Other Ingredients:
Natural Esters
Fragrances
Natural Preservatives
Botanical Extracts

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Thank You for Your Interest!

Zemea the Natural

Preservative boosting
Humectant
www.duponttateandlyle.com/cosmetics