1.2.1 - Triumph Global Quality Manual and Appendix - Edition Jan 2010

Global Quality Manual Raw Material
(Edition: January 2010)
Global Quality Manual - Raw Material (Edition: January 2010)
Preface
The success of a textile and clothing company is essentially dependent on the quality of
its products and producers. On the main materials and sales markets, supply frequently
exceeds demand. This gives rise to intensified competition not only in the area of
pricing, but also on the quality front. As a manufacturer of brand goods and quality
products, we have found it necessary to define a uniform, state-of-the-art set of quality
assurance guidelines.
This document contains information on logistical and administrative processes and tests,
together with the required QA criteria for testing the quality of textile products and
accessories. By applying the different testing disciplines, your company will be in the
position to supply us with high-quality materials on schedule and in line with samples,
thereby contribution to the consistent quality of our ready-to-wear products.
These guidelines apply exclusively for Triumph International.
Other Triumph
companies may have their own requirements and specifications, particularly in relation
to the technical supply conditions for woven and knitted fabrics.
In the future, the decisive factor in maintaining competitiveness will be the ability to
react quickly to changing market conditions, comply with QA criteria governing
materials and procedures, and meet commercial demands.
With this objective in mind, our goal is to overcome the difficult market conditions of
the future through close and trusting cooperation.
Please note that this document is intended for use exclusively in your dealings with our
company, and should not be used or reproduced for any other purpose.
Triumph International
List of Contents
1
1.1
1.2
1.3
Technical Supply Conditions for Woven and Knitted Fabrics

Preface. 1
General Conditions. 1
Profile of Product Requirements for all Shipments to Triumph International .. 2
2
2.1
2.2
2.3
2.4
Testing Manual
Introduction.
Facilities and Apparatus..
Material Inspection.........
Testing guidelines...
3
4
7
8
1
2
3
4
5
6
APPENDIX
Marking Stencil for Extensibility Tests.
Instructions for Performing Spectraphotometric Tests..
Colour Scale Cards for Checking the Colour Homogeneity of a Batch.
Fluorescent Lamp Equipment from VeriVide
Triumph Testing Protocol...
Acknowledgement (Quality and Test Requirements).
i
ii
iii
iv
vi
xxi
Triumph Global Quality Manual Raw Material
Edition: January 2010
1. Technical Supply Conditions for Woven and Knitted

Fabrics
1.1 Preface
The Technical Supply Conditions specified herewith shall apply for all consignments of
materials received by Triumph.
They correspond to the Technical Conditions of Purchase for Knitted Fabrics for knitted
fabrics in general and France Tissu Maille of May 1993.
1.2 General Conditions

1.2.1 Materials must be dyed or bleached to match our colour standards as closely as
possible.
1.2.2 The material finish (feel, softness, surface texture, workability when moulding and
stitching, etc.) must correspond to the approved initial sample.
1.2.3 Technical data must be recorded in a Raw Material Specification (Technical
Specification) approved by us. The current valid form is a Word.doc document
and is provided by Triumph. The filled in Word.doc form must be saved under the
file name: material number, width and suppliers name (11111-999 ABC) and
transmitted via e-mail to the respective purchaser.
Tolerance levels with respect to weight per square metre, extensibility, modulus,
and shrinkage due to washing, etc. must also be listed in the Technical
Specification and require our express approval.
1.2.4 Materials will be accepted as top quality only if the quality expectations and
performance standards can be met as stated in this manual. In the event that it is
found that any materials that have been shipped to Triumph do not conform to the
quality expectations and performance standards, Triumph may reject such
materials. The supplier is then required to promptly correct or replace such
materials with satisfactory materials.
In the case that any dispute arises over any test results, Triumph may require
further tests to be conducted to confirm the results. Triumph will arrange for such
additional testing to be conducted by one of Triumphs quality partners. If the
material is found not to conform to Triumphs performance standard the supplier
shall bear the cost of this additional testing.
The supplier must warrant that all goods supplied to Triumph conform to
Triumphs quality expectations and performance standards. The supplier shall
fully indemnify Triumph against any goods not conforming to Triumphs
standards (for the avoidance of doubt this indemnity shall encompass loss of
profit).
Triumph reserves the right to cancel any items should any material continue to fail
our minimum requirements.
1.3
Profile of Product Requirements for all Shipments to Triumph

International
1.3.1
Our products normally have long lasting and direct contact to human skin. Hence
it is stipulated that no health risk may arise from use. Any substances or
treatments which might be harmful to human health are in conflict with 30
German LFGB and are prohibited.
1.3.2
Any supplier of products for Triumph is required to agree to and declare whether
the raw materials, component parts and other things of value supplied or otherwise
delivered to Triumph comply with international requirements and the requirements
of Oeko-Tex and the REACH regulation.
1.3.3
Should no certificate Confidence in textiles tested for harmful substances

according to Oeko-Tex Standard 100 be available for a certain material, then the
criteria according to the Oeko-Tex Standard 100 must be met all the same.
1.3.4
Triumph requires that PVC (Polyvinyl Chloride) is not present in any of our raw
materials or the packaging it is delivered in. In addition, all packaging must be
BHT free. (The test for BHT should be performed in accordance with test method
ASTM D4275, detection limit 5ppm).
1.3.5
It is a legal requirement that products intended for sale in Japan, do not contain
MONOFIL yarns and it is a general requirement in Triumph that Monofil is not
used in any of our raw materials that may have direct contact with the skin of a
consumer.
1.3.6
For additional information about Triumphs chemical requirements refer to the

Triumph International Vendor Information (TIVI).
2. Testing Manual
2.1 Introduction
According to the standards work ISO 9000/EN29000 written by the European
Committee for Standardization (CEN) as a guide for quality securing, the test methods in
this manual serve to secure the quality standard.
The tests have to be conducted in the given manner by the supplier during the production
process and prior to the dispatch of goods, respectively, and the results have to
correspond to the values stated in the Raw Material Specification (Technical
Specification).
The documentation of the test results from the supplier is the prerequisite for an
uninterrupted proof of quality as well as for a consistent quality securing.
Where equipment is used for testing purposes, it should be calibrated on a regular basis
to ensure the accuracy and consistency of test results. This calibration normally takes
place annually.
Beside the calibration of each measuring instrument, it is important for reliable and
comparable test results to take out specimens at the prescribed stage and to spread elastic
specimens, in particular, for a given time under normal conditions.
The test methods are exclusively applied to consignment of goods. Special suitability
tests and utility tests, as applied, for example, when checking the offer, are not listed in
this manual.
2.2 Facilities and Apparatus

The following tables in Sections 2.2.1 and 2.2.2 list the facilities and apparatus required
to perform the tests specified in the testing guidelines.
2.2.1 List of Facilities
Facilities
Remarks
Dark room
For colour matching.

With a standard atmosphere for conditioning
and testing as specified in BS EN ISO 139.
Conditioned room
The atmosphere should be monitored with a

temperature and humidity recorder and
calibrated with a sling hygrometer.
For all physical tests:
1) The material must be conditioned for
at least 4 hours prior testing.
2) Tests must be conducted under
standard atmospheric conditions.
2.2.2 List of Apparatus
For colour tests
Remarks
Light cabinet
For visual colour testing
Colourimeter
Colour standards
For visual colour testing
Sample file (colour scale cards)
For visual colour testing and general

assessment of the appearance of the fabric
Manual or computerised test card

index
For assessments and measurements
Remarks
Ruler
Metal, calibrated
Pick glass
With a pointer, 1 inch x 1 inch
Die cutter
Thickness gauge
Round, able to measure weight per square

metre.
Thickness Gauge Specifications:
Resolution = 0.01mm
Measuring Range = 10mm
Depth of Jaws = 200mm
Scale Diameter = 54mm
Measuring Pressure = 1.5N
Feeler Shape = (b) 20mm diameter
(Triumph is using Schmidt Control
Instruments model J-100)
Balance
With an accuracy of 0.01g.
Fabric inspection machine
The machine must be tension free when

checking elastic fabric. Triumph is using "La
Mechanica" brand.
Microscope
Protractor
For physical performance tests
Washing machine
Remarks
The machine must be sited in a standard
atmosphere for conditioning and testing
textiles as specified in BS EN ISO 139.
(Triumph is using Zwick)
With accompanying ballast material
Dryer
Exhaust or condensation
Martindale abrasion tester
Pneumatic bursting strength tester
ICI mace snag tester
Indelible markers
Marking stencils
For elongation and stability tests
Scissors
Pendulum testing machine
Tensile tester
For colour fastness and chemical tests
Xenon arc lamp
Remarks
With a rotational speed of 402 rpm and
prescribed temperature 2C
For light fastness tests
Crockmeter
With desized bleached cotton lawn
Perspirometers
With 5kg weights
Oven, incubator or cabinet dryer
Capable of maintaining a specified

temperature at 2oC
pH meter
With an accuracy of 0.02 unit
Agitator
For use when determining the pH value of

aqueous extracts of fibrous material
Mesh drying trays
Non-rusting
Multifibre adjacent fabric
Type DW
All testing facilities should use multifibre
adjacent fabric.
Grey scales
BS EN ISO 105 A02 and BS EN ISO 105 A03
Sewing machine
Electrically operated, single needle, lock

stitch, capable of producing stitch type 301,
using white cotton thread
Balance
With an accuracy of 0.0001g.
Thermometer
With a range of -10oC to +110oC in 1.0oC

graduations
Timers
With audible alarms.
Laundrometer
Including measuring cylinders, pipettes,

Volumetric measuring equipment and burettes, volumetric flasks, beakers, glass
rods, Petri dishes, glass and acylic resin
necessary glass ware
plates
Steel balls
Non corrodible (~6 mm in diameter)
Desiccator
With a perforated plate
2.3 Material Inspection

2.3.1 Responsibility for material inspection
Material suppliers must be able to show the quality of their material by providing
completed inspection reports together with the goods shipped to all Triumph Production
Centres.
Production centres must carry out material inspection for each delivery upon arrival.
2.3.2 Inspection guidelines
Refer to the latest edition of Triumphs separate inspection guidelines manual.
2.4 Testing Guidelines

All parties shall refer to the Triumph Testing Protocol in Appendix 5 for the minimum
testing requirements according to material type for bulk shipments. There are other tests
that may be required depending on fabric type which will specified by Triumph on an
individual basis.
2.4.1 Guidelines for samples for testing
Colour checking:
A small 10 x 20 cm section from each roll of material is required to check the colour
homogeneity of a particular colour batch.
Testing:
For each material type the sample quantity in Table 1 should be taken as a general
guideline for physical, colour fastness and chemical testing per item, colour and size
which may be subject to variation according to material type.
Table 1 Quantity of material required for testing
Material Type
Sample Quantity
Broad width Fabric / Allover Lace
2m full width
Narrow Trimming / Lace
2m (except extra long pattern repeat)
Lace in pair design
2m per each side
Accessories (in piece form)
5 pairs or 10 pieces
Labelling:
All samples must be labelled with their material and batch number.
Note 1: To allow for correlation between the suppliers test results and the material tests
carried out by Triumph International, please note the samples below must be taken 30cm
from the fabric selvedge.
Samples to measure fabric weight.
Samples to measure elongation.
A straight section along the wale of certain elastane elastic fabric for testing adhesive
strength.
Samples for testing shrinkage due to washing.
Note 2: For any necessary counter checking of results by suppliers, Triumph offices or
Triumph quality partners, all samples of material must be taken from the same area or in
close proximity where the sample was taken for the original test.
2.4.2 Sample Files
Since the quality of a material does not depend entirely on its technical properties, but
also on its uniform appearance (i.e. colour and surface quality), samples must be kept
from each batch supplied.
8
2.4.2.1 Continuity samples of fabrics in open width

The following sample files have proven to be most effective:
A5 sections of batches supplied are folded over such that the warp and weft of all
samples are parallel. The folded sections are then stapled in a row of overlapping
samples onto an A4 card, as shown in the example in Appendix 3. An adhesive label is
applied to the corner of each batch sample and indicated the supplier name, the Triumph
material number, the batch number and the delivery date.
2.4.2.2 Continuity samples of narrow elastic and tape, lace trimmings, embroidery,
plastic parts and metal parts
A representative sample from each batch of the materials listed above must be archived.
The samples are stapled alongside each other onto an A4 card. The delivery date, width,
and in the case of elastic materials, the mechanical extensibility values are noted under
each sample and the batch number is written beside the sample.
In this way, it is possible to trace the continuity of colour, general appearance, feel, width
and extensibility.
2.4.3 Colour Matching Procedure

2.4.3.1 Visual Colour Matching
The following requirements must be fulfilled in order to visually match the whiteness
level or colour quality of colour batches with predefined colour standards:
a) All batches must be dyed or bleached in accordance with the colour standards
predefined by TRIUMPH INTERNATIONAL.
b) The standard colour samples must be stored in a dark location and kept free of dust.
c) The standards are in polyamid without elastane. The surface is in a dull finish, no
direction effect and with a complex structure. More details are described on the label
such as version, recipe etc.
d) All suppliers/finishing plants must set up their own dark room, the walls of which
must be a mid-grey colour ref Grey N7.
e) This dark room must have the same colour matching booth as used by TRIUMPH
INTERNATIONAL for materials testing. The lamp equipment used must also be
identical to that used by Triumph.
Note 1. The product used by Triumph is a Veri Vide industrial model with the
following fluorescent lamp equipment:
Daylight
TL 84/P15
UVB (ultraviolet ray lamp)
The fluorescent lamp and TL84/P15 tubes marked accordingly can be obtained from FA.
LESLIE HUBBLE LIMITED and are available in 600 mm and 1,500 mm lengths
(Appendix 4).The main light sources (D65 / TL84) must be changed after 2000h or latest
one year.
10
2.4.3.2 Colour Matching Using Instruments

The results of different spectrophotometric systems can be correlated only if the
measuring geometry and lighting are identical. When performing spectrophotometric
tests on white samples, it must be possible to calibrate the UV proportion of the lighting
and the triplet effect must be eliminated to a great extent.
Due to the use of devices with different levels of sophistication when measuring
whiteness levels the communication between partners is often very difficult and this
results in the need for information meetings before measurements are performed.
To ensure the reliability of measurement results, all parties must adhere to a standard
measuring procedure as described in the Instructions for Performing
Spectrophotometric Tests in Appendix 2. Despite the use of an automatic, softwarebased pass/fail process, the spectrophotometric results of a sample do not necessarily
reflect the visual impression.
In cases where there is doubt, it is possible to use colour scale cards (Appendix 3) to
verify a result. Colour scale cards are A4 cards onto which A5 cuttings (double-layer)
from each batch in the same notation are stapled in a row of overlapping samples in the
order in which they were supplied. When the test sample is laid alongside this row of
samples, the colourist can determine whether the colour of the test sample matches that
of the standard colour sample.
2.4.3.3 Digital Colour Communication Procedure
Refer to the latest edition of Triumphs separate colour manual.
11
2.4.4 Test Criteria

The following test criteria should be selected such that the material specification, process
capability and serviceability of the materials are ensured.
2.4.4.1 Material specification Raw Material Specification (Technical Specification)
The specifications agreed for the production and acceptance of a new quality with regard
to the machine type, the yarn used, the manufacturing procedure, the technical values,
the colours, the colour consistency and the look of material must be observed in the same
way as the specifications in the Raw Material Specification.
2.4.4.2 Process capability
These criteria refer to the subsequent processing of the materials to ensure the capability
of the processes is high so that the final product produced conforms to specifications.
Working width: The working width of the fabric must be observed to ensure that
predefined patterns can be used for cutting.
Stability: The material must remain constant in their form and size. It is quite common
for the fabric shapes to shrink (dry shrinkage) after cutting or while being handled at the
sewing machines. This results in ill-fitting garments and irregular stitching.
Flatness: The fabric must lie flat on the cutting table with even selvedges, and without
any longitudinal or transverse curling. Ripples in the fabric must also be avoided.
Distortion-free fabric: The fabric must be free of any longitudinal, transverse, or
diagonal distortion. Narrow elastic and lace must not be curved or dog-legged.
Flaw limit/identification: The maximal number of permitted flaws must not be exceeded.
Flaws should be marked without damaging the fabric.
Repeat: Repeat size must be conserved, e. g. in lace, embroidery, and fabric prints.
Ease of cutting: The condition of the fabric must be such that it can be cut without any
problems, i.e. no adhesion at the edges of the fabric shapes, no pulling of Elastane fibres
out of double-rib fabrics when cutting, and no pulling of knitted fabrics.
Wrinkling: Wrinkling should be avoided in circular-knitted materials.
Mouldability: Mould qualities should demonstrate colour-fast, wrinkle-free, bubble-free
and must be odourless.
Ease of stitching: Materials should be handled in such a way that loop damage is
avoided in the garment.
12
2.4.4.3 Serviceability
These criteria refer in particular to the serviceability of a product. Customer satisfaction
with warranted or expected qualities is an important goal which cannot be emphasized
enough.
Shrinking due to washing: The material must comply with quality-specific.
Adhesive strength: The texture and finishing of double-rib fabrics must exhibit good
adhesive strength values (slippage effect) so that the elastane fibres retain their adhesion
even when exposed to fabric softeners or detergents with softening agents.
Resistance to tumble drying/pilling: The material should be resistant to tumble drying
and free of pilling.
Resistance to breakage/tearing: The material should be resistant to breakage and tearing,
even after frequent use (wash cycles).
Physiological finishing generally recognized as being safe: This refers to the exclusive
use of dyes, equipment, and finishing procedures that are generally recognized as being
safe for humans and are ecologically sound.
Fastness: The material should be fast to NOx, washing, light, colour dropout,
perspiration, chlorine, water, and friction.
Neutral odour: The material should be free of any unpleasant odours.
13
2.4.5 Test Methods

2.4.5.1 Overview of test methods
Dependent on the material type and properties to be tested Triumph International has established the following tests and methods with their
respective Triumph Testing Code.
Assessments and Measurements
Material
type
All fabrics
including
printed and
embroidered
fabric and
lace
Narrow
Elastics
Test
Compliance with Approved Samples and General
Appearance of Fabric
Feel and Stability of the Fabric
Neutral Odour
Mouldability of Fabrics
Method
Triumph testing
code
Performance Standard
Triumph method
T_F_A_T1
Same as the master sample (3mm for lace ends).
Triumph method
Same as the master sample.

No detectable odour present.
Global Manual
Repeat Size
Fabric Width
Thickness
Fabric Weight
Fabric Density
Triumph method
Triumph method
T_F_A_T2
T_F_A_T3
T_F_A_T4
T_F_M_T1
T_F_M_T2
T_F_M_T3
T_F_M_T4
T_F_M_T5
Seam Slippage
ISO 13936-2
T_F_M_T6
Fabric Curling
Appearance and Manufacturing Quality of Narrow
Elastics
Feel and Stability of Narrow Elastics
Triumph method
T_F_M_T7
The tolerance is 5%.

Raw Material Specification
6mm seam opening at:
60N for fabrics 220g/m2
120N for fabrics > 220g/m2
The degree of curling should not be more than 90o
Triumph method
T_Ac1_A_T1
Triumph method
Bowing Test for Narrow Elastics

Weight of Narrow Elastics
Dimensions of Narrow Elastics
Triumph method
T_Ac1_A_T2
T_Ac1_M_T1
T_Ac1_M_T2
T_Ac1_M_T3
Triumph method
Triumph method
Triumph method
Triumph method
Triumph method
Triumph method
Triumph method
Up to 4%
14
Assessments and Measurements (Continued)

Material
type
PU/
Fibrefill
Cups
Test
Hook and
Eye Tapes
Method
Triumph testing
code
Form and Shape of PU/Fibrefill Cups
Triumph method
T_Ac2_A_T1
Thickness of PU/Fibrefill Cups
Triumph method
T_Ac2_M_T1
1mm deviation from the plastic cup

No tolerance for the shoulder strap extension
0.5mm (for < 10mm)
1.0mm (for 10mm)
Appearance and Manufacturing Quality of Hook

and Eye Tapes
Triumph method
T_Ac3_A_T1
Dimensions of Hook and Eye Tapes
Triumph method
T_Ac3_M_T1
Form and Appearance of Bra Wires
Triumph method
T_Ac4_A_T1
Dimensions of Bra Wires

Appearance and Manufacturing Quality of Plastic
Bones
Dimensions of Plastic Bones
Appearance and Manufacturing Quality of
Buckles, Slides and Rings
Dimensions of Buckle, Slide and Rings
Triumph method
T_Ac4_M_T1

The opening of the hook and eye must be 7 1 mm
The curvature of the bra wire (tip to tip) must be
wire width.
The tolerance for bra wire length is -3mm, +1mm
Triumph method
T_Ac5_A_T1
Triumph method
T_Ac5_M_T1
Triumph method
T_Ac6_A_T1
Triumph method
Triumph method
Appearance and Performance of Zippers

Dimensions of Zippers
Triumph method
Triumph method
T_Ac6_M_T1
T_Ac7_M_T1
T_Ac8_A_T1
T_Ac8_M_T1
Dimensions of Spirals
Appearance of Sewing Threads
Triumph method
T_Ac9_A_T1
Triumph method
T_Ac10_A_T1
Triumph method
T_Ac10_M_T1
T_Ac11_A_T1
T_Ac11_M_T1
T_Ac11_M_T2
Bra Wires
Plastic Bones
Buckles,
Slides and
Rings
Zippers
Sewing
Threads
Other
Accessories
(Motifs)
Cut Tape
Form and Size of Motifs and Other Decorative

Items
Weight of Motifs and Other Decorative Items
Stiffness and Softness of Cut Tape
Angle of Cutting
Width of Cut Tape
Triumph method
Triumph method
Triumph method


45o
15
Physical Performance Tests

Property
Test
Method
Triumph testing
code
Bursting strength
EN ISO 13938-2
T_F_PP1_T1
Fabric120 kPa
Lace rigid.........70 kPa
Lace elastic...70 kPa
Burn out70 kPa
Open structure 70 kPa
Narrow materials 100mm width: 120kPa
Bond Strength of Laminated Fabrics
ASTM D 2724
T_F_PP1_T2
10N
Tensile Strength
ISO 13934-1
T_F_PP1_T3
Tear Strength
ISO 13937-1
T_F_PP1_T4
200N
Warp: 9N
Weft: 7N
Tensile Strength of Rings and Sliders

Sewing Thread Strength
Resistance to Unsnapping of Snap
Fasteners (Poppers)
Strength of Bra Wire Casings to
Penetration
Triumph method
ISO 2062
T_Ac6_PP1_T5
T_Ac9_PP1_T6
ASTM D 4846
T_Ac12_PP1_T7
Triumph method
T_F_PP1_T8
Hook and Eye Pull Out Strength
Triumph method
T_Ac3_PP1_T9
Resistance to Breakage
Adhesive Strength of Elastane Fibres
Testing Adhesive Strength Manually
(Slippage Test)
Testing Adhesive Strength of Strap Elastic
Tensile Strength of Welded Shoulder
Straps
Triumph method
Triumph method
T_F_PP1_T10
T_F_PP1_T11
1 hook and eye: 90N (20lbs)

2-3 hooks and eyes: 160N (35lbs)
25 g, obvious or weak stop and go effect
Triumph method
T_F_PP1_T12
No thread must slip out of the seam unit.
Triumph method
T_Ac1_PP1_T13
Triumph method
T_Ac1_PP1_T14

There should be no breakage of the welded shoulder
straps at the recommended air pressure.
Strength
(modified)
100N
Min 9N (2lbs)
Max 27N (6lbs)
250N
16
Physical Performance Tests (Continued)

Property
Stretch and
recovery
properties
Appearance/
surface
properties
Durability
and stability
Test
Method
Triumph testing
code
Elongation test
Triumph method
T_F_PP2_T1
10% extensibility (or as specified on the Raw

Material Specification).
Stretch Properties of Knitted Fabrics

Having Low Power
Stretch Properties of Fabrics Woven from
Stretch Yarns
ASTM D 2594
T_F_PP2_T2
Recovery > 85%
ASTM D 3107
T_F_PP2_T3
Recovery > 85%
Manual Extensibility
Triumph method
T_F_PP2_T4
Resistance to Pilling
ISO 12945-2
T_F_PP3_T1
10% as specified on the Raw Material

Specification.
Woven fabrics: grade 4 at 2000 cycles
Knitted fabrics (filament yarn): grade 3-4 at 2000
cycles
Knitted fabrics (spun yarn including natural/synthetic
fibres and fibre blends): grade 3-4 at 200 cycles
Resistance to Snagging
ASTM D 3939
T_F_PP3_T2
Determination of Spirality (Skew)
ISO 16322
T_F_PP3_T3
Appearance after Washing
Triumph method
T_F/Ac_PP3_T4
Dimensional Stability
ISO 5077 (modified)
T_F/Ac_PP4_T1
Washing Durability
Triumph method
T_F/Ac_PP4_T2
The minimum requirement is grade 3-4.

Not more than 3% as manufactured and 5% after
wash.
No major or noticeable change in appearance when
compared with the original sample.
Global Manual + Raw Material Specification
There must be none of the following:
- Deterioration in handle or appearance
(for labels or prints the wording must still be legible)
- Breakage
- Cracking
- Peeling
- Delamination
- Colour change/damage of metal finishes
- Distortion
For metal decorative items only grade 1 (slight peeling off of the
metal coating) is accepted.
For Rhinestone decorative items no stones should come off.
17
Colour Fastness Tests

Property
Test
Colour
fastness
Colour Fastness to Light
EN ISO 105-B02
T_F/Ac_CF_T1
Colour Fastness to Rubbing
EN ISO 105-X12
T_F/Ac_CF_T2
Dry: grade 4 staining

Wet: grade 3 staining
Colour Fastness to Rubbing of Paper

Tags
EN ISO 105-X12
T_Ac13_CF_T3
Staining on the rubbing cloth: grade 4 min.

Colour change of the paper tag: grade 4 min.
Colour Fastness to Washing
EN ISO 105-C06
T_F/Ac_CF_T4
Colour change: grade 4

Staining: grade 4
Colour Fastness to Perspiration
EN ISO 105-E04
T_F/Ac_CF_T5

Staining: grade 4
Colour Fastness to Water
EN ISO 105-E01
T_F/Ac_CF_T6

Staining: grade 4
Colour Fastness to Sea Water

(Swimwear)
Colour Fastness to Chlorinated Water
(Swimwear)
Colour Change after Multiple Washing
EN ISO 105-E02
T_F/Ac_CF_T7

Staining: grade 4
EN ISO 105-E03
T_F/Ac_CF_T8
EN ISO 105-C06
EN ISO 105-X18
T_F/Ac_CF_T9
T_F/Ac_CF_T10
Colour change: grade 3-4
Phenolic yellowing
Colour Fastness to Nitrogen Oxides/Burnt
Gas Fumes
Colour Fastness: Dye Transfer in Storage;
Paper Tags
Method
(modified)
ISO 105-G01 or
ISO 105-G02
(AATCC 23).
AATCC 163, Option
1 (modified)
Triumph testing
code
Grade 4
Staining: grade 4
T_F/Ac_CF_T11
Colour change: grade 3-4 (3 cycles) excluding

bare PU cups
T_Ac13_CF_T12
Staining: grade 4-5
18
Chemical Tests
Property
Test
Chemical
Reactions
Corrosion Resistance
Method
Triumph method
Triumph testing
code
T_Ac_Ch1_T1
No corrosion
European
+ or 3% for blends only
Directives
T_F/Ac_Ch2_T1 Where fibre content is 100%, no tolerance is
Composition Fibre Content
96/73/EC and
allowed.
73/44/EEC.
*Refer to the current version of the Oeko Tex Standard and the REACH Regulation and Triumph International Vendor Information
(TIVI) for further details of chemical tests.
2.4.5.2 Catalogue of test methods

The following sections describe the purpose, apparatus, test specimen, method, reporting parameters and performance standard of the tests
outlined in Section 2.3.5.1.
The sections are arranged as follows:
Section 1: Assessments and Measurements
Section 2: Physical Performance Tests
Section 3: Colour Fastness Tests
Section 4: Chemical Tests
19
Section 1
20

(Fabric)
Revised: January 2009
T_F_A_T1
Compliance with Approved Samples and General Appearance of Fabric

Purpose
To verify that the appearance of the material is true to the original

and to evaluate the general appearance.
Test specimen
The minimum requirement for the specimen size is 210 x 150 mm.
Method
Compare the appearance of the test specimen with the master sample
under good lighting and on a flat clear surface.
Pay attention to the construction of the fabric and check for defects
such as cockling, stripiness, streakiness, skewness, spots or marks
etc. that will adversely affect the appearance of the fabric.
Report
Provide comments on the appearance of the fabric compared to the

master sample.
Performance
standard
The fabric appearance must be the same as the master sample.

For lace: 3mm for lace ends
T_F_A_T2
Feel and Stability of the Fabric

Purpose
To verify that the handle of the material is true to the original and to
evaluate the general handle.
Test specimen
Method
Based on the handle of the master sample, manually assess the drape
of the fabric or the required material stability.
Pay attention to the smoothness of the fabric surface, the fabric
stability, the elasticity of volume, the feel of lace and other fabrics
and the softness of decorative picots.
Report
Provide comments on the handle of the fabric compared to the master

sample.
Performance
standard
The fabric hand feel must be the same as the master sample.
21

(Fabric)
T_F_A_T3
Neutral Odour
Purpose
To determine if there are any odours present on the fabric as dyes,

softeners, silling finishes, packaging transport and storage may leave
unpleasant odours on textiles which will result in complaints.
Test specimen
Method
Warm the test specimen in the hand to intensify any odours that are
present enabling them to be detected.
Report
Provide comments on the odour of the fabric.
Performance
standard
There must not be any odours present on the fabric.
T_F_A_T4
Mouldability of Fabrics
Purpose
To determine the mouldability of new materials, new colours and

difficult materials according to the predefinition by Triumph.
Apparatus
Moulding tools and appliances used in production.
Test specimen
1 metre x full width
Method
The only way of determining whether a textile can be moulded

without any negative repercussions for the product itself or for
Triumph International is to attempt to mould the fabric using the
same specific moulding tools and appliances as used later on during
production.
The size of the mould sample, the number of fabric layers, the
temperature of the moulding tools and the contact time are all of
equal importance.
Test must therefore be carried out on production machines.
Report
Comment on the mouldability of the material.
Performance
standard
A mould sample is approved provided the following criteria are met:

a) The desired form and mould depth have been achieved.
b) There are no wrinkles or bubbles in the cup.
c) The test specimen was not drawn into the mould form to ensure
that the predefined sample size was sufficient for the cup size.
d) No noxious fumes or unpleasant odours were produced.
e) There is no noticeable reduction in stability.
f) The colour did not change, or any changes in colour are within
defined visual or colourimetric tolerance levels.
22

(Fabric)
T_F_M_T1
Repeat Size
Purpose
To measure and verify that the repeat sizes of prints, lace,

embroidery and other patterned or zoned material conform to
specifications.
Apparatus
Ruler
Test specimen
Sample containing at least three repeats.
Method
1. Lay the sample flat on the table.

2. Identify the pattern repeat.
3. Measure the length and width of the repeat.
4. Also lay the sample flat on the top of the master sample to check
for any distortion.
Report
Report the length and width of the repeat and if there was any
distortion of the sample compared to the master sample.
Performance
standard
T_F_M_T2
Fabric Width
Purpose
To measure and verify that the fabric width conforms to

specifications.
Apparatus
Ruler or measuring tape.
Test specimen
Test as received.
Method
All Fabrics:
1. Lay the sample flat on a table evenly.
2. Measure the usable width of the sample (within the stenter marks,
exclude the two selvedges or the sized edges in the case of cotton
fabrics)
Note 1. Bordered embroidery line fabric, knitted circular bodice
fabric and non-elastic narrow laces (such as Volant and
Galloon lace) as well as ribbons must be measured down to
the last millimetre taking into account the tolerance levels
indicated in the Raw Material Specification or as instructed
by Triumph. It must be determined whether or not the
items are to be measured with or without decorative picots
or whether both measurements are required. This has to be
stated in the Raw Material Specification.
23

(Fabric)
T_F_M_T2
Fabric Width (Continued)
Crocheted Lace
The width of crocheted lace which is scalloped at both sides can only
be measured precisely using the following method:
1. Lay the lace on a straight edge card so that the tip of the highest
scallop lies exactly on the edge of the card as shown in Figure 1.
2. Using a ruler measure the width of the lace from the edge of the
card to the lip of the highest scallop on the other side.
Figure 1 Width Measurement of Crocheted Lace
24

(Fabric)
T_F_M_T2
Fabric Width (Continued)
Embroidery Band
For embroidery bands such as the one in Figure 2, measure the
useable width from the highest point of the pattern side to the
innermost of the ground fabric side.
Figure 2 Width Measurement of an Embroidery Band

Report
Report the fabric width (in mm).
Performance
standard
As specified in the Raw Material Specification.

The tolerance for narrow laces is 5%.
25

(Fabric)
T_F_M_T3
Thickness
Purpose
To measure the fabric thickness.
Apparatus
Thickness gauge
Test specimen
Test as received.
For fabric and spacer fabrics:
Randomly cut specimens from three different locations. Three
different locations include the central part of the sample and the edge
parts 300mm from the edge. Lay the specimens flat and relax for
minimum of four hours.
Method
1. Handle the specimens carefully to avoid altering the natural state

of the material.
2. Place the specimen face side up, or otherwise specified on the
thickness gauge. Gradually lower the presser foot into contact with
the specimen, taking 5 to 6 seconds to apply full pressure.
3. Read and record the thickness value.
Report
Report the mean thickness (in mm).
Performance
standard
26

(Fabric)
T_F_M_T4
Fabric Weight
Purpose
To measure and verify that the fabric weight conforms to

specifications.
Apparatus
- Die cutter
- Balance
Test specimen
Fabric and all over lace:

Randomly cut specimens from three different locations with the die
cutter. Three different locations include the central part of the sample
and the edge parts 300mm from the edge.
For embroidery and narrow fabrics:
Prepare a specimen with a length of 1m.
Method

Weigh the specimens in grams on a balance and calculate the mass
per unit area in g/m2.
Weigh the specimens in grams on a balance.
Report

Report the mass per unit area in g/m2.
Report the mass per unit length in g/m.
Performance
standard
The weight must be within the tolerance of 5%.
27

(Fabric)
T_F_M_T5
Fabric Density
Purpose
To determine the fabric density.
Apparatus
Pick glass
Test specimen
Test as received.
Method
The warp ends and picks per 1 cm of woven fabric, and the courses
and wales per 10 cm of knitted fabric are determined by means of a
pick glass and a counting needle. Since the accuracy is an important
factor when measuring the density of knitted fabrics a pick glass with
lens coverage of 2.5 cm or 1 " are preferable to 1 cm glasses.
When assessing the density of twill- and atlas-woven fabrics, and of
most elastic double-rib fabrics, it is not possible to count threads or
stitches. Instead, the number of threads or stitches per pattern repeat
is determined, ideally with a stereomicroscope. When counting
repeats using the magnifying lens, it is necessary to include not only
full repeats but also sections of the repeat last counted, so that the
thread or stitch count is as accurate as possible when extrapolating to
10 cm lengths. For this reason, half wales and half rows must also be
included if they can be counted.
Report
Report the number of ends and picks per 10cm or the number of
courses and wales per 10cm.
Performance
standard
T_F_M_T6
Seam Slippage
Purpose
To determine the resistance offered by the thread systems of woven

fabric to slippage at a sewn seam.
Apparatus
CRE tensile testing machine
Test specimen
As specified in ISO 13936-2.
Method
Perform the test in accordance with ISO 13936-2.
Report
Report the mean warp seam opening and the mean weft seam
opening (in millimetres).
Performance
standard
6mm seam opening at:

60N for fabrics 220g/m2
120N for fabrics > 220g/m2
28

(Fabric)
T_F_M_T7
Fabric Curling
Purpose
To evaluate the degree of fabric curling
Apparatus
Protractor
Test
specimen
Method
A square cutting of fabric measuring 150 x 150 mm.

1. Allow the test specimen to relax on a flat table in standard
atmosphere conditions for four hours.
2. Measure the degree of curling using a protractor at the edge of the
test specimen as shown below for all four corners.
Report
Report if the degree of curling is greater or less than 90o.
Performance
standard
The degree of curling should not be more than 90o.
29

(Accessories and Components)
T_Ac1_A_T1
Appearance and Manufacturing Quality of Narrow Elastics
Purpose
To verify that the appearance of the material is true to the original

and to check for any defects.
Test specimen
Test as received.
Method
Perform the following checks on the specimen:

-
Compare the appearance of the specimen with the original.

Check for any twisting.
Check if there are any joins per unit length
Examine for any sharp edges or tears on metal or plastic parts.
Report
Provide comments on the appearance of the test specimen compared

to the master sample.
Performance
standard
The appearance must be the same as the master sample.

There must not be any twisting.
No more than 2 joins per 100m are accepted
Metal and plastic parts must not have any sharp edges or tears.
T_Ac1_A_T2
Feel and Stability of Narrow Elastics

Purpose
To verify that the handle and stability of the material is true to the
original and to evaluate the general handle.
Test specimen
Test as received.
Method
Manually assess the transverse stability of the elastic, in particular

the stretch of supporting elastics and wide waistbands.
Report
Provide comments on the handle and stability of the test specimen

compared to the master sample.
Performance
standard
The handle and stability must be the same as the master sample
30

T_Ac1_M_T1
Bowing Test for Narrow Elastics
Purpose
To determine if the elastic is bowed which is defined as the deviation of

an individual pick from a straight line joining its two ends.
Apparatus
Ruler
Test
specimen
Five specimens
For continuous length samples prepare specimens 500mm in length.
For pre-cut elastics test as received.
Place a mark at the centre of the specimens
Method
1. Lay the specimens on a flat surface.

2. Place a rigid straight edge across the specimen, touching both ends.
3. If any bowing (curving) of the specimen is observed, measure
distance a and b as shown in the below figure. Where a is the
distance (in mm) from the centre point to the rigid straight edge and
b is the distance (in mm) between the two ends of the specimen.
4. Calculate the bowing percentage as follows:
a
Bowing % = 100 *
b
Report
Report the amount of bowing (as a percentage) for each specimen and
the mean.
Performance
standard
Bowing is not normally expected but up to 4% bowing is accepted.
31

T_Ac1_M_T2
Weight of Narrow Elastics
Purpose
To measure and verify that the material weight conforms to

specifications.
Apparatus
Balance
Test specimen
Prepare a specimen with a length of 1m.
Method
Weigh the specimens in grams on a balance.
Report
Report the mass per unit length in g/m.
Performance
standard
32

T_Ac1_M_T3
Dimensions of Narrow Elastics
Purpose
To measure and verify that the dimension of the material conform to

specifications.
Apparatus
- Ruler
- Thickness gauge
Test specimen
Test as received.
Method
Measure the total width and body width of the specimen.

Determine the thickness using a thickness gauge at several locations
along the the specimen. This is because pre-existing contact pressure
on the pan may lead to deviations due to the softness of the material
to be tested. When laying down the pan, therefore, the lever must be
manipulated carefully and relatively slowly.
Report
Report the total width, body width and thickness of the specimen (in
mm).
Performance
standard
33

T_Ac2_A_T1
Form and Shape of PU/Fibrefill Cups
Purpose
To verify whether the form and shape of PU or fibrefill cups are true
to the original.
Apparatus
A standard set of transparent plastic cup moulds corresponding to

each material number.
Test specimen
Test as received.
Method
1. Place the test specimen into the plastic cup or shot.

2. Ensure that the test specimen is evenly in contact with the plastic
cup/shot and the bust point of the test specimen matches with the
bust point on the plastic cup.
3. Check the shape and the cut-out of the test specimen by examining
whether it matches and fits exactly in the plastic cup/shot.
4. In addition, check the softness and recovery of the cups by
applying pressure to the bust point of the test specimen and
compare it to the original.
Report
Report if there is any deviation of the test specimen from the plastic
cup/shot and the original.
Performance
standard
Each specimen must be true to the original and each side of the test
specimen must not deviate more than 1mm from the plastic
cup/shot.
There is no tolerance for the shoulder strap extension.
34

T_Ac2_M_T1
Thickness of PU/Fibrefill Cups
Purpose
To measure the thickness of PU or fibrefill cups at the bust point and

cushion part.
Apparatus
- Scissors
- Ruler
Test specimen
Test as received.
Method
1. Cut the specimen to the bust point (which corresponds to the cross
on the plastic cup mould/shot).
2. Measure the thickness of the specimen at the bust point.
3. Cut the specimen at the cushion part and measure the thickness of
the thickest part.
Report
Report the thickness of the specimen at the bust point and cushion
part (in mm).
Performance
standard
The tolerance is:

0.5mm (for < 10mm)
1.0mm (for 10mm)
35

T_Ac3_A_T1
Appearance and Manufacturing Quality of Hook and Eye Tapes

Purpose
To evaluate the appearance of the material and to check for any

defects.
Test specimen
Test as received.
Method

- Check the closure to ensure whether it is not too tight or too loose.
- Check the overlap to verify whether it covers the hook/eye.
- Feel the hook and eye tape to check for any sharp points on the
tape.
- Check the materials used to determine whether it is the correct item
or not.
- Stretch the brushed nylon of the eye tape (if applicable) to
determine whether the brushed nylon comes away from the
interlining. (If the stability of the brushed nylon is poor, the
appearance of the eye tape will be poor after sewing.)
- Check the winding direction according to Figures 1 and 2.
Figure 1
Figure 2
Report
Report if there are any problems relating to the checks specified

above or if there are any other irregularities.
Performance
standard
There must be none of the above problems or irregularities found and

the appearance must be the same as the master sample.
36

T_Ac3_M_T1
Dimensions of Hook and Eye Tapes
Purpose
To measure the dimensions of the material to verify whether they

conform to specifications.
Apparatus
Ruler
Test specimen
Test as received.
Method
1. Lay the specimen on the table evenly.

2. Measure the dimensions according to the specification stated in
the Raw Material Specification.
3. Measure the length of the openings of the hook/eye parts.
Report
Report the dimensions.
Performance
standard

The openings of the hook and eyes must be 7 1 mm
37

T_Ac4_A_T1
Form and Appearance of Bra Wires
Purpose
To verify whether the form and appearance of bra wires are true to
the original.
Apparatus
- Bra wire blue prints/stencils

- Ruler
Test specimen
Test as received.
Method
1. Compare the shape and length of the bra wire to its approved blue
print (Figure 1).
2. Check the colour of the paint dipping of the tips to see whether
they follow the colour mentioned on the blue prints.
3. Check the width and thickness of the paint dipping to see whether
it is too thick or too thin.
Figure 1
Report
Report if there are any deviations from the approved blue print.
Performance
standard
The curvature of the bra wire (tip to tip) must be wire width.
The tolerance for bra wire length is -3mm, +1mm
38

T_Ac4_M_T1
Purpose
To measure the dimensions of the bra wires to verify whether they

Apparatus
Caliper gauge
Test specimen
Test as received.
Method
Measure the width, thickness and raising height (if applicable) of the
specimen.
Report
Report the width, thickness (in mm) and raising height (if
applicable).
Performance
standard
39

T_Ac5_A_T1
Appearance and Manufacturing Quality of Plastic Bones

Purpose

defects.
Test specimen
Test as received.
Method

- Check the colour of the specimen to ensure that it is colourless.
- Compare the hardness of the specimen to previous deliveries or
the master sample.
- Feel the specimen to check for any sharp points.
Report

Performance
standard
T_Ac5_M_T1
Dimensions of Plastic Bones

Purpose

Apparatus
Caliper gauge
Test specimen
Test as received.
Method
Measure the length, width and thickness of the specimen.
Report
Report the length, width and thickness of the specimen (in mm).
Performance
standard
40

T_Ac6_A_T1
Appearance and Manufacturing Quality of Buckles, Slides and Rings

Purpose

defects.
Test specimen
Test as received.
Method

- Check the colour approval of the specimen to ensure it matches
the samples from the previous deliveries or the master sample.
Report

Performance
standard
T_Ac6_M_T1
Dimensions of Buckle, Slide and Rings

Purpose

conform to specifications
Apparatus
Caliper gauge
Test specimen
Test as received.
Method
Report
Performance
standard
41

T_Ac7_M_T1
Purpose

Apparatus
Caliper gauge
Test specimen
Test as received.
Method
Report
Performance
standard
T_Ac8_A_T1
Appearance and Performance of Zippers

Purpose
To evaluate the appearance and function of the material.
Test specimen
Test as received.
Method

- Check the colour of the cotton cloth and the zipper head.
- Check the performance of the specimen by pulling the zipper up
and down several times.
Report

Performance
standard
The appearance and performance must be the same as the master

sample.
42

T_Ac8_M_T1
Purpose

Apparatus
Ruler
Test specimen
Test as received.
Method
1. Measure the length of the zipper the distance between the top
stop and the bottom stop and the distance after the top and after
the bottom stop.
2. Measure half the width of the zipper at the bottom.
Report
Report the length and width of the specimen.
Performance
standard
T_Ac9_A_T1
Appearance of Sewing Threads

Purpose
To verify that the appearance of the material are true to the original
Test specimen
Test as received.
Method

- Check the colour of the thread and suppliers colour code.
- Check the appearance and evenness of the thread compared with
the original.
- Check the hairiness of the thread, the number of protruding hairs
should be minimal.
- Check whether the thread can be unwound smoothly.
Report

Performance
standard
43

T_Ac10_A_T1
Form and Size of Motifs and Other Decorative Items

Purpose
To verify that the form and size of motifs and other decorative items
Test specimen
Test as received.
Method

- Check the design and colour of the specimens.
- Since the size, form, and design of motifs can vary greatly, and it
generally comes down to the length of their lateral side and the
size of their angle, the only option for testing motifs is to use
stencils. The motif is laid on top of the stencil and checked for
compliance.
Report

Performance
standard
The form and size must be the same as the master sample.
T_Ac10_M_T1
Weight of Motifs and Other Decorative Items

Purpose
To measure and verify that the material weight conforms to

specifications.
Apparatus
Balance
Test specimen
Test as received.
Method
1. Prepare three pieces of the sample.

2. Measure the weight of the three pieces.
3. Calculate the average weight.
Report
The average weight (in grams per piece).
Performance
standard
44

T_Ac11_A_T1
Stiffness and Softness of Cut Tape
Purpose
To verify that the handle and stability of the material is true to the
original.
Test specimen
Test as received.
Method
Check the stiffness and softness of the tape. The tape should not be
too soft or curling.
Report
Provide comments on the stiffness and softness of the test specimen

compared to the master sample.
Performance
standard
The handle must be the same as the master sample
T_Ac11_M_T1
Angle of Cutting
Purpose
To measure the angle of cutting of bias cut tape.
Apparatus
Protractor
Test specimen
Bias cut tape.
Method
For bias cut tape check the angle of cutting by a protractor.
Report
Report the angle of the cutting (in degrees).
Performance
standard
The angle must be 45o
T_Ac11_M_T2
Width of Cut Tape

Purpose
To measure and verify that the width of the material conform to

specifications.
Apparatus
Ruler
Test specimen
Method
Report
Performance
standard
Test as received.
Measure the width of the tape.
Report the width of the specimen (in mm).
45
Section 2
46
T_F_PP1_T1
Bursting Strength
Purpose
To determine the bursting strength of textile fabrics.
Apparatus
Bursting strength tester (pneumatic)
Test specimen
As specified in EN ISO 13938-2.
Method
Perform the test in accordance with EN ISO 13938-2.

Take measurements from three areas on the test specimen.
Diaphragm test area: 50cm2 (79.8 mm diameter)
Narrow materials 100mm width: 7.3cm2 (30.5 mm diameter)
Report
Report the mean bursting strength, in kilopascals of the weakest area.

Report the make and model of bursting tester used.
Performance
standard
The bursting strength of material should be above the following

figures.
Fabric 120 kPa
Lace rigid......... 70 kPa
Lace elastic... 70 kPa
Burn out 70 kPa
Open structure70 kPa
Narrow materials 100mm width: 120kPa
T_F_PP1_T2
Bond Strength of Laminated Fabrics

Purpose
To determine the bond strength of laminated fabrics.
Apparatus
Tensile testing machine
Test specimen
As specified in ASTM D 2724 (modified). The specimen width

should be 50mm.
Method
Perform the test in accordance with ASTM D 2724 (modified) using

a test rate of 100mm/min.
Report
Report the bond strength (in newtons).
Performance
standard
10N
47
T_F_PP1_T3
Tensile Strength
Purpose
To determine the maximum force and elongation at maximum force

of textile fabrics using a strip method.
Apparatus
Test specimen
Method
Report
Report the:
The mean maximum force and, if required, of the force at rupture in
newtons.
The mean elongation at maximum force and, if required, of the
elongation at rupture in, in percent.
Performance
standard
200N
T_F_PP1_T4
Tear Strength
Purpose
To determine the tear force of textile fabrics.
Apparatus
Pendulum testing machine
Test specimen
Method
Report
Report the mean tear force across warp and weft (in newtons).
Performance
standard
Warp: 9N
Weft: 7N
48
T_Ac6_PP1_T5
Tensile Strength of Rings and Sliders
Purpose
To assess the tensile strength of rings and sliders.
Apparatus
Tensile testing machine with the following parameters:

- Gauge length: 100mm
- Test rate: 200mm/min
For unattached rings and sliders: 100% cotton twill woven tape in
widths appropriate to the internal width of the ring or slider
Impact resistant safety glasses or goggles (must be worn during
testing)
Test specimen
Test as received.
Method
1. Set up the tensile testing machine to the required parameters.

2. For unattached rings and sliders loop one piece of the
appropriately sized tape through the specimen and clamp both
ends of the tape in the top jaw.
3. Loop the second piece of tape through the specimen and clamp the
two ends in the bottom jaw. Ensure that the specimen is mounted
centrally and vertically in the jaws ensuring that no tension is
applied.
4. Start the test and measure the load required to break the test
specimen.
Repeat the procedure for the remaining two specimens using new
pieces of tape.
Report
Report the average load value or break point.
Performance
standard
The tensile strength should be > 100N
49
T_Ac9_PP1_T6
Purpose
To determine breaking force and elongation at break of sewing

threads taken from packages.
Apparatus
Test specimen
As specified in ISO 2062.
Method
Perform the test in accordance with ISO 2062.
Report
Report the:
The mean breaking force (in centi-Newtons).
The mean elongation at break (as a percentage).
Performance
standard
As specified in the Raw Material Specification
50
T_Ac12_PP1_T7
Resistance to Unsnapping of Snap Fasteners (Poppers)

Purpose
To determine the force required to disengage snap fasteners by a pull

perpendicular to and parallel with the plane of the snap fastener.
Apparatus
Tensile testing machine

Aluminium plate
Test specimen
As specified in ASTM D 4846.
Method
Perform the test in accordance with ASTM D 4846.
Report
Report the load at the point the snap fastener disengages (in
newtons).
Performance
standard
Min 9N (2lbs)
Max 27N (6lbs)
T_F_PP1_T8
Strength of Bra Wire Casings to Penetration

Purpose
To determine the strength of bra wire casing fabrics to penetration.
Apparatus

- Test rate:
- Gauge length:
100mm/min
50mm
(Measure between the bottom of the upper jaw and the
top of the pin penetration apparatus)
Pin penetration attachment (as shown in Figure 1) with the

following dimensions:
Height: 85mm
Width: 75mm
Thickness: 5mm
Length of pin: 8mm
Diameter of pin: 2.5mm (flat tip)
Test specimen
Three specimens of bra wire casing fabric, 300mm in length

- Tubular: slit the inside fabric down the centre without damaging
the outer cover.
- Open width: test the lining tape if it is to be used.
51
T_F_PP1_T8
Strength of Bra Wire Casings to Penetration (Continued)

Method
1. Set up the tensile testing machine to the required parameters and

place the pin penetration attachment in the lower jaw clamp.
2. Thread the specimen through the open slot of the pin penetration
apparatus, over the end of the metal pin. The outer cover should
face out.
3. Take the two loose ends of the test specimen align and clamp into
the top jaw of the tensile testing machine ensuring that it is aligned
centrally and vertically and that no tension is applied.
4. Start the test and measure the load required to penetrate the test
specimen.
Report
Report the load (in newtons) required to penetrate the bra wire
casing.
Performance
standard
250N
Figure 1 Pin Penetration Attachment
52
T_Ac3_PP1_T9
Hook and Eye Pull Out Strength
Purpose
To determine the load required to pull out hook and eyes.
Apparatus

- Gauge length:
- Test rate:
depending on the size of the hook/eye tape

500mm/min
Hook and eye pull out attachment (as shown in Figure 1). For
information on the dimensions of the attachment contact Triumph or
Triumphs Quality Partners.
Test specimen
Hook and eye tapes attached to garments or securely sew the hook
and eye to 100% cotton twill woven tape in widths appropriate to the
width of the hook and eye.
Method
1. Place the hook/eye side in the bottom jaw grip; align the top of the
grip with the bottom of the tape.
2. Place the attachment centrally in the top grip.
3. Position the specimen in the hook/eye part of the attachment.
Extend the specimen to the pull out point.
4. Repeat steps 1-3 above for the eye side.
Report
Report the load (in newtons) at the smallest, middle and largest
settings for multiple hook and eye fasteners.
Performance
standard
The minimum requirements for:

1 hook and eye: 90N (20lbs)
2-3 hooks and eyes: 160N (35lbs)
53
T_Ac3_PP1_T9
Hook and Eye Pull Out Strength (Continued)
Front View
Side View
Figure 1 Hook and Eye Attachment
54
T_F_PP1_T10
Resistance to Breakage
Purpose
Resistance to breakage is an important property for delicate fabrics in

open width, lace and embroidery.
Method
This test is very subjective and the decision as to whether the

material is sufficiently resistant or too weak is based entirely on
experience and comparison.
There are two types of manual test:
a) Tear Test
Both sides of the test sample are grasped between the thumb and
the index finger and an attempt is made to tear the fabric without
pulling it apart.
b) Thumb Test
The test sample is grasped as described in (a) and an attempt is
made to penetrate the fabric with the thumb.
T_F_PP1_T11
Adhesive Strength of Elastane Fibres

Purpose
In many types of elastane elastic double-rib fabrics, the elastane

fibres are simply worked into the fabric as vertical fibres without any
interlinking or reinforcement.
These fibres can be easily pulled out of the knitted bond when cutting
or punching, particularly with small pieces of fabric. When handling
finished pieces, the elastane fibres are under considerable stress, and
may work themselves out of the stitched seam.
Experience has shown that delicate fabrics in particular, but also
fabrics with additional cotton wrap threads, are particularly
susceptible to this pulling-out effect. It is therefore essential to test
the adhesive strength of elastane fibres.
Apparatus

- Gauge length: 100mm
- Test rate:
100mm/min
55
T_F_PP1_T11
Adhesive Strength of Elastane Fibres (Continued)

Test specimen
The test specimen as illustrated in Figure 1 must be prepared as

follows:
- Length: approximately 240mm along the direction of the elastane
fibres
- Width: 50mm along the grain.
The elastane fibres must be exposed so that they can be pulled out
from the bottom of the fabric towards the top. The sample area
should consist of 10 elastane fibres which are used as follows:
1st, 4th, 7th and 10th fibres are used for adhesive strength tests.
2nd, 3rd, 5th, 6th, 8th and 9th fibres are cut away.
Figure 1 Preparation of the test specimen

Method
1. Clamp the test specimen in the jaws of the tensile testing machine
with one elastane fibre secured in the drawing clamp.
2. Pull the elastane fibre out of the knitted bond at a speed of
100mm/min.
3. Repeat the procedure for the remaining three elastane fibres.
Report
Print the results achieved at the end of each set of tests showing the
graph with four curves ending with multiple peaks as shown below.
Analyse the following properties on the curves:
a) The first drop in stress >1g of each elastane fibre
b) The characteristics of the spike curve.
Interpretation of the curves on the graphs:
a) The higher the first spike, the better the adhesive strength.
b) The sharper the curve spikes, the better the adhesive strength
(obvious stop and go effect).
The following figures show the how the resulting graphs are to be
interpreted and characterised.
56
T_F_PP1_T11
Figure 1 High adhesive strength with obvious stop and go effect, ideal
Figure 2 High adhesive strength with weak stop and go effect, still
acceptable
57
T_F_PP1_T11
Figure 3 Low adhesive strength with medium stop and go effect, not
acceptable
Figure 4 Low adhesive strength with no stop and go effect, unacceptable
Performance
standard
The adhesive strength of the elastane fibre must be at least 25 g and

must display an obvious or weak stop and go effect.
58
T_F_PP1_T12
Testing Adhesive Strength Manually (Slippage Test)

Purpose
To test the adhesive strength of fabrics.
Apparatus
Sewing machine
Soap solution
Soap:
Grained laundry soap, green
Manufacturer: Wilhelmtalwerke, Aachen
Available from: Zschimmer & Schwarz
Max-Schwarz-Strasses 4-5
56112 Lahnstein
Soap solution: 40g of grained laundry soap per litre
Test specimen
The test specimen must be prepared as follows:

- Length: 250mm
- Width: 100mm
1. Fold the 250mm specimen in half and cut it into two pieces of
exactly 125mm in length.
2. Sew the two pieces back together in a single needle lock stitch
seam approximately 5mm from the edge of the cut.
Note 1. The seam size must be observed, since it is crucial to the
accuracy of the test results.
Note 2. A stitch length of exactly 7 stitches per cm must also be used
and the thread tension set such that the stitch is drawn into
the middle of the fabric volume and there is no gathering in
the seam.
Note 3. The seam must be stitched using a cotton thread with a
polyester core (Nm 80/2).
Method
1. Steep the test specimen in the soap solution for two minutes.
2. Manually jerk the test specimen to the stretch limit 10 times (as
much as it will go).
It is important to ensure that the test specimen is held across the
full width.
3. Rinse the sample under running water.
Report
If it is observed that the individual fibres have recoiled, it must be

verified whether they were unhooked by the needle, or whether they
are no longer present in the 5mm seam. The latter case indicates
actual fibre recoil.
Performance
standard
59
T_Ac1_PP1_T13
Testing Adhesive Strength of Strap Elastic

Purpose
To test the adhesive strength of strap elastic.
Apparatus
- Sewing machine
- Washing machine
- Fatigue testing device
(free clamping length 100mm, lifting height 60mm)
Soap solution
Soap:
Grained laundry soap, green
Manufacturer: Wilhelmtalwerke, Aachen
Available from: Zschimmer & Schwarz
Max-Schwarz-Strasses 4-5
56112 Lahnstein
Soap solution: 40g of grained laundry soap per litre
Test specimen
The test specimen must be prepared as follows:

- Length: 250mm
1. Fold the 250mm specimen in half and cut it into two pieces of
exactly 125mm in length.
2. Sew the two pieces back together in a zig zag seam approximately
10mm overlap of the strap ends.
Note 1. A stitch length of exactly 4 stitches per cm and an overstitch
width of 3mm must also be observed. The thread tension
must be set such that the stitch is drawn into the middle of
the overlapping straps and the strap is not gathered in the
seam.
Note 2. The seam must be stitched using a cotton thread with a
polyester core (Nm 80/2).
Method
Method 1 Soap Test

1. Steep the test specimen in the soap solution for two minutes.
2. Manually jerk the test specimen to the stretch limit 10 times (as
much as it will go).
It is important to ensure that the test specimen is held across the
full width.
3. Rinse the sample under running water.
60
T_Ac1_PP1_T13
Testing Adhesive Strength of Strap Elastic (Continued)

Method 2 Fatigue Test
1. Wash the specimen in a washing machine at 60oC with a measure
of heavy duty detergent. Fill the softener compartment of the soap
drawer with an appropriate dose of fabric softener. Do not include
a spin cycle in the wash so that the strap is tested when wet.
2. Move the mobile clamp of the fatigue testing device to the top lift
position, which corresponds to a clamping length of 160mm.
3. After washing clamp the wet test specimen in the fatigue testing
device so that the seam is located in the middle between the two
clamps.
4. Stretch the specimen to the maximum manual extensibility limit.
5. Subject the specimen to 30,000 extension cycles.
Report
If it is observed that the individual fibres have recoiled, it must be

verified whether they were unhooked by the needle, or whether they
are no longer present in the 5mm seam. The latter case indicates
actual fibre recoil.
Performance
standard
61
T_Ac1_PP1_T14
Tensile Strength of Welded Shoulder Straps

Purpose
To assess the tensile strength of welded shoulder straps.
Apparatus
Pneumatic testing device (as shown in Figure 1).

- Air pressure: Standard 6.5 bar
- Electric power: 230V before transformer
Figure 1 Pneumatic Testing Device
Test
specimen
Method
Test as received
1. Adjust the air pressure according to the width of the shoulder strap. (The
recommended values are shown in Table 1.)
2. Hang the slide onto the Slide Adaptor and lay flat the shoulder strap
between the Clamping Cylinder and press down the Clamping Valve
3. With the other hand push down the Stretching Valve while the
Clamping Valve is still pressed down.
4. Stretch the strap four times repeatedly.
Report if the welded shoulder strap broke during testing or not.

Report
Performance There should be no breakage of the welded shoulder straps at the
recommended air pressure.
standard
62
T_F_PP2_T1
Elongation Test
Purpose
To assess the extensibility of textile materials.
Definitions
Extensibility: extension at a specified force

Modulus: force at specified values of extension
Apparatus

- Gauge length:
- Preload:
- Test rate:
- Extensometer (strain):
100mm
1% of the constant force
500mm/min
gauge length correction
- Extension cycles: Elastane elastic fabrics:

2 extension cycles
Shoulder straps and tapes: 2 extension cycles
Non elastic fabrics:
1 extension cycle
(excluding wovens)
- Load size:
Elastane elastic fabrics: 20-70N*
Elastic shoulder straps: 36N
Elastic bindings:
15N
Elastic trimmings:
25N
Elastic waistband:
50N
Lace:
30N
*The loads for elastane elastic constructions are related to the
elastane titter and depend on the main construction features of the
fabric. The load sizes for these fabrics are listed below.
Elastane fabrics in which the elastane is interlinked:
<30 dtex:
20N
30-100 dtex: 30N
101-200 dtex: 40N
Elastane fabrics in which the elastane is not interlinked:
<100 dtex:
20N
100-210 dtex: 30N
211-250 dtex: 40N
251-400 dtex: 50N
>400 dtex:
60N
In the case of weftloc materials, the loads must be increased by 10N.
In the case of materials with two elastane warps, both elastane titers
must be added and the loaded determined from the sum.
For all non-elastic constructions
40 N
63
T_F_PP2_T1
Elongation Test (Continued)
Test specimen
Fabrics
Specimen size: 100 x 170 mm (for lace take the specimen at the edge
of the lace excluding the scalloped edge)
Materials with widths less than 100mm
Specimen length: 170 mm
Method
1. Set up the tensile testing machine to the required parameters.

2. With the minimum amount of handling, clamp a test specimen in
the jaws so that it is mounted centrally and at right angles to the
jaw.
3. Cycle to the required number of extension cycles to the required
load size.
Report
For each direction (if applicable) report the:

- Extension under the required load at the second extension
cycle (or first extension cycle for non elastic fabrics).
- The load at 40%, 60%, 80% 100% extension (Modulus).
Performance
standard
10% extensibility as specified on the Raw Material Specification

(or as specified in the Raw Material Specification).
64
T_F_PP2_T2
Stretch Properties of Knitted Fabrics Having Low Power

Purpose
To measure the fabric stretch and fabric growth of knitted fabric intended
for applications requiring low power stretch properties.
Apparatus
Test
specimen
Method
Report
Report the:
Hanger assembly and frame

Light weight rule
Tensiometer or weights
Turnbuckle
Indelible marker
Timer
Average growth after 60 seconds recovery.

Average growth after 2 hour recovery.
Average fabric stretch.
Performance Recovery > 85%

standard
65
T_F_PP2_T3
Stretch Properties of Fabrics Woven from Stretch Yarns

Purpose
To determine the amount of fabric stretch, fabric growth and fabric recovery
of fabric woven in whole or in part from stretch yarns after a specified
tension and extension.
Apparatus
- Stretch testing instrument

- Tensioning weights
- Indelible marker
- Timer
Test
specimen
Method
Report
Report the:
Average fabric stretch after tensioning for 10 seconds and 30 minutes.

Average growth after tension and after relaxation of the test specimen for 10
seconds (immediate), 30 seconds, 30 minutes, 1 hour and 2 hours.
Average growth after stretch and after relaxation of the test specimen 30
seconds, 30 minutes, 1 hour and 2 hours.
Average fabric recovery after applied stretch and/or extension calculated for
each time interval required.
Performance Recovery > 85%
standard
66
T_F_PP2_T4
Manual Extensibility
Purpose
Manual extensibility is one of the most difficult, subjective test

methods, requiring a considerable amount of practice and experience.
Despite its subjective nature, it provides a quick option for testing
each roll of a particular batch but it cannot replace the accuracy of
the mechanical method. Experience has shown that extensibility
varies greatly from one roll to the next, depending on the design of
the elastic material. This applies in particular to straps and even more
to elastic lace trimming.
Apparatus
Ruler
Test specimen
Strap elastic and lace trimming

Mark off a 100mm section at the centre of a 180mm full width
sample. If the lace trimming is more than 100mm in width, the test
specimen size is 100 x 200mm.
Elastic fabrics in open width
The test specimen size is 100 x 200mm (longitudinal and transverse)
Method
Strap elastic and lace trimming

1. To assess the extensibility hold the test specimen between the
thumb and the index finger at both ends outside the marked
section and stretch it as far as it will go.
In the case of wide waistbands and lace trimmings, the test
specimen is gripped with the thumb or the ball of the thumb and
four fingers.
2. Extend the test specimen at a reasonable rate to the stretch limit,
which must not be exceeded by further pulling.
3. The stretch limit reached in this way must be maintained. Place the
stretch test specimen alongside a ruler and measure the
extensibility on the basis of the marked section. Each 10mm over
the original 100mm corresponds to an extension of 10%.
Example:
Stretch test specimen =185mm = 85% extension
Important:
The ruler itself must not be used to stretch the test specimen. The
specimen should be held above the ruler while being extended.
When assessing test specimens in open width, make sure that these
are stretched evenly i.e. both selvedges must be equally extended.
67
T_F_PP2_T4
Manual Extensibility (Continued)
Elastic fabrics in open width

Determine the extensibility and stretch limit of the specimens in the
same way as with wide waistbands and lace trimming, making sure
that the sample is held along its full width and stretched evenly.
Report
Report the extensibility (as a percentage).
Performance
standard
The tolerance levels to be determined must be specified in percent.

Example:
Technical Specification
80%
150%
Tolerance of 10%
72-88%
135-165%
68
T_F_PP3_T1
Resistance to Pilling
Purpose
To determine the resistance to pilling and surface change of textile

fabrics using a modified Martindale method.
Apparatus
- Martindale abrasion testing machine

- Viewing cabinet
Test specimen
Method
Report
The final grade assessed and whether it is related to fuzzing or pilling

or both.
Performance
standard

Woven fabrics: grade 4 at 2000 cycles
Knitted fabrics (filament yarn): grade 3-4 at 2000 cycles
Knitted fabrics (spun yarn including natural/synthetic fibres and
fibre blends): grade 3-4 at 200 cycles
T_F_PP3_T2
Resistance to Snagging
Purpose
To determine the resistance of a fabric to the pulling or plucking of

yarns or filaments from a fabric surface.
Apparatus
- ICI Mace Snag Tester

- Visual rating standards
- Viewing cabinet
Test specimen
Method
Report
The overall average rating.
Performance
standard
The minimum requirement is grade 3-4.
69
T_F_PP3_T3
Determination of Spirality (Skew)

Purpose
To measure the spirality or skew of woven and knitted materials as

manufactured and after washing.
Apparatus
- Automatic washing machine

- Automatic drying machine
- Calibrated ruler
- Conditioning rack
Test specimen
Prepare two specimens for marking from the centre part and from
the edge of a fabric sample. The measuring point of the specimen
from the edge of the fabric sample should be 300mm from the
edge.
Cut 380mm x 380mm single layer fabric specimens aligned with
the selvedge. For materials less than 400mm in width, full width
specimens may be used and the measurements made by agreement
between the parties concerned.
Mark two pairs of 250 bench mark sets parallel to the length, and
two pairs of 250mm benchmark sets perpendicular to the width to
make a square.
Draw a line through each of the four sets of adjacent bench marks
to denote the square formed.
Label the corners A, B, C and D in a clockwise direction starting
at the lower left corner (as shown in the below figure)
70
T_F_PP3_T3
Determination of Spirality (Skew) (Continued)

Method
1. Examine the courses/wales (or weft/warp), if they are not

perpendicular to the edges of the specimen use the following
procedure to determine the spirality as manufactured.
a) Trace the course or wale (or both) that are not perpendicular to
the edge of the specimen as shown by lines B,SW and B,SC
in the below figure.
b) If wale spirality occurs measure the length of A,SW and
B,SW.
c) If course spirality occurs measure the length of C,SC and
B,SC.
d) Calculate the percentage spirality as follows:
Wale spirality = 100 (A,SW/B,SW)
Course spirality = 100 (C,SC/B,SC)
2. To determine the spirality after washing perform the test in

accordance with ISO 16322-2, Procedure A Diagonal
marking (alternative assessment option).
Select the washing and drying conditions according to the
following guidelines:
- Fabrics (white colour): EN ISO 6330 Procedure 2A (60oc,
normal wash), tumble dry low.
Report
Performance
standard
- Fabrics (coloured): EN ISO 6330 Procedure 7A (40oc, gentle

wash), tumble dry low.
The percentage wale spirality (skew) - as manufactured
The percentage course spirality (skew) - as manufactured
The mean percentage spirality (skew) - after washing
Not more than 3% as manufactured and 5% after wash.
71
T_F/Ac_PP3_T4
Purpose
To assess the appearance of materials and components after

laundering.
Apparatus

- Dryer
- Accompanying material
Test specimen
Broad width materials

- Take a specimen measuring 400mm x 400mm from the fabric.
- Avoid fabric within 300mm from the selvedges.
Narrow materials (i.e. elastics, wire casings and tapes)
Sample length: Approximately 400mm
Components and accessories
- Components and accessories must be attached to the proposed
fabric in the manner used for production or they may be attached
to an accompanying material.
Method
Perform the test using the washing method in EN ISO 6330 for 1
cycle (or otherwise specified). (The specimens can be assessed
together with the dimensional stability test).
Select the washing and drying conditions according to the following
guidelines:
- White colour textile materials: EN ISO 6330 Procedure 2A
(60oc, normal wash), tumble dry low.
- Coloured textile materials: EN ISO 6330 Procedure 7A (40oc,
gentle wash), tumble dry low.
- PU cups (laminated cups, white colour): EN ISO 6330
Procedure 2A (60oc, normal wash), tumble dry low and flat dry.
- PU cups (laminated cups, coloured and non laminated bare cups):
Procedure 7A (40oc, gentle wash), tumble dry low and flat dry.
Evaluation and
reporting
results
Performance
standard
- Plastic, metal and rhinestone decorative items: machine wash with

the hand wash programme (a laundry bag may be used if
necessary), flat dry.
Compare to original sample to check for any change in appearance,
distortion, wrinkle and breakage
No major or noticeable change in appearance when compared with

the original sample.
72
T_F/Ac_PP4_T1
Purpose
To determine the dimensional changes of materials when subjected to

an appropriate combination of specified washing and drying
procedures.
Apparatus

- Dryer
- Ruler
- Indelible marker
- Marking stencils
The marking stencil should be made of sheet steel or Perspex no
less than 5mm in thickness.
The marking stencil should measure 400mm x 400mm with rounded
corners and a handle in the middle.
It should consist of 12 marking slits, six of which run in parallel
horizontal lines 250mm apart and the other six in parallel vertical
lines 250mm apart as shown in the diagram below.
The slit width should measure 40 x y mm where y is the width of the
marker.
Figure 1 Marking stencil to test for dimensional stability of

fabrics
73
T_F/Ac_PP4_T1
Dimensional Stability (Continued)
Test specimen

- Place the marking stencil along the grain.
- Using the indelible marker mark three longitudinal and three
transverse sections measuring 250mm in length on the specimen.
Sample length: Approximately 400mm
Markings:
Only one section 250mm
Elastics have to be overlocked at both ends.
Method
Perform the test in accordance with ISO 5077 (modified) for 1 cycle
(or otherwise specified) using the washing method in EN ISO 6330.
guidelines:
Analysis
The dry test specimens must be laid out on a smooth flat surface
without being stretched.
Record the distance between the marks to the nearest millimetre and
calculate the changes in length as a percentage of the original length
to the nearest 0.1%.
For all changes in dimension, indicate a shrinkage as a minus symbol
(-) and an extension as a plus symbol (+).
Report
All fabrics
Report the change in dimension of:
- the average of the three lengths as a percentage
- the average of the three widths as a percentage
Narrow materials
Report the change in length as a percentage
74
T_F/Ac_PP4_T1
Dimensional Stability (Continued)

Performance The maximum percentage change for materials is specified in
standard
Table 1:
Table 1 Maximum percentage change for different material
75
T_F/Ac_PP4_T2
Washing Durability
Purpose
To assess the durability to washing of materials, garments and

components.
Apparatus
- Automatic washing machine (option 1)

- Hoovermatic, Roaches Twin Tub or Dynawash washing
machine (option 2)
- Dryer
Test specimen

- Sample length: Approximately 400mm
Components and accessories
- Components and accessories must be attached to the proposed
fabric in the manner used for production or they may be attached
to an accompanying material. PU cups test as received (minimum
three pairs)
Method
For fabric and garments perform the test using the washing method
in EN ISO 6330 for 20 cycles (using washing machine option 1)
or for 1 cycle (using washing machine option 2).
guidelines:
- PU cups (laminated cups, white colour): EN ISO 6330
Procedure 2A (60oc, normal wash), tumble dry low and flat dry.
- PU cups (laminated cups, coloured and non laminated bare cups):
Procedure 7A (40oc, gentle wash), tumble dry low and flat dry.
- Plastic, metal and rhinestone decorative items: machine wash with
the hand wash programme (a laundry bag may be used if
necessary), flat dry.
- Garments: select the washing conditions that correspond to those
intended to be on the care label
76
T_F/Ac_PP4_T2
Washing Durability (Continued)
Evaluation and
reporting
results
Comment on the following and where appropriate indicate the

position on the specimen.
- Differential shrinkage which may have occurred between fabric
components e.g. distortion of components.
- Fused components which may have delaminated or otherwise
changed in appearance.
- Change in handle or appearance where significant.
- Effects on accessories such as buttons, zips, care labels.
- Colour fastness
For metal decorative items use the following grading system when
assessing the components:
Grade 1 = Slight peeling off of the metal coating (accepted)
Grade 2 = Moderate peeling off of the metal coating (rejected)
Grade 3 = Severe peeling off of the metal coating (rejected)
Performance
standard
For fabrics, garments and components there must not be any:

(for labels or prints the wording must still be legible)
- Breakage
- Cracking
- Peeling
- Delamination
- Distortion
For metal decorative items only grade 1 (slight peeling off of the
metal coating) is accepted.
For Rhinestone decorative items no stones should come off.
77
Section 3
78
T_F/Ac_CF_T1
Colour Fastness to Light

Purpose
To determine the resistance of the colour of textiles to the action of

light.
Light fastness tests are carried out on white textiles used for
underwear in order to assess the quality of optical brightening agents.
Apparatus
Xenon arc lamp
Test specimen
As specified in EN ISO 105-B02.
Method
Perform the test in accordance with EN ISO 105-B02.
Report
The numerical rating for the colour fastness to light.
Performance
standard
Grade 4
79
T_F/Ac_CF_T2

Purpose
To determine the resistance of the colour of textiles to rubbing off

and staining other materials (both dry and wet).
Apparatus
- Crockmeter
- Cotton rubbing cloth
- Grey scale, for assessing staining.
Test specimen
As specified in EN ISO 105-X12.
Method
Perform the test in accordance with EN ISO 105-X12.
Report
Report the staining of the cotton rubbing cloth with the grey scale for
staining for dry and wet rub separately.
Performance
standard

Dry: grade 4 staining.
Wet: grade 3 staining.
80
T_Ac13_CF_T3
Colour Fastness to Rubbing of Paper Tags

Purpose
To determine the resistance of the colour of paper tags to rubbing off

and staining other materials (only wet).
Apparatus
Reagent
Highly concentrated alcohol (96%).
Test specimen
Test as received.
Method
Perform the test in accordance with EN ISO 105-X12 (modified).
Crockmeter
Cotton rubbing cloth
Grey scale, for assessing staining.
Grey scale, for assessing change in colour.
The modifications to the method include:

- The test should only be done wet.
- One test should be performed with water and another with highly
concentrated alcohol (96%).
- The colour loss of the paper tag has to be evaluated using the grey
scale for change of colour.
Report
Report the staining of the cotton rubbing cloth with the grey scale for
staining for wet rub performed with water and alcohol separately.
Report the change of colour of the paper tag.
Performance
standard

Staining on the rubbing cloth: grade 4 minimum
Colour change of the paper tag: grade 4 minimum.
81
T_F/Ac_CF_T4
Colour Fastness to Washing

Purpose
To determine the resistance of the colour of textiles to washing.
Apparatus
Reagents
- Detergent (ECE detergent without optical brightener)
Test specimen
As specified in EN ISO 105-C06.
Method
Perform the test in accordance with EN ISO 105-C06 test number

A1S in Table 2 of the standard (unless specified otherwise).
Report
- The numerical grey scale rating for change in colour of the

specimen.
- The numerical grey scale rating for staining of each type of fibre in
the multifibre adjacent fabric, and the type of multifibre adjacent
fabric used.
Performance
standard

Staining: grade 4
Launderometer
Stainless steel containers
- Non-corrodible stainless steel balls
- Multifibre adjacent fabric, type DW
- Grey scale for assessing change in colour
- Grey scale for assessing staining
82
T_F/Ac_CF_T5
Colour Fastness to Perspiration

Purpose
To determine the resistance of the colour of textiles to the action of

human perspiration.
Apparatus
- Perspirometers and a 5 kg weight

- Acrylic resin plates (60 mm x 115 mm x 1.5 mm)
- Oven (maintained at 372C)
Reagents
1. Alkaline solution, freshly prepared

2. Acid solution, freshly prepared
Test specimen
As specified in EN ISO 105-E04.
Method
Perform the test in accordance with EN ISO 105-E04.
Report

specimen in each solution.
fabric used.
Staining: grade 4
Performance
standard
83
T_F/Ac_CF_T6
Colour Fastness to Water

Purpose
To determine the resistance of the colour of textiles to immersion in

water.
Apparatus
- Perspirometer and a 5 kg weight

- Acrylic resin plates (60mm x 115 mm x 1.5 mm)
Reagent
- Deionized water
Test specimen
Method
Report

specimen.
fabric used.
Performance
standard

Staining: grade 4
84
T_F/Ac_CF_T7
Colour Fastness to Sea Water (Swimwear)

Purpose
To determine the resistance of the colour of textiles used for

swimwear to immersion in sea water.
Apparatus

Reagents
- Deionized water
- Sodium chloride (30 g per litre of deionized water)
Test specimen
Method
Report

specimen.
fabric used.
Performance
standard

Staining: grade 4
85
T_F/Ac_CF_T8
Colour Fastness to Chlorinated Water (Swimwear)

Purpose
To determine the resistance of the colour of textiles used for

swimwear to the action of active chlorine in concentrations such as
are used to disinfect swimming-pool water.
Apparatus
- Launderometer
- Stainless steel containers
- pH meter
Reagent
- Sodium hypochlorite solution (NaOCl) containing 50mg of active

Chlorine per litre.
Test specimen
Method
Report
The numerical grey scale rating for change in colour of the

specimen.
Performance
standard

86
T_F/Ac_CF_T9
Colour Change after Multiple Washing

Purpose
To determine the resistance of the colour of textiles to multiple

washes.
Apparatus
- Launderometer
- Stainless steel containers
- Non-corrodible stainless steel balls
Reagents
- ECE reference detergent without optical brightener (4g/l)

- Deionized water
- Sodium perborate tetrahydrate (NaBO3.4H2O) (1 g/l)
Test specimen
As specified in EN ISO 105-C06 (without the multifibre adjacent

and/or adjacent fabric)
Method
Perform the test in accordance with EN ISO 105-C06 test number

A2S in Table 2 of the standard (unless specified otherwise).
Test the specimen five times using the conditions specified in test
number A2S without intermediate drying.
Between each washing, rinse each specimen in cold water.
Use a new detergent solution for each washing process.
Report

specimen.
Performance
standard

87
T_F/Ac_CF_T10
Phenolic Yellowing
Purpose
To assess the potential to phenolic yellowing of textile materials.
Apparatus
Glass plates (each 100 mm x 40 mm x 3 mm)

Incubator or oven (to maintain 50 3oc)
Perspirometer and a 5 kg weight
Test papers (100 mm x 75mm: available from James H Heal & Co. Ltd.)
Control fabric (100 mm x 30mm: available from James H Heal & Co. Ltd.)
Butyl hyroxytoluene (BHT)-free polyethylene film (measuring a
minimum of 400 mm x 200 mm)
Adhesive tape
- Grey scale, for assessing staining.
-
Test specimen
As specified in EN ISO 105-X18.
Method
Perform the test in accordance with EN ISO 105-X18.
Report
The numerical grey scale rating for staining to express the potential
of phenolic yellowness of materials.
Performance
standard

Staining: grade 4
As a general guideline it is recommended that the pH value of
synthetic materials is within the range of pH 4-5.5 in order to
reduce the potential of phenolic yellowing.
88
T_F/Ac_CF_T11
Colour Fastness to Nitrogen Oxides/Burnt Gas Fumes

Purpose
To determine the resistance of the colour of textiles to:

- The action of nitrogen oxides produced during combustion of gas,
coal, oil etc. and when air is passed over heated filaments
- Exposure to atmospheric oxides of nitrogen as derived from the
combustion of chemically pure butane gas.
Apparatus
Exposure chamber
Control sample
- Standard of fading
- Grey scale, for assessing change in colour.
- Natural gas
-
Test specimen
As specified in ISO 105-G01 or ISO 105-G02 (AATCC 23).
Method
Perform the test in accordance with ISO 105-G01 or ISO 105-G02

(AATCC 23).
specimen.
Report
Performance
standard

Colour change: grade 3-4 (3 cycles) excluding bare PU cups
89
T_Ac13_CF_T12
Colour Fastness: Dye Transfer in Storage; Paper Tags

Purpose
To assess the degree of colour transfer of paper tags under storage

conditions.
Apparatus

- Plastic bag, polyethylene (large enough to contain the Perspirometer)
- Evaporating dish or glass beaker (having the capacity of hold 50mL
of water)

- Distilled or deionised water
Test specimen
If the sample measures less than 100mm x 400mm, test as received

otherwise prepare a test specimen measuring 100mm x 40mm.
Method
Perform the test in accordance with AATCC 163, Option 1

(modified).
The modifications to the method include:
- The testing temperature and time should be 503C, 16 hours.
- Where possible sandwich the paper tags with the material(s)
that will come in contact with the paper tag during storage.
Report
Performance
standard
The numerical grey scale rating for staining.

The minimum requirements for
Staining: grade 4-5
90
Chemical Tests
Section 4
Chemical Tests
91
Chemical Tests
T_Ac_Ch1_T1
Purpose
To assess the corrosive potential and plating quality of metal and metalplated components.
Apparatus
Test
specimen
Method
For small samples test as received.
Report
Report the degree and type of corrosion based on the following

assessment scale:
- No corrosion
- Spot corrosion
- Serious corrosion
Desiccator (Air tight, with a perforated plate)

Oven
1.
2.
3.
4.
Pre-heat the oven to 702C.

Rinse the specimen in Isopropanol.
Dry the specimen for one hour.
Fill the bottom of the desiccator with distilled water so that there is
a difference of 50mm between the water and the perforated plate.
5. Put the opened desiccator in the oven at 702C for 30 minutes.
6. Put the specimens on the perforated plate of the dessicator spaced
apart at a distance of 30 mm.
7. Close the lid of the desiccator.
8. Leave the closed desiccator in the cabinet dryer for 5 days (120
hours) at 70oC (2oC).
9. After 5 days (120 hours) remove and rinse the specimen with
distilled water and leave it to dry for 16 hours in a standard
atmosphere
10. Assess the specimen for corrosion.
Example of serious corrosion
Performance
standard
92
Chemical Tests
T_F/Ac_Ch2_T1
Fibre Content
Purpose
To identify and check the fibre composition of textiles.
Method
Perform the tests in accordance with the methods of analysis

specified in the European Directives 96/73/EC and 73/44/EEC.
Report
Report the fibre type and percentage fibre content by weight of the
sample analysed (if applicable).
Performance
standard
+ or 3% for blends only

Where fibre content is 100%, no tolerance is allowed.
93
i
APPENDIX
Triumph Global Quality Manual Raw Material (Edition: January 2010)
Appendix 1
APPENDIX 1
Marking Stencil for Elongation Tests
Appendix 2
APPENDIX 2
Instructions for Performing Spectraphotometric Tests

The instructions given below apply only for spectraphotometric tests and do not refer to
the conditions for correct operation of the spectraphotometric system, such as the warmup time, correct calibration of the light source etc.
1. Preparing the test samples
The test samples must be completely free of any dirt. Even small dust particles on
light or dark colour fabrics, white or black can affect the measurement result.
The test samples must be large enough so that when they are folded several times
there is still a sufficient test area.
Samples from suppliers and customers should be examined at the same location,
therefore the measurement area must be marked by the finisher or the supplier as
follows:
The defined measurement area must have a larger diameter by at least 1 cm than
the measurement opening of the spectrophotometer.
2. Number of layers of the test specimen
It is necessary to always lay the test specimen on the colour standard when inserting
it into the spectrophotometer.
Number of layers used:
a) Single layer sample for lace, embroidery motifs and tapes.
b) Four layer sample for non-transparent, completely dense fabrics
3. Measuring of laces and embroideries
As the colour tone of the motif dominates, the largest area of the motif is to be
measured.
4.
Setting of the brilliance

a) Without brilliance - white samples
b) With brilliance
- all colour samples
ii
Appendix 3
APPENDIX 3
Colour Scale Cards for Checking the Colour Homogeneity of a Batch
iii
Appendix 4
APPENDIX 4
Fluorescent Lamp Equipment from VeriVide
iv
Appendix 4
Appendix 5
APPENDIX 5
Triumph Testing Protocol
Test Methods and Performance Standards

KNITTED FABRICS
Evaluation
#
General Appearance
Feel and Stability
Neutral Odour
Fabric Width
Fabric Thickness
(for spacer fabric)
Fabric Weight
Triumph Testing Code

T_F_A_T1
T_F_A_T2
T_F_A_T3
T_F_M_T2
Same as the master sample
As specified on the RMS*
T_F_M_T3

Fabric Density
T_F_M_T4
T_F_M_T5
Fabric Curling**
T_F_M_T7

The degree of curling should not be more
than 90o
Physical Testing
Evaluation
Bursting Strength
Elongation

T_F_PP1_T1
T_F_PP2_T1
120kPa
Knitted fabrics (filament yarn): grade 3-4 at
2000 cycles
Knitted fabrics (spun yarn including
natural/synthetic fibres and fibre blends):
grade 3-4 at 200 cycles
Pilling Resistance
T_F_PP3_T1
Snagging Resistance
(for filament yarn)
T_F_PP3_T2
Grade 3-4
Spirality (Skew)
T_F_PP3_T3
Not more than 3% as manufactured and 5%

after wash.
T_F/Ac_PP4_T1
T_F/Ac_PP3_T4
Global Manual + RMS*

No major or noticeable change in
appearance when compared with the original
sample.
Dimensional Stability &

Washing Durability**
T_F/Ac_PP4_T2
There must not be any:

- Breakage
- Distortion
vi
Appendix 5

KNITTED FABRICS (Continued)
Colour Fastness Testing
Evaluation
Grade 4
Light
T_F/Ac_CF_T1
Rubbing
T_F/Ac_CF_T2

Washing
T_F/Ac_CF_T4

Staining: grade 4
Perspiration
T_F/Ac_CF_T5

Staining: grade 4
Water
T_F/Ac_CF_T6

Staining: grade 4
Sea Water***
T_F/Ac_CF_T7

Staining: grade 4
Chlorinated Water***
T_F/Ac_CF_T8
T_F/Ac_CF_T9
T_F/Ac_CF_T10
T_F/Ac_CF_T11
Colour change: grade 3-4 (3 cycles)
After Multiple Washing**

Phenolic Yellowing
Nitrogen Oxides/Burnt Gas
Fumes**

Staining: grade 4
Chemical Tests
Evaluation
Fibre Content
Test Method
T_F/Ac_Ch2_T1
+/ 3% for blends only. Where fibre content

is 100%, no tolerance is allowed.
Refer to the current version of the Oeko Tex Standard and the REACH Regulation and
Triumph International Vendor Information (TIVI) for further details of chemical tests
Remarks:
* Raw Material Specification
** Optional test (test upon request)
*** For swimwear only
# Will not be performed by Triumphs Quality Partners and is not within the scope of the Triumph testing
and accreditation programmes. However, Production Centres and Suppliers shall ensure that the material
conforms to the performance standard.
vii
Appendix 5

WOVEN FABRICS
Evaluation
#
General Appearance
Feel and Stability
Neutral Odour
Fabric Width
Fabric Thickness
Fabric Weight
#
Fabric Density

T_F_A_T1
T_F_A_T2
T_F_A_T3
T_F_M_T2
T_F_M_T3
T_F_M_T4
T_F_M_T5
Physical Testing
Evaluation
Tensile Strength

T_F_PP1_T3
Tear Strength
T_F_PP1_T4
Elongation
T_F_PP2_T1
T_F_PP3_T1
Pilling Resistance
200N
Warp: 9N
Weft: 7N
Grade 4 at 2000 cycles

T_F/Ac_PP4_T1
T_F/Ac_PP3_T4

T_F/Ac_PP4_T2

- Breakage
- Distortion

Evaluation
Grade 4
Light
T_F/Ac_CF_T1
Rubbing
T_F/Ac_CF_T2

Washing
T_F/Ac_CF_T4

Staining: grade 4
Perspiration
T_F/Ac_CF_T5

Staining: grade 4
Water
T_F/Ac_CF_T6

Staining: grade 4
Sea Water***
T_F/Ac_CF_T7

Staining: grade 4
T_F/Ac_CF_T8
T_F/Ac_CF_T9
T_F/Ac_CF_T10
T_F/Ac_CF_T11

Phenolic Yellowing
Fumes**

Staining: grade 4
viii
Appendix 5

WOVEN FABRICS (Continued)
Chemical Tests
Evaluation
Fibre Content

T_F/Ac_Ch2_T1
+/ 3% for blends only. Where fibre
content is 100%, no tolerance is allowed.
Remarks:
ix
Appendix 5

PRINTED AND EMBROIDERED FABRICS AND LACE
Evaluation
General Appearance
T_F_A_T1
Feel and Stability
Neutral Odour
Fabric Density
T_F_A_T2
T_F_A_T3
T_F_M_T1
T_F_M_T2
T_F_M_T3
T_F_M_T4
T_F_M_T5
Fabric Curling**
T_F_M_T7
Repeat Size
Fabric Width
#
Fabric Thickness
Fabric Weight
#
Same as the master sample, 3mm for lace
ends
+/-5%
The degree of curling should not be more
than 90o
Physical Testing
Evaluation
Lace rigid.........70 kPa
Lace elastic...70 kPa
Burn out70 kPa
Open structure 70 kPa
Narrow materials 100mm width:
120kPa
Knitted fabrics (filament yarn): grade 3-4
at 2000 cycles
Knitted fabrics (spun yarn including
natural/synthetic fibres and fibre blends):
grade 3-4 at 200 cycles
Bursting Strength
T_F_PP1_T1
Elongation
T_F_PP2_T1
Pilling Resistance**
T_F_PP3_T1
Snagging Resistance**
(for filament yarn)
T_F_PP3_T2
Grade 3-4
Spirality (Skew)
T_F_PP3_T3
Not more than 3% as manufactured and

5% after wash.

T_F/Ac_PP4_T1
T_F/Ac_PP3_T4
Global Manual + RMS

T_F/Ac_PP4_T2

- Breakage
- Distortion
Appendix 5

PRINTED AND EMBROIDERED FABRICS AND LACE (Continued)
Evaluation
Grade 4
Light
T_F/Ac_CF_T1
Rubbing
T_F/Ac_CF_T2

Washing
T_F/Ac_CF_T4

Staining: grade 4
Perspiration
T_F/Ac_CF_T5

Staining: grade 4
Water
T_F/Ac_CF_T6

Staining: grade 4
Sea Water***
T_F/Ac_CF_T7

Staining: grade 4
Phenolic Yellowing
Fumes**
T_F/Ac_CF_T8
T_F/Ac_CF_T9
T_F/Ac_CF_T10
T_F/Ac_CF_T11

Staining: grade 4
Chemical Tests
Evaluation
Fibre Content

T_F/Ac_Ch2_T1
Remarks:
xi
Appendix 5

NARROW ELASTICS
Evaluation
#
General Appearance
Feel and Stability
Bowing
Weight
#
Dimensions

T_Ac1_A_T1
T_Ac1_A_T2
T_Ac1_M_T1
T_Ac1_M_T2
T_Ac1_M_T3
Up to 4%
Physical Testing
Evaluation
Elongation

T_F_PP2_T1
There should be no breakage of the
welded shoulder straps at the
recommended air pressure.
Tensile Strength of
Welded Shoulder Straps
T_Ac1_PP1_T14

T_F/Ac_PP4_T1
T_F/Ac_PP3_T4

No major or noticeable change in appearance
when compared with the original sample.
T_F/Ac_PP4_T2

- Breakage
- Distortion

Evaluation
Grade 4
Light
T_F/Ac_CF_T1
Rubbing
T_F/Ac_CF_T2

Washing
T_F/Ac_CF_T4

Staining: grade 4
Perspiration
T_F/Ac_CF_T5

Staining: grade 4
Water
T_F/Ac_CF_T6

Staining: grade 4
Sea Water***
T_F/Ac_CF_T7

Staining: grade 4
Phenolic Yellowing
Nitrogen Oxides/Burnt
Gas Fumes**
T_F/Ac_CF_T8
T_F/Ac_CF_T9
T_F/Ac_CF_T10
T_F/Ac_CF_T11

Staining: grade 4
xii
Appendix 5

NARROW ELASTICS (Continued)
Chemical Tests
Evaluation
Fibre Content

T_F/Ac_Ch2_T1
Remarks:
xiii
Appendix 5

HOOK AND EYE TAPES
Evaluation
#
General Appearance
Dimensions

T_Ac3_A_T1
T_Ac3_M_T1
The opening of the hook and eye must be 7 1 mm
Physical Testing
Evaluation
Hook and Eye pull out
Strength
T_Ac3_PP1_T9
1 hook and eye: 20lbs (90N)

2-3 hooks and eyes: 35lbs (160N)
T_F/Ac_PP4_T2

- Breakage
- Distortion

Evaluation
Light

T_F/Ac_CF_T1
Rubbing
T_F/Ac_CF_T2
Grade 4
Washing
T_F/Ac_CF_T4

Staining: grade 4
Perspiration
T_F/Ac_CF_T5

Staining: grade 4
Water
T_F/Ac_CF_T6

Staining: grade 4
T_F/Ac_CF_T9

Staining: grade 4
Phenolic Yellowing
Fumes**
T_F/Ac_CF_T10
T_F/Ac_CF_T11
Chemical Tests
Evaluation
Fibre Content**
(uncovered metal items)

T_F/Ac_Ch2_T1
T_Ac_Ch1_T1
No corrosion
Remarks:
xiv
Appendix 5

DECORATIVE ITEMS
Evaluation
#
Form and Size
Weight

T_Ac10_A_T1
T_Ac10_M_T1
Physical Testing
Evaluation
Washing Durability
(for non-textile materials)
- Breakage
- Distortion
T_F/Ac_PP4_T2
For metal decorative items only grade 1 (slight

peeling off of the metal coating) is accepted after 20
cycles.
For Rhinestone decorative items no stones should
come off after 20 cycles.
Colour Fastness Testing (applicable if the component contains textile materials)

Evaluation
Light

T_F/Ac_CF_T1
Rubbing
T_F/Ac_CF_T2
Grade 4
Washing
T_F/Ac_CF_T4

Staining: grade 4
Perspiration
T_F/Ac_CF_T5

Staining: grade 4
Water
T_F/Ac_CF_T6

Staining: grade 4
T_F/Ac_CF_T9

Staining: grade 4
Phenolic Yellowing
Fumes**
T_F/Ac_CF_T10
T_F/Ac_CF_T11
Chemical Tests
Evaluation

T_Ac_Ch1_T1
No corrosion
Remarks:
and accreditation programmes. However, PCs and suppliers shall ensure that the material conforms to the
performance standard.
xv
Appendix 5

PU/ FIBREFIL CUPS
Evaluation
Form and Shape
T_Ac2_A_T1
Thickness
T_Ac2_M_T1
+/- 1mm deviation from plastic cup/shot
There is no tolerance for the shoulder
strap extension.
+/- 0.5mm (for < 10mm)
+/- 1.0mm (for 10mm)
Physical Testing
Evaluation
#
Washing Durability

T_F/Ac_PP4_T2
- Breakage
- Delamination (if applicable)
- Distortion

Evaluation
^Light

T_F/Ac_CF_T1
^Rubbing
T_F/Ac_CF_T2
Grade 4
^Washing
T_F/Ac_CF_T4

Staining: grade 4
^Perspiration
T_F/Ac_CF_T5

Staining: grade 4
^Water
T_F/Ac_CF_T6

Staining: grade 4
^Sea Water***
T_F/Ac_CF_T7

Staining: grade 4
^Chlorinated Water***
T_F/Ac_CF_T8
T_F/Ac_CF_T9
^After Multiple Washing**

Phenolic Yellowing
T_F/Ac_CF_T10

Fumes**
T_F/Ac_CF_T11

Staining: grade 4
excluding bare PU cups
Chemical Tests
Fibre Content**
T_F/Ac_Ch2_T1

Remarks:
^ Applies only to the fabric on laminated PU cups
xvi
Appendix 5

Tags and Labels (including printed, pad print, heat seal etc.)
Physical Testing
Evaluation
T_F/Ac_PP4_T2
Washing Durability
(for labels or prints the wording must still be
legible)
- Breakage
- Cracking
- Peeling
- Delamination
- Distortion

Evaluation
Rubbing
T_F/Ac_CF_T2


of Paper Tags
T_Ac13_CF_T3
Staining on the rubbing cloth: grade 4 min.

Colour change of the paper tag: grade 4
min.
Dye Transfer in Storage;

Paper Tags
T_Ac13_CF_T12
Staining: grade 4-5
Chemical Tests
Remarks:
xvii
Appendix 5

Bra Wire Casing (Woven and Knit)
Physical Testing
Evaluation
Strength of Bra Wire

Casings to Penetration
T_F_PP1_T8
250N
T_F/Ac_PP4_T1
-2%, +0%
T_F/Ac_PP4_T2

- Breakage
- Distortion

Evaluation
Grade 4
Light
T_F/Ac_CF_T1
Rubbing
T_F/Ac_CF_T2

Washing
T_F/Ac_CF_T4

Staining: grade 4
Perspiration
T_F/Ac_CF_T5

Staining: grade 4
Water
T_F/Ac_CF_T6

Staining: grade 4
T_F/Ac_CF_T9

Staining: grade 4
Phenolic Yellowing
Fumes**
T_F/Ac_CF_T10
T_F/Ac_CF_T11
Chemical Tests
Fibre Content**
T_F/Ac_Ch2_T1

Remarks:
xviii
Appendix 5

Functional Components
(bra wires, plastic bones, buckle, slides and rings, spirals, zippers, sewing
threads, snap fasteners)
Evaluation
T_Ac4_M_T1
The curvature of the bra wire (tip to tip)

must be wire width.
The tolerance for bra wire length is -3mm,
+1mm
T_Ac5_A_T1
T_Ac5_M_T1
T_Ac6_A_T1
T_Ac6_M_T1
T_Ac7_M_T1
T_Ac8_A_T1
T_Ac8_M_T1
T_Ac9_A_T1
Form and Appearance of

Bra Wires
#

Appearance and
Manufacturing Quality of
Plastic Bones
#
Dimensions of Plastic
Bones
#
Appearance and
Manufacturing Quality of
Buckles, Slides and Rings
#
Dimensions of Buckle,
Slide and Rings
#
#
Appearance and
Performance of Zippers
#
#
Appearance of Sewing
Threads
T_Ac4_A_T1
Physical Testing
Evaluation
Tensile Strength of Rings
and Sliders
Resistance to Unsnapping
of Snap Fasteners
(Poppers)
T_Ac6_PP1_T5
100N
T_Ac9_PP1_T6
T_Ac12_PP1_T7
Min 9N (2lbs)
Max 27N (6lbs)
T_F/Ac_PP4_T2

- Breakage
- Distortion
xix
Appendix 5

Functional Components (Continued)
Colour Fastness Testing (applicable if the component contains textile materials)
Evaluation
Grade 4
Light
T_F/Ac_CF_T1
Rubbing
T_F/Ac_CF_T2

Washing
T_F/Ac_CF_T4

Staining: grade 4
Perspiration
T_F/Ac_CF_T5

Staining: grade 4
Water
T_F/Ac_CF_T6

Staining: grade 4
T_F/Ac_CF_T9

Staining: grade 4
Phenolic Yellowing
Fumes**
T_F/Ac_CF_T10
T_F/Ac_CF_T11
Chemical Tests
Evaluation
Fibre Content
(for textile materials)

T_F/Ac_Ch2_T1
T_Ac_Ch1_T1
No corrosion
Remarks:
xx
Appendix 6
APPENDIX 6
Acknowledgement
(Quality and Test Requirements)
I/We acknowledge that I/we have received and agree to the Triumph International
Quality and Test Requirements contained within the Triumph Global Quality Manual
Raw Material (Edition: January 2010).
COMPANY: ____________________________________________________________
1. Agreement and Compliance of Quality Requirements and Testing for products we

currently or may supply in the future.
2. Compliance and Conformity of European Community regulations pertaining to
R.E.A.C.H (EC 1907/2006).
3. Compliance and Conformity of OekoTex requirements and hereby attach a copy of
our current OekoTex certification No:______________________
__________________________
Authorised Signature and Company Stamp
________________________
Date
Please return the signed sheet to:

Triumph International Overseas Ltd. Hong Kong Branch
Attn: Corporate Quality Assurance Department,
6th Floor, Emperor International Square,
7 Wang Tai Road,
Kowloon Bay,
Kowloon,
Hong Kong
Fax: (852) 2343 4210
xxi

1.2.1 - Triumph Global Quality Manual and Appendix - Edition Jan 2010

Hochgeladen von

Dokumentinformationen

Originalbeschreibung:

Originaltitel

Copyright

Verfügbare Formate

Dieses Dokument teilen

Dokument teilen oder einbetten

Freigabeoptionen

Stufen Sie dieses Dokument als nützlich ein?

Sind diese Inhalte unangemessen?

Copyright:

Verfügbare Formate

1.2.1 - Triumph Global Quality Manual and Appendix - Edition Jan 2010

Hochgeladen von

Copyright:

Verfügbare Formate

Global Quality Manual Raw Material

(Edition: January 2010)

Global Quality Manual - Raw Material (Edition: January 2010)

Global Quality Manual - Raw Material (Edition: January 2010)

Technical Supply Conditions for Woven and Knitted Fabrics

Triumph Global Quality Manual Raw Material

Edition: January 2010

1. Technical Supply Conditions for Woven and Knitted

1.2 General Conditions

Triumph Global Quality Manual Raw Material

Edition: January 2010

Profile of Product Requirements for all Shipments to Triumph

Should no certificate Confidence in textiles tested for harmful substances

For additional information about Triumphs chemical requirements refer to the

Global Quality Manual - Raw Material (Edition: January 2010)

Triumph Global Quality Manual Raw Material

Edition: January 2010

2.2 Facilities and Apparatus

2.2.1 List of Facilities

For colour matching.

The atmosphere should be monitored with a

2.2.2 List of Apparatus

For colour tests

For visual colour testing

For visual colour testing

Sample file (colour scale cards)

For visual colour testing and general

Manual or computerised test card

Triumph Global Quality Manual Raw Material

Edition: January 2010

For assessments and measurements

With a pointer, 1 inch x 1 inch

Round, able to measure weight per square

With an accuracy of 0.01g.

Fabric inspection machine

The machine must be tension free when

For physical performance tests

Martindale abrasion tester

Pneumatic bursting strength tester

ICI mace snag tester

For elongation and stability tests

Pendulum testing machine

Triumph Global Quality Manual Raw Material

For colour fastness and chemical tests

Edition: January 2010

Xenon arc lamp

With desized bleached cotton lawn

With 5kg weights

Oven, incubator or cabinet dryer

Capable of maintaining a specified

With an accuracy of 0.02 unit

For use when determining the pH value of

Mesh drying trays

Multifibre adjacent fabric

BS EN ISO 105 A02 and BS EN ISO 105 A03

Electrically operated, single needle, lock

With an accuracy of 0.0001g.

With a range of -10oC to +110oC in 1.0oC

With audible alarms.

Including measuring cylinders, pipettes,

Non corrodible (~6 mm in diameter)

With a perforated plate