Triumph International

Assessments and Measurements

(Fabric)

T_F_A_T5

Revised: January 2009

Sewability of Fabrics
Purpose

To ensure that it is possible to stitch the fabric without any needle

damage.
Where there is a suspicion that incoming fabric may be subject to
needle damage, the fabric should be tested for sewability and the
possibility of sewing needle damage, before storage in the fabric
warehouse and whilst other quality testing is taking place. Such
fabrics would include those that appear dry or brittle, very sensitive
fabrics where there may also be a history of needle damage, or
batches that may have been stored for a long time or are over-dyed.

Apparatus

Sewing machine

Test specimen

A square cutting of fabric should be taken from each batch and that
cutting should be at least 250 x 250 mm (Figure 1).

Method

1. Allow the fabric square to relax and be at the ambient room

temperature.
2. Fold the fabric square in half and 322 sewn along two adjacent
sides, using typical factory production machinery, sewing thread,
needle type and size (Figure 2).
3. Turn the fabric square inside out, and stretch the 322 seams by
hand to examine for any needle damage (Figure 3).
4. Sew the fabric square with a 122 machine across its diagonal, again
using typical factory production machinery, sewing thread, needle
type and size (Figure 4).
5. Examine the fabric square for any evidence of needle damage and
fabric loop breakages as a result of the test along all its sewn
seams.
Note 1. Care should be taken not to confuse the normal entry hole
caused by the needle (especially in fine single jersey fabrics)
with the true damage caused by incorrect fabric finishing that
may results in laddering.

Report

Report the number of incidents of needle damage.

Note 2. Full records of all tests and fabric samples should be retained
for at least one season, until it is clear that there have been no
complaints of needle damage from the customer.

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Triumph International

Assessments and Measurements

(Fabric)

T_F_A_T5

Revised: January 2009

Sewability of Fabrics (Continued)

Performance
standard

One incident of needle damage will result in a fail and require a

second test on the fabric batch with a random sample.
No incidence of needle damage will result in a pass and the fabric
can be placed into storage awaiting issue to cutting.
If the fabric sample is considered to have failed, the fabric should
either be returned to the supplier for re-finishing and conditioning, or
proceed to cutting with caution and reference to the points of advice
in the next section of text, Possible Actions to Minimise Needle
damage on Unsatisfactory Fabrics.

Recommendations Possible actions to minimise needle damage on unsatisfactory

fabric:
Needle damage can occur on fabric that is excessively dry, has
insufficient lubricant finish applied, by using blunt sewing needles or
incorrect size of needle. Needle damage on unsatisfactory fabric can
be made worse by a build up of heat at the needle point, or by dry or
poorly lubricated sewing thread. The following actions can help to
minimise the damage caused.
a)
b)
c)
d)
e)
f)
g)

Ensure the sewing needles are not blunt or damaged.

Change the cone of sewing thread, in case you have dry or poorly lubricated
thread.
Consider conditioning the fabric batch in a humid atmosphere in a relaxed
state and retest.
Consider reducing the size of the sewing needle, do not use thick needles (85s
etc) for fine fabrics reduce to a 65 size.
Consider changing the needle type from a spear point to a ball point.
For cases of severe needle damage, consider using gold needles.
Fit an air blower to blow cool air at the needle point.

Figures

Figure 1

Figure 2

Figure 3

Figure 4
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