Raising the Steaks in Lahore

A Concise Recollection of the Evolution of Lahore's

Food Industry

By Ayesha Fatimah Rasul ( ayesha@raw.com.pk )

Every culture throughout different phases of time has been identified by its unique
characteristics. In fact, the very word "culture" signifies a set of social habits,
traditions, norms and values indigenous to a particular group of people within a
geographical distribution. Among the many things that have occupied the thoughts
and efforts of people belonging to all cultures, gustatory advances probably take
priority even to this day.
There are many factors which lead to the selective and intrinsic culinary traditions
peculiar to each culture, past and present. One of the most influential among such
factors is perhaps the climate of any region. Eskimos of the Arctic Circle and
Greenland rely heavily on seal blubber and walrus meat not only because of their
high fat content which helps in keeping them warm, but also due to the multiple
uses of this fat as lamp fuel and preservative etc. Similarly, the people of Tibet use
yak as their prime source of meat, milk, butter and fine fur. Even within the
Indo-Pak Sub-continent climatic conditions have driven food selectivity as can be
seen in the regular usage of rice, yogurt and lassi (buttermilk), to name a few.
Availability is also a factor determining the selectivity of culinary cultural trends.
Arabic nomads exemplify this fact by their usage of camel meat, dates and goat's
milk. People in the Mediterranean belt have used garlic, onions and olives, even in
times when their English counterparts considered it a revolting trend, perhaps
because of a mix of climatic reasons and availability. Acquired traditions within a
culture also at times set out to define dietary preferences.
It is safe to state that food and culture have evolved together and continue to do so.
The amalgamation of "how and what we eat" into "how and in which way we live"
has led to the breeding of new ideas and infact new industries. Food and its related
sciences as we know them today have undergone a change in status. People the
world over with time have primed their instincts from "eating to survive" to
"surviving to eat". This change is perhaps in sync not only with the changing needs
of time but also the change within the higher cognitive abilities of our species that
occurred over the centuries. What food means today is in many ways different from
what it did many years ago. From being an alimentary requisite of our biological
functioning, it has gained an additional role of being some sort of unifying force
that binds society together. As might be evident to even the most mediocre
observer, one of the fastest growing industries in Pakistan today is the food
industry. The basic role of this article is to note the past and current trends that lead
to the evolution of food, from a basic need to a multi-million industry.

Many an ardent thinker and writer have labeled man as a "social animal". This
holds true as the basis of our discussion here. It was this very element of being
social that lead to the afore-mentioned evolution. What better than to socialize
everyday and share daily frustrations and common happenings with fellow men of
compatible nature and status? What indeed a better medium than fulfilling a basic
requirement along with such discussions? What better way to talk out the daily
grind, so to speak, than to do it over a hot meal or a soothing cup of tea? This
ideation has been the back bone of converting a basic need to an industry.
There have been examples even in our country, Pakistan. The biggest role has been
played by tea stalls and pan shops in every suburb. Pak Tea House earned its place
in the history of our country by becoming the breeding ground of literary and
political discussions. Maula Baksh Pan Shop similarly was (and still is) a landmark
in Lahore due to the scores of people visiting it and venting out their daily
occurrences. Many other places like these continue to be part of the daily routine of
men belonging to all socio-economic groups, but a new era that would soon
revolutionize the food trends was soon to follow. This was the era of college and
university education which took place after the 1950's.
Perhaps, the inspiration that laid the foundation of the food industry as we know it
today came from the most unlikely of all sources, campus placed canteens and tuck
shops. Students of well based institutions like the University Of Punjab and other
famous institutions needed a place for informal discussions. The only place with
such a casual atmosphere which could be provided along with convenience was the
campus canteen.
For obvious reasons human nature desires and regards change at every level.
Therefore, the concept of a group of students getting together and going out grows
purely out of the need for such a change. Places like Shezan and Indus Restaurant
on The Mall Road, Lahore and Tangiers Ice Cream Parlor became frequently
visited venues of these students. Simultaneously, another group of people were
utilizing many of the same venues along with certain others like Salloo's on The
Mall Road. These were businessmen who conducted both formal business and
personal gatherings at these sites. They further contributed in the evolution of the
food industry by expanding such visits with their families on weekends. Hence, the
concept of families eating out stemmed. This led to the need for variety and many
new places cropped up on the scene. Most notably, it was the Chinese restaurants
that initially took the city by storm.
Another turning point that shaped this evolution was the emergence of the 9 - 5
corporate office culture. Many people initially used to bring lunch from home.
Then certain delivery services came into being that provided the facility of getting
food delivered from homes to offices during the lunch hour. Other changes like
food stalls and "dhabbas" around office facilities took place and provided an
economical alternative to office workers. With the passage of time, many of these
places developed into well structured eateries or food chains that specialized in
catering to workers and businessmen during the lunch hour.
It is true that a country's economic status and development shapes the destiny of all
agricultural, industrial and educational departments. With the economic changes
that took place in Pakistan over time, we all agree that inflation is the most
commonly remembered consequence. This is to signify that despite increased

expense of living and in spite of raised cost of maintenance, expansion took place
in all quarters. The food industry also gradually expanded in the face of all
economic challenges. The modern era of the food industry can be attributed to the
categorization of the city into residential and commercial areas. Gulberg, once a
high class residential area gave way to rampant commercialization. Main
Boulevard of Gulberg paved the way for offices and plazas whereas MM Alam
Road became the headquarters of small businesses and restaurants. Arguably, one
of the first places that somehow expedited the modern concept of eating out was
'Copper Kettle'. It primarily targeted younger adults with its unique atmosphere,
unusual menu and star attractions like 'Steak' and the ever famous 'Caked Alaska'.
After the success of this, one remembers restaurant after restaurant and chain after
chain dotting the face of the city.
During this entire process, Pakistan caught up with globalization and international
chains like McDonald's, KFC, and Pizza Hut began to establish themselves on a
franchise basis. The government of Pakistan also caught up with the entire theme of
industrializing the concept of eating out. Traditional places that have always been
the center of excellence in food and charming, rustic atmosphere like Laxmi
Chowk underwent a drastic face-lift. Gawalmandi and Old Anarkali were
transformed into marvelous, modern (food streets) that reflected the traditional
flavor and architecture of the city. This chain of events truly ensured that things
don't slow down from there onwards.
In this regard, things have been anything but static in the food industry. The latest
trends are eateries and cafes that cater to customers twenty-four hours a day. With
the emergence of 24-hour businesses like radio stations and light offices like call
centers, cafes like 'Coffee, Tea and Company' have capitalized on the opportunity to
increase their clientele. In addition to this, there are scores of coffee shops, cafes,
and dessert joints across the city. Probably the driving force behind their success is
that many people find time to socialize and catch up with friends between meals, in
what we know to be "tea time". In other cases, strategic location might pay
dividends in earning extra clientele attracted from nearby shops and businesses.
Indeed, with the accelerated development of night life in Lahore the future lies in
more 24-hour cafes, restaurants and drive-through eateries.
One might argue that there is too much emphasis on satiating the pleasures of the
palate and the higher needs of people are neglected. However, the sad reality is that
there is a staggering dearth of modes of entertainment in the city, and all over the
country. There is no concept of developing public libraries, no encouragement or
availability of affordable sporting facilities, no intellectual forums or worthwhile
movie theaters. It seems that the only way in which people find some happiness is
in having a meal with family or friends in one of the many restaurants available.
Apparently, Elsa Schiaparelli, had Lahore in mind when she said that "A good cook
is like a sorceress who dispenses happiness". One must concede that along with the
mind-boggling development in business and commerce, the food industry has
continued to expand its roots deeper and deeper into society. The famous American
chef Fanny Farmer foresaw this fact when she said "Progress in civilization has
been accompanied by progress in cookery".
Culture and food are inseperable. particularly in Lahore, food is the culture. It is a
phenomenon which is enjoyed by people today, as it has been enjoyed and
cherished long in the past, and will continue to do so in the future, as the food

industry develops further and more avenues are explored in the exciting world of
palatal delights.

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