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Sock tutorial

Factory
Visited date

: IL Bangla (Interloop) - Narsingdi


: 31st Oct 2015

Participants

: Anuruddha Indatissa along with Howlader Jashim Uddin & Nayan Majumder.

Anatomy of a sock & Shoe size vs Sock size


APPROXIMATE SHOE SIZE

Top welt

Leg

Sock Size

CHILDREN

3.0
3.5
4.0
4.5
5.0
5.5
6.0
6.5
7.0
7.5
8.0
8.5
9.0
9.5
10.0
10.5
11.0
11.5
12.0
12.5
13.0
14.0
15.0
16.0

Baby
00
0-1
1 - 2
3-4
4 - 5
6-7
7 - 8
9 - 10
10 - 11
12 - 13
13 - 1
2-3

MENS AND BOYS

1
1 - 2
3-4
4 - 5
6 - 6
7-8
8 - 9
9 - 10
10 - 11
11
12 - 12
13 - 14
14 - 16
16 - 18

LADIES

2 - 3
4-5
5 - 6
6 - 7
8-9
9 - 10
10 - 11
11 - 12
12 - 13

01

Sock Shape / Type


Standard socks:
over-the-calf / dress / long / tall / knee-high / executive / full-length socks
mid-calf / crew / half-length socks
ankle / anklet / sport / short / quarter-length socks
Formal attire traditionally requires long/dress socks (to prevent any flashes of visible skin, and because they're less prone to bunching/falling).
Unseen Socks:
no-show / liner / loafer / invisible / ped / low cut/ footie socks
The Naming of unseen socks is wildly non-standard. Socks named "no-show" might be anything from minimal all the way up to the ankle bone.
Right now LF developing 3 socks for customer MEIJER
Crew (Standard Sock)

Low Cut (Unseen)

Main different
between Low cut &
No Show is Top Welt
height.
Low cut style Top
Welt height is bigger
than No Show style

No Show (Unseen)
02

Sock Heel types


There are varies type of sock heels & during our visit we have studied below 3..
Y heel = Gives more room for fitting.
Real Heel = Straight
Pouch Heel

Real heel = Straight


Pouch heel

Pouch heel

Real heel = Straight


Y heel

Y heel

03

Arch support
Arch support use in order to hold sock in place i/of slide around inside shoe.

Without Arch support style

With Arch support style

Low Cut

No show

Low
Cut

No
show
04

Sock Measurements
1. Most of customer provide original sample & manufacture follow the same.
2. Manufacture well aware Shoe size vs Sock size. So they make sure to maintain standard measurements.
3. According to Interloop experience they prefer below measurements for the sock.
Without arch No show & Low cut
styles

Without arch Crew

With arch No show & Low cut


styles

With arch Crew

05

Sock Sizing & fitting


Sock sizing with range. That range will be Lower end of stretch & upper end of stretch.
Below are the example:
Size 9-11 for Young Mens
Size 10 13 for Regular Men's
Size 13 16 for Plus
For USA customers need to use NAHM (National Association of Hosiery Manufactures) foot form to check fitting.
For European customers using leg shape forms.

For USA customers

For European customers


06

NAHM foot form - National Association of Hosiery Manufactures board


The seams of the sock at the heel & toe should line
up in the center of the holes on the NAHM board.

Toe gore

Heel gore

07

NAHM board fitting

This is a good fit. The sock is


hugging the board & all seams line
up with the proper holes.
No excess fabric at the toe

This sock is too big for this


board. Seams do not align with
holes & sock drops off the
board.

Another bad fitting. Although seams


are spaced in the correct alignment
holes, there is too much bulk at the
top of the sock.
08

Important tips to use NAHM foot form


1. Finished socks should be tested both before & after launderings (following AATCC test method 135).
2. Stretch socks must fit both the lower and upper ends of a specified size range. For example: 10-13 sock must neither
fit too loose on size 10 form nor too tight on size 13 form.
3. Each sock can only be sized one
board.

time & the order of sizing must always be smaller NAHM first then larger NAHM
After that select the NAHM form
representing the higher end of the intended
sizing range.
Pull the sock on the form stretching the
sock fabric to maximum extension without
breaking the sock fibers.
Bigger size

Then select the NAHM form


representing the lower end of the
intended sizing range. Pull the sock on
the form without stretching the fabric
and then smooth out the wrinkles.

Smaller size

Finished sock after wash.


First check hand feel &
then measure.

Do not measure fitted sock.


Do not Fit again.
This sock can not use again.

09

Yarn composition
Yarn details & fiber composition differ design / style & customer wise.
Example:
Yarn details:
Welt + Body Main Yarn # 20/1 RW spun polyester 100%
Body Plating yarn # 150-20 6% poly cover spandex RW
Rib + Welt Plating yarn # 150D polyester RW
Heel & toe yarn # 20/1 Grey H-12
Elastic # 140-75 15% poly cover spandex RW
Tie down # 70/24/4 DN TXD RAW WHITE NYLON 100%
Linking Yarn # 30/2 DN TXD RW 120101 NYLON 100%
Motif # 70/2 nylon ( Only for SL-7)
Fiber Composition:
85% Polyester
12 % Cotton
2% Spandex
1% Nylon

Purpose of Plating yarn:


Plating is the process of laying a yarn (usually a
spandex yarn) behind the body yarn in a sock to
provide a fabric that has stretch properties.
Plating provides for a range of fit. Example: Size
9 to size 11 sock.

Main yarn

10

Sock knitting machine


There are varies type of knitting machines
Example: Machine Gauge # 9 , Needle 144, Diameter # 4
This machine can perform all type of socks across all the size range.

11

Quality controlling check points in bulk production

QA inspection table in production


floor

Stretch test.
Every 8 hours check stretch check &
maintain records

Processing Lab:
This lab fully dedicate to perform all the
necessary test during production.

12

Toe Joining
Interloop Bangladesh using automated machine to join Toe.
Apart from toe joining this machine will turn right side out.

Toe Joining

Sock turn right side out

13

Key production quality defects


1) Inside thread can not have any bridge. This is Critical defect..
2) Toe joining can not be way / puckering.
2) Knitting holes.
2) Stain. / Dirt marks
2) Yarn shorts.
Inside thread can not have any bridge. This is Critical defect.
Bridge not acceptable

Thread end not too short or


too long

Toe joining can not be way / puckering.


14

Washing
It is mandatory to wash socks with necessary chemicals & softeners as per the standered

15

Pressing
Using polished aluminum leg form to press socks.
This aluminum leg form stretch the sock to require size to achieve spec measurement.
Then using automated pressing machine to press socks
Comparison
This aluminum leg
form is to achieve
spec during pressing

This NAHM board using


to check fitting of same
size sock.

16

In house Quality Assurance lab


All the incoming raw martials test from fty in house Quality Assurance lab before issuing to knitting department.
Below are some of the test that they perform in in-house lab
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.

Wicking test
Yarn twisting tester (twill per inch)
Yarn count test.
Crocking test.
Color fastness to washing.
Color fastness to perspiration.
Yarn count checking.
Yarn shrinkage test
Yarn wrapping test.

Vertical wicking test

Crocking test

17

Training & development in the workplace.


Interloop Bangladesh management well understand the Importance of Training & Development in the Workplace.

For new joiners


Addressing Weaknesses
Improved Employee Performance
Consistency
Employee Satisfaction

18

Thank You