Handicraft

,'-Mi
l'!',';i:
'
,
';'l
M:'
rnmim-
\i^':
aass__IT_LiiL
GopightN".
C.OEMRIGHT DEPOSfT.
HANDICRAFT
FOR
HANDY BOYS
A Boy Craftsman
^'Modern Electrics.
in His
Workshop.
Factory of the Juveiîle Manufacturing Co., of Dayton, Ohio.

Fitted up in a Play-House.
{See
Page
103.)
HANDICRAFT
FOR
HANDY BOYS
Iractical Plans
iorAwrk ana Play
withManj Ideas fcr EarningMoncjy^
Author of"The Boy Crajftsman \Eic.

vVitK nearly six nurulrca illustrations anJ working-drawings Dy tnc auinor and Nor manP Hall
BOSTON
LOTHROR LEE ir SHEPAED CO.
Copyright,
1911,
by Lothrop, Lee & Shepard Company.

Published, August, 1911.
AH
rights reserved.
Handicraft for Handy Boys.
J. S.
Gushing Co.
Berwick & Smith Co.
Norwood, Mass., U.S.A.
iP^^ rti
fl
! fi
1 "^
When you
when you
play hard; and
play,
work, do not play at
Theodore
all.
Roosevelt.
INTRODUCTORY NOTES
This
is
a companion volume to "
The Boy Craftsman," and
boys who want the

intended for the same class of readers,
latest ideas for making things, practical plans for earning money,
is
for games and
Mp-to-date suggestions
home
sports,
and
novelties
for
and school entertaijiments.
There are
new volume.
all
sorts
Some
of Handicraft for
Handy Boys
of the ideas will appeal
more
in this
directly to
younger readers, while other ideas will be better suited to the

older lads who have become more capable through experience
with earlier ventures and advancement in school. At the time
The Boy Craftsman," the author advanced
of the publication of
the opinion that it is well to provide a boy with a book which
contains not only a goodly measure of the simple work requiring little or no experience in the handling of tools, but also the
proper instruction to help him grow more proficient, and such
advanced work as he will then be prepared to undertake and the
success of this former volume has proven that such a book gets
**
it furnishes him with ideas for

and that it produces the best possible influence over him in encouraging him to be industrious. Every
young fellow loves to plan and dream about what he is ** going
to do " some day, and in simply looking over the more advanced
ideas in a book of this kind, he experiences, in his imaginative
right next to a boy's heart, that
many
years' work,
mind,
much
of the pleasures that his older brother or friend
work for this reason, no school boy is

such a book, and the act of placing a copy
gets out of the actual
too
young
to enjoy
INTRODUCTORY NOTES
VI
hands at an early age will be the means of instilling

him an ambition to make the best possible use of his
time, before he has had a chance to acquire a tendency to be
in his
in
an
idler.
As
"
The Boy Craftsman,"
the author has planned the

an economical basis, providing for the use of
old boards,
the materials which a boy ordinarily has at hand,
grocery boxes, cigar boxes, barrels, tin cans, worn-out pans and
spools, discarded clocks, broken
tins, pails, broom-handles,
chairs and other furniture, old hats and clothing, stovepipe,
clothes-line, screen wire, and other things too numerous to
mention,
besides many things which can be purchased for
a few cents.
The greater part of the ideas require very little
if any outlay of money, and many suggestions for earjiing money
have been included to make it possible for a boy to provide
himself with all the tools which he requires or wishes to own,
without having to call upon the home treasurer for the means
for such purchases.
These features were brought together
"
for the first time in
The Boy Craftsman," and have won
the confidence of parents who realize that, in giving a book
of this kind to their boys, they are providing something which
will encourage self-reliance and resourcefulness rather than
a dependence upon home for money for tools and working
material
which is often the cause of endless worry where
such cannot be furnished.
The work is along such lines
as will interest the boy with unlimited funds at his disposal, as
well as the boy in moderate circumstances, and, inasmuch as
it has been planned on a small cost basis, it should be the means
of doing him more good, and help him to form a firmer foundation for later years, than something which might tend to cultiin
stiggestions on
vate a love for extravagance.
Much of the work is closely allied to the studies of the

modern grammar and high schools, as will be seen by glancing
over the table of Contents, and it is hoped and believed that

INTRODUCTORY NOTES
this outside instruction will
vii
be the means of helping boys to
appreciate the value of close application to studies.

It is
impossible to
make
a book of this character complete,
in the sense of covering every scope of
boys are interested
for the field
is
work and play
in
which
practically inexhaustible,
growing larger day by day. Every new development

world is being investigated by an eager army
of boys possessing an unquenchable thirst for something new,
and generally some young mechanical genius discovers how
to introduce the idea into the boys' realm of work; and if
costly apparatus was used in the original experiments, he " plugs
away" until he finds out how this can be made, wholly or
partly, with the materials boys are accustomed to work with,
the truck to be found about the house, in the shed, in alleys
and in junk shops, and inexpensive stuff. This sort of original
investigation should be encouraged in boys, and no better way
can be found than by providing them with a book of modern
and ingenious work which will appeal to their mechanical
and
is
in the scientific
natures.
Here
an example of the pace at which boys' achievements

Every up-to-date
boy is now experimenting in electrical work and wireless telegraphy, work which has put into the background experimental
chemistry
not long ago one of the principal scientific pastimes, and one of the features of boys' handy books
and he
is producing original forms of model aeroplanes, while aeronautics now occupies more of his attention than kite-flying,
a fact which no one, a few years ago, would have believed
to be possible.
With the shifting of boys' interests in work
and play, it is only natural for the book which contains the
is
are following the developments of the day.
modern ideas to win the greatest amount of

Whether or not this book will meet the present
greatest variety of
popularity.
demands of boys, the author is willing to let his readers decide.

The manual training in the first portion of the book has been
INTRODUCTORY NOTES
viii
provided for the benefit of the boys
who have not
the advan-
tages of such instruction at school, as well as to help those
have these advantages,

for
home
The
use.
who
themselves with equipment

chapter on working-drawings has been
in providing
enough of the principles of mechanithem to design and work out their own
ideas accurately on paper, and the numerous plans for easily
made furniture, for toys and gifts, and for such handy contrivances for the house as a fireless cooker will furnish them
with a good supply of ideas to make selections from for shop
work. The suggestions for fitting up a boy's room and for
making box furniture and gymnasium apparatus will enable
boys to provide themselves with rooms furnished to suit their
inserted to instruct boys in
cal
drawing
to enable
The chapter on
convenience.
a boy's wireless telegraph outfit
home-made apparatus in its simplest

forms, the chapter on model aeroplanes shows some of the best
model flying machines, and the " auto-airship " described is a
practical scheme for a boy's airship that runs along a rope
cable in which the safety of a toboggan shde is combined with
some of the thrilHng sensations of flying through the air.
To encourage work in the open, outdoor pastimes have been
treated with as much care and consideration in the selection of
contains practical ideas for
material as indoor work.
Designers of home-made furniture for amateurs generally

omit dimensions on their working-drawings, probably figuring
that the
work
will thus
appear
less
complicated to them
but
designers of furniture and machines would not think of omitting these from drawings that are to be turned over to skilled
workmen, so
it is
foolish to expect boys to
get along without
The dimensions upon the furniture-drawings in ChapVI may make them appear complicated, but after study-
them.
ter
ing the instructions for making working-drawings,

will find
them
clear
sary information.
and
explicit
and
any boy
to contain only the neces-
INTRODUCTORY NOTES
ix
All of the material in this volume has been thoroughly tested,
boys have already had an opporwhich have been included

in the author's articles for boys published recently in TJie Ladies'
Home Journal diX^^ Good Housekeeping, in his ''Boy Carpenter"
and hundreds of thousands
tunity to carry out
some
of
of the ideas
department of The Boys' Magazine, and in The American Boy.

The author wishes to extend his thanks to the editors and publishers of the above publications, for their care in preserving
and returning the original drawings for the illustrations to these
articles that they might be used in this book.
With a few exceptions, the photographs used were prepared
by the author, either from the models he made or from the
work constructed by his readers from his plans and instructions.
The author invites correspondence, and is always glad

how his boys succeed with their work, and pleased
hear
receive photographs of their handicraft for his collection.

A. N. H.
Chicago, Illinois,
May
31, 1911.
to
to
ONTENT
PART
AUTUMN AND WINTER HANDICRAFT

CHAPTER
PAGE
The Home Workshop

Introduction What
a Boy should be able

Do Selecting a
Suitable Place
a Shop Gas or Electric Light Cabinet-made
Benches A Home-made Bench A Solid Work Bench The
Bench-vise An Iron Bench-screw An Iron Vise A Work
Bench with Tool Drawers A Tool Tray Home-made Benchstops An Adjustable Bench
to
for
-stop.
CHAPTER
II
Tools and Home-made Shop Equipment
14
A Handy Guide Purchasing The PrinTools Required A Small Outfit and how
may be added
to Jack-knife Hatchet Hammer Tack Hammer Crate
Opener Nail-set Wooden Mallet Cross-cut Saw Rip-saw
Compass-saw Keyhole-saw Back-saw Coping-saw Bracketsaw Scroll-saw Jack-plane Smoothing-plane Fore-plane
Rabbet-plane Dado-plane Ratchet-brace Auger-bits Expansive-bit Wood
Bit Brad-awls Scratch-awl Hand
Gimlet Rose Countersink Bit Automatic
Spiral-ratchet
Screw-driver Hand Screw-driver Screw-driver Bit Firmer
Chisels Framing or Mortising Chisel Gouge Cold-chisel
Draw-knife Spoke-shave Half-round
Wood-file Handiest
Forms of Files Two-foot Folding Rule Try-square CarpenPurchasing Tools
for
cipal
it
Drill
Drill
CONTENTS
xii
Bevel Marking-gauge Wing Dividers

Odd-jobs Cutting
Wrench
Wood Handscrews Cabinet-maker's Clamps Home-made
Clamps Grindstone Oilstone Oiler Grocery-box Tool-chest
Tool-cabinet Tool-rack Open Shelves Material Boxes
Partitioned Nail Box Another Box Receptacles
Screws,
and Brads Horse Saw-bench Chair Saw-bench Miter-box
Bench-hook Shooting-board.
Square
ter's
Steel
Level
Pocket
Level
Pliers
for Nails,
CHAPTER
III
Elementary Manual Training

Selection of
Working
42
Material
Structure
of
Wood Cutting
Plain Sawing
Quarter Sawing
up the Log
Knots
Cupshakes and Heart-shakes
Checks
Seasoning
Kiln Drying
Undressed Stuff Dressed Stuff Matched Stuff
Stock or Stuif
Boards
Planks or Dimension Stuff
Matched-and-beaded Stuff
Purchasing Material
Timber
Stock Sizes of Lumber
A Mill
Estimating Cost of Material
Laying out Work
List
Gauging
A Planing Exercise Winding -sticks A Sawing Exercise
Common-joint
Butt-joint
Common-splice
Joints and Splices
Fished-splice Haived-joint Halved-splice Mortise-andtenon Joint Pins Wedging Rabbet Rabbet-joint Grooves
Housed-joint Tongue-and-groove Joint Mitered-joint Mitered-splice Dovetail-joint Dovetail Half-lap Joint Doweljoint Battens Cleats Taper Bevel Chamfer Gluing up
Work Screws Nails Carriage-bolts.
CHAPTER
Wood
IV
Finishing
75
Work Paint
Mixing
Paints Brushes Painting Staining Water Stains Oil
Stains Shellacking Filling Waxing Varnishing Rubbing
Polishing Oiling Sandpapering Puttying A Home-made
Putty-knife Caution about Oily Rags.
The
Finishes best adapted to Boys'
CHAPTER V
Working-drawings
What
86
have Difficulty in
Why Some People

and its Purpose
Definitions of
Reading Working-drawings
a Working-drawing
is
CONTENTS
xiii
PAGE
Detail Drawings, Specifications, Plans, Elevations, Cross-sections,
Scales A
Table A
T-square A 45 -degree Triangle A 60-degree Triangle Compasses A Ruling-pen A Set of Instruments A 12-inch Ruler
A Scale Drawing Pencils Pens Drawing Ink An Ink
Eraser and a Pencil Eraser An Erasing Shield A Home-made
Pencil Box and Inkstand Thumb-tacks Drawing-paper Blueprints Tracing-cloth Tracing-paper A Home-made Printingframe Preparing Working-drawings Dimension-lines, Dot-anddash Lines, and Dotted Lines Titles Marginal Lines Lettering.
Longitudinal Sections, and a Perspective Drawing
Drawing
Outfit
Drawing-board
CHAPTER
Made Furniture
A Good Test of a Boy's
Drafting
VI
Easily
103
What Boys generally want to

Make Plan for Earning Money The Juvenile Manufacturing
Company Choice of Material A Whisk-broom Holder A
Clock-shelf A Necktie Rack A Towel-rack Book-racks
An Extension Book-rack Popularity of Tabourets and Plant
List of Material showing Exact Finished Dimensions
Stands
A Tabouret Leveling up Uneven Legs Another Tabouret
A Plant Stand A Footstool L^pholstering Material and how
Upholster A Bench Two Magazine Racks A Music-cabinet
An Umbrella-stand A Roman Chair A Mission Chair A
Mission Writing-desk An Electric Lamp How
wire up the
Lamp with a Socket and Drop-cord A Drafting Table A Desk
Skill
^Â
to
to
Table.
CHAPTER
VII
Handy Contrivances for the House
135
Things a Boy can make and Sell

How to sell Home-made
Articles
A Fireless Cooker The Fireless Cooker used by the
United States Army
A Pot-cover Rack A Bottle-rack How
to cut Large Holes
A Flat-iron Rest A Flat-iron Rack A
Sleeve-board
A Knife-box A Scrub-pail Platform A Towelroller
An Ice-pick and Ice-chisel Rack
How to finish House-
hold Conveniences.
CONTENTS
xiv
CHAPTER
VIII
PAGE
Boy's
Room
in
an Attic
149
A Dividing Partition A Plumb-line A Plumb-board Lockers

Wainscoting A Large Clothes Closet Trousers Hangers
An Old-fashioned Cabin
The Entrance-door Transom
An Oil Heater or Stove A Wash-stand A BroomLatch
Lighting the Room
handle Towel-rack
A Home-made Hanging
Lamp Furnishing the Room
Home-made Picture-frames
The
Doors
Furniture
Pirate Chest
Boys who have no
Window
Seat
Suggestions
for
Attic.
CHAPTER
Box AND Barrel Furniture
The
IX
....
Making Things out

Writing-desk
A Shelf for Books
Possibilities for
of the
Materials
.160
at
An Office Chair
Hand A
A Waste-basket An Arm Rocker A Barrel Table A Chiffonier
How
to finish
Box
Furniture.
CHAPTER X
Home-made Gymnasium Apparatus for a Boy's Room
.170
A Chest-weight A Striking-bag A Striking-bag Platform
.
Chinning-bar
Hitch-and-Kick
Dumb-bells, Indian Clubs, and
Wand A Rack
for
Wand.
CHAPTER
XI
Cigar-box Toys and Gifts
178
Material Finish Cutting

An Express-wagon A Cart An Auto Dehvery-wagon
A Jack-in-the-Box A Round-seated Chair A Round Centertable A Dining-table A Square-seated Chair A Doll's Cradle
A Key-board A Corner Clock-shelf A Whisk-broom Holder
A Kitchen Match-box A Cottage Pipe-rack and Match-box
A Cottage Match-box Suggestions for Other Gifts.
Articles to give
away and
to Sell
^^
CHAPTER
XII
Clockvôrk Toys
189
How to prepare the Clockwork

Standard The Tent The Tent-poles
The Necessary
Materials
Merry-go-round^
The
CONTENTS
XV
PAGE
The
Horses
The
Riders
The
Sleighs
Platform
The
How
'
Shafts The
to operate the
Girl
and Boy
Merry-go-round
A Miniature Ferris Wheel

Other Animals for the Merry-go-round
How to make the Wheel
The Station Platform
The Standard
How to make the Cars The Car Axles How to mount the
The
The "Flying Airships"
Wheel
Steps to the Platform
How to increase the Speed of
The Cars
Standard
The Mast
the Clockwork.
CHAPTER
XIII
206
Brass Craft
Enlarging Designs by
Squares Piercing Polishing the Brass A Home-made Antique
Green Lacquer A Tea-pot Stand A Calendar Board A Pen
Tray A Lamp-shade Chain Fringe A Candle-shade Shadeholders A Candle-stick A " Paul Revere " Lantern.
The Tools and
Materials
Required
CHAPTER XIV
A
Telegraph Outfit
What Some Boys have AccomMarconi and his Experiments
Boy's Wireless
2x9
The Chicago Wireless Club Code Cards, Call

and
Amateur Commercial Stations Fundamental
Principles of Wireless Telegraphy The Aerial Masts for the
Aerial Insulating the Aerial Grounding the Aerial The Receiving Outfit Telephone Receivers Detectors A Microphone
Detector A Razor-blade Microphone Detector A Silicon Detector A Tuning-coil A Fixed Condenser A Potentiometer
The Transmitting Outfit An Induction-coil A Spark-gap
A Storage Battery Dry Batteries A Wireless Key A Knife
Switch A Good Arrangement
the Instruments Operation of
Instruments How to receive a Call How to make a Call
Codes A Good Way to learn a Code Electrical Measurements
Connection of Dry Batteries.
plished
Lists,
Aerogram Blanks
for
CHAPTER XV
Stunts for a Boys' Vaudeville Show
The
Strong
Best Kind of Stunts for a Boys'
Man Holding
out a Chair
256
Show
Sam
upon which a Boy
is
Dow,
the
Seated
CONTENTS
xvi
PAGB
The Dumb-bell Lifting Feat Juggling with Heavy Balls

BoneThe Professor
head
The Magical Mortar
The Wonderful
Hat Trick
Other Mortar Stunts
The Professor's Final Exhibition The Dummy Assistant
Falsetto, the Boy with a Wonderful
How to make the Ventriloquist's Doll
Voice
The Ventriloquist
Willie Shute, the Crack Shot of the World
The Targets
His Blunderbuss
A Program Board Admission Tickets.

CHAPTER XVI
Moving Pictures
270
The Wooden Base The

Cylinder The Clown and Ball Pictures The Circus Horse and
Hound Pictures How to operate this Toy The Automobile
The Revolving Wheels The Boxing-match.
A
Simple Moving-picture Machine
CHAPTER
XVII
A Snow Battleship
A New Idea for a Snow Fight The Central Station The Hull
A Torpedo Tube The Superstructure Deck The Conning-
279
The Forward Turret The Midship Turret The Mast

The Fighting-tops Rapid-fire Guns The Crosstree A
Coach-whip Pennant Paper Signal Flags A Union Jack A
National Ensign The Funnels The Ventilators The Mainbattery Guns The Secondary-battery Guns Arrangement of
Ammunition Stores Duties of the Captain A Naval Battle
Rules
the Battle A Flag of Truce The " Torpedo Boats
tower
"
for
Repairing the Ships after a Battle
Marksmanship.
CHAPTER
XVIII
Coaster and a Bob-sled
Coaster
How to
287
lay out the
Connecting the Runners The

Foot-bar Painting the Sled.
A
Bob-sled
The Sled
sled.
Runners
Sled Handles
The
for
Connecting the Runners

How to hinge the Seat to the
Four Runners
Plank Seat
The
Seat
Shoes
Check-chains The Steering Foot-bar The Steer Handle-bars A Seat Cushion Painting the Bob-
Stern Sled
ing Lines
The
Seats
Runners
CONTENTS
PART
xvii
II
SPRING AND SUMMER HANDICRAFT

CHAPTER XIX
PAGE
Model Aeroplanes
297
" Aeroplane Time Length of Model Aeroplane Flights Junior Aero Clubs Model Aeroplane Meets
Types of Machines Used Support of Aeroplane A Cardboard
Bird Glider A Simple Monoplane Model Center-pole Planes
A Glider Race An Easily Made Propeller Shaft and Shaft
Bearing Motive Power Winding up the Motor A French
Monoplane Model Center-pole Propeller Running-gear
Skids Planes Adjustment of Planes An Antoinette Monoplane Model Center-pole Propeller Wings Tail Fin
Rudder Running-gear A More Elaborate Monoplane Model
Binding Running-gear Propeller
Center-pole Material
Shaft and Bearing Motor Planes Bracings Rudder
Monoplane
Finish Flights
capable of Making Field for
"
Spring Activities
for
this
is
Experimenting.
CHAPTER XX
A
Boy's Auto-airship
327
The Framework
of the Balloon Barrel-hoop Ribs Rib-bands Stays The
Balloon Envelope Construction of the Car The Propeller A
Starting Platform A Push-off Platform The Rope Cable
Attachment of Car Windlass
Startpulling back the Airship
ing Platform An Auto-airship Club.
A
Safe and Practical "Boy-carrying" Airship
to
for
CHAPTER XXI
Camping Equipment
337
"A"
and Wall Tents

How to make an "A" Tent
The Ridge-pole and Uprights
Tent Stakes
Pitching a Tent
A Tent Ground-cloth A Pine Twig Mattress A Sleeping-bag
Other Equipment
An Electric Flash Lamp
Packing
A
Safety Match-box
A Duffle Box Food Supplies If you are to
Prices of
CONTENTS
xviii
Making an Open Fire The Backwoodsman's Camp

Fireplace Pothooks A Sheet-iron Camp Stove A Dutch Oven
A Camp Fireless Cooker To build a Fire Camp Furniture
A Camp Chair A Camp Table A Good Table Bench A Com-
PAGE
be Cook
fortable
Box Bench
Box Cupboards.
CHAPTER
XXII
A Home-made Punt
Material The Side Boards The Stem- and

Stern-pieces The Bottom Boards An Inner Keel Board Seats
Rowlocks Thole-pins The Painter Finishing.
351
Dimensions
CHAPTER
A Home-made
Sharpie
XXIII
.
.356
The Side-pieces The Stem-piece The Sternpiece The Stretcher To put the Pieces Together The Bottom
Boards The Skeg An Inner Keel Board Seats Finishing
the Bow The Painter An Easily Made Rudder The Rowlock
Blocks Rowlocks or Thole-pins Finishing.
Dimensions
CHAPTER XXIV
....
PUSHMOBILES AND OtHER HOME-MADE WAGONS
364
What a Pushmobile The Flushing

Pushmobile Club The Vanderbilt Cup Race Description of a
Pushmobile Race Organizing Pushmobile Clubs To construct
a Pushmobile The Iron Axles The Wooden Axles The
Wagon-bed The Steering-wheel The Hood The Radiatorfront The Seat Headlights Side Lamps A Clock-case Side
Lamp Paintings The License Number A Racing Pushmobile.
An Auto Wagon The Steering-wheel Another Steering-gear
The Seat A Trip Gong.
A Simple Push Wagon The Wagon-bed The Rear Wheels
The Axle for the Front Wheels.
Where
to get
Wheels
Is
CHAPTER XXV
Bird-houses
Designing the Bird-house and choosing a Location for It

Materials out of which to make Bird-houses
A Box Bird-house
379
CONTENTS
xix
Another Box Bird-house A Bird Tower A Tin-can Bird

Tower A Bird Castle A Bird Ark A Wall Bracket Bird Ark
A House and Swing A Hanging House A Shelter.
PAGE
CHAPTER XXVI
Houses for Pets
389
Dog-house
A Rabbit-hutch Galvanized Poultry-netting,
Twist Wire Cloth, and Wire Cloth for Fronts of Hutches and Cages
A Breeding Hutch A Two-story Rabbit-hutch A Rabbit
Yard
A Cage for White Rats An Elevated "Race-track"
Drinking Receptacles
Painting
Floor Covering
A Pigeon-
cote.
CHAPTER XXVH
A
Castle Club-house and Home-made Armor

Material
The
The Floor
Walls To cut
Framework
....
404
The Corner
Openings
The
Joists
Boarding up the
the
the Roof Leaks The Battlement Secret Treasure
Vaults The Drawbridge To counterbalance the Drawbridge
A Windlass A Moat.
Home-made Armor A Helmet A Shield A Sword.
Turrets
Roof
If
CHAPTER XXVni
A
Boys'
Band of Home-made Instruments
416
Materials out of which to make the

Imitation Instruments A Cornet A Trombone A Bass Horn
A Fife A Bass Drum Cymbals The Drum-stick Snaredrums The Drum Major A Splendid "Bearskin" Cap The
Drum Major's Staff The Major's Whistle Uniforms Organizing a Band How the Band
be useful in the Home Circus,
Vaudeville, and Other Shows A Boy Scout Band.
The Neighborhood Parade
will
Index
427
LIST OF
HALF-TONE ILLUSTRATIONS
(In addition to
more than
five
hundred
PART
A
Boy Craftsman
in his
text illustrations.)
Workshop
Frontispiece
Factory of the Juvenile Manufacturing Co.
.........
......
FACING PAGE
A
A
Basement Workshop
Corner of the Author's
Fig. 108.
Fig. 109.
no
Home Workroom
Whisk-Broom Holder
Clock-Shelf
104
and in.
Necktie-Racks
1 2-1 14.
Book-Racks
Figs.
Figs. 22 and 123.
Tabourets
1
Plant Stand
Fig. 124
I
Figs,
Fig. 206
Footstool
and 132. Magazine-Racks
Music-Cabinet
Umbrella-Stand
A Roman Chair
A Mission Chair
A Mission Writing-Desk
An Electric Lamp
Construct Your Chest-Weights First
Fig. 210
Where to
Fig. 125
Figs. 13
Fig- 133
Fig. 134
Fig. 139
Fig. 140
Fig. 141
Fig. 142
Hang
the Striking-Bag
The Doorway Chinning-Bar Easily Put Up

Fig. 223 An Express-Wagon
Fig. 224 A Cart
Figs 225 and 226. Two Views of an Auto Delivery-Wagon "
Fig. 228 A Jack-in-the-Box
Fig. 229 The Skeleton of the Jack-in-the-Box
....
'^
Fig. 232
Fig. 233
Fig. 234
124
128
170
is
Fig. 230
no
Fig. 215
Fig. 231
86
A Round-Seated Chair
A Round Center-Table
A Dining-Table
A Square-Seated Chair
A Doll's Cradle
178
180
182-183
LIST OF HALF-TONE ILLUSTRATIONS
XXll
A Key-Board
Fig. 239. A Corner Clock-Shelf
Fig. 240. A Whisk-Broom Holder
Fig. 241. A Kitchen Match-Box
Fig. 242. A Cottage Pipe-Rack and Match-Box
Fig. 253. A Merry-Go-Round
Fig. 254. A Clockwork Motor
Fig. 255. A Ferris Wheel
Fig. 256. A Flying Airship
Fig. 360. The " Torpedo-boats
Furnish the Only Means
Fig. 238.
FACING PAGE
184
'
at Close
of Attack
Range
280
PART
II
Aero Club of the Chicago Calumet High School

A Model Aeroplane Meet of the Calumet Aero Club
Some Good Forms of Model Aeroplanes
Wall Tent, Eight Feet by Ten Feet, with Fly
Flapjacks for
190
297
J
302
340
Two
Some of the Competing Cars in the Flushing Pushmobile Club Races

Winning Car in the Vanderbilt Cup Race
At the Start Off. A Flushing Pushmobile Club Race}
Fig. 483
A Bird Tower
364
A Bird Castle
Fig. 485 A Bird Ark
Fig. 486 A House and Swing
Fig. 506 The Castle Club-House
Fig. 515 A Boy Knight with His Home-Made Armor
Fig. 530 The Cornet
Fig. 531 The Trombone I
Fig. 532 The Bass Horn
Fig. 484
....
....
.
366
382
404
412
416
PART
Autumn and^\îitcr
Handicraft
CHAPTER
THE HOME WORKSHOP
With
the
the
new
coming
autumn and the beginning
of
school year, the
have enjoyed
all
summer
majority of you
the
freedom
of
boys
outdoor
of
who
life
probably pick up your books with a feeling of regret
must knuckle down again to studies. But

as soon as you meet all the boys and get to talking
over last year's good times, your old school enthusiasm returns then when some one proposes something
interesting to do, you at once fall into line with the
other fellows in offering suggestions, and the chances
are that before the day is over you are ready to admit
that you
that school
of a
life
is
pretty
day or so football
is
good
after
all.
In the course
under way, and possibly plans
have developed for an athletic club and literary society,

while
all
groups
of
together
schemes have been undertaken by

boys who have found that they can work
sorts of
congenially,
mapped out
a lot
of
and very
likely
individual
work
probably more
boy
each
to
do.
than
These
anything
outside
interests
else
keep school from becoming monotonous.
to
help
has
"
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
To
be able to
your own room, construct apparatus for a
for
and
prepare
neighborhood
"
just a
little
made;
shows
"
properties
to be able to
make
pieces of
Christmas
your friends and relatives
in
about doing things in general

of
is
it
to use
will
build wagons,
be necessary for you to
handicraft which
and
birthday gifts
handy
an accomplishment
short, to be
you boys should
but before you can expect to do

well
or
than those the other fellows have
better
which every one
gym
for school
"
be able to
to
"
model aeroplanes, and other things
be presentable as
will
"
various
the
boats, sleds, kites,
to
up a club-room or make furniture
fix
all
know
This
attain;
these things
of
not only
how
carpenters' tools properly, but also
about the v/ork in the right way.
to
strive
is
how
to
go
the author's
reason for beginning this book of handicraft for you
upon manual
with instructions
training.
Unless you have a workshop, or

large
will
enough
in
which
to set
at
least
a space
up a work bench, you
be handicapped for any kind of
home
carpentry,
good results it is necessary to have something strong and solid to work upon and a vise which
for to get
will
attic,
hold your pieces of work firmly.

a spare room, the
wood
gest possibilities for fitting
The basement,
shed, and the barn sug-
up a good workshop, but
in
Selecting a Suitable Place there are several important
things to consider.
it
The shop should have good
light,
should be dry, to prevent your stock from getting wet
Basement Workshop.
THE HOME WORKSHOP

and your
from rusting, and
tools
should be located
it
conveniently, so that material can easily be carried in
enough away from the living-room and

bedrooms so that your hammering will not disturb
any one. Of course, some of you will have no choice
in the matter and will have to take any place you can
and
and
out,
get,
but in this case
far
make
the best of
the conditions
for the time being and perhaps something better will

If you locate your shop in the baseturn up later on.
ment or attic, it will be a good idea to partition off
a space as large as
you
need and provide a door
will
with a padlock which can be locked
described on page 149 and
to
175.
If
there isn't any
Gas or Electric Light within the space

off, it
ber tubing from
2),
so
over
nearest
the
electric fixture (see
to
partitioned
be a good plan to run a piece of rub-
will also
from an
The
is
building of a partition
by Figs. 172
keep things
by younger hands.
from being tampered with

illustrated
to
gas-jet,
light
when
drop-cord
photograph opposite page
a point near the
you can have
or a
end
left
of
your bench,
the days are dark or when-
ever you wish to work in the evening.
Cabinet-made
large stores
Benches can be bought at any of the
where
tools
$50, but one of these will
from $7.50 to
serve your purposes no better
are
sold,
for
than the old-fashioned
Home-made Bench
ter shop.
One
to be
of these
found
in
almost every carpen-
can be made by any boy, out
of
The well-made
or whitewood.
cypress,
pine,
benches have maple tops, but
it is
cabinet
not necessary to go to
the expense of buying maple for your bench, as softer

material will do just as well.
or 2-inch stock
may
4-by-4-inch stock
" 2-by-4's "
i-inch,
i;|-inch,
be used for the top, 2-by-4-inch stuff
and i-inch boards
for the framework,

rails
Dressed
is
for the aprons
and
bench
but
often used for
are plenty heavy
legs,
enough and generally
easier
to get.
shows
Figure
Work
feet
Solid
Bench, 2 feet 8 inches high, with a top 5

This is a good size to
long and 24 inches wide.
make your bench

would
like to
if
have
you are crowded

it
longer,
it is
for room.
you
If
a simple matter to add
whatever you wish to the lengths given for the different

pieces,
you,
and
it is
if
you find that
it
is
going to be too high for
easy enough to saw off the legs before making
shows the framework with the

ferent members lettered.
Cut the four legs
2
the vise.
Figure
dif-
feet
8 inches long, less the thickness of the crosspieces

(if inches) and the top, the 2-by-4-inch crosspieces
22-inches
long, the
end
rails
B
B
22 inches long by
inches wide, and the front and back
rails
D4
feet
3f
long
by 3f inches wide.
Spike crosspieces B to the tops
of the legs, and rails C to the sides 8 inches from the
lower ends; then stand the frames thus formed on end
and connect them by means of rails D.
Cut a front
and a rear apron {E, Fig. 2) 5 feet long, out of lo-inch
Fig.
FiG.
I.
a Solid Work Bench-
2.
Detail of Framework.
5

boards,
saw
off the
ends on the diagonal as shown, and
then either nail or screw them to the bench legs, placing

them with their top edges even with the top of crosspieces
and with
their
ends projecting the same
tance beyond the ends of the bench framework.
bench top may be made
The
of three pieces 8 inches wide, or

of
CBLOCKOUT-
SOCKET.
dis-
BACK OF- LEG

IF SCREW-IS
NOT- THREADED
AS- FAR -BACK
any combinawidths
tion
of
that
will
up a
total of
inches,
make
24
and these
pieces should be
fastened to cross-
pieces
with
screws. Counter-
sink
Fig.
Figs. 3-5.
Fig.
4.
Details of the Bench-vise.
bench by
fitting pieces
aprons, as
shown
Figures
3.
3, 4,
in Fig.
and
The Bench-vise.
of a piece of
of
the
heads.
screw-
Finish
the ends of the
lo-inch board between the
i.
show the details for making

Cut \}a^ jaw about 31 inches long out
5
J-inch or 2-inch stuff 6 inches wide, and
the sliding strip 3 inches wide and 14 inches long out

of a
-inch board,
and bore ten
-|-inch holes
through the
\ inch on centers and staggered as

shown. There are several ways of fastening the sliding
strip to the jaw, two of which are shown in Figs. 3 and 4.
sliding strip about
THE HOME WORKSHOP
nailing the jaw to the end of the strip, as in Fig.
By
3,
is
it
necessary to mortise the bench leg for
slide through, while
the jaw, as in Fig.

of the leg.
If
4,
you
if
it
to
set the strip into the side of
a pocket
must be
you mortise the
leg,
built
on
make
to the side
the mortise
about J inch larger all around than the strip, so there

will be plenty of clearance, and locate the bottom of it 3
or 4 inches above the floor.
strip to the jaw, slip the
After fastening the sliding
end through the mortise
or
through the pocket, push the jaw up against the apron
and drive a couple
of the bench,
hold
4),
it
to
and wooden handle (Fig.

almost any hardware store for 50
Iron Bench-screw, socket
can be bought at
cents.
circle
through
temporarily in place.
it
An
of nails
If this
screw
i^ inches in
J inches in diameter, describe a

diameter on the face of the jaw, 8
is
inches below the bench top, and then bore a hole of the
same diameter through the jaw, the apron, and the bench" Cutting Large Holes," page 142).
With a chisel
enlarge the hole on the inside face of the leg (you had
better turn the bench over upon its side to do this) so
leg (see
the iron socket will set into the leg flush with the surface
then, after screwing the socket to the leg, trim the
hole in the jaw so the collar on the handle end of the
screw
place.
and screw the plate in

the bench-screws are made to go through
will set flat against the jaw,
Some
of
heavier stuff than
we have used
for the legs,
and
their
threads stop within 3 or 4 inches of the collar plate
in
becomes necessary to set the socket into an

extra block of wood (Fig. 5) and to spike this block to the
back of the leg; otherwise, the jaw would not close entirely.
this case
it
Trim
the top of the jaw even with the bench top and
off
i
and 4), then remove the
Cut a peg to fit in the holes in the
sliding strip, and whenever you use the vise, stick this peg
into the proper hole to keep the bottom of the jaw from
pushing in farther than the upper portion the jaw must
bevel the outer edge (Figs,
temporary
nails.
be kept vertical in order to
make
grip a piece of
it
wood
squarely.
Bore several rows of f-inch holes through the front

apron, as
shown
This peg
may
in Fig.
i,
and cut
peg
to
fit
in
them.
be adjusted to support the end of any
length of board placed in the vise.
Never clamp screws,
nails,
or other pieces of metal in
your vise without placing them

wood, as they
will cut
first
up the face
between blocks
of
jaw and bench
of the
apron and soon make the vise unfit to hold your nice
work.
An
It is
good plan
Iron Vise for metal
to have
work
one
of these
chased for from 50 cents to $1 and
may
the right end of your bench (Figs,
and
can be pur-
be screwed to
6).
Figure 6 shows
A Work
simple to
Bench with Tool Drawers, which
make
and
rails of
slide into the
ends
the framework (Fig.
almost as
The drawers
as the one just described.
are grocery boxes
on the upper
is
of the
7).
bench
The bench
Fig. 6.
_ A Work Bench
YiQ,
7.
Detail
^vith
of
Tool Drawers.
Framework.
lO
illustrated
6 feet long, 24 inches wide, and 2 feet 8
is
inches high, but as mentioned before you

these dimensions to suit your conditions, and
to
make
if
you prefer
a cabinet for your tools instead of keeping
may
drawers
in the bench, the
Figure
may change
them
be used to hold supplies.
shows the framework
Make
of the bench.
the end frames as described for the other bench, fasten
them 4 feet 2 inches apart with the front and back rails
D, and then cut the upper rails
which form the
drawer slides and nail them to the legs 8 inches below
crosspieces B.
If
you cannot find boxes
of the
proper
size for
The Tool Drawers, larger boxes may be cut down, or you

can build up drawers to
removable
fit.
Provide the drawers with
trays,
such as are described for
the tool-chest
shown
Nail two guide
bottom
of the
Fig.
8. Box
Tool Drawer.
(77,
nail
Fig.
Fig. 43,
strips (G,
Fig. 8)
wooden handle
two striking blocks

7)
to
page
31.
to the
drawers and fasten an iron
drawer-pull or a
Then
in
to the front.
to the
back
prevent the drawers from
pulling out of the bench, and two cross-
pieces {F) in the proper places to stop the drawers
when
they have been pushed in flush with the ends of the

bench.
Figure 6 shows
Tool Tray recessed in the bench top
ment, as
it
a good arrange-
provides a place to lay tools while working.
This top may be made by placing a 12-inch plank along
THE HOME WORKSHOP
II
the front of the top, an 8-inch board back of
piece of 2-by-4 back of that again
(Fig.
9),
and a
it,
and then
blocking out the ends of the
board flush with the top
To finish off
the planking.
the ends of the bench,

strips
of
fit
in
around the drawers.
Fig. 9
Plan for a Bench
Before adjustable benchstops were put
Top
with
Tool Tray.
upon the market, a carpenter had
to devise
various makeshifts for shoving work against for planing
and
for other operations,
use,
to
am going
to
and as many
show you
of these are
a few of the
still in
good forms
of
Home-made Bench-stops, so in case it is not convenient

buy an iron stop, you can equip your bench with one
Fig. II
Fig. 12.
Fig. 10.
Figs. 10-14.
of these.
strip
of
The
stop
Home-made Bench-stops.
shown
wood, which
is
in Fig. 10 consists of a short
screwed in place to the bench
12
and the screw-heads are countersunk
top,
your edge
for
By screwing
tools.
as a protection
the strip in place,
it is
removed when you wish to have the bench top

Figure 1 1 shows a block with a " V " notch cut in
This will hold the ends of narrow pieces of work.
easily
clear.
it.
Screw stops
(Fig.
12) are a favorite form, as they are
easily adjusted to a required height
by giving them a few
The peg
turns with a screw-driver.
stops
shown
in Fig.
13 have a big advantage in the fact that they are quickly

removed. Bore two f -inch holes through the bench, cut
them so they may be adjusted to

the proper heights for different pieces of work, and drive
in a hammer wedge, or a wooden wedge, at the side of the
pegs to hold them in position. The stop shown in Fig.
14 is similar to that shown in Fig. 10, except that it is
the pegs to
fit
loosely in
held in place with bolts instead of screws.
Get two f-inch carriage-bolts about 4

inches long, and cut several strips of
wood about
8 inches long and of different
Bore two |-inch
thicknesses.
holes, 5
inches apart, through the bench top and

Fig. 15.
JUS a
An
enc
-s
Ad-
through the
op.
|-]^J-Q^g]^^
heads.
This stop
changed
15
to suit
is
strips for the bolts to
may
be inter-
of different thicknesses.
Figure
handy, as the strips
work
drop
^^^ countcrsink for the bolt-
shows
An Adjustable Bench-stop which
pm
in the center of this stop
is
50 cents. The
released by giving the
retails for
THE HOME WORKSHOP

screw marked
may
13
a few turns with a screw-driver, and
be set to the proper height for your work and
dropped flush with the plate when not
in use.
Mortise
the bench top for the stop, and set the plate flush with
the top.
The
other shop equipment
ing chapter.
is
described in the follow-
Better
may be
results
obtained with a few tools of
the best quality than with an entire outfit of cheaper
grade.
Remember
that, boys,
when
Purchasing Tools, and be sure that you get those
by
reliable
manufacturers instead of the toy variety, for
though they
will
wearing qualities
run.
You
made
will
will find
able form of
work
considerably more, their better
cost
make them cheaper
in the long
new-fangled tools for every conceiv-
in the
modern carpenter
not imagine for a minute that
it
is
shop, but do
necessary to have
these in order to perform the operations for which they

are especially
made.
good mechanic can complete
almost any kind of a job with a handful* of

special tools
do the work so very much quicker that they
are adopted as time-saving devices,
many
but
tools,
and usually
are
worth
times their cost in a large shop.
Unless you have received instruction

ing, the variety of styles
made may make
and
sizes in
manual trainwhich tools are
in
the selection of an outfit difficult
to provide
14
so
TOOLS AND HOME-MADE SHOP EQUIPMENT
A Handy
and
15
Guide for Purchasing, the more desirable forms
sizes of all the tools
which an amateur
is
ever likely
have been described and illustrated upon the
to require
following pages.
and brace,
"
hammer, saw, plane, chisel, jack-knife,

screw-driver and square are mentioned
hatchet,
The Boy Craftsman
"
at the start,
you can-
Small Outfit which a boy will find sufficient for any
kind of ordinary carpentry.
an important
tool
for general use.

to
If
add to them as soon as you
Figure 16 shows illustrations of
can.
more
in
as
The Principal Tools which a boy requires.

not afford
bit
add
Every
and one which you
As your money
tool in this outfit is

will find necessary
permits, you will wish
to these tools several sizes of chisels
and
bits,
one
or two saws, and such other tools as are used in advanced

wôrk,
and
in this
way you can
increase your outfit, until
before long you will have a fairly complete set of tools

of
which you may be proud.

First of
all,
Jack-knife.
you
By
will
need a good
this is not
meant a four-blade pocket-
knife with a polished pearl handle, but just a

knife, strongly
made, and having blades
tempered so they
will
hold an edge.
common
of steel properly
two-blade knife
with wooden handle similar to that shown in Fig. 16

a desirable form for all-round work, and
medium-priced knife with blades

steel.
of a
is
made
is
in a
good quality
of
i6
For general use
Hatchet with a claw (Fig. i6)
one without, as
it
may
Fig.
6.
is
to be preferred to
be used for withdrawing nails as
A Small Tool
Outfit.
showing desirable forms and sizes. Additional tools may

be selected from those shown and described upon the following pages, as your money
permits and your work requires their use.
The most important
tools,
well as driving them.

of
medium weight and
In buying a hatchet, select one

see that
it
balances nicely
when

you swing
to
for,
it,
handle and
This
lessly.
it is cumbersome
arm
hand and
muscles need-
unevenly balanced,
if
out the
tires
a point also to be looked out for in buying
is
Get a medium-sized claw hammer, either
Hammer.
with a bell face (Fig. 16) or a plain face,
matter which, and
An
it
to loosen
it
does not
possible get one with the head
if
fastened on with patent-lock wedges which

possible for
17
and
make
im-
it
fly off.
ordinary
Tack Hammer
handy
is
working
for
in small corners,
but can easily be dispensed with for ordinary work.
much more
hammer
useful
shown
Crate Opener
is
in Fig.
the
1 7,
which
is
handy not only
for prying boxes apart, but also for driving and withdraw-
ing tacks and small

small
jobs,
and
nails.
con-
its
It
venient size
makes
sible to carry
it
it
pos-
about in
may
be used for numerous
^^
m
f^JG.
one's hip pocket.
Nail-set
is
y\g. 18.
required
Fig. 17.
for driving nail-heads ber
Fig. 18.
low the surface of work
before finishing
is
it.
cut iron nail
not as satisfactory as the
Fig. 16.
You
will find
it
-Crate Opener.
Wooden. Mallet.
may
be used, but
regular nail-set
handy
for finishing-nails^ the other for

It is
17
to
have two
commoii
shown
sizes,
it
in
one
nails.
advisable to have
Wooden Mallet
(Fig.
18) for
mortising and cutting
i8
where
it is
use of a
This
is
necessary to drive the chisel or gouge, as the
hammer soon
also
The Cross-cut Saw (Fig.

grain of wood.
teeth
the end of the handle.
and other
halved, mortise- and- tenon,
down
spHts
useful for knocking together the members
It will
made
i6) is
of
joints.
to cut across the
also cut with the grain, but as the
work is
you should add a
are not properly prepared for rippmg, the
When money
slower to do.
permits,
22-inch
Rip-saw to your
outfit.
Compass-saw (Fig.
i6)
The
is made
especially for cutting
curves, the teeth being filed to cut with as well as across
the grain, and

finer
it
handy
is
made
would imply, and used

often
made
to
fit
fits
in
di
for various other small jobs.
This
in a
want
will
the
name
handle similar to that of the
common form
pad, as shown in Fig.
saws which you
is
for cutting keyholes as the
compass-saw, but the more
which
sawing thin wood.
saw which you may prefer to the compass-saw
Keyhole-saw,
is
for
to
add
19.
the one
Other forms
your
to
is
outfit as
of
soon
as possible are the
Back-saw, shown in Fig. 59, a saw made with fine teeth

one with fourteen teeth to the inch) and intended
(get
for very fine cutting
cutting tenons,
etc.,
such
as for
making
miter-joints,
and either a
Coping-saw or Bracket-saw (Figs. 20 and 21) for saw^ See notes regarding the teeth of the Cross-cut
page 21 of " The Boy Craftsman.'"
Saw
and the Rip-saw on
/
ing very thin wood, such as that of cigar boxes.
own
latter for
you
Scroll-saw,
iron
If
19
will
it
answer the purposes
of both of the
shop use.
Jack-plane (Fig. 16) fitted with a smoathing-plane

is
to be preferred to a smoothing-plane,
must be chosen, for

(bottom face) makes
its
long sole
it
easier to
if
one plane
plane up a surface without hollowing
it.
This plane, thus equipped,
may be used
for both reducing
thicknesses of
material
moving undressed
purpose
of
the
and
surfaces
re-
(the
jack-plane),
as
up surfaces true
well as planing
Fig. 19.
and smooth
(the
purpose of the
The
smoothing-plane).
plane iron has
its
jack-
cutting edge
slightly rounded, instead of
Fig.
Keyhole-saw.
Coping-saw.
21. Bracket-saw.
19.
Fig. 20.
Fig.
being ground straight across
like the
smoothing-plane iron, in order to
out the
wood and thus reduce thicknesses
will readily see that
it
make
it
gouge
quickly, so you
cannot be expected to straighten up
Of course you can buy the two irons and make

the plane the equivalent of a jack- and a smoothing-plane.
The Stanley " Bailey " adjustable iron plane shown in
a surface.
the illustration
is
a better form to purchase than the old-
fashioned plane with a

adjusted.
The No.
wooden
stock, as
size (Fig.
16) is
it
is
so easily
14 inches long
20
As soon
and about the right length.
as
you can do
so,
buy a
Smoothing-plane in addition to the jack-plane, for the
two planes
will
save you a considerable
Fore-plane
the
has an
8-inch
sole,
and
purpose of removing the high
jack-plane
and
the
straightening
made long
is
places
left
surface
many
may
it
Among
by the amateur.
by
before
smoothing up with the smoothing-plane, but

easily be dispensed with
of ad-
The
justment of the cutting irons.
for the
amount
the
other forms of planes upon the market, you will
find a
making
Rabbet-plane (Fig. 22), useful in cabinet
for
rabbeting your work (Fig. 75, page 59

the plane-iron,
or cutter^ can be adjusted to any
desired width of ra bbet up
inches),
Fig. 22.
Rabbet-plane.
to
i^
and the
Dado-plane
made
for
59).
As
(Fig.
which
23),
grooving (Fig.
the
75,
is
page
plane-stock of
the
dado-plane must be of the same size

as the cutter,
Fig. 23.
Dado-plane.
which you
will
likely wish to
course,
if
you
it is
necessary to select
q^c having the width
have the greatest need, for you
will
purchase more than one dado-plane.

live
near a
mill,
you can get
rabbeting and grooving done there, and
you
of cutter for
to bother with
it,
it
will
all
of
not
Of
your
hardly pay
or to purchase these tools.

It is
a good plan to invest in a
Ratchet-brace
in so
many
when buying
a bit-stock, as
when boring
makes
it
can be used
The
possible to so set the brace
a hole or driving a screw in a corner
or close to something w^hich prevents a
handle
it
places where an ordinary brace cannot.
ratchet arrangement
that,
21
may be worked back and
full
forth.
sweep, the
Buy
a brace
with at least an 8-inch sweep; a shorter
sweep than
this
does not give sufficient
leverage.
|-inch and a f-inch auger-bit are in-
cluded
Of
among
course,
it
shown
the tools
is
in Fig. 16.
often necessary to bore
holes of other sizes, and

Auger-bits J inch,
I
as
inch,
f inch, and
inch in size should be added to these
you
find
need of them.
Bits are
made
and the number
of six-
stamped upon the shank.
Fig-
in Y^-inch sizes,
Fig. 24.
sive-bit.
teenths
is
25.
Wood
Drill Bit.
ure 24 shows an
Expansive-bit, the small size of
two cutters
Fig.
one adjustable
which
is
to bore holes
provided with
ranging from
J inch to |- inch and the other from |- inch to i^ inches

and the large size with two cutters
one boring holes
from I" inch to if inches, the other from if inches to 3
inches.
is
By having one
of the large sizes of these bits
it
not necessary to buy auger-bits larger than f inch.

is very convenient for boring large holes, but
This tool
22
is
not required, as holes larger than
may
inch in diameter
be cut as described on page 142 and illustrated in
Figure 25 shows a
Fig. 156.
Wood
Drill Bit.
This
is
from -^ inch (No.
2) to
have an automatic
drill
made
in g^-inch sizes,
|| inch (No. 14). Unless you

a few of these will be required
for drilling holes for screws in hard
very delicate tools and
running
They
wood.
"twist off " very easily,
are
and must
not be removed from a hole by reversing the brace, but
by continuing
on the head
loosened
to turn
it
in the
same direction, pulling up

same time until it has
of the brace at the
itself.
Brad-awls are the simplest and cheapest tools manu-
(Fig. 16).
making very small holes

They are sold in various
which
be useful.
factured for
will
for nails
sizes,
and screws
one or two
of
Scratch-awl differs from a brad-awl in the end, which

is
pointed instead of chisel-shaped.
It is
used for mark-
ing work, but a jack-knife will serve the purpose just as

well.
Hand Gimlet
(Fig. 16)
is
also
handy
for boring small
holes.
For countersinking screw-heads below the surface

piece of wood you should have a
Rose Countersink Bit to
This
is
fit
in
your brace (Fig.
of a
16).
used after a screw hole has been bored, and
bevels off the edge of the hole
head drop below the surface.
enough
'
to let the screw-
An Automatic
saver (Fig. 26).
screws and
It is
With
in
size
come
used largely for drilling holes for
finishing-nails,
from
and
especially
is
handy
for
where even a ratchet-brace cannot be
drilling in places
used.
convenience and time
Drill is a great
this tool is furnished eight drills,
inch to
-^^
varying
which
inch,
either in the handle or in an extra
box.
handier tool than
this,
costing about twice as much,
may
be
s/zde to
(Fig.
27).
withdraw by
set to drive or
moving a small
is
Screw-driver
Spiral-ratchet
This
though
one end or the
other of a slot on the side, or the spiral
may be locked
driver
make
to
a ratchet screw-
by giving the milled
the slide a half turn.
shell just
below
Three screw-drivers
of different sizes are included with this
and a chuck
tool,
to hold drills, together
with eight sizes of

for a
drills,
may
Fig. 27.
Fig. 26.
Spiral-
Auto-
ratchet
matic
Screw-
Drill.
driver.
be purchased
small additional amount, which
serve the double purpose of drill
the spiral-ratchet screws-driver
makes
this
and screw-driver.
may
tool
But
easily be dispensed
if you have an ordinary 6-inch

Hand Screw-driver and a medium-sized
with
Screw-driver Bit (Fig. 16).
A
16.
f-inch chisel
This
is
size will
included in the outfit
be found best for a
soon require a smaller chisel
one
shown
starter.
in Fig.
You
will
about \ inch wide,
24
and when you have advanced with your work you
will
find that at least five
Firmer Chisels, the kind made for ordinary light work,
sizes
be necessary.
building,
you
Framing
for this
will
^ inch, f inch, and i inch,
For any very heavy work, such as outside
inch, | inch,
will also require a
or Mortising Chisel,
purpose
i^ inches
which
or
i|-
is
made stronger
Some
inches wide.
upon the face edges of the

make them handy for getting into corners (Fig. 28).
For
cutting curved grooves and curved
firmer chisels are beveled
blade to
surfaces a
Gouge
is
is
will
Fig. 29.
Fig. 30.
Beveled
Gouge.
Cold-
Chisel,
chisel.
except that
simi-
is
its
blade
curved instead of straight (Fig.
29).
Fig. 28.
This
required.
lar to a chisel
|-inch and a J-inch
answer most purposes.
gouge
Chisel
and gouge handles are rounded on

the ends for hand use (Fig. 29), but
for heavier work,
where a mallet
is
necessary, they should be protected by a leather cap

(Fig. 16) or a metal ferrule (Fig. 28), to
from
splitting.
handle (Fig. 29)

but those
is
is
fits
into the
strong enough for hand use (^paring),
made with
sockets for the handles to
(Fig. 28) are better for mortising
driving
keep the wood
The chisel or gouge which
necessary.
fit
into
and other work where

Cold-chisel (Fig. 30)
and
is
good
you can do
often needed for cutting metal
is
you
tool for
narrow piece
surfaces.
to
add
to
your
outfit
when
so.
Draw-knife (Fig. 31)
fully,
25
It
of
wood
in thickness
must be used
however, as
it
handy
is
for quickly
and
reducing a
for cutting
curved
care-
will follow
wood
to split off more than
the grain of a piece of
and
is
in
apt
is
desired,
as
is
paring with a
danger
the
Spoke-shave (Fig. 32)

surface after
it
is
Fig. 32.
hatchet.
Spoke-shave.
used to smooth up a curved
has been roughly cut with a draw-knife,

hatchet, or chisel, just as the smooth-
ing-plane
is
used to smooth up a
straight surface.
pensive tool and

to
This
will
may
not an ex-
be of more use
you than a draw-knife
is
buy
Half-round Wood-file
it first.
(Fig.
be used for smoothing up
sorts of irregular surfaces
and
is
16)
all
the
best kind to purchase for a small outFig. 33.
Five Handy
Forms
in Fig.
fit
of Files.
'^^2)-
of tools.
The
Handiest Forms of Files are shown
The wood-rasp
is
a very coarse
file
for
wood
working, while the rattailfile, the slim taper file, and the
flat metalfile are
for metal work.
made with
and are intended

must not be used upon
finer teeth
wood-file
26
metal,
as
it
not
is
made
for cutting
surfaces
harder
than wood.
For laying out work a

Two-foot Folding Rule (Fig. i6)
is
a try-square or a carpenter s square
and either
required,
is
necessary for lay-
ing out lines at right angles to another line or to the
edge
of
a piece
of
work, for testing corners to see
whether or not they are square, and for testing surfaces

for irregularities.
The
writer prefers a
Try-square with a mitered handle (Fig.
45 degrees
may
be laid out with
it.
The
i6), as lines at
large size of
Carpenter's Steel Square has a body (the long end) 24
inches long and a tongue (the short end) 18 inches long;
but a smaller size with a body 18

inches long and tongue 12 inches
long (Fig. 16)
to
buy and
your pur-
will serve
pose just as well and
will
be cheaper
lighter to handle.
Bevel (Fig. 34)
is
handy
tool
for laying out angles other than 45 degrees, for laying out bevels,
and for
re-
producing angles upon several pieces

Fig. 34.
Bevel.
work.
It is like
instead of being fastened rigid
You
it
can easily do without
will
it
is
a try-square, only
made
adjustable.
this tool for ordinary work,
but
be useful when you get into advanced work.
Marking-gauge (Fig. 16) consists of a block of wood
(the head) through
which
slides a
graduated stick (the
27
bar) with a point (the spur) near one end (see Fig. 68,
page
The head may be
52).
set to
any desired distance
from the spur, then by placing the head against the edge
work and pushing the spur along the surcan be scratched which will be exactly
of a piece of
face,
line
and
parallel to
The
ordinary
shown
in
from the edge.
at the required distance
marking-gauge has only one spur; that
Fig. 68 has two spurs,
is
what
mortise-gauge (see "Gauging," page 52),
is
and
known
as a
is
the better form to buy.
Wing Dividers (Fig. 35) come in handy for a

number of operations, but are used principally
for describing circles and laying off measureThe thumb-screws make it possible to
ments.
Fig. 35.
adjust the dividers very accurately to any desired
of these
you may use a
through
it,
be
stick with a couple of nails driven
or a piece of cardboard with a pencil
pushed through
may
Until you can get a pair
measurement.
laid off
for
it,
Wing
Dividers.
a compass, and
by means
and pin
measurements
of a ritle, a straight-edge (a
stick with a straight edge), or a piece of paper.^

^'
'cgg;
Fig. 36.
A
tion
Â
Level (Fig. 36)

to
help
the
is
Spirit Level.
necessary in building construc-
mechanic get
his
work plumb and
simple method for dividing a distance into a number of equal spaces by
means of a
rule
and pencil
is
shown upon page 46 of
"
The Boy Craftsman."
28
but
level,
useless
is
it
the shop unless you
in
up whatever your piece

But a
work
of
rests
upon
level
before
testing.^
handy for getting approxicheap enough so every boy can own one.
A tool with which ten different opera-
Pocket Level (Fig.
mate levels and
^
Fig.
>3 =^
37.
is
is
'^'j')
tions can be performed
Odd-jobs
Pocket
the
Level.
shown
in
three operations
is
the
Fig. 38.
Besides
indicated
illustration,
it
may be
employed as
marking-
in
the
gauge, a mortise-gauge,
depth-gauge,
square,
Odd-jobs.
Fig. 38.
with the
which
a
scratch-awl,
(a
tool).
this tool
handy one
try-
T-square,
and a rule
comes
12-inch ruler
The many purposes for

may be used make it
to carry about for
"odd
jobs."
Pair of Cutting Pliers (Fig. 16) will
serve as pincers and nippers.
Besides
these you will often be in need of a
Wrench
(Fig. 39) for tightening
and
Fig. 39-
- Wrench,
loosening nuts, and other operations; this will be a good

addition to
^
page
make
satisfactory
153.
to
your
outfit
when you can
home-made plumb-board
for large
work
afford
is
it.
described on

For holding together glued-up work
29
until the glue
has
set a pair of
Wood Handscrews
are handy, as are also
(Fig. 40)
a pair of
Cabinet-maker's Clamps
glued-up pieces
(Fig.
41) for
holding wide
but you can dispense with
^ H
both of these by providing yourself with

several
Home-made Clamps of different lengths

similar to those shown in Fig. 42.
These
consist of two strips with two blocks of
wood A and B screwed to them 4 or 5
Fig. 40.
Wood
Handscrews.
inches farther apart than the width of the glued-up piece

of
^^^
P
^P^^
Fig. 41.
Cabinet- maker
^^^"^P^*
^s
work.
edge
Taper
of blocks
A, but
its
Fig. 42.
leave
that of blocks
B Square.
The
work
upon the
strips
is
laid
with one edge against blocks B, then a strip

against
inner
the
other edge for
2i
filler,
and a pair
is
of
placed
wedges
Home-made Clamps for Holding Glued-up Work.
30
with one edge square and the other cut to
on the edge
of blocks
are driven in
fit
the taper
between the
filler
Care must be taken to prevent the
and the blocks.
edges or the center of the work from springing up, when

"
driving
home
"
the wedges, or the surface will be wind-
ing when the work
A
is
removed.
is
Grindstone can usually be dispensed with, as grinding
not often required
tools
and when
it
friendly carpenter
proper care
if
is
taken of the edge
necessary you can usually find a
is
who
will
allow you to use his stone.
But you must have a good

Oilstone.
stone
is
Of the manufactured stones the India
oil-
being very extensively used, while the Lily-
white and the
Rosy-red
Washita
oilstones are
the best natural stones on the market.
two
Besides an
of
oil-
stone you must of course have an

Oiler
and a
bottle of sperm-oil
or sewing-machine lubricating
If
you have not
work bench
or bicycle, automobile,
oil.
built tool drawers in the ends of
and
(Figs. 6
7),
your
you must make a chest or
cabinet as soon as possible to protect your tools from

injury and from being borrowed without your permission.
When
a boy, he
the author received his
first outfit of
tools
when
made
Tool-chest out of an old grocery box, this being the
best material at
to turn this
box
hand
and as
into a chest
well he has decided to
tell
it
and
was such an easy matter

it
served the purpose so
you boys how
to
make one
31
Figure 43 was drawn from this old chest,

which the author still has in his possession. The box
just like
it.
used was, approximately, 26 inches long, 13 inches wide,
and 9 inches deep, but yours need not be
Fig. 43.
A Grocery-box Tool-chest.
dimensions, only be sure
your large
of these exact
it is
long enough to accommodate
tools.
all
loose boards and
split
with pieces from
After selecting your box, renail

replace any that
another box.
happen
to
be
Fasten together the cover boards with a
end {A, Fig. 44) and hinge to the box

with a pair of strap-hinges as shown.
Buy a hinge-hasp
batten at each
32
and staple
45) and a pair of
(Fig.
drawer-pulls at a
hardware-store, screw the hasp to the box cover and the

staple to the box,
of the
and screw the drawer-pulls
As
box for handles.
to the
ends
a check to prevent the cover
from dropping too
far back,
attach a chain to two screw-
eyes screwed into the cover
and the box.

removable and
How
tray
to hinge
upon two
sets
Make
ends of the box.
this
the Cover.
\ inch shorter than the
tray
box, 7 inches wide, and
put the bottom,

that a box
is
sides,
i\ inches deep
and ends together
and
(inside),
same way
in the
made.
Fasten a block with holes of the proper size drilled

it
which
to the inside of the cover, in
as the brad-awls, screw-driver bits,

sets,
and tack some loops
squares to slide
square
is
in.
to stick
wood
The upper end
kept in the
tray,
bit-brace, etc.
top edge
of the
bottom
box and
tray,
etc.
is
released
small tools
should
be
the
saw, planes,
of the chest.
Notch the
and the large

in the
nail-
of the carpenter's
The
screw-driver,
auger-bits,
and
cover for the
held by a couple of screw-hooks, and
chisels,
in
such tools
drills
of leather to the
by giving one hook a quarter-turn.

the
is
cleats or strips nailed to the
Fig. 44.
Fig. 45.
Hinge-hasp
and Staple.
The
tools
if
necessary, to
accommo-
date the tools on the cover.
When
you have completed your
chest,
sandpaper
it
ss
then give the inside and the tray a coat of boiled
well,
and the outside a coat
linseed-oil
plan for an easily
Tool Cabinet
is
made
illustrated
This
Craftsman."
of paint or oil stain.
and described
a very simple affair
is
in "
made out
box with the cover boards battened together
The
The Boy
of a
for a door.
author has been asked for a plan for making a
paneled door for a cabinet, and as others of you
may
also
wish to panel the door, to make a neater-appearing

cabinet, he suggests that 3ôu follow the directions given
for
making the door
of the
Music Cabmet described on

is the simplest way for
page 124 (see Fig. 137), which

a boy to make a paneled door.
tool cabinet
is
the handier receptacle for keeping
tools within easy reach
a chest
if
is
but
to be preferred
the tools must be carried
about, which
is
often neces-
sary where
the
located in a
damp
place, to
keep them from
rusting.
In case you
shop
make
is
a chest,
Tool-rack on the wall
back
of the
bench
arrangement
,,
the
tools
working.
is
for
,
good
holding
.,
while
you are
Fig. 46.
A Tool-rack.
In the photograph opposite page
such a rack, and
Fig. 46
shows how
it
2 is
shown
may be put
34
The
together.
chisels, auger-bjts,
wood
and
drills, awls,
screw-driver stick into the holes bored through the bottom

shelf,
and the ends
small bracket fastened below the shelf.
Nails and spools
In the same photograph you will
hold the other tools.

see
supported by a
of the small bits are
how boxes may be
bracketed to the wall for
Open Shelves for your paint-cans, varnishes, and other
may be supported above

rack for miscellaneous articles also how the under
of the work bench may be utilized for
supplies,
and how a
the
shelf
part
Material Boxes by fastening boards across the rails to
hold them.
Nails
and screws should be kept
order, so the sizes
some kind
in
of
wanted may be got quickly without

unnecessary
ing,
hunt-
and several
re-
ceptacles for these
shown
are
47
Ftg. 47-
to 52.
in Figs.
The
Nail
Partitioned
Box
will
(Figs. 47-49)
hold six
differ-
ent lengths of nails.

Fig. 48.
Figs. 47-49-
Fig. 49.
Details of Partitioned Nail

Box.
Cut the back and

bottom {A and
C,
Fig. 48) 3 feet long
by 8 inches wide, the front (B) the same length by

inches wide, and the partitions and end pieces
{>,
Fig.
35
49) 6 inches wide by 6 inches high at the back and 5

Nail together the front, back,
inches high at the front.
and end
pieces, then nail
partitions
in
place
on the cover.
into six
either be screwed to the
If
you screw
it,
do
this be-
Cut the hinge-strip {E, Fig.
inch wide by the length of the box and nail
place to the partition tops.
one
box
the
to divide
hung upon hooks.
fore putting
49)
as
The box may
equal spaces.
wall or
so
on the bottom and fasten the
piece, or in
Mark
strip.
two
it
in
The cover may be made
in
as in ig. 47;
the sizes of the nails
hinge
it
to the hinge-
upon the
front of the
box, and fasten nails of corresponding sizes in front of the
receptacles with small staples or bent-over brads to help
you
to
associate
the
lengths
with
the
This box has been planned for commo7t

sizes
size
7zails
numbers.
and
to hold
ranging from \\ inches to 3^ inches long (4-penny
to i6-penny).
Another Box
may be made
to
hold finishing-nails,
papers of brads and tacks, and spikes
(20-, 30-, 40-, 50-,
and 6p-penny
may be
nails).
Bolts and screws
kept in a
third box.
Empty
to get
tin
cans and cigar boxes are easy for any boy
and make excellent
Receptacles for Nails, Screws, and Brads.
can with a removable
lid
in
There
is
which molasses and sirup
comes (Fig. 50) that is very handy, and baking-powder

cans and even tomato cans, if the solder around the rim
of their opened end is melted and the end pulled off,
36
The cans may be hung up
will serve the purpose.
by side on the
wall,
if
mounted upon
side
pieces of board
provided with screw-eyes or

holes (Figs. 50 and 51).
mount
Fig.
Fig. 50.
Figs. 50 and 51.
punch four
holes through each and wire
them to pieces of board as
Cigar
shown in Fig. 51.
boxes may be fastened upon
wooden brackets as shown
5:
Can Receptacles
for Nails, Brads,
To
pjg-
the cans,
co
and Screws.
After you
have
fitted
up
your workshop with a bench, shelving, racks, and receptacles,
are
and made a chest or cabinet
still
number
before you will
of pieces of
for
your
equipment
tools, there
to construct
be ready to
open up your shop for business.
Figure 53 shows
A Horse which is very
much
handier than the simpler forms

of carpenters' horses, in so far
as
,
the
,
board
r
broader surface
top
.
to
gives
^
lay
a
1
work
yig. 52.
Cigar-box
Receptacles
for Screws, Bolts, or Miscellane-
ous Hardware.
upon and the shelf underneath makes a convenient place

to lay saws and other tools.
This horse is very commonly used by carpenters. Details for its construction
are shown in Figs. 54, 55, and 56.
Cut the body A 3

feet 10 inches long out of a piece of 2-by-4,
four legs
dimensions shown
one edge
to the
i-inch stuff, with
37
and cut the
in Fig. 55 out of
Trim off
tapered J inch.
the upper ends of the legs
shown
when the
as
to
apart.
56, so
Fig.
body the
the
ends
in
legs are nailed
be
will
Nail
place about
inches
16
the
5
lower
legs
in
Fig. 53.
inches from
Horse.
the ends of the body, then cut the end rails (C, Fig. 54)
and the side rails
3 inches wide and of the required
length and nail them to the legs 9 inches below the body.
Cut the tray bottom boards

to fit between the rails (^,
Fig. 54) and fasten
them
with nails driven through

the
rails into their
edges.
Cut the top board

feet
long
stuff
and screw
out
of
it
i-inch
to the
body, countersinking the

Fig. 55.
Figs. 54-56.
When
Details of Horse.
the horse has been
probably find that
it
screw-heads
as a
protec-
tion to your edge tools.
nailed
together,
does not stand evenly
at
you
will
any
rate,
the legs will not be cut to the right angle on the bottom
38
and
not rest squarely upon the
will
To
floor.
allow for
trimming, an extra inch was added to the length of the

Set the horse in the
legs, in the leg pattern (Fig. 55).
place
it
will
occupy
your shop, so
in
out of level the horse
may be made
up the top
inch thick, slide
mark
it
to stand evenly in that
and put a chip under
place, locate the short leg,

to level
in case the floor is
it
so as
then take a block of wood about
around the bottom
of
each
and
leg,
a line across each face even with the top of the
block.
Saw
the legs off on these lines
and
if
the
work
has been done carefully, the horse will stand perfectly

even.
pleting
If
it,
you find that the horse

it
the legs as
will
much
is
too high after
com-
be an easy enough matter to trim

as
is
necessary to
make
suit
it
off
your
height.
You
should have two horses
to lay long pieces of
work
for
in
your shop across which
marking and sawing.
may be used
make these. You will
Of
you
course a couple of packing boxes
until
have plenty of time to
also find
that a chair will serve the purpose of
Saw-bench for small work about as well as a horse
would.
Such usage
will
however, unless the seat
be rather hard on the chair,
is
protected in
some way,
so
if
you want
A Chair
Saw-bench, prepare a wooden cover that can be
placed over the seat as shown in Fig. 57.
cover 20 inches long and
Make
this
16 inches wide; fasten the
boards together at the ends with battens of just the
39
thickness of the chair seat and fitted to the curve or

slant of the seat
{A and B,
button to each batten.
over the chair
seat,
You may
and screw a wooden
then set the cover over
the buttons so as to hold

place.
Fig. 58),
Place several thicknesses of cloth
it
it
and turn
in
protect the
back by slipping a potato sack

over
it.
It
is
necessary to have a
miter-box to guide your saw

in
The admiters.
iron boxes now man-
making
justable
Fig. 58.
Fig. 57.
Cover
Chair
Saw-bench.
to protect
Chair,
ufactured are the most satisfactory kind, but they are
buy and probably
rather expensive to
will
not serve your
purpose any better than
A Home-made
makes
for
his
Miter-box such as the average carpenter
own
use (Fig.
59).
This box may be
made of pine. Cut the bottom piece 4 inches wide

and 14 inches long out of
a ij-inch board, and the
Fig. 59.
-Home-made
Miter-box.
sides 5 inches wide
and 14
j^^^ ^^^ ^^
j_j^^j^
j^^j^^^
stuff,
and
Then
take the box to a carpenter and ask
nail
the sides to the edges of the bottom.
two miter cuts and one
method
in
"
of laying out
him
to
(ô-degree cut in the sides.
and cutting the miters
The Boy Craftsman
"
but,
is
make
The
described
unless you have had
40
enough practice in sawing so you can saw very accurately,

you had better have a carpenter cut these for you.
A Bench-hook (Fig. 60) is used for a number of operations.
For paring with your chisel and chopping with
your hatchet
protection
furnishes
it
bench
the
to
which would other-
top,
wise be cut up badly in a

short time
handy
is
it
to
and other small
lay sticks
pieces on for sawing with
the back-saw, and by

Fig. 6o.
right-
ing a right-angle kerf (slot
Bench-hook.
made by
and a left-hand mitered kerf
and
nail the
of a piece of
hook cleat
to'
and a
saw)
in the stop strip
board about
handle try-square
easier to cut
The
them
the
the under side of one edge
may
(Fig.
may
inches square,
and the mitered stop to the opposite edge as shown.

kerfs in the stop strip
it
Make
be used for sawing small work accurately.
bench-hook out
mak-
The
be laid out with a mitered
67,
page
52),
but
it
will
be
in a miter-box.
operation of truing the edge of a board
as jointing or shooting,
and
to
is
known
hold the work and guide
the plane while shooting short, narrow pieces of work,
A Shooting-board
is
generally used.
show the construction

out of
-inch stuff,
of
one
Figures 61 and 62
of these.
Cut the pieces
ii\ inches wide by 24 inches long,
41
7^ inches wide by 24 inches long, C 2 inches wide by

2 inches wide by 24 inches long.
7^ inches long, and
necessary to have the faces and edges straight and
It is
true in order to
it
make
possible to true up
other pieces of
by means
Bevel
ing-board.
off the
work
of a shoot-
lower right-
hand edge
of
B (Fig.
62), then nail or screw

it
to board
with
Fig. 61.
left-hand edges
the
Nail
flush.
to
Figs. 61-62.
strip
so that
its
end
is
exactly at right angles with
the right-hand edge of board B.

left-hand edge of board
In using
bench with
to the
it
D
A shoved against
is
upon the
placed
close against the bench apron and
the board to be jointed

C,
Nail strip
A.
the shooting-board,
strip
the end of board
end against
Shooting-board.
is
the bench-stop, then
placed upon board
which forms a
stop,
B with
and the edge
one
to be
planed projecting over the right-hand edge of board

with the plane turned on
worked back and forth

off
accurately.
The
its
side
upon board
until the
it is
B\
then
edge has been planed
bevel on the edge of
forms a
groove which keeps small shavings from getting in the
way
of the plane
and throwing
it
out of
line.
Many
you boys, no doubt, are studying manual

training and learning the use of wood-working tools, how
to select material, and how to lay out and carry to comBut the majority of schools do
pletion a piece of work.
of
not provide these advantages, and

the course of
instruction
only to
many
that do, furnish
boys of the higher
number of my readers are

boys who must depend largely upon handicraft books and
their own power of observation for a knowledge of how
grades, so that the greater
to
do things.
There are
all
sorts of things
which the average boy
can construct without having had instruction in the
making
of
wood
and finishing
making
it,
joints,
and
in
putting together an article
but for any particular work, such as the
of furniture
and things which you wish
to sell
must understand how to proceed in

the work may not only be substantially con-
or give away, you
order that
structed, but be pleasing to the eye as well.
The
sug-
gestions and pointers presented in this chapter are in-
tended to help you
to attain these results,

42
and those
of
ELEMENTARY MANUAL TRALNING
43
you who are studying manual training will do well to

read over the instructions, as you will likely find some-
new among them which
thing
you
will aid
in carrying
out the work described in succeeding chapters.
Every boy should,
of
first
all,
know something about
the
Selection of
The
Working Material.
softer
woods
are
better for the beginner to use, as they are easier to work.
Of
wood, and basswood

work.
The
than another.
soft
but
are probably best adapted to
amateur
depends largely upon the
locality,
selection
certain varieties
being easier to procure in one place
Clear white pine
is
the choicest of the
woods for cabinet making and all other nice work,

becoming so scarce that it is now almost impossi-
is
many
ble to get in
parts of the country.
other very easily worked

is
hemlock, redwood, white-
these, pine, cypress, spruce,
also good,
and can be had
whitewood (from the

the
linden
The
latter
wood
tree)
the California
in very
tulip tree)
furnish
two woods
Cypress
is
an-
redwood
wide boards
and
and basswood (from
excellent
working material.
are close-grained, take stain ex-
ceedingly well, can be procured in boards of considerable

width, and are especially
good material
amateur work, one feature
in their favor
that they are not easily split in nailing.
jectionable point
is
their
for all sorts of
being the fact
The
only ob-
great tendency to warp, but
warping may be prevented by cleating together wide

pieces used in large work.
44
Of the hard woods, oak
work of
It is cheap, easily worked, and
the amateur craftsman.
easier to finish than the more expensive woods, which
require very exact workmanship, the slightest defect
is
best suited to the
showing through the highly polished or
upon
customarily put
faces
readily
Oak
them.
and looks best when treated
satin-finish sur-
in this
takes
stain
way and then
one of the finishes easiest for a boy to put

waxed
on successfully. Ash, maple, cherry, birch, mahogany,
and walnut are other hard woods which you will likely
have occasion to use later on when you have had more
experience in your work.
Many
of
you boys have seen how logs are cut up into
and heavier
boards, planks,
all of
pieces, but
it
will
be well for
you to know something about the
Wood and how
Structure of
consideration in converting
will enable
you
intelligently.
is
into
it
and handle your material more
to select
Figure 63 shows a cross-section of a log.
a circular core
rounding this
must be taken
the log into lumber, as
In the center, or generally a

center,
this
is
little
known
to
one side
of
the
as the pith, then sur-
known as annual rings,

The wood between
bark.
a series of circles
and around the outside
is
the
each two rings represents the amount of one year's

growth, and the annual rings are produced as a result of
the suspension of growth during
counting the rings

of a tree.
The
it is
autumn and
winter.
By
very easy to determine the age
inner portion of the tree
is
known
as the
ELEMENTARY MANUAL TRAINING

heart-wood and supplies
more
the
solid
45
and desirable
material (unless the tree has started to decay,

first
wood
is
known
the sap-wood,
as
greater portion of
the
as
it
contains
the
the tree's
In the cross-sections
juices.
63 and 64) you
of logs (Figs.
notice a
of
lines
radiating from the pith,
some
will
when
signs are generally to be found here), while the outer
series
extending as far as the bark
Fig. 63.
Fig. 64.
Tree Structure.
Cracks in Logs.
and others running but part

way.
These, called the medullary rays, are a peculiar
formation in a tree and produce what
gram upon
the surface of
all
is
known
as silver-
quarter-sawed wood.
The
must be taken into consideration in

Cutting up the Log, and different methods of sawing
are employed according to the purpose for which the
tree structure
wood
is
common
sawing
With
is
Fig. 66.
Plain-sawed.
Quarter-sawed.
is
in the
and bark removed.
of the pith, the
boards obliquely; this
When wood
The
waste
sawdust
But you
by looking
at the
with the exception of one board taken
through the center

the
only
the
this
will notice,
illustration, that
used.
method of plain
shown in Fig. 65.
produced
Fig. 65.
be
to
is
the
annual rings cross

cause
of
drys out (seasons), the greatest
warping.
amount
of
46
shrinkage occurs along the line of the annual rings, therefore the longer the arc of the ring crossing the cross-sec-
tion of a board, the greater the shrinkage along that arc

will be,
and plain-sawed
lengths crossing
Warping
the result.
wide than
in
by dealing or
of
different
shrink unequally and warp
will
it,
having arcs
stuff,
is
more
as
noticeable, of course, in
narrow boards and must be taken care
of
other method of holding the
in
some
wood
position.
The board
sawing
cut from the center of the log in plain
the
is
only one which
grain to a marked
degree.
show the
will
To
get
silver-
this effect
upon
every board
Quarter Sawing
is
necessary (Fig. 66).
sawed into quarters, then each quarter
is
The
log
sawed up
is first
radially
so the surface of each board will be parallel with the
medullary rays.
A
is
Strictly speaking, the quarter
shows the only proper method
the only one in which each board
rays,
is
it
parallel with the
but methods B, C, and Z? are also used, as they save
considerable waste of
material,
sorted into different grades.

fact
marked
of quarter sawing, as
that
more time
quarter-sawed stock
sawed
The
stuff.
is
and boards so cut are
The
big waste, and the
required in the cutting,
much more
make
expensive than plain-
irregular pieces cut from between the
boards are usually utilized for moldings and other small

pieces,
and
this
Besides the
reduces the amount of waste somewhat.
beautiful
markings, quarter-sawed boards

have the advantage
of
47
uniform shrinkage and are not
likely to warp.
Knots, cup-shakes, heart-shakes, and checks are defects

occurring in logs and produce a big waste in the manufacture of lumber.
The
portions containing these are either
cut away or, where not very marked, the boards cut from
them are sorted into the poorer grades of lumber. First
and second grades generally admit boards with small,
sound
pin knots and standard knots, but
Knots,
to a
lumber yard or
mill for
your material, you
if
you go
will
prob-
ably be allowed to pick out pieces from the pile which are
clear or
which have knots
in places
where they can easily
be cut out without spoiling the boards for your purpose.

Cracks, however, such as
Cup-shakes and Heart-shakes, the former being cracks
between the rings and the

lary rays
latter cracks
(Fig. 64), should not
along the medul-
appear upon any boards
but those of the poorest grade of lumber, so do not

dealer pass
them
off
on you
for first-grade stuff.
let
Boards
are likely to split at the ends through drying out unevenly,
and these
rifts
are
known
as
Very long checks extending
Checks.
a board are not admitted in

likely to occur
time and
is
even
first
entirely through
grades, but checkiitg
after the piece has seasonediox a
common
fault with large
is
long
timbers where the
outside dries out long before the center.
After the boards have been cut,
it is
necessary that the
48
sap be evaporated before they are
fit
The two
to use.
methods employed are known as

which consists
Seasoning,
up the boards
in piling
large piles in the open, with
narrow strips
of
wood placed
between each layer to allow a free circulation

throughout the
for
from two
pile,
and leaving them
to four years,
in
of
air
in this position
and
method of which consists in piling

a similar manner in large chambers or
Kiln Drying, the best
up the lumber
in
kilns and passing condensed steam through and around the
boards for a period of two weeks, to open up the pores and

cause the water to run out, and then shutting off the steam
and passing a forced circulation
The
two weeks.
for another
on lumber used
of heated air
latter
for fine furniture
through them
method
is
employed
but as a rule material
for ordinary purposes remains in the kilns not over forty-
eight hours, and often a
much shorter time than
slower the process of drying, the better
it is
for the
wood,
much
of the
for the reason that rapid drying destroys

elasticity
On
and toughness.
fact that kiln-dried stock
is
this
more
Lumber
is
Stuff.
Undressed
spoken
account and for the
sensitive to atmospheric
changes, weather-seasoned lumber
Stock or
is
much
to
saw has been removed by the

only one side
is
be preferred.
of as
As produced from a log, it

Stuff, and when the roughness
Dressed Stuff
The
this.
(specified
smoothed,
it
planer,
it is
is
left
as
by the
called
upon material
is
known
bills).
If
said to be surfaced-oite-

side
(marked S-i-S)
if
two-sides-and-one-edge
49
two sides and one edge, surfaced-
(marked S-2-S'&-i-E\
etc.
Tongued-a7id-grooved boards (Fig. 75) are known as

Matched Stuff (specified M), and when they are also
beaded, they are said to be
Matched-and-Beaded (specified M-&-B).

material
is
called ceiling,
and
is
The beaded
used for porch ceilings,
backs of pantry cases, wainscotings,
etc.
Lumber up to 2 inches thick (undressed) is known

Boards, when 2 inches or more in thickness as
Planks or Dimension
more,
Stuff,
as
and when four inches or
called
it is
Timber
Stock Sizes of Lumber.
thickness and \ inch in
Boards are reduced \ inch in

width from the original dimen-
sions in the process of dressing, which
consideration in
work.
allowed for in cutting up the log, but as a rule
this is
is
laying out
must be taken into

In some localities
Thus, a board
not.
in the rough,
inch thick and 12 inches wide,
would be \ inch thick and
iij inches
wide when dressed, but as a matter of fact

stock
now being sawed about -^
is
i-inch
all
inch under
inch,
only J| inch thick when dressed.

inches or more in thickness is reduced \ inch in
and as a
Stock
it
result
dressing.
is
Thus, a 2-inch by 4-inch piece
is
only
i|-
inches thick and 3f inches wide when dressed.

To avoid the use of fractions as much as possible, stock
is
generally
known by its undressed dimensions,
as follows:
50
2-by-4-inch stuff (or simply 2-by-4's),
-by- 1 2-inch
-inch stock (generally spoken of as -J-inch stock,
stuff,
which
was the dressed thickness), etc. The regular

thicknesses of dressed lumber are f inch (^-inch stock),
originally
f inch (f-inch
stock),
}f inch (i-inch stock), ij inches
(ij-inch stock), if inches (ij-inch stock), if inches (2-inch

stock), etc., the widths are if inches (2-inch), 3f inches
5f inches (6-inch), 7f inches (8-inch), etc., each

succeeding width increasing 2 inches, and the standard
(4-inch),
lengths run from 10 feet to 20 feet in even numbers.

In Purchasing Material,
there
if
is
not a mill or lum-
ber yard near by where you can go and place your order
you can probably arrange with a friendly carpenter to buy your stock for you when he is purchasing
direct,
some
Make
for himself.
out
A Mill List with the number of pieces of each size desired,

the kind of wood, the dimensions (place the thickness
then the width, and

dressing,
Pieces
12
4
4
4
10
2
I
last
the length) and the directions for
matchmg, beading,
Material
)>
5J
JJ
5J
in the following order:
Dimensions
10" X 12' 0"

li" X 12" X 10' 0"
i"x 12" X 16' 0"
l"X 10" X 12' 0"
i"x
Whitewood
Cypress
Yellow Pine
J
etc.,
i"x 3"Xi2'o"
Red Oak
5J
first,
2"
4"
2"X
10"
0"
18' 0"
16'
Remarks
M-&-B
Ceiling
S-2-S
S-2-S-&-1-E
S-2-S
S-2-S
S-4-S
S-4-S

Lumber
is
sold by the thousand feet (per M), so after
finding the existing retail price
To Estimate the Cost
board
51
of
an easy matter
it is
your material.
piece of
inch thick, 12 inches wide, and 12 inches long
Upon
figured as a board foot.
this basis a piece
4 inches by 12 feet would contain 4 board
is
inch by
and a
feet,
piece 2 inches by 4 inches by 12 feet would contain 8
board
same
Any
feet.
thickness under
The
as i-inch stuff.
inch
figured the
is
covers
retail price ordinarily
dressing, but matching, grooving, rabbeting, beading,
other machine work
is
and
extra.
Before attempting any shop cabinet making, a boy
should spend some time in getting accustomed to hand-
work
and smooth, and saw
ling his tools properly, so as to be able to lay out

accurately, plane
The Proper Handling of Tools " is described

The Boy Craftsman," and it is not my intention to
to a line.
in
up a surface true
"
"
repeat these instructions here, only so far as

essary to
to cut
show the
and join
its
right
accurately,
well.
you
you cannot expect
will likely
To guard
nec-
its
surface.
Unless you lay out a piece of work
because nothing
start,
is
it
to lay out a piece of work,
various parts, and to finish
Laying Out Work.
job,
way
will
fit,
to turn out a satisfactory
and
if
you are careless
at the
be careless in the other operations as
against mistakes,
it is
check up measurements as you go along.

rule or a carpenter's square with
which
always best to
Use
a 2-foot
to lay off
urements, and a carpenter's square or try-square for
measi"^r^<5-
52
ing lines between points and carrying them around the

(See Fig. 67
four sides of a piece of work.
ing Exercise on page
54.)
also Plan-
sharp lead-pencil
used
be
for
may
scribing,
but the work can be
done more accurately

with a jack-knife; however,
a knife line can
be made only upon sur-
where it will be
removed by cutting or
faces
concealed
Fig. 67.
Scribing with Knife and Try-
piece of wood.
square.
When
scribe a line parallel to
operation
is
known
an edge
marking-gauge.
you wish
to
of a piece of work, the
as
Figures 68 and 76 show
Gauging.
by another
Suppose you wish
how
to
gauge with a
to cut a piece 3 inches
wide from a 4-inch

board.
You must first
test
it
one edge and true
up,
make
necessary, to
if
it
straight for a
working edge
(see
Plan-
ing Exercise), then

head
place
the
srausje
^
^
ap;ainst this edoê
of the board,
of the
and with
^^
Fig. 68.
^^
^
Gauging
with a Marking-gauge
.
(a Mortise-gauge).
53
the spur in the shaft pressed into the surface of the
wood
(Fig. 68), scratch a line
along the board for a
distance equal to the length of the piece to be removed;
upon the opposite face and you will

then have a guide-line upon both faces to saw and plane
to, which is exactly parallel to and at a distance of
The gauge is also used
3 inches from the working edge.
also scribe the line
for laying out various
spur upon the shaft
forms of wood
of the
joints.
mortise-gauge
is
The
double-
provided for
laying out the two sides

of a mortise or groove in
one operation (Fig.
76), the
outer spur being fixed and
made adjustby means of a thumb-
the inner one

able
screw in the end of the shaft.
This form
of
gauge saves
lots of time, especially
you have a number

tises or
when
of
mor-
grooves of one size
to lay out.
Figure
69 shows
how
FiG. 69.
Gauging with Pencil and
gauging may be done with
Carpenter's Square.
a pencil and carpenter's square.
Hold the body
of the
square against the edge of the work, with the tongue ex-
tended across the face upon which the line
is to
be scribed
and the pencil held against the edge at the desired point,
and then, with the fingers braced as shown to hold the pen-
54
move the square toward you with your left hand.

The same operation may be performed with a try-square
cll
steady,
You
will require
some
you
practice before
and
pencil.
will
be able to gauge successfully in this manner, but it is

easy when you get
'
the knack of doing
&
Fig. 70.
it.
cil
may
for
AAlL
and pen-
also be used
gauging,
shown
-^>^>^>^
rule
in "
as
is
The Boy
Craftsman."^ While
TJTTTpi
Fig. 71.
1u
methods will
answer the purpose
for rough work, a
these
marking-gauge
is
to
be preferred for great

Fig. 72.
Testing with a Try-square.

Fig. 71. Testing with a Carpenter's Square.
Fig. 72. Testing an Edge from the Working
accuracy.
For a Planing Ex-
Fig. 70.
Face.
side,
eyes and
of
the
The
of
take a piece
board about
inches long.
one
test
ercise
12
First,
holding the board on a level with your
sighting across
try-square
it
while you
move
along the entire length
the edge
(Fig.
square will strike the high places and
them
be able to distinguish
beneath the edge
as
the light
you
will
of the square, in the hollows.

1
Page
43.
70).
will
show
Locate
55
the high portions as you pass over them, by drawing
shown in Fig. 70, so you will

know where the places are which require the most planthem
a Hne around
Also
ing.
test the
square (Fig.
good
as
board lengthwise with the carpenter's
71).
a board for
Vvây to test
the length)
by means
is
the
of exactly the
test,
(twisting in
']'^.
Get two pieces
same
size for the sticks.
Winding-sticks (Fig.
molding
windmg
of
To make
place both sticks across the board, one at the
farther end and the
other
square
of
the
at
.^^"^
near
end, and hold
the
board level and at

the proper height to
make
the
the
sio-ht
sticks,
of
upon a
sticks
level with
\^(^ Jf{^
your eyes
across
and
may know
of
tops
if
Fig. 73.
the
Testing with Winding-sticks.
their tops appear to be exactly
that there
is
on a
no wind to the board
if
line,
one end
one stick appears above the corresponding end
other stick, you can easily determine where and

the wind
you
of the
how much
is.
After determining where planing
is
necessary, place
the board in your bench-vise and plane up the face, test-
ing
true.
it
again and again until you find
This
first
trued surface
is
it
to be perfectly
called the
working face
56
and should be marked with a cross
With
(Fig. 67).
the
handle of the try-square held firmly against this working
and the blade extending across an edge (Fig.
face
move
plane
it
along the surface, locate the high places, and
up and
it
72),
this edge,
test
it
as
you did the working
Mark
face.
which now becomes the working edge^ with two
short parallel
Next, set the marking-
(Fig. 68).
lines
gauge to any thickness desired for the board and, with

the head of the gauge pressed firmly against the working
gauge a
face,
face to the
along each edge.
line
gauge
lines, test
Plane up the second
The ends of
With the handle
and true up.
the board should be trimmed off next.
of the try-square pressed firmly against the

first
scribe a line across the
working
face,
working edge, then, with the
handle of the square against the working edge, continue

this line across the
working face and the opposite
From the working face carry the

edge.
Then, from the scribed
which you wish
line across the unfinished

line, lay off
to cut the piece
around the four sides
face.
the length to
and scribe another
at that distance.
Saw
off the
line
ends
of the board about \ inch outside of the lines, to allow

for planing
them up smooth.
grain, the farther edge will split
This
difficulty
of
wood
it
is
90),
may
in front of
better
which
down
it
when you clamp
the only reason
before the ends.
end
unless protected.
be overcome by placing another piece

it
in the vise,
chamfer the unfinished edge
to
is
In planing across
for
not
but
(see
Fig.
finishing
this
After planing off both ends square, set

the gauge to the width you wish to
make
57
the board and
gauge a Hne along the faces and across the ends, shding
the head of the gauge along the working edge (Fig. 68)
then saw off the edge to within about |- inch of the lines
with a rip-saw and finish the edge with the plane.
For a Sawing Exercise, scribe a series of lines around a

trued-up block of
wood with your
the block in your vise and see
try-square, then place
how
well you can keep to
the line while sawing through the block.
Stick to this
exercise until you can saw the block through exactly on

Guide the
the line, without running off at any point.
saw with your

a
little
line,
left
thumb
until
has cut into the wood
it
way, hold the saw exactly at right angles to the
and use long, steady strokes.
No
better exercises in laying out work, planing,
and
sawing can be found than the makingof the

Joints and Splices used for joining together pieces of
wood, and
it is
important to practice upon such joinings
before attempting to use

in order that
them upon a nice piece
you may not run the
of work,
risk of spoiling material.
Any odd-sized pieces of wood which you have on hand

may be used for these exercises as the proportions of the
joints
may
The most
be worked out to suit the size of the piece.
important joints and splices are shown
in
By a joint is
74 and 75 (pages 58 and 59).
meant any kind of a connection between two pieces placed
Figs.
at
an angle
to
one another, while a
between two pieces placed
splice is a
in a straight line.
connection
/A^Wv^^
Fig. 74.
Common Forms of Joints and Splices.

5^
DOWELtJOINJS
Fig. 75.
Common Forms of Joints and Splices.

59
-^
6o
You
are familiar, of course, with the
Common-joint and the Butt-joint, though perhaps you
do not know them by name, and no doubt you have used

a better form
the Common-splice and the Fished-splice
of splice
in joining together pieces
up the frameworks
short in putting
tree huts,
one
You
and other work.
which have been too

for
your club-house,
will possibly
have
of these in constructing the partition for a
an
workshop, or
Chapter VIII.
attic
room such
The above
joints
as
and
is
to use
basement
described in
shown
splices are
and require no explanation.
clearly in the illustrations
In the preparation of
Halved-joint, or Half-lap joint, as
thickness
will
fit
cut
is
away from each member
may be done
and B, or away from the end

a square
saw
if
of
so the pieces
one piece as
shown
and marking-gauge
for the halving.
The
in Fig.
at
at C, or in
126 (page 113).
for laying out the lines
The wood should be removed
The end
if
the lap
is
halved-joint
with nails or screws, but
with a
i\\Q
made
at the center of the
must be fastened together
center halvedjoint
vci2iy
some-
times be fastened with glue alone.
By joining two
the ends of the pieces are halved, or with
a saw and chisel

pieces.
sometimes
ends of the pieces as
at the
the center of both pieces as
fine
is
together with their surfaces even or flush.
cutting
Use
it
width and one half of the
called, a piece equal to the
Halved-splice
pieces lengthwise with a halved-joint

is
obtained (Fig. 74).

The Mortise-and-Tenon Joint
of cabinet-makers' joints,
employ
is
and you
in joining together
it
one
of the
will
6i
most important
have occasion to
work when
it
is
necessary
make strong connections. Several forms of this joint

are shown in Fig. 74, and the method of laying out the
to
mortise and the

is
shown
and
teiioii
Figs.
in
76
Both mem-
'J'],
bers of the joint should
be finished up to
first
the proper
size,
except
that additional length
must be
on the
left
tenon piece
allow
to
for the cutting of the

Fig.
Fig.
-j^.
^-j.
tenon, and the mortise
Layansf out a Mortise
Tenon
piece should also be a
^^th the Mortise-gauge
out ready to be Cut.
longer
little
to
if
the cutting
prevent the end from
tise
is
to
Piece laid
be done near the end,

Ordinarily the mor-
splitting.
should not be more than one third of the width of the
piece
it is
cut through, and the tenon not less then one
third of the width of the piece
it
is
cut on, in order that
weakened by the cutting.

first,
the making of the mortisein which the mortise is cut entirely
neither piece will be

I
shall
and-tenon
explain,
joint,
through the piece.
Lay
off the
length of the mortise
equal to the width of the tenon piece and scribe lines
around the four sides
of the block to
determine the ends
HANDICRx\FT FOR HANDY BOYS
62
(Fig. 76), then set your mortise-gauge to the width of the
mortise and scribe the two side hues (Fig. 76) on both
faces of the piece.
The width
should be
of the mortise
made
one
of
if
the exact width

of
your
chisels,
possible, so that the
cutting of the entire
width
may
be done in
one operation (Figs.

"jS
and 79)
this will
leave
little
or no trim-
ming
to
do on the
sides.
To
tise,
cut
mor-
the
place the piece of
work upon the bench

with one end toward
you,
then with
chisel held as
Fig. 78.
Cutting a
Mortise.
Fig. 79.
Trimming
up the Ends.
in
Fig.
beveled
shown
with the
side
facing
you, start at the

middle
Fig. 78.
jS,
the
of
the space
marked out and drive

the chisel into the wood, then withdraw the chisel, set
its
edge about | inch back
into the
now and
of this first cut
wood again; continue
and drive
it
cutting in this manner,
then prying out the pieces between the cuts

until the farther
guide-Hne has been reached, then reverse
the position of the piece of
The
space.
work and,
from there back
again, cut
6s
to
starting at the center
end
the other
of the
mortise should be cut through one half the
thickness of the piece, then the piece should be turned
over and the remaining one half cut through from that face.
The ends
of the mortise
work the
this part of the
toward the
must then be trimmed

flat
side of the chisel
line as in Fig. 79.
made by boring
and for
must be held
This trimming, ox paring,
should be done without the use of a mallet.

very often
up,
number
A mortise is
of holes
and then
same
round holes on
trimming up
to the guide-line with a chisel, in the
manner
described for cutting large,
as
page 142
Lay
for
is
(see Fig. 156).
off the
length of the tenon with enough allowance
trimming the end
later,
then scribe a line around the
four sides of the piece to locate the shoulder of the tenon
Set the spurs of the mortise-gauge a
(Fig. ^^).
farther
apart than the width of
the
mortise, to
trifle
allow
saw in cutting, and scribe the

side lines of the tenon from the shoulder line to the end,
across the end, and down the other side to the shoulder
for the thickness of the
With
line.
shoulder
line,
back-saw cut the shoulders along the
being very careful to saw exactly on the
line,
then place the piece in the bench-vise as shown in Fig. 80
and cut down the sides

tenon should
that
it
will
fit
of the
tenon to the shoulder.
fairly tight in the mortise,
not drive easily
The
but not so tight
when coated with
glue.
If
64
little
too large for the mortise,^ trim the tenon with a
chisel.
Short tenons
may be
cut entirely with the chisel.
After fitting the pieces together, trim
off the
end
One
tenon flush with the face of the mortise.
of the
of the
tenon pieces shown

the
in
illustration
has a shoulder cut
upon all four sides,

which is commonly
done
to conceal the
edges of the mortise,
while one of the
shown
but part way
mortises
cut
through
(a
the
Fig. 8o.
be
Cutting the Sides of a Tenon.
made \ inch
and- tenon joint illustrated
make than
In
will
is
the closed joint,
with a saw and
the
piece
blhid mortise)
tenon for the
j^^^^^ mortisC
mUSt
shorter than the depth of the mortise to
allow plenty of clearance for the end.
to
is
The
ope7t mortise-
common form and simpler

as the mortise may be cut
chisel.
making the
furniture detailed in Chapter
VI you
use the full-depth mortise only on pieces through
which the tenon
projects,
and iox pins, as you
will see
by
looking at the working-drawings, the blind mortise being
made
in all other cases.
65
Tenons may be fastened in place with glue^ nails,

For gluing see page 72, for
screws, pins, or wedges.
nailing see page 74, and for screwing see page 72.
The form
of
Pins which you will use most are those described for
the construction of the furniture in Chapter VI.
In Fig.
74 you will see another common way of pinning together

First of all, a
the members of a mortise-and-tenon joint.
small hole
the tenon
hole
is
bored through the sides of the mortise, then

slipped into place and the position of the
is
marked upon
it,
and then the hole
is
bored through
j^ inch nearer to the shoulder than

where located. By changing the position of the hole you
will see that the pin will draw the shoulder on the tenon
the tenon about
piece tight against the mortise piece,

place.
into
For
Wedging the tenon (Fig.
sawed
when driven
in the
end
74),
of the tenon,
one or more kerfs are
and
after the
tenon has
been slipped through the mortise, wood wedges are coated

with glue and driven into the kerfs, thus spreading the
end
of the
of a
hammer
Rabbet
tenon
is
is
in the
same way
in
which the handle
fastened in the head.
a square-corner groove cut in the edge of
a board (Fig. 75), and
Rabbet-joint
may
be made by fitting a square-edge
piece into a rabbeted piece, by fitting together two pieces
wdth rabbeted edges, and by fitting a rabbeted piece into

2,
grooved }^\^Q^.
rabbet
may
be cut with a chisel after
PIANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
66
the
manner described
for cutting a mortise (Fig.
if it
extends along the
full
be cut with a saw; but

it
will
if
length of a short piece,
"jS),
it
or
may
you have much rabbeting to
do,
be well to have a rabbet-plane (Fig. 22) for the
purpose, or have your work done at a mill.
Grooves
may
be cut with a chisel in the same
mortises are cut, but this work
is
also simplified
way
that
by using
a dado-plane (Fig. 23).
The
similarity
Housed-joint often causes a confusion of the two.
But there
edge
between a rabbet-joint and
of
is
no rabbeting
one piece being
cut in the other; so
if
in the housed-joint, the entire
fitted,
you
will
or housed, into a groove
remember
this,
you
will
have no trouble in distinguishing one from the other.
The Tongue-and-Groove Joint
is
one which you
probably never have occasion to make, and

do,
it
will
You
will,
will
you ever
be best to take your work to a mill and have
done by machines especially made
it
if
for the purpose.
however, have need of tongued-and-grooved
boards for work requiring tight joints, and these, of

course, are stock stuff.
The Mitered- joint
will
be used a great deal in making
picture-frames and other cabinet work.
45-degree cut and should be
made in
The
It
is
always a
a miter-box (Fig.
show
A Mitered-splice, or beveled-lap splice, used a good deal
in splicing long stretches of interior woodwork.
The Do vet ail- joint is a joint you will never need to
59,
page 39) to insure accuracy.
illustrations

apply to your work, in
of accuracy
and
for this reason
The
beginner.
manufacture
probability, but a great degree
all
required in
is
67
making
it
to secure a neat job,
furnishes a splendid exercise for a
it
dovetail in modified forms
is
used in the
boxes, and in the joining of the
of small
front and sides of drawers, in
which case
done by
it is all
a machine.
Figures 81 to 84 show the necessary steps for dovetailing the ends of two pieces by hand.
First,
plane up the
pieces true and to the
same width and
thick-
ness,
then taking the
piece
upon which the
dovetail
to
be
scribe
mortises
are
cut (Fig.
81),
the
AB
line
around the two faces
and edges
at
Fig. 82.
Fig. 81.
Figs. 81-84.
dis-
Fig. 84.
Fig. 83.
Details of the Dovetail-joint.
tance from the end equal to the exact thickness of the
tenon piece.
nately,
edges
upon
Lay
off
this
line
of the piece
spaces of | inch and | inch,
and scribe
the end. and back to line
AB on
to the end,
around
the other face.
Next,
lay off the oblique side lines of the mortises

faces,
to the
lines parallel
from these points
alter-
on both
then place the piece in the bench-vise, end up,
and saw down along these
lines as far as line
a fine saw for the purpose,
after
wood between, marked M, with
AB,
using
which cut out the
a chisel (Fig. 82).
Place
68
the finished
mark
piece and
move
mortise piece upon the end of the tenon
the
off the tenons, then, to allow for cutting,
over about
lines
inch each side of the
-^q
tenons and, after this has been done, scribe their ends
across
to
AB, which
line
this piece at a distance
should be scribed around
from the end equal
The
ness of the mortise piece (Fig. 83).

sists in
sawing down along the side
last step
con-
lines of the tenons
T (Fig.
and cutting out the wood between, marked
to the thick-
84).
Dovetail Half-lap Joint (Fig. 75) has the advantage
over an ordinary half-lap joint of so locking the pieces

that
it is
impossible to pull
it
apart, lengthwise of the
pieces, without breaking the tenon.
The Dowel-joint (Fig. 75)
is
are fastened together with
The form
wooden pins
at the left lacks the strength
mortise-and-tenon
At
a butt-joint, but the
the right
joint,
but
is
and neatness
or
more boards may
be doweled together to form a wide piece.

of all diameters are
what you need
at
made
for doweling,
them out
yourself.
of the holes in the proper positions

to the edges, so the pieces will
requires
some
practice.
fit
Dowel sticks
and you can get
any furniture shop, which
satisfactory than to cut
of a
often used in cheap work.
shown how two
is
members
called dowels.
and
will
be more
The boring
at right
angles
together yfî-/^ andyf^/,
After you have jointed the
edges of the pieces (see page
40),
set
your marking-
gauge to a measurement equal to one half their thickness,

and, from the working face of each board, gauge a line
69
along the entire length of the edge for a center-line.
Then
place the boards back to back in your bench-vise,
with the edges even, locate the centers of the holes along
one center-line and scribe lines from these points across

the
to
other center-line.
the boards are perfectly
If
and the holes are bored
straight
carefully, the
dowels
will
bring the pieces together exactly right, but in case
you
find they
do not
fit,
it is
easy enough to adjust the
trouble by boring extra pairs of holes at the points where
the boards are out of
line,
much
Bevel the edges of the holes with
as
necessary.
is
shifting the centers just as
a knife or a countersink to form pockets around the
To
dowels for glue.
allow plenty of clearance, cut the
dowels about \ inch shorter than the combined depths of

the holes, then, after you have found that the boards fit
together perfectly, coat one half of the length of the
dowels with glue and stick them into the holes in one
Allow the glue

each board and the other
then coat the edge
of the edges.
to
of
half of each
glue, put
set,
the pieces together and clamp
Allow the glue
to set for
dowel with
them
tightly.
about a day before releasing
the work.
Battens are strips fastened across two or more pieces

of
wood
Fig. 44,
for the
page
purpose of holding them together {A,
32),
while
Cleats are strips often used for the
same purpose, but
generally so secured that the pieces will have a chance

to swell
and shrink.
It
is
well
enough
to nail battens
70
across boards in rough
whether the
do
joints
work where
it
remain closed or
for cabinet work.
All
is
not important
not, but
it
will
not
woodwork expands and con-
tracts to a certain extent with
changes
in the temperature,
and when battens are securely fastened across glued-up

work they do not check this movement, nor do the nails
or screws give
enough
thing possible
to take care of
it,
so the only other
takes place the wood breaks away from
the fastenings and possibly
from
splits
end
Figure 85 shows
end.
to
how
the
movement may be taken

care of by attaching cleats
Fig.
85. The
Proper
^^
Way
to cleat
^*
tO the
WOrk.
are held
in
These
clcatS
place with
screws, but the screw holes are bored about twice the
size of the screws,
the
holes
are
and washers large enough
to
used to support the screw-heads.
cover
By
placing the screws in the exact center of the holes, the
ends are free to work back and forth with the movement
of the
wood.
Cleats are attached to the back of single
boards and glued-up work in the same way, to prevent

warping, and sometimes they are grooved on to the ends
of work.
strip fastened
up
for a shelf or
drawer sup-
known as a cleat.
You have now learned the difference between
port
is
also
a rabbet,
groove, bead, mortise, tongue, tenon, dovetail, and miter,
used in making joints and
splices,
but there are several

other cuts which you should know.
When
71
you read
about the
Taper on a piece of work, you must understand this to
refer to a gradual decrease in the thickness of the
terial,
forming a slanted surface or edge (Fig.
there
is
faces (Fig. ^']\
The
90.
but the latter
is
its
adjoining sur-
and a
Chamfer, three forms of which are
and
Then
86).
the
Bevel, a flat surface cut obliquely to
89,
ma-
bevel 2iXid. the
shown
in
chamfer bevel
Figs. Z%,
diV^
similar,
usually
used only on end grain

for the
purpose of pre-
venting the wood from
down when
planing against it.
Use a marking-gauge
splitting
with which to lay out

these cuts, and
make
Fig. 86.
bevel
the
and
the
chamfer bevel with a

plane
stop
or
chisel,
the
chamfer with a
Tapered Surface.
Bevel.
Figs. 88-90. Three Forms of Chamfers.
Fig. 86.
Fig. 87.
chisel or spoke-shave,
and the cham-
fer groove with a gouge.
Woodwork
is
usually fastened together by
means
glue^ pins, dowels, wedges, screws, 7iails, or bolts.
use of pins, dowels, and wedges has been discussed.

best glue for you to use for
of
The
The
72
Work
Gluing up
in bottles at the
is
buy
the liquid glue such as you can
drug
store, or in
one half pint and larger
The can form
is
preferable to the bottle glue as the screw cover seals
it
cans at a hardware store or paint shop.
up tighter; but when the glue thickens,
is
it
easily
thinned by adding a few drops of vinegar and setting the
can or bottle for a few minutes in some boiling water.
Glue must be thin
shown
that
work
to
Use a brush
well.
in Fig. 91, (page
Before gluing any work,
"j^)
fit
similar to
with which to apply
it.
every part together and
make
sure that no further trimming of the joints
sary
then wipe the portions to be glued with a cloth to
remove
all
neces-
sawdust, and apply the glue thoroughly, but not
too thick, to
been glued
one part
in
at a time.
After the pieces have
place, unless the joints are mortise-and-
tenon joints or other joints which
will drive together, the
work must be held by handscrews

cabinet-fnaker s clamps (Fig. 41), or
(Fig.
is
42), until the glue has
which has oozed out
29),
home-made clamps
thoroughly
about a day's time should be allowed.
page
(Fig. 40,
set,
for
which
All surplus glue
of joints should be scraped off
and
the surface sandpapered clean and smooth before any

finish
is
Screws
applied.
will
hold work together better than
nails,
in
places where the latter cannot be clinched, and are to be
preferred wherever
it is
possible to use them.
The
prin-
forms of wood-screws are the flat-head, the roundhead ox finishi7ig- screw, and the square-head or lag-screw.
cipal

The
form
last
being made
is
73
used for large, rough work, the heads
like bolt-heads so
they
may
be turned with a
wrench.
In fastening together two pieces of hard wood, or very
thin wood,
necessary to
it is
drill
holes for the screws be-
make
fore driving them, in the first case to
and
easier,
The
splitting.
trifle
in the
the driving
second case to prevent the wood from
hole in the upper piece should be
made
larger than the diameter of the stem of the screw,
so the screw will slip through
it
without binding, while
the hole in the lower piece must of course be enough
smaller than the screw so

the
it
will
thread
wood and take a good hold.
In
its
some
way
cases
into
it
is
necessary to bore the hole in the upper piece a good deal

larger than the stem, as in the case of
page
c hating (see Cleats,
In rough work, or in unexposed places, the
69).
screw-heads
may be driven
in flush
with the surface, but on
work the heads must be countersunk (driven below the surface) far enough so the heads may be concealed
with putty and whatever finish is placed upon the
wood.
Countersinking is done with the countersink
particular
(Fig. 16,
page
which bevels
16),
off the
top edge of the
screw hole enough to allow the head to drop below the

surface.
Screws
soaped, that
is,
will
into
hard wood easier
rubbed over a piece
threads are coated.
of
forced very hard.
off,
if
soap until the
This also prevents the possibility
slender screws twisting
when
drive
which they are
likely to
of
do
74
Nails are
made
vanized), brass,
and
of wrought-iron, wire (bright
Of these you
and copper.
gal-
seldom
will
use others than the cofnmon wire 7iail for rough work,
the brad and finishing-nail for work where
sary
the
drive
to
below
heads
wood, and in so doing
to
the
make
as
is
it
surface
small
the
of
hole
and copper or galvanized wire nails
possible,
neces-
as
for boat
building and other outside work where nails are exposed

to rust.
Holes should always be started

prevent splitting, and
in very thin
wood
to
necessary to do the same in
it is
The holes
and may be made
hard wood to prevent the nails from bending.
must be a
trifle
smaller than the nails
with a brad-awl (Fig,
i6,
page
i6),
or a small
drill (Fig.
work but of the roughest kind, the

nail-heads should be set low enough so they may be con26,
page
23).
In
all
cealed with putty before the

setting
is
done by means
Carriage -bolts are used
wood
is
finished.
page
of a nail-set (Fig. 16,
more or
The
16).
less frequently in car-
pentry with which to pivot one piece to another, or to

hold several pieces together (generally in large work)
w^here they are likely to be subjected to a strain that nails
or screws would not stand.

bolts in
You
will
use these as king-
making your bob-sleds (Chap. XVIII) and your
wagons (Chap. XXIV), and
for securing in
rowlock blocks of your boats (Chaps.
place
XXII and
the
XXIII).
m^fi
CHAPTER
WOOD
The
work
finishing of
IV
FINISHING
is
equally as important as the
constructive part because the final appearance of the
depends upon the care with which
article
Many
is
it
done.
a well-made piece of furniture has been ruined by
poor taste in the selection of
finish, or as a result of care-
lessness or inexperience on the part of the amateur crafts-
man
applying
master the
it.
With
common
practice, however,
forms of
stai7iing, shellacking,
finishes,
any boy can
such as paintijig,
waxing, varnishing, and
oiling, so
as to be able to turn out a satisfactory job.
The kind
of finish to
depends, of course,
upon
be selected for a piece of work

the variety of
wood
nature of the article and the wear to which

subjected.
and most
as
much
of
it
will
be
For your sleds, wagons, boats, club-houses,

your home-made outdoor equipment, as well
of that
made
Paint makes the

paints
used, the
may be
for indoors.
most durable
obtained
finish.
Ready-mixed
various colors, and this
in
is
probably the most satisfactory way for a boy to purchase

paint
if
he wants a large quantity, but for small work

75
76
where only a small amount
one color
of
buy the lead ground in
best to
oil,
and thin down with turpentine

the job paint may be bought
as
cans.
soft
The balance
much
in this
is
required
it is
of the color desired,
of the paint in the
as
is
needed
form
in
can
may
for
-pound
be kept
by pouring in enough water or linseed-oil to cover
the surface
this
may be poured
again
off
when you
wish to use more paint.
As most
of red
you boys probably know, the combination
of
and yellow makes orange, yellow and blue makes
makes purple, green and red makes

brown, and black and white makes gray. Different shades
green, blue and red
may be obtained by using
a larger proportion of one or
the other color, and black and white will darken or lighten
By purchasing Venetian
the color.
Prussian
you
will
blue,
red, chrome-yellow,
lampblack, and white lead (or zinc-white),
be able to mix up almost every shade of any
color you wish to use, but you will probably find in burnt
umber
or
burnt siejzna
just
the shade
of
brown you
want, and in chrome-greeii or olive-green the right shade

of green, in
which case
it
will
pay you
to
buy a can
of
each.
In Mixing Paints,
mix up
one time as
at
be necessary to complete a job, as
match a color
will spoil the
exactly,
it is
much
as will
usually difficult to
and a slight change
in the
shade
appearance of the work you are finishing.
Try the color upon a piece
of
wood
that of the article to be painted,
same kind as
before you go ahead with
of the
WOOD
the painting, and allow
or not
it is
Brushes.
FINISHING
going to look
right.
Figure 91 shows a number of brushes which
generally answer every
will
The two
you can see whether
to dry so
it
77
purpose of the amateur.
large brushes will be needed for general paint-
ing, the
two sash-tools for small work and
corners,
and the smallest brush
lettering.
Then
there
for getting into
for striping, marking,
and
the medium-sized
is
varnish brush which must be used only for
varnishing and shellacking, and the glue
brush mentioned
in
Chapter
you are through painting,
When ^^^Tl^^'
III.
staining, or var-
wash out your brushes in turpenor if you expect to use them in the
nishing,
tine,
FLAT VARNISU-BRUSH
2"-
^'J^tTT^
'/2--SASH-T00L
mayJ "
or so you
same material within a day
J
J
place them in water, which will keep the
^
Wo. 4
^
Marking-brush
GlUE-BRUSh
paint from hardening without injuring the LunnznD

r-KNiFE
bristles
the brushes are prevented from
upon the bottom
p^^
of the receptacle.
Brushes and
support the brushes, bore holes through
^^"y-^"^^^-
resting
To
if
the handles in the proper places so that

a piece of ware
and the wire
is
when run upon
laid across the
rim of
the can or other receptacle, the ends of the bristles will
not touch the bottom.

In Painting wdpe off your brush
paint can after dipping
drip
it
upon the edge
into the paint, so
and spatter over everything.
thinly
and always
start at
one end
it
Apply
of a surface
of the
will not
the
paint
and work
78
toward the other.

wood,
If
there are any resinous knots in the
give them a coat of shellac to set the resin so
first
there will be no danger of

after
it
it
oozing through the surface
The
has been painted.
first
coat
is
known
as the
priming coat. After it has dried, the work should be

gone over carefully and all nail holes, and cracks and
other defects puttied up (see Puttying, page 84).
After
puttying, sandpaper
all
rough places
page 84) before applying a second

will
be sufficient for
all
In three-coat
priming coat may be
of white or
other coats will cover
it.
For the finishing
any
fill
varnish).
it,
of furniture
and then apply wax or
Any
coats
of the soft
?i
work the
light color, as the
work, the modern method of treatment
wood,
Two
coat.
ordinary work, but three coats
are better for particular work.
Staining.
Sandpapering,
(see
and other nice

is
to stain the
flat varnish (dull
woods and a number
hard woods take stain exceedingly well
oak
is
of the
now
fin-
way more generally than any other wood.

The purpose of staining should be, not to imitate a more
ished in this
expensive wood, as
is
frequently done, but instead to
bring out the beauty of the grain,

or at least to give
it
if it
has a decided grain,
a beautiful soft tone.
There are many prepared
upon the market

which may be had at a small cost, and any paint store
handling these will have a color card from which you may
These stains are made
select the color you wish to use.
in water stains, which are dyes mixed in water, and oil
stains
WOOD
which
stains,
FINISHING
mixed
pigments
are
79
Hnseed-oil
in
or
spirits.
Water stains roughen the grain
wood, making
of
it
necessary to sandpaper the surface after an application

has dried, but they have an advantage over the
in the fact that they bring out
the grain, the
of
much
stains being
oil
stains
oil
stronger the lines

transparent and
less
concealing, somewhat, the delicate lines and pores.
But
for the fine-grained woods, oil stains are easier to apply,
and produce better

Oil
results.
Stains are easy to
With
the
mix, and the author advises
do some experimenting along
his readers to
colors
mentioned under Paint, any
standard shades of green, gray, and brown
and with a
stain
work from, you

of
different
card,
to
The prepared
tions for
stain,
to the
will
be made,
look a
wood
as your
try out a stain
stains are
application.
little
wood than they do on
of the difference in material.
use the same kind of
upon which
the
of
be able to get pretty close to any
when applied
on account
may
line.
manufacturer's sample color card to
will
shown, although they
the shades
this
work
before
Always
made
deciding on
accompanied with
Before using
is
full
the
of,
it.
instruc-
your home-made
sandpaper the surface of your work thoroughly,
then apply the stain with a brush or piece of cloth, and

rub
it
in vigorously with a piece of soft
cloth.
and
fill
muslin or cheese-
Allow the work to dry for a day, then go over it

up all nail holes with putty colored with the stain;
8o
crumbs and apply a second coat
clean off the putty
The
the stain.
ment, but
over the
is
it
oil,
be
left
without further
treat-
advisable to put a coat of white shellac
and when
produce a hard
to
may
surface
of
this has dried to
wax
it,
order
in
Unless you protect the sur-
finish.
become spotted, as the oil

in the stain never entirely dries, and rubs off.
Some very pleasing effects upon oak have been obtained by the author by applying the two coats of stain
in two different colors, instead of mixing them together
and putting them on as one color.
For instance, to
face in
some such way,
produce a green
was
of
rubbed
first
this a coat
green
may
be
of
it
finish,
well
of
a slight
The
it).
into
the
coat of Venetian
red
on
top
grain,
then
chrome-green was applied (chrome-
result
suggestion
The Drafting
a thin
made by mixing
low and Prussian blue,

can
will
if
together chrome-yel-
you do not wish
to
buy a
was a pretty green with
of a reddish
tinge
the
to
just
grain.
Table and Beitch shown in the photo-
graph opposite page 86 were finished
in
this
way.
By
applying a thinner coat of the green than of the red,
and wiping
it
off a little
more, a pretty dark brown hav-
ing a tinge of red showing through
The
it
may
be obtained.
only difficulty an amateur will experience in put-
ting on a stain in
this
manner will be
upon the wôrk
in
using the
same amount of stain

that he has
used upon his sample, and in rubbing it down to the
same tone
but with a little experience he will be
;
able to obtain excellent results.
WOOD
White
FINISHING
must be used
shellac
8i
for
Shellacking stained woodwork, as the
orange
shellac
alter
will
and probably ruin the work.

white
shellac already prepared.
brush such as
shown
is
with
is
thick, dilute
it
must be thin enough
Start at
it
Fig.
in
It
commoner kind
tone
the
is
of
the
better to
stain
buy the
Use a 2-inch varnish

91, and if the shellac
alcohol just before using

to flow freely over
as
it,
the work.
one end of the surface to be covered and
work toward the other end, using long, even strokes

and being careful not to skip any places and not to go
over the same part of the surface twice
uncovered
portions and laps will show through the finish and give
it an uneven appearance.
Shellac alone makes a splendid finish for articles made
of soft wood,
such as kitchen and pantry conveniences,
;
etc.,
and
is
quickly put on.
The orange
better than the white for this purpose, as
wood
a richer tone.
You
it
shellac
is
gives the
can buy the orange shellac
them by placing them in a glass

empty varnish can, and covering them
chips and cut (dissolve)

preserve-jar, or
with
wood
much
as
alcohol.
is
ready to use
Dilute the shellac with alcohol as
necessary to
it.
make
Three coats
it
thin,
when you
are
of shellac are sufficient for
Allow each coat to dry for

at least a day before applying another, and sandpaper
the surface after each coat has dried, to remove all rough-
an ordinary piece
ness.
After the
of work.
final coat, instead of
sandpapering
it,
82
may be
better finish
obtained by rubbing the surface
with a piece of flannel, or other soft cloth, dipped in
powdered pumice-stone moistened with

smoothing the
sides
surface, this rubbing cuts the gloss
and produces an even,
soft tone.
be puttied up after the
first
Filling
ing, to
is
All nail holes should
coat has dried.
necessary in preparing a surface for varnish-
make
out the grain and
fill
Be-
linseed-oil.
wood having
especially on
a smooth, level surface,
a coarse grain, such as oak.
Factory furniture, finished in Flemish-oak, weathered-oak,

or any of the other
modern
the staining has been done
by omitting
effects
much
of the
this
stain finishes,
;
is
filled
after
but you will secure richer
from such work, as
it
conceals
beauty of the grain, especially in the open-
grained woods.
Filling
Paste
The
is
best done by the amateur with a
Filler,
which can be purchased
at
any paint
store.
must be thinned with turpentine to the consistency of cream and then be spread evenly over the
filler
wood with
a brush or cloth, allowed to set for ten or
fif-
teen minutes, and then rubbed off across the grain so as

to
fill
all of
the pores
piece of burlap.
The
do the rubbing with excelsior or a

filler
must be allowed
about twelve hours before the shellacking
may
Is
to dry for
done.
Filler
be bought in the natural and colored to suit the
finish to
be applied to the wood, or
it
may
already prepared In the color of one of a
standard
wood
finishes.
be obtained
number
of
WOOD
FINISHING
83
Waxing gives a stained surface a much richer tone than

Prepared wax can be
varnish, and is easier to apply.
purchased
at a paint store.
It
should be rubbed on with
a cloth, allowed to stand ten or fifteen minutes,
rubbed vigorously with a
Waxed
obtained.
soft
cloth
until
and then
a polish
is
must not come in contact

become spotted if they do and
surfaces
with water, for they
will
require rewaxing.
Varnishing
seldom
is
done
nowadays
craftsmen in finishing woodwork, but

a protection
is
necessary as
upon surfaces which are subjected
so a few pointers are given here.
open grain,
it
by amateur
it
must
first
be
filled,
If
the
to water,
wood has an
then given a coat of
Flow the varnish

over the surface with a varnish brush such as is shown
in Fig. 91, then brush it crosswise of the grain and finish
by brushing it lengthwise of the grain. One coat will
be sufficient for all ordinary work, but two coats will pro-
shellac to form a
duce a
body
finer finish.
to elapse
between
for the varnish.
Several days' time should be allowed

coats.
The
glossy surface
may
be
cut by
Rubbing
it
down
with a soft cloth dipped in powdered
pumice-stone wet with linseed-oil or water.

face has been rubbed
cleaned
off, it
may
After the sur-
and the pumice-stone thoroughly
be improved by
Polishing with rottenstone and linseed-oil, rubbed on
with a piece of cotton-flannel.

In
buying varnish
it
pays to get a good grade, as
its
84
make
better wearing qualities will
it
cheaper in the long
run than the low-priced varnishes, which are usually very

unsatisfactory.
Oiling the surface of a piece of
markings
rich tone.
This
made out
of cigar
with a brush
will take,
a beautiful
then rub
articles
Apply the
boxes (see Chap. XI).
and wipe
oil
vigorously with a soft
it
You
medium
superfluous
off the
oil.
have occasion
will
four grades of sandpaper

for
wood
an especially good finish for
is
or rag,
Sandpapering.
and o
to the
you have worked into the grain as much as
cloth, until
it
and gives
of the grain
work accentuates the
to use
about
No.i|-for coarse work, Nos,
-J-
work, and Nos. o and oo for fine work.
Nos. o and oo are of the proper degree of fineness for
sandpapering painted, stained, and shellacked surfaces.
To
avoid scratching a surface always sandpaper length-
wise of the grain.
For sandpapering
paper should be attached to a block

of
"
The Boy Craftsman
" is
of
shown
surfaces, the
flat
(On page
wood.
a specially formed
block for this purpose.)

Puttying.
now
Putty can be purchased at the paint stores
one-pound cans,
in sealed
at
about
A small quantity will go a long way, and

small
amount
at a time, as
it
air.
placing
can of water.
it
in a
Putty
Before using putty, knead

into
it
the
oil
which
best to
buy a
hardens very quickly when
may be kept
exposed to the
five cents a can.

it is
it
in
soft,
however, by
your hand to work back
rises to the surface,
and
if
the article
WOOD
upon which
it
the stain into
ways best
to be
is
to
it
used
make
to putty after the
in painting,
and
FINISHING
it
is
stained,
85
work enough
of the right color.
of
It is al-
priming coat has been applied,
after the first coat of stain has
been put
on, in oil staining, as the oil soaks into the holes
and
cracks and the putty sticks better as a result.

Painters use a putty-knife (Fig. 91) with v/hich to press
putty into the crevices
of
work, but you can use the
blade of your jack-knife for the purpose, or a fairly good
Home-made Putty-knife may be obtained by cutting
off
square the end of a five-cent potato knife.
As
upon the subject of wood finishing, the

author wishes to caution you boys to
Be Careful of Oily Rags and waste and not allow them
to
lie
a final word
around, for they are very likely to catch
through spontaneous combustion.

of this nature as
fire
Burn up everything
soon as you are through with
it.
By
a working-drawing
is
meant a mechanical
repre-
sentation of an object, either draw^n accurately to meas-
urements or
upon
make
it,
laid
out roughly with dimensions marked
with which a mechanic can get to work and
the entire object complete.
Sometimes, every part
work can be so shown upon a single sheet that no

other word of explanation is required by the mechanic
again, on more complicated work, general working-drawings showing the main portions of the structure or machine must be prepared, and then all the minor parts
taken up singly and worked out [detailed) on other sheets,
forming what are known as detail drawings. In very
complex work hundreds of these drawings are often
of the
necessary in order that the designer or draftsman
make
certain that
may
every part of the construction will
work out properly and that the workmen will understand

his intentions, and in many kinds of work it is necessary
to furnish in addition to all these details printed or type-
written instructions,
known
as specifications, to explain
the kinds, grades, and sizes of materials, and complicated

86
A Corner
of the Author's
Home Workroom.
(For Working Drawings of the Table and Bench see Figs. 147 and
130,
Chapter VI.)
WORKING-DRAWINGS
portions
87
which cannot be covered by notes upon the
drawings.
The average person
usually has difficulty in reading a
working-drawing, for the fact that he looks
at
it
as he
does a picture, expecting to see everything standing out

in a
photographic form.
stands what
2i
And
until the
plan, elevation, and
tinue to have this difficulty.
beginner under-
sectio7i
are he will con-
To make
the explanation
as simple as possible, the working-drawings for a dog-
house are shown
in Fig. 92.
The plan shows
the floor of the house as you would see
it if
a view of
you sawed
through the walls and removed the upper portion, and

then could look
down
squarely upon every part at the
same time. A view looking down upon the roof in the

same way would be a roofplan, and a top view of any object
is
also
known
as
2l
plan.
dog-house, which you would see

at
of the front of the
you could look squarely
every portion of the front at the same time,
front
is
view
if
elevation,
and the same kind
called a side elevation, while
necessary to show special work
rear
elevatio7i,
and
in case there
if
it
of a
view
is
called a
of the side
a rear view had been
would be known
as a
were two side elevations
they would be
named
to distinguish
one from the other, or
left elevation
and right elevation

in the case of a
building or any stationary work the elevations would be
designated by the points of the compass.

the dog-house in two, crosswise, from the
By sawing
peak down
through the base, removing the front portion and then
88
you would see a sectional view

the house, and a true drawing showing this view would
looking toward the

of
rear,
be called a section (see Fig.
92).
may
section
be
taken through an object either horizontally or vertically

(a plan taken
through an object
known
ject is
in reality a horizontal
is
and a section through the short way
section),
of
and one through the
as a cross-section,
long way as a longitudinal section.
A perspective draw-
ing shows the object as you would actually see
viewing
it
from one point, which
is
the view a camera would show.
an ob-
more
it
when
or less similar to
In this
drawing the
horizontal lines coitverge (approach one another) as they
recede from the eye, which produces the same effect that
is
obtained
when looking down
a railroad track
the
coming together of telegraph wires and tracks at a point

on the horizon. A perspective of the dog-house is
shown in Fig. 495, page 390.
Working-drawings are made to different
Scales, determined largely by the size and construction
of the
size,
work.
very small object
may be
while a building or a large piece
would be shown
at a small scale
detailed fullof
machinery
with \ inch or \ inch
upon the drawing representing 12 inches on the object

to be constructed, and different portions which are more
or less complicated would be redrawn at a larger scale
to
make them
(Fig. 92)
that
is,
clear.
The drawings
were made to a scale
of
the dog-house
of i^ inches to the foot;
i^ inches on the drawing represents 12 inches
iiS0
Q.
Trimming Line-
iTi^
UJ
00 ^v(6=V
b
-sJ
^^^
()
X
O
o
~^
02
--.|
^
Q Z
<
^^
qK
CC
%
illll
to
_)
liJ
a
S
<
h
I/)
j'
UJ G
CO '^
i
o.*
UJ
Qio:
,-N3
1
^v^
F/^
^-'^^^^^^^^^^^W^'
..oz
:?s-
o
o
ei-
^^
^&b^
%M
-^2
.02-
"^
^\,
i_
^\^
'^^^'
h'''''
fn
VA
\
Vx
A7
''4'
^
^
.._o.._
'
z
UJ
>s
^\-
^k
89
Sl
5
oS
\
\K^
t-
rSi
'
05
.>
90
of the dog-house.
from
this size in
They have been reduced considerably

order to show them upon the page, but
the ruler across the
top
indicates the original size to
which they were drawn.

reduced to odd
scale placed
ings
have a graduated
Scale 6"
scale of working-draw-
I'-d'
12''
Scale
{half
size)
Scale
=
3''
^ ^-o\ etc. The

Scale I" = I'-o"
Scale
stands for inch or iitches and the mark iox foot
i-o'\
mark
this case,
sizes, as in
usually expressed in this form:
is
''
printed drawings
upon them, but the
i-o" {full size)
Maps and
'
or feet.
Every boy should be able to prepare his own workingdrawings in order that he may work out his own designs
for furniture, wagons, boats, kites, aeroplanes, etc., and
no important work should be attempted before it has
been carefully drawn out upon paper,
for, as
the
maxim
goes,
"Working without
a plan
and work so constructed

in the
is
is
sailing without a
bound
to
show
defects either
design or in the misfitting of parts.
ture described in the following chapter

tailed
compass,"
and
will give
you a good idea
should be laid out, but
many
of
is
The
furni-
completely de-
how such work
of the other articles de-
book are illustrated only by sketches or

perspective drawings, and before making these you
should prepare drawings showing the work as you have
scribed in this
determined to make
Drawing
it.
Outfit does not
need to be an expensive
WORKING-DRAWINGS
one, but as In the purchase of
91
any kind
of tools
usually to
it
pays
buy only the best of materials these are

be found in the medium-priced equipment.
in the end to
may
Drawing-board
be
made by
page 70 and
several boards as described on

Fig. 85, but
together
cleating
illustrated in
you can buy one so cheaply that
it
hardly
The board must be absolutely

edge, and the wood must be well-
pays to try to make one.
upon the left-hand
true
seasoned and free from

winding, knots 2ind other
which points are
defects,
taken
care
you
boards
good
ings
in
the
buy.
of
size for small

is
a student's board,
16
size
draw-
by 22
inches
The
inches (Fig. 93).
board
may
be
Student's Drawing-board (size

Fig. 93.
16" X 22") and T-square and Triangles.
placed
upon your desk while you work, or you may make

A Drafting Table such as is shown opposite page 86,
if
top,
if
This table has a large drawing-board for a
you wish.
but an ordinary table top
may
you have a small drawing-board
drawings for the construction
be constructed instead
to use
on
it.
Working-
of the table are
given
in
Fig. 147, page 132.
T-square
is
used as a guide for the pencil in draw-
ing horizontal
lines,
oblique lines.
The
and a guide
crosspiece
for the triangles for
upon the end
slides
along
92
edge
the
left
left
hand.
drawing-board and
moved with the
is
A
Triangle
45-degree
lines at
of the
an angle
of
required
is
drawing
for
oblique
45 degrees, and a
60-degree Triangle for draw-
ing oblique lines at angles of
60 and 30 degrees
With
(Fig.
93).
the addition of a ruler,
a couple of pencils, an eraser,
and
Compasses, a boy will
have
as large an outfit as he probably

will
FiG. 97. Fig. 04. Fig. 05.
Fig.
94. A Cheap
Fig. 96.
Pencil-com-
pass.
F1G.95.
Compass with Pen, Pen-
and Divider Points.

FIG. 96. -Ruling-pen.
cil,
Fig.
97.
mgs
^
making draw-r-*
shop
^
risfure
04
:7t
&
shows a cheap pencil-compass
use.
which
will scrve the purposc,

...
ût
you Can afford a pair
rr
Chisel-shaped
and
sUch aS
you
for a greater variety of work.
for
if
Pointed Pencil Ends.
latter pair,
require for
-n
will
shown
is
in
Fig. 95,
be
j.i.
better
In the illustration of the-
represents the body of the compass,
needle point
which
point which
fits
fits
into one leg,
and
into the other leg, while
divider points which
may
drawing
^\\\(z\\. is
in ink,
and
either leg of the
the
the pencil
and
E are
be substituted in place of the
needle and pencil points to form a pair of dividers.

Xh^ pen poijit
equipped
is
used in place of the pencil point for
is
the extension bar with which
compass or divider may be extended.
WORKING-DRAWINGS
Swing
F'or
the compass with one hand, as
drawing ink
Ruling-pen
The
is
93
shown
in Fig. 98.
lines other than arcs of circles, a
necessary (Fig. 96).
ruling-pen must be held in a per-
pendicular position, with the ends of

the fingers resting upon the T-square
as
shown
in Fig. 99, so they will slide
along the T-square

ness of the lines
is
easily.
The
thick-
governed by turning
the screw upon the pen, which draws to-
gether or spreads apart the two blades.
The
ink
Fig.
98.
How
to
swing a Compass.
is
dropped betwêen the blades by
means
of the quill
of the
cork furnished with the
bottles
of
upon the end
drawing ink (Fig.
Figure 100 shows
102).
A Set of Instruments which, in

Fig. 99.
How to
hold a Ruling-
addition to the
compass^,com-
pass adjusting key B, pen point
P^^^^^-
C, extension bar >,
and ruling-pen
, has a pair of dividers /% a small

sized ruling-pen G, a small pair of
dividers
//
{bow-dividers)^ a small
pencil-compass
{bow- pencil)
small pen-compass / {bow-pen), and

a box
of leads
K.
moderate
Fig. too.
A Students' Set of
Drawing instruments.
priced set of these instruments will cost about $6.50.

94
For laying
off
measurements,ân ordinary
i2-inch Ruler (Fig. 92) will do, but at a slight additional cost a specially prepared
may be
Scale
making
in
like
shown
One of
Some
purchased.
scale drawings.
while others
ruler,
in Fig.
are
Upon
loi.
these
is
a time saver
made
scales are
flat
triangular in shape as
the triangular scales eleven
12'
sets of graduations are provided
(full size),
3'',
iy\
F> F' T' r/> F' and 3V. In the illustration the
graduations are shown along one edge and 3"
and
I''
and i^'' divisions along the other. Each end division
i^
I"'
jp;^^^;
^\
'
'
'
^.
"
\ " \
Fig. ioi.
'^
''
'
""'
'^
for that particular scale represents
made with
four
^'
ipsw?.
-w
\
A Triangular Scale.
of these Is also divided into twelve parts,
are
'^'
each of which
inch.
Flat scales
or eight different kinds of divi-
sions according to whether one side or both sides are
graduated.
Drawing Pencils are made
by
letters,
6B, which
in various
ranging from 9H, which

is
very
soft.
A 6H
machine drawing, while a
3H
architectural drawing.
If
in
is
pencil
is
grades designated
very hard,
is
down
to
usually used in
about the hardest used
you wish
to use ordinary
No. 4 or No. 5 (equivalent to 2H and 3H

drawing pencils) for drawing upon hard paper, a No.
pencils, get a
(equivalent to a B) for a
No.
medium
soft pencil,
(equivalent to a 3B) for a very soft pencil.
and a
For
WORKING-DRAWINGS
drawing straight
lines,
chisel-shape {A, Fig. 97),
a pencil
95
should be sharpened
which may be done by rubbing
it
upon a piece of No. 00 sandpaper, and for lettering and

drawing curved lines it should be rubbed to a point {B,
For ordinary
Fig. 97).
lettering in ink, Gillott's
Nos. 303 and 170

Pens are most
satis-
No. 659
factory, while a
should be used for very

fine
work.
Drawing
...
cially
Spe-
Ink.
^^-
-^^^'
Drawing-ink
Bottle with Card-
board Collar to prevent Upsetting.
prepared
India
ink (Higgins' Waterproof India Ink
is
almost universally
used) should be bought for use in preparing ink drawings.
This comes
the end of
(Fig.
102).
X-
in
small bottles with a quill upon
the cork with which to
Drawing inks may
An Ink
-X
fill
also be
the
ruling-pen
had
in
colors.
Eraser and a Pencil Eraser
are also required, and an
Erasing Shield (Fig. 103)
is
convenience as a protection
Fig. 103.
Erasing
Shield.
may
lines close to those

erase, as
a great
to
the
which you wish
to
an opening of the proper size
be placed over that portion, and the surrounding
lines will be covered.
One
of these shields
can easily be
prepared out of a piece of thin brass.
About the most unfortunate thing which
young
96
draftsman experiences
on a drawing
upon
it.
the bottle
frequently
after
This
is
is
is
the upsetting of his ink-bottle
working perhaps three or four days

certain to happen sooner or later, if
set without a holder
when
the boy
is
upon the
and
table,
Figure 102 shows
careless.
a simple protection, consisting of a cardboard collar cut

to
fit
over the neck of the bottle and of a large enough
diameter to make
it
impos-
sible to upset the ink.
A Home-made
and
such
Inkstand
shown
Fig.
in
convenient.
104
It is
off
Fig. 104.
Cigar-box Pencil Box and
the
to hold
when
is
is
is
very
corner
partitioned
the ink-bottle,
and the COVCr haS a hole CUt

through
the top of the cork
box
as
made out
One
of a cigar box.
of
Box
Pencil
closed.
it
so
The box
it
will
fit
over
will serve
the
purpose of a receptacle not only for pencils, but for your

pens, thumb-tacks, erasers, and erasing shield as well.
You may use small -ounce flat-head tacks for holding

down drawing-paper, but these are not as easily removed
i
as regular
Thumb-tacks,
the
best
form of which
is
shown
in
Fig- 93.
Drawing-paper specially prepared for pencil or ink
be purchased
in sheets or rolls.
For
common
use,
may
how-
WORKING-DRAWINGS
97
Manila wrapping paper
ever, butchers'
purpose, and, the back of smooth
paper has a good
medium- weight
Out-of-date
surface.
serve the
will
paper can be purchased for a few cents a

chief trouble with the
up when erased, but
common
paper
this will not
is
wallr
stock of wall-
that
The
roll.
roughens
it
be a serious objection for
your shop drawings, and when you wish to prepare better

appearing drawings, you may copy them upon better
paper.
The
known
blue paper are
as
Blueprints and are printed
the
upon
white-lined drawings which you have seen
upon
same way that a photograph blueprint
The
a plate or film.
paper in
sensitized
is
negative in this case
made from
is
prepared
upon
which
Tracing-cloth,
is
a linen specially prepared so as
to be very transparent, or
Tracing-paper,
cloth or paper
everything
upon
is
is
which
tacked
is
upon
down over
traced off upon
the drawing below.
The
a very transparent paper.
it
The
the drawing, and then
with ink exactly as
it
is
cloth has a glazed and a
dull side, the former the right side, but the latter the
one
generally preferred by draftsmen as the better working

surface.
is
To make
the ink flow smoothly, talcum powder
dusted upon the cloth and rubbed over
to cut
any
oil
and
with a rag
which may have collected upon the surface.
Ink lines erase very easily from the

lines
it
dirt
may be
cloth,
and
all
pencil
cleaned off after the tracing has
98
been finished by wiping with a rag wet

use water, for
it
in
benzine (do not
on the
cloth),
of the cloth for ink tracings
almost
will ruin the finish surface
which makes the use
Trac-
universal.
ing-paper
is
used,
generally,
for
making pencil
copies
irjgs^
g.
draw-
of
and
for
mak-
on^ drawing
another
over
when
same
the
measurements
are to be used in
both,
as will
explained
be
later.
After a tracing
been pre-
has
pared
in
it is
the
placed
printing-
frame upon
Figs. 105- [07.
Details
Home-made
of
Blueprint
frame.
of blueprint paper
blueprint
is
made.
frame, you can

scale to
fit it,
glass
placed over
is
exposed and washed
in the
If
it,
it is
clear
of
and a piece
then the paper
is
same way that an ordinary
you own a photograph printing-
make your drawings
but
piece
to a small
enough
a simple matter to construct
WORKING-DRAWINGS
A Home-made
A good scheme is shown
Printing-frame.
may
This
in Fig. 105.
99
made out of
made with the
be
or a similar frame can be
a picture-frame,
corners mitered
and a rabbet formed on the inside by tacking narrow

frame
strips to the
strips, as
shown
in
Fig. 107.
The
wooden back must be provided with a spring attachment

make an equal pressure upon all parts, so there will be
to
between the paper and tracing
perfect contact
Make
(Fig. 106).
piece
end
possible,
if
to
keep
cut strip
and
strip
this
and fasten a
of |-inch stuff, in
cleat across
it
one
near each
from warping {A. and B, Fig. 106), then
it
proper length to reach from
of the
back out
at all points
to
to
reach from side to side of the frame.
D together at their centers, boring a hole

D for the screw to run through so this strip will
turn easily, and screw the ends of Cto ^ and B. Fasten
Screw
C and
through
upon each side of the

frame, and bevel off the ends of strip
enough so they
will slip under them.
The strips must be cut to the
a metal sash-lift in the proper place
proper thickness so that strip

the shape of a
bow
to slip its
this places a pressure
strips
upon
and B, and the
of the frame.
wdll
have to be bent
ends under the
strip C,
The back
of the
smoothed out
wrinkles.
it
it
to
over the back
frame should be covered
with a piece of thin cotton-flannel

place and
sash-lifts
which transfers
latter distribute
in
this
carefully so
must be glued
in
there will be no
cheaper grade of paper than that used for
photographic work
is
manufactured for blueprinting, and
loo
this
can be purchased in
Use a small piece
put up in sealed tubes.
rolls
paper to make a test print upon, to
of
determine the proper length of time for exposure.

Preparing Working-drawings.
Before laying out a set of
working-drawings, the general plan of the piece of work
must be sketched out, and the various dimensions and

All this
the method of construction determined upon.
preliminary work may be done very roughly.
The
first
part to lay out
and sections.
It is
is
the plan, then the elevations
work out a secthe same time, as in the
often necessary to
tion before the elevations, or at
case of a house where the heights of the exterior features

are determined
by the wall and
placing the drawings as

plan
tion,
shown
floor construction.
By
in Fig. 92, the lines of the
may be continued down (^projected) for the cross-secand the heights maybe projected horizontally to the
left for
the front elevation and to the right for the side ele-
vation, while the corner spaces
drawings.
of the
may
be
filled
with detail
In the details of the dog-house, the side lines
ends were projected up from the front elevation, and
those of the sides wêre carried up from the side elevation.
Although there are many other schemes

set of drawings, this is
to use in
your work, which
more complicated work

in the
for laying out a
about the simplest method for you
it
will
is
be more or less simple.
In
general practice, especially
planning of buildings, to place a piece of trac-
ing-paper over the plan after that has been laid out, and
to lay out the section
upon
this,
then to place another
WORKING-DRAWINGS
loi
piece of tracing-paper over the section and lay out a front
upon
elevation
makes
it
The
this.
transparency of the paper
possible for the draftsman to see through the
main widths and

upon the top sheet
located upon the plan and section sheets
sheets and, without having to lay out the
the heights again, to

just as they are
mark them
off
After the front elevation has been laid out, one
below.
of the side elevations is
prepared in the same way, from
the plan and either the front elevation or section
opposite side elevation and the rear elevation are
made
the
by reversing the side elevation and front elevation sheets

and tracing off the similar portions and changing the
rest to suit the plan.
Lay out your drawings with

check up your measurements, and
right,
a light line
if
go over the work and make
first,
then
everything appears,
all
all
the outlines heavy.
Cross-hatch (shade with diagonal lines placed at equal

distances apart)
are
"
all
portions of the plan and section which
cut through," in order to
and which
show which
is
in section
and change the direction
in elevation,
of the
cross-hatching upon adjoining pieces to accent the point
where one piece ends and another begins.
After the draw-
ing has been completed,
Draw
and
Dimension-lines
details
upon the
plan, section, elevations,
wherever measurements are necessary (these
should be broken lines and be lighter than the outlines)

then
fill
in the
dimensions
in feet
Besides the heavy and light
and inches.
full lines,
and the broken
I02
dimension-lines, you will have occasion to use a dot-and-
and
upon the plan

where sections have been made (Fig. 92), and the dotted
line to indicate upon plan, sections, elevations, and details
the work concealed and that which is above or upon the
opposite side (see Furniture Working-drawings, Chap.
dash
line for center-lines
to indicate
show where material
VI), and to
(see Fig. 262,
page
is
to be cut or folded
194).
Always leave a space
in
one corner
of
the sheet,
preferably the upper or lower right-hand corner, in which

to
Letter the Title of your Drawing, your name, the scale

of the drawing,
(Fig. 92).
and the date upon which
may
Draw
This lettering
drawing by heavy
lines.
it
is
finished
be separated from the
Marginal Lines around the outside of the drawing, and

leave a margin of about \ inch
of this line.
Plain
Gothic Letters look best

well
made.
upon the sheet outside
Always
between which
rule
for
and notes, when
titles
two light horizontal guide-lines
to letter, so that
it
will
the tops and bottoms of the letters on a
have trouble
in
making
vertical lines,
angle with which to straighten them.
be easy to keep
line,
and
if
you may use a
you
tri-
m^H
CHAPTER
MADE FURNITURE
EASILY
you have carried out the exercises
If
chapters and studied carefully
no reason why
take
VI
all
of the
preceding
instructions, there
is
you should not be prepared to under-
some simple cabinet making.
This work
better test of your skill as a craftsman than
will
be a
would any
other kind of carpentry.

If I
am
not mistaken, what you boys want to
make
in
furniture are things which will be of practical use for
your own room and for other parts of the house, and
things which will be suitable to give
away and
to sell.
The
upon the following pages have been

After you have
in mind.
turned out a few well-made pieces so you will have some
good samples to show^ you should have no difHculty in
articles described
selected
with
these points
securing enough orders

relatives, to
enable you
business, especially a
at fairs,
to
and from friends and
work up
month or
a profitable
little
so before the holidays,
much in demand.
Many boys are earning money in this way. The
frontispiece shows the factory of " The Juvenile Manuwhen
practical gifts are
103

104
facturing Company," an organization of six energetic
boys of Dayton, Ohio
Masters
Charles Deeds, Pres.
and Gen. Mgr., Fulton Davisson,
Jr.,
Vice Pres. and
Robert Canby, Secy., Charles Whidden, Treas.,
Supt.,
and Stanley Raugh and Evan Whidden.

are doing a flourishing business,
work they are turning out

succeeding so
The
well.
it
is
These boys
and from the excellent

no wonder that they are
firm has issued an attractive
catalogue of 8 pages containing illustrations of their line

of goods, a
group photograph of the
of Directors, an exterior
which
boys,
up
is fitted
in a
and two views
view
officers
of the office
and Board
and
factory,
playhouse belonging to one of the

of
completed orders loaded on
to
automobiles ready for local delivery and shipment to out-
The
of-town customers.
following
"
and
The
plant
is
running Mondays, Thursdays, and Fridays after school,
day Saturdays.
all
catalogue states, in part, the
Visitors are
welcome on Saturdays.
" Only the best materials are used, and no cheap laborers are em-
ployed
"
the officers and Board of Directors do the
The purchaser
getting
more value
"
men
Our
for the
business
them more
You
is
to get a training
with our orders.

give
Company is not only

money paid than he could get at any store,
encouraging a Company of energetic little busi-
of any article produced by this
but at the same time

ness
will
what these
work themselves.
is
which
is
most
practical.
meeting with great success.
Our customers
for their
We
are always behind
are our best advertisers because
money than they can
we
get anywhere else."
have to hustle some, boys, to accomplish

lads have, but there
is
no reason why you
Fig.
Fig. 110.
111.
fû.
Fig. 108.
^1
Fig. 113.
Fig. 109.
^%t::^-^Fia
Fig. 108.
Fig. 109.
Figs. 110
Figs. 112,
112.
Whisk-Bkoom Holder.
Clock-Shelf.
Necktie-Racks.
111.
Book-Racks.
113 and 114.
and
EASILY
MADE FURNITURE
cannot make a success
105
in your
you know of a number of fellows who
would be good workers and would have enough stick-toit-iveness in them to keep up an interest in the work.
own home town
The
of a similar enterprise
if
shown opposite page 104 are especially

good material for the beginner to start upon on account
articles
of the simplicity of their construction.
There are a number of varieties

wood well adapted to amateur furniture making, and
Choice of Material.
of
these are mentioned in Chapter III, while the matter of
Chapter IV.
finish is discussed in
Whisk-broom Holder such as
a handy article for a bedroom.
(which
is
It
shown
in Fig.
should be
108
made
is
out
f inch thick dressed) with the

different parts cut as shown in the wôrking-drawings
of ^-inch stuff
(Fig. 115).
back piece
of
wood
In order to get the

alike, first
draw a
two side edges
center-line
Draw
the curve
upon the other
center-line, tracing
of the
upon the piece
dimensions each side
as shown, then lay off the
of this.
it
is
upon one
side,
then reproduce
side at an equal distance from

it
get the curves alike.
the
off with a piece of tracing-paper to
Lay
off the tapered
edges of the
same way.
pieces prepared, nail them
front piece each side of a center-line in the
With
the front, back, and side
together with
i-inch
sandpaper, putty, and
Clock-shelf
which
is
is
brads, set
the
brad-heads,
then
finish.
a neat
gift,
easily constructed.
and Fig. 109 shows one
Make
this out of
i-inch
io6
stuff (J|- inch thick dressed).
After cutting the top and
two brackets as shown
and end edges
in Fig.
16,
of the top piece
bevel the upper front
and the two diagonal
edges of each bracket piece, gauging the width and

.-CEMTEF
Fig.
117.
Detail
of Back of Necktie
in Fig.
CErMTEQrLirje
*t
Rack shown
no.
Fig. 115.
Whiisk-
broom
shown in
Holder
Fig. 108.
Pftdrvj
Fig. 118.
Detail of
Back of Towel-rack shown
in
Fig. III.
U-,
Fig. 116.
,2--
Details of Clock-shelf shown
in Fig. 109.
depth of the bevels and cutting them as described on
page 71 (see Bevel).
Fasten the brackets to the top
piece with i^-inch finishing-nails in the positions indi-
cated by dotted lines in the drawing.
In the back view
EASILY
of the
MADE FURNITURE
completed shelf (Fig. 109)
fastening
under side
to a wall.
it
shown the method
is
screw-eye
is
slip
of
screwed into the
of the shelf top, just inside of
and these eyes
107
each bracket,
over a couple of nails or screws driven
into the wall in corresponding positions.
The Necktie Rack shown

of |-inch stuff (see
in Fig.
working-drawing
seven brass screw-hooks
with
10 has a back cut out

for
back
in Fig.
screwed into
17)
two
in
it
Scribe two pencil lines across the center of the
rows.
board about
inch apart, then starting at the center of
the length of the board,
hook, and
each
side of
inches apart, alternating
mark the
location of the center
this locate the other
them on the two
hooks
lines as
shown.
Fasten two screw-eyes in the top of the board, one at

each end, by means of which to hang the rack upon the
wall.
In Fig.
1 1 1
is
shown a rack which may be used
either
for a necktie rack or
Cut the back board out of |-inch

out according to the working-drawing (Fig.
Towel-rack.
laying
it
stuff,
1
18),
and procure a short brass extension curtain-rod for the
The
front.
rod will be furnished with screw-hooks with
which to fasten
it
to the board;
in so the rod will set
inch
these should be screwed
away for
a necktie rack or 3
inches away for a towel-rack.
Book-racks of three forms have been designed, for they

are so
to
commonly used upon
keep
in
the library table of the
home
order the books in immediate use, that you
io8
will
probably wish to
rack shown in Fig.
make more than one
1 1
the base piece
each end for the end pieces to

the rack
shown
in Fig.
of the base pieces to
fit
fit
is
in (Fig.
kind.
In the
grooved near
119), while in
tenons are cut on the ends
mortises
and these tenons are held
made
in place
in the
end
by means
pieces,
of pins
The
driven into holes bored through them (Fig. 120).
rack possesses one advantage over the former, and
latter
that lies in the fact that
any time and
compact form.
its
its
pins
may be withdrawn
pieces pulled apart and put
To
away
in a
prevent splitting, do the cutting of
the grooves and mortises in the
members
of the racks
before trimming off their ends, so there will be as
wood
at
much
as possible outside of the portions cut.
(For mak-
ing mortise-and-tenon joints, see page 61.)
After the
racks have been put together and finished, glue strips of

felt to
the bottoms to prevent
surface
upon which they
them from scratching any
stand.
An Extension Book-rack is a little more complicated to

make than the above two, but the work is not difficult.
The rack shown in Fig. 114 is 16 inches long between
the ends when pushed together and 28^ inches long
when extended. Figure 121 shows the details for this
rack.
The base is made out of a i-by-4-inch tonguedand-grooved board, a piece about 3 feet long being
re-
quired, while the end pieces are cut out of i-inch stock.
The
idea of using the tongued-and-grooved board for the
base
is
that the tongues
and grooves
for the slides are
Center
Line-|-
^^^''
FiG. 119.
Sectionthpough base
Details of Book-rack shown in Fig.

-t
112.
6"-
A'^^4'Moi.e
forPin
H^^:
PUANOFBASE
1^
11
5^-^'-^
Fig. 120.
Details of Book-rack shown
in Fig. 113.
-STRIP'E"IS
PASTE NED TO
ENDS
OF'A'and"B\
TOKJGUE-^
,'
I
Fig. 121.
Details of Extension Book-rack shown
in Fig. 114.
miMt-i
in under side of BOaRD'D' strikes
BLOCK'E'ANO-PREVENTS RACK FROM OPENING BEVOND THAT POINT
The nail
ym^
^^^^^^^m^^^^^^^^
'^
Figs.
Section-through Center OF Rack
119-121.
Working-drawings
109
for
Book-racks.
no
already made, and you will be saved the trouble of cut-
ting them.
The tongue on
pieces, Fig.
121), with the exception of a 2-inch piece,
is left
on piece
and
groove
to slide in the
B is
for the
left
B may be
in piece
tongue on
(see plan of base
D, while the groove
to slide in.
ripped from opposite edges of the tongued-
and-grooved board.
width of
piece
Piece
D (without
C should
be cut to the exact
tongue or groove), while
strip
should be equal in length to the combined widths of A,
B, and D,
After the base pieces and the two end pieces
have been prepared,
B to
the ends of
nail
C and
one end
of base pieces
and
the opposite end to the upper
face of piece E.
The ends
of the rack
may
ends of the base pieces, but

place, as the
ends
may
end
it is
better to hinge
be folded
doing, and the rack packed
two pairs
be nailed directly to the
away
flat at
them
in
any time by so
Buy
in a small space.
by i-inch brass hinges, and hinge one
of f-inch
C and the other end to piece D, notching

C and D just enough to receive the hinges.
to piece
the ends of
The drawings show
Strip
the locations for the hinges.
prevents the ends of
A and B from
springing apart.
E
To
prevent the rack from pulling apart lengthwise, drive a

small nail into the under side of piece D, as
sectional drawing, so
strips of felt to the
it
shown
in the
E.
Glue
will strike against strip
bottoms
of the
Of the medium-sized pieces
end pieces and
strip
E,
of furniture.
Tabourets and Plant Stands are probably most in de~
MADE FURNITURE
EASILY
mand,
for the living-room or library
in
not complete now-
is
adays without one or two of these to hold fancy vases,
and potted
jardiniers, fern dishes,
limit to the
number
for them, but
you
will
make
There
no
is
shapes which could be devised
of
probably find the three designs
no
shown opposite page
plants.
of varied
enough character
the construction of one of each worth while.
to
In
presenting the working-drawings for the tabourets and

plant stands, as well as those for the other pieces of
furniture of an equal or a larger size,
List of Material
showing the exact finished dimen-
number
sions of each part of the work, and the

of like size required, has
the details.
amount
These
of pieces
been placed alongside or above
lists will
help you in figuring up the
of material necessary for
each piece of work, but
they are not in proper shape to take to the mill or lumber

yard from which to order, for
it
will
be cheaper to com-
bine pieces which can be cut out of boards of stock widths
and lengths and do the sawing
what
articles
you wish
to construct,
matter to estimate exactly
Of
After deciding
yourself.
it
how much
is
a very simple
material you will
enough additional length and width

over the finished dimension must be allowed on each
piece for the waste produced in sawing and truing up.
require.
course,
In preparing the top for
The Tabouret shown
in Fig. 122 (Fig. 126), first plane
up the piece to the proper dimensions, then mark

the triangular pieces which are to be
off
removed from the
112
them
corners and saw

the
carefully,
legs
off.
will
The
legs,
work has been done
corners
the
fit
Bevel the edges of the
the
If'
exactly
right.
as shown, with a chisel.
diagonal leg braces, or stretchers, are halved at
their centers (see Halved-joint,
page
When
60).
have been joined together, lay them
across
these
the
top
piece in the position indicated by dotted lines on the
come even with, and at right

Then procure No. 9, round-head,
plan, to see that the ends
angles
to,
the corners.
blued finishing-screws, if inches long, and screw the

pieces together as shown (see Screws, page 72).
After making a tabouret or any other piece of furniture.
If
you
find the
Legs rest unevenly upon the
simple matter to correct the
and put a chip under

of
wood
it
it
it
up, then cut a block
under
of just the right thickness to slip
short leg, and, with
it is
Locate the short leg
fault.
to block
floor,
as a gauge, slide
it
this
around the
four sides of each of the long legs, and scribe a knife

line across
It is
each side on a line with the top
of the block.
then a simple matter to finish off the legs to these
lines.
The Tabouret shown
work than
in
Fig. 123 requires a
little
that in Fig. 122, as the panel pieces
127) are tenoned into the rails
more
(Fig.
and B, and the ends
the rails are tenoned into the legs; but mortising
simple operation once

mortise-and-tenon
is
it
one
is
of
has been mastered, and the

of
the most
commonly used
L,5T OF MATER.A.
T
1
1
V,.- Hi".r
1
'/g- X
TOP
i'/e~xiT LEGS
3/,6-xa- xe%-
"/I6- X
-llM
-^^
^Tt
'
/
/
3-CV2'
(C)
b
-25-
'
'^
,t
I
*
1
jL.
Fig. 126.
Details of Tabouret shown
ELEVATION
Fig. 127.
Details of Tabouret shown

in Fig. 123.
in Fig. 122.
^
-._
^^
Side Elevation
Fig. 128.
-î
MORTISES FOB PINS--'
w,
fA
^\ /
j^^r-
"'<
if ^-_5
V
EndElevation
Details of Plant Stand shown in Fig. 124.

"3
114
and one
joints
methods
of the strongest .of the
cabinet-maker's
The
of joining together work.
operation of
mortising and the preparation of the tenons
The
scribed on pages 61-65.
is
fully de-
mortises for the ends of
pieces C need not be more than \ inch deep, while \

inch is sufficient for the ends of
and B. See descrip-
tion of
Bench on page
tenoned work.
of
assembling mortised-and-
7 for
Secure the top piece to the legs by means
round-head screws such as are specified for the other
tabouret.
The Plant Stand
more or
less
furniture.
illustrated
along the lines
by Fig. 124 is designed

of the much-used mission
For the working-drawings see Fig.
The
128.
preparation of the mortises and tenons for the connection

of the stretcher to the
end pieces
will
be easy,
if
you have
carried out the exercises suggested in Chapter III.
mortises are slightly undercut on the outer end to
them correspond with the taper on the
pins,
The
make
and are cut
^g inch inside of the line of the side pieces, as you will

see by looking at the dimensions on the stretcher, so
that the pins will drive the end pieces tight against the
shoulders of the stretcher.
Footstool, with a shelf
magazines may be
for a
den or
simple lines
ings for this
piled,
library.
below on which the current
makes
An
handy piece
of furniture
attractive design for one along
shown in Fig.
are shown in Fig.
is
top, the shelf,
and the end
125.
The working-draw-
129.
After preparing the
pieces, fasten the shelf
and
to
-J
<
to
h Q a uJ 3
z
I
UJ
to
CE
h Z
< o
I/)
u.
O UJ
I
h D
CD
IT)
1
Q
O
X
r\J
2
X
- -
kljt:f^f-..:-tlLt
w///y/////////fy?M^j//w///^
^
ha
h |.H
c _
oO
IL
-J
<
Z
z ^
4
^=cr
"5
'+-
ii6
ends together by means
of the pins,
then secure the top
between the ends with round-head screws.

quarter-round
upper side
(a
strip of
small molding) should be nailed to the
of the top
along each side edge, as shown
the cross-section, for a
ground
in
to hold out the sides of
the upholstering, and a narrow strip should be nailed to
each end piece ^ inch below the top for a ground to tack
the upholstering cover to.
Upholstering Material can be purchased at almost any
dry-goods
You
store.
will require
some
hair for
filling,
cheese-cloth or light-weight muslin for covering the hair,
2-ounce cut tacks for fastening the cloth, leather, imitation

leather, or
heavy denim for the top covering, and large-
head tacks covered
match the top
to
material.
Perhaps
you can get some hair from an old pillow or mattress,

and your mother probably can furnish you with the
cloth covering.
Leather
is
rather expensive, about $3 a
yard, while the imitation leather can be purchased for
about $1.25 a yard

cents a yard.
The
(i
yard wide), and denim
will cost 15
imitation leather wears better than real
and is probably the most satisfactory material to

Tacks with large heads, made of a composition to
match leather or imitation leather, can be bought for
from 3 to 5 cents a dozen.
leather
use.
To upholster the top

of the cloth over
side
and
pocket
of the Footstool, first lay
and tack
it
to the
a piece
ground along one
grounds along the ends, thus forming a

which to stuff the hair. The cloth must be
to the
in
it
MADE FURNITURE
EASILY
loose
enough
117
but as
to allow for sufficient packing,
stretch considerably
may be
it
pulled fairly tight.
the hair into the farther side and the two ends,
use a small stick with which to push

places.
The work
carefully,
and
not
is
difficult,
hollows must be
all
but
filled
and tack
is filled,
it
to
Pack
and
first,
must be done
out as you go
When
along in order to make a nicely shaped top.

near side
will
into the right
it
it
it
the
stretch the cloth tightly over the hair
hair held in place
With
ground.
quarter-round
the
by the cloth covering,
it
is
matter to put on the leather or other covering.
the
an easy
Draw
upon the edges of the wood top to indicate the edge

of the covering, and f inch or \ inch above this draw
another line parallel to it upon which to locate the tack
holes also draw a guide-line along the top of each end
ground for the end tack holes. Space the holes upon
line
these lines i\ inches from center to center, or as near to
make
that as will
all
the spaces equal, and punch holes
for the tacks with a brad-awl
they
are.
Turn
in the
around, then fasten
The Bench
V,
is
in the
it
which
is
trifle
smaller than
edge of the covering material
in place
all
with the tacks.
photograph opposite page 86, Chapter
a neat-appearing piece of furniture suitable for a
bedroom or any
of the living-rooms.
The
details for its
shown in Fig. 130. First, prepare the

legs and end rails, and mortise and tenon them as shown
then, when the pieces have been fitted properly, mark the
tenons and the mortises with letters in such a way that
construction are
w
o
z
oo
_ a
lU ui
UJ
-iM^:
0?
Z
o
in
:
I
<
r.SI
ocq:
LU
.?'|5
..
H.,|ih:fH
,:?oi
'in|5
^5KD
CM
t'
-I
CVJ
Slij
Q is
n|oo
ii8
.J^lr
UJ
MADE FURNITURE
EASILY
you
will
know
just
which
up and which face turns
119
which edge
into which,
fits
is
Next, cut the mortises in
out.
the lower rails for the stretcher, then prepare the stretcher
as in the detail, trim
rails
its
and mortise them
Where
be cut next.
and a tenon,
should be
ends
to
all
the mortises in the
fit
The
for the pins.
side rails should
the joints consist of a mortise
member
when all the
as in the case of this bench, each
and tested
fitted
then,
as cut;
them together and go over

the whole piece of work, and if any trimming is required,
mark the locations. Then take the members apart, trim
where you have found it necessary and sandpaper each
The beveling of the tops of the legs and ends of
piece.
members have been
the stretcher
may
cut,
be
fit
left until this
stage of the construc-
tion (do this beveling with a chisel).
Assemble the pieces
in the order in
which you prepared
them, and coat the end of each tenon and the inside of
them
each mortise with glue before
fitting
the glue has had time to
cut the top piece to
tween the upper
rails
set,
and fasten
it
in place
Before boring holes for the screws,
After
in place.
fit
be-
with screws.
locate
the places
where the large tacks are to go so you can avoid them.

Nail a piece of quarter-round along the top edge of each
of the
ing
upper
rails to
hold in the edges of the upholster-
filling.
wood, then
upholster
manner described for the

material must be cut very
Footstool.
Finish the
the
top
in
the
The covering
carefully at the corners
and
I20
be turned
in neatly
around the
Space the tacks
legs.
about i| inches on centers.
With
the general increase in the reading of monthly,
semimonthly, and weekly magazines comes the problem

taking care
of
of.
the
back numbers with which the
family are not entirely through, for the accumulation

rapid,
some kind
in
is
and a place must be found where they can be piled

of order.
Magazine-racks
made upon
the plan of open bookcases,
but with the shelves spaced closer together, solve the
problem
at the
keeping them within convenient reach and
of
same time
Fig.
illustrated in
As
manner.
in a tidy
131
is
shown
The magazine-rack
in detail in Fig.
135.
the ends of this spread out at the bottom, the end
must have their ends cut off on

The way to get the proper angle for
the diagonal.
trimming off these ends is to lay the end pieces upon
the floor on their edges, at the given distances apart, and
then tack a strip across the edges near the top and
bottom to hold them temporarily in that position. Then
pieces and the shelves
place the finished top piece against the tops of the end
pieces and you will see just
quire.
If
you have a bevel (Fig.
and mark
this angle
accordingly
the bevel the
very careful
same,
or
how much trimming
off the
34,
ends
page
of
they
re-
26), set it
to
each end piece
mark off the shelf ends. Without

work may be done with a square, but be
to lay out each end of each piece the
the
also
pieces
will
not
fit
satisfactorily.
The
Figs. 131
Fig. 133.
and
Music-Cabinet.
132.
Magazine-Racks.
Umbrella-Stand.
Fig.
134.
...
10
J
<
cc
to u.
_l
UJ
z I
liJ
(T
o
UJ
.1
(/5
CM
X X X X
Ii
u_
CD en
O O
X X
h
_l
cv
- - - - -
r-
u.
Q.
J
Q UJ
_1
fe
<
^ h
z I
UJ
2 2
ro
'
cr
in 10
X X X
X X X
lO
UJ
X X
h Q
00
-i
1/3
lU
u UJ
0-
(\J
- - - - -
122
shelves and top are
fastened
the end pieces with
to
round-head screws.
The magazine-rack shown
in Fig. 132 has shelves of
equal length, but the widths vary, as

cross-section detail (Fig.
the
is
shown
in the
Fasten the shelves to
136).
end pieces with round-head screws.
The Music-cabinet shown in Fig.

attractive piece of furniture for a
133 will
make an
music room.
First,
prepare the end pieces and the shelves (Fig. 137), then
after these pieces have'
been fastened together, put on the
back boards and make and hang the paneled door.

best
scheme
for
making a
tight-fitting
back
is
matched-and-beaded boards (known as M-&-B
The
to use
ceiling).
board always shrinks crosswise of the grain (but not
lengthwise), and also expands and contracts to a certain
extent with the changes in
the
movement must be provided
for in joining
gether, or there will be trouble.

net, for
example.
atmosphere, and this
Here the back
Take the
will
pieces to-
music-cabi-
shrink and swell in
the width of the cabinet, but the shelves will not, as their
grain runs the other way, and under these conditions,

the back
boards are wide, and are
nailed to the shelves, they are
bound
fitted
if
snugly and
to split in shrink-
ing or buckle (bulge out) in swelling, for the shelves
move with them but if the boards are narrow,

the movement in each piece will of course be very slight,
and the small amount that there is may be taken care of
will
not
in the joints, where,
if
the boards are matched and beaded,
J 23
124
it
will not
Rabbet the two side pieces
be noticeable.
and the top and bottom
page 65) so
the boards of the back will set flush with the edges, and
plane off enough of the back edge of the middle shelf to
shelf (see Rabbet,
Cut the
allow the boards to pass (see Cross-section^.
rabbets about \ inch wide by the thickness of the boards.
Use
finishing-nails
pieces,
and
nail the
for
together the
nailing
cabinet
boards of the back to the rabbeted
shown in the rear elevation.

The details show an original idea for constructing a
paneled door, which so simplifies the work that any boy
surfaces as
will find
such a door easy to make.
stiles of
the frame are
and mortises are made
The
rails
and the
tongued-and-grooved
left
in the stiles to receive
the board used for the panel

of
of a
on it to receive the edges of

Tenons are cut upon the ends of the rails,
board with the groove

the pa7teL
made
one face to
fit
is
them, and
rabbeted on the edges
the grooves in
the frame.
The
rail
tenons should be about i\ inches long, and the mortises

a
trifle
frame, with plenty of
bottom
must fit loosely in the

space between its edges and the
deeper, and the panel board
of the groove, to allow for the
movement caused
by the expansion and contraction of the wood. Glue

the frame together, but leave the panel loose. A paneled
door
is
usually
opening
it
in
made
which
it is
trifle
to
larger
all
around than the
be hinged, to allow ior fitting
to the opening; the dimensions given provide
this.
for
MADE FURNITURE
EASILY
Buy
which
a pair of brass butts of

to
the
125
shown with
size
hinge the door in place, and screw these to the
edge of the door, notching the edge enough to receive

A cupboard lock,
the full thickness of the folded hinge.
which
edge
sets into a mortise cut in the
of the
door
makes the
shown just above it
(a Half-mortise lock) is easier to put on as the cutting is
done on the inside face of the stile. With either lock the
as
stile,
shown
in
the detail (a Mortise-lock),
neatest appearing job, but the lock
selvage-plate [the front plate through which the ^^// passes]
must be
set flush with the
edge
of the stile.
Upon
the
face of the stile carefully locate the key-pin, then cut a
hole a
trifle
mortise.
larger than the key through the stile into the
After the lock has been screwed in place and
properly adjusted, tack an escutcheon plate over the keyhole

to finish
it
off.
Locate where the lock bolt strikes the
side of the cabinet,

for
and cut a small pocket
to turn into.
it
narrow
strip of
Directly inside of the door tack a
wood
and another down each

strike against.
at that point
to the
under side
of the top shelf
side, as stop strips for the
door to
These must be adjusted so the door
will
close properly.
Figure 134 shows a new idea for
An
Umbrella-stand, and
construction.
The
Fig.
138
base holds a
the
tin
details
for its
muflin-pan, each
which forms a receptacle for an umbrella end.

These pans are made with six, eight, or twelve cups,
cup
of
so you can plan your stand to hold as
many
umbrellas
126
as
Make the two frames of equal size and

enough to hold the rim of the muffin-pan (the
the pan used will determine the dimensions of
you wish.
just large
size of
these
using strips
frames),
inches
them
four uprights of the sizes shown, and fasten

four corners so that they
will just
The
the frames (see plan).
then
wide,
enough
in
frame so
moved
Puan\
to the
conceal the joints in
muffin-pan should
t^n
cut
ing.
it
fit
loosely
the
lower
may be
re-
easily for clean-
should
It
be
painted with a couple of

coats
enamel
MAKE TWO frames)

UKETHIS''
SlOe ELEVATION
Fig. 138.
En"d ELEVATION
fiuisfi.
J^
in Fig. 134.
IS
2i
Roman
shown
,
and cut mortises

the ends of the
rails as
deep to
as
to
-r--
rig. 139
First
rails (Fig. 143),
posts f inch deep to receive

then prepare the front and rear
in the
rails,
shown and make mortises in the posts J inch

receive them.
Next cut the stretcher as it is
detailed in the plan, mortise the lower
end
ends to run through, and prepare pins to

er's
from
Chair SUch
a pretty seat for a hall or reception-room.
prepare the four corner posts and the end
it
well
as
it
register-
keep
rusting,
as
makes
to
glvC
Details of Umbrella-stand
shown
dull
of
mortises.
Read
fit
rails for its
the stretch-
the instructions given upon page
117 for marking, fitting together, and gluing the mor-
'
Pieces
LIST OF MATERIAL
PARTS
4
2
4
2
2
1
l3/i6''<3'/4" X 17
1/2-
X2y2"xl4-
X
X
,.
X 2-
X 2-3i- FRONT *BACK
..
3-
ARM
rTTTi'
Arms
End Rails
3y2-x ,3V2
2-8
x2-3i
STRETCHER
SEAT SLATS
CUEATS.PlNS.ETC
Front-Rail.
iia
8Em/-STRET<CHeR
2 -
'/2
io
îQi
4-
2i;'l<
fib
^v.
'i-SFt^^tî^'f
FRONT Elevation!
Fig. 143.
CROSS-SECTION
Details of Roman Chair shown in Fig.

PIECES
2
RAIL
LIST OF MATERIAL
0*MEM5I0NS
PARTS
V4'X 3V4"x3-4"
LEGS
1
'Vie'x
..
3/B-XI3
'/a'
|3/V'M4-
X 3-
xi3'/2-
SEAT Rails
LOWER
Back
STRETCHER
139.
5/e"X 7
3/4-
XI 5"
SEAT
il
Rail
^
-1
'CORNER BRACE
ii^'l
Plan showing
Ty Connection
OF
RAIL
Seat Rails WITH

LEATHER COVERING) ^
^LEATHER-COVERED TaCkS
000000000
.u
LEGS
^^tTr
K
?^!^^m^^cc^m%%
J SEAT RAIL
^CORNER Braces-*
LOWER RAILS
MORTlSEDl
TO Receive Ends
,'STRETCHeR
'f
OFSTRETCmER->)
.2r
Front. Elevation
Fig. 144.
l|-+-
3-.
CROSS^vSECTION-
Details of Mission Chair shown

127
.1
ê
in Fig. 140.
128
and tenoned pieces
tised
in
Roman
assembling the
inside face of
of the
four
the
Bench, and follow these
Chuir.
Nail a cleat to the

to support the seat
seat rails
then cut the slats to the proper length and

them to the cleats, spacing them \ inch apart.
Screw the arm pieces to the tops of the posts and to
the top end rails, using round-head screws.
slats,
nail
You
probably require
will
mother or
making
in
sister
assistance of
your
the cushion for the
seat.
the
This should be about 2\ inches thick, and should be

stuffed with hair and tacked every 4 or 5 inches with
strong linen
examining
method
of
thread
to hold
cushion,
or
to
fit
bed
even a
mattress,
By
the
sewing together the cover so as to give the
cushion a square box effect
cushion
the filling in place.
havQ
will
^tpj
be''
around the corner
will
pliable
posts,
be understood.
^noug^
as'
at the
The
corners
shown.
Figure 140 shows an attractive design for
Mission Chair, and Fig. 144 includes the necessary
working
details.
waste piece
left
The
front legs
may be
after cutting out the
back legs; bevel
The
the tops of these pieces as shown.
cut from the
legs are mor-
tised \ inch to receive the ends of the rails, the lower

rails are mortised \ inch for the ends of the stretcher,
and the seat
shown
two
rails
are
braced with corner blocks, as
in the small detail plan.
4Dieces of
The
an 8-inch board and
is
seat
is
made
out of
nailed to the tops
of the seat rails flush with the outside face of the rails.
Fm.
139.
Fig. 140.
f
Fig. 141.
Fig. 142.
Fig. 139.
Fig. 142.
An
Roman
Chair.
Electric Lamp.
Fig. 140.
Fig. 141.
A
A
Mission Chair.
Mission Writing-Desk.
EASILY
MADE FURNITURE
129
Upholster the seat as described on page 116 for the

Footstool, only do not put on a greater thickness of
the hair filling than
is
shown
the
in
cross-section of
the chair.
Mission
Fig. 141
is
BACK
Writing-desk such as
easy to construct.
O'
LETTER-RACK
2-3
LIST OF-MATERIALPARTS
DIMENSIONS
PIECES
?2
2
2
BACK LEGS
x2-5îs' FRONT
* REAR apron;
.V,-X4'^'' x2'-3./2X
n'/2- END APRONS
X
..
..
..
..
Front Elevation
in
..
Fig. 145.
illustrated
After preparing the legs
that
..
RAILS
X13/4" X
xiV2"x2'-4i/..X9'/2- X
x45/,6-x
SHEUF
2-3'M- BOTTOM OF BOX
Xl,3/vx2'-l|X 33/4 X 2'- 3-
BAC.<
-.
..
TOP
BACK OF
LETTER Rack
Ve- X../4"X2'-5V2'
CR055-5ECTI0N
Details of Mission Writing-desk shown in Fig.
141.
according to the detail (Fig. 145), cut the end aprons

and rails, and mortise the legs to receive their ends.
Make
the front and rear aprons and cut mortises in the

legs to receive them, then prepare the shelf and rabbet
I30
the end rails for
its
The
ends to set m.
material box
is
completed by adding two boards, one for the bottom and
may
the other for the back; these
As
with finishing-nails.
top
hinged
is
the front portion of the desk
back portion,
to the
material box, you will be saved the
wide
The back board
top.
be fastened in place
neatly around the back legs.
of
to give access to the
work
of
gluing up a
the top must be fitted
Hinge the
front portion of
the top to the back portion with a pair of brass butts ij
inches by
inches in
The back
size.
tised as shown, to receive the ends

letter-rack,
and
this
legs
must be morback of the
of the
back piece must be slipped into place
same time that the shelf ends are slipped into the
mortises in the end rails.
The front of the letter-rack is
at the
screwed
to the front face of the
As mentioned
number
back
legs.
before, in a big piece of
work where
of the parts are mortised-and-tenoned,
thing together,
first,
fit
every-
before gluing or nailing any part in
place permanently.
With
electricity
ing dwellings,
oil
coming
into general usage for light-
and gas lamps are being displaced by
electric lamps.
An
Electric
Lamp with
very simple to make.
wooden stand and base
is
Figure 142 shows an attractive
design for a desk or table lamp, fitted with one of the

perforated brass lamp-shades described in Chapter XIII.
The
146).
stand
is
made
in four pieces (A,
B,
C,
and D, Fig.
After cutting these to the dimensions given, and
MADE FURNITURE
EASILY
beveling pieces
through the center
and
as shown, bore a f-inch hole
of each.
be too long for your
bit,
T31
As
bore
the hole through
it
A will
halfway through from
each end, being careful to bore perfectly straight so the

holes
the
meet
will
Also
center.
bore a hole
same
at
the
of
through the center
one side
of
base
of
as
shown,
meet the
vertical
piece
to
C,
These
hole.
are
Plan of
Octagonal Cap
diameter
made
deta. us of
'Separable
Plug
fM"',
holes
the
for
electric wires to
run
through.
The Socket
lamp
is
switch
for the
Details
OF "KEY
Sîap-
RECEPTACLE'
Wall Recepand
may be
purchased
together
tacle,
with a Separable
Fig. 146.
Details
of Electric
Lamp shown
in
Fig. 142.
Plug and
10 feet of d^ôp-cord for 65
or 70 cents at any store where electrical goods are sold.
The
detail
drawings show the different parts of the
receptacle and plug, and the connections can safely be
made
by any boy, for the whole thing
without any connection with

part of the plug
is
is
live wires,
wired up,
first,
then the upper
screwed into a lamp socket
in the
132
same way
is
that the plug of
any lamp or electrical appliance

is snapped into it.
attached, and the lower portion
The Wiring Operation

twist the
ends
a very simple one.
is
of the wires as
/DRAW'NG BOARD TOP
(31'
shown, and scrape
L 1ST OF MATERIAL
PARTS
DIMENSIONS
'lECES
-J
^tNC
4
2
I'/g-X |3/4- X2--3'/4-
3/,6'X3y.-
..
VS'X
22 '/2'
x2'-5X
V^" X 2'-ll'A'
LEGS
END
..
X7VVX2H,3/.
..
RAILS
APRONS
FftONTRAK
BACK
X
V,6-x53/4-X3'-5''
X
Back- RAIL
TOP
PRAWI1-JG-B0ARD5<>'
-3'.5"
yL
off the
X4 2")
'FRONT RAIL
First un-
BACK
5HELF
/-Shelp
FRONT- ELEVATION
I
Back-j
,drawiivg-board Secured to framcAT each CORNERWITH a 2-inch HOOK,
31
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^\^^^Y^^^^^^^>'^^
END APRON
il
P
lie!/
-t4.-
1.
-|--7r--f-'f
I
I
""
CROSS-SECTION
Side ELEVATION'
Fig. 147.
Details of Drafting Table shown opposite page 86.
rubber insulation with a knife until the copper wire
bared
Then
also scrape the copper until
separate the bushing,
tacle as
shown,
slip
shell,
it is
bright and
and socket
is
clean.
of the recep-
the wires through the holes in the
porcelain base, wrap their ends around the binding-screws^
MADE FURNITURE
EASILY
them
to hold
and tighten the screws
133
in place.
Next run
the other end of the wire through the top of the lamp-
stand and work
out through the hole in the side of the
it
base piece, then screw the base of the socket to
put the shell and bushing back in place.

of the drop-cord
The
D and
other end
should be connected to the binding-
screws of the lower part of the plug.
The
shown
holder required
lamp-shade
the
is
page 215.
in Fig. 289,
Opposite page 86
support
to
shown
is
a view of
home workmany of you
Drafting Table the author has used in his
number of
do enough
room
for a
boys
will
Probably not
drafting to require such a table for
makes a splendid desk table, and

reason working details for its construction are
the purpose, but

for this
years.
it
also
The
given in Fig. 147.
legs,
aprons, back,
rails,
and
lower shelf are screwed together, no mortising entering

into the table's construction.
for the top of the table,
as shown,
by means
of
and
A drawing-board was used
this
is
held securely in place,
hooks and screw-eyes.
large
drawing-board can be purchased as cheaply as you can
have one made, and
it
will
be built up of well-seasoned
material and be properly cleated so that
it
will
not warp
you want to make

A Desk Table, dowel and glue together the top boards
(see Dowel-joint, page 68), or, better still, have this
work done at a mill if there is one near by.
It will
not cost much, and you will save a good deal of time by
out of shape or
split.
If
134
doing.
SO
Of
course, the
desk
table
may
be used
for drafting also, as a drawing-board can be laid
upon
the table top.
shown over the author s table in

the photograph opposite page 86 was made out of a piece
The
Electric Fixture
of brass tubing
end
of a piece of
from an old gas-lamp, fastened to the

tubing from an extension curtain-rod.
Use your ingenuity and construct a

your
table,
if
there
is
electric light in
similar fixture for
your house.
mâ
CHAPTER
VII
HANDY CONTRIVANCES
FOR THE HOUSE
Modern
much
inventions are doing
to
lighten the
work of the housekeeper, and the extensive advertising

of numerous labor-saving devices now being carried on
in the various newspapers and maagazines is awakening
a general interest in
The
women
fact that
sorts of
all
household conveniences.
are adding these articles to their
working equipment more and more, as they begin to realize the time and labor which may be saved by their
use,
should be enough to suggest to you energetic boys
who have an
eye for business that there
portunity to earn
money
is
a splendid op-
outside of school hours, by tak-
ing advantage of the publicity that
is
being given to
these household contrivances and manufacturing a line

of articles of
your own
expect to have
vacuum
toasters, percolators,
there are
many
As
good
Of
course,
you can hardly
cleaners and electric flatirons,
and other such conveniences, but
of the simpler things
struct, especially those
just as
to sell.
made out
of
which you can conwood, which
will
be
as those sold in the stores.
a line of
samples could not be carried around very

135
136
easily, unless
and
pose,
you
as a prospective
what an
to see
built a
wagon
especially for the pur-
customer would naturally wish
article is like, the best
method
of
showing
of goods to those who cannot conveniently

your house would be to take some photographs
your
line
come
to
you haven't a camera, to make drawings

from the objects and prepare blueprints from these as
of
them,
or,
if
described in Chapter V.
The
shown upon the following pages will give

you a variety of good ideas to start with, and you will
probably get suggestions from your mother and her
friends for things which they have found very handy by
adding the latter to your list you can make it more comarticles
You
plete.
one idea often suggests
will also find that
another.
The
ease with which
may be constructed, together with

demand for them is growing greater
Fireless Cooker
the fact that the
every day, makes this a good article to begin work upon.
This kitchen convenience

in
Norway, where
many
it
years, but over there
sils for
packing.
advantages which
of cooking.
fire
It is
Its
it
claimed to have originated
common
has been in
hay-stove from the fact that
is
generally
is
it
hay
is
popularity
use for a great
known
as a
used around the uten-
is
number of
cook-stove method
due
possesses over the
to a
only necessary to place the food over
long enough to start
it
cooking before putting
it
into the cooker, which not only makes a big saving in
HANDY CONTRIVANCES FOR THE HOUSE

the gas-bill,
if
gas
cooler kitchen
time.
The
is
used for
which
is
in,
but also results In a
fuel,
appreciable in
the
summer
insulation around the receptacles keeps the
cooking odors from getting

getting
137
out,
and outside dust from
and from the time the food
is
placed in the
Fig. 152.
Fig. 148.
The Cooker Complete.

Figs.
cooker no further attention

to be taken out
to talk
Cross-section.
and served.
is
required until
it is
These are pointers
ready
for
you
up to prospective customers.
Figure
tacles.
FiG. 150.
148-152. Details of Fireless Cooker.
148 shows a fireless cooker with two recep-
well-made packing-box with tight joints can
138
be converted into a cooker, but as the insulation around
must be as nearly perfect as it is possible

to make it, such a box must have its boards driven toIf you make the box, and that is
gether with tight joints.
the better way, buy matched boards out of which to construct it.
Figure 149 shows a plan of the box with the
the receptacles
cover opened, and Fig. 150 a cross-section.
These two
working-drawings have the dimensions of the cooker
marked upon them, but the
sizes
so long as you allow for the
around the receptacles as
The box should
first
is
need not be adhered to
same amount
shown.
be lined, and for this purpose
Tack
newspapers are good as anything.

layers of the paper
of insulation
a couple of
around the sides and to the bottom,
and over these paste half a dozen thicknesses. The first

sheets form a foundation to paste to; the other sheets
cover the breaks
make
made
in the
paper by the tacks and
the insulation continuous.
Batten together the
cover boards upon the inside as shown, hinge the cover

to the
back
hooks
to hold
of the box,
it
down
from opening back too
bottom
of the
and a pair
to
and provide it with a couple

and a check-chain to keep
tight,
it
Fasten four casters to the
far.
box so that
of
it
can be moved about
of trunk handles to the
ends to make
easily,
it
easy
lift.
The
receptacles are
tin pails
make
the
or
shown
porcelain-lined
best kind
in Figs.
pails
150 and 151.
of
of receptacles,
the
and a
sizes
Two
shown
kettle small

enough
to
into the larger pail provides a
fit
139
good inner
Buy two pot covers to fit the large pails

The kettle will hold cereals and all foods
steaming, and when this is used, the outer pail must be
receptacle.
(Fig. 151).
for
filled
with hot water to within about
Shallow pans
the kettle.
the tops of the pails
in
of food
directly in one of the pails, but
much
fit
be provided for smaller
Large quantities
receptacles.
inch of the rim of
proper diameter to
of the
may
is
it
of the receptacle as possible,
may
be placed
essential to
fill
as
because waste space
draw away the heat from the food. This is where

the advantage comes in of using the kettle or pans when
will
cooking small quantities

be
of food, for the outer pail
Furnish your customers
with boiling water.
filled
may
with these instructions.
Boards
A,B,
C,
and
(Fig. 149) set even with the
brims of the pails and conceal the packing.

brims of the
pails
on these boards,
Locate the
shown,
in the positions
and saw out the openings with a small saw.
Nail cleats
along the two sides of the box to nail the ends of the
boards
to, at
must be
the proper height for the larger
set 2 inches
pail,
above the bottom of the box.
Procure excelsior for packing and dampen

water to make
sior in the
it
pack
bottom
which
well.
of the
it
with
Place enough of the excel-
box
to
make
it
of the
right
height for the larger pail to set upon, and then put in
enough more
pail
pack
to obtain the proper level for the smaller
in this excelsior as tight as
you
can.
The
I40
openings in the boards

in the right positions.
around the
excelsior,
will
guide you in setting the pails
Fill
up the balance
pails to the level of the cover boards with
and press it down so as

Allow the excelsior
as possible.
dry before nailing on
draw out
Make
fill
of the space
tjie
to
to
make
it as compact
become thoroughly
The
cover boards.
pails will
of the exceislir easilyp^s-'i?heir ?sides .taper.
a cushion similar to that
shown
in
Fig. 152 to
the space between the top of the pails and the box
This should be made
cover.
gether across the top so one
shown, to make
it
upon the
You
it
thick
sections, joined to-
will fold
over the other as
possible to get at one receptacle with-
Stuff the cushion with excelsior,
out uncovering both.
and make
two
in
enough so the cover
will press
boys probably
will
be interested to
know
means
of
cooker
preparing rations while the troops are on
undoubtedly,
The cookers used

scale,
that
fireless
the march, and that results have been so

that,
down
pail covers.
The United States Army has tested the

as a
it
it
will
satisfactory
be adopted for such service.
in the test
were made upon a large
were packed with the meat, beans,
cereal, or other
food, at breakfast time, then carted along with the other
camp equipment, and when opened
at the
end
day's march, supplied a steaming hot m.eal to the
troopers without delay

the
an improvement,
method of awaiting the setting up

and cooking of food.
of fires,
of the
hungry
certainly, over
of stoves,
kindling
Pot-cover Rack such as
the most satisfactory
one desired
way
of
shown
141
in Fig. 153 provides
keeping these covers, as the
always
is
within convenient reach
which
case
is
never the
when they are piled
up on a
shelf or in a
drawer.
Figure 154 shows the

pattern
the
for
pieces
of
Space
the
the
side
rack.
slots
as
shown, then cut along

the side lines of each slot
with a saw and remove

the
wood with
a chisel.
Notch the back edses
as
Fig.
153. Pot-
Fig. 154.
cover Rack.
Pattern
for Side Pieces.
shown, and cut the two connecting cross-pieces 8 inches

long
to
notches.
fit
in
these
Nail or screw
the
cross-pieces
place,
and bore a couple
of
holes
in
throuo'h the
upper one so the rack

Fig. 155.
Pantry
may
be
hung up on
Shelf Bottle-rack.
nails in the pantry.
The Bottle-rack shown in Fig. 155 is a contrivance

which your mother will appreciate, as it will hold all
142
of her bottles of
extracts, catsup,
Worcestershire sauce,
and prevent one bottle from knocking over

several others when lifted out from behind them.
olive
oil, etc.,
The
rack
made out
is
of a piece of
board measuring 9
inches wide and 15 inches long, and the holes for the
bottles are laid out
and cut as shown
cutting the board and planing

off
it
After
in Fig. 156.
up smooth and
true, lay
along the edges the measurements given for the centhe holes and square Hues across the board at
ters of
The
these points.
For the two rows
of the lines.
circles
centers will be at the intersections

of large
holes describe
2J inches in diameter, and for the row of slots

describe a circle i inch
in
diameter each side of
the vertical center-lines,
with a center ^ inch
away from the
lines, as
shown.
Cutting Large Holes.
Unless you have an ex-
Plan of Bottle-rack.
Fig. 156.
(Showing the four steps

your largest auger-bit
in cutting holes larger
will bore,
and in
pansive-bit
than
page
21),
you
will
have to bore a number
side of the large circles
a chisel.
156),
In the
first
24,
which
can
cutting slots.)
be set
radius,
(Fig.
and then
row
to
the
proper
of small holes in-
finish the cutting with
of holes
on the diagram (Fig.
A shows the first step describing the circle; B the
second step
boring a ring of holes inside
of the circle;
C the
holes;
spUtting
third step
D the fourth
and
wood between
out the
step
the
trimming up the hole
The diagram
the circle with a chisel.
143
also
to
shows the
E shows the centers

center lines, F the two
four steps required to cut the slots.
marked
I
each side of the
off
G how
-inch holes bored at these centers,
tween the holes
trimmed
good
out,
is split
The
up.
H how the
wood
be-
slot is finally
preparation of this board will give you
practice in handling
chisel.
and
the
the
bit
and brace and the
Place the board in the vise for boring the holes,
and bore only
until the
screw point comes through the
opposite side, then turn the board over and bore through
the rest of the
the
wood around
would do
one
way from
if
is
the hole from chipping
to prevent
off,
which
it
the holes were bored entirely through from
Be
side.
This
that side.
hold the brace exactly
careful to
cal while boring.
verti-
|-inch or ^-inch chisel should be
used for trimming the holes, and a half-round wood-file
page 25) and sandpaper
(Fig. 33,
will
be a great help in
smoothing them.
Nail a cleat to the under face of each end of the board
as
shown
in Fig. 155,
The Flat-iron Rest

housekeeper
will
and the rack

is
will
be completed.
another convenience which a
be glad to have, as
it
is
much
handier
than an inverted pie-plate or folded newspaper to set an

iron upon, and the sole of the iron
rubbing
it
on the piece
half of the board.
This
of
is
may
be cleaned by
emery-paper fastened
shown
in Fig. 157.
to
one
144
Cut the board about 8 by
12 inches in size, tack a
piece of tin (a piece from a tomato can will do) over the
half
which
is
hold
to
the iron, and a piece of
No. o sandpaper over

the other half, and then
tack some narrow

wooden strips around
the edge of the tin for
Fig. 157.
Flat-iron Rest.
rim
iron
Screw a couple of screw-eyes

by which to hang it up.
Fig. 159.
Pattern
into
from
one end
prevent the
sliding
of the
off.
board
Flat-iron Rack.
for Side Pieces
The Flat-iron Rack
to
(Fig. 158)
is
easy to make.
Lay
out the end pieces to the dimensions given on the pattern (Fig. 159), with the top
and bottom beveled and the

back edge notched as shown
then, after cutting these,
prepare three back strips 22 inches long and to

notches, and nail
them
back
strips so the
in place.
the
to the
fit
between the
end pieces and
of the shelves
and
to the
strips are
Bore a couple
flush.
of
bottoms
fit
Cut the two shelves
4^ inches wide by the proper length to

end pieces, and fasten them
145
through
holes
upper back
'^
the
and
strips
]''"i'::izi
TZ^^Z^^
fj^j^f
furnish your customers
two
with
screw-hooks
with which to hang the

rack to a wall.
Figure 160 shows a
good scheme
for
and
Sleeve-board,
Fig.
161
making
patterns
Prepare the
it.
two pieces
shown
for
and
FiG. 160.
as
in Fig. 161, bore
Sleeve-board.
161. Patterns for Pieces A and B.
Fig. 160.
Fig.
the |-inch holes where
and cut four dowels
indicated,
them.
Before connecting
edges with a plane.
by means
of
in
is
inches long to
and B, round
the
that
the
is
in
their
through the edges
cloth covering on
put on, but this
off
fit
dowels in the holes
finishing-nails driven
The
same way
and B.
the
board
of
Fasten
is
pinned on
covering of any ironing-
never provided with sleeve-
146
boards, so
you need not furnish
you make to
it
'
with the boards
sell.
The Knife-box shown

inches wide and
in Fig. 162
has a bottom piece 8
inches long, two side pieces
^"
e-
ENDS
*J
Zi
and
wide
i";
inches
inches
two end pieces
long,
the
2J
shape
and
size
Fig.
163,
Fig. 163.
shown
in
and a center partition

3 inches
Fig. 162.
high by the
inside
length
Bevel the top
the
of
Fig. 162.
Knife-box.
box.
Fig. 163.
Pattern for Ends.
and bottom edges
the side pieces
enough
bottom and end
pieces.
of
make them square with the

Cut the slot shown in the center
to
form the handle, by boring a J-inch hole 2

inches each side of the center of the piece and then cut-
partition, to
ting out the
same way
wood between
page 142
as that described on
slots in the Bottle-rack,
between the end
for cutting the
Before fastening the partition
pieces, tack a piece of
bottom of the inside
the holes with a chisel, in the
felt
over the
of the box.
Scrub-pail Platform will be appreciated
by any woman
who
has experienced the tiresome work of lifting the
pail
every few minutes while scrubbing, to set
different spot, as
easily be
it is
mounted upon
pushed along on the
floor.
casters so that
it
it
in a
may
Figure 164 shows
the completed platform, and Fig. 165 a view of the under

You
side.
will see that this platform
consists of only a board a
quickly as
it
way than
the diameter
bottom
the
of
pail,
of
H7
can be made very

trifle
larger each
the
with strips nailed
around
its
edges to keep
the pail from
slipping
off
and a caster screwed
to
each
of the four
Fig. 164.
Scmb-
Fig. 165.
View
pail Platform.
Bottom
of Platform.
corners.
Towel-roller
is
handy arrangement
for holding a
kitchen hand-towel, and one similar to that shown in

Fig. 166
and finished
to
match the woodwork
of
the
Fig. 167.
Fig. 168.
CUTSLOTSLIKE THIS IN End

ORUSE- WINDOW-SHADE
SOCKETS
LI
PIECES)
KETHESE-,
Fig. 166.
Towel-roller.
167. Section showing Slotted End Piece.
Fig. 166.
Fig.
Fig. 168.
Broom-handle Roller showing Pivot in End.
kitchen can be screwed to the face of one of the doors.
Cut the back board 3|- inches wide and 24 inches long,
bevel its edges, and bore a couple of holes in the positions
shown through which to screw it to the door. Cut the
148
end pieces 2^ inches square, and round the ends as shown

(Fig. 167), then nail them to the back board f inch from
the ends.
Procure a broom-handle and cut a piece from
the lower or straight portion for the roller, and drive a
piece of a 20-penny nail into the exact center of each
end
of
Cut a
for pivots (Fig. 168).
each end piece down to
its
slot
from the top edge
center for the roller pivots
turn in (Fig. 167), or buy a pair of
to
sockets (Fig.
them
to the
window-shade
and screw
167)
end
pieces.
For cutting and chipping

an ice-pick and an
should
be
ice,
ice-chisel
kept within
easy
reach of the refrigerator, and
An
Ice-pick
Rack screwed
Fig.
69.
-Ice-pick and Ice-chisel

^^^^-
169).
Make
Ice-chisel
to the
the refrigerator will

tools within
this
and
side of
keep these
easy reach (Fig.
out of a short block of wood, bore
a hole for the pick,
and cut a groove
enough for the chisel.

Household conveniences such
in the
back edge
large
in this chapter
may
be
made out
as
have been described
of pine, cypress, white-
wood, basswood, oak, and ash, and they
may
be painted,
stained, shellacked, or varnished, according to the choice

of
finish
make.
finish
your mother, neighbors, or other customers
For kitchen, pantry, or laundry use, there

better than shellac, or shellac and varnish.
is
no
CHAPTER
A BOY'S ROOM
The
attic of the
IN
AN AXJIC
average house presents the best pos-
sible conditions for fitting
up a boy's room,
for generally
where a boy
a large unfinished space
is
VIII
it
have an
will
excellent opportunity to partition off as large a room as
he
may
require,
and furnish
home-made furniture and

Usually an
it
all of
to suit his
his
own
taste with
knickknack keepsakes.
attic is the storage place for old trunks, anti-
quated furniture, and household truck, and this could very

easily
be packed together in such a way that a large
enough space for a room would remain at one end.

Figures 170 and 171 show how a room can be made in the
attic of a
fers
house having a gable
from another
in plan
just as the
house
and design, the suggestions
fied to suit the conditions of
but as one
roof,
your
differs
will
attic dif-
from another
have to be modi-
Take
attic.
a run up
to the top of
your house, boys, and look things over
you can
better just
tell
then
what you can do.
Dividing Partition to separate the
of the attic should be built,
first,
the rest
and Fig. 172 shows the
proper method of erecting the studs.

149
room from
If
the attic walls
>5o
o
a.
a,
151
152
are unfinished
Fig. 170,
it
and
will
of
frame construction, as shown in
look best to space the partition studs
directly opposite the wall studs
and
nail the
boarding
on the outside face (Fig. 171); but they may be spaced

3 feet apart, to save lumber, and yet be close enough to
support the boards.
Studding Dividing Partition.

Toe-nail the End of the Studs
Way.
174. View of Outside of Entrance Door.
175. Plan showing Construction of Door Opening.
Fig. 172.
for
Fig. 173.
Fig.
Fig.
If
in this
you run the partition
roof rafters, locate
it
same
in the
direction as the
so the upper end of the studs
be spiked to the rafters (Fig. 172)
if
may
the other way, nail
ROOM
A BOY'S
AN ATTIC
IN
153
a strip across the bottoms of the rafters to spike your
studs
The
to.
illustrations
show
in the direction of the rafters, so
erect
in this way.
it
line,
To
the partition running

shall tell
you how
to
get the bottom of the studs in
run
Plumb-line from a nail driven into the face of one
of the
two
rafters,
inch or so above the
driven into the face of the opposite
Any
may be used
strong cord
should also h^ plumbed
vc^
rafter, as in Fig. 172.
and down,
This consists
Plumb-board.
The
for this line.
studs
as the rafters
not run exactly straight, and for this purpose
a nail
floor, to
of a 4-inch
may
make
board
5 or
long whose edges have been planed up straight and
feet
true,
with a
"V"
notch cut in the center of one end and
a cord with a weight attached tied to a nail driven into
By
the center of the opposite end.
against the side of a stud, you can

is
plumb by
when
(This home-made plumb-board
is
If
The Boy
toe-nail
the stud
illustrated
hang
is
it
ex-
plumb.
on page 13
Craftsman.")
you locate the door
first set
whether or not
the position of the cord, which will
actly in the center of the notch
of "
placing this board
tell
the two
them
Jamb
in the center of the partition,
studs 3 feet apart (Fig. 172) and
to the floor
and
to the rafters (Fig.
173),
then spike a cross-piece between these studs, 6 feet 9

inches above the floor, to form the head of the door, and
fasten another horizontal piece about 20 inches above
for the
head
of the
transom.
it
Next, spike the end studs
154
in position,
and
shown
on the temporary diagonal braces
nail
in the illustration to
keep the studding plumb until
Space the intermediate
the boarding has been nailed on.
studs at the proper distances apart, and, as soon as each

piece
is
made plumb,
tack the brace to
it
to hold
it
in
position until you spike the ends in place.

It is
not necessary to have
new lumber
Boards and studs can usually be bought very
tion.
cheaply wherever a frame building

this
for this parti-
second-hand
stuff
is
and box boards
any roughness can be concealed.
being wrecked, and

will
Studs
do very
may be
well, for
spliced
with fish-plates when too short (see Fished-splice, on
page
58).
If the
Roof runs down to the Floor along the sides of
the room, a partition should be built along each side at a
point where the roof
is
above the
3 feet
behind these partitions
may
shown
in Figs. 176
tween the
floor
and
i-by-2-inch strip
is
and
so the space
be utilized for
Lockers, an addition to a boy's
well be dispensed with.
floor,
These
177.
rafters at
room which cannot very

partitions are made as
Short studs are
fitted be-
about every other
rafter, a
nailed across the studding near the
top and another near the bottom, the studs being notched
so the strips will set flush with their face, as
shown
in
Fig. 177, and then burlap, denim, or dark-colored muslin

is
tacked to these
strips.
The
strips
and covering should
be carried around the other two walls of the room,

to
form a similar
also,
A BOY'S ROOM IN AN ATTIC

Wainscoting.
When
155
the cloth has been
tacked
on,
nail a 6-inch board around the bottom and another board

of the same width around the top, and cut a board to fit
between the
rafters to
form a shelf or cap over the wain-
scoting (Fig. 177).
Fig. 176.
How the Wainscoting put up.

177. Cross-section of Completed Wainscoting.
Fig. 176.
Fig.
A
the
is
Large Clothes Closet should be built in one corner of
room
as
should be
shown
fitted
up with
trousers hangers.
and
178,
and the inside
shelves, hooks,
and coat and
in Figs. 171
piece of broom-handle or curtain-
may
be fastened across the rafters upon which to

hook coat hangers, hooks may be made out of spools
pole
(Fig. 179),
and the
Trousers Hangers (Fig. 180) consist of two pieces of
wood about
{A and B,
8 inches long, with one face of each beveled

Fig. 180),
and a wooden button
(C, Fig. 180).
156
Screw block
B to
parallel to
so the bevels will be about \ inch apart, and
it
the under side of a shelf, place block
screw one end

shelf;
ton
to the
then screw but-
C in
position
the proper
so
when
the ends of a pair of

trousers are
placed
between the beveled

sides
of
can
it
and B,
be
turned
against strip
as a
lock to hold the two

PÎG. 178.
Clothes Closet, with Wall broken

show Inside.
Fig. 179. Spool Hooks.
Fig. 180. Details of Trousers Hangers.
Fig. 178.
shown
in Figs. 171
and
178.
strips together.
to
The Doors should

be made of boards
battened together as
To make
a nicely finished
entrance to the room, conceal the studding around the
doorway withy^;;^^ and head boards, and nail a board trim

around the opening as shown in Figs. 1 7 1 and 1 74. In the
plan of the doorjamb (Fig.
opening
is
shown
at
A, the
75), the
stud on one side of the
finished y<3;w<5 board at B,
and
the inside and outside casings or trim at C; the door
shown hinged
is
in place at
D, and the stop
strip
shown
at
is
nailed around the inside of the opening for the door to
strike against.
Hinge the entrance door and the locker
doors on to the casings with strap-hinges (Fig. 171).
A BOY'S
ROOM
The Entrance-door Transom

together (Fig. 171) and
It
is
AN ATTIC
IN
is
made
hinged
of boards battened
at the top to the trim.
operated by means of a cord which
is
157
is
run from a
screw-eye in the bottom of the transom up over a small pulley in the ceiling,
and from that down to a
nail in the wall.
Figure 181 shows the details for
An
Old-fashioned Cabin Latch
By looking
for the doors.
the latch
screwed
at
(Fig.
place over
calck
C is
do very well
will
at Fig. 171,
you
will see that
is
one end to the
door, the guard

in
181)
which
set
is
screwed
A, and the
into the jamb
The entrance door
board.
should have a latch-string
with which to open
it
Fig. 181.
from
Details of Door Latch,
Guard, Catch, and Button.
the outside (Figs. 174 and

181) and also a
to lock
of the
it
wooden button {D,
on the
inside.
Make
door similar to guard
Few
unfinished
attics
are
Fig. 181) with
which
a handle for the outside
and
(Figs. 174
181).
provided with heat, but
probably you can obtain
An
you
Oil
will
Heater or Stove for your room.
a coal stove
have to run a pipe through the partition and
over to the chimney, and
chimney
one and
For
flue, it will
if
set a thimble into
pipe; but the latter
there
is
no opening into the
be necessary to get a
work
it
will
mason
to receive the
not cost much.
end
to cut
of the
158
If
there isn't any running water in the
Wash-stand
hold a wash-bowl and pitcher.
shown
in a corner, as
attic,
in
make
Fig. 171, to
Fasten
Broom-handle Towel-rack above the wash-stand to
the rafters, as shown.
Get a common barn lantern

Lighting your Room,
been installed in the
A Home-made
1
70.
for
neither gas or electricity has
if
and construct
attic,
Hanging Lamp out of
as
shown
in Fig.
Besides the lantern, you will need a harness snapy
Barn lantern
Fig. 182.
HARNESS Snap
Screw-Pulley
These things are required
6RICK COUNTERBALANCE
for the
and a brick (Fig.
182).
Home-made Hanging Lamp.
some clothes-line and

Screw the pulley into
a screw-pulley a |-inch screw-eye

cord,
it
the ceiling in about the center of the room, then run

the
of
clothes-line
a rafter
over the pulley and
above the wainscot cap (Figs. 176 and

clothes-line
down
the
face
screw the screw-eye into the rafter just
through
this
177), slip
eye and then run
it
the
through a
hole bored through the wainscot cap, just below, and

tie
the brick to the end with cord for a counterbalance
(Fig. 177); fasten the harness snap to the other
the clothes-line and adjust
it
end
of
so that the lantern, whose
A BOY'S ROOM IN AN ATTIC

handle
is
snapped into
reach of the
just
enough
floor.
to
will pull
The weight
down
to within easy
must be
of the brick
counterbalance the lantern
break off a piece.
up out
it,
159
if
too heavy,
Figure 170 shows the lamp pushed
of the way.
Every one
of
you
will
have to suit your
Furnishing the Room, so the
own
taste in
serve
illustrations will
merely as suggestions for the arrangement
of pictures,
posters, pennants, fencing foils, tennis rackets,
and other
things.
Home-made Picture-frames can be made out

very easily
of
of laths
butt the ends of the laths together instead
mitering them and stain the wood in the rough instead
of planing
it
off
smooth.
The Furniture may be very simple,
like the
box
shown in the following chapter, or some

designs shown in Chapter VI may be carried out
wish to spend more time and labor upon it.
ture
You
will
probably wish to
furniof
the
if
you
make
A Pirate Chest such as is shown in Fig. 171 and

A Window Seat as shown in Fig. 170. Ask
make
mother
to
Some
of
make
a few sofa pillows for the seat.
you Boys will not have an Attic
a room, but those of
find ideas
among
your
you who have not
in
will
which
to
probably
these suggestions that can be adapted to
your present room, whatever part of the house that may be

in.
If
you already have an
some ways
in
which
to
attic
room, you
improve upon
its
will likely see
furnishings.
mâ
CHAPTER
IX
BOX AND BARREL

FURNITURE
Grocery
boxes, packing-cases, crates, barrels, kegs,
and much
of the " truck " to
ment, and
wood shed suggest innumerable
for
making
things,
be utilized for
makes them
Furniture
and the
be found
in the attic, base-
possibilities
fact that these materials
many purposes
with
little
can
or no expense
especially well suited to boys' work.
made from
the above materials
is
naturally
somewhat rough, compared with what can be produced

with better wood, and some of it will appear clumsy, but
no boy will object to this "home-made" appearance on
furniture for his
in fact,
he
The
niture
if it
will serve his
will generally prefer
order that his
rooms
own room,
something
purpose
like this in
room may be "different" from the other
of the house.
following pages
which are easy
show a number
to
of pieces of fur-
make, and other ideas
will prob-
ably suggest themselves while you are working upon

these.
The Writing-desk shown
in
Fig. 183
is
fitted
around
the wall studding, which would be exposed in your

160
room
BOX AND BARREL FURNITURE

if it
it
were
may
also
ing
it
in the unfinished attic of a
i6i
frame house
but
be fastened upon a plastered wall by support-
upon brackets nailed
to the wall, or
by hanging
it
with chains from hooks screwed into the wall.
Procure a box about 30 inches long, 14 inches wide,
and 16 inches deep
for the
body
of the desk.
The
top
Fig. 183.
The Writing-desk.
Section through Writing-desk.
Fig. 185.
A Desk or Cupboard Mortise-lock and Escutcheon for Key-hole.
Figs. 186-187.
How to set the Lock into the Drop-leaf of the Desk.
Fig. 188.
Cigar Box for Desk Drawers.
Fig. 183.
Fig. 184.
of this will
form the front of the desk, and then the

be the back, but in case the desk is fitted
bottom will
around the studs, the bottom boards should be removed,
i62
as a
back
will
Eigure 184 shows a good
be unnecessary.
shape for bracket supports for the desk; after nailing

these in place at the proper height, fasten the box to
Make
their tops.
out of
the drop-leaf for the front of the desk
-inch boards
strips (y4, Fig. 183).
and batten them together with four
Cut the two end battens a
shorter than the width of the
leaf,
but
make
little
the two
center ones long enough to project about 10 inches, as

in Fig. 184, so they will strike the
bottom
prevent the leaf from dropping further
of the
box and
when opened
to
shown by the dotted lines. Hinge the leaf

If you want a lock for
in place as shown in Fig. 183.
the desk, go to a hardware store and buy a desk or
the position
cupboard mortise-lock (Fig. 185)

Cut a mortise in the edge of the
this will cost 15 cents.

leaf of the
to receive the lock (Fig. 186), locate
and then screw the lock
in place
(Fig. 185) over the keyhole.
proper size
and cut the
keyhole,
and fasten the escutcheon
slot
must be cut
in the
lower face of the desk top for a pocket for the lock bolt to
turn into, and in order to
make
it
possible to cut this
pocket, the front board of the top must be removed and

a board about
will
make
inch wider nailed on in
its
place; this
a projection over the drop-leaf as
shown
in
Fig. 187.
Very thin wood should be used with which to partition off ih^ pigeon-holes, and pieces of cigar boxes will do
Make the drawer openings of the

boxes may be used for drawers (Figs.
nicely.
right size so
cigar
183, 184,
and

and drive brass rug tacks
188),
163
into the ends of the boxes
for knobs.
To
give the drop-leaf a better writing surface, pad
it
with a few sheets of newspaper and then cover the paper
Figure 183 shows
with a piece of white oil-cloth.

foot-rest
may
Shelf for Books
generally
is
chair,
be fastened to the wall, below the desk.
may
be bracketed to the wall 10 or
shown
12 inches above the desk as

It
how
an
and you ought
matter
easy
to
in Fig. 183.
second-hand
the
more
store, as
find
broken
be able to get a discarded
piano-stool in your storeroom, from

at a
to
some neighbor, or
they are being replaced by
modern
piano bench, and having procured
two
articles,
these
you can
make
An Of&ce Chair such
as
is
189.
shown
in Fig.
Remove
the
chair legs, then set
the
seat
and
back
upon the stool (Fig.

190) and screw it to
Fig. 189.
The
Office Chair.
the top; countersink

the screw-heads,
in
over
the
fill
heads
with putty, refinish
T'~^'^
'^' "".'' ""^ ""^^ '/'

^^âre fastened upon a Piano-stool to lorm the
office Chair.
^^f
64
the chair to match the stool, and the office chair will
be completed.
keg for
A Waste-basket, wash it out thoroughly, and paint it
inside and outside.
One of these kegs which has been
used by the author for this purpose for a number of years
is shown in the photograph opposite page 86.
The Arm Rocker shown in Fig. 191 is easy to construct.
Procure a
The
seat
fish
is
made out
of a
box with the cover boards
nailed on, and the back
and arm
strips are cut out of pieces of
or other boards.
If
boxes
you can
find
a pair of rockers from a broken

chair, use
that
them and you
much ahead
if
not,
make
simple matter to
be
will
it
is
a pair by
its side upon a

marking
board,
out around the
rocker, then moving the chair over
far enough to mark out the second
rocker, and sawing out the pieces
and smoothing them up.
laying a chair on
FiG. 191.
The Arm
Rocker.
Figure 192 shows

to
how
the braces
should be nailed
the bottom of the box, and Fig. 193
should be cut to
fit
over the rockers.
how
their ends
By looking
at
any
rocking-chair you will see that the rear ends of the rockers are set several inches closer together than the front
ends
provide for this in preparing strips A, and be care-

both rockers the same distance
ful to set
will
Screw the rockers
rock evenly.
165
in,
so the chair
to
strips
as
shown.
The
lengths of the strips for the back and arms will be
determined by the
size of the
box used for the

,n
r.
seat,
nn
but in
H,
D D D
Chair overturned show how the Rockers are Attached.

Brace the Rockers.
Constructed.
194. How the Back
the Wide Arm.
195. Pattern
Fig. 192,
to
Fig. 193.
Fig.
Fig.
Fig. 194.
Fig. 193.
Fig. 192.
for
is
for
order that you
may have an
tions, sizes will
be given for a box 18 inches by 16 inches
by 12 inches.
piece as
shown
long, strips
strips
The back should be constructed

in Fig. 194,
Strips
Fig. 192.
idea of the proper propor-
B are
and nailed
to the
2\ inches wide by
in
one
box as
2 feet
in
9 inches
2\ inches wide by 21 inches long, and
\\ inches wide by
2 feet long.
After the back
has been made and fastened to the box, cut the two side
E (Fig. 192)
strips F to the same
strips
i^ inches wide by 20 inches long,
width by 10 inches long, and strips
i66
to the
strips to
same width by i6 inches long. Fasten these

the box and to each other as shown in Figs.
and
191
192, then
cut the right
arm
192 and
(Figs.
195) 18 inches long
by
inches wide
narrow end
at the
and
inches
at
the wide end, and

cut, the lefi-arm of
the same length by
inches
3
Fig
After
196.
Fig. 197.
arms
The Barrel Table.

Fig. 197. How the Table Top
Made.
Fig. 198. Cross-pieces in Open End of Barrel to
Fig. 196.
wide.
nailing
the
in place, brace
the right
arm with
is
which the Top
When
you have completed your
urements
to
make
the small triangular
is Built.
of the seat to
a cushion for
block
(Fig. 192).
chair, give the
your mother or
sister,
meas-
and ask her
it.
Procure an apple or potato barrel for the base of
The Barrel Table
illustrated in Fig.
96.
The
(Fig. 197) should be about 30 inches square
three pieces of boards 10 inches wide.

to the proper length
side.
table top
and made
of
Cut the boards
and lay them upon the
floor side
by
Place the barrel bottom end up upon the exact
center of the square formed by the boards, then cut the

cross battens
of the right
length and nail them to the
boards close against the side of the barrel,
C between
them
and the
again, nail two

at
shown
By covering
Turn the
barrel.
the strips
and
to
fit
and cut
between the
barrel right side
pieces of 2-by-4 in the
in Fig. 198,
fit
close to the sides of the barrel,
the triangular corner blocks

strips
167
up
open end as shown
nail the top to these cross-pieces.
the top with a piece of heavy wrapping-
paper and then tacking a piece of

oilcloth
table
over the top and
edges, you will have a smoother
any
table;
may
unevenness
be
padded out with paper before the

oilcloth
is
put on.
Three boxes
size,
about
of exactly the
3 feet long,
same
12 inches
wide, and 12 inches deep, are re-
quired for
The
Chiffonier
shown
in Fig. 199.
A dealer in
shoes or dry goods will
most
have boxes
likely
of
uniform
Fig. 199.
size.
The Chiffonier.
Set the boxes on top of one another as in Fig. 200, and
then fasten them together
at the
four corners with strips
6 inches longer than the combined height of the boxes.

Nail together the edges of the
to the boxes as
shown
strips, first,
in Fig. 199.
The
of the strips will be the legs, so they
then nail them

projecting ends
must be
of exactly
i68
the
same length or the chiffonier
will
not rest evenly upon
Fit horizontal strips to the front
the floor.
and ends
of
the boxes, between the leg strips, to conceal the joints
between the boxes (Fig. 199); cut these to the exact

width of the front edges. Figure 201 is a view of part
of the
bottom
in place
finished
shown
of the chiffonier
and shows the leg
and how the lower portion

off,
by nailing a
in Fig.
strip
strips
of the chiffonier is
shaped similar to that
202 across the front and a straight strip
across the ends (see Fig. 199).
Cut boards
projection of
make
a top with a
inch over each end, and nail them to the
/-cut here
"
Fig
203'
of the proper length to
>-^
Fig. 200.
Fig. 201.
Fig. 202.
Fig. 200.
Three
Boxes of exactly the Same Size are required
for the Chif-
fonier.
Fig. 201.
View of Bottom of Chiffonier.
Fig. 202.
Fit
a Strip Uke this to the Front at the Bottom.
Cut Spools in Halves for Knobs.

the Mirror-frame Supports.
Fig. 204. Prepare two Pieces
in Front of the Mirror-frame Supports.
Fig. 205. Fasten a Strip
Fig. 203.
like this for
like this

top box SO there
to the proper size, or
with doing
in the
(Fig.
be the same projection over the front
The drawers may be made
of the box.
down
will
this,
169
if
out of boxes cut
you do not care
to bother
you may hinge drop-leaves to the boxes
same way that the wTiting-desk drop-leaf

183). Cut spools in halves for knobs (Fig.
screw two
leaf as
of the halves to the face of
shown
A mirror
can be
put on
is
203),
and
each drawer or drop-
in Fig. 199.
10 by 12 inches in size, set in a
purchased for 50 or 60 cents.
wooden frame,
To
fasten the
frame to the chiffonier, cut two uprights 16 inches long,
shown
Fig 204, bore a \inch hole near the upper end as shown, and drive a nail
taper one edge of each as
in
through each hole into the exact center

of the mirror frame (Fig. 204).
of
each side edge
Nail or screw the lower
ends of the uprights to the back of the top box so the

mirror will be exactly in the center of the chiffonier top
and about
3 inches
that in Fig. 205,
above
Shape a piece similar
it.
and fasten
it
below the mirror
to
to the
mirror-frame supports as shown in Fig. 199, and your

chiffonier will be ready iox finishing.
After making your box furniture either stain

oil stain
or give
it
two coats
of paint.
it
with an
It
not necessary to go to the basement or attic to
is
up a home gymnasium, boys, unless you wish to make

large pieces of apparatus, for you can easily equip your
fit
own room with

dumb-bells,
A
call
chest-weighty chinni7ig-bar^ hitch-and-kick
and Indian
Chest-weight, or
it,
is
shown
clubs.
some boys
and Figs. 207, 208, and 209
give the details for making
exercising machine," as
in Fig. 206,
^STUD
!i
"
STUb-r-
.b
wall in your
=?=
Fig.
Select a portion of a
it.
will
207.
Screw
this.
wall
it
be most convenient to
use the weights, and
the Cross-piece of
to Wall Studs like

Chest-weight
*
room where
IS
frame,
if
that
ii
the
is,
wood and plaster,

locate two of the studs
Tap upon the plaster with a hammer until
(Fig. 207).
you find a portion that sounds solid, make a mark there,
made
of
then measure 16 inches to the
chances are you

studding
ter.
If
is
will find the
left
or right of
it,
and the
second stud at that point, as
generally placed 16 inches from center to cen-
the wall
is
brick, locate
170
two
of the vertical strips to
<
^
w
rr
,
pt^
t3
|Zi
(Ih
tH
^ d
oo
tz;
lO
<1
c^:(
6
1
GO
HOME-MADE GYMNASIUM APPARATUS

which the
For cross-piece
laths are nailed.
171
(Figs. 207
and 208) cut a i-inch piece of oak, pine, or white wood, 4

inches wide and 20 inches long, plane it up and bevel its
Two-pulley Scheme.
Fig, 208.
Two
Schemes
for
One-pulley Scheme.
FiG. 208.
Assembhng
the Weights, Rope,
and Pulleys of
Chest-weight.
Fig. 209.
Prepare
a Pair of Bicycle Handle-bar Grips like this for Handles.
four face edges.
Locate holes
a, b,
c,
and
d,
inches
from the ends, and bore them \ inch deep with a |-inch
bit.
Spike the board to the wall about on a line with
your shoulders, using 20-penny nails and driving them
through holes
a,
b,
c,
and
into
the heads below the surface of the
the
studs.
wood with
Drive
a nail-set,
172
and
fill
d with
holes b and
chips of
wood
cut to
fit
over
the spike heads (holes a and c will be concealed by strip
B as
Cut cross-pieced 19 inches

long by \\ inches wide, bevel its edges, and screw it to
is
shown
board
in Fig. 208).
with round-head finishing-screws (Fig. 208).
Procure two bricks of uniform size for weights, make
wooden bracket for each as shown in Fig. 208, and

strap them to these brackets with a couple of skate, trunk,
a
Drive staples into the backs of the
or shawl straps.
brackets
I
at /,
k,
and
/,
(Fig. 208), placing/
inch to each side of the center and / and
and k
directly
under them.
Purchase two enameled-iron awning pulleys
ware
about 25 feet of sash-cord, or closely
store, also get
woven
clothes-line,
for
The
and
f in
board
These screws
B with staples,
and
to
and h
should be placed
slip
fasten
their lower ends
and m^
and
first
h.
lifting
them
in the baseboard.
inches apart, and
strip
You can make
B.
to screws e
through staples
in the weight brackets,
and
tie
them
either a one-pulley
The
but costs a
latter
little
shown on the
In attach-
and
/ and
your weights as shown on the right
a two-pulley scheme as
tion.
i^ inches
guide-ropes are fastened to screws
should center on the pulleys on

ing the ropes,
and guide-ropes.
lifting-li7ies
Fasten the pulleys to cross-piece
from the ends.
at a hard-
/,
f, then
and k
to ^screws
scheme
for
of Fig. 208, or
left of
the illustra-
way has the advantage of a longer rope,

more on account of the extra rope and

In the
pulleys.
first
method the rope
is
173
attached to the
bracket strap, then run through the pulley and tied to

the handle, while in the latter
it
tied to screw i on
is
board A, run through a pulley, slipped over the bracket
and then slipped through the upper pulley and
strap,
tied
to the handle.
The handles
which,
if
are
made from
you haven't an old
Glue a
10 or 15 cents.
bicycle handle-bar grips,
pair,
may be purchased
wooden plug
in the
for
open end
of
the grip (Fig. 209), then bore a hole through the center
of
it
and punch another hole through the center
cap on the other end of the grip.
tin
piece of
18-inch
heavy wire through the holes and bend
shown
the shape
which
Run an
in the illustrations, with a
it
into
hook through
Leave the bricks
to tie the lifting rope.
of the
in their
them with oil paint, and either stain

varnish the woodwork if it is of oak, or paint, stain,
natural color, or stain

or
or shellac
it if it is
of pine or
whitewood.
Striking-bag with an elastic cord at each end can
doorway by screwing a screw-eye

the head and another in the threshold, to which to tie
easily be fastened in a
in
The upper screw-eye maybe left in place and

lower one removed when you detach the bag.
But
the cords.
the
for a
bag with a single cord
form
for
it
to strike against.
it is
necessary to have a plat-
You
can put up
Striking-bag Platform in your
detachable, as
moved
arid
shown
in
room by making
Fig. 210, so that
it
may be
put out of the way when not in use.
it
re-
174
Make
the platform 3 feet square, battening together
the boards with strips A,
screw hooks
and
of this platform
side
B, and
(Fig.
oilcloth
and
Cover the under
into strip B.
with
211),
to
make
the
sur-
face smooth, first tacking several thicknesses of paper
over the boards
To
if
there happens to be any uneven places.
room door screw
the inside of your
2-by-4
(Fig.
212),
the piece of
inches above your
then
head,
Fig. 214.
Fig. 211.
Fig. 213.
How make the Striking-bag Platform.

Fig. 2X2. Attachment of Strips
form Groove
Platform; also
buckles.
Fig. 213. Block out the Strips thus
the Door has Raised Panels.
Fig. 214. Details of the Swivel which holds the Bag Cord.
Fig. 211,
to
to
for
Turn-
if
leave a space wide

fit in,
and screw
enough
strip
for
end
of the platform to
to the door.
If
raised panels (Fig. 210), block out strips
shown
at a
store,
door trim with

just high
D and E (Fig.
and fasten one end
staples, at
enough
and
as
Purchase two buck-saw turnbuckles
in Fig. 213.
hardware
the door has
ZTand /
of each to the
(Fig. 212)
put them
so the lower ends will catch in
211)
when
the platform
is
hooks
slipped between
175
The platform is made solid by turning the

The swivel shown in Fig. 214 costs about
turnbuckles.
50 cents. The plate J is fastened to the under side of
and G.
the platform with screws, the bag cord
A' and knotted, and A"
Chinning-bar
(Fig. 215).
slipped through
very easily put up in a doorway
is
piece of a curtain-pole will do for the bar,
and the socket-blocks

in
is
screwed on toy.
is
for
should be made as
it
to set
shown
in
Cut the blocks 4 inches

square and make the holes a little
Fig. 216.
larger than the ends of the curtain-
Figure 217 shows
pole.
cut the holes by

of little holes
first
how
to
boring a ring
and then cutting out
the center and trimming up with
Fig. 216.
Fig. 216. Socket-blocks
for
the Chinning-bar.
a chisel
B like
Make
the hole in block
fig. 217.
A, then saw a piece

Screw the blocks
the top.
that in
out of
How
to
cut
Large Hole,
to the
door jambs
about 3 inches below the door head.

The Hitch-and-Kick (Fig. 218) is a piece of apparatus
that will give
you a chance
by practicing the high

be an
0X6. pot
kick.
The
up your leg muscles

plate (Fig. 219)
cover or a cake-tin^ with three holes
A, B, and C
them at D, and
at
to limber
Attach brass chains

at this point
of chain 12 or 14 feet long.
may
punched
at these holes, join
connect the end of a piece
Fasten a small screw-pulley
or a screw-eye in the ceiling (Fig. 218), slip the chain
176
through
and bring the

end down through a screwit,
eye and then to a hook
which has been screwed

into the door or window
You may have
trim.
long
feet
to
graduated into
stick,
and inches, with which
measure the heights
your kicks
or
piece
short
through one
you may
of
tie
thread
of
of the
hnks
the chain, within a foot
of
or.
loose end, and
of the
so
then lay off some measure-
ments upon the door or
window /r^;;^, in lead-pencil,

in such a way that you can
easily
of the plate
up your Leg Muscles.
sition of the
With
the
addition
of
wand made by
pair
dumb-bells, a pair of Indian clubs,
determine the height
218. The Hitch-and-Kick will

give you a Good Chance to Limber
Fig.
220),
equipped
"
you
threaded
link.
and
splicing together two
will
have
a fairly well- Fig.
gym," without sacrificing any
floor space of
by notmg the po-
of
broom-handles, as shown at A, B, and

(Fig.
your room for apparatus.
219
How
to
"^tKictk'êût"
of an Old Pot Cover.
177
Fig. 220.
A Wand made of Two Broom-handles spliced together

End
A Rack
may
as
End.
your Dumb-bells, Indian Clubs, and
for
made
be
like
is
the
board
of
Board
to
the
same
one
illustrated
by
Wand
Fig.
221.
size
the Chest-
weight (Fig. 207) and
is
spiked to the studs in the
same way, while board

is
inches
places for the
and
shorter
Make
2\ inches wide.
bells,
B
the
clubs,
and wand to set in as shown

in Fig. 222, cutting them
as described for the Chin-
ning-bar
Screw
216).
strip
socket
B,
strip
(Fig.
to
Fig. 221.
Fig. 222.
Plan showing
how
to
cut
the Sockets.
Rack
for
Dumb-bells,
Indian Clubs, and
Wand.
Make
craft will
sisters,
your Christmas
gifts,
boys
your own handi-
be better appreciated by your brothers and
the older folks, and the friends and relatives you
wish to remember than anything you can buy, and as

the materials
may
be such as will cost
you can save the greater part

Christmas shopping.
spend
in
work
to friends
it
little
or nothing,
money you
of the
Besides,
usually
by showing your
should be easy to secure orders for
duplicate articles.
many
Probably no material presents as
possibilities
making inexpensive and at the same time attractive

articles as the white cedar wood from cigar boxes.
You
boys very likely know what handy receptacles these
boxes are for stamps, coins, marbles, and the hundred
and one other things which your pockets will not hold,
but here are some ideas for making use of the boxes
for
which you probably never thought

The Material
glue,
at
and
will cost
finish,
any cigar store
of.
you nothing,
except the
nails,
empty cigar boxes may be procured

Pick out a good assortor drug store.
as
178
Fig. 223.
Fig. 224,
Fig. 223.
An
Fig. 224.
Express-Wago^^.
Cart.
CIGAR-BOX TOYS AND GIFTS
ment
of
shapes and
sizes,
179
place the boxes in a tub or
wash-boiler of hot water and allow
them
to soak until
the paper labels and bindings loosen, then,
paper has been removed, bind the covers
flat
when
this
against the
bottoms with cord to prevent them from warping, and
When
put them in the sun or near a stove to dry.
the
boxes are thoroughly dry, pry them apart, sort out the
best pieces
and remove the manufacturers' trade-marks
with sandpaper (grade No.
o).
Brads | inch or J inch long should be used for nailing, and the heads should be set below the surface of the
wood and
the holes
filled
with putty colored to match
the wood.
work with two coats

The oil gives the wood a beautiful
out the markings of the grain.
Finish the
of boiled linseed-oil.
rich tone
and brings
scroll-saw, bracket-saw, coping-saw, or a very sharp
jack-knife should be used where
Cutting
is
Do
necessary.
wood, as the grain
is
seldom
not attempt to
straight, but lay
split
the
down
way in
it
upon a board and score it with a knife in the

which you would score a piece of cardboard then break
;
it
along the scored
piece
is
cut in two.
from the outlines
line,
If
or continue cutting until the
you use a saw, cut a
of the
little
away
work and then trim up with
a knife and sandpaper.
The wagons,
in this chapter
Jack-in-the-box,
and
doll furniture
shown
were designed with the idea of saving as
i8o
much
cutting as possible, and you will see by the
trations that in
many
The Express-wagon shown

a long
flat
box.
in
Fig. 223
Cut down the sides
Cut the front
is
made
out of
at the front
construct a seat on top of the sides as

227.
illus-
cases the boxes are not altered.
shown
and
in Fig.
w^heels about 2 J inches in diameter
and the rear wheels about 2| inches in diameter. If

you haven't a compass with which to describe the circles,
you can mark out the wheels

with cups or glass tumblers.
Cut the wooden axles
making
in Fig. 227,
FRONT AXLE
c.nte-unH
Fig. 227.
axle
REAR AXLE
Cross-section of the
front of the
than the rear one,
tj^gj^
fasten
and
nail
^nds.
wagon-box and
tie
have a small toy horse to hitch
them
to the
Make
their
Drive a tack into the

a cord to
the
to
upon the two-wheeled cart.

The Cart in Fig. 224 is made out
its
wagon
the wheels to
it,
or
if
is
shown
of a square flat
wheels fastened to the center of the under
the wheels about
2|-
you
wagon, fasten
a pair of shafts to the under side of the box as
with
shown
for the smaller wheels
deeper
y
Express-wagon.
as
the front
box
side.
inches in diameter.
The Auto Deli very- wagon (Figs. 225 and 226) requires
two boxes about 8^ inches long, 5 inches wide, and 2J
inches deep.
that one box
You
is
will see
inverted
by looking
upon the
at the illustrations
other.
Before fasten-
Figs. 225
and
226.
Two Views
of
an "Auto Delivery-Wagon.'
i8i
ing them together, remove the two ends of the upper
box and the rear end
lower box (leaving the front
of the
end for the dashboard), and cut
inches off the sides at
the front and an additional piece
from the sides

the boxes
inch by if inches
upper box for windows.
of the
by nailing
together
strips
the
to
Fasten
ends of
Nail a narrow strip across the top of the
side pieces.
rear end of the
wagon and hinge
wagon-bed with cloth
Tack
a cloth strap.
strips.
a drop end-gate to the
Support the end-gate with
a curtain of black cloth to the top
cross strip and sew two cloth straps to the curtain, so

that
it
may
be fastened up in a
Make
photograph.
as
roll,
shown
in the
the wheels and axles like those of
the express wagon, but cut the front and rear wheels,
also the
two
axles, of
ing-wheel and fasten

the dashboard.
to the seat,
the
wagon
equal
it
Make
size.
Cut out a small
steer-
on a short wooden rod inside
a seat and seat back, nail the back
and then fasten the seat between the sides

just
of
of
below the windows.
Jack-in-the-box (Fig. 228)
than you might imagine.
is
a simpler toy to
make
The box should measure about
Hinge the cover to

5f inches by 5f inches by 5 inches.
with
the top
two pieces of heavy cloth glue one piece to
;
the inside of the cover and box, and the other to the outside.
Drive a small tack into the front edge of the cover,
and below
may be
it
fasten a small
hook onto the box
the
hook
bent from a short piece of wire.
A spiral spring from
an old bed-spring
will
do
for Jack's
l82
body, but
matter to
you cannot get one
if
make
Take a
a spring.
of these,
is
a simple
piece of No. 12 gauge
wire about 10 feet in length and wind

ing-pin or anything that
is
it
cylindrical
around a rolland about 2^ inches

it
Fasten this spring with doubled-pointed
in diameter.
tacks upon a piece of
wood
cut to
fit
box (Fig. 229), then procure a small
the inside of the
doll's head, baste
circular piece of cardboard to the top of the spring

to this
Make
sew the head.
on Jack's head, covering

loose jacket to
fit
and
a cloth fool's cap to glue
and also a
his hair entirely,
over his spiral body; for these use any
bright-colored cotton cloth that will
Tack
fall
into folds easily.
the base of the
spring
to
the bottom of the box.
Make
the seat for
The Round-seated Chair shown
in
Fig. 230 2 inches in diameter, the
back
inches high,
at the top,
the seat
inches wide
and ij inches wide
at
cut the front leg 2^ inches
high by ij inches wide.

of Din-
ing-table.
Cut the
may be
The Round Center-table (Fig. 231)
Fig. 235.
Fig. 236.
Leg
Pedestal of
Center-table.
should have a base built up of

four strips as shown in Fig. 235.
circular top 5 inches
in diameter.
saucer
used with which to mark this out.
Select a long
flat
box
for
The Dining-table shown in Fig. 232, and
after
making

four built-up legs as
shown
in Fig.
183
236 fasten them into
the four corners of the box.
In making the
little
Square-seated Chair (Fig. 233), cut the seat about 2
inches wide by 2J inches deep, the front legs 2|- inches

-| inch wide, and the back legs 4^ inches high
high by
by
I"
Brace the legs and back with cross-
inch wide.
and you
pieces,
room
have a very firm and
will
artistic dining-
chair.
Select a box about 9 inches by 5 inches by 2J inches

in size for
The
making
shown
Doll's Cradle
Cut the two

237 and fasten them to
Fig.
in
rockers by the pattern in Fig.

the bottom of the box
234.
inch
Use the rim
from the ends.
of a breakfast plate in draw-
ing the arc of the rockers.
The Key-board shown in

Fig. 238
is
one
Fig. 237.
Pattern
of the sim-
for Cradle
Rockers.
made.
plest gifts that can be
Follow the dimensions given
upon the pattern

in
laying
Where two
correspond,
ter-line,
of
tissue
the
first
it
board.
sides of a piece
then
side, trace
(Fig. 243)
out
off
draw a cen-
lay
out
upon
paper,
one
a piece
turn
the
-r4
2^
>!
Fig. 243.
Pattern
for
Key-board.
84
upon the other
side of the
this in laying out all
your work
paper over and reproduce

center-line.
you
By doing
have no trouble
will
Bore gimlet holes
key board, then there

the wood.
and
will
it
in
B
be
getting the sides alike.

before
little
cutting
danger
out the
of splitting
Space the brass hooks as shown
in
the
photograph.
The Corner Clock-shelf (Fig. 239) is built up of several pieces of wood, the shelf (Fig. 244) consisting of
Fig. 245.
Fig. 247.
Fig
244. Shelf of Corner Clock-shelf.
Bracket of Corner Clock-shelf.

Pattern of Shelf Pieces.
Fig. 247. Pattern of Bracket Pieces.
Fig. 245.
Fig. 246.
pieces
and E,
and B, and the bracket (Fig. 245) of C D,

Figure 246 shows the pattern for A and B,
After cutting these pieces trim \ inch off of the front
edge
face
B (see dotted line, Fig. 246). Cover the

of A and the upper face of B with glue, then
of
them together with the
side edges flush
lower
place
and the front
Fig. 239.
Fig. 340.
Fig. 338.
Fig. 240.
Fig. 342.
Fig. 338.
Fig. 239. A Corner Clock-Shelf.

Holder. Fig. 341. A Kitchen Match-Box.
A Cottage Pipe-Rack and Match-Box.
A Key-Board.
A Whisk-Broom
ii

edge
of
185
Cut the three
projecting over that of B.
bracket pieces as shown in Fig. 247, then cut \ inch off
long or front edge
of the
Fig. 247) so that

of
D will project
The
shelf
when they
beyond
to
and
E (see
dotted Hne,
are nailed together the edge
and
E as shown
in Fig. 245.
and bracket should be placed under a heavy
weight until the glue has
how
of
hang the
set.
The photograph shows
shelf in the corner
by means
of brads
and screw-eyes, the brads being driven into the under

side of the shelf
them
and the eyes screwed into the wall
for
to stick through.
Whisk-broom Holder such as
is
shown
in Fig.
240
is
a gift which any one will appreciate for his or her room.
Make
the back and front pieces
similar
to
and
(Fig.
248) and cut the side pieces
4^^ inches high by i^ inches

wide.
Place the side pieces
between the front and back
in
putting the holder together.
large match-box
is
a very
handy article for the kitchen,

where the supply of matches
Fig. 248.
generally disappears so rapidly

that an ordinary size of
or
so,
Patterns
for V^hisk-
broom Holder.
box requires
refilling
every day
and
The Kitchen Match-box shown
in Fig.
241 will be ap-
preciated by your mother, because the large receptacle in
i86
The
the lower portion will hold a iulY box of matches.
upper part
of the
box
intended for burnt matches.
is
Figure 249 shows the patterns for the different pieces.
is
the back,
B the
Fig. 249.
ceptacle,
and
Patterns
for
the front of the upper re-
Kitchen Match-box.
the front of the lower receptacle.
sides these pieces
by the length of
ends,
you
will
C for the
need a piece i^ inches wide
bottom
of the
upper receptacle
and a piece 2J inches wide by the length

bottom of the lower one. The photograph
how
to put the pieces together.
completed and given
its
sandpaper to the bottom
A
pipe
will
show you
After the box has been
oil finish,
of the
of > for the
glue a strip of No. o
lower receptacle.
gift suitable for the relative or friend
who smokes
is
The Cottage Pipe-rack and Match-box shown

242.
Be-
The
little
cottages are
made out
Fig.
in
of cigar-box
wood,
but the back and bottom pieces (Fig. 250) are cut out of
thicker material
will do.
^-inch pine, whitewood, or basswood
Figure 251 shows the dimensions for the
cot-

tages and the
method
187
them together.
of putting
end cottages are match-boxes, cut an opening
As
the
in the outer
Use glue and |-inch
side of their roofs as in Fig. 251
Fig. 250.
Fig. 251.
Fig. 250.
Patterns for Back and Bottom Pieces of Cottage Pipe-rack and
Match-box.
Details of Cottages.
Fig. 252.
Patterns for Paper Doors and Windows.
Fig. 251.
brads in fastening the pieces, also cloth strips for attaching the roof.
Give the cottages two coats
of linseed-oil,
the top and edges of the roofs red
the under side white.
With
then paint
Ve7ietiaii red)
and
a rule and pencil lay out
the doors
and windows upon a piece of white
letter-
paper, then
draw the
green
lines in ink, paint the shutters
and the glass black (use
water-colors),
divisions in the glass with white
and mark
off the
then cut these out and
glue them on to the cottages as shown in the photograph.
After the back and bottom pieces have been cut and
i88
the holes have been bored in the^bottom piece (Fig. 250),
rub them
edge
down with sandpaper and
of the
bottom
nail the
back to the
Give the back piece two coats
piece.
form a pretty
of white lead
and chrome-yellow (mixed
cream
and the bottom piece two coats
color)
Glue the cottages
green.
shown
the roofs, paint
fit
place,
of olive-
spacing them as
photograph, then cut out the
in the
neys to
in
to
little
chim-
them red with white caps
{Venetian red and white lead), and glue them in place.
Cut the
trees out of a piece of cigar-box
green, and fasten
them
wood, paint them
back piece with brads.
to the
Screw two screw-eyes into the top edge of the back piece
and glue a strip of sandpaper below each end cottage on
which to strike matches.
Two, three, and four cottage pipe-racks may be made
by changing the proportions of the back and bottom
pieces,
and
Cottage Match-box,
made by attaching a single cotA, Fig. 249, will be a
tage to a back piece similar to

pretty
gift.
The
cottage
may
center for good and burnt
opening must be cut
Among
the
in
be divided through the
matches, in which case an
each side
of the roof.
many
Other Gifts which
may
be made out of cigar boxes are
a letter opener, a hall letter-rack, a cube-shaped box

stri7tg,
for
a tooth-brush rack, a glove box, and a handker-
chief box.
Use your ingenuity and work out your own
designs for these.
The toys shown opposite page

many mechanical toys which can
190 are a few of the

be operated by clock
work, and they are easy to make, too, requiring no more
mechanical ability than
is
possessed by the average boy
old enough to handle the simplest of
Generally
is
it
tools.
easy to find an old clock somewhere
about the house, and a clock which has been discarded

simply because
is
perfectly
mainsprmg
have a
it
good
is
in
has become worthless as a timekeeper

for operating these toys, provided the
working
works
set of
for
order.
each
It is
toy, for
fastened in place that but a minute

fer the
not necessary to
they are so quickly

is
required to trans-
works from one toy to another.
Before
commencing work upon the
The Other Necessary Materials.
toys, get together
These
will consist of
cigar boxes, cardboard, cotton or silk spools, glue, brads,
and a few pieces from the woodpile, with one or two additional articles
|-
inch and
which are mentioned
inch
in length
later on.
Brads
should be purchased for
fastening the framework of the toys together, and the
TQO
cigar boxes should be about 8 inches by 4 inches by
inches in
Remove
size.
the paper from the boxes
as described in the preceding chapter.
To prepare the Clockwork for use, remove

case,
from
its
detach the hands and face, and pry off the small
wheel pivoted directly under the hands
shown
at
in Fig. 257.
Remove
Fig. 257.
Box has been
(Fig. 257)
this
wheel
is
>i
How the Clockwork Motor
(This
also iho: balance-wheel
it
cut
down
to the
and the lever
is
fastened to the Cigar-box Cover.
Proper Length
for the Ferris
C pivoted
Wheel.)
next to
it,
to in-
crease the speed of the remaining wheels.
Fasten the clockwork motor for
The Merry-go-round shown
in Fig.
253 to the cover of
CLOCKWORK TOYS
191
a cigar box, as illustrated in Figs. 254 and 257, boring

holes through the cover with a gimlet for the pivot ends
on the back
of the
works to
Remove
set into.
the lower
and fasten the spool

the clockwork in the position
flange from a spool {D, Fig. 257)
on
to the central pivot of
formerly occupied by wheel
To do
sealing-wax.
this,
above the spool and melt

ing
The
A.
hole in the spool
be too large for the pivot and must be
will
it
full,
spool,
it is
with a lighted match, allow-
down with
compact, smooth
and make a dent
in
being careful
in
off
it
and press
doing so
to
is
about half
the end of a match
on the bottom
of the
with a pencil to indicate the
Heat the end
exact center of the hole.

a lighted match,
it
up with
hold a piece of sealing-wax
to drip into the hole until the latter
then press the wax
until
it
filled
it
of the pivot with
into the dent in the wax.
get the spool straight upon
Cut a hole through the bottom of the cigar

box belonging to the cover to which you have attached
the pivot.
the works, for spool
D to project through (Fig.
257).
To make the Standard for the merry-go-round, cut four

strips of
wood 8 inches
long,
and fasten one
each
to
corner of the cigar box, turning the bottom side of the
box up; then cut a piece

square, locate
from corner
its
center
to corner as
hole through
it
of
F by
shown
|-inch board
10 inches
drawing diagonal
lines
in Fig. 258, bore a i-inch
at this point for spool
(Fig. 254),
and
then nail the box to the center of the board as shown in

Fig. 258.
[92
as
shown
upon heavy white paper
laid out
The Tent should be
After describing a circle with a
in Fig. 259.
radius of 9 inches, describe
another
Fig. 258.
circle
Plan
of
within
Top
it
Fig. 259.
of Stand-
Pattern
for
Tent of Merry-
go-round.
ard for Merry-go-round.
with a radius of 7J inches, this inner circle (shown by

dotted lines in the diagram) being drawn for a guide in
Cut out the tent
fastening the tent upon its tent-poles.
along the outer

it
the
FiG. 260.
The Tent ready
to be
fastened upon a Tent-pole.
KL
of
KL
over to about
a cloth to
make
twcen
the standard top
(6^,
KL
lines
NL, and
of
rub
and
ML
ML
down
with glue, lap

the edges with
between the pieces as
Bore a hole through each corner
H,
/,
in
Covcr the under
the diagram.
as neat a joint
possible (Fig. 260).
and from
included be-
size of that
and the upper edge
edge
circle,
cut a triangular piece about
and/, Fig.
of
258), then cut four
Fig. 254.
A Clockwork
Motor.
-pi^^
gse
\\
CLOCKWORK TOYS
sticks 7 Inches long,
glue them
The
sandpaper them
When
the tent has dried, tack
the ends of the poles, being careful to
upon them
and
The Horses.
it
Fig. 261.
it
to
set evenly
to the
edge
all
around as shown
in
stick a small flag in the peak.
Take
Fig. 261.
make
it
cut a scalloped border out of red or blue
paper and paste
full-size pattern for
these
is
shown
in
a piece of tracing-paper or any thin
Full-size Pattern for the Horses of the Merry-go-round.
transparent paper, and place
make an
smooth, and
until
into these holes for
Tent-poles.
Fig. 253,
193
exact copy
it
over the
pattern
and
then rub a soft lead-pencil over
the other side of the paper, turn the paper over with the
194
blackened side down, and transfer the drawing six times
upon a piece
of light-weight cardboard.
Paint the horses
with water-colors, using the pattern as a guide for shading
and marking them, then cut them out with a sharp knife
or a pair of scissors.
Figure 262 shows the pattern for
Draw
The Sleighs.
board, cut
it
out and fold along the dotted lines, then turn
r-'--rH-f-^
'lOlCD
1
a
J
J,
1=1
out upon a piece of card-
this
.__^|--HI
~i
rri
Side
-kv
r-i^
If
p M
/lap
\Jl^~Bend Along Dotted LinesK^

dashboard;
Bottom
=_i'^
1-4
:
5;
Back
î"
^..,^-^''''
'I-'"
3019
'-L
Seats
)t
dvnj
f
+
in the flaps
back.
Pattern
for the
and glue them
\\
Merry-go-round Sleighs.
to the
dashboard and
to the
Cut two seats by the pattern given, bend down
the flaps and glue
make
Fig. 262.
them
to the sides of the sleigh,
and
the back for the front seat like that on the back
seat (Fig. 263).
Then make another
sleigh similar to
the one just completed, for two are required for the merry-
go-round.
mings
Paint the sleighs green or yellow with trim-
of a lighter shade.
CLOCKWORK TOYS
195
Figure 254 shows

The Shafts upon which the horses and sleighs are
mounted.
Cut them 5^ inches
long, whittle
has five holes bored in
it
them round,
The
and rub them down with sandpaper.

fastened in a spool hub which
shafts are
{E,
Fig. 254); bore the holes with
a gimlet or small
them
off first
marking
drill,
with a pencil to
be sure of getting them spaced

Point the
at equal distances.
ends
of the shafts
and glue them
A Completed Sleigh
showing Attachment to Shaft.
Fig. 263.
into the holes in the hub, then connect this spool to spool
D with a piece of a lead-pencil 2 inches long (Fig. 254).

To
horses
the
fasten
through three
of
them
at
to
punch a hole
261) and slip each one
the shafts,
X (Fig.
over a shaft, then tack the other three horses to the ends
of these shafts at the point
X.
To
fasten the sleighs to
the remaining shafts, glue one end of a piece of paper to
the back of the front seat and the other end around the
shaft (Fig. 263).
The
Girl Riders for the sleighs are
shown
full size in
shown
full
Fig. 264, and
The Boy Riders

Fig. 265.
Make
that of the horse
for the horses are
tracings from the patterns as you
and prepare four
Paint their clothes in bright colors.

for each
boy
size in
rider, so
girls
and
six
made
boys.
Cut a second leg
he can be made to
sit
astride of his
196
horse,
and glue the leg
Cut a
slit
in
to his hip as
shown
in Fig. 266.
each seat of the sleigh and stick the flaps on
the girl riders in them.
For the Platform shown directly under the horses and

sleighs in Fig. 253, cut a piece of cardboard 11 inches in
Fig. 265.
Fig. 264.
Full-size Pattern for the
Fig. 266.
Fig. 266.
How
the Second
Girl Riders.
of the
Boy
Leg
is
At-
tached.
Fig. 265.
diameter;
if
Full-size Pattern for the Boy Riders.
you choose
the merry-go-round, you
moved
Punch
in
to
make
may
the Ferris wheel before
use the center pieces
re-
cutting out the rims, as noted in Fig. 271.
a hole through the center of this disk large
enough
and
peg connecting spools
to slip through.
This platform rests upon the top of spool
and revolves
for the
with
it.
CLOCKWORK TOYS
The key by which
To Operate the Merry-go-round.

the mainspring
is
wound up
is
197
shown screwed
in place
on the under side of the cigar-box cover in Fig. 257.
While winding the mainspring, it will be necessary

have some means of checking it so it will not unwind
the same time, and the best scheme for a check is
bore a small gimlet hole through the cover
box and
stick a
match through
this
to
at
to
of the cigar
and run
it
between
the spokes of one of the clock wheels so as to prevent

it
Then when you have wound up
from turning.
spring and are ready
have to do
merry-go-round,
all
the
you
to pull out the match.
is
The model
him runs
to start the
of this toy
for five
which the author has before
minutes with one winding, and any boy
can make one which
will
run as well
he follows the
if
directions given and uses a reasonable
amount
of care-
fulness in the work.
Other Animals than horses

follow the arrangement of
may be used
some
rounds, and pictures of these
if
you wish
of the latest
may
be found
among
colored cut-outs sold in the stationery stores, or
can draw well, you

magazines.
to
merry-go-
if
the
you
may copy them from books and

may be had by changing the
Great fun
making them
positions of the
boy
part of the time
and sometimes two and three boys on a
horse.
riders,
ride
backward
Doubtless you have heard of the famous Ferris wheel,
and a good many of you have ridden
in the smaller
198
wheels patterned after
you
it,
amusement
at the
parks, so
be interested in making
will
Miniature Ferris Wheel like the one shown in Fig.
255.
The Standard for supporting the wheel (Fig. 267)

consists of two triangular supports, one with a spool
hub fastened
to
top for
its
the axle of the wheel to run
through and the other with

the cigar box inclosing the
clockwork fastened
to
it.
Figures 268, 269, and 270
show
construction
the
Cut
these supports.
and
and
12
of
strips
inches long
10 inches long, and
trim off the upper ends of

Fig. 267.
ends
Standard
will
ends of
for the Ferris
P and
Q, SO
nailed
together, the lower
be 8 inches apart; nail strip
and
to its support,
glue and wind
To
(Fig. 268).
smear one side

it
when they
are
to the lower
fasten the spool
hub
of a piece of tape with
several times around the spool (Fig.
269), then set the spool
on top
of the support
and press
the ends of the tape against the sides of strips
P and Q
(Fig. 270).
The Clockwork Motor

to the cover of a cigar
for the Ferris
box
wheel
is
fastened
just as that for the merry-
CLOCKWORK TOYS
199
go-round was fastened (Fig. 257), but the length of the

box is cut down as much as the clockwork will allow to
make
It
have
the box as square and compact as possible.

is
very necessary to
the
axle
bearings
exactly on a line in order

to
have
smoothly,
in fastening ^P*
so,
the cigar box to

port,
run
wheel
the
sup-
its
be sure that the cen-
ter of the hole in spool
(Fig.
257)
is
on a
level
with the spool hub on the

opposite
Nail
support.
the supports to a lO-inch
by 12-inch board, 8 inches

apart, and fasten a cigar
'
box between them
Fig. 2
Fig. 268.
Make
Two
^^^ the Ferris
J'^'''
Figs. 269 and 270.

fastened to the
^^^ ^
for
Supports
like
Wheel standard.
How
Top
a Spool
is
of the Support
^^^
The Station Platform (Fig. 267).

To make the Wheel, first lay out the rims upon a piece
of
heavy cardboard, using the
radii
shown
in
for describing the circles, then lay the sheet of
Fig. 271
cardboard
upon a board and

Cut out the Rims with a sharp knife, being careful not
to run off of the pencil line.
Hubs
them
of the
wheel are spools with six holes bored in
for the spokes to
Spokes
5|-
The
fit
in (Fig. 274).
Cut
six
inches long by \ inch thick for each hub.
HANDICRAFr FOR HANDY BOYS
200
and cut a
to
fit
slot in
one end
in (Figs. 272
f iG.
and
of
each for the cardboard rims
275).
Use a saw
Fig. 272.
271.
rather than a
Fig. 273.
How to lay out the Cardboard Rims of the Ferris Wheel.

Fig. 272. The Spokes
into the Spool Hub.
Fig. 271.
fitted
The Rim slipped into the End of the Spokes.
Fig. 273.
making the
knife in
slots, for it will
make
a kerf of just
the right width to receive the cardboard and will not
be so apt to
split
the
ends
the
of
slender
spokes.
Whittle the hub ends of

the spokes to
in
the
spool
272 and 275).

Fig.
274.
Spool
Hub
for
the Wheel.
fit
the holes
hubs (Figs.
In
Putting together the
-How
Fig. 275.
the
Spokes, Rims, and
Rims
Spokes, Hubs, and

i
r
i
first stick
Axles are fastened
the wheel,
Together.
spokcs in a hub and
rim into the slots
in their ends,
of
three
slip a
then stick the remaining
spokes into the hub, one at a time, and spread the rim
enough so
When
can be slipped into their slots (Fig. 273).

the hubs, rims, and spokes have been assembled,
it
CLOCKWORK TOYS
lay
them
aside and get
20I
some heavy wrapping-paper
or
thin cardboard out of which
The
To make the Cars.

in Fig. 276,
and on
Fig. 276.
it
you
Pattern
necessary for laying
it
pattern for the cars

will find all the
for the Ferris
Wheel
out to the proper
is
shown
dimensions
Cars.
size.
It will
be
understood that the unfigured portions of the drawing

are
the
them.
same
The
marked upon
the door and window open-
as those with dimensions
dotted lines at
202
ings indicate where the cutting
to be done, while all
is
other dotted lines indicate where the cardboard
to be
is
making the drawing

and when you have
go over it carefully and compare it with the
to be sure it is correct, after which make a
Use
scored and folded.
a ruler in
of the car to get the lines straight,
finished
it,
illustration
careful tracing of
it,
turn
it
over and transfer the draw-
ing five times upon cardboard.
drawing
will
give you
the
These and your
required
original
number
of
cars.
Cut out the openings with a sharp knife and then do

punch
the rest of the cutting with a pair of scissors
;
a J-inch hole in each end of each car with a lead-pencil

(Fig. 276), being careful to get the holes exactly opposite.
In folding and glu-
^^""ZTSr.
p^-^^S=^
^H^ 1z
(^ r^^^^^^^T^^^^
ing
the
cars,
slip
the flaps inside and
bend the
roofs so
they will follow the

Fig. 277.
A Completed Car for the Ferris Wheel,
When
curve of the ends

/tt-
^^\
(i^lg. 277).
the cars have been completed, cut six sticks 5

down until they are about \ inch
inches long, whittle them

in diameter,
and sandpaper them
round and smooth.
These
until they are perfectly
sticks connect the rims of
the wheel and form
The Axles from which the cars are hung (Fig. 277).
Great care must be used in fastening them between the
rims, for they are easily split,
and the best way
to
do
is
CLOCKWORK TOYS
awl, or
ends of each axle with an
in the
to start a hole first
by driving a brad part way
drawing
it
203
in
and then with-
then drive a brad through each spoke of
one rim into an axle (Fig. 275) slip the other ends of
the axles through the holes in the ends of the cars (Fig.
;
277),
and
nail the
spokes of the other rim to them.
To mount the Wheel upon
its
standard, whittle an axle
8^ inches long to fit the hubs, then hold the wheel between the two uprights, with the hubs on a line with the
spool bearings and run the axle through the holes (Fig.
255).
Build Steps at each end of the platform out of heavy
Fold the paper or
writing-paper or light cardboard.
cardboard back and
forth,
making
pleats about
wide, for the steps, and after gluing
it
J inch
in place, cut out
them to the edges of the steps.

enough so there will be about
^-inch clearance between it and the bottom of the cars
the balustrades and glue
Make
the top step low
(Fig. 255).
After you have
made
a final
inspection to see that
everything has been put together properly, your toy will
be ready for operation, and
am
sure that
when you
the clockwork machinery in motion, and the
begins to revolve slowly with each
upon
its axle,
you
will
little
little
set
wheel
car balancing
agree that you have constructed
a very interesting toy.
The
a
"
Flying Airships
number
of cars
" is
a riding device consisting of
suspended by
steel
cables from large
204
arms pivoted
When
to the top of a tower.
arms begin
the machin-
and the
to swing out away from
the center.
As the speed of the arms increases, the cars
swing out farther and farther, until when the highest
ery
is
started, the
to revolve slowly,
motion produced causes the cars
speed has been reached the cables by which the cars are
suspended have taken an oblique position and raised the

cars
some distance above the ground
the engine
is
known
You will
easy to
then the speed of
This piece
regain their former position.

also
gradually diminished, and the cars finally

of apparatus
is
as an aerostat.
find the miniature flying airships (Fig. 256)
making a merry-go-round
construct after
many
Ferris wheel, as
of its details are identical
or
with
those of the other toys.
The Standard for the toy
is
made
similar to the one for
the merry-go-round (Fig. 253), except that the top board

is
omitted and a circular piece of cardboard of the size
of the disks
Ferris wheel
removed
in
substituted
is
through the exact center

will
fit
cutting out
over spool
of
in
its
the
place.
rims of the
Cut a hole
the piece large enough so
it
(Fig. 254).
Cut a Mast about 14 inches long and of the diameter

of the hole in the spool
3 inches
below the top
four horizontal
and
stick
of the
it
into spool
then
mast fasten a spool with
arms 6 inches long glued
into
holes
bored in it. Fasten a cross-piece \\ inches long to the

end of each arm with brads, and from these suspend
Cars
cords.
made
CLOCKWORK TOYS
205
similar to those of the
Ferris wheel with
Set a small flag in a hole bored in the top of the
mast and then run cords from the top

the ends of the
With
as
arm
of the
mast out
to
pieces.
this toy the cars
cannot be swung out obliquely
on the large flying airships except by

Increasing the Speed of the Clockwork.
This can be
accomiplished by removing one or two of the wheels of

the clockwork, but
than one
wheel
it is
not advisable to take out more
in addition to those
removed
for the
merry-go-round (Fig. 257) because the mainspring would

require rewinding too often to make the toy enjoyable.
mâ
CHAPTER
XIII
BRASS CRAFT
Of
the
modern handicrafts requiring
than wood, those in which metal
is
used are probably
the most interesting to boys, for metal

principal materials for
chanical nature
work
all
an
of
materials other
is
one
of their
electrical or
and as metal handicrafts require
me-
tools
such as most boys are accustomed to handle, the work

probably better suited to boys than to
Brass-piercing
is
is
girls.
an interesting metal
inexpensive, and the
work
is
simple.
The Tools and Materials Required
is
craft,
the material
Following are
Hammer
Piercing Tool (see Fig. 278)
1" Cold-chisel (see Fig. 278)
Flat
or
Half-round
Metal-file
(see Fig. ^3, P^ge 25)
Board
(Whitewood or Basswood) i" X 12" X 20''
and Compass
Drawing-paper and Carbon
Pencil, Eraser,
9^ ^/S" Pound
Fig. 278.
-I
'Escutcheon Pin
Some of the Tools and
Materials Required.
Paper
No. 30 Gauge Sheet Brass

small work
206
for
BRASS CRAFT
No. 28 Gauge Sheet Brass
for large
207
work
Tacks
6-oz.
I" Round-head Escutcheon Pins (Fig. 278)

Brass Shanks or Paper Fasteners (Fig. 278)
\" Brass Screw-eyes
Box of No. 20 Brass Chain
Bead Fringe)
(or
(Fig. 278)
Metal Polish and Lacquer
To make
easy the work
out designs for
of laying
the articles illustrated in this chapter, suitable designs

are
shown
Those which
at a small scale.
less elaborate
may
be drawn
full size
Enlarging by Squares, which

of the small squares
is
first
thing to do
and marginal
article
by the process
easy to carry out.
of
Each
is
J inch square
(Fig. 281).
to lay out, full size, the outlines
lines of the piece of brass required for the
upon a piece
sions given
more or
drawn across these designs represents
a space on the full-size pattern
The
are
of drawing-paper,
upon the diagram.
using the dimen-
Take one
side of
the
2-by-20-inch board for a drawing-board and use the other
side to do the piercing
Then when you have

ments
on
tack the paper to the board.
carefully
checked up the measure-
upon the diagram, lay off the

squares upon it, making each of those shown ^ inch
each way then number one end of the horizontal lines
and letter one end of the vertical lines as shown, and it
with
those
will
be a simple matter to locate each portion of the
design upon your pattern just where

book,
for,
it
is
shown
in the
by the lettering and numbering, corresponding
2o8
When
squares can be located quickly.
been drawn out
full size, it is
pattern
off the entire
the design has
a simple matter to trace
outline
and design
upon
piece of brass, by placing a piece of carbon paper between

the drawing-paper and the brass and then carefully trac-
Carbon paper
ing over the lines with a sharp pencil.
such as stenographers use upon their typewriters
making
duplicate copies of typewritten matter
may
for
be
Where two sides of a design are similar (Fig. 285),

enlarge one half, make a tracing of it, reverse the tracing,
used.
and trace
if
it
off
the design
is
upon the opposite
repeated several times, lay
one section and then trace
By doing
this
side of the center-line
it is
it
off
it
out upon
upon the other
sections.
easier to get all portions alike.
Leave
a margin of about
to
allow for
piece
\ inch around the edges of the outline

turning in. Be sure not to cut out the
from the sheet
until after
you have pierced the
design, except in cases where the brass
upon wood,
for the square piece will
to be
is
mounted
be easier to hold to
the board during this operation.
When
ready
To pierce a Design,
first
follow the outlines of the entire
design and pierce a continuous row of small holes along
them, placing the holes as close together as possible and
making them
of equal size;
then
fill
in a series of coarser
holes in the spaces between these rows of holes to form
a background to the design.
As
the piercing tool
tapered to a point, the size of the hole
is,
is
of course, deter-
BRASS CRAFT
mined by the depth
to
which
it
209
is
driven through the
The background
Drive the tool with a hammer.
brass.
holes should not be spaced off in even rows nor in the
form of a pattern, for the
effect
would be such as
detract from the design, but they should
over the
field in
to
be scattered
such a way that the spaces between
will
be about equal; this will give the background an even

tone.
Wire brushes
are sold for
Polishing the Brass, but you will find that any sort of
metal polish or scouring powder will answer the purpose

very well.
Of course the
brass will tarnish and must be
polished from time to time to keep

finish
is
in color
put upon
may
it.
it
bright, unless
Brass lacquers
some
transparent
or
be purchased at the art stores, but you
wdll find
A Home-made
Antique Green Lacquer of the following
formula very pretty and a simple solution to make up

I
part
ammonia muriate
part
ammonia carbonate
12 parts cold water
The metal should
be cleaned thoroughly and the solu-
tion should be applied with a brush.

of the lacquer will
With
these
Several applications
improve the depth of the
general
instructions in
finish.
mind, you can
begin work upon some of the simpler articles illustrated

in this chapter.
Tea-pot Stand such as
is
shown
in Fig.
279 consists

2IO
of a circular
brass
upon which a piece of perforated

Use a piece of |^-inch whitewood or
basswood for the disk. Make it
wood
disk
mounted.
is
5^1 inches in diameter, cut it out

with a compass-saw or other fine
saw, and smooth the edges with a
or chisel
wood-file
paper
the
Cut a
it.
then
sand-
strip of brass of
proper width and length to
form a metal band for the edge

Fig. 279.
the base, and tack
Fig. 279.
A Tea-pot Stand.
Fig. 280.
-Section through With
The
After the de-
281.
sign has been laid out

size
upon
k.
brass, the piece
the perforating
is
/ y
done and \'
fastened to the base with
escutcheon pins.
a circle about
brass,
of
the
Describe
^ inch
edge
of
in-
>
_..,
'
-^
"^
full
should be cut out before
side
(tig.
278),
spacing them about \ inch apart.

pattern for the top brass covering is shown in
Stand.
Fig.
pms
escutcheon
of
to the edsre
it
% V
^ ^ u^ ^^
^
-^ T
7
">s
the
locate positions for
^1
/^
K > r^
/'
V ^
-X
>
^--
/>
r~i
>
hi
-iL
\.
<
<^
?^
L y\
^\
\\ ^- z^ ^#
H ^ J^
\,
\
\A
yS
7'
^
/
/:
/
/
8
the pins around this, f inch

apart, and punch the holes
at
these
points with
the
Fig. 281.
Pattern
for
Top of Tea-pot
Stand and Calendar Board.

(On
the full-size pattern
make each
of the
small squares shown above \ inch square,
piercer before driving the
to
guide you in enlarging the design.)
BRASS CRAFT
pins into the base.
about
ject
Y^g
inch
The edge
211
of the brass top will pro-
band
over the brass
(Fig.
Drive three rug tacks into the base, as shown, for
Calendar Board like the one
make
New
a pretty Christmas or
struction
is
shown
280).
feet.
in Fig. 282 will
Year's
gift.
Its
con-
similar to that of the
tea-pot stand, with the omission

of the feet
and the addition
of a
brass screw-eye screwed into the
top by which to hang
bought
this
can
calendar
small
it
up.
usually
at a stationery store,
A
be
and
should be attached to the exact
center of the board by means of two
escutcheon pins driven through
Fig. 282.
A Calendar
Board.
the corners of the top margin.
The Pen Tray
illustrated in Fig.
283 requires a bottom
block of the size shown in Fig. 284.
Fig.
283. a Pen
Tray.
Fig. 284.
Brass
this,
After preparing
Wood Bottom and
Rim
for the
Pen Tray.
cut a piece of brass of the exact width and length
of the
block and fasten
it
to the top with escutcheon pins,
spacing the pins about as shown in Fig. 283.
Then
en-
212
large the design

brass,
shown
and perforate
in Fig. 285, trace
to
it
:eNTER-LINE^ A
Design
for
it
for the left half.)
should be
made
to lap at
File off the top
edge
of
strip
of
felt
bottom
to the
shown
of
the
Lamp-slâde of
is
and tack
it
the
edge
form
to
to
the
of
six
it is
it
from
placed.
the most popular
shows
and Fig. 287 how the
sides,
when laid out on

shown upon two of
to prevent
among
Fig. 286
sides appear
sign
Fig.
284,
The ends
tray
candle shades are
pierced brass articles.
in
one corner as in Fig. 283.

the rim smooth and glue a piece
scratching any surface upon which
Lamp and
bottom block,
a rim to the tray.
Bottom of Pen Tray.
(Enlarge the right half and reverse
upon the
around the edge
fit
of the
as
Fig. 285.
off
After this has been done, cut a
it.
f inch wide, bend
strip of brass
it
a sheet of brass.
The
de-
the panels, in the pattern:
on one as
will
it
appear
when the background is perforated,
and on the other
with the squares marked off
upon
it
larging
to help
it.
out the design
The
you
After
in en- Fig.
286.
laying
full size, trace it off
A Lamp-shade of Six Sides.
(See Fig. 142, Chapter VI.)
upon each
of the panels.
piece should be cut out, after the perforating has
been completed, and folded along the dotted
lines.
Bend
BRASS CRAFT
213
the brass over the sharp edge of your board.
The
flaps
along the top and bottom edges should be turned in and
Fig. 287.
hammered
flat
Pattern for Lamp-shade of Six Sides.
against the sides of the shade, and the
end edges should also be turned
in
and one lapped over
214
Fasten the end edges
the other.
with brass
paper fasteners, or escutcheon pins (Fig.

the ends over upon
the inside.
If
shanks,
bending
278),
you use the
pins,
them off short and clinch them upon the inside by

placing them on the head of a hatchet and hammering
the heads with a hammer.
Chain Fringe is cheaper and more interesting to put on
than the bead fringe frequently used upon brass shades.
cut

this
size
Cut
which should be bought.
up into 3-inch lengths and fasten the pieces to the
lower edge of the shade about ^q inch from center to

center, hooking the opened link on the end of each piece
of chain through a hole
then pinching
it
punched through the
brass,
and
Fig.
291
closed.
The Candle-shade
on the candle-stick
in
should be laid out by the pattern in Fig. 288.

landscape design
to enlarge
it
is
very simple,
by squares.
will
it
As
the
not be necessary
After piercing and cutting out
the piece of brass, snip the top and bottom edges, cutting
out small triangular pieces as shown,
over the
flat
little flaps
and then bend
hammer them down

The edge of
shade.
thus formed and
against the inside face of the
one end of the piece should also be turned in (see dotted

line
on
pattern),
and
this
should either be lapped over
the other edge and the two fastened as described for the
other shade, or the other edge should be folded out and
one edge hooked into the other as the edges

are joined,
of a tin
and the two hammered down so as
to
can
make
BRASS CRAFT
a
neat edge.
215
Attach chain fringe
to
the rim as
de-
scribed for the other shade.
Figures 289 and 290 show two forms of
Shade Holders, the former for an electric lamp and the

latter for a candle.
bought where
These can be
light-fixtures are sold
and cost about 10 cents apiece.

The Candle-stick shown in Fig. 291
is easy to make, and when the wood
is
carefully cov-
FiG. 289.
with the
ered
brass,
very
makes a
neat-ap-
pearing
Electric Lamp-
shade Holder,
article. Fig. 290.
Figure
Candle-shade
^^^^^-
292
shows the
brass,
Fig. 290.
Fig. 289.
sizes
together
of
the pieces of
with
designs
the
which are to be perforated upon

them.
First
prepare
the
wood
blocks for the base, upright, and top

pieces,
making them
inch less
than the dimensions given upon the

patterns, to allow for the thickness
of the brass.
Before fastening the
blocks together, prepare the brass
them in place, lay out

the designs, and perforate them.
pieces, nail
Fig. 291
a Brass Candle-
stick with Circular
Shade.
The
sides should be
made
in
one
2l6
piece and be bent around the corners.
The upper
ing of the top and base pieces should project about

'f"
cover-
^ inch
EDGE OH BASE
(CUT STRIP LONG ENOUGH FOH 4 EDGES;
Fig. 292.
Patterns
for
Brass Pieces of the
Candle-stick.
(Cut the wood blocks ^^ inch less than the above
dimensions to allow for the thickness ol the brass.)
as
shown
After nailing
in Fig. 291.
the blocks together, glue a strip of

to the
bottom of the base piece.
The
in
felt
"
Paul Revere
"
Lantern shown
Fig. 293 differs from the lanterns
used in the colonial times only

respect
it
is
lighted
in this
by removing
Fig. 293.
Revere
A " Paul
" Lantern.
the bottom instead of through a door-
way
in the side.
The door has been omitted
the construction simpler; however,
an exact copy, you
may make
with pieces of wire.
For
if
to
you wish to
a door and hinge
this lantern the
it
make
make
in place
proper size for
an opening would be 3^ by 6| inches.
The
right-hand portion of the patterns for the side
BRASS CRAFT
and top pieces (Figs.
measurements
217
296 and 297) shows the main

and at the left the design
for the design,
shown perforated. After laying out lines to the

measurements given, divide up the spaces between into
the number of spaces shown. The small holes of the
design are made with a
is
and the
piercer,
slits
are
cut with a cold-chisel (Fig.
Space the perfora-
278).
tions
shown, and be
as
careful to
the
of
keep the ends

within
slits
Fig.
the
295.-The
FiG.294.-The
Lantern Bottom.
Lantern Sides.
guide-lines
The
on the upper edge
tips
through the
slots cut in the top piece
297),
and hold the top
while
the
receive
to
of the side piece slip
to the
sides
(Figs. 296
when bent
and
over,
two holes near the bottom edge are made

the
which hold the bottom
pins
and 295).
the ends of the
in place
(Figs. 293, 294,
Fasten
it
enough diameter
to
the
sides
strip
to
of
of
the
circular
make
lantern.
brass, as
the
lantern are
piece
of brass of a large
a ^-inch
Make
shown
in
projection
a
beyond
candle-holder out
Fig.
295,
The pins for holding

made out of two brass
this to the base block.
in
together with
to
and fasten
of
piece
shanks (Fig. 294), then cut a circular block of

fit in the bottom end of this cylinder (Fig. 295),
brass
wood
side
and tack
the bottom
screw-eyes,
2l8
by filing off the threads, and these are held to the

bottom with short pieces of brass chain to keep them
from being lost when the bottom is removed for lighting the candle.
Before fastening the top to the sides

Fig.
^///////////////////m//////////
Y\G. 296.
Pattern of Lantern Sides.

Pattern of Lantern Top.
298. Brass Strip for Lantern Ring.
Fig. 296.
Fig. 297.
Fig.
Cut a
prepare the lantern ring.
shown
it
stiff,
in Fig. 298,
bend
and then bend
it
it
strip of brass of the size
over along the center to
into a ring
and clinch the ends
together like the sides of a tin can are clinched.

the ring to the peak as
shown
make
in Fig. 293.
Wire
Marconi's experiments from 1895 to 1899 to devise

instruments for the transmitting and recording of
messages without the use
of successes
of wires, resulted in a
which astonished the
number
scientific world,
but
when
on December 12, 1901, to transmit across the Atlantic
Ocean from Newfoundland to England, this crowning
he so perfected the apparatus that he was enabled
success was accepted by one and
achievements of
Though
as
modern
all
as one of the greatest
times.
wireless telegraphy
was looked upon by many
depending upon a mysterious phenomena,
amateur
far
too
it was not long

upon the subject began
to appear in the newspapers and technical journals
Soon after the
that boys started to study into it.
deep
for
the
understand,
to
after articles treating at length
establishment of a wireless station at the Charlestown
Navy Yard,
the
became aware one day
operators
somebody was tampering with

began
to pick
unofficial
up remarks, which were
character.
The
219
that
their messages, for they
interference
of a decidedly
became very
220
annoying,
and
it
was a number
days before the
of
source could be located; then a crudely arranged mast
upon a shed
roof, a
few squares from the Navy Yard,
furnished a, clew and, as might naturally be expected,

wares from the
down
top
of
mast were found
the
to
lead
was discovered that two

boys had fitted up a home electrical shop and installed
a complete sending and receiving apparatus.
The
into the shed
where
it
investigators were of course greatly surprised to find

that they
had been
baffled
by mere
boys,
but you can
upon examining the

was mostly home-made
well imagine their chagrin when,
equipment, they found that
it
and that though part
of
nothing more or
than junk,
less
it
was
constructed
it
out
of
was serving the
purpose of the government's complicated and costly

apparatus.
This just goes to show, boys, that
something out
close to
it,
of nothing,
you
if
can't
make
you can often come pretty
and that with the things you can ordinarily
find about the house, the shed,
and
in the
junk dealers'
stores you can construct all sorts of things, many of

which your father and men manufacturing those very
things
the
would not believe could be made except with
materials
customarily
convey the impression by

wireless outfit out of
used.
do not mean to
you can construct a

alone
but it can be
this that
such
stuff
used to advantage to help out.
Other boys naturally followed
in
the
footsteps
of
A BOY'S WIRELESS TELEGRAPH OUTFIT

boy
pioneer
the
and
outfits,
it
time, there
experimenters
making
in
221
wireless
has been estimated that, at the present
are
the neighborhood of five thousand
in
amateur stations
the
in
country,
to
nothing
say
of
who would own

knew what is required, what parts
can make, how to do the work, and how to go
countless thousands of boy enthusiasts

outfits
they
they but
if
about installing the
you are
in
the
see
to
likely
station
outfit.
earmarks
the
of
go, now,
amateur
masts set up on the housetops, used
the
In Chicago
support the aerials.
to
Everywhere you
there are nearly
some parts of
enthusiasm runs high you can count
three hundred of these stations, and in
the city where the
more of poles within the range of the eye.

To show you
What Some Boys have accomplished let me quote from
a score or
two
Richard Cobb, who
of their letters.
lives in
Cam-
bridge, Massachusetts, writes the following in a letter
published in the Boston Herald:

" I have erected at
I receive
all
each night
Rock, which
message
it
is
very
district.
At 10 o'clock
Once
in
a while
and Acushnet, and once

high-pitched
hear the
two revenue
in a while I hear Brant
and sends D.
When
sending a
repeats each word.
suppose each boy that has a receiving set receives the time
o'clock each day.
comes
stations in the
hear the wireless telegraph station Wellfleet, and amateur
between times.
stations
house a simple wireless telegraph station.
the government
cutters, the Gresha7?t
^'I
my
in
very loud.
at 12
receive the time each day except Sundays.

I set
my
watch by
it
each day.
My
call is I
It
222
in the Continental
and
in the
My
Môrse code.
set
comprises a
siHcon detector, fixed condenser, double-shde tuning-coil, one pair of
500-ohm
receivers,
10 1 feet antennae and a gas pipe for a ground.
have very good results."
The making
of
the same forms of instruments as
Richard mentions, with the exception

In the
described in this chapter.
Rindge, also of Cambridge, says

" I
receiving and a very simple
tuning-coil, a silicon detector

set
was a good deal
quite a
" All
number of
my
Most
stations,
better,
sets,
one.
It
and
now
I
My
receiver.
receivers.
think
is
just
was only
first set
consisted of a poorly
had a pair of
but the one I have
My
D.
and a telephone
instruments are home-made.
of the
is
same paper, Fulton
began to study wireless telegraphy about two years ago,
before the Republic sent out that famous

for
of the receivers,
made
second
have had
pretty good.
can send about 10 miles."
boys are highly successful with their
and with simple apparatus are able
home
to receive
everything within a radius of 100 miles and to transmit,

a distance of several miles.
Any boy
government and commercial
is
free to receive
station messages, for this
does not cause any disturbance, but he must not interfere
with such messages, for such interference has made
much
trouble and resulted in the enactment of a law forbidding

it
under a severe penalty.
The Chicago amateurs have
a society
known
as
and under the guidance of

their president, Mr. Royal C. Dickson, a pioneer amateur
wireless experimenter and now an expert for one of the
The Chicago Wireless
Club,
223
making remarkAt the regular meetings lectures upon
large commercial companies, they are

able progress.
the subject are given,
and
all
details
members have had difficulty

Each member
of the
are clearly explained.

a
large
codes
printed
type,
PRIVATE WIRELESS TELEGRAPH STATION
he
10
OKRtTlO
LOUTU
BT
IT
AEROGRAM
>nT..
are
RECEIVED
It tha Privatt
WIrelen Stltlofl.
and a sheet
a
the
list of all
;
understanding
furnished with
large
in
containino^
bers
in
is
code card,
upon which the

Morse and Continental
about which any
call
mem-
and so that
may
Fig. 299.
Form of Aerogram Blank used by the
Bovs of
be
"The Chicago
Wireless Club."
strictly
up-to-date he
is
supplied with aerogram blanks (Fig. 299)
and envelopes.
Some
of the
boys in one of the suburbs have opened
up
Amateur Commercial Stations and transmit aerograms

at the rate of ten words for 5 cents, which might be a
good way
of
earning
money
if
it
were not for the
almost universal installation of the telephone.

novelty of
sending an aerogram might make
Still,
it
the
possible
enough business to make such a venture pay.

Mr. Dickson, who, by the way, was a schoolmate of the
author, probably knows better than any one else about
the difficulties which an amateur experiences in installing
to obtain
224
a wireless outfit, and, realizing that he could give you
boys the most practical suggestions, the author succeeded

in getting
him
to consent to
work up and describe
for
you the material presented in this chapter. The illustrations have been made directly from the models furnished
by him, and some of these models, boys, have been tested
out on one of the large lake boats.
lished articles
on wireless
equipment which are very
Many
of the
outfits describe parts of the

difificult
for a
boy
to
such as the construction of an induction-coil,
boy undertaking the work

it
is
more than
finished
it
that
is
often'
half completed, or
it
will
pub-
not
make,
and
discouraged before
finds after
operate.
Mr.
he has
Dickson's
suggestions wiU be found easy to carry out, and the
apparatus will work splendidly.
The
illustrations
show, besides the pieces which you
can make, the best forms of the parts which must be

purchased.
Before undertaking the construction and installation
of the wireless instruments,
you should know something
about
The Fundamental
Principles
of
Wireless
Telegraphy.
Throughout all space a substance is supposed to exist,

though nothing definite is known about it, and this substance, which is colorless, odorless, and without weight,
and called ether, is supposed to have remarkable qualities
for transmitting
vibrations
through space.
You
have noticed how when a moving boat disturbs the
boys
sur-
1\U>^>'V\\\\^^V\\\
Fig. 300.
A Good Way to arrange
in your
the Wireless Instruments
Room.
upon a Table
(See Wiring Diagram, Fig. 325.)
225
226
body of water, the disturbance is communicated

in the form of waves to the surrounding water, and that
all other craft within range of these waves start to bob
up and down as soon as they are reached. Now, just for
example, let us imagine that a body of water is the ether
face of a
have been telling you about, that there are a number
of yachts,
each
boats,
and other
craft at anchor,
and
that
of these is the aerial of a wireless telegraph station.
Then
of
motor
let
us suppose that one of the boats in the midst
the others weighs anchor and gets under way, and
upon the water represents the

transmitting of a message through the ether, and each
wave which rolls out from the wake of the passing boat
represents a dot or dash of a message, and you will get
a pretty good idea of how a wireless message travels
but the waves in the ether (they are known 2J^ electromagthat the resulting action
netic or
fact,
Hertzian waves)
travel very rapidly, so rapidly, in
that they are recorded practically the instant that
the electric discharges are made, no matter what length

of space they
Electricity
have
is
to travel
used by which to produce the waves in
sending a wireless message,

is
through.
and
in
our small
outfit this
obtained from batteries, the current from which
is
passed through an induction-coil to increase the voltage
and then jumped across the space between the ends

two metal rods
of a piece of
apparatus
known
of
as a spark-
gap, producing a spark whose duration determines the

dot and dash (these are used in
"
wireless
"
just the
same
227
The
current
as in the codes of the ordinary telegraph).

is
then carried by the wires to the aerial wires and there
discharged in
it
electricity will
that
when
aerial
are
is
of a
the
form of long and short
directions, in the
The earth has
discharges.
and
all
a great capacity for electricity,
run through anything connected to
proper conducting material.
Therefore,
waves produced by the discharges from an
spread out,
the aerials within their range which
all
grounded receive them
just the
same
as the lightning-
rod receives the lightning discharges, and the current
runs
down
into the
of lightning runs
The long and
ground
down
in the
same way
that a bolt
a lightning-rod into the ground.
short discharges are recorded by
means
of
telephone receivers after they have been regulated by a
number
which
of pieces of apparatus,
be taken up
will
later.
The
first
thing to consider
The Aerial or antenncB,

undertaking rests so
is
The
success
much upon
this that
be the best that can possibly be made.

aerial results
whole
the
of
it
ought
With
to
a good
can be secured even with inferior instru-
ments, but the most excellent instruments will not
re-
Two
things
should be figured upon, the height and the length.
Each
spond when connected
is
poor
to a
aerial.
important, and the longer and higher the aerial
better the results will be.
high
at
one end and
the
should be at least 30 feet
It
at least
is,
50 feet long.
vertical, horizontal, or slanting,
It
may be
but usually the best
re-
228
suits are obtained
when
it
is
supported horizontally or
slanting between two supports (Fig. 301).

factory aerial
Fig. 301.
is
one which
is
very
70 or 80 feet long and 50
The Length of the Aerial Mast can be reduced by erecting
a Roof.
Use Two Masts
if
satis-
One End cannot be supported
as
it
upon
Above.
more high. With such an aerial and the instruments described upon the following pages receiving can
be accomplished within a radius of several hundred
miles.
Of course the dimensions of the aerial will
necessarily depend upon the character of the place, and
if the masts are erected upon the housetop or the roof
feet or
of a shed, the height
can be obtained with shorter ma-
terial (Fig. 301).
The
wire,
aerial should
have not
and eight or ten are
less
better,
than
six strands of
and these should be

spaced
foot apart (Fig. 302).
229
six-strand aerial will
require a spreader at each end 5 feet 6 inches long and
an eight-strand
require one 7 feet 6 inches
will
aerial
50 FEET LONG
TMtSE wlBtS SHO
SPACED
Fig. 302.
The heavy end
wood.
excellent material as
The
strong.
of a
it is
and cost
lent insulators
you cannot get

spreaders as
any
light,
bamboo
strong pieces of
fish
pole furnishes
very light as well as tough and
these,
shown
cleats
less
necks
wires
the
shown in Fig.
303) make excel-
to an insulator as
first
Ordinary porcelain
After
of
wires should not be fastened directly to
the spreader, but
stead.
z:::^
How to construct a Six- wire Aerial or Anten7icE.
These can be made
long.
302.
fOOT
(Fig.
than
cent a piece, but
of bottles
have
been
if
may be
used
in-
fastened
to
the
in
the diagram of Fig. 302,
and
ropes
attached
have
been
to screw-eyes
Fig. 303. -Porcelain
Fig. 304.
Battery
Porcelain insulator.
^leat.
screwed into the spreaders near the ends, rope stays
must be run from these ropes back to the spreaders

shown in Fig. 302 otherwise, the spreaders will bow
;
at the center
Any
and
this
and cause the center wires

be bare or insulated.
in
to slacken.
sort of wire, except iron or steel,
may
as
may be
Bare wire
is
used,
cheaper,
230
of course,
but sometimes the builder
may have
should not be smaller than No. i6 B.
insulated
The
wire on hand that can be used to advantage.
wire
& S. gauge, and larger
No. 14 being standard for small outfits.

The wire leading in from the aerial must be insulated
wire
is
better,
very carefully at the point where
by passing
it
it
enters the house,
through a porcelain insulator.
insulator (Fig. 304) will serve the purpose.
battery
Figure 300
shows how a hole may be bored through the top rail of

the upper window sash large enough to receive the insulator.
This wire must be supported on insulators
wherever support
is
necessary,
all
the
way from
the aerial
to the instruments.
The Masts which support the
aerial
should be equipped
with pulleys, like rigging a flagpole, so that the aerial
may
any time for repairs.

are shown in Fig. 208 (page
be hoisted or lowered
Clothes-line pulleys such as
171) and a stout

rigging.
The
hemp
poles
at
clothes-line
must, of
may
course, be
strongly with wire stays (Fig. 301), and

to set in turnbuckles (see
so that the stays
may be
down
aerial can be run
H and
/,
kept taut.
to
be used for the
it is
braced very
a good idea
Fig. 212, page 174)

If
one end
of the
the house and fastened to
the window-frame, as in Fig. 301, of course only one
mast
will
be necessary.
Grounding the Aerial.
When
not in use, the aerial
should be disconnected from the instruments, and be
connected to the ground wire, as a precaution against
The ground
lightning.
wire
fastened to a water-pipe
is
more
or to a metal rod driven 6 feet or

or in one of the other
ground connection
into the ground,
ways described below.
good
one of the essentials of a wireless
is
In cities a water-pipe
outfit.
231
makes an
excellent ground,
but where none of these are installed, other means must
A pump
be adopted.
deep well
will
with a pipe extending
down
to a
be satisfactory, or a metal plate placed in
any stream or lake and connected
to the
instruments
will
work very well. If none of these are available, connection must be established by digging down to moist earth,
embedding a sheet of metal of 10 square feet or more of
surface,
and then pouring several bucketfuls
upon
before replacing the earth
The
it
buried plate
may
brine
of
dug from the
hole.
be of any metal except iron or
steel.
wire should extend from the switch of the instru-
ments
to the
-round
w'lYQ {Fig. 325).
Instead of removing the aerial wire from the instru-
ments
after use,
handier scheme
and connecting
is
it
between the
throw, double-pole knife switch
six
is
to the
ground
wire, a
to get a double-throw, single-pole k7iife
switch and connect
331.
it
aerial
shown
and the double-
in Figs.
325 and
This switch has three connections instead
on the double-throw, double-pole switch, and the

connected
at the center, the
ground
at
aerial
one end, and
the wire from the aerial connection on the switch

in Fig. 325 to the other end.
of the
shown
232
As many
this will
boys are satisfied with a receiving set only,
be described
first.
Good Receiving Outfit consists of one or a pair
of
and condenser,
to
telephone receivers^ detector, tuning-coil,
which a potentiometer and a dry battery and a second

condenser must be added
when
a detector of the micro-
Of these
the
The Telephone Receivers must be purchased
remaining instruments can be made by any boy. The
cheapest good telephone receivers, consisting of two
receivers mounted on a
phone type
is
used.
head-band with a double

connecting cord (Fig. 305)
cost
about $4, while a
-TO TUN I NC-
single receiver without a
Coil-Slideb
TO- Detector
bRTOBATTERV
head-band (Fig. 306) can

be bought for about $2.
NO POTENTIOMETEiy
Fig. 305.
A Good
Pair of Telephone
Fig.
306.
Single
Receivers with
When
buying a single
ceiver, take care to get
Receiver,
Head-band and
re-
one
a part of a double
that
is
set,
so that
Cord.
you may add
the other parts as you can afford them, and thus
make up
a complete set without having any unused parts
left
The
ordinary receiver such as
not at
all
especially
ohms
sensitive enough.
made
resistance (see
receiver
may
be
used on telephones
is
The
for " wireless "
is
receiver should be one
and should have 1000
Ohm, on page
used until a
over.
"
An
252).
wireless
"
ordinary
one can be
233
obtained, and interesting results can be secured with
much depends on
but as so
it,
a good receiver, most experi-
menters have a pair and pride themselves on possessing

a very sensitive
There
set.
are a great
Detectors,
some
of
nection, while others

is
many
types of
v^hich require
work
battery in con-
better without.
The
detector
necessary to change the "wireless" waves into such
form that
will
enable the telephone receivers to render
them audible, so that each wave

and be distinguished easil3^
The
silicon
very best
detector
without
made
is
of
some good
batteries, a
detectors
be given
first.
of
Microphone Detector, you
from dry
supply houses,
at certain
of easily obtainable materials will
For making one form
buzz
usually anxious to proceed
descriptions
delay,
like a
the silicon type, but as
is
can be obtained only
and as the experimenter
sound
will
will require
wood base about
-|
two
flat
carbons
inch by 3 inches
by 4 inches, four binding-posts (these may be taken from

carbons
of
copper, or
dry
old
tin,
batteries),
some
strips
of
brass,
a needle, and a paper fastener, or other
small piece of metal, for a weight.
Figure 307 shows the completed detector and
308
how
battery
sharp
Fig.
the pieces of carbon should be cut from the
carbons,
how
edge with a
their ends
file,
should be tapered to
and how the
or tin strips should be cut and bent.
brass, copper,
Cut the carbon
234
pieces
ij inches high and the brass pieces
2 J inches
Cut the projecting
long by the width of the carbons.
shown
a means
on
tips
as
top
the
edge
of
of preventing the needle
the
brass
pieces,
which spans the
between the carbons from being knocked
space
off,
File End to a
Sharp edge thus
Fig. 307
5e"ctio(si
Fig. 309.
A Home-made Microphone Detector.

(See
Fig. 308. How to prepare the Carbon and Brass Pieces.
Fig. 309. Section showing how to fasten the Pieces Together.
Fig. 307.
Fig. 326.)
and make the edge between the

carbon tops (see
on the carbons
Punch
places
make
The
holes
for
Fig.
only,
309), as
the
lower than the
needle
must
rest
and not touch the metal anywhere.
through the brass pieces
in the
proper
connecting them to the carbon pieces, and
others
for
connecting them to the base block.
carbons should be placed
inch apart.
tips
The
parallel
and about
needle should be considerably longer

than the distance between
its
235
bearing points, and
the
paper fastener, or other metal weight, should be placed

at the center to
right
most
amount
make
it
bear upon the carbons with the
By varying
of pressure.
should the weight be heavy, for

will not
will
it
the weight the
satisfactory adjustment can be found.
operate at
all.
If
if
it
is,
In no case
the
detector
you bend the needle
be easier to keep
it
in position.
slightly,
The proper
method of connecting the detector to the other

ments is shown in Figs. 307 and 326.
instru-
Razor Blade Microphone Detector requires a base of
the size specified for the other detector, two old blades
from a safety
razor, four binding-posts,
two
strips of
TO POTENTIOMETER Slider
TO Condenser no.2
-,
^TO TUNriMG-CoiLSLIOER
Also to tecephoneKeCErvEBS
Sapety-RazobvBlade
^^-i
^
Fig. 311.
Fig. 310.
A Safety-razor Blade Microphone Detector.

(See
Fig. 311. How to prepare the Brass Pieces.
Fig. 310.
Fig. 326.)
brass, copper,
detector
The
in
Fig.
is
or
shown
tin,
and a No.
lead-pencil.
This
in Fig. 310.
metal strips should be cut and bent as shown

311,
and holes should be punched
through
236
upper part opposite the center hole
the
and
blade
for
to
in the razor
the center of the lower part, as shown,
in
connecting the blades to the strips and the
strips
When
block by means of the binding-posts.
the
resemble, somewhat, the
completed, this detector will
one previously described, the razor blades being placed
and about
parallel
should be
of
split
placed
it
inch apart.
The No.
3 pencil
open, the graphite removed, and a piece
across the blades just as the needle wâs
The
placed across the carbons in the other detector.

projecting tips 'should
be cut on the brass pieces, as
shown, to prevent the graphite from rolling

the pencil
is
soft,
jarred
or
wave
and
tapped before
if
The
Silicon
the
lump
Detector
silicon
very quickly.
sized
be ready for another
too hard,
it
will
best degree of hardness

is
The
easily
enough
undoubtedly
not be
is
found
made and
SiHcon
is
the
it
best,
and
can be made
not expensive, a generous-
usually being sold for 25 cents.
silicon
strip of
is
has been obtained,
shows a simple form
(Fig.
is
is,
must be
it
it,
well.
The
when
will
This detector
in a No. 3 pencil.
works
it
the graphite
sensitive enough.
If
the detector will not restore, that
"wireless" wave has actuated
after a
off.
Figure 312
of this detector.
should be held to a base block by a
brass having holes
punched through
for the bolt of a binding-post to stick
313), and a small piece
of springy
it
large
through
wire should

be bent as
shown
end
to the
base
way
that
in
will
press very lightly on
the
silicon-,
as
shown
In using this de-
tector the
end
of the wire
on the
rests
silicon
should be moved around

the
until
spot
is
most sensitive
The
found.
ware
must never bear heavily

on the silicon.
Since no two wireless
stations, probably,
exactly the
it
one
at
such a
in
in
Fig. 312.
which
binding-post
end
other
the
and be secured
Fig. 314
block by a
237
Fig. 312.
Fig. 312.
Fig. 313.
Home-made
Strip
De-
of Brass with which
held to Binding-post.
is
Bend a Piece of Wire like

and connect as shown in Fig. 312.
Fig. 314.
this
Silicon
(See Fig. 325.)
Silicon
have exactly the same
same adjustment
would be very
tector.
of the
size aerials, or
sending instruments,
difficult for different stations to
municate unless some arrangements were made
to
com-
com-
pensate for the differences in construction and adjust-
ment.
The
simplest device for this
tunings as
it
is
called, is
The Tuning-coil
or Tuner.
It
is
a very essential part of
the outfit and should be constructed as soon as a detector has been completed.
The
tuner consists of a single layer of wire
upon a cylinder not
rolling-pin
the pin
is
may be
less
than 2^ inches in diameter.
of just the right size,

left
on
it
wound
to turn
it
and the handles
of
by while winding on
238
the wire, and sawed off afterwards.

this thickness, a length of
a sufficient
amount
1 1
of wire.
inches
is
For a cylinder
necessary to secure
The tuner should be wound
with copper wire not larger than No. 20 B.
and not smaller than No.

wire
or any other
obtain that which

best,
but as
it
24.
Do
The
enameled.
can be obtained
supply houses, you
may
&
S.
gauge
not use cotton-covered
kind of insulated wire,
is
of
if
you can
very
latter is the
only from
not be able to get
the
it,
in
larger
which
case you will have to use bare wire.
Before winding, give the core two coats of shellac

this will
form a yielding surface
for the wire to cut into
wood
and will keep the wire in place even though the

core shrinks after the coil has been completed.
you
If
use enameled wire, simply fasten one end to the rollingpin with a tack, near
its
end, and have an assistant turn
the pin while you guide the wire on to
it
and
closely
you reach the other end then secure the

ware with another tack and cut it off, leaving about 12
neatly, until
inches for connections.
more
difficult to
The
bare wire will be a
wind than the enameled
wire, as
little
it
will
be necessary to keep each turn from touching the adjacent turn by winding a thick thread, or thin cord, in
between the wire as

thread on at the
Even though
ter
this
is
shown
in Fig. 316,
winding
this
same time that you wind the wire.

requires some patience, it is much bet-
than winding the tuner with the ordinary cloth insu-
lated wire
and then attempting
to scrape bare the strip

along which the sliders run.
wound, give
adds to
Fig. 3 1
Fig.
its
it
239
After the tuner has been
two more coats
of shellac (this not only
appearance, but helps to keep the winding in
f^
7.
315.^ a Home-made
Fig. 316.
How to wind
Tuning-coil or Tuner.
Thread between the Turns of Wire
if
Bare Wire
is
used.
Fig. 317.
Prepare Two End Pieces
Fig. 318.
How the Sliders should be cut and bent.
Fig. 319.
Use this Form of Binding-post.
place), then cut off the
Two
like This.
handle ends of the rolling-pin.
end pieces 2^ inches square and f-inch
thick,
with J-inch notches cut out of two corners (Fig. 317),

should now be prepared and screwed to the ends of the
cylinder, to support
it
and the
slider rods.
The
rods
240
should be of brass of the size marked in Fig. 315, and

two ^-inch holes should be drilled through each near
one end, and one

other
The
end.
|^-inch
hole through each near the
rod can be procured
almost any
at
machine shop, and you can also get the holes drilled
there for a few cents.
The
sliders
sheet brass.
318,
round
off
should be
Cut two pieces
of thin
sleeve, as
but very springy
shown in Fig.
and then bend the other
of the size
one end of each,
end into a square

rod,
made
shown, to
fit
over the slider
and bend the rounded end so that
make
against the tuner and
contact with
should have another very slight bend

face as
it.
made
shown, so as to form a spring that
rounded end
it
bear
will
Each
slider
in its
upper
keep the
will
in perfect contact with the wire.
When
them on
to the
rods and screw the rods to the end pieces with
small
the sliders have been bent properly, slip
round-head screws.
enameled
wire, the
the tuner has been
wound with
enamel must be scraped
off carefully
If
along the path of the
slider,
and
if
bare wire has been
must be removed from the path of the

with sandpaper.
The sliders must make good
used, the shellac

sliders
contact both with the square rod and the wire winding,
or the wireless outfit will not operate.
Fasten a one-hole binding-post such as
is
shown
Fig. 319 in the two remaining holes in the rods,

fasten
shown.
an ordinary binding-post
Fasten the end
of the
to
in
and
one end piece as
wire winding to the
last-

mentioned
post,
and the apparatus
will
The proper connections
stallation.
241
be ready for
in-
marked
in
are
Fig- 315.
The Fixed Condenser.

edge
of electricity,
the part
it
Unless one has a
would be hard
played by the
it is
him
makes
to explain
condenser; however,
such a big difference in the strength

received that
knowl-
fair
necessary to use one.
of
to
it
the signals
When
a micro-
Cut 2 PIECES OF
CARDBOARD AND 21
SHEETS OF WRITINGPAPER Like this
Fig. 321.
Fig. 322.
Figs. 320-322.
phone detector is
up
in
Details of a Home-made Fixed Condenser.

used, a second condenser
connection with
it
as
shown
in the
must be wired
wiring diagram
(Fig. 326).
The
materials
required are a few sheets of
which can be procured from any
florist,
tin-foil,
some sheets
of
good writing-paper, cardboard, and some ordinary tire tape.

Cut as^many sheets of cardboard and paper as is specified
in Fig. 320, of the size
tin-foil
shown, and the number of pieces of
indicated in Fig. 321 of the shape and size shown.
242
Begin building up the condenser by placing one
upon a
pieces of cardboard
flat
upon
surface;
of the
this lay a
sheet of the paper, then on this place a sheet of the

foil
with the tab projecting at the
tin-
end; over this lay
left
another sheet of the paper, and then place another sheet
on top
of the tin-foil
the right end.
of this with
Continue
the tab projecting at
to build
up the condenser
this
way, reversing the tab on the alternate layers of
foil
(Fig. 322)
in
tin-
have been used.
until all of the sheets
Over the top sheet of paper lay the second piece of cardboard. Cut two pieces of insulated wire 12 inches or so
in length, bare one end of each, run them through the
ends of the cardboard top, and give them a couple of twists
(Fig. 322); then carefully press together the projecting
tabs
on the
tin-foil,
and wind the bared ends
of the wires
around them as shown on the
By
right end in Fig. 323.
run-
ning the wires through the card-
board as directed, whatever strain
^,
The
FiG. 323.
^.
is
Fixed Con-
denser
is
ering
as above with Bicycle
Tape.
it
completed by cov-
...
minal wires
will
cardboard and not
(See Figs. 32s and 326.)
in place
wrap the
ning
one end as shown
the delicate
tm-roil.
at
upon the tercome upon the
brousfht to bear
With the termmal wires
entire condenser with tire tape, beginin Fig. 323,
turn partly over the previous turn.
and lapping each
One
of these con-
densers should be connected directly across the telephone

receivers
as
shown
in Figs. 325
and 326, and when a

microphone detector
243
used, a second condenser should
is
be set in between the detector and the switch (Fig. 326).

If
you have constructed the siHcon detector
do not care
will
A
will
any
to use
not be necessary to
first
the other forms described,
of
purpose
Its
is
is
made
like the tuner, except that
Fig. 324.
is
much
you
to regulate with great
precision the battery current in the receiving circuit.
instead of two and
it
make
Potentiometer, but with a microphone detector
require one.
and
it
It
has only one slider
smaller (Fig. 324), and must
A Home-made Potentiometer.
(See Fig. 326.)
be wound with German-silver wire instead of copper.
This wire
ounces
inches long
be expensive to buy, as about two
be enough, and this
will
25 cents.
Wind
will not
A
is
amount
costs about
piece of a i^-inch curtain- or rug-pole 8

of
ample
size for the cylinder.
the cylinder with a layer of No. 24 bare
silver wire, separating the
between as directed
turns with thread
German-
wound
for the bare-wire tuner (Fig. 316).
in
In
the tuner only one end of the winding was connected to a
244
binding-post, but in
of
the wire
making
the potentiometer each end
must be attached
Give
to a binding-post.
ooeeo
Batterv
Where Silicon Oetectob is used

A Potentiometer and Battebv
ARE NOT NECESSARV- (SEE
10
Receiving Set
Fig. 325.
Drv Cells
im
Sep
FlG.326)
Transmitting Set
Complete Wiring Plan when a Silicon Detector
the coil a couple of coats of shellac, then

slider similar to the
make
ones made for the tuner
is
used.
a rod and
screw the
rod in place to the end pieces and fasten a binding-post

to
its
end.
The
slider
must make good contact with
both the wire and the slider rod.
This
completes
the
receiving
instruments.
They
should be arranged upon a board or table in some such
manner
as
shown
in Fig.
300 and wired up as shown in
Fig. 325 or Fig. 326, according to
With
which form
of detector
you should be able

to hear commercial companies for a distance of a hundred
miles, with the proper aerial, and all amateur stations in
your vicinity. The arrangement of the instruments is
is
used.
either receiving set
discussed upon page 248.

The Transmitting
receiving
Outfit is
nearly
set, for
all of
245
more expensive than the

the instruments have to be
OGGGG
Battery
10 orv cells in'series-paraixel
Receiving
Fig. 326.
Transmitting Set
Set
Complete
Wirino; plan
when a Microphone Detector
The
purchased, as they are too complex to make.

fit
is
used.
out-
consists of an induction-coil (spark-coil)^ spark-gap^
battery, key,
The
and switch.
Induction-coil (Fig.
327) consists of a few layers,
usually three or four, of a large size of insulated copper

iATTEBv Zinc
^^PRlMARV
TO-
Fig. 327.
An Induction-coil
Fig. 328.
first
wound upon
winding
is
to
make
a Spark-gap
on Coil Box with Battery Zincs.
or Spark-coil.
wire
How
Battery^
a core of
called the
soft,
primary.
bare-iron wires
Over
this is
this
wound
246
many
a great
this is called
many
turns, in
layers, of a very fine wire;
As
the secondary.
part of the chapter,
is
it
which to send out
"
explained in the
first
necessary to have a spark with
wireless
The dry
waves.
"
cells
are not capable of producing the right kind of
alone
spark as their voltage
is
But by sending a cur-
too low.
rent of a few volts' pressure through the primary of the

coil
another current of quite high voltage will be induced
secondary
in the
in fact, the voltage will
be sufiicient to
cause the electricity to jump across a considerable gap,
depending on the
Coils are usually rated
size of the coil.
according to the length of spark they are capable of

giving.
The
rent, so
an interrupter
coil will
not operate on a continuous curis
used in connection with the
primary.
A
will
i-inch coil costs about $5,
send several miles.
and with a good
|-inch coil
cheaper than the i-inch, while
its
is
aerial,
only a
sending radius
is
little
less
than one half as much.
The Spark-gap can be made by binding two battery

toSeconoarv
Fig. 329.
zincs
shown
A Home-made Spark-gap.
on the secondary terminals

in
of the spark-coil, as
Fig. 328, or a simple frame
may be made
to
247
you make a
hold the zincs, as shown in Fig. 329.
If
frame, set in a couple of screw-eyes as
shown
for set-
screws.
The
may
induction-coil
be operated by dry
cells or a
storage battery.
Storage Battery
satisfactory
expensive in
is
and cheaper
in the end.
cost, but more

Sometimes a good
first
second-hand one can be bought cheap
at
a near-by
garage.
Dry
Batteries, or
dry
cells,
can also be obtained from a
an automobile
the "wireless"
dry
but
cells,
if
another
it
and 333).
parallel.
ten
cells in parallel, or
end
of the other pair of
This form of connection
When
in
series,
multiple;
to
complete set of
connection
If five
add more
five,
cells (Figs.
known
is
cells
325
as series-
the zincs are joined together, also
all
carbons, the
and you wish
The
all
(Fig. 333), connect each ^n^ in series
multiple (Fig. 333).
cells in
can be obtained, they should
connecting
connect the carbons of one pair of end
is,
and the zincs
the
i-inch coil will require five
five
and then connect the end
all
too
connecting the carbon of each to the zinc of the
is,
one next to
that
still
The
coil.
Instead of
also be used.
that
these are
when
weak to spark
plenty good enough for
garage, where they are discarded
as there
is
cells
cells,
must
called parallel, or
are used in a series
you must add another

be the
same number of
each series.
dots
and dashes
of the telegraph
code are made on
248
The Wireless Key (Fig.
jump
how
330),
which makes the spark
for a longer or shorter period of time according to
pressed.
good cheap key
costs about 50 cents,
a full brass key about $1.
As
the aerial
ceiving,
is
used alternately for sending and
some means must be employed
re-
for connecting
ToBatterv>
To- Ground
Fig. 330.
A Good Form of
FiG. 331.
Wireless Key.
A Double-throw,
Double-pole Knife Switch.
the sending instruments and then in turn the receiving
instruments.
This
is
accomplished by
The Knife Switch shown
in
Fig.
331,
known
This
double-throw, double-pole hiife switch.
as
will cost be-
tween 30 and 50 cents, according to where purchased.

The connections are marked upon the illustration of the
switch and are also shown upon the wiring diagrams
(Figs. 325
and
326).
By studying the diagrams you

of
connecting up
all
ranged upon a board or
Good Arrangement
in
find the
manner
the instruments clearly indicated.
This should not be done
have them
will
until after they
table.
for the
have been
ar-
Figure 300 shows

Instruments
your bedroom, and that
is
if
you wish to
where most boys
generally keep them so that they are always within easy
you haven't a desk or table in your room, you

can construct one similar to one of those illustrated in
reach.*
If

Chapters
The
VI and IX.
idea
is
to place the instruments
Screw the base
where they can be operated handiest.

each instrument to the table to keep
When
Operation of Instruments.
mitting set
it
of
in position.
the key of the trans-
pressed, the vibrator on the
is
249
end
of the
spark-coil box will buzz, and a shower of sparks will
jump
gap between the zincs of the spark-gap.

the aerial and ground are not connected to the
across the
When
spark-coil,
it
rated as a
will give a
i-inch
coil),
enough; but when the

one
to
long spark (about
inch
provided the battery
is
if it is
strong
and ground are attached,
aerial
each secondary binding-post of the
coil,
it
will
be impossible to get a spark longer than J inch, as the

aerial and ground will be acting as a "capacity"; that is,
the coil will be carrying a
"
load."
If
the coil gives a
good spark with the ground connection, but no spark at

all when connected to the aerial, it shows that the insulation of the wire leading in from the aerial is defective
somewhere. This wire must be supported on insulators
at every point from the aerial
To Receive a
Call.
If
down
to the switch.
two complete stations are erected
within a few miles of each other, one station should begin

calling
the
other at
certain
times
previously agreed
upon, while the operator at the station called should

listen
carefully
through his receivers, slowly moving
backward and forward the
sliders
on
his tuner
and occa-
sionally adjusting his detector until he hears the station
calling him.
When
the station ceases calling, the receiv-
250
ing operator should throw over his switch and answer.
Each
station should be designated
initials of
by a
call,
The amateur should
the owner.
usually the
not do things
haphazard way, but should become familiar with the
in a
regular practice used in commercial wireless
To
government and commercial
receive
must
of
know
course
know who
you
their calls in order to be able to
The
calling.
is
stations.
stations
pamphlets containing
all
electrical journals advertise
the principal stations, which
can be purchased for lo or 15 cents.
To make a
Suppose
Call.
station
CGS
station
CMW, He
several
times and at intervals signs his
this
proceeds to
CMW CMW
and then
CGS\
the letters
call
own
call
CMW
call,
like
followed by a slight pause,
then he repeats the operation, finally
ending by making
the operator at
CMW,
wishes to
J,
which
CMW
is
When
the finish signal.
picks up the
he does not
call,
answer until he hears the J signal; then hearing nothing

else, he knows definitely that the operator at CGS has
stopped calling, has placed his switch in position for
ceiving,
Two
and
is
waiting for him
{CMW)
is
to answer.
Codes are used in " Wireless," the Morse code and
the Continental code (Fig. 332).
very
re-
much
While
difference between the two, the
used almost
should learn.
entirely in this
The
dots
country and
and dashes
is
of the
there
is
not
Morse code
the one you
code
v/ill
be
heard through the receivers as short and long buzzes.
Adjust the
sliders
on the tuning-coil
until
the signals
251
are heard the loudest, and adjust the sHder on the poten-
tiometer in the same
ing
Do
set.
way
if
you use one
not regulate the latter
so that the current from the battery

cell
have
it
little
Good
d
p
Way
to learn the Code
After the code has been
is
to
while you copy the message he sends
^"^
and question mark, as
memo-
a very great mistake to
--
Although any boy interested
in
"wireless" can successfully install and
operate an outfit from the directions
be a very great aid to
possible,
for the use
some amateur
and purpose
station,
^"^2,
71"-."
neglect the punctuation and numerals.
visit, if
.'ITL
get a smattering of the alphabet and
will
'~
\'\,\
"~1'
--"-'
it
well as the letters, should be
given,
17.V
period,
it is
;2IZ
In learning the code, the numerals,
=*
**
A good buzzer costs
about 25 cents..
rized, as
l
n
J
w
S.7..
"^~'
h
o
take your turn pending
while he receives,
comma,
memo-
can se7id on the buzzer
rized, a friend
may
J.".
.-.
is
ordinary electric buzzer and one dry
then you
continental
better to
it
connect your telegraph key with an
cell.
Morse
too vêak than so strong
that the detector will not operate.
your receiv-
11.'.
too strong, for
is
in
.'-1111"1
3
5
1
9
- The
îg. 332.
Codes used
in
Two
wire-
M^rs^'f^fYs'
eraiiy
used
in
g^n'-
this
country,
of the different instruments will
252
be better understood and
many
valuable
gained
ideas
from seeing them in operation.
While many
units are used in
need be considered
Electrical Measurements, only three
by the amateur operator.
These are the
volt,
the ohm,
and the ampere.

The Volt
is
The Ampere
Ohm
The
is
the unit of electrical pressure,

is
the unit of current strength, and
The
the unit of resistance.
latter is prob-
ably most readily understood by those not familiar with
Any
electrical work.
wire, sheet-metal,
conductor
carbon-rod,
of electricity,
such as
offers resistance just
etc.,
as the sides of a ditch offer resistance to water flowing
through that ditch.
If
the ditch were
cement, the water would flow through
than
if
made
it
of
smooth
more
readily
the sides were of rough projecting logs.
same way some substances have low
In the
resistance to elec-
trical currents, while others have high resistance.
Silver
has the least resistance, copper comes next, iron has considerable,
much
and an
that
it is
alloy,
known
as
German
silver,
h^s so
used for making resistance coils and for
other purposes where resistance
is
required (see Poten-
in a ditch
unless forced to do
tiometer),
Water
so.
If
will not flow
the ditch
ran
down
the hillside, of course the
water would flow downhill in the ditch, and the steeper

the
hill,
the greater the pressure would be.
way, electricity will not flow unless there
In the
is
same
a pressure

behind
it,
readily
it
and the higher the pressure
is,
as this
(voltage), the
more
will flow.
The ampere
that
253
represents the broadness of the "ditch,"
the depth and breadth of the " stream of water,"

is
decidedly a
differ-
ent quantity tlian the pressure
behind
it.
better understanding of
the volt and the ampere will
be gained through practical
The ohm
grasped when it
work.
is
is
readily
learned
that about 150 feet of No. 18
copper wire has a resistance

of
ohm.
Connection of Dry Batteries.

Batteries, or,
speaking,
dry
connected in
(also
known
more properly
cells,
may be
series,
parallel
as mtiltiple), or a
10
DRV-CE-LLS WIRtD
Fig. 333.
of
combination
of
These
connections are described
under Dry Batteries on page
333.
Now
for an
whole
set wdll
If
IN
SERIES-PARALLEL'
Three Methods
Wiring Battery
Cells.
both ways,
called series- parallel.
and amperes.
The
(Showing 5 cells and the voltage and

approximate amperage obtained by
each method.)
247,
and shown
Fig.
in
application of the two units, volts
the cells are connected in series, the
have the combined voltage of
all
the
cells,
but the current in amperes will be only that of one
cell
254
the cells are alike and uniform)
(if
are
connected
all
only one
while,
in parallel, the voltage will
be equal to the combined amperage of
each dry
if
and 20 amperes,
cell is
five cells
333) would give 5 times
amperes.
be that of
For
the cells.
all
capable of giving
1.5
volts
connected in series (see Fig.

1.5
volts, or 7.5
volts,
and 20
they were connected in parallel, there would
If
be no change like this
main
the cells
but the current strength, or amperage, will
cell,
example,
if
1.5 volts
in the voltage,
or the voltage of a single
which would
cell,
re-
but the cur-
rent strength would be 5 times 20 amperes, or 100 am-
peres (Fig. 333).

It is
not
difficult to
cells in series-parallel.
determine the result of connecting

In Figs. 325 and 333 there are
ten cells connected in series-parallel, five cells in each of
two
series.
but
when
Each
and 20 amperes,
and 40 amperes, which you

It must be
understand from the examples given.
bined output
will
set will give 7.5 volts
the two sets are connected parallel, the comwill
be
7.5 volts
borne in mind, however, that while a dry

as
high as
amount
20 amperes by
test,
this
is
cell will
give
an excessive
draw from it and would exhaust it

Four or 5 amperes is as much as
in a very short time.
should be used, and if more than this is required, the
As mentioned
cells must be placed in series-parallel.
must
combination
series
series-parallel
of a
before, each
of current to
contain the same

of three
number
of cells.
For
cannot be put in parallel with a
instance, a set
set of four, for

the voltage of the four set
three
set,
and
it
set
and
in time
exhaust the four
set
set.
ordinary spark-coil requires considerable current,
pays to lessen the heavy burden on the battery by
using two series in parallel.
each
greater than that of the
and a current would flow from the four
through the three
The
is
255
series,
but
Four
five are better.
cells
may
be used for
About
show
the best kind of
for a
neighborhood
boys, a boys' club, or a school organization to give

in
which each boy can do a special act or
may be an
"
of
is
one
stunt."
It
exhibition of magic-lantern views, a sleight-
of-hand performance, panorama or puppet show, boxing-
match, or one of an endless variety of entertaining
The strong man^ magical mortar^

voice, crack-shot,
and
acts.
boy with a wonderful
ventriloqtiist acts described in this
chapter are easy to prepare.
Sam Dow,
the strong
man
(Fig.
334),
should wear a
long-sleeved shirt with the shoulders and sleeves padded
and should also pad the

padding throws the muscles
out to form large
muscles,
calves of his legs;
if
this
out of their natural positions, so
For the great
much
the better.
act of
Holding out a Chair upon which a
Boy
is seated,
you
will
need an old seatless chair or a box with the ends
knocked out and two uprights and crosspieces nailed to

Drape the chair or box with
it for a back (Fig. 335).
a sheet or a piece of cloth of any kind large enough to
256
FOR A
Fig. 334.
BOYS'
VAUDEVILLE SHOW
Sam Dow, " The Strong
257
Man," holding a Seated Boy
at
Arm's
is
held
Length.
hang down
to the floor all
around when the chair
length (Figs. 334 and 336), leaving the seat

out
opening uncovered. Next get a pair of short trousers,
at arm's
stuff the legs, fasten a pair of stuffed stockings
to the knees,
fit
the feet into a pair of shoes,
and then fasten the legs to the chair, as shown

in
Fig. 336.
seated
The boy who
is
upon the chair stands
in the seat
to appear to be
in
the
opening
with the waist of the false trousers
fastened and concealed under his coat (Fig. 334).
While the chair stands on the floor, the bov

rests on his knees, but when the strong man
'
^'^'
^^^\
Framework
of Chair.
258
grasps the back of the chair with his hand and com-
mences
to
lift,
the position
Two
the boy slowly^ arises to his
shown by the dotted
feet,
taking
lines in Fig. 334.
attendants should carry the chair on to the stage,
and the
"
seated
"
boy should hold on

lift
to the sides
and
his feet so as to give the
boys an actual load to carry
Sam Dow
After
in.
has
held the chair by each hand,
and then by one

audience
will
with laughter
finger, the
be convulsed
if
the chair
is
allowed to remain in the air

a few seconds after he has
upon
released his hold
A
Fig. 336.
The
Draped Chair with
False Legs Attached.
away
"
ance
of this kind.
the trick in
it.
great deal of additional
fun Can always be furnished

^^ ^^^ audience
some such manner
by
"
giving
after a perform-
The famous
Make
Dumb-bell Lifting Feat must not be overlooked.

the
2000-lb.
dumb-bell like that
preparing each end out of
shown
Make
curtain-pole or iron pipe
struck by the strong
man
Fig.
337,
two barrel-hoops crossed
at right angles with the cross-piece
center (Fig. 338).
in
fastened in the
the handle out of a piece of

if
the latter
to
is
used,
it
show the audience
can be
that
it
FOR A
really is
made
BOYS'
VAUDEVILLE SHOW
259
Fasten the ends of the handle in
of iron.
A.
holes bored through cross-pieces
Cover the hoops
with cloth, then on top of this place enough padding to
Fig. 338.
the
How
Ends
are
Constructed.
The Strong Man's

Heavy Dumb-bell.
337.
fill
out the flattened portions and
make them
perfectly
round, and cover the padding with black cloth.

the handle black and letter the weights
Paint
upon the ends
with white paint.
couple of boys should drag the dumb-bell on to the
stage, then
by
Sam Dow
should demonstrate his strength
upon
it
with each hand, holding
balancing
it
on end upon his head, lying down upon
back and
lifting
lifting
teeth
by means
handle.
it
with his
of
feet,
a piece
of
and
it
lifting
it
his chin,
his
with his
rope tied around
the
26o
The
man may demonstrate
strong
as
his
ability
or
bowHng
juggler by
croquet
Juggling with Heavy Balls
balls
covered with silver or black paper, and he should intro-
duce as a special attraction

Bonehead, the
which
man
with a head of solid ivory, upon
can be dropped without any
500-lb. cannon-balls
apparent
Two
effect.
must be used
balls
in this stunt
balls
size
an association foot-ball or a
for the
ball
you can get them, otherwise

and a rubber ball of the same size.
other are just the things
Cover the
same
exactly the
and a large bowling
basket-ball for one,
use a croquet ball
of
if
with black paper or
tin-foil to
make them
look as nearly alike as possible.
Sam Dow
allow
see that
as
first pick up the heavy ball and

upon the stage floor to let the audience
solid then he must pick up the rubber ball
were of the same weight and with an ap-
should
to crash
it
it is
though
it
parent effort toss
it
into the air so that
the head of Bonehead.

as soon as
it
bounces
Sam Dow
off of
it
will
should catch the ball
Bonehead and
toss
side of the stage out of view of the audience.
ing sound should be
made
make
it
to
a big
one
side.
The
it
to
one
crack-
the instant the ball strikes
Bonehead, and a louder crashing noise when

throws
land upon
Sam Dow
strong man's stunts always
hit.
The Magical Mortar (Fig.
339).
Get a sugar
barrel
from your grocer and a packing-case about 30 by 30 by
FOR A
40 inches
in size at a
struct the mortar.
them
BOYS'
VAUDEVILLE SHOW
dry-goods
If
store,
them
out of which to con-
the barrel has wire hoops, fasten
to the staves with small staples
fasten
261
wooden hoops,
Knock out
if
to the staves with small nails.
the bottom of the barrel and
saw away part
of
one
side,
shown in Fig.
340, and cut away a
as
little
of
one end
the box for end
the
barrel
fit
of
in
set
end
inside of the
box
(Fig-
to
of
339);,
(Fig. 339)
hoops
its
and fasten
{D,
Fig.
340) to the box sides.
Make
the bearing
blocks as shown
C (Fig.
Fig. 339.
Fig. 339.
at
Fig. 340.
339) and tack
The Magical Mortar.

How the Barrel Cut.
is
a piece of cloth over end
B and
Cut a 20-inch opening
one side
in
to the
edges of the box.
of the
box
for a
door
(see dotted lines. Fig. 339).
The Professor exhibiting the mortar must have two

assistants.
box,
No.
and No.
2 to
to operate the mortar
wait
The Wonderful Hat
upon him.
Trick, the
an old derby, fedora, or straw
from within the
For
professor should
hat, a duplicate of
has been placed inside of the mortar, and in

of
the
audience tear
it
take
which
full
view
into bits, then put the pieces
262
bag
into a paper bag, throw the
Of course
as the mortar
throws out the
bag
in the
duplicate
standing behind
"
by having some one

a
having
hat,
it,
first
placed
it
of the torn hat.
charged from the
is
condition.
discharged assistant No.
removing the pieces
after
The mortar
cans
is
and
into the mortar,
shoot the hat from the mortar in a whole
nail
keg "powder
is produced
and the report
sheet-iron with
strike a piece of
hammer.
The
Other Mortar Stunts.
dog
in the
mortar and
of a string of sausage,
in a similar
fire
may
professor
place
out his "remains" in the form
and transform
sorts of things
all
manner.
Assistant No.
should wear a false-face in order to
be prepared for
The Professor's Final Exhibition.
"gun powder,"
Having run out
of
the professor sends assistant No. 2 for
more, and after he has gone, moves the mortar to one

side of the stage in such a position that assistant No.
can crawl out through the opening in the
The
side.
professor no sooner turns around to the audience than

there
is
the sound of a terrific explosion (strike a piece
of sheet-iron with a
hammer), and what appears
the assistant's body
is
thrown upon the
to be
stage, with
its
head, arms, and legs dismembered.
The
"
professor
powder," then
mourns the
thinks
announces that he
will
of
loss of his assistant
the
put the
magical
man
mortar
and
and
together again.
FOR A
He
members
gathers up the
goes out and
in the mortar,
on to the
the
Instantly
much
and
stage,
263
them
"
powder
of the body, places

rolls
a barrel of
"
moving the mortar back

loads and discharges it.
jumps forth whole and very
after
center of the
the
to
VAUDEVILLE SHOW
BOYS'
stage,
assistant
Of course he crawls into the box, through
alive.
the hole in the side, while
is
it
over at one side of the
stage.
Make
Dummy
the
Assistant,
thrown
in at the time of
the explosion, out of old clothes, ripping off the sleeves
and legs
of a coat
and pair
upon
it
of trousers
Make
part with newspapers.
and stuffing each
a stuffed head,
a false-face similar to the
and fasten
one worn by the
assist-
ant so the heads will look exactly alike.
great success
front
in
back
Your
you out
At
bass, the
left
verse
four assistants,
of
the
two
alto,
the other with a soprano
probably be
stage
of the
the
willing
certain
to
receive.
help
young
vocalist sings
a song in pantomime, while the as-
of the curtain
Responding
singing.
to
performance.
sistant with the tenor voice stands directly
on the other side
boys,
with a tenor voice, and
unseen part
of
stands
across the stage, and
other
sisters will
in this
the
first
are
one with an
girls,
He
an amateur vaudeville.
curtain stretched
curtain
of this
voice.
the
in
of
one with a
two
boy with a wonderful voice, proved a
the
Falsetto,
to
and does the actual
the applause,
Falsetto
bows,
behind him
which
he
is
walks over nearer
264
the
center of
second verse
he moves a
his
voice
sings
the
the
soprano voice
in a
for the
little
to
bass
verse
at
and
and here
an alto voice he
in
extreme
the
verse
third
farther over to the right,
changes
fourth
and goes through with the
stage,
right
of
the
stage.
With
practice a
little
proper expression to the
you
will find that this act
hits of the
boy
will
be able to get the
mouth and when well done

will make one of the biggest
;
show.
The Ventriloquist who throws

of a doll in
such a way that
it
his voice into the
mouth
sounds to the audience
though
as
the
doll
were actually speak<^l
ing
always a good
is
entertainer.
It is
ter to
a simple mat-
make
Ventriloquist's
Doll (Fig. 341),
and
if
you haven't the power

of
throwing your voice
and talking without
moving your
lips,
you
can obtain just about
7T~
Fig.
n~
Tj
"I
341. The
^^
good
results
by
Ventriloquist operating the
Speaking Doll.
having
an
assistant
behind a curtain back
FOR A
BOYS'
VAUDEVILLE SHOW
265
do the talking while you operate the
of the doll
doll's
head and mouth.
Make
the head framework (Fig.
and buy a
strips,
false-face for the face.
E5
long,
and i^ 16
inches
2|^
long.
Fig. 343.
between
Fig. 342.
for
and C, and center
Fig.
of Ventrilo-
343. The DolPs
False-face.
Cut
(Fig. 342).
Framework
Head
quist Doll.
E upon B and C
Fig. 344.
Complete
the false-face as
Framework
shown
Body.
in
Fig.
343, tack the

upper portion to
strips
at 1,2,
at 4
nail.
inches
Fasten the end
strip
9^ inches
long,
of
Cut
4 inches long,
and
342) out of i-inch
and
and
pivot the end of

a
Fig. 344.
Fig. 342.
3 (Figs. 342
With
mouth
of DolPs
little
and 343), and the chin to strip

between strips B and C with a
care in pivoting
the
jaw
in place,
will open and close to a nicety.

Fasten
band between A and
and a piece of string
with a small ring tied to its end to the under side of
the
a rubber
(Fig.
and
342).
C,
and
Set strip
after
between the lower end
fastening
lower part round as shown.
it
in place whittle
of
the
266
Cut the body
strips
H and
in length, the foot blocks
the shoulder cross-piece
344) 30 inches
6 inches long, and
(Fig.
/ and K
G 15 inches
Nail the
long.
pieces together as shown, and fasten a barrel-hoop to
H and
strips
1 2X L\
bore a hole in the center of
enough for the neck strip

to turn in.
With the framework prepared it is a simple matter to
put a suit of clothes upon it and stuff it out with rags
large
and newspapers.
Paste paper across the eye-openings
and paint the pupils with water-colors

back
of
build out the
the head with paper and cover
Fasten a collar and necktie around the
it
with cloth.
neck and
doll's
a pair of stuffed gloves in the ends of the sleeves for
Pin up the
hands.
tails of
the coat, so you can reach
the end of stick F, and slip your finger through the cord
jaw-manipulator.
Prepare a conversation to carry on with the

several songs for
to
talk
him
with him.
to sing,
The
doll, select
and request your audience
success
of
this
act
depends
upon how well the ventriloquist manipulates the

head and jaws of the doll and keeps the movements in
time with the talking assistant.
If there is enough
entirely
space behind the curtain for the assistaijt to walk from

side to side of the stage, the ventriloquist
may
carry the
doll about.
Willie Shute, the crack shot of the world, shoots portraits
upon
audience.
targets,
an act
which
will
interest
any
FOR A
The Targets are easy

pieces
fresh
grocery
of
store.
(Fig. 345)
VAUDEVILLE SHOW
BOYS'
267
For these get some
to prepare.
heavy manila wrapping-paper

Sketch
upon one
simple
outline
of
the
at
head
sheet, then get a piece of small brass
tubing (an old gas-burner
will do)
and
file
one end
to a
^sawr**^
Fig. 348.
--
f
H.'-.i'
I^=
:=
-=1
Fig. 345.
Fig. 346.
Fig. 347.
The Outline of the " Portrait shot out by " Willie Shute."
The Reverse of the " Portrait showing the Paper Strips
the Holes.
Fig. 347. The Blank Paper which the Audience
sees.
Fig. 348. Blunderbuss made for " Willie Shute."
"
Fig. 345.
Fig. 346.
"
over
first
sharp cutting edge.
Lay
the sheet upon a piece of lino-
leum, and, with the tubing as a punch and a
hammer
to
punch out holes along the sketched outline

Lay this punched sheet upon another sheet
of the same kind of paper and mark the location of each
hole, then cut away all except enough to cover the
holes.
Tack the punched sheet upon a wooden frame,
strike
it,
(Fig. 345).
"
268
stretching the paper as tight as possible, then fasten the

cut-out portion of the second sheet over the back of the
Make
holes with small paper strips (Fig. 346).
names
portraits, also write out the
whom
ence
on which
you expect, and
to shoot the
few
for a final stunt
words
The frames should be
of a
"
Good Night
of the audi-
have a target
!
row upon a
set in a
several
table
and
be surrounded by draperies to conceal the assistant be-
hind them.
from
The
thrown upon the targets
light should be
from showing as a
in front, to prevent the holes
result of shadows.
Willie Shute announces that he will shoot the portrait

of a
boy upon the
aims
at the target
As
trigger.
off the
first target,
then with a small gun he
and commences
to
cock and pull the
snaps the assistant tears
fast as the trigger
paper backing, beginning at
(Fig. 346).
The
audience will see nothing but a blank piece of paper at

first
(Fig. 347), but as each hole
up black
in
one
shot.
you haven't a toy gun, you can

a stick and attach some kind of trigger
make
If
a clicking sound.
your performance
long and
show
fastening a tin funnel upon the
Program Board upon which
12 inches
will
(Fig. 348) an entire portrait can be
whittle one out of

that will
it
gun
of a toy
made
uncovered
With
(Fig. 345).
A Blunderbuss made by
end
is
by 18
C and
is
shown
in size,
D8
to
announce each act
in Fig. 349.
and cut
strips
inches long.
of
Make the board
A and B
16 inches"
Paint the board white
FOR A
and
letter the
word
BOYS'
"
VAUDEVILLE SHOW
Program
"
269
across the top with black
Cut the number'' slips 4 inches by 19, out of

cardboard, and letter the names of the acts upon them.
paint.
Hang
one
''
this
board at
side of the stage
where an attendant
can reach
to
it
easily
change the num-
ber
slips.
Have the boy

who owns a print-
M.
sPROGRAM
SAM DOW
B
Fig. 349.
A Program Board.
ing-press
Print the Admission Tickets, with the type set
form used
for theater tickets.
up
in the
ffiâ
CHAPTER XVI
MOVING PICTURES
You may have your own moving
pictures at
home by
making
A Simple Machine such as shown

consists
of a
cardboard cyhnder with

sides,
which
base
fastened
is
slots cut
In its
mounted upon a wooden

to
while the pictures

of
This toy
in Fig. 350.
end
the
are
stick,
made on
strips
of
cardboard and represent a man, horse,
dog, or some other subject, in action,
drawn in just the

would appear in a
positions in which
series of
The
taken in rapid succession.
it
photographs
strips of
pictures are placed, one at a time, inside

of the cylinder close
Fig. 350.
A Mov'
facing
in,
to
the sides and
then the cylinder
is
whirled
ing-picture Machine
around by means
it
is
sides
pivoted,
and by looking through the
you see a number
ever the figures
upon
of the stick
of
upon which
slots. In
the
men, horses, dogs, or what-
may be, moving
just as they
would appear
the screen at a regular moving-picture show.

270
MOVING PICTURES
271
The Wooden Base for the cardboard cylinder

thing to
first
about
make
"I
Upon
(Fig. 351).
inch thick describe
is
the
a piece of board
5J inches in diameter with

a compass, or if you haven't a
circle
compass, hunt up a jug or china

saucer of this diameter and
out around
its
rim.
With
saw or a coping-saw
mark
a scroll-
be
will
it
easy to follow the circle in sawing out the base, but with a large
saw
it
will
be necessary to cut
off first the four corners
board close to the
circle,
of
the
then the
eight corners thus produced, then

the
sixteen corners, and
until
it
is
as
so
on
round as you can get
The Base for the

Cardboard Cyhnder.
The Spool and
Fig. 352.
Pencil which are glued to
Fig. 351.
the Base.
it,
and then
finish off
the edge with a chisel and sandpaper.
Bore a |-inch hole through the center
the base,
of
then get a lead-pencil 6 inches long (or whittle a stick to
same size) and three spools, two of which will fit

tight upon the pencil and the third loose.
The holes
the
in spools of different shapes vary a trifle in size, so prob-
ably you will find that mother or sister has just what
you want.
spool
it
Push the upper end
so that about
and the top
\ inch
of the spool
of the pencil
through
projects (Fig. 352), cover
with glue, and stick
it
through
the hole bored in the base (Fig. 351); then press spool
272
against the base until
it
is
on to the pencil and glue spool
glued
Con
fast.
to the
Slip spool
end (Fig. 354).
For the Cylinder get some light-weight cardboard that

be easy to
will
mark out
cut,
a piece 3^ inches wide
and
-If^
t
\
4Y^
'
CM
Fig. 353.
Pattern for Cardboard Cylinders.
inches long (Fig. 353), and
16-I
equal distances apart.
mark
off the ten slots at
Cut out the cyHnder with a pair
shears or a sharp knife, then tack
of
its
lower edge to the edge of the wooden

base, as
shown
in Fig. 354,
and glue
the ends of the cardboard together.
The Clown and Ball Pictures (Fig.
shown four
355) are
pieces, as are
The Circus Horse and Hound Pictures

(Fig.
356).
Each
set
together end to end will

just lrno-
inside
'
i.a
do
'
will
enough
the
when
make
to reach
cylinder.
you
them
joined
a strip
around the
They
are
1 size, so all
will
have to
e to trace
off
upon a
piece of transparent paper and then

transfer
them upon a piece
FiG.
of
heavy
paper or light-weight cardboard, plac-
354.
The
Com-
pleted Moving-picture
Machine.
MOVING PICTURES
ing the ends A, B, and
continuous
strip.
To
together so
273
as
to
form a
hold the strips in place against
number of small brads

into the top of the base just far enough away from the
edge so the strips will slip between them and the cylin-
the sides of the cylinder, drive a
der (Fig. 351).
by the middle spool with

one hand and make the cylinder revolve by turning the
bottom spool with the other hand (Fig. 350).
To operate the Toy, hold
it
The Automobile. Figure 357 shows a modern adaptaGive the book

tion of an old form of optical illusion.
Fig. 357.
Give the Book a Circular Motion and see the Automobile Run.
a circular motion, at the
same time looking
steadily at
the center of the picture, and the wheels will immediately
appear to revolve and the machine to run.

By cutting out a side view of an automobile from a
magazine or newspaper advertisement and mounting
it
a;
iB
^
Fig. 355.
Moving Picture Set No.
i.
jr_.-i^
!l
MiM ^
Fig. 356.
Moving Picture Set No.

274
2.
^
The Clown and
Ball.
Adapted
The
from, Muybridge's "
Circus Horse and Hound."

275
Bi
Animals in Motion.'
276
upon a piece of cardboard, then preparing two circular

disks of the same size as the wheels with a series of concentric circles inscribed upon them as shown in Fig. 357,
and pasting these over the printed wheels, you
this optical illusion in a
Fig. 358.
The
more convenient form
Revolving Wheels.
The
will
have
to handle
inner wheel runs in the opposite
direction from the outer wheels.
and
in
such shape that you can carry
pocket to show to
all
it
about in your
your friends.
Another interesting optical illusion is

The Revolving Wheels shown in Fig. 358. By giving
the book a circular motion and gazing at the center of
MOVING PICTURES
the
illustration the outer
rapidly, just as those of the
wheel
that in
If
will turn
wheels
will
277
begin to revolve
automobile did, and the inner
very slowly in the direction opposite to
which the outer wheels run.
you own a pair
of
compasses, you will find this
tration very easy to lay out
cardboard.
The
upon a piece
of
illus-
paper or
inner circle should be described
first,
then a larger circle upon which to locate the centers

the outer wheels should be
Fig. 359.
Boxing-match.
draw the book up to your

lower and raise the book
match.
center.
Gaze steadily at the center of the picture,

and the boys will appear to come together
succession, and you will see a lively boxing-
face,
in
drawn with the same
of
78
and the radius
this larger circle will
of
be the proper
spacing for the centers of the wheels.
An
illusion of
interesting
an entirely different kind but no
The Boxing-match shown
in
for looking at this are printed
You may make

motor
less
is
cycles,
Fig. 359.
below the
The
directions
illustration.
cards with pictures of automobiles,
and aeroplanes
in similar positions, as
it is
easy to find side views of these machines in the advertisements in magazines;
then when you have mounted
these at the proper distance apart, you will have a set of
moving
pictures
airship
showing automobile and motor cycle
which
now common occurrences

and
collisions -which we will probably witness
smash-ups
are
within a short time.
m^H
CHAPTER
XVII
A SNOW BATTLESHIP
Here, boys,
battleship
addition
is,
of
is
new
in construction,
turrets,
conning-tower,
make and adds

little
to do,
greatly to the sport of a
carpenter work
and
all
may be done
to the spot
The
pieces
may
is
snow
necessary, but this
is
sawing and a good portion

indoors.
mast, and
funnels,
This extra equipment
fighting-tops (Fig. 360).

to
snow fight. A snow

really a snow fort, with the
idea for a
is
easy
fight.
simple
of the nailing
then be carried
on which you are going to build the ship and
set in place.
The
central portion of the ship, directly below the con-
ning-tower and
The Central
known
as
shown in Fig. 361. Out

make two frames similar
of
to
driving three or four
nails
clinching their ends.
The
diagonal
will
strips,
framework such as is
any boards you can get
that shown in Fig. 362,
Station, requires a
but this
is
through each corner and

corners
may
be braced with
not necessary, for the frames
be held rigid enough when embedded in snow.
Cut
two boards 3 feet 6 inches long for the cross-pieces

279
28o
and F, and enough boards

to roof the top of the
of the
same length with which
framework.
i^^>/
Fig. 361.
On
Framework of the Central Station.
the site selected for the battleship set up the two
frames as shown in Fig. 361
and
F between
nail roof
board
them
fasten the cross-pieces
above the ground, and
2 feet
in place; leave a space of 22 inches
for the conning-tower,
then roof the rest of

-^
the top with the boards
you have cut
for the
purpose (Fig. 361).

If
there
is
plenty of
snow,
Build
the
Hull
your battleship
Fig. 362. Make Two Frames
like This.
on both
sides,
there
not
is
of
alike
but
if
enough
A SNOW BATTLESHIP
do
to
this,
281
stand the framework against the fence or wall
and build only one side.

Figure 361 shows how the hull should be marked
snow with
out in the
bow and
about
inside
The
stern.
the
and by
taper from
bow should be
the
of
stern about 4 feet from the framework.
illustration
built up,
inside
from the central station framework, the
7 feet
of
the sides converging toward the
The
shows the stern end

this
you
will see
of the hull partly
how
the sides should
thick base to a thinner wall at the top.
The inside of the walls should be straight, so as not

to make the inside space too small, but you will find
easier to build the wall roughly and then
it much
finish
off
it
with a shovel afterward.
Set a barrel in the
bow
for
Torpedo Tube (Fig. 363), and
when
the sides have
reached a height of 30 inches, set the ends of a 4-foot
board
H,
at
in
them
Fig. 363)
the
2 feet
forward of the central station (see
upon which
same height
set
to build
two or three boards into the
walls inside of the framework, at
conning-tower platform.
the forward turret;
(Fig.
363), for the
Build up the sides of the hull
to a height of 3 feet 6 inches,
and inclose the framework
of the central station with a 5-inch wall of
snow, leav-
ing a passage fore and aft below cross-pieces

(Fig. 363)
wide enough to crawl through.
wall above the hull a
Cover the top
trifle.
of the central station
E and F
Offset the
282
A SNOW BATTLESHIP
The Superstructure Deck
283
with enough snow
to hide
Build the wall of
the boards.
The Conning-tower 12 inches above the superstructure

deck (Fig. 363), and that of
The Forward Turret 12 inches above the sides of the
hull; build
The Midship Turret on to the side
of the ship.
The
shap-
ing of the conning-tower and turrets can be done with a
To
shovel or a shingle.
lessen the
hull, bank
snow around the base (Fig. 363).
The Mast should be about 1 1 feet
long and can be made by splicing
apparent height of the
together
couple
or
curtain-
of
clothes-poles.
For the Fighting-tops
(Fig.
366)
take two barrel-hoops, fasten a piece

2-by-4
of
in
each
(Fig.
and
364),
bore a hole in the center large enough

for the
mast
to slip through.
Tack
a 4-inch rim of cardboard around the
hoops and cover the bottoms with
same material
Wire pieces
366).
the
(Figs.
of
and
365
broom-handle
to the cross-pieces for
Rapid-fire
Guns (Fig.
365).
The
fighting-tops should be supported
blocks of
wood
Fig. 364.
Figs. 364, 365, and 366.
Construction of the
upon
tied or nailed to the
Fighting-tops.
trestletrees
two
mast (Fig. 366).
284
Fasten the upper top 3 feet below the masthead, and the
lower one 2 feet 6 inches below that.
The Crosstree should be

its
2 feet
long
tie it
securely at
center to the mast at /(Fig. 363).
Make
Coach-whip Pennant out of wrapping-paper
or cloth to fly from
the masthead, and to one of the
maslstays, which should be fastened to the
masthead and
to the
ends of the crosstree,
fasten three or four
Paper Signal Flags (Fig. 363). Pictures

of these flags, in color, may be found in an
encyclopedia.
After rigging up the mast, run
it
18
inches into the wall of the conning-tower
and
tie
the ends of the maststays to stakes
driven into the snow.
Make
a Union Jack for the
bow
of the
ship and
National Ensign for the stern, and tack
them upon
sticks for staffs.
Fig. 367.
Framework of
the Funnels.
make them
The Construction
in Fig. 367.
of the
is
shown
Unfasten four barrel-hoops and
12 inches in diameter,
3 feet 6 inches long.
Funnels
and cut twelve
sticks
Nail the sticks to the inside face of
the hoops (Fig. 367), then cover the
framework with
upon the
deck as shown in Fig. 363, and pack enough snow around
For
their bases to hold them in position.
heavy wrapping-paper.
Place
these funnels
w-
../.
Fig. 231.
A EouND
Fig. 338.
J^CK-IN-THE-BOX.
Center-Table.
229. The Skeleton of

THE JaCK-IN-THE-BoX.
Fig.
Fig.
233. A Square-Seated Chair.
A SNOW BATTLESHIP
285
Ventilators procure a couple of stovepipe elbows.
Stovepipe or pieces of fence-posts
may be
used for your
Main-battery Guns, two of which should be placed in
each
of
Cut three 8-inch portholes
turret.
the sides
and make four depressions
hull for peepholes,
the
in
or recesses, as shown, for the
Secondary-battery Guns, which
may
be pieces of broom-
handle.
Figure 363 shows the interior of your ship while

action.
This illustration will suggest
The Arrangement
of
keep the main supply

in the central station
to
fill
in
Amunition Stores, the idea being to

of snowballs in baskets
the
magazine
and boxes
and from
these
the pockets and baskets in the turrets and on
the deck.
The Captain
hand, will
of the Ship,
command from
whom
and must appoint the other

on the forward deck,
station,
and
aft.
He
you must choose before-
the conning-tower (Fig. 363),
men
in the
to their respective places
forward
also selects the
turret, the central
boy torpedo
boats.
For a Naval Battle there should be at least two ships

built with broadsides opposite (Fig.
363).
you can have a land and naval battle

prefer to build a fort, but there will be
battleships.
Rules
if
Of course
the
enemy
more fun with
Certain
must be observed
in a
snow
fight, just
as
in
any other boys' game, and the rules for a naval battle
will differ
somewhat from those
of a snow-fort battle.
"
286
The main
damage
game
object of this
is
to inflict as
much
upon the enemy's ship (nothing but

snowballs being allowed), and to capture and sink the
" torpedo boats."
A battleship is sunk if its mast is
knocked
when
A
side,
as possible
to the ground.
it is
If
neither ship
badly disabled
necessary to discontinue action for any reason,
White Flag
of
and during
this period of truce
work and
is
Truce should be displayed by each
you can
all
set to
repair the ships.
The "Torpedo Boats" furnish the only means
of attack
Each side should have two of these

boys who must each wear a small flag stuck in
his cap, as shown in Fig. 360.
The " torpedo boats
must not fire upon one another, but if the flag is knocked
from the hat of one boy and a " torpedo boat " of the
enemy reaches him before he can replace his flag, he is
at close range.
two
considered captured, sunk, and out of the

side captures an enemy's
change may be
"
game
until his
torpedo boat," when an ex-
effected.
The paper-covered funnels, the fighting-tops,

and the signal flags will be damaged the most and will
have a fine battered appearance. These may easily be
Repairs.
removed, -carried indoors, and repaired in a few minutes.

In this kind of
snow
fight
Good Marksmanship counts for more than strength, and

the small boy with an accurate aim
as his big brother.
is
as valuable a
man
m^H
CHAPTER
XVIII
A COASTER AND A
BOB-SLED
HOME-MADE
slcd that
is
properly put together gen-
erally outlasts the store sled, not

stantially built,
because
is
more sub-
perhaps, but because the boy
spent the necessary time to construct
and takes a pride
in
keeping
The Coaster shown

in cutting
it
in Fig.
it
in
368
it
realizes
who
its
has
worth
good condition.
is
simple to make, but
out the various pieces and putting them together
Fig. 368.
A Home-made Coaster.
you must do the work carefully in order
to get the best
results.
Lay out the Runners by the pattern shown in Fig. 369.

This has been marked off into squares, at the ends, to
aid you in laying out the curves.
Measure off the total
length of the runner upon a
287
i-inch or
ij-inch board,
288
then lay out the squares as shown, spacing the lines
inch apart, and locate the points where the curves intersect the lines
on the pattern; then
it
will
be a simple
matter
nect
Pattern for Runners.
curved
(Lay out the squares as shown i " x i" as a guide

drawing the curved ends.)
C=^
^"7
tB-
/.SEAT
Ha-
points
line.
for
After one runner
'
has been laid out
and cut from the

board
it
can be
used for a pat-
E^-J-
Fig. 370,
the
by a continuous
4--0-:
Fig. 369.
con-
to
Plan of Runners and Cross-pieces.
tern for
marking
out the other

you can get only pine or other soft wood
out of which to cut the runners, you can reenforce
them after cutting them out by driving i6-penny nails,
runner.
If
or short pieces of iron rod, into holes bored vertically
8 or 10 inches apart.
Oiled wooden runners will slide over an icy surface, but

Shoes either of hoop-iron or half-oval iron are to be
preferred
if
you can get them.
go to for these.
Take the
have him bend the irons to fit and
so you can screw them in place.
bottom should be countersunk so
to
set flush with the iron (Fig. 376).
runner
will
be plenty.
blacksmith
is
the
man
runners to him and
make
The
the screw holes

holes along the
the screw-heads will
Five screws for each
A COASTER AND A BOB-SLED
289
Cut the three

Connecting Cross-pieces {A, Figs. 370 and 371) 12 inches
long, 2 inches wide,
and ij inches thick and prepare
the ends of each as
shown
at
(Fig.
372)
the six braces
then cut
(Figs.
370 and 371) as shown
^.^>^>::^
in
Fig.
372, to
fit
the
mortises in the ends of
A.
Fig. 371.
Fig. 372.
Con-
and Braces
like This.
This.
one
1 1
to
the Cross-pieces
nect the Runners
the runners.
to
Cut
like
Screw the braces

the cross-pieces and
the
2)7^)^
runners
then
(Fig.
screw
the
cross-pieces between
They should be f
inch below the top
inches from the front end, another 7 inches from
the rear end, and the third halfway between the two.
Make
the Seat in two pieces (a wide board would be
likely to split)
There
are a
and screw the boards
number
of
to the cross-pieces.
forms of
Sled Handles, any one of which
you may
use.
One
of
the simplest kind of handles consists of slots cut through
369 and 371. The slots

should be cut as described on page 142 (see Fig. 156).
To make the handle shown in Fig. 368, cut two pieces
the runners as
of
2
shown
in Figs.
broom-handle 28 inches long and four wooden blocks

inches square
nail
two
of the blocks to
each runner,
then bore f-inch holes through the broom-handle pieces
and through the blocks and runners, and bolt the handles
290

Drawer-
in place with f-inch carriage-bolts 4 inches long.

pulls,
such as are used upon the
fronts
kitchen pantry drawers,
of
are another form of handles which
may
be used.
Bore a i-inch hole through the
bow ends
of the
piece
of
broom-handle
them
for
runners and cut a
The Foot-bar.
If
to
fit
you drive a
through each end
of
bow end
nail
broom-
the
handle, close to the runners,
prevent the
in
it
will
of the runners
from spreading.
Paint your coaster with at least
two coats
You may
of paint.
yourself about the colors, but a
suit
good
combination would be to paint the

runners yellow or green and
and handles red
seat
want to
put
it
letter a
of
about
"Every
you
seat,
you boys can own

is
nothing
constructing
and the material required

FiG. 373.
if
paint.
Bob-sled, for there
difficult
then
name upon the
on with black
Every one
the
is
one,
inex-
boy
can own a bob-sled."
bob COnsistS
of
tWO slcds
built
291
along the lines of a coaster, placed tandem, and connected with a plank long enough to hold three or more
boys (Figs. 373 and 374).

The sleds must be built
first,
and as they are identical
in construction
The Four Runners may be cut out by the same pattern

(Fig. 375).
The
pattern shows the curved ends
Fig. 374.
marked
A Home-made Bob-sled.
off into squares, just as the pattern for the
runners of the
was shown, and one runner should be laid out

first, just as described for the other sled, and the others
marked out from this. Make them out of oak or other
coaster
strong wood,
if
possible, as the
bob-sled's
subjected to a great deal of strain.

soft
wood, do not
to reenforce
fail
If
them
runners are
you must use

as suggested
for the runners of the coaster.
For connecting the Runners and bracing them, cut six

cleats
ij-
inches thick,
inches wide, and 10 inches long
{A, Figs. 376 and 27^)^ 3,nd buy twelve 2-by-2-inch iron
angle-braces, such as are
ware
store.
shown
in
Fig. 377, at a hard-
Nail the runners to the ends of the cleats,
using three cleats for each sled and spacing them as
shown
in
Fig. 378,
and then screw the angle-braces
the runners and to the cleats (Figs. 376 and 378).
to
Cut
292
The Sled Seats 22 inches long out

and screw them to the
The Seat
of lo-inch
cleats.
of the Bob-sled
shown
in the illustration is a
2-by-io-inch plank 7 feet 6 inches long and

the
bow
sled
and hinged
is
bolted to
Cut the two
to the stern sled.
^wm^S
^^m^^si^m^^^^^M^^m^m^^^sm^m^m
'
tai
boards
lâ
WASHER
W\Si
V'>vvvvvvv^'>v'
Fig. 378.
I'BOLT-^
X\
B Fig
sL J
Fig. 380.
379.
"
.
"^
b>DRAWTM
UNU
^
WHICH POflH
..
_^
Fig. 376.
Fig. 375.
Fig. 375
Fig. 376
Pattern for Runners.
Fig. 377
Fig. 378
Iron Braces for bracing the Runners.
Longitudinal Section of Completed Bob-sled.
Fig. 379
Fig. 380
Blocks for connecting Seat to Front Sled.

Use a f " X 7" Carriage-bolt for a King-bolt.
Fig. 381
Block
blocks
Cross-section of Sled showing
and
for
how Runners
are Braced.
connecting Seat to Rear Sled.
(Fig.
379)
if inches wide, if inches
and 10 inches long, and bore af-inch hole through

the center of one side of each, then nail block B to the
thick,
board seat
of the sled
and block
C to
the under side of
the plank, and bore the f-inch holes through both the
board seat and the plank.
Buy
a |-inch carriage-bolt 7
inches long (Fig. 380) and drop it into the holes in the
293
plank, block, and sled seat, putting a washer between
and
the bolt-head
seat,
another between blocks
and
and a washer and nut upon the lower end.

The Seat
is
will rise
and
pendent
of
hinged at the Stern End so the stern sled

fall
the
and 381) out
of
as
it
runs over uneven ground, inde-
bow sled.
hard wood 2
(Figs. ,378
inches thick, 4 inches wide,
and 10 inches long, and plane
Get a pair
Cut block
off the top
edge as shown.
of 4-by-4-inch wrought-steel butts at a hard-
ware store for the hinges, and screw them to this block
and
to the
plank seat with screws if inches long; then

Connect the bow ends
spike the stern sled to the block.

of the
runners of the stern sled with the bottom of the
plank seat with

Check-chains,
or ropes, fastened to screw-eyes (Fig.
378).
E (Fig.
Cut the Steering Foot-bar

nail
it
to the runners of the
The Steering Lines
to its
bow
'i^']Z)
sled,
and attach
ends (Fig. 374).
For Handle-bars cut the cross-bars

inches long and screw
plank
as
seat,
shown
them
and bolt pieces
20 inches long,
of
to the
(Fig.
'x^']K)
under side
broom-handle
20
of the
to their ends,
in Fig. 374.
The Seat should have a Cushion, and an old carriage,

wagon, or boat cushion
may
be remodeled for
it,
or the
may be padded with excelsior or straw

and then covered with a piece of oilcloth or carpet (Fig.
top of the plank
378).
The padding should be spread
out evenly and be
294
secured to the plank by stretching a piece of cloth over

it
and tacking
fore putting
to the edges of the plank with cord be-
it
on the top covering
holstering on page
(see directions for up-
ii6); then the covering should be
pulled tight over the padding and tacked to the under
Tufting the cushion every 4 or 5

inches, by driving nails through the covering and pad-
side of the plank.
ding into the plank,
will
prevent the padding from
ing and becoming lumpy (Fig. 374).

Two Coats of Paint applied to all the
give the sled
covered
will
hill
its
shift-
woodwork
will
finishing touches, then, with a snow-
or slippery toboggan-sHde to coast upon, you
be ready to give
new home-made
bob.
all
of
your friends a ride upon your
PARTn
Spring and Simmicr
Handicraft
Aero Club of the Chicago Calumet High School.
A Model Aeroplane Meet
of the Calumet Aero Club.
'
^^^^^^î^s
I
CHAPTER XIX
MODEL AEROPLANES
:5E3ZSE2ZZ5I
Boys cannot study well while some one or something

from without is attracting their attention, and it is this very
condition of things which makes indoor work difficult
have arrived.
after the first signs of spring
As soon
as
the Weather Man throws over the switch marked " balmy
weather," Mother Nature takes heed and sends forth her
messengers in their
"
little
airyplanes
"
to
arouse a
greater activity in every living creature, and to
awaken
each growing thing from
We
the
receive
call
the
in
winter sleep.
its
" airy grams,"
all
which reach us
through the gentle breezes, and through the fragrance
from the
each
fields
little
and
forests
which
fill
our nostrils
ing or scolding bird, seems either to invite us to
out into the open and work, or to

so.
Then
jumping
old "
and
mock
come
us for not doing
there are the brooks and the streams, whose
fish
remind us that the
swimmin'
" hole,
that,
with
all
" fishin' " is fine,
and the
the sight of which tempts us to
take an afternoon off and go
wonder
squealing or chattering animal, and each chirp-
"
these invitations
297
So it is no
thrust upon us at
swimmin'."
298
one time, we become

it
difficult to
and that you boys

keep your minds upon your studies, for
to these calls of
restless,
Nature that
within us
all
is
find
it is
responding.
But the days are getting longer now, and soon there
will
be
lots of
time before and after school to devote to
outdoor work and play, and, with

dition
and the spring vacation
have very
little
all
day Saturday
in sight,
in ad-
you fellows
will
reason to complain.
Since the making and flying of model aeroplanes has
developed into one of the greatest of pastimes for boys,

has been added to the
list
it
of boys' sports, and, although a
model aeroplane requires calm weather rather than the

breeze necessary for kite flying, aeroplane flying seems
to belong to the spring of the year, for
first
opportunity to try
it
furnishes the
out the models which have
been devised and constructed during the winter months

so the
warm weather of each year is probably

known hereafter as aeroplane time, as
first spell of
destined to
be
well as kite, marble, and top time.
model aeroplane contest
is
as
much more
ing than a kite contest as an automobile race

horse race, and what makes
flying
is
it
more
probably the fact that
it
fascinat-
is
than a
interesting than kite
requires
more
skill to
and evenly balanced model, and that a

successful flight depends upon the model itself, rather
than the guiding hand of its flyer, as in kite flying.
The Lengths of Flights have been limited on account of
build
light
the lack of a long-running light-weight motor, but the dis-
MODEL AEROPLANES
299
tances covered have gradually been increased from
60 odd
feet,
one
made
of the first records
some
several years
Courtesy of " The Chicago Daily News."
Junior Aeronautics.
Ideas which are more Ingenious than Praiseworthy.
(See details in Chapter
ago, to a distance
This shows how

ter
XX for
a safe a.nd practical
"
boy-carrying
"
machine.)
over
350 feet, recently obtained.

boys have succeeded in developing betof
and better models, through the discovery
of
more
300
satisfactory
working
and
propellers,
material,.better forms for the planes
and improved methods
for installing the
motive power and for joining together the various parts

of the models.
Junior Aero Clubs have been organized in schools

in
branches of the
in
many
Young Men's
and
Christian Association,
parts of the country, and
very probable,
it is
if
the model aeroplane increases in popularity at the rate at
which
it
has during the past few years, that fully two
thirds of the boys of America, as well as a large propor-
tion of their English cousins,
and the boys
in all other
countries in which aeronautics are holding the public's

attention, will
soon become enthusiastic builders
of
model
aeroplanes.
The Chicago Calumet High School boys

an aero club
under the
in the winter of 1910, and,
age of Mr. Arthur Booth, their instructor
and
organized
in
many
tutor-
mechanical
drawing,
have
models.
The photographs opposite page 297 show

the club members with their home-made
some
of
designed
built
successful
models, also the start of one of their aeroplane races,
show
while two of the photographs opposite page 302
other views of several of their models.
Model Aeroplane Meets.

rules for
rially.
corder,
its
Each aero club has
contests, but they
do not
its
differ very
own
mate-
a starter, a reThere are usually three judges

and a head official
to govern the race, and it is
generally stipulated in the rules that
all
models
shall
be
MODEL AEROPLANES
301
some races
in
it is required that the models start from the ground
others they must be released from the hand without
giving them any forward motion in a third form of race
they must be launched from a table top, chair, or bench
and for a fourth way they are launched from the hand
the product of the boys entering them.
In
and may be given as much
push as the contestants
of a
Sometimes a dozen models
wish.
number
time, but usually the
is
are started off at one
limited to five or
six, to
avoid collisions.
The
lengths of the flights are figured from the starting
line to the points at
The winner
which they
of a race is usually
first
touch the ground.
awarded 10
points, the
holder of second place 5 points, and the holder of third

place 3 points.
In the races in which the machines
start
from the ground, the model which
least
number
of feet
rises within the
from the starting
points,
and the one which
which
results in
line
heavy handicaps for models capable
covering long distances, but slow in taking to the
Three cups, each having a valuation

awarded
last
10
scores
rises next best scores 5 points,
year by business
men
of
of
of
air.
$100, were
New York
City
for the
winners of the contests held under the auspices
of the
Young Men's
of these
Christian Association.
was deeded with the condition that
The
first
be
won
it
three times in succession by a contestant before becom-
ing his property, the second was for the longest flight
of the year,
and the third
for the best-designed
model
302
among
the winners of
all
have stimulated a desire in

their very best efforts,
These prizes
the contests.
New York
boys to put forth
and have resulted
in
some
surpris-
ing records and an astonishing array of styles of models,
from careful reproductions
of the large successful flyers
forms which only boys' ingenuity could
to a variety of
produce.
The Three Types
of
Machines used in designing models
are the glider, or motorless model

is
the monoplane, which
constructed more or less along the lines of a bird
the biplane, or double-decked aeroplane.
Gliders
and
may
be of either the monoplane or biplane type.
The
it is
glider
is
the best form for a boy to
the simplest and will enable
him
points to be observed in building
make
first,
to learn the
a successful
as
main
flyer;
good glider,
farther and add a motor, and then he
then, after he has succeeded in producing a
he can go a
will
little
be prepared to undertake the construction of some
of the
more elaborate monoplanes.
cessful biplane
number
models have been made, but so
of suc-
far
none
has been produced which can equal the records of the
monoplane model.
machine, the greatest
They
are
usually not as stable a
difficulty
being that a very slight
disturbance in the air will upset them and cause them

to crash to
the earth, usually resulting disastrously,
if
not in total destruction.
The Support
of
an Aeroplane.
There are several funda-
mental principles which must be taken into consideration
MODEL AEROPLANES
in
designing an aeroplane, in order to
ride the air successfully.
303
make
so
it
will
It
necessary to so plan the
It is
wings, ox planes^ that the center of the upward pressure
exerted upon them by the supporting air beneath will
come
of balance. The instant the center

pressure shifts to one side, the planes tilt, with
at the center
of this
the result that the
To
upsets.
or cardboard
machine
loses
illustrate this action,
and drop
that as long as
it
it
its
take a piece of paper
You
from your hand.
remains
and
equilibrium
floats,
flat it
will find
but the instant
the center of the air pressure beneath shifts to one side,

the opposite edge drops, and the piece overbalances and
Cardboard
falls.
is
stiffer
and
will
keep
Its
balance
longer than the piece of paper, as the air pressure
under
its
center of balance for a longer time.
If
is
held
you
let
a piece of cardboard glide out of your hand, you will
discover another factor which must be counted on; you

will find that the
result,
forward end
is
forced upward, and, as a
the card instantly slips backward, then upsets and
drops to the ground.
This
caused by a change in
is
the center of the air pressure, immediately the card starts

to
move
forward, from the center of balance to a point
between that and the forward end.

upset
is
This tendency to
neutralized by counterbalancing, or by adding
stability planes in
such positions as
will help to retain the
original center of balance.
Cardboard Bird Glider
of the
body
of a bird, as
may be
shown
fashioned on the lines
in Fig. 382.
Mark
out a
304
compass or the rim
circular piece of cardboard, using a

of a small plate for the
purpose; cut a couple of wedge-
shaped pieces
out
of equal size
edge, leaving
of the
the piece between

tail
for
and turn over about
J inch
of the
opposite the
edge directly
tail,
as shown,
and stick a piece cut
in
the shape of a head and
neck
in a slit
the
folded
made through
front
The head should
edge.
have
some sealing-wax dropped

^^^^ j^ ^^ ^j^^ -^ weight;
this can then be used as a counterbalance, and be extended or pushed back into the body as much as is
necessary to equalize the upward pressure upon the
forward end.
The bird should glide to the ground in a
long, graceful curve; if it dives head first, you may know
that the weight is too heavy, and that the head must be
Fig. 382.
-a Cardboard Bird Glider.
pushed closer
collapses,
the
to the body;
while
if
it
rises
head must be extended a
and then
little
farther
front.
Simple Monoplane Model
makes
is
shown
in Fig. 383.
This
Figure 384
a splendid form of glider as well.
shows the model without the planes, and Fig. 385 shows
the details for the propeller.
MODEL AEROPLANES
Use
305
a |--inch or f-inch pine flagstaff for
The Center-pole, and get one which is split down the

center, if possible, so the slot in which to slip the card-
Fjg. 383.
A Simple Monoplane Model.
board wings will already be prepared.

find
an old
flag has
staff nailed
you cannot
If
up somewhere, from which the
been washed by the
rain,
you may use a cabinet-
^
,WiRE Shaft
HUB
-0-:
11
t_^--l
BRASS
BEARING
Fig. 384.
Fig. 384.
Fig. 385.
Center-pole of Monoplane with Motor in Place.

Details of Propeller, Shaft and Bearing.
maker's dowel stick and rip one end for
a*
distance of 5
inches and the other for a distance of 6 inches.

this center-pole
about 18 inches long.
Cut
3o6
Before attaching the propeller,
Two
Cut the
Planes out of cardboard of a light weight,
enough to support itself. The sizes of these

planes must be determined by experimenting, as they will
depend upon the weight of the material, but will be
approximately 5 inches by 12 inches and 4 inches by
yet
stiff
The
6 inches.
large plane should be fastened about
inch from one end of the pole, and the rear plane should
be placed about the same distance from the opposite end.
You have now completed

tried out before the
plane fore and

ful
sweeps
you intend
in place
it
aft until
building,
if
is
this should
be
Adjust the rear
attached.
the model will glide in long, grace-
but do not fasten
it
permanently
in place
to install a motor, for after this has
if
been put
be necessary to readjust this plane.
will
may
Glider Race
roof, or,
motor
and
a glider,
you
live
in
be started from a shed or barn
an upper story
of
an apartment
you may use the rear porch from which
to
start the models.
The details for

An Easily Made
Propeller are
shown
in Fig. 385.
The
blades are cut out of tin from a tomato can, which you
will find of just the right curve.
edge
of the cut
end
of a can,
Remove
the ragged
by holding the can over a
flame until the solder melts and the end drops
off;
mark out one, blade to the dimensions given, cut it

and mark out the second blade with it as a pattern.
Cut a block
-|
inch by f inch by
J inches
then
out,
in size out
MODEL AEROPLANES
of
hard wood for a hub
drill
307
a small hole through the
center for a shaft, and slot each end diagonally for a dis-
tance of
^ inch with
a saw,
as
shown
the detail.
in
Notch each edge of the blades near the narrow end, as

shown in the pattern; then slip the blades into the slots
in the hubs, bend the ends over against the hub, and
drive a tack through the wood and the tin to help hold
them in position.
Cut a short piece of wire for
The Shaft, and after slipping it through the hub bend
the end over and stick
it
into another small hole
made
in
the hub.
The Shaft Bearing should be made out

brass
little
of a piece of
f inch by ij inches in size. Drill a hole of a

larger diameter than the shaft, near one end, and,
^ inch away from

into the split end
this end,
bend
it
as
of the center-pole,
shown
and bind
then set
it
by winding the end with strong linen thread.

thread with glue, or with shellac, to hold
it
it
in place
Coat the
in place.
Strands of rubber are used for
The Motive Power

sively, as this is the
of
model aeroplanes almost exclu-
most
efficient light-weight material
which has as yet been found
for the purpose.
For the
simpler models, No. 32 rubber bands are often looped
together chain fashion, and several strands of these used
but for the larger machines strands of rubber about
thick
3-V
Rubber strands j^ inch

can be purchased wherever model aeroplanes are
inch thick are generally used.
3o8
sold,
and
will cost
you
will
find
specialty
addresses
the
who make
dealers,
of
furnishing model aeroplane parts,
of
magazines.
about $i- ior a piece loo feet long;
Some
High School have

and have found
The number
of the
in
the
boys of the Chicago Calumet
tried the
rubber from old golf
balls,
this very satisfactory.
of strands necessary for a
motor
will de-
pend, of course, upon the age of the rubber, and
its
you use No. 32 rubber bands, which are -|

inch wide and 3 inches long, from four to six strands will
diameter.
If
usually be sufficient, while
if
you use
inch rubber,
there should be from ten to eighteen strands.

Slip a glass bead on to the propeller shaft for a thrust-
bearing, then slip the shaft through the hole in the hub,
bend the end into a hook, and
The
slip
the rubber over
it.
other ends of the strands should be looped over a
screw-hook, and the hook should be screwed into the
away from the propeller

shaft.
The strands should be just loose enough to
remain taut when unwound.
center-pole about
The
12
inches
propeller of model aeroplanes
is
usually placed
at the forward
end, rather than in the rear as
large machines,
and the model
the air instead of propelled.
model
flies
steadier
When winding up
by
this
It
is
really
on the
drawn through
has been found that the
arrangement.
the Motor for a Flight, the propeller
should be given from 100 to 175 turns, according to the

strength of the rubber and number of strands used.
MODEL AEROPLANES
309
Figure 386 shows a monoplane patterned after
French ModeL
This, Hke the model just described,
Fig. 386.
may
A French Monoplane Model.
be equipped with a motor or
may be used
without
as a glider.
made out of a piece of bamboo,

for which the end of a bamboo fishing-rod may be used
Prepare blocks A and B as shown in Figs.
(Fig. 387).
and
388, making A \ inch thick, \ inch wide.
387
The Center-pole
is
Fig. 388.
Fig. 389.
Center-pole and Motor of Monoplane Model shown in Fig.

Fig. 388. Details of Propeller and Motor Connections.
Fig. 389. Details of Running-gear.
Fig. 387.
386.
3IO
and
i|-
B of
inches long, and
the
The
ness by \\ inches long.
same width and
thick-
necessary holes should
be bored through these blocks before they are trimmed
up
to the proper size, to avoid splitting them.
Locate
the holes of the proper diameters for the center-pole,

propeller shaft, and a
Fasten the blocks
screw-hook.
to the center-pole with glue and brads, placing
one end and
23 inches away from
fancy-work rings to the center-pole at C, D, and

(Fig.
387).
Bind ring
inches
from
\\\ inches from
and
C,
at
block A,
end
the
at
Bind three
it.
of
the
pole.
The Propeller
for the other
The
is
made
similar to the one described
monoplane, but
pattern for the blades
of different proportions.
is
is
shown
in
Fig. 388,
and
the hub, also shown in the detail, should be f inch

by f inch by if inches in size. For the propeller
shaft, procure the ring from the top of a worn-out
alarm-clock; also a machine-screw of the proper thread

to
screw into
of
hard wood, as shown.
it
(Fig.
Z^"^)'^
The
^^^ ^^^ ^ small washer

illustrations
show
clearly
how^ the machine-screw should run through the propeller hub,
then through the wooden washer, through the
lower hole in block A, and then be screwed into the
Figure 387 shows the number of strands of

rubber necessary for an efficient motor; also how they
clock ring.
are connected to the clock ring

in
block B.
and
to the screw-hook
MODEL AEROPLANES
Running-gear
plane like
this,
is
but
31
not necessary for a simple mono-
it is
made and
easily
attached, and
is
a big protection to the propeller blades, which are likely

to
be bent out of shape
by coming
if
broken
of metal, or
in contact with the
if
of
wood,
ground.
Figure 389 shows a simple way to construct the frame

out of wire and bamboo, and how the ends of the bam-
boo axle run through the wheels.
Button molds can
be purchased at any dry-goods store for about

dozen, and these
make
cents a
excellent wheels; they turn
upon
the axle and are held in place by driving short pins
through the bamboo ends.

block
with
small
tacks
Fasten the wire frame to

or
thread,
or with
both
(Fig. 387)-
Some boys provide
their
models with bamboo
Skids constructed similar to the runners which were
upon the large machines, but wheels

look neater upon the model machines, and produce less
originally used
friction.
The Planes for
Only two
this
model do not require a framework.
sticks are necessary for each,
through the hems sewed on the edges

(Fig. 390).
planes,
and,
and these
of the
slip
covering
Silk should be used for the covering of the

if
your
mother hasn't any scraps large
enough in her scrap-bag, you can buy enough for the

two planes for 25 cents. If your mother or sister will
do the necessary sewing on the sewing-machine, the rest
of the
work can be
finished
up very quickly; however,
312
any boy who
handy can manage a needle and

when he has to, and does not find it
Make a hem along each of the long edges
is
at all
thread well enough

hard, either.
to run the sticks
THIS END LOOPS OVER

JOPOF END- BLOCK 'A"
(SEB F>0.3B7)
and a
into,
nar-
row one along
narrow
each
edge to keep the

silk
from
The
ing.
tern
ravel-
pat-
(Fig. 390)
shows the proper

dimensions
for
The
the planes.
may be
sticks
out of
whittled
pine,
boo
but
is
bam-
lighter
and stronger.
After the
Pattern for Planes and Connections

Monoplane Model shown in Fig. 386.
FiG. 390.
slipped
silk
has been pre-
into
the
hems made
for
for
and
the
sticks have
been
pared
them, sew a dozen
small brass rings to the edges, in the positions indicated
upon the
rings the
pattern, being careful to place each
same distance away from the
two center rings on the front edge
center.
pair of
To
the
of the front plane fas-
MODEL AEROPLANES
ten the ends of a piece of wire bent as
with a loop in the end to

the
fit
shown
in Fig. 390,
over the top of block
Attach a cord
center-pole.
313
the
to
rings
ends of the front plane, for warping the plane
of
the
at
connect
the two planes about \o\ inches apart with cords tied to
shown
the end rings as
each
to
the planes to rings
C,
the
loop over the
wire
a short piece of cord
tie
D, and
attaching the planes
In
and
remaining rings by which to fasten
the
of
then pull the cords
on the center-pole.
the center-pole,
to
top of block
on the rear edge
(Fig.
them
to ring
rings
and
E\
tie
387),
of the rear plane
sticks in the front plane are bowed,
until the
slip
first
and
tie
the cords on the center rings to
keep the planes centered upon the
to
center-pole.
After you have completed this model, go over
examine each part see that the

;
is
stretched taut
silk
and
covering of the planes
sight along the model, lengthwise, to
see that the planes are in line with each other
warping
it
of the front plane to
make
certain that
test the
it is
the
same on each end; and, if necessary, readjust the bracing

cords to correct any of these faults.
If the model dives when you try it, loosen the bracing
cords and move the rear plane a little forward if it rises
and then slips backwards to the ground, move the plane
;
back
until
a perfect balance
is
obtained.
planes have been properly adjusted,

so they will not
slip.
Some boys
tie
When
the
the cords securely
coat the knots with glue
3^4
make them doubly secure, but two half-hitches will

make a perfect fastening.
The upper center photograph in the group opposite
to
page 302 shows
Fig. 391.
motor wound
model monoplane held
this
with the
Antoinette Monoplane Model.
up, ready to be released for a flight.
model
carefully made, this
200
aloft
will fly distances of
When
100 to
feet.
The Antoinette Model shown

plane and one that
The Center-pole
piece of a
bamboo
is
is
easily
shown
in Fig. 391
is
a neat mono-
made.
in Fig. 392,
fishing-rod or
and consists
bamboo umbrella
of a
handle,
Prepare the
24 inches long and f or ^ inch in diameter.
similar
in
Fig. 388,
to
blocks
and
and
blocks
Run
and fasten
2\\ inches away from block A.

wire through the center-pole at C,
in place
a piece of
stiff
which should be 2\ inches from A, and anojther at D^

which should be 6 inches away from C\ also ran a piece
of wire, cut ^\ inches long and having its lower end bent
into the
form
of a hook,
through a vertical hole bored
through the center-pole \ inch back
of block
B.
Drive
MODEL AEROPLANES
315
a screw into the top of the pole at F, which should be 7
away from block B, and fasten a brass ring to the

rear end of the pole, as shown at G.
Use the details given in Fig. 388 in preparing
The Propeller for this model, and connect up the rubber
inches
motor
as described for the other model.
Figures 393 to 396 show the patterns for the wings,
and rudder.
tail, fin,
Fig. 392.
Fig. 393.
RUDDER
Fig. 396.
Center-pole of Antoinette Monoplane Model.

Pattern for Wings.
Fin.
FiG. 395. Pattern
Fig. 394. Pattern for Tail.
FiG. 396. Pattern for Rudder.
Fig. 392.
Fig. 393.
for
The Wings require frames made
bamboo
of
wire, or of four
bound together at the corners with linen

thread, as indicated by the dotted lines in Fig. 393, and
they are covered with silk.
The projecting ends on the
sticks
side pieces are provided for connection to the ends of
3i6
C and
wires
bind them in
on the center-pole (Figs. 392 and 391);

place with linen thread (Fig. 391).
Connect
and make
enough to warp the wings 2\ inches (measurecenter, and from string to center-pole).
the ends of the wings with a thread or cord,

this short
ment
at
The Tail has one
stick,
which
slips into a
hem
short edge of the cloth, and cords run through

the other two edges.
in
the
hems on
Fasten one end of each cord to
the stick and the other end to a small brass ring.
This
plane should be warped f inch, by attaching a warping

cord to the ends of the stick, as shown in Fig. 391.
The Fin
is
prepared similar to the
stead of having a stick run through
plane, but, in-
tail
it,
short edge slips over the upper end of wire
The
rings on the fin and
The Rudder has a piece

give
it
hooks and fastened

391 and 392).
of wire
to the
run through
its
of this wire are
lower part of wire
Attach a thread to the rear
and fasten the ends
E (Fig.
392).
over the nail at /^
tail slip
and the ends
stiffness,
seam on the
the
of this to the
edge to
bent into
of the
ends of the
(Figs.
rudder
tail
plane,
setting the rudder in line with the center-pole, or at an

angle, according to whether
fly straight
you wish
to
have the model
or in a curve.
The Running-gear
is
to be constructed the
same
as for
the other model.
A
397.
is shown in Fig.
monoplane models
More Elaborate Monoplane Model

This
is
one
of
the forms of
used by the boys of the Chicago Calumet High School
MODEL AEROPLANES
in
their
study of aeronautics.
It
is
317
more
difficult to
make than those which have been described, but any

handy boy who has
successfully
built
some
of
the simpler models
should be prepared to undertake
struction; for he will have learned that exact
ship
is
necessary in model
Fig. 397.
its
con-
workman-
making, that the weight and
A More Elaborate Monoplane Model.
strength of materials used must be carefully considered,
must be carefully tested as prepared, that

the planes must be warped or bowed to the same degree
that each part
at
both ends, and that an
of the secret of
As
so
efficient propeller is
one half
producing a record-breaking model.
many measurements
model, in order that each part
are
necessary for this
may
be properly proper-
Fig. 398.
Plan or Top View.
(Scale i"
I".)
euTTON MOULD
Fig. 399.
Front Elevation of Monoplane Model shown

(Scale i"
318
i".)
in Fig. 397.
MODEL AEROPLANES
319
tioned and properly placed, working-drawings are

to a scale of
^ inch to the inch; that
is,
shown
the plan or top
view (Fig. 398), the front elevation (Fig. 399), and the
side elevation (Fig. 400) are reproduced upon the pages
at
such a
resents
if
size that
^ inch
of the
drawing on the page rep-
inch on the model, which you will understand
you have studied the instructions
in
Chapter IV for
making working-drawings. By placing an ordinary ruler

upon the pages you will be able to tell exactly what any
measurement is.
Unless you have had some experience in reading mechanical drawings, there is one thing which may puzzle
you, and which
shall explain.
peller in Figs. 398
If
and 399, you
you look
at the pro-
will see that
shorter in the plan than In the front elevation
it is
;
shown
the plan
does not, in this case, show the correct length, but represents the top view
angle
shown
in the plan.
Fig. 400.
when
the propeller
in the front elevation.
The
propeller
is
It
is
\'$>
turned to the
foreshortened
foreshortened in the same
Side Elevation of Monoplane Model shown

(Scale I"
i".)
in Fig. 397.
320
way
it would be seen
shown in the front
at
which shows
in the side elevation (Fig. 400),
view when
in a side
As
elevation.
an angle are foreshortened
all
it
is
it
as
turned as
other portions set
in a similar
manner, in
all
views in which you do not look squarely at them, be
drawing which shows the true length,
careful to use the

in taking off the
The Center-pole
measurements.
of this
model
is
made out
of a piece of
which a fishing-rod or Japanese parasol

handle may be used, and should be about ^ inch thick
bamboo,
for
and the framework

backbone and
bamboo
of the running-gear, the braces,
ribs of
and the
each plane are made of strips of
inch thick by ^^ inch wide, and the edge

strips of the planes and rudder are made of pine about
split
^ inch
-^-q
The ribs from a Japanese parasol

the bamboo strips, and the sticks from
a contrivance made to keep the walls
in diameter.
may be used for

a sm^ splasher,
around a sink from being splashed, which can be purchased for
or 10 cents at a department store
just the thing for the
boo may
^înch
sticks
are
small strips of bam-
be used instead of the round
sticks,
if
they are
easier to obtain.
Strong linen thread
is
The Best Material
for
Wire
is
Binding the sticks
sometimes used, but thread
and
is
very
together.
much
lighter
you brush the connections

and
with a thin coat of glue after wrapping the thread around
them, they cannot possibly separate. The binding was
easier to handle,
if
MODEL AEROPLANES
321
not shown on the connections on the plan and elevations, in
order not to
make
the drawings complicated,
but you will readily see where
it is
necessary by looking
at Fig. 397.
The Running-gear consists
of
two triangular frames, on
each of which a pair of button molds are mounted for
Measure
wheels.
off the lengths of the strips,
drawings, and fasten the
Whittle
401.
down
ends of the axles to
fit
from the
strips
together as in
Fig. 401.
Running-gear
Fig.
the
the
holes in the button molds,
and drive pins through

them to hold the molds in
place.
After
completing
bind them to
the frames,
the center-pole and
brace
each upright with a diagonal brace, as
shown
in Figs.
398 and 400.

The Propeller shown in
the drawings
of
is
a true form
screw-propeller.
making
of
difficult,
and
The
one of these
it
is
requires a great deal of accuracy in both
laying out and cutting to produce one that
Many boys
pellers
Mono-
of
plane shown in Fig. 397.
is efficient.
succeed in preparing very satisfactory pro-
out of pine, spruce, or walnut, and sometimes
laminations (layers) of walnut
and white holly wood,
322
while other boys buy them already made.
If
very
effec-
lo-inch propeller can be purchased for about $1,
tive
you make your propeller, follow the dimensions shown
upon the drawings.

The Shaft Bearing
Make
this
of
brass
to
keep
its
enough
shown
is
or
of
Flatten
If
the
side
of
pole
for
fit
side
to
make
The Shaft
is
to
rest
and wire
J-
it
inch
away from the end.

brass, copper, or tin out of
the bearing, you
may
prepare a block
on the pole and tack the bearing
and ends
it
center-
Two in place about
Shaft Bearins:.
you have only very thin
which
to
Propeller Shaft and
under
the
against,
Forms of
402.
any gauge heavy
shape, and not over ^g inch thick.

Fig. 401.
Figs. 402 and 403.
Fig.
in detail in
copper,
the under
to
of this, as
shown
made out
of a piece of stiff wire (Figs.
in Fig. 403.
400 and 402). File a square taper upon the propeller

end of this, so that the propeller will not turn upon it,
and, after slipping it through the bearing, solder a glass
bead on to it i inch from the end, as shown, to relieve the
propeller of
all
motor
strain.
Drive the propeller on to
the end of the shaft, carefully, so as to avoid the danger of

splitting
shaft,
there
if
is
it.
It is
not necessary to clinch the end of this
you drive the propeller on

an advantage
in
to
not clinching
that the propeller can easily be
properly; and
it
it,
removed
in the fact
then, in case
MODEL AEROPLANES
of accident, or
pellers,
if
you have a number
forms of pro-
of
you can quickly interchange them.
the hole through

it
323
In drilling
shaft bearing, be sure
the
low enough so the hook
to
place
will clear the center-pole, in
revolving.
The hook
for the rear
end
of the rubber
motor should
be bent out of a piece of brass, and be wired to the under

side of the center-pole to a flattened surface, as
shown
in
Fig. 400.
The Rubber Motor described for the other models
will
be satisfactory for this machine (see page 307).

The Construction of the Planes is clearly shown upon
Bend
the working-drawings.
shown
Fig. 404.
the ribs to the exact curve
and be careful
in Fig. 404,
to get
them
all
alike.
Curve the Ribs of the Planes Hke This.
Bind together the ends
of the
backbone,
sticks carefully, then test each
framework
balances at the center
have cut the sticks
this
it
ribs,
and edge
to see that
it
must do, and it

you
and have connected them
Cover the
of the center.
will
if
of equal size
at equal distances
each side
planes with siik or with Japanese rice-paper, stretching

the covering as tight as possible,
silk
or gluing the paper.
first,
before putting
drumhead.
it
on,
If
it
and cross-stitching the
you dampen the paper
will dry out as tight as a
324
Bind the planes to the center-pole

398 and
The
exactly at right angles to the pole.
have
to
at
and
B (Figs.
them
400), being careful in doing so to place
rear plane will
be readjusted, after the model has been completed,
which
to a point
produce a perfect balance
will
machine, but the position shown
of the
an approximate loca-
is
and a good one for a first trial.

The Bracings, shown by the dotted
tion
tions, are fastened to the
ends of the
lines in the illustra-
Use strong
sticks.
linen thread and fasten each end with two half-hitches.
You may
the
notch the ends of the sticks on the edges, in
same way
that
you notched the frame pieces
of the
running-gear, to avoid the possibility of the thread
ping
slip-
but with well-tied half-hitches this precaution
off,
is
not necessary.
The Rudder Frame should be lashed

as
shown
Figs. 397
in
and 400.
to the center-pole,
Cover the frame with
thin paper or silk.
To make
Finish.
the framework
should be finished in some way.

carefully with sandpaper, then give
of
shellac or
such as
made
paint.
of
it
this the model's
it
it
down
a couple of coats
The aluminum
framework
is
paint
inexpensive,
will
appear to
aluminum.
Flights this Monoplane
is
capable of Making.
the boys of the Chicago Calumet
club have
First rub
sold for stoves and radiators
is
and by using
be
aluminum
more shipshape,
made models
of this type
High
Some
of
School's aero
which have covered
MODEL AEROPLANES
distances of from 200 to 325 feet.
mechanic, you
will
may
you may be able

it
you are a genius,

discover improvements w^hich will
to
flight,
a record
into
and some
show
of the models,
vided with additional
and
if
The photographs
breaker.
opposite pages 297 and 302

sizes,
you are a good
If
be able to turn out a machine which
exceed this longest
develop
325
this
you
model
will notice, are pro-
placed below and above the
fins,
center-pole, while others have a horizontal
After you have
made
in various
tail
plane.
the model for which the working-
drawings are given, work out some
of these extra parts,
using vour ingenuity, as well as the photographs,
to
determine the proper proportions for them.
Model aeroplane making,

carrying machines,
is
like
the building of
in its infancy as yet,
and
man-
for this
reason probably offers a better opportunity for the boy

inventor to
show
his skill
and originality than does any
other experimental work occupying the attention of
and boys
at the present time.
the small machines

ones.
is
keeping pace with that
Each boy owner
a determination to
The making and
of a
make
machine usually
a
name
men
flying of
of the large
sets out with
for himself,
and the
made and smashed in

would make it difficult for any
frequency with which records are

the junior aero contests
one but an enthusiast to keep track of the
Some
of
my
readers will doubtless be holders of model
aeroplane records, and
want you
to let
latest records.
when
me know.
the honor
comes
to you,
326
The boy who
devises a motor which will be
more
effi-
motor used at the present

do more to advance this new pastime than can
come from any other form of development, so here is a
cient than the rubber strand
time, will
good
field for
your experiments.
'
^^r^HHtlMli^j^
^\l
I
'
>
CHAPTER XX
A BOY'S AUTO-AIRSHIP
Probably
making a number of different forms of

you boys will become ambitious to con-
after
model aeroplanes,
struct soinething in
which you yourselves can
Al-
ride.
Ij
'!
though the airship and aeroplane have been developed

where successful flying is an accomplished
to the point
feat,
they are a long wa^^s from the stage of perfection
whereby one can

However,
to
fly, I
able
fly
without endangering
to help satisfy
am
you to
going
sail
to
you
life
restless fellows
who
show you a scheme which
through the
air.
This
will
or limb.
desire
will en-
not contain
the elements of danger or foolhardiness attendant
upon
leaping from a tree-top or shed roof with an umbrella for

a parachute, or any of the ingenious ideas
shown
Bradley's cartoon on page 299, which any lad

suffered the consequences
in
Mr.
who has
by breaking a limb or smash-
ing the dining table and other furniture in such reckless

endeavors, will
tell
airship described
will
you are not a success
and
illustrated
instead, the auto-
upon the following pages
provide a greater safety to the pilot than
the coaster
upon a toboggan-slide, or coaster

327
is
afforded
railway, to-
gether with
many
As you
of the thrills of flying.
see by looking at Figs. 405
which the airship
329
flies is
Fig. 406.
will
and 406, the rope cable along

to keep the
hung low enough
Making a Landing.
course of the young aviator always close to the surface
good old Mother Earth.

For the Framework of the Balloon (Fig. 407), procure
eight barrel hoops and three i-by-2-inch strips 12 or 14
feet long, and purchase at a hardware store two wooden
single blocks (the size for J-inch rope, with hooks and beckels, Fig. 411), 3 pounds of No. 12 steel wire, and |- pound
of
of small
From
copper staples (Fig. 408).

the i-by-2-inch strips cut
A, B,
8 inches long, and crosspieces E, F, G,
C,
and
H,
/,
D5
and
feet
of
the lengths show^n in the top view of the framework (Fig.
330
Remove
409).
the beckets from the single blocks, un-
screwing the bolts which hold them in the iron straps

(Fig. 411),
through
and bore a
strips
C and
hole, the size of those in the straps,
Then
D, \\ inches from each end.

Rib-band
VSTERN
Fig. 409.
Fig. 410.
Fig. 411.
Figs. 407 and 408.
Side and End Views of Framework of Balloon.
Top and End Views showing Framework before Ribs

and Rib-bands are attached.
Figs. 409 and 410.

Fig. 411.
bolt
Wooden Single Block.
Cand
D to the
using 4-inch
bolts.
becket straps (Figs. 409 and 410),

Nail the crosspieces to
and D,
spacing them as shown in Fig. 409 then nail strips

and
to the crosspieces, and screw their ends to the
;
wooden shells of the blocks
(Fig. 410).
Two
nails
should
be used at each point of nailing, to insure a strong framework.
The Barrel Hoop Ribs are fastened to the ends

crosspieces (Fig. 407).
Remove
of the
the nails which hold
the hoops together, and turn in the ends until the inside
331
diameters equal the length of the crosspieces, then drive

several nails through the ends
To
inner side of the hoops.
and clinch them on the
bow and
build out the
stern
framework (Fig. 407), cut the two remaining hoops
of the
in halves, cross a pair of these halves at right angles for
each end, and fasten their centers together
ends to the end ribs and drive
where the hoops cross
it is
then nail the
in a nail at the points
A, B,
strips
Clinch ah nails wherever
C,
and
(Fig. 408).
possible to do so.
Cut Twelve Rib-bands from the No. 12 wire, fasten one

across the bottoms of the ribs, another across the tops
and space the remaining ten between them
(Fig. 407),
at
The
intermediate rib-bands are
shown
but have been omitted in Fig. 407 to
make
equal distances.
in Fig. 408,
Fasten the rib-bands to the ribs
that illustration clearer.
with staples (Fig. 408).

Before
inclosing
framework, cut twelve
the
6-foot
lengths of heavy cord for

Stays,
and
(Fig. 407)
when you
cable,
tie
rib just
above the crosspiece
also run a cord through the blocks, so that
are ready to slip the balloon
you can
by means
one to each
of
it,
tie
on
to its
rope
the end of the cord to the rope and,
pull the rope
through the wheels
of the
blocks.
You will require ^\ yards of cloth for

The Balloon Envelope. A black, brown, or gray cam.
bric or muslin will
make
any cloth you can
get,
the most durable covering, but
such as old sheets, can be used.
332
Put the cloth on lengthwise

strips, stretch it as
smooth as
of the
framework
possible,
in
and fasten
two
it
to
the ribs with tacks and to the rib-bands with thread.
On
top of the envelope sew a band of white cloth around
the center of the balloon (Fig. 405).
The Construction
tion, as Figs.
of the
412 to 418 show the details
Fig. 412.
FiG. 413.
Fig.
Car requires but
412. The
little
explana-
clearly.
Pro-
Fig. 416.
Car.
First Step making over a Box

Fig. 414. Gate
Front of Car.
Figs. 415 to 418. Details of Propeller.
Fig. 413.
in
for a Car.
for
cure a box about 16 inches deep, 20 inches wide, and
remove the bottom and one end, nail the

bottom boards crosswise to form the car seat (Fig. 413),
and saw off the projecting ends. Reenforce the sides
of the box with vertical boards (Fig. 412).
Cut the
first two boards long enough to support the pitched foot3 feet long;
mm
board, which should be fastened
seat,
and make the
333
14 inches below the
board on each side project
first
inch
beyond the box (Fig. 412) to form a rabbet for the gate
Nail cleats
and L to the side boards, where
to set in.
shown, and fasten the foot-board upon them. Fit the
seat-riser
between the seat and foot-board, make a seat
back as shown
wagon whe :1s
in Figs.
412 and 415, and attach a pair of
to the sides.
Fasten the gate boards together with three battens,
making the top and bottom battens long enough
to pro-
ject
\\ inches on each side; drive a 20-penny (4-inch)
nail
through each end
screw four screw-eyes

sockets, in
which to
of
the projecting battens, and

the
into
them
set
front
of
(Figs. 412
the
car for
and 414).
Bore eight f-inch holes through each side of the

\\ inches below the top, through which to
(Fig. 412); then cut
two
for the suspension stays,
tie
car,
the stays
6-foot lengths of J-inch rope
and
tie
the ends of one through
the two front holes, and the ends of the other through
the two rear holes (Fig. 412).
The Propeller (Figs. 415 to 418) requires a hub

I -by- -by- 10 inches in
1
size,
end (Fig. 417), and two blades similar

Notice that the
of the
other.
hub
strip,
slots are cut
to
Fig.
in the slots.
418.
diagonally across the ends
and that one
is
at right angles to the
Bore a J-inch hole through the center
side of the
strip
with a 3^-inch slot in each
of
one
hub strip (Fig. 417), then fasten the blades

Cut a stick 1 1 inches long for the propeller
334
one end, and
shaft (Fig. 415), fasten the propeller to
end
sert the other
the car
wooden
If
it
bored through the back of
in a hole
securely in position, and brace
it
with a
bracket.
you stretch the cable

you
side,
nail
in-
for
your airship upon a
hill-
will require
enough to lift the car

the ground is level, or nearly so
Starting Platform just high
off the
ground, but
(Fig. 405),
if
be necessary to construct a platform
will
it
8 feet or so above the surface to give the rope cable

sufHcient pitch.
This platform
apart,
and
is
built
is
between two
trees, 3 or
4 feet
Each bracket
supported by four brackets.
consists of three pieces of 2-by-4, as you will see by look-
Cut the piece marked
ing at Fig. 405.
and iVând
of
and
O
(9,
2 feet
and
M4
feet long,
6 inches long; miter the lower ends
let
upper ends into M.
their
Nail
the pieces together and spike two brackets to each tree
then spike crosspieces
under top piece

ports.
Cut the
and
across the trees, directly
of the brackets, as additional sup-
railing
uprights R, S, and
long, mortise the upper ends for the gate
through, and spike them to the brackets.
lower ends with the diagonal pieces
upper ends with boards
long enough to reach from

in a hole
strip
and Y,
V and
U)
feet
to slide
Brace the
W, and
their
Cut the gate {U)
to T, insert a short stick
bored near one end, for a handle, and
across the other end to prevent
it
nail a
from pulling
through the mortise in upright R.
33S
Nail the platform
boards in place, and fasten
Push-off Platform (Z) between the trees, 18 inches
above the main platform, for the
car.
Build a ladder from the ground to the main platform.
The Rope Cable.
and gee whatever length you
cable,
back
run
of the
one
upper station platform (Fig. 405), then
through the single blocks
it
work, and while you pull
much
will require in
Fasten one end of this rope to a tree a few feet
piece.
in
Purchase f-inch Manila rope for the
of the
in the balloon frame-
on the rope
slack as possible, have
to take
some one
up as
tie
the
lower end to the center of a rope stretched between two

trees at the lower
If
end
of the airship's course (Fig. 406).
there doesn't happen to be a tree directly in back of
the upper station, you can attach that end of the rope
same way that you fastened the

Tie the lower end of the rope low enough
lower end.
so the car will run upon the ground for a few feet,
and slow up, before reaching the end. Throw some
loose earth over the point of landing, and from there as
between two
far as the
trees, in the
end
of the rope, to retard the
speed of the
wheels.
To attach the
Car, hitch the loops of the
stays over the block

of the
hooks (Fig.
405),
and
suspension
tie
the ends
intermediate stays through the holes in the sides
of the car.
To pull back the Airship to the Starting
Platform,
S36
attach a strong cord to the

it
hook
in the stern block, run
through a small pulley attached
the
cable
platform to a
to the
405), and bring
(Fig.
windlass
it
constructed
upper end
down below
as shown in
of
the
the
illustration.
If
you boys club together
several of
auto-airship,
have the
you
first
workmen have
enjoy a
trip.
will
ride
have to
"
then, after
ridden,
you
By charging
toss
all
will
up
"
in
building an
to see
shall
and
want your friends
a small fare you can
the airship pay back, in a short time, what
expended for material.
who
of the " directors "
to
make
you have
r??^^"^TT!:^
Fig. 122.
Fig. 134.
Fig. 125.
Fig. 133.
Figs. 132
Fig. 124.
Fig. 125.
and 123. Tabourets.

Plant Stand.
Footstool.
>
^t^Hh^jÂ^hXzv
''111
I
CHAPTER XXI
CAMPING EQUIPMENT
When
the last day of school arrives, isn't
it
with a
sense of relief that you pack up your books, carry them
home, and throw them on to a high
bedroom
closet
somewhere out
shelf,
of sight
or into your
And isn't
it
hard to realize that you need not think of lessons again

for
more than two months, and
you are
that
used to be that way
It
when
of
you boys
out for the
first
will
much
in this regard.
experience the joys of camping
time this summer,
the
always remains freshest in one's memory, as

is
amusing
so full of
do
the author was a boy, and
conditions probably haven't changed
Some
free to
summer days ?
whatever you choose for the balance of the
incidents,
and those
trip
which
it
generally
of
you who
have camped out before wnll probably not miss an opportunity to do so again this year; but,
for
you
to
go away from town, there
if
is
it
is
not possible
no reason w^hy you
cannot camp out near home, in some vacant
your back yard, or on the porch or
Tent
is
one of the
ment to look
after.
first
The
lot,
or in
roof.
parts of the
camping equip-
prices of tents vary in different

337
33^
you can get an 8 foot by lo
locations, but
New
for about $7,
and a wall tent
of the
A"
same
size (see photo-
Tent.
graph opposite page 340) for about $g, while

cost about one half as much as the tent.
the
you wish
work
cost.
to
make
difficult,
and you
The sewing
will
machine.
ay^
will
a tent yourself, you will not find

will
save considerable on the
together of the strips of canvas
the hardest part of the
mother
tent
York, Chicago, Denver, or San Francisco,
Fig. 419.
If
A"
lo-ounce duck, complete with poles and
(Fig. 419) of
stakes, in
foot "
work
for a
boy
is
probably your
be willing to do this for you on her sewing-
Eight-ounce duck, 29 inches wide,
retails at
about 15 cents a yard, and the lo-ounce weight, which

is
better for the purpose, at about 18 cents a yard.
For making an
diagram
"A"
(Fig. 420),
The diagram shows
Tent of the size shown upon the
you
will require
30 yards of material.
the completed tent as
it
would appear
CAMPING EQUIPMENT
when spread out
flat
will see that strips
and that
A, B,
E, G,
strips
are also the
as
angular pieces F,
and
upon the ground, and
also the di-
for cutting the different lengths of canvas.
mensions
size,
339
/,
C,
and
and
You
are of equal length,
K are
of
one shape and
tri-
H,
/,
L and strips J/ and N.
Lap each
strip a full
over the edge
inch
of the ad-
joining pieces, as indicated
by the dotted
lines
sew each
and
diagram,
on the
seam near the edges with

a double row of stitching.
After
all
the
of
pieces
have been cut and sewed
back
turn
together,
outside edges
the
inch,
5 inches.
indicated by dotted lines,

to finish
them
Buy one dozen
off
and
Diagram for Making an

''A" Tent, 7 feet by 9 feet and
Fig. 420.
as
at the
same
time, reenforce them.
i-inch iron harness rings for the ridge
and
guy-rope eyelets, set two in the canvas at the ends of the

ridge,
and one
at the
end
of
each of the side seams, and
buttonhole stitch them in place.
The canvas
should be
reenforced with a square patch in the places where the

eyelets are to be set in in the ridge.
and straps
tie
to
Sew
canvas loops
the flaps, in the locations indicated, and
the guy-ropes through the eyelets provided for them.
340
Figures 421 to 423 show the details for
These should be cut out

of pieces if inches square, which may be ripped out of a
Cut the uprights about 5 feet 10 inches
piece of 2-by-4.
The Ridge-pole and Uprights.
which
will allow for setting the
ground,
and the ridge-pole 9
long,
the
Round
ends 3 inches into

feet 5 inches long.
Drive
off the top of the ridge-pole as in Fig. 423.
a piece of f-inch or |-inch iron rod into one end of each
upright (Fig. 422), and bore
two holes,
-|
inch
larger
than the rods, through the

ridge-pole
in
the
proper
positions for the rods to

in (Fig. 421).
tin
fit
piece of
bent around the ends
of the pole, as in Fig. 423,

will
Fig. 421.
Fig. 422.
Connection of Ridge-pole
with Upright.
Fig. 422. End of Upright.
Fig. 423. End of Ridge-pole.
prevent the rods from
splitting them.
Fig. 421.
Fourteen Tent Stakes will
be
required,
and these
should be prepared at home,
to save delay in pitching the tent after
you reach your
camping ground.
Pitch your Tent
supply
if
possible,
upon a
level spot, close to
and dig a
little
your water
trench around
it
to
catch the surface rain-water, which would otherwise run

into the tent;
on the low
make
a couple of outlets from the trench,
side, so the
water
will drain
away.
Do
this
A-WALii Tent, Eight Feet by
Te^^^
Feet, with Fey.
Flapjacks for Two.
CAMPING EQUIPMENT
341
trenching as soon as you have pitched your tent
you may be caught unprepared
wise,
is
for a storm,
other-
and
it
unpleasant to be compelled to do the work during a
drenching
rain.
Tent Ground-cloth, which should be
material, should
be
of waterproof
upon the ground and lapped
laid
up around the sides of the tent; this will prevent

the dampness of the ground from penetrating your
bedding.
If
there are spruce or pine trees in the vicinity of your
camp, be sure
To make a Mattress upon which to spread your blan-
Cut a number
kets.
of
boughs, and lop
off
enough
of
the tips of the branches to form a good-sized pile of twigs.
Then
carry
these
to
your tent and, beginning
at the
proper point for the head of your bed, place a row of

the twigs upon the ground-cloth with the tips toward the
back
of the tent.
Next, place another layer of the twigs
over these, and lap the tips over the butt ends of the
row, and continue to lay
which
is
just the
way
in
row
after
row
in this
first
manner,
which the shingles on a roof
are lapped, until you have reached the foot of the bed.
The degree
depend entirely upon the care with which the twigs are placed and
how well the butt ends are concealed by the tips. To
of softness of this mattress will
avoid hard lumps, use only the slender portions of the
branches.
your bed
Spread your blanket upon the mattress, and

will
be complete^
342
If
to
the nights are cold in the region in which you intend
camp, take along
By
Sleeping-bag.
folding over your
the center, lengthwise, and then sewing
it
blanket along
along the side
and across the bottom, a very satisfactory bag may be

made. The author has found such a bag very comfort-
when camping
able, and,
in the
mountains where the
temperature at night drops below "freezing," has used
two
of these bags, slipping
With
double warmth.
around your neck, there
one inside of the other, to give
the top of the

is
no
bag pulled snugly
possibility for the cold air
The bag can be turned inside out every

morning and aired. With covers in common, you are
to reach you.
likely to
one
awaken some
of the other
night, feeling cold, to find
boys has been over-generous to himself
the clothes, unless you
with
your portion
that
know how
to " cling " to
but with a sleeping-bag you are safe from
disturbance.
Other Equipment.
No two
boys
will carry the
same
equipment with them when going camping, and every

boy
will find after
he has reached camp that he has taken
along lots of needless things and
which would add greatly
left
behind
to his comforts
but this
thing which most campers experience, and

ever a
man
carries exactly the
the reason that he
he can make
it
is
same
outfit
continually finding
many
it is
articles
is
some-
doubtful
on two
if
trips, for
some way wherein
more compact and complete. The

much.
est trouble lies generally in taking along too
great-
The
CAMPING EQUIPMENT
location of your
what special
camp
articles
will
343
determine to a great extent
should be included in the
outfit,
and
an experienced camper, familiar with that part of the

country, will be a good one to consult about your require-
ments.
frying-pan, kettle, saucepan, baking pan, coffee-pot,
wash-basin, two water pails, tin plates and cups, spoons,
knives and forks, and a can-opener will be required for

the kitchen outfit
and towels,
matches, a lantern and a can of kerosene

ax, a
about complete the general equipment.

several sizes of nails,
penny, and 20-penny,
which you
An
will
It is
good plan
lo-penny, 16-
for there will probably
Lamp
for locating things in
nails, will just
8-penny,
wish to make while
Electric Flash
candles, an
oil,
sharpening stone, hammer, saw and
to take
and twine,
rags, soap, rope
is
a very
in
camp.
handy
and about the
be things
have
article to
tent,
when you do
not care to bother with lighting your lantern.
Wrap your matches
Packing.
in paraffine paper,
and
then place them in a tin can to protect them from dampness
and put all the other small
in small
sacks
all
articles of
bags provided with draw strings
may be
fixed for the purpose.
your equipment
;
salt
Pack the
other things belonging to the general
which are not too bulky,
in grocery boxes.
and
flour
sacks,
and
equipment
When
you
get to camp, you will find the boxes handy for keeping
things
in,
and those not required
make good
stools
and
will
for this purpose will
be good for setting things on.
344
Safety Match-box, a strong jack-knife, and fishing-
each boy of
made a part of the personal equipment

the camping party, and if each has
(Fig. 424) in
tackle should be
of
will
Duffle
Box
which
to carry his outfit,
he
save a general mix-up of things, possible loss of

small articles, and result-
ing
unpleasantness
the other fellow
may
think
is
with
whom
he
to blame.
A grocery box will serve

the
but
purpose,
this
should be gone over carefully,
and
nails
show signs
all
boards whose
of loosen-
ing should have additional

nails
FiG. 424.'
Camp Duffle Box.

Strap Handle.
Fig. 426. Pocket on Inside of Cover.
Fig. 424.
Fig. 425.
driven
into
them.
Batten together the cover
boards on the inside, hinge
them
to the
box with strap-
and fasten a hasp to the front so the box may be

padlocked for transporting, and whenever you are away
hinges,
from camp.
Handles may be made out
strap, or several thicknesses of cloth tape,
to the
of
box with screws
(Fig. 425).
By
of pieces of a
and be secured
fastening a piece
canvas or heavy cloth to the inside of the cover,
over the battens (Fig. 426), tacking

edge, and
making buttonholes
in
it
along the bottom
the side and upper;
edges to button over large-head tacks, the space
be-
CAMPING EQUIPMENT
tween the battens
a pocket for writing
serve as
will
345
materials.
any boy
If
your party has had experience
in
cooking, leave to
him
the matter of purchasing
But
Food Supplies.
camp
in
you are
if
"
all
green
"
at
it,
you
had better get your mothers to help you make out your
grocery
Each mother
list.
will
of the size of her son's appetite,
have a pretty
and
it
ought
fair idea
to be
an
easy matter for her to estimate on the proper quantities
and
varieties of supplies to
do him.
But she should be
warned, beforehand, to allow for an increased appetite

also to select such things as can
Then compare
all
the
lists
easily be
prepared.
and compile one complete
list
from them.
Fish and
but
game may possibly be secured
best not to count
it is
upon
this as a certainty,
to take along plenty of everything, unless
your camp
If
ham
you are
will
to be Cook, find out
and tea
to see
;
you know that
how
also try
how
to
make
flapjacks, gra-
and johnny-cake, and watch your
she prepares breakfast cereals, coffee,
your hand
at
cooking these things
while at home, instead of waiting until you get into
and starving your companions, as well as

the experimental period.
ness
all
and
be within easy reach of supplies.
muffins, biscuits,
mother
while in camp,
It will
yourself,
camp
during
save lots of unpleasant-
around.
The trouble met with in

Making an Open Fire for cooking generally
arises
from
346
getting
What
it
is
too large, so that
necessary
it
a small
is
is
fire
all
blaze and smoke.
of hot coals.
If
have watched an experienced camper prepare his
you
fire,
you have noticed that he confines it to a small place.

The Backwoodsman's Scheme of building his fire between
two logs placed alongside
apart at one end and
Fig. 427.
427),
is
of
each other, about 6 inches
inches apart at the other end (Fig.
The Backwoodsman's Camp Fireplace.
very satisfactory for a fireplace, as the
fined between the logs, and,
Two
inner faces.
obtained.
fire
from
it is
known
well to plaster
mud against
their
forked branches are driven into the
ground, one at each end

pole,
is
logs should be green, and, to prevent the
getting under them,
of the fireplace,
and a horizontal
as a lug pole, rests in the forks
the pothooks.
con-
by keeping the wide opening
turned toward the wind, a splendid draft
The
fire is
and supports
CAMPING EQUIPMENT
may
The Pothooks
the proper length,
347
made from forked sticks cut to

with nails driven into them near the
be
lower ends (Fig. 428), or out of pieces of heavy wire bent
hooks
into
at
one end and loops
429), the loops being
made
large
back and forth on the lug
end (Fig.
at the other
enough so they
will slide
pole.
Both the stick and wire pothooks
may
made
be
short
enough
to
accommodate the largest pot you

and then lengthened to suit
the small utensils by means of
have,
S-shaped extension hooks bent out

of wire (Fig. 430)
from an empty
tin
tacked
across
coffee-pot
and
the
A piece
can
logs
of tin
may be
the
for
for handleless utenFig. 428.
which are too small
sils
for the
Fig.
logs to support.
Such
his
safety,
Fig.
above
fireplace as the
can be built anywhere, even

fect
Stick Pothook.
Wire Pothook.
430. -Extension Hook.
428.
Fig. 429.
back yard, with per-
in a
and any boy can use
pothooks and supports out
his ingenuity to rig
of plain sticks
if
up
he can-
not find suitable branches for the purpose.
Sheet-iron
Camp
Stove,
tograph opposite page 340,

campers, and
open
fire.
is
shown in the phovery commonly used by
such as
is
is
handier and easier to cook on than the
stove of the size
shown
in the illustration
can usually be bought complete with stovepipe for $1.50.
348
Dutch Oven
is
good substitute
for the
camp
stove,
It consists of a
and answers almost every purpose.
shallow iron pan or kettle, supported upon iron legs and
furnished with a tight-fitting cover.
It is set in
a bed
of red-hot coals, then after the biscuits, muffins, beans,
meat,
or other food which
fish,
roasted
to be baked, stewed, or
is
placed in the pan, the cover
is
is fitted
on and
hot coals are heaped up at the sides and over the top.
medium-sized oven
A Camp
Fireless Cooker
inasmuch
will cost î.oo.

is
another handy contrivance,
as food can be prepared in
it
while you are
away from camp, so that it will be ready to eat immediately upon your return at night tired and hungry.
A
cooker
may
be constructed out of a grocery box; and
hay or dried leaves may be used for packing. See directions on page 136 for making a fireless cooker.
By
setting the cooker
box into a hole
throwing earth over the cover

within, the insulation will be
in the
ground, and
after placing the food
more nearly
perfect.
To build a Fire properly, whittle a few shavings and

cut a
number
of small sticks,
of a lead-pencil
and others a
some
little
to about the size
larger,
spread
the
shavings along the bottom of the fireplace, and upon

these pile up the sticks, loosely and crisscrossed, so as to
allow plenty of openings for draft.

ings,
and
as soon as the sticks
larger pieces of
put on too
many
wood
Set
fire to
the shav-
have kindled, add a few
to the pile
pieces before the
but be careful not to

fire
has
made
a good
CAMPING EQUIPMENT
start,
or you will choke out the flame.
349
good
fire
is
obtained only by careful building, and requires continual
camp cooking.
of wood at hand, some
attention to be satisfactory for
Always keep a good supply

place under cover where
and dew, so you
which
to kindle
Camp
your
comforts of
camp
fire.
and a few seats add
table
and the making
life,
interesting occupation for days
around
The
camp.
be protected from rain
never be without dry wood with
will
Furniture.
will
it
three
to the
of these furnishes
when you wish
to stay
tools
mentioned among the camp equip-
ment are all that are necessary for

making camp furniture, because fine
work is neither required nor desirable in the woods.
Figure 431 shows
A Camp
You
Chair that
is
easily
will notice that the
the pieces are
left
being beveled to
made.
edges of
all
square, instead of
fit
the adjoining
surfaces, that the seat
board
is
Fig. 431.
nailed to the diagonal brace C,
and
A Camp Chair.
A, with cleats D
E nailed on to support them, and that the diagonal
leg F
slanted as much as you wish to have the chair
the two fastened to the chair back
and
is
back
slant,
and
is
braced by the two side braces G.
A Camp Table (Fig.
432).
By fastening
together several
35
boards with battens, a good table top can be made, and

this
may
be supported at one end on a cleat nailed across

a tree trunk (Fig. 433),
and at the other end
on a couple
of stakes
driven into the ground

(Fig. 432).
Boxes can usually be

picked up in the vicin-
and Bench.
Cleat Support on Tree.
Fig. 433.
an old camp, and
added to those
which you brought
in
Fig. 432.
A Camp Table
Fig. 432.
ity of
these,
your
outfit,
ized for
Good Table Bench
is
can be
many
util-
things.
obtained by laying a plank across
the tops of two boxes (Fig. 432), and
Comfortable Box Bench
is
made by removing one
side
of a box, then placing the
box on the ground, bottom

up,
and
constructing
back as shown
To keep
it
Use
in Fig. 434.
from overturn-
ing, nail the
driven
into
your
box
to stakes
the
ground.
ingenuity
in
constructing
Box Cupboards to hang in

the tent and upon the trees.
^'^' 434-
Comfortable Box Bench.
^^$,^4b^S,^:k
CHAPTER XXII
A HOME-MADE PUNT
Good workmanship is necessary

so much for the sake of appearance
ability,
but neat appearance
in a properly
in boat building, not
as for safety
and dur-
be found lacking
will not
The
planned and carefully built boat.
nearer a boat approaches the square lines of a box, the

easier
it is
to build,
and
it is
well for a
the simplest forms, such as the punt

for a first attempt.
to try
shown
one
of
in Fig. 435,
principles of boat building are
you have constructed a punt you

have had enough experience to enable you to tackle
easily learned,
will
The
boy
and
after
other forms of craft of more complicated construction.

Dimensions.
The punt shown
feet long, 3 feet 6 inches wide,
in the illustration is 12
and 18 inches deep, but
these dimensions can easily be increased or reduced
you wish a boat

Material.
terial,
free
is
of other proportions.
Get pine or cypress
and be sure
to see that
from knots and other
generally
if
hard to
it is
defects.
find,
for
your building ma-
well seasoned, dry,
and
Stock 18 inches wide
nowadays,
in
most
localities,
so probably you will have to use an 8-inch and a lo-inch

351
35=
board, or a 6-inch and a
2-inch board, for each side.
The
bottom boards should be either 4 or 6 inches wide and
Fig. 435-
Fig. 435.
Fig. 436.
Fig. 437.
A Home-made Punt.
How the Bottom Boards are Put On.
Bevel
off the
Bottom Edge of the Stem and Stern
Pieces.
have plain edges, not tongued and grooved, and the seats
may
be
made
of
any scraps you have on hand.
W^
-:^||;
Fig. 438.
Batten Together the Side Boards
Figure 438 shows
like this.
how
The Side Boards should be battened together.
Make
the center batten 10 inches wide and the other two bat-
tens about 4 inches wide
fasten the latter in place about
HOME-MADE PUNT
Short nails
24 inches from the ends.
pieces as battens very well,

nails,
it
is
good plan
will
not hold such
and the clinching
where they are exposed
able, so
353
of
long
to view, is not very desir-
to use screws of the
proper
length for the purpose.
When
the boards of the side pieces have been battened
B4
together, locate the points
inches below the top edge,
then connect them with points
AB,
as shown,
and saw
off the
by the diagonal
ends on these
lines
lines.
Cut the Stem and Stern Pieces 4 inches wide and 3 feet
4 inches long, then turn the side pieces over on their

top edge as
shown
and
in Fig. 436,
fit
these pieces be-
tween their ends.

Cut the Bottom Boards
3 feet 6 inches long,
4-inch or 6-inch boards mentioned before.

of the side pieces
and the edges
of
out of the
Coat the edges
each bottom board
with white lead, and drive each board as close as possible
Use copper or galvanized
to the preceding piece.
nails
for fastening the boards; these will stand the exposure

to water, but wire or wrought-iron nails
without galva-
nizing will not, and will soon rust through and break
The bottom edge
of the
stem and stern pieces
to be beveled off with a plane as
also
edge
one edge
of the
the boards
of the first
and
bottom boards
fit
shown
last
will
off.
have
in Fig. 437, as will
bottom boards, and one
at the ridges, in order to
make
together perfectly at those points.
Fasten an Inner Keel Board to the bottom of your boat
along the center, from
bow
to stern, as a protection to
354
the bottom boards, and nail a cleat to
it
in the proper
place to brace your feet against while rowing.
Figure 435 shows the arrangement of the three

Seats. Fasten these to cleats placed about 3 inches below
the top of the sides.
Make the
center seat out of a lo-inch

board, and the end seats
out of a lo-inch
and an
board (which
8-inch
will
make them about
18
inches wide), and nail a

Fig. 439.
The End Seat.
batten
short
under side
across
of the
the
end seats
shown in Fig. 439, to prevent them from springing

apart and catching one's
as
clothes between them.
Rowlocks.
vanized
Fig. 440.
pair of gal-
wrought-iron
locks, of the
row-'
form shown
in
Fig. 440, can be purchased

for 25 or
30 cents, and
it is
an easy matter to make the

socket blocks for them
set in (Fig. 441).
_U=r:=l^ Fig. 442.
Fig. 443.
Figs. 440 and 441.
Figs. 442 and 443.
Rowlocks.
Thole-pins.
to
Cut two
blocks about 8 inches long,

I
J inches wide, and
thick
inches
bevel the ends, and
bore a ^-inch hole near each
A
end
top
for bolting,
HOME-MADE PUNT
355
and a ^-inch hole from the center
down through each
for the
rowlock to drop
of the
into.
The
socket plate (Fig. 440), which comes with the rowlock,
should be set into the block flush with the top.
Bolt the
blocks to the sides of the punt (Fig. 441) so the centers

will
be 14 inches from the center of the center seat.
In case you cannot conveniently get rowlocks,

Thole-pins
may
made and used
be
as
a substitute.
Figure 442 shows a pin cut from a piece of broom-handle,

and Fig. 443 shows how a pair of them should be set
into holes bored in a block similar to those
The
rowlocks.
shown
for the
holes for the pins should be placed about
3 inches apart.
The Painter
may
be knotted on the end and slipped
through a hole bored

notch
may
in
the stem piece, and a circular
be cut in the top edge of the stern piece to
admit an oar or paddle for steering.

Finishing.
made, and
all
Set
all
nail-heads, putty
up the holes thus
other holes and defects, and then give the
boat two or three coats of lead paint, inside and out, in

color to suit your taste.
CHAPTER
XXIII
A HOME-MADE SHARPIE
'\\\.--ill--\\\r///
Although
there
is
{\\
more work
to the construction of
a sharpie than the punt described in the last chapter,

is
much
row on account
easier to
bow; at the same

no more than that
boat
is
of its
it
wedge-shaped
time, the material required will cost

for the other boat.
The
flat-bottom
generally considered one of the best forms of
cheap rowboats, and you
Fig. 444.
upon the
rivers
at private piers.
find
it
in
common
use
A Home-made Sharpie.
and small
It is
will
not
lakes, at
summer
resorts
and
difficult to build one.
Figure 444 shows a sharpie 13 feet long,

3 feet 6 inches wide amidships, and 18 inches deep,
Dimensions.
356
A HOME-MADE SHARPIE
You may
you
do,
alter these proportions
every part will

it
you wish,
draw out your revised plan and
sizes for all the pieces before
As
if
is
fit
357
but, in case
figure
out the
beginning work, so that
properly.
difficult to
get boards wider than 14 inches,
Fig. 449.
Pattern for the Side Pieces.

Two Forms of Stem-piece.
Fig. 447. Pattern for the Stern-piece.
Fig. 448. Pattern for the Stretcher.
Fig. 449. How the Above Pieces are put Together.
Fig. 445.
Fig. 446.
and 12 inches
will
have
is
usually the widest stock material, you
to use either a 12-inch
and a 6-inch board, or a
lo-inch and an 8-inch board, for
The Side
Pieces.
The boards should be
of i-inch stock,
358
and should be dressed on both
Figure 445 shows

the pattern for the lower boards, with the dimensions
for cutting the slants
sides.
on the bow and stern ends.
Cut the Stem-piece like one of the forms shown in Fig.
446.
is
neater appearing bow, as

side pieces;
the simpler form to cut, but
finishes off the
it
the side boards
the sides of piece B.
If
fit
form
makes the
ends of the
into the rabbets cut in
is
used, the ends of
the side pieces must be finished off by nailing a strip 3

inches wide to the edges of the side pieces and the stempiece (C, Fig. 452).
Figure 447 shows the pattern for

The Stern-piece, and Fig. 448 shows the pattern for
The
Stretcher,
both
which should be prepared as
of
soon as the stem-piece has been

To put together the
sides,
the stretcher (Fig. 449),
first
cut.
stem-and stern-pieces, and

nail
the
ends of the side
them
pieces to the stem-piece, then nail
to the
ends of
the stretcher, which should be placed in the exact center

of the length of the sides.
Draw
the stern ends toward
each other until they are of the required distance apart

for the stern-piece to
fit
between, and tack a temporary
piece across the edges to hold

449).
It is
amount,
them
in position
(Fig.
necessary to bend each side piece the same
in order to turn out a boat
which
will
not have
a tendency to swerve to one side with each stroke of the

oars,
and the best way
to get the sides symmetrical
is
by
attaching a cord to a nail driven into the center of the
A HOME-MADE SHARPIE
end
of
the
stem-piece, stretching
length of the boat and holding

stern-piece (Fig. 449)
stretcher,
if
it
359
along the entire
it
at the center of the
this crosses the center of the
you may know that the work
is
right,
and you
can fasten the stern ends permanently in place;
if
does not cross the stretcher at the center,
be a
simple matter to bend one side piece a

other a
little
less, until
little
it
will
it
more and the
the string crosses the center of
the bow, stern, and stretcher in a straight line.
The
may be fastened permanently in place,

may be driven part way in (Fig. 450) so
stretcher
or the nails
Fig. 450.
they
may
How the Bottom Boards are put On.
be removed and the stretcher taken out after
the center seat has been put in place and the bracing
no longer required.
The
is
top boards of the sides should
be nailed on as soon as the framework has been trued

up,
and the ends
of these
should be cut off even with the
stem- and stern-pieces.
The Bottom Boards should be either 4-inch or 6-inch

boards of i-inch stock, dressed on two sides and two
edges.
Get the dryest material you
can, for the pieces
360
must not shrink to any marked degree after being put

in place or the seams will open and cause the boat to
leak dry stuff will swell when exposed to the water, and
The boards must
the seams will close up very tight.
;
Before putting on
not have tongued-and-grooved edges.

the boards,
it
be necessary to plane
will
bottom
off the
edges of the side pieces, because, as a result of the
change
in the twist of the
stern, these
edges
will
is
bottom
to.
Do
be slightly curved.
carefully so as to provide a straight

nail the
bow and
boards between the
this
work
and true surface
Cut the boards a
little
to
longer than
necessary, and then, starting at the stern end, nail the
pieces in place, driving each board as tight as possible
The edges
against the preceding piece.
of the boards
and the side pieces should be given a thick coat
See instructions given
lead to caulk up the seams.
on
putting
Punt{^^^^
It
of white
attach
of
the
353).
not
will
bottom
the
for
keel
be
necessary to
along the entire
length of the bottom of the boat,
but
Fig. 451.
Attachment
Skee'.
in
I
Fig. 451.
-inch stuff
of
A
for
Skeg
should
be
prepared
the sloping stern as
shown
This triangular piece may be cut out
and should be
of the
proper size
nailed in place, the lower edge will line

straight part of the
bottom
of the boat,
so,
of
when
up with the
and the end
will
A HOME-MADE SHARPIE
up with the face
line
361
The
of the stern-piece.
illustration
shows how the piece should be attached and braced with

small
wooden
strips.
with the center of the
The skeg must be

bow and stern its
in
an exact
line
position can be
determined by stretching a cord through the centers.
The
end
strip at the
of
the skeg not only holds this
piece to the stern, but forms a strip in which to screw
the screw-eyes for the rudder hooks.
Fasten an Inner Keel Board in the bottom as described
on page 353
for the
Punt,
Seats should be fastened in the
bow and
stern ends
and
These should be supported upon cleats, and the neatest way to put on the cleats
is to make them continuous as shown in the illustration,
and fasten them low enough so they will cover the seams
between the side boards. Batten together the pieces of
shov/n in Fig. 444.
in the center as
the
bow and
in Fig. 439,
The Bow
stern seats as
of the
completed next.
a
shown
page 354.
Boat should be
If
you have made
wedge-shaped stem-piece {A,
Fig. 446), cut strip

3 inches wide,
to extend
(Fig. 452)
and long enough
from li inches above
the stem-piece
side of the
down
under
to the
bottom boards
Fig. 452.
prepare two triangular pieces similar to

strip
Finishing of Bow.
then
C and screw them in place
as
D to
shown.
If
fit
against
stem-piece
362
was
used (Fig. 446),
(Fig. 452) against
it
in
two pieces similar to

the same way.
fit
For the Painter secure a small
staple,
and a yacht or
harness iron ring, and attach these to the
bow
shown
as
in Fig. 452.
An
Easily
Made Rudder
Figure 453 shows
it
is
shown
completed; Fig.
in Figs.
453 to 457.
454 shows how screw-
eyes are screwed into the strip fastened to the stern-piece,
Fig. 453.
Fig. 456.
Fig. 454Figs. 453-457.
into
which
to
hook the rudder hooks and

;
and 457 show the
The
Details of an Easily Made Rudder.

Figs. 455, 456,
details for constructing the rudder.
rudder (Fig. 457) should be

mortised to receive the end of the rudder, as shown,
cross-bar of
the
and a hole should be bored through the rudder through

which to drive a pin to hold the cross-bar in place
(Fig. 455).
Get two 7-inch iron hooks {A, Fig.
456),
bend the ends out straight, and then bend a new 4-inch
hook on each {B^ Fig. 456). Screw these hooks in the
A HOME-MADE SHARPIE
proper positions so they
will
hook
363
into the screw-eyes in
the stern.
The Rowlock Blocks should be prepared and attached as
shown
in Fig. 441 or Fig. 443,
Rowlocks
or Thole-pins
page 354, and either
should be
fitted into
them
(Figs.
440 and 442, page 354).

Finish the Boat as directed for the
355).
Punt
(see
page
""
^j^r^MiJÂr^HXiv
1_L
'
CHAPTER XXIV
PUSHMOBILES AND OTHER
HOME-MADE WAGONS
\y..-(ih^\v-}ll
With
make
all
cart to
the necessary wheels in hand,
at a
it
own
possible to
which a boy can procure wheels
he
if
Oftentimes a pair can be picked up
any.
second-hand store or at a junk shop, for 50 or 75

sometimes a neighbor who has a grown son
cents a pair
can find a few for you by a
shed or barn
whom
loft;
you can
little
and often you
strike a
rummaging through
will
Pushmobile
that has
Wagon,
good bargain.
when
bicycle,
may
tri-
be used.
home-made wagon
simple wagons which
a unique form of
been developed from the
the boys used to
behind,
is
the
run across a boy with
cycle, velocipede, and baby-carriage wheels
is
from a simple two-wheeled dogThere are a number of

a model automobile.
sorts of wagons,
sources from
doesn't
{\\
make
for coasting,
and
for
pushing from
the automobile was unknown.
is
pat-
terned as nearly as possible after an automobile, and
it is
It
pushed by the mechanician, who runs behind, while the
Working deunique wagons are shown
driver rides and attends to the steering.

tails for
making one
in Figs.
458
of these
to 471.
364
Some of the Competing Cars in the Flushing Pushmobile

Club Races.
PUSHMOBILES AND OTHER HOME-MADE WAGONS

Paul
the
first
rivalry
Towne
of Flushing,
Long
Island,
to build a pushmobile,
and
was probably
boy
which sprang up among the boys who made
similar "machines," each of
vantages for his
as a result of the
A Pushmobile.
Fig. 458.
whom
claimed superior ad-
car,
The Flushing Pushmobile Club was organized
autumn
365
of 1906 for the
The
bile races.
purpose
of
in the
promoting pushmo-
Brooklyii Daily Times of Dec. 15, 1906,
contained an interesting account of the work of the club,
from which the following details

are taken
of several of its races
"
The Flushing Club has held three great races during its active career.
The first was an intersuburban affair and was to determine
whether championship honors should go to Flushing, College Point, or
Bayside, membership in the club being from
tries.
The honors
in this race
all
these
went to Flushing,
foreign
'
for President
counPaul
366
Towne and
his brother
Many
ing merchants contributed toward

tion
came from Mr.
Vanderbilt.
According to the deed of
come
gift
the
the property of the winner.
fluke, for the car
The second
Herbert were the winners.
for the Vanderbilt cup, so called.
it,
but the largest individual subscrip-
The trophy was valued at over ^50.

trophy must be won three times to beThe first race for this cup ended in a
winning the race was protested.
be run over.
that the race should
and Lawrence, who won the
first
The
under the circumstances.
race was
of the Murray Hill and Flush-
The second
race.
It
was then decided
event was
won by Brown
This was a very popular victory
third big event was a race for the Reiger
cup, a beautiful trophy presented by Charles Reiger of Flushing.
event brought out the
This
strength of the club, for there were twenty
full
The trophy was won by Donahue and Johnson."
cars in the race.
The photographs
show
opposite page 364
several of
the competing machines, while those opposite this page
show the
start of
one
of the club's races
The winning team
winning teams.
and one
of the
in
The Vanderbilt Cup Race covered the course, which
was ten times around a

seconds.
city block, in 27
minutes and 12
This was one of the most interesting
races.
You will notice by the photographs that the boys have

shown considerable ingenuity in working out the plans
for
their
pushmobiles.
Various
kinds
and
sizes
of
wheels have been used; some of the bodies are built low
and others high
some
of the
after foreign racing machines,
models have been copied
and others have been
terned after roadsters and runabouts.
been made
of
grocery boxes, sheet metal, barrel hoops
covered with canvas, or built up with box boards

boy,
pat-
The hoods have
who wanted
and one
to get the pointed nose effect of the
"::^p
1
m^-
;*>;
^^V'
J..'
5S
-
^*îij
".
MgM^^^^âH
t
ir'i
Winning Cak
At the Start
^^-
Off.
-;
in
-"
,i-
-m
\.
:
^-
<-*'
the Vanderbilt Cup Race.
Flushing Pushmobile Club Race.

French
racer,
used the sawed-off
To furnish
his.
the
"
and
this
row boat
of a
chug," "chug," and
dummy
automobile, one lad equipped a

line engine,
bow
"
smell
"
367
for
of the
car with a gaso-
was run over the course
for the
benefit of the spectators.
The Brooklyn Daily Times published

interesting
Description of a Pushmobile Race
"Is a pushmobile race exciting?
tators
who crowd
the course.
score-cards, pencils,
come
to
that one leads.
One
car
is
of strength and endurance they possess.

close,
it is
happens,
all
only there
is
not a breakdown
The
first
with
cars
an expert
now ahead, and then
is
the rest and looks like a

cars use every bit
Now
seen that some two or three are leading.
if
The
As the contest comes

That
by each man and woman with the score-card.

finish.
It takes
at a time.
This car
gaining a lap on
almost as
cars are timed for each lap.
There are spurts in which the boys on the
winner.
is
not more, than in the big races.
the records accurately.
all
The
it
men and women
be
will
and half a dozen
singly, three, four,
keep
if
you that
will tell
There
and stop-watches.
Seconds count as much,
Ask any of the hundreds of spec-
They
interesting as a real auto race.
the following
is
the
Then
if
to a
no accident
hope expressed
the rush for the
car to complete the ten laps, and then the figuring for
elapsed time, and finally the declaration of the winner and the shouts
for the successful car."
Now, boys, if you have not become

after reading the
fired
with enthusiasm
above accounts of the
work
of
the
Flushing Pushmobile Club, the author has missed his
work and construct a machine

in Fig. 458 and described upon the
following pages, then show it to your boy friends, and the
guess
like the
if
you
have, get to
one shown
368
chances are there
be enough machines in your town
will
within a few days to
make
it
possible to
a Pushmobile Club, or to
Organize
make pushmobile
racing a feature of your present neighborhood or school

club.
To construct a Pushmobile.
When
procuring wheels
for a pushmobile, get the iron axle rods
washers that belong to the wheels,

easy enough to
are lost, but
refit
if
and nuts and
possible
be
will
it
nuts and washers to the axles
you cannot get the axles or

you will have
if
if
they
find another
pair that will do,
To make
New
Axles.
the proper diameter to
fit
couple of round iron rods of
the hubs of your wheels can be
wagon shop, or
blacksmith shop, and you can have them cut to the
procured at almost any hardware

proper length,
store,
and
threaded for nuts,
places near each end,
in
drilled
two
by a machinist, plumber, or gas-
fitter.
You
wagon
before you can determine the length for the rods,
and
to decide
of course the length of the
be considered
for
have
will
an iron
pin, the
from running too

hole
is
made
The
also.
first
upon the width

wheel hubs
purpose of which
far
will
hole in the rod
back on the
is
to
axle,
is
of
your
have
to
provided
keep the wheel
and the second
for a stove-bolt or screw for fastening the
iron axle to the
wooden
axle and
wagon-bed (Figs. 477
and 478).
The Wooden Axles should be constructed first (Figs.
459 and 460). The sizes of these will depend upon the
369
length of the iron axles, the height of the wheels, and
The drawings
whether you want a high or low body.
show
machine with a body
that
is
higher than most of
KiNG-BOtT,
F
Fig. 460.
The
those
that
shown
is
Fig. 459.
The
Rear Axle.
makes
in the photographs, but this
a car
easier for the mechanician to push, for he does
not have
piece
Brace for the

Front Axle.
Fig. 461.
Front Axle.
much.
After cutting out
B and C of
the proper widths
to stoop over as
A, you must make
so the top of
B will
wheels are in place.
is
fastened to
when the
by means of a
be level with the top of
king-bolt (Fig. 460).
Connect the wooden axles by means of a piece of 2by-2 {D, Figs. 459 to 462), and brace the king-bolt of the
front axle to this strip with an iron strap, to prevent
it
from bending (Fig. 461); the brace should be about -^

inch thick and i inch wide, and should be bent and
drilled as
shown
in Fig. 461.
E and F are 2-by-4's and connect

A and B, to which they are nailed.
The Wagon-bed pieces

the tops of axle pieces
These
will
make your
For the
be of whatever length you have determined to

car.
Steering-wheel
driving-wheel,
if
possible,
get
an old sewing-machine
and use a broom-handle for a
370
Fig. 462.
(The front end of the
Framework of the Pushmobile.
strip
F is broken
off so that
you can see the
Screw the wheel
shaft (Fig. 463).
steering-gear.)
to the
end
of the
broom-handle (Fig. 465). If you cannot get a sewingmachine wheel, a wooden or iron wagon-wheel may be
wired to the end of the broom-handle (Fig. 466).
The
must be provided
with a drum upon which
shaft
FJ|\^SCBEW
to fasten the steering ropes
(Figs. 462
this
and 463), and
drum should be made
out of three circular blocks

Fig. 464.
Fig. 463.
Fig. 463.
Fig. 464.
Three Disks
How
machine Wheel
like these for
Fig. 466.
How
to a
SewingBroom-handle.
to attach a
to a
to
as
shown
Lay out
of Steering-wheol Shaft.
Fig. 465.
Wheel
and Shaft
Pushmobile.
for the
Drum
Steering-wheel
wire
Broom-handle.
Wagon
in
Fig.
464.
the center block
3 inches in diameter,
and
the outer, or flange, blocks
4 inches in diameter, and

before
cutting
them out

bore a i-inch hole through the center of each.
371
Nail the
drum over the

fasten the drum
blocks together, and slip the completed
end
broom-handle
of the
in place until after
but do not
you have mounted the shaft on the
framework.
Fasten a board to the wagon-bed, as shown at
on blocks similar to
462),
(Fig.
H and /; the blocks must be cut
to the proper slant so the position of the board will be

at right angles to the steering-wheel shaft.
the cross-piece
and
Board
nails.
through
/ to
its
the under side of strip
should have a
Then
D with a bolt
i-inch hole bored
center for the steering shaft to turn
a hole should be bored part
way through
strip
in line with the hole in G, for a socket for the

shaft.
take
To
connect the
some strong
drum on
rope, pass
it
fasten
D,
in,
and
directly
end
of the
the shaft to the wheels,
around the drum, cross the
ends on the under side (Fig. 463), run them through screweyes screwed into the cross-piece / on each side of strip
D, and attach them
to the
ends of the wooden
important to cross the rope after passing
it
axle.
around the
drum, for otherwise the pushmobile would turn

left
when you
When
fasten the
It is
to the
turn the wheel to the right, and vice versa.
the steering-gear has been carefully adjusted,
drum
to the shaft with a screw,
nail the steering line to the
the broom-handle about
drum
\ inch
and screw or
also drive a pin into
in front of
board
to pre-
vent the shaft from pulling out of place (Figs. 462 and
463).
372
When the
it is
frame of the pushmobile has been completed,
a simple matter to finish the body.
The Hood
is
made out of
a box with the cover and bottom
removed, and a three-sided top constructed upon
cannot find a box of the right

large box or build the
size,
hood out
it.
If
you
you can cut down a
of boards.
Figures 458
Fig. 470.
Fig. 471.
Radiator-front.
Lard-can Headlight and Bracket.
Fig. 469. Clock-case and Can for Side Lamps.
Fig. 470. The Completed Clock-case Side Lamp.
Fig. 471. Seat for Auto Wagon.
Fig. 467.
Fig. 468.
and 467 show the shape of the top. Fasten a small pill
box to the top of the hood, as shown, for the cap to the
"radiator" (Fig. 458).
After fastening the hood to the frame of the pushmobile,

tack a piece of screen wire over the front for
The
Radiator-front,
the edge, as
shown
and then attach a
strip of tin
in Fig. 467, to finish
it off.
around
373
are
made out
of a
up
of boards.
The
Seat, back,
and arms
of the
box cut down, and the rear end
Two
Headlights.
is
body
built
them
to the sides
on
Cut two
lard cans with their covers fitted
make splendid imitation headlights (Fig. 468).

wooden brackets similar to A (Fig. 468), nail
of
or screw
the radiator-front, and then nail
or screw the cans to the brackets and to the radiatorfront.
Bicycle lamps
Side Lamps.
may
be used for these, or
you can make lamps out of the cases

clocks (Figs. 469 and 470).
of
two old alarm-
To make a Clock-case Side Lamp, remove the works from

the case and put back the screws necessary to hold the
glass in place
of the
bottom
then cut a f-inch hole through the center

for the candle,
and wire the case
top of a small tin can of about the size of a
to the
-pound
paint can, punching holes through the clock-case and
the can through which to run

sets
tin
down
back
in the
can and
of the clock-case.
is
the wire.
The
candle
lighted by removing the
Nail or screw the case to the
side of the hood.
Paint your Machine with two coats of paint, using any
Of course you will want to make the

body of one color and the trimmings of another.
Paint your License Number upon the radiator-front with
color
you choose.
white or red paint.
Racing Pushmobile
may have
than the machine just described, or
much simpler body

you may make por-
374
tions removable so the
machine may be dismantled
for a
race.
An Auto Wagon.
body
The wagon shown
in Fig.
472 has a
built similar to that of the pushmobile, except that
Fig. 472.
the bed
is
made
An Auto Wagon.
solid out of boards
inch thick.
Make
the sides out of 8-inch boards
with a 2-inch strip nailed
make
the dashboard out of two
along the top edge, and
pieces of board battened together.
The Steering-wheel should be made out of a sewingmachine wheel and piece of gas-pipe as shown in Fig.
473.
Get a
gas-fitter to
prepare a piece of gas-pipe with

a
T connection
run through the

tion,
one end, and a short piece
at
and have him
crosswise, as
drill
shown
375
of pipe
in the illustra-
a hole through the vertical piece
near the upper end, and two holes through the
of pipe
cross-piece
one near each end.
Screw two screw-eyes
into the inside face of the dashboard, then slip the steer-
ing shaft through a hole bored through the bottom of

the wagon-bed, and through the screw-
Fasten the wheel to the end of
eyes.
the pipe by
means of
through the hole
a metal pin driven
in the pipe
Screw-eve
and wheel
hub, wrap some wire around the pipe
on a
line
with the top of the dashboard,
and solder
it
in place, to
keep the pipe
from slipping down (Fig. 473), and run

rope or chain from the ends of the lower
Fig. 473.
Details
of
Sewing-machine
Wheel and Gas-pipe
cross-piece to the axle ends.
The steering Steering wheel.

shaft and cross-piece may be made of wood, but of course
the iron pipe scheme is much stronger and is much better
Another Steering-gear.
wagon, where the weight of the

comes directly over the wheels, bringing a greater
upon each part. If you want to, you may rig up
in the case of the auto
driver
strain
dummy
steering-wheel and shaft, and provide for steer-
ing by running ropes from the axle ends around the sides
of the
wagon
attend to
method
it.
to the back,
It
where the mechanician can
might be a good plan
of steering,
anyway, so
to provide for this
in case
you give a
child
376
him
a ride at any time you can place
do the steering yourself from the

Build the Seat as
into each
of the
to hold
end
wagon
it
shown
of the seat,
in the
rear.
in Fig. 471,
and screw a hook
and a screw-eye into each side
proper position for
securely to the
and
in the front seat
wagon
it
to
hook
into,
sides.
Procure a Trip Gong for the front of the dashboard, or
upon
fasten an electric bell

side of the
2 -inch
plank, 6 or 8 inches
should be procured for
Fig. 474.
A Simple Push Wagon.
The Wagon-bed; a board

but of course
thicker
in-
wagon.
Figure 474 shows

A Simple Push Wagon.
in width,
and place a dry battery
it
piece
it
will
would
inch thick
may be
used,
not have> the stiffness that

have.
the
Also get a strong bqx,
377
knock out one end, nail a cleat to the ends of the

side and bottom boards to hold them together, and
fasten the box to one end of the wagon-bed as shown
474 and 475.
The Rear Wheels should be 16 or 18 inches in diameter
in Figs.
and should
set
under the center
of the
box
(Fig. 475).
Nail two blocks of the same thickness as the wagon-bed
bottom
to the
of the box,
and fasten the axle across them

.NUT
,/vWA5HR
-Batten
Fig. 475.
Bottom
Figs. 476 and 477.
View of Wagon-bed.
The Way to attach the Rear Axle.

Figs. 478 and 479. The Way to attach the Front Axle.
as
shown, running a stove-bolt or screw through the
holes (Figs. 477 and 478), and using either staples or

nails
bent over as additional fastenings (Figs. 476 to
478).
Drive a metal pin through the outer hole in the
axles to
keep the hubs
against the
The Axle
wood
(Figs.
of
the
wheels from rubbing
477 and 478).

Wheels is fastened to a wooden
for the Front
378

which
wagonbed by means of a king-bolt as shown in Figs. 478 and

Bore a hole through the wagon-bed for the bolt,
479.
and put washers where shown before screwing the nut
axle (Fig. 478),
in place.
in turn is pivoted to the
ic^H
h^M^hX:^
I
'
CHAPTER XXV
BIRD-HOUSES
.\\V.-ilh-\\\r/U
\\\
Birds seem to show a practical rather than an

sense in choosing their homes, and, unlike
us,
artistic
do not care
whether their houses are plain or highly ornamented.
common box
an
attraction
as
been spent
properly arranged
in
working out fancy

it
ample protection from
and where there
will
food
for
roofs,
of
of
time has
porches, and
is
placed where there
cats
and other enemies
will
be
of birds,
be a plentiful supply of seeds and
near
by,
and
water for
But carefully designed houses,
bath.
much
just as
one on which a great deal
doorways, provided
insects
is
drink and
of course,
appear
more pleasing to us, so it is best to

take pains in planning and constructing our garden
neater
and
bird homes.
Tomato
cans, apple
and sugar
barrels, fish kegs, nail
kegs and white lead kegs, cheese boxes, butter
firkins,
wooden pails, and small boxes such as soap and starch

come in can be procured by any boy, and from these materials there are
You
many kinds of houses that can be made.

new ideas for easily made houses
will find a variety of
379
38o
in this chapter,
and the materials mentioned are
suffi-
cient for the greater part of the construction of these.
Box Bird-house such
made out
of
as
shown
is
in Fig.
480 can be
an empty starch box, or you may cut out the
pieces and put together the box yourself.
In case you
make
the box, the
top edge of the end

pieces can be cut
slanted to allow for
Fig. 480.
Details of a
the
Fig. 481.
Box Lean-to Bird-house.
but
ready-made box, a triangular piece

to the
edges {A, Fig. 481).
will
slanted
roof,
you use a
if
have
to
be added
you make the box, cut the
If
center partition, which divides the box into two bird com-
partments, the same size as the end pieces; but for a box
already made, cut this piece
and then use
first
it
for a pat-
tern for laying out the triangular pieces to be added to the
The doorway
ends.
knife
in
each end can be cut with a jack-
this will be very easy to
pieces, for
one
do
if
the ends are in two
can be cut out
half of the hole
of the
edge
of
each piece (Fig. 481).

For wrens and other small birds the holes need not be
more than
any
1 inches in diameter
of the larger birds that
and
may
3 inches will
admit
be attracted to your
boxes.
After the ends of the box have been pieced out, nail a
strip to the
back
to
the roof board large
make
it
of the
enough so
it
same
height, then cut
will project
about
inch
11
BIRD-HOUSES
381
over the front and ends of the box, and nail
it
in place.
Fit the perch sticks into holes bored in the ends of the
box as shown
in Fig. 480.
may
This house
it
look better
will
be mounted upon a clothes-post, but

if
bracketed to a wall on account of
wooden bracket may be cut out
the style of
its roof.
and nailed
to the wall, or a
or 8
strip
than the box
longer
inches
may
be nailed to
the back and the ends of this

nailed to the wall (Fig. 480).
Another Box Bird -house
shown
in Fig. 482.
is
This
is
similar to a house which the
boys of some of the Chicago

public
structed
and placed
trees of the
addition
The
how
have
schools
of
conin
the
parks, with
the
pan
bath.
shows
clearly
the
illustration
Fig.
the back, sides, and roof
are cut
and
fitted together,
482.
Another
Box
Bird-
house with a Pan for Drinking
Water.
and how the water pan
is
bracketed out from the lowêr end of the back board, and
I
am
going to
let
you work out the
pieces according to
The lower
sizes for the various
what you think they ought
portion of the back board
it
be screwed
you omit the pan and

can be tied securely by running
or nailed to a wall or post, or
place the box in a tree,
may
to be.
if
382
a piece of clothes-line several times around
it
and the
tree
trunk.
cheese-box cover and one of the small kegs in which
mackerel and herring come to the market furnishes the

materials for
making
shown in Fig. 483. The keg

must be thoroughly washed out with hot water and either
Bird Tower such as
washing soda or
remove the
lye,
fish odor.
is
and should be painted
inside, to
Bore four openings in the side
of
the keg, and fasten a perch stick in a
small hole below each opening.
The illustration shows the keg mounted

upon the end
of a rug-pole,
cannot get one
if
you
the top of a
these,
of
but
clothes-post, or a piece of 2-by-4 set into
the
ground,
will
serve
purpose.
the
Nail the keg to the support, then set

top and nail
the cheese-box cover on

it
in place.
The lower perches should run through

the support as
and may be
shown
in the illustration,
of pieces of
broken
flagstaffs
or cabinet-maker's dowel sticks.
Fig. 487.
Figure 487 shows

Tin-
can Bird Tower.
Tin-can Bird Tower.
This
out of empty tomato cans.
is
made
Cut a hole
i^ inches in diameter in the side of three cans about

i^ inches
from the top; do not remove the piece
of tin,
'^^\
1
uMJ
House
BIRD-HOUSES
but bend
383
out as shown in Fig. 488 to form a perch.
it
Then remove
the top of one can (A, Fig. 489) and the
top and bottom of the other two
As
cans (B and C, Fig. 489).
the
ends are generally soldered on,

is
G6
it
only necessary to hold a can over
a flame until the solder melts,
then
The
knock them
(Fig.
off
cans are joined
and
488).
together by
means of two circular blocks of

wood { and /^ Fig. 489), which
the
divide
also
tower into three
compartments.
6-inch
tin
roof (D, Fig. 489),
fits
Fig. 488.
and a cork with
a piece of a hatpin
(G)
forms the
funnel
stuck
into
it
Fig. 489.
into the spout of the funnel
for a spire.
Tack
wooden
Figs. 488 and 489.
the edges of the cans to the

blocks,
of
to a small
in
in Fig. 487.
Fig. 487, fastening
each wire to the funnel rim and the other end

staple driven into the
the wires until the funnel

to the top of
is
firm.
upper block.
Twist
Nail the bottom can
whatever support you provide for the tower.
Paint the tin to prevent
The Bird Castle shown

built
shown
De-
of the Tin-can Bird
Tower shown
and wire the funnel
roof to the upper can as
one end
tails
it
from rusting.
in
Fig.
by the author a few years ago
484 was designed and

for his garden.
The
384
corner towers of this are built like the tower in Fig. 487.
The castle measures 12 inches long, 7 inches wide, 16
inches high at the highest point, and
the lowest point, and
is
made out
of
1 1
inches high at
box boards.
Figure 490 shows an end view of the castle with the

tower of the opposite end in position. First cut the two
end pieces H, and a third piece
same shape and

tion,
of the
size for a center parti-
then nail the front and back boards
/ and /
Cut the pieces
them.
to
dicated by the dotted lines
in-
to
fit
between the center partition and the
end
pieces,
opening
for
a loft floor.
Cut an
compartment
for each
in the
end pieces (Fig. 490).

Nail the roof boards
Fig a
o End View
of BirdCastle shown
inFig.484, with
Tower
One
and
P^^^^ ^^^
at the front (Fig. 490), then
fasten strip
mount
24
inches
long.
Build
towers at the two corners, and nail each can

corner of the castle as you put
The drawbridge
;
the
and
3I inches
in
ii inches wide
^ platform
^
^^gî^ ^
in Position.
to the base
((9,
it
up the
to
the
in place.
Fig. 490) measures 2\ inches
hinge one end to the base
strip,
by
and suspend
the other end by small brass chains fastened to the under
and to the front wall.

Each can of the towers has a circular opening cut in it,
but the long narrow windows in the towers and front wall
side
BIRD-HOUSES
walls should be painted white,

little
The
and the large doorway are painted.
of the castle
The
385
flag
and the roof green or
red.
and the weather-vane are mounted upon
and the corks are pushed into the

Set a cup in the platthe funnels (Fig. 490).
nails stuck into corks,
spouts of
The
form, at each end. for drinking water.
castle
be bracketed upon a wall as shown in Fig. 484, or
may
may
be mounted upon a post.
For the bird ark shown
Bird Ark.
in Fig. 485, three
cans are joined together in the same manner as those of

the towers are joined (Figs. 488 and 489).
Both ends
the center can are removed, but the bottom
end cans.
Cut a i|-inch hole
is left
of
on the
in the side of the center
same diameter through the bottom

do not remove the pieces of tin from
of each end can
the openings, but bend them out for perches as shown.
Cut the roof boards of the proper size to project over the
ends and sides of the cans, nail them together, and then
fasten them in place by driving nails through the boards
can and a hole
of the
;
into the connecting blocks
between the cans.
Fasten the ark between blocks upon a board platform,

then mount the platform upon a post support, and brace
the supports with
brackets
to
make
it
Run
secure.
several perch sticks through the brackets, as shown.
Wall Bracket Bird Ark (Fig. 491).
same way
structed in the
the shape of
sticks
is
shown
is
as the ark described above,
the brackets
clearly
This
and arrangement
in the illustration.
of
con-
and
perch
3^^
House and Swing made out of a wooden
and bracketed
to a wall as
Fig. 491.
shown
in Fig. 486, so that
its
A Wall Bracket Bird Ark.
handle hangs down and forms a swing,

little
pail inverted
is
an attractive
house for the back yard.
Make
the vertical partition to divide the pail into two
compartments, and cut a circular piece

the top.
board to
of
fit
Nail the roof board to the bottom of the
cut an opening into each compartment, and
fit
in
pail,
a small
wood beneath each opening for a platform.

a short block of wood to the wall where the house
block of
Nail
is
to go, for the pail to rest on,
the proper height above
it
and
nail a
longer strip at
to nail the roof board to.
The Hanging House shown
in
Fig. 492
may
be
made
from a 25-pound or a i2j-pound white lead keg, which

can be procured from any painter.
Cut the square roof
board wide enough to project 3 or 4 inches over the sides

of the keg, and bore two holes in the proper positions for
BIRD-HOUSES
the wire handles to run through.
have a perch fastened below
means
shown
of
two cords
it.
387
Each opening should

Suspend the house by
as
in the illustration.
Birds seek the protection of
trees,
roof eaves,
and covered ways during

storms, and
Shelter
shown
in
on the plan
Fig.
493 will
make your yard
help to
a popular resort at such
You
times.
also will find
Fig. 492.
A Hanging House.
that the birds will fly to
these perches to dry and
preen their feathers after
taking their morning

baths.
Figure 494 shows one

of the two uprights which
support the perches and
roof.
These may be cut
out of strips 3 or 4 inches

wide.
'
Miter the top ends
as shown,
that
is,
cut off
Figs. 493 and 494.
A Shelter.
the two corners at an angle of 45 degrees;

holes
and
below the top and
the
about 3 inches
6 inches below that again, and then
inch in diameter,
bore
388
slip a piece of
keep them
broom-handle through two of the holes to

and nail the lower ends to opposite
in line,
sides of a clothes-post, or to a post set into the
ground
especially for the purpose.
The long perch
sticks are pieces of broom-handle,
and
the small ones are cabinet-maker's dowel sticks, broken
The
diameter.
bored through
latter
about f inch in
small perch sticks are run through holes
or sticks
flagstaffs,
the
whittled
round,
broom-handle, after the
pieces of
have been slipped through
the
holes
in
the
uprights.
Cut the
roof
boards about i8 inches long, one 12
inches in width, and the other as
much
to allow for the lapping of edges.
wide piece to the edge

short
wooden
spire
and
of
less as is
necessary
Nail the face of the
the narrow one, and whittle a
stick
it
into a hole bored in the
peak; then set the roof on the end of the uprights, shift
it
until its projection at the
ends
is
the same, and drive a
couple of nails through the roof boards into the uprights

to hold
it
in position.
"
^^^^^\(4hi^^^
.
j_j_
CHAPTER XXVI
HOUSES FOR PETS
\V\-
\\V--llh-\\\^///
Although
the
boy does not have as good an
city
opportunity to keep pets as his country cousin has, he
manages
generally
own
to
a dog, unless he lives in an
apartment building, and often there
is
space in a wood-
shed or a barn in which he can keep a few pets such

as rabbits, white rats, fancy mice,
The
of a
size
and pigeons.
dog-house depends upon the
dog and see what he looks

kennel but if you get a pup
the dog, so get your
you build
his
breed, be sure to
make
like before
of a large
the house plenty large
to allow for his growth, otherwise
you
will
or
Dog-house
may
be
may be
built
up
enough
soon have to
remodel the house or trade the dog for one that
size of
will
fit.
constructed out of packing-boxes
of
any boards you can
find about
Figure 495 shows a well-planned house of

size, with a feature which is too frequently
the place.
medium
omitted in building one

the house
is
provision
set directly
usually damp, for there
dry out after a
rain,
for ventilation.
upon the ground, the

is
little
or no chance for
but by raising
389
it
If
floor is
it
to
a few inches as
390
shown
in the illustration
and boring a number
by mounting
of holes
Fig. 495.
it
upon a
base,
through the base, the
floor
A Dog-house.
(See working-drawings on page 89.)
never comes in contact with the ground, and a constant

circulation of
will
air,
which
will pass in
and out of the
holes,
keep the ground underneath dry.
Figure 92 on page 89
drawings for
this
shows
dog-house,
it
complete
having been taken for
an example in explaining the proper method

out a sheet of
working
details.
working-
for laying
Of course you may
alter
the dimensions on the drawings to suit your needs.

First
construct a frame for the base
of
the house,
then cut the floor boards of the proper size and nail
them
to
the
top
edge
of
the four walls in sections,
the
base.
Next construct
making the two
sides alike
HOUSES FOR PETS
391
and fastening the

boards together with battens as shown on the workMark out the arched opening on the
ing-drawings.
and the front and rear wall
and
front wall,
side of
it,
nail
alike,
a batten across the boards each
as shown, to hold together the ends of the
When
boards which are to be cut.
the sections have
been prepared, fasten their ends together and toe-nail
bottom edges
their
The
roof
may
to the floor of the base.
be made of boards alone, or of boards
covered with shingles,

roofing-paper.
If
tin,
or
some form
you shingle the
of
composition
roof, lay the
boards
lengthwise of the house, as shown on the working-drawings
then lay the shingles on in the same way that
they are put on any roof, starting at the eaves and lay-
ing each succeeding row

shingles
be
split
with 4 or 5 inches of the

exposed to the wêather. The shingles may
up
into
narrow
pieces,
and the lap may be
creased so as to leave 2 or 3 inches exposed,

to
make them
of smaller
proportions.
if
in-
you want
Nail a ridge-
board along each side of the roof at the peak, to cover

the ends of
the shingles
and make the roof tight
at
that point.
The dog-house should
be given two coats of paint and
be repainted once a year to keep
The Rabbit-hutch shown
in
it
in condition.
Figs.
496 and 497 may
be constructed out of a box or built out of new boards,
whichever
is
the
more
easily obtained.
The box should
be about 4 feet long, 14 inches wide, and 20 inches deep.
392
If
you make
this box, first prepare the
them
cut the side boards and nail
Fig. 496.
Fig.
end
pieces, then
to the ends,
and then
Open.
497- Closed.
Figs. 496 and 497.
A Rabbit-hutch.
cut the bottom boards and nail them to the edges of the
end and side boards.

box
is
turned upon
its
As shown
in
the illustration, the
side so the top will
form the front
of the hutch.
HOUSES FOR PETS
The
front
is
covered with wire netting tacked to
a frame, and the frame

will
also
is
and
inches
use strips about
The ends
inch thick.
it
the frame equal to the
width about
in
than the width of the box

i
hinged in place so that
Make
form a door.
length of the box
wide and
393
of
less
inches
the strips
be notched and fitted together as shown, or they
may
may
be mitered, like the corners of picture-frames.

Galvanized Poultry-netting
the
is
material
probably
easiest for miost boys to procure for covering the
front of the hutch.
This
12 inches to 72 inches,
inch,
and 2-inch mesh
formed by the crossed
is
made
is
widths ranging from
and can be had

(the
in i-inch, ij-
meshes are the openings
The
wires).
plenty small enough for large

size
in
open
rabbits,
but the
best for breeding hutches, as the
can crawl through larger openings.
mesh
large
little
is
i-inch
fellows
Poultry-netting has
an hexagonal-shaped mesh.
Twist Wire Cloth
is
another form of covering which
very good for the purpose.
Its
is
meshes are somewhat
similar to those of poultry netting, but are
inch long
and ^ inch wide.

Wire Cloth has a square mesh like the wire used for
door and window screens.
The heavier grades are
suitable for rabbit-hutches
Buy
and are often used.
small ^letting staples with which to put on the
wire netting or cloth.
After covering the frame with the netting or cloth,
394
hinge
it
to the top
2-inch steel butts.

of the
box and
directly
hutch with three 2-by-
edge
of the
Then
cut a strip of just the length
inches wide, and hinge
below the frame with a pair
Screw a hook
into each
end
bottom
to the
it
of 2-by-2-inch butts.
of the strip,
and fasten a
screw-eye or nail into each end of the box in the proper
hook
place for the
to catch
on
Cut a couple
to.
of
wooden buttons, bore a hole through the center of each

large enough for a screw to slip through, and screw them
to the
bottom hinge-strip about 12 inches from the ends

frame closed (Fig.
for button catches to hold the wire
The
497).
hinge-strip
is
provided to keep the sawdust,
or other floor covering, from dropping out of the hutch
every time the front

so
it
may
is
the old sawdust.

nail a strip of
hook
it is
hinged
in place
be dropped as shown in Fig. 496 when clean-
ing out the hutch, to
opened, and
make
To hold
wood
to
edge
of the
in the
easier the
work
of
removing
open the front while cleaning,
one end
of the hutch,
and fasten
frame and a screw-eye in the
proper position in the stick for
it
to
hook
into, as
shown
in Fig. 496.
The hutch
keep
it
should set up on something high enough to
at least
18 inches above the ground or floor, as
rabbits are very sensitive to dampness.
may be
the hutch may
Brackets
fastened to a wall at the proper height, or
be placed upon an overturned packing-box.

If
you intend
Breeding Hutch, in addition to this hutch which will
to raise rabbits,
you should have
HOUSES FOR PETS
395
then be used to keep the male rabbit in after the baby

rabbits have arrived.
The breeding hutch may be
con-
structed out of a box of the same size as that used for the
hutch just described, but one end must be partitioned

off for a nest,
and a doorway
inches wide and 6 inches
high must be cut through the partition to connect

the main runway
of the hutch.
The
nest
it
with
must be kept
dark, so, instead of running the wire front along the full
length,
tition.
tion.
it
must be stopped
off
upon a
line with the par-
In place of the wire, hinge a board over this por-
This provides a doorway by which the nest can
be reached from the outside.
The Two-story Rabbit-hutch shown in Fig. 498
Fig. 498.
A Two-story Rabbit-hutch with Yard
is
Beneath.
made
396
portable so
it
may be taken
severe weather, and
end
is
to a place of shelter
provided with a handle at either
Then by
convenience in carrying.
for
during
stretching
wire netting or wire cloth around the supports, which
should be
8 inches or
provided in which your
more
"
bunnies
about for a while each day.

ient place to put
If
you can
inches
find a
wide,
Remove
them
good playground
high, a
"
can be allowed to run
This yard
is
also a conven-
you clean out the hutch.
in while
packing-box i8 inches deep,
and 4
is
8 or 20
that for the hutch.
feet long, use
the boards from one side of the box (which will
be the front of the hutch), then rip up two of the boards

,
removed,^ into pieces 3 or 4 inches wide, and nail these
one
to the front,
Fig. 499.
at the top of the
box (A, Fig. 499) and
The Two-story Rabbit-hutch before the Roof has been put On.
the other at the bottom B.
back boards,
mark out
Upon
the inside of the
a 14-inch square feed and clean-
out door 6 inches from one end, and a 6-by-io-inch door-
way
to the
compartments
3 inches
from the other end.
Before cutting out these openings, nail a vertical batten
HOUSES FOR PETS
397
across the boards each side of the Hnes to hold the cut
ends together.
Cut enough boards

second-story
side,
floor,
of the
proper length to make the
batten them together
upon the under
and cut a 5-by-io-inch stairway opening about 18
inches from one end, and in the center of the width of
and back of the box

midway between the top and bottom (C, Fig. 499). Then
prepare two partitions with an arched doorway about 5
the floor
fasten this to the ends
inches wide and 6 inches high cut in each, and fasten
one in each story 12 inches away from the compart-
ment end
hutch (Fig. 499).

gular pieces and nail one to the top
of
the
the
of
Cut three
of
trian-
each end piece
hutch for gable-ends, and one to the
top
of
partition D{Ê, Fig. 499).
Cut a piece
long for
it
to
stairs,
of
board
inches wide and about 18 inches
and tack a number
of small cross-pieces to
keep the rabbits from slipping while running up
Hinge the
and down.
stairs to the
second floor with a
small hinge, or a piece of leather, and leave the lower end

loose so
it
may
be raised up out of the wây every time
you clean out the
first story.
Board up the front
and nail a vertical strip

and the bottom rail
of the hutch.
of the
of the
compartments
same width
B (Fig.
(Fig, 498),
as the top rail
499) to the opposite end
Cover the remainder of the front with wire
netting or cloth, and tack

of the wire to conceal the
wooden
strips
over the edges
rough ends (Fig. 498).
398
Make
the door to the compartments out of a single
and the feed door out of several pieces battened

Hinge the doors in place, and provide them
together.
board,
with hasps and padlocks,
any danger
of curious
ones opening the hutch while you are away.
Leather
may
strips
if
there
is
be substituted for iron hinges, and wooden
buttons or hooks
may
be used in place of hasps,
if
the
hutch does not require a padlock.
For breeding purposes the stairway may be omitted;

then the doe and her young can be kept by themselves
in
one
story; but
it is
better to build separate one-story
breeding hutches.
The Rabbit Yard. As you must know, if you have had

any experience with raising them, rabbits are great burrowers and will dig under the walls of any inclosure you
can build for them, unless you provide a floor or carry

the walls
down below
their reach.
keeping them within a small yard
The
is
best
method
for
to extend the wire
netting with which you cover the framework about i8
inches below the surface of the ground.
After laying out
the lines of the framework of the yard, dig a trench on
all
four sides to the required depth, then set up the four
corner posts, which should be long enough to stand at

least
8 inches above the ground, and nail on the top
pieces, the baseboards,
and the
Then
side braces.
the wire around the framework and tack
it
in place; at
the gate end cut the wire off at grade and fasten
baseboard.
stretch
Construct the gate as shown, cover
it
it
to the
on the
HOUSES FOR PETS

outside with netting, hinge
and provide
If
it
it
to
one
399
of the
with a hook.
the ground where you build the yard
some sod and plant
it
raising
of
white
profitable business for
is
bare, dig
up
inside of the inclosure, so your
rabbits will have grass to play
The
corner posts,
in.
rats
and fancy mice
boys, and
time and an expenditure
of
it
is
requires very
little
only a dollar for a pair
to start with.
Cage for White Rats or fancy mice should be con-
structed out of a box about 14 inches deep, 14 inches
Fig. 500.
good form
Remove one
side of the
wide, and 3 feet long.

in Fig. 500.
cured
(this side of the
box
inside,
box
will
of
cage
is
shown
box you have pro-
be the front of the cage)
two strips 3 inches wide by the length

and fasten them midway between the
(Fig. 501), then cut

of the
Cage for White Rats.
400
Hinged Top-
^\TI^///////////A\\\\\\\\V^
i^
Fig. 502-
FiG. 501.
Fig. 501.
View
of
Nest Boxes and

Fig. 502.
Inside
of
White Rat Cage showing Arrangement
of
Stairs.
Section through the Hinged Top.
top and bottom of the box, one along the back and the
other along the front.
Make
a Couple of Nest Boxes as
inches deep
shown
in Fig. 503, as
wide, 5 inches wide (inside), and 4

divide them into two compart(inside)
long as the cage
is
ments each as shown, and cut a doorway

in
i-J
inches
diameter into each
compartment.
board to
fit
Cut a
the top of
each box for a cover,
and bend a piece

Fig. 504.
^-^^-zir:^^^
-Nest Box
503.
White Rat Cage.

Corner of Front Screen showing
Fig. 504.
Frame and Attachment of Wire.
Fig. 503.
for
of
wire into the shape of

x
^ j^^^j^ /pj
^^^
^'
\ ^ "^
fasten it in the proper
,
HOUSES FOR PETS

position to
to a short nail or screw driven into
hook on
Fasten the nest boxes
the edge of the cover (Fig. 501).
on top
of strips
401
and B, and tack a
strip to
each end of
the cage just above the nest box cover to hold
down
the
back edge (Fig. 501). When the cover is unhooked,

can be slipped from under this strip and removed.
Make
it
the stairs out of a piece of board 3 inches wide,
tack cross-pieces to
it
about i^ inches apart, and fasten
it
A and to the floor, in the center of the cage.

Strips A and B, together with the platforms in front of
to strip
the nest boxes, furnish
An Elevated " Race-track " which your rats or mice will

make good use of, especially the frisky young ones who
love to chase one another about as well as any children do.
Ordinary screen wire cloth
is
the most satisfactory
covering for the front of the cage, and the best method
on
of putting this
is
by making a wooden frame out
of
strips 3 inches wide,
with the corners mitered and nailed
together (Fig. 504),
and tacking the wire
face of this.
The frame can be
cage (Fig. 500).
This
is
to the inside
nailed or screwed to the
a better
method than
that of
tacking the wire over the edges of the box, as the wire
can be stretched tighter and looks neater, and, what
more important,
it
between the tacks and providing the

to
gnaw away
the space
The
is
is
prevents the wire from bulging out

rats
with a chance
the edge of the box at those points until
big enough to escape through.
top of the cage should project about \ inch over
the ends and 2 inches over the front.

strip across the top at the back,
First nail a hinge-
then batten together the
remaining boards, and hinge them to this
By
402
strip (Fig. 502).
driving a staple into the under side of the cover and
another into the screen frame, so the two will come

gether side by side
the cage
may be
Paint your
when
the top
is
to-
closed (Fig. 502),
padlocked.
Hutches and Cages on the outside, and
whitewash them on the

Floor Covering.
inside.
Cover the
floors
with a thick layer of
sawdust, which you can get from your grocer; and clean
out the hutches and cages twice a week, and replace the
old sawdust with fresh, so as to keep conditions sanitary.
Place hay in the breeding
compartments for the nests.

Drinking
Receptacles,
Get a small earthenware

dish for drinking
This
stand
will
upon the
floor
water.
solidly
and not be
so likely to overturn as a
cup, bowl, or other receptacle with
a small base.
Use a very shallow dish

for the rat-cage.
Fig. 505.
one shown
box.
A Pigeon-cote.
in
Divide
Fig. 505
it
into
j^
may
two
Pigeon-cote
be made
stories,
like
the
out of a packing-
by fastening a
floor
HOUSES FOR PETS

midway between
the
bottom and
story into two compartments.
top,
403
and divide each
Nail the cover boards to
the box, fasten a triangular piece to the top edge of each
end
to
form the gables, and then cut and
boards in place.
the
roof
fastening
may
The
nail the roof
space between the box cover and
be divided into two compartments by
a triangular piece similar to the gable-ends
to the cover boards, before nailing
on the
roof.
Cut openings through the gable-ends and the sides

compartments, and fasten perches
below them.
of the box, into the
The
pigeon-cote
ported upon a post.
may be
bracketed to a wall or sup-
^^jv=iH^M^HX:\
!!-
LTi
CHAPTER XXVII
A CASTLE CLUB-HOUSE AND
HOME-MADE ARMOR
\V--ilh-\\\^///
The
\\\
castle club-house
shown
506 is an idea
which the author has been holding in reserve for you
for a good many years, for he originated it and carried it
in Fig.
out on similar lines in his city back yard
The work
is
not
difficult,
spend upon
ceases the
it.
moment
a lad.
and the plan may be simplified
how much
or enlarged upon according to

to
when
boy's interest in
it
is
time you care

a thing often
perfected to the point where
improvement is impossible, therefore any piece

work which will suggest alterations and additions
from time to time is more acceptable than one which
further
of
does not.
It
can be said for the castle club-house that
many schemes besides those described in this

which may be developed by the builders, and
there are
chapter
which
will
Material.
probably suggest themselves.
As
the castle
may
be built in the corner
the back yard, the material for two walls
and the lumber required

cost very
tions.
little,
as
you
be saved,
for the rest of the building will
will see
The framework,
may
of
wîth
404
by looking
at the illustra-
the exception of the corner
iJtM^.
.i.:-i-
3111
Fig. 506.
jli
"t
The Castle Club House.
CASTLE CLUB-HOUSE AND HOME-MADE ARMOR
405
built of boards, the corner turrets of barrels,
and
post,
is
the sides of box boards and scraps of
sorts of lengths
all
lumber can
Second-hand
and widths.
generally be
bought very cheap wherever a frame building
down
torn
new
material.
Before starting work
what you
just
is
it
best to do a
and then
will need,
have enough
you
if
find that
you
possibility of procuring more,
matter to cut
you
will
down
it
sort out
will not,
ground
upon which
fit
it
Mark out
will
and there
the dimensions
is
and
take a 6-foot piece of 4-by-4-inch

of
2-by-4-inch
upon the
upon the
side for plates
framework (A and B, Fig.

stuff
spiked
stuff,
or
and
together,
plates at the corner for a corner post
D and to
and brace it temporarily.

Cut uprights
between the fence rails, if the rails happen
the inside face of the fence, and nail

directly in
line with
the
horizontal boards /% G,
corner post
C and
F and G about 8
will
them
corner post.
H, and
/,
and
the fence uprights
to be
upon
to the fence
Next, cut
of C,
D, and E.
be necessary only in case boards
the
them to the
and E, placing
nail
inches above the ground-plates, and
and /even with the tops
you
if
the dimensions of the castle so that
to rest the wall
Then
two pieces
C,
the
then be an easy
will
and lay a board along the end
stand
all of
be able to complete the job.
The Framework.
507).
figuring
little
boards you have succeeded in getting and see
no
being
or remodeled, and this will answer the pur-
pose as well as
on
is
Boards^ and
H and / extend

above the top
M, N,
L,
Cut uprights
of the fence, as in Fig. 507.
P, and
(9,
7 feet 6 inches
407
and
long,
nail
them to plates A and B, and to horizontal pieces F, G,

H, and /, 1 1 inches in from the corners formed by boards
H, /, /, and K, Cut uprights R and vS' 7 feet long, and
fasten them in the center of the front wall 2 feet apart
for the entrance jambs, and set upright T in the center
of the end wall for an intermediate support.
in Fig. 507, are 4-inch
The Floor Joists, marked
boards placed on edge, and are fitted between the fence
and horizontal piece G, If there isn't a rail on the in-
side face of the fence at the proper height to rest the
ends of the
joists on, nail a horizontal piece to the
fence
for the purpose.
Before putting on the wall siding, get three barrels for
The Corner Turrets.

from these, and
barrels
tin
from
nail
Be sure that no hoops are missing
each stave to each hoop to keep the
falling apart.
about 3 by
inches in
Cut a number
size,
of pieces of
and tack them
to the in-
side edge of the tops of the barrels, about 3 inches apart

(Fig. 509), to
form the battlements
on boards H,
/, /,
then set the barrels
and K, between uprights Z, M, N, O,
Py and Q, and nail them to these uprights (Fig. 507).

Board up the Walls regardless of the openings, with
the exception of the entrance, around which the boards
may be
fitted,
and cut the openings afterwards.
boards so that each end

right,
will strike the
Cut the
center of an up-
and use up the short pieces wherever
it is
possible
4o8
to
do
so, in
order to save the long pieces for places
When
quiring them.
re-
you are ready
To cut the Openings, mark them out upon the walls and,
about ^ inch outside of the lines, nail a vertical strip
across the boards which are to be cut to hold them together (Fig. 511).
main
The upper row
and those
walls,
of
openings on the
in the turrets, are painted
on the
wood.
The Roof.
ing,
it
will
To
support the upper end of the roof board-
be necessary to nail the horizontal piece
Fto
Fig. 508.
How the Roof should be put On.

Fig. 509. Construction of the Turret Battlements.
Fig. 508.
uprights
My R,
at the sides
diud
X\
required.
should be
S,
you
and N, even with the tops

will
have
of
R and
and around the barrels extra blocking

Figure 508 shows
laid.
^S";
to fasten the diagonal pieces
First place
how
the
one layer
of
roof
will
be
boarding
boards about
409
inch apart, as shown, then cover the spaces between with
another layer.
The
best
way
to
ings around the barrels and walls
and tack a
and
barrels,
is
water-tight join-
to get
some
and daub
cannot get the roofing-paper and
it
with
paper
tar
along the walls, lap
strip of it to the roof
to the walls
make
up on
it
But
tar.
if
you
the cracks
tar, stuff all
with newspaper, using a pointed stick with which to push

the paper
lap
in,
and then tack pieces
them up on
to the walls
Roof leaks a
If the
and
little after
of tin over
them and
barrels.
you have finished
it,
do
not worry; the castle will dry out quickly after a storm,
inasmuch as the
floor is
beneath for the
of space
The Battlement.
high
off the
air to circulate.
This
made by
is
board 6 inches square to the
shown
The
in Fig. 508.
ground with plenty
walls,
nailing pieces of
above the
roof,
turret battlements have
as
been
described.
The
space beneath the floor
is
plenty large for
Secret Treasure Vaults, without which, of course, the

castle
would not be complete.
the floor
joists,
vaults in
which
as
shown
in
Boxes fastened between

Fig. 507, will
to store the castle's " gold,"
make good
and the
floor
boards over these should be battened together in sections

so they
may
be removed to gain access to the vaults.
The Drawbridge should be

the entrance, and
its
inch larger
all
be fastened together with battens (Fig. 511).

of
around than
boards should run horizontally and
Cut a piece
broom-handle 8 inches longer than the width
of the
4IO
entrance {A, Fig. 510), and
nail
it
to the lower
edge
the drawbridge, then
of
make
a socket for each end of the
broom-handle to
by
nailing two blocks {B and
set in,
i.
C,
Fig.
10. Sockets
for the
Drawbridge,
Fig.
510) to the wall
each side of the entrance,
and nailing another block {D) over these

broom-handle
to hold the
in place.
To counterbalance the Drawbridge, get two clothes-line

pulleys,
four
sc rew-eyes,
and about 18
feet of clothesline.
Bore
hole
through
each batten of
the drawbridge
near
the
end
{A, Fig. 511),

cut two slots in
the castle wall
above the entrance {B, Fig.

511), screw the
Fig. 511.
pulleys
into
^
the lower edge
-^
Fig. 511.
How
fig. 512.
Details of Counterbalance.
the Drawbridge
is
Counterbalanced.
Fat
of the horizontal board
C,
411
and two screw-eyes into
the ceiling at E.
For the counterbalance take two flour sacks, potato

sacks, or two pieces of carpet sewed together in the form
of bags; fill them full of sand or gravel, and tack the top of
each around a block of wood, in one end of which a screweye has been screwed (Z?, Fig. 512). Cut the clothes-line
in halves tie a knot on one
end of the pieces; pull them
;
through holes
as far as
the knotted ends will per-
mit; run them around the
ends
drawbridge,
the
of
up through
slots
B, over
C through the
screw-eyes D on the counter-
pulleys
balances, and through screw-
eyes
pull
up the drawbridge
far as
(Fig. 511).
will go,
it
counterbalances
Then
as
lower the
on
the
ropes until they
come within
about 6 inches
of the floor,
and
tie
eyes
E\
the ropes to screwFig. 513.
cut off the ends of
the rope.
Windlass
for
raising the
Drawbridge.
Windlass
stituted
Fig. 513.
for
may be
the
sub-
counter-
(You may make and use one of these instead

of the counterbalances shown in Fig. 511.)
Fig. 5 14.
Shaft
for
stovepipe Drum.
412
balances,
if
you wish
to
make
Figure
one.
simple scheme, requiring a section of
shows a
stovepipe, a broom1
Make
handle, a grocery box, and a few boards.

for the stovepipe out of the
a shaft
broom-handle; cut two disks
equal to the inside diameter of the stovepipe, bore a hole
through the center

handle to
slip
shaft (Fig.
of
Slip the shaft through
and tack the metal
the completed
nail the
each large enough for the broom-
through, and fasten these disks to the
514).
stovepipe,
Mount
of
the section
wooden
to the
drum on two board
uprights,
them
and
lower ends of the uprights to the ends of the
Construct a crank for each end of the
box.
disks.
in place as
shaft, fasten
shown, and provide a loose pin
to
run
through a hole bored through each crank and each upright, as a
means
for locking the windlass
bored through each upright
will
make
the windlass at any point desired.
it
several holes
possible to lock
Tie the ends of the
ropes leading in from the drawbridge to the

windlass, and fasten
them
drum
of the
to the metal so they will not
slip.
As
noted in the
illustration, the
back
of the
should be nailed to the rear wall of the castle
box base
also con-
nect the upper portions of the uprights to the walls with

cross-pieces, to brace them.
Moat.
for a moat,
Dig
a trench around the outside of the base
and your
Home-made Armor.
armor with which
castle will be completed.
Of course you
to dress
up
will
want some
like a real knight, so
Fig. 515.
A Boy Knight
with His Home-Made Armor.

have invented for you a home-made helmet, a
shield,
413
and
a sword, which, with the addition of a pair of gauntlets
and a sweater
(this resembles,
coats of chain mail), will
somewhat, the texture
make
of
a fairly complete outfit
Figure 515 shows a boy knight equipped with
this
home-
made armor.
The Helmet.
Get an old worn-out derby hat (Fig. 516)

remove the brim, sweat-band, and ribbon, make slashes i
Fig. 524
V^^^
Fig. 520.
Figs. 516 to 524.
Fig. 523.
Fig. 521.
Details for making the Helmet.
inch in length in the edge of the
felt
from the center
of
each side around to the front, and bend up the pieces be-
tween the slashes (Fig. 517); cut two vizors out
of card-
414
board (Fig. 518), and glue one of these to the tops of the
felt flaps and one to the under sides (Figs. 517
turned-up
For the cape or neck portion
and 519).
cut a piece of cardboard to the shape
of the helmet,
shown
in the dia-
gram, and slash the lower edge (Fig. 520); bend this
piece of cardboard as in Fig. 521, and bend out the pieces
between the
slashes, then
coat"
about
top of the cardboard with glue, place
hat and press

(Fig. 523).
it
against the
felt
2
it
inches of the
inside of the
until the glue has set
Prepare the two crown ridge-pieces (Fig.
522) out of cardboard, glue the pieces together back to

back, and glue the flaps to the crown of the hat (Fig. 523).
Cover the helmet with tin-foil this can be obtained

from a florist, or from the wrappings of chocolate, etc.
;
Glue the
try to
will
tin-foil to
the
felt
and cardboard, and do not
smooth out the wrinkles too
particularly, for these
give the effect of rich carvings such as you will see
on ancient helmets. Figure 524 shows our helmet.

The Shield. Make a bow out of a narrow stick, bending
it
so there will be a distance of 2 inches between
the center of the stick and
the bowstring (Fig. 525),
then cut the shield out of a piece of heavy cardboard

to the
dimensions given
bow.
Cut two blocks
of
in Fig.
526 and tack
wood 4 inches
long,
it
to the
and fasten
a piece of twisted wire to the ends of each with screws

(Fig. 527) for the
arm and hand
straps;
wrap the wire
with cord (Fig. 528), and tack the shield to these blocks.
Remove
the bowstring and cut off the ends of the
bow

even with the cardboard;
tin-foil
then
415
cover the shield with
or silver paper.
The Sword.
Cut
this
about 3 feet long, with a blade
i^ inches wide, as shown in Fig. 529.
inch hole through the
stick, 6
First bore a J-
inches from one end, then
whittle the handle round and bevel off the sides of the
blade until the edges are sharp.
Drive a piece of iron
rod of the size marked through the hole in the handle,

for the hilt of the sword; then cover the hilt, handle,
the entire blade with tin-foil or silver paper.
Fig. 528.
Fig. 529.
Fig. 526.
Figs. 525 to 528.
Details of Shield.
Fig.
529. Sword.
and
!^;#4biM^H^^^:\
J__L
CHAPTER XXVIII
A BOYS' BAND OF HOMEMADE INSTRUMENTS
\V--ilh^\V-/lf
The neighborhood
\\\
parade would be headed by a boys'
band, no doubt, were
it
not for the lack of instruments.
This need suggested to the author the idea of devising
home-made cornet, trombone, bass horn, fife, and bass

drum shown in the illustrations upon the following pages.
They are imitation instruments, to be sure, but they will
the
make
plenty of noise, and music, too,
The
handled.
if
they are properly
notes are produced on the horns by the
and not by the manipulation of

keys, so it will be easy for any boy who can carry tunes
by ear to play them without having to do very much prac-
variation of the voice,
ticing.
If
you are not familiar with the tones
struments, you can soon
become so by
of the in-
listening to the
playing of a real band.
The
entire
couple of days,
band equipment can be completed in a

if each boy makes his own instrument, and
the material should cost but very
little,
as
much of it can be
found about the house most likely something that you

;
will
need can be supplied by one of the other boys, in exchange

for
which you can give him something that he wants.

416
Fig. 531.
Fig. 532.
Figs. 530-532.
The Trombone.
Fig. 530.
The Cornet.
The Bass Horn.
Home-Made Instruments for a Boys' Band.
1
I
A BOYS' BAND OF HOME-MADE INSTRUMENTS
Procure a quart-size tin funnel
The Cornet (Fig. 530).

for the bell of the cornet
|-
417
and several
feet of
round stick
inch in diameter for tubing; for this some old flagstaffs
can be used, or cabinet-maker's J-inch dowel sticks can be

purchased for a few cents a
can be formed
tration (Fig. 533), or
is
shown
by bending a piece
Fig. 533.
to
The curved tubing
stick.
rubber tubing as
of
in the illus-
of tree
branch
Details of Cornet.
the proper shape (Fig.
538).
The
lengths
the
of
marked on the diagram, and the pieces

the order in which they should be assem-
straight tubing are
are lettered in
bled.
If
rubber tubing
is
used for the ends, run several
pieces of heavy wire through

(see dotted lines
C and
it
to give
//, Fig. 533).
it
proper stiffness
Bore holes
in the
ends of the wooden tubing where indicated, and whittle
them and the rubber tubing. Fasten the pegs

place with glue, and fasten the other pieces with brads.
pegs to
in
fit
Drive rug tacks (Fig. 533) into the ends of the key tubes
for keys.
A " kazoo " is necessary for a mouthpiece.
This
little
instrument,
shown
in the illustration, will cost
a dime, and can be purchased from any music dealer
he does not carry
it
in stock,
he can procure
it
for
if
you
in
4i8
Fasten the kazoo in place by means
a few days' time.

of a
wooden peg
will
it
then
as you have stopped up
end
its
be necessary to puncture three holes in the top
as shown.
When
and mouthpiece have

been put together, procure some tin-foil from empty
cigar boxes, buy some from a florist, or get several 5-cent
the tubing, keys,
bell,
sheets of silver paper at a stationery store.

foil,
Cut the
tin-
or silver paper into short pieces, and paste these
around the tubing;
piece with a clean rag to remove
work
pend
carefully, as the
largely
in place, rub
all
wrinkles.
appearance of the cornet
each
Do
the
will de-
upon the neatness with which you cover
Fig. 534.
The Trombone
funnel for
it
after sticking
its
Details of the Trombone.
(Fig.
bell
it.
531)
and
requires
kazoo
for
a two-quart tin
a
mouthpiece.
Figure 534 shows the details for the main portion of the
trombone. The large tubing is made of a broom-handle,
the smaller tubing of |-inch sticks, and the curved ends
as described for the Cornet,
The
419
pieces are lettered in the order in which they
should be put together, and their lengths are nriarked.
Bore
all
shown
the holes
or indicated
by dotted
the proper size for the smaller tubing to
fit
lines, of
Cut
into.
and b in one piece, and do not separate them until after

you have bored a hole in the end 2 inches deep, which
will run entirely through b and \ inch into the end of B.
The
idea
is
to hinge
eye in the end of
Cover the end
between
G should
of tube
and B.
The
screw-
be \ inch in diameter, inside.

glue, run it through b,
H with
through the screw-eye in G, and into the hole
in
Wrap
in the
the end of the kazoo with paper, and glue
hole bored in the end of
shown, to
let
/.
Make
a gimlet hole in
536 the
first
step
Fig. 539.
strips
in
making
it.
slide,
and
Cut a number
Fig. 535.
Figs. 535 to 539.
of
/ as
out the tone from the kazoo.
Figure 535 shows the completed trombone

Fig.
it
B.
of
Details of Trombone Slide.
newspaper about
3 inches
wide and a
\-
inch stick about 30 inches long; wrap the stick with a
dry strip of paper, then on top of this wrap strips soaked

in paste,
and gradually build up the tubing
until
it
is
as
420
thick as the broom-handle tubing (Fig. 537).
Let the
tubing dry thoroughly, then pull out the stick and prepare
The curved end O (Fig, 535)

out of a tree branch (Fig. 538) or out of
another tube similarly.
may
be
made
rubber tubing (Fig. 533).

Fasten
between
and
A^with brads (Fig. 535). Screw a screw-eye i inch in
diameter (inside) into each end of
(Fig. 539),
and
slip
them over the paper tubing (Fig. 535). Whenall the pieces
have been put together properly,
cover the tubing with silver paper.
The Bass Horn (Fig. 532) is made

out of a brass phonograph horn
and a piece
If
of
an old garden-hose.
you haven't an old phonograph
from which you can take the horn,
you can probably pick up a horn
at
a second-hand store for half a dollar.
The
length of this horn will deter-
mine the length of the hose tubing,

also that of A and B, but you can
follow Fig. 540 in working out the
Fig. 540.
Detail of Bass
Horn.
proportions of the instrument.
horn shown in the
28 inches long, and the garden-hose
The
detail
E, F, G,
is
The
illustration
is
7 feet 6 inches long.
shows how the hose should be fastened at C, D,

and /, and that rug tacks are driven into the
//",
ends of tubes/, K, and L.
produced by the
The full tone of the horn can be
voice, as the
hose tubing
is
unobstructed.
As you probably know,
421
whistling upon the edge of a
card makes a pretty fair imitation of
A
fife
Fife
shown
we
in
will
use this same principle in making our
Cut a triangular piece
Fig. 541.
of tin,
bend up one corner, and

tack
it
through
this corner
Fig. 541.
to a stick 13 inches long,
from one end.
inches
Fife.
the edge of the piece
File
blunt and smooth.
of tin
The
Bore
six " finger holes
the stick as shown, and cover

Fig.
543.^ The
Drum
tin-foil
it
"
in
with
or silver paper.
Figure 542 shows
Stick.
The Bass Drum, and Fig. 544 the

detail of its framework.
Procure eight
barrel
hoops for the framework
a small drum.
in
water, then
fasten
them together
Place the
C,
so as to
Fig
542.
The
Bass
drum
D around
it
make
in diameter.
in the exact
one hoop, and fasten
and
also
Soak four of the hoops

bend them out and
two hoops 30 or 34 inches

of
strips
(Fig. 544).
center
A, B,
Brace
the other hoop with strip E, then con-
Drum.
nect the two hoops with 12-inch strips
placed horizontally as shown.
Fasten the small drum
in place with cords (Fig. 544).
Cover the entire frame-
work with wrapping-paper, then cut away the portion

covering the head of the small
drum
(Fig. 542).
Nail
422
the four remaining barrel hoops around the bass
drum
for rims.
Use small
staples for the brace-cord
hooks (Fig. 545)
cut the braces out of canvas by the pattern of Fig. 546,
Fig. 549-
Fig. 547.
Figs. 545 and 546.
for
Fig. 544.
Detail of Bass Drum.
and sew edge
to
for the brace cord,
Figs. 547 to 549.
Details of Cymbals.
Get heavy wrapping cord
edge B.
and lace
Details of Braces
Bass Drum.
it
back and forth around the
drum, as shown in Fig. 542. Screw a screw-eye into

each rim from which to attach a rope or tape sling (Fig.
542).
For Cymbals procure two pot covers

spool upon the
drum framework
knob (Fig. 548)

549).
at
mount one on
(Fig. 547),
and fasten a
to the top of the other for a handle (Fig.
Pot-cover knobs such as that shown can be bought
any hardware store
Saw
off
handle for
at 5 cents apiece.
14-inch piece from the end of a broom-

The Drum-stick; cut a hole
it
run through, and drive a
to
in
423
an old tennis-ball for

through the
nail
ball into,
the end of the stick (Fig. 543).
Snare Drums can be easily
made by
stretching canvas or
heavy cloth over cheese boxes, but real drums will help
to tone
up the band and should be used
if
you can get
them.
The Drum Major
(Fig.
Choose
550).
for
your drum-
major the boy who can twirl a stick the best.
make
If
an old fur muff can be had,
Splendid "Bearskin" Cap; sew a piece of elastic to
one end
of
it
to
it
will
go around the chin
Fig. 551.
(Fig. 551).
^'^-557'
In case
Fig. 554.
Fig. 552.
550. The
Drum Major.
Fig.
Fig. 553.
Figs. 551 to 557.
Fig. 555.
Details of Drum Major's
Outfit.
you cannot get a muff, make a cardboard cylinder

10 inches in diameter and 12 inches high, and fasten a
424
circular piece of cardboard to the top (Fig. 552);
cover
it
then
with cotton (Fig. 553).
Cut a piece
broom-handle 3 feet long for

The Drum Major's Staff, paint it black, and screw to
the head a brass ball from a curtain-pole (Fig. 554);
of
then wrap the joint between the ball and piece of broom-
handle with cord until
it is
filled out, as
and cover the cord with a band
shows
The Major's Whistle; with
to play.
Any
Uniforms.
has
shown
this
he signals the band
toy whistle will do.
The drum major may wear
boots
He
a pair, but these are not necessary.
have a red or blue sash

braid stripes pinned
his cuffs.
in Fig. 555,
Figure 556
of tin-foil.
tied across his breast,
down
his trousers legs
Small safety-pins
may be sewed
if
he
should
and red
and around
to the stripes

Cut a cardboard form similar
so they can be attached quickly.
way to make the epaulets.

to Ay pad it on top with
cotton,
and cover
cloth; then cut fringe out of yellow cloth
it
with red
and sew

it
to the
edge C,
Sew
425
a small safety-pin to the under
A.
side of
Figures 530, 531, and 532 will suggest the uniforms

for the other band musicians
a soldier cap, a pair of
made
drum
major's (see Fig. 557),

and red braid stripes for the cuffs and trousers legs.
epaulets
Now,
similar to the
work and organize your band, and

after the instruments have been made and you have
given a public performance, write and tell me how you
succeeded.
When your town has a parade on some
special occasion, probably you can get permission to
head the procession, and when you boys have a vaudeville, a circus, or any kind of a show or entertainment,
the band will fill the requirements of an orchestra.
If
you belong to the " Boy Scouts," organize a Boy Scout
Band.
boys, get to
INDEX
Annual
Admission
tickets, 269.
Aerial, a wireless telegraph, 227;
dimensions
form and
227; construction of, 228;

masts for, 230;
229;
of,
insulation of,
Aerogram blanks,
gUder,
303
simple
monoplane model, 304; a French monoplane model, 309; an Antoinette monoplane model, 314;
a more elaborate
monoplane model, 316 center-poles, 305,
;
309, 314, 320;
room
propeller,
starting platform,
S33
platform, 335
rope
push-ofl[
Amateur wireless telegraph stations, 223.

Ammunition for snow battleship, 285.
Ampere, 252.
Animals for merry-go-round, cardboard,
197.
in
an
Auto delivery-wagon, a toy, 180.

Automatic drill, 23.
Automobile moving picture, an, 273.
Auto wagon, 374; steering-gears for, 374,
375; seats for, 376; trip gong for, 376.
Awls, brad-, 22; scratch, 22.
Axles, wagon, 368.
B
Back-saw, 18.
Bag, a sleeping-, 342.
Balloon for auto-airship, framework
envelope of, 331; stays, 331.
329
of home-made instruments, a boys',

416; a cornet, 417; a trombone, 418;
a bass horn, 420; a fife, 421; a bass
drum, 421; cymbals, 422; a drum-stick,
snare
drums, 423;
the drum
423;
major's "bearskin" cap, 423; his staff,
uniforms, 424.
his whistle, 424
424
;
Barrel table, 166.
Basket, a waste, 164.

Bass drum, a home-made, 421.
Bass horn, a home-made, 420.
Battens, 69.
Batteries, dry, 247 ; connections
of,
253-
193,
of,
Band
',
attachment of car, 335

335
windlass for pulling airship back to platform, 335
an auto-airship club, 336.
Airships," clockwork "flying, 203.
cable,
Room
Auto-airship, a boy's (see Airship).
balloon, 329; ribs, 330; rib-bands, 331;

balloon envelope, 331 ; stays, 331 ; car,
(see
Auger-bits, 21.
an
propellers, 306, 310, 315,
321; motors, 307 winding up the motor,

308; planes, 306, 311, 315, 323; warping
adjustthe planes, 313, 318 (Fig. 399)
ing the planes, 306, 313, 324; bracing
cords, 313, 324; binding material, 320;
tails, 316, 325; fins, 316, 325; rudders,
running-gears,
321;
311,
316,
324;
skids, 311; finish, 324; field for experiments, 326.
Airship, a boy's auto-, 327; framework of
332
334
in
Attic).
223.
bird
rocker, 164.
Attic, a boy's
length of flights,
Aeroplanes, model, 297
298, 324; junior aero clubs, 300; meets,
300 glider race, 306 types of machines
support of models, 302
a
used, 302
cardboard
Arm
grounding of, 230.

Aero clubs, junior, 300.
rings, 44.
Antennae (same as Aerial).

Antoinette monoplane model, 314.
Ark, a bird, 385
a wall bracket bird, 385.
Armor, home-made, 412; a helmet, 413;
a shield, 414; a sword, 415.
Battery, a storage, 246.

Battle, rules for a snow naval, 285.
Battlement, a castle club-house, 409.
427
247 and
;;
INDEX
428
snow (see Snow Battleship).

Beaded boards, 49.
Bearings, model aeroplane shaft, 307, 309, 322.
"Bearskin" cap, a drum major's, 423.
Bench, a cabinet-made, 3 a home-made, 3
Battleship, a
a chair saw-, 38 a solid work, 4 a work,

with tool-drawers, 8; a bedroom or
living-room, 117; a camp table, 350;
a box, 350.
;
Bench-hook, 40.
Bench-screw, an iron, 7.
Bench-stop, an adjustable,
attic,
Room
a (see
an
in
Attic).
Brace, ratchet-, 21.

Bracket-saw, 18.
Brad-awls, 22.
Brass craft, 206 tools and materials for, 206
enlarging designs by squares, 207 pierc;
home-made
poHshing, 209; a
208;
ing,
lacquer, 209; tea-pot stand, 209; calendar board, 211; pen tray, 211; lamp-
212; candle-shade, 214; fringe

214; shade holders, 215; candlestick, 215; "Paul Revere" lantern, 216.
Brushes, 77.
shade,
12.
Bench-stops, home-made, 11.

Bench-vise,
Boy's room in an
6.
Bevel, 26, 71.
for,
Butt-joint, 60.
Biplane type of model aeroplane, faults of

the,
Bird
302.
a cardboard, 303.
Bird-houses, 379; material for, 379; a box
bird-house, 380
another box bird-house,
a bird tower, 382
a tin-can bird
381
glider,
a bird castle, 383 ; a bird

ark, 385
a wall bracket bird ark, 385
a house and swing, 386 a hanging-house,
386; a shelter, 387.
Bit, expansive-, 21; wood drill, 22; countertower, 382
sink, 22
screw-driver, 23.
Cabinet, a tool, 33
a music, 159.
Cabinet-made work benches,
Cabin latch, an old-fashioned, 157.

Cable for auto-airship, 335.
Cage, a white rat, 399.
Calendar board, 211.
Call, to receive a "wireless," 249
Calumet Aero Club, The, 300.
Blanks, aerogram, 223.

Blocks, single, 329.
Blueprints, working-drawing, 97.
Blunderbuss for "Willie Shute," 268.
Camp
foot, def. of, 51.
of, 49;
undressed, 48;
matched, 49; beaded and
matched-and-beaded, 49; rabbeted, 65.
(See Lumber.)
dressed, 48;
Boats, a punt, 351
a sharpie, 356.
Boats," "torpedo, 286.
;
Bob-sled,
290; runners, 291; seats, 292;

check-chains,
steering
foot-bar,
293
steering lines, 293
handle-bars,
293
seat cushion, 293
painting, 294.
293
;
Bolts, 74.
Bonehead, 260.
Book-racks, 107 ; extension, 108.
Book-shelf, 163.
Bottle-rack, 141.
Box and barrel
furniture, 160 (see Furniture).

Boxing-match, moving picture of a, 277.
Boy riders for merry-go-round, 195.
to
make
a,
a "wireless," 223.
Call
Bits, auger-, 21.
Board
250.
Bit-brace, 21.
Boards, stock sizes
3.
Cabinet-maker's clamps, 29.
list,
furniture, 349
a chair, 349
a table,
349 a table bench, 350 a box bench,
350; box cupboards, 350.
Camping equipment, 337; cost of "A" and
wall tents, 337; how to make an "A"
tent, 338; ridge-pole and uprights for a
tent, 340
tent stakes, 340
pitching the
a
tent, 340
a tent ground-cloth, 341
a
spruce or pine twig mattress, 341
sleeping-bag, 342
other equipment, 342
an electric flash lamp, 343 packing, 343
a safety match-box, 344; a dufiSe box,
;
344
food
suppHes,
an open
345
learning
to
a back345
pothooks,
woodsman's fireplace, 346
a
a sheet-iron camp stove, 347
347
Dutch oven, 348 a fireless cooker, 348
building a fire, 348; a camp chair, 349;
a camp table, 349; a table bench, 350;
a box bench, 350; box cupboards, 350.
Camp stove, a sheet-iron, 347.
Candle-shade, 214; holder for a, 215.
Candle-stick, a brass, 215.
cook, 345
fire,
;;
;;
INDEX
Can
and screws,
429
Clockwork
Cap, a drum major's "bearskin," 423.

Captain of snow battleship, duties of, 285.
toys, 189 (see Toys).

Clothes closet for an attic room,
trousers hangers for, 155.
Car
Clown and
receptacles for nails
35.
for auto-airship, 332.
for "flying air-
ships," 205.
300 auto-airship, 336.

Coach-whip pennant, 284.
;
Coaster, 287
Cart, a toy, 180.

Castle, a bird, 383.
seat,
Castle club-house,
material, 404;
a, 404;
framework, 405 floor joists, 407 corner
walls, 407
openings, 408
turrets, 407
secret
roof,
battlement,
408
409
treasure vaults, 409; drawbridge, 409;
windlass for drawbridge, 411;
moat,
;
runners
for, 287
shoes, 288
handles, 289; foot-bar, 290;
289;
painting, 290.
Code
card, a "wireless," 223.

Codes, Morse and Continental, 250
way
a good
to learn the, 251.
Coil, a home-made "wireless " tuning-, 237;

an induction- or spark-, 245.
Cold-chisel, 25.
412.
Ceiling, def. of boards
known
Commercial
as, 49.
Cells (see Batteries).
Center-table, a doll's, 182.
Chain fringe
for brass craft, 214.
Roman, 126; a Mission, 128; an
Chair, a
office,
a doll's round-seated, 182

163
square-seated, 183;
a camp,
;
doll's
349-
Chair saw-bench, 38.

Chamfer, 71.
Common-joint, 60.
Common-splice, 60.
Compasses, 92.
Compass-saw, 18.
Condenser, a home-made "wireless," 241.
Contests, model aeroplane, 300, 306, 325.
Continental telegraph code, 251.
Contrivances for the house, handy, 135
a fireless cooker, 136; pot-cover rack,
141 bottle-rack, 141 flat-iron rest, 143
flat-iron rack, 144
sleeve-board, 145
knife-box, 146; scrub-pail platform, 146;
towel-roller, 147; ice-pick and ice-chisel
;
Chamfer bevel, 71.

Chamfer groove, 71.
Check-chain, bob-sled, 293.

Checks in lumber, 47.
Chest, a tool-, 30; a pirate, 159.
Chest-weight, 170.
Chicago Wireless Club, The, 222.
Chiffonier, a box, 167.
Chinning-bar, 175.
Chisels, firmer, 24; framing or mortising,
cold-, 25.
Cigar boxes, preparation
amateur "wireless,"
stations,
223.
Center-poles, model aeroplane, 305, 309, 314,

320.
24;
pictures, 272.
Carriage-bolts, 74.
Cars for Ferris wheel, 201;
moving
Club-house, a castle (see Castle).

Clubs, workshop, 103, 105
wireless telegraph, 222; vaudeville, 256; junior aero,
Carpenter's horse, 36.

Carpenter's steel square, 26.
ball
155
of,
178;
cutting,
179; finish, 179.

Cigar-box toys and gifts, 178 (see Toys; also
Furniture).
rack, 148.
Cooker, a fireless, 136, 348.

Coping-saw, 18.
Cornet, a home-made, 417.
Cote, a pigeon-, 402.
Counterbalance, castle drawbridge, 410.
Countersink-bit, 22.
Countersinking, 73.
Cradle, a doll's, 183.
Crate opener, 17.
Cross-cut saw, 18.
Crosstree, 284.
Clamps, cabinet-maker's,
29;
home-made,
29.
Cleating boards, 69.

Cleats, 69; porcelain, 229.
Clock-shelf, 105
a corner, 184.
;
Clockwork motors,
190, 198; to operate, 197;

to increase speed of, 205.
Cupboards, camp, 350.

Cup-shakes, 47.
Current strength, electrical, 252.
Cutting cigar-box wood, 179.
Cutting large holes, 142.
Cutting pliers, 28.
Cymbals, home-made, 422.
INDEX
430
Dummy
Dado-plane, 20.
Deck
of
snow
assistant to professor with magical
mortar, 263.
Dutch oven, 348.
battleship, 283.
Delivery- wagon, a toy auto, 180.

Desk, a Mission writing-, 129; a table, 133;
a box writing-, 160.

Detail drawing, 86.
home-made "wireless," 233; a

microphone, 233
a razor blade microa siUcon, 236.
phone, 235
Dickson, Mr. Royal C, 223.
Detectors,
Electrical measurements, 252.

Electric fixture, 134.
Electric lamp, 130.
Electromagnetic waves, 226.
Elementary manual
training, 42.
Dimension
stuff,
sizes of
lumber known
as,
49.
Dining-table, a doll's, 182.

Dividers, wing-, 27.
Dog-house, 389.
Doll furniture, 182
a round-seated chair,
182 a round center-table, 182 a diningtable, 182; a square-seated chair, 183;
a cradle, 183.
Door, a paneled, 124.
Doors for partitions of attic room, 156;
transom for, 157; cabin-latch for, 157.
Dot and dash, 226 and 247.
Dovetail half-lap joint, 68.
;
Elevations, def. of front, rear, side, right,
and
left,
87.
Enlarging by squares, 207, 287.

Estimating cost of material, 51.
Exercising machine (see Chest- weight).
Expansive-bit, 21.
Express- wagon, a toy, 180.
Extension book-rack, 108.
Falsetto, 263.
Ferris wheel, a clockwork, 198.
Dovetail-joint, 66.
a home-made, 421.
Fighting- tops, 283.
Files, handiest forms of, 25.
Filler, a paste, 82.
Doweling, 68.
Filling
Dowel-joint, 68.
Finishing woodwork, 75.

Fins, model aeroplane, 316, 325.
Fire, an open camp, 345
to build
Dovetailing, 67.
Dowels, 68.
Drafting table, 91, 133.
Drawbridge, castle, 409.
woodwork,
82.
cooker,
Fireless
136
U.
S.
a,
348.
Army, 140
camp, 348.
Drawer-pulls, 32, 288.
Drawers
Fife,
Fireplace, the backwoodsman's, 346.
for tools, 10.
Drawing-board, 91.
Firmer
Drawing
Fished-splice, 60.
outfit, 90.
Drawings, working-, 86; perspective, 88.

Draw-knife, 25.
Dressed stuff, 48.
Drill, an automatic, 23.
Drill bit for wood, 22.
Drop-cord, how to wire up a, 132.
Drum, a home-made bass, 421 a home-made
chisels, 24.
Fixed condenser, a home-made "wireless,"

241.
Flags for snow battleships, 284, 286.

Flash lamp for camping, an electric, 343.
Flat-iron rest, 143.
major, 423; a "bearskin" cap, 423;

424; a whistle, 424.
Drum-stick, a bass-drum, 423.
Flushing PushmoUle Club, The, 365; races

of, 365-367" Flying airships," clockwork, 203.
Folding rule, a 2-foot, 26.
Food suppHes, camp, 345.
Foot-bar for coaster, 290; for bob-sled, 293.
Dry
Footstool, ii4>
snare, 423.
Drum
a
staff,
batteries (see Batteries),
Duflfle box, 344.
Fore-plane, 20.
Dumb-bell
Dumb-bell
lifting stunt, 258.
Foreshorten, def. of term, 319.
rack, 177.
Framing
chisel, 24.
INDEX
Fringe for brass
431
Gymnasium
craft, 214.
Funnels for snow battleships, 284.

Furnishing an attic room, 159.
Furniture, box and barrel, 160; writing-desk,
waste-basket,
ofl&ce chair,
160
163
;
apparatus, for a boy's room,
striking-bag
chest- weight,
170;
170;
platform, 173; chinning-bar, 175; hitchand-kick, 175;
wand, 176; rack for
dumb-bells, Indian clubs, and wand, 177.
164; arm-rocker, 164; barrel table, 166;

chiffonier, 167; pirate chest, 159; win-
dow
seat, 159.
a table,
Furniture, camp, 349
a chair, 349
349; a table bench, 350; a box bench,
;
350; cupboards, 350.

a round-seated chair,
Furniture, doll, 182
a dining
182
a round center-table, 182
;
182
table,
a square-seated, chair, 183
a cradle, 183.
Furniture, easily made, 103
holder,
185
a whisk-broom
Hatchet, 16.
necktie-rack,
107
book-racks, 107 an
tabourets,
book-rack,
108;
no, 112; a plant stand, 114; a footstool,
114; bench, 117; magazine racks, 120;
a music-cabinet, 122; an umbrella-stand,
;
Roman
chair, 126;
a Mission
a Mission writing-desk, 129;
an electric lamp, 130; a drafting table,
133; a desk table, 133.
sled, 293.
Handscrews, 29.
Hanging lamp, a home-made, 158.
Headlights, 373.
Heart-shakes, 47.
extension
125;
17; a tack, 17.
Handle-bars,
Hay-stove
match-box, 188
a towel-rack, 107
Hammer,
clock-shelf,
105
a corner-clock shelf, 184; a kej^ -board,
a match-box, 185
a cottage pipe183
a cottage
rack and match-box, 186
105,
Half-lap joint, 60.

Halved-joint, 60.
Halved-splice, 60.
chair, 128;
(see Fireless cooker).
Heart-wood, 44.
Heater for attic room, 157,
Hertzian waves, 226.
Hinge-hasp, 31.
Hitch-and-kick, 175.
Holder, a whisk-broom, 105;
Holes, cutting large, 142.
Home
workshop,
a shade, 215.
the, i.
Hood, a pushmobile, 372.

Hooks, spool, 155.
Horn, a home-made bass, 420.
Horse, a carpenter's, 36.
Horse and hound, moving pictures, 272.

Horses for merry-go-round, 193.
House, a bird- (see Bird-houses)
a dog-,
;
Gauge, a marking-, 26; a mortise-, 27.

Gauging, 52.
Gears, model aeroplane running-, 311, 316,
321.
183 (see Furniture).

Gimlet, a hand, 22.
Gifts, cigar-box,
Girl riders for merry-go-round,
195.
Ghder, a cardboard bird, 303

a simple
monoplane, 304; a race, 306.
Gong, a trip, 376.
Gothic letters, for working-drawings, 102.
Gouge, 24.
Grindstone, 30.
Groove, 66.
Ground-cloth, a tent, 341.
;
Grounding an
aerial, 230.
Grounds, 116.
Guns
for
snow
battleship, 283, 285.
389.
_
Housed-joint, 66.
Household conveniences,
135
(see
Contri-
vances for the house).

Houses for pets, 389; a dog-house, 389; a
a breeding hutch,
rabbit-hutch, 391
a two-story rabbit-hutch, 395
394
a rabbit yard, 398 a cage for white rats,
399; a pigeon-cote, 402.
Hutch, a rabbit-, 391; a breeding, 394; a
painting, 402
two-story rabbit-, 395
drinking receptacles,
floor covering, 402
;
402.
I
Ice-pick and ice-chisel rack, 148.

Indian club rack, 177.
Induction-coil, a "wireless," 245.
;;
INDEX
432
Inkstand, a home-made pencil box and, 96.

Instruments, drawing, 90; "wireless" re"wireless" transmitting,
ceiving, 232;
a boys' band of home-made, 416.
245
Insulation of the "wireless " aerial, 229.
;
Insulators, porcelain, 229.
Lock, a mortise-, and a half-mortise, 125.

Lockers for a boy's room, 154.
Logs, cutting up, 45.
Lug pole, 346.
Lumber, preparation
seasoning
of,
stock sizes
of,
of, 45
defects In, 47
48; kiln drying of, 48;
49; estimating cost of, 51.
;
M
Jack-in-the-box, 181.
Machine, a simple moving-picture, 270.
Jack-knife, 15.
Jack-plane, 19.
Joints, 57;
common-, 60;
butt-, 60; halved-,
mortise-and-tenon, 61;
60;
tongue-andhoused-, 66
65
dovetail, 66
mitered, 66
groove, 66
dowel, 68.
dovetail half-lap, 68
Juggling with "heavy" balls, 260.
Juvenile Manufacturing Co., The, 103.
or
lap-,
rabbet-,
Magazine
Magazine
of
snow
battleship, 285.
racks, 120.
Magical mortar, 260; stunts with
battery of snow battleship, 285.

Mallet, a wooden, 17.
Manual
training, elementary, 42.

Marconi, Guglielmo, 219.
Marking-gauge, 26.
Mast
for
Masts
snow
battleship, 283.
for aerial, 230.
Match-box, a kitchen, 185

Keel board, an inner, for punt, 353
for
Matched
stuff, 49.
stuff, 49.
of workshop working-,
purchasing, 50
estimating cost of,
43
51; upholstering, 116; brass craft, 206.
Material boxes, 34.
Mattress, a pine twig, 341.
;
a draw-, 25.
Knife switch, a double-throw, single-pole,

a double- throw, double-pole, 248.
231
Knobs, spool, 169.
Knots, 47,
;
Medullary rays, 45.

Meets, model aeroplane, 300;
Merry-go-round, a clockwork,
for,
193;
riders
Lacquer for ^>rass craft, 209.

Lamp, an electric, 130 a home-made hang;
ing-, 158.
Lamp-shade, 212; holder for

Lantern hanging-lamp, 158;
a,
215.
a "Paul Re-
vere," 216.
Latch, a cabin, 157.

Laying out work, 51 working-drawings, 100.
Lettering working-drawings, 102.
Level, 27; a pocket, 28.
Leveling up uneven legs of furniture, 112.
License number, a pushmobile, 373.
Light for workshop, 3
for attic room, 158.
Lines, dimension, loi
center-,
dot-anddash, dotted, and marginal, 102
plumb-,
;
153.
cottage pipe-rack
a cottage, 188; a safety, 344.
Material, selection
Keyhole-saw, 18.
Kiln drying, 48.
Knife, a jack-, 15;
Knife-box, 146.
and, 186;
Matched-and-beaded
sharpie, 361.
Key, a "wireless," 248.

Key-board, 183.
the, 261.
Main
sleighs for, 194;
for,
195
animals
pushmobile.
190;
girl
for,
horses
and boy
197
operate, 197.
Microphone detector,
a home-made,
a razor blade, 235.
Mill list, preparation of a, 50.
Mission chair, 128.
Mission writing-desk, 129.
Miter-box, a home-made, 39.
to
233
Mitered-joint, 66.
Mitered-spHce, 66.
Moat, 412.
Model aeroplanes (see Aeroplanes).

Monoplane model aeroplane, a simple, 304
a French, 309;
more
elaborate,
an Antoinette, 314;
316.
Aeroplanes.)
Morse telegraph
code, 250.
(For
parts
a
see
INDEX
433
Mortar, the magical, 260.
Paper
Mortise, 62.
97Parallel, batteries connected in,
Mortise- and-tenon joints, 61.

Mortise-gauge, 27.
Mortising chisel, 24.
Motors, clockwork, 190, 198; to operate, 197
increasing speed of, 205.
winding for
Motors, model aeroplane, 307
;
Paring with a
a simple machine for,

270; the clown and ball, 272; the circus
horse and hound, 272
the automobile,
the
the revolving wheels, 276
273
boxing match, 277.
Multiple, batteries connected in, 247 and 253.
Music-cabinet, 122.
pictures, 270;
for tracing,
247, 253.
chisel, 63.
Partition for attic room, 149.
"Paul Revere"
lantern, a brass, 216.
Pencil box, a home-made, 96.

Pencils, drawing, 94.
for a boy's room, 159;
battleship, 284.
Pennants
flights, 308.
Moving
working drawings, 96
for
for
a snow
Pens, 95.
Pen
tray, 211.
Perspective drawing, def. of a, 88.

Picture-frames, home-made, 159.
Pictures, moving, 270.
Pigeon-cote, 402.
Pins for mortise-and-tenon joints, 65.
Pirate chest, 159.
Pith of a tree, 44.

Plain sawing, 45.
Nail boxes and cans, 34 and 35.

toe-, 152 (Fig. 173).
Plan, def.
Nailing, 74;
Nails, 74.
Nail-set, 17.
rules for a, 285.
323
Nest boxes, rat-cage, 400.
stability,
303
warping
of,
313, 318
(Fig. 399)-
Netting, poultry-, 393.
Planing exercise, 54.

Planks, sizes of lumber known
Plant stand, no, 114.
Platforms for auto-airship, 334.
jobs, the, 28.
as, 49.
Pliers, 28.
OflSce chair, 163.
Ohm,
Naval battle, a snow, 285;

Necktie-rack, 107.
Odd
of, 87.
Plane, a jack-, 19 a smoothing-, 20 a fore-,

20 a rabbet-, 20 a dado-, 20.
Planes for model aeroplanes, 306, 311, 315,
Plumb-board, 153.
252.
Plumb-line, 153.
Oiler, 30.
Pocket
Oil heater for attic room, 157

Oiling woodwork, 84.
PoHshing, wood, 83
brass, 209.
Pot-cover rack, 141.
Potentiometer, a home-made "wireless,"
level, 28.
;
Oil stains, 79.

Oilstone, 30.
243-
a wood finishing, 75; a

drawing, 90; a brass craft, 206 a "wireless" receiving, 232; a "wireless" transmitting, 24s
a camping, 337.
Oven, a Dutch, 348.
Outfit, a tool, 14;
Pothooks, 347.
Poultry-netting, 393.
Pressure, electrical, 252.
Priming coat,
78.
Printing-frame for blueprints, a home-made,

99.
Professor for a boys' vaudeville show, the,

his magical mortar, 260 ; stunts,
261
;
Packing a camp
Paint, 75
outfit, 343.
mixing, 76.
Painter for punt, 355
Program board
Painting, 77.
Panel door, 124.

Paneling, 124.
261-263.
for sharpie, 362.
for vaudeville show,
268
an auto-airship, S33Propellers, model aeroplane, 306, 310, 315,

shafts and bearings for, 307.
321
Punching-bag (see Striking-bag).
Propeller,
;;;
INDEX
434
Punt, a home-made, 351; dimensions, 351;

material, 351; side boards, 352; stem-
and
bottom boards,
353
inner keel board, 353
seats, 354
rowlocks, 354
thole-pins, 355
painter,
353
stern-pieces,
355; finishing, 355.

Pushmobile, a, 364 a, club, 365, 368 a
to construct a, 368
axles,
367
steering-gear,
wagon-bed, 369
hood, 372; radiator-front, 372;
headlights, 373
side lamps,
373
;
painting, 373
race,
368
369
Roman
373
Room
simple, 376
wagon-bed, 376
front wheels, 377.
;
rear wheels, 377
chair, 126.
Roof, castle, 408.
racing pushmobile, 373.
Push wagon, a
Ridge-pole, a tent, 340.

Rip-saw, 18.
Rocker, an arm, 164.
Roller, a towel-, 147.
seat,
number, 373
license
Resistance, electrical, 252.
Rest for flat-iron, 143.

Revolving wheels moving picture, 276.
Rib-bands, auto-airship balloon, 331.
Puttying, 84.
Putty-knife, a home-made, 85.
an
in
attic,
boy's,
149;
parti-
tions for, 149; lockers for, 154; clothes

closet for, 155; heater for, 157; wash-
stand
for,
158; lighting, 158; furnishing,
159-
Rowlocks, 354.
Rubbing woodwork, 83.

Rudder, a model aeroplane,
316,
324;
sharpie, 362.
Rule, a 2-foot folding, 26.
Quarter sawing, 46.
Ruler, a 12-inch, 94.

Ruling-pen, 93.
Runners
Rabbet, 65.
shoes
push-
Sam Dow,
mobile, 365-368.
track," a rat-cage, 401.
tool-, 33
a necktie-, 107
a towel-,
an extension book-,
a book-, 107
107
108; a magazine-, 120; a pot-cover, 141
a bottle-, 141; a flat-iron, 144; an icepick and ice-chisel, 148 a broom-handle
towel-, 158 a dumb-bell, Indian club, and
;
wand, 177.
the strong man, 256; stunts

256-260.
Sandpapering, 84.
Sap-wood, 45.
Saw, cross-cut, 18;
keyhole-, 18;
rip-,
bracket-, 18;
scroll-,
18;
Saw-bench, a chair, 38.

quarter, 46
Sawing, plain, 45
exercise in,
Scratch-awl, 22.
Screw-driver, a spiral-ratchet, 23
aerial,
silicon
detector,
236;
235;
tuning-coil, 237
fixed condenser, 241
potentiometer, 243
arrangement of instruments, 248; to receive a call, 249;
;
coping-,
19.
Scale for mechanical drawing, 94.

Scales to which drawings are made, 88.
compass-, 18;
227; insulating, 229; grounding, 230;

telephone receivers, 232
microphone
razor blade microphone
detector, 233
detector,
for,
57-
Ratchet screw-driver, 23.

Razor blade microphone detector, 235.
Receivers, telephone, 232.
Receiving outfit, a "wireless," 232;
18;
back-, 18;
Radiator-front, a pushmobile, 372.

Ratchet-brace, 21.
codes, 250.
288.
321.
Rabbit-hutch (see Hutch).

Rabbit yard, 398.
Races, model aeroplane, 300, 306, 325
Rack, a
for,
Running-gears, model aeroplane, 311, 316,
Rabbet-joint, 65.
Rabbet-plane, 20.
"Race
for coaster, 287; for hob-sled, 291
23; a, bit, 23.

Screws, 72; fastening together
a hand,
work with,
73-
Scribing, 51.
Scroll-saw, 19.
Scrub-pail platform, 146.
Seasoning lumber, 48.

Seat, a window, 159;
bob-sled, 292.
a coaster,
289;
INDEX
punt,
coaster, 289; bob-sled, 292;
wagon, 373, 376.
sharpie, 361
354
Secondary battery of snow battleship, 285.
Seats,
and longitudinal,
Section, def. of cross-,
88.
connected in, 247, 253.

Series-parallel, batteries connected in, 247,
Series, batteries
253-
a candle-, 214.
Shade, a lamp-, 212:
Shade holders, 215.

Shafts for model aeroplanes,
435
pannant, 284;
Jack, 284
286.
Socket and drop-cord for lamp, 131.

Spark-coil, 245.
310, 322.
heart-, 47.
Shakes, cup-, 47
dimensions,
Sharpie, a home-made, 356
356; side pieces, 357; stem-piece, 358;
stretcher, 358; putstern-piece, 358;
;
the pieces together, 358; bottom

boards, 359; skeg, 360; inner keel board,
ting
bow, 361
Spark-gap, 246.
Specifications, 86.
Spiral-ratchet screw-driver, 23.

Spirit level, 27.
57; common-, 60;

halved, 60; mitered-, 66.
Splices,
fished-,
Shellacking, 81.
Spoke-shave, 25.
Spool hooks, 155; knobs, 169.
Spreader for aerial, 229.
Square, a try-, 26
a carpenter's
Squares, enlarging by, 207, 287.
Shelter, a bird, 387.
Stability planes, 303.
Shelves for workshop, 34; for books, 163.

Shoes for sled runners, 288.
Staff,
Shooting-board, 40.
Stains, water, 79
Stakes, tent, 340.
361
seats,
361
painter, 362
rowlocks, 363.
a corner clock, 184.
Shelf, a clock, 105
rudder, 362;
Shellac, 81.
Shop equipment, work-benches, 3-13

14-30
tool-chest, 30
tool-rack,
33
tools,
tool-cabinet, ss
boxes, 34-36
chair saw-bench, 38;
box,
bench-hook,
39;
a boy's vaudeville (see

Vaudeville show).
Side lamp, a bicycle lamp, 373 ; a clock-case,
for
oil,
79.
Stand, a tea-pot, 209.

Steering foot-bar, sled, 293.
Steering-gears, wagon, 369, 374, 375.
lines, sled, 293; wagon, 371, 375.
Steering-wheels, wagon, 369, 374, 375.
Stem-piece, the punt, 353
the sharpie, 358.
the sharpie, 358.
Stern-piece, the punt, 353
Silicon detector, a
home-made,
236.
wood, 45.
Silver grain in
model aeroplane, 311.

;
Stops,
Smoothing-plane, 20.
Snare drums, home-made, 423.
Snow battleship, 279; central station, 279;
hull, 280;
torpedo tube, 281; superstructure deck, 283; conning-tower, 283;
forward turret, 283 midship turret, 283
mast, 283
fighting-tops, 283
rapid-fire
;
crosstree,
284
home-made
12.
bench-, 11; door, 125.
Storage battery, 246.
a bob-, 290.
Sleeping-bag, 342.
Sleeve-board, 145.
Sleighs for merry-go-round, 194.
sizes of, 49.
Stop, an adjustable bench-,

Stop chamfer, 71.
Skeg, 360.
Sled, a coaster, 287
Stock, def. of term, 48;

Stool, a foot-, 114.
373-
283
a drum-major's, 424.
Steering
board, 40.
Show, stunts
guns,
26.
steel,
Steel square, 26.
miter-
shooting-
40;
60;
Staining, 78.
material
horse, 36;
Skids,
funnels,
main-battery and
284; ventilators, 2 85
secondary battery guns, 285 ammunition
duties of the Captain, 285
stores, 285
a naval battle, 285
rules for a naval
battle, 285; flag of truce, 286; "torpedo
boats," 286; repairs, 286; marksmanship,
propeller, 307,
Union
284:
signal flags,
national ensign, 284
coach- whip
Stove, camp, 347.

Stove for attic room, 157.
Striking-bag, 173; platform
Structure of wood, 44.
Stuff,
def.
term,
of
dressed, 48
48;
matched, 49
for,
173.
undressed,
;
48;
matched-and-
beaded, 49.
Swing, a bird, 386.
Switch, a double-throw single-pole knife,
231; a double-throw double-pole knife,
248.
;;
INDEX
436
Table, a drafting, 91, 133

a desk, 133
a barrel, 166 a doll's round center-, 182 ;
a doll's dining-, 182; a camp, 349.
Tabourets, no, 112.
Tails, model aeroplane, 316, 325.
Taper, 71.
Targets for Willie Shute's vaudeville stunts,
;
248; arrangement of instruments, 248;

operation of, 249; to make a call, 250;
codes,
connection of batteries,
250;
253.
Transom
for door, 157.
Tray, a tool, 10; a brass pen, 211.

Treasure vaults, castle, 409.
Trestletrees, 283.
Triangles, 92.
Trip gong, 376.
267.
Tea-pot stand, a brass, 209.

Telephone receivers, 232.
Tenon, 63.
Tent, cost of
a,
how
337;
to pitch
338;
to
make an "A,"
Tuner
340.
a,
Trombone, a home-made, 418.

Truce, a flag of, 286.
Try-square, 26.
T-square, 91.
(see Tuning-coil).
home-made
Thole-pins, 355.
Tuning-coil, a
Thumb-tacks,
Turnbuckles, 174.
96.
snow
Tickets, admission, 269.

Toe-nailing, 152 (Fig. 173).
Turrets,
Tongue-and-groove
Twist wire
"wireless,"
battleship,
283
237.
castle,
407.
joint, 66.
cloth, 393.
Tool-cabinet, 33.
Tool-chest, 30.
Tool drawers,
10,
Tool-rack, 33.
Tools, purchasing, 14; a handy guide for
purchasing, 15; the principal, 15; a small
outfit of,
15;
for,
rack
33
a chest
for,
35
for,
',
30; cabinet
drawing, 90
brass craft, 206.
Tool tray,
"Torpedo
Umbrella-stand, 125.
Undercutting, 114.
Undressed stuff, 48.

Uniforms for a boys' band, 424.
Upholstering, and material for, ii6.
10.
boats"
for
snow
battleship,
286.
Torpedo tube for snow battleship, 281.

Towel-rack, 107; a broom-handle, 158.
Towel-roller, 147.
Tower, a bird, 382 a tin-can bird, 382.

Toys, cigar-box, 178; an express-wagon, 180;
a cart, 180; an auto deli very- wagon,
180; a jack-in-the-box, 181; a roundseated chair, 182
a round center- table,
182; a dining-table, 182; a squareseated chair, 183; a doll's cradle, 183.
Toys, clockwork, 189; merry-go-round, 190;
;
miniature
Ferris
wheel,
198;
"flying
airships," 203.
outfit,
the professor's final exthe dummy assistant, 263

Falsetto, 263;
the Ventriloquist, 264;
his doll, 264;
Willie Shute, 266; his
targets,
his
blunderbuss,
268
267
program board, 268; admission tickets,
stunts,
262
hibition, 262
269.
"wireless,"
245;
aerial, 227; insulating, 229; grounding,
an induction-coil, 245
spark-gap,
230
246 storage battery, 246 dry batteries,
247; "wireless" key, 248; knife switch.
;
mortar, 260
the
the professor, 261
other mortar
wonderful hat trick, 261
Tracing-cloth, 97.
Tracing-paper, 97.
Transmitting
VanderbiU Pushmohile Cup Race, The, 366.

Varnishing, 83.
Vaudeville show, stunts for a boys', 256;
Sam Dow, 256; lifting feats, 256-260;
juggling, 260; Bonehead, 260; magical
Vaults, castle secret treasure, 409.

Ventriloquist, how a boy can be a,
doll for the, 264.
Vise, bench-, 6
Volt, 252.
an
iron, 8.
264;
;;
INDEX
W
Wagon, a toy
livery-,
ing-coil, 237
tentiometer,
a toy auto de-
express, i8o;
80.
364; a pushmobile, 368; a racing push373; an auto wagon, 374; a

simple push wagon, 376.
Wainscoting for attic room, 155.
Wand, a home-made, 176; rack for a, 177.
Warping, cause of wood, 45.
Warping model aeroplane planes, 313, 318
mobile,
309).
Wash-stand for attic room, 158.

Waste basket, 164.
Water
holders, 105, 185.
drum
make a
codes,
250;
call,
250.
development of, 219;

amateur commercial stations, 223 fundamental principles of, 224 what some boys
have accomphshed, 221.
Wiring a socket, plug, and drop-cord, 132.
Wireless telegraphy,
structure
of,
44;
defects
in, 47.
drill bit, 22.
targets, 267;
76;
staining, 78
water
stains, 79
and
oil stains,
82 ;
waxing, 83 rubbing, 83
poHshing, 83
oiling, 84
sandpapering,
84; puttying, 84; home-made puttyknife, 85 caution about oily rags, 85.
Work bench, a cabinet-made, 3 a homemade, 3 ; a solid, 4 a, with tool drawers,
;
shellacking, 81
filler,
fiUing,
his
mixing
75
brushes, 77;
paint,
75
painting, 77;
varnishing, 83
his blunderbuss, 278.
for, 55.
Winding-sticks, 55.
Windlass, a castle drawbridge, 411.
8.
Working drawings, 86;
seat, 159.
Wind-shakes (same as Cup-shakes), 47.
aration
scales of, 88; prep-
100.
of,
Working edge, def. of, 56.

Working face, def. of, 55.
Working material, selection of, 43.
Workshop, the home, i
location
dividers, 27.
Wings, model aeroplane (see Planes).
Wire
cloth, 393.
Wireless Club, The Chicago, 222.
Wireless telegraph outfit, a boy's,
219;
223; aerogram
blanks, 223; aerial, 227; masts, 230;
insulating, 229; grounding, 230; doublethrow,
single-pole knife switch, 231;
telephone receivers,
232; microphone
detector, 233
razor blade microphone
detector, 235 ; siUcon detector, 236 tun-
code card, 223;
finishing,
paints,
79
major's, 424.
Winding, testing a board
Wing
to
249;
call,
Wood
White rat cage, 399.

WiUie Shute's vaudeville stunts, 266;
Window
po-
Wood-file, a half round, 25.

joints, 65.
Wheels, the moving-picture revolving, 276.

Wheels, wagon, 364, 368, 377.
Whistle, a
Wood,
83.
Wedging mortise-and-tenon
Whisk-broom
241
induction-coil, 245
243
spark-gap, 246; storage battery, 246; dry
batteries, 247
wireless key, 248
doublethrow, double-pole knife switch, 248;
arrangement of instruments, 248 operation of instruments, 249; to receive a
Wood
stains, 79.
Waxing,
fixed condenser,
Wagons, pushmobiles and other home-made,
(Fig.
437
call list,
light
for,
equipment
(see
of,
Writing-desk, a Mission, 129; a box, 160.
Yard, a rabbit, 398.
Shop
equipment)
Wrench, 28.
for
THE BOY CRAFTSMAN

Practical and Profitable Ideas for a Boy's
Leisxire lio-urs
By
A.
NEELY HALL
Illustrated
v/ith
over 400 diagrams and working

8vo Price, $2.00
drawings
'T'VERY
'
BOY
r"
r
m
^^^^
'
real
and make
and
In this book
boy wishes
to design
things, but the questions of materials
tools are often hard to get around.

a number of chapters give suggestions for carrying on a small business that will bring a boy in
money with which to buy tools and materials
necessary for making apparatus and articles
described in other chapters.

No work of its
is so completely up-to-date, the drawings
are profuse and excellent, and every feature of the book is first-class.
It tells how to make a boy's workshop, how to handle tools, and what
can be made with them ; how to start a printing shop and conduct an
amateur newspaper, to fit up a dark-room, build a log cabin, a
canvas canoe, a gymnasium, a miniature theatre, and many other
things dear to the soul of youth.
1
jiiKs
class
We cannot imagine a more delightful present for a boy than this book.
Churchman^ N. Y.
Every boy should have this book. It's a practical book
it gets right next to
the boy's heart and stays there. He will have it near him all the time, and on every
page there is a lesson or something that will stand the boy in good need. Beyond
a doubt in its Hne this is one of the cleverest books on the market.
Providence
News,
If a boy has any sort of a mechanical turn of mind, his parents should see that
he has
This
this
is
book.
Boston Journal.
a book that will do boys good.
The boy who
will not find this
Buffalo
book a mine of
Express.
joy
and
profit
must be queerly
Pittsburgh Gazette.
constituted.
Watchman^ Boston.
Newark News.
Will be a delight to the boy mechanic.
An
admirable book to give a boy.
This book
ideas.
is
the best yet offered for
Milwaukee Free
Parents ought to
For sale by
all
know
its
large
number of
practical
and
profitable
Press.
of this book.
New
York Globe.
booksellers or sent postpaid on receipt of price by

the publishers.
LOTHROP. LEE & SHEPARD
CO., H
iv
az/^
LBJe'21
<>.
^6
LIBRARY OF CONGRESS
013 962 091 4
I,'
'1''
,'ii.

Handicraft

Hochgeladen von

Dokumentinformationen

Copyright

Verfügbare Formate

Dieses Dokument teilen

Dokument teilen oder einbetten

Freigabeoptionen

Stufen Sie dieses Dokument als nützlich ein?

Sind diese Inhalte unangemessen?

Copyright:

Verfügbare Formate

Handicraft

Hochgeladen von

Copyright:

Verfügbare Formate

,'-Mi

Factory of the Juvei^ile Manufacturing Co., of Dayton, Ohio.

iorAwrk ana Play

withManj Ideas fcr EarningMoncjy^

Author of"The Boy Crajftsman \Eic.

LOTHROR LEE ir SHEPAED CO.

by Lothrop, Lee & Shepard Company.

Handicraft for Handy Boys.

play hard; and

work, do not play at

a companion volume to "

The Boy Craftsman," and

boys who want the

for games and

and school entertaijiments.

of the ideas will appeal

younger readers, while other ideas will be better suited to the

it furnishes him with ideas for

right next to a boy's heart, that

of the pleasures that his older brother or friend

work for this reason, no school boy is

gets out of the actual

hands at an early age will be the means of instilling

The Boy Craftsman,"

the author has planned the

vate a love for extravagance.

Much of the work is closely allied to the studies of the

be the means of helping boys to

appreciate the value of close application to studies.

a book of this character complete,

in the sense of covering every scope of

boys are interested

for the field

work and play

growing larger day by day. Every new development

an example of the pace at which boys' achievements

are following the developments of the day.

modern ideas to win the greatest amount of

demands of boys, the author is willing to let his readers decide.

provided for the benefit of the boys

who have not

tages of such instruction at school, as well as to help those

have these advantages,

themselves with equipment

a boy's wireless telegraph outfit

home-made apparatus in its simplest

material as indoor work.

Designers of home-made furniture for amateurs generally

foolish to expect boys to

get along without

ing the instructions for making working-drawings,

to contain only the neces-

All of the material in this volume has been thoroughly tested,

boys have already had an opporwhich have been included

and hundreds of thousands

tunity to carry out

department of The Boys' Magazine, and in The American Boy.

The author invites correspondence, and is always glad

receive photographs of their handicraft for his collection.

AUTUMN AND WINTER HANDICRAFT

The Home Workshop

a Boy should be able

Tools and Home-made Shop Equipment

Bevel Marking-gauge Wing Dividers