We will begin by making a slip knot on the crochet hook about 6 inches from the free end of

the yarn. You will first start by creating a loop with the yarn. Be sure that the free end of the yarn is
dangling behind your loop (see illustration 3).

Insert the crochet hook through the center of the loop and hook the free end (see illustration 4).

Pull this through and up onto the working area of the crochet hook (see illustration 5).

Pull the free yarn end to tighten the loop (see illustration 6). The loop on the crochet hook should be
firm, but loose enough to slide back and forth easily on the hook. Be sure you still have about a 6inch yarn end.

Once you have the yarn wrapped, hold the base of the slip knot with the thumb and index finger of
your left hand.

Step 2: Bring the yarn over the crochet hook from back to front and hook it (see illustration 8). Draw
hooked yarn through the loop of the slip knot on the hook and up onto the working area of the
crochet hook (see arrow on illustration 9); you have now made one chain stitch (see illustration 10).

Step 3: Again, hold the base of the slip knot and bring the yarn over the crochet hook from back to
front (see illustration 11). Hook it and draw through loop on the hook. You have made another chain
stitch (see illustration 12). We will repeat Step 3 for each additional chain.

It is important to note that you should always move the left thumb and index finger up the chain
close to the crochet hook after each new stitch or two (see illustration 13). This helps you control the
work. Also, be sure to pull each new stitch up onto the working area of the hook; otherwise your
starting chain stitches will become too tight.

Once you have worked the beginning chain, you are ready to begin the stitches required to make
any crochet project. These stitches are worked into the foundation chain. For practice, crochet six
chains loosely.
When counting your chain stitches at the start of a patternwhich you must do very carefully before
continuingnote that the loop on the crochet hook is never counted as a stitch and the starting slip
knot is never counted as a stitch.

Now stop and look at the chain. The front looks like a series of interlocking Vs (see illustration 14),
and each stitch has a bump or back bar at the back (see illustration 15).

You will never work into the first chain from the crochet hook unless your instructions state
otherwise. Depending on the stitch, you will work into the second, third, fourth, etc. chain from the
crochet hook. The instructions will always state how many chains to skip before starting the first
stitch.
When working a stitch, insert the crochet hook from the front of the chain, through the center of the

V and under the corresponding bar on the back of the same stitch (see illustration 16a).

Excluding the first stitch, you will work into every stitch in the chain unless the crochet pattern states
differently, but not into the starting slip knot (see illustration 16b). Be sure that you do not skip that
last chain at the end.

WORKING ROW 1: How to Single Crochet Row 1

We will now begin working Row 1 of single crochet.
Step 1: Make a slip knot and chain 6. Skip the first chain from the crochet hook, insert hook in the
second chain through the center of the V and under the back bar of the chain. Bring the yarn over
the hook from back to front (see illustration 17).

Draw yarn through chain and up onto the working area of the crochet hook. You now have two loops
on the hook (see illustration 18).

Step 2: Again, bring the yarn over the hook from back to front, and draw it through both loops on the
crochet hook (see illustration 19).

One loop will remain on the hook; you have made one single crochet (see illustration 20).

Step 3: Insert hook in the next chain as before, hook the yarn from back to front and draw it through
the chain stitch. Yarn over again and draw through both loops. It is important to know that the terms
hook the yarn and yarn over have the same meaning. In both instances, you will bring the yarn
over the hook from back to front.
Repeat step 3 in each remaining chain, taking care to work in the last chain, but not in the slip knot.
Remember, as you work, to be careful not to twist the chain; keep all the Vs facing you. You have
completed one row of single crochet and should now have five stitches in the row (see illustration
21).

WORKING ROW 2: How to Single Crochet Row 2

To work the second row of single crochet, you need to turn the work counterclockwise, as shown in
illustration 22a, so you can work back across the first row.
Do not remove the crochet hook from the loop as you do this (see illustration 22b). Now you need to
bring the yarn up to the correct height to work the first stitch. So, to raise the yarn, chain 1 (this is
called a turning chain).

This row and all the following rows of single crochet will be worked into a previous row of single
crochet, not into the beginning chain as you did before. Remember that when you worked into the
starting chain, you inserted the crochet hook through the center of the V and under the bar. This is
only done when working into a starting chain.
The first single crochet of the row is worked in the last stitch of the previous row (see illustration 23),
not into the beginning chain.

Insert hook in the last stitch of the previous row under top 2 loops, bring theyarn over the hook from
back to front and draw yarn through stitch and up onto the working area of the crochet hook. You
now have two loops on the hook. Again, bring the yarn over the hook from back to front and draw it
through both loops on the crochet hook.
Work a single crochet into each single crochet to the end, taking care to work in each stitch,
especially the last stitch, which is easy to miss (see illustration 24).

Lets stop now and count your stitches; you should still have five single crochets on the row (see
illustration 25).

You can continue practicing or fasten off.

FASTENING OFF
After the last stitch, cut the yarn, leaving a 6-inch end. As you do when you take your crochet hook
out for a break, draw the hook straight up, but this time draw the cut yarn end completely through
the stitch. Pull the 6-inch end tight to close.

WORKING ROW 1: How to Double Crochet in Row 1

Step 1: Make a slip knot and chain 14. Bring the yarn over the hook from back to front, skip the first
three chains from the hook and then insert the hook in the fourth chain (see illustration 26).

Step 2: Bring the yarn over the crochet hook from back to front and draw it through the chain stitch
and up onto the working area of the hook; you now have three loops on the hook (see illustration
27).

Step 3: Bring the yarn over the crochet hook from back to front and draw through the first two loops
on the hook (see illustration 28). You now have two loops on the hook (see illustration 29).

Step 4: Bring the yarn over the crochet hook from back to front and draw through both loops on the
hook (see illustration 30).

You have now completed one double crochet; one loop remains on the hook (see illustration 31).

Continue working one double crochet in each remaining chain across.

After working in each chain across, count your double crochet stitches. There should be 12 of them,
counting the first three chain stitches you skipped at the beginning of the row as a double crochet
(see illustration 32).

Turn your work counterclockwise and we will begin working row 2.

WORKING ROW 2: How to Double Crochet in Row 2

To work row 2, you need to bring the yarn or thread up to the correct height for the next row. To
raise the yarn, chain 3 (this is called the turning chain).
The three chains in the turning chain just made count as the first double crochet of the new row so
skip the first double crochet and work a double crochet in the second stitch. Be sure to insert
the crochet hook under top two loops of the stitch; illustrations 33a and 33b indicate the correct and
incorrect placement of this stitch.

We will continue to work a double crochet in each remaining stitch across the previous row; at the
end of each row, be sure to work the last double crochet in the top of the three skipped chains from
the previous row. Be sure to insert the crochet hook in the center of the V (and back bar) of the top
chain of the third chain of beginning chain (illustration 34). Stop and count your double crochets;
there should be 12 stitches.

You can continue practicing or fasten off.

FASTENING OFF
After the last stitch, cut the yarn, leaving a 6-inch end. As you do when you take your crochet hook
out for a break, draw the hook straight up, but this time draw the cut yarn end completely through
the stitch. Pull the 6-inch end to close.

WORKING ROW 1: How to Half Double Crochet in Row 1

Step 1: First make a slip knot and chain 13. Bring the yarn once over thecrochet hook from back to
front, skip the first two chains and then insert the hook in the third chain from the hook (see
illustration 35).

Remember not to count the loop on the hook as a chain.

Step 2: Bring the yarn over the crochet hook and draw it through the chain stitch and up onto the
working area of the hook. You now have three loops on the hook (see illustration 36).

Step 3: Bring the yarn over the crochet hook and draw it though all three loops on the hook in one
motion (see illustration 37).

You have completed one half double crochet; one loop remains on the hook (see illustration 38).

To finish the row, continue to work one half double crochet in each remaining chain across the row.
Now that we have completed the row, you should stop and count your stitches. You should have 12
half double crochets, counting the first two chains you skipped at the beginning of the row as a half
double crochet (see illustration 39). Turn your work counterclockwise.

WORKING ROW 2: How to Half Double Crochet in Row 2

To work row 2, you need to bring the yarn or thread up to the correct height for the next row. To
raise the yarn, chain two (this is called the turning chain). Like double crochet, the turning chain
counts as a stitch in half double crochet unless your pattern specifies otherwise.
Chain 2, skip the first half double crochet of the previous row; be sure to insert the crochet hook
under top two loops of the stitch, work a half double crochet in the second stitch (see illustration 40)
and in each remaining stitch across the previous row.

You can continue practicing or fasten off. If you are continuing on, remember to chain 2 before your
first half double crochet.

FASTENING OFF
After the last stitch, cut the yarn, leaving a 6-inch end. As you do when you take your crochet
hook out for a break, draw the hook straight up, but this time draw the cut yarn end completely
through the stitch. Pull the 6-inch end to close.

WORKING ROW 1: How to Treble Crochet in Row 1

Step 1: First make a slip knot and chain 15 stitches loosely. Wrap the yarnaround the crochet hook
from back to front twice, skip the first four chains and then insert the hook into the fifth chain from
the hook (see illustration 41).

Step 2: Bring the yarn over the crochet hook (from back to front) and draw it through the chain stitch
and up onto the working area of the hook; you now have four loops on the hook (see illustration 42).

Step 3: Bring the yarn over the crochet hook and draw it through the first two loops on the hook (see
illustration 43a).You now have three loops on the hook (see illustration 43b).

Step 4: Bring the yarn over the crochet hook again and draw it through the next two loops on the
hook (see illustration 44a). Two loops remain on the hook (see illustration 44b).

Step 5: Bring the yarn over the crochet hook and draw it through both remaining loops on the hook
(see illustration 45).

You now have completed one treble crochet; one loop remains on the hook (see illustration 46).

Continue working the 5 steps in each of the remaining chains across. When you have worked your
last chain, count your stitches: there should be 12 treble crochets, counting the first four chains you
skipped at the beginning of the row as a treble crochet (see illustration 47);

Turn your work counterclockwise and we will begin working row 2.

WORKING ROW 2: How to Treble Crochet in Row 2

To work row 2, you need to bring the yarn or thread up to the correct height for the next row. To
raise the yarn, chain four (this is called the turning chain). The four chains in the turning chain just
made count as the first treble crochet on the new row. Skip the first stitch and work a treble crochet
in the second stitch (see illustration 48). Be sure to insert the crochet hook under top two loops of
each stitch.

We will continue to work a treble crochet in each remaining stitch across the previous row; be sure
to work the last treble crochet in the top of the beginning chain from the previous row. Stop and
count your treble crochets; there should be 12 stitches.

You can continue practicing or fasten off.

FASTENING OFF
After the last stitch, cut the yarn, leaving a 6-inch end. As you do when you take your crochet
hook out for a break, draw the hook straight up, but this time draw the cut yarn end completely
through the stitch. Pull the 6-inch end to close.
The slip stitch is the shortest of all crochet stitches and is really more a technique than a stitch. Slip
stitches are usually used to move yarn across a group of stitches without adding height, or they may
be used to join work when working in rounds.
First we will demonstrate how to use the slip stitch to move yarn across stitches.
We will begin by chaining 10.
Row 1: To work row 1, we will be using the double crochet stitch and will double crochet in the
fourth chain from the crochet hook and in each chain across. To begin the double crochet, yarn over
the hook from back to front, insert the hook in the fourth chain from hook, yarn over again and draw
it through the chain stitch and up onto the working area of the hook; you should have three loops on
the hook. Yarn over and draw though the first two loops on the hook. You now have two loops on
the hook. Yarn over and draw through both loops on the hook. One double crochet is completed and
six more to go. Turn work.
On the next row, you are going to slip stitch across the first four stitches before beginning to work
double crochet again.

Row 2: To work row 2, instead of making three chains for the turning chain as you would usually do
for a second row of double crochet, this time just chain one. The turning chain-one does not count
as a stitch; therefore, insert the crochet hookunder both loops of the first stitch, yarn over and draw
the yarn through both loops of the stitch and loop on the hook (see illustration 49); one slip stitch
made.

We will now work a slip stitch in the same manner in each of the next three stitches.
Now were going to finish the row in double crochet; first you will chain 3 to get yarn at the right
height (the chain 3 counts as a double crochet), then work a double crochet in each of the remaining
stitches.
You can see that we moved the yarn across with slip stitches and added very little height (see
illustration 50).

How to Use a Slip Stitch to Join a Chain Into a Circle:

Next, we will demonstrate how to use a slip stitch to join a chain into a circle. Knowing how to join a
chain into a circle is important as it is the way many hats and motifs, such as granny squares, are
started.
We will begin by chaining 6. Next, you will insert the crochet hook through the first chain you made
which is next to the slip knot (see illustration 51).

Yarn over and draw it through the chain and through the loop on hook; you have now joined six
chains into a circle or a ring.

How to Use a Slip Stitch to Join the End of a Round to the Beginning
of the Same Round:
Next, we will demonstrate how use a slip stitch to join the end of one round to the beginning of the
same round.
We will begin by chaining 6. Next, you will join the chain 6 with a slip stitch in the first chain you
made to form the ring. We will now chain 3, and will then work 11 double crochet into the center of
the ring. To double crochet, first bring yarn over the crochet hook from back to front, then insert
the crochet hook in the middle of the ring; yarn over again and draw it through the loop and up onto
the working area of the hook. You now have three loops on the hook. Yarn over and draw through
the first two loops on the crochet hook, yarn over and draw through the remaining two loops on the
crochet hook. You have now completed the first double crochet. We will do this 10 more times.
Insert the crochet hook into the third chain of the beginning chain 3 (see illustration 52). Yarn over
and draw it through the chain and through the loop on the hook; you have now joined the round of
double crochets.

Lesson 11: How to Join Yarn

How to Crochet & Basic Stitches

To add a new skein join new yarn at the end of a row whenever possible. To do this, work the last
stitch with the old yarn until two loops remain on the hook, then with the new yarn complete the
stitch.

To join new yarn in the middle of a row, when about 36 inches of the old yarn remains, work several
more stitches with the old yarn, working the stitches over the end of new yarn (shown in double
crochet). Then change yarns in stitch as previously explained.

Working the front or back loops only of a crochet stitch will leave a horizontal bar exposed on the
fabric. When working in the back or front loop the crochet fabric becomes more elastic than the
traditional way of working under both loops. You can crochet in the front or back loop only of any
crochet stitch.
The crochet fabric piece shown here demonstrates crocheting in the traditional manner under both
loops, and the front and back loop of single crochet stitches using double crochet stitches.

Traditional Crochet Hook Placement

When working a traditional crochet stitch you insert the crochet hook from the front of the chain,
through the center of the V and under the corresponding bar on the back of the same stitch. You
can see that it is below the front and back loops.

Working in the back loop

To crochet in the back loop of a stitch, insert your crochet hook underneath the back loop only and
make the stitch as indicated in your pattern.

Working in the front loop

To crochet in the front loop of a stitch, insert your crochet hook underneath the front loop only and
make the stitch as indicated in your pattern.

KNITTING
The first thing you have to do when you start a knitting project is to get some stitches on your needle -this is called Casting On. Learning several different ways to cast on lets you choose which one to use.
Some methods produce a firm, stable edge and others a soft, elastic edge.

Make a slip knot on the right knitting needle. Place the

thumb and index finger of your left hand between the yarn
ends with the long yarn end over your thumb, and the strand
from the skein over your index finger. Close your other
fingers over the strands to hold them against your palm.
Spread your thumb and index fingers apart and draw the
yarn into a v. Place the knitting needle in front of the
strand around your thumb and bring it underneath this
strand. Carry the knitting needle over and under the strand
on your index finger. Draw through the loop on your thumb.
Drop the loop from your thumb and draw up the strand to
form a stitch on the knitting needle. Repeat until you have
cast on the number of stitches indicated in the pattern.

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Pick up the working yarn with your left hand and create a loop. Twist the loop around a half turn to the
right. Put the loop on the knitting needle and pull the working yarn to tighten. Repeat until you have

cast on the number of stitches indicated in the pattern.

Make a slip knot on the left knitting needle. Knit a stitch in the loop and place it on the left knitting
needle. Insert the right knitting needle between the last two stitches on the left knitting needle. Knit a
stitch and place it on the left knitting needle. Repeat until you have cast on the number of stitches
indicated in the pattern.

Make a slip knot on the left knitting needle. Knit a stitch in the loop and place it on the left knitting

needle. Repeat until you have cast on the number of stitches indicated in the pattern.

How to Cast On

Using waste yarn and a crochet hook the same size as the project knitting needle, make a chain that
has a few more stitches than the number of stitches to be cast on. Cut the waste yarn and knot the
cut end. Using a knitting needle, pick up and knit a stitch in the back "bump" of each chain stitch
until the required number of stitches is on the knitting needle. When the pattern indicates, remove
the waste yarn. Starting at the knotted end of the crochet chain, undo a loop of the crochet chain
and insert the knitting needle into the stitch that has been freed (this stitch is on the original first row
of knitting). Continue to undo the crochet chain until all the stitches are on the needle.

KNIT
With yarn in back, insert the tip of the right knitting needle from front to back into the next
stitch on the left knitting needle. Bring the yarn under and over the tip of the right knitting
needle, pull the loop through the stitch. Slide the stitch off the left knitting needle.

PURL

With yarn in back, insert the tip of the right knitting needle
from front to back into the next stitch on the left knitting
needle. Bring the yarn under and over the tip of the right
knitting needle, pull the loop through the stitch. Slide the
stitch off the left knitting needle.

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Binding Off is a process by which stitches are removed from the knitting needles
in a secure way so that the knitted fabric will not unravel.

Knit the first two stitches on the left knitting needle. Insert the tip of the left knitting needle into the
first stitch worked on the right knitting needle. With the left knitting needle, lift the first stitch over the
second stitch and off the right knitting needle. Knit the next stitch and repeat. When one stitch
remains on the right knitting needle, cut the yarn and draw the tail through the last stitch to fasten
off.

Purl the first two stitches on the left knitting needle. Insert the tip of the left knitting needle into the
first stitch worked on the right knitting needle. With the left knitting needle, lift the first stitch over the
second stitch and off the right knitting needle. Purl the next stitch and repeat. When one stitch
remains on the right knitting needle, cut the yarn and draw the tail through the last stitch to fasten
off.

Hold the two knitting needles with the stitches to be joined with tips facing to the right and with the
right sides of the fabric facing each other. With a third knitting needle, knit together a stitch from the
front knitting needle with one from the back knitting needle. Repeat, knit a stitch from the front

knitting needle with one from the back knitting needle. Pass the first stitch on the right knitting
needle over the second stitch. Continue knitting a front and back pair of stitches together, then
binding one off, until all stitches have been joined and bound off.

Cut the working yarn, leaving a tail about 3-4 times the length of the row you are binding off. Thread
the end of the yarn through the eye of a tapestry needle. *Insert the tapestry needle through the first
two stitches on the left knitting needle as if to purl. Pull the yarn through. Insert the tapestry needle
through the first stitch on the left knitting needle as if to knit. Pull the yarn through and slip the stitch
off the needle. Repeat from * until all stitches have been bound off.

Increasing adds stitches to those already on the knitting needle, making the fabric wider.
(YO)

Bring yarn to front and over top of right knitting needle. Knit the next stitch.

Bring yarn over top of right knitting needle and then to front again. Purl the next stitch.

(KFB)

Knit the next stitch but do not remove the stitch from the left knitting needle. Insert the right knitting
needle behind the left knitting needle and knit again into the back of the same stitch. Slip the original

stitch off the left knitting needle.

(PFB)

Purl the next stitch but do not remove the stitch from the left knitting needle. Insert the right knitting
needle behind the left knitting needle and purl again into the back of the same stitch. Slip the original
stitch off the left knitting needle.

(M1)

With your thumb, make a backward loop over the right knitting needle. Slip the loop onto the knitting
needle and pull to tighten.

Make 1 With Left Twist (M1L)

Insert the left knitting needle from front to back under the strand that runs between the stitch on the
right knitting needle and the stitch on the left knitting needle. With the right knitting needle, knit into
the back of the loop on the left knitting needle.

Make 1 With Left Twist Purl Side

Insert the left knitting needle from front to back under the strand that runs between the stitch on the
right needle and the stitch on the left needle. With the right knitting needle, purl into the back of the
loop on the left knitting needle.

Make 1 With Right Twist (M1R)

Insert the left knitting needle from back to front under the strand that runs between the stitch on the
right knitting needle and the stitch on the left knitting needle. With the knitting right needle, purl into
the front of the loop on the left knitting needle.

Make 1 With Right Twist Purl Side

Insert the left needle from back to front under the strand that runs between the stitch on the right
needle and the stitch on the left needle. With the right needle, purl into the front of the loop on the
left needle.

Insert the tip of the right knitting needle in the top of the stitch in the row below the next stitch on the
left knitting needle. Knit into this stitch, and then knit the next stitch on the left knitting needle.

Insert the tip of the left knitting needle into the top of the stitch two rows below the first stitch on the
right knitting needle. Knit into this stitch, and then knit the stitch on the left knitting needle.

Decreasing removes stitches from those already on the knitting needle, making the fabric narrower.
Insert the tip of the right knitting needle through the next two stitches on the left knitting needle as if
to knit. Knit these two stitches together as one.

Insert the tip of the right knitting needle through the next two stitches on the left knitting needle as if
to purl. Purl these two stitches together as one.

(SSK)

Slip the next two stitches, one at a time, from the left knitting needle to the right knitting needle as if
to knit. Insert the tip of the left knitting needle through both slipped stitches in front of the right
knitting needle. Knit these two stitches together.

(SSP)
Slip the next two stitches, one at a time, from the left knitting needle to the right knitting needle as if to
knit. Slip these stitches back to the left knitting needle keeping them twisted. Purl these two stitches
together through their back loops.

(SKP)
Slip the next stitch to the right knitting needle as if to knit. Knit the next stitch on the left knitting
needle. Insert the left knitting needle into the slipped stitch and pull it over the first stitch and off the

knitting needle.

(S2KP2) (CCD)

Slip the next two stitches from the left knitting needle to the right knitting needle as if to knit two
together. Knit the next stitch on the left knitting needle. Insert the left knitting needle into the two
slipped stitches and pull them over the first stitch and off the right knitting needle.

(DNP)

Using the long-tail method, cast on the required number of stitches. Evenly divide the stitches
between the knitting needles. Arrange the knitting needles to form a triangle, with the base down
and the point facing up. The stitches are at the inner edge of the triangle formed by the needles and
should not be twisted. Both the tail end and the end of yarn connected to the skein are at the end of
needle three.

Cast on the required number of stitches as you would onto a straight knitting needle. Spread the
stitches evenly across the circular knitting needle, being careful not to twist the stitches. Hold the
circular knitting needle so that the working end of the yarn is on the right-hand tip. Place a stitch
marker on the right-hand knitting needle tip to mark the beginning of the round. Knit the first stitch on
the left-hand knitting needle tip. Keep knitting the stitches, sliding them along the circular knitting
needle as you work them from left to right. When you reach the stitch marker, slip it to the right hand

knitting needle tip a continue knitting around for the required number of rounds.

How to Knit in the Round

Cast on the required number of stitches onto a 29-inch, or longer, circular knitting needle. Slide the
stitches to the cable portion of the circular knitting needle. Pinch the cable in half and then pull to
create a large loop. Arrange half the stitches on one knitting needle tip, and half on the other tip. Slip
the last cast-on stitch from the bottom knitting needle tip to the top knitting needle tip. Slip the first
cast-on stitch from the top knitting needle tip over the transferred stitch and onto the bottom knitting
needle tip. Hold the knitting needle in your left hand, and pull out the knitting needle tip that holds
the "tail end" so that the stitches that were on the needle tip are now resting on the cable. Begin
working the stitches that are still on the opposite knitting needle tip as if you were working on
straight knitting needles. At the end of the row, simply turn the work around and reposition the
stitches so that half the stitches to be worked are on the knitting needle tip and the other half are
resting on the knitting needle cable. Continue to work in this manner until desired length is reached.

Cast on the required number of stitches, dividing the stitches between two circular knitting needles.

Slip the last cast on stitch from the bottom knitting needle to the top knitting needle. Slip the first cast
on stitch from the top knitting needle over the transferred stitch and onto the bottom knitting needle.
Adjust the stitches so that the non working stitches are on the cable of the bottom knitting needle
and the working stitches are on the top knitting needle. Work all stitches across the top knitting
needle. Turn your work so that the top knitting needle is now on the bottom and the newly worked
stitches are resting on the cable and the bottom knitting needle is on the top holding the stitches that
are to be worked. Continue until desired length is achieved.

Jogless Join

How to Knit in the Round

When changing colors, knit the entire first round with the new color,
stopping at the beginning-of-round stitch marker. Slip the first stitch of
the second round of the new color purlwise, and then continue knitting
around.

Learn Knit
Kitchener Stitch

How to Weave, Graft and Sew in Knitting

Insert the tapestry needle into the first stitch on the front
knitting needle as if to purl. Draw the yarn through the stitch,
leaving the stitch on the knitting needle. Insert the tapestry
needle into the first stitch on the back needle as if to purl. Slip
the stitch off the knitting needle. Insert the tapestry needle into
the next stitch on the back knitting needle as if to knit, leaving
the stitch on the knitting needle; pull the yarn through. Insert the
tapestry needle into the first stitch on the front knitting needle
as if to knit, and then slip the stitch off the knitting needle. Insert
the tapestry needle into the next stitch on the front needle as if
to purl, leaving the stitch on the needle. Pull the yarn through.

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Mattress Stitch Seam

How to Weave, Graft and Sew in Knitting

Hold the two pieces parallel with the right sides of the fabric facing you and cast-on edge at the
bottom. Insert the tapestry needle from back to front between the first two stitches, just above the
cast-on stitch; pull the yarn through, leaving a 3-inch tail. Insert the needle from front to back
between the first stitch and second stitches of the second piece and pull the yarn through. Return to
the first piece and insert the needle from the right side to wrong side where the yarn previously
came out of the piece. Slip the needle upward under the next horizontal bar and bring the needle
through to the right side. Cross to the other side and repeat the same process, going down where
you came out, under one bar and up. Continue until seam is complete, pulling seam closed every
inch or so. Weave in the tail. Use the beginning tail to even-up the lower edge by working a figure 8
between the cast-on stitches at the corners. Insert the threaded tapestry needle from front to back
under both threads of the corner cast-on stitch on the edge opposite the tail, then into the same
stitch on the first edge. Pull gently until the 8 fills the gap.

Invisible Horizontal Seam

How to Weave, Graft and Sew in Knitting

Hold the two pieces of fabric parallel to each other with right sides facing and cast-on edge at the
bottom. Insert the tapestry needle from the back to the front between the first two stitches on the first
piece of fabric just above the cast-on stitch. Pull the yarn through, leaving a 3-inch tail. Insert the
tapestry needle from the front to the back between the first two stitches of the second piece of fabric
and pull the yarn through. Return to the first piece of fabric and insert the tapestry needle from the
right side to wrong side where the yarn comes out of the piece. Slip the tapestry needle upward
under two horizontal stands and bring the needle through to the right side. Cross to the other side
and repeat the same process, going down where you came out, under two strands and up. Continue

working back and forth on the two pieces in the same manner for about an inch, and then gently pull
on the yarn to snug the two pieces together. Continue until seam is complete, pulling seam closed
every inch or so. Weave in the tail. Use the beginning tail to even-up the lower edge by working a
figure 8 between the cast-on stitches at the corners. Insert the threaded needle from front to back
under both threads of the corner cast-on stitch on the edge opposite the tail, then into the same
stitch on the first edge. Pull gently until the 8 fills the gap.

Vertical to Horizontal Seam

How to Weave, Graft and Sew in Knitting

To sew a vertical edge to a horizontal edge, use a combination of the mattress stitch (vertical
seaming method) and the horizontal seaming method. Work across one piece of fabric vertically,
picking up the bars, and across the other piece horizontally, working under the point of the vs.
Loosely pin the pieces together before you begin. Since there are more rows to the inch than
stitches, youll need to accommodate that difference so that the edge does not cause one side to
pucker. When working stockinette stitch, for every third v point you pick up, pick up 2 bars rather
than one. For garter stitch, you will usually be seaming one horizontal ridge" to 1 stitch. For other
stitch patterns, pinning the two pieces together will give you a good sense of how youll need to ease
the two pieces together.

Thread a tapestry needle with the yarn tail, and run the yarn tail through the back loops of the
stitches, working diagonally along the piece. Weave at least two inches in one direction and then
another two inches in the other directions. Gently pull the fabric a bit to even the stitches out, and
then cut off the end of the yarn tail.

Attached I Cord

Specialized Knitting Techniques

At the end of the row, cast on four stitches to the left knitting needle. Knit the first three I-cord
stitches, and then work an skp decrease, joining the last I-cord stitch with the first stitch of the main
fabric. Repeat until all the stitches across the main fabric have been bound off. To turn the corner,
work three rows of unattached I-cord. To attach the i-cord along the vertical edge knit three, slip one
knit-wise, knit one stitch from the main fabric edge, and pass the slipped stitch over. Repeat.

To turn a cable to the left, slip stitches onto a cable knitting needle and hold the stitches in front of
the work. Knit the next stitches on the left knitting needle, and then knit the stitches from the cable
knitting needle to complete the cable turn.

Right Turn

To turn a cable to the right, slip stitches onto a cable knitting needle and hold the stitches in back of
the work. Knit the next stitches on the left knitting needle, and then knit the stitches from the cable
knitting needle to complete the cable turn.
Specialized Knitting Techniques
Appearance in pattern - Dup
With a tapestry needle, bring the yarn from the back to the front of the fabric at the base of the stitch
that is to be duplicated. Insert the tapestry needle from right to left behind both sides of the stitch
above the one being duplicated. Complete the stitch by inserting the needle into point at which the
yarn first came through to the front and pull it back to the wrong side. Repeat as necessary to work
additional duplicate stitches in desired locations.

Fringe

Specialized Knitting Techniques

Cut a piece of cardboard half as long as specified in instructions for strands plus 1/2 inch for
trimming. Wind yarn loosely and evenly around cardboard. When cardboard is filled, cut yarn across
one end. Do this several times then begin fringing. Wind additional strands as necessary.
Single Knot Fringe
Hold specified number of strands for one knot together, fold in half. Hold project to be fringed with
right side facing you. Use crochet hook to draw folded end through space or stitch indicated from
right to wrong side. Pull loose ends through folded section. Draw knot up firmly. Space knots as
indicated in pattern instructions.
Double Knot Fringe
Begin by working single knot fringe completely across one end of piece. With right side facing you
and working from left to right, take half the strands of one knot and half the strands of the knot next
to it and knot them together.
Triple Knot Fringe
Work double knot fringe across. On the right side, work from left to right tying a third row of knots.
Spaghetti Fringe
Following single knot fringe instructions, tie each knot with just one strand of yarn.

I CORD

Using double-point knitting needles and the backwards-loop method, cast on the desired number of
stitches. Knit across, do not turn; Slide stitches to opposite end of double-point knitting needle,
pulling working yarn tightly across the back of the piece. Knit across; do not turn. Repeat until i-cord
measures desired length. Bind off or cut yarn and pull end through stitches

INTARSIA

In certain patterns there are larger areas of color within the piece. Since this type of pattern requires
a new color only for that section, it is not necessary to carry the yarn back and forth across the back
of the fabric. For this type of color work, use a separate ball, bobbin or "butterfly" of yarn for each
color so that each color is available only where needed. In order to prevent holes when changing
colors, bring the new color around the old color from beneath to twist the yarns.

PICK UP N KNIT

With the right side of the fabric facing you and working one stitch in from edge, insert the tip of the
knitting needle in the space between the first and second stitches. Wrap the yarn around the needle.
Pull the loop through to the front. Repeat until you have picked up the number of stitches indicated
in the pattern.

SLIP 1 KNITWISE

Insert the tip of the right knitting needle in the next stitch on the left knitting needle from front to back
as if to knit. Slide the stitch off the left knitting needle onto the right knitting needle.

SL ST SLIP

Insert the tip of the right knitting needle in the next stitch on the left knitting needle from back to front
as if to purl. Slide the stitch off the left knitting needle onto the right knitting needle.

K1 TBL
With yarn in back, insert the right knitting needle through the back loop of the next stitch on
the left needle, then complete as a knit stitch.
Specialized Knitting Techniques

Step 1: Knit one stitch, then yarn over twice as shown with the lighter-colored yarn.

Step 2: Work across row, dropping yarn overs to create an elongated stitch as shown
with the lighter colored yarn in the illustration below.

Specialized Knitting Techniques

Zippers can easily be added to a knit garment. Different weights of garments need
different weight zippers. Heavy separating zippers are used on jackets and cardigans,
while regular dressmaking zippers are used for neck or skirt openings.
The zipper should be sewn in by hand using a backstitch through both the zipper and
knit piece.
To add a zipper, place the knit edges over the zipper so the zipper teeth are covered
and the seam is centered over the zipper. From the right side, pin in place.
On the wrong side tack the edges of the zipper to the garment.

Turn to the right side and backstitch the zipper in place.

P1 TBL
With yarn in front, insert the right knitting needle through the back loop of the next stitch on the
left needle, then complete as a purl stitch.