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FISHING TIPS
ELASTIC
STRENGTH
HOOK
SIZE
HOOK LENGTH
SECTIONS
2
3
4
5
6
8
10+
24-26
22-24
20-22
18-20
16-20
14-18
14+
0.06 mm
0.06 - 0.08 mm
0.08 - 0.09 mm
0.08 - 0.10 mm
0.08 - 0.10 mm
0.10 - 0.12 mm
0.12 mm+
1
1 or 2
2
2
2 or 3
2 or 3
3
TIP
You will need something to help you thread your elastic through the hollow carbon top sections of your pole. You can use a piece of
wire or thick (20lb plus) line, or you can buy a 'diamond eye threader' from the tackle shop which is made for the job. The elastic locks
into the diamond-shaped bit. 'Bushes' fit to the end of your pole. They are made of soft PTFE over which the elastic can easily slide
without sticking and without any damage. The size you choose must suit the elastic. 'Internal' bushes fit inside the pole's hollow tip but
require you to cut the pole tip back considerably and thus are not a good choice for the thicker elastics. 'External' bushes are more
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popular and are easier to fit, and you don't have to cut back as much of the tip as you do when fitting an internal bush. Both bushes
and connectors are available in many colours these can be matched to the elastic colour if you want. Bushes cost a couple of pounds
depending on size/brand. Connectors fit the rig to the elastic. Stick with 'stonfo' connectors if you are quite new to pole-fishing. Most
of the connectors on the market are pretty good. Connectors should cost you about a 1+ each. The elastic runs inside the pole from
the connector to a 'bung', which fits inside the pole and locks there. The size of bung you need will depend on whether you are fitting
the elastic into one, two or three sections of the pole. Standard bungs are quite reasonably priced, preferences; the blue Preston and
MAP bungs and the black Mayer ones. Some bungs also allow you to alter the tension once the elastic is fitted, and these would be a
choice. Especially the VESPE bung, which allows you to wind on quite a bit of elastic which can be useful if the elastic starts hanging
out of the pole during fishing.
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SELECTING TACKLE
Generally speaking, you should set the rig so that there is quite a lot of line between the pole tip and the float, as this allows you to run
the float through plenty of the swim. If it is windy, you should use a number 8 back-shot positioned three inches (7.6cm) above the float
to pull the line behind the float under the water. Pole floats designed for river fishing have a 'body- up' shape, which means that the
bulk of the shape is towards the bristle (the top end of the float). This shape is designed to allow the angler to hold the float back
against the flow of the river without it dragging under. It 'rides' the flow. The other big advantage of the pole is the elastic, which runs
through the centre of the top 2-3 sections. It acts as a cushion and allows you to use fine, pre-stretched lines without fear of being
broken off. Pole elastic is available in variety of different, numbered, breaking strains. Unless the flow is particularly fast, a No 3 or No
4 elastic is suitable for most situations. The faster the flow and the deeper the water, the bigger the elastic you will need to set the
hook and to play the fish with some degree of control. If there are a lot of big fish around, like chub and barbel, the pole is the wrong
method to use and the correct tackle would be a conventional rod and running line set-up. If the fish are feeding on the bottom, a wirestemmed, body-up float shorted up with an olivette and a couple of dropper shot is ideal. If the fish are higher up in the water, it is
better to use a cane-stemmed float with the shot strung out. For general fishing an ideal rig can be made up using 2lb (0.9kg)
breaking strain line attached to a 1.5lb (0.7kg) hooklength. When loosefeeding, remember to feed upstream of the float so that the
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feed arrives at the bottom where your hook bait is. Hemp and bronze maggot are two excellent pole-fishing baits to use on rivers, and
you should remember that if you are feeding both, you should feed the maggot further upstream of the float than the hemp, as the
hemp sinks faster. You should try to get all the loosefeed to hit the river bottom in the same area.
TELESCOPIC RODS
Many Anglers associate telescopic rods with either beginner or holiday outfits, but this shouldn't be the case. With the advent of
superior quality carbon there are some superb telescopic float rods available, plus there is a new breed of telescopic long rods on
the market for both river and commercial carp water use. The Italians are masters of long telescopic rods using six, seven or eight
metre versions when fishing deep rivers. But this style of rod has found its place on many English commercial carp fisheries where
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the average size of carp has become too large to land when using a pole. Using a long rod gives far better control over a hardfighting, double figure carp than a pole can ever give. The telescopic carp rod has now progressed even further and you can now get
a superb Carptek Power Bob - a telescopic, multi-length rod which can be used at its full length of 7.75m or compressed to 5m using
the innovative, sliding, lockable butt sections. The average standard telescopic float rod tends to be either 12 or 13ft and features far
less line guides than a put together float rod. The reason for this is simply because the sections need to collapse within each other
and therefore there can only be a line guide whipped to the end of each section. There may be two or three line guides on the very tip
section, with the tip guide itself whipped to the blank while the remaining tip guides will have to be slipped down the blank and
aligned into position.
LINE GUIDES
A line guide's main purpose is to ensure the rod bends through a smooth curve when a fish is hooked. The rings should be spaced
along the rod's length so as to create a curve in the rod when the line, be it monofilament or braid, is placed under stress. You will find
there are a lot more guides on either a waggler or quivertip rod when compared to a specimen rod. This is purely because waggler
or float rods are softer in the sections and therefore require a lot more guides to ensure the line follows the rod's bend as force is
applied to the blank. When a fish is played to the net immense pressure is placed upon the guides. The line continually rubs back and
forth through the guides and this sawing action creates a great deal of friction and therefore heat. The simplest of line guides, those
being constructed from a ring of stainless steel, retain a great deal of heat within the guide. This may lead to the outer coating of line
melting. Ideally the heat should disperse through the guide to prevent this, and lined guides serve this purpose perfectly. The likes of
RDX Slimline, Hardlon, Fuji Hard, Fuji Match, Fuji SiC and Fuji High Grade Alumina are all lined. Their one-piece frames are
constructed from either plated brass or stainless steel and feature a highly polished ring in the centre. This ring helps disperse any
heat caused through friction, ultimately sending the heat into the metal framework, well away from the line or braid. Early lined guides
featured a ceramic centre, but there are now guides which feature Alumina Oxide or Silicon Carbide (SiC) linings. Of these two
examples the SiC lined guides are superior. The frames of the two versions are similar, but the SiC linings are harder and polished
to a higher degree so therefore they allow a better, smoother flow of line upon the cast, plus heat is dispersed slightly faster too. But
SiC guides do have a drawback - they are very brittle so a rod adorned with these luxurious and expensive guides should be treated
with extreme care. Even the slightest crack in a Silicon Carbide guide, a crack which cannot even be detected by the naked eye, will
produce a razor sharp edge ultimately resulting in line failure.
ROD ACTIONS
Like all fishing rods, float rods have one of three actions, they being; tip (fast), middle and butt (through) actions. These actions
describe the bend that the rod takes on when its tip is pulled through a 90degree angle. Regardless of a rod's action every single
fishing rod is tapered from the butt through to the tip - it gets progressively slender in the diameter of the blank as you follow the rod
from the handle to the tip. But it is the wall thickness and the make-up of the materials used in the rod's construction that give the rod
its action. Spliced tip rods and extremely fine hollow tip match rods, in the main, have tip actions. The tips are so delicate and
slender that it takes very little weight to pull the rod through a 90degree angle, and in the case of tip action rods only the first two feet
or so of the rod will bend. Of course, as more pressure is exerted upon the tip the remainder of the rod will begin to bend. Middle
action rods, when enough force is applied to take the rod through 90 degrees, will bend from the tip section through to the middle of
the rod. Butt action rods, often referred to as through action, bend right through to the handle of the rod. When bent so the tip is set
90 degrees to the butt the rod will look like a boomerang!
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BLANK MATERIALS
You'll find that the vast majority of float rods available are made up using one of two compounds, they being either carbon or
composite. When compared like for like a carbon rod will be lighter, stiffer, thinner and more powerful than a composite rod of the
same length, but a composite rod offers more flexibility through the blank. A carbon rod blank is made up using both carbon and a
resin. The resin is used to hold the rod together, and the contents of an average carbon float rod will be in the region of 70 per cent
carbon and 30 per cent resin. The lower the amount of resin used the lighter the carbon rod will be, but by the same token the rod will
lose some of its flexibility and overall strength. Composite rods also incorporate a small amount of carbon within the construction
process purely to reduce the rod's overall weight, but a huge percentage of glass fibre is used too, plus around 30 per cent resin to
bond the two compounds together. Glass fibre is an extremely flexible material, hence the reason behind using glass fibre quivertips
when fishing for shy biting species as the compound bends freely. Carbon, in its natural state, is a very brittle and fibrous material. It
only becomes rigid and flexible when mixed with resin. There are three different styles of rod joints, they being spigot, put over and
telescopic. Spigot joints feature a length of solid carbon, half of which is glued securely into the end of the male rod section. This
solid length of carbon is then inserted into the next section to form a strong link. Rod sections which feature put over joints have a
large enough diameter to allow the next rod piece to be inserted inside the first. This style of join is far stronger than put in joints,
some 50 per cent stronger, therefore a great deal of carp waggler rods utilise put over joints throughout. Finally, there are telescopic
joints. These lock together when the rod is extended because the sections are tapered. The outer diameter of a section is slightly
larger than the internal diameter of the next section. THE VAST majority of decent coarse fishing rods are now made from carbonfibre as no other material can compete with its combination of strength, rigidity and lightness. But that is just the start of it, as you can
buy rods from six to 20 feet (1.8 to 6m) long with as many different actions as there are species of coarse fish.
FLOAT RODS
Float rods tend to come in three sections of equal length and be 12 to 15 feet (3.7 to 4.6m) long and designed for use with lines of 241b (0.9-1.8kg) breaking strain. Rods for waggler fishing tend to have a hollow tip section and plenty of 'give' below, which allows
you to make long, sweeping strikes at a distance without the possible risk of snapping light hook lengths. If you do a lot of stick float
fishing you will require a different action. With this technique you have to hit lighting-fast bites from wary fish, such as roach, and
consequently stick float rods tend to be quite stiff up to the top two feet (60cm), allowing you to pick up line very quickly, but have a
soft tip 'spliced' in to absorb the initial force of fast strikes into fish at short distances. Unless you intend to concentrate on match or
specialist fishing, it is advisable to buy one float rod, and spend as much as you can afford on it. Overall, a hollow-tipped 13ft (4m)
match rod with a nice snappy action, but a forgiving top third, will suit most pleasure fishing situations you are likely to come across.
While there is no doubt that having exactly the right tool for the job is useful, the best advice for the newcomer is to keep things
simple.
LEGER RODS
Leger rods are generally two-piece rods measuring between 9 and 12 feet (2.7-3.7m) long and designed for use with lines of
between 3-61b (1.36-2.72kg) breaking strain. Most have either a screw thread or are hollow at the end, to accommodate the use of
screw- or push-in swingtips or quivertips for bite indication. They usually have quite a forgiving (bendy) top half, but have plenty of
power in the middle-to-lower section allowing you both to cast good distances and set hooks at that range.Some of the better leger
rods come with a selection of quivertips, and these are the best buy for the beginner. These tips will be of different strengths,
measured by their test curve (the amount of dead weight it takes to pull the tip of the rod to an angle of 90 degrees to the handle) in
ounces. A 2-3oz tip is stiff and designed to be used on fastish-flowing rivers, while 0.5-1oz tips are more suited to stillwater fishing.
SPECIALIST RODS
These two-piece rods of 11 to 13 feet (3.4-4m) length are measured by their test curve. They are designed for casting big baits and
dealing with big fish, and tend to have much larger rings than leger and float rods. An ideal all-round choice for close-to-medium
range fishing would be a l2ft (3.7m), 21b (0.9kg) test curve rod with a medium to tip action, which means there is plenty of give in the
top half of the rod to enjoy the fight of a big fish, but plenty of backbone in the lower half to allow you to cast big baits and bully fish
away from snags.
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