Merged PDF

Lonely Planet Publications
Contents
The Authors
12
Getting Started
14
Itineraries
18
Snapshot
23
History
24
The Culture
33
Food & Drink
45
Environment
52
Diving in the
Philippines
59
Manila
69
History
Orientation
Information
Dangers & Annoyances
Sights
Activities
Tours
Festivals & Events
Sleeping
Eating
Drinking
Entertainment
Shopping
Getting There & Away
Getting Around
70
70
71
75
75
85
88
88
89
96
102
104
106
108
113
Around Manila
116
CORREGIDOR
Information
Sights & Activities
Sleeping & Eating
117
118
118
118

SOUTH OF MANILA
Las Pias
Cavite
Ternate
Nasugbu
Matabungkay
Lake Taal & Taal Volcano
Taal
Anilao
Batangas
Calamba
Los Baos
San Pablo
Alaminos Area
Pagsanjan
Lucban
Tayabas
Lucena
NORTH OF MANILA
Bataan Peninsula
Olongapo & Subic Bay
San Fernando (Pampanga)
Angeles & Clark Special
Economic Zone
Mt Pinatubo
Mt Arayat
North Luzon
118
118
118
119
119
119
119
120
123
123
124
124
125
125
126
126
128
128
128
129
129
130
132
132
134
134
135
ZAMBALES COAST
Pundaquit
Botolan & Iba
LINGAYEN GULF
Bolinao & Patar Beach
Hundred Islands National
Park
Lingayen
San Fabian
San Fernando (La Union) &
Around
ILOCOS
Vigan
Around Vigan
Laoag
Around Laoag
Pagudpud
THE CORDILLERA
Baguio
Kabayan
Around Kabayan
Sagada
138
138
138
139
139
140
142
142
142
145
145
149
149
151
152
153
153
161
162
162
10
CONTENTS
Bontoc
Around Bontoc
Kalinga Province
Banaue
Around Banaue
THE NORTHEAST
Baler & Around
Nueva Vizcaya
Northern Sierra Madre
Natural Park
Tuguegarao
Claveria and the Babuyan
Islands
BATANES
Batan Island
Sabtang Island
Itbayat Island
Southeast Luzon
178
178
179
180
180
182
183
184
BICOL
Daet
Naga
Around Naga
Legaspi
Around Legaspi
Tabaco
Donsol
Sorsogon
Around Sorsogon
Matnog
CATANDUANES
Virac
Around Virac
West Coast
MARINDUQUE
Boac
Gasan
Buenavista
Santa Cruz
Poctoy
Mindoro
166
167
168
170
173
175
175
177
186
186
187
189
190
192
194
194
195
195
196
196
197
197
199
199
199
201
201
202
202
203
MINDORO ORIENTAL
Puerto Galera
North Coast Resorts
Calapan
Roxas
Bulalacao
MINDORO OCCIDENTAL
Abra de Ilog
Mamburao
Sablayan
North Pandan Island
Apo Reef National Park
205
205
208
216
219
220
220
220
221
221
221
222
Mt Iglit-Baco National Park 222

San Jos
223
The Visayas
225
CEBU
Cebu City
Around Cebu City
North of Cebu City
South of Cebu City
CAMOTES ISLANDS
Pacijan Island
Poro Island
Ponson Island
BOHOL
Tagbilaran
Panglao Island
Balicasag Island
Pamilacan Island
Cabilao Island
Bohol Interior
Bohols Coastal Road
NEGROS
Negros Oriental
Negros Occidental
SIQUIJOR
Larena
Siquijor Town
Bandila-an Nature Centre
& the Caves
Paliton Beach
San Juan
Lazi & Around
Salagdoong & Talingting
PANAY
Iloilo City
Guimaras
Bulabog Puti-An National
Park
Southwest Coast
San Jos (Antique)
Tibiao & Around
Roxas (Capiz)
Kalibo
Tangalan
Caticlan
BORACAY
Orientation
Information
Activities
Sleeping
Eating
Drinking & Entertainment
Getting Around
227
227
242
246
253
258
258
260
260
261
261
265
269
269
269
270
272
274
274
282
294
296
297
297
297
297
298
298
298
299
306
317
318
319
319
319
321
324
324
325
327
327
327
329
332
334
334
335
ROMBLON
Carabao Island
Tablas Island
Romblon Island
Sibuyan Island
Banton Island
MASBATE
Masbate Town
Bagacay
Mandaon
Ticao Island
Burias Island
SAMAR
Catarman
Around Catarman
Allen
Balcuartro Islands
Calbayog
Catbalogan & Around
Borongan
Guiuan
Around Guiuan
LEYTE
Tacloban
Around Tacloban
Padre Burgos & Around
Limasawa Island
Malitbog
Maasin & Around
Ormoc
Around Ormoc
BILIRAN ISLAND
Naval
North of Naval
East & South of Naval
West of Naval
Mindanao & Sulu
335
335
337
339
342
343
344
345
346
347
347
347
347
349
349
349
350
350
350
352
352
353
354
354
358
359
360
360
361
362
363
363
364
364
366
366
367
NORTHERN MINDANAO
Surigao
Siargao
Dinagat
Butuan
Around Butuan
Balingoan
Camiguin
Cagayan de Oro
Around Cagayan de Oro
Malaybalay & Around
Iligan
Marawi & Lake Lanao
SOUTHERN MINDANAO
Davao
Around Davao
371
371
373
376
376
378
378
378
382
385
385
386
386
387
387
391

C O N T E N T S 11
General Santos
(Dadiangas)
393
Lake Sebu
395
Koronadal (Marbel)
395
Cotabato
395
ZAMBOANGA PENINSULA 396
Zamboanga
397
Around Zamboanga
401
Ozamis
401
Oroquieta
401
Baliangao Wetland Park
402
Dapitan
402
Dipolog
403
SULU ISLANDS
403
Tawi-Tawi Group
404
406
Palawan
CENTRAL PALAWAN
Puerto Princesa
Around Puerto Princesa
410
410
414
SOUTH PALAWAN
Quezon & Tabon Caves
Brookes Point
NORTH PALAWAN
Roxas
Port Barton
Taytay
Apulit Island
Flower Island
Calabugdong Island
Icadambanuan Island
Liminancong
El Nido
Bacuit Archipelago
CALAMIAN GROUP
Busuanga Island
Other Islands in the
Calamian Group
Directory
417
417
417
417
418
419
420
420
421
421
421
421
421
424
427
427
430
432
Regional Map Contents

NORTH
LUZON
p136
MANILA
pp72-73
MINDORO
p204
AROUND MANILA
p117
SOUTHEAST LUZON
p185
THE VISAYAS
p226
PALAWAN
p407
MINDANAO & SULU

p369
Transport
Health
Language
Glossary
Behind the Scenes
Index
World Time Zones
Map Legend
446
456
465
472
474
483
490
492

14
Getting Started
For further details on
weather in the
Philippines see p435.
Theres no question that the Philippines is a little more challenging to

visit than some other Southeast Asian countries. For starters, its separated from the Southeast Asian mainland by several hundred kilometres
of ocean. Then theres the somewhat chaotic scene that greets you at
Manilas Ninoy Aquino International Airport (where most people enter
the country). But for the traveller who makes the effort to get there, the
Philippines is usually a very pleasant surprise. The people of the Philippines are as warm and friendly as youll meet anywhere, and the island
and mountain vistas are truly superb some of the best in Southeast Asia.
And with over 7000 islands in the archipelago, its easy to get that offthe-beaten-track feeling, something thats getting harder to do in most
other parts of Southeast Asia.
WHEN TO GO
The best time to visit the Philippines is in the typhoon off-season, from
September to May. Beware of arriving around Christmas and New Year
though, as this is when legions of overseas Filipino workers return to
spend the holidays with their families: accommodation and transport
tend to fill up during this period, so book well in advance. Holy Week
(around Easter) presents similar problems.
The wet season falls between June and September. The dry season
starts when the September rains let up, and from then until early April
the weather is at its most travel-friendly. By May, the warm weather turns
hot and youll long for a sea breeze or the cool shade of the mountains.
The most lively festivals fall between January and May.
Note that the wet season does not totally prohibit travel in the Philippines. Even in parts of the country where the wet season is most
pronounced, like Palawan, it is still possible to travel right through this
DONT LEAVE HOME WITHOUT
Travelling light is the only way to travel, especially in the Philippines. Lets face it: unless you
intend to engage in specialist activities like surfing or rock climbing, you can travel in the Philippines with a large knapsack. You really dont need a full-size backpack. And, if you decide that
you really should have brought that chess set, ham radio or three-piece suit, well, you can always
buy what you need in Manila or Cebu (and if its just a T-shirt or pair of flip-flops, you can buy
these just about anywhere). Thus, for travellers planning a trip to the Philippines, we recommend
that you dont leave home without
A headlamp or flashlight (electricity is an on-again-off-again affair in the Philippines)
A sarong (this will double as a sheet, beach towel, bag and so on)
A fleece for air-con buses and ferries
Earplugs (roosters are everywhere in the Philippines, and youll also have to deal with
karaoke, noisy boat engines and so on)
A strong zip-lock bag or other fully waterproof container for your camera (useful on boat rides)
Tampons
Medication if you suffer from sea sickness
Lightweight mosquito nets or netting (coils are available if you dont like nets)
www.lonelyplanet.com
G E T T I N G S TA R T E D C o s t s & M o n e y 15
season, provided you are willing to accept delays and cancellations.

Furthermore, its not usually rainy or even cloudy all day. More commonly, thunderheads and rain clouds build during the day and rain
falls in bursts during the afternoon. There are also several advantages to
travelling in the wet season: lower accommodation prices, fewer people,
and lovely sunsets.
COSTS & MONEY

The Philippines is a bit more expensive than Thailand or Indonesia, but
still quite affordable by Western standards.
Once outside Manila and Cebu, budget travellers can get by for around
P1000 per day, spending around P400 on simple accommodation in
guesthouses and backpacker joints, P200 for food in basic local restaurants, P200 for travel and P200 for sundries. If youre staying put and
bargain for long-term accommodation discounts, you may do significantly better than this daily budget.
Midrange travellers will come close to doubling the budget figure (say,
around P1950 per day), spending around P850 on a reasonably comfortable hotel or simple resort accommodation, P500 for three decent meals
a day, P300 for travel and another P300 for sundries.
Once you enter top-end territory, the sky is almost the limit: top-end
accommodation prices will almost always be quoted in US dollars, and
will average around US$80 for a resort or standard hotel (though this can
go much higher); meals at good restaurants can run to P500 or more per
person; full-day car and driver hire will cost around P1000.
Of course, as far as prices go in the Philippines, location is the operative word. Prices in Manila or Cebu City arent necessarily indicative of
expenses for the rest of your trip. In particular, Manilas accommodation
(especially midrange) tends to be pricey compared with the provinces.
Likewise, the internationally famous resort Boracay is a lot pricier than
most other islands, though bargains can be found even there. The season also plays a huge role in accommodation prices: in the off-season,
you can ask for and expect to receive discounts on accommodation of
between 20% and 40%.
Fortunately, no matter where you go in the Philippines, basic necessities are amazingly cheap all year round. Likewise, transport, with the
exception of private boat and car hire, is also a great bargain, with airfares
as low as youll find in any other parts of Southeast Asia.
TRAVEL LITERATURE
Playing with Water Passion and Solitude on a Philippine Island is
James Hamilton-Patersons account of the time he spent on an islet near
Marinduque. In addition to containing excellent descriptions of the
underwater world, Hamilton-Patersons book sheds light on the ways of a
small Philippine barangay (village). This book should whet your appetite
for a spell on one of the Philippines many Robinson Crusoe islands.
Ants for Breakfast Archaeological Adventures among the Kalinga,
by James M Skibo, is a tasty work of asides and insights gleaned from
fieldwork among the Kalinga people of the Cordilleras. While it is not
among the classics of anthropology, Skibos laid-back prose makes for
an entertaining read.
Eye of the Fish is an interesting collection of essays by a Manila-born,
New Yorkraised journalist by the name of Luis H Fracia. The book
mixes accounts of his youth in the Philippines and subsequent trips back
to the country as an adult, and is an interesting meditation on the Filipino
HOW MUCH?
City bus (air-con) trip P7
City bus (ordinary) trip P4
Film (36 exposures) P180
Internet access (per
hour) P25
Jeepney trip P7
Laundry (1kg) P40
Meal (basic) P80
One-day bangka (small
boat) rental P750-1500
Petrol (1L) P33
Shampoo (bottle) P30
See also Lonely Planet
Index, inside front cover.
16 G E T T I N G S TA R T E D T o p Te n s
Islands & Beaches

With over 7000 islands and a stunning tropical location, its hardly surprising that the Philippines
also boasts some of the worlds best beaches. Your choices range from touristy and developed spots
like Boracay, to desert islands where you can live out your own stranded in paradise fantasy.
The Bacuit Archipelago (p424) is one of

the worlds most stunning seascapes
The Romblon Islands (p335) are where
natural wonders seem to be for your eyes
only
Malapascua Island (p249) is a laid-back

diving resort on the verge of big things
The Calamian Group (p427) contains some
lovely Robinson Crusoe islands and great
wreck diving
Coron Island (p430) has some incredible
lakes and great beaches along its coast
Pagudpud (p152) is known as the Boracay

of the North without the people
North Pandan Island (p221) is a lovely island where the only thing to rival the diving
is the glorious buffet
Sipalay (p292) is a remote town featuring

idyllic Sugar Beach, the perfect beach retreat
Camiguin Island (p378) is a volcanic wonderland for X-Gamers and retirees alike
Thrills & Activities

Due to its great diversity of natural terrain, the Philippines is a natural venue for all sorts of
outdoor and adventure sports. Indeed, only Indonesia can compete with the Philippines for the
title of adventure sports capital of southeast Asia.
Paddle into the wonderfully weird world of
Sabangs Subterranean River (p415)
Dive the awesome wrecks of Coron (p430)
Snorkel with whale sharks at Donsol (p194)
Explore the uncharted caves and underground rivers of central Samar (p350)
Surf the gnarly reefs around Cloud Nine

(p375)
Trek Mt Kanlaon (p287), an active volcano

with some of Negros last woodlands
Climb Mt Apo (p392) to be on the top of

the Philippines
Dive in Moalboal (p255), a self-contained

budget dive and party town
Go subterranean in the caves around

Sagada (p164)
Ascend Mt Halcon (p217), the Philippines

most challenging climb
Festivals
Filipinos dont need much of an excuse to hold a festival, and its well worth trying to schedule your
travels around a few of the big ones. Its a great chance to see the people and the country at their
most colourful. This list is our top 10; for a comprehensive listing of Philippine festivals, see p437.
The Ati-Atihan festival (p322) rocks the
streets of Kalibo in January
The Rodeo Masbateo (p345) brings out

the cowboy in Filipinos every April/May
Lose yourself in La Carlotas Kabankalong

Sinulog (p286), a wild street party held on
the second Sunday in January
The waterborn Pistay Dayat Festival (p142)

takes place off the Lingayen coast every May
Witness Cebu Citys Sinulog (p233), celebrated on the third Sunday of January
The raucous Moriones Festival (p201) livens up sleepy Marinduque every Holy Week
Easter in San Fernando (p132) features a
crucifixion ceremony where volunteers are
nailed to a cross

G E T T I N G S TA R T E D I n t e r n e t R e s o u r c e s 17
identity. This book is a good introduction to the various issues facing the
Philippines and its people today.
TOP TENS
White Beach on Boracay (p325) is the

heavily made-up reigning queen of the
Philippine resorts
During Pahiyas (p128) on 15 May, Lucban

residents decorate their houses with fruit and
vegetables and wild paper creations
The Kaamulan festival (p385) each September celebrates indigenous tribal unity
and culture in this little-visited region
The Peafrancia Festival (p187) in Naga
draws hordes of people every September
INTERNET RESOURCES
ClickTheCity.Com (www.clickthecity.com) ClickTheCity is a great site for the latest happenings

and destinations in Manila.
INQ7.Net (www.inq7.net) Inq7 is the best Philippines online news site.
Lakbay.Net (www.lakbay.net) The Lakbay site has lots of useful Philippines links, as well as
shipping and bus schedules, and an online air-ticket booking service.
Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com) The Lonely Planet site has lots of information on the
Philippines and travel in general.
Philippines Department of Foreign Affairs (DFA; www.dfa.gov.ph) The DFAs site lists
Philippine embassies and consulates abroad, as well as foreign embassies and consulates in
the Philippines. It also lists the latest Philippines visa info.
Tanikalang Ginto (www.filipinolinks.com) The vast Tanikalang Ginto Web directory is very
catholic (with a small c) in its orientation it offers useful links to nearly every topic under the
Philippine sun.
WOW Philippines (www.tourism.gov.ph) The site of the Philippines Department of Tourism
(DOT) has useful general info about the Philippines, as well as lists of DOT offices inside and outside
the country.

18
NORTHSOUTH TRAVERSE
Itineraries
CLASSIC ROUTES
MANILA PLUS ONE
One to Two Weeks

Many visitors to the Philippines use Manila as a jumping-off point to more
popular tourist spots, but the capital has plenty to offer to keep you occupied for a day or two. If you have a week to spend in the country, start off
with two days in Manila (p69) doing a one-day tour of historic sights, such
as Intramuros (p75), and another day for modern Manila as embodied by
Makati City (p85) and other centres of contemporary urban development.
Having experienced a little of Philippine life in the big city, you could then
head for one of the aforementioned destinations. Boracay (p325) is a popular
choice and has both the natural attractions and nightlife to keep visitors entertained. A similar destination is Puerto Galera (p205), with its meandering
coastline, innumerable coves, towering cliffs and lush vegetation.
With two weeks, you could do one of the Manila-and-Boracay or Manilaand-Puerto Galera itineraries, add a day to each of the stops, then head
north to the eighth wonder of the world: the ancient rice terraces of Banaue
(p170). If youve got time while in the Cordillera, you could tack on a trip
to nearby Sagada (p162). With its cool climate and relaxed atmosphere,
Sagada is a good place to chill out before returning to the real world.
Check out the

capital for a few
days, then head to
an easily accessible
destination like
Boracay (600km
round trip from
Manila) or Puerto
Galera (250km
round trip from
Manila). This
route takes about
a week; add the
Cordillera of Luzon
(600km round trip
from Manila) and it
will take about
two weeks.
I T I N E R A R I E S C l a s s i c R o u t e s 19
One to Two Months

Manila (p69) is the obvious place to start. After a couple of days exploring the capital, make your way north, to the Ilocos region (p145). Heading
south from here, you could hit the Cordillera region (p153), stopping in
Banaue (p170) to see the famous rice terraces, and Sagada (p162) to enjoy
the cool mountain air. From Luzon, you can hop down to Puerto Galera
(p205) on the island of Mindoro. If you dont already have it, you could
get your diving certification here, opening up a whole range of underwater possibilities for the rest of your trip.
From Puerto Galera, you could make your way across Mindoro and
down to Boracay (p325), for a few days of tropical indulgence on the
white-sand beach there. From Boracay, you can make your way across
Panay (p298), hop to Negros (p274), and then plunk down in Cebu City
(p227) for some modern comforts. Cebu is a good jumping-off point for
Bohol (p261), with its famous Chocolate Hills (p270), and the lovely islands
of Malapascua (p249) and Bantayan (p247).
From Cebu or Bohol, adventurous travellers can head south to Mindanao (p367) to check out the great diving and outdoor activities there.
Off the coast of Mindanao, Camiguin Island (p378) is a great spot to while
away a few sun-filled days. If you dont want to visit Mindanao, you could
head from Bohol to the eastern Visayas, starting in Leyte (p354) and then
working your way up the scenic west coast of Samar (p347). Finally, you
could cross the San Bernardino Strait, which would bring you back to the
main island of Luzon. Here, if the season is right, you could see the whale
sharks off Donsol (p194). Otherwise, you could check out Mt Mayon (p192),
a 2462m volcano near Legaspi, before heading back by bus to Manila.
LUZON
ILOCOS
SUR
Sagada
Banaue
Sagada
Banaue
MANILA
MANILA;
Intramuros;
Makati City
Puerto
Galera
Puerto Galera
Mt Mayon
Donsol
SAMAR
Boracay
Malapascua Island
Boracay
PANAY
Bantayan
Island
LEYTE
CEBU CITY
NEGROS BOHOL
Camiguin Island
MINDANAO
Manila Plus One

NorthSouth Traverse
If youve got time

and want to see a
lot of the Philippines, start at the
northern tip of
Luzon and travel
down to Mindanao,
with the option of
skipping Mindanao
and exploring the
eastern Visayas.
Youll cover between 2000km and
3000km; the route
takes from one to
two months.
20 I T I N E R A R I E S R o a d s Le s s T r a v e l l e d
ROADS LESS TRAVELLED

THE LAST FRONTIER: PALAWAN
Two to Four Weeks

If you see nothing more in the Philippines than Manila and Palawan
(p406), you wont feel short-changed. Indeed, Palawan packs more adventure and beauty into a small space than any other region of the
Philippines. We recommend starting in Puerto Princesa (p410), which
is accessible by boat and plane from Manila, and by plane from Cebu.
Spend a day or two in Puerto (as its locally known), setting your body
clock to island time (and enjoying the great food on offer). Then, head up
to visit Sabang and the Subterranean River (p415). The riverine cave here is
one of the most bizarre and fascinating attractions in all of the Philippines
and is not to be missed. If youd like to do some island hopping, then a
day trip to the Honda Bay islands (p414) is good for a quick beach fix.
From Puerto, head overland or fly up to El Nido (p421) to explore the
fantastic Bacuit Archipelago (p424). Spend a few days here taking day trips
around the islands, searching for that perfect bay or beach to call your
own. From El Nido, take a boat or fly up to Busuanga Island (p427). Based
in or near Coron Town (p428) on Busuanga Island, you can explore the fantastic lakes of Coron Island (p430), Makinit Hot Springs (p428), and the islands
and beaches near Coron (p430). Of course, the real attraction here is wreck
diving (p430), and there are few experiences that compare to descending
into the depths and seeing a vast sunken hulk coalesce out of the gloom.
From Busuanga, you can either take a ferry or fly back to Manila.
From Puerto
Princesa up to Busuanga Island, take
in Palawans most
stunning features:
the Subterranean
River, the Bacuit
Archipelago, and
the wrecks, islands
and lakes of
Busuanga Island.
The route covers
approximately
500km, not including the journey to
and from Manila,
and takes two to
four weeks.
I T I N E R A R I E S R o a d s Le s s T r a v e l l e d 21
DOING TIME ISLAND STYLE
One Month
If you have a month to spend in the country, then an island-hopping tour
of the Visayas is certainly one of the better ways to spend it, particularly
if youre a diver or beach-lover. Fly into bustling Cebu City (p227), Manila
Minor, but dont linger too long. Take the first convenient bus to the
dive colony of Moalboal (p255). Once youve dived and partied to your
hearts content, jump on another bus and check out the stunning coastal
scenery on the road to Bato, the closest port to Negros. In Negros, enjoy
the nightlife of Dumaguete (p274), and sample the many dive resorts just
a short bus trip out of town. Then brace for a gruelling but utterly
worthwhile six-hour bus journey to the remote beach retreats of Sipalay
(p292). Leave some slack in your itinerary at this point because youll
probably want to stay an extra week.
From Sipalay, its four hours by bus (thankfully along a paved road) to
Pulupandan, from where the boat departs for Guimaras (p306), a gem of
an island for lovers of postcard-perfect low-key resorts, as well as mountain bikers and mango connoisseurs. If you can muster the energy to
leave, Iloilo City (p299), the second city of the Visayas, is a short ferry hop
away. Take some time out for the happening music scene and gorge on
the beachfront seafood buffets before grabbing a van north to the white
sand, mixed drinks and water sports at Boracay (p325), the Philippines
answer to Cancun and Phuket. Before long you may be inspired to seek
permanent-residency status, but if you find the beach-bum lifestyle too
taxing take a vacation from your vacation by catching a ferry north to the
island of Looc and then to either of the island retreats of Romblon (p339)
or Sibuyan (p342) before returning to civilisation via Cebu or Manila.
MANILA
ROMBLON
ISLANDS
Busuanga
Island
Sibuyan Island
Coron Town &
Wreck Diving Sites
Boracay
El Nido & Bacuit

Archipelago
Iloilo City
GUIMARAS
Sabang & Subterranean

River
Puerto Princesa
The Last Frontier: Palawan
Sipalay
Honda
Bay
NEGROS
Doing Time Island Style
CEBU CITY
Moalboal
Dumaguete
Cut a swathe
through the
Visayas, enjoying
superb diving
at Moalboal and
around Dumaguete
and the beach resorts of Sipalay and
Boracay. Sample
the nightlife at
Dumaguete and
Iloilo City, or
retreat to the
peaceful islands
of Romblon or
Sibuyan. The total
distance is 900km;
allow at least a
month.
22 I T I N E R A R I E S Ta i l o re d T r i p s
TAILORED TRIPS
NORTH LUZON TREKKERS TREAT
From Baguio, take a bus to Kabayan (p161). Spend the night there and set
out early the next morning for the Akiki Trail, which leads up to the grassy
North
summit of Luzons highest peak, Mt Pulag (p162). Fast hikers will be back
Luzon
in Kabayan the following evening. Hike out of Kabayan to the Halsema Hwy
Trekkers
(p165) via the mummies at the Timbac Caves (p161) and jump on a northTreat
bound bus to Sagada, which is loaded with excellent day hikes (p164). The
amazing amphitheatre-like rice terraces of Maligcong (p167) are your next
destination. Either take a jeepney to Bontoc and explore these on a day
trip, or better yet walk to Maligcong via Mainit
(p167) from the town of Aguid near Sagada.
From Bontoc you have two choices. To get
really off the beaten track, head up to Tinglayen
Tabuk
(p168) and hike to see the last of the Kalinga
headhunters. From Tinglayen, travel by jeepTinglayen
Maligcong
ney or whitewater raft down the Chico River to
Sagada
Barlig/Mt Amuyao
Bontoc
Tabuk (p169). Your other option from Bontoc is
Banaue/Batad
to head to Banaue (p170) and Batad (p173), site
Timbac Caves
of Luzons most famous rice terraces. HardKabayan
core trekkers should not miss the outstanding
Mt Pulag
Baguio
two-day trek to Batad from Barlig (p167), outside of Bontoc, via Mt Amuyao (2702m). The
stunning hikes around Batad and Banaue will
keep you occupied for days.
DIVERS ODYSSEY
Starting in Manila, you could warm up with a few easy dives around
Anilao (p123), or head straight south for the diving centre of Puerto Galera
(p205) on Mindoro, where youll want to try the wall diving off Verde
Island (p210), considered by some to be the best in the Philippines. From
Mindoro, head south to the Visayas (p225). Cebu City (p227) is a good
place to begin your exploration of the Visayas. Near Cebu, youll find
good cave diving on Mactan Island (p242). On Cebu Island itself, Moalboal
(p255) has some great beach dives. Moving over to nearby Bohol (p261)
puts you in easy reach of the incredible reef diving around Balicasag
Island (p269). Other Visayan possibilities include Apo Island (p281), with
its large fish and healthy coral, and Malapascua
Divers
Island (p249), with some good opportunities for
Odyssey
shark sightings.
Heading south from the Visayas brings you
to Mindanao (p367), which has its share of great
diving. Near Davao, Samal Island (p391) has
some good cave diving, while the reef dives
Anilao
Puerto Galera &
around General Santos are some of the best in
Apo Island
Verde Island
Coron
the archipelago. Finally, if you have the time,
Malapascua Island
PALAWAN
a trip over to Palawan (p406) is a must (youll
CEBU CITY/Mactan Island
Moalboal
Puerto
BOHOL/Balicasag Island
have to backtrack to Cebu and fly from there
Princesa
to Puerto Princesa). There is some fine divMINDANAO
Samal Island
ing in Palawan, and any divers worth their
General
salt already know about Corons nearby wreck
Santos
diving (p430).
23

22

23
Snapshot
A meeting point of East and West; a Christian nation, yet home to a
growing number of Muslims; a melting pot of ethnic and religious tolerance where visitors are generally welcomed with an open mind the
Philippines can seem like a highly accessible place to the first-time visitor.
However, it takes some time and effort to come to grips with whats really
going on here, and nothing is ever as simple as it seems.
One of the significant features of current Philippine society that might
strike the visitor is the visible rise of women in the workforce. Middle
management is now mostly in the hands of women, and it is not uncommon to also encounter women in senior positions as well as women
entrepreneurs and business proprietors. This, however, should not come
as a surprise. Long before womens lib in the West, Filipinas already
enjoyed a strong position in local society, and as increasing numbers of
the menfolk left home to work abroad, they filled up the spots vacated
by men. It is a telling fact that in this young republic there have already
been two women presidents!
The most recent of these women presidents, Gloria Macapagal-Arroyo,
was recently involved in an election scandal that was the talk of Philippine society (for more on this, see p29). While it looks like MacapagalArroyo will weather this particular storm, it remains to be seen whether
she will continue to be an effective leader, or if she will have spent all her
political capital defending herself from charges of election fraud.
The visitor might notice a veneer of economic wellbeing in the country,
particularly in Metro Manila and other recently developed major urban
centres. This is especially noticeable with regard to the infrastructure
(better roads and transport) and the retail and service sectors (high-end
shops, hotels and restaurants offering higher-standard service).
Yet once you get out of these pockets of prosperity, life remains the
same, almost unchanged, with masses still living in dire poverty around
shantytowns. This image of destitution remains firmly fixed in the perception of many foreigners, who often think of Smokey Mountain, Manilas notorious trash dump, as exemplifying the country as a whole
(the site has actually been closed down). It would, however, be a gross
injustice to equate the Philippines with poverty. Though poverty continues to be a major problem, the social fabric has somehow managed to
remain intact and free of the horrendous crimes encountered in some
advanced countries.
The south, specifically the Muslim region of Mindanao, is still a trouble
spot, and the visitor would be well advised to take note of travel advisories
regarding the area. But strangely enough the situation hasnt deteriorated,
despite rising tensions between Muslim and non-Muslim communities
in other parts of the world. Indeed, at the moment, it all seems eerily
quiet on the southern front. And back in Manila, there has been a drop
in the number of kidnap-for-ransom incidents. Thus it appears that, for
the time being, it is a good time to visit the Philippines.
FAST FACTS
Population: 87.8 million
Life expectancy: men 67
years, women 73 years
GNP: US$430 billion
Unemployment rate:
over 11%
English literacy rate:
93%, the highest in Asia
Number of islands: 7000,
the worlds secondlargest archipelago
Length of coastline:
36,289km, the worlds
third longest (almost
twice that of the USA)
Highest point: Mt Apo,
at 2954m
Asias first: university
(University of Santo
Tomas, 1611); democratic
nation (1896); commercial airline (Philippine
Airlines, 1941)
Worlds biggest producer
of: coconuts, third-largest
producer of bananas

12
THE AUTHORS
13
The Authors
CHRIS ROWTHORN
Coordinating Author & Palawan
Chris is a Kyoto-based journalist who has spent the last 12 years in Asia. He
travels several times each year in Southeast Asia and he considers Palawan
to be one of his favourite places on earth. Chris is a keen diver, snorkeller
and trekker, and is happiest when hes in the mountains or snorkelling on
a tropical reef somewhere. In addition to being a writer and photographer,
Chris is a published cartoonist whose work has appeared in King Features
Syndicates New Breed series in newspapers across the United States. When
hes not writing for Lonely Planet, Chris runs tours of Kyoto, Tokyo, Manila
and Palawan (www.philippinesprivatetours.com).
Authors Favourite Trip
My Favourite Trip
My favourite trip in the Philippines is invariably a trip to Palawan.

I fly into Manila (p69) and spend a day or two in the capital
before flying down to Puerto Princesa (p410). I spend a few days
in Puerto stuffing myself full of good Filipino food at places
like KaLui (p413) and Kinabuch (p413). Then I head for Sabang
and take a journey into the otherworldly Subterranean River
(p415). From there, I make my way up to El Nido (p421) and
spend a few days exploring the fantastic Bacuit Archipelago
(p424), one of my favourite places. Then I fly up to Busuanga
Island and spend a few days in Coron (p428), making day trips
to the nearby islands, eating at Bistro Coron (p429) and diving
on the wrecks (p430).
GREG BLOOM
MANILA
Busuanga
Island
Coron
Bacuit
Archipelago
El Nido
PALAWAN
Sabang &
Subterranean River
Puerto Princesa
North Luzon & Southeast Luzon
Gregs first impression of Manila when he moved there in 2004 was that
it seemed like Americas 51st state, oddly misplaced in Southeast Asia. It
took him about a week to realise that the Philippines shared more characteristics with his previous home-away-from-home, Ukraine, than with his
native United States. Feeling right at home, he quickly grew to love this land
of a million smiles and its quirky culture. Formerly the editor of the Kyiv
Post, Greg now splits his time between travel writing and editing technical
reports for international organisations. When not banging computer keys
hes usually off diving in the South China Sea or running around Manilas
ultimate Frisbee fields.
MICHAEL DAY
Mindoro, The Visayas (Cebu, Camotes & Negros)
Michael spent five years at the Lonely Planet head office in various roles,
including commissioning editor for Northeast Asia, before jumping the
fence to do his first authoring gig. He has travelled extensively in Asia
but until the Philippines nothing had quite lived up to his first long trip
island-hopping around Indonesia. He now rates Negros among his all-time
favourite islands. By the time this book is published, Michael and his family
will be living in Istanbul, Turkey.
MICHAEL GROSBERG
The Visayas (Bohol, Siquijor, Panay, Boracay,

Romblon, Masbate, Samar, Leyte, Biliran Island), Mindanao & Sulu
After a childhood spent in the Washington DC area, and with a philosophy

degree in hand, Michael took a job involved with developing a resort on Rota
island in the Northern Marianas, after which he left for a long overland trip
through Asia. Following an exploration of the country of his birth, he went
to South Africa and did journalism and NGO work. He then returned to New
York City, attended graduate school in comparative literature, and taught
literature and writing. Inspired by his trip to North Luzon for the previous
edition of this guide, Michael sought the Philippine islands of the south this
time around. Michael has worked on about 10 Lonely Planet books.
RYAN VER BERKMOES
Manila, Around Manila
Ryan grew up in California in a community that was popular with Filipino

immigrants. As such he got to try authentic adobo at an early age and
learned both of the horrors of WWII and the wild Filipino sense of humour.
(Hed like to say he also learned about bad cover bands, but everybody
seemed to like bad cover bands then.) He has spent a good part of the
last 20 years in Southeast Asia and is glad to finally have a chance to write
about the Philippines. A long-time journalist and Lonely Planet author, Ryan
doesnt recommend breathing deeply in Manila but he does recommend
you plunge in deeply: Its a carnival, a city and a collection of anecdotes
all rolled into one.
CONTRIBUTING AUTHORS
LONELY PLANET AUTHORS
Why is our travel information the best in the world? Its simple: our authors are independent,
dedicated travellers. They dont research using just the Internet or phone, and they dont take
freebies in exchange for positive coverage. They travel widely, to all the popular spots and off
the beaten track. They personally visit thousands of hotels, restaurants, cafs, bars, galleries,
palaces, museums and more and they take pride in getting all the details right, and telling it
how it is. For more, see the authors section on www.lonelyplanet.com.
Dr Trish Batchelor wrote the Health chapter. She is a general practitioner and travel-medicine specialist
who works at the CIWEC Clinic in Kathmandu, Nepal, as well as being a medical advisor to the Travel
Doctor New Zealand clinics. Trish teaches travel medicine through the University of Otago, and is
interested in underwater and high-altitude medicine, and in the impact of tourism on host countries.
She has travelled extensively through Southeast Asia.
Heneage Mitchell wrote the Diving in the Philippines chapter. He has lived and dived in the Philippines
for more than 20 years, and in 1982 became the first foreigner to own and operate a dive centre in
the Philippines.
14

15
Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
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the above - Do the right thing with our content.

24
History
THE BEGINNING
After an
interval of
roughly
2000 years,
the Neolithic
Age arrived
in the form
of the seafaring, toolwielding
Indonesians
Thanks to Tabon Man, who left a bit of his (or her, according to some)
skull in a cave in Palawan at least 47,000 years ago, a sliver of light shines
into the deep, dark prehistory of the Philippines. The oldest known
human relic of the islands, this bone fragment suggests that the Tabon
Caves helped early Homo sapiens survive the last ice age.
The ocean and the boat have always been powerful symbols in the
Philippines. The word barangay, which refers to the basic Filipino social
unit or a community, is derived from the ancient balangay, or sailboat.
The longest-held theory on the origins of Tabon Man is based on
distinct waves of migration. Assuming that much of modern-day Asia
was linked by land bridges, this theory posits that around 250,000 years
ago our earliest human ancestors simply walked over to what is now the
Philippines.
About 200,000 years later, in strode the nomadic Negrito groups from
the Malay Peninsula, Borneo and perhaps even Australia. After an interval of roughly 2000 years, the Neolithic Age arrived in the form of the
seafaring, tool-wielding Indonesians. The Indonesian groups brought
with them formal farming and building skills.
Its fair to assume that this bunch was busily carving out the spectacular rice terraces of North Luzon (p173) some 2000 years ago. With
the Iron Age came the Malays. Skilful sailors, potters and weavers, they
built the first permanent settlements and prospered from around the 1st
century AD until the 16th century, when the Spanish arrived. The wave
migration theory holds that the Malays arrived in at least three ethnically
diverse waves. The first wave provided the basis for the modern-day
Bontoc and other tribes of North Luzon. The second laid the foundations
for the most dominant of modern-day indigenous groups the Bicolano,
Bisayan and Tagalog. The third wave is thought to have established the
fiercely proud Muslim Malays.
But written records are few, and wave migration is only one theory. An
alternative proposed by some Philippine scholars suggests that the early
inhabitants of Southeast Asia were of the same racial group (the Pithecanthropus group, to be exact), with more or less the same traditions and
beliefs. Over time, they say, divisions formed according to the demands
of the environment.
TRADE
The Chinese became the first foreigners to do business with the islands
they called MaI as early as the 2nd century AD, although the first recorded Chinese expedition to the Philippines was in AD 982. Within
a few decades, Chinese traders were regular visitors to towns along the
coasts of Luzon, Mindoro and Sulu, and by around AD 1100 travellers
from India, Borneo, Sumatra, Java, Siam (Thailand) and Japan were also
including the islands on their trade runs. Gold was by then big business
in Butuan (on the northern coast of Mindanao), Chinese settlements had
TIMELINE 45,000 BC
Tabon Man, the oldest discovered inhabitant of the 7000
islands, lives on Palawan
AD 982
First recorded Chinese expedition to the Philippines
H I S T O R Y T h e S p a n i s h E r a 25
sprung up in Manila and on Jolo, and Japanese merchants were buying

shop space in Manila and North Luzon.
For several centuries this peaceful trade arrangement thrived. Despite
the islands well-known riches, the inhabitants were never directly threatened by their powerful Asian trading partners. The key, particularly in
the case of China, was diplomacy. Throughout the 14th and 15th centuries, the tribal leaders of the Philippines would make regular visits to
Peking (Beijing) to honour the Chinese emperor.
THE SPANISH ERA

In the early 16th century, the Philippines began receiving visitors who
would have far more long-lasting consequences. Portuguese explorer Ferdinand Magellan landed at Samar at dawn on 16 March 1521. He claimed
the islands for Spain and named them the Islas del Poniente (Western
Islands). Soon after, the Portuguese arrived from the east and declared
the islands to be the Islas del Oriente (Eastern Islands). Undaunted,
Magellan set about giving the islanders a crash course in Catholicism
and winning over various tribal chiefs before fatally taking things one
step too far on Mactan Island (see p242).
Determined to press its claim, Spain sent four more expeditions; Ruy
Lopez de Villalobos, commander of the fourth expedition, renamed the
islands after the heir to the Spanish throne, Philip, Charles Is son. Philip,
as King Philip II, sent a fresh fleet led by Miguel Lopez de Legazpi to the
islands in the mid-16th century with strict orders to colonise and Catholicise. In 1565 an agreement was signed by Legazpi and Tupas, the defeated
chief of Cebu, which made every Filipino answerable to Spanish law.
Legazpi, his soldiers and a band of Augustinian monks wasted no
time in establishing a settlement where Cebu City now stands; Fort
San Pedro (p232) is a surviving relic of the era. First called San Miguel,
then Santisimo Nombre de Jesus, this fortified town hosted the earliest Filipino-Spanish Christian weddings and, critically, the baptisms of
various Cebuano leaders. Panay Islands people were beaten into submission soon after, with Legazpi establishing a vital stronghold there (near
present-day Roxas) in 1569.
The indigenous islanders who by tradition were loath to work together anyway were no match for the Spanish and their firearms.
Spains greatest challenge came from an old enemy Islam. To Spains
horror (having recently booted out the Moors at home), the Muslims
had a big head start: Islamic missionaries from Malacca had established
towns in Mindoro and Luzon almost a century before the Spanish arrived. Legazpi finally succeeded in taking the strategic Muslim settlement
of Maynilad (now Manila) in 1571, hastily proclaiming it the capital and
building over the kuta (fort) of Rajah Sulayman. This was eventually to
become Fort Santiago (p77).
So began a 300-year-long religious war that still smoulders in Mindanao, the spiritual home of Islam in the Philippines. The Spanish recruited newly Christianised Filipinos to help fight the Moros (as Muslim
Filipinos were dubbed), many of whom earned a violent living as pirates.
Meanwhile, Spain was courting the Chinese through trade. Throughout
the 16th and 17th centuries, Spains galleons many of them built in
1100
Traders from China, India, Japan and other countries throughout
Asia are regularly trading with Philippine islands
The Philippines has

been the worlds major
supplier of pineapples
since the 1980s, when
most production was
moved from Hawaii due
to labour costs.
1521
Ferdinand Magellan lands at Samar and claims the country for
the Spanish
26 H I S T O R Y T h e S p a n i s h E r a
The 1904 Worlds Fair:

The Filipino Experience is
a page-turning account
by Jose D Fermin of the
1100 Filipinos who were
taken to the St Louis
Worlds Fair in the US and
displayed under zoo-like
conditions as examples of
colonial triumph.
Cavite near Manila also specialised in taking spices, silk, porcelain and
gold to the New World, and returning with Mexican silver. Moro pirates
dodged many a cannonball to claim a share of these riches.
By the 18th century, Spains grasp on the Orient was slipping. It was
sharing its traditional trade routes with colonial rivals. It was at war with
England and fast running out of friends and funds.
Before long, with a big shove from the powerful East India Company,
Britain invaded Manila in 1762. But their arrival sparked the same sort of
antipathy a busload of hooligans sparks today, and less than two years later
the British were chased out of Manila Bay by a homegrown resistance. This
action was to have long-lasting consequences, as it marked the start of a
united, nationalist spirit. Anticolonial sentiment was reaching new heights
as friars and other Spanish colonisers increasingly used brutal methods to
try to retain control. By 1894 there were incidents of open rebellion.
A powerful group of nationalist heroes soon emerged. The greatest and
most famous of these was Dr Jos Rizal, doctor of medicine, poet, novelist, sculptor, painter, linguist, naturalist and fencing enthusiast. Executed
by the Spanish in 1896, Rizal epitomised the Filipinos dignified struggle
for personal and national freedom. Just before facing the Spanish firing
squad, Rizal penned a characteristically calm message of both caution
and inspiration to his people: I am most anxious for liberties for our
country, but I place as a prior condition the education of the people so
that our country may have an individuality of its own and make itself
worthy of liberties.
By killing such figures, the Spanish were creating martyrs. Andres
Bonifacio led an aggressive movement called the Kataastaasan Kagalanggalangang Katipunan ng mga Anak ng Bayan (Highest and Most Respected Society of the Sons of the Nation) better known as the Katipunan
or KKK. It secretly built a revolutionary government in Manila, with
a network of equally clandestine provincial councils. Complete with
passwords, masks and coloured sashes denoting rank, the Katipunans
members (both men and women) peaked at an estimated 30,000 in mid1896. In August, the Spanish got wind of the coming revolution (from a
womans confession to a Spanish friar, according to some accounts) and
the Katipunan leaders were forced to flee the capital.
Depleted, frustrated and poorly armed, the Katipuneros took stock in
nearby Balintawak, a baryo (district) of Caloocan, and voted to launch the
revolution regardless. With the cry Mabuhay ang Pilipinas! (Long live
the Philippines!), the Philippine Revolution lurched into life following
the incident that is now known as the Cry of Balintawak.
The shortage of weapons among the Filipinos meant that many fighters were forced to pluck their first gun from the hands of their enemies.
So acute was the shortage of ammunition for these weapons that some
(many of them children) were given the job of scouring battle sites for
empty cartridges. These cartridges would then be painstakingly repacked
using homemade gunpowder.
After three years of bloodshed, most of it Filipino, a Spanish-Filipino
peace pact was signed and the revolutionary leader General Emilio
Aguinaldo agreed to go into exile in Hong Kong in 1897. Predictably,
the pacts demands satisfied nobody. Promises of reform by the Spanish
1565
An agreement is signed making every Filipino answerable to
Spanish law
1569
Legazpi establishes a Spanish stronghold near modern-day Roxas,
on Panay
H I S T O R Y T h e A m e r i c a n E r a 27
were broken, as were promises by the Filipinos to stop their revolutionary

plotting. The Filipino cause attracted huge support from the Japanese,
who tried unsuccessfully to send money and two boatloads of weapons
to the exiled revolutionaries in Hong Kong.
THE AMERICAN ERA

Meanwhile, another of Spains colonial trouble spots Cuba was playing host to an ominous dispute over sugar between Spain and the USA.
To save face, Spain declared war on the USA; as a colony of Spain, the
Philippines was drawn into the conflict. Soon after, an American fleet
under Commodore George Dewey sailed into Manila Bay and routed the
Spanish ships. Keen to gain Filipino support, Dewey welcomed the return
of exiled revolutionary General Aguinaldo and oversaw the Philippine
Revolution mark II, which installed Aguinaldo as president of the first
Philippine republic.
The Philippine flag was flown for the first time during the proclamation of Philippine Independence on 12 June 1898.
After a bitter struggle, Spanish troops in Manila and outlying towns
were crushed by allied American and Filipino forces and Spains 400year-long occupation came to an end. With the signing of the Treaty of
Paris in 1898, the Spanish-American War ended and the USA effectively
bought the Philippines, Guam and Puerto Rico for US$20 million.
Back in US-occupied Manila, tempers were rising. Filipino revolutionaries were openly defying the Americans, and the Americans were
antagonising the Filipinos. Any dreams of impending Filipino independence were shattered in 1899 when Malolos, the makeshift capital of
President Aguinaldos Philippine Republic, was captured by American
troops led by General Arthur MacArthur.
By 1902 the first Philippine Republic was dead and buried and a succession of American neocolonial governors-general ensured it stayed
that way. The main intention of the Americans, like the Spanish, was to
serve their own economic needs, and by 1930 they had engineered an
industrial and social revolution, with two of the biggest booms coming
from mining and prostitution.
Not until 1935, once it had firmly lassoed the countrys resources, did
the USA endorse the Commonwealth of the Philippines, along with the
drafting of a US-style constitution and the first national election. On
paper at least, democracy and freedom had at last come to the Philippines, but, as WWII was about to prove, they came at a terrible price.
WORLD WAR II
Terror in Manila February

1945 is an unflinching
account by Antonio Prez
de Olaguer that documents the destruction
of the war-torn city. It is
based on hundreds of oral
histories by survivors.
The American military

practiced for the Vietnam
War in the Philippines in
the 1950s under the command of General Edward
Landsdale, the model
for Graham Greenes The
Quiet American.
When Japan bombed Hawaiis Pearl Harbor in 1941, other forces attacked
Clark Field, where General Douglas MacArthur was caught napping,
despite many hours warning. Within two days, Japanese troops landed
at Vigan in North Luzon, eventually driving the allied Filipino and US
troops to the Bataan Peninsula, opposite newly occupied Manila. From
here, soldiers and civilians alike faced not only relentless bombardment
but also hunger, disease and disillusionment.
MacArthur, holed up on nearby Corregidor island (p117), made his
now famous promise to return, and fled to Australia.
1571
The strategic Muslim settlement of Maynilad (now Manila) is
captured and becomes the capital
1762
The British invade Manila but are chased out by the locals
28 H I S T O R Y T h e M a r c o s E r a
Inside the Palace Really by

Beth Day Romulo documents the rise and fall of
the Marcoses a couple
made for drama.
Ordered to maintain a holding action, MacArthurs abandoned troops

soon fell to the Japanese with the unconditional surrender of around
76,000 people 66,000 of them Filipinos. Those still able to walk began
the 120km Bataan death march from Bataan to San Fernando, and on to
prison camps in Capas, Tarlac. As many as 20,000 people died along the
way and another 25,000 died while imprisoned. This event is honoured
with the annual Araw ng Kagitingan (Bataan Day) public holiday on
9 April. From 1942 to 1945 the Philippines endured a brutal Japanese
military regime. Unlike the previous colonial forces, the Japanese actively
encouraged Filipino languages as part of the Greater Asia Co-Prosperity
Sphere, Japans scheme of keeping Asia Asian. In 1944 MacArthur landed
at Leyte, determined to dislodge the Japanese. The main battleground
in this onslaught was Manila, where defenceless residents suffered horrifically in the ensuing crossfire during February 1945. By the time
MacArthur marched into the city, at least 150,000 civilians were killed
and a city that had been one of the finest in Asia was destroyed. In total,
over 1.1 million Filipinos were killed during WWII.
In early 1946 Japans General Tomoyuki Yamashita was tried as a war
criminal and hanged by order of MacArthur. In July of the same year,
Manuel Roxas was installed as president of the Republic of the Philippines under the auspices of the USA, and the immense task of rebuilding
a war-torn nation began. Far from free, the Philippines faced crippling
high-interest loans in the form of US aid, and its society (including more
than three-quarters of its schools and universities) lay in ruins.
THE MARCOS ERA
When she fled to the USA

in 1986, Imelda Marcos
really did leave behind
several thousand pairs
of shoes.
First elected in 1965 under the seductive slogan This nation can be great
again, the charismatic former lawyer Ferdinand Marcos became the
first president to win two terms in office. At first it indeed was a new
era, and Marcos and his even more charismatic wife Imelda went about
trying to bring back some of Manilas pre-war energy. Imelda drove
projects like the Cultural Center for the Philippines (p83), which got lots
of international attention but, as they say, didnt put food on the table.
By 1970, widespread poverty, rising inflation, pitiful public funding and
blatant corruption triggered a wave of protests in Manila. When several
demonstrators were killed by police outside the presidential Malacaang
Palace, Marcos image as a political saviour died with them. However he
still had a hugely powerful backer in the form of the US military, whose
Clark and Subic Bay (p130) bases were vital to the Vietnam War.
Citing the rise of leftist student groups and the New Peoples Army
(NPA), Marcos imposed martial law on the entire country in 1972. Normally a constitutional last resort designed to protect the masses, martial
law was declared by Marcos to keep himself in power (the constitution
prevented him from running for a third term) and to protect his foreign
business buddies. By this time, their formidable enemies included the
anti-imperialist National Democratic Front (NDF) and the Islamic Moro
National Liberation Front (MNLF) in Mindanao.
With martial law imposed, the Philippines was plunged into a darkness reminiscent of the Japanese occupation only this time it was at the
hands of a fellow Filipino. A curfew was imposed, the media was silenced
1896
Dr Jos Rizal, a powerful figure in the independence movement, is
executed by the Spanish
1898
After the US wins the Spanish-American War, the Philippine flag is
flown for the first time during the proclamation of Independence
H I S T O R Y P o l i t i c a l U p h e a v a l & H i g h J i n k s 29
or taken over by the military, international travel was banned and thousands of anti-government suspects were rounded up and thrown into
military camps. An estimated 50,000 of Marcos opponents were jailed,
exiled or killed. Marcos then set about raising revenue by handing over
great tracts of prime land to foreign investors and imposing heavy taxes
on those who could least afford them.
When Marcos made a show of lifting martial law in 1981, to silence
rising discontent, he reinvented himself and the constitution to form a
sham of a democracy. Under this New Republic, Marcos won a mid-year
election conveniently devoid of a free press or any real opposition.
In 1983, however, when thugs dressed as a military escort gunned down
Marcos political foe, Benigno Ninoy Aquino Jr, as he arrived at Manilas
airport on return from exile, a new Filipino martyr was created. The two
million mourners who poured onto the streets to accompany Aquinos
funeral cortege in Manila began a steady march towards a new era.
By 1986 even Marcos long-time supporters were publicly questioning
him, as were many embarrassed foreign powers. Another rigged election
saw Marcos beat Ninoy Aquinos widow, Corazon Cory Aquino, but this
time the masses stormed the presidential palace. Within days, virtually
all members of the nations armed forces had sided with the masses, the
Marcoses were spirited to Hawaii by the US Air Force, and Aquino was
installed as president and national heroine.
Thus was the force of the 1986 people power movement, or EDSA
(Epifanio de los Santos) Revolution (for a more detailed account see the
boxed text, p30).
Ferdinand Marcos died in exile in 1989 and his shoe-happy wife,
Imelda, soon returned to the Philippines, where she somehow wriggled
out of an 18-year jail sentence for graft. Despite evidence that she and
Ferdinand helped themselves to billions of dollars from the treasury,
Imelda remains free. She even ran for president in 1998 (she gave the
votes she garnered to the winner, Joseph Estrada, who in June 1998
asked the courts to give Imelda a presidential pardon; later that year the
Supreme Court acquitted Marcos of corruption charges).
A Country of Our Own

takes the controversial
view that the Philippines
will never be a strong
nation because it has
never had a unified
soul, but author David
C Martinez offers possible
solutions.
POLITICAL UPHEAVAL & HIGH JINKS

The cataclysmic eruption in June 1991 of Mt Pinatubo (p134), northwest
of Manila, ended another long chapter in Philippine history. Showered in
volcanic ash and refused a new lease agreement, the US military bases at
Clark and Subic Bay were closed down and the tens of thousands of US
troops left. It was a heady moment for the Philippines, which had turned
its back on over US$100 million a year in rent from the Americans. The
12 senators who voted to oust the US military became national heroes.
But if people thought that ousting both the Marcoses and the Americans would lead to period of political stability, they were wrong. Cory
Aquino had helped shepherd through a new constitution that greatly limited presidential power to do undemocratic things like declare martial law
or appoint oneself president for life. The first real presidential elections
were held in 1992 and showed how messy democracy could be. Aquinos
endorsed successor, Defense Secretary Fidel Ramos, won with barely 24%
of the vote. This lack of a resounding mandate left people restless.
1941
Japan invades the Philippines and beats the Americans
Empire of Care by
Catherine Ceniza Choy
shows how Filipino
nurses are lured to the
US (and Australia and
Europe) to fill nursing
spots cheaply while the
need for thousands at
home is unmet.
1945
In the battles to retake the Philippines, Manila is destroyed and 1.1
million Filipinos are killed
30 H I S T O R Y P o l i t i c a l U p h e a v a l & H i g h J i n k s
THE BIRTH OF PEOPLE POWER Chris Rowthorn

People Power was born in the streets of Manila in February 1986. As the whole world watched the
gripping drama unfold on TV, millions of Filipinos, armed only with courage and deep religious
faith, poured out onto the streets to defy the military might of the hated Marcos regime. They
came from all walks of life men, women and children, rich and poor, street vendors joining
hands with nuns, housewives linking arms with priests, professionals expressing solidarity with
the unemployed. Some came with transistor radios around which crowds gathered to hear the
latest news, along with admonitions from the head of the influential Roman Catholic Church,
Jaime Cardinal Sin, who had been the first to urge the people to this spontaneous uprising. Soon
a massive sea of humanity had gathered around Camp Aguinaldo and Camp Crame, along Epifanio
de los Santos Avenue, better known as EDSA, where two of Marcos former ministers, Juan Ponce
Enrile and Fidel Ramos, had taken refuge after defecting to the side of the people.
The event marked the end of a long, tumultuous period that started on 21 September 1972,
the day Marcos declared martial law, putting an end to a political system that had been called
a showcase of democracy in Asia. Without warning, an estimated 50,000 were thrown into
detention camps; many of them later vanished without a trace. Among those dispensed with
were prominent political figures such as Benigno Aquino Jr, Marcos principal political rival.
Congress was abolished, newspapers and TV stations were summarily shut down, curfew was
imposed throughout the country, and anybody even slightly critical of the regime was silenced.
Many fled the country and went into exile abroad; others disappeared into the hills and joined
the ranks of the New Peoples Army.
The Philippines languished under Marcos rule for over 20 years. To be fair, his overextended
stay at Malacaang Palace did start legitimately, with the young and charismatic politician with
a much-decorated WWII record winning the 1965 presidential election over Liberal Party candidate, Diosdado Macapagal, father of current President Gloria Macapagal-Arroyo. Marcos, with his
beautiful wife Imelda beside him, swept into office in a Camelot-like atmosphere that recalled
the Kennedy years at the White House. But the veneer of glamour soon wore off, and gradually
Marcos showed his insatiable hunger for power.
Barred from running for a third term, Marcos engineered a series of civil unrests which he
attributed to the rising Communist Party of the Philippines. Among these was an assassination
attempt on his Defense Minister, Juan Ponce Enrile, which Enrile himself later disclosed was
staged by Marcos own henchmen. Even at the time not many people were fooled but there
was little anybody could do to resist Marcos imposition of martial law, especially because he
had the entire military under his control.
Ever patient and resilient, Filipinos might have continued putting up with life under Marcos
were it not for one fatal mistake in the Marcos camp the assassination of Benigno Aquino Jr
Ramos for his part made national unity a priority. He tried to finally
reach peace deals with the patchwork of communist rebels, Muslim separatists and disaffected soldiers who led a rag-tag existence throughout
the islands and frequently resorted to violence to score some attention.
Some treaties and agreements were worked out, but often as one group
would agree to lay down its arms, the members would simply go off and
start another conflict.
Meanwhile there was growing discontent among the populace as it
became clear that just having your own constitution wasnt enough to
shake off years of feeble economic growth. With an economy that had
been dependent on the rent from the US bases and Japanese grants
1946
The USA withdraws and a sovereign state is declared
1965
Ferdinand Marcos is elected president
H I S T O R Y P o l i t i c a l U p h e a v a l & H i g h J i n k s 31
on 21 August 1983. An immensely popular figure who symbolised and embodied the peoples
desire for freedom, Ninoy, as Aquino was known to the masses, was shot dead as he disembarked
a China Airlines flight that had brought him back home from exile in the USA. With his death,
Filipinos felt they had lost their last hope for a peaceful return to democracy. Filled with deep
anguish and despair, some two million mourners followed Ninoys funeral cortege as it slowly
wound its way through the streets of Manila for over twelve hours. They did this out of love for
the slain hero but also to show their anger at the regime.
The decline and fall of the Marcos dictatorship came swiftly after that. By 1986, even the USA,
which had propped up Marcos all those years as a champion of democracy against the muchfeared encroachment of communism in Southeast Asia, began to withdraw its support. With
his diminishing political expediency, along with his failing health, Marcos, once a much-hailed
American ally, had now become a lame duck.
In the face of mounting criticism abroad and rising unrest at home, Marcos called for snap
elections on 7 February 1986. It was a desperate bid to give his rule continued legitimacy. Corazon
Cory Aquino, Ninoys widow, reluctant at first, became the standard bearer of the opposition at
the instigation of Cardinal Sin and the Catholic Church. With yellow as their colour (versus red for
Marcos loyalists), Corys supporters chanted Cory! Cory! Cory! as their battle cry. As expected,
Marcos came out the winner of the election, but that was the straw that broke the camels back.
This time people had had enough. They knew Cory had been cheated, and they were no longer
to be silenced. Amid mounting unrest, Cory went into seclusion in an undisclosed convent. Then
the unthinkable happened the Marcos military machinery started to fall apart.
On 26 February, even as the Marcoses and their diminishing circle of cronies, all dressed in
white, staged a victory celebration in Malacaang Palace, the people on EDSA continued to
defy tanks massed on the ground and fighter jets flying overhead. They sang, chanted, prayed,
shared food and drink, both among themselves and with government troops sent to quell the
rebellion. Religious images were placed in front of the tanks, while children offered flowers to
the soldiers. These same soldiers refused to fire into crowds and eventually went over to the
side of the people. By nightfall, the restless crowds were threatening to storm the palace. At this
point, the US stepped in and advised Marcos to let go. Hurriedly the Marcoses boarded a US
aircraft and flew to Hawaii and into exile.
In 1896 Filipinos threw off the Spanish colonial yoke and established Asias first democracy;
in 1986 they staged the worlds first bloodless revolution, inspiring others to do the same in
Burma, China, Korea and the whole of Eastern Europe. The uprising in Tiananmen Square, though
it failed, owed much to People Power, as did the tearing down of the Berlin Wall. Likewise the
former Czechoslovakias Velvet Revolution was an heir to those momentous events in the streets
of Manila that have become collectively known as People Power.
(which were cleverly designed to turn the Philippines into a market for
Japanese goods rather than a competitor), the nation missed out on the
economic boom that enriched its neighbours.
In 1998, the people turned to popular ex-movie actor Joseph Estrada and
elected him president in a landslide. The colourful Estrada had promised
riches for one and all, but the nation was soon to learn, as others have
elsewhere, that being a movie actor doesnt necessarily prepare one for a
life in politics.
The economy tanked and war broke out with the Moro Islamic Liberation Front in central Mindanao. Then, in 2000, Estrada was accused of
profiting from an illegal gambling racket. The House of Representatives
1972
Marcos imposes martial law on the Philippines
1983
Benigno Ninoy Aquino Jr is assassinated at Manila airport
32 H I S T O R Y P o l i t i c a l U p h e a v a l & H i g h J i n k s
The Fall of Joseph Estrada

is a highly readable
account by Amando
Dovonila of the rise and
crash of the actor who
tried to be president
during the late 1990s.
impeached him but allies in the Senate managed to block his removal
from office. In 2001, millions of Filipinos took to the streets and said
enough. Estrada and his family took flight and the vice-president, Gloria
Macapagal-Arroyo (popularly called GMA) was sworn in as president.
Estrada tried a few ploys to regain power like calling for yet another
peoples revolution but it was for naught. GMA quickly set about
consolidating her power and she allowed the American military back into
the country as part of the war on terror. In 2004 she ran for reelection
against an ensemble cast of characters that included another ex-actor,
Fernando Poe Jr, and won by 1.1 million votes. Or did she? Shortly
thereafter a recording emerged that purported to capture GMA ordering
that the election be fixed. Political opponents seized on this and for the
next year, much of the governments time was spent debating the charges
of election fraud. GMAs opponents tried to raise the ire of the public
but perhaps jaded by the outcomes of previous revolutions, the populace
mostly stayed off the streets.
By late 2005, GMA seemed to have survived this latest political upheaval, as the Philippines continued to suffer from high unemployment,
poverty and other problems that have bedevilled it for decades.
1986
People Power helps chase Marcos from the Philippines and install
Corazon Cory Aquino as president
1991
Mt Pinatubo erupts and the Americans leave their huge military
bases

33

32
33
The Culture
THE NATIONAL PSYCHE
Probably the first thing youll notice about the people of the Philippines
is their calm demeanour. Filipinos greet adversity with all the fuss that
a kalabaw greets a fly on its back they shrug their shoulders, smile
and move on. This whatever-will-be-will-be attitude is called bahala
na, a phrase that expresses the idea that all things shall pass and in the
meantime life is to be lived.
Bahala na has more than a little to do with the Philippines greatest
paradox: despite years of injustice at the hands of colonial and homegrown rulers, and despite being for the most part dirt poor, Filipinos are
the happiest people in Asia. This incongruous joie de vivre is perhaps
best symbolised by that quirkiest of national icons, the jeepney. Splashed
with colour, laden with religious icons and festooned with sanguine scribblings, the jeepney openly flaunts the fact that, at heart, its a dilapidated,
smoke-belching pile of scrap metal. Like the jeepney, poor Filipinos face
their often dim prospects in life with a laugh and a wink.
Another force that shapes Filipino life is hiya, which roughly means
sense of shame. Showing a lack of hiya in front of others is similar to
losing face and, for a Filipino, there are few worse fates. Expressing strong
or negative emotions in public are sure ways to show you are walanghiya without shame. Many foreigners cant accept that, because of hiya,
Filipinos tend to care more about what others think than about doing the
right thing. Yet most problems that travellers run into result from a lack
of respect for hiya and amor propio (self-esteem). The golden rule when
travelling in the Philippines is to treat problems graciously; a smile and a
joke goes a long way, while anger or sullenness just makes things worse.
Alas, theres a dark side to hiya and amor propio. Despite outward appearances, Filipinos can hold a grudge with the best of them. Because of hiya,
these grudges tend to fester until they are settled behind the scenes, often
in unsavoury fashion. The Philippines leads the world in journalists killed
for their work (see p38) not surprising if you consider that being publicly
outed for a misdeed is to suffer hiya in the gravest manner possible.
But the family is an even more potent force shaping the national psyche
than bahala na or hiya. The Filipino family unit, or kinship group, extends to distant cousins, multiple godparents, and ones barkada (gang
of friends); it is both large and intensely close-knit. Rich or poor, Filipino
families protect their own, the public good be damned. This explains many
things that observers often cite as wrong with the country: it explains why
rich, powerful clans are content to build huge fortunes while turning a blind
eye to shocking poverty; it explains why Filipinos routinely urinate on city
pavements and pollute public spaces; and it explains why the best qualified
are passed over in favour of the well connected when applying for jobs.
Despite this, and despite a long history of hardship under the Spanish
and Americans, rich and poor Filipino families alike extend nothing but
the highest degree of warmth and hospitality towards foreign visitors.
LIFESTYLE
First-time visitors to Manila are often lulled into thinking the Philippines
is Westernised. They soon realise that the chain restaurants, shopping
malls and American R&B music disguise a unique Asian culture still very
much rooted in an ancient values system.
President Ferdinand
Marcos planned to
rename the country
Maharlika, or noble
man, until an academic
pointed out the word
also has the meaning big
erection.
34 T H E C U LT U R E L i fe s t y l e
THE HAPPIEST PEOPLE ON EARTH Chris Rowthorn

In a global survey conducted in 2005, Filipinos came out among the worlds happiest people, much
to the Filipinos delight, surprise, and bemusement. As Filipinos see it, theyre no happier than
anybody else on earth. In fact, generally speaking, Filipinos tend to take a rather unfavourable
view of themselves, particularly in comparison with the wealth of Americans, the old culture of
Europeans, the industry of the Chinese, the discipline of the Japanese, and so forth.
But one thing Filipinos have is a boundless sense of humour, and this extends to a rare ability
to laugh at themselves. Perhaps its a kind of defence mechanism, but even in the grim days
under the Marcos dictatorship they endlessly cracked jokes about the police, the military, and
anybody and anything connected with the despised regime. Marcos was the butt of countless
jokes, as was his wife Imelda.
While laughing at their problems, Filipinos are in effect also poking fun at their own helplessness. Filipinos detest anything that acts as an obstacle to their fundamental love of life and
freedom, yet sometimes, when faced with difficulty, a Filipinos reaction is to laugh. To the casual
observer this may seem like an inexplicable bit of frivolity in the face of adversity, but theres
more to it than meets the eye. To Filipinos, freedom is more precious than material wealth, and
if they laugh at something that curtails or threatens this priority, its simply a way of coming to
terms with the situation until they find a way to overcome it.
Filipinos speak some 70 languages and dialects, yet in none of them are there words for depression, anxiety, anguish or even boredom. This says a lot about the natural disposition of Filipinos.
Unlike some other cultures where suicide is seen as an honourable way out, the traditional Filipino
way of thinking does not even consider it an option. No matter how big the problem or how
profound the tragedy, to a Filipino life goes on, it must go on, and thats all there is to it.
The average Filipino has very modest dreams: to have just enough to feed the family and be
able to enjoy the simple pleasures of life. Filipinos may be poor in material things but as long
as theres love and laughter they will find plenty to be happy about.
For centuries, the two most important influences on the lives of Filipinos have been family and religion. The most basic political unit, the
barangay, is merely an extension of the family-based community unit
that defined the social structure in pre-Hispanic times. The idea of
working together for the common good, virtually nonexistent at the
national level, is alive and well at the barangay level, where its known
as bayanihan. Originally a rural entity, the barangay today is no less
relevant in urban shanty towns, where a healthy cooperative spirit is
essential for survival.
Within the family unit, respect for elders is paramount; putting ones
grandparents in a nursing home is frowned upon. Almost without exception, all members of ones kinship group are afforded loyalty and respect.
As a result, homosexuality is tolerated, despite the pervasive influence
of the Catholic Church.
Filipino families, especially poor ones, tend to be large. Its not uncommon for a dozen family members to live together in a tiny apartment,
shanty or nipa hut. Because of this, personal space is not the issue for
Filipinos that it is for Westerners. Foreign visitors to Philippine resorts
are often amazed or appalled when a family of 10 takes up residence
in the room next door, complete with pets, videoke machine and cooking equipment.
While bulging urban centres like Manila and Cebu gradually adapt
to the modern world, in the countryside the traditional rhythms of life
are surprisingly resilient. They centre on the sun, sea, rivers and fields;
clocks are superfluous. Filipino time, which implies fashionably late
in Manila, might mean a few days late in rural barangays. Frequent
T H E C U LT U R E P o p u l a t i o n 35
political turmoil at the national level goes practically unnoticed in rural

barangays due to poor communication lines and the primacy of local
politics. In the most remote provinces, such as Kalinga, old scores are
still settled by the sword and punishment is doled out in accordance with
traditional tribal codes.
The final thread in the fabric of Filipino society is the overseas worker.
Nearly one in 10 Filipinos work abroad. Official figures show that they
send about US$8.5 billion per year back home, or about 10% of the
GDP, but the true figure is probably much higher than that. The Overseas Filipino Worker (OFW) the nurse in Canada, the construction
worker in Qatar, the entertainer in Japan, the maid in Singapore has
become a national hero, actively supported by the government through a
specifically dedicated department, the Philippine Overseas Employment
Administration. When OFWs retire, they often return to their home
provinces as balikbayan (literally returnees to the home country) and
build gaudy concrete homes.
POPULATION
The Philippines population, thought to be between 80 million and 90
million (the 2005 census was cancelled for budgetary reasons), is among
the fastest growing in Asia. While the government claims the growth rate
is slowing, most experts disagree. If the experts are right, the population
will reach 100 million before the end of the decade.
Few outside the Catholic Church and its allies in the national government believe that the exploding population is anything but a major
impediment to solving the countrys poverty woes. Since the Philippine
economy rarely grows as fast at the population in real terms, per-capita
income has remained stagnant for years. By vehemently opposing all
forms of artificial birth control, the Catholic Church has almost singlehandedly precluded an Indonesia-style family-planning program.
As it grows, the countrys population gets younger and more urban.
Nearly a quarter of the population are between 17 and 25 years old. About
half of all people in this once overwhelmingly rural archipelago now live
in urban areas. More than one in eight Filipinos live in Metro Manila
alone; that figure rises to one in four if you include the crowded neighbouring provinces of Batangas, Bulacan, Cavite, Laguna and Rizal.
In stark contrast to Metro Manila, the mountainous provinces of central
Luzon and hard-to-reach coastal provinces like Eastern Samar, Aurora
and Palawan are sparsely settled. Many of the people in these provinces
are subsistence farmers living on the fringe of the cash economy.
MULTICULTURALISM
Ethnologically, the vast majority of Filipinos are related to Malaysians
and Indonesians. Culturally, they represent both East and West, having
welcomed migrants from China, Vietnam, Taiwan, Japan, Korea, the
USA, Europe and India.
Defined by language, the Philippines has more than 100 cultural minority groups, many of which can be divided into three main, blurred
groups: the Negrito, the Igorot and Manobo. While there is a long history
of intolerance toward cultural minorities in the Philippines, most atrocities were perpetrated years ago by the Spanish and the Americans, as well
as the Marcos administration. Filipinos are tolerant by nature and not
inclined to discriminate against immigrants or minorities. Notably, the
ongoing Abu Sayyaf terrorist campaign in Mindanao and Sulu has not
created a major backlash by average Filipinos against Muslims.
Anything you need to

know about Philippine
population demographics
is at www.census.gov
.ph/index.html.
36 T H E C U LT U R E M u l t i c u l t u r a l i s m
All of that said, indigenous peoples have had several well-publicised

clashes with the government over human rights abuses and land rights;
the Kalinga famously resisted a government plan to dam the Chico River
in the 1970s. The Marcos years were full of such injustices, and distrust of
the government among indigenous peoples lingers to this day.
The Negrito
The National Commission

for Culture and the Arts
outstanding website
(www.ncca.gov.ph)
contains primers on all
Philippine artistic genres
and background on the
various ethnic groups
and tribes.
In 1971 National Geographic was convinced

that a Stone Age tribe
of less than 30 people,
the Tasaday, had been
discovered in Mindanao.
It wasnt until 1986
that the Tasaday were
revealed as local Tboli
tribespeople in on a hoax.
Often referred to as the aborigines of the Philippines, the Negrito are represented by the Aeta, Ati, Eta, Ita and Dumagat peoples. Now thought to
number as few as 20,000, the Negrito are generally the shortest, darkest and
most racially victimised of the Filipino people. The Negrito mainly live on
the coastal fringes of North Luzon and in the highlands of Negros, Samar,
Leyte and Panay, where the famously festive Ati are said to have initiated
the present-day Ati-Atihan festivals in Kalibo and surrounding towns.
The Igorot
The Cordillera region of Luzon is home to the mountain-dwelling tribes
collectively known as the Igorot. They include the Apayao (or Isneg), Kalinga, Ifugao, Benguet, Bontoc and Tingguian (or Itneg). While generally
considered unbowed by outside pressures, many Igorot traditions were
suppressed first by the Spanish and then by the Americans. However,
most Igorot rituals, fashions and beliefs remain in some form and some
rural villagers continue to live much as their ancestors did, tending to
rice terraces and living off the land.
The Apayao are traditionally slash-and-burn agriculturists who live in
the highlands of provinces such as Abra, Ilocos Norte and Kalinga-Apayao.
Fierce warriors, the Apayao were the last Igorot tribe to succumb to the
military might of the Americans in the 1920s. Apayao tribes are known for
their strong spirituality and ceremonial feasts, known as say-am.
The Kalinga, once the fiercest Igorot head-hunters, are now known
for their finely woven textiles and age-old songs like the ading, wasani
and dandanag. These typically accompany the bodong (peace rite) after
a tribal war has been settled.
The Ifugao, whose name comes from a word meaning people of
the earth, are former head-hunters, nonpareil woodcarvers and, most
famously, the creators of the Banaue rice terraces, the so-called eighth
wonder of the world.
The Benguet people of the southwest Cordillera include the Ibaloi and
Kankanay tribes. The Ibaloi, centred on Kabayan, are the worlds foremost practitioners of mummification. The Kankanay live in the northern
regions of Benguet Province and parts of Mountain Province.
The Bontoc are another former head-hunting tribe famed for their
rich social traditions and colourful weavings. The Bontoc share a formal
system of social division and courtship that centres on segregated dormitories known as ulog or egban.
With the northwestern Luzon province of Abra as their ancestral domain, the Tingguian are known for their beautifully woven kinamayan
blankets and durable houses.
The Manobo
The term Manobo is used to describe the major indigenous groups of
Mindanao. Of these groups, five regard themselves as Muslim the Badjao,
Maguindanao, Maranao (or Maranaw), Tausag (or Tausug) and Samal.
Regarded as the least Islamic of the Muslim groups, the animist Badjao
are the sea gypsies of the Sulu seas. The Maguindanao are the largest
T H E C U LT U R E R e l i g i o n 37
Cultural Minorities
0
0
CULTURAL MINORITIES
CULTURAL MINORITIES
Ita (Negrito)......................................1
Tingguian (Itneg)............................. 2
Apayo (Isneg)..................................3
Bontocs............................................4
Kalinga............................................ 5
Ifugao..............................................6
Ayta (Negrito)..................................7
Dumagat (Negrito)...........................8
Agta (Negrito)................................. 9
Iraya (Mangyan).............................10
Alangan (Mangyan)........................11
Tadyawan (Mangyan).....................12
Buid (Mangyan).............................13
Hanunoo (Mangyan)......................14
Ati (Negrito)...................................15
Ata (Negrito)..................................16
Bukidnon........................................17
Tagbanua.......................................18
Batak..............................................19
Pala'wan........................................20
Tau't Batu......................................21
Jama Mapun (Muslim)................... 22
Manobo........................................ 23
Bagobo..........................................24
Mandaya, Mansaka.......................25
T'boli.............................................26
Sangir............................................27
Maranao (Muslim)......................... 28
Subanon.........................................29
Samal (Muslim)..............................30
Yakan (Muslim)..............................31
Badjao........................................... 32
Tausug (Muslim)............................33
400 km
250 miles
1
2
4
5
6
7
8
MANILA
9
10
11
12
13
14
18
15
18
18
15 15
15
15
15
19
16
17
18
20
21
20
23
20
28
22
29
22
31 33
29
31
29
23
23
23
24
25
30 31
26
32
31
of all the Muslim groups, famed for their skills as musicians and weavers. The Maranao are the traditional owners of Lake Lanao, and are
among the Philippines most ingenious craftspeople. The Tausag were the
earliest Filipino Islamic converts back in the 15th century and as such
were the ruling class of the Jolo Sultanate. The Samal are the poorest of
the Muslim groups, having long been the loyal subjects of the Tausag
dynasties.
The main non-Muslim indigenous groups of Mindanao are the Bukidnon, Bagobo, Mandaya and Mansaka.
RELIGION
The Philippines is the only predominantly Christian country in Asia
almost 90% of the population claims to be Christian. Over 80% of Filipinos are Roman Catholic. The largest religious minority is Muslim (5%),
although Islam is actually an older presence than Christianity. Filipino
Muslims live chiefly in the Autonomous Region in Muslim Mindanao
(ARMM) and belong to the mainstream Sunni sect.
27
27
38 T H E C U LT U R E W o m e n i n t h e P h i l i p p i n e s
Popular Christian sects include the Jehovahs Witnesses, Mormons

(Church of Latter-Day Saints) and various brands of southern Baptists.
Guards at the Protestant Iglesia Ni Cristo churches, a neo-Christian
sect with gothic revivalstyle churches all over the country, bar entry
to nonmembers and ex-members who drink or gamble. The Catholicbased El Shaddai church, led by the colourful Brother Mike Velarde, has
millions of followers.
While the separation of church and state is formalised in the Filipino
constitution, the tentacles of the Catholic Church extend deep into national
and local politics. A subtle hint from the church can swing a mayoral race
and mean millions of votes for presidential or congressional candidates.
The ebbs and flows of the Filipino calendar year are also deeply influenced by the Catholic Church. The entire nation takes several days off
around Easter for Holy Week, when thousands of devotees take part in
pasyon or pabasa (all-night reading or chanting of passages from the Bible)
and pilgrims flock to churches as part of the Visita Iglesia. Christs passion
and death are observed in stagings of senakulo, realistic re-enactments of
the Crucifixion (complete with actual nails).
To the dismay of the Catholic Church, Filipinos remain stubbornly committed to a host of spirits, goblins and superstitions, which have their roots
in primeval animist beliefs. Such beliefs still prevail in the upland tribes of
North Luzon, Palawan, Mindoro and Mindanao, where people genuinely
believe that caves and forests are inhabited by spirits and witches.
Urban Filipinos also consult a range of faith healers, psychics, fortune
tellers, tribal shamans and self-help books. Visitors to Manila will immediately notice the fondness that cab and bus drivers have for protective
religious icons and supernatural talismans.
WOMEN IN THE PHILIPPINES

The documentary Imelda
(2004) is a telling look
into the psyche of Imelda
Marcos, who cooperated
with Filipina-American
director Ramona Diaz in
making the film, then
later tried to block its
Manila release.
The Philippines has elected two female presidents in the last 20 years, and
plenty of other women have held positions of power since the country
became independent in 1945. Photos of the House of Representatives
dating back as far as the 50s and 60s reveal a chamber that was regularly
20% to 25% female.
Many credit 18th-century revolutionary leader Gabriela Silang with
paving the way for the future success of women in the Philippines. Like
Cory Aquino, who helped topple the Marcos regime, Silang was the widow
of an assassinated dissident. Her husband, Diego, led a revolt against the
Spanish in Ilocos in 1762. When he was killed in 1763, Gabriela took over
the resistance movement, fighting the Spanish valiantly for another four
months before she was captured and publicly hanged in Vigan.
Not all Filipinas reach such lofty heights. Women who are not rich
enough to afford household help are expected to fulfil most of the childrearing, cooking and household duties. While men are allowed even
expected to have a querida (mistress), women guilty of marital transgressions will be shunned by society and beaten or dumped by their
husbands. A 2003 survey showed that 9% of Filipino women had been
victims of domestic abuse. In 2004 President Arroyo signed a law increasing the penalties for spousal and child abuse, but as with most laws in
the Philippines it is enforced selectively if at all.
MEDIA
The Philippines has a vibrant and vocal free press, as anyone who glances
at a newsstand or surfs the local TV channels will notice. After 20 years
of censorship under Marcos, the downfall of the regime ushered in a new
T H E C U LT U R E M e d i a 39
PROSTITUTION IN THE PHILIPPINES

Prostitution and its most insidious form, child prostitution, is a major social issue in the Philippines. Various estimates put the number of sex workers in the Philippines at about 400,000,
with up to 20% of those children. Most prostitutes come from impoverished provincial families
and are easy prey for the girlie bars, which take a majority cut of their earnings in exchange for
bare-essential living arrangements and protection from the police.
Female Prostitution
The Philippines is one of the biggest sex-tourism destinations in the world. Many tourists are
single men who visit sex-tourism hot spots like Angeles, though every big city and quite a few
smaller places cater to this business. In some European and Japanese magazines, the Philippines
is actively promoted as a prime sex-tourism destination. Among the major sex-tour operators is
Japanese organised-crime group Yakuza.
Although prostitution is officially illegal in the Philippines, you dont have to be a detective to
find it being practised. The red-light districts of most big cities operate openly and freely, with
karaoke bars, discos, go-go bars and strip clubs all acting as fronts. The call girls are euphemistically called GROs guest relations officers. The police, many of whom are paid off by the sex
industry, turn a blind eye to the problem. As a result, few foreigners have been prosecuted.
The Asia-Pacific office of the Coalition Against Trafficking in Women (%02-426 9873; www
.catw-ap.org) is located in Quezon City, Manila. Its website has information about prostitution in
the Philippines and several useful links.
Child Prostitution
A dreadful culture of silence surrounds child sex abuse in the Philippines. While hiya plays a big
role in the silence, for the most part this silence is bought. Theres big money to be made in
paedophilia, both by ringleaders who arrange meetings between paedophiles and children, and
by law enforcers who get paid to turn a blind eye. Despite strict laws, the number of foreigners
charged and convicted for child sex crimes in the Philippines is so low as to be an encouragement to foreign paedophiles.
Child-sex tourism is a criminal offence in many countries around the world. Extraterritorial
laws in Australia, New Zealand, the USA and many EU countries mean that prosecution and
punishment can occur in an offenders country of residence, even when the crime took place
overseas. In addition to these laws, tougher action (including imprisonment) is now being taken
in countries that have been documented as centres for child sexual exploitation.
Travellers can contact the Quezon City office of End Child Prostitution in Asian Tourism
(ECPAT; %02-925 2803; www.ecpat.net), a global network of organisations that work to stop child
prostitution, child pornography and the traffic of children for sexual purposes.
era for the press as independent newspapers and magazines mushroomed

overnight. (For suggestions of what to read, watch or listen to, see p432.)
But in one way a free press has also proved an anathema to Filipino society, which prefers to keep its dirty laundry secret. Between 2000 and 2005,
22 journalists were killed in the Philippines, more than anywhere else in
the world besides Iraq. As of 2005, not one person had been convicted for
any of those murders. 17 of the 22 victims were radio commentators.
Theres an unfortunate tendency in some circles to blame the journalists for the problem. In 2005, First Husband Mike Arroyo caused an
uproar when he said that the reason no journalists had been killed in
the province of Negros was because journalists there were responsible
reporters. While Filipino media outlets may go over the top once in a
while, they do not deserve Mr Arroyos suggestion that violence against
irresponsible reporters is justified.
40 T H E C U LT U R E A r t s
ARTS
Music
In 1942 Filipino statesman Carlos P Romulo
became the first Asian
to win a Pulitzer Prize,
for a series of articles on
pre-WWII Asia.
Some of the big OPM acts

have websites where you
can (sometimes) download song samples. Try
www.kitchienadal.com,
www.pinikpikan.com
or www.rivermaya.net.
For OPM gossip and info
try www.philmusic.com.
The Philippines burgeoning music scene is a phenomenon that increasingly unites the diverse range of Filipinos. OPM, as Filipino music is
known (it stands for Original Pinoy Music), encompasses a wide spectrum of rock (Pinoy rock), folk and new-age genres plus a subgenre
that includes all three.
Embodying the latter subgenre is Pinikpikan, a sometimes-frantic fusion of tribal styles and modern jam-band rock. The 11-piece band uses
a plethora of bamboo reed pipes, flutes, and percussion instruments and
sings in dialects as diverse as Visayan, French and Bicol. Grace Nono
is another artist who is squarely in the new-age jungle milieu, but shes
a whole lot mellower. She croons deeply spiritual lyrics in a strangely
melodic tribal squawk.
Moving toward the Pinoy rock mainstream, the eponymous band fronted
by Bamboo dominates the air waves and, even more tellingly, the coverband playlists. The slightly grungy rockers weigh in with a heady mixture
of political invective and ballads laden with angst-ridden garage rock. Even
more popular is the sometimes sweet, sometimes surly diva Kitchie Nadal,
who is starting to tour internationally. Rounding out the big three is the
agreeable Rivermaya, formerly fronted by Bamboo. One rung down on
the popularity charts, Cynthia Alexander and Barbie Almalbis supply Lisa
Loebstyle ballads. All of the above sing in both Filipino and English.
The heyday of Pinoy rock was 30 years ago, when blues-rock outfits
like the Juan de la Cruz Band, Anakbayan and Maria Cafra ruled the
roost. These 70s bands looked and sounded the part, with long hair,
bandanas and endless, soulful electric-guitar riffs. The Juan de la Cruz
Band, which incidentally counted no Juan de la Cruz (equivalent to Joe
Blow in English) among its members, is credited with inventing Pinoy
rock by busting out lyrics in Filipino the first big act to do so. From
those humble origins evolved the Eraserheads, the countrys first modest
international success. This four-man band, known as the Philippines
Beatles, rose to prominence in the early 90s with catchy guitar-heavy alt
rock. Theres also the Philippines U2 The Dawn, a vaguely new age 80s
band and the Philippines Elvis, 60s actor-singer Eddie Mesa.
Folk music has solid roots in the Philippines. Freddie Aguilars Anak, a
song about parent-child relations, propelled him to fame at the beginning
of the People Power revolution in the 1980s. Joey Ayala and his sister,
Cynthia Alexander, play progressive folk infused with tribal elements.
Aguilar plays frequently at his bar, Fame, in Tagaytay, while Cynthia
Alexander runs Conspiracy Bar in Quezon City.
KARAOKE
Many Westerners would sooner have their wisdom teeth removed without anaesthetic than
spend an evening listening to inebriated amateurs pay homage to Celine Dion and Julio Iglesias.
But when Filipinos want to unwind, they often do it with karaoke or videoke as its known
throughout the Philippines.
Filipinos are unabashed about belting out a tune, whenever and wherever, alone or in company. They pursue the craft without a hint of irony, which means that criticising or making fun
of someones performance is decidedly taboo, and may even provoke violence.
With all that videoke going on it can be awfully hard to find peace and quiet in certain tourist
hot spots. If loud, unmelodious singing grates like fingernails on a blackboard, stick to resorts
run by foreigners, which tend to be less videoke-friendly.
T H E C U LT U R E A r t s 41
Dating from the late 19th century, the kundiman genre, with its bittersweet themes of love, fate and death, remains one of the best-loved modes
of musical expression in the Philippines. Traditional musical instruments
used in kundiman include the kudyapi, a hauntingly melodic lute, and
the kulintang, a row of small gongs mounted on a langkungan, a resonating platform.
One Filipino performer who has won international acclaim is Lea
Salonga, the original Miss Saigon. Cecile Licad has likewise built herself
a name globally, principally in Japan, the USA and Europe, as an interpreter of the piano music of Chopin and Schumann. A good overview of
the classical music scene can be found at www.culturalcenter.gov.ph.
Cinema & TV
Southeast Asias most prolific and diverse film industry is undergoing a
profound transition. The countrys mainstream studios put out fewer than
40 movies in 2004, down from an all-time high of 297 in 1997. Big-budget
foreign films are the main culprit, although the local film industrys failure
to shed its low-brow, action-flick straitjacket has plenty to do with it.
The flip side is that an independent film industry is starting to emerge,
although finding screenings of indy films can be a challenge. A couple of
malls in Manila, SM Megamall and Robinsons Place, regularly dedicate
a screen to digitally produced independent films, but they usually run
without subtitles. Theres also the Manila Film Festival in December.
Of the Filipino directors, Erik Matti and Jeffrey Jeturian do some good
work for the big studios; Jon Redd is an indy director to look out for.
The movie industrys golden age was the 1950s, when Filipino films
won countless awards and Manila was Asias undisputed movie capital.
Things tapered off in the 1960s but peaked again in the 1970s as the
industry found a voice amid the repressive censorship of the Marcos
regime. The 80s saw thousands of low-budget, shoot-em-up thrillers
churned out by big Manila studios imitating Hollywood. Such films only
became more popular when sex was introduced into the equation in the
90s a genre dubbed bold.
Over the years, the Philippines has also served as a backdrop for many
big foreign films, most notably Apocalypse Now and Platoon.
As for TV, the two big national networks, GMA and ABS-CBN, compete fiercely for audience through Filipino-language programming aimed
at the lowest common denominator. Racy Latin Americanstyle variety
shows, cheap local soaps and action movies are all common. Cable TV
has plenty of both good and awful American and British programming.
Literature
The grandfather of Filipino literature was national hero Jos Rizal (p26).
His groundbreaking 1887 work Noli Me Tangere (Touch Me Not) and
its 1891 sequel, El Filibusterismo (The Reign of Greed), continue to
interest modern readers with their detailed and insightful observations
of Filipino society under Spanish rule. Rizals Mi Ultimo Adios (My Last
Farewell), penned in Spanish on the eve of his execution in 1896, is a
masterpiece of verse.
Literature was primarily a religious tool under the Spanish, who banned
the works of perceived nationalists like Rizal and the 19th-century epicpoet Francisco Balagtas, one of the first Filipinos to write in Filipino.
Then the Americans came and brought their brand of crisp storytelling
with them. The American influence remained strong after WWII, when
the giants of modern Filipino English-language literature emerged: Nick
Cavite, directed by a pair

of Filipino Americans, is
a low-budget political
thriller that transplants
the viewer to the sweltering streets of Manila. It
did the international film
festival rounds in 2005.
The Great Raid (2005),

about the rescue of 500
American POWs from a
camp north of Manila
in WWII, was shot in
Australia but features
several popular Filipino
actors, including Cesar
Montano.
Crying Ladies (2003),

a comedy about three
women offered jobs to
sob at a Chinese wake,
showcases hot new Filipino director Mark Meily
and the countrys top
actress, Sharon Cuneta.
42 T H E C U LT U R E A r t s
ECO BEAUTIES
As soccer is to Brazilians, beauty pageants are to Filipinos. And when you combine beauty pageants
with environmental awareness you get the Manila-based Miss Earth. This contest, where women
from around the world compete for the title, has dozens of smaller feeder pageants throughout
the country, the winners of which achieve local acclaim and temporary honours. (Miss Manila 1953,
Imelda Marcos, is of course an example of a pageant queen who ascended to greater heights.)
Miss Earth is a pageant with a cause, and the candidates are expected to get involved with the
Department of Tourisms efforts in promoting the country domestically and abroad.
In the casual interview category in Miss Earth, university engineering student Marie Sizjiarto,
the 2004 Miss Philippines winner, stated I would try to put nature in the hearts of people. The
runner-ups slightly less poetic response to vanquish the inimical attitude of the people towards
the environment might have cost her the victory.
Ghosts of Manila (1994)

by James HamiltonPaterson is a chilling yet
entertaining docufiction
of life, death and the
corrupt chains binding
Filipinos in the citys
slums.
Movie stars, generals and

nobodies form a weird
pastiche of characters in
Jessica Hagedorns dark
comedy Dogeaters (1990),
a thinly veiled look at
life in Manila during the
pivotal 1960s and 1970s.
Joaquin, the avant-garde poet Jos Garcia Villa and F Sionil Jose, whose
voluminous works depict the struggles of ordinary Filipinos and skewer
the privileged classs pretensions. Other favourite targets of Joses novels
are the Spaniards, the Americans and Marcos.
A number of expatriate writers have written books set in Manila that
are fun to read while visiting.
Architecture
Since long before the Spanish arrived, the simple, utilitarian nipa hut has
defined Filipino architecture. The most basic nipa hut is made of wood
and bamboo, with a roof of palm thatch cool and breezy in hot weather
and easily repaired if damaged by typhoons.
The Spanish brought new forms of architecture, such as the bahay na
bato (stone house) and squat, fortresslike earthquake-baroque churches.
But the basic design of the nipa hut endured. By the 19th century,
Filipinos of means were building hybrid residences that mixed Spanish
and Asian styles with elements of the nipa hut. These composite structures, distinguishable by their capiz-shell windows and huge upstairs
sala (living room), remain the most elegant and distinctive architectural
specimens the Philippines has to offer. The Spanish colonial city of Vigan
(p147) is the best place to view them, although you will sometimes stumble across fine examples in the most remote barangays.
The American era was characterised by neoclassical architecture, evident in many of Manilas government buildings. During the 1930s, local
architects introduced novel forms of art deco to the urban landscape,
such as the Metropolitan Theater in Manila (p77). The 1970s saw the
emergence of the massive ferro-concrete creations of Leandro Locsin,
who designed the Cultural Center of the Philippines (p82) and the Central Bank of the Philippines. Today the contemporary urban landscape
is dominated by tinted-glass high-rises such as the corporate buildings
along Ayala Ave in Makati and the residential towers of Fort Bonifacio.
Theatre
The older, wiser brother of the local movie industry, Filipino theatre
evolved from marathon chants and epic legends, such as the Ifugao hudhud
(p175), recited by early Filipinos. In the 17th century the Spaniards introduced sinakulos passion plays depicting the life and death of Christ
to convert the locals to Christianity. Other early forms of theatre were
the moro-moro, which glorified the Christian struggle against Muslims
in the 19th century, and a light, localised musical form known as sar-
T H E C U LT U R E A r t s 43
suela, which was used to protest American occupation at the outset of

the 20th century.
When the Americans arrived, English became the language of the national theatrical scene. The journalist, novelist and playwright Nick Joaquin
wrote his signature work, Portrait of a Young Artist as a Filipino, in 1951.
Other important playwrights of the 20th century were Rolando Tinio, whose
Filipino adaptations of English-language classics such as Shakespeares tragedies remain unparalleled in their field; and Rene Villanueva, best known
for his childrens books but also highly regarded as a playwright.
Contemporary playwrights blend tradition with the issues of the day.
The Philippine Educational Theater Association (PETA) has an excellent development program for up-and-coming playwrights. Relatively
recent productions include Nick Pichays modern adaptation of the hudhud, and Floy Quintos satirical Fluid, which skewers Manilas social
climberlaced arts scene.
You can read Rizals Mi

Ultimo Adios in English at
www.philippines-travel
-guide.com/mi-ultimo
-adios.html.
Painting & Sculpture

The most recognisable form of artwork in the Philippines is centuries old
and, in fact, wasnt conceived as artwork; the bulol, the sacred wood figures
carved by the Ifugao, have for centuries been used to guard rice fields. The
names of the sculptors were rarely recorded, but elder Ifugao can often
identify the sculptor of original bulol based on the statues style. Reproductions of these powerful statues flood souvenir shops across the country.
Modern Filipino sculpture is epitomised by Guillermo Tolentinos neoclassical masterpiece in Caloocan City, the resplendent Monumento, honouring the revolutionary hero Andres Bonifacio. Another name visitors may
notice is Jose Mendoza, whose sculptures adorn the streets of Makati.
Painting in the Spanish era was dominated by the two unchallenged masters of Filipino art: Juan Luna and Felix Resurreccion Hidalgo. Lunas vast
Spoliarium and Hidalgos Antigone stunned European art circles when they
won Gold and Silver Medals at the prestigious 1884 Madrid Exposition.
The early 20th century saw the rise of the masters Fabian de la Rosa
and Fernando Amorsolo. De la Rosas work is distinguished by disciplined
composition and brushwork, while Amorsolo painted quintessential rural
Philippine scenes and subjects in a free-flowing, impressionist style.
Vicente Manansala, Arturo Luz, Anita Magsaysay Ho, Fernando Zobel
and Hernando Ocampo were among the great Filipino modernists who
emerged after WWII. Zobel toyed with cubism before becoming the
countrys foremost abstractionist. The brilliant ethnic-Chinese painter
Ang Kiukok, who studied under Manansala, opened eyes with his violent
cubist paintings of fighting cocks, stray dogs and tormented lovers.
The contemporary Filipino art scene is ever abuzz, although its usually
hard to separate the great hopes from the great hypes. The conceptual
artist David Cortez Medalla, based in Britain, has pioneered avant-garde
art movements such as minimalism and performance art. Jordan Mendoza, son of Jose, is an up-and-coming sculptor. In addition to being
well received internationally, artist-with-a-conscience Benedicto Cabrera
(Bencab) has dedicated considerable effort to the development of contemporary art. He has also created a Tam-awan artists village in Baguio, which
aims to preserve and teach the art and culture of the Cordillera people.
Dance
From the dances in mainstream urban society to those performed in
small town fiestas and in remote tribal barangays, Filipino dance is as
rich and varied as the islands themselves.
William Boyds The Blue

Afternoon (1993), which
won the Los Angeles
Times Book Prize in 1996,
skilfully weaves USPhilippine military
relations into a love
story/detective drama
partly set in Manila
in 1902.
Alex Garlands The

Tessaract (1999), a
thrilling romp through
Manilas dark side, was
the second novel penned
by the author of the 1996
cult backpacker hit, The
Beach.
44 T H E C U LT U R E S p o r t
F Sionil Joses Ermita

(1988) is an engrossing
story about privileged
society in the post-WWII
years; his five-novel
Rosales saga follows the
trials of a family from
1872 through the Marcos
years.
The Philippines national folk dance is the tinikling, which involves

a boy and a girl hopping between bamboo poles, held just above the
ground and struck together in time to music or hand-clapping. Some say
this dance was inspired by the flitting of birds between grass stems or a
heron hopping through the rice paddies. A version of the tinikling is the
breathtaking singkil, where a Muslim princess and her lady-in-waiting
weave in and out of four poles struck together at increasing speed.
The mountain people of North Luzon are famed for vigorous hunting
dances such as the tag-gam and victory dances such as balangbang. Down
south, an old favourite is the graceful pangalay, a courtship dance from the
Sulu islands in which women in flowing robes vie for a mans affection.
Two of the best known and most successful Filipino folk-dance troupes
are the Bayanihan National Folk Dance Company, which first wowed
the world in 1958 at the Brussels Universal Exposition, and the Ramon
Obusan Folkloric Group, founded in 1972. Both are resident companies
of the Cultural Center of the Philippines.
Many Filipino ballet talents have won international recognition abroad,
among them Maniya Barredo, former prima ballerina of the Atlanta Ballet, and Lisa Macuja, who played Giselle with the Kirov Ballet in Russia.
Macuja now runs her own ballet company, Ballet Manila.
SPORT
The three-touch rule in
volleyball was instituted
because Filipino players
used to lull the other
team to sleep by passing
only to each other.
First introduced by the American colonial administration as part of a program to Americanise the locals, basketball has blossomed into a national
obsession. Most midsized towns have at least one concrete court with a
corrugated-iron roof. Youll find at least a crude interpretation of a court in
even the poorest, most remote barangays. The Philippine Basketball Association (PBA) is overwhelmingly popular. Most teams, which are named after
sponsors rather than towns, feature one or two former US college stars.
The other big spectator sport is 9-ball billiards, thanks to the international success of Efren Bata (The Kid) Reyes, one of the countrys
few bona fide contemporary sports stars.
The Philippines slim hopes for Olympic glory usually ride on the
diminutive shoulders of its lightweight and featherweight boxers. When
super-featherweight fighter Manny Pacquiao takes the ring, the entire
country comes to a standstill. The fast-paced game of jai alai, or pelota,
which comes from the Basque region of Spain, is also popular. Badminton
is big and getting bigger. Manilas privileged class prefer playing polo or
golfing at one of the many world-class courses around Manila.
FOWL PLAY
Cockfighting is to the Philippines what baseball is to the USA or rugby is to New Zealand. Youll
see cockfights on TV but the only way to truly understand the Filipino passion for the sport is
to go see it for yourself.
Before each fight, the noise level rises to a crescendo as bets are screamed out to middlemen
in a scene reminiscent of a stock exchange. A hush falls over the crowd as the clash begins. The
birds, fitted with lethal three-inch ankle blades, wander around aimlessly for a few moments
before being reminded by their handlers that theres an adversary in the vicinity. The actual
fight, once it finally begins, is short and brutal. The winner is whisked away to a team of waiting
surgeons, who stitch up any gaping wounds and dose the bird with antibiotics. The loser usually
makes his way into the cooking pot.
Western tourists can and often do complain about the practice ad nauseam, but they dont
get much sympathy from Filipinos, who just smile and wonder what all the fuss is about.

45

44
45
Food & Drink

Filipinos love to eat so much so that you could be excused for thinking
that thats all Filipinos ever do. Traditionally, a typical Filipino day comprises up to five meals: breakfast, morning meryenda, lunch, afternoon
meryenda and dinner. Meryenda literally means snack, but dont let
that fool you the afternoon meryenda can include something as filling
as bihon (fried rice sticks) or goto (Filipino congee) plus an assortment
of rice cakes.
Indigenous (or Pinoy) food is normally laid out on the table like a
buffet, allowing the diners either to partake of one dish at a time or all
the dishes at once. Western palates might find the everyday food a bit
too rich and heavy (thats the Spanish influence), but you can always
request something light and healthy like sinigng na sugpo (prawns and
vegetables cooked in tamarind-flavoured soup).
Filipino cooking is a mixture of Malay, Spanish and Chinese influences blended with typical Filipino creativity and joie de vivre. If well
prepared, this cuisine can be really delicious. Unfortunately, as is the case
with similar food in Malaysia and Indonesia, much of what is on offer in
carinderia (cafeterias) or turu-tur (literally point-point, as you point at
your selection from the dishes on display) is prepared well in advance,
and is cold by the time its eaten, which can detract significantly from its
flavour. One way to cope with this, of course, is to ask that your selection
be heated up, and most places will happily oblige.
STAPLES & SPECIALITIES

Travelling around the Philippines can be a culinary adventure, especially
for those in search of something exotic. Regional specialities are a real
treat, and can be full of surprises. In Manila you can sample practically
any type of regional cooking, but theres really nothing like savouring
the delicacies in their place of origin. Tocino (honey-cured pork) and
longganiza (sausages), two of Pampangas specialities, somehow taste
better when sampled amid the provinces cultural heritage. Likewise,
Bicolano cuisine, which is distinguished by a spicy creaminess (from a
mixture of coconut milk and chillies) tastes especially good in the shadow
of towering Mt Mayon. Laing (taro leaves simmered in spiced coconut
milk) and Bicol exprs (a fiery pork dish) are two Bicolano dishes that
are a feast of flavours.
The names of dishes are often constituted by generic terms: adobo
means the pork and/or chicken has been stewed in vinegar and garlic;
sinigng signifies the meat, fish or prawns have been boiled in a sour
soup; ginataan means the meat, fish or vegetables have been cooked in
coconut milk; kinilaw or kilawin is fresh seafood marinated in vinegar or
calamansi (a type of citrus) juice, and spices; and inihaw refers to grilled
meat or fish. See p48 for more details on food terminology.
The Philippines abounds with all kinds of goodies from the sea
snapper, groper, tuna, mussels, clams, oysters, crabs and more. Many
restaurants specialise in fish and seafood; ask your waiter to have your
selection simply grilled and served with freshly squeezed calamansi juice,
and you can look forward to a memorable gastronomic treat.
The bad news for lovers of animals (and vitamins) is that Filipino
dishes tend to be long on meat and short on greens. Popular entres
include kaldereta (also spelt caldereta; meat stew), apritada (also spelled
The Food of the Philippines

by Filipino food guru
Reynaldo Alejandro is an
excellent introduction to
Filipino cooking.
46 F O O D & D R I N K D r i n k s
The Philippine mango

was listed as the worlds
sweetest fruit by the
Guinness Book of Records
in 1955.
afritada, apretada or afretada; pork or chicken in a tomato-based sauce)

and crispy pata (deep-fried pork hock or knuckles). Ihaw-ihaw eateries (which serve the Filipino version of grilled meat and seafood) are
everywhere.
One of the few vegetable dishes to make a regular appearance is pinakbet, a tasty melange of pumpkin, string beans, eggplant, okra and other
veggies, seasoned with garlic, onions, ginger, tomatoes, shrimp paste
and, sometimes, coconut milk. For more on eating vegetarian in the
Philippines, see p48.
If you find that you arent getting enough vegetables while travelling
in the Philippines, one solution is to buy fruit, and vegetables like carrots and cucumber, at the many excellent street markets. Self-catering is
certainly cheap, and fruit and vegetables come in an astonishing variety,
all at very affordable prices. You can also buy fresh fruit and vegetables
at the many supermarkets in the cities.
For dessert (or any time), try halu-hal, an ever-popular choice. It consists of a tall glass packed with fruit preserves, sweet corn, young coconut
and various tropical delights topped with milky crushed ice, a dollop of
crme caramel and a hearty scoop of ice cream. For health reasons, ice
cream from street vendors is probably best avoided, but local brands like
Magnolia and Selecta are quite good.
DRINKS
Nonalcoholic Drinks
Its not a good idea to drink tap water in the Philippines; stick to bottled,
boiled or purified water. The water-refilling stations scattered all over the
country are safe and an environmentally friendly alternative to disposing of empty water bottles. Many accommodation options have built-in
kitchenettes where you can boil your own water.
Tea is served in Chinese restaurants; elsewhere, soft drinks rule. Buko
juice is young coconut juice with bits of translucent coconut meat floating
in it. Its usually sold in the nut, but youd best stick to the type that comes
in a presealed cup or bottle; buko juice is said to be good for staving off dehydration. Guayabano (soursop) juice is sweet and surprisingly refreshing.
The popular little local citrus known as calamansi or kalamansi is used
to make a refreshing cordial or added to black tea. Wondrous curative
powers are ascribed to it, so take a sip and see what happens.
TRAVEL YOUR TASTEBUDS
The Philippines is a good place for culinary daredevils. If youre after a few good been there,
tried that stories, the Philippines is sure to satisfy. Some of the more challenging Filipino culinary
treats include balut, a boiled duck egg containing an embryo that sometimes already has down
or feathers. Strictly for nonpet owners, aso or asusena (dog-meat stew) is said to be tastier than
any other red meat, though we can only report this based on hearsay. Likewise, the white meat
of bayawak (monitor lizard) is a prized delicacy, but you will most probably have to get drunk
first on lambanog (rough coconut wine; see opposite) in order to be able to stomach the idea
of biting into some reptilian meat. Beetles, fried or floating in soup, and steamed tree-ant nests
are two other gastronomic specialities found in the Philippines, though these have become
quite rare, perhaps because of the drastic drop in beetle and ant populations from pollution and
habitat loss. The same is true for frogs and freshwater snails. Finally, if you are really hankering
for something out of the ordinary, you could dig into a nice helping of bopis. An item on the
menu of many eateries specialising in Filipino food, bopis is made of pigs lungs, chopped and
stir-fried. Quite tasty, really, once you get over your initial feeling of revulsion.
F O O D & D R I N K C e l e b r a t i o n s 47
Alcoholic Drinks
At around P16 to P30 a bottle, San Miguel must be one of the worlds
cheapest beers and its not bad, either. These days, San Mig has
stiff competition from other domestic brews and a variety of imports
like Carlsberg; in response, San Miguel Light (a low-calorie beer) was
launched with heavy fanfare in 2000.
Palatable brandies, whiskies and gins are produced domestically; Tanduay Rum is a perfectly drinkable travelling companion (P20 to P30 for
a 375mL bottle) and a handy antiseptic! Rural concoctions include
basi, a sweet, portlike wine made from sugar cane juice. Tuba is a strong
palm wine extracted from coconut flowers; in its roughly distilled form
its called lambanog. Local firewater packs quite a punch your stomach
(if not your head) will thank you in the morning if you partake of the
pulutan (small snacks) always served with alcohol.
CELEBRATIONS
Each village, town and city in the Philippines has its own fiesta, usually celebrated on the feast day of its patron saint, as determined by the
Catholic calendar. In the old days, when life was easier and commodities
were cheaper, every household was expected to prepare food and serve it
to anybody who appeared at the door. Nowadays, food is still prepared
but on a greatly diminished scale, and only people who have been invited
show up at the buffet table. The fare on such occasions can vary from
region to region, but generally it consists of pork, beef and chicken dishes,
sometimes with some fish and seafood thrown in.
Kaldereta (beef or sometimes goat-meat stew), igado (stir-fried pork
liver) and fried chicken are some of the dishes one can expect to find at
a fiesta. Sweet rice-cakes, usually local delicacies, are served as dessert.
Birthdays and other private parties, on the other hand, are usually celebrated with a big plate of pansit (fried noodles), though nowadays they
have been widely replaced by the ubiquitous spaghetti, the local version
of which will strike most Westerners as being unduly sweet. A birthday
cake and ice cream are a must, especially when its a childrens party.
WHERE TO EAT & DRINK

The basic Filipino eatery is a turu-tur, where customers can order by
pointing at the precooked food on display, but Filipino restaurants come
in many guises, from small roadside canteens to huge enterprises like the
popular Gerrys Grill (p102) in Manila. Ordinary restaurants and food
stalls might be alright for a while, but its definitely worth trying wellprepared, authentic Filipino cuisine in one of the pricier places.
If its foreign cuisine youre after, in Manila youll find almost everything under the sun. Other big cities, such as Cebu, also have a good
smattering of foreign restaurants. Likewise, many resorts usually serve a
variety of foreign favourites, with widely varying degrees of success.
American and local fast-food outfits occupy many city street corners,
and offer an inexpensive array of Western fast food, from burgers to
spaghetti and pizza. If you want to try the local version of hamburgers,
spaghetti and fried chicken, step into a Jollibee outlet; its a home-grown
Filipino fast-food chain that has practically taken over the entire country.
Quick Eats
Unlike other places in Southeast Asia, where you can get a complete meal
from street vendors, in the Philippines the wheeled food carts you see on
the street usually offer snacks mainly intended for schoolchildren. Fish
There are over 400

Jollibee restaurants in
the Philippines.
48 F O O D & D R I N K Ve g e t a r i a n s & Ve g a n s
Filipino Cuisine by Gerry

Gelle and Michael
OShaughnessey is a
comprehensive overview
of Filipino dishes and
cooking.
or squid balls are popular, usually fried on the cart in a wok of boiling
oil and served on a bamboo skewer. The customer has a choice of two or
three types of dips, almost all vinegar-based, with one spicy concoction.
Also available from ambulant vendors are balut (carried in a basket) and
a sweet bean-curd snack known locally as taho (carried in an aluminium
container). Around the business centre in Makati, one occasionally finds
parked vans selling ready-to-eat food in plastic bags, but this is a fairly
new trend intended for office workers and found nowhere else in the
country.
Useful Phrases
VEGETARIANS & VEGANS
Food Glossary
If you are vegetarian or vegan, youll have a hard time of it in the meatmad Philippines, and you may even want to consider bringing some
food products from home. Its hard to find soy-based products outside
of places like Manila, where Chinese merchants and restaurants sell tofu,
soy milk and so on. Beans in general dont figure prominently on the
menu in the Philippines. Thus getting adequate and quality protein can
be tricky. If you feel that this is going to be a problem, then it would be
wise to stock up on these products before leaving Manila or Cebu.
Fortunately, excellent fruits and vegetables are widely available in the
Philippines, and every village has at least one stand with colourful wares
on display. Likewise, most turu-tur places offer at least one non-meat
option, usually some version of stir-fried vegetables (although you cant
always be sure what the vegetables were fried in, or if the dish does not
contain small bits of meat). In larger villages and cities, youll also find
small shops that sell bread, cereals, milk etc. And, of course, when you
get to a bigger city like Manila, Cebu or Puerto Princesa, youll find
actual supermarkets which carry a wide range of foods. Again, if youre
setting off for the hinterlands or small islands, its a good idea to stock
up before hitting the road.
If you eat fish and eggs, youll have no problem getting adequate protein
in the Philippines. Almost all restaurants serve some sort of fish dish, and
the catch of the day is often the main dinner course in the islands. Eggs are
widely available (as you would guess from that almost inescapable feature
of the Philippines the morning chorus of roosters).
BASICS
EATING WITH KIDS

Filipinos love children and its not usually a problem to bring even very
young children into restaurants. You wont find too much in the way of
special childrens menus, child seats and the like, but you will certainly
come across cooperative waiters and restaurant owners. For more on
travelling with children in the Philippines, see p435.
HABITS & CUSTOMS

An everyday meal in the Philippines is a fairly informal occasion, though
it can take on the trappings of a formal Western-style dinner in the
houses of the rich. Generally Filipinos eat with a fork and a spoon (no
knife) a fact that most visitors may find a little hard to get used to.
When eating, most Filipinos sit in Western-style chairs (not on the floor,
as is the custom in some other parts of Asia) around a table.
EAT YOUR WORDS

The following words and phrases should be more than sufficient to keep
you well fed in the Philippines. For a menu decoder see p473, and for other
useful Filipino words and phrases, see the Language chapter (p465).
Im a vegetarian.
I dont eat meat.
Do you have any fish?
Whats good?
Please bring
How much?
Is a service charge included?
Until what time are you open?
bread
breakfast
butter
cheese
coconut milk
coffee
cooking oil
dinner
eggs
flour
fork
glass
honey
knife
lunch
milk (fresh)
plate
rice (cooked)
rice (uncooked)
salt
serviette/napkin
snack
spoon
sugar
F O O D & D R I N K E a t Y o u r W o r d s 49
Ak ay bedyetaryan.
Hind ak kumakain ng karn.
May isda ba kayo?
Anong masarap?
Pakidal ang
Magkano?
Kasama na ba ang serbisyo sa tsit?
Hanggang anong oras kayo bukas?
tinapay
almusl/agahan
mantikilya
keso
gat
kap
mantik
hapunan
itlg
arina
tinidr
baso
pult-pukyutan
kutsilyo
tanghalian
(sariwang) gatas
plato
kanin
bigs
asn
serbilyeta
meryenda
kutsara
asukal
MEAT & POULTRY
beef
chicken
duck
goat meat
ham
meat
pork
venison
(karnng) baka
mank
pato
(karnng) kambng
hamn
krn
(karnng) baboy
(karnng) us
SEAFOOD
catfish
clams
crabs
fish
lobster
hit
tuly
alimango (large, thick shelled)
alimasag (spotted, thin shelled)
talangk (small river crabs)
isd
ulng
Dekalb Universitys
SEAsite Projects Filipino
site has a brilliant online
Filipino food glossary at
www.seasite.niu.edu
/Tagalog/filipino_food
_glossary.htm.
50 F O O D & D R I N K E a t Y o u r W o r d s
milkfish
mussels
oysters
shrimp
bangs
tahng
talab
hipon
VEGETABLES
Go to
www.filipinorecipe.com
for an excellent range of
recipes for Filipino dishes,
as well as a good food
glossary and a Filipino
cooking forum.
bean sprouts
beans
bitter melon
cabbage
cassava/manioc
chilli leaves
eggplant
lima beans
okra
potatoes
radish
spinach-like vegetable
squash
string beans
sweet potatoes
tomatoes
vegetables
tog
bataw
ampalay
repolyo
kamoteng kahoy
dahon ng siling
talng
patan
okra
patatas
labans
kangkng
kalabasa
sitaw
kamote
kamatis
gulay
FRUIT
avocado
banana
cantaloupe
custard apple
fruit
grapefruit
lime
lime (local)
mandarin
mango
orange (local)
papaya/pawpaw
pineapple
plum (local)
abokado
saging
miln
atis
frutas or prutas
suh
dayap
calamansi
dalanghita
mangg
dalandn
papaya
piny
sinigwlas
DOS & DONTS

The rules of dining etiquette in the Philippines are pretty similar to those of most Western countries. They include:
Dont speak when your mouth is full.
Dont spit bones etc onto the table or floor.
Dont fill your plate with more than you can eat.
Use a serving spoon, not your personal spoon, to help yourself to the dishes.
Dont make sounds with your mouth when chewing.
If you must pick your teeth, cover your mouth with your hand.
Be attentive to other people at the table.

F O O D & D R I N K E a t Y o u r W o r d s 51
star apple
watermelon
kaimit
pakwn
SPICES & CONDIMENTS
anchovy sauce
fish sauce
garlic
ginger
pepper
saffron
salt
shrimp paste
small hot chilli
soy sauce
sugar
vinegar
bagoong
pats
bawang
luya
pamint
kasubh
asn
bagoong alamng
siling labuy
toy
asukal
suk
DRINKS
beer
boiled water
cocoa
coffee
cold water
(cup of ) tea
ginger tea
hot water
juice
lemonade
mineral water
orange drink
soft drink
water
with/without ice
with/without milk
with/without sugar
serbesa
pinakulung tubig
kokwa
kap
malamg na tubig
(isng) tsa
salabt
mainit na tubig
juice
limonada
mneral water
orens juice
sopdrink
tubig
may/walng yelo
may/walng gatas
may/walng asukal
Asia Recipes
Filipino section at
www.asiarecipe.com
/philippines.html
offers a comprehensive
listing of Filipino
recipes, along with
some fascinating
essays on Philippine
cuisine in the light of
traditional customs
and folklore.

52
E N V I R O N M E N T N a t i o n a l Pa r k s 53
Environment
your timings just right, the magnificent whale shark (known to some
locals as butanding) near Donsol in Sorsogon (p194).
THE LAND
While the pretty yellow-flowered nara is the national tree of the Philippines, the unofficial national plant must surely be the nipa palm,
which lends its name and leaves (used as wall and roof material) to the
traditional nipa hut found all over the country. The national flower of
the Philippines is the sampaguita, a variety of jasmine. The orchid could
also stake a claim as the countrys national flower, with some 900 stunning endemic species, including the waling waling (Vanda sanderiana) of
Mindanao and the red-spotted star orchid (Rananthera mautiana).
Introduced crop species include tobacco and corn. One crop unique
to the Philippines is the pili nut, which is sold in the form of cakes and
sweets, ice cream and even soap. Its harvested from May to October,
mostly around Sorsogon in South Luzon. Abaca, a native hemp plant
used to make rope, is harvested in huge quantities in Mindanao. This
island is also famous for its durian, a fruit as smelly as it is popular. And
on the lovely little island of Guimaras, off Panay, rich red soil produces
what many swear are the sweetest mangoes in the world.
The Philippines stretches some 1900km from north to south, and spans
around 1110km from east to west. Two main islands and one island
group Luzon, the Visayas and Mindanao divide the country into
north, central and southern regions respectively, though Filipinos tend to
use southern Philippines to cover anything beyond the Bicol region.
The Philippines is comprised of 7107 islands, and the largest islands are
Luzon (105,000 sq km), Mindanao (95,000 sq km), Samar (13,100 sq km),
Negros (12,700 sq km), Palawan (11,800 sq km), Panay (11,500 sq km),
Mindoro (9700 sq km), Leyte (7214 sq km), Cebu (4400 sq km) and
Bohol (3900 sq km).
Some geologists believe the Philippine islands rose from the sea in a
massive volcanic eruption, one of many in the Pacific Oceans Ring of Fire
volcanic region. Most scientists, however, favour the idea that the islands
are the tips of a long-submerged land bridge that once allowed for a hell of
a hike from China to Australia via Borneo, Indonesia and New Guinea.
Mountains cover a total area of about 300,000 sq km, with most ranges
inland on the three main island groups. Peaks range from around 1000m
to almost 3000m in height; while Mt Apo (2954m) in Mindanao is the
countrys highest summit, the countrys most commanding and bestknown mountain is Mt Mayon in the Bicol region.
Limestone caves are found on many of the islands, with the best known
being the Subterranean River in Sabang, Palawan; the caves around Sagada in the Cordillera, North Luzon; and the Callao Caves in the Cagayan
Valley, North Luzon.
WILDLIFE
Check out Conservation
Internationals biodiversity-hot-spot information on the Philippines
at www.biodiversity
hotspots.org/xp
/Hotspots/philippines.
The Philippines is one of the earths biodiversity hot spots, with an

estimated 13,500 plant species, 1100 land vertebrate species (over 550 of
which are birds) and some 500 species of coral. Perhaps more impressive
is the number of species found only in the Philippines some 3200 plant
species, over 100 mammal species, and at least 170 bird species.
Animals
The best-known Philippine member of the bird family is the haribon (Philippine eagle), said to be the worlds largest eagle; only about 100 survive
in their natural habitat on the island of Mindanao. Further south, the Sulu
hornbill of Sulu, Jolo and Tawi-Tawi is an amazing and elusive mountaindwelling bird. The Palawan peacock pheasant is a remarkable bird: the
males of this species have a metallic blue crest, long white eyebrows and
large metallic blue or purple eyes on the tail. Nearing endangered status,
these ground-dwellers are found only in the deepest forests of Palawan.
Of the reptile family, Southeast Asia travellers will be most familiar
with the gravity-defying, mosquito-chomping gecko and its raspy tap
tap tap mating call. More elusive scaled beasts include the sailfin dragon
and the flying lizard discovered by national hero Jos Rizal while he was
exiled in Dapitan on Mindanao and a wide variety of venomous and
nonvenomous snakes, including pythons and sea snakes.
The Philippines is said to still be home to the sea cow, or dugong
(known locally as the duyong), once found in great numbers in Philippine
waters but now rare. Youre more likely to spot dolphins, whales and, if
Plants
Get to know more

about the Philippines
rich biodiversity and its
vanishing species at the
Philippine Department of
Environment & Natural
Resources (DENR) site at
www.psdn.org.ph/nbsap
/main.html.
Endangered Species
Huge numbers of the Philippines animal and plant species are in danger of
extinction. Of the Philippines animal species, 47 are critically endangered,
44 are endangered and 103 are vulnerable. Thirty-seven plant species are
critically endangered, 28 are endangered and 128 are vulnerable. The Haribon Foundation (www.haribon.org.ph) provides information on endangered species in the Philippines and the foundations efforts to protect them.
NATIONAL PARKS
There are estimated to be 62 national parks in the Philippines (some
governmental agencies list as few as 59 and others as many as 72). In
addition to national parks, there are also seven wildlife sanctuaries. The
first national park was established in the Philippines in 1932. Unfortunately, it is estimated that only seven of the Philippines national parks
would actually satisfy international criteria for a true national park. In
most Philippines national parks there are human habitations, sometimes
extensive, and many of the parks are subject to cultivation, logging or
fishing. Despite this, some of the areas designated as national parks in
the Philippines do contain some stunning tracts of wilderness and natural scenery, and they are certainly well worth visiting. The following are
some of the more interesting of the Philippines national parks.
At 476,588 hectares, Northern Sierra Madre Natural Park in Luzon is the
Philippines largest protected area, equivalent to 50% of the countrys
remaining primary forest. For information on this area see p178.
Mt Isarog National Park in Luzon is home to Mt Isarog (1966m), the presently dormant second-highest volcano in Bicol (southeast Luzon). The
park and the volcano are one and the same, as Mt Isarog stands on its
own. Malabsay Falls, near the parks entrance, is a popular picnic spot
for city dwellers. For details on hiking here see p189.
One of the last remaining grazing patches for the indigenous tamaraw
(Bubalus mindorensis), Mt Iglit-Baco National Park (Mindoro) is vital for the
survival of this critically endangered cousin of the water buffalo, which,
along with the local indigenous Mangyan people, has been threatened by
the steady reduction in grasslands caused by farmers encroaching on the
The worlds biggest pearl

was found by a Filipino
diver in the waters off
Palawan in 1934. It
weighed over 6kg and
was valued at US$42
million.
54 E N V I R O N M E N T N a t i o n a l Pa r k s
E N V I R O N M E N T E n v i r o n m e n t a l I s s u e s 55
National Parks
0
0
NATIONAL PARKS
A
NATIONAL PARKS
Agoo-Damortis NRA........................1
Apo Reef NP....................................2
Aurora Memorial NRA.....................3
Balbalasang Balbalan NP..................4
Bicol NP...........................................5
Bulabog Puti-an NP..........................6
Bulusan Volcano NP.........................7
Calauit SNR......................................8
Central Cebu NP..............................9
Cleopatra Needle NWS..................10
Cuyo 'English Game' SNR..............11
Eagle Conservation Centre.............12
Fuyot NRA.....................................13
Hundred Islands NP........................14
Lake Danao NP..............................15
Lake Mahagnao Volcanic NP.........16
Liguasan Marsh NWS.................... 17
Minasawa Island SNR.....................18
Morenton Peak SNR.......................19
Mt Apo NP.................................... 20
Mt Arayat NP.................................21
Mt Banahaw-Cristobal NRA...........22
Mt Bantalingahan NWS..................23
Mt Calavite NWS...........................24
Mt Guiting-Guiting Natural Park....25
Mt Iplit-Baco NP............................26
Mt Isarog NP.................................27
Mt Kanlaon NP..............................28
Mt Malindang NP.......................... 29
Mt Mayon Volcano NP..................30
Mt Pulog NP..................................31
Naujan Lake NP.............................32
Northern Sierra Madre NP..............33
Patag NP........................................34
Puerto Princesa Subterranean NP...35
Quezon NRA.................................36
Sohoton Natural Bridge NP............37
Turtle Island NP..............................38
Twin Lakes NP............................... 39
Ursula Island SNR...........................40
NP National Park
NRA National Recreation Area
NWS National Wildlife Sanctuary
SNR Strict Nature Reserve
C2
C3
C2
C2
C2
C3
D3
C3
D3
C3
C3
D4
C2
C2
D3
D3
D4
C2
B4
D4
C2
C2
B3
C2
C3
C3
D2
D3
D4
D3
C2
C3
C2
D3
C3
C2
D3
B4
D3
B4
400 km
250 miles
The El Nido Marine Reserve encompasses the islands of the Bacuit Archipelago, off of the northwest coast of Palawan. A wonderland of jagged
cliffs (both above and below sea level), hidden lagoons and secret beaches,
the reserve is one of the most lovely seascapes in the Philippines. For
more details see p424.
ENVIRONMENTAL ISSUES
Land
4
13
33
14
31
1
3
21
MANILA
18
36
22
5
24
27
30
32
26
8
2
11
25
37
15
16
34
28
10
9
35
39
23
40
29
19
17
20
38
12
area. There are also many other endemic species in the park. See p222
for information on visiting this park.
Mt Guiting-Guiting Natural Park (Sibuyan Island), a mountainous 16,000hectare forest in the Romblon group of islands, is a rare slice of living
history and one of the finest natural wonders in Asia. For thousands of
years the spectacular slopes of 2058m-high Mt Guiting-Guiting have
nurtured and protected a world that would have long ago been destroyed
by human activity if not for its isolation. Geologically and biologically,
Sibuyan Island is a relic from the ice age. Several quite bizarre species
of fruit bats, more than 100 known bird species and large macaques live
among the ancient teak trees of the park. Some species are found nowhere
else in the world. For more details see p343.
The beauty of Coron Island lies in the fact that it was left alone for so
long. Managed properly, the islands virgin forests, pristine lakes and
stunning cliffs should stay just as they are. An ancestral domain of the
native Tagbanua tribe, the island is best accessed from nearby Busuanga
Island. For details on Coron Island, see p430.
Before 1900, about two-thirds of the Philippines was covered with dense
primary rainforest. Now, according to the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations State of the Worlds Forests 2005 report,
around 24% of the Philippines is forested, and only a small percentage
of this area is true primary forest. Furthermore, only 11% of the Philippines total forest area is classified as protected, while 75% is classified
as production forest. More alarmingly, the rate of deforestation is high:
between 2000 and 2005, the Philippines lost an estimated 7870 sq km of
total forest area. Although this last figure may seem relatively small, the
forest in question is some of the last primary rainforest in Southeast Asia,
and is home to an astonishing variety of plant and animal species.
Environmentalists have noted bitterly that much of whats left of Philippine forests is too high up for loggers to be bothered with, or its
scrappy secondary forest yet to be eaten up by the ravenous Integrated
Forest Management Agreements (IFMA, formerly the Timber License
Agreements) that have allowed most of the damage.
This modern disaster has been caused by unregulated logging, massive
farming expansion and a migrating lowland population. Throughout the
20th century, indigenous peoples claims on upland regions were ignored
and rich resources were plundered by a powerful elite. Poor lowland
communities headed for the hills, often to jobs clearing land, and the
indigenous residents were pushed onto less and less fertile land.
In 1998, 100,000 families on Mindanao faced eviction from their smallscale farms to give way to the palm-oil industry of Malaysia. Around the
same time, families from the indigenous Manobo groups were forced to
evacuate their traditional homeland and flee to Davao City due to regular
military operations in the area. Despite having an officially recognised
ancestral domain claim on the area, the Manobo people found themselves
at the centre of a bitter land dispute with the timber company Alcantara
& Sons, who the government had allowed to commercially log there.
The battle to save whats left of the upland forests has begun with indigenous land-rights claims and new conservation policies, but theres still huge
pressure on the government from both domestic and foreign land interests.
The Department of Environment & Natural Resources (DENR), the environmental arm of the government, is entrusted with the task of wrenching
the countrys resources out of corporate hands and into community-based
projects. Respect for ancestral domain rights and forest boundaries is seen
as integral in the fight to retain whats left of Philippine forests.
Various attempts to rejuvenate degraded forests have been plagued by
poor management and the effects of unchecked introduced species, and
in some cases degraded forests have simply been degraded further. New
strategies for these areas include localised sustainable management programmes, natural resource mapping and (at long last) taking the advice
of indigenous experts.
Of course, the Philippines isnt alone in its tendency to talk rather than
act when it comes to halting such degradation. Nor is it the only nation
with a long history of exploitation by outside forces.
Saving the Earth: The

Philippine Experience
(ed Cecile CA Balgos)
is a compilation of
investigative reports on
the environment of the
Philippines, all previously
published by the Philippine Center for Investigative Journalism.
56 E N V I R O N M E N T E n v i r o n m e n t a l I s s u e s
Rich in mineral, timber and marine resources, the Philippines has been
beaten, raped and robbed as brutally as any developing nation on earth.
As recently as 1995, a mining act was amended to effectively encourage
the destruction of rich wildlife and tribal areas such as those around Sipalay and Hinoba-an (Negros province). Its a testament to the land and
its people that so much pristine natural beauty is still intact.
Sea
The Philippines is
reported to have the
highest concentration
of coral species of any
country on earth; of the
estimated 500 species of
coral in the world, 488
are thought to be present
in the Philippines.
The Green Guide (ed

Howie G Severino) is
an excellent source of
information on Philippine
environmental issues.
It includes information
about endangered
species and government
and nongovernment
environmental organisations. Its published by
the Philippine Center for
Investigative Journalism.
With a coastal ecosystem stretching almost 20,000km, the Philippines is

one of the earliest victims of rising global ocean levels and temperatures.
Centuries-old coral is dying almost overnight and its no longer just divers
in remote spots who are witnessing this poorly understood phenomenon.
Snorkellers in tourist haunts around Puerto Galera (Mindoro) and Boracay
(Panay) can now see for themselves what a coral graveyard looks like.
In mid-1999, regional marine science studies grimly reported that increased sea temperatures were causing mass coral-bleaching events in the
worlds best coral reefs. These studies indicate that unless something is done
to reduce global warming, the Philippines magnificent underwater world
will be gone by around 2100 along with Australias Great Barrier Reef.
In the meantime, increasingly desperate fishing communities are robbing waters even of staple fish species. In many areas healthy coral reefs
are being destroyed by dynamite, cyanide and chlorine fishing methods.
Cyanide stuns fish so they can be caught live and sold for a higher price,
but at the same time it kills the coral.
Its value as a marine nursery disastrously underestimated, the mangrove
ecosystem that once supported ocean life on the Philippine coast has more
than halved since it was first monitored in 1918. Of the remaining mangrove ecosystems, around 65% are in Palawan. An estimated 95% of the
countrys commercial saltwater fishponds are converted mangrove forest.
Equally underestimated is seagrass, which once sustained huge numbers
of vegetarian marine creatures such as turtles, sea urchins and dugongs.
Seagrass also shielded smaller organisms from predators, produced oxygen,
regulated salinity levels, filtered impurities and stabilised the sea bed. Vast
swathes of this stuff have gone the same way as the old-growth mangrove.
Environmental Activism
Its certainly not all bad news on the Philippine environmental front.
The countrys many environmental groups are passionate and vocal, and
numerous local governments have put their weight behind the establishment of marine and wildlife reserves, and have actively campaigned
against destructive mining, development and energy projects.
The following websites contain information related to the environmental concerns facing the Philippines. Some are Philippines-specific,
others address the problems in a worldwide context.
Coral Cay Conservation (CCC; www.coralcay.org) Works to protect coral reefs and other marine
environments.
International Marinelife Alliance (IMA; www.marine.org) Includes information on sustaining

the worlds coral reefs.
Negros Forests & Ecological Foundation Inc (NFEF; www.nfefi.org) Works to protect various
Philippine habitats, focusing on Negros.
One Ocean (www.oneocean.org) Works to protect and manage Philippine coastal areas.
Rainforest Action Network (RAN; www.ran.org) Provides excellent general information on
rainforests and rainforest conservation, with information on the Philippines.
Silent Sentinels (www.abc.net.au/science/coral) Presents an Australian ABC science forum about
coral and global warming.

57

58
59
Diving in the Philippines

Many of the Philippines 7107 tropical islands, as one might expect, have
superb diving offshore. Walls, canyons, wrecks and coral gardens too
numerous to count beckon experienced divers and novices alike.
There are literally hundreds of dive centres dotted throughout the
islands, and remote dive sites, such as the perennial Tubbataha and
Apo Reefs, together with sea mounts and offshore reefs beyond count,
complete the diving landscape and are visited by a variety of customised
bangka (outrigger) safari boats and live-aboards (boats that divers sleep
on during dive trips; for more details on live-aboards, see p433).
The amazing diversity of marine life, large and small, dwarfs other
popular diving destinations such as Australias Great Barrier Reef. Divers
who have travelled throughout the Asia Pacific region know that the
Philippines is one of the worlds best diving locations, with sites that will
thrill even the most jaded of divers.
PRACTICALITIES
WHEN TO GO
Many parts of the country boast year-round diving, but the Philippines
is affected by the annual cycles of the northeast and southwest monsoon
winds that create a dry season (November to May), and a wet season
(June to September), as well as by typhoons that visit the country periodically from June to January.
Dry Season
The northeast monsoon winds affect the country from November until
April, dispelling much of the remaining rain. But while the sea state can
be quite choppy and turbid during these months, many dive centres have
alternative sites to visit if weather disturbances are affecting specific areas.
November 15 is generally regarded as the start of the tourist season by
dive operators throughout the country. Christmas and New Year see
most dive centres and resorts overflowing with divers, so reservations are
recommended. The sea conditions improve throughout February, and by
mid-March the sea is often flat, calm, and a brilliant azure, with incredible visibility that peaks during April and May in many areas.
Wet Season
The southwest monsoon winds usually start to blow around the end of
April, often bringing a welcome April shower or two, but the first rains
usually appear by early to mid-June as the winds start blowing; the rain
gradually builds up from an hour or sos worth a day to major tropical
downpours that can last for days. While this can cause lowered visibility, the nature of many of the diving areas is such that there are usually
sheltered spots in the lee of the prevailing winds that afford reasonable
diving and adequate visibility.
Remote live-aboard and safari diving is not recommended, and is
rarely offered from July through to November in most parts of the country. In some areas, such as Boracay, many dive operators close down until
October or November. In many other parts of the country, dive centres
remain open year round and offer complete dive services to visitors.
Diving & Snorkeling

Philippines, published by
Lonely Planet, is a great,
detailed guide to the dive
sites of the Philippines. It
neatly supplements the
information in this book
and can be purchased at
http://shop.lonelyplanet
.com.
60 D I V I N G I N T H E P H I L I P P I N E S P r a c t i c a l i t i e s
SAFETY GUIDELINES
Before embarking on a scuba-diving, skin-diving or snorkelling trip, carefully following the points
below will help ensure a safe and enjoyable experience.
Possess a current diving certification card from a recognised scuba-diving instructional
agency (if scuba diving).
Be sure you are healthy and feel comfortable diving.
Obtain reliable information from a reputable local dive operation about physical and
environmental conditions at the dive site.
Be aware of local laws, regulations and etiquette about marine life and the environment.
Dive only at sites within your realm of experience; where possible, engage the services of a
competent, professionally trained dive instructor or dive master.
Be aware that underwater conditions vary significantly from one region, or even site, to another. Seasonal changes can significantly alter any site and dive conditions. These differences
influence the way divers dress for a dive and what diving techniques they use.
Ask about the environmental characteristics that can affect your diving and how locally
trained divers deal with these considerations.
The Philippines is also affected by typhoons that influence weather

conditions throughout the islands during much of the wet season. The
Pacific eastern coast is battered hard by approaching typhoons, which
explains why most of the countrys dive centres are located further to the
west. Typically, the later in the season a typhoon strikes, the stronger it is
likely to be.
WHAT TO BRING
Dive centres these days are typically well stocked with a wide variety of
well-maintained and reasonably new rental equipment. Technical divers
will find what they need at dive centres offering technical diving, including reels and accessories, mixed gas and, in many cases, rebreathers.
Many operators also sell equipment, and most internationally recognised
brands can be bought and serviced throughout the islands.
CERTIFICATION
For a comprehensive
list of dive centres in
the Philippines,
do a search on
www.dive-centers.net.
All dive centres in the Philippines require that a diver be certified by a

recognised international training agency, and many operators will also
ask to see a log book to assess a divers experience. Most live-aboard
trips require at least an advanced certification, but the good news is that
training is both widely available and great value throughout the country.
Whether you are an entry-level scuba diver looking to learn with a professional dive centre or an experienced technical diver seeking to become
an instructor trainer, the Philippines is an excellent place both to learn
to dive and for ongoing training. The industry leaders, the Professional
Association of Diving Instructors (PADI), account for the majority of
dive certifications issued in the Philippines, and there are many PADIaccredited dive centres and dive resorts covering the full range of affiliate
statuses, usually a good indication that a dive centre follows high safety,
ethical and professional standards. Other training agencies are also well
represented throughout the country. Among them are the National Association of Underwater Instructors (NAUI), Scuba Schools International
(SSI), Confdration Mondiale Des Activits Subaquatiques (CMAS),
Scuba Diving International (SDI), Technical Diving International (TDI),
D I V I N G I N T H E P H I L I P P I N E S D i v e S i t e s 61
American Nitrox Divers International (ANDI) and the International Association of Nitrox and Technical Divers (IANTD).
Courses
The complete range of courses from entry level to instructor are widely
available with regular Instructor Development (ID) and Instructor Evaluation (IE) courses held throughout the country. The Philippines is an
excellent place to consider doing a dive-master internship. From December to May, many dive centres in places such as Puerto Galera and
throughout the Visayas have the necessary stream of divers, both students
and certified, that a dive-master trainee requires to fulfil the course requirements in a timely way.
As mentioned earlier, technical diving is big throughout the Philippines, and there is no shortage of deeper sites for technical training.
Some live-aboards also offer technical diving, mixed gas and rebreather
equipment and training on request to qualified divers.
DIVE SITES
Divers of all levels will find challenges and adventure aplenty throughout
the Philippines. Whether you are more comfortable diving on a shallow
coral garden or are looking for deep technical dives, the Philippines is one
of the worlds best diving destinations. It has a profusion of wrecks, walls
and reefs, many teeming with marine life ranging from tiny, unique nudibranchs (sea slugs) to giant whale sharks and everything in between.
The diving environment can often be deceptive. Clear water and great
visibility can lead to disorientation and going below the planned depth
easily. Currents can be a major factor on many dives, and the sea conditions and weather can change in a matter of minutes at certain times of
the year, from flat, calm and sunny to big waves, wind and rain.
To get the most out of your diving experience and to avoid unnecessary risk, it is strongly advised that you dive with a local dive operator
that displays a high degree of professionalism. A PADI affiliation can be
a good indication of a dive operations commitment to safety and customer service. In addition, check out an operators safety procedures and
emergency plans. Ask if the operator has oxygen, if it is brought along
on dive boats, and if there are personnel that are trained to administer
it on board too. Take a look at the rental equipment: is it relatively new
and well maintained? Are the classrooms equipped with audiovisual aids?
And finally, as there are hundreds of international dive professionals
working throughout the country, find one that speaks a language you
are comfortable with.
The following dive-site descriptions represent just a few of the hundreds
of sites that are visited regularly by divers throughout the Philippines.
LUZON & AROUND

Luzon, the main island of the country, is home to the capital, Manila. It
is also home to the capital of scuba diving in the country, Anilao (p123),
in Batangas province, where many Manila-based divers make their first
training dives. Anilao is busy most weekends with city-dwelling enthusiasts, as it is a convenient two-hour drive from Manila. Accordingly,
you can often negotiate a good deal if youre diving in Anilao during the
week. Most diving in Anilao, as with much of the rest of the country, is
done from outrigger bangka boats.
Tanikalang Ginto has

a fantastic selection of
Philippine dive websites
at www.filipinolinks
.com/Sports/Diving.
The Philippines has the

highest density of coral
species (488) of any
country in the world.
62 D I V I N G I N T H E P H I L I P P I N E S D i v e S i t e s
The most famous dive site in Anilao, and arguably in the country, is
Cathedral Rock, a marine sanctuary just offshore from Dive 7000 Resort.
The site is populated by thousands of persistent reef fish who are used to
being hand-fed and swarm fearlessly around divers looking for handouts.
The bottom here descends below 30m, but most of the action takes place
at around 20m or less.
Nearby Sombrero Island presents a cavalcade of crevices and coral- and
gorgonian-covered boulders which attract pelagics (open sea marine life)
such as rainbow runners and yellowtails. Maximum depth here is 27m.
Other Anilao sites include Mainit, a steep rocky reef festooned with
hard and soft corals to 35m; Caban Cove, a relatively shallow (25m) sheltered site that is prone to currents, and the Hot Springs (21m), a unique
site that has volcanically heated water seeping from cracks in the seafloor,
attracting several species of shark, ray and the ubiquitous frogfish.
On the west coast of Luzon, Matabungkay (p119) is a good jump-off
spot to dive Fortune Island with its coral-festooned drop-off, home to
pelagics, reef fish and sharks. A bat cave can be entered through an underwater tunnel on the west side.
EMERGENCY
The Philippines is not a centralised country: by default, most of the emergency contact numbers tend to be local. In many instances youre better served by coordination with local baryo,
barangay, police, military and hospitals. Your dive operator should have an effective emergency
plan and be able to make the necessary arrangements should you find yourself in need of assistance. If this is not the case, the following information may be useful in arranging evacuation
and medical treatment. Youll also find local emergency numbers in the Information sections of
regional chapters of this book.
Recompression Chambers
There are five recompression chambers in the Philippines, but air-evacuation options are limited and
transport times can be lengthy. For this reason it pays to dive conservatively in the Philippines.
Never arrive at a recompression chamber without calling first. You can save valuable time
if the chamber staff can assist with transportation or refer you to another facility when their
chamber is in use.
Batangas (%043-723 7098; Batangas Hyperbaric Medicine and Wound Healing Center, St Patricks Hospital
Medical Center, Lopez Jaena St, Batangas City, Luzon) Contact: Michael Perez, MD.
Cavite (%046-524 2061, ask for Sangley operator and request local 4490, 4191 or 4193; Sangley Recompression
Chamber, Philippine Fleet, Naval Base Cavite, Sangley Point, Cavite City, Luzon) Contact: Capt Pablo Acacio.
Cebu City (%032-232 2464-8, local 3369; Viscom Station Hospital, Camp Lapu Lapu, Lahug, Cebu City) Contact:
Mamerto Ortega or Macario Mercado.
Manila (%02-920 7183, 921 1801, local 8991 or 6445; Armed Forces of the Philippines Medical Center, V Luna
Rd, Quezon City) Contact: Jojo Bernado, MD, or Fred C Martinez.
Subic (%047-252 7052, 252 7566; Subic Bay Freeport Zone, SBMA, Olongapo City, Zambales) Contact: Lito Roque.
Evacuation Services
Both the Philippine Air Force and private operators such as Subic Seaplanes can assist with
evacuations. However, their range is limited and you cant expect them to miraculously appear
in the middle of places like the Sulu Sea.
Philippines Air Force Search & Rescue (%02-854 6701, 853 5013, 853 5008; Villamor Air Base, Pasay
City, Manila)
Subic Seaplanes (%047-252 2230, 0919 325 1106; Subic Bay Freeport Zone, Zambales)
The former US Naval Base of Subic Bay (p130), in Zambales province,

has several wrecks to dive including the impressive USS New York (p131),
which rests at 28m in the harbour on its port side. The wreck is penetrable, but this is a huge ship and it is easy to get fatally lost in the endless
corridors and passageways, so appropriate training and an experienced
guide are vital. Other wrecks in the harbour include the Oryuku Maru,
or Hell Ship, in which 1600 US prisoners of war were imprisoned and
mistakenly killed during an air attack, the El Capitan, a well-preserved
site favoured by photographers for its general intactness, penetrability
and prolific marine life, and the San Quintin (16m), home to larger fish
such as wrasse, tangs, glasseyes and sweetlips.
Along the west coast heading north there are a number of sites that
are less well served by dive operators, until you get to San Fernando and
the Lingayen Gulf (p139) in La Union Province. Here, a huge coastal reef
system, Research Reef, runs for over 3km along Bauang (White) Beach
at a depth of between 2m and 28m. There are several other reefs in the
nearby bays to the north, including VOA, a colourful coral garden with
a white-sand bottom that give unusual clarity to the water. The Black
and Red Buoys marking the entrance to San Fernando Harbour (they are
marked on charts, but usually one or both is actually missing) are both
great dives. They have caves and canyons, and whitetip and blacktip reef
sharks at 22m to 30m.
Several kilometres offshore is the huge Fagg Reef, which is on the
edge of the relatively shallow shelf of the Lingayen Gulf, and where
the western-facing wall drops off to unfathomable depths. Current and
decompression issues here are paramount, especially if planning to dive
the three WWII vintage tanks resting on a ledge of the impressive wall
at 40m. There is also a huge variety of marine life here.
Rounding out Luzon, we must mention Donsol (p194), in the southeastern province of Bicol, where whale sharks can be found in the silty
waters of Donsol Bay. The season for snorkelling with the sharks is very
brief, from 1 February to 31 May.
MINDORO
The Spanish named Mindoro after a gold mine, but for divers, the most
exciting treasure is under the water. Countless small harbours, coves
and bays decorate an emerald-green coastline, overlooked by towering
mountains. Beneath the water, coral-rich reefs are full of marine life of
all shapes and sizes. Mindoros sites are suitable for snorkellers and divers
of all levels of training.
Puerto Galera (p205) is a major training centre, and there are over
20 professional dive operations along the three main beaches of Sabang
(p210), Small La Laguna (p213) and Big La Laguna (p214). There are many
other resorts tucked away in coves and on private beaches on both sides
of the isthmus. The isthmus itself juts out into the Verde Island Passage,
and consequently some of the sites, especially those off Escarceo (or Lighthouse) Point can experience unpredictable sea conditions and strong currents, so diving with an experienced local guide is an absolute necessity.
Popular sites around Puerto Galera include West Escarceo, Hole in
the Wall, Shark Cave, Pink Wall and the Canyons, all of which are found
on Escarceo Point, jutting out into the channel. Advanced certification
is required for these dives. The sites are rich in marine life, with large
pelagics, such as tuna and a variety of rays, jacks and reef sharks. Turtles
are quite common here, and the Shark Cave (28m) usually has one or
more sleeping whitetip reef sharks inside it. The advent of mixed gas
Donsol, in southeast
Luzon, is one of the
few places in the world
where whale sharks are
regularly sighted.
Coral Reef Fishes: IndoPacific and Caribbean by

Ewald Lieske and Robert
Myers is a useful guide to
reef fish found in Philippine waters.
and rebreather diving, both of which are available in Puerto Galera, has
opened amazing new possibilities for dive profiles around the Escarceo
Point sites, making this area very popular with technical divers.
Less challenging sites include the Manila and Batangas Channels leading into the main harbour, and numerous coral gardens and drop-offs
such as Monkey Beach. A few wrecks can be dived, but the main attractions in this area are the corals and marine life.
Several kilometres to the east of Puerto Galera, Verde Island (p210) has
some notable dive sites too, the most impressive being the Verde Island
Wall. Reputedly one of the best wall dives in the Philippines, the almost
sheer drop-off is resplendent with corals and marine life.
you are likely to encounter sleeping whitetip sharks and banded sea
snakes. The wreck of the Doa Marilyn is home to nurse sharks and
blotched rays, and is a site that lends itself to photography for its red and
blue soft corals and variety of marine life.
Boracay (p325), in the northwestern part of the Visayas, is a popular
beach destination in its own right, and also has several notable dive sites.
The Yapak wall (p328) is an exciting, deep dive with visibility that can
exceed 200m, and huge pelagic action. Remember though, that you are
about as far away from a recompression chamber here as you could be
anywhere in the Philippines.
THE VISAYAS
Mindanao is the second-largest island in the Philippines, and, despite

being known for its religious and political unrest, is also home to some
excellent diving. On the south side, Davao (p387), particularly Samal
Island (p391), has been a popular dive destination for several decades;
the Ligid Caves remaining a highlight. Other sites around Samal include
Pinnacle Point, with its pink corals and a cracked wall down to 35m;
Pindawon Wall, a 40m-plus drop-off with some lively cabbage coral
colonies surrounded by spectacular table corals and clumps of black
coral; and the Malipano Japanese wrecks at around 40m. Although the
low current has restricted marine growth on the wrecks, this is a good
technical dive site. The two ships are lying 40m apart and can be visited
on one dive by an advanced scuba diver with appropriate training.
General Santos (or Gen San; p393) is home to a couple of dive centres
and an extremely impressive drop-off that stretches for over 10km along
the coastline. Tinoto Wall is characterised by an expansive, flat reeftop
with a profusion of coral gardens. The currents can be enormous, and
they bring with them a staggering array of huge pelagics, including mantas, several species of shark, barracuda, rainbow runners and tuna. Napoleon wrasse, grouper and bumphead parrot fish top the bill of the huge
cast of reef fish present, and the deeper you go, the bigger they get.
Off the central north coast of Mindanao, Camiguin Island (p378) bears
reminders of its volcanic origins and more recent tectonic events at dive
sites such as Agutaya Reef, in the shadow of the Hibok-Hibok volcano.
Jigdup Shoal is a sea mount that rises from the deep sea floor to the
surface, and is one of the best sites in the region. There is a fantastic parade of pelagic and reef fish to be observed on the sprawling 10-hectare
reef. For snorkellers, and divers looking for a less challenging site, Cabuan
Point is a delightful option with plenty of shallow areas where cuttlefish,
angelfish, tangs and parrotfish vie for attention.
The Sulu Islands (p403) that stretch away to the southwest of Mindanao do have some impressive diving, but due to the sensitive social and
political environment they are rarely visited by any but the most ardent
divers, and then usually only by those with military connections.
The Visayas is comprised of numerous islands, large and small, encompassing some of the countrys most exciting diving. Mactan Island (p242),
the gateway to Cebu, has a long drop-off running along its eastern coast.
The Marigondon Cave is an impressive cavern with a small cave at its rear
that is home to a school of flashlight fish, whose bio-luminescent eyes
flash in the dark at divers that stick their heads into the small opening.
Kon Tiki Reef is a well-preserved site just off the resort of the same name
(p244). The wall here is festooned with corals and there are plenty of
small reef fish to hold your attention.
On the island of Cebu, Moalboal (p255) is one of the oldest centres
of diving in the country. The diving off the beach involves a quite spectacular drop-off that starts just off Panagsama Beach. Adjacent Pescador
Island (p256) is most famous for its Spanish dancers; colourful large
nudibranchs. The Cathedral, a huge crevice that filters sunlight into brilliant shafts that dapple the interior down to 34m, is one of the islands
most impressive sights.
To the east of Cebu lies Bohol (p261), where Alona Beach on Panglao
Island (p265) at its southwestern tip is home to many dive operators
and resorts. Sites visited from here, and with dive safaris departing from
Cebu and other Visayan dive centres, include Cabilao Island (p269), most
famous for hammerhead sharks that prowl its deeper regions, tempting
divers to go beyond 40m. Dont. Theres plenty more to see around
Cabilao, including an outrageous coral reef at southwest Cabilao where
whitetip and grey sharks, rays, barracuda and other pelagics can be seen
along with Napoleon wrasse and many other species of reef fish.
Balicasag Island (p269), 45 minutes boat ride from Alona Beach, is
one of the best reef dives in the Visayas, which is really saying something.
Balicasags reefs are suitable for intermediate divers and experienced
snorkellers. Dive with an experienced guide, and you will see all manner
of amazing creatures, ranging from green turtles and bigeye trevally to all
sorts of pelagics. The hard and soft coral growth in this marine sanctuary
is very impressive. Along the northeast coast theres a site called Black
Forest, named for the massive clumps of black coral found here.
Alona Beach itself has several excellent sites, including Arco Point,
which bottoms out at 25m, and Kalipayan, a 20m drop-off.
To the west lies Apo Island (p281), a more remote destination with
its own dive centre on the island. Its a stunning site with large fish and
prolific corals almost everywhere.
To the north of Cebu lies Malapascua Island (p249), where a resident
shoal of rare thresher sharks patrols the adjacent Monad Shoal at depths
of around 40m. Other sites visited from Malapascua include Gato Island
(p250), a marine sanctuary with a cave that bisects the island, in which
MINDANAO & SULU
PALAWAN
The long finger of Palawan points to some great diving whichever way
you look at it. Coron Bay in the north, with its sunken Japanese WWII
fleet, is a must-see for wreck-diving enthusiasts. For more on wreck diving around Coron, see the boxed text on p430. Aside from wreck diving
there are some outstanding coral reefs that often get overlooked in all the
excitement, as well as a unique trek up a cliff face to dive in an inland
lake. Significant thermoclines (layers with distinct differences in water
temperature) and haloclines (layers of salt and fresh water) reward the
Some of the worlds

best wreck diving can
be found near Coron, in
Palawan.
Dive Right Corons

website at
www.coronwrecks.com
has detailed information about the wrecks
of Coron.

67
diver here, and while the marine life in the lake is fairly unspectacular,
the scenery above the water is magnificent.
The Bacuit Archipelago (p424) in northern Palawan has several outstanding dive sites. Typified by steep walls and exquisite coral gardens,
the diving around this sheltered bay is rewarding for its diversity and
colour. The most frequently visited site is probably Dilumacad, due to
its proximity to populated areas. For an impressive wall dive to 35m and
beyond, its hard to top Inambuyod Boulders, where the strong currents
attract large pelagics and encourage lush gorgonian fan corals. Miniloc
Island (p426) is a popular training site and features sheltered, year-round
diving. Look for a colony of blue ribbon eels here.
The capital of Palawan, Puerto Princesa (p410), has some great diving
nearby, notably in Honda Bay (p414) to the north. The bay is affected
by the amihan (northeast) winds from July to January, but throughout
the rest of the year, colourful sites such as Henrys Reef, Helens Reef,
Verano Rocks and East Pandan Reef, none of which are deeper than 18m,
offer great opportunities.
Puerto Princesa is the main jump-off point for live-aboards visiting
the three remote reef systems of Tubbataha, Jessie Beazley and Basterra.
Tubbataha, lying east of Palawan in the middle of the Sulu Sea, is a twinatoll reef system with stunning walls surrounding shallow reef systems.
Mantas and whale sharks, and the full gamut of pelagic marine life, are
the main attraction at all three of these Sulu Sea sites. While the weather
allows only a short diving season, it is also the areas best ally against the
depredations of commercial and illegal fishing that have ruined many
other remote reefs throughout the region. Tubbataha and its sister Sulu
Sea sites are ranked among the finest in the world, and represent the
pinnacle of diving excellence in the Philippines.
RESPONSIBLE DIVING
Please consider the following tips when diving and help preserve the ecology and beauty of
the reefs:
Never use anchors on the reef, and take care not to ground boats on coral.
Avoid touching or standing on living marine organisms or dragging equipment across the
reef. Polyps can be damaged by even the gentlest contact. If you must hold on to the reef,
only touch exposed rock or dead coral.
Be conscious of your fins. Even without contact, the surge from fin strokes near the reef can
damage delicate organisms. Take care not to kick up clouds of sand, which can smother
organisms.
Practise and maintain proper buoyancy control. Major damage can be done by divers descending too fast and colliding with the reef.
Take great care in underwater caves. Spend as little time in them as possible as your air bubbles may be caught within the roof and thereby leave organisms high and dry. Take turns to
inspect the interior of a small cave.
Resist the temptation to collect or buy corals or shells or to loot marine archaeological sites
(mainly shipwrecks).
Ensure that you take your rubbish and any other litter you may find away from dive sites.
Plastics in particular are a serious threat to marine life.
Do not feed fish.
Minimise your disturbance of marine animals. Never ride on the backs of turtles.
68
69
MANILA
Manila
Its a pity that Manila is often disparaged, as theres much here to like. For one, all the adjectives
often used to describe the Philippines jovial, laid back, casual, corrupt, shambolic, earnest and
more are on display here more than anywhere else in the country. Its a truly teeming metropolis
that gets bigger each day, both in population, with people pouring in from the hinterlands,
and size, as new developments in all directions swallow up villages and rice fields.
Manila can be a very discombobulated place, for it is really just a collection of towns with
no definable centre. The walled Intramuros area was the traditional centre of Manila, but was
mostly wiped out in WWII and has never recovered. Binondo, Quiapo, Ermita and Malate have
never been more than a supporting cast for a star that doesnt exist. Still, you may well find lots
of fun in Ermita and Malate, while Binondo and Quiapo have a certain raw energy and unique
markets. And Intramuros is a good place to explore, just to find the bones of its past.
Other parts of town are more lively. At the centre of modern Manila is Makati, the commercial centre for the country. Here, in almost orderly surroundings, you can shop, eat and
drink to your hearts content. It transcends the generic-mall syndrome by having its own
unique vibe that comes from the hordes of locals who come here to work, relax and play.
As many will tell you, this is the Manila we wish we had.
Rather than seeing Manila as an amorphous mass, focus instead on enjoying its individual
areas, and you will start to get a feel for the greater Manila, which really is a sum of its parts.
HIGHLIGHTS
Hearing echoes of a lost past in
Intramuros (p75)
Prowling the markets and backstreets of
Quiapo (p79) and Chinatown (p79)
Revelling in the Imelda excess at the
Coconut Palace (p83)
Learning about a Manila you didnt know
existed on a walking tour (p88)
Bouncing between the bars and clubs of
Malate (p104)
Quiapo & Chinatown

Intramuros
Malate
Coconut
Palace
Going on a spending spree in Makati

(p108)
Getting lost three times while careening
about the streets in a jeepney (p114)
TELEPHONE CODE: 02
POPULATION: 11 MILLION
Makati
HISTORY
ORIENTATION
Under Spanish rule, Manila was known

as The Pearl of the Orient, the jewel of
Spains empire in the Pacific. Early tourists,
like the 19th-century traveller Fedor Jagor,
described it as a splendid, fortified city of
wide, cobbled streets and regal townhouses.
Sadly, little remains of that splendid city
today.
Manila was colonised by the Spaniard
Miguel Lopez de Legazpi in 1571. Its broad
sweep of fertile lands made it more attractive than Cebu, which had been the capital. King Philip II of Spain conferred on
the city the illustrious title Isigne y Siempre Leal Ciudad (Distinguished and Ever
Loyal City), but the city continued to be
called by its pre-Hispanic name of Maynilad (presumed to be from may, meaning
there is, and nilad, a mangrove plant that
grew in abundance on the banks of the
Pasig River), which was later corrupted to
Manila.
From the late 19th century onwards,
Manila was actually something approaching a Paris of Asia. It was a thriving trading centre, its multicultural mix providing
a good entry point into China and other
emerging lands. In 1905, Daniel Burnham,
the master planner of Chicago, was hired
to produce a master plan for the city. His
grand vision included Roxas Blvd, which
even today, under its somewhat shabby
patina, echoes Lake Shore Dr in Chicago.
Intramuros and the surrounding districts
were busy with business and entertainment and the streets were lined with grand
structures, many reflecting the best of Art
Deco design.
WWII changed everything. Many claim
the city has never recovered. The monthlong Battle for Manila between the Japanese
and the Americans resulted in the towns
destruction, with over 150,000 locals killed
(by comparison, the atomic attack on Hiroshima killed upwards of 140,000).
Rebuilding was sporadic, and the city
was never able to reclaim either its regional
importance or its sense of self. Present-day
Metro Manila is a conglomeration of 17
cities and municipalities unified by Marcos
decree in 1976. Many locals complain about
the scattered character of Manila; its true
that the various districts feel disunified and
there is no sense of a whole.
At the core of this vast urban sprawl is the

City of Manila, which is formed by the districts of Intramuros, Ermita, Malate, Paco,
San Miguel, Quiapo, Santa Cruz, Binondo,
San Nicolas and Tondo, spread around the
mouth of the Pasig River as it spills into
Manila Bay.
Around this core are the other cities and
municipalities. East of Pasay lie centres such
as Makati, which is the centre of booming
commerce and nightlife. Other areas include
Pasig, Mandaluyong and the municipality
of San Juan. In the north, Caloocan (also
spelled Kalookan) and the Cubao district
of Quezon City are important departure
points for north-bound buses, while the
terminals for many south-bound buses are
south of the centre in Baclaran, Pasay. The
Manila Domestic Airport is in Pasay, but
the Ninoy Aquino International Airport
(NAIA) and Centennial Terminal (NAIA
II) are located further south in Paraaque
(pa-ran-ya-ke).
Fringing the centre are exclusive neighbourhoods, such as Forbes Park and BelAir, where Manilas wealthy citizens live in
secluded luxury, guarded by their own security forces. In stark contrast, the coastline
north of the Pasig River is home to sprawling shantytowns, the most infamous being
Tondo, where some 200,000 people are
crammed into an area of only 1.5 sq km. Successive governments have tried to improve
living conditions and demolish the shantytowns, but the population of slum-dwellers
continues to hover at around 1.5 million.
The tourist belt formed by Ermita and
Malate is the traditional base for tourists in
Manila. Much of the budget and midrange
accommodation is found here, as well as
many good restaurants and nightspots. The
area here of greatest interest to tourists is
bound by Roxas Blvd, P Ocampo Sr St (Vito
Cruz St), Taft Ave and the Pasig River. However, glitzy Makati to the east is fast emerging as the destination of choice for locals
and travellers alike. Business travellers often
end up in Ortigas Center, the second-largest
area for commerce after Makati. Out on the
Epifanio de los Santos Ave (the EDSA ring
road) theres a vast collection of malls and
office buildings.
The historic areas of Rizal Park and Intramuros are just north of Ermita and Malate.
MA N I L A I n f o r m a t i o n 71
MANILA
MANILA
70 MA N I L A H i s t o r y
MANILA IN
Two Days
Wander historic Intramuros (p75) and Rizal Park (p78), then take in some of the nightlife of
Malate (p104). On your second day, enjoy the contrasts between Chinatown (p79) commerce in
the morning and the thriving shopping mecca of Makati (p108) in the afternoon. Stay in Makati
for the evening and try to choose between the dozens of great places to eat and drink.
Four Days
Follow the two-day itinerary, but on your third day, explore the camp and classic Cultural
Center of the Philippines (p82), then take an entertaining walking tour (p88) around a city
neighbourhood. Have a drink near Remedios Circle (p103) and spend the night finding little
bars and cafs on the side streets of Ermita and Malate (p102). On your fourth day, return to
Makati for the intriguing Ayala Museum (p85) and then feast at one of the many friendly spots
in Quezon City (p102).
The old trading neighbourhoods of Binondo,

Santa Cruz and Quiapo north of the Pasig
River are home to numerous old markets
and Chinatown.
With all the heat, noise, traffic and smog,
getting around Manila can be quite an ordeal. The two Light Rail Transit (LRT) lines
and the Metro Rail Transit (MRT; see p115)
can provide efficient ways to get around,
but there are large areas with no service.
To add to the general confusion, many
streets are known by two, or even three,
names. Rizal Ave, the main road from Santa
Cruz to Monumento, is usually referred
to as Avenida; A Arnaiz Ave in Makati is
also called Pasay Rd, its former name; P
Ocampo Sr St is alternately known as Vito
Cruz St; and Sen Gil Puyat Ave is often referred to as Buendia Ave or simply Buendia.
To make matters worse, street numbers are
often unmarked. Instead, an address is usually specified as an intersection, eg corner
Pedro Gil and A Mabini Sts.
Maps
E-Z Maps, published by United Tourist
Promotions, cover Manila, Makati, Quezon
City and other areas in fine detail. They are
kept up to date, have good indexes and are
sold widely for P100. Nelles Verlag publishes a Manila map (1:17,500 scale) that
shows important buildings in the metropolitan area. Periplus also publishes a goodlooking Manila map (1:17,500 scale). The
latter two are sold outside the Philippines.
If you can wait, buy an E-Z Map after you
arrive.
INFORMATION
Bookshops
There are numerous bookshops in Manila.

Many sell more stationery than printed
words, but you wont have a hard time finding a good one.
Bibliarch (Map pp86-7; %752 7107; ground level,
Glorietta 3, Ayala Center, Makati) Selection focused on art
and architecture; wide array of foreign magazines.
Datelines Bookstore (Map p88; %0920 901 0013;
Marikina Shoe Expo, Gen Romulo Ave, Cubao) Small but
carefully chosen collection of used Western and Filipino
books.
Filipinas Heritage Library Bookstore (Map pp86-7;
Ayala Triangle Park, Makati Ave, Makati; h9am-4.30pm
Tue-Sat) This small bookstore is one of the best places to
go for books on all aspects of the Philippines.
National Book Store (Map pp86-7; %812 3950;
ground level, Greenbelt 1, Ayala Center, Makati) Books,
magazines and lots of stationery products. Excellent copying services. Branches all over the city.
Popular Book Store (Map p88; %372 2162; 305 T
Morato Ave, Quezon City) This eclectic shop sells new and
used books. Titles range from Suzanne Somers Get Skinny
to Freemasonry and Its Etiquette to numerous academic
tomes on Filipino culture.
Power Books (Map pp86-7; %757 6428; level 2,
Greenbelt 4, Ayala Center, Makati) Poshest bookstore in
town, with a huge selection and a little caf with tables
outside overlooking the park. Theres another location
nearby inside Tower Records, also at Ayala Center (level 2,
Glorietta 3).
Solidaridad Bookshop (Map p90; 531 P Faura St,
Ermita) Owned by the award-winning Filipino author
Francisco Sionil Jose, it is well stocked with books on topics
from history to existentialism. Among the titles on offer are
the owners own collections of short stories and essays.
E4
E5
F4
E5
F4
F4
TRANSPORT
Baliwag Transit Bus Terminal........16 C2
Farias Transit Company Bus
Terminal.................................. 17 C3
Lufthansa Airlines.......................(see 11)
Philippine Rabbit Bus Terminal......18 D1
Victory Liner Bus Terminal............19 C1
SHOPPING
Greenhills Shopping Center..........10
Power Plant Mall..........................11
Robinsons Galleria........................12
Shangri-La Plaza Mall...................13
SM Megamall...............................14
The Podium..................................15
ENTERTAINMENT
Embassy.........................................9 E6
William J Shaw Theater..............(see 13)
DRINKING
70's Bar..........................................7 F3
Conspiracy......................................8 E1
EATING
Cafe Via Mare............................(see 11)
Gourmand...................................(see 9)
Rastro........................................(see 11)
SLEEPING
Edsa Shangri-La Hotel.....................5 F5
Legend Hotel..................................6 F5
Grace
Park
Abad
Santos
16
17
Taft
Blvd
Sr
Manila
Domestic
Terminal
Magallanes
Village
Magallanes
A Arnaiz
Ave
Paraaque
Ninoy Aquino
International
Airport (NAIA)
Centennial
Terminal
(NAIA II)
ala
18
Quezon
Avenue
11
Buendia
Forbes Park
South
13
Riv
12
Exchange Rd
Carlos P
Garcia
Ave
American Memorial
Cemetery
Project 4
Quirino
Av
Laguna
de Bay
Pateros
Pasig
Doa Julia Vargas Ave
2 km
1 mile
MANILA
Ortigas Center
Ortigas Ave
Ortigas
Santolan
14 15 1
The Fort
Guadalupe
Guadalupe
er
Madison
St
Pasig
Boni
Shaw
Statue of Our
Lady of EDSA
Epifanio de los
Santos Ave (EDSA)
Cubao-Araneta
Center
Cubao
Taguig
To Muntinlupa
(20km); Calamba
(50km); Lucena
(120km)
Merville Park
Av
los
9
de ve Forbes Park
North
nio A
ifa tos A)
Ep San EDS
Manila
Golf
(
McKinley R
Club
Ayala
d
Makati
Rockwell Center
10
ga
Or
ti
lvd
Wack-Wack Golf &

Country Club
See Makati Avenue &

P Burgos Street Map (p93)
Diliman
alt
e
nw
Co
University Ave
Quezon Memorial
Circle
GMA Kamuning
Greenhills
ora
Aur
New Manila
Ave
Ave
Mandaluyong
Blv
Timog
Dasmarias
Village
Av
Ave)
Ay
ndia
(Bue
See Makati
Map (pp86-7)
Ave
os
der
Sha
Quezon
City
North Avenue
North
Project 6
San Juan
ana
P
ew
Bel-Air
Blvd
San Francisco
del Monte
Project 7
Muoz
See Paraaque & Pasay Map (p84)
Airport Rd
Baclaran
EDSA
Pasay City
San Roque
L
Libertad
d St
iberta
Gil Puyat
Sen
uya
Gil P
Vito Cruz St
Project 8
See Quezon City & Cubao Map (p88)
Santa Ana
San Andres
Pedro Gil St
Paco
San Isidro
La Huerta
To Las Pias
(20km)
R Magsaysay
lo S
tipo
An
Av
18
ez
E Rodrigu
on
z
ue
Santa Mesa
Heights
Pandacan
Vito Cruz
Baclaran
(South Terminal)
vd
Bl
na
p Sampaloc
s
E
Quirino
Avenue
Malate
Pedro
Gil
CCP
North Luzon Expwy
See Binondo, Santa Cruz &

Quiapo Map (p82)
ed
ve
Unittions A
Ermita
a
United Nations N
Paco
Avenue
Rizal
Park
Intramuros
Central
Balintawak
To Angeles City
(60km); Baguio
(230km)
o
rin
ui
te Ave
Del Mon
Doroteo Jos City

Chinatown
CM
of Manila
Rec
Binondo
to A
Carriedo ve
See
lta St
Intra Esco
Map muros
Quiapo
(p76
San Miguel
)
Santa
Cruz
Tayuman
Bambang
tt
tri
en
Blu
Blumentritt
Av
Chinese
Cemetery
ra
ro
Au
R Papa
5th Avenue
5th Ave
Ave
See Rizal Park, Ermita, Malate

& Paco Map (pp80-1)
Pier 15
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

Malacaang Palace........................ 3 C4
Museo Ng Makati..........................4 E5
Museo ng Malacaang................(see 3)
INFORMATION
British Council.................................1 F4
University of the Philippines Manila..2 F1
Manila Bay
Tondo
Tayuman
Station
South
Port
District
North
Port
District
Pier 5
Pier 9
Pier 13
Pier 3
Pier 6
Pier 4
Pier 2
Pier 10
Pier 8
Pier 16
Pier 14
Pier 12
South Harbor
North Harbor
C-3 Rd
Caloocan
City
Bonifacio
Monument
Monumento
(North Terminal)
Extn
19
al
0
0
St
Luna
Juan
MacArthur Hwy
Malabon
St
rd
ga
Le
s St
Santo
Abad
Jos
Riz
Ave
Rizal
io
vd
Roxas Bl
Ave
West
METRO MANILA
St
y(
ald
Ave
East
St
ifac
Bon
St
ta
pi
on
Harris
Ave
y)
uin
Dr
JB
Taft
Hw
Ag
or
o
ri
aci
ui
nif
St
Pre
Hw
Rd)
on
Bo
bin
Ma
Chino
Roces
er
Sup
stal
H
G
St
me
th
Sou
lvd
(Coa
bes
For
lv
ez B
Av
Lop
rno
e
ov
no
io
at
Da
t
ini S
St
i A
ve
Mab
St
kat
yon
Ma
Ma
s
sO
Quirino Ave
uez
St
drig
o
J R
St
er
oa
ne
ve
Pio
lA
Ave
ho
lco
Bo
era
er
Av
Riv
yas
M
Metro Manila
MANILA
Visa
Marikina
72 MA N I L A M e t r o M a n i l a
MA N I L A M e t r o M a n i l a 73
Metro Manila
Tradewinds Books (Map p76; %527 2111; 3rd fl,

Silahis Arts & Artifacts Center, 744 General Luna St, Intramuros) Varied assortment of books on the Philippines and
Asia, including out-of-print or hard-to-find volumes.
Cultural Centres
Several countries have cultural centres in
Manila. Most have their own libraries and
stage regular cultural events, such as film
screenings.
Alliance Franaise (Map pp86-7; %895 7585; 209
Nicanor Garcia St, Bel-Air II, Makati)
British Council (Map pp72-3; %914 1011/14; 10th fl,
Taipan Pl, Emerald Ave, Ortigas Center, Pasig City)
Goethe Institut Manila (Map p88; %722 4671; 687
Aurora Blvd, Quezon City)
Fabulous Laundry (Map p90; %522 8438; 1647-D M

Adriatico St; h7am-9pm Mon-Sat, 9am-5pm Sun).
Of course you can avoid carting your
dirty laundry through the streets of Manila by having your hotel do your washing.
Many places charge very little for this or
include it in the room fee.
Libraries
Several libraries in Manila are open to the
public.
Filipinas Heritage Library (Map pp86-7; %892 1801;
524 1728) Can steer you to the closest police station and
offer advice.
Ayala Triangle Park, Makati Ave, Makati; admission to

collections P80; h9am-4.30pm Tue-Sat) Contains good
resources on Filipino history, art and culture, and is also the
repository of thousands of images related to the Philippines. Good displays of artistic and historical photos (free);
excellent bookstore.
National Library (Map pp80-1; %524 0498; TM Kalaw
St, Ermita; admission free with P50 lifetime membership;
h9am-4.30pm Mon-Sat) Open to locals and foreigners
alike.
Internet Access
Media
Internet places are common along the streets

and in the malls throughout town. Rates are
cheap, often less than P60 per hour. Some
places offer free wi-fi; also look for cafs in
our listings that have the Internet icon i,
especially in Makati. If you need ser vices
beyond just browsing, NeoComputer.Net (Map
Manila has more than a dozen daily newspapers. Quality varies sharply and even the
best have lapses wherein advertisers come
in for astonishing amounts of praise. The
two that are generally regarded as the best
in town are the Manila Times (www.manila
times.net) and the Philippine Daily Inquirer
(www.inq7.net).
The local radio stations reflect the national tastes in music. You havent lived
until youve listened to a broadcast of karaoke versions of the Carpenters, or Charlenes Ive Never Been To Me. Among the
plethora of stations:
DWBR (104.3 FM) The Philippines Broadcasting Service,
Emergency
Police, medical & fire (%117)
Tourist Police Assistance Hotline (%524 1660,
pp86-7; %840 3886; level 3, Glorietta 2, Ayala Center,

Makati) has printing, disk-burning and other
computing services.
Internet Resources
Click the City (www.clickthecity.com) Manilas online
directory of businesses is getting better all the time. Vast
listings of telephone numbers and addresses that are
mostly up to date as well as web links where available.
Search by name, category, location or any combination of
the three.
Laundry
Though do-it-yourself laundromats are
quite a rarity, there are plenty of places
offering cheap laundry services throughout Manila. Walk around the area where
youre staying and you will soon find a
glass-fronted shop with rows of washing
machines inside.
It usually costs from P30 to P50 per
1kg of washing. Two places in Ermita are
Sea Breeze Laundry (Map p90; %525 4971; 1317 M
Adriatico St; h8am-8pm Mon-Sat, 8am-5pm Sun) and
MA N I L A D a n g e r s & A n n o y a n c e s 75
Manila Doctors Hospital (Map pp80-1; %524 3011;

667 United Nations Ave, Ermita)
Manila Medical Center (Map pp80-1; %523 8131;
1122 General Luna St, Ermita)
Rajah Travel (Map pp80-1; %523 8801; ground fl,

Plywood Industries Bldg, cnr A Mabini St & T M Kalaw St,
Ermita) Can help with most requirements, albeit gruffly.
Money
The vast campus of the University of the

Philippines Manila is located near Quezon
City (see p85).
For general information on changing

money in the Philippines, see p442.
Most banks in Manila have ATMs and
these are usually your safest and most hasslefree way to get local currency. You can also
change foreign cash and travellers cheques
at most banks.
American Express (Map p90; %524 8681; 1810 A
Mabini St, Malate; h8.30am-4pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat)
has affiliate offices in Manila and can offer

exchange and replacement services to cardholders and travellers-cheques holders.
Malate and Ermita are peppered with
moneychangers, and there are places all
over the city where you can change foreign
currency into Philippine pesos, but you
should always be very careful with these
services. See p442 for warnings.
Post
Satellite post offices operate at both the domestic and international airports. There are
also post offices throughout the city.
Makati Central Post Office (Map pp86-7; %844
0150; Sen Gil Puyat Ave, Makati; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri)
Near the corner of Ayala Extension.
Manila Central Post Office (Map p76; %527 8561;
btwn Jones & MacArthur Bridges, Intramuros; h8amnoon & 1-5pm Mon-Fri, 8am-noon Sat) A landmark, offers
full services.
Universities
DANGERS & ANNOYANCES

With a total population of close to 11 million people, Manila has earned a reputation for being overcrowded. Traffic, crime,
noise and air pollution are also major annoyances, though the last plays a critical
role in producing Manila Bays legendary
sunsets.
As in any big city, crime is a part of life in
Manila, with foreigners seen as easy prey by
pickpockets and petty criminals. As much
as possible, avoid walking around on your
own at night and in deserted places.
SIGHTS
Manila has much to see, and it takes a while
to see everything as sights are scattered
about this large city. But as you explore,
youll get an appreciation for a city that
has been at the pinnacle of Asia and almost at the nadir as well. And youll get a
feel for the soup of cultural influences that
combine to make Manila the free-wheeling
metropolis it is today. Much of whats best
to see isnt always at a traditional sight, but
rather can be found in the life of the varied
neighbourhoods.
Tourist Information
Intramuros
DOT Information Center (Department of Tourism; Map
When Miguel Lopez de Legazpi wrested

control of Manila, he chose to erect his
fortress on the remnants of the Islamic
settlement by the mouth of the Pasig River.
Intramuros, as Legazpis walled city came to
be called, was invaded by Chinese pirates,
threatened by Dutch forces, and held by the
British, Americans and Japanese at various
times, yet it survived until the closing days
of WWII, when it was finally destroyed by
US bombing during the Battle of Manila.
From its founding in 1571, Intramuros
was the exclusive preserve of the Spanish
ruling classes. Within its massive walls were
imposing government buildings, stately
homes, churches, convents, monasteries,
schools, hospitals and cobbled plazas.
with news read with great portent, and music so old and
mellow youll be itching to push a button in an elevator or
slacken your jaw for drilling.
DWLS (97.1 FM) College rock.
DZRJ (100.3) FM All-Elvis weekends; regular live jams of
oldies.
pp80-1; %524 2384, hotlines 525 2000, 526 2257; Room

106, DOT Bldg, Rizal Park; h8am-6pm) Surrounded
by SUVs and other expensive official vehicles, DOT offers
relatively few services. Its best to go to the information
desk with specific questions, but even then its hit or miss:
some staff are rude, others work tirelessly to help.
Medical Services
Travel Agencies
A charity hospital, the government-funded

Philippine General Hospital (Map pp80-1; %521
8450; Taft Ave, Ermita) tends to be overcrowded
but it does offer full service.
Reliable private medical services are provided by the following large centres:
Makati Medical Center (Map pp86-7; %815 9911;
There are travel agencies everywhere in Ermita, Malate and Makati, and most handle
travel reservations as well as guided tours.
You wont save any money by booking
through these places, but they can facilitate
things like getting a visa extension.
Happy Travel (Map p90; %524 1861; 1453 A Mabini
2Amorsolo St, Makati)
St, Ermita) Full-service travel agent.
MANILA
MANILA
74 MA N I L A I n f o r m a t i o n
76 MA N I L A S i g h t s
MA N I L A S i g h t s 77
0
0
INTRAMUROS
A
300 m
0.2 miles
INFORMATION
Bureau of Immigration................1 C1
Department of Labour &
Employment (DOLE)................2 D3
Intramuros Visitors Center...........3 B2
Manila Central Post Office..........4 C1
Tradewinds Books..................(see 24)
To
MacArthur
Bridge
(100m)
Jones
Bridge
la Industria
Muelle de
ell
Mu
1
gall
Ma
14
Dr
nes
A Villeg
iver
Pasig R
Rio
el
ed
29
Baluarte de San Gabriel
as
Puerta
Isabel II
a 21
12
St
An
al
St
Baluarte de San
Francisco de Dilao
ta
nc
te
St
19
St
20 se
o
nJ
Sa
2
St
St
th
St
th
14
th
15
St
16
th
St
th
St
th
St
Baluarte de
San Diego
r
D
20
Club Intramuros
Golf Course
Puerta
Real
St
Reducto de
San Pedro
cio
fa
ni
Bo
19
cio
18
Baluarte de
San Andres
aS
ll
ra
Pala
17
St
St
th
St
Lu
cia
oa
Club Intramuros
Golf Course
St
St
St
th
rd
The native populace was settled in surrounding areas such as Paco and Binondo,
while the troublesome Chinese were kept
under permanent supervision in a ghetto
called the Parian.
Fortified with bastions (baluarte), the
wall enclosed an area of some 64 hectares.
Gates (puerta) with drawbridges provided
access to and from the outside world.
At its height, Intramuros instilled fear
in Spains enemies as a mighty European
city, the only one of its kind in Asia. By the
end of WWII, the walls here were almost
all that remained of the once-proud city,
and 150,000 Filipino civilians had perished
in the crossfire. Check out the simple but
moving open-air Memorare Manila (Map p76;
24
23
21
st
St
os
th
25
St
St
rg
10
nd
St
22
Manila
Bay
ilr
Bo
sto
n
go
os
co
sc
St
St
24
Ba
nt
Ra
ica
Revellin de
Recoletos
let
18
Sa
St
ria
25
St
Puerta de
Santa Lucia
Ch
27
cto
po
St
St
th
13
th
12
Re
St
th
bis
Intramuros
St
Baluarte de
Santa Lucia
lan
11
At
zo
22
13
Lu
na
Vi
10
Ar
Anda Circle
South Port District
ral
Po
Puerta del
Postigo
th
9t
St
ne
Sa
St nta
Ge
St
8t
ian
Re
St
go
sti
Po
da
rio
ate
St
ua
ra
Cla
nta
Sa
St
r
D
St
Club Intramuros
Golf Course
St
i S
t
St
St
16
sp
cio
fa
ni
Bo
Ca
bil
11 do
ga
all
Plaza de
Roma
Reducto de
San Francisco
Le
St
os
St
Ad
urg
lan
M
ag
all
an
es
ur
Puerta del
Parian
26
PB
So
Central
Revellin del Parian
28
St
ll
Mura
St
Fort
Santiago
Park
Be
23
Fort
Santiago
na
17
15
Bu
Rizal
Park
cnr General Luna St & Anda St) which shows before-
and-after photos of the battles.

Despite the devastation, one can still
feel a strong sense of history on a visit to
Intramuros. Most of the walls, gates and
bulwarks are accessible, although they
are weedy and a bit seedy. It is possible
to walk on the 4.5km-long rampart. Start
your walking tour by dropping into the
Intramuros Visitors Center (Map p76; %527 2961;
h8am-noon, 1-6pm) at the entrance to Fort
Santiago (see opposite). A tour is best done
during the day as some sections of the walls
are closed or inadequately lit at night. Anda
St inside the walls is a good street for a
wander; many of the buildings still have
Spanish-tile street names.
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

Arroceros Forest Park..................5
Ayuntamiento.............................6
Bahay Tsinoy..............................7
Casa Manila................................ 8
Club Intramuros Golf Course...... 9
Legazpi Statue...........................10
D1
B2
C2
C3
A2
C4
Manila Cathedral......................11 B2
Manila City Hall........................ 12 D2
Memorare Manila..................... 13 C3
Metropolitan Theater................14 D1
Ninoy Aquino Statue................ 15 D4
Palacio del Gobernador.............16 B2
Rizal Shrine...............................17 A2
San Agustin Church.................. 18 C3
San Agustin Museum..............(see 18)
EATING
Barbaras...................................19
Ilustrado................................... 20
Ledan's Cafe.............................21
Open-Air Barbecue Places.........22
The area outside the moat is now a popular golf course (see p87). Beautifully illuminated at night, the clock tower of the
Manila City Hall (Map p76; P Burgos St) is visible to
the east. Further north, fronting the classic
Manila Central Post Office (p75), one of
the few survivors of Burnhams plan (see
p70), stands the Metropolitan Theater (Map p76;
Quezon Blvd). Its now in a state of disrepair
but is still a stunning piece of Art Deco
architecture.
SAN AGUSTIN CHURCH & SAN AGUSTIN
MUSEUM
The San Agustin Church (Map p76; %527 4060;

General Luna St; h7am-5pm) was the only build-
ing left intact after the destruction of Intramuros. Built between 1587 and 1606, it is the
oldest church in the Philippines. The present
structure is actually the third to stand on the
site, and has weathered seven major earthquakes, as well as the Battle of Manila. Its
an active church and much in demand for
weddings and other ceremonies.
The massive faade conceals an ornate
interior filled with objects of great historical
and cultural merit. Note the intricate trompe
loeil frescoes on the vaulted ceiling. Be sure
to check out the tropical cloisters as well as
the slightly shabby gardens out back.
The San Agustin Museum (Map p76; %527 4060;
adult/child P65/45; h9am-noon & 1-6pm) is a treasure house of antiquities that give the visitor
tantalising glimpses of the fabled riches of
old Manila. Look for the vaguely Chineselooking Immaculate Conception statue in
ethereal ivory.
FORT SANTIAGO
Guarding the vital entrance to the Pasig

River, Fort Santiago (Map p76; %527 2961; Santa
Clara St; adult/child P40/15; h8am-6pm) was once
C3
D3
C2
B3
ENTERTAINMENT
Dulaang Rajah Sulayman..........23 A2
SHOPPING
Silahis Arts & Artifacts Center... 24 C3
Vacoop..................................... 25 C3
TRANSPORT
Alps Transit Bus Terminal.......... 26
Buses, Jeepneys & FX to Makati
& Pasay City..........................27
Jeepneys & FX to Quiapo &
Santa Cruz............................28
Saulog Transit Bus
Terminal...............................29
D2
D2
D2
C1
the seat of Spanish military power. Designated a Shrine of Freedom in 1950, today
it is a memorial to Dr Jos Rizal, who was
imprisoned here in the final days before his
execution in 1896 for inciting revolution
against the Spanish colonials. It is also a
memorial to all Filipinos who have fought
or died for the cause of freedom.
The Rizal Shrine (Map p76; admission free; h8am5pm), in the building where Rizal was incarcerated, contains various displays of Rizal
memorabilia, including a reliquary containing one of his vertebrae, the first draft of his
novel Noli Me Tangere (Touch Me Not) and
the original copy of Mi Ultimo Adios (My
Last Farewell), which was smuggled out of
his cell inside an oil lamp.
At the far end of the fort you will find
the infamous dungeon where prisoners
were drowned in water seeping through
the walls. The dungeon remains closed to
visitors. A Spanish military barracks has
been turned into an open-air theatre called
Dulaang Rajah Sulayman (p105). Rizal
spent his last night in a cellblock at one
end of these barracks. Brass footprints set
into the pavement mark his final steps to
the execution spot in Rizal Park. For more
information on Rizal see p26.
MANILA CATHEDRAL
The Manila Cathedral (Map p76; %527 5836; cnr

Postigo St & General Luna St; h8am-noon & 3-6pm) was
destroyed in WWII, but the present edifice, erected in 1951, looks suitably ancient
with its weathered Romanesque faade and
graceful cupola. This is actually the sixth
church on the site. Inside are a gilded altar,
a 4500-pipe organ and rosette windows
with beautiful stained glass.
The cathedral fronts Plaza de Roma, which
was a bloody bullring until it was converted
MANILA
MANILA
Intramuros
A PARK LOST
The Arroceros Forest Park (Map p76) was
an unexpected pocket of untamed nature in
the middle of the concrete jungle. At least
it was until 2005, when the local government closed the gates and started digging
up the stands of mature trees (rarities in
central Manila). Activists were caught napping, and then it was too late; deals had
been cut and the park, which was created
with much fanfare in 1993, is now on the
way to being replaced with an unspecified
development.
into a plaza. To one side lie the forlorn ruins

of the Ayuntamiento, once the grandest building in all of Intramuros. Palacio del Gobernador,
on the other side of the square, is a modern
structure that houses the Intramuros Administration, custodians of the historic site.
CASA MANILA
Casa Manila (Map p76; %527 4084; Plaza Luis Complex, General Luna St; adult/child P40/15; h9am-noon
& 1-6pm Tue-Sun) is another of Imelda Marcos
projects. Its a mostly faithfully restored

Spanish colonial home (the ceilings were
made much higher as Imelda is a wellabove-average 178cm) that offers a window
into the opulent lifestyle of the gentry in
the 19th century. The three-storey house is
furnished with antiques from the period.
BAHAY TSINOY
The Bahay Tsinoy (Map p76; %527 6083; Kaisa

Angelo Heritage Center, cnr Anda St & Cabildo St; adult/
student P100/60; h1-5pm Tue-Sun) features threedimensional dioramas and a vast collection of photos that shows the role played
by the Chinese in the growth of Manila.
Present-day Chinese-Filipinos call themselves Chinoys or Tsinoys, hence the museums name.
Rizal Park
Still widely known as Luneta (its name
until it was officially changed in the 1950s),
Rizal Park (Map pp801) is spread out over
some 60 hectares of open lawns, ornamental gardens, paved walks and wooded areas,
dotted with monuments to almost every
Filipino hero you care to mention. Its a
pretty area but also shabby in parts, danger-
ously so near the closed National Museum

on P Burgos St.
Every day hundreds of Filipinos come
here to stroll, jog, picnic, sing and play
music, or just relax away from the swarming traffic. At dawn, various groups gather
to practise tai chi or the local martial art of
arnis, or arnis de mano, a pre-Hispanic style
of stick-fighting. There are formalised displays of martial arts on Sunday afternoon.
The long-running Concert at the Park also
takes place at the Open Air Auditorium (admission
free); it starts at around 6pm on Sundays.
The park is dedicated to the Philippine
national hero, Dr Jos Rizal, who was executed here by the Spanish colonial authorities on 30 December 1896 for inciting
revolution. The Rizal Monument, guarded by
sentries in full regalia, contains the heros
mortal remains and stands as a symbol
of Filipino nationhood (visiting heads of
state customarily lay a wreath here). Across
Roxas Blvd, directly in front of the Rizal
Monument, the 0km Post marks the spot
from where distances in the Philippines
are measured (secular-minded Americans
moved it here from Manila Cathedral).
To one side of the monument you will
find the Site of Rizals Execution (admission P10;
h 8am-5pm Wed-Sun); at the entrance is a
black granite wall inscribed with Rizals
Mi Ultimo Adios (My Last Farewell). Eight
tableaux of life-size bronze statues recreate
the dramatic last moments of the heros
life; at night these statues become part of
a light-and-sound presentation entitled the
Martyrdom of Dr Jos Rizal (admission P50; hin
Filipino 7pm & in English 8pm, Wed-Sun).
At the western end of the park is the Quirino Grandstand, where Philippine presidents
take their oath of office and deliver their
first address to the nation. At the opposite
end youll find the Relief Map of the Philippines,
which shows the entire Philippine archipelago in miniature (its best appreciated from
the elevated LRT1 line). The centre is dominated by the Central Lagoon and Fountains.
Along one side are three ornamental gardens the whimsical Chinese Garden (admission
P5), the austere Japanese Garden (admission P5)
and the tropical Manila Orchidarium (adult/child
P100/60; h8am-5pm Tue-Sun). The Chess Plaza is
a shady spot where regulars test each other
and look for new blood with shouts to visitors of Hey Joe, do you play chess?
In the northwest of the park, the Planetarium (%527 7889; P Burgos St; adult/child P50/30;
h8am-4.30pm Tue-Sat) stages projections of the
stars.
Near the waterfront seafood restaurants
to the west (see p96), the forlorn Museo ng
Maynila (South Blvd) is in the Old Army & Navy
Club, a once-posh US officers retreat. Sadly
the mansion has been condemned, and the
collection housed inside, which traces the
history of Manila, has been closed. But as
always in Manila, hope springs eternal and
there are plans to someday reopen. Stop by
and offer a few words of encouragement to
the staff who remain on duty.
The Museo Pambata (%523 1797; cnr Roxas Blvd &
South Blvd; adult/child P60/40; h9am-5pm Tue-Sat, 1-5pm
Sun) explores Manila through the eyes of kids.
Efforts are made to bring everything down

to size: theres even a pint-sized jeepney.
NATIONAL MUSEUM OF THE FILIPINO
PEOPLE
This museum (Map pp80-1; %527 1209; Former Finance Bldg, Teodoro Valencia Circle; admission P100, free
Thu; h9am-5pm Tue-Sun) houses a vast collection, including the skullcap of the Philippines earliest known inhabitant, Tabon
Man (said by some to actually be a woman),
who lived around 24,000 BC. A large section of the museum is devoted to porcelain
plates, coins, jewellery etc recovered from
the wreck of the San Diego, a Spanish galleon that sank off the coast of Luzon in
1600. Other treasures include a large collection of pre-Hispanic artefacts and musical
instruments. In the central hall you will
find the stunning Spoliarium, painted by
Filipino master Juan Luna, which provides
harsh commentary on Spanish rule.
NATIONAL MUSEUM OF THE PHILIPPINES
Closed for renovation, a process that is proceeding at a glacial pace, this once-proud
museum (Map pp80-1; %527 0306; P Burgos St) is
home to an amazing collection of Filipino
art. But its all locked away inside.
Binondo, Santa Cruz & Quiapo

These are some of the oldest parts of Manila.
It was always the centre for trading, and
there are numerous markets in the warren
of streets (see p107). The citys Chinatown
is also here. The entire area is a great place
to explore, especially on weekends when
the half of the population not in malls is

shopping here. The LRT1 Carriedo Station
is in the heart of the action.
QUIAPO
Quiapo Church (Map p82; %736 2854; Quezon Blvd;

h6am-noon & 2-8pm) is a 1933 replacement
of an older structure destroyed by fire. Its
cream-coloured edifice is designed along
baroque lines and the church is one of Manilas best-known landmarks. A Catholic
parish since 1586, Quiapo is the home of
the Black Nazarene, an image of Christ believed to be miraculous. The life-size statue,
carved from ebony, was first brought to
Quiapo in 1767. Twice a year the greatly
revered image is carried on the shoulders
of thousands of frenzied devotees in one
of Manilas biggest religious festivals, the
Black Nazarene Procession (see p88).
In front of the church lies Plaza Miranda,
where the common folk came to watch
beauty contests, political rallies and various
events and festivities, until it was destroyed
by a bloody bombing in 1971 that preceded
Marcos imposition of martial law. After
many years of neglect, Plaza Miranda has
been renovated into a Roman-style square
with pillars, arches and decorative urns.
On a crowded side street just to the
east, you will find Bahay Nakpil-Bautista (Map
p82; %734 9341; 452 A Bautista St; adult/child P20/10;
h9am-noon & 1-5pm Tue-Sun), where the widow
of Andres Bonifacio, father of the Philippine Revolution, lived after his death. A
historic landmark in itself, the house is used
for occasional cultural exhibits.
At the top of Hidalgo St, your attention
will be caught by the soaring spires of San
Sebastian Church (Map p82; %734 8908; Hidalgo
St; h5.30am-9pm), a Gothic structure that is
actually constructed of prefabricated steel.
The jewel-like interior is accentuated with
lovely stained-glass windows.
The Golden Mosque (Map p82; % 734 1508;
Globo de Oro St), erected on a site where a hotel
named Globo de Oro used to stand, serves
the growing Muslim community that has
settled in the vicinity.
CHINATOWN
After centuries of suppression by the Spanish, Manilas Chinese population quickly

rose on the economic and social ladder
under more liberal administrations. Today
MANILA
MANILA
80 MA N I L A R i z a l Pa r k , E r m i t a , M a l a t e & Pa c o
St
ve
s A
tion
a
d N
ite
Un
Ge
t
o S
cob St
ey
Gr
Flo
12
a S
t
St
ura
St
St
le
acib
Ap
Ermita
St
oda
38
Ben
itez
43
t
s S
ro
Ped
St
Gil
Sala
ncil
int
St
Gu
lo
n
o
v
t A
St
St
riat
ico
An
St
io
Luis
ton
t
s S
es
lgo
St
ero
err
Lim
St
t
a S
ros
ida
r H
squ
Pila
Va
YO
Gu
ria
Ma
edio
Rem
St
Ad
ico
San
St
Ad
ui
en
id
Pr
es
Blvd
28
t
a S
eco
Ald
16
20
At the northern end of Paredes St stands the

bell tower of Binondo Church (Map p82; cnr Quintin
Paredes St & Ongpin St; h6am-7pm), an unusual
octagonal structure dating back to 1596.
The rest of the church is a modern replacement for war damage. Inside there is a lurid
statue of a bloody Jesus that would do Mel
Gibson proud. Inspirational banners include Support the Seminarians! The plaza
out front is being reborn.
Further north, the Seng Guan Buddhist Temple
(Map p82; Narra St) is the centre of Manilas Buddhist community. Its not pretty but its big.
West of the old Binondo area are parts of
Manila that survived the war intact. Somewhat dodgy in character, the San Nicolas
neighbourhood in and around Madrid St
and Lavezares St has some run-down but
amazing 19th-century wooden houses complete with mother-of-pearl windows, elaborate carving and tiled street signs.
Ermita & Malate
rin
See
Av
37
s
i St
bin 0)
Ma (p9
& A Map
ri
o
atic
An
Quirino
Avenue
46
riat
14
St
res
as
TRANSPORT
China Airlines...........................47 C3
Jeepneys & FX to Ermita &
Malate.................................48 D1
s St
dio
eme
Malate
Rox
SHOPPING
Hiraya Gallery..........................45 C2
San Andres Market...................46 F5
t
il S
akp
JN
Remedios
Circle
t
r S
ENTERTAINMENT
Laffalooka................................44 B2
41
Ad
cob
Alo
DRINKING
LA Caf...................................43 C4
Taf
o
J B
St
Pila
B3
E6
C4
C3
C3
B2
C5
A1
C2
D5
St
s Jr
into
36
J Qu
nzo
D6
E3
A3
B3
F4
B3
Leo
St
Ma

33
EATING
Aristocrat................................ 37
Farmacia Fatima.......................38
Harbor View............................39
Pantalan Maynila......................40
Sala Thai..................................41
Seafood Wharf.........................42
Ge
del
F6
B1
B1
A2
D1
B2
B1
Manila Bay
al
ner
MH
C1
ro
Ped
St
Gil
go
FA
St
Pedro Gil
Robinsons
Place
the centre of the vibrant Chinese community is Chinatown, which straddles Santa
Cruz and Binondo.
Chinatown is demarcated by Goodwill
Arches (Map p82). The main street is Ongpin St; walking its length recommended
will take 10 minutes, but exploring the
neighbourhood can take hours. As in any
other Chinese enclave around the world,
youll find dozens of goldsmiths, herbalists,
teahouses and shops selling mooncakes, incense, paper money to burn for ancestors,
trinkets and other curios. There are numerous places for a snack or a meal (see p97).
As you emerge from the southeastern end
of Ongpin St, youll see a classic Europeanstyle fountain, behind which stands Santa
Cruz Church (Map p82; %733 0246; h6am-10pm).
A church was first erected here in 1608 to
minister to the swelling ranks of Chinese
Christian converts, but the present edifice
only dates back to 1957, after its predecessor was destroyed in WWII.
BINONDO
FT
t
i S
t
o S
rrer
Blv
29
t
a S
nic
o
a M
t
San
lva
B2
C2
C1
B1
C3
C1
D5
C1
E6
B2
B2
abin
A M
Gue
xas
SLEEPING
Bayview Park Hotel..................27
Bianca's Garden Hotel..............28
Boulevard Mansion..................29
Celestine Citadel Hotel.............30
Hotel La Corona.......................31
Hotel Miramar..........................32
Manila Diamond Hotel.............33
Manila Hotel............................34
Manila Pavilion........................35
Pension Natividad....................36
Ro
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

0km Post....................................8
Central Lagoon & Fountains......9
Chess Plaza..............................10
Chinese Garden........................11
Ermita Church..........................12
Japanese Garden......................13
Malate Church.........................14
Manila Orchidarium.................15
Manila Zoo...............................16
Museo ng Maynila...................17
Museo Pambata.......................18
National Museum of the
Filipino People......................19
Ninoy Aquino Memorial
Stadium................................20
Open Air Auditorium................21
Planetarium..............................22
Quirino Grandstand.................23
Relief Map of the Philippines....24
Rizal Monument.......................25
Site of Rizals Execution............26
47
St
sc
L E
fa
ose
ve
t A
t
a S
aur
PF
bra
am
31 Ar
no
a
alic
Taf
Alh
a
quiz
30
Lun
J Bo
St
res
al
St
t
r S
Paco
Park
ner
PF
Pila
32
27
t
ez S
Paco
45
ada
del
uald
Cort
MH
18
INFORMATION
Department of Tourism (DOT)
Building..................................1 D1
DOT Information Center..........(see 1)
Manila Doctors Hospital............ 2 D2
Manila Medical Center...............3 E2
National Library.........................4 C2
Philippine General Hospital.........5 E3
Rajah Travel...............................6 C2
US Embassy................................7 B3
United Nations
Avenue
35
ve
ns A
tio
d Na
Unite
Blv
t
o S
39
TM
Kala
t
a S
as
irin
42
40
76)
23
Blv
th
Sou 17
44
Rom
ap (p
Rox
Qu
St
ros
Y O
sM
St
Rizal Park
9
muro
25
Parade
Ground
no
21
11
Intra
10
Teodoro
Valencia
Circle
ria
See
13
Ma
Dr
22
48
rceli
Dr
26
St
Ma
io
PB
s
rgo
24
15
34
ak
igb
Kat
19
ifac
San
Bon
Golf Course
To
Malacaang
Palace (1.5km)
th
25
To National
Museum of the
Philippines
(200m)
v
t A
St
Taf
200 m
0.1 miles
Sights are not the real purpose of these

adjoining areas south of Rizal Park. Commerce, including the bulk of Manilas tourism infrastructure, is the story here. Close
to the water and the aspiring-to-be-grand
Roxas Blvd, you can get views of Manila
Bay from here.
MANILA
0
0
RIZAL PARK, ERMITA, MALATE & PACO

t
24
Rizal Park, Ermita, Malate & Paco
Palacio St
MANILA
Rizal Park, Ermita, Malate & Paco
0
0
BINONDO, SANTA CRUZ & QUIAPO

A
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

Bahay Nakpil-Bautista........................1
Binondo Church..................................2
Golden Mosque................................. 3
Goodwill Arches.................................4
Plaza Miranda....................................5
Quiapo Church.................................. 6
San Sebastian Church........................ 7
Santa Cruz Church.............................8
Seng Guan Buddhist Temple...............9
26
SHOPPING
Arranque Market.............................21
Central Market.................................22
Divisoria Market...............................23
Ilalim ng Tulay................................. 24
C3
D2
A3
D4
Quinta Market................................. 25 D4
Tutuban Center Mall........................26 B2
TRANSPORT
Buses............................................... 27 D4
Buses to Makati................................(see 5)
Jeepneys & FX to Rizal Park, Ermita,
Malate & Pasay............................(see 5)
Jeepneys & FX to University of Santo
Tomas & Quezon City................(see 27)
Philippine Rabbit Bus Terminal.........28 D3
To Monumento (5km)
Valeriano Fugoso
St
22
Lope de Vega St

St
St
10
Rizal Ave
F T
orre
s
25
Quezon
Bridge
7
27
1
lgo
Hida
St
24
Globo de
Oro St
3
t)
eS
gu
houses a greatly revered image of the Virgin

Mary, called Nuestra Seora de Remedios
(Our Lady of Remedies). It was first built in
1588; this version dates from the 1860s.
Nearby, Remedios Circle is the bulls-eye
for numerous good restaurants, cafs and
MacArthur
Bridge
ha
del Pilar St & Remedios St, Malate; h6am-noon & 3-8pm)
St
(Ec
construction that replaced the original hermitage destroyed during WWII, is home to
the widely venerated Nuestra Seora de Guia
(Our Lady of Guidance). Legend has it that
this richly robed image of the Virgin Mary
was found by Legazpi on 19 May 1571, the
day the Spanish forces took over Manila.
Malate Church (Map pp80-1; %400 5877; cnr MH
St
Ermita Church (Map pp80-1; %523 2754; MH del

Pilar St & A Flores St, Ermita; h6am-7pm), a modern
St
Sr
Jones
Bridge
ia St
St
T Mapua
St
St
Pate
rno
St
Carriedo
Carriedo
St
ca
St
River
Esc
St
8
Plaza Santa
Cruz
lan
es
Pasig
e
Vic
olt
red
Fort
Santiago
Puyat St
Pa
Pa
San
nte
Quiapo
11
in
int
St
Roxas
Bridge
ari
sm
Da
St
Qu
t
a S
aS
an
rac
Bar
St
as
eva
St
Plaza del
Conde
St
Nu
cio
rid
ad
Sa
do
an
ern
n St
16
St
un
lon
rce
Ba
lP
De
Ongpi
Santa Cruz
South
Tetuan
4
St
Friendship
Bridge
20
an
As
za
St
ve
La
las
San
ico
Nicolas an N
S
14
17
Binondo
Elc
s
re
St
na
15
18
Lu
St
Salazar St
13
el
Cr
ist
av
Cl
Jua
nt
North
Friendship
Bridge
19
mission to building, performance prices vary; h9am-6pm

Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat & Sun). It is set back from
Recto
21
nzo
Rege
Reina
23
Sa
12
City Jail
28
Chinatown
r St
Sole
nte S
t
ra
St
Doroteo Jos
Andaluc
St
Ave
St
ya
to
Yla
bo
o J
os
St
Rec
Gandara
Re
ote
CM
Alo
o
ct
Ta
To North
Harbor
(500m)
ve
Dor
n Blvd
D
C3
C3
A3
C3
B3
B3
B3
B3
Narra St
Jose A
bad
San
tos
St
EATING
Carvajal Street..................................10 B3
Hap Chan.........................................11 C3
Happy Veggie...................................12 B3
Ling Nam Noodle Factory and

Wonton Parlor..............................13
Mandarine Palace.............................14
MB Bakery.......................................15
MXT.................................................16
President Restaurant.........................17
President Tea House.........................18
Salazar Bakery..................................19
Tasty Dumplings...............................20
Quezo
D4
B3
D4
C3
D4
D4
D4
C4
B2
play here is a fascinating and fitting lasting

legacy for the Marcos era.
The cost was enormous, and was born
by an economy that in the 1960s and 1970s
could not properly supply the basic necessities of life to its people. There are numerous
exhibition halls and other buildings scattered about the vast site. Some components,
like the Westin Philippine Plaza (see p95)
and the Philippine International Convention
Center (Map p84) are surviving well. Others,
such as the Manila Film Center (see p105)
and the Coconut Palace (see the boxed text,
right), struggle against inglorious fates.
Most successful is the centrepiece of the
development, the Cultural Center of the Philippines (CCP; Map p84; %551 3725; Roxas Blvd; free ad-
400 m
0.2 miles
bars, although the circle itself is a somewhat

barren expanse of patchy grass.
The Manila Zoological & Botanical Gardens
(Map pp80-1; %400 1885; entrance on M Adriatico St;

admission P10; h6am-7pm), usually shortened to
Manila Zoo, is home to a diverse collection

of animals but the premises are badly in
need of renovation.
Cultural Center of the Philippines

Conceived during the era of Imelda Marcos grand plans for Manila, the Cultural
Center of the Philippines (CCP) refers to
both the vast collection of white elephants
on the reclaimed land in the bay and the
performing arts centre of the same name
(see opposite). The decaying excess on dis-
Roxas Blvd and constructed in the bombastic style favoured by dictators everywhere.
The CCP never quite lived up to its
promise of being a centre of culture for the
masses, but the building has a grand design
by noted Filipino architect Leandro Locsin. Inside is an art gallery and a museum of
musical instruments (%832 1125; adult/child P30/20;
h10am-6pm Tue-Sun). Three theatres regularly
present performances by the Philippine
Philharmonic Orchestra, Ballet Philippines
and local and visiting artists (see p105).
Nearby, the GSIS Museo ng Sining (Map p84;
%551 1301; GSIS Bldg; admission free; h9-11am &
1-4pm Tue-Sat) houses an extensive collection
of contemporary Filipino art. On display

are paintings, sculptures and tapestries by
such famous Filipino artists as Fernando
Amorsolo and Hernando Ocampo.
To the north, Star City (Map p84; %832 0307;
CCP Complex, Roxas Blvd; admission P50; h1pm-midnight
Fri-Sun Feb-Aug, 4pm-midnight Mon-Fri & 1pm-midnight
Sat & Sun Sep-Jan) is an amusement park with a
few thrilling rides in the heart of the CCP.

Just north of the complex youll notice
the Manila Yacht Club (Map p84), where the
moneyed few keep their pleasure craft.
Across the way, the Bangko Sentral ng Pilipinas (Map p84; cnr Roxas Blvd & P Ocampo Sr St) oversees the countrys monetary affairs. Its also
home to the Metropolitan Museum of Manila
(Map p84; %523 7855; adult/child P50/30; h10am6pm Mon-Sat), which showcases a collection
of gold ornaments and ancient pottery plus

exciting changing exhibits of contemporary
Filipino art.
South of the CCP and west of Baclaran is

what looks like a barren wasteland. This is
all landfill into the bay to allow yet more development. It looks bleak now, but theres a
vast shopping mall (surprise!), condos and
more on the way.
To get to the CCP from Malate or Ermita, take any Baclaran-bound jeepney on
M H del Pilar St and get off at P Ocampo Sr
St. You can then either walk to the CCP or
take one of the jeepneys that ply a circular
route around the complex.
Chinese Cemetery
As in life, so it is in death for Manilas
wealthy Chinese citizens, who are buried
with every modern convenience in the huge
Chinese Cemetery (Map pp72-3; Rizal Ave Extension or
Aurora Ave; hSouth Gate 7.30am-7pm). There are
THE COCONUT PALACE
Of all of Imeldas wacky schemes, this one
may be the wackiest. Hearing that Pope
John Paul II was planning a visit to the
flock in the Philippines, Imelda ordered
that a grand palace be built. And not just
any palace either, but one showcasing the
nations crafts and materials.
Huge teams of craftsmen laboured overtime to complete this edifice in time for the
pontiffs arrival. As Imelda readied herself to
throw open the door to welcome the pope,
she got stiffed. After sternly chastising that
the US$37 million cost could have gone to
better uses, such as clean water for the
people, the pope went elsewhere.
Left with a palace (the name derives
from the extensive use of coconut materials) and no guests, Imelda eventually seized
upon a couple of C-level celebrities for a
gala opening: Brooke Shields and George
Hamilton. As camp goes, you cant do much
better.
Today the palace is rented for wedding
parties (P25,000 for a four-hour reception).
But you neednt get hitched to enjoy the
place; tours of the palace (Map p84; %8321898; admission P100; h9am-4pm Mon-Fri) are
available. Among other details, reverential
attendants explain that on opening night,
Brooke got pineapple-fibre sheets for
her room while the ever-tanned George
snuggled into banana-fibre sheets.
MANILA
MANILA
Binondo, Santa Cruz & Quiapo
MA N I L A A c t i v i t i e s 85
0
0
Pasay City
ta St
San Roque
28 19
Magallanes
St
uz
sD
mausoleums with crystal chandeliers, aircon, hot and cold running water, kitchens
and flushing toilets (in case the interred are
caught short on the way to paradise).
The guards are knowledgeable and offer
tours of the more ostentatious tombs for a fee
(set the price beforehand). On 1 and 2 November (All Saints Day and All Souls Day),
hundreds of Chinese-Filipino families gather
to offer food and flowers to their ancestors,
and have family reunions themselves.
To get to the cemetery from Ermita and
Malate, take a Monumento jeepney to Aurora Blvd (where Rizal Ave becomes Rizal
Ave Extension), and walk east to Heurtes
St, which runs up to the gate. Abad Santos
is the nearest LRT station.
Cr
Magallanes
Village
Domestic Rd
Bayview
Dr
ane
17
d
Aurora Blv
e
Quirino Av
Airport Rd
elo
TRANSPORT
Air Philippines......................(see 24)
Asian Spirit..........................(see 24)
BLTB Bus Terminal.................19 C3
Cebu Pacific.........................(see 24)
Baclaran
Five Star Bus Lines Terminal...20 C3
To NAIA III Genesis & Crow Bus
(1km)
Terminals...........................21 C3
Andre
ws Ave
JAM Transit Bus Terminal.......22 B2
Jeepneys to Manila Domestic
Airport & NAIA..................23 B3
24
Laoag International Airlines....24 C4
Manila
Mt Samat Ferry Express..........25 A1
Domestic
Philippine Airlines.................. 26 C6
Airport
Philtranco Bus Terminal..........27 C3
SEAIR..................................(see 24)
Sun Cruises Corregidor Ferry
Terminal..........................(see 25)
Victory Liner Bus Terminal.....
NAIA III 28 C3
Baclaran
(South Terminal)
23
Tomas
Claudio St
27
20
Ap
gall
los Santos
Epifanio de (EDSA)
Taft
Ave
7
21
Ma
EDSA
EATING
Figaro Coffee.........................11 A1
Evangelis
St
ve
Taft A
Derham
15
B1
B3
B1
B1
A2
ENTERTAINMENT
Amazing Philippines Theater..12 A2
Casino Filipino........................13 B6
Cultural Center of the
Philippines..........................14 A1
Cuneta Astrodome.................15 B2
Libertad Cockpit....................16 C2
Roligon Cockpit......................17 B4
Star City.................................18 A1
Star Theater.........................(see 18)
A Arnaiz
Ave (Pa
say Rd)
16
Libertad
on St
SLEEPING
Century Park Hotel...................6
Copacabana Apartment-Hotel..7
Orchid Garden Suites................8
Traders Hotel Manila................9
Westin Philippine Plaza..........10
St
St
arris
FB H
a St
ad
Libert
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

Bangko Sentral ng Pilipinas....(see 4)
Coconut Palace........................1 A1
GSIS Museo ng Sining..............2 A2
Manila Yacht Club....................3 A1
Metropolitan Museum of
Manila..................................4 A1
Philippine International
Convention Center..............5 A2
iso
Leveriz
Blvd
12
uya
Gil P
Roxas
22
Ave)
y)
e
t Av
ndia
(Bue
Ed
Hw
CCP
er
Av
Sup
Gil Puyat
Sen
ala
uth
18
10
Ay
So
y (
Hw
O
P
1
ito
(V14
t
r S
a bit distant. Check with the museum or the

DOT Information Center (p75) in case you
can once again wander the grounds.
Makati
me
25
oS
p
cam
z
Cru
t
Donada S
St)
See Makati Map

(pp86-7)
s
s O
4
3
11
1 km
0.5 miles
Malacaang Palace
The official residence of the President of
the Philippines, Malacaang Palace (Map pp72-3;
%734 7421; JP Laurel Sr St, San Miguel) was originally a Spanish grandees summer house. It
used to be possible to go on tours of the
palace but these are no longer offered. Likewise, the Museo ng Malacaang (%735 6201),
which displayed memorabilia related to the
Philippines past 13 presidents, along with
old photos of Manila, is now closed. Unlike
some other recent presidents, Gloria Macapagal Arroyo actually lives and works in the
palace. Given the propensity of the Philippine people to show up in the hundreds of
thousands and ask that the president leave,
executive branch prefers to keep the public
The business centre of Manila has also become its nightlife centre. The towers here
house the nations major corporations and
most of the major hotels. It all came about
after WWII when the Ayala family seized
upon the destruction of the rest of the city
as a chance to start building.
Makati, the former local airport (Ayala
and Makati Aves were the runways), seems
to have boundless growth ahead of it. But
just when you think youre someplace like
Singapore, a whiff of sewage will bring you
down to earth. The excellent Filipinas Heritage Library (p74) is housed in the muchrestored 1930s terminal for the former
airport.
Theres a famous Ninoy Aquino Statue (Map
pp86-7; cnr Paseo de Roxas & Ayala Ave) showing him
right before he was shot. Its built on the
spot where many pro-democracy rallies
took place in the 1980s and 1990s.
On the north side of Makati is the P Burgos St area, a once-notorious area for girlie
bars and the like. There are still some there
(with names such as Rascals, Cuddles and
Tickles), but the trade is moving elsewhere
and new projects promise to change the area
once and for all. Where the fake-perfume
touts will go is anybodys guess.
Down by the river, the Museo Ng Makati
(Map pp72-3; %896 0277; JP Rizal St; h8am-5pm TueSun) is a classic old Manila house from the
1800s (look for the mother-of-pearl windows), with rotating exhibitions relating to
local history. Its not open between exhibitions, so check.
AYALA MUSEUM
The Ayala Museum (Map pp86-7; %757 7117; Greenbelt, Ayala Center; adult/child P350/250; h9am-6pm TueFri, 10am-7pm Sat & Sun) moved into an impressive
new building in 2004. Its now an excellent

museum with exhibits on Filipino culture,
art and history. Recent exhibits included a
well-curated one on the proselytising of the
early Catholic Church. At the heart of the
collection are dozens of dioramas tracing
the nations history. Just as stained-glass
windows were a way for churches to engage
and educate the masses, so too are these
models. As you browse, it quickly becomes

apparent just how violent local history has
been. Number 17 showing early troubles for
monks rivals anything in the Pirates of the
Caribbean for colourful mayhem.
The guided tours (P100) of the museum
are highly recommended.
Quezon City
Quezon has almost 500,000 residents and it
sprawls over the slightly hilly terrain northeast of the centre. It is known for its vibrant
nightlife along T Morato Avenue. Some of
the energy comes from the University of the
Philippines Manila (Map pp72-3; www.upm.edu.ph),
which has a vast campus about 1km east of
Quezon City.
In the heart of the commercial action,
in a traffic circle where Timog Ave and T
Morato Ave meet, the Monument to Boy Scouts
(Map p88) will not be winning any merit
badges for appearance. Many of the life-size
statues of scouts could use a few square
knots in order to stay in one piece. Numerous nearby sidestreets are named after
scouts a mayor years ago was a big fan.
Quezon Memorial Circle (Map p88; h6am-10pm;
admission free) is to Quezon City what Rizal
Park is to Manila. Particularly on Sundays,
people come here to stroll, jog, cycle, fly
a kite or practise some ballroom dancing.
One can spend the day contentedly reading a book, having a picnic or just relaxing amid the restful greenery. In the centre
stands a towering monument honouring
Manuel L Quezon, President of the Philippine Commonwealth, who died in exile in
the USA during WWII.
At the nearby Ninoy Aquino Parks & Wildlife Center (Map p88; %924 6031; adult/child P10/5;
h9am-4pm) injured wildlife are nursed back
to life. A few patients who never checked
out are on display, including a Burmese
python and various birds, reptiles and
monkeys.
ACTIVITIES
Climbing
Although your greatest climb in Manila

might just be the endless stairs to an LRT
or MRT station, there are many good places
to climb in the region, such as Mt Banahaw and Mt San Cristobal in South Luzon
(see the boxed text, p127) and Mt Pinatubo
(p134) north of Manila.
MANILA
PARAAQUE & PASAY

Pre
MANILA
Paraaque & Pasay
86 MA N I L A M a k a t i
Makati
Rd)
24
C3
D4
D3
D3
D1
C3
A2
A3
E2
D4
A3
C2
D3
F2
B4
D3
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

Alliance Franaise...........................17
Ayala Museum................................18
Ninoy Aquino Statue......................19
Sto Nio De Paz Chapel..................20
C1
F1
C3
F2
SLEEPING
AIM Conference Center................. 21 C4
Charter House................................22 E2
DRINKING
Caffe Ricco Renzo..........................57
Conways Bar................................. 58
Handlebar.......................................59
Hard Rock Caf............................. 60
Heckle & Jeckle..............................61
Ice Vodka Bar.................................62
Merks Bar Bistro.............................63
Sid's Bar.........................................64
C1
D3
E1
D4
D1
F2
F2
D1
ENTERTAINMENT
Greenbelt 3 Theaters......................65
Red Box..........................................66
Repertory Globe Theatre................ 67
V Bar............................................. 68
F3
F2
D4
D4
dia
St
Zo
oid
ter
As
Ave
Makati
St
os
SA
ED
EATING
Banana Leaf Curry House...............34 E2
Benjarong Royal Thai Restaurant..(see 23)
Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf..................35 F2
Confusion......................................36 C2
Dad's.............................................37 D3
Dome.............................................38 A3
Eat..................................................39 B2
Gaudi.............................................40 F2
Grappa's.........................................41 C1
Il Ponticello.....................................42 B2
Italiannis........................................43 E3
La Tienda.......................................44 D1
Lumiere..........................................45 D3
Masas.............................................46 E3
D2
F2
D3
cle
e(
69
F2
F2
F2
E3
C2
F2
E2
To Quezon
City (6km);
Cubao (10km)
Cir
Av
Ayala
23
Max Brenner...................................47
Museum Cafe.................................48
My LK............................................49
Nuvo..............................................50
Organic Farmers Market................ 51
People's Palace...............................52
Rustan's Supermarket.....................53
Schwarzwlder German
Restaurant..................................54
Sentro 1771....................................55
Zen................................................ 56
ge
Rd)
rid
nto
82
say
mb
Sa
26
Forbes Park
North
To American
Memorial
Cemetery
(1.5km)
SHOPPING
Balikbayan Handicrafts...................69
Budji Layug....................................70
Caffe Ricco Renzo..........................71
Glorietta 1..................................... 72
Glorietta 2..................................... 73
Glorietta 3..................................... 74
Glorietta 4..................................... 75
Greenbelt 1....................................76
Greenbelt 2....................................77
Greenbelt 3....................................78
Greenbelt 4....................................79
Landmark Department Store..........80
SaGuijo..........................................81
SM Department Store.....................82
D4
C1
C1
D4
D4
D4
D4
E2
E3
F3
F2
D4
A2
E4
TRANSPORT
Air France.......................................83 C1
Air Philippines..............................(see 22)
Asiana Airlines................................84 B3
Ayala Center Bus Terminal............. 85 D4
British Airways................................86 B3
Cathay Pacific Airways.................(see 97)
Cebu Pacific Fair............................87 C3
Continental Airlines........................88 C3
Emirates.........................................89 D1
Gulf Air..........................................90 B2
Japan Airlines.................................91 B3
KLM-Royal Dutch Airlines..............92 C2
Korean Air......................................93 C2
Malaysia Airlines............................94 C2
Northwest Airlines..........................95 B3
Philippine Airlines............................96 E2
Qantas Airways............................(see 86)
Singapore Airlines...........................97 B2
Thai Airways International..............98 C2
Diving
Taking a plunge into the Pasig River, you
might see some truly horrible things right
before your body dissolves. The waters of
Manila Bay are only somewhat better. But
around the coasts in Subic and especially
Anilao, theres excellent diving. Divers Network (Map p88; %926 4466; www.diveph.com; 192 T
Morato Ave, Quezon City) offers a range of daytrips
and longer excursions. Its an excellent and
knowledgeable centre; equipment rentals
and lessons are available (PADI open-water
certification P10,000).
Golf
Ta
li
St say
Ca
los
13
60
74
Ayala 75
10 Center
31
73
72
67
(Pa
cS
t
St
St
lax
re
Ga
ta
An
St
da
rra
Ce
30
37
A Arn
aiz
Ave
33
66
let
78 65
46 50
nza St
Espera
E4
B4
A4
E4
D3
A2
D2
F3
D4
D3
D4
Dusit Hotel Nikko...........................23

El Cielito Inn...................................24
Herald Suites..................................25
Hotel Inter-Continental Manila.......26
Makati Shangri-La......................... 27
Makati YMCA International Hotel..28
Mandarin Oriental Manila..............29
New World Renaissance Hotel........30
Oakwood Premier......................... 31
Peninsula Manila............................32
Tower Inn...................................... 33
35
62
49
55
Av
To Pasay
City (2km)
INFORMATION
Australian Embassy..........................1
Bibliarch...........................................2
Canadian Embassy...........................3
Filipinas Heritage Library..................4
French Embassy................................5
German Embassy.............................6
Makati Central Post Office...............7
Makati Medical Center.....................8
National Book Store..........................9
Neo.Computer.Net.........................10
Netherlands Embassy.....................11
New Zealand Embassy....................12
Power Books..................................13
Power Books...................................14
Singapore Embassy.........................15
U.K Embassy..................................16
63 52
co
43
77
40
Re
Real St
Ave
Makati
Ave
Makati
St
(Pasay
aiz Ave
A Arn
Ur
et
n
da
Av
56
85
nza St
Espera
olo
St
ors
do
Am
nta
in
ed
St
Jimenez
z St 21
Benavide
Urdaneta
Village
de
Herr
Rod
rigu
ez S
Rad
t
a S
t
Cas
tro
St
C Pa
lanc
a St
Gil S
t
ala
68
oxa
de R
ela
St
Aguirre
34
53
27
80
Paseo
Soria St
58
47
Ay
Greenbelt
Park
Gambao St
Ad
nS
tilla
San
Pres Sergio Osmea Hwy

(South Super Hwy)
45
14
32
See Enlargement
79
20
nio
era
St
St
25
18
48
Park
16
87
Legaspi St
Legaspi
Village
Philippine Stock
Exchange Plaza
St
Greenbelt
St
88
er
as
St
pit
ad
Av
on
gt
hin
as
15
St
St
era
rr
He
19
n A Bel-Air I
ve
76
uz
St
ces
Ro
95
os
St
to
St
Sot
edo
Salc
ino
W
r
avie
lan
11
Cr
Rosa
Ro
San
to D
omin
go
Santo
St
Tom
as
St
Ayala
Triangle
Park
Ju
22
LegCaspi St
ab
ild
o
St
xas
de
St
86
Ave
Ave
96
54
lar
42
Ayala
Vil
36
ia
Pa
St
Dela
Bo
St
JC Velasquez St
38
Ch
la
De
12
stin St
end
29
de
84
sa
Agu
Vale
91
St
Ro
San
97
b
Ur
Salcedo
te S Village
t
59
Roxas
Triangle
seo
Levis
ro St
To Pasay
Pu
City
l
Gi
(2km)
n
Se
an
Dela
illas St
90
44
yaa
(Bu
92
51
Kala
89
5
Se
39
Av
St
osta
Tordes
ris S
61
93
Ave
(Bu
t
ya
64
ve)
dia A
(Buen 83
98
zS
ndia
St
Pola
ifa
Ma
iter
Jup
See Makati Avenue & P Burgos

Street Map (p93)
che
ka
Ya
70
San
Power Up (% 0918 902 0754, 631 4675) is a

group of Manila climbers that can organise
big and small climbs. Rates begin at about
P1500 per person.
Bel-Air II
Ave
at
Puy
Gil
94
n
e
S
St
lugay
St
400 m
0.2 miles
Ep
Ayala Extn
28
81
41
Orbit St
Kakarong St
South Ave
g St
17
71
Manila
South
Cemetery
Metropolitan Ave
Kamagon
Comet St
Extn
po Sr
P Ocam
Nicanor Garcia St
0
0
Saturn St
MAKATI
MA N I L A A c t i v i t i e s 87
Just outside the walls of Intramuros, on

what used to be the moat surrounding the
city, is the manicured 18-hole, par-66 Club
Intramuros Golf Course (Map p76; %527 6612; Bonifacio Dr; green fees P1300-2100). Its a uniquely urban
venue and in a nod to the local ethos, you
can obtain the shady services of an umbrella girl for P200 as well as rent clubs.
Spas
Many top-end hotels have spas that welcome daytime patrons. One of the best is at
the Mandarin Oriental Manila (Map pp86-7; %750
8888; www.mandarinoriental.com; cnr Makati Ave & Paseo
de Roxas; packages from P3200), where the treat-
ments are lavish and diverse.

Sanctuario (Map p90; %450 1127; 1829 J Bocobo St,
Malate; h2-11pm) is an upscale spa set in an
elegant old house, with lap and whirlpools
out back in the garden. Treatments span the
gamut from simple massage (P900 for 90
minutes) to much more esoteric treatments
like a honey-and-tangerine facelift (P600).
A caf serves organic refreshments.
Swimming
Many of the bigger hotels have their own

pools, but if you are billeted at budget accommodation without one, you can (for a
fee) use the facilities at the following places.
At Seafood Wharf (Map pp80-1; %400 5066; South
Blvd, Rizal Park; admission P300; h7am-5pm) you can
pretend youre swimming with the fishies
in this large, clean pool, then have one for
lunch in the seaside restaurant (p96).
MANILA
MANILA
Makati
88 MA N I L A T o u r s
0
0
QUEZON CITY & CUBAO

B
Minda
Quezon
City
Ave
ve
nA
yaa
o Ave
S
ED
e(
o St
Ave
A)
Torillo
GMA
Kamuning
T Mor
Ave ato
24
15
23
New
25
21
Yor
Ave
22
Yale
t
k S
Cubao
a
ror
Au
let
Ba
Do
17
d
Blv
Araneta
Center
1
dy
St
ez
gu
dri
ue
Ro
en
Av
na
ma
He
re
Jua
mo
Dr
na
TRANSPORT
Araneta Center Bus Terminal... 20 D4
Baliwag Transit Bus Terminal....21 C4
BLTB......................................(see 20)
Dagupan Bus Co......................22 C3
Dominion Bus Lines..................23 C4
JAC Liner Bus Terminal............24 C3
JAM Transit Bus
St Terminal........25 C3
3rd
Goethe
Philtranco..............................(see
20)
Institut
Tritran Bus
Terminal.................26 C3
Manila
To Goethe Institut;
Manila (1km);
Quiapo (6km)
18
20
d
Cubao-Araneta
Blv
Center
on
az
Tu
P
ee
Str
There are also pools at Century Park Hotel

(Map p84; %528 8888; 599 P Ocampo Sr St, Malate; admission P275; h7am-8pm) and the Ninoy Aquino
Memorial Stadium (Map pp80-1; %525 2408; M Adriatico St, Malate; admission P30; h8-11.30am & 1-5pm
Tue-Sun).
his walks come with recorded mood music blasted from a

boombox. Highly recommended.
Ivan Mandy (%0917 329 1622; www.oldmanilawalks
.com; tours P400) Ivan has a deep knowledge of Manila
and its history and culture. Hes an expert at ferreting out
the often overlooked gems of the city.
TOURS
FESTIVALS & EVENTS
There are two locals offering walking tours

of Manila. Both are captivating and entertaining, offering a variety of walks around
the city. They may be the best thing to happen to Manila tourism in decades.
Carlos Celdran (%0926 259 7506; www.celdrantours
Manilas best events are pegged to the religious festivals found throughout the country. See p437 for details of countrywide
festivals.
Black Nazarene Procession The Quiapo Church (p79)
.blogspot.com; tours P200-400) Possibly the most entertaining ticket in town. Carlos is a one-man show of history,
criticism and trivia. Flamboyant to the extreme, some of
SLEEPING
Manila has accommodation to suit all price
ranges, from spartan P500 box-like rooms
to luxurious US$1000 penthouse suites with
several rooms, a private swimming pool and
a butler. In between, you should expect to
get a decent midrange room with cable TV,
a refrigerator and maybe a pool in an interesting part of town for somewhere between
P1400 and P3000. Hotels at the top end are
as luxurious as any in Asia, and often quite
a bit cheaper; deals abound.
Malate and Ermita have traditionally
been popular choices for travellers, but the
rise of Makati means that many people now
stay there also.
-hotel.com.ph; 1 Rizal Park; s/d from US$200/250; as)
Rd
ning
Datelines Bookstore...............(see 18)

Gateway Mall.......................... 17 D4
Marikina Shoe Expo................. 18 D4
Popular Book Store...................19 B3
celebrates Independence from Spain on 12 June.
Manila Hotel (Map pp80-1; %527 0011; www.manila
d
ias R
Kam
26
Kam
Independence Day A huge parade in Rizal Park
Rizal Park
St
Santiag
V Lun
a
Av
Av
Scout
as St
Ave
East
tos
rra
T Mor
at
San
ue
3
13
Fernan
14
dez St
Scout
De G
2
uia
Scout
Lazcan St
o St
12
Scout
West
Kala
los
sg
t E
Ave
16
7
Scout
Gil
na
SHOPPING
Blacksoup Project Artspace.....(see 18)
Bong Salaveria.......................(see 18)
Chunky Far Flung Gallery +
Store..................................(see 18)
Sg
Timog
de
St
6 8
19
B3
B2
B2
C2
Do
Sr
ia
ac
10
Av
Ign
er
DRINKING
Sharky's Bar & Grill...................15 B3
Tubbataha Divers Grill...........(see
13)
Ave
uez
11
oth
anio
no
lba
C1
ve
AC2
o
ENTERTAINMENT
E R
Virgin Cafe...............................16 B3
9
St
Mat al ino
Epif
tA
D4
B3
B3
EATING
Don A
lejandro
Bellini's...................................(see
18)
Roces
Ave B2
Gerry's Grill..............................10
Sc
ou
t Chuat
Heaven 'n Eggs......................(see
13)
uco
My Spoon................................11 B2
Red Crab..................................12 B3
Restaurant Uno........................13 B3
Zucchini's.................................14 B3
drig
To University of the
Philippines Manila
(UP) (1km)
ou
SLEEPING
Imperial Palace Suites.................6
New Camelot Hotel....................7
Rembrandt Hotel........................8
Sulo Hotel..................................9
University Ave
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

Araneta Coliseum...................... 1
Diver's Network.........................2
Monument
toveBoy Scouts...........3
onte A
Del MAquino
Ninoy
Parks & Wildlife
Center....................................4
Quezon City Hall.......................o5n
ez
Qu
Co
Quezon
Memorial
Circle
Quezon
Avenue
Sc
Ave
Av
n
mo
Malak
Ave
Roosevelt
North
Baler St
alt
we
ve
s A
North
Avenue
aya
Epifani
Ave (E o de los Sa
DSA)
ntos
nao A
ve
A
Muoz
1 km
0.5 miles
Vis
MANILA
Quezon City & Cubao
houses the Black Nazarene, a black image of Christ, which

is paraded through the streets in a massive procession on
9 January and again during Holy Week (the week between
Palm Sunday and Easter).
One of Asias grand hotels, the Manila Hotel

has been a place of history, from Macarthur
to Marcos (ask the concierge if you can see
the archives). The lobby reeks with heritage,
right down to the huge armchairs and glasstopped tables perfect for conducting your
correspondence. But this is the Philippines
and not Singapore, so dont expect the hotel
to be stuffy it isnt. Theres a hint of fraying
around the edges, but that only adds to the
charm. Some rooms are in a modern tower.
Ermita & Malate

The one place in town where youll see lots
of other travellers are these old neighbourhoods stretching south from Rizal Park and
east from the bay. Accommodation is available in every price range.
BUDGET
Most budget accommodation is found in

Malate and Ermita, particularly along M
Adriatico St, A Mabini St and MH del Pilar
St. The cheapest rooms are fan-cooled and
share a bathroom; air-con rooms with private bathroom are available at higher rates.
Pension Natividad (Map pp80-1; % 521 0524;
1690 MH del Pilar St, Malate; dm P300, d with fan/air-con
P800/1000) This is the pick of the budget places.
Set back from the street, the rooms here are

clean and fresh. Theres a long shady area
outside, perfect for meeting other travellers
MA N I L A S l e e p i n g 89
or chatting with the charming owners. The

inexpensive coffee shop does good breakfasts and is open 24 hours.
Malate Pensionne (Map p90; %523 8304; www
.mpensionne.com.ph; 1771 M Adriatico St, Malate; dm
P300, d with fan/air-con P900/1100; i) The longest-
standing travellers centre in Malate has

gone a bit upscale. Its now sheltered from
the road by, of all things, a Starbucks. It is
still something of an oasis for global travellers, and has many rooms at various prices.
Mabini Pension (Map p90; %523 3930; 1337 A
Mabini St, Ermita; r with fan and shared/private bathroom
P550/600, r with air-con and private bathroom P900) In
one of the gracious residences that used to

line A Mabini St, this is a long-running pension with 30 basic rooms. Reception is bright
and cheery and theres even statuary.
Adriatico Pensionne Inn (Map p90; %404 2300;
1612 M Adriatico St, Malate; r P580-920; a) There are
29 dark but sparkling clean rooms here, some
only with fans. The staff are charming and
there is a nice little caf off the attractive entrance. Splash out for the penthouse (P2000)
and you get two floors and a terrace.
Friendlys Guesthouse (Map p90; %0917 333 1418;
www.friendlysguesthouse.com; cnr M Adriatico St & J Nakpil
St, Malate; dm P250, s/d P400/450; a) This is a new
four-room, fourth-floor place run by some

enthusiastic local travellers. Theres a nice
communal kitchen and a small terrace where
you can observe the Malate action. The dorm
room has air-con, the others dont.
Ermita Tourist Inn (Map p90; %521 8770; 1549 A
Mabini St, Ermita; s/d P660/720; a) Offers 30 clean
rooms and the added advantage of helpful
staff. The rates include breakfast, private
bathroom and air-con.
Richmond Pension (Map p90; %525 3864; 1165
Grey St, Ermita; dm P200, s/d with fan P250/430, d with
air-con P700) Tucked away in a tiny street be-
tween A Flores St and Arquiza St, this is

a family-run place with 14 simple rooms,
sharing a bathroom.
Pension Filipina (Map p90; %521 1488; 572 Engracia Reyes St, Ermita; s/d with fan P400/500, with air-con
P600/700) Near Richmond Pension, this has
11 rooms, all sharing a bathroom. Management is a bit more on the ball than at some
other cheap places.
If youre broke and other places are full
consider the following.
Victoria Mansions (Map p90; %525 9444; 600 J Nakpil
St, Malate; tw with air-con P700) Has 30 OK rooms in a 1960s
building. Each has kitchenette, TV, fridge and bathroom.
MANILA
90 MA N I L A S l e e p i n g
M ADRIATICO & A MABINI STS

0
0
A Mabini St
.rothmanhotel.com; 1633 M Adriatico St, Malate; d P13002400; as) Most of the rooms here have
balconies. More expensive ones have full

kitchens. The dcor is motel standard although the soothing comfort of the small
fountain in the lobby is blasted away by the
bad cover music.
Las Palmas Hotel (Map p90; %524 5602; www
16
.citygardenhotels.com; 1158 A Mabini St, Ermita; s/d from

P1600/1800; ais) The 160 rooms are
well equipped and large, and boast Italian-
36
P Faura St
SLEEPING
Adriatico Arms Hotel...................7
Adriatico Pensionne Inn.............. 8
City Garden Hotel.......................9
Ermita Tourist Inn..................... 10
Friendly's Guesthouse...............11
Hotel Frendy............................. 12
Hyatt Hotel and Casino Manila.. 13
Jowards Pension House............14
Las Palmas Hotel...................... 15
Lotus Garden Hotel................... 16
Mabini Pension......................... 17
Malate Pensionne..................... 18
Midtown Inn.............................19
Pacific Place Apartelle Suites......20
Pan Pacific Hotel....................... 21
19
58
27
17
4
56
Santa Monica St
Robinsons
Place
44
A5
A4
A3
A2
B2
B5
B4
A1
A3
B5
A3
A4
B5
A4
A2
A2
A5
B2
A1
A4
Pearl Garden Hotel...................22

Pension Filipina..........................23
Ralph Anthony Suites................24
Richmond Pension.....................25
Rothman Hotel......................... 26
Sundowner Centerpoint Hotel.. 27
Victoria Mansions.....................28
B4
B1
B1
B1
A4
A2
B5
EATING
604 Cafe Gallery.....................(see 48)
Bistro Remedios........................ 29 A5
Bravo!.......................................30 B5
Cafe Adriatico Premiere............31 B5
Cafe Havana............................. 32 A5
Cafe Nakpil...............................33 B5
Casa Armas...............................34 B5
Demitasse Cafe Bar...................35 A5
Kashmir.................................... 36 A2
Kink Cakes................................ 37 A4
Komiks Cafe...........................(see 51)
Korean Palace........................... 38 A5
Korean Village.......................... 39 A5
Mey Lin.................................... 40 A4
Patio Guernica..........................41 B5
Sala...........................................42 B5
Sea Food Market.......................43 B1
Shwarma Snack Center............. 44 A3

Sidebar..................................... 45 A5
Zamboanga Restaurant............ 46 A4
DRINKING
Anthology.................................47 B5
Castro at Firma.......................(see 55)
Ciboney....................................48 B5
Cowboy Grill.............................49 A1
Hobbit House........................... 50 A5
Sonata....................................(see 51)
ENTERTAINMENT
Bed...........................................51 B5
FAB.......................................... 52 A5
Robinsons Movieworld..............53 B3
Suburbia...................................54 B4
The Library.............................(see 52)
SHOPPING
Firma........................................55 B5
TRANSPORT
JB Rent A Car............................56 B2
KEI Transport............................ 57 A4
Puerto Galera Ferry Office........58 A2
3
53
R Salas St
inspired accents. Theres a spa and whirlpool.

Right off the lobby is a nice, small sushi bar.
Hotel La Corona (Map pp80-1; %524 2631; www
3
Soldado St
A Mabini St
8
46
26
2
J Quintos
Jr St
21
General M Malvar St
22
40
54
Alonzo St
Sinagoga
St
14
30 7
34
11
45
J Nakpil St
28 42
55 51
18
50
52
1
Remedios
39
38
St
35
47
31
32
Remedios
Circle
41
Remedios St
48
29
Malate
San
An
rooms are solid midrange standard. Theres

nothing overly exciting here but the staff
are friendly and the rates are good.
Boulevard Mansion (Map pp80-1; %521 8888;
www.mansiongroup.com.ph; 1440 Roxas Blvd, Ermita;
studios/ste from P1200/1800; a) The 184 units at
www.ralphanthonysuites.com; Maria Y Orosa St, Ermita;

studio/1-bedroom ste US$25/35; ai) This upmar-
this long-stay property are very good value.

All come with kitchens, the staff are eager
to please and theres daily maid service.
Deluxe corner suites (P3000) offer views
of Manila Bay. Monthly rates are equal to
about 20 nights.
Lotus Garden Hotel (Map p90; %522 1515; www
ket long-term accommodation is secluded

from the hubbub of Ermita. One-bedroom
suites have kitchenettes. Monthly rates are
equal to about 20 days rent; ask about the
specials.
Bayview Park Hotel (Map pp80-1; %526 1555;
this gem of a hotel features an eye-catching

exterior that extends to the Mediterraneanthemed common areas and rooms. Expect
all conveniences; theres a bounteous morning buffet included in rates.
Sundowner Centerpoint Hotel (Map p90; %400
Pedro Gil
St
57
15
37
Maria Y Orosa St
13
dre
s S
t
San Andres St
To Harrison Plaza (600m);

CCP (1km); Pasay (2km)
33
Hotel Frendy (Map p90; %526 4211; hotelfrendy@

yahoo.com; 1548 A Mabini St, Ermita; r P1300-2000; a)
Rooms on the high floors have views of
Manila Bay. Otherwise theres a bit of a
Miami Vice gone-to-seed quality about this
friendly (not frendy) place. The hotel boasts
a generator in case the power poops out.
Pacific Place Apartelle Suites (Map p90; %521
2279; 539 Arquiza St, Ermita; r P1400-1900; a) The 24
clean, modern apartments make this one of
the better choices in this price range. Standard and superior units are designed for one
to two people, deluxe suites for two to three
people. Monthly rates are equal to about 20
nights. You might, however, feel you are
coming home to an office block.
Ralph Anthony Suites (Map p90; %521 1107;
.bestwestern.com; 1166 M H del Pilar St, Ermita; r P16002200; ai) Affiliated with Best Western,
12
10
INFORMATION
American Express....................... 1
Fabulous Laundry....................... 2
Happy Travel.............................. 3
Sea Breeze Laundry.................... 4
Solidaridad Bookshop..................5
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

Sanctuario...................................6 B5
.laspalmashotel.com.ph; 1616 A Mabini St, Malate; r P17002000; a) The 89 modern rooms here are
comfortable and have a bright dcor. Recently renovated, this 1970s veteran has a
business centre and helpful staff.
City Garden Hotel (Map p90; %536 1451; www
25 Engraci
a Reyes St
23
24
43
Ermita
20
49
Arquiza St
.pearlgardenhotel.net; 1700 M Adriatico St, Malate; r from

P1800; ai) Among the best midrange
choices, the Pearl Garden is fairly new and

has 83 well-appointed rooms. Each has highspeed Internet, a minibar and more. Management is on the ball. If the name of the caf
(Moonriver) doesnt tell you what to expect
in the entertainment department, you probably havent spent long in the Philippines.
Rothman Hotel (Map p90; % 523 4501; www
J Bocobo St
Maria Y Orosa St
A Flores St
J Bocobo St
ing the US Embassy, this is the pick of the

neighbourhoods midrange places. Rooms
are smartly furnished and although fully
modern still have some pre-war charm. The
caf is excellent.
Adriatico Arms Hotel (Map p90; %524 7426; 561
J Nakpil St, Malate; r P1500-1800; a) A small boutique hotel right in the midst of trendy J
Nakpil St. The rooms are excellent value;
larger deluxe ones have a fridge. Theres
wrought-iron detailing throughout.
Pearl Garden Hotel (Map p90; %525 1000; www
To Rizal Park(200m);
Intramuros (400m)
M Adriatico St
marh@i-next.net; 1034-36 Roxas Blvd; r P1400-3000;

ai) In an Art Deco building overlook-
0.1 miles
MIDRANGE
Rooms at this level usually have cable TV,

room service and a front desk staffed by
professionals.
Hotel Miramar (Map pp80-1; %523 4484; mira
100 m
Grey St
1730 M Adriatico St, Malate; s/d with fan P220/308, s/d

with air-con and shared/private bathroom P440/550) Well
located, but you supply your own soap, towels and more.
Midtown Inn (Map p90; %525 1403; 551 P Faura St,
Ermita; s/d with fan P600/750, with air-con P850/1000)
Centrally located within the tourist belt; dont expect a
warm welcome.
7351; tower@i-manila.com.ph; 1315 A Mabini St, Ermita; r

P1250-1850; a) A small high-rise hotel, its 40
.citygardenhotels.com; 1227 A Mabini St, Ermita; r P14002700; ai) There are 80 newly decorated
rooms at this, the former Royal Palm Hotel.

The staff are helpful and professional. The
cheapest rooms can be dark but as you rise
through the price range you gain light and
amenities like a kitchen.
www.bayviewparkhotel.com; 1118 Roxas Blvd, Ermita;

r P2800-4000; as) Some 12 floors up, the
rooftop pool and gym overlook glorious

Manila Bay. Rooms are of a 1980s international standard.
Celestine Citadel Hotel (Map pp80-1; % 525
3347; soirie_dantes@yahoo.com; 430 Nuestra Seora de
Guia St, Ermita; r P1350-1600; a) Youll be feeling
MANILA
MANILA
M Adriatico & A Mabini Sts
Jowards Pension House (Map p90; %338 3191;
1234; www.manila.casino.hyatt.com; 1588 Pedro Gil St,

Malate; r from US$180; nais) Not to be
na S
t
Moli
St
o
iag
nt
Sa
Agu
stin
St
B V
alde
z S
t
5
ve
P G
uaz
St
Ma
kat
iA
on
Gu
erre
ro
Makati YMCA International Hotel (Map pp86-7;
a S
t
Herc
ules
do
Du
rb
an
12
St
Jun
er
ce
de
St
o
br
St
St
o S
t
4
To Sen Gil
Puyat Ave (150m);
Ayala Center
(1.5km)
St
lip
Fe
St
rgos
P Bu
u
PB
er S
St
rca
Av
e
9
11
St
Me
Ka
lay
aa
n
ve
n S
t
s
rgo
Jupit
St
rian
Ma
10
atio
St
Lun
stell
St
Here modern convenience mixes with oldworld charm. Every one of the 54 rooms in
this boutique hotel is artfully furnished. The
foyers dcor is classic European and the entire place feels a bit like a retreat. Theres a
good Japanese-style caf off the lobby.
Charter House (Map pp86-7; % 817 6001; 114
Legaspi St; r P2300-2500; ais) The 104 clean,
comfortable rooms are in an older high-rise
St
Con
eres
suites.com; 2168 Chino Roces Ave; s/d from US$60/70; ai)
ajos
You can find a number of midrange hotels

around Makati Ave and P Burgos St. There
are also a few good choices close to Ayala
Center.
Herald Suites (Map pp86-7; %759 6270; www.herald
eral
Cac
0351; biancasg@skyinet.net; 2139 M Adriatico St,

Malate; r P800-2000; ais) Formerly the
tune
Bad
MIDRANGE
Gen
Nep
Gate
i-manila.com.ph; 4402 B Valdez St; r P650-1300; as)
One of the better cheap hotels in Makati.

The 38 basic rooms have air-con although
the cheaper ones share bathrooms. The
pool is a cool respite right off the lobby.
Its a quiet, low-key place in a residential
neighbourhood.
Ave
San M
arcos
1
St
iA
hood, the Y is in its own compound away

from the already quiet street. The rooms
are basic but clean, and deluxe ones have a
fridge and TV. Whats easily the largest pool
at any Manila hotel is right outside. Its a
tight ship, and this is not the place to bring
home bar girls for 1am highjinks.
Robelle House (Map p93; %899 8209; robelle@
yaan
que
kat
%899 6101; 7 Sacred Heart Plaza St; s/d from P865/1150;

as) In a quiet residential neighbour-
Edu
P Roxa
s St
St Peter &
St Paul Church
San Ju
an St
St
St
Kala
St
San Mateo
St
ez
EATING
North Park Noodles....................10 B3
Tiananmen.................................11 B4
Ziggurat.....................................12 B4
BUDGET
Biancas Garden Hotel (Map pp80-1; %526
residence of a wealthy family, this Spanishstyle house is furnished with traditional

Filipino furniture and works of art. The 11
rooms feature numerous antiques. Set back
from the street and surrounded by walls,
the whole place feels like an oasis. Theres
shady trees and flowing plants that put you
in a different place from the madness of
Malate outside. After a hard day ferreting
out Manilas charms, take a dip in the pool
out back, then sit in the shade and enjoy a
drink. Ahhh, now youre travelling.
San
t
a S
THE AUTHORS CHOICE
J P Riza
l Ave
B V
ald
Anz
confused with the tatty Hyatt in Pasay, this

stunning new property has ice in its veins:
the public spaces are all polished surfaces
and could be in an office building. Of
the 378 rooms, those on high floors have
sweeping views and the dcor continues the
St
B3
B4
B3
A3
C2
C4
B3
A1
B3
Ma
anese owned and much patronised by Japanese tourists, this bustling 26-floor place
boasts an excellent pool and a top-floor
lounge that offers great views of the city.
The 485 rooms are very nicely appointed in
serious tones with kabuki influences. This
is the pick of the Roxas Blvd hotels.
Hyatt Hotel and Casino Manila (Map p90; %245
ian
SLEEPING
Best Western Astor Hotel.............1
Citadel Inn...................................2
City Garden Hotel........................3
Fersal Inn.....................................4
Great Eastern Hotel......................5
Oxford Suites...............................6
Regines Hotel..............................7
Robelle House..............................8
Sunette Tower..............................9
St
St
www.diamondhotel.com; cnr Roxas Blvd & J Quintos Jr

St, Malate; s/d from US$200/220; nais) Jap-
Sing
Makati
Upscale Makati is home to most of Manilas
five-star hotels. But there are also good
midrange choices, some near the action of
Ayala Center, others up near the somewhat
sleazy streets around P Burgos St.
tos
0.1 miles
To Robelle
House (100m)
Quin
100 m
P Burgos St
sleek steel-and-glass tower, the Pan Pacific

features all the usual luxuries plus a computer in each room and British-trained butler
service. The staff have panache; bellboys
regularly break into dance and song.
Manila Diamond Hotel (Map pp80-1; %526 3000;
nca
.panpacific.com; cnr M Adriatico St & General M Malvar St,

Malate; s/d from US$230/310; nais) In a
ma
The best places here have good views of the

city and the bay.
Pan Pacific Hotel (Map p90; %536 0788; www
.manilapavilion.com.ph; cnr United Nations Ave & Maria Y Orosa

St, Ermita; r from US$60; nas) The Holiday Inn
has been reborn as this slightly more stylish version of its former self. Theres Asian
design cues scattered about, but underneath
this is still a huge international hotel with 567
rooms. Popular with tour groups; many lose
their spare change at the Casino Filipino.
0
0
MAKATI AVENUE & P BURGOS STREET
Sala
TOP END
minimalist motif. The casino is the largest

in the Philippines.
Manila Pavilion (Map pp80-1; %526 1212; www
t
ris S
Gate
Pola
right across from Ayala Center. The rooms

are fairly unadorned but have all the comforts you might expect, including cable TV.
There is a rooftop pool and sundeck.
AIM Conference Center (Map pp86-7; % 867
4033; www.accm.aim.edu.ph; Benavidez St; r from P1800;
ais) Great value, this high-rise hotel is
part of the Asian Institute of Management.

Rooms are small but comfortable and have
good bathrooms and broadband Internet.
Amenities arent lavish but staff are friendly,
and if you need an intern the lobby is often
filled with MBA students collaborating on
case studies. Long-term rates available.
City Garden Hotel (Map p93; %899 1111; www.city
gardenhotels.com; 7870 Makati Ave; s/d from P2200/2400;
ais) This large place has 160 comfort-
able rooms spread out over 21 floors. Its got

a rather slick style and its own health club.
The pool is on the roof; views are great.
Tower Inn (Map pp86-7; %888 5170; www.towerinn
.com.ph; 1002 A Arnaiz Ave; s/d from P1800/2400; ai) A
modern and well-run place right across from
Ayala Center, the Tower Inn has 48 rooms
of varying luxury, but all are clean and well
furnished. Theres a rooftop whirlpool where
you can let the days cares bubble away.
Best Western Astor Hotel (Map p93; %750 7564;
www.bestwestern.com; 7835 Makati Ave; r from P3000;
ai) This new place is very attractive and
has good service thats the good news.

The bad news is that this stretch of Makati
Ave is a bit trashy. This is a good choice for
business travellers on a budget.
MANILA
MANILA
Makati Avenue & P Burgos Street
blue at this little charmer, due not to your

mood but to the deeply azure-tinted windows. Several old trees out front add a leafy
charm not often found in Ermita. Rates include a good breakfast.
Sunette Tower (Map p93; %897 1804; www.sunette

.com.ph; Durban St off Makati Ave; r from P2000; ai)
A condominium with a variety of 83 studios and apartments, all with kitchenettes.
Rooms have broadband Internet and if
you dont want to dirty your hands in the
kitchen, you can arrange for a cook. Longstay rates are available.
Oxford Suites (Map p93; %632 6700; www.oxford
suitesmakati.com; cnr Durban St & P Burgos St; r from US$50;
a) This is an oasis of calm in the midst of
seedy P Burgos St. The 147 rooms are spread

over 27 floors. Service is very good and theres
an in-house gym and business centre.
El Cielito Inn (Map pp86-7; %815 8951; www.elcielito
inn.com; 804 A Arnaiz Ave; s/d from P1240/1500; a)
This simple workmanlike 60-room hotel is

close to Ayala Center. Deluxe rooms feature
fridges and extra room. The coffee shop is
popular.
Citadel Inn (Map p93; %897 2370; www.citadel
-inn-makati.com; 5007 P Burgos St; r from P1950; as)
This newish place is a sign that P Burgos

St is gentrifying fast. Theres a nice atrium
pool. Part condo, many of the 118 rooms
here are actually small apartments.
Regines Hotel (Map p93; %897 3888; www.regines
hotel.com; 8429 Kalayaan Ave; studios daily/monthly
P2200/45,000, 1-bedroom ste P3600/75,000; a) This
simple place is good for long-term stayers

on a budget. You can usually get a discount
on the published rates. The apartments
arent posh but are comfortable and popular with families.
Great Eastern Hotel (Map p93; % 898 2888;
www.greateasternhotelmanila.com; 7842 Makati Ave;
s/d/tw from P1399/1599/1699; as) This flashy
high-rise has 75 nicely appointed rooms

spread across five floors. Amenities include
a health club and several restaurants. The
pool is indoors on the 10th floor. If you get
bored you can go for a joyride in the glasswalled elevator.
Fersal Inn (Map p93; %897 9123; 107 Neptune St; r
P1680; a) The 33 rooms here are rather simple, although theyre clean and comfortable.
The outside is not promising but the staff
are friendly and the low rates keep customers coming back (some taking advantage of
the partial day rates).
TOP END
Manilas finest hotels are located in close

proximity to each other in Makati. Theres
a decent rivalry between them and you can
often secure rates well below those published. Each of these hotels is a destination
in itself and all have cafs, restaurants and
bars popular with well-heeled locals.
Peninsula Manila (Map pp86-7; %810 3456; www
The lobby, with its well-known coffee shop, is

the setting for a pivotal scene in the seminal
Manila novel Dogeaters (see p42).
Oakwood Premier (Map pp86-7; % 729 8888;
an 18-hole putting green and tennis courts

heighten the feeling of being in a resort.
Rooms are quite comfortable.
Century Park Hotel (Map p84; %528 8888; www
.peninsula.com; cnr Ayala Ave & Makati Ave; r from US$280;

nais) A Makati veteran, the Penin-
www.oakwood.com; Glorietta 4, Ayala Center; studios

from US$200, 1-/2-/3-bedroom ste from US$250/310/415;
ais) This is pure corporate territory
.centurypark.com; 599 P Ocampo Sr St, Malate; r from

$200; nais) An All Nippon Airways
sula has aged gracefully thanks to frequent

facelifts. The caf in the soaring lobby is
a destination for many local movers and
shakers. The 498 rooms boast every luxury
from marble bathrooms to many electronic
gadgets.
Makati Shangri-La (Map pp86-7; %813 8888; www
and has been the first home in Manila for

many expat professionals. The plush apartments in the twin towers come with 24-hour
concierge, daily maid service, health club,
tennis courts, business centre and more. A
side note: this is the place rogue elements of
the army threatened to blow up in 2003.
.shangri-la.com; cnr Ayala Ave & Makati Ave; r from US$260;

nais) With a commanding position
Pasay
at this busy corner, the Shangri-La shelters its

guests from the noise with compact but lush
grounds. The public spaces bustle with comings and goings; the lobby caf and various
bars are quite popular. The 699 rooms are
roomy and posh. Conways Bar (see p103) is
a favourite place to hear cover bands.
Mandarin Oriental Manila (Map pp86-7; %750
Hotels here that are close to Malate are good

choices as they are not too isolated. The
Westin is an exception, it succeeds because
of its isolation. Beware of properties going
south towards Baclaran and the airports;
some are set along dusty, charmless streets.
8888; www.mandarinoriental.com; cnr Makati Ave & Paseo

de Roxas; r from US$280; nais) The 371
Orchid Garden Suites (Map p84; % 523 9870;
rooms here have an eclectic dcor right

out of Architectural Digest. Service reaches
legendary levels and most demands can be
accommodated. There are almost a dozen
top-flight cafs and restaurants.
Dusit Hotel Nikko (Map pp86-7; %867 3333; www
.dusit.com; cnr EDSA & A Arnaiz Ave, Ayala Center; r from
P4500; nais) These 542 well-appointed
rooms are in one of the first five-star hotels

to locate in Makati. Not overly elegant, the
rates reflect its slightly more humble pretensions. The Ayala Centers delights are
mere steps away.
New World Renaissance Hotel (Map pp86-7;
%811 6888; www.renaissancehotels.com; cnr Esperanza St
& Makati Ave, Ayala Center; r from US$250; nais)
Part of the vast Marriott family, this Ayala

Center high-rise has 598 rooms. Such is the
scale that the public spaces feel a bit like an
office building. Its a good place for business and meetings. Rooms on high floors
have sweeping views.
Hotel InterContinental Manila (Map pp86-7; %815
9711; www.intercontinental.com; 1 Ayala Ave, Ayala Center; r
from US$140; nais) One of Manilas old-
est luxury hotels, the architecture recalls a

time when windows were best kept small lest
political upheaval break them. Theres a large
but slightly barren pool area and gardens.
MIDRANGE
orchid@mydestiny.net; 620 P Ocampo Sr St, Malate; s/d

from US$55/60; as) An excellent and elegant
choice thats also convenient to Malate.

Guests stay in a modern tower block which
has 89 very comfortable rooms, some with
balconies. The lobby, bar and restaurant
are located in a 1930s mansion designed by
Pablo Antonio Sr. One of the highlights of
staying here is breakfast on the terrace with
a breeze blowing in from Manila Bay.
Copacabana Apartment-Hotel (Map p84; %831
8711; www.copasuites.com; 264 EDSA Extension; studio/
apt from US$36/49; ais) Convenient for
the airports and EDSA, the units here vary

from studios to three-bedroom apartments.
There are balconies and delightful staff,
which make up for the somewhat bleak locale. Monthly rates yield 40% savings over
the daily rates.
TOP END
Westin Philippine Plaza (Map p84; %551 5555;

www.westin.com/manila; CCP Complex, Roxas Blvd; r from
US$180; nais) Located right beside
Manila Bay, the Westin is one of the successes of Imeldas CCP orgy: its still standing and it remains popular. A refit in 2005
has given it new public spaces and even
locals drop by for the dreamy sunsets over
the bay. A lagoon-shaped swimming pool,
(ANA) hotel with well-maintained rooms,

courteous service and a full range of amenities such as wi-fi. The Top of the Century
piano bar on the 19th floor offers stunning views of Manila Bay. Theres balconies
overlooking a verdant pool area.
Traders Hotel Manila (Map p84; %523 7011; www
.shangri-la.com; 3001 Roxas Blvd; s/d from US$110/120;
nais) Run by Shangri-La Hotels,
this large property with 219 rooms straddles Malate and Pasay. The hotel is popular
with Japanese business travellers and boasts
a high level of service and a front-row view
of the CCP.
Quezon City
This area is removed from more central
parts of Manila such as Makati and Malate,
but it has a neighbourhood feel and there is
a thriving nightlife.
MIDRANGE
New Camelot Hotel (Map p88; % 373 2101;

cameloth@edsamail.com.ph; 35 Mother Ignacia Ave; r
P1300-1800; a) Easily the most incongruous
hotel in Manila, this faux Ye Olde England
place is all Knights of the Round Table. If
they just could add a dose of Monty Pythons Spamalot theyd be on to something.
The 127 rooms feature fake suits of armour
and the like this is the place to indulge
your Lancelot fantasies.
Imperial Palace Suites (Map p88; %411 0116;
www.imperial.ph; cnr Timog Ave & T Morato Ave; r US$70,
ste from US$80; ais) Now part of French
behemoth Accor, the Imperial offers 130

studios and suites with kitchenettes. There
is a gym and rooftop pool; the hotel is close
to Quezon Citys nightlife.
Rembrandt Hotel (Map p88; %373 3333; www
.hotelrembrandt.com.ph; 26 T Morato Ave; r P2300-2700;
a) This is a good choice if you have busi-
ness in the area. The heavy drapes and blankets would have done right by the hotels
namesake during a dreary Dutch winter;
you may just wish to turn up the air-con.
Sulo Hotel (Map p88; %924 5051; www.sulohotel
.com.ph; Matalino St; s/d from P1800/2200; as) A
business hotel with excellent service near
MANILA
MANILA
Intramuros
Binondo & Santa Cruz

These old neighbourhoods across the river
from Intramuros are home to Chinatown
and several large markets. The whole area
is made for wandering and stopping at will
for sustenance.
Legend Hotel (Map pp72-3; %633 1501; www.angel
Theres a few good choices here but fewer

than you would think. To go really casual,
look for the open-air barbecue places (Map p76;
Santa Lucia St; meals from P50; hafter dusk) near the
Baluarte de Santa Lucia.
Ilustrado (Map p76; %527 3674; 744 General Luna
St; mains P300-1000; a) Set in a reconstructed
Spanish-era house, it has a popular coffee
shop which is open through the day and a
more formal dining area (open for lunch
and dinner). The Spanish and Filipino food
at both is elaborately prepared; specialities
include pork chops in a spicy sauce.
Barbaras (Map p76; %527 3893; Plaza San Luis
fire.com/id/legend1/welcome.html; cnr Pioneer St & Madison St, Mandaluyong City; r P2200-3400; ais)
Complex, General Luna St; meals P250-600; hlunch & dinner Mon-Sat; a) Here diners sit under a huge
Offers 117 spacious, comfortable rooms in

a complex of three-storey buildings. Next
to the reception area is a compact pool surrounded by tropical plants. Rates are inclusive of buffet breakfast. There are Jacuzzi
baths in the deluxe rooms.
crystal chandelier in a room that looks like

a 19th-century European salon; its regal
but a bit stuffy. The food is a traditional
combination of Spanish and Filipino. The
lunch buffet is popular.
Ledans Cafe (Map p76; %523 3128; Chamber 12, Mu-
Quezon City Hall and the corner of East Ave.

The 68 rooms are set back from the tree-lined
street. There are discounts for long stays.
Ortigas Center
With its dense concentration of shopping
malls and high-rises, Ortigas Center (which
sits on the border of Quezon City, Mandaluyong and Pasig) has become Manilas
second-biggest business and commercial
hub. However, its still got a lot of work to
do to find its soul.
MIDRANGE
RESTAURANTS
President Restaurant (Map p82; %244 7235; 746-750

Ongpin St, Santa Cruz; mains P120-600 h10am-11pm;
a) The President holds the distinction of
being the oldest restaurant in Chinatown.
Gather a group of 12 people and come here
for a lauriat (banquet). They start at P6000.
Otherwise you can order off the typically
ginormous menu. Birthday parties abound.
Mandarine Palace (Map p82; %736 5767; 789-793
Ongpin St, Santa Cruz; meals P150-600; h6am-10pm;
a) One of the big restaurants in China-
town, it specialises in seafood dinners,

as you might infer from the tanks of fish
swimming at the door. A bit stark, but the
lunch buffets are popular.
ralla St; meals P100-300; h10am-midnight Mon-Fri; a)
Edsa Shangri-La Hotel (Map pp72-3; %633 8888;
Built into the side of the walls, this simple

coffee place has good local food and drinks.
www.shangri-la.com; 1 Gardenway, Mandaluyong City; r

from US$180; nais) The 658 rooms here
Rizal Park
TOP END
have a simple elegance. Spread out over two

high-rises, many overlook the hotels extensive gardens. Service is excellent and the
Shangri-La is the areas business hub.
EATING
The range of food options in Manila befits a
huge city. You can truly get anything. Quality at the best places is superb and prices are
relatively low, even at exclusive establishments aimed at the well heeled.
Neighbourhoods most likely to yield a
great meal include Malate, Makati and Quezon City. But you can find good places all
over and its worth seeking out good restaurants in Intramuros, Ermita, Chinatown
and elsewhere.
If you just want a snack theres the whole
crowd of fast-food options led by the ubiquitous Jollibee, but you can usually find a
locally owned option close by. Markets, too,
especially in the older parts of town, can
yield all sorts of unpolished wonders.
Most restaurants have some tables in
air-con dining rooms while others will be
open-air. Casual wear is the order of the
day everywhere.
A string of waterfront restaurants serve up

fresh fish from holding tanks. The breezes
can be delightful on sweltering days, but
just check the wind direction as sometimes
it sends the bays insalubrious flotsam into
malodorous piles along the piers.
Harbor View (Map pp80-1; %524 1532; South Blvd;
dishes from P150; h11am-midnight) Hard to beat
for its combination of hearty Filipino fare
and laid-back ambience. The restaurant is
actually on a jetty, but youll be under the
illusion youre out cruising on the bay. This
place has the best trash-free location.
Seafood Wharf (Map pp80-1; %400 5066; South
Blvd; meals P200-600) The cooks here will prepare whatever selection you make from the
fresh seafood on display. Hostesses helpfully
point out that the offerings dont come from
the bay. Sunday breakfast buffets (P200)
lure in expat throngs. The complex also has
an impressive swimming pool (see p87).
Pantalan Maynila (Map pp80-1; %400 4371; South
Blvd; mains P300-600) Locally a favourite, the
menu is as long as the ocean is deep. The
seafood is pretty reasonable (ask for lots of
garlic) except for that huge lobster in the
corner; hell set you back P3000.
CAFS
These teahouses range from the traditional

to modern.
Hap Chan (Map p82; %733 3710; 649 T Mapua St,
Santa Cruz; dishes P100-200; h6am-3am; a) One
of the more popular teahouses, it specialises
in hotpot dishes, but also serves dim sum,
noodles and rice dishes. Its small, clean
and unadorned.
MXT (Map p82; %734 4193; 965 Ongpin St, Binondo;
dishes P25-100; a) Offers mami (noodles in
soup), its specialty siopao (steamed dumplings with meat filling) and various dim
sum for very low prices. A window lets you
buy from the pavement.
President Tea House (Map p82; %243 9079; 809813 Salazar St, Santa Cruz; dishes P50-200; a) No relation to President Restaurant, this place
is boldly decorated and is as neat as a redand-white pin. The dim sum is great and
theres much more on the menu.
QUICK EATS
Ling Nam Noodle Factory and Wonton Parlor (Map

p82; %733 5231; 616 Alonzo St, Santa Cruz; meals P100;
a) The name alone should tell you that the
noodles are fresh here. Pots steam like mad,

air conditioners roar and happy patrons lap
up tasty and simple fare.
Tasty Dumplings (Map p82; %244 8654; 960 Masangkay St, Binondo; meals P50-80; h10am-9pm; a)
MA N I L A E a t i n g 97
The name says it all at this modern little

place. The meatball soup is excellent.
Happy Veggie (Map p82; %245 9257; 958 Masangkay St, Binondo; meals P50-150; h10am-8pm; a)
The interior here is as brightly coloured as

a ripe melon. Like so many local places,
the name leaves little doubt as to whats on
offer here. Many items have more appealing
names than the Fungus & Ball Soup.
SELF-CATERING
The many markets in the area (see p107)

are good places to grab a snack. Off Quintin Paredes St in Binondo is a small alley
Carvajal St (Map p82) lined on both sides
with stalls piled with fruits, sweets and
freshly roasted chestnuts.
Salazar Bakery (Map p82; %733 1392; 783 Ongpin
St, Santa Cruz; rolls from P20; h6am-9pm; a) This
immaculate store is redolent with the smell
of freshly baked treats. All manner of filled
rolls are sold individually wrapped and
ready to go.
MB Bakery (Map p82; cnr Clavel St & Madrid St, San
Nicolas) An ancient bakery still selling treats
and bread to the neighbourhood. Come
during daylight hours.
Ermita & Malate

The variety here is enormous, with all kinds
of food for all kinds of budgets. The streets
in and around J Nakpil St are popular at
all hours and some of Manilas best places
can be found here. Unlike other parts of
Ermita and Malate, the pavement here is in
top repair and theres almost a genteel feel
at night. Remedios Circle is funkier and has
many places good for sitting outside and
absorbing the action.
RESTAURANTS
Filipino
Aristocrat (Map pp80-1; %524 7671; cnr Roxas Blvd

& San Andres St, Malate; meals P150-400; h24hr; a)
First opened in 1936, this institution has

served Filipino food at reasonable prices
to several generations of customers. It feels
like a huge, brightly lit coffee shop, and its
hugely popular (just to stay thematic, the
menu is huge too).
Cafe Adriatico Premiere (Map p90; %525 2509;
1790 M Adriatico St, Malate; meals P200-400; h24hr; a)
A good place for a snack or a meal, the small

tables here have views of the action on Remedios Circle. Serves a wide array of Filipino
MANILA
MANILA
96 MA N I L A E a t i n g
and Spanish dishes in a converted old house

done up in traditional Filipino style.
Bistro Remedios (Map p90; %523 9153; M Adriatico
St, Malate; hlunch & dinner; a) Country specialities from Pampanga province, which is
renowned for its barbecued meats such as
spare ribs, star here. If you like it rich, try
some bulalo, chunks of tender beef shank
and marrow in a steaming hot broth.
Zamboanga Restaurant (Map p90; %525 8828;
1619 M Adriatico St, Malate; most dishes P200-500;
h10am-11pm; a) Sup on a variety of spicy
Zamboangan seafood dishes (try the crab)

then enjoy a dinner show of traditional Filipino dance at 8.30pm nightly.
Asian
Sea Food Market (Map p90; %521 6766; 1190 J Bocobo St, Ermita; meals from P400; hlunch & dinner; a)
Probably the best-known seafood place in

town. You select the raw ingredients from
an iced-down counter or a fish tank, after
which a team of chefs will cook your meal
in the flaming wokfilled kitchen (a show
in itself, especially from the pavement in
front).
Kashmir (Map p90; %523 1521; P Faura St, Ermita;
meals P200-400; h11am-11pm; a) The dining
room is appealing from the moment you
enter, with a rich mix of dcor that reflects
the menu which travels from Malaysia to
India. The roti melt in your mouth and the
curries fire up the tastebuds.
Korean Palace (Map p90; %521 6695; cnr M Adriatico St & Remedios St, Malate; meal P200-500; h10am1.30am; a) Still the best Korean restaurant
in town, as shown by its popularity with the

local Korean expat community. The simple
interior is abuzz with gossip and feasting.
Cafe Nakpil (Map p90; %524 1093; 644 J Nakpil St,
Malate; mains P250-400; h6pm-2am Mon-Sat; a) A
cascade of paper lanterns draws you in from
the street to this stylish little Asian bistro.
The curries are excellent, with fragrant Thai
spices enlivening the atmosphere. Pavement tables are the pick and smooth jazz
sets the mood.
Korean Village (Map p90; %524 4958; 1783 M
window are the draw at this smart little

place. The dcor is as bright and sparkly
as the service. There are 20 kinds of fresh
noodle soups plus much more, including
free wi-fi.
Sala Thai (Map pp80-1; %522 4694; 870 J Nakpil St,
Malate; meals P100-150; hlunch & dinner Mon-Sat; a)
One of the oldest Thai restaurants in Manila, its as faded as the sign out front. But
the flavours arent faded; recall a time when
beer came in a can and you were happy it
was cold.
Western
Sala (Map p90; %524 6770; 610 J Nakpil St, Malate; meals
from P1300; hlunch & dinner; a) One of Manilas
finest restaurants, Sala is a refined European bistro. The dcor is done in shades of
green and cream, the perfect backdrop for
the flattering lights. The changing menu
features fusion dishes with an emphasis on
simple mains seasoned creatively with organic herbs. Sunday brunch features Eggs
Benedict and other treats.
Patio Guernica (Map p90; %521 4415; cnr J Bocobo
St & Remedios Circle, Malate; meals P200-400; hlunch &
dinner; a) A long-established Spanish eat-
ery that specialises in Iberian dishes such

as paella. Although patrons are casual in
attire, the place is nicely dressed in beige
tablecloths and dark woods.
Bravo! (Map p90; %303 3508; cnr J Nakpil St & M
Adriatico St, Malate; mains P250-500; hnoon-midnight
Sun-Thu, noon-2.30am Fri & Sat; a) Theres a touch
of stylish Milan at this bustling place, which

has nice pavement tables surrounded by
plants. The menu of pasta and pizza is long
and authentic. Many deli items are available
for takeaway.
Komiks Cafe (Map p90; %526 2547; cnr J Nakpil St
& Maria Y Orosa St, Malate; mains P200-300; h6pm-6am;
a) Part of a trendy tribe of places that
includes the infamous Bed (see p104), this

cute caf lives up to its name with murals of
Filipino comic characters leaping from the
walls. The food is excellent, especially the
house specialty, chicken with mango.
Cafe Havana (Map p90; %521 8097; cnr M Adriatico
Adriatico St, Malate; meals from P200; hlunch & dinner; a) This place is huge, but the service
St & Remedios St, Malate; mains P200-300; h11am-3am;

a) Conjure the illusion that youre in Ha-
is friendly, the beer is cheap, and the beef

barbecue meal hits the spot.
Mey Lin (Map p90; %450 0262; 1717 Adriatico St,
vana just before the citys fall to Castro.

You can opt to have an all-Cuban evening
starting with Cuba Libre and ending with a
Cuban Cohiba Esplendido cigar, with some
Arroz a la Cubana in between. Its busy
Malate; mains P100-200; hlunch & dinner; ia)
Hand-pulled noodles prepared in the front
serving local partiers until late and many

revitalize with the good fresh fruit drinks.
Casa Armas (Map p90; %523 0189; J Nakpil St,
Malate; meals P300-600; h11am-2am Mon-Sat, 6pmmidnight Sun; a) This spot has built a dedi-
cated following since it opened more than

a decade ago. Theres a long tapas menu
and the bar is popular for a relaxing rioja.
Theres very much the atmospheric feel of
a bodega here.
Ciboney (Map p90; %450 1178; Remedios Circle;
mains P200-400; h5pm-3am; a) Named in honour of Cubas Ciboney tribe, this place has
colourful cocktails, danceable live music
and an exotic menu of snacks and mains.
Infectiously happy, it has Caribbean ambience and tables on a veranda overlooking
Remedios Circle.
CAFS
604 Cafe Gallery (Map p90; %303 7355; 604 Remedios

St, Malate; snacks P50-100; h6pm-2am Tue-Sat; a) A
funky place right off the circle, with pillows
on the floor and local art on the walls.
Demitasse Cafe Bar (Map p90; %400 6415; 548
Remedios St, Malate; snacks P50-100; h5pm-3am) Another funky caf off Remedios Circle, Demitasse has lots of shady tables in front and
plenty more in the long, cool, dark interior.
Sidebar (Map p90; %523 2063; 1771 Adriatico St;
snacks P50-150; h4pm-midnight; a) Overlooking
a strip of bars, Sidebar is a good place for a
drink or a snack while you strategize your
night. Tables outside are separated from the
hustle by a row of sturdy palms.
QUICK EATS
Robinsons Place (p108) has the usual enormous food court littered with fast-food
choices as well as family-run outlets.
Shwarma Snack Center (Map p90; %525 4541;
485 R Salas St, Ermita; meals P50-150; h24hr) This
simple open-air Middle Eastern place could
be an MBA case study: a sign proclaims It
takes months to find a customer; seconds
to lose one. And they surely havent lost
any as the food is fresh and tasty and the
surroundings spotless.
Kink Cakes (Map p90; %404 1693; cnr Pedro Gil St
& M Adriatico St, Malate; cakes from P100; h10am-6pm
Mon-Sat; a) Eat in or out at this home to
anatomically correct treats. An eight-inch

penis cake will set you back a stiff P850.
More diminutive treats are available for onsite consumption.
Farmacia Fatima (Map pp80-1; %524 4705; 1428

Taft Ave, Ermita; meals P50-100; h6am-9pm) Amid
a row of open-air pharmacies, this classic
soda fountain is ready to serve everything
from a whole fried fish to a tasty halu-hal
(flamboyant fruit dessert).
SELF-CATERING
Bravo! (opposite) has Italian deli items for

take-away. There are large supermarkets in
Robinsons Place (p108).
Makati
You are only limited by your ability to
choose when you eat in Makati. Theres
something for every budget and taste. In
fact the restaurants in the Greenbelt 2 and
3 shopping malls (p108) are among the best
and most popular in Manila. On any night,
hordes of people stroll past the many fine
restaurants on various levels pondering
which one to select. Its a fun scene.
The up-and-coming Fort Bonifacio area
(aka The Fort), technically part of Taguig
but really an extension of Makati, is also
becoming a culinary hot spot. There are
numerous good restaurants in The Fort.
Almost every place in Makati, especially
those in Greenbelt, has both air-con dining
rooms and large outdoor patios that are
perfect for people-watching.
RESTAURANTS
Filipino
Sentro 1771 (Map pp86-7; %757 3940; level 2, Greenbelt 3, Ayala Center; meals from P300; hlunch & dinner;
a) This is the best place in Makati for local
food. The setting is upscale but the food
remains true to its roots. Dishes are served
with flair and among the many winners are
the garlicky adobo with chunks of meat that
are both crispy and meltingly tender. Sit
outside and enjoy the passing parade.
Masas (Map pp86-7; %757 4030; ground level, Greenbelt 2, Ayala Center; meals P300-600; h11am-midnight
Sun-Thu, 11am-3am Fri & Sat; a) A high-concept
version of local food is served in this trendy

spot. Look for elaborate dishes like the seared
tuna belly. The patio is often mobbed.
Dads (Map pp86-7; %892 8898; level 2, Glorietta 3,
Ayala Center; meals P200-500; hlunch & dinner; a) At
noon on weekdays nearby offices empty out
and crowds descend here for whats dubbed
the ultimate buffet. It is vast, and pretty
much every Filipino dish you can think
MANILA
MANILA
of then some is on offer. And its not just

steam-table classics; the salads, fresh fruit
and desserts are yummy.
Asian
Zen (Map pp86-7; %892 6851; ground level, Glorietta
3, Ayala Center; mains P200-300; h11am-11pm; a)
Theres a lively energy laid over traditional

Japanese dcor at this hip and popular
place. The sashimi, sushi and curries are
popularly priced.
Benjarong Royal Thai Restaurant (Map pp86-7;
%867 3333; cnr EDSA & A Arnaiz Ave, Ayala Center; meals
from P600; hlunch & dinner; a) Manilas best Thai
restaurant is hidden away on the second level

of the Dusit Hotel Nikko. The dining room
is elegant, befitting the royal moniker. The
cuisine is both lavish and inventive.
Tiananmen (Map p93; %897 1992; cnr Dapo St &
Makati Ave; meals P300; h5pm-3am; a) The Chinese food here is spicy; that may be your
primary sense of it, as the surroundings are
moodily dark in this hip little restaurantcum-bar. Infidels will find a few pizzas and
local dishes bringing up the rear of the menu.
Drinks are predictably good and varied.
Banana Leaf Curry House (Map pp86-7; %812
8618; ground level, The Plaza, Greenbelt, Ayala Center; meals
P300-500; h11am-3pm & 6-10pm; a) This long-
running Makati veteran has an attractive

dining room overlooking Greenbelt Park.
The flavours are both subtle and complex.
The curries are much loved as are the many
spicy crab dishes.
THE AUTHORS CHOICE
Peoples Palace (Map pp86-7; % 729 2888;
ground level, Greenbelt 3, Ayala Center; meals
from P400; hlunch & dinner; a) When this
popular Thai restaurant moved from Malate
to Makati it signalled the shift in the balance between the two popular entertainment areas. Dishes here are sprightly and
the emphasis is on form over function; the
design inside and out is high concept. But
the real pleasure here is sitting at one of
the terrace tables outside and letting the
Greenbelt parade pass you by. The trees
of the park are at your back, in front is a
great scene of people out to see and be
seen, to find some fun, make a connection
or just enjoy who theyre with. Its Filipinos
in their element.
Ziggurat (Map p93; %897 5179; just off Makati Ave;

meals from P200; h24hr) Half open-air restaurant, half pillow-covered bazaar, Ziggurat
takes its inspirations from India, the Middle East and Africa. Outside you can enjoy a
hookah in a setting that manages to slightly
evoke a desert tent somewhere. The menu is
long and includes kebabs, chutneys, curries
and Moroccan tajines.
and includes tapas, paella and a long list of

steaks. Theres a good, small deli.
Gaudi (Map pp86-7; %757 2710; level 4, Greenbelt
3, Ayala Center; meals P300-600; h lunch & dinner;
a) The sinuous style of the eponymous
Western
Barcelona architect is much on display at

this dramatic Spanish restaurant, which enjoys sweeping views of the Makati skyline.
The menu is authentic and features paella,
grilled meats and tapas.
Rastro (Map pp72-3; %898 0957; ground level, Power
Gourmand (Map pp72-3; %815 8801; G/F Net One

Center; mains P400; hdinner) The most notable
Plant Mall, Rockwell Center; dishes P150-300; hlunch &

dinner) A star among the Rockwell Center
place to eat in The Fort, this is a delectable

little French bistro with a menu of classics
like steak frites.
Nuvo (Map pp86-7; %757 3699; ground level, Green-
restaurant row, this tapas place has a long

list of plates to choose from. Theres a rich
interior that opens onto a nice patio. Over
it all is a good mix of jazz.
Dome (Map pp86-7; %813 6672; Dela Rosa St; meals
P200-300; a) A French bistro in a part of
town thats not blessed by many restaurants, Dome has good breakfasts, sandwiches and salads served through the day
as well as pasta and pizza.
Grappas (Map pp86-7; %499 6976; 215 Nicanor
Garcia St; mains P300-600; a) In a neighbourhood of interior-design shops, Grappas is
a huge place with a menu of Italian classics
to match. The wood-fired pizzas are tops as
are the many pastas. Its high ceiling helps
disperse the noise from the many families
who flock here. The short breakfast menu
will get you started as well.
Schwarzwlder German Restaurant (Map pp86-7;
belt 2, Ayala Center; meals P500-1000; hlunch & dinner;

a) An attractive curved bar welcomes you
to this temple of modern fusion cuisine.

One of Manilas best restaurants, Nuvo emphasises seafood on its changing menu that
melds east and west. Stuffiness is kept at bay
by whimsical touches amid the elegance.
Il Ponticello (Map pp86-7; %887 7168; level 2, 121
Valero St; meals P300-500; hlunch & dinner Mon-Sat;
a) Hidden away in a nondescript office
block, this authentic Italian trattoria has

a long menu of favourites including pizza
and risotto. Its a good alternative to the
proliferating chains and theres a bit of Old
World formality about the place.
Italiannis (Map pp86-7; %728 0283; ground level,
Greenbelt 2, Ayala Center; mains P200-500; a) New
Yorkstyle Italian food stars, which means
thick tomato sauce, great meatballs and big
portions. One of the most popular places
on this popular strip of restaurants, the
staff here takes motivation seriously: group
cheers are common.
My LK (Map pp86-7; %757 4802; level 2, Greenbelt
3, Ayala Center; meals P200-500; hlunch & dinner) The
LK stands for Little Kitchen but that doesnt
stop chef Melissa Sison from creating some
wonderful fresh dishes such as salads and
sandwiches. The pasta menu is good and
there are many specials depending on
whats fresh. The interior is a nice study in
soothing white and green.
La Tienda (Map pp86-7; %890 4123; 43 Polaris St;
mains P200-600; hdinner Mon-Sat; a) A real find,
this authentic bodega is set back from the
street in its own little compound. The bar
is popular and many come just to savour
a fine glass of red wine. The menu is vast
%893 5179; ground level, The Atrium, Makati Ave; mains

from P200; a) Schnitzel abounds at this long-
standing German restaurant. Baked goods

are sought by European expats, and the
salad bar is popular. This is a good spot for
a real continental breakfast.
CAFS
inside or at the tables overlooking Greenbelt

Park. More substantial food includes hearty
breakfasts and good lunch sandwiches.
Caffe Ricco Renzo (Map pp86-7; %898 2542; 210
Nicanor Garcia St; meals P200-300; a) Part cultural
centre, part gallery (p106) and part caf,
this delightful place oozes charm from the
moment you walk in and hear the soothing
fountain. You wont be surprised that the
menu is eclectic; salads and sandwiches are
excellent. Theres live jazz on Friday night.
Max Brenner (Map pp86-7; %728 8801; ground
level, Greenbelt 3, Ayala Center; snacks P200; a) This
jazzy outlet of the revered chain of chocolate shops has all the rich drinks and treats
youd expect. Theres also a small menu of
breakfast items and heartier fare served
through the day.
Confusion (Map pp86-7; %887 5203; cnr Alfaro St &
Sedeo St; snacks P200; hnoon-9pm; a) Finding
this little place tucked into an area of residential high-rises may well have been the names
inspiration. Enjoy a drink at the tables inside
or out. Theres a short menu of snacks and
meals, the most notable of which are the superb cheese sticks, redolent with garlic.
Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf (Map pp86-7; %757 6002;
ground level, Greenbelt 3, Ayala Center; drinks P50-100;
ia) Part of the chain found through-
out town, this is a better choice than the

chain whose name rhymes with sucks.
Its a smart setting inside and out, and the
drinks are many and varied. Good iced tea
and free wi-fi.
Cafe Via Mare (Map pp72-3; %898 1305; ground
level, Power Plant Mall, Rockwell Center; meals from P200;
a) You can get a snack or a meal at this
trendy little spot on a busy corner of the

Rockwell Center. The coffee is authentically
Italian while the dishes are an upscale mix
of Filipino standards.
Lumiere (Map pp86-7; %812 2976; A Locsin Bldg, cnr

Makati Ave & Ayala Ave; snacks from P100; h11am-10pm
Tue-Sun; ai) Lumiere is luminescent in
sashes of white and is a little refuge away

from the Makati hustle. Popular with local
artists and creative types, it is a good place
to while away a few hours lost in thought
or discussion.
Museum Cafe (Map pp86-7; %757 3000; Ayala
Museum, Greenbelt 4, Ayala Center; dishes P200-300; a)
Enter the pages of Vogue at this light-as-afeather caf across from the Ayala Museum.
The nibbles are sublime and drinks come
with fresh veggies and spicy dips. Be beautiful
QUICK EATS
Makati is home to every sort of fast-food

place imaginable. In the malls, the centres
of Glorietta and Greenbelt 1 (see p108)
have the greatest variety. Up near Makati
Ave and P Burgos St are a bunch of little
places that are not part of any chains.
North Park Noodles (Map p93; %896 3475; 1200
Makati Ave; meals P110-220; h9am-midnight Sun-Thu,
24hr Fri & Sat; a) Get what some consider
to be the best bowl of Chinese noodles in

town. Its a sleek little place with a minimalist stainless-steel style.
MANILA
MANILA
Eat (Map pp86-7; level 3, RCBC Plaza, cnr Ayala Ave &
Sen Gil Puyat Ave; hlunch Mon-Fri; a) The name is
helpful to workers at the surrounding banks
who, dazed by a morning of spreadsheets,
turn up at lunch and dont know what to
do. This vast circular food court features
a myriad of stalls serving fresh and cheap
fare. You pay as you exit.
SELF-CATERING
There are large supermarkets in the shopping malls. Biggest by far is the SM Department
Store (Map pp86-7; %810 7677; Ayala Center) between
Glorietta Mall and the Ayala MRT station.
Smaller but useful is Rustans Supermarket (Map
pp86-7; %813 3739; Greenbelt 1, Ayala Center).
La Tienda, the Spanish restaurant (p100),
has an excellent small deli (open 10am to
10pm). Theres an organic farmers market (Map
pp86-7; hSat) in a tiny park at the corner of
Leviste St and Toledo St.
Pasay
Theres a surprising lack of restaurant options outside of the Pasay hotels in and
around the CCP. You can always try the
hotels, which each have numerous options
(see p95), or hit one of the myriad fast-food
places along Roxas Blvd or EDSA.
Figaro Coffee (Map p84; %833 7595; P Ocampo Sr
St; meals P50-150; a) This local chain has a
delightful outlet right across from the CCP.
The coffee, as usual, is good and there are
fresh sandwiches and other meals. The
building echoes the look of the CCP on a
Lilliputian scale.
Quezon City
Quezon City has great nightlife. T Morato
Ave is lined with an energetic mix of places
serving a huge variety of cuisines. Things
are a bit more relaxed here compared to the
often frantic feel of Makati.
Restaurant Uno (Map p88; % 374 0774; 195 T
Morato Ave; mains P300-600; hlunch & dinner; a)
This gem of a restaurant is slightly off the

T Morato strip, which is all for the better
as you can dine on the seductive upper balcony in relative peace. Inside, the seasonal
fusion menu is complemented by a minimalist style. Recommended.
Heaven n Eggs (Map p88; %376 2674; cnr T Morato
cost of the staff having to wear little angel

wings. The gorgeous omelettes, waffles,
sandwiches, pasta and more are served in a
soothing blue and yellow interior.
Zucchinis (Map p88; %925 0789; 66 Timog Ave;
meals from P400; hlunch & dinner; a) A small and
inviting restaurant with an open kitchen,
Zucchinis takes global inspiration although
theres always a few pastas and risottos on
the changing menu. Theres a good wine list
with choices from US$22.
My Spoon (Map p88; %929 9965; 143 Mother Ignacia Ave; mains P150-500; hlunch & dinner; a) The
soaring ceilings inside and the tables outside give My Spoon an environmental feel
that melds with the large trees out front.
Black with accents of magenta provide a
dramatic backdrop for global cuisine served
with great attention to presentation.
Red Crab (Map p88; %374 8406; 104 T Morato Ave;
mains P200-400; hlunch & dinner; a) This outlet
of the small Manila chain is all things crab,
from the crab origami decorating the stylish
dining room to the myriad of crab preparations on the menu. Theres lots of other
seafood items on the menu but you can
never go wrong with Thai chilli crab.
Gerrys Grill (Map p88; %373 9166; cnr T Morato Ave
& Scout Albano St; meals P100-250; h11am-1am; a)
This outlet of the popular local chain packs

em in with a long menu of Filipino favourites plus burgers, salads and more. Families
love the place and you can catch the odd TV
personality ducking in for a drink from the
ABS-CBN studios across the street.
Bellinis (Map p88; %913 2550; Marikina Shoe Expo,
Gen Romulo Ave, Cubao; meals P150-250; hlunch & dinner;
a) This hip little Italian caf serves good
pizzas under the watchful gaze of an eclectic

wall of fame (photos of purported customers). Its popular with local artists, many of
whom have shops in adjoining storefronts.
DRINKING
As well as the many bars in this section,
many cafs are good places to enjoy a couple of drinks. Across most of these listings,
you can assume that on at least some nights
of the week, there will be cover bands belting out their own special versions of tunes
youve heard a few times before.
Ave & Scout Rallos St; meals P120-200; h7am-1am; a)
Malate
This tasty coffee shop avoids the shtick of

the 50s American diner motif, albeit at the
The area around J Nakpil St is the centre of

Manilas new young bar scene. Due to the
fickleness of fashion, many of these bars

disappear after just one season. There are
other good choices throughout the area including a strip of places on M Adriatico St
near Remedios Circle.
Sonata (Map p90; %523 9680; Maria Y Orosa St;
h5pm-1am Mon-Thu, 5pm-4am Fri & Sat) The genteel
front bar for notorious Bed (p104), Sonata
features acoustic live music from 9pm Thursday to Saturday. You can enjoy the good
menu of snacks and pasta on the patio.
Castro at Firma (Map p90; %525 5001; 616 J Nakpil
St; h7pm-5am; a) Downstairs its a beguiling shop of Filipino arts and crafts (see
p107), upstairs the lights go low and its a
gay-friendly bar with low-slung sofas and
a long list of smooth drinks. Its a popular
haunt with the post-club crowd.
Suburbia (Map p90; %450 1685; 1718 M Adri-
MA N I L A D r i n k i n g 103
STREET FOOD
The kind of food stalls commonly found in
some Southeast Asian countries are conspicuously absent from the streets of Manila, but there are roadside carinderia, or
canteens. These basic eateries, often family
owned, display a selection of pre-cooked
dishes on a counter or in a glass case.
They usually include adobo (pork and/or
chicken cooked in vinegar, soy sauce and
garlic), sinigng (pork, fish or prawns in sour
soup) and various preparations of bangs
(milkfish, native to the Philippines). These
places are called turu-tur (literally pointpoint) as ordering is a simple case of pointing at whatever takes your fancy.
atico St; cover from P300; h7.30pm-1am Mon-Thu, until

2.30am Fri & Sat; a) This live-music venue
Ice Vodka Bar (Map pp86-7; %757 4472; level 3,

Greenbelt 3, Ayala Center; h6pm-3am; a) As the
features well-known local artists playing

acoustic and pop; its best late.
Hobbit House (Map p90; %521 7604; A Mabini St;
h5pm-3am; a) Riding on the fame of The
Lord of the Rings, this long-running folkmusic club is staffed by little people. Some
people find it a delight, others snap a lot of
photos and others find it a bit exploitative.
Anthology (Map p90; %523 4975; M Adriatico St;
h5pm-3am Mon-Sat; a) This large, multilevel place has an old prop plane sticking
out of its second story. Theres live acoustic
music nightly.
Ciboney (Map p90; %450 1178; Remedios Circle;
h5pm-3am; a) This fine place for a drink
is also a good restaurant (see p99).
LA Caf (Map pp80-1; h526 7592; M H del Pilar St;
h24hr; a) A long-running favourite with
expats looking not just for a game of pool,
but a rowdy crowd and a raunchy atmosphere. Theres lots of unattached people (at
least while they are inside the bar) and its a
good question as to who is picking up who.
Cowboy Grill (Map p90; %525 1474; cnr A Mabini St &
Arquiza St; h6pm-4am; a) This huge place fills
its two levels nightly with fans of country
and western music. Theres several bands
every night. The energy is fuelled with cheap
pitchers of beer and cheap slabs of steak.
icy image of vodka might suggest, things are

a stark black and white here. But that only
helps set off the many beautiful people who
flock in nightly.
Handlebar (Map pp86-7; %898 1976; 31 Polaris St;
hnoon-2am; a) An unusual combination of
locals and expats mingle here to the beat of
high-end cover bands. The motif is Harley
and theres pitchers of beer you can use to
wash down a steak or pour on your neighbour. Tables under the big tree in front are
leafy delights.
Heckle & Jeckle (Map pp86-7; %890 6904; Jupiter
St; h2pm-5am; a) A good, mellow bar thats
almost free of dcor. The jovial regulars, occasional stand-up comedy, live football on
TV, pool tables and delightful staff are the
real atmosphere. A good place to kick back
with a few beers.
Conways Bar (Map pp86-7; %813 8888; Makati
Makati
There are some good nightspots in Makati,
specifically at Ayala Center and north along
Polaris St.
Shangri-La, cnr Ayala Ave & Makati Ave; h5pm-midnight

Mon-Thu, 5pm-1am Fri & Sat; a) Gets packed with
yuppies, expats and all sorts of characters out

to hear top cover bands, like the self-defined
Spirit of 67. Many people book tables.
Merks Bar Bistro (Map pp86-7; %757 4720; level
3, Greenbelt 3, Ayala Center; h5pm-2am; a) This
breezy place on a terrace has good views of
the park and Makati skyline. Happy Hour
runs 5.30pm to 8.30pm and theres live
music most nights.
Sids Bar (Map pp86-7; %898 3522; 114 Jupiter
St; hnoon-2am; a) This could be a British
expat bar anywhere the world over. Cross
MANILA
MANILA
102 MA N I L A D r i n k i n g
through the shaded doors and enter a world

of pints and football. Huge-screen TVs
show matches non-stop.
Hard Rock Caf (Map pp86-7; %893 4661; Glorietta
4, Ayala Center; h11am-3am; a) Manilas own
contribution to the grievous global chain. It
has a good rep for live rock and jazz almost
every night.
Quezon City
The nearby University of the Philippines
Manila means that theres no shortage of
youthful exuberance in bars here. Besides
the places on T Morato Ave, there are
several more rowdy joints on Timog Ave.
Many would do any college spring-breaker
proud with all-you-can-drink tequila contests and the like. Think of it as a chance to
get blotto and then find out your friends
have taken mobile-phone pictures of your
shame and sent them everywhere.
Sharkys Bar & Grill (Map p88; %928 5696; 98
Timog Ave; h4pm-2am; a) Totally open air,
this one packs em in with cheap beer and
the lure of local snack fave, the chicken lollipop (a sort of Chicken McNugget with an
even less noble heritage).
Tubbataha Divers Grill (Map p88; %372 4761; 295
T Morato Ave; hnoon-2am) Have a beer and soak
up the Morato action from this open-air
throwback to a time when faux-Polynesian
style was all the rage. Theres nothing pretentious here.
ENTERTAINMENT
Thanks to the countrys free-wheeling ethos
and to the Filipinos essentially easygoing
nature, Manilas nightlife is probably the
most diverse in Southeast Asia. Finding out
whats going on will be your greatest challenge. The newspapers cover pop culture
sporadically and theres no comprehensive
listings magazine or website. Your best bet
is the free monthly pamphlet 24/7.
Nightclubs
Manila clubs span the gamut from the
hyper-trendy to the funky. The best ones
are scattered all over town, so you may need
a taxi if you want to go hopping. Cover
charges vary from nothing to as much as
P200 or more at hotspots.
Bed (Map p90; %536 3045; cnr J Nakpil St & Maria Y
Orosa St, Malate; h9pm-6am; a) This infamous
place is known for its wild gay and straight
crowds who dance with abandon till dawn.

Given the dominant colour it could be
called Red. And yes, go exploring and
youll find the eponymous furnishing
maybe occupied, maybe not.
Laffalooka (Map pp80-1; %400 7435; South Blvd,
Rizal Park; h 4pm-2am; a ) You numbskull!
With the Three Stooges as a motif, how
can you go wrong? This small club out by
the seafood restaurants near Rizal Park has
live comedy (Thursday to Saturday) as well
as jazz, R&B and acoustic. Its a friendly
place with a delightful staff.
Library (Map p90; %522 2484; 1179-A M Adriatico St,
to hear local bands one step below the big

time. Styles vary from rap to rock to jazz
through the week. Sunday is devoted to
blues.
Embassy (Map pp72-3; %816 4195; The Fort En-
Makati; h7pm-2am Mon-Thu, until 4am Fri & Sat; a)
Manila has an active cultural community.

There are theatrical performances throughout the year and the choice is great: everything from Broadway musical imports
(Cats, Cats and more Cats) to cutting-edge
drama. As the nations capital, Manila is
also home to a number of premiere cultural
institutions.
At the Cultural Center of the Philippines
(see p83), Manilas major cultural guns
perform, including: Ballet Philippines (%832
3689), the nations premiere dance troupe;
Philippine Philharmonic Orchestra (%832 1125),
the nations main classical orchestra; and
Tanghaland Pilipino (%832 1620), a major theatre group that performs classic and original
local work, often in the original language.
Another important local group is Repertory Philippines (%887 0710), which performs
at the Repertory Globe Theatre (Map pp86-7;
h750 4180; Onstage, Greenbelt 1, Ayala Center).
There are numerous large venues for performances, from big-name rock concerts
to, well, Cats:
Araneta Coliseum (Map p88; %911 3101; Araneta
This tiny stand-up comedy and karaoke bar

has a very loyal following among gay and
straight nightowls. Its funky, thrilling and
eccentric all at once.
FAB (Map p90; %523 8776; 1179 M Adriatico St,
Makati; cover P250; h9pm-2am Mon-Thu, until 4am Fri
& Sat; a) The home of Manilas foam parties
is a gay-friendly place that doesnt get going

until well past midnight. There are theme
parties through the week.
V Bar (Map pp86-7; %813 6967; ground level, Glorietta 2, Ayala Center, Makati; h8pm-5am; a) Looking both dark and lush at night, this trendy
place lures in clubbers from across town.
DJs play a mix of house and R&B.
SaGuijo (Map pp86-7; %897 8629; www.saguijo.com;
7612 Guijo St, Makati; h6pm-3am; a) This is as unpretentious yet clued in as it gets in Manila.
Downstairs this music club mixes famous
music acts with an eclectic mix of new and
experimental performers. Upstairs theres a
gallery with works by local artists, many of
whom can be found hanging out right here.
70s Bar (Map pp72-3; %434 3597; 46 Anonas St,
Quirino; h8pm-2am; a) Classic rock-and-roll
is the religion at this groovy club set in an old
house. Themes include Beatles Night and
Stones Night. The classic cover band The
Jerks has been playing every Friday night for
a decade. There are vegetarian snacks.
Conspiracy (Map pp72-3; %453 2170; 59 Visayas
Ave, Quezon City; h5pm-2am; a) Owners Cynthia Alexander and Joy Ayala play folk, jazz
and various global tunes. You may wish
for something tie-dyed here as the inside is
non-smoking and the snacks are vegetarian.
The garden is a good place to chill with a
dark San Miguel.
Virgin Cafe (Map p88; %926 7982; 308 T Morato
Ave, Quezon City; h7pm-3am; a) A fabled place
tertainment Complex, Makati; cover P300; h10pm-6am

Wed, Sat & Sun; a) The Manila club scene is
fickle, but at the time of writing this club

in The Fort was enjoying an extended run
as the late-night rave den of choice for Manilas cool kids. Theres a late-night diner
inside in case you get the munchies.
Performing Arts
Center, cnr EDSA & Aurora Blvd, Cubao)
Dulaang Rajah Sulayman (Map p76; %722 6911;

Fort Santiago, Santa Clara St, Intramuros)
Star Theater (Map p84; %512 5031; Star City, CCP
Complex, Roxas Blvd, Malate)
William J Shaw Theater (Map pp72-3; %633 4821;
6th level, Shangri-La Plaza Mall, cnr EDSA & Shaw Blvd,
Mandaluyong City)
On the lowbrow side, the haunted-looking

former Manila Film Center is now being
put to good use by Amazing Philippines
Theatre (Map p84; %833 5785; admission P500-1100;
h7.30pm & 9pm), an over-the-top transvestite
revue of lovely ladies decked out in feathers and sequins.
MA N I L A E n t e r t a i n m e n t 105
Cinemas
Manila boasts hundreds of movie houses.
Many feature state-of-the-art facilities, particularly those in the upmarket malls. Hollywood blockbusters are often shown at the
same time as their US release, yet it costs only
P50 to P100 to watch a movie here. All of the
local newspapers have extensive film listings.
English-language movies are screened with
their original English dialogue.
If youre feeling more adventurous, the
Philippines has the worlds third most
prolific film industry, though most of the
films are formulaic action movies and sentimental romantic comedies. All of the mall
theatres show some local movies.
Popular choices with the latest projection
gear include Greenbelt 3 Theaters (Map pp86-7;
%893 6779; Greenbelt 3, Ayala Center) and Robinsons Movieworld (Map p90; %536 7809; Robinsons
Place, Ermita).
Karaoke
Belting out versions of ballads is a national
pastime, and you wont so much need to
find karaoke as eventually try to get away
from it. Its common in bars, cafs, stores,
buses, almost anywhere theres a person, a
microphone and a dream.
One place where you can see all the cultural forces behind karaoke in overdrive is
Red Box (Map pp86-7; %757 6188; level 3, Greenbelt
3, Ayala Center; hnoon-3am; a). Ray Charles,
Kylie and Prince are all represented on the
vast playlist at this slick place. There are
public and private spaces for you to belt out
your tunes. Entrance fees (P200 to P400)
include drinks, food and music. Even if
youre only passing by, check out the posted
lists of the most requested songs.
Casinos
Casino Filipino (Map p84; %854 1605/09; Ninoy Aquino
Ave, Paraaque City; admission P100; h24hr) Operated by a government agency in charge of
legalised gambling, this casino is located
in front of NAIA. At this huge gambling
palace, players try their luck at craps, blackjack, roulette, stud poker, bingo and so on.
This is one way to kill time if you want to
stay up all night to catch a very early morning flight, although you wont want to be
wagering your plane ticket.
Theres are branches of Casino Filipino at
various hotels, including the Manila Pavilion
MANILA
MANILA
104 MA N I L A E n t e r t a i n m e n t
in Ermita (p92). The new Hyatt Hotel and

Casino Manila (p92) in Malate says it all in
its name. Its posh casino is meant to be the
largest in the country.
Sport
COCKFIGHTING
Bloody cockfights take place at several

venues around Manila and the atmosphere
is always highly charged (for more information on this activity see the boxed text,
p44). The huge Libertad Cockpit (Map p84; Dolores
St, Pasay City; h1-5pm Sun-Wed & Fri) is close to
Malate. Sunday is the best day to visit. To
get there, take the LRT1 to Libertad station
and change to an eastbound EvangelistaLibertad jeepney.
The Roligon Cockpit (Map p84; %833 1638;
505 Quirino Ave, Tambo, Paraaque; admission P150-300;
h11am-6pm Thu-Sun) is another popular venue.
To get there, take LRT1 to Baclaran and

change to a jeepney bound for Sucat Hwy.
Tell the driver to drop you off at Roligon
Cockpit.
BASKETBALL
The Araneta Coliseum (Map p88; %911 3101; Araneta Center, cnr EDSA & Aurora Blvd, Cubao) and Cuneta
Astrodome (Map p84; %832 7000; Derham St, Pasay
City) are popular venues for professional
basketball games managed by the PBA
(Philippine Basketball Association), the
Philippines equivalent to Americas NBA.
Like football in other countries, basketball
is a national passion in the Philippines. The
professional league follows a yearly season
check with either the Araneta Coliseum
or the Cuneta Astrodome for the current
schedule of games.
SHOPPING
Manila is a bargain-hunters paradise, with
everything ranging from simple street markets to ritzy boutiques.
The largest variety of stores can be found
in Manilas many shopping malls, which also
have the advantage of being air-conditioned.
But for a real taste of Filipino life, be sure
to check out one of Manilas many excellent markets.
Clothing
You can buy authentic brand-name clothes
in Manila for a fraction of the prices charged
in Europe, Australia, Japan or the USA. Lo-
cals happily note that the designer stores

stock this years collections, so you wont
have to worry about looking like last years
sensation. Many brand names operate a
counter in department stores; some have
stores or boutiques of their own. Look for
them at Ayala Center (p108) or at Ortigas
Center (p108). If youre after authenticity,
these are the most reliable sources, but if you
dont care about authenticity, you can pick
up cheap copies in practically any market.
The Barong Tagalog, the traditional dressshirt (which usually includes an embroidered
front) worn by Filipino men, is a popular
purchase among tourists. The best barong
are made from pinya, a fabric woven from
pineapple fibres. Jusi (hoo-see), from ramie
fibres, is more common and less expensive.
The long-sleeved pinya or jusi barong is
usually worn at formal occasions, while the
cotton version, with either long or short
sleeves (the latter is called polo barong), is
suitable for everyday use.
Ready-to-wear barong are available at
most handicraft shops and department
stores, and most tailors will gladly sew one
to your specifications. Most shops also
carry womens wear made from the finely
embroidered material.
A cheaper form of jusi is made into elegant tablecloths and napkins.
Galleries
There are numerous art galleries scattered
throughout Manila. One large concentration of quality dealers can be found on Level
4 of the Glorietta 4 Mall (p108) in Makati.
Along M H del Pilar St in Ermita there are
numerous shops selling paintings by local
artists. The standard is often quite good and
the subject matter varies (puppies and sunsets are faves), even though the artists turn
these things out at an alarming rate.
Hiraya Gallery (Map pp80-1; % 523 3331; 530
United Nations Ave) This long-established gallery
has a museum-quality selection of Filipino
art. A fine example is the polychromatic
carving of rubber by Leonard Aguinaldo.
The owners are veteran travellers and their
experience shows.
Caffe Ricco Renzo (Map pp86-7; %898 2542; www
.riccorenzo.com; 210 Nicanor Garcia St) Part cultural
centre, part gallery and part caf (p101),
this multifaceted place displays works by
Manila artists, some of whom trained right
here. There are regular art lessons as well as

seminars on writing and other pursuits.
SaGuijo (Map pp86-7; %897 8629; www.saguijo
.com; 7612 Guijo St, Makati; h6pm-3am) This top
music club (see p104) has a great gallery
with works in many different mediums.
Blacksoup Project Artspace (Map p88; %439
8838; Marikina Shoe Expo, Gen Romulo Ave, Cubao) Local
art, films and installations are all part of a
varied and erratic line-up.
Vacoop (Map p76; %527 3993; Plaza San Luis Complex, General Luna St, Intramuros; h10am-6pm) Filled
with all kinds of works by local artists.
Handicrafts & Souvenirs

Manila has a reputation as an arts and crafts
centre. You can find some very attractive
examples of Filipino craftsmanship such
as countless varieties of basketry, lamps
and chandeliers made of translucent Capiz
shell, and the colourful parol (lanterns) that
Filipinos traditionally hang outside their
houses at Christmas.
Shells, too, are a popular purchase, but environmentalists have serious concerns about
the impact of uncontrolled shell harvesting.
In particular, trident shells and certain giant
clams are protected under international laws
governing trade in endangered species.
You should also be aware that the Batangas or Laguna balisong (fan or butterfly
knife), a popular handmade souvenir sold
at numerous stalls in the Central Market in
Quiapo, is banned in many countries.
Silahis Arts & Artifacts Center (Map p76; %527
2111; 744 General Luna St, Intramuros; 10am-7pm) Its
almost more cultural centre than store here.
Authentic crafts from around the country
are sold next to beautiful antiques. All of
the merchandise is very high quality.
Budji Layug (Map pp86-7; %896 6316; 235 Nicanor
Garcia St) New takes on traditional styles is the
theme at this serene showroom for a leading local interior designer. Theres exquisite
craftsmanship in the wood and rattan items.
Firma (Map p90; %525 5001; 616 J Nakpil St) Theres
everything from kitsch to elegant artworks
designed by the owners of this delightful
store. The tassels in their many forms are
a must-purchase. At night, the upstairs is a
trendy bar, Castro at Firma (p103).
Balikbayan Handicrafts (Map pp86-7; %893 0775;
1010 A Arnaiz Ave, Makati) The kind of place that
pulls in tourists by the busload. Piles of stuff,
from hideous carved fish to charming wind
MA N I L A S h o p p i n g 107
chimes. At least at this tourist joint unlike

others elsewhere in the world the Made in
the Philippines tag is appropriate.
Markets
Traditional markets are, not surprisingly,
found in the oldest parts of town.
BINONDO, SANTA CRUZ & QUIAPO
This was always the trading centre of Manila and the tradition continues today. The
markets below are the antidote to antiseptic
air-con malls.
The lively stalls around Carriedo St near
Quiapo Church (p79) sell thickly padded
bras, hardware, porn DVDs and just about
anything else. Nearby, under Quezon Bridge,
otherwise known as Ilalim ng Tulay (literally
under the bridge; Map p82), you can find really
cheap junk for tourists. Across the road, at
Quinta Market (Map p82), youll find vendors
boisterously peddling fish, meat, vegetables,
fruits and other foodstuffs.
Around Quiapo Church are dozens of dubious apothecary stalls selling all manner of
herbal and folk medicines, as well as amulets (carved stones and medallions believed
to have magical powers). Showing admirable initiative, vendors will tell you that the
Pampa Regla potion is good for everything
from weight loss to curing erectile dysfunction, depending on how you look. Langis Ng
Ahas is literally snake oil maybe.
Further north of Quiapo Church, along
Andalucia St, the dingy Central Market (Map
p82), by the Manila City Jail, sells clothes,
military uniforms, knives and hardware.
On M Recto Ave, in the direction of
the harbour, are hundreds of stalls selling
household goods and bale clothing. The Tutuban Center Mall (Map p82) is a former train
station converted into a shopping arcade.
Also in the area, Divisoria Market (Map p82)
is a major centre for bale clothing and textiles, with cheap fakes of practically every
brand name on the market. Arranque Market
(Map p82) on Soler St has an ancient and
murky collection of food stalls.
MALATE
San Andres Market (Map pp80-1; San Andres St;

h24hr) looks like one big cornucopia of
fruits including exotic guyabano (soursop)
and durian. Its a dark warren of treats ripe
for exploration.
MANILA
MANILA
106 MA N I L A S h o p p i n g
Shopping Malls
Shopping malls at times seem to have eaten
Manila. Many are thronged on weekends as
residents escape their jammed and steamy
abodes for a walk through the air-con comfort. You can find a range of department
stores such as Shoe Mart at most, and, depending on the neighbourhood, the selection of stores can be startlingly upscale. Most
include a supermarket and food court.
Ermita and Malate are served by Robinsons
Place (Map p90; h10am-9pm). Its a vast place
and its getting bigger. Is this glitzy change
from the broken pavements of Ermita good
or bad? And does this point to a Makati-like
future for the area? The hordes inside have
voted with their feet.
In Makati, Ayala Center (Map pp86-7; www.ayala
malls.com.ph) at times seems to have taken
over the entire town. It is a vast complex of
interlinked buildings, shops, hotels and enclosed malls. Its humble origins are rapidly
being replaced by a new, much more upscale incarnation. The main focus has been
Glorietta Mall (h10am-9pm), which is actually
four malls (Glorietta 1 to Glorietta 4) under
one cross-shaped roof. There are hundreds
of mostly midrange shops and stores here.
Certain areas are devoted to electronics, art
and other specialities. There are dozens of
restaurants at all prices. The Landmark Department Store (%810 0990) is a delightfully
dated place where you can get three hankies
for your sweaty brow for P30.
Across Makati Ave is Greenbelt, an upscale development that encircles pretty little
Greenbelt Park. Amid the commerce is the
Ayala Museum (p85) and the open-air Sto
Nio De Paz Chapel (Map pp867). This is the
high end of the Ayala Center and there are
scores of delightful cafs and restaurants. The
four main buildings here are as follows:
Greenbelt 1 Fast food and simple restaurants, a supermarket (see p102) and theatres.
Greenbelt 2 Upscale restaurants with large patios.
Greenbelt 3 Upscale restaurants, cafs, bars, theatres
and designer boutiques.
Greenbelt 4 Luxury stores such as Gucci.
North towards the river, the ritzy new development Rockwell Center is anchored by
a large mall called the Power Plant Mall (Map
pp72-3; %890 6888; cnr Rockwell Dr & Estrella St, Makati;
h10am-9pm). It has over 100 high-end shops,
restaurants, theatres, offices and condos.
In Cubao, the Gateway Mall (Map p88; Aurora Blvd) has a large and glitzy collection of
shops. Its real value is as an elevated transfer point between the LRT 1 and 2 lines.
Easily the oddest collection of stores in
Manila is at the Marikina Shoe Expo (Map p88; Gen
Romulo Ave, Cubao), a once open-air collection of
discount shoe vendors. Some of the shops in
this old single-level complex remain (with
inventory unchanged since Imelda was in
her prime), but now some of the storefronts
have been taken over by an uber-hip assortment of kitschy shops and galleries who
have discovered the cheap rent. Theres a
gallery, Blacksoup Project Artspace (p107),
a bookshop, Datelines Bookstore (p71) and
a funky Italian caf, Bellinis (p102). Shops
(most open in the afternoon) include Chunky
Far Flung Gallery + Store (%485 8307) for figurines and other goofy toys including Astroboy gear, and Bong Salaveria (%500 3460) for
authentic retro 1950s and 1960s dcor collected by a local film editor.
Mall fans with Brobdingnagian fantasies
should head east to Ortigas Center. Here
there are no less than four malls, including
the biggest one of all: SM Megamall (Map pp72-3;
h10am-9pm). Stretching over a kilometre, SM
Megamall sprawls between two other malls,
Shangri-La Plaza Mall (Map pp72-3; h10am-9pm)
and Robinsons Galleria (Map pp72-3; h10am-9pm).
And just behind Megamall is the Podium (Map
pp72-3; h10am-11pm). Virtually every chain
store and restaurant and fast-food joint can
be found in this retail blight, which is as
suburban as you can get in Manila.
Greenhills Shopping Center (Map pp72-3; Ortigas
Ave, Greenhills, San Juan; h9am-10pm), not far from
Robinsons Galleria, is somewhat like a flea
market, with stall after stall selling everything from dubious CDs to antiques.
GETTING THERE & AWAY

Air
INTERNATIONAL
With the exception of Philippine Airlines

(PAL), international flights to and from Manila Airport (MNL; Map p84; %877 1109) use the
Ninoy Aquino International Airport Terminal I (NAIA or NAIA I) in Paraaque.
International and domestic PAL passengers
use NAIA II (also known as the Centennial
Terminal).
NAIA I is long in the tooth but functional. NAIA II is relatively new and gleam-
ing white. Both have currency-exchange

counters and ATMs after customs in the arrival areas. Passengers changing terminals
can use shuttles inside the airports before
they exit the terminals.
Note that someday an entire new terminal
will open at the airport. NAIA III will be a
cutting-edge replacement for most of the
international services at ageing NAIA I.
But when will it be done? Actually it was
completed in 2003, and has since sat vast
and empty. The tale of what went wrong
here is a fable for the rest of the Philippines.
Theres plenty of gossip and lawsuits but
the real facts are lost in a swamp of cronyism and corruption. Should NAIA III open,
it can be found on the airports east side,
near the South Super Hwy.
A P550 departure tax is payable for international departures. See p113 for details of
transport options to and from NAIA I and
NAIA II.
Many airlines have city ticket offices in
addition to those at the airport. Also, several Asian discount carriers are now flying
to Diosdado Macapagal International Airport (CRK; see p133) at the Clark Special
Economic Zone near Angeles, some two
hours drive north.
Air France (Map pp86-7; %887 7581; Trident Tower
Bldg, 312 Sen Gil Puyat Ave, Makati)
Asiana Airlines (Map pp86-7; %892 5698; Salcedo
Tower, 169 Dela Rosa St, Makati)
British Airways (Map pp86-7; %817 0361; Filipino
Merchants Bldg, cnr Dela Rosa St & Legaspi St, Makati)
Cathay Pacific Airways (Map pp86-7; %757 0888;
LKG Tower, 6801 Ayala Ave, Makati)
China Air Lines (Map pp80-1; %523 8021; Golden
Empire Tower, 1332 Roxas Blvd, Ermita)
Continental Airlines (Map pp86-7; %816 0527; 6760
Ayala Ave, Makati)
Emirates (Map pp86-7; %811 5278; Pacific Star Bldg,
cnr Sen Gil Puyat Ave & Makati Ave, Makati)
Gulf Air (Map pp86-7; %817 8383; 100 Alfaro St,
Makati)
Japan Airlines (Map pp86-7; %886 6868; Standard
Chartered Bank Bldg, 6788 Ayala Ave, Makati)
KLM-Royal Dutch Airlines (Map pp86-7; %819 5680;
The Athaeneum, 160 Leviste St, Makati)
Korean Air (Map pp86-7; %893 4909; LPL Plaza Bldg,
124 Leviste St, Makati)
Lufthansa Airlines (Map pp72-3; %580 6400;
Rockwell Center, Makati)
Malaysia Airlines (Map pp86-7; %867 8767; World
Centre, Sen Gil Puyat Ave)
MA N I L A G e t t i n g T h e re & A w a y 109
Northwest Airlines (Map pp86-7; %841 8800; La Paz

Center, cnr Salcedo St & Herrera St, Makati)
Qantas Airways (Map pp86-7; %812 0607; Filipino

Merchants Bldg, cnr Dela Rosa St & Legaspi St, Makati)
Singapore Airlines (Map pp86-7; %756 8888; LKG
Tower, 6801 Ayala Ave, Makati)
Thai Airways International (Map pp86-7; %812
4744; Country Space I Bldg, Dela Costa St, Makati)
DOMESTIC
Domestic PAL flights leave from NAIA II,

and other carriers operate from the Manila
Domestic Airport (Map p84), just north of
NAIA I and very close to Baclaran. There
is a P200 departure fee.
The domestic terminal barely qualifies
as such; youd think it was the terminal for
one of the smaller of the 7000 islands in
the Philippines. The waiting area for those
greeting passengers is a tent across from
the terminal.
PAL has ticketing facilities at NAIA II and
at ticket offices in town. Other domestic carriers have ticket offices at or near the domestic terminal and some also have city offices.
Air Philippines Makati (Map pp86-7; Legaspi St); Pasay
City (Map p84; %855 9000; Manila Domestic Airport
Passenger Terminal, Domestic Rd; h24hr) Destinations:
Bacolod, Cagayan De Oro, Cebu, Davao, Dumaguete, General
Santos, Iloilo, Puerto Princesa, Tuguegarao, Zamboanga.
Asian Spirit Pasay City (Map p84; %855 3333; cnr
Domestic Rd & Andrews Ave, Pasay City; h3am-7pm)
Destinations: Antique, Bagulo, Basco, Busuanga, Calibayag, Catarman, Caticlan, Marinduque, Masbate, Ormac,
Pagadian, Puerto Princesa, San Jos, Surigao, Taytay,
Tuguegarao, Virac.
Cebu Pacific Air Makati (Map pp86-7; 132 C Palanca
St); Pasay City (Map p84; %636 4938; Manila Domestic
Airport Passenger Terminal, Domestic Rd; h24hr) Destinations: Bacolod, Butuan, Cagayan de Oro, Cebu, Cotabato,
Davao, Dumaguete, Iloilo, Kalibo, Puerto Princesa, Roxas,
Tacloban, Tagbilaran, Zamboanga.
Laoag International Airlines Pasay City (Map p84;
%551 9729; Manila Domestic Airport Passenger
Terminal, Domestic Rd; h7am-4pm) Destination: Laoag.
Philippine Airlines Makati (Map pp86-7; Legaspi St);
Paraaque (Map p84; %855 8888; Centennial Terminal
NAIA II, NAIA Rd; h3am-8pm) Destinations: Bacolod,
Butuan, Cagayan Cebu, Cotabato, Davao, Dipolog, General Santos, Iloilo, Kalibo, Laoag, Legaspi, Naga, Puerto
Princesa, Roxas, Tacloban, Tagbilaran.
SEAIR Pasay City (Map p84; %851 5555; Manila Domestic
Airport Passenger Terminal, Domestic Rd; h3am5.30pm) Destinations: Batanes, Busuanga, Caticlan, Clark,
El Nido, Puerto Galera, San Jos.
MANILA
MANILA
108 MA N I L A G e t t i n g T h e re & A w a y
Boat
The port of Manila is divided into two sections, South Harbor and North Harbor.
Unfortunately for the traveller, two of the
shipping lines use the hard-to-reach North
Harbor. Its best to take a taxi to North Harbor, as the area isnt a place for a foreigner
to be wandering around with luggage.
There are three major shipping lines handling inter-island boat trips from Manila:
Negros Navigation (%245 5588; www.negrosnaviga
tion.ph; Pier 2, North Harbor) Destinations: Bacolod,
Boracay, Cagayan de Oro, Dumaguete, Dumaguit, Estancia,
General Santos City, Iligan, Iloilo, Ozamis, Puerto Princesa,
Roxas, Tagbilaran.
Sulpicio Lines (%245 0616; www.sulpiciolines.com;
Pier 12, North Harbor) Destinations: Baybay, Cagayan de
Oro, Calubian, Cebu, Cotabato, Dadiangas, Davao, Dipolog,
Dumaguete, Estancia, Iligan, Iloilo, Maasin, Masbate,
Nasipit, Ormoc, Ozamis, Surigao, Tagbilaran, Zamboanga.
SuperFerry (%528 7000; www.superferry.com.ph;
SuperTours hotline 528 7100; reservations@wgasuperferry
.com; Pier 15, South Harbor) WG&A Destinations: Bacolod,
Cagayan de Oro, Cebu City, Coron, Cotabato, Davao, Dipolog, Dumaguete, Dumaguit, General Santos City, Iligan,
Iloilo, Nasipit Butuan, Ozamis, Puerto Princesa, Roxas City,
Surigao, Zamboanga.
All three shipping companies have ticket

offices at their piers and in town, although
nowadays you neednt go to the shipping
offices to make a reservation or buy a ticket.
Travel-ticket agents can make bookings and
issue tickets. All three companies have excellent websites for checking schedules and
buying tickets.
Note that shipping schedules are prone
to change; adverse weather conditions or
renovation work on one ferry can totally
disrupt or alter the sailing times and boats
specified for the scheduled trips.
Ferries to the Bataan village of Orion are
run by Mt Samat Ferry Express (Manila Map p84,
%551 5290; Bataan %0917 873 2425) five times
a day in each direction. The one-hour trip
costs P300/150 per adult/child.
Bus
Getting out of Manila by bus is harder than
you might expect, as there is no central bus
terminal and no central source of information. Bus information seems to seep into
the collective conscious by a weird osmosis.
Ask around and youll find the right answer.
Two good resources (besides your hotel) are
taxi drivers and www.clickthecity.com. The

former often have an amazing knowledge of
the myriad of bus lines. Tell the driver the
city you want to go to and youll be taken to
the right bus station. The latter serves as a
good online guide. You can search for bus
lines and add in the name of the city thats
your destination. Often the correct company will come up. Alternatively, search for
bus lines and Manila and youll get a list
of over 100 bus companies with services to
and from Manila.
The myriad of private operators have their
own terminals scattered around the city.
Most are close to EDSA (Manilas ring road),
which connects the highways going north
and south of the capital. All the terminals
are accessible by public transport; the suggested routes (jeepney or LRT/MRT) to the
terminals are from Ermita and Malate. From
Makati, the companies are often just an MRT
ride away. It should be noted that Filipino
bus drivers are among the most maniacal on
the face of the earth, although the number of
accidents is surprisingly low. If youre not
used to travelling at breakneck speed, you
may well be in for a white-knuckle ride.
What follows is a list of some of the more
important bus companies. Note the headings below refer to the suburb from which
your journey originates.
MALATE
A daily bus leaves the Sundowner Centerpoint

Hotel (Map p90; %400 7352; 1315 A Mabini St) to
connect with a boat to Puerto Galera (P350
for bus and ferry).
INTRAMUROS & SANTA CRUZ
Close to the tourist belt, there are bus terminals offering services to destinations
such as Batangas City pier (for ferries to
Puerto Galera), Cavite, Ternate, Angeles
and the Bataan peninsula. To get to the
terminals, catch a jeepney from Taft Ave or
A Mabini St.
No 1 Alps Transit (Map p76; A Villegas St, Intramuros)
Alps Transit has buses to Batangas City pier every 20
minutes. To get to the terminal, take the LRT1 to the
Central stop.
No 2 Saulog Transit (Map p76; %442 5391; Anda
St, Intramuros) These companies, near Baluarte de San
Gabriel, have buses to Cavite and Ternate every seven
minutes. To get to the terminal, take a Divisoria jeepney
and get off just before Jones Bridge.
No 3 Philippine Rabbit (Map p82, %734 9836; cnr

Oroquieta St & Rizal Ave, Santa Cruz) Philippine Rabbit has
buses every 20 minutes to Angeles in Pampanga province,
and Balanga and Mariveles in Bataan province. All buses go
via San Fernando (Pampanga). To get to the terminal, take
a Monumento jeepney or the LRT1 to Doroteo Jos station.
SAMPALOC
In Sampaloc there are a number of bus

companies serving northern destinations.
To get to the terminals, catch a jeepney
from Taft Ave or A Mabini St.
No 4 Farias Transit Company (Map pp72-3; %731
4507; cnr Laong Laan St & M de la Fuente St) Farias has
hourly buses that leave for Vigan (Ilocos Sur), Bagabag (for
Banaue) and Laoag (Ilocos Norte). On the way, the drivers
make stops in San Fernando (Pampanga), Tarlac (Tarlac),
Dagupan (Pangasinan) and San Fernando (La Union). To
get to the terminal, take a Governor-Forbes-via-Espaa
jeepney.
MA N I L A G e t t i n g T h e re & A w a y 111
Center or take the MRT to CubaoAraneta

Center station.
No 8 Baliwag Transit (Map p88; %912 3343; EDSA)
Near the corner of Aurora Blvd. Baliwag Transit has buses
leaving for Cabanatuan via Baliway every 20 to 30 minutes.
A few doors away is another Baliway terminal from where
buses bound for Tuguegarao (via Cauayan) depart every
two hours and buses leave for Aparri twice daily.
No 9 Dagupan Bus Co (Map p88; %727 2330; cnr
EDSA & New York St) Dagupan Bus Co has buses every hour
to Dagupan, Alaminos and Lingayen in Pangasinan province.
There are also hourly buses to Tuguegarao and Baguio.
No 10 Dominion Bus Lines (Map p88; %741 4146;
EDSA) Dominion has hourly buses to San Fernando (La
Union), Bangued and Vigan.
CUBAO (SOUTH-BOUND)
Caloocan is an important departure point

for north-bound buses. Destinations include
Olongapo in Zambales province, San Jos
del Monte and Baliwag in Bulucan province,
and Cabanatuan in Nueva Ecija province, as
well as Vigan, Laoag and Baguio.
No 5 Baliwag Transit (Map pp72-3; %912 3343; 199
Services also run south from Cubao, including buses to Batangas, Lucena in Quezon
province, Naga in Camarines Sur, Legaspi
in Albay, Tacloban and Ormoc in Leyte,
and Davao in Mindanao. From the Araneta
Center Bus Terminal, in addition to BLTB
and Philtranco, several smaller operators run
buses to Bicol, the Visayas and Mindanao.
Take a Cubao jeepney or FX van to Araneta
Center or, alternatively, take the MRT to the
CubaoAraneta Center station.
No 11 BLTB (Map p88; %913 1525; Araneta Center
Rizal Ave Extension) Baliwag Transit has buses every 40

minutes to Cabanatuan (a jumping-off point for the surfing
beaches of Baler), as well as regular services to Baliwag
and San Jos del Monte. Take a Monumento jeepney to the
corner of 2nd Ave; the terminal is about midway between
R Papa and 5th Ave stations of the LRT1.
No 6 Philippine Rabbit (Map pp72-3; %364 3477;
1240 EDSA, Balintawak) Philippine Rabbit has hourly buses
to Baguio and Bangued, and buses every few hours to
Laoag and Vigan. Take the LRT1 to Monumento, then a
south-bound bus for Cubao.
No 7 Victory Liner (Map pp72-3; %361 1506; www
.victoryliner.com; 713 Rizal Ave Extension) Victory Liner has
four daily buses to Baguio. There are half-hourly buses to
Olongapo, Iba and Santa Cruz in Zambales. Take a jeepney
or the LRT1 to Monumento; the terminal is just before the
Monumento roundabout.
Bus Terminal) Behind Ali Mall. BLTB has buses to Sorsogon

(Bicol) and Catbalogan (Visayas).
No 12 JAC Liner (Map p88; %928 6140, 929 6943;
cnr EDSA & East Ave) JAC has buses to Bantagas City and
Lucena every 20 to 30 minutes from 2am to 9pm daily.
No 13 JAM Transit (Map p88; %924 7712; cnr EDSA &
New York St) JAM has buses every 30 minutes to Batangas
City, Lucena and Santa Cruz (Laguna).
No 14 Tritran (Map p88; %925 1758; cnr EDSA & East
Ave) Tritran has half-hourly buses to Lucena and Dalahican,
and buses to Batangas City every 20 minutes.
No 15 Philtranco (Map p88; %913 5666; Araneta
Center Bus Terminal) Behind Ali Mall. Philtranco has daily
buses to Sorsogon, Bulan, Tabaco, Legaspi, Naga and Iriga
(Bicol); Cebu, Tacloban, Ormoc, Caticlan, Kalibo, Iloilo
and Roxas City (Visayas); and Davao and Cagayan de Oro
(Mindanao).
CUBAO (NORTH-BOUND)
PASAY (NORTH-BOUND)
Most buses from Cubao head north to San

Fernando (La Union), Baguio, Tuguegarao,
Vigan or even Aparri, at the top of Cagayan
province. The bus terminals are clustered
near Araneta Center (Map p88; cnr EDSA & Aurora
Blvd); theres one terminal in the centre itself.
Take a Cubao jeepney or FX van to Araneta
A couple of bus companies head north from

Pasay for destinations like Baguio, Cabanatuan and Olongapo. To find your way
to these terminals, take a Baclaran jeepney
from M H del Pilar St or the LRT1 to EDSA
station and change to a north-bound bus
for Makati and Quezon City.
CALOOCAN
MANILA
MANILA
No 16 Five Star Bus Lines (Map p84; %833 4772;
PASAY (SOUTH-BOUND)
Aurora Blvd) Five Star has regular buses to Cabanatuan.

There are also buses to Bolinao and Dagupan in Pangasinan
every half-hour.
No 17 Victory Liner (Map p84; %833 5019; www
.victoryliner.com; EDSA) Victory has at least hourly services
to Baguio (Benguet), Tarlac (Tarlac), Alaminos, Bolina
and Dagupan (Pangasianan) and Tuguegarao and Aparri
(Cagayan). Buses to Olongapo and Iba (Zambales) leave
every half-hour.
Most buses out of Pasay head south, with

some connecting by ferry to other islands.
Destinations include Batangas, Lucena, Nasugbu and Santa Cruz. A few buses go further afield to Daet, Naga, Legaspi, the islands
of Samar and Leyte, and on to Mindanao.
No 18 BLTB (Map p84; %833 5501; EDSA) BLTB has
buses every 15 minutes to Batangas City, Nasugbu and
Lucena. There are also hourly buses to Dalahican Port,
SELECTED BUS DESTINATIONS FROM MANILA

Fares are average costs for air-con buses.
Destination
Km
Duration (hrs)
Bus Co Number
Fare (P)
Alaminos (Pangasinan)
Angeles
Aparri
Baguio
Balanga
Baler
Bangued
Batangas City
Bolinao
Cabanatuan
Cagayan de Oro
Calatagan
Calbayog
Catarman
Catbalogan
Cavite
Daet
Davao
Iba
Laoag
Legaspi
Lingayen
Lucena
Maasin
Mariveles
Naga
Nasugbu
Olongapo
Ormoc
San Fernando (La Union)
San Fernando (Pampanga)
Santa Cruz/Pagsanjan
Tacloban
Tagaytay
Tuguegarao
Vigan
254
83
596
246
123
400
111
283
115
350
210
487
550
227
136
449
102
126
269
66
101
56
483
407
6
1
13
6
2
7
8
3
6
2
72
4
12
20
16
1
7
72
5
10
12
5
3
28
3
9
2
3
26
7
1
2
24
1
10
9
9, 17
3
8, 17
6, 7 9, 17
3, 20
20
6, 10
1, 13, 14, 18
16
5, 8, 16
15, 17, 22
18
22
22
11, 22
2
22
15, 22
7, 17
4, 6
15, 22
13, 17
12, 13, 14, 18, 21
18
3, 20
15, 22
18, 19
7, 17
15, 18
4, 10
3, 4, 20
13, 21
15, 18, 22
19
8, 9, 17
4, 6, 10
329
88
700
385
161
467
540
136
366
155
2062
150
1050
1013
1158
40
532
2180
283
648
762
218
171
1605
220
603
121
170
1485
355
88
115
1318
78
647
540
Calatagan (near Matabungkay beach) and Santa Cruz, as

well as long-haul trips to Bicol, Samar and Leyte. For Leyte,
theres a service to Ormoc, two buses to Maasin, and one to
Tacloban. To get to the terminal, take a Baclaran jeepney
from M H del Pilar St or the MRT or LRT1 to EDSA station
and change to a north-bound bus for Makati and Quezon
City or walk 10 minutes.
No 19 Crow Transit (Map p84; %551 1566, 804 0623;
cnr Taft Ave & EDSA) Crow has buses to Nasugbu every 30
minutes and buses to Tagaytay (for Lake Taal) every 15
minutes. To get to the terminal, take the MRT or LRT1 to
the EDSA station.
No 20 Genesis (Map p84; %551 0842; cnr Taft Ave &
EDSA) Genesis has buses to Mariveles in the Bataan peninsula via San Fernando (Pampanga) and Balanga, leaving
every 15 minutes. There is also an early-morning bus to the
surfing beaches of Baler in Aurora province. To get to the
terminal, take a Baclaran jeepney from M H del Pilar St or
the MRT or LRT1 to EDSA station.
No 21 JAM Transit (Map p84; %831 8246; cnr Taft Ave
& Sen Gil Puyat Ave) JAM has buses every 15 minutes to
Lucena and Santa Cruz in Laguna. To get to the terminal,
take the LRT1 to Gil Puyat station or a Baclaran jeepney to
the corner of Taft Ave and Sen Gil Puyat Ave.
No 22 Philtranco (Map p84; %851 5818; cnr EDSA
& Apelo Cruz St) Philtranco has daily buses to Davao and
Cagayan de Oro, both in Mindanao. There are services to
Tacloban (four daily) in Leyte, stopping at Calbayog and
Catbalogan in Samar. There is also a bus to Catarman
(three daily) in Northern Samar. Buses stop in Daet, Naga,
Legaspi and Sorsogon. To get to the terminal, take a Baclaran jeepney from M H del Pilar St or the MRT or LRT1 to
EDSA station and change to a north-bound bus for Makati
and Quezon City or walk 10 minutes.
Car & Motorcycle

If you are driving, the North and South
Luzon Expressways are the quickest ways to
disentangle yourself from Manila. They are
relatively expensive tollways (pricey even
by Western standards) but that just serves
to cut way down on traffic. See p452 for
details on car rental.
Train
The ramshackle Philippine National Railways
(%361 1125) has its main Manila station
just north of Binondo at Tayuman St and
Dagupan St. As such it is commonly just
referred to as Tayuman (see Map pp723).
Services at the station like trains are
few. The one rail line from Manila goes
south as far as Legaspi (p190) in Southeast
Luzon, passing through Lucena (p128) and
other points along the way. Schedules are
MA N I L A G e t t i n g A r o u n d 113
nonexistent and are more a matter of the

overworked and underfunded staff trying to
get enough cars working to form a train. For
information and fares, your best option is to
visit the station, which is a 10-minute walk
west from the LRT1 Bambang Station.
GETTING AROUND
For many the worst part of Manila will
simply be getting around. Like many Asian
metropolises it has enormous traffic problems. Add in rush hour, rain or both and
youve got a quagmire. Fortunately theres
one thing local transport isnt: expensive.
Even a cab will seldom cost more than P200
for even the longest journey. So when traffic grinds to a halt, you can sit back in the
air-con and read a book or talk to the driver
about favourite cover bands.
Even cheaper are the jeepneys, which go
everywhere in a confusing muddle, but also
find themselves stuck in the same traffic
despite the best kamikaze-like efforts of the
drivers. The LRT and MRT trains are an
excellent way to soar over and past traffic.
The only downsides are the lack of comprehensive coverage of the city and the mobs
using the trains at rush hour.
To/From the Airport

Ninoy Aquino International Airport is
quite close to the city and barring traffic
you can get to Malate or Makati in 20 minutes. The options for doing so are many.
They are given here in descending order of
price (and convenience).
Prepaid taxi is by far the easiest way into
the city. You go to a hassle-free desk near
the arrivals area of the terminal, state your
destination and get a ticket telling you the
fare. Soon you are in a clean air-con cab
being whisked to your destination. Rates
are P345 to P375 to most popular destinations like Malate or Makati. This is the
only option where you are protected from
inclement weather.
Meter taxis have to be sought outside
the terminal and a warning applies: never
get one from the departures area at NAIA
I or II as they may try a scam. Catching
one with the locals means you should pay
meter rates (make certain of this, see p115)
which can average P70 to P100. The downside is you have to heft your bags a short
distance.
MANILA
MANILA
To catch a jeepney, look for one that says

Baclaran which will take you to the big
transport hub about 3km from the terminals.
Here you can switch to another jeepney,
bus or LRT. The fare is about P20, and dealing with your luggage is a hassle.
Specifics for each terminal are as follows:
NAIA I Prepaid taxis are at a booth marked Coupon Airport
Taxi outside of the customs area near the rental car offices.
This is still a somewhat secure area, so the waiting mobs
are kept at bay. For metered cabs and jeepneys, proceed
outside the terminal and down the ramp to the greeters
area. Walk three minutes across the parking lot and to the
right (follow other travellers) to an unsheltered area where
you can get a Baclaran jeepney or a metered taxi.
NAIA II A transport area next to arrivals has car-rental
counters and a prepaid-taxi desk. For taxis, walk to the
right as you exit the terminal and follow the sidewalk to
the point where taxis from the departures level are leaving
the airport. For jeepneys, walk to the left as you exit the
terminal, to a stop near where the road goes up a ramp to
the departures level.
Domestic Terminal Things are very simple at this barebones facility. A traffic island outside of the terminal is
where you can get both a prepaid taxi and a meter taxi. For
a jeepney, walk two minutes to the right as you exit the
terminal and catch one on Domestic Rd.
Bus
Local buses are only really useful to get to
places on the main roads such as Taft Ave,
Espaa Blvd or Epifanio de los Santos Ave
(EDSA), as they are prohibited from most
streets in the centre of town. Depending on
the journey, ordinary buses cost from P10
to P15; air-con buses cost from P10 to P25.
Like jeepneys, buses have their destinations written on signboards placed against
the front windshield, for example Ayala
(for Ayala Center) and Monumento (for
Caloocan). Probably the most useful local
bus is the air-con PVP Express bus from
Quezon Blvd by Quiapo Church to Ayala
Center in Makati.
Car & Motorcycle

Your first experience of Manila traffic may
put you off the idea of renting a car permanently, but if you dont mind the traffic jams
and unorthodox local driving habits, a rented
car is probably the best way to visit the attractions around Metro Manila. Remember,
though, that you are prohibited from driving
your car in the capital on certain weekdays:
number-plates ending in 1 and 2 are banned
on Monday, 3 and 4 on Tuesday and so on,

through to 9 and 0 on Friday.
International car-rental companies have
offices at the airport terminals and some
major hotels. These include the following:
Avis (%851 9274; www.avis.com)
Budget (%776 8118; www.budget.com)
Dollar Rent A Car (%893 3590; www.dollar.com)
Local car-rental companies include the
following:
JB Rent A Car (Map p90; %526 6288; Midland Plaza
Hotel, M Adriatico St) Cars from P1200 per day.
KEI Transport (Map p90; %524 6834; ground fl, Palm
Plaza Hotel, cnr Pedro Gil St & M Adriatico St) Hires out
Toyota Corollas for P1600 per day.
FX
Manila has numerous air-con Toyota Tamaraw FX vans, sometimes bearing a MegaTaxi sign, which follow similar routes to
the jeepneys, picking up and setting down
passengers en route.
The fare is P25 for long rides and P15
for shorter hops. They can also be hired as
taxis, at pre-arranged flat rates, to places
like the airport or tourist destinations outside the metropolitan area.
Jeepney
For the uninitiated, Manila jeepneys can be
a challenging experience. The long wheelbase jeeps offer a bewildering array of destinations and, though these destinations are
written on signboards stuck in the window,
few people arrive exactly where they intend
to on their first jeepney ride. However, if
you stick to the more common routes, some
of which are listed here, you shouldnt go
too far astray.
Heading south from Ermita/Malate along
MH del Pilar St, jeepneys to Baclaran pass
close to the CCP.
Heading north from Baclaran, jeepneys
pass along A Mabini St or Taft Ave, heading
off in various directions from Rizal Park.
Divisoria jeepneys take Jones Bridge,
passing close to the office of the Bureau of
Immigration (Map p76); Santa Cruz and
Monumento jeepneys take MacArthur
Bridge, passing the Manila Central Post Office; and Quiapo and Cubao jeepneys take
Quezon Bridge, passing Quiapo Church.
Useful final destinations include: Divisoria for Divisoria Market; Monumento for
Santa Cruz, the Chinese Cemetery or the

bus terminals in Caloocan; and Cubao via
Espaa for the bus terminals in Cubao.
Note that jeepneys are cramped, even for
diminutive locals. For more on riding jeepneys in the Philippines, see p453.
Kalesa
Horse-drawn carriages known as kalesa
are still a form of public transport in some
rural areas, but in Manila theyre confined
to Chinatown and Intramuros, where
theyre mainly used to take tourists for a
ride (sometimes in the figurative sense). If
you wish to use one of these carriages, agree
on the price before you board. Try offering
P50 for 30 minutes and let the bargain go
from there.
Note that the conditions of the ponies
used for kalesas can be quite sad. Also the
little carts may not hold more than one
person.
LRT & MRT

The LRT (Light Rail Transit) has two elevated lines. L1 runs from Monumento in
the north to Baclaran in the south. It has
interchanges with the MRT at EDSA/Pasay.
This is the most useful line for visitors as
its convenient for Santa Cruz, Intramuros
and the east edge of Ermita and Malate.
The new L2 runs from Recto in the west
(where its a short walk to interchange with
L1 at the Doroteo Jos station) east past
Cubao (where theres an interchange with
the MRT) to Santolan. Electronic farecards
are used with fares dependent on distance
(P12 to P15).
The modern MRT (Metro Rail Transit)
travels a southnorth route along EDSA.
As with the LRT, electronic farecards are
used with fares varying by distance (P10
to P15). It is handy for the Ayala Center in
MA N I L A G e t t i n g A r o u n d 115
Makati, Ortigas Center (use the Shaw stop,

not Ortigas), Cubao and Quezon City.
For both of the systems, buy enough
value for more than one ride as ticket lines
can be long. Avoid weekday rush hours
when the trains are jammed and you will
find that the LRT and MRT are an excellent
way to get around.
Taxi
Manila taxis are cheap. A trip across town
from Intramuros to Makati wont go over
P200 on the meter. The key is to get your
driver to use the meter. Most automatically
turn it on as you get in, but a few will try
various ploys to pad their fare such as forgetting or refusing to and then suggesting a
lump sum that is always more than a metered
trip. But dont fret; these practices are not
prevalent and should the meter not go on (or
in rare cases a previous fare not be erased), a
good-natured reminder to the driver to turn
your meter on will usually do the trick.
The one exception to this rule is when
traffic is jammed due to rush hour or rain.
In these cases you may give your driver a
break and agree to a fare in advance. However it shouldnt be more than P100 over
what the fare would normally be.
The official flag-fall rate is P30 plus P2.5
for every 500 metres or two minutes of
waiting time. Tips of roughly 10% are always appreciated. And do like the cabbies:
lock your doors.
Tricycle
Tricycles (also known as pedicabs) are bicycles or motorbikes with sidecars, which
are useful for short hops around town,
though they arent the cheapest way to get
around. Short journeys can cost anywhere
from P15 to P50, depending on how well
you bargain.
MANILA
MANILA
114 MA N I L A G e t t i n g A r o u n d

116
C O R R E G I D O R 117
After the urban joys of Manila have exhausted you or your lungs youll probably be more
than ready for a chance to get out of the city and experience something more natural. Fortunately you can do this quite easily, within a couple of hours you can get to the relatively
unpolluted waters of the coasts outside Manila. The south has sharply varied terrain, with
scores of mountains, volcanoes and craggy inlets, so just touring around is pretty interesting.
Nasugbu is a popular beach escape for locals, while the coast around Anilao is dotted with
excellent diving resorts for all budgets. The hilltop town of Tagaytay has fine views down into
the volcanic home of Lake Taal, and Talisay is a pleasant refuge on the lake itself. Further east,
Lucban is the best of several hill towns that have misty and most-appealing atmospheres.
Pagsanjan lures in scores of day-trippers with its canoe ride to Magdapio Falls.
Mabalacat
Clark Airport
Dau
Angeles
Mt
Pinatubo
Porac
(1760m)
Mt
Arayat
(1026m)
Savouring the pleasures both visual

and visceral of Tagaytay (p120)
Relaxing to the sound of lapping Lake
Taal in Talisay (p122)
Mt Pinatubo
Subic Bay
Exploring the lush hills surrounding

intriguing Lucban (p128)
Escaping Manila to historic Corregidor
(opposite)
Trekking to volcanic drama on Mt
Pinatubo (p134)
Plunging into the wreck-strewn waters of
Bataan Peninsulas Subic Bay (p131)
Corregidor
Tagaytay
Talisay
Anilao
Lucban
San Miguel
San Ildefonso
San Fernando
Subic
Barrio Dinalupihan
Barreta
Plaridel
Orani
Catabaza
Bocaue
Abucay
Balanga
Pilar
Orion
Mt Sumao
(1369m)
Norzagaray
Malolos
Hermosa
Olongapo
SUBIC Mt Natib
(1253m)
BAY
FREEPORT
ZONE
Bataan
Morong Peninsula
Mt Samat
(553m)
Bagac
Baliuag
(Baliwag)
Pulilan
iver
Diving the clear waters of Anilao (p123)
Umiray
Cabiao
Arayat
Santa Rita
Floridablanca
40 km
20 miles
To Banaue
(245km)
Gapan
Bamban
Santa Maria
San Jos
Del Monte
Valenzuela
Ferry
MANILA
Quezon
City
Mt Irid
(1468m)
Infanta
Montalban
Marikina
Antipolo
Pasay City
Taytay
Baclaran
Makati
Mt
Paraaque
Morong
Mariveles
Las
Kawit
Tanay
(1388m)
Pias
Lamon
Cabcaben
Binangonan
Cavite
Zapote
Bay
Mariveles
Alabang
Siniloan
Tanza
Talim
Muntinlupa
Island
Caliraya
Corregidor
Paete Reservoir
Dasmarias Carmona Bian
Naic
Lumban
Santa
Ternate
Rosa
Trece Palapala
Pagsanjan
Laguna
de
Mt
SOUTH
Maragondon Martirez
Santa
Bay
Sungay
Silang
Cruz
C HI N A
Calamba
(750m)
Mauban
Los Baos
Mt
Magallanes
SEA
Majayjay Sampaloc
Makiling
Calauan
Quezon
(1144m)
Tagaytay
Lucban
National
Talisay
Nasugbu
Mt Lucban
Park
Fortune
Tanauan
San
Pablo
Malicbay
de Manahaw
Baaga
Alaminos
Island
Lian Mt
Taal Volcano
Batulao
Banahaw
Dolores Mt
Wreck of
Tayabas
Atimonan
(810m)
(2177m)
Lake
the San Diego
Subic
Taal Lipa
Balayan
Mt San Cristobal Pagbilao
San
To Naga (260km);
Matabungkay
Tiaong
Balibago
Legazpi (350km)
Lucena
Agoncillo Nicolas
Mt Magulot
Pagbilao
(957m)
Lemery
Islands
Cuenca
Rosario San Jun
San Luis Taal
Calatagan
Ambil
Bauan
Ligpo Point
Island
Batangas
Anilao
Mabini
Lubang
Tayabas
Bagalangit
Island
Tabangao
Bay
Bataan
Sombrero Island
Laiya
Golo Island
Lobo
Maricaban
Pisa
Verde Island Passage
Island
Limay
HIGHLIGHTS
0
0
AROUND MANILA
To Santa Juliana (40km);
Baguio (145km);
Vigan (295km);
Sagada (315km)
aya R
Finally, Corregidor remains a lone sentinel at the bay mouth, though its scores of daytrippers are less likely to go for its WWII history than to enjoy the escape from Manila.
The island of Corregidor (Corrector), 48km

west of Manila, is a popular day trip from
Umir
Going north from Manila, you pass through vast stretches of featureless flatlands, which are
home to rice and cane fields interspersed with a growing number of housing developments
as the capital spreads ever north. As Mt Arayat and the volcanically active Mt Pinatubo come
into view, the land becomes more rolling and textured. San Fernando and Angeles are busy
provincial towns; the latter is also infamous as the home of the nations sex industry. The
Bataan Peninsula remains well known as the site of WWIIs notorious Death March, but is
also home to the Subic Bay Freeport Zone, a struggling area centred on the decaying bones
of a once-huge US naval base. The peninsula has many opportunities for water sports such
as diving; the waters are well removed from the dubious conditions of Manila Bay.
CORREGIDOR
Around Manila
Manila
Bay
AROUND MANILA
AROUND MANILA
Around Manila
the capital. In the decades after WWII,

many of the visitors were history buffs and
veterans, but now most people going out to
the rock are locals who enjoy the ferry ride,
the adventure of exploring the island and
savouring the sweeping views.
The Spanish were the first to exploit
Corregidor as the ideal first line of defence
against trespassers. It was the scene of fierce
fighting during WWII, and became the last
bastion of resistance by American forces during the Japanese invasion of Luzon in 1941.
General Douglas MacArthur holed up here
until March 1942, when he fled to Australia.
His successor, General Jonathan Wainwright, finally surrendered to the Japanese
in May 1942. Huge numbers of American
None of the places in this chapter are more

than four hours from Manila by road most
of the time. On weekends, when everyone
else wants to escape the city too, travel times
are longer; almost double on Friday nights
heading out of Manila and Sunday nights
heading back. At any time, the North and
South Luzon Expressways can help you leave
the seemingly endless sprawl. There are many
bus services to most places in this chapter.
118 S O U T H O F MA N I L A L a s Pi a s
and Filipino prisoners of war died on the

Bataan Death March from Mariveles to the
concentration camp in Tarlac.
Corregidor was occupied by the Japanese
until January 1945, when MacArthur returned. The second battle for the island was
no less bloody than the first, and thousands
died.
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Corregidor Foundation (Map pp80-1; %02-525
There are, as youd expect, numerous war

monuments on the island. Significant sights
include General MacArthurs HQ, the mile-long
barracks, the gun batteries and the Spanish
lighthouse, which offers good views over
Manila Bay. There is also a small museum
(admission free).
The Malinta Tunnel (admission P100) is a
bombproof bunker, built into the side of
a hill, that was used as a hospital and lastditch redoubt during the conflict. At times
there is a sound-and-light show in case you
need audio and visual cues to imagine the
drama here in 194142. Some areas still
have typewriters and other furnishings sitting untouched from that time.
The American-built Pacific War Memorial,
at the islands highest point (210m), is a
shrine to the thousands from both sides
who died in the conflict. Theres a symbolic
metal flame and an open-topped dome
that catches the sun on 6 May, the day on
which the island fell. Also worthwhile is
the Japanese Cemetery, which is understated
and formal.
Easily walked trails and paths lead right
around the island, which measures roughly
3km by 5km; you can usually rent bikes.
SLEEPING & EATING

Most visitors organise accommodation on
the island as part of package tours, which
include tours, boat transfers from Manila
Sun Cruises (Map p84; %02-831 8140; www.corregidor

philippines.com; CCP Complex jetty, Manila) has the
market cornered for trips to Corregidor.
Day trips cost from P1375 and include the
boat rides, various entrance fees and lunch.
Tours begin at 7.30am and usually return
to Manila by 4pm. You can also make arrangements to stay the night. The company
dispenses information from its jetty office
and is the contact point for booking the
accommodation.
SOUTH OF MANILA
There is a varied range of day- and shorttrip options south of Manila. Most people are impressed with Lake Taal and its
lake-within-an-island. Divers find much to
enjoy at Anilao, and the hill towns south
of Pagsanjan, such as Lucban, have some
scenic drives. For those with very limited
time, nearby Las Pias, Cavite and Calamba
offer meaningful historical sites.
LAS PIAS
%02
The once-tiny village of Las Pias, 20km

south of Manila, has long been swallowed
up by Metro Manila, but the centre has a
bit of village atmosphere and many of its
buildings have been restored using traditional methods.
The principal attraction here is the bamboo organ (%825 7190, 826 7718; Quirino Ave; adult/
child P20/10; h6am-noon & 2-7pm) in the very attractive San Jos Church (Quirino Ave). The famous organ was built in 1821, during a lean
period, by the Spanish priest Padre Diego
Cera, who instructed bamboo to be used
instead of the more expensive metal for the
majority of the organ pipes. The admission
price allows you to make a request to the
organist, and you can wander the shady
complex of churches and courtyards.
In the second week of February, organists from around the world gather here for
the Bamboo Organ Festival.
Jeepneys travelling from Baclaran (in Manila) to Zapote stop at the church (P11).
CAVITE
%046 / pop 99,500
The protected harbour of Cavite, 35km

southwest of Manila, was the site of the
destruction of the Spanish fleet during the
US invasion of Luzon in 1898. The city is
now the home of the Philippine Navy and is
known for its traffic jams for those who venture onto the peninsula off the main road.
The real reason for coming here is to visit
Aguinaldo House (%434 8573; admission free; h811.30am & 1-5pm Tue-Sun) in the village of Kawit,
23km south of Manila. Here the revolutionary army of General Emilio Aguinaldo
proclaimed Philippine Independence on 12
June 1898 a triumph soon quashed by the
Americans. The house is now a shrine, and
you can tour Aguinaldos private rooms
and see his much-loved bowling alley. The
general died in 1964 after a very long life
that included a rather distressing period of
chumminess with the Japanese occupiers.
Saulog Transit, in Intramuros, has frequent buses south along the coast road
(P30).
TERNATE
%046
A few resorts line the coast south of Cavite,

but most suffer from being on the somewhat dubious waters of Manila Bay. Best
of the lot if youre a golfer is Puerto Azul
Resort (%524 0027; cottages per person from P1550;
as), which has a justifiably popular golf
course set among the hills along the bay.
Accommodation is in reasonable cottages
on a grey-sand beach, but the pool is huge
S O U T H O F MA N I L A C a v i t e 119
and duffers enjoy the dirt-cheap all-youcan-drink bar specials.
NASUGBU
%046 / pop 97,300
Nasugbu has some of the most popular

beaches close to Manila. The main beach in
Nasugbu has dark-brown sand and is not
especially idyllic; however, a few kilometres north there are some small white-sand
coves and good beaches at Natipuan and
Munting Buhangin.
Sleeping & Eating

Following the road north of town will bring
you to some pleasant resorts. In town,
choose carefully as some places are pretty
run down. Most have modest cafs.
Maya-Maya Reef Resort (%0918 909 7170; www
.mayamaya.com; cottages P2800-4500; ais) A
large, shady resort in Natipuan, 6km north
of town, Maya-Maya is the most attractive
option in the area. Its 14 thatched-roof cottages sit on a quiet cove, and the caf and
bar have nice views of the marina. You can
go diving for P3000.
Shorebirds (%02-563 7071 in Manila; www.geocities
.com/shorebirdsbeach90; r from P1900; a) This simple place on the beach in town has clean
rooms and friendly staff. There are a couple
of comfortable neighbouring hotels as well.
Alix Bayside Beach Resort (%0927 840 9845;
r P1500-1800; s) Another simple place in
town, with nine fan-cooled rooms built
around a large pool.
Getting There & Around

Erjohn & Almark and Crow Transit have
regular buses from Pasay City to Nasugbu
(P120, two hours). The Erjohn & Almark
terminal is by the park in the middle of
Nasugbu; Crow has a terminal on the highway, 1km north of town.
A bangka to the beaches at Natipuan and
Munting Buhangin from the Wawa pier at
the north end of Nasugbu will cost about
P750.
MATABUNGKAY
%046
Matabungkay has a beach that is not as

long as that in Nasugbu but is equally
brown. The appeal here are floating picnic
rafts called balsas (per day rental P500 to
P1500) that would do Tom Sawyer proud.
AROUND MANILA
3420/9; Room 212, Dept of Tourism Bldg, Rizal Park,

Manila; h8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri) Handles general enquiries about Corregidor, although you may get better results
by perusing the foundations good collection of books and
other material on your own.
Sun Cruises (Map p84; %02-831 8140; www.corregidor
philippines.com; CCP Complex jetty, Manila) Is the best
source of information for visits to Corregidor; it also runs
day trips to the island.
and several meals. You can book direct with

Sun Cruises (below) or through most Manila travel agents or hotels. Prices following
are for accommodation only.
Corregidor Hostel (dm with fan P750) Relive the
barracks life in the 40-person rooms at this
handsome old building, which has a wellsituated caf.
Corregidor Hotel (s/d P1800/2500; as) An
attractive place with wood floors and fine
views. The 31 rooms are fitted with traditional rattan furniture and have private
bathrooms. This is where tour groups are
fed lunch (mains P195, buffet P300).
Corregidor Beach Resort (s/d P1800/2500; a) A
somewhat sterile collection of 15 modern
cottages near the beach.
Camp site (per person P50) This is a pretty spot
in the South Beach area. There are shower
facilities and a grill for cooking.
INFORMATION
AROUND MANILA
120 S O U T H O F MA N I L A L a k e Ta a l & Ta a l V o l c a n o
Anchored over the fairly clean water, these

are good bases for swimming and just kicking back. Dynamite fishing has done in the
reefs locally, however.
Most of the places to stay are close together
on the beach.
Lago de Oro (%0917 504 2685; www.lago-de-oro
.com; r from P3500; ais) About 6km south
of Matabungkay proper, this sprawling
place includes a large lake popular with
water-skiers. The beach is small but clean,
and the 26 rooms are in modest two-storey
buildings with shady patios. The food is
excellent, and the many European visitors
are kept happy with an on-site bakery.
Greendoors Cottages (% 540 3130, 0917 619
9796; r with fan/air-con from P800/2500) Run by truly
lovely people, the Greendoors is situated in
lush, leafy grounds. The 24 rooms are simple but large. Theres a communal kitchen
and the beach is out the back gate.
Matabungkay Beach Resort & Hotel (%02-752
5252 in Manila, 0917 834 1269; www.matabungkay.net; r from
P2400; s) Theres a tidy strip of beach out
back and carefully coiffed grounds (although

the shuffleboard court needs work) at this
modest compound. The 85 rooms are comfortable and the restaurant is excellent, offering up good pizzas and tasty banana splits.
Coral Beach Club (%0917 901 4635; www.coral
beach.ph; r P2800-3800; as) North of the pier,
this 21-room place has nice grounds and is
on a good strip of sand. The deluxe rooms
are well equipped, with fridges, cable TV
and large bathrooms.

Crow Transit has buses to Lian (P110, 90
minutes), where you can get a jeepney for
the final leg to Matabungkay (P20). From
Nasugbu, take a jeepney to Lian, where you
can pick up another. Lian also has jeepneys
for Tagaytay (P50, 45 minutes).
You can take a tricycle to the beach from
the Matabungkay junction on the Calatagan road (P10).
LAKE TAAL & TAAL VOLCANO

On a clear day, Lake Taal is truly a marvel to
behold. You can get superb views from Talisay and other towns that line the volcanic
ridge around the lakes crater setting. Like
a set of Russian matreshka dolls, the aptly
named Volcano Island in the middle of the

lake in turn encircles its own little lake.
The entire area is part of Taal Volcano,
one of the worlds smallest and deadliest. It
boasts over 47 craters and 35 volcanic cones.
In 1977, the calm of this peaceful spot was
shattered by explosive eruptions as subterranean magma tried to escape to the surface.
A team of vulcanologists keeps a 24-hour
vigil from the lakeside village of Talisay.
The bulk of Volcano Island emerged
from the lake during the savage eruption
of 1911, which claimed hundreds of lives.
Over the next 66 years, eruptions sculpted
and resculpted the islands appearance.
The main Taal crater is in the middle of
the island (the obvious cone visible from
the ridge is Binitiang Malaki, which last
erupted in 1715). Within the Taal crater is
a yellow sulphurous lake (itself containing a
small island), which is about an hours hike
from the islands shore.
The most active crater is Mt Tabaro, on
the west side, which saw dramatic lava flows
in the late 60s and mid-70s. Since then, Taal
Volcano tours have become a popular activity, with several villages on the lakes shore
offering boats across to the island.
S O U T H O F MA N I L A L a k e Ta a l & Ta a l V o l c a n o 121
along Tagaytay Ridge. Almost everything

of interest is located just off the ridge road.
A rotunda at the intersection of the road
to Silang separates the eastern and western
halves of town. Olivarez Plaza, just north
of the rotunda, is the commercial centre.
Beware of traffic jams.
INFORMATION
There are several Internet cafs around Olivarez Plaza as well as banks and ATMs.
Police station (%413 2002; Aguinaldo Hwy; h24hr)
Located 1.5km west of the rotunda; is adept with tourists.
Tagaytay City Hospital (%413 2160; Bacolod St;

h24hr)
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Peoples Park in the Sky (admission P50; hdawndusk), improbably perched on a towering
mound of earth at Tagaytays eastern end,
was Ferdinand Marcos unfinished summer
home. It is now a theme park that offers
spectacular 360-degree views of the area,
as well as a healthy dose of insight into the
ex-dictators psyche. Its 7.5km east of the
rotunda.
Most activities centre on the lake, island
and volcano. See Talisay (p122) for details.
Tagaytay
SLEEPING
%046 / pop 45,300
For a town with such a long stretch of

cliffside views, Tagaytays hotels are a disappointment. The dozens of resorts and
guesthouses on the lake side of the main
road have little to recommend besides the
views. Save money and frustration by sleeping on the valley side.
Sonyas Garden (%0917 532 9097; www.sonyas
Meandering along a ridge high above the

gaping maw of Taal Volcano, Tagaytay
serves up jaw-dropping roadside views that
will force you to stop. This pearl of the Cavite region lies just 60km south of Manila but
is everything the capital is not: cool, clean,
gorgeous, relaxing and oxygenated. Chalk
that up to altitude and attitude. Tagaytay
sits 640m above sea level and is regularly
massaged by cool breezes blowing off the
South China Sea, 50km to the west.
Tagayatay is a place for short morning
walks along the ridge and long afternoon
siestas; a place of gardens and greenhouses;
a place to sit for hours along the ridge, sipping cocktails and watching the mist tickle
the multiple craters of Taal Volcano.
The town is very popular with upscale
weekenders from Manila, both expat and
local.
ORIENTATION
Tagaytay occupies a narrow 20km strip of

real estate that runs roughly east to west
garden.com; cottages per person weekday/weekend P2500/

P2800; a) This exquisite countryside B&B
has elegant cottages featuring shower stalls

with pebble flooring, wall-to-wall screening, and easels in case youre feeling artistic.
The grounds are festooned with gazebos
and exotic plants. Yoga, meditation classes
and a full range of spa services are on offer.
The restaurant is one of the best in the region (right). Its 2km via tricycle or jeepney
from a well-marked turn-off on the main
road, 13.1km west of the rotunda.
Estancia Resort Hotel (%413 1133; d/nipa hut
P2900/3200; as) One of the few places
on the lake side that does not succumb to
dilapidation, cookie-cutter cinderblock design, astronomical prices, or all three. The
bamboo nipa huts are set unobtrusively

amid the jungle with balconies overlooking the lake. There are two pools. For lake
views, request a room on the east side. Estancia is 1.3km east of the rotunda.
MC Mountain Home Apartelle (%413 2232; Km
68.9 Aguinaldo Hwy, Alfonso; d P1700; a) This midrange hotel, 13.2km west of the rotunda, is
a little way out of town but worth the trip.
The rooms are small but immaculate, and
have nice views of the valley and mountains
to the northwest. Theres a spa and guests
get substantial discounts at several nearby
golf courses.
Keni Po (%413 0977; 111 Calamba Rd; d P1200; a)
This valley-side place, 3.5km east of the rotunda, is the best of the budget hotels, with
small, well-kept doubles that include minibars, cable TV and shared balconies.
EATING
Foodies know Tagaytay as a culinary mecca

where the best restaurants are often booked
out months in advance.
Leslies (%413 4271; Aguinaldo Hwy; meals P200)
This Tagaytay institution is known for fried
tawili (small fish), kar-kar (oxtail with
peanut sauce), sinigng (tamarind soup)
and other Philippine delicacies. Its large
outdoor dining area overlooks the lake and
is dotted with folksy open-air huts for private dining. Its 2km west of the rotunda.
Antonios (%0917 899 2866; Barangay Neogan; meals
from P1500; hclosed Mon; a) This upscale continental restaurant offers the chance to rub
elbows with politicians and oligarchs over
full-course seafood meals if you can get a
reservation. Book months ahead for weekends. The dcor is a mix of Filipino and
Mexican, and seating areas include some
lovely tables overlooking lotus ponds. Kids
menu available. The turn-off to barangay
Neogan is 7.6km east of the rotunda.
Sonyas Garden (%0917 532 9097; meals from
P800) The restaurant at the famous B&B
(left) serves up exquisite vegetarian dishes
and other fare using ingredients from the
eponymous gardens.
Bag of Beans (%413 2724; 115 Aguinaldo Hwy;
snacks P150) Dine among hanging angel trumpets, begonias and other exotic flowering
plants on the garden patio of this superb
bakery-restaurant specialising in English
meat pies and scrumptious desserts. Its
6.5km west of the rotunda.
AROUND MANILA
AROUND MANILA
Sleeping & Eating
122 S O U T H O F MA N I L A L a k e Ta a l & Ta a l V o l c a n o
Fame (%0927 817 1781; 168 Aguinaldo Hwy; a)

This live-music venue is known affectionately by locals as Freddys place because
its owned by Filipino folk-legend Freddy
Aguilar, who plays at 8pm every Saturday
night. Its 5km west of the rotunda.
Geladrinos (%413 2483; Silang road; a) Located at the rotunda, this British-owned
bar-and-grill is popular with expats. It has
live music on weekends.
GETTING THERE & AROUND
Crow Transit buses from Bacalaran (in Manila) stop in Tagaytay (with/without air-con
P75/45, two hours) on the way to Nasugbu
or Mendez. To return to Manila, hail Crow
buses from the streetside shed at Olivarez
Plaza or Mendez Crossing in town.
Several jeepneys traverse the main road
from one end of town to the other and cost
P5 to P8. Tricycles cost roughly P10 to P15
per kilometre.
Talisay
%043 / pop 32,500
On the edge of Lake Taal, the small town of

Talisay is centred on the junction of the road
up the hill to Tagaytay and the lakefront
road. Its a wonderful place to chill out right
by the water. The commercial district is
about 2km east of the junction; most of the
simple and serene places to stay are west.
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
The big activity here is bangka trips out to

Taal Volcano. There are dozens of operators
vying for the attention of arriving tourists,
and spotters alert the touts to tourists coming
down the hill from Tagaytay. Depending on
where you hire them, motorised bangka to
the island cost P1000 to P1500 for the whole
boat (life jackets are P15 to P30 extra).
The volcanic island offers several hikes.
Easily the most popular is the trip to the
main crater and its evil-looking yellow pool
and island. The walk takes about an hour
(or you can hire a tired old horse for P500),
and although most boat trips come with a
guide, you definitely dont need one. Another option is the hike to the neat cone of
Binitiang Malaki.
It is possible to take more rigorous allday treks up Mt Tabaro, an active crater
thats probably the most impressive part of
the island, or up the south ridge of Taals

main crater. Only a few guides make these
trips; they charge around P500, plus a bit
extra for a bangka ride around to the south
side of island (P2500 for up to six people).
For all the walks its wise to bring plenty
of drinking water and a hat, as the craters
are hot and dusty and theres little shelter
from the sun.
You can take a dip anywhere along the
lake. The Taal Lake Yacht Club (%773 0192; Barangay Santa Maria; admission P100; h8am-5pm) has a
good selection of water-sport equipment
that you can hire, including small sailboats
and kayaks. Its 1km east of the junction.
If you want to find out more about the
volcano, the Philippine Institute of Volcanology &
Seismology (Philvolcs; %773 0293; Barangay Buco; admission free; h8am-5pm), 3km east of the junction,
houses the monitoring station, an interesting
museum and seismographs of recent events.
Check out the picture of the lava delta.
SLEEPING & EATING
Talisay has several simple yet charming

lakeside retreats.
Gloria de Castros (%773 0138; r P500-2000; a)
At the far western end of Talisay, 5km west
of the junction, Gloria de Castros has one
of the best boats to Taal (P1000). The six
rooms are comfortable and all have private
bathrooms; the best two rooms have views
and air-con. The simple seafood dishes
(P100 to P150) go great with cold beer at
this friendly place.
San Roque Beach Resort (%773 0271, 0919 310
7976; s/d P1000/1500; a) Three kilometres east
of the junction, this is a clean and relaxed
place with 11 comfortable rooms. Taal boats
cost P1200, and the friendly family management will happily organise out-of-town
trips. Theres a swimming area on the lake.
Talisay Green Lake Resort (%773 0247; r P1500;
as) Next to the Taal Lake Yacht Club, 1km
east of the junction, this long-established
resort has six good rooms with TVs and
private bathrooms. Handy facilities for daytrippers (admission P90) include a swimming pool and picnic huts. Boat rental is
P1500.
There are regular jeepneys to Talisay from

Tanauan (P22, 30 minutes), which is on the
main bus route between Manila and Batan-
gas. JAM Transit passes through Tanauan on

its way from Pasay City to Batangas (P75, 90
minutes). The last jeepney trip to Tanauan
from Talisay leaves at 6pm. There are also
jeepneys up to Tagaytay (P26, 30 minutes).
TAAL
Taal is a historic small town with a number
of old Spanish colonial buildings. The truly
massive Basilica of St Martin de Tours (built
184965) dominates Taal Park at its base.
Numerous nearby shops sell the towns
famous embroidery and balisong (butterfly knives). Some of the oodles of historic
homes are open on irregular schedules; ask
for information at the basilica gift shop,
which is open from 9am to 6pm. The town
is 3km off the main road between Batangas
and Tagaytay but it is a worthy stop, especially if you have your own transport.
S O U T H O F MA N I L A Ta a l 123
Sleeping & Eating

There arent really any great places to stay
in Anilao town proper (Anilao is the generic
tourist name for the region); instead, resorts
line the rocky, steep coast going south. Most
are isolated from each other and you may
face 100 or more steps getting down to the
resort from the road another reason people tend to stay put. Note that quality varies
greatly from one place to the next.
Resort rates usually include meals and you
can get great discounts outside weekends.
Balai (%02-943 2808 in Manila; www.balai-resort
.com; r per person P1750) Simple yet attractive,
Balai has 15 rooms set in its own little cove.
The design is modern and there are many
decorative touches, especially in the breezy
common areas. The fresh and tasty dinners
are recommended. Located past Dive Solana,
this is one of the furthest places from town.
Planet Dive (%0918 929 9342, 02-410 6193 in Manila;
ANILAO
www.planetdive.net; cottages per person from P1700; a)
Anilao, 20km south of Taal on a small peninsula, is the most popular diving spot
for people from Manila in the know. It has
avoided the top-dollar development that
has transformed other resort areas, instead
maintaining a quiet seaside charm. There
are dozens of dive resorts strung out along
the rugged coastal road south of the village;
the attractions here are all below the water
and most people spend all of their time at
one resort. If youre not diving, you can
enjoy the sweeping views and solitude.
Eleven beguiling cottages cling to the hillside

at this spot, the furthest south of the resorts.
Some have air-con and all get good breezes
off the water. Theres a small beach in front.
Unlike most of the other resorts, Planet Dive
has instructors on site and offers certification
programs for divers. Fees vary depending on
the desired level of instruction.
Aquaventure Reef Club (%02-895 7932 in Manila;
Activities
There are more than three dozen dive sites
accessible from Anilao, in Balayan Bay and
around the Sombrero and Maricaban Islands. In general, the further you go from
shore, the more chance you have of getting a
dive site to yourself. Most of the dive sites are
coral gardens, making it perfect for beginners, though further from the shore there are
some walls with strong currents. Lessons are
readily obtainable and the waters are clear.
Resorts diving fees tend to range from
P800 to P1200 for a boat and two dives, including a dive guide; individual prices drop
significantly if you dive in a group. Equipment is usually available for rent. If youre
coming from Manila, you might check out
the packages offered by Divers Network (Map
p88; %02-926 4466; www.diveph.com; 192 Morato Ave,
Quezon City, Manila).
aquareefclub@pacific.net.ph; r per person from P2000; a)
There are 20 units at this well-established

compound, which overlooks a small bay.
Units are comfortable and the common
THE AUTHORS CHOICE
Dive Solana (% 0917 300 1974; www.dive
solana.com; s/d from US$90/115; a) Designed
by a scion of the Ayala fortune, Solana is
not only the pick of Anilao, its the pick of
South Luzon. In a jewel of a setting on the
water, Solana is 270 steps down from the
parking area. Once there, simple rooms are
beautifully decorated with arts and crafts
of the region, including embroidery, linens
and furniture. Its such a throwback to the
glory days of Filipino style that, as you sit
on your porch overlooking the water, you
fully expect to see a Pan American clipper
boat set down in the calm waters beyond.
The food is bounteous and complex and is
served with good wine.
AROUND MANILA
AROUND MANILA
DRINKING
124 S O U T H O F MA N I L A B a t a n g a s
areas have less of a hutlike feel than some

places. The resort has its own PADI dive
centre with a range of courses. Numerous
packages are available.
Regular jeepneys leave from P Burgos St in
Batangas (P25, 30 to 60 minutes) for the tiny
cocoa-producing town of Mabini, with some
continuing to Anilao town. From there, you
transfer to a Sulo-bound jeepney for the ride
along the coast to your resort (P10).
BATANGAS
%043 / pop 251,000
The capital of Batangas province boasts a

busy port and numerous chemical plants
and oil refineries; as such, the town itself
isnt particularly attractive. Most people
only come here to pick up a boat to the
beach island of Mindoro or to Romblon
Island in the Visayas.
Sleeping & Eating

Mac-Ro Lodge (%772 1038; cnr P Panganiban & Lieutenant Colonel Atienza Sts; r with/without air-con P1200/800)
This modern place has clean, comfortable
rooms (some available by the hour) and
is the nicest choice locally. The cheapest
rooms, with their windowless charms, will
appeal to spelunkers. The hotel is three
streets north of P Burgos St.
Travellers Inn (%723 6021; JP Rizal Ave Extension; r
P575-775; a) The best of the cheap hotels, it
has 25 very basic rooms and is 500m from
the ferry terminal. Deluxe rooms add cable
to your TV experience.
Avenue Pension House I (%300 1964, 150 JP Rizal
Ave; r with fan P250, with air-con P330) Three streets
north of P Burgos St, this is a short-stay
place with private bathrooms that is close to
the centre and has passable rooms.
Cheap little food joints can be found
nearby.

BUS
ALFS and JAM Transit have buses every 15

minutes to Cubao, Buendia, Lawton and
Pasay City, all in Manila (P150, 3 hours).
The ALFS terminal is at the junction of
Mabini and Manila Rds. JAM Transit has a
terminal on the road west to Bauan you
can get here on the Bauan jeepney from P
Burgos St in Batangas.
Near the JAM Transit bus terminal

there are minivans for Nasugbu (P75, 1
hours).
BOAT
Batangas is the main jumping-off point for

the extremely popular resort town of Puerto
Galera on Mindoro. There are also boats to
White Beach, Sabang, Calapan, Abra de Ilog
and San Jos (all also on Mindoro), and to
Romblon, Tablas and Sibuyan Islands. Batangas pier is at the end of JP Rizal Ave, reached
by the Batangas pier jeepney (P10).
All of the boat companies operating
out of Batangas have desks in the terminal building and the competition is quite
fierce. Touts add to the chaos and clamour;
its advisable to deal only with ticket sellers
behind company desks. The terminal fee is
P20, payable at the terminal counter.
Mindoro
Ferries and pumpboats operate until about

6pm between Batangas and Puerto Galera,
Sabang and White Beach, and service is frequent. Other boats go less often to moredistant ports. Note that you can also get a
combined bus-and-ferry service from Manila to Puerto Galera (see p205).
Companies that run services to Mindoro:
Father n Son Lines (%092 821 3828) To Sabang
(P130, one hour).
Montenegro Shipping Lines (%723 8294) To

Calapan (P130, two hours), San Jos (economy/deluxe
P465/568, 12 hours) and Odiongan (economy/deluxe
P456/546, eight hours).
Si-Kat Ferry (%0918 518 2683) To White Beach (P150,
one hour).
Super Diamond Shipping Lines (%0917 350 8121)
To Puerta Galera (P180, one hour).
SuperCat (%723 8227) To Calapan (P200, 45 minutes).
Romblon & Other Islands
Montenegro Shipping Lines (%723 8294) Serves
Odiongan (economy/deluxe P456/546, eight hours) on
Tablas Island.
Shipshape Shipping (%02-723 7615 in Manila) Has
boats on various routes to San Agustin (P360, 10 hours)
and Odiongan (P305, eight hours), both on Tablas Island,
and Romblon town (P382, 11 hours).
CALAMBA
%049 / pop 29,500
Calamba, southeast of Manila on the shores

of the Laguna de Bay, was the birthplace of
the Philippine national hero Jos Rizal, and

the much-restored Spanish-colonial house
where Rizal was born is now venerated as
the Rizal Shrine (admission free; h8am-noon & 1-5pm
Tue-Sun). On display are numerous items of
Rizal memorabilia.
Near the Santa Rosa exit from the South
Luzon Expressway, Enchanted Kingdom (%02830 2111 in Manila; www.enchantedkingdom.com.ph; admission P400-500; h10am-10pm Sat & Sun & holidays)
is Luzons most popular theme park, with

a good selection of thrill rides, including
Air Pterodactyl. Its open many weekdays
during holiday times. Kids love it.
LOS BAOS
%049 / pop 84,300
A few kilometres southeast of Calamba,

Los Baos trades heavily on its natural hot
springs, with many resorts offering water
slides, Olympic-sized pools, spas and even
hotel rooms with private spas. Some have
views of Laguna de Bay, with its fishers working the placid waters from huts on stilts.
Sights & Activities

If you get tired of the water, the University of the Philippines Los Baos (UPLB)
campus is the starting point for the hike up
to the top of Mt Makiling (1144m), an old
volcano with some impressive forest on its
upper slopes.
It takes about two hours to walk the 9km
from the UPLB campus to the summit. Its
a beautiful walk and youll see numerous
birds amongst the dense forest, which is
carpeted in moss. Look out for the cloud
rat, a recently identified rodent that lives in
the trees and is the size of a bread box.
The UPLB College of Forestry has a small
natural history museum (admission P20; h8am-5pm
Mon-Sat). A bit further up the hill, the Makiling
Botanic Gardens (admission P20, swimming pool P20;
h8am-4.30pm Mon-Sat) has a captive-breeding
program for the endangered Philippine
eagle and a peaceful swimming pool in the
middle of the forest.
Sleeping
There are a string of resorts on the highway towards Calamba but these tend to be
industrial-sized and designed to serve daytrippers from Manila.
Monte Vista Hot Springs Resort (%545 1259; r
P1900-3800; as) Halfway between Calamba
S O U T H O F MA N I L A L o s B a o s 125
and Los Baos, this is a huge place with

numerous pools, spas and water slides. Day
admission is P95 from Monday to Thursday,
and P125 from Friday to Sunday. Rooms
come with air-con and private bathrooms,
and the best ones have private pools.
Better are the places in Bayan, 7km away
off the National Hwy. Catch one of the
buses along the highway.
City of Springs (%536 0731; www.splashmountain
.com; 147 Villegas St, Bayan; r P660-2100; as) Has
a good main pool, a restaurant and a common area with restful lake views. Cheaper
rooms are dark, but more money gets you
a private pool, a spa or a view of the lake.
The property is in a quiet part of town and
is well maintained.

From Manila, JAM and Tritran buses to
Santa Cruz stop in Los Baos (regular/aircon P85/105, 90 minutes).
Jeepneys run from Calamba to Los Baos
(P10, 30 minutes). Jeepneys to the UPLB
campus (P8) leave from the Jollibee restaurant on the National Hwy. The last trip
downhill leaves at about 5pm.
SAN PABLO
%049 / pop 212,000
San Pablo, 15km east of Alaminos, is known

for its seven volcanic lakes, which offer some
pleasant walks. Closest to the centre is the appealing Sampaloc Lake. Located off Schetelig
Ave, it has a paved trail around the edge that
you can walk in one hour. There are several
restaurants on stilts which sell tasty tilapia
(carp), which are raised here. Across the road
is the small Bunot Lake, and further north are
the lakes of Calibato, Palacpaquen, Mohicap,
Yambo and Pandin. At the centre of town is
the looming Cathedral of St Paul the First Hermit.
Parts date from the late 1700s.
The town is also the jumping-off point
for hikes up the sacred slopes of Mt Banahaw (p127).
In the second week of January, San Pablo
holds its coconut festival a week of street
dancing and celebrating that showcases the
many coconut-based products for which
the area is famous.
Sleeping & Eating

Buenas Pension House (%562 9273; Culago Ave; r P4501700; a) See the incongruous City Hotel
AROUND MANILA
AROUND MANILA
126 S O U T H O F MA N I L A A l a m i n o s A re a
Throughout the region around San Pablo,

youll see roadside stands selling buko pie, a
local delicacy. Sort of like a custard pie, the
treat is laden with tender slices of fresh coconut. Theres only one size sold large so
have some friends to share it with, or plan
on making some. Among the many vendors,
the 50-plus outlets of Colettes are the best.
Youll find them along any major road. The
pies (P100) are made fresh throughout the
day in each store. If your pie isnt fresh out
of the oven, ask for one that is.
sign and youll have found this clean place

close to the centre. Cheap rooms are dark
and fan cooled; more expensive ones have
air-con and cable TV. Dcor includes a nice
patio and a nook for chess. Out front, theres
a decent karaoke caf with good food.
Sampaloc Lake Youth Hostel (%562 3376; Doa
St, Efarca Village; dm P200) Overlooking peaceful Sampaloc Lake, this four-room place is
friendly and very helpful. It has steps down
to the trail around the lake, and is close
to a market and cafs. To get here, follow
Schetelig Ave, the main road to the lakes
(P30 by tricycle).

Numerous buses from Manila, including
ones run by JAM Transit, pass through San
Pablo (regular/air-con P78/92, two hours)
on the way to places like Lucena and points
beyond. Most buses stop on Schetelig Ave,
close to the cathedral.
Jeepneys run from San Pablo up to Santa
Cruz (P38, 45 minutes) and Los Baos
(P26, 30 minutes). You can wave one down
anywhere along the highway. Jeepneys to
Dolores (for Kinabuhayan and Mt Banahaw) leave from the public market (P16,
20 minutes).
The lakes are all within 5km of the city
and can be reached by jeepney (P30) from
Schetelig Ave.
ALAMINOS AREA
Just outside Alaminos, Hidden Valley Springs

Resort (%02-840 4112 in Manila; overnight package
s/d from P5356/8225; as) is a jungle resort
with lush tropical flora, hot springs and
seven natural pools for swimming. Hordes
of day-trippers enjoy the facilities and gorge

themselves on the buffet lunch of Filipino
food. Overnight packages include all meals
and admission to the springs. The 30 rooms
vary greatly but all have varnished-wood
furnishings, windows overlooking the forest or garden, and private bathrooms. Most
romantic are the casitas (little huts).
As well as swimming in the springs,
guests can hike through the forests, visit
hidden falls or enjoy a poolside massage
and other treats. Visit during the week to
avoid the crowds.
JAM Transit buses from Manila to Lucena
stop in Alaminos (P70, two hours), and
local buses and jeepneys provide constant
services from San Pablo (P25). Tricycles
link the final 5km to Hidden Valley (P120,
10 minutes).
PAGSANJAN
%049 / pop 32,600
The town of Pagsanjan (pag-san-han),

100km southeast of Manila, has become
synonymous with the Magdapio Falls, the
starting point for a popular canoe ride
through the rapids of the Pagsanjan River.
This is one of Luzons major tourist attractions and boat trips along the river form a
huge part of the towns income.
Some of the final scenes of Francis Ford
Coppolas epic Vietnam War movie Apocalypse Now were filmed along this stretch of
river. Unfortunately, tourists can still experience what resembles the fate of the water
buffalo in the final scenes as they are led to
what seems like slaughter: touts mob new
arrivals to town and offers of boat trips are
aggressive.
In an effort to insulate tourists from the
rapacious demands of bancero (boatmen)
there are official rates of P580 per person,
plus P50 for a life jacket (mandatory) and
P30 for a cushion (most places just offer
a nondiscounted package of all three for
P660). However, bancero still strongly suggest that you give them a tip; P200 should
suffice. Booking a trip through your accommodation is still the best way to ensure a
hassle-free journey.
For the ride up to the falls, two bancero
paddle the canoe for 1 hours against the
powerful flow of the river, through a dramatic gorge hemmed by towering cliffs and
vegetation. At the top, the bancero will take
you under the 10m-high falls on a bamboo

raft for an additional P50. From here, you
let the water do the work. The trip downstream is fast and exhilarating.
The height of the wet season (August to
September) is the best time to ride the rapids. At any time of year its best to avoid
weekends, as half of Manila seems to descend on Pagsanjan. You should bring a
plastic bag for your camera, and prepare to
get very wet.
Sleeping
La Vista (%0906 833 7153; Garcia St; r P1000-2000;
a) This new place is right on the river in
town. It has four very clean rooms, and the
rooftop penthouse sleeps four. The deck has
fabulous views you can enjoy over a beer.
Willy Flores Guesthouse (%500 8203; 821 Garcia
St; r with fan P300) Behind the municipal hall,
this is a spotless and friendly family-run
place with three rooms, one with private
toilet. Its a few houses in from the water.
On the highway towards Lucban, there
are several large resorts with great views
overlooking the river. However, they also
S O U T H O F MA N I L A Pa g s a n j a n 127
suffer from a certain charmless institutional

quality.
La Corona de Pagsanjan Resort (%02-524 2631
in Manila; pagsanjan@hotelacorona.com; d P2200; as)
This large place has 33 decent rooms, which

unfortunately dont have views of the river.
But its the best bet of the big places and
it has three pools, a restaurant and wellmaintained grounds.
Eating
83 Gallery Cafe & Restaurant (%808 4967; 83 Rizal
St; meals P150-300; h9am-9pm; a) This stylish
little place is a few cuts above the norm
and attracts day-trippers with its interesting menu of salads, pizzas and other treats,
some seasoned with homegrown herbs.
The dining room is cute and the garden
has local works of art. Its a few minutes
walk from the centre of town.
Aling Talengs Halo Halo (%0916 309 3683; 169
General Luna St; halu-hal P30; h9am-6pm) Whats
better after a hot day on the river than the
national icey treat? This simple place right
by the bridge has been making dreams
come true for decades.
HIKING MT BANAHAW
Descriptions of the vast dormant volcanic cone of Mt Banahaw, 15km east of San Pablo, are
almost always accompanied by the term mystic. The Rizalistas, a religious sect, gather in the
Banahaw crater to wash in the River Jordan and pray for the rebirth of Jos Rizal, and every
Easter, up to 30,000 devotees begin the ascent of the holy mountain.
Mt Banahaw offers some of the most impressive hiking in southern Luzon. The weather is
an important consideration, however, as the awe-inspiring views from the rim down into the
600m-deep crater can vanish entirely in low cloud. Even in the dry season, cloud can suddenly
rise up from the crater bottom, adding to the spooky atmosphere. Some locals are convinced
theyve seen UFOs.
The trek up to the crater rim (2177m) and down into the crater, returning via the canyon on
the western side of the volcano, takes two to three days, but the crater rim can be visited as an
overnight trek. The more popular entry point is from the eastern (Dolores) side, up either Via
Christalino, the short but steep path with great waterfalls, or Via Tatlongtang, the longer but
easier path. Consult weather forecasts before the treacherous climb, and dont camp in the crater
as flash flooding can occur. The path is well worn, but branching trails make guides necessary.
The starting point is the village of Kinabuhayan, near Dolores, where you check in at the
barangay hall and can inquire about a guide. Supplies are best bought in San Pablo. You will
need to bring your own camping gear, but water is in good supply on the mountain. Note that
at various times the government closes the mountain to trekkers in order to protect it. For info,
check with the Department of Environment & Natural Resources (%02-928 1178 in Manila;
www.denr.gov.ph).
Jeepneys to Dolores leave from the public market in San Pablo every few minutes during
daylight hours. From Dolores you can pick up another jeepney to Kinabuhayan.
Power Up (%0918 902 0754, 02-631 4675), a climbing outfit based in Manila, can design and
lead hikes of the mountains, with fees starting at P1500 per person.
AROUND MANILA
AROUND MANILA
GOING COCONUTS FOR BUKO PIE
128 S O U T H O F MA N I L A Lu c b a n
Dura-Fe (General Taio St; meals P40-150; h7am8pm) Good Filipino food in an open-air setting and low prices.
There are no direct buses to Pagsanjan, but
there are regular JAM Transit services (P115,
2 hours) from Manila to nearby Santa
Cruz. Santa Cruz bus terminal is on the
highway, about halfway to Pagsanjan; there
are jeepneys to and from Pagsanjan (P11).
For San Pablo and Los Baos, jeepneys
leave from the plaza in front of Santa Cruz
city hall.
From Pagsanjan you can take a jeepney
to the pretty mountain town of Lucban
(P30, 45 minutes), and connect from there
to Lucena.
LUCBAN
%042 / pop 39,500
Hidden away in the foothills of Mt Banahaw,

the quiet mountain town of Lucban comes
alive on 15 May for Pahiyas, the annual harvest festival and feast of San Isidro Labrador.
Locals compete for a prize by covering their
houses in wildly elaborate decorations made
from multicoloured rice-starch decorations
called kiping, as well as with masses of fruit
and vegetables. Giant papier-mch effigies
are marched through the streets to the town
church. Its a great festival and, best of all,
locals are delighted to have foreigners join
them in the bounty (if you want a room,
book a year in advance).
The air here is pleasantly cool and the
narrow streets are full of atmosphere. There
are a number of old Spanish townhouses.
The Church of St Louis of Toulouse dates from
1738, though it sits atop the ruins of several
churches dating back to 1595. Drives in the
surrounding verdant hills are lovely.
Among other things, Lucban is known for
its longganisa (Chinese-style pork sausages)
and pansit (fried noodles). There are also a
few little handicraft shops around the plaza.
Patio Rizal Hotel (%540 2107; www.geocities
.com/prhlucban; 77 Quezon Ave; r P1000-1800; a) is a
modern, upscale place with a retro design,
situated in the centre of town. Its excellent caf overlooks a small plaza. Rooms are
of an international standard and are quite
comfortable.
Enjoy the local specialties at the nearly alphabetical and superfriendly Abcedes (%540
2277; Quezon Ave; meals P30-100; a), a simple caf
right on the main street.

There are regular jeepneys to Lucena (P35,
50 minutes), which stop on the way at Tayabas (P15, 25 minutes). Pick up the jeepneys
on Quezon Ave. Heading to Pagsanjan, jeepneys (P30, 45 minutes) run along Rizal St.
TAYABAS
%042 / pop 72,400
Approximately halfway between Lucban

and Lucena, Tayabas is an attractive and
well-preserved town built at the base of the
mountains. It is the site of the stalwart St
Michael Archangel Basilica, which was built in
1856 over the ruins of a 1585 church. About
3km south from Tayabas, on the road to
Mauban, the stone Malagunlong Bridge was
built by the Spanish in 1840 and looks like
something out of a Sergio Leone movie.
Some 6km towards Lucban, Kamayan Sa
Palaisdaan (%793 3654; dishes P110-200; h10am10pm) is a well-known seafood restaurant.
Tables are set in private bamboo shelters,
many floating on a fish pond. If you bring
your own rod, you can throw in a line from
your table and pay for what you catch.
Tayabas is connected by jeepney to Lucena (P20, 25 minutes) and Lucban (P15,
25 minutes).
LUCENA
%042 / pop 198,000
Most people only pass through Lucena,

120km southeast of Manila, on the way to
the lively fishing port of Dalahican, which
is the departure point for passenger boats to
Marinduque. The capital of Quezon province, Lucena is a pleasant stop before catching a boat or continuing your journey south,
but you wont want to linger too long.
Quezon Ave is the main shopping street
in Lucena, with numerous restaurants and
the San Ferdinand Cathedral. There are several
banks near the corner of Gomez and Granja
Sts, as well as Internet cafs, which charge
about P50 per hour.
Next to the Provincial Governors Office,
Museo ng Quezon (Provincial Health Bldg, Quezon Capitol
compound, Quezon Ave; admission free; h9am-noon &
1-4.30pm Mon-Fri) houses numerous items of
memorabilia from Manuel L Quezon, the

dapper first president of the Philippines.
North of town, Quezon Ave turns into
the road to Tayabas and Lucban. Follow P
N O R T H O F MA N I L A B a t a a n Pe n i n s u l a 129
Gomez St for the highway which leads to

Atimonan and Dalahican port.
or Dalahican port; the journey should take

four hours and cost about P160/186 for
regular/air-con services. From Grand Central a vast structure 5km north of town
on Diversion Rd there are also air-con
buses to Legaspi (P460, nine hours) running three times daily. Regular jeepneys
connect Grand Central with the centre (P8)
and Dalahican port (P20).
Out of town on the road to Manila (near
the Fresh Air Hotel & Resort), you can get
jeepneys to Batangas City (P60, 3 hours)
and Lucban (P20, 25 minutes).
Sleeping & Eating

You can stay at modern places along the
highways outside of town, but the best bet
is to stay near the compact and enjoyable
centre, which has several cafs and fastfood joints, as well as numerous shops.
House of Halina Hotel (%710 2902; halina@quezon
.net; 104 Gomez St; r P225-1500; a) A short walk
from Quezon Ave, this sprawling place has
a huge variety of reasonably priced rooms
set in a large compound. Its starting to fade
but the staff are friendly.
Fresh Air Hotel & Resort (%710 2424; www
.freshairhotel.com; r P220-620; as) Outside of
town on the road to Manila, this is a clean
conference hotel offering 92 rooms that
range from the small with fan-cooling to
the comfortable with mod cons. It has a
popular restaurant.
Eastern Treasure (%710 3530; Quezon Ave; meals
P100-200; a) As good as it gets in Lucena.
This cavernous place serves up excellent
Chinese-Filipino fare. The pork sisi (crispy
pork) is excellent and the chicken fillet with
garlic pepper is superb.

BOAT
Several shipping lines have offices at Dalahican port (%373 3992), which is 5km south
of the huge new Shoe Mart at the east end
of Lucena. Your nostrils will tell you that
this is not only a major port for travellers,
but also for fishing. A tricycle from town
costs P35.
Blue Magic Ferries (%710 4168) Runs the fastest
service to Balanacan (P220, 1 hours, twice daily) on
Marinduque; also plies the route to Masbate (regular/aircon P550/660, 12 hours, three times a week) on Masbate
Island.
Montenegro Shipping Lines (%373 7084) Also
services Balanacan (P140, 2 hours, four times daily).
Phil-Nippon Kyoci Corp (%373 2458) Goes to Cawit
(regular/air-con P165/200, three hours, twice daily) in
Cavite.
Santa Cruz Shipping Services (%321 1742) Goes to
Buyabod (P160, 2 hours, twice daily) on Marinduque.
BUS & JEEPNEY
Numerous companies, including JAM

Transit, run frequent buses between Manila and Lucena Grand Central terminal
TRAIN
Lucena is connected by rail to both Manila (regular/air-con P79/102) and Legaspi

(P205/276); unfortunately, train schedules
are unpredictable due to the horrible nature
of the equipment and tracks. A journey to
Manila can take from five to eight hours, to
Legaspi 13 to 18 hours. Many trains have no
air-con cars its sort of a lottery to get a
train that does. However, if your train runs
during daylight hours, the scenery is amazing. Theres no food or drink sold aboard.
The cute but forlorn station (%710 4831) is
next to the Quezon Capitol compound (P10
by tricycle from the centre).
NORTH OF MANILA
The Bataan Peninsula north of Manila is
the destination for those wishing to recall
the fateful 1942 Death March. Otherwise
the big draw north is the Subic Bay area,
with its nascent resort centre and many
activities. Angeles remains utterly unreformed and unreconstructed, although the
nearby Clark Airfield is now home to a
growing number of bargain airlines.
Looming over it all and attracting a few
hardy adventurers is the hulking volcanic
Mt Pinatubo.
BATAAN PENINSULA
For WWII veterans of the Pacific campaign,
few places have such bitter associations as
the Bataan Peninsula. Both sides saw some
of their darkest moments in the jungles
around Mt Mariveles. The Dambana ng
Kagitingan (Shrine of Valor) atop nearby
Mt Samat is a monument to the grim battles
that were fought here.
AROUND MANILA
AROUND MANILA
Since the war, the majority of tourists to

the area have been returning servicemen,
and the passage of time means that this
march of memories has slowed to a trickle.
Few are left who experienced the Bataan
Death March first-hand, a grisly affair that
began when 70,000 US and Filipino troops
surrendered to the Japanese in April 1942.
The victors marched the troops, many sick
and diseased from months of fighting,
100km across the peninsula to POW camps.
Along the way at least 10,000 perished.
Mt Samat
Every 9 April, American and Japanese veterans gather at the Dambana ng Kagitingan (Shrine
of Valor; %02-911 4296; admission P40; h8am-noon &
1-5pm) on top of Mt Samat and pay tribute to
the thousands of their comrades who fell in

the surrounding jungles. The centrepiece of
the shrine is a 90m-high crucifix with battle
scenes carved around its base. There is also
a memorial wall, an open-air chapel and
a small museum of weapons captured from
the Japanese when the Americans returned
in 1945.
If its working, you can take the lift up to
the crossbar of the massive crucifix, where
there is a long viewing gallery with great
views out over Mt Mariveles, Manila Bay
and the South China Sea.
Unless you hire a car, the only way to get
here is to take a jeepney from Balanga or
Orion towards Bagac, get out at the foot of
Mt Samat in barangay Diwa, then walk 7km
to the shrine. From Balanga, jeepneys leave
from the Bataan transport mall (P10). A
tricycle from Balanga or the ferry terminal
in Orion will do the trip for around P50.
Balanga
%047 / pop 73,000
The capital of Bataan province is a friendly

little place with a few hotels, a cathedral and
a busy town market. Its a good base for
hikes up to the WWII shrine at Mt Samat
and there are a few interesting churches
in the area, most notably in Orion and
Abucay (the latter town has a church that
dates from at least 1610 and housed the first
printing press in the Philippines).
The helpful Provincial Tourism Office (%237
4785; www.bataan.gov.ph/home; h8am-noon & 1-5pm
Mon-Fri) is inside the Provincial Capitol
Building.
SLEEPING & EATING
There are a few choices if you need to stay

overnight for a trip up Mt Samat.
Hillside Garden Mansions (%237 1771; Roman Hwy;
r incl breakfast P1500-2100; a) On the main road
heading north, this is a large place with 24
elegant rooms. The best have private Jacuzzis
and all come with private bathrooms.
Elison Hotel (% /fax 237 2942; Lerma St; s/d
P750/950; a) The better of the two budget
hotels in town. Its near the cathedral and
city hall. It has 31 rooms; ask for one of the
recently renovated ones.
Lou-is (%237 3517; Capitol Dr; meals P100-300;
hlunch & dinner; a) The best place in town,
this little compound is redolent with the
smell of manok sa ayo, a local fave thats a
sour soup made from chicken and numerous spices.
Camacho St is lined with little places
roasting whole chickens.
Ferries are the best way to reach Bataan.

The road journey, even with the North
Luzon Expressway, can take hours owing
to traffic. Mt Samat Ferry Express (%0917 873
2425, 02-551 5290 in Manila; adult/child P300/150) runs
boats from Manilas CCP complex to Orion
five times a day in each direction; the trip
takes an hour. To get from Balanga to Orion
port, take a Limay jeepney from the Bataan
transport mall and ask to be let out at the
port (P20, 30 minutes). Its a five-minute
walk or short tricycle ride (P10) to the ferry
port from the jeepney stop.
From the Bataan transport mall, Victory
Liner (%237 0762) has buses to Olongapo
(P60, two hours). Out of town on Capitol
Rd, Bataan Transit (%237 1130, 02-724 0156 in Manila) has air-con buses to Cubao in Manila
(P150, four hours).
OLONGAPO & SUBIC BAY

%047 / pop 205,000
This area remains in transition, despite the

time that has passed since the US military
left in 1992. Until then, Subic Bay was the
base for the huge 7th Fleet of the US Navy.
The adjoining town of Olongapo was entirely dependent on the naval base, generating much of its revenue from the sex
industry. Now meant to be redeveloped
into a thriving tourist mecca, the efforts
are meeting with mixed results. Subic Bay
has been rechristened the Subic Bay Freeport Zone (SBFZ) but suffers from a persistent separation from town (it still feels like
youre entering a military zone theres
even fresh Keep off the grass! signs everywhere) and a lack of money to erase the
mouldering remains of the base, which
blight the landscape.
The former naval base is slowly evolving
into a busy industrial zone and resort area,
with numerous luxury hotels and casinos,
and charter flights bringing in gamblers from
across Asia. The sex industry is diminished
and Olongapo still seems to have a hangover
from its wild days as a military town, despite
the best efforts of the local Gordon clan, a
political dynasty that seems to have a family
member in every elected position.
The biggest attractions are scuba diving on one of the many shipwrecks that
lie on the bottom of Subic Bay, or visiting
the various attractions tied to local ecology. With a hire car, Olongapo is also a
good base from which to explore Bataan,
the area around Mt Pinatubo (p134) and
the Zambales coastline (p138).
Information
The SBFZ Tourism Department (%252 4154; www
.sbma.com; 2nd fl, Bldg 662, Taft St, SBFZ; h8am-6pm)
has information on activities, accommodation and restaurants.
Internet cafs, banks and shops are concentrated along Rizal Ave in Olongapo.
Sights & Activities

For many, the highlight of a visit is the
Jungle Environment Survival Training (JEST ) Camp
(%252 9072, 252 2319; admission P100; h8am-5pm),
where the indigenous people of the area, the
Aeta, were employed to teach US servicemen how to survive in the jungle. Today the
facility offers demonstrations of survival
techniques, from producing fire to making
soap from jungle plants, and theres a minizoo and museum. You can try your hand at
survival for three hours (P250) or overnight
(P500); you supply your own equipment.
Winstar buses shuttle here from the SBFZ
gate (P15).
The Subic Bay Nature Park (%252 4123, 252
4242; admission P20) extends the effort to recreate Subic Bay as an ecotourism destination.
The park has trails through bamboo forests and mangroves, and interesting sights
N O R T H O F MA N I L A O l o n g a p o & S u b i c B a y 131
include the 50-year-old US Navy bunkers

and the driftwood garden mangroves
petrified by the sulphuric ashes from Mt
Pinatubo. In the same area is Bat Kingdom
the biggest known roosting site of the
worlds largest bats: the Philippine fruit bat
and the golden-crowned flying fox.
On the next headland south, Ocean Adventure (%252 9000; www.oceanadventure.com.ph; Camayan Wharf, West Ilanin Forest Area; adult/child P450/370;
h9am-6pm) is an open-water marine park
where you can see dolphins, sea lions and

other aquatic critters.
The last two attractions can only be
reached by private vehicle. If you have your
own transport, the SBFZ Tourism Department can organise a guided bay tour (per vehicle
P150) that takes you on a flexible itinerary
around the area.
WATER SPORTS
Of the seven wrecks commonly visited by

divers, the USS New York (at a depth of
28m) is probably the most impressive. The
battle cruiser was built in 1891 and was
scuttled by American troops in 1941 to
keep it out of Japanese hands. Other wrecks
include the Oryoku Maru (20m), the Seian
Maru (27m), El Capitan (20m), the 1898
wreck of the San Quintin (16m) and several
small patrol boats and landing craft. The
best time for water clarity is from February
to April.
Subic Bay Aqua Sports (%252 7343; sbas_inc@
hotmail.com; 249 Waterfront Rd; h 8am-5pm) is a
friendly and laid-back place with heaps
of knowledge and a good bar right on the
sand. Equipment rental for a day of diving
is US$30. For US$20 more, you can have a
divemaster lead you to the wrecks. It offers
PADI certification (US$300) and rents out
a range of water-sports equipment.
Networx Jetsports (%252 3469; Waterfront Rd;
h 9am-6pm) offers a full complement of
adrenaline-producing experiences, including parasailing (P1000) and jet-ski rentals
(P2800 per hour).
Baloy Long Beach, at the north end of baryo
Barretto, is probably the best beach in the
area. You can get here with the blue jeepney
from the Victory Liner terminal (P8). The
beaches are also good on Grande Island (day
admission with transport & lunch P1200), out in the
bay. Otherwise, the beaches near town are
fairly undesirable.
AROUND MANILA
AROUND MANILA
130 N O R T H O F MA N I L A O l o n g a p o & S u b i c B a y
132 N O R T H O F MA N I L A S a n Fe r n a n d o ( Pa m p a n g a )
Sleeping
The top hotels are all within the SBFZ.
Subic Park Hotel (%252 2092; www.subicparkhotel
place is a good choice in the SBFZ. Rooms
are large and comfortable and the most expensive have good bay views.
Courtyard Inn (%252 2366; www.courtyardinnsubic
.com; Waterfront Rd; r P2000-2650; ai) A wellrun place, the Courtyard is across from
the water and has 38 almost-new, well-appointed rooms. Its across from Networx
Jetsports small activities centre.
The Legenda group owns the Legenda
Hotel (%252 1888; www.subiclegend.com; Waterfront
Rd; r from US$95; as) and Grand Seasons Hotel
(%252 2888; www.subiclegend.com; Canal Rd; r from
US$95;as), both of which have casinos
and luxurious four-star amenities including

room service and the like. The former has
254 modern and comfortable rooms near
the water, while the latter is restrained in
dcor and somewhat oddly sited back closer
to Olongapo.
Ridgecrest Gardens Hotel (%222 2006; 15 Magsaysay Dr, Olongapo; r P650-1100; a) has 31 modern and comfortable rooms. As you add
expense, rooms include cable TV, fridges
and more. Its a good budget choice.
Eating
Most of the restaurants and bars from
Olongapos heyday are long gone. Newer
places are down by the water in the SBFZ,
or in the hotels.
Gerrys (%252 3021; Waterfront Rd; meals P150-500;
h11am-midnight) Right on the water, this spot
is part of a popular chain of casual Filipino
eateries with everything from burgers to haluhal (fruit preserves served with crushed ice,
ice cream and coconut milk). Theres a lively
bar and snappy, professional staff.
Sams Pizza (%222 3686; Magsaysay Dr; meals P70250; h10am-2am; a) Probably the best of the
pizza joints in town. It has live music many
evenings and a menu that includes pleasers
beyond pizza like sandwiches and pasta.
Entertainment
The casinos at the Legenda and Grand
Seasons Hotels, as well as the Subic Diamond
Casino (%252 0888; 408 Waterfront Rd) in the SBFZ
are heavily patronised by Chinese gamblers
brought in on cheap charter flights. All
charge P100 admission, and all are open

24 hours.

The only flights into Subic Bay International
Airport (%252 9360) are charter flights from
Asia filled with low-rolling gamblers.
Victory Liner (%222 2241) and Saulog Transit
(%02-825 2926 in Manila), both off Rizal Ave,
have buses at least once an hour between
Manila and Olongapo (P160, three to four
hours). Victory Liner also has buses to Balanga (P60, two hours).
Jeepneys in Olongapo are colour-coded.
Yellow jeepneys run along Rizal Ave to the
SBFZ main gate (P8). Blue jeepneys leave for
Subic village (P10), north of SBFZ, from the
street behind the Victory Liner terminal.
Ask at your lodging about renting a car.
There are several agencies, and rates average about P1800 per day without a driver.
SAN FERNANDO (PAMPANGA)

%045 / pop 221,900
The busy industrial town of San Fernando

not to be confused with San Fernando (La
Union), northwest of Baguio is the capital
of Pampanga province.
One of the main reasons people come
here is to see fanatical Christians taking
part in a crucifixion ceremony every Easter.
At noon on Good Friday, in barangay San
Pedro Cutud, volunteers with a penchant
for pain are nailed to wooden crosses and
whipped till they bleed.
Victory Liner and Saulog Transit buses
from Manila to Olongapo pass through
San Fernando; its two hours and about
P80 from either end. Jeepneys go north to
Angeles (P25, 30 minutes).
ANGELES & CLARK SPECIAL

ECONOMIC ZONE
%045 / pop 258,000
Angeles is a name synonymous with the

sex industry in the Philippines, even if the
actual red-light district is in the downtown
area of Balibago. The strip of tacky clubs
and bars is strung out along Fields Ave,
a pothole-filled road replete with broken
pavements and stagnant water. The 10,000
girls and women working now are only the
vestiges of the time before the American
pullout, when it was estimated that ten
times as many were employed.
N O R T H O F MA N I L A A n g e l e s & C l a r k S p e c i a l E c o n o m i c Z o n e 133
Angeles remains tied to the fortunes of

the US Air Forces former station, Clark
Airbase (now known as the Clark Special
Economic Zone). It is still an important
base for the Philippine Air Force and there
has been some success in luring new businesses, so Clark does not have the forlorn
air of some parts of Subic. Recent success
in luring bargain airlines here means that it
has new relevance for travellers as well.
Looming over everything is Mt Pinatubo,
whose 1991 eruption caused much destruction locally; the resulting lava wastelands
lure intrepid trekkers today.
Orientation & Information

Balibago (Angeles proper is 2km south)
doesnt consist of much more than Fields
Ave and its extension, Don Juico Ave. Large
jeepney stations and the main gate for Clark
(aka Checkpoint) are in close proximity to
Fields Ave, as are Internet cafs, banks and
shops. Dau, a useful transportation hub, is
just north of Clark.
ALONE IN ANGELES
Despite the efforts false or otherwise of
the women working in the bars and clubs,
Fields Ave is a pretty joyless place. Scores
of Western men, most a decade or three
older than their female companions, are
lost in solitude. Its not uncommon to see
a bar where every table has a lone Westerner, moodily sipping a beer, smoking a
cigarette and staring off into space. Some
are Europeans, obviously just here for the
sex; others are Americans, many of an age
that would have made it possible for them
to be at Clark and Angeles at the height
of the Vietnam War. Are they recalling a
time from their youth when they let loose
here with girls who looked the same but
were the mothers or grandmothers of the
current workers? Its hard to tell, as theyre
not talking amidst the neon glow and clamour of places with names like Doll House,
Bunny Ranch and Suckers.
Sleeping & Eating
AIR
There are dozens of cheap hotels along

Fields Ave and Don Juico Ave, but most
are geared to prostitution.
Clarkton Hotel (%892 6272; www.clarkton.com;
620 Don Juico Ave; r P1200-2000; ais) A bit
away from the bars, the Clarkton is large
and comfortable. Rooms have high-speed
Internet, and theres a decent restaurant.
Oasis Resort Complex (%893 3301; www.oasis
Discount airlines have discovered Diosdado

Macapagal International Airport (CRK)
in the Clark Special Economic Zone. The
terminal is modern but stark; there are no
ATMs, although there is plenty of parking.
Each of the airlines tends to run special buses
(fares about P350) to and from Manila.
The following airlines are among those flying into the Clark Special Economic Zone.
Air Asia (www.airasia.com) To Kuala Lumpur and Kota
hotel.com.ph; Don Juico Ave; r P1000-2200; ais)
The 124 rooms here actually do slightly

live up to the hotels name, in that they are
set back from the noisy street in a peaceful gated compound. The pool is huge and
theres a wide range of modern amenities,
including a business centre although the
open-air billiards area is oodles more fun.
Blu Bianco Suites (%599 3956; cnr CM Recto Hwy &
ML Quezon Ave; s/d P1320/2000; a) Located inside
Clark, this is a low-key, friendly place with a
restaurant. Its a quiet retreat far away from
the dubious charms of Angeles.

Angeles and Clark are under 90 minutes
from Manila by the North Luzon Expressway, but once in the big city, youll be
caught in the same traffic that probably
caused you to leave Manila.
Kinabalu, Malaysia.
CR Airways (www.crairways.com) To Hong Kong.
Tiger Airways (www.tigerairways.com) To Singapore.
BUS
Philippine Rabbit has air-con buses every

30 minutes from Rizal Ave (also called Avenida) in Manila to its terminal on Henson
St in Angeles village (P90, 90 minutes).
Victory Liner buses leave from EDSA (Manilas ring road) in Pasay City every hour
and travel via Angeles to the Mabalacat bus
terminal in Dau (P90, 90 minutes). Travel
times can soar during Manila traffic jams.
Getting Around
Jeepneys run between Dau, Angeles village
and Balibago (P5). Taxis into Clark can be
found at Checkpoint.
AROUND MANILA
AROUND MANILA
.com; 93 Moonbay Marina, Waterfront Rd; r P1750-3000;

as) Right on the water, this low-key
134 N O R T H O F MA N I L A M t Pi n a t u b o
AROUND MANILA
MT PINATUBO
For centuries, the residents of Angeles took
the nearby volcanoes of Mt Pinatubo and
Mt Arayat for granted. That changed suddenly on 15 June 1991, when Pinatubo, the
larger of the two volcanoes, literally blew
itself apart, sending a column of ash and
rock 40km into the air. The mountain lost
300m in height, and fine dust and fist-sized
fragments of rock rained down on nearby
Angeles, Clark Airbase and Subic Bay. Compounding the catastrophe, a savage typhoon
chose this moment to lash northern Luzon,
turning the ash into lethal lahar (mobile volcanic mud), which flooded downhill from
the volcano with dire consequences.
The easily eroded lahar flows have created
a stunning landscape around the volcano.
The Abacan and Pasig-Potrero Rivers have
cut channels through the sediment, leaving
towering pinnacles of lahar, hanging valleys
and canyons. In the dry season its possible
to wander for hours through the canyons or
even trek all the way to the volcano summit.
The starting point for the trip is at Santa
Juliana, about 40km from Angeles. Start at
the visitor assistance centre near the barangay hall; receive a briefing, and register and
pay for a Pinatubo permit (P50). Mountain
guides are mandatory, and Department of
Tourismaccredited ones can be arranged
here (from P500 for up to five people). Tips
or donations are gratefully received, and go
into a communal pot to pay for road repairs
and loans to farmers in the village.
You can hike all the way to the summit
(1760m) in the dry season (November to
135
May), but it will be a very long day as the

trek can take over eight hours one way. An
overnight trip is more advisable, but visitors will need to bring their own food and
camping equipment. Bring plenty of water
and dont go if it looks like it will rain.
Many people book tours and transport
through travel agents in Angeles, such as
Trend Transport (%045-332 1712; 1035 Fields Ave;
per person P3000). Power Up (%0908 902 0754, 02631 4675; from per person P1500), a climbing outfit
based in Manila, can also design and lead
hikes of the volcano.
Its fairly easy to arrange the trip yourself. The Santa Juliana Tourism Council (%0973
538 475) can set you up with guides, jeep rentals (from P1500) and homestays. You can
get here on a north-bound jeepney from
Angeles (P50); ask the driver to let you out
at the intersection for Santa Juliana. Then
take a tricycle (P60) into town.
These two locals have good reputations
for organising trips up Mt Pinatubo:
Jude Lenon (%0920 576 2769, 0920 803 5647)
Edwin Manalang (%0910 722 7575)
MT ARAYAT
Many people arriving in Angeles mistake
the towering volcanic cone of Mt Arayat
(1026m) for Pinatubo, as it dominates the
skyline. The volcano affords several halfday hikes to peaks on the crater rim, from
where there are stunning views over Pampanga province. Also here is a network
of swimming pools fed by a natural spring
which, legend has it, produces the purest
water on earth.

134
135
North Luzon
Generalisations fall short when describing this vast region of misty mountains, sprawling
plains and endless coastline, whose population is as diverse and unique as the landscape.
The central mountain range known as the Cordillera is the regions trophy piece, with lush
green forests blanketing vast areas of gloriously crooked earth. Isolated sandy beaches ring
almost the entire coastline. In the rice terraces of Banaue and elsewhere, humans and nature
have collaborated on one of the worlds truly sublime displays of beauty and ingenuity. Off Luzons northern tip, the grassy hills of the Batanes islands possess their own austere beauty.
North Luzon offers plenty to more sedentary types as well. Culture aficionados can get
their fill in Vigan, where old Spanish colonial mansions line the streets of the old town, and
history buffs can follow MacArthurs men on the wide beaches around Lingayen.
HIGHLIGHTS
Feasting your eyes on the awesome rice
terraces around Banaue (p170), Batad
(p173) and Bontoc (p167)
Taking a step back in time in the lovely
Mestizo District of Vigan (p145)
Chilling out for days or weeks in Sagada
(p162), aka backpacker HQ
Discovering a brave new world in Batanes
(p180), the Philippines final frontier
Vigan
Sagada
San Fernando
(La Union)
Chico
River
Pinacanauan
River
Banaue, Batad & Bontoc

Kabayan
Baguio
Braving the wild rapids on the Chico River

(p169) between Tinglayen and Tabuk
Baler
Taking in the ubiquitous acoustic guitar music

and cool mountain air of Baguio (p153)
Watching thousands of bats make their
early-evening pilgrimage over Pinacanauan
River (p179), near Tuguegarao
Getting up close and personal with the mummies of Kabayan (p161)
Surfing in San Fernando (La Union) (p142) or at the breaks around Baler, including famously
fickle Charlies Point (p176)
NOR TH LUZON
The region is an adventure-lovers paradise, with mountainous networks of ancient walking

trails perfect for trekking. Many of these trails lead to remote villages where tribespeople live
much as they have for centuries. There are endless caves in Cagayan province, endless whitewater rapids on Kalingas Chico River and endless surf breaks around the island. If you have
your own kayak, windsurfer or surf board, undiscovered breaks, beaches and rapids await.
136 N O R T H LU Z O N
N O R T H LU Z O N C l i m a t e 137
North Luzon
0
0
NORTH LUZON
100 km
60 miles
To Batanes
(110km)
Calayan
Island
Dalupiri
Island
BABUYAN
ISLANDS
Camiguin
Island
Fuga
Island
Bangui
Bay Pagudpud
Claveria
Ba
bu
y an
San Vicente
Macatel
Burgos
Santa
Ana
Abulug
ILOCOS
NORTE
Paoay
Aparri
Laoag
San Antonio
Suba
APAYAO
CAGAYAN
Baggao
Ca
an
INS
TA
UN
MO
LA
UNION
Bontoc
Hwy
I LL E
Sagada
l sema
Tagudin
C OR D
ILOCOS
SUR
Cervantes
RA
Namipit
Candon
Lubuagan
Tumauini
Tinglayan
MOUNTAIN
PROVINCE
Abatan
San
Mariano
NORTHERN
SIERRA
MADRE
NATURAL
PARK
TA
IN
Santiago
BENGUET Kiangan
Echague
San Juan
Kabayan
Mt Pulag
San Fernando
Ambuklao
National Bagabag
(La Union)
Caburreguis
Lake Mt Pulag Park
Solano
Bauang La Trinidad
(2922m)
Bayombong
Ambaguio
Bolinao
Baguio
Dilasag
Bambang
Lingayen
Binga
Aritao
Gulf
Agoo
Patar
Kasibu
QUIRINO
Lake
R
NUEVA
D Casiguran
Damortis
VIZCAYA
A
Hundred Islands
Dinalungan
Alaminos
Sinadipan M
Rosario
Santa Fe
National Park
San
Fabian
A
PANGASINAN
Palanan
Bay
Palanan
ISABELA
Naguilian
Lagawe
Divilican
Ilagan
Cauayan
Bacnotan
Bay
Maconacan
Balug
Roxas
Banaue
IFUGAO
Ha
Language
There are myriad languages spoken in
North Luzon, with dozens of dialects heard
in the Cordillera alone. The language jumble is most confusing in Kalinga, where just
about every village has its own dialect. In
the Cordillera, people are more likely to
understand Ilocano or even English than
the countrys national language, Filipino.
In the lowlands, the principal dialects are
Filipino and Ilocano, which is the predominant language not only in Ilocos but also
in Cagayan, Isabela and La Union. Other
common dialects include Pangasinan, common in the Lingayen Gulf area, and Sambal,
the language of the Zambales people.

There are sporadic shootouts between the
government and the New Peoples Army
(NPA) in mountainous areas of North
Luzon. Such violence usually occurs way
off the beaten track in provinces like Aurora and Isabela, and rarely, if ever, affects
tourists.
Tribal wars occasionally break out between villages in Kalinga and Mountain
Province. Not even the Philippine government bothers intervening in these squabbles, some of which go back centuries. The
last thing quarrelling tribes want to do is
involve tourists in their affairs; still, before
heading to Kalinga you may want to check
with the police in Bontoc to see if there are
any hot spots you should avoid.
Dinapique
UNDERGROUND MONEY Michael Grosberg & Mic Looby
NOR TH LUZON
ABRA
Santa
Maria
SOUTH
CHINA
SEA
Bangued
Tuguegarao & Falls

Airport
Peablanca
Tuguegarao
Maconacan
(1840m)
San Pablo
Cabagan
Divilican
Rive
Tuao
Balbalasang-Balbalan
National Park
Balbalan
Tabuk
KALINGA
Penarrubia
Vigan
Bluewater Cave
gay
Cabugao
Lowland areas of North Luzon adhere to the

standard Philippine monsoon climate, with a
long dry season from November to May and
a shorter wet season from June to October.
December and January are the most pleasant
months, with centigrade temperatures dropping into the low 20s and getting cooler and
drier the further north you go. The April-toJune period is brutally hot throughout the
lowlands. Typhoons start storming up the
Pacific in July but usually only make direct
hits on the northeast and Batanes. Beware:
you could get stranded for days in Batanes
when a typhoon gallops through. The rains
are most intense in August and September.
The highlands are a different story. The
Cordillera is liable to get rain any time of the
year, but the rains are particularly intense
from May to September and the higher the
elevation, the more intense the rains. Landslides often disrupt travel on the spectacular dirt highways of the Cordillera during
this time. Between November and February it can get quite cool in the highlands;
around Christmas, night-time temperatures
can drop into the single digits at elevations
over 1000m.
Dasol
Dasol
Bay
Dagupan
Lingayen
Urdaneta
Villasis
Carmen
San Carlos
Aguilar
Infanta
Santa
Cruz
M
ZA
Masinloc
Iba
Capas
Mt
Pinatubo
(1450m)
Maria
Aurora
Baler
Bay
Baler
AURORA
Gapan
PHILIPPINE
SEA
Dingalan
Dingalen
Bay
Angeles
INS
San Fernando
(Pampanga)
Balanga
MANILA
RIZAL
METRO
MANILA
QUEZON
Patnanungan
Island
it
BATAAN
Maldos
Polillo
Island
Stra
Olongapo
BULACAN
North Luzon
Expressway
ilo
PAMPANGA
Poll
Subic
Subic
Bay
TA
UN
San
Antonio
Pundaquit
Cabanatuan
Santa Rosa
ZAMBALES
Palayan
Tarlac
TARLAC
MO
Botolan
Capones
Island
NUEVA
ECIJA
Mt Tapulao
(2037m)
S
LE
BA
Palauig
Pantabangan
Lake
San
Jose
Bautista
Infanta
POLILLO
ISLANDS
Jomalig
Island
Its more than likely that before Japanese General Tomoyuki Yamashita was captured and executed in 1946, he organised the burial of billions of dollars worth of gold and other treasures
plundered from all over Southeast Asia during WWII. The story goes that the speedy American
advance prevented the Japanese from withdrawing their treasure. There are supposedly 172
documented burial sites, the majority in North Luzon.
As if the public coffers were not enough for him, some people say that ex-president Marcos
also supplemented his fortune by locating many of the sites. In 1998, a group of middle-aged
Philippine soldiers filed a claim in California and Zurich against the Marcos estate for their efforts
in unearthing an estimated 60,000 tonnes of gold and gemstones between 1973 and 1985. A
joint affidavit, signed by around 100 soldiers, accompanied the claim. These men were apparently members of Task Force Restoration, ostensibly formed to fight communist rebels, but
primarily engaged in massive diggings and excavations. This in turn spawned a secret government industry involved in melting down the gold to remove all traces of its origin, all helped
by Marcos martial law.
Even recently, a Japanese delegation allegedly searching for the bones of relatives in Isabela
were discovered by the government to actually be on a treasure hunt. No doubt there are many
amateurs, hucksters and con artists involved, but there are professionals as well, and enough
validity to some of the claims to keep them coming. The Philippine government isnt likely to discourage them either, since the law stipulates that its entitled to a hefty chunk of any findings.
NOR TH LUZON
Gattaran
Kabugao
Batac
Sta Teresita
Magapit
Santa Maria
Palaui
Island
e l
Cha nn
Climate
d P1500; a) in barangay San Narciso, 7km
Regular flights connect Manila with Basco

(Batanes), Tuguegarao, Laoag and Baguio.
Air-con buses link the major North Luzon
cities, while ordinary buses and jeepneys
ply the local routes.
Driving is a great way see Luzons more
remote regions, such as the Zambales coast
and the Cordillera. Keep in mind that youll
need a pretty good 4WD for the latter.
Elsewhere in the region the provincial
roads are packed with myriad obstacles:
kalabaw (water buffalo), naked toddlers,
homemade tractors, fornicating dogs, drying rice, funeral processions, maniacal bus
drivers, rogue poker games, jeepneys belching blinding black smoke, litters of swine,
gnawed fish bones hurtling out of car windows, burning brush, all manner of fowl,
and constantly emptying schoolyards.
You can rent cars in Manila (p114).
north of San Antonio on the National Hwy.

Part evangelical retreat, part surf camp, it
gives new meaning to the word bizarre, but
it does have boards (P500 per day) and surfing instruction (P450 for a half-day lesson)
on offer. From Manila these are your closest
surfing lessons. There are rooms here but
the place is a bit creepy; stay in Pundaquit
or, even better, in Botolan, 35km north.
There are a handful of resorts in
Pundaquit but the beach is too dirty and
crammed with fishing boats to be enjoyable. Noras Beach Resort (%0918 278 8188; d
P1500; pa), just north of Pundaquit, is
a quieter option with a less hectic beach.
Management can arrange dive trips to the
islands if you book ahead.
To get here from Olongapo or Manila,
take any bus heading toward Iba (opposite),
get off in San Antonio, then take a tricycle
4km to Pundaquit (P30).
ZAMBALES COAST
If youre looking to escape Manila for a
few days, the closest beach resorts by car
are on this lonely 100km stretch of coastline west of Mt Pinatubo. The resorts here
tend to fill up with videoke-loving locals
during the Philippine summer months of
March to May, but at other times youll
have them to yourself. On the eastern side
of the Zambales province, the Zambales
Mountains provide scenery, myriad waterfalls and, when the weathers not too hot,
excellent hiking.
PUNDAQUIT
%047 / pop 1800
The main draw in this small fishing barangay southwest of San Antonio is Capones
Island, which has an old Spanish lighthouse,
good snorkelling and a beautiful white-sand
beach. The island has decent surfing for experienced riders from July to October. You
can rent bangka from resorts or fishermen
in Pundaquit and spend half a day cruising
around Capones Island and neighbouring
Camera Island for around P450.
Steer clear of Pundaquit on weekends
from March to May, when city-dwelling
Filipinos descend en masse.
If you want to learn to surf, head to Crystal
Beach Resort (%913 4309; www.crystalbeach.com.ph;
BOTOLAN & IBA

%047 / pop 34,500
These neighbouring towns, about 45km

north of San Antonio, have the best beach
resorts in Zambales and are convenient bases
for hikes in the Zambales Mountains.
Among the best hiking destinations in
the region are Mt Tapulao (High Peak; 2037m),
the highest mountain in the Zambales range;
Koto Mining River and its many waterfalls; and
the Aeta village of Cabatuan. The tourism office
(Capitol Building, Iba) and staff in most resorts can
help you out with directions and/or locating
guides.
Ally-Com (per hr P20), on the main road in
Iba, has high-speed Internet access.
In Masinloc, 15km north of Iba, youll
find Stingray Diving Resort (%821 1624; www.bay
side-resort.com), the areas only diving facility.
Sleeping
BOTOLAN
Botolans beaches are cleaner, nicer and

quieter than those in Iba.
Rama Beach Resort (%0918 910 1280; www.rama
beach.com; d P1195, cottages with fan/air-con P600/1295;
pais) Decent accommodation, at-
tractive grounds, and a nice restaurant with

a library and pool table are the highlights of
this Australian-owned resort, 8km south of
Botolan proper. Deep-sea fishing is on offer
(P1500 per half-day).
West Coast Beach Resort (%0917 732 0716; west

coast_beach@yahoo.com; d P1200; pas) This
Norwegian-owned outfit has better rooms
than neighbouring Rama, but the grounds
are not as nice. Its 8km south of Botolan
proper.
Botolan Wildlife Farm (%0917 734 2206; www
.botolanwildlifefarm.com; Barangay San Juan; r P650; p)
For a change of pace stay at this quirky little

menagerie nestled at the foot of the Zambales Mountains. Eccentric Swiss zoologist
Martin Zoller has created a humane sanctuary for an array of rescued beasts, including
a massive Siberian tiger. The rooms have a
shared balcony with great views of the animal pens and the mountains beyond. To get
there take a tricycle (P40) 4km east from a
well-marked turn-off on the National Hwy,
just south of Botolan centre.
L I N G AY E N G U L F B o l i n a o & Pa t a r B e a c h 139
The gulf played a central role in WWII. In

December 1941, invading Japanese troops
made their first major amphibious landing
in the Philippines along the coast south of
Bauang, La Union. Three years later, liberating American forces came ashore a bit
further west of that, at Lingayen.
The gulfs water tends to be murky, and
the coral reefs have been all but destroyed
by dynamite and cyanide fishing. Still,
theres no shortage of beach resorts scattered along the coastline from Bolinao to
San Fernando (La Union). The latter has
long been one of the most popular resort
destinations in Luzon, drawing an odd mix
of families, surfers and those keeping the
sex trade alive.
BOLINAO & PATAR BEACH

%075 / pop 61,000
IBA
The best resorts in Iba are to the north in

barangay Bangantalinga.
Palmera Garden Beach Resort (% 811 2109;
www.palmeragarden.com; Bangantalinga; d P1250; p
ais) This Swiss-owned resort is by far
the most service-oriented in the vicinity.

There is a large open-air restaurant with
an eclectic menu and tasty food. The rooms
are a bit institutional, but are well kept.
Lindamar (%02-412 4803 in Manila; Bangantalinga;
d P1200-1500; pa) This is a French-owned
place with bright, funky rooms surrounding an attractive, leafy courtyard. Lindamar
runs snorkelling trips to a reef 300m offshore (P30 per person).

Victory Liner (%811 1392) has air-con buses
every half hour to Pasay, Sampaloc and
Caloocan in Manila (P280, six hours) via
Olongapo (P116, two hours). Victory Liner
also heads north every half hour to Alaminos (P110, three hours) and Lingayen
(P150, four hours), with a bus transfer in
Santa Cruz.
LINGAYEN GULF
Great sunsets and rolling breakers are the
hallmarks of the Lingayen (leen-gay-en)
Gulf, which dominates the coastline of Pangasinan Province, birthplace of Philippine
national hero Jos Rizal.
Bolinao once played a key role in the galleon

trade, and there are said to be various sunken
Chinese junks and Mexican merchant vessels lying offshore. Today it is a somewhat
dull, albeit friendly, provincial town.
If you come out this way, your destination will likely be Patar Beach, a long stretch
of narrow sand linking Bolinao with barangay Patar, 18km to the south. Its not great
swimming until you make it all the way to
Patar centre, where beautiful White Beach,
overlooked by the towering Spanish-built
Cape Bolinao Lighthouse, awaits you.
Information
The only reliable Internet connection is
Chips & Discs (A Celino St, Bolinao; per hr P40). There
are a couple of banks in town that change
dollars, but there are no ATMs.
Sights & Activities

Built by the Augustinians in 1609, the Church
of St James in the town plaza is notable for its
Mexican influence. On its antique altar are
two protruding-tongue, Aztec-like statues
said to have been brought to Bolinao by early
traders. The wooden santo (religious statues)
on the churchs faade are also rare, as many
santo in the Philippines have been pilfered.
Visitors are welcome at the laboratory of
the University of the Philippines Marine Science
Institute (%554 2755; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri; admission
free), about 1.5km beyond Bolinao wharf on
the road toward Santiago Island. Researchers here have cultivated coral-producing
NOR TH LUZON
NOR TH LUZON
138 Z A M B A L E S C OA S T Pu n d a q u i t
140 L I N G AY E N G U L F H u n d re d I s l a n d s N a t i o n a l Pa r k
L I N G AY E N G U L F H u n d re d I s l a n d s N a t i o n a l Pa r k 141
Lingayen Gulf
giant clams and transplanted them to clam

gardens in Hundred Islands National Park
and off Santiago Island. The institute can
arrange snorkelling trips to the gardens, or
you can check out the clams and/or local
shipwrecks with Cape Bolinao Diving Centre
(%554 2658; A Celino St, Bolinao).
Sleeping & Eating

Unless otherwise indicated, rooms do not
have hot water.
sort would be unique anywhere, but it truly

stands out in this hard-to-reach spot, 17km
from Bolinao. The cavernous suites in the
main building are honeymoon-ready, with
marble floors, ocean views and exquisite
furniture. The doubles and the stilted cottages, set around a pool, are more basic, but
theres nothing basic about the grounds,
which feature a maze of elevated paths that
snake over the ocean. The beach down here
is powdered-sugar soft.
Bings Beach Resort (%0921 280 7142; nipa huts
P1200, d with air-con P1500; p) Thirteen kilometres south of Bolinao, this is the best budget
place if only because its the closest to
White Beach in this price range. Bring your
own food or order from town.
Also recommended:
Dutch Beach Resort (%0920 732 4376; d with
fan/air-con P1500/2000; p) Good midrange option with
attractive rooms. Its 12km south of Bolinao.
CHINA
SEA
White Beach
Bunton
Patar
Culang
Catubig
Dolores
Zaragoza
Cabarruyan
Island
Anda
See
Enlargement
Pingan
Quiep
Banog
Bani
San
Vicence
The friendly and useful Hundred Islands National Park office (%551 2505; www.alaminoscity
.gov.ph; h8am-5pm) is on the wharf in barangay Lucap, the jumping-off point to the
national park. The office collects the park
entrance fees (P40) and camping fees, and
publishes official rates for hiring boats to
the islands.
Equitable PCI, BPI (Bank of the Philippine Islands) and Metrobank have ATMs
in Alaminos, and there are a couple of Internet cafs.
Scout
Island
Marcos
Island
Childrens
Island
Santa
Lucia
Tubao
To Baguio
(30km)
Santa
Barbara
Agoo
Santo Tomas
Braganza
Island
Rosario
Junction
To Tarlac (80km);
Angeles (120km);
Manila (200km)
Telbang
Lingayen Gulf
San Fabian
Cabalitian
Island
Mangaldan
Suai
Mabini
Burgos
Dagupan
PANGASINAN
Labrador
Dasol
To Santa Cruz
(15km); Iba (65km);
San Antonio (115km);
Subic (140km)
To Baguio
(40km)
Governors
Island
Lucap
Agno
LA
UNION
Damortis
Quirino
Island
HUNDRED
ISLANDS
NATIONAL
PARK
Alaminos
Dasol
Bay
BENGUET
To Bauang (10km);
San Fernando
(20km)
Pogo
%075
Information
Quezon
Island
Clave
Island
Aringay
Binmaley
Lingayen
Calasiao
San Jacinto
Manaoag
Mapandan
Santa Barbara
To Aguilar (4km);
Tarlac (65km);
Manila (185km)
To Urdaneta
(5km); Manila
(178km)
Bugallon
San Carlos
Malasiqui
Sights & Activities
Sleeping & Eating
The three most popular islands are Quezon

Island, Governors Island and Childrens Island,
but youre definitely better off finding your
own island on weekends, as these fill up
with loads of large families and beach vendors. The beaches on these main islands
are nothing special, although Governors
Island has a nice lookout point.
By far the best way to experience the park
is in a tandem kayak. Arrange for your boat
operator to bring kayaks out to the islands,
or rent one on Quezon Island (either way
the cost is P250 per hour). You can rent full
snorkelling gear (P250 per day) from the
Hundred Islands National Park office or
from your boat operator. You can snorkel at
one of the giant-clam sites but they are hard
to find; get directions from the park office.
A welcome new addition to the oncemoribund area is the 100 Islands Ocean Sports
Centre (%551 2246), on the waterfront in
Lucap. The American owner offers parasailing and deep-sea fishing trips, and has
plans to rent windsurfers and open a dive
centre.
You can camp anywhere in the national

park for P100 to P300, depending on the
tents size. Childrens Island has four simple, two-person nipa huts (P650 per hut)
with no electricity. Governors Island has a
guesthouse (P2200) that sleeps six to eight
and has electricity. Bring your own food
and supplies. Make reservations and pay at
the Hundred Islands National Park office
in Lucap.
Lucaps overpriced, substandard hotels
are a major impediment to the areas development. They are all on the same harbour
road near the wharf and there is little to
distinguish between them.
Vista de las Islas (%551 4455; vistadelasislas@yahoo
.com; d P1500; pa) This is the most modern
place on this strip.
Seaside Haven (%551 2711; nipa huts/d P1300/
1500; pa) This spot has a few small, whiteclapboard nipa huts over the river at the far
end of the strip.
Teds by the Sea (%551 2160; d P1500; pa)
This friendly place has a good location,
right on the water.
NOR TH LUZON
Treasures of Bolinao (%02-375 8884 in Manila; d/cottage/ste P2500/3000/4500; pa) This luxury re-
SOUTH
Bolinao
1 km
0.5 miles
HUNDRED Cathedral
Island
ISLANDS
ver
PATAR BEACH
0
0
Cape Bolinao
Lighthouse
HUNDRED ISLANDS NATIONAL PARK

This small national park off the coast of
Alaminos, 35km southeast of Bolinao, actually contains 123 separate islets, although
some are just large rocks. Over the centuries the tides have eaten away at the bases
of these limestone islands, giving them a
distinctive, mushroom-like appearance.
You have to take a boat out to the parks
most distant islands to find relatively clear
water, but even there the snorkelling isnt
terrific, as destructive fishing methods, a few
nasty typhoons and El Nio have ruined the
parks coral and reduced its marine life.
The Alaminos city government took control of the park in 2005. Speedboats now patrol the parks waters 24/7 in search of illegal
fishermen. Meanwhile, the Philippine Tourism Authority (PTA) and the University of
the Philippines Marine Science Institute in
Bolinao have placed giant clams, some over
1m long, in strategic locations around the
islands in an effort to hasten the return of
marine life to the area. But it will still take
several decades for the coral to recover.
20 km
12 miles
Caba
Santiago
Island

Victory Liner, Dagupan Bus and Five Star
have several morning buses and a couple
of afternoon buses to and from Cubao and
Pasay in Manila (P380, seven hours).
There are plenty of minibuses and jeepneys to Alaminos (P40, 45 minutes).
The dirt road to Patar centre (which
starts at A Celino St) is served by infrequent
jeepneys and tricycles (P300 return).
0
0
LINGAYEN GULF
i
o R
El Piscador (%554 2559; s/d P1000/1500; pa)

These rooms are the best deal in town, especially the singles, which have attractive
dark-wood trim and furniture, and enough
space for two people. To find it, follow the
main road to past the church and turn left
down a marked sidestreet after 200 metres.
Sundowner (%554 4203; d P1500; pa) In
addition to being the finest restaurant in
Bolinao by a considerable margin, this outdoor seafood eatery on the wharf has two
third-floor rooms that are spotless, private
and rarely occupied.
Tummy Teasers (%554 4608; A Celino St) and
Short Time (%554 2984; E de Piero St) deliver
cheap eats to the restaurant-free resorts on
Patar Beach.
d with/without hot water P2500/2000; pa) Nice but

overpriced. Its 11km south of Bolinao.
Agn
NOR TH LUZON
BOLINAO
Garden Paradise Resort (%02-404 0767 in Manila;
142 L I N G AY E N G U L F L i n g a y e n
L I N G AY E N G U L F S a n Fe r n a n d o ( L a U n i o n ) & A r o u n d 143
San Fernando (La Union) & Around
Zandue
P Tave
ta St
ra St
ro St
(National Hwy)
Centennial
Park
Santa
Rosa
Rd
Bethany
Hospital
zag
n Ave
Quezo
Gov Luce
Zamora St
19
Tabok
15
Provincial
Capitol Building
Freedom
Park 3
rre
Ili Norte
ro
San Juan
Rd
0
0
200 m
0.1 miles
San Juan
Municipality
Urbiztondo
20
SOUTH
CHINA
SEA
NOR TH LUZON
Ag
uil
a
Rd
bin
Ma
St
rtega
St
11
a Hwy
Zig
rte
Ola
Gomez
Widdoes St
PN
R
Osias
St
St
Don
Joaq
uin S
t
Do
AB
a
Pac
on
aS
ifac
t
io
Rd
Gov O
St
o Orteg
18
er
St
Francisc
To San
Gabriel
(5km)
Riv
Town
Plaza
Baroro
ro
i St
17
City
Hall
ro
ncheta
21
Ba
St
Gen Luna
Gov A
Ave
22
Bacnotan
7
13
16
Lingsat
4
INFORMATION
DOT Region I Office............................1 D5
Masters............................................(see 17)
San Fernando Regional Immigration
Office..............................................2 C5
Carlatan
La Union Botanic
Garden (2.5km)
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

Heroes Hill............................................3 B3
Ma-Cho Temple....................................4 B1
Ocean Deep Diver Training Centre.....(see 6)
1
San Fernando
Airport
Pagdalagan
Norte
wy
al H
14
10
ion
ort Rd
DRINKING
Cafe Esperanza...................................18 B2
Zigzag Music Lounge..........................19 B2
24
Nat
EATING
Mandarin............................................17 B2
Oasis Sushi Bar.................................(see 10)
See enlargement
Poro
Point
Airp
D6
D6
C3
B1
D6
D5
B2
C5
C3
C6
D3
C4
San Fernando
(La Union)
%072 / pop 102,000
SLEEPING
Bali Hai Beach Resort........................... 5
Coconut Grove Beach Resort............... 6
Hacienda Beach Resort Inn...................7
Hotel Mikka..........................................8
Long Beach Resort Hotel......................9
Oasis Country Resort......................... 10
Plaza Hotel.........................................11
Sea and Sky Hotel & Restaurant.........12
SeBay Resort......................................13
Sunset Bay Beach Resort.................... 14
Sunset German Beach Resort............. 15
Surf Resort.........................................16
12
eac
yB
a oa Rd
Can
The beaches here are a bit more inviting

and have better facilities than those around
Gov Lu
na
Osmea
St
Hwy)
%075 / pop 66,000
SAN FERNANDO (LA UNION) &

AROUND
The provincial capital of La Union, San
Fernando is known for the dozens of beach
resorts that dot the coastline north and
south of the city. To the south lies Bauang
(ba-wahng), which until 1991 was the party
destination of choice for US military personnel stationed at nearby Wallace Air Station.
os St
Old Market
SAN FABIAN
Rizal
23
P Burg
New
Market

Five Star has one direct bus per day to
and from Pasay, Manila (P382, six hours).
Dagupan Bus, Victory Liner and Five Star
have regular buses from Manila to nearby
Dagupan (P300, 5 hours), from where its
easy to catch a jeepney or minibus to San
Fabian (P20, 30 minutes).
You can get a tricycle to take you from
the town centre to the resorts.
D
To Vigan (120km);
Laoag (200km)
Gu
The provincial capital of Pangasinan is best

known as the site where US troops came
ashore to liberate Luzon in January 1945,
thus fulfilling General MacArthurs famous
pledge, I shall return. The small open-air
Lingayen Gulf War Memorial Museum, on the
beachfront near the capital building, pays
tribute to the soldiers with pictures of the
US landing and other interesting wartime
photos. Theres also an American fighter
plane on display.
Lingayens coastline comes alive every
1 May with a raucous waterborne parade
in celebration of Pistay Dayat, a fiesta that
pays homage to local fishermen. Outside of
festival week youll have little reason to stay
overnight here. Youre better off continuing
on to San Fabian (P40, 1 hours) by bus or
jeepney via Dagupan (P20, 45 minutes).
ordinary but the restaurant has a decent

restaurant that serves Mexican and American dishes. Its beach is right next to the
hectic public beach.
San Fabian Yacht Club (Nibaliw River; a) This
American-style bar-and-grill occupies a
pleasant spot on the banks of the Nibaliw
River.
St
al
Ave (Nation
%075 / pop 89,000
Nibaliw; cottages with fan & cold water P1150, r with air-con
& hot water P1600; ps) The rooms here are
era
Quezon
This is the last resort on the strip in Nibaliw.

Its rooms are far superior to the others
here and only slightly more expensive. The
grounds and services are also a cut above,
and theres a pleasant open-air restaurant
that serves elaborate fruity cocktails.
San Fabian PTA Beach Resort (%523 6502; Bolasi;
d/cottage P1700/2200; pas) This elaborate,
sprawling compound was once a haunt of
Ferdinand Marcos. Everything about it is leviathan the rooms, the grounds and the
extra-wide beach. It has a slightly dated feel.
Lazy A Beach Resort (%511 5014; fax 522 3084;
3 km
2 miles
Cabaroan
Riv
e St
From Manila, take any bus to Bolinao (Victory Liner, Dagupan Bus and Five Star have
several morning buses and a couple of afternoon buses from Cubao and Pasay) and get
off in Alaminos (P330, six hours).
Victory Liner goes to Baguio (P126, 3
hours, eight per day), and has buses every
half hour to Iba (P110, three hours) and
Olongapo (P170, five hours) with a bus
transfer in Santa Cruz.
Its a 10-minute tricycle ride (P40, 5km)
from Alaminos centre to Lucaps hotels.
Hiring a boat from Lucap to Hundred
Islands National Park costs P900 return for
a 15-passenger boat to the main islands,
and P600 return for a five-passenger boat.
Island-hopping costs a couple of hundred
extra.
Sierra Vista Beach Resort (%511 2023; sierravista

beachresort@yahoo.com; Nibaliw; d P1750; pas)
LINGAYEN
Sleeping & Eating
0
0
SAN FERNANDO (LA UNION) & AROUND
St
Dagupan and Lingayen. Next to the town

proper is barangay Nibaliw, where a few
resorts flank a wide, grey-sand beach on
one side and the small Nibaliw River on the
other. The beach at barangay Bolasi, 4km
north, is quieter and even wider.
Gov Nisc
NOR TH LUZON
Hundred Islands Pension House (%551 2505;

dm/d/q P250/800/1100; a) This formerly tatty
government-run outfit on the wharf is looking better after a renovation in early 2006.
Maxine By The Sea (%551 2537) This popular
seafood restaurant over the water is a relaxing place to watch the sunset and snack on
tasty fried calamari.
SanVicente
Rd
Pagudpud
Pagdalagan
Sur
TRANSPORT
Dominion Bus Lines............................20
Jeepneys to San Juan..........................21
Minibuses to Baguio & Vigan..............22
Partas Bus Terminal............................23
Philippine Rabbit Bus Terminal........... 24
B3
B1
B2
B1
D5
Bauang
Municipality
Paringao
6
To Bauang proper (1km);
Baguio (55km);
Manila (260km)
9
144 L I N G AY E N G U L F S a n Fe r n a n d o ( L a U n i o n ) & A r o u n d
While Bauang is struggling to hold on to

the remnants of its vice-laced heyday, San
Juan to the north has carved out a niche as a
good place to learn surfing. The surf season
is October to March.
Information
Metrobank, Equitable PCI and BPI have branches with ATMs
along Quezon Ave. DOT Region I Office (Department of
Tourism; %888 2411; National Hwy; h8am-5.30pm)
Next to Oasis Country Resort.
Masters (%888-3003; Quezon Ave; per hr P25;
h8am-9pm) One of many Internet cafs in town; above
Mandarin restaurant.
Regional immigration office (%888 4515; Royal
Bowling Center, Mabini St; h8am-noon & 1-5pm MonFri) A quick, painless place to get your visa extended.
The striking Taoist and Catholic Chinese

Ma-Cho Temple sits atop a hill just north of
San Fernando. The original image of the
Virgin of Caysasay, the patroness of San
Fernandos Filipino-Chinese community, is
brought to the temple from Taal, Batangas,
in the second week of September as part
of the week-long activities in celebration
of the Feast of the Virgin (a replica is on
display for the rest of the year).
Freedom Park, near the provincial Capitol
Building, has spectacular views of the city.
You can access it via Zigzag Rd or walk the
153 steps up Heroes Hill, which is lined with
statues of Philippine national heroes and
presidents.
The sprawling La Union Botanic Garden (admission P15; h8am-5pm), 6.5km east of the city,
has pavilions and a variety of plant life.
The Ocean Deep Diver Training Center (%888
4440; www.oceandeep.biz; 1-/2-tank dive US$30/60) at
Coconut Grove Beach Resort can arrange
scuba-diving trips. Fagg Reef is the marquee destination around here.
Sleeping
The beach is much wider and nicer in San
Juan. Theres more happening in Bauang.
The cheapest hotels are in San Fernando.
You choose.
SAN FERNANDO
Sea and Sky Hotel & Restaurant (%242 5579; fax

242 3869; Quezon Ave; d P900; pais) Spectacular ocean views from the restaurant
balcony are on offer here. The basement
rooms are unexpectedly comfortable, and

the staff are friendly and helpful.
Oasis Country Resort (%242 5621; www.oasis
countryresort.com; National Hwy; s/d/casitas P2000/2500/
2700; pnais) This is the most mod-
ern and service-oriented hotel in the entire

Lingayen Gulf area, with sizable, if standard, doubles and a few poolside casitas (little
houses). It also has the delicious Oasis Sushi
Bar. Its 1km south of the city centre.
Sunset Bay Beach Resort (%888 4843; sunsetbay
resort@yahoo.com; Barangay Canaoay; d P1000; pa
i) This is the best of several options on
the beach near Poro Point, San Fernandos

red-light district. The beach here is wider,
quieter and nicer than in Bauang. The rooms
are large, clean and good value.
Two perfectly fine but noisy budget options right downtown are Hotel Mikka (%242
5737; mikka@sflu.com; Quezon Ave; s/d P675/900; na)
and Plaza Hotel (%888 2996; fax 242 5760; Quezon
Ave; s with fan P450, d with air-con P750; i).
SAN JUAN
Sunset German Beach Resort (%720 2698; www

.sunsetgermanbeach.com; d with fan/air-con P550/750; p)
This small, lush resort has a few extremely

cosy and attractive rooms with exposed
brickwork. Its about 4km north of the main
surf break, but the beach here gets waves too
and you can rent a surfboard for P60 per
hour a third the price youll pay elsewhere.
To get here take a jeepney bound for Bacnotan from San Fernando (P10, 6km) and a
tricycle from the main highway (P15, 2km).
SeBay Resort (%242 5484; www.sebay.cjb.net; d
with fan/air-con P550/800; p) Located right on
the surf break, this is a popular place to
hang out, with a couple of pool tables and
dartboards on the ground floor of the Viganesque main lodge. The rooms are basic,
but are clean for this neck of the woods.
Surf Resort (%720 0340; d with fan/air-con P550/800;
p) Run by Aussie Brian Landrigan, a 20year veteran of the area, this is surfing HQ.
You can rent surfboards (P200 per hour)
and buy any other surfing supplies you need.
The rooms, however, have seen better days.
Hacienda Beach Resort Inn (%242 1109; d with
fan/air-con P500/700; p) A step up from camping, but by no means a giant step.
BAUANG
Long Beach Resort Hotel (%242 0609; lbrh@sflu.com;

d with fan/air-con P700/800; p) This place has
plenty going for it: its the best deal in

Bauang. Its on the bigger, better south
end of the beach; its a bit more familyoriented than some of its neighbours; and
it serves cold San Miguel in attractive beer
huggies. The rooms are sparse but large,
and the comfortable beachside restaurant
has nightly live music and theme meals like
Tuesday pasta night (P175). Oh yeah, and
theres also a small store that sells exactly 13
pairs of ugly sneakers.
Bali Hai Beach Resort (%242 5679; www.bali
I L O C O S V i g a n 145
Partas and Philippine Rabbit go north to

Laoag (P296, 5 hours) via Vigan (P190,
3 hours) regularly until midnight.
Minibuses to Baguio (P65, 1 hours) and
Vigan (P150, 3 hours) leave frequently
from Gov Luna St.
Jeepneys to Bauang and San Juan can be
picked up along Quezon Ave (P9).
ILOCOS
hai.com.ph; d/cottage incl breakfast P1650/2550;

pais) The doubles here are basic,
VIGAN
so upgrade to one of the nice two-room cottages scattered around the grounds if you
can afford it. Although the cottages have
kitchens, theres also a great beachfront
restaurant that offers German, English and
Indonesian specialties.
Coconut Grove Beach Resort (% 888 4276;
Spanish-era mansions, cobblestone streets

and kalesa (horse-drawn carriages) are the
hallmarks of historic Vigan. Miraculously
spared bombing in WWII, the city is considered the finest surviving example of a Spanish colonial town in Asia. In 1999, Vigan was
designated a Unesco World Heritage site.
resort@coco.com.ph; d P1200-1700; pais )
This bungalow-style resort has a large pool,

a pleasant Thai-oriented restaurant, lawn
bowling and the only dive centre in the area.
The deluxe rooms are especially large.
Eating & Drinking

The best places to eat in San Juan and
Bauang are the resorts.
Oasis Sushi Bar (%242 5621/28; National Hwy) At
the Oasis Country Resort, this yummy restaurant has nightly all-you-can eat buffets
from 6pm. Tuesday is Thai night (P345);
Friday is a Mongolian buffet (P325).
Mandarin (Quezon Ave; mains P120; a) Head
to this spot for good Chinese food in San
Fernando.
Caf Esperanza (Gomez St; sandwiches under P100)
Overlooking the town plaza, this caf serves
sandwiches, pastries and coffee in a nice
relaxed atmosphere.
Zigzag Music Lounge (Zigzag Rd; meals P150, sashimi
platter P125; a) This scenic lounge serves Filipino food and sashimi. Beware: the karaoke
here is strictly varsity.
Theres plenty of entertainment on Pennsylvania Ave out by Poro Point, most of it
less than wholesome.

Partas (%242 0465; Quezon Ave), Dominion (%888
2997; Quezon Ave) and Philippine Rabbit (%888
2035; Quezon Ave) have air-con buses to Manila
(P350, six hours) at least once an hour.
%077 / pop 45,000
History
Located near where the Govantes River
meets the South China Sea, Vigan became
a convenient stop on the Silk Route, which
linked Asia, the Middle East and Europe,
and a thriving trading post where gold, logs
and beeswax were bartered for goods from
around the world.
In 1572, Spanish conquistador Juan de
Salcedo (grandson of Miguel Lopez de
Legazpi, one of the first conquistadors) took
possession of the bustling international port.
Salcedo became the lieutenant governor of
the Ilocos region, and Vigan became the
centre of the political, religious and commercial activities of the north. It became a
hotbed of dissent against the Spanish when,
in 1762, Diego Silang captured Vigan and
named it the capital of Free Ilocos. He was
eventually assassinated (the Spanish paid a
close friend of Silang to shoot him in the
back), and his wife, Gabriela Silang, took
over. The first woman to lead a revolt in
the Philippines, she was eventually captured
and publicly hanged in the town square.
The city avoided destruction in WWII
when Japanese troops fled the city just
ahead of American carpet bombers, who
aborted their mission at the last second.
Orientation
Vigan has two main squares located near
each other on the north end of town: Plaza
NOR TH LUZON
NOR TH LUZON
Sights & Activities
146 I L O C O S V i g a n
I L O C O S V i g a n 147
Vigan
0
0
City
Flor
entin Hall
o S
t
Plaza
Burgos
22
Jacinto
t
go S
a Cri
solo
t
yes S
Die
go
V de
los Re
ion S
19
ng
St
Sila
St
Men
rnac
17
yes
Plari
A Re
Ave
12
Enca
Jose
St
Public
Market
21
15
Re
t
del S
ini S
t
25
o Blvd
na St
Sikatu
St
23
Sing
Rizal
Alc
an
tar
a
16
13
son
St
Cemetery
Jacinto
r St
Pila
n Ave
Quezo
do S
t
26
3 24
Salce
Mab
n Blv
d
14
Ge
nT
ini
27
Mestizo
Bridge
oS
28
SLEEPING
Cordillera Inn.............................13
El Juliana....................................14
Gordion Inn...............................15
Grandpa's Inn............................16
Vigan Heritage
Mansion...............................17
Vigan Plaza
Hotel....................................18
Villa Angela...............................19
C2
C3
C2
C2
C3
C1
C3
EATING
Caf Leona................................20 C2
Salcedo, dominated by St Paul Cathedral,

and the more lively Plaza Burgos, where locals stroll and hang out.
The Mestizo District is bounded roughly
by Plaza Burgos, Gov A Reyes St, Quirino
Blvd and Abaya St. Most of the tourist shops
are on Mena Crisologo St, which has been
immaculately restored and is closed to vehicular traffic, giving it an old-Europe feel.
The main commercial drag is tricyclecongested Quezon Ave, which runs south to
the cemetery and the public market.
Information
Theres an Equitable PCI bank on Plaza
Maestro, but most banks with functioning
ATMs are clustered on Quezon Ave.
er
20
Gov
Gom
NOR TH LUZON
a St
MESTIZO DISTRICT
iv
18
2
DRINKING
Bistro.........................................21 C2
Cafera del Maestro....................22 C1
struction of the original wooden, thatched

church is believed to have been supervised
by Salcedo himself in 1574.
To Camanggaan
(5km)
SHOPPING
Cristy's.......................................23 C2
Mira Furniture............................24 C2
Rowilda's...................................25 C2
TRANSPORT
Dominion Bus Lines Terminal.....26 B3
Minibuses to Bangued................27 B3
Partas Bus Terminal....................28 A3
Click Internet Caf (V de los Reyes St; per hr P25;

h8am-midnight) Internet access.
Ilocos Sur Tourism Information Center (%722

8520; 1 Mena Crisologo St; h8am-noon & 1-5pm) In
the ancestral home of poet Leona Florentino, this is a good
source of information on the region. It offers free guided
tours of Vigan.
Post Office (cnr Bonifacio St & Gov A Reyes St)
SNP Cyberzone (cnr Bonifacio St & Jacinto St; per hr P25;
h8am-midnight) Internet access.
Sights
ST PAUL CATHEDRAL
This church (Burgos St) was built in earthquake

baroque style (ie thick-walled and massive)
after an earlier incarnation was damaged
by two quakes in 1619 and 1627. The con-
Vigans old town, popularly known in the

past as Kasanglayan (Where the Chinese
Live), contains the largest concentration
of ancestral homes and other colonial-era
architecture. The colonial mansions here
were built by Chinese merchants who settled, intermarried and, by the 19th century,
became the citys elite.
Although generally considered Spanish,
the architecture is actually a combination of
Mexican and Chinese styles, with Filipino
flourishes such as sliding capiz-shell windows. Believe it or not, these elegant structures evolved from the nipa huts popular
among indigenous tribes in the Cordillera
and elsewhere. The ground floor has stone
walls and is strictly for storage and/or work,
while the wooden first floor, with its large,
airy sala, is for living. The capiz-shell windows are as tall as doors, while the wide
windowsills are good spots for a siesta. The
capiz is a flat bivalve found in the coastal
waters of the Philippines. It came into
fashion in the 19th century because it was
cheaper than glass and sturdy enough to
withstand typhoon winds and rain.
While a couple of mansions have been
converted into B&Bs or museums, most are
private homes. You can knock on the door
(note the hand-shaped brass knockers on
some doors) and see if the owner will give you
a tour, but theres no guarantee. The other
option is to call the Tourism Information
Center (opposite) a few days in advance and
see if the staff can arrange something. Two
houses to look out for are the Quema House
and the Syquia Mansion on Quirino Blvd.
MUSEUMS
The Crisologos, Vigans most prominent

political dynasty, have converted their
home into a strange but interesting family shrine, the Crisologo Museum (Liberation Blvd;
admission free; h 8.30-11.30am & 1.30-4.30pm TueSat). In addition to the usual fare of books,
photos and other personal items, there is

the old Chevy that Governor Carmeling
Crisologo was in when she was ambushed
in 1961. She survived, but her husband,
Floro, a longtime congressman, was not so
lucky when he was attacked in a church in

1970. There are a few lurid photos of the
killing, and the blood-stained pants he was
wearing are preserved in a glass case. The
1st-floor sala is kept mostly as it was when
it was occupied, and contains several pieces
of colonial-era furniture.
The recently opened Museo San Pablo (admission P10; h8.30-11.30am & 1.30-4.30pm Fri-Wed),
in St Paul Cathedral, has a religious theme
and is a good place to see old santos. The
photo collection of a German pharmacist
who lived in Vigan for a number of years in
the late 1800s also deserves a look.
Built in 1788, the Padre Jos Burgos National
Museum (Burgos St; admission P10; h8.30-11.30am &
1.30-4.30pm Tue-Sat) is the ancestral home of
Father Jos Burgos, one of the three martyr
priests executed by the Spanish in 1872. It
houses an extensive collection of Ilocano
artefacts, including a series of 14 paintings
by the locally famed painter Don Esteban
Villanueva depicting the 1807 Basi Revolt.
Weavings, Tingguian (Itneg) jewellery, musical instruments, pottery and farming and
fishing implements are also on display. On
the 2nd floor is the Ilocano Hall of Fame,
with photos and captions describing the
achievements of famous Ilocanos. Next
door is the provincial jail, built in 1657.
POTTERY FACTORIES
Prior to the arrival of the Spanish, Chinese

settlers took advantage of the abundant clay
in the area and pioneered a still-active pottery industry. The burnay (earthen jars) are
used in the fermentation of bas (sugarcane
wine) and bagoong (fish paste), but you are
more likely to see them scattered about in
homes and gardens. There are a couple of
pottery factories you can visit on Liberation
Blvd, near the corner of Gomez St. The
50m-long kiln at RG Jar (Gomez St), which was
made in 1823 and can hold nearly 1000 jars,
is a wonder to behold. Kevin the kalabaw
is employed as a mixer at RG Jar and will
periodically walk on the clay.
WEAVERS
Vigan weavers are known for using abel,

a locally produced cotton fabric, to handweave shawls, tablecloths, napkins and
even barong. Barangay Camanggaan, just a
10-minute tricycle ride southeast of Vigan,
is a good place to watch abel hand-weavers
NOR TH LUZON
Mira Hills
Park
Lun
ratio
Katipunan St
To Playa de Oro
(3km)
Gen
io S4
t
yes S
Libe
ez
10
ifac
t i zo Ri ver
Me s
St
Bon
Del
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

Crisologo Museum.......................5 B3
Mueseo San Pablo...................(see 11)
Padre Jose Burgos National
Museum...................................6 B1
Pottery Factories..........................7 A2
Provincial Jail................................8 B1
Quema House.............................9 C3
RG Jar........................................10 A2
St Paul Cathedral........................11 C1
Syquia Mansion.........................12 C2
os S
t
Plaza
Maestro
vE
C1
C2
C2
te
Burg
St
C1
D
n
INFORMATION
Click Internet Caf........................1
Ilocos Sur Tourism Information
Center..................................... 2
Post Office...................................3
SNP Cyberzone............................4
To National Hwy
C
(500m); North to
San Vicente (5km); Magsingal (11km);
Laoag (83km); South to Santa Maria (35km);
San Fernando (La Union) (132km); Manila (394km)
Plaza
11
Salcedo
va
Go
300 m
0.2 miles
Go
Riza
Provincial
B Capitol
Building
Plaza
V Singson
Quirin
l St
VIGAN
148 I L O C O S V i g a n
in action and pick up woven goods at unbeatable prices in designs that are difficult
to find elsewhere.
In barangay Mindoro, there are still a few
weavers making binakol weavings that incorporate a traditional psychedelic-looking
design.
Festivals & Events

The Viva Vigan Festival of the Arts, a grand
celebration of the towns cultural heritage,
takes place in the first week in May. There
is street dancing, a fashion show, a kalesa
parade and, of course, lots of food.
The Vigan town fiesta, held in the third
or fourth week of January, commemorates
the towns patron saint, St Paul the Apostle,
with a parade and musical performances.
All the hotels listed here have free breakfast
and hot water unless otherwise noted.
Grandpas Inn (%722 2118; 1 Bonifacio St; d with/
without air-con P1200/700; pa) This rustic inn
has a good restaurant and two rooms where
you can sleep in a kalesa. The other rooms
lack these carriages-cum-beds but still
have brick walls, capiz-shell windows and
wooden beams. Unfortunately the bathrooms are run-down and street noise can
be a problem. The restaurant is a popular
late-night watering hole.
Cordillera Inn (%722 2727; cnr Mena Crisologo St &
Gen Luna St; d P1500; pa) You cant beat the
location, right in the heart of the Mestizo
District. Its a bit worn around the edges
but stays true to the Vigan theme with colonial-style beds and furniture, and a grand
wooden staircase.
THE AUTHORS CHOICE
Villa Angela (%722 2914; 26 Quirino Blvd; d/q
P1600/1800; pa) This B&B is more than
130 years old and retains every morsel of
its old-world charm. The massive rooms and
fabulous antique furniture, which include
wooden harps and king-sized nara-wood
canopy beds, will blow you away. This is
where Tom Cruise, Willem Dafoe and other
celebs spent the night while filming Born
on the Fourth of July in the vicinity in 1989,
and there is no shortage of pictures on the
wall to prove it.
Gordion Inn (%722 2526; www.gordioninn.netfirms

.com; cnr V de los Reyes & Salcedo St; d P1200; pna)
This B&B is easy to spot with its bright blueand-yellow faade. The rooms are basic but
have Viganesque touches like old four-poster
canopy beds, and there is a small outdoor
restaurant that serves vegetarian food. Once
again, the bathrooms are substandard.
Playa de Oro (%0916 326 2039; jdplayadeoro@yahoo
.com; d with/without TV P700/600; pa) Lest one forget Vigan is near the beach, theres this simple but inoffensive resort on a vast beach just
3km west of town. Theres no hot water.
Also recommended:
El Juliana (%722 2994; 5 Liberation Blvd; d P700; p
as) Has large, basic rooms. Access to the pool costs
P40, even for hotel guests. Prices dont include breakfast.
Vigan Heritage Mansion (%722 6495; www.vigan
heritage.com; cnr Liberation Blvd & Mena Crisologo St; d
P1500; pa) Newly opened historic B&B, but wheres
the antique furniture?
Vigan Plaza Hotel (%722 8552; vphotel@pldtdsl.net;
Plaza Burgos; s/d P2000/2500; pna) Legitimate
high-end option boasts modern design with old-world
flourishes.
Eating & Drinking

Caf Leona (Mena Crisologo St; meals P100-300; a) This
eatery is so good theres hardly a need to go
anywhere else. It serves excellent Japanese
and Ilocano specialties, and offers a different
fixed-price, all-you-can-eat menu every day.
It stays open late, drawing an eclectic mix
of local and foreign travellers in search of
libation after a long, hot day of sightseeing.
To top it all off, theres outdoor, streetside
dining Tuesday through Saturday.
Cafera del Maestro (Plaza Maestro; a) This
American-style coffee shop serves up cold
coffee-based drinks and a selection of pastries and cakes.
Bistro (Gen Luna St; h6pm-midnight) A classy
bar with old furniture and Pinoy records
on the wall.
The best cheap dining option is the collection of street stalls that line Florentino
St along Plaza Burgos, serving tasty local
snacks such as empanadas (deep-fried flour
tortillas filled with shrimp, cabbage and egg)
and okoy (deep-fried shrimp omelettes).
Shopping
There are several antique shops in the Mestizo District that are fun to browse, but they
mostly carry reproductions.
Ornate wooden furniture is produced

in Vigan, and shops such as Mira Furniture
(%722 2755; cnr Plaridel St & Bonifacio St) take orders
for colonial-style custom-made furniture,
such as long-armed butaca chairs.
Woven abel goods can be found in the
public market or at Rowildas (Mena Crisologo St)
and Cristys (Mena Crisologo St).

There are many buses to and from Manila (P550, 10 hours). Try Dominion Bus
Lines (%722 2084; cnr Liberation Blvd & Quezon Ave)
to Cubao and Sampaloc, or Partas (%722
3369; Alcantara St) to Cubao and Pasay. Partas
has two 29-seat deluxe buses (P700); the
company also has buses to Laoag (P90, two
hours). Philippine Rabbit and other buses
bound for Laoag and Manila stop on the
National Hwy outside Vigan.
Partas and Philippine Rabbit have several
buses per day to Governor Pack Rd in Baguio (P260, five hours).
Any bus heading south stops in San
Fernando (La Union; P190, 3 hours).
There are frequent minibuses to Laoag
(P90, two hours) from the Caltex station
on the National Hwy, and to Bangued (P60,
1 hours) from near the public market.
Getting Around
Vigan is one of the few remaining towns
in the Philippines where kalesa are still in
use. The cost of a kalesa ride (P10 per head
within town) is slightly more than a tricycle
ride (P6).
AROUND VIGAN
Worth the one-hour drive south is the Santa

Maria Church. This Unesco World Heritage
site, a massive baroque structure built in
1769, is unique in the region. It has an imposing brick faade and sits alone on a hill
overlooking Santa Maria, rather than down
in the town square. Accessible by huge
flights of stairs on either side, its not hard
to see why it was used as a fortress during
the Philippine Revolution in 1896.
Also worth a visit is the architecturally
interesting, primitive baroquestyle Church
of San Vicente, just a 15-minute tricycle ride
north of Vigan. Chinese and Japanese missionaries were once housed here.
There is a branch of the National Museum
(admission free; h7.30am-5pm Mon-Fri) in Magsin-
I L O C O S A r o u n d V i g a n 149
gal, 11km north of Vigan, where Ilocano relics are on display. An ancient-looking belfry
(1731), part of the remains of a ruined old
church, still stands in front of the museum.
The museum itself was once a convent for
the ruined church, which was replaced in
1827 by the nearby Magsingal Church, which
houses two rather interesting sculptures of
pregnant-looking angel mermaids.
LAOAG
%077 / pop 95,000
Long before Laoag (la-wahg) was established in 1580 with St William the Hermit as
its patron saint, Chinese and Japanese merchants visited the area, which was renowned
for its gold mines. Laoag eventually became
the capital of Ilocos Norte and loyal Marcos
country. Imee Marcos, daughter of Ferdinand and Imelda, is a congresswoman here,
and her brother Ferdinand R (Bong Bong)
Marcos is the current governor. Around
Laoag, the old dictator is still referred to
somewhat reverently as President Marcos.
Theres not a whole lot to do in Laoag
itself, although there are some wonderful
old churches and good beaches not far from
the city. High-rolling tourists from Taiwan
flock to nearby Fort Ilocandia Resort &
Casino. Watch out every now and then
a busload of them takes over the Museo
Ilocos Norte.
Information
The big banks all have branches around the
intersection of Gen Segundo and Rizal Ave,
Laoags main commercial thoroughfare.
Gym Carry (Gen Segundo Ave; per hr P30; h8am-8pm)
The best Internet caf in town.
PNB (Philippine National Bank; %772 4027; cnr Tres
Marias Ave & Rizal Ave) Near the capital building; exchanges travellers cheques.
Sights
The Italian Renaissancestyle St Williams
Cathedral was built in the 1870s, presumably long before the McDonalds that sits
right in front of it. Its weathered belltower
is gradually sinking into the soft riverside
loam; note the low-slung entryway.
Housed in the historic Tabacalera warehouse, the snazzy new Museo Ilocos Norte
(%770 4587; Gen Luna St; admission P20; h9am-5pm
Tue-Sat & 9am-noon Mon) has a large collection of
Ilocano, Igorot and Itneg cultural artefacts.
NOR TH LUZON
NOR TH LUZON
Sleeping
150 I L O C O S L a o a g
I L O C O S A r o u n d L a o a g 151
Laoag
0
0
LAOAG
B
te St
an S
t
r St
ve
acie
oA
osta
St
Fon
und
Seg
Gen
P Ac
St
id St
olasc
MN
Ave
stro
St
s Ca
una
o St
or St
Regid
nio L
AM
an S
t
Rom
Rizal
Paco
es
Martir
Anto
Andre
Luna
St
INFORMATION
Gym Carry...............................1 C2
PNB..........................................2 B3
Laoag
River
5
To Laoag Airport (5.5km);
Fort Ilocandia (9km); Suba (11km)
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

Belltower.................................3 C3
Museo Ilocos Norte..................4 B2
St William's
Cathedral...........................5 C3
SLEEPING
Isabella Suites..........................6 C2
Texicano Hotel........................7 A2
To Batac (13.5km);
Paoay (16km);
Vigan (83km);
Manila (477km)
EATING
Dap-ayan ti Ilocos Norte...........8 B3
Sleeping
Palazzo de Laoag (% 773 1842; 27 P Paterno St;
s/d/cabana incl breakfast P1100/1350/1200; pn
ais) Amazingly, palazzo isnt neces-
sarily a misnomer. It has a nice courtyard

and cabanas set around a pool. The rooms
are small but clean with nice bathrooms.
The homey caf serves good omelettes for
iz St
Juan
E Ru
St
L Ab
Don
Luna
St
Gilbert
Bridge
The entertainment in the district known as

Discolandia is mostly shady, but the nearby
cock pit (admission P50) is as good a place as any
if you want to see a cock fight on a Saturday
night. See the boxed text, p44, for information about this Philippine obsession.
a St
Ave
nuev
astro
Villa
Tr
es
FR C
13
Juan
La Preciosa (%773 1162; Rizal Ave; mains P150; a)

This elegant restaurant is highly recommended for its large portions of delicious Ilocano specialties. The soups can serve four.
Macys Diner (%770 3551; Gen Segundo Ave; full
meals P180; a) Under Hotel Tiffany, it plays
the 1950s American-style diner to the
hilt, complete with large photos of Marilyn Monroe, James Dean and Elvis, and a
menu that includes hamburgers, hot dogs
and refreshing shakes.
Dap-ayan ti Ilocos Norte (cnr Rizal Ave & V Llanes
Ave) This outdoor foodcourt is an great
place to sample local fare like bagnet (pork
knuckle), lechon (suckling pig), empanadas
and longganisa (Chinese-style sausages).
Entertainment
3
adilla
nes
V Lla
as
Mari
Tres
nes
Ave
V Lla
tawa
as S
t
k St
15
St
astro
Gen
o St
St
lar St
Nolasc
Luna
11
Balin
Juan
FR C
and
Hern
Gue
paz St
rrero
AG Tu
o A
ve
St
20
Fari
HT
Giro
Cid
12
nte S
MH de
l Pi
10
1
Provincial
Capitol
Building
14
Ave
Ave
n St
St
ot S
Don
Mau
ricio
Ave
16
n)
La Preciosa...............................9 A2
Macy's Diner.........................10 C2
TRANSPORT
Farias Trans Bus Terminal.....11
Jeepneys to Airport................12
Jeepneys to Calayab (Fort
Ilocandia) and Suba...........13
Jeepneys to Paoay & Batac.....14
Maria de Leon Bus Terminal...15
Minibuses to Pagudpud.........16
Minibuses to Vigan................17
Partas Bus Terminal................18
Philippine Rabbit Bus
Terminal............................19
RCJ Bus Terminal....................20
B3
B3
C3
B3
B3
C2
C2
C1
A2
B3
breakfast. Its a short tricycle ride east of the

city centre and a big step up in quality.
Isabela Suites (%770 4998; isabelsuites@yahoo
.com; Gen Segundo Ave; s/d P650/950; pa) This is
the newest place in town and also one of
the best. The tidy little doubles have comfy
queen-sized beds, although the peach bedspreads are a questionable call.

Philippine Airlines (% 607 0371, 02-855 8888 in
Manila) flies to and from Manila (one way
P3040, four weekly). Pacific Air (%772 0663)
has irregular flights to Batan Island (P2900,
one hour).
Airport jeepneys (P15, 10 minutes) leave
from Farias St and Rizal Ave. Most say
Laoag-Gabu.
There is no shortage of buses to Manila
(P650, 12 hours). Philippine Rabbit (%771
7250), RCJ (%771 3308) and Partas (%771 4898)
run buses to Cubao, Pasay, Caloocan and
Avenida. Farias Trans (%772 0126) and Maria
de Leon (%770 3532) have deluxe, 29-seat overnight express buses to Sampaloc (P800, 9
hours).
Philippine Rabbit and Partas have hourly
buses to Baguio (P375, 6 hours). All
buses heading south stop in Vigan (P90,
two hours) and San Fernando (La Union;
P300, 5 hours).
GMW (%771 6466) has five daily buses to
Tuguegarao (P333, 6 hours) via Pagudpud
(P60, 1 hours) and Claveria (P130, three

hours). Minibuses to Pagudpud leave every
30 minutes from behind the Provincial
Capitol Building.
Jeepneys to Batac (P15, 45 minutes) and
Paoay (P25) leave from next to the RCJ station on Hernando Ave. Jeepneys heading
toward Fort Ilocandia and Suba leave from
in front of St William Cathedral (P15).
AROUND LAOAG
Fort Ilocandia
Located near the beach in the barangay

of Calayab, 10km south of central Laoag,
the sprawling Fort Ilocandia Resort & Casino
(%772 1166; www.fortilocandia.com.ph; r P4600; p
anis) draws in hordes of baccarat-
hungry tourists from Taiwan, just a onehour flight away. The complex was originally built by the Marcos family for their
daughter Irenes wedding reception. The
rooms and service are what youd expect
for the price, and there are several good
restaurants on the premises.
There are some fun activities going on
here that are open to both guests and nonguests. Immediately south of the resort are
the unique and seemingly endless coastal
sand dunes of Suba. Scenes from Mad Max,
Born on the Fourth of July and many a Filipino movie have been filmed here. The best
way to check them out is to rent an all-terrain
vehicle from the resort (P500 per 20 minutes). Fort Ilocandia also has a shooting
range, paintball, archery and a variety of
water sports. The Gary Playerdesigned
Fort Ilocandia Golf & Country Club (%772 1160;
green fees weekday/weekend P2000/2500) is on Paoay
Lake in Suba.
Jeepneys bound for Fort Ilocandia and
Suba leave from in front of St William Cathedral in Laoag (P15).
Batac
The embalmed body of Ferdinand Marcos
(191789) is laid out on a mattress and lit
by floodlights in an otherwise dark room
at the Marcos Museum & Mausoleum (Barangay
Lacub; admission free; h 9am-noon & 1-4pm). Full
creepiness is achieved by eerie choral music
played on a continuous loop.
Its a sign of the familys continued political influence and the lingering ambivalence
as to his legacy that the body was allowed to
be returned to his boyhood home. Its this
NOR TH LUZON
NOR TH LUZON
astro
Samo
17
St
nga
Bita
V Lig
FR C
To Discolandia
(600m); Laoag
cock pit (600m)
Ave
Lazaro
Eating
Pasio
Blas C
sca S
t
Z Flo
Rizal
St
as S
t
St
Primo
Balin
res S
una
k St
nio L
Fari
mon
A Sa
Anto
tawa
te St
19
Gen
St (T
To Palazzo de
Laoag (4.5km)
Rom
Ave
Laga
McK
inley
St
Lazaro
1913
St
Giro
Primo
nte
Texicano Hotel (%722 0290; Rizal Ave; s/d with

fan P250/300, with air-con P600/700; pn) The aircon rooms in the annex here are especially
roomy, and are clean to boot.
To GMW; Bus
Terminal (200m);
Pagudpud (75km)
18
Samo
n St
res S
Don
Mau
ricio
Ave
Z Flo
n Av
A Sa
mon
urza S
Abla
C
Gomb
Paco
200 m
0.1 miles
152 I L O C O S Pa g u d p u d
same legacy that prompts many Filipinos

to suspect the body is simply a wax figure,
one last-ditch con.
To get to Batac from Laoag, take a jeepney (P15, 45 minutes, 15km) or tricycle
(P100), or hop on any southbound bus.
From Batac its just 4km west to Paoay
(pow-why), home of North Luzons most
famous church. Paoay Church was built in
classic earthquake baroque style, with
massive brick reinforcements running
along its sides. Its walls are made of thick
coral blocks and stucco-plastered bricks,
sealed with a mixture of limestone mortar
and sugarcane juice. Begun in 1704 and finished 90 years later, it has Gothic, Chinese
and Japanese influences. Unlike other beautiful churches of the region, Paoay Church
is not encroached upon by shops, schools or
food stalls. Along with its towering belfry,
it stands in a wide-open square, revealed in
all its splendour and glory. Unesco named
it a World Heritage site in 1993.
Heading back north to Laoag via the
coastal route takes one through Suba, home
to scenic Paoay Lake and Malacaang of the
North (admission P20; h9-11.30am & 1-4pm Tue-Sun),
the opulent former residence of the Marcos
family. The impressive house, with its cavernous sala, capiz-shell windows and other
colonial touches, provides a glimpse into
the familys lavish lifestyle.
Paoay-bound jeepneys leave from near
the RCJ terminal on Hernando Ave (P25,
17km), or you can take a tricycle (P130).
Malacaang of the North is a 30-minute
tricycle ride from Paoay (P50). To get there
from Laoag, take a Suba-bound jeepney
(P15, 12km) from near St William Church,
or a tricycle (P100).
PAGUDPUD
%077 / pop 19,300
Filipinos call Pagudpud the Boracay of

the North, but thats a bit of a misnomer.
While it does have gorgeous white beaches
backed by rows of palms, its missing one
essential Boracay component: people.
Pagudpud actually consists of three vast
beaches, strung along Luzons northern
edge and hemmed in by huge points jutting
out into the ocean. Coconut palmbacked
Saud beach is where the resorts are. Maira-Ira,
also known as Blue Lagoon, is a few points

east. Deserted Pansian beach is still further
on, near the border of Cagayan province.
In Maira-Ira, Luzons whitest sand and
bluest water conspire majestically to be situated in one place. Its also a good snorkelling and dive spot. Its 16km from Saud to
the beach turn-off, then another 4km down
a bumpy road; you can take a tricycle from
Saud (return P300, 45 minutes).
About 30km to the west of Pagudpud is
the impressive Cape Bojeador Lighthouse and,
closer by, are the windmills of beautiful Bangui Bay.
The beaches around here dont have
much in the way of services or beach
toys. Hang-and-do-nothing types will find
Pagudpud a hidden paradise; hardcore partiers will find it an utter bore.
Sleeping & Eating

These resorts are all at Saud Beach.
Terra Rika Beach Resort (%0918 937 1752; terrarika
diveresort@yahoo.com; camp site per adult P50, r P2000;
pa ), Apo Idon (% 0918 933 4464; r/cottage
P3000/5000; pas) and Northridge Resort
(% 0920 220 5089; r P1500; pa ) are sister
resorts clustered at the west end of Saud

Beach. The rates at all these places seem
high but are negotiable, especially in the low
season. The nicest is Apo Idon, which has
four very appealing rooms with stone walls
and good lighting. Terra Rikka rents tents
with mattresses for P300; it also has a small
dive centre. Order your meals in advance
at the Terra Rika restaurant, which serves
excellent fresh seafood, including lobster.
Saud Beach Resort (%02-928 9853 in Manila; d/
ste P3300/4000; pa) is an upmarket choice
located on a coconut plantation. The sizable rooms have nice wooden floors and
bamboo furniture. Enter from the beach or
the guard will harass you for P50.
At Villa Del Mar (%0920 553 4161; camp site
per person P100, r with fan/air-con P1400/1700, cottages
P2000-3500; as ) the poolside standard
rooms are basic but the deluxe cottages,

with stone floors and capiz-shell windows,
are loaded with charm. You can rent tents
for P800.

The highway around here is spectacular in
spots. If youre travelling by bus from Laoag,
get a seat on the left side of the bus.
T H E C O R D I L L E R A B a g u i o 153
There are frequent minibuses travelling

to Laoag (P60, 1 hours) and Claveria
(P40, 1 hours).
but not too much because youll only need

about P500 a day.
THE CORDILLERA
%074 / pop 252,300
To many travellers, North Luzon simply

is the Cordillera, with everything else fading into insignificance. These spiny mountains, which top out at 2900m, are beloved,
worshipped and feared in equal doses by
those who witness them and those who live
among them.
The people of the Cordillera, collectively
known as the Igorot, own a fascinating culture that is reflected in the areas varied
and multitudinous attractions. Banaues renowned rice terraces have been dubbed the
eighth wonder of the world, and they thoroughly deserve the label. Lesser-known but
no less spectacular terraces exist throughout
Ifugao, Mountain Province and Kalinga. So
little has changed in Sagada since its days as
a hippy hang-out that it would certainly become one again if there were another 60s.
Bontoc is a busy mountain town; Kabayan
has mummies in mountain caves; Kalinga
has a few old head-hunters hanging around.
Even Baguio, often maligned, is a fine stopover for a day or two.
The allure of the Cordillera is confirmed
by the following fact: outside of Baguio,
there are no ATMs that accept Western
plastic in the entire region. Bring cash,
BAGUIO
Vibrant, woodsy and cool by Philippine
standards, Baguio (bah-gee-oh) is the undisputed nerve centre of the Cordillera. For
Filipinos, its the escape of choice from the
stifling heat of the lowlands. For foreigners,
its the primary gateway to backpacker bliss
up north in Sagada, Banaue and Kalinga.
The city was constructed as a mountain
retreat by US military forces in the early
1900s. WWII in the Philippines began
when the Japanese bombed Baguios Camp
John Hay, which later served as General Tomoyuki Yamashitas headquarters. The city
was subsequently flattened by US bombs
dropped to drive out the Japanese who
had already left. It was levelled again by a
massive earthquake in 1990.
The bombs are long gone but today the
citys residents are faced with a new threat:
overdevelopment. The local press repeatedly lambast city planners for inviting environmental destruction, while longtime
Baguio dwellers wax nostalgic about the
days before SM Mall marred every view and
traffic clogged every street.
The areas original inhabitants, the Ibaloi
and Kankanay, long ago assimilated into
Baguio society. The citys character is now
shaped by the quarter of a million college
students that double Baguios population
TEN WORDS FOR THE ROAD IN THE CORDILLERA

Begnas A traditional Kankanay community celebration held to mark planting season, death and various other
events. Also known as a pakde.
Bodong A peace pact, essentially. The signing of a bodong is usually followed by a caao.
Caao A ritual feast, usually involving the sacrifice of livestock, to mark certain stages in the rice-growing season
and just about anything else imaginable.
Dap-ay The ubiquitous outdoor patio where important Igorot meetings and rituals take place. In some tribes, only
men are allowed to enter the dap-ay. In the Bontoc area, dap-ay are called ato.
Gansa Gongs used in a begnas or caao. A proper gansa handle contains the cheek and chin bones of a headhunting victim.
G-string The common name ascribed to the thonglike woven garment traditionally worn by men throughout the
Cordillera.
Mumbaki Akin to a priest, mumbaki communicate with the spirits through the innards of freshly sacrificed animals
during caao. Known in some tribes as a mambunong.
Pinikpikan A popular chicken dish in which the bird is first beaten alive, so its blood coagulates, then killed.
Tapis Beautiful woven wraparound skirts worn by women.
Tengao Days of rest in the Bontoc region, called by village elders. Tengao are known as obaya in Sagada.
NOR TH LUZON
NOR TH LUZON
Paoay
154 T H E C O R D I L L E R A
The Cordillera
0
0
THE CORDILLERA
20 km
12 miles
To Balbalan (20km);
Tabuk (38km);
Bagued (70km)
Boliney
River
Batong
Buhay
Luba
Ambuto
Abra
Sumadel
Dananao
Tinglayan
Tulgao
Buscalan
Chic
oR
i
Sadanga
Mainit
Mt Sipitan Aguid
Guinaang
Bomod-ok
(2200m)
Maligcong
Falls
Agawa
Tucucan
Banga-an
Besao
Sagada
Bontoc
Mt Ampacao
MOUNTAIN
(1889m)
Bagnen
PROVINCE
ver
Orientation
Bugnay
Bitwagen
Tanggaoan
Basao
ve
Gregorio
del Pilar
Liglig
Luplupa
Butbut Ngibat
Logong
Tubo
To Candon (10km);
Vigan (57km)
Salcedo
Lubuagan
Malango
KALINGA
ABRA
San
Emilio
Balatoc
Anabel
To Natonin
(15km)
Namipit
Sigay
Ri
Sumadel
Tadian
Sabangan
Bauko
Kadaclan
Barlig
Chico
C
To Tagudin (10km);
San Fernando (55km)
Naiba
Sadsadan
Mayabay
Batad
Ducligan
Tabbac
Banaue
Hapao
To Mayoyao
(15km)
Mt Napulawan
(2642m)
Pitwan
lse
Lepanto
gat
Hw
Mankayan
Bangaan
Ha
Bakun
Abatan
Bayayo
Palina
Hungduan
Sabangan
River
Loo
Agno
Mt Lobo
(2156m)
e
Riv
IFUGAO
Awa
Ambuwaya
Julungan Lake
Terraces
Bolog
Loo Valley
Information
Lagawe
Maggok
Ri
There is no shortage of banks with ATM

machines, most centred on Session Rd.
Session Rd and its arteries are also
flooded with Internet cafs. Dont pay more
than P25 per hour.
Angels (103 Upper Gen Luna Rd; per kilo P35; h8am-
ve
Sinipsip
Palina Rice
Terraces
LA
UNION
Kapangan
Nagacadan
Buguias
Terraces
Nabilcong
Mt Singakalsa
Mt Tabayoc
(2688m)
(2812m)
BENGUET
Bangao
Kabayan
Kibungan
Pongasan
Barrio
Highest Point
Timbac
Cave
in the Philippine
Tawangan Tinnoc
Caves
Akiki
Highway System
(2255m) Catubo
Ballay Trail
Mt Pulag
Tinongchol
Naguey
Kabayan
National Park
Burial Rock
Mt
Pulag
Todiakap
Eddet
Abiang
Mt Atok
(2922m)
Bridge
Eddet
(1770m)
Lusod
Sayangan
Abukot
Atok
Tabio
Bokod
Kiangan
Pangaggawan
Cave
Lamut
To Bagabag
(6km)
Villa Verde
Ambangeg
Ambaguio
Solano
Tublay
La
Trinidad
Guerilla
Saddle
Acop's
Place
NUEVA
VIZCAYA
Ambuklao
Lake
Ambuklao
The city radiates in all directions from

Burnham Park, named after the American
architect who planned the city. The primary
commercial hub, Session Rd, runs roughly
parallel to the parks northeastern side. The
northwestern tip of the park runs into the
smaller Rizal Park and City Hall. There are
plenty of restaurants, hotels and bars in
both these areas. SM Mall lurks beyond the
southeast end of Burnham Park.
The character of the city changes dramatically south and east of the city centre as chaos
gives way to green parks, towering Benguet
pines, lavish summer homes and winding
roads with spectacular views. The Baguio Botanic Gardens, Wright Park, Camp John Hay
and Mines View Park are among the many
wide-open spaces in this part of town offering peace, quiet and fresh mountain air.
8pm) Laundry.
DOT (Department of Tourism; %442 7014; Governor

Pack Rd) Has information on tours and treks throughout
the Cordillera.
National Bookstore (%619 7723; SM Mall; h8am10pm)
Netopi@ (%446 4432; Upper Session Rd; h8am-midnight) Across from the post office; long-distance telephone
calls cost only P5 per hour.
Sights & Activities
Bayombong
TAM-AWAN VILLAGE
Bangao
Baguio
To Kayapa (20km);
Aritao (35km)
To Manila
(230km)
Eight traditional Ifugao homes and two

rare Kalinga huts were taken apart and reassembled at this artists village (%446 2949;
tamawan@skyinet.net; Long-Long Rd, Pinsao) on the
northwest edge of the city. On a clear day you

can see the South China Sea, hence the name
Tam-awan, which literally means Vantage
Point. The Chanum Foundation, headed by
well-known contemporary artist Ben Cabrera
(Bencab), developed the project in line with
its mission to preserve and teach the art and
culture of the Cordillera people.
There are four artists in residence and
others who are just hanging out. You can
learn papermaking and indigenous music
and dance, or see a demonstration of arnis de
mano, a form of martial arts that uses rattan
sticks and the curiously named empty-hand
technique look: nothing there! Workshops
and demonstrations should be arranged in
advance (P350 per session). You can also
stay here; spending the night in one of these
huts (P500 to P800) is a rare treat.
Chit Asignacion, the vice-president of the
foundation, is a great source of historical
and practical information about the area.
To get here, take a taxi (P54) or a Quezon
HillTam-awan or Tam-awanLong-Long
jeepney (P5.50) from the corner of Kayang
St and Abanao St (3km, straight uphill).
Combine your trip here with a visit to the
Easter Weaving Room (p160), which is
roughly on the way.
CHURCHES & TEMPLES
Set on a hill overlooking Session Rd, the

twin-spire Baguio Cathedral served as a refuge
for 5000 locals during heavy bombing in
WWII. Some victims of the bombing are
buried on its grounds. You can reach the
cathedral from the stairway off Session Rd.
The Bell Church (La Trinidad Rd; h6am-5pm) consists of several ornate, pagoda-roofed temples
near the border of Baguio and La Trinidad.
Though it was originally a Buddhist temple,
the priests practise a mixture of Buddhism,
Taoism, Confucianism and Christianity.
Buddhists can also worship at the hardto-find Baguio Buddhist Temple off Assumption
Rd, which features a 6m sitting Buddha and
interesting views of the city-market area.
Established by the Spanish Jesuits in
1907, the Lourdes Grotto sits at the top of 252
steps. From the top, theres a nice view of
the citys rooftops.
ST LOUIS UNIVERSITY MUSEUM
This very good, newly renovated museum

(%442 3043; admission free; h7.30am-noon & 1-5pm
NOR TH LUZON
Mt Amuyao
(2702m)
Kayan
Ma
NOR TH LUZON
Cervantes
Suyo
Talubin
Gonogon
Guitron
River
ILOCOS
SUR
Mt Polis
(1829m)
for much of the year. Acoustic music wafts

out of windows on every street; walking
around with a guitar strapped to your back
is decidedly de rigueur.
Away from the traffic-snarled city centre
and this is minus tricycles, since they cant
make it up the hills Baguio is airy and pleasant. If youre returning from the mountains,
the small-scale urban mayhem, nightlife and
youthful population can also be refreshing.
156 T H E C O R D I L L E R A B a g u i o
Baguio
Baguio
0
0
BAGUIO
Ave
St
St
on
mpti
Assu
Ma
bin
Calderon St
Rd
ck
Pa
no
Go
ve
r
or
lla
Dr
ok
St
Outlo
44
Outlook
Extension
Abanao St
ysa
Vi
Brent Rd
Dr
tia
Ar
ga
St
So
ut
ion
Rd
Rd
24
42
Camp John Hay

Back Cafe
55
Rd
Dr
ack
Rd
Dr
Romulo
Rd
Sess
on
or P
To Mines View
Park (100m);
Good Shepherd
Convent (200m);
Kabayan (64km)
pe
Club
per
Up
ris
ern
oo
Dr
ar
Gov
Pacd
a
n zo S
t
io S
t
ifac
Bon
ve
yA
ysa
gsa
Ma
Shugum St
Legarda Rd
Rd
La
an
wk
ka
Bo
d(
nR
ga
hu
St
per
ry
t Off Rd
26
sion
Law
ton
Sheridan
Rd
Rd
37
Camp John Hay
30
San
Cu
Ses
Golf
Course
ta
27
Esc
Loaka
Rd
nn
Ke
stic
ola
on
St
Rd
To Loakan Airport
(3km); Balatoc Camp John
Mines (10km)
Hay Main
Gate
25
Ordonio Dr
To Cemetery of Negativism
(100m); Historical Core (100m);
Chocolat de Batriol (100m)
NOR TH LUZON
nR
llto
ulo
Rd
Legarda
ar
essio
on
er S
Upp
St
St
Bu
Rd
on
cs
Te
13
Le
St
Wright
Park
Ro
Qu
iko
nd
Sa
Rd
ste
na
Ea
Lu
Rd
NOR TH LUZON
St
eli
Baguio
Country
Club
Rd
To Rosario (35km);
Manila (240km)
St
SM
Mall
try
18
Up
ita
Ge
so
Coun
Rd
er
Kisad Rd
Baguio
General
Hospital
JF
D.P.S. Rd
Mil
Rd
Gibraltar
South D
45
Rd
Fr
lu
ar
Ca
Woo
Gov
wy
Marco
rri
Rd
23
University
of the
Philippines
Rd
ter
r Cen
erno
Baguio
Medical
Centre
E2
Ha
Wood
Rd
na
Lu
ar
on
Le
pp
Gen Lim St
21
rs
Ge
Rd
SM Mall
29
Rd
Baguio
Botanic
Gardens
he
See Enlargement
22
n
Sa
Park Rd
20
Up per
Rd
Del Pil
ar S
t
g
an
Sil
St
es
nt
Rd
43
Rd
ac
35
46
48
Dr
Siapno
se
1 15
ke
Leonard
io
S
io
ud
Cla 14
La
Dr
Ba
Te
so
rri
ss
ke
vy
co
Ha
Se
36
52
ad
St
Burnham
Park
39
Rd
La
ng
Ab
St
Ya
a R
d
Na
Roxas
io St
Lun
io
to
200 m
0.1 miles
fac
eral
a Rd
11
Burnham
Park
na
47
Gen
ra
Dr
Lun
41
Bo
Rd
0
0
10
Assumption Rd
na
an
Sh
Boating
Lagoon
Burnham
Park
Rd
um
ss
St
St
sa
ide
lo
a
un
Ki
ard
Rd
Av
19
Leg
an
oks
ag
Se
an
ro
St
sa
St
eral
to
Sh
rB
cb
Aba
um
acin
ula
Gen
51
12
we
Lu
say
To Asin Rd (1.5km);
Lourdes Grotto (1.3km);
Easter Weaving Room (2km)
Tam-awan Village (4km)
Bauang (45km);
San Fernando (55km)
City
Market
St
Ca
ag
Abanao
St
g
tu
38
53
un Rizal
Park
St
k
28
te
St
33 O
um
an
h
S
Burnham
Carino St
Park
Lo
ard
To Mt Santo Tomas turnoff

(8km); Agoo (43km);
Manila (275km)
32
Lo
16
EJ
40
op
ll
Ha
Ne
Slaughterhouse
Rd
54
and
St
Bonifacio
St
xa
Ri
G2
C3
G2
F1
E1
G3
F2
C2
D5
31
Rd
do
n
ma
Leg
TRANSPORT
Asian Spirit................................ 46
Dangwa Bus Terminal.................47
Jeepneys to Acupan................... 48
Jeepneys to Asin Rd....................49
Jeepneys to Tam-awan...............50
Parkview Bus Terminal (Ohayami
& KMS Buses).........................51
Philippine Rabbit, Dagupan Bus and
Partas Bus Terminals...............52
Plaza jeepney Terminal................53
Slaughterhouse Bus Terminal......54
Victory Liner Bus Terminal..........55
34
St
Rd
SHOPPING
City Market................................40 F1
Ibay's Silver Shop.......................41 G2
Narda's.......................................42 D5
Pilak...........................................43 F3
Sabado's.................................... 44 H4
Teresita's Main Shop................. 45 D4
Teresita's Showroom................(see 26)
ty
Ci
17
E2
G2
G2
E6
F2
G2
City
Hall
Manue
l
sa
DRINKING
Gimbal's.....................................34
Ionic Cafe..................................35
Jam Caf................................... 36
Nevada Square...........................37
Padi's Point Bar & Restaurant.....38
Rumours....................................39
50
Ch
Ki
Lak
49
Kayang
To Easter Weaving
Room (100m);
Tam-awan Village
(2km)
say
SLEEPING
Baguio Harrison Inn...................11 G2
Benguet Pine Tourist Inn.............12 E2
Bloomfield Hotel........................13 H3
Burnham Hotel .........................14 G2
Citylight Hotel........................... 15 H2
Diamond Inn..............................16 G1
Golden Pine Hotel & Restaurant..17 E2
Iggy's.........................................18 E4
La Brea Inn.................................19 G1
Mount Crest Hotel ..................(see 34)
Mountain Lodge.........................20 E4
Pines View..................................21 B5
PNKY.........................................22 E4
Red Lion.................................... 23 D4
Ridgewood................................ 24 G4
The Manor................................ 25 G6
Villa Princess Theresa Inn........... 26 D5
Wood's Place Inn...................... 27 D6
ad
id
in
Tr
St
Ab
Ro
C3
G2
C1
F6
G5
C3
C3
EATING
Bliss Caf.................................(seeo27)
n
iri E2
Cafe by the Ruins.......................28
Don Henrico's............................29 G2
Forest House..............................30 E6
Kusima ni Ima.............................31 E2
My Diner....................................32 F1
n
g uilia
33 E2
O' Na
Mai
Khan..............................
Rd
r
Easte ol Rd
Scho
INFORMATION
Angel's Laundry........................... 1 H2
Department of Tourism................2 C5
Netopi@.......................................3 H2
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Baguio Buddhist Temple...............4
Baguio Cathedral.........................5
Bell Church...................................6
Butterfly Sanctuary.......................7
Mile High Viewpoint.................... 8
St Louis Museum.........................9
St Louis University.....................10
To La Trinidad (4km);
Bontoc (129km);
Sagada (136km)
na
Hi
1 km
0.5 miles
Mon-Sat) on the campus of St Louis University

is run by Ike Picpican, one of the countrys
foremost authorities on the history and culture of the Cordillera people. Its located in
the basement of the campus library.
Formerly a US military rest-and-recreation

facility, 246-hectare Camp John Hay (%442 7902)
has been reinvented as a mountain resort
with restaurants, hotels, shops and a fantastic
golf course sprinkled amid rolling hills and
stands of Benguet pines. Worth a visit is the
Historical Core, with the attractively landscaped
Bell Amphitheatre. Just across from here is the
Cemetery of Negativism, where strange epitaphs
are engraved on mock headstones (eg Knot
A Teemplayer, Born a Star, Lived a Meteor,
Died in Flames). Nearby is a historic walking trail and the unique Chocolat de Batriol
restaurant. Theres a nice panorama from
the Mile High viewpoint; the Butterfly Sanctuary
is also worth a look.
Its free to enter the camp, although
modest admission fees apply to some sights.
The golf course is private but serious golfers
shouldnt have a problem talking their way
on through the manager.
MT SANTO TOMAS
The highest peak around Baguio, 2200m Mt

Santo Tomas, just south of the city off the
Marcos Highway, affords good mountainbiking and hiking opportunities. Its a twohour walk to the top from the trailhead. Get
a guide at the DOT.
BALATOC MINES TOUR
At this abandoned mine (%447 2619; office in

SM Mall; tour P250; hlast tour at 2.30pm), you can
don helmet and headlamp, board an underground train and pretend youre a miner.
To get there take an AcupanBalatoc jeepney from Harrison Rd near the Burnham
Hotel (P17.50, 30 minutes).
Sleeping
Lodging options south and east of the city
centre are universally quieter and more
woodsy than hotels elsewhere.
BUDGET
Red Lion (%304 3078; 92 Upper Gen Luna Rd; d P800;

pi) The main draw of this popular
choice is its bar, which serves great steaks
and is the preferred watering hole for Baguios expat community. The basement
rooms are dark but sizable.
There are sundry dorm beds available in
town, most of them perfectly grim. One
exception is the colourful and clean Diamond
Inn (%443 8575; www.diamond-inn.com; E Jacinto St;
dm/d P280/650). Baguio Harrison Inn (%442 7803;
37 Harrison Rd; s/d P400/590) in the YWCA building has small singles for dorm-bed prices.
Benguet Pine Tourist Inn (%442 7325; fax 443 3109;
82 Shanum St; dm/d P300/800;p) is a quiet option
near the buses to Sagada.
MIDRANGE
Citylight Hotel (%444 7544; fax 444 7422; 245 Upper

Gen Luna Rd; s/d with shared bathroom P450/900;p) The
singles are shoeboxes, but theyre clean, cosy,
perfectly functional shoeboxes. Its only a
five-minute walk from Session Rd, and the
Studio Caf attracts a chic weekend crowd.
Iggys (%444 7146; South Dr; d P950; p) Probably the best value in Baguio if you like
doing the rustic thing. Its a way out of town
but has plenty of upsides: peace and quiet, a
decent view, a good restaurant and local art
everywhere including in the rooms.
Burnham Hotel (%442 2331; fax 442 8415; 21 Calderon St; d P1000; p) This warm, old-fashioned
hotel in the city centre has a wonderful
common area festooned with indigenous
handicrafts, antiques and old photos. The
rooms are also attractively decorated, but
request one away from the noisy street.
La Brea Inn (%446 6061; la_brea_inn@yahoo.com;
24 Session Rd; d P1000) This spick-and-span, nofrills option manages to seal the noise off
better than most hotels in the centre.
Bloomfield Hotel (%446 9112; bloomfieldhotel
_baguio@yahoo.com; 3 Leonard Wood Rd; d/ste P1500/2000;
pna) This snazzy new place near SM
Mall has tastefully austere rooms with inviting, duvet-covered beds. The suites, with
king-sized beds, are worth the splurge. Its
a bit noisy, however.
Also recommended:
Mountain Lodge (%442 4544; mlodge@skyinet.net;
27 Leonard Wood Rd; s/d P1200/1500; p) More country
inn than mountain lodge, but theres nothing wrong with
that.
Woods Place Inn (%442 4641; woodsinn@mozcom
.com; 38 Military Cut Off Rd; d P1200; p) Great location
outside the centre, large rooms and a spa on the premises.
Pines View (%446 6726; fax 446 9287; 24 Legarda Rd;
s/d P1500/2300; pi) New business-class hotel.
TOP END
Ridgewood (%446 6295; fax 446 7733; 17 J Felipe St;

d/ste 2000/3000; pni) This newly constructed wood-and-brick-themed lodge
out by Wright Park offers top-end conveniences at good prices. If you dont mind
being away from the city centre and in
Baguio you shouldnt youll enjoy this refreshingly quiet gem, which boasts touches
like duvet covers, twice-per-day maid service and wi-fi.
PNKY (%444 5418; 13 Leonard Wood Rd; d P2500;
p) This B&B has a gorgeous common
room decorated with items for sale from the
art-and-handicraft store downstairs. There
are only three rooms, all super stylish; on
less busy weekdays you might get the common room to yourself and have free rein
with the stereo and board games.
Manor (%845 0822; www.campjohnhayhotels.com;
Camp John Hay; d/ste P4000/6000; pni ) Baguios fanciest hotel has gotten some competition of late but its superior service and
mountainside location amid peaceful Camp
John Hay make it the surest top-end option. It has a spa, gym, superb restaurant,
immaculate rooms and everything else you
would expect from a high-class hotel except,
perhaps, character. The hotel runs a regular
shuttle into town (P150, 10 minutes).
Also recommended:
Villa Princess Theresa Inn (%442 6946; fax 442
7368; 221 Upper Session Rd; d P1800; p) Classy joint
adorned with hip furniture from neighbouring Teresitas.
Golden Pine Hotel & Restaurant (%444 9965;
goldenpinehotel@skyinet.net; cnr Legarda Rd & Cario St;
d P2000; pnai) Has the standard high-classhotel luxuries and amenities.
Eating
Caf by the Ruins (%442 4010; 25 Chuntug St; meals
P150) Baguios most beloved restaurant is in
the remains of the former residence of the
governor of Benguet. Near Rizal Park, its
an especially nice place for tea or breakfast.
Try the chocolate-eh at suman (hot chocolate and sticky-rice cake).
Bliss Caf (%442 4641; 38 Military Cut Off Rd; meals
P125; hlunch & dinner Tue-Sun, plus breakfast Sat & Sun;
n) Theres incense in the air and Buddhas
on the tables at this earthy vegetarian restaurant next to Woods Place Inn. The homemade pasta dishes are especially tasty.
Kusima ni Ima Restaurant (%443 9420; cnr Legarda Rd & Cario St; meals P125) This downhome
THE AUTHORS CHOICE

Forest House (% 447 0459; 16 Loakan Rd;
sandwiches P85, mains P250-300; n) No detail
is left unattended at this hillside eatery
with a cabin-in-the-woods feel. The comfortable seating area by the fireplace, with
a full complement of daily newspapers, is a
fine place to wait out a thunderstorm. The
eclectic menu includes Thai, Korean and
American dishes as well as daring house
specialties like Ilocano pork belly (P950,
feeds two to three). The view from the
balcony is outstanding.
place whips up exotic Kapangpangan specialties like sweet-and-sour kalabaw, frogs

stuffed with chicken and pork, frog adobo
(frogs marinated with vinegar and garlic, and stewed until tender) and camaru
(crickets adobo deep-fried with garlic).
O Mai Khan (%442 5885; 12 Otek St; all-you-can-eat
meals P175; n) The best of several all-youcan-eat Mongolian barbecues in town.
My Diner (%446 5862; 88 Abanao St; meals P100;
h8am-2pm) A classic 50s-style diner with
waitresses on roller skates, Elvis photos on
the wall, and reliable late-night eats and
greasy breakfast food.
Don Henricos (%442 8802; Session Rd; pizza wraps
P110). Its pizza is good; its pizza wraps are
better.
Drinking
Nevada Square (off Military Circle, Loakan Rd) This
innocuous-looking collection of bars and
clubs turns into one giant fraternity party
on weekends, complete with shots, bar
sports and inebriated Filipino co-eds dancing on tabletops until the wee hours. If
youre looking to party, this is the place to
be. Beware: it can be quiet during the week
and a couple of the clubs have dress codes.
Padis Point Bar & Restaurant (%446 5937;
Rizal Park; admission P25-50; h7pm-4am) This large
live-music club draws big R&B, jazz and
hip-hop acts from around the country.
Gimbals (%443 9421; cnr Legarda Rd & Cario St;
admission free) This musty, seedy live-music
venue in the Mount Crest Hotel has seen
better days, but you cant beat the P20 San
Miguel from 6pm to midnight.
Jam Caf (cnr Assumption Rd & Session Rd; h8am-late)
A mix of arty-farty types and college students
NOR TH LUZON
NOR TH LUZON
CAMP JOHN HAY
bask amid local art and solid 80s and 90s

tunes in this second-storey lounge.
Rumours (%442 8153; Session Rd) A mellow,
sophisticated place that draws its fair share
of tourists and expats.
Ionic Caf (%444 7480; Session Rd) A smoky,
dimly lit place where you can drink a beer
in peace.
Shopping
(Main Shop %442 3376; 90 Upper Gen Luna Rd; Showroom %442 6946; 221 Upper Session Rd) and Sabados
(%442 7102; 16 Outlook Dr) sell similar carvings,
as well as antiques and fine local artwork.

For genuine Igorot weavings and garments, Nardas (%442 2992; 151 Upper Session Rd;
h8am-7pm) and Easter Weaving Room (%442
4972; estrwvng@skyinet.net; 2 Easter School Rd) each
carry a broad selection of high-quality, locally made items. Easter Weaving Room
sells everything from hand-woven bookmarks to tapis. Its well organised and
prices are clearly marked. In the basement
factory you can watch women hard at work
on their looms.
Mines View Park (Upper Outlook Drive) has rows
of souvenir stands where you can find jam,
peanut brittle and various other edibles and
knick-knacks. A short walk from the park
is the Good Shepherd Convent (Upper Outlook Drive),
where sales of the convents famous ubi (purple yam) jam and other preserves go toward
advocacy programmes for single mothers.
While youre up here take in the impressive
view from Mines View Parks lookout. Youll
be hard pressed to spot any mines, but a few
small rice terraces are visible on the steep
slopes across the valley. To get here take a
PlazaMines View jeepney from Otek St.
There are several silver shops in town,
the best being Ibays Silver Shop (%444 2652;
cnr Session Rd & Assumption Rd) and Pilak (%442 5971;
37 Leonard Wood Rd). Both also have outlets at
Mines View Park.

Baguios city market (Magsaysay Ave) is a 3sq-km maze where vendors sell everything
from lettuce to live poultry to low-quality
crafts and souvenirs. Be prepared to haggle. La Trinidads wholesale market, which
serves as a clearing house for almost all the
produce grown in the Cordilleras, is also
worth a wander.

AIR
Asian Spirit (%304 2813, 02 855 3333 in Manila; Azotea Bldg, Session Rd) flies daily to Baguio from
Manila at 9.45am, returning to Manila at
11.05am (one way P2866).
BUS & CAR
There are three main roads out of Baguio:

the Marcos Hwy, which ends up in Agoo
and is the main bus route to Manila; Kennan Rd, the shortest route to Manila, which
is only open to light vehicles; and Naguilian Rd, which terminates in Bauang. The
winding, perilous Halsema Hwy heads
north to Bontoc and has been known to
fray the nerves of the most seasoned traveller dont look down!
Victory Liner (%619 0000), Dagupan Bus (%442
5391), Philippine Rabbit (%097 302 1104) and Partas (%444 8431) have frequent services to and
from Cubao, Pasay and Sampaloc stations
in Manila (P350, six hours). All depart from
Governor Pack Rd except Victory Liner,
which has a new, ultramodern terminal off
Upper Session Rd. Victory Liner accepts
credit cards.
GL Lizardo (%309 2096) has nine trips a
day to Sagada (P220, seven hours) from
the Dangwa terminal. DRising Sun (%300
4362), based at the bus terminal on Slaughterhouse Rd, has buses to Bontoc (P212,
seven hours, hourly from 5am to 4pm).
Both routes go along the Halsema Hwy.
Also at the Slaughterhouse Rd terminal
youll find Norton Trans, which services
Kabayan (P125, six hours, four daily morning buses). Be prepared for a bumpy, dusty
and sometimes frightening ride.
Ohayami (%0920 637 5188) and KMS (%0921
206 0531) go to Banaue along the paved southern route (via Solano), departing from the
parkview station on Shanum St (P365, nine
hours, four daily).
Philippine Rabbit and Partas have several

buses per day from Governor Pack Rd to
Laoag (P360, seven hours) via Vigan (P260,
five hours) and San Fernando (La Union;
P70, 1 hours). Minibuses to San Fernando
also leave frequently from the Plaza jeepney
area near Rizal Park.
KABAYAN
pop 1277
Nestled amid dramatic, rice-terraced slabs

of mountain terrain and watched over by its
world-famous mummies, Kabayan remains
a virtually untouched jewel.
If mummies arent your thing, Kabayan
is a nice place to hike, stargaze, breathe in
exhaust-free air and marvel at the voluntary
7pm curfew. Kabayan is also the centre of
Ibaloi culture, and many Ibaloi traditions
and animistic beliefs linger, especially in the
surrounding hills. The area is also known
for strong Arabica coffee and tasty kintoman (red rice).
Information
The tourism department at the Municipal
Hall can set you up with guides to climb
Mt Pulag or visit the mummy caves. Kenneth Kelcho, who works at the Municipal
Hall, is an excellent guide and a fountain
of information about the Ibaloi.
Sights & Activities

You get a good overview of the history
and culture of the region at the pint-sized
Kabayan National Museum (%0908 603 0594; donation suggested; h8am-noon & 1-5pm Mon-Fri), 500m
west of town. Two mummies are on display, along with ritual artefacts of the Ibaloi, Kankanay and Ikalahan. The friendly
curator, Juliet Igloso, will open the museum
outside official opening hours.
T H E C O R D I L L E R A K a b a y a n 161
There are two main sites where you can

see mummies. The most interesting and
most difficult to reach is the Timbac Caves
(admission free), five hours from town by foot or
2 hours by private jeepney. The mummies
here, believed to be at least 700 years old, are
extremely well preserved. There are about
30 mummies in the two main caves, but the
forest around Timbac is said to hide dozens
more caves that only Ibaloi elders can locate.
Before visiting, get the gate keys from the
museum or youll be sorely disappointed.
There are more accessible caves near
sitio Bangao in the foothills of Mt Tabayoc
(2812m), 7km north of Kabayan. The most
interesting is the Pongasan cave (admission free),
a half-hour climb straight up from Bangao,
where youll find five coffins with mummies. The mummies here are not as well
preserved as those at Timbac.
About 3km north of Kabayan is the turnoff to Tinongchol Burial Rock (admission free),
where several coffins are housed; its also
accessible via a footpath that starts behind
the National Museum. A short walk south
of town is the Opdas Mass Burial Cave (admission P20), containing hundreds of skulls and
bones between 500 and 1000 years old.
Sleeping & Eating

The quaint Coop Lodge (dm P150; p) on the
main road has half-a-dozen two-bed dorm
rooms with shiny wooden walls. When
thats full the Municipal Hall makes its
dorm rooms (P150) available.
A few of the stores along the main road
serve chicken and rice with whatever vegetable is in season.
Shopping
Kabayan Weaving sells shoulder bags and
other items woven in unique Ibaloi style.
MEETING MUMMY
The centuries-old mummification procedure used in Kabayan is different from that of the nine
other cultures that have practised mummification worldwide, because the internal organs were
not touched. The corpses were dried using the heat and smoke of a small fire, then meticulously
bathed in herbal preservatives. Tobacco smoke was periodically blown into the abdominal cavities
to drive out worms and preserve the organs. The whole process took up to six months. Kabayan
mummification was ended by the Spanish.
The mummies have been frequently stolen and vandalised over the years, so the main caves are
now under lock and key. Locals customarily make offerings of gin and pinikpikan before entering
the caves. Visiting without an Ibaloi guide is a cultural taboo and risks angering the spirits.
NOR TH LUZON
NOR TH LUZON
Baguio is a shopping mecca known for

woodcarvings, traditional weavings, baskets, silver, and temperate fruits and veggies like strawberries and cabbages.
Various hotels and boutiques in town
hawk Ifugao bulol (rice god) woodcarvings
and rataan-laced baskets, but you can save
up to 50% by buying such items wholesale
in one of the many workshops that line
Asin Road, 7km west of the city centre.
There you can also watch Ifugao craftsmen
doing their thing. Take the Asin Rd jeepney
from Kayang St (P15). In Baguio, Teresitas
162 T H E C O R D I L L E R A A r o u n d K a b a y a n
T H E C O R D I L L E R A S a g a d a 163
Sagada

Norton Trans has four morning buses to
and from Baguio (P125, six hours) via Ambuklao.
The road north to Abatan makes the
Halsema Hwy look like an autobahn. Its
truly breathtaking but youll need a good
4WD with high clearance. You can negotiate a private jeepney to Buguias (20km),
then hop on a public jeepney for the final
leg to Abatan (P25, 15km).
For a more adventurous escape, hike to
Timbac Caves with a guide and the keys to
the cave gates; from there its only a two-hour
walk to the Halsema Hwy, where you can flag
down one of the many buses going south to
Baguio or north to Bontoc or Sagada.
AROUND KABAYAN
Mt Pulag (2922m), considered sacred

ground to the Ibaloi and Kalanguya, is the
second-highest peak in the Philippines and
anchors the Cordilleras largest national
park. The Protected Areas Office (PAO; %0919
631 5402; www.pawb.gov.ph/mt_pulag/pulagvik.htm) in
Ambangeg, 1 hours south of Kabayan,
doubles as the parks visitors centre. Theres
a hefty P750 entrance fee for nonresidents,
or P100 for residents, payable here or at
other points of entry.
From the visitors centre a rough road
climbs 12km to the start of the Grassland
Trail near the Department of Environment
& Natural Resources (DENR) ranger station, where you must hire a guide (P500) to
navigate the final 3 hours to the summit.
About halfway to the summit is the grassland camp site (P50).
A more interesting two- to three-day hike
is the Akiki Trail also known as the killer
SAGADA
pop 1350
The absence of noise and pollution are

probably the first things youll appreciate
about Sagada, a tranquil mountaintop town
where you can walk down the middle of the
road and only occasionally be disturbed by
a passing vehicle. Backpackers have been
flocking here for years to enjoy the incredible mountain scenery, cheap dope and
companionship of like-minded travellers.
Sagada fills up quickly in the March-toMay high season. But despite its popularity
it manages to stave off changes that would
detract from its appeal as an ecotourism
destination there are no massive hotels or
blaring discos, and videoke is conspicuously
absent. For many Sagadans, the traditional
way of life remains intact. During harvest
VISITING THE MOUNTAIN TRIBES

While visiting the mountain people of the Cordillera is extremely rewarding, you should consider
that your presence can have a destabilising and corrosive influence on their culture. Parts of the
Cordillera are still very conservative and you should watch your behaviour.
Obvious displays of wealth are a no-no. Gifts are warmly received but should be kept modest;
matches and small bottles of ginebra (gin) work well. When photographing people, keep in mind
that some tribespeople in particular may be superstitious about your camera or suspicious of
your motives. Always respect the wishes of the locals. Ask permission to photograph, and dont
insist or snap a picture anyway if permission is denied.
Most importantly, keep in mind that your visit may be brief, but the impressions you make will
last a lifetime. Treat those you meet politely and with respect and you cant go wrong.
0
0
SAGADA
A
To Lake Danum
(6km); Besao (12km)
300 m
0.2 miles
D
To Tam-aw Handicraft (3km);
Banga-an (5km); Aguid (8km);
Bomod-ok Falls (10km)
16
14
Market
20
19
10
15
2
18
12
St Mary's
Episcopal
Church
St Theodore's
Hospital
7
17
Bridge
Cemetery
Demang
11
Lookout
Kiltepan Peak
(1636m)
6
Right Turn Caf
To Mt Ampacao
(10km)
To Bontoc
(18km)
Ambasing
13
Coffins
Hanging Coffins
To Sumaging
Cave (800m)
INFORMATION
Police Station...................................(see 3)
Post Office.......................................(see 3)
Radio Communications Philippines
Incorporated...................................1 B1
Sagada Newsstand..............................2 B1
Sagada Rural Bank...........................(see 3)
Tourist Information Centre..................3 B1
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

Bokong Waterfalls..............................4
Echo Valley........................................5
Kiltepan Tower...................................6
Latang Cave.......................................7
Lumiang Burial Cave...........................8
Sugong Coffins...................................9
C1
C2
D2
C2
A4
B3
SLEEPING
Alfredo's B&B...................................10
Mapiya-aw Pensione........................11
Masferr Inn & Restaurant................12
Rock Inn...........................................13
B1
D2
B1
C3
celebrations, women wear tapis while older

men don G-strings and gather in the dapay; chickens are sacrificed, gongs are played
and general merriment ensues.
Sagadans are of Applai (Northern Kankanay) ancestry and their native language is
Kankanay although, as in the rest of the
Cordilleras, Ilocano and English are widely
spoken.
It can get chilly at night, especially from
December to February, when temperatures
can drop as low as 4C. From March to
May, temperatures rise as high as 30C during the day. The rest of the year is the wet
season, when the normal pattern is a sunny,
pleasant morning followed by a heavy, long
afternoon shower.
Sagada Guesthouse...........................14 B1
St Joseph's Resthouse.......................15 B1
EATING
Log Cabin.........................................16 B1
Yoghurt House.................................17 A2
SHOPPING
Sagada Weaving...............................18 C1
TRANSPORT
Buses to Baguio.................................19 B1
Jeepneys to Bontoc...........................20 B1
Information
The Tourist Information Center in the municipal building is the dispatch centre for all
guides in Sagada. The fixed rates are reasonable and the system effectively keeps
overzealous freelance guides off the streets.
The taciturn guides rarely volunteer information, but they know the area inside and
out and will answer questions if you ask
them.
Guide rates (P400 for caving, P600 to the
Big Waterfall, P400 to Echo Valley) and private jeepney rates (Mt Kiltepan/Banga-an
return P500/300) rates are clearly posted at
the information centre.
Downstairs from the information centre are the post office and Sagada Rural Bank
NOR TH LUZON
NOR TH LUZON
Mt Pulag National Park
trail which starts 2km south of Kabayan

in Duacan, a barangay of Todiakap. From
the trailhead its two hours to Eddet River
and another six hours to the cow country
camping site. You can camp there or continue on another four hours and camp at
the saddle grassland campsite. Its just 30
minutes from there to the summit, which
is closed to campers. A guide for this route
costs P1800.
There are still-longer routes up Mt Pulag
that take you around the back of the mountain through Tawangan or Lusod, home of
the Kalanguya. Call the PAO or ask guides
in Kabayan for details. Visibility is best in
March and April, and the area sees regular,
heavy downpours July to September.
To get to the visitors centre jump off
the Norton Trans BaguioKabayan bus in
Ambangeg; there are four morning buses
daily.
164 T H E C O R D I L L E R A S a g a d a
(h8-11.45am & 1.15-4.45pm Tue-Sat). The bank

changes cash and travellers cheques at very
poor rates. There is also a police station in
the building.
Across from the municipal building is
the Sagada Newsstand, which sells all the big
domestic newspapers. Both Sagada Newsstand and Yoghurt House (opposite) lend
books in English.
Radio Communications Philippines Incorporated (per hr P60; h8am-9pm) has Internet access but the connection is often down.
Sights & Activities
HIKING
Sagada has a wealth of top-notch hikes to

choose from. As in most of the Cordillera,
your guide will be wearing flip-flops no
matter how rough the terrain. Do not use
him as a role model.
Most of Sagadas famous hanging coffins are high on the limestone cliffs surrounding Echo Valley. Unlike the coffins in
Kabayan, which contain mummies and
were entombed centuries ago, these coffins
contain only bones. Some hanging coffins

are centuries old; others were put there in
the last 40 years. Animistic Applai elders
continue to be entombed in the caves surrounding Sagada if they can afford it. The
gods demand the sacrifice of more than 20
pigs and three times as many chickens for
the privilege of being buried in the caves.
There are many intersecting paths through
the Echo Valley and its tricky to figure out
which way to go. Many people head out for
a stroll and return hours later covered in
mud, picking leaves and thorns out of their
hair. Do the sensible thing and take a guide.
The one-hour loop starts in the town cemetery behind St Marys Episcopal Church,
and ends with an optional 10-minute walk
through Latang Cave, an underground river
that spits you out near the Rocky Valley Inn
& Caf, from where its a short walk back to
town. If you want to walk through Latang
Cave, bring a torch and throw some riverfriendly sandals in your bag.
There are superb panoramic views of the
rice terraces and surrounding mountains
from the Kiltepan Tower, which is about a
40-minute walk (or 10-minute drive) from
town. Take the road heading east out of
town and look for a left turn about 500m
past the turn-off to Rock Inn.
About a half-hour walk east of town are
the small Bokong Waterfalls, where you can
take a refreshing dip. To get here, follow the
road east out of town and take the steps just
after Sagada Weaving on the left. Follow the
path through the ricefields down to a small
river. Cross the river and continue upstream
to the falls. The path continues up to the road
leading to the town of Banga-an, 4km away.
Banga-an, which is serviced by jeepney
(P15, seven per day), is where the excellent
45-minute walk to the much larger Bomodok Falls (Big Waterfall) begins. The walk
traverses rice terraces, and access is sometimes restricted because of traditions associated with the planting and harvest seasons.
Check with the Tourist Information Center
(p163) before going. On the way back ask
your guide or villagers to point you in the
direction of Aguid, a picturesque village
about 3km beyond Banga-an. From Aguid,
walk back to Banga-an along the road.
You can bag a few peaks around here
without too much trouble, including Sagadas highest mountain, Mt Sipitan (2200m).
The majority of this rigorous, full-day hike,

which starts near Lake Danum on the way
to Besao and ends in Banga-an, is through
mossy forest. Mt Ampacao (1889m), 10km
south of town beyond Ambasing, is a much
easier conquest that rewards the climber
with outstanding views.
Sleeping
Accommodation in Sagada is great value. In
the low season (June to November), expect
to get dorm rooms to yourself. These rooms
all have shared bathrooms and cold water
unless otherwise noted; buckets of warm
water are usually available for around P30.
St Josephs Resthouse (%0918 559 5934; dm/d with
cold water P100/500, d/cottages with hot water & private
bathroom P1200/1500; p) This is probably the
nicest place in town, with a variety of rooms

to choose from and excellent views. It consists of several buildings and cottages spread
around a garden overlooking the town; the
cottages are downright luxurious. The restaurant (meals P90) is nice and its swanky
lobby, festooned with artefacts, doubles as a
common area for the dorm rooms.
Masferr Inn (%0918 341 6164; d P300) The
rooms here, set around a cozy second-floor
common area, are simple, warm and inviting. But the restaurant (sandwiches P60,
meals P100) is what makes this place stand
out. Its walls are filled with prints of the
late Sagada-born photographer Eduardo
Masferr. Its hard to describe the power of
these awesome photos. You might ask the
proprietor for a tour of the Masferr Gallery, which is in a private house just outside
of town.
Sagada Guesthouse (%0919 300 2763; dm P150,
d with private bathroom P600) The clean, cheerful
two-bed dorm rooms here are the best value
in town.
Alfredos B&B (%0920 520 0463; d P300) The
simple doubles, better than most in town,
are fine value, and the restaurant has immense charm woody and fragrant, with
a big fireplace.
If you have a car, there are two excellent options on the road to Bontoc. Rock
Inn (%0920 902 8608; dm P300, d with hot water &
private bathroom P1500; p) is in a citrus grove
2km from the town centre. Its new and in
good shape, with a huge, beautiful banquet
hall and top-notch doubles overlooking the
rock garden and dap-ay. Mapiya-aw Pensione
T H E C O R D I L L E R A S a g a d a 165
(%0921 390 0560; dm/d P100/550; p), a bit closer
to town, is exceedingly friendly and rustic.

The rooms have balconies and fine views of
the mountains.
Eating
Theres good food to be had but Sagadas
idea of service is somewhat peculiar
take the initiative and go to the counter to
place your order. If waiters or waitresses
approach your table, they probably think
youre cute.
Log Cabin (%0920 520 0910; meals from P300;
hdinner) This is a surprise and a pleasure.
The Western-style food is hearty and elegantly presented, and on Saturday evening
theres a buffet (P250, prepaid reservations
only) prepared by a French chef, who also
bakes fresh bread for the restaurant. To top
it all off theres good wine and a fireplace.
You must drop by a few hours in advance to
place your order. Theres also one room here
(P1500); its the nicest in town, bar none.
Yoghurt House (breakfast/mains from P75/125) This
is the next best place for a full meal, especially breakfast, when you can get fruit salads and muesli with yogurt. Dinner specials
must be ordered in advance.
Shopping
Weavers at Sagada Weaving produce
backpacks, money belts and other practical items in the traditional patterns of the
region. Youll find less selection but better
prices at Tam-aw Handicraft (barangay Madongo)
on the road to Banga-an, where the weavers
are deaf and/or mute.

From Manila, the quickest way to get to Sagada is to take the Cable Tours (%0918 521 6790)
bus from Quezon City to Bontoc (P600, 12
hours), then hop on a jeepney in Bontoc
(P30, one hour, frequent until dusk). Cable
Tours leaves Manila at 8pm, and begins the
trip back from Bontoc at 3pm.
Getting to Banaue also involves going
through Bontoc (p166).
GL Lizardo has nine daily trips between
Sagada and Baguio (P220, seven hours) along
the scenic Halsema Hwy, which is 2255m at
its highest point. Whizzing around hairpin
turns with barely an arms length to spare
produces either amazement in the drivers
skill or terrible anxiety.
NOR TH LUZON
NOR TH LUZON
CAVES
On the road to Ambasing, just before the

Right Turn Caf, you can see the Sugong
coffins suspended from the cliff face. A short
distance further is a paved road going off
to your left; follow it for 250m and youll
see a path to your left that leads down to
the Lumiang Burial Cave. Over 100 coffins are
stacked in the entrance, the oldest believed
to be about 500 years old.
Nine hundred metres further down the
road a path leads to the exhilarating Sumaging Cave (Big Cave). The further into the
cave you go, the more wet you get and the
more invigorating and thrilling the cave
becomes. Youll need a guide for the full
tour, which takes 2 hours (the guide provides a gas lantern). Muddy and slippery
rocks make the initial descent in Sumaging
Cave tricky; you should take your shoes off
when you reach the smooth limestone and
calcium formations. It looks slick, but bare
feet have remarkably good grip.
The king of Sagadas cave adventures,
suitable for the reasonably fit, is the caveto-cave connection, an underground passage
that links Sumaging and Lumiang caves.
You can start the four- to five-hour journey
on either side. A guide is mandatory.
166 T H E C O R D I L L E R A B o n t o c
T H E C O R D I L L E R A A r o u n d B o n t o c 167
Bontoc
%074 / pop 3064
Whereas Sagada is mellow, Bontoc is a lively,

bustling market town. Until recently, its appeal lay in observing the colourful melange
of tattooed and tapis-wearing tribesfolk coming down from the hills to sell their wares.
Youll still see an occasional old woman with
tattooed arms or an old man in a G-string,
but today Bontoc is best known as a gateway
to Maligcong, Mainit and Kalinga.
NOR TH LUZON
12.30pm & 1.30-7pm Mon-Sat) The only reliable Internet

connection for miles.
PNB (%602 1078; ground fl, Government Commercial
Building) One of the few places in the Cordillera north of
Baguio that cashes travellers cheques. Its ATM does not
accept most international cards, however.
Sights & Activities

The wonderful Bontoc Museum (admission P40;
h8am-noon & 1-5pm) is, quite simply, the best
in North Luzon. Powerful black-and-white
photos and indigenous music accompany
the exhibits one for each of the regions
main tribes. Naturally, the head-hunter exhibits, which display axes used to do the
deed and gansa handles made with human
jawbones, are the most fascinating. There
are some grisly photos of head-hunters
and their booty. The Bontoc huts outside
are definitely worth a look check out the
bedroom in one.
Reward yourself at Wellness Center Massage
(2nd fl, Chico Terrace; h9am-9pm) with a foot spa
(P200) here after a hard days hike.
Sleeping
The two best hotels by far sit right next to
each other in the middle of a ricefield on
the quiet eastern side of the Chico River,
just a 10-minute walk from the city centre.
Bontoc
General
Hospital
1
To Mainit
(18km)
2
Provincial
Capitol
Building
Town
1
Plaza 15
21
The Mountain Province Trade Centre (h8.30am6pm) has woven materials from Sagada, Sadanga and nearby Samoki, all of which have
their own distinctive styles. Luisas Antique
Shop (h6.30am-6.30pm) mostly carries knockoff Igorot artefacts, but savvy buyers will
find the occasional bargain on a genuine
old woven blanket or a Samoki tapis.

Cable Tours (%0918 521 6790) has a daily aircon bus to and from Quezon City, Manila
(P600, 12 hours), leaving Manila at 8pm
and Bontoc at 3pm. DRising Sun has
hourly buses to and from Baguio until 4pm
(P212, seven hours).
Von Von has two early-morning buses
per day that head up the snaking, highwire road to Banaue (P150, two hours);
there is also a jeepney that leaves Banaue
at 8.30am, then turns around and leaves
Bontoc around 1pm (P120).
Frequent jeepneys ply the rough road between Bontoc and Sagada (P30, one hour).
The last one departs at 5.30pm.
23
Market
3
19
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

Bontoc Museum......................6 A2
Football
Field
SLEEPING
Archog Hotel........................... 7
Churya-a Hotel & Restaurant...8
Lynda's Guesthouse.................9
Ridge Brook...........................10
Tchayapan.............................11
20
5
14
8
22
Cable Caf (%606 8013; meals P90; h7am-3pm &

6-10pm) This place has no real competition.
Shopping
C
INFORMATION
Landbank.................................1 A2
Mountain Province Polytech.....2 B1
PNB.........................................3 A2
Police Station.........................(see 4)
Tourism Office.........................4 A3
Wellness Center Massage........5 A2
Eating
Theres live music every night OK, its
mostly 80s pop and Pinoy love songs, but
its something. No other place stays open
past the informal 10pm curfew and you can
snack on wings and drink beer until who
knows, maybe even 11pm.
Kammangay (lunch P50) Its all dog meat all
the time at this local institution.
300 m
0.2 miles
D3
A2
A3
D3
A3
EATING
Cable Caf.............................12 A3
Kammangay..........................13 A3
SHOPPING
Luisa's Antique Shop..............14 A2
Mountain Province Trade
Centre...............................15 A2
TRANSPORT
Cable Tours...........................16
D'rising Sun Bus Terminal......17
Jeepneys to Banaue...............18
Jeepneys to Barlig, Kadaclan &
Natonin.............................19
Jeepneys to Mainit.................20
Jeepneys to Maligcong..........21
Jeepneys to Sagada...............22
Jeepneys to Tinglayen &
Tabuk................................23
Von Von Buses......................24
A2
A3
A3
A2
A2
A2
A2
A2
A3
16
12
10
17
4
18
13
24
11
To Barlig (34km);
Banaue (47km)
Kadaclan (56km);
Natonin (74km);
To Sagada (20km);
Baguio (143km)
There are four buses and jeepneys per day

to Tinglayen (P80, 2 hours); two of those
continue on to Tabuk (P200, six hours).
There are about three jeepneys per day
to Mainit (P30, one hour), Maligcong (P16,
45 minutes), Barlig (P50, 1 hours), Kadaclan (P75, four hours) and Natonin (P100,
six hours). These typically depart from the
villages in the morning and leave Bontoc
between 3pm and 4pm.
hike to Aguid, near Sagada, from Mainit

(six hours over very steep terrain). Both
hikes require a guide.
If you need to overnight, there are two
rudimentary guesthouses in Mainit, Odsey
(r P150) and Gestons (r P150), and one guesthouse near Maligcong, Terraces View (r P100).
See Bontocs Getting There & Away section (opposite) for details of jeepney trips
from Bontoc to Maligcong and Mainit.
AROUND BONTOC
Barlig, Kadaclan & Natonin
The towering, sprawling stone-walled rice

terraces of Maligcong rival those of Banaue
and Batad but draw only a fraction of the
tourists. If you happen to be visiting between June and early August, youll find the
terraces here still green and lush while those
in Batad are fading or already harvested.
Mainit has some scalding hot springs and
several interesting dap-ay and backyard
mausoleums adorned by kalabaw horns a
symbol of the deceaseds wealth.
Maligcong to Mainit is a two-hour grunt
up and down a 300m spine. You can also
East of Bontoc, the secluded, rarely visited

villages of Barlig, Kadaclan and Natonin
have magnificent rice terraces. From Barlig it takes only about four hours to summit this regions highest peak, Mt Amuyao
(2702m). The walk from Barlig to Batad,
over Mt Amuyao, is one of the best two-day
hikes in the Cordillera. Natonin to Mayoyao
is a two- or three-day trek. Guides around
here typically charge P500 per day and can
be found in Barligs Municipal Hall.
Beautiful Kadaclan boasts a guesthouse
called the Shangri La (r P70). You wont confuse it with its five-star namesake, but you
Maligcong & Mainit
NOR TH LUZON
Trade Centre; changes money.
Mountain Province Polytech (per hr P50; h8am-
To Tinglayan (46km);
Lubuagan (65km);
Tabuk (104km)
River
Raynoldo Waytan, better known as Kinad

(%0920 899 3357), is an experienced guide
and also acts as a de facto tourist information centre. He tailors trips to Maligcong,
Mainit and further afield for around P700
per day for groups of one to four, excluding food. You can contact Kinad and other
guides through the tourism office at the
Town Hall, or through most hotels.
Landbank (%602 1286) Near the Mountain Province
0
0
BONTOC
To Maligcong
(7km)
Chi co
Information
Ridge Brook (%0928 402 5876; dm/d P175/700; p)

and Archog Hotel (%0918 328 6908; www.archog
hotel.com; s/d P300/500; pn) both have decent
restaurants and clean, good-sized rooms
with cable TV. Ridge Brook also has an
annex up the road.
Churya-a Hotel & Restaurant (dm/d/tr P100/350/
600) is the best guesthouse in the city, though
thats not saying much. It scores points with
its tastefully adorned common area and caf,
set on a balcony overlooking the main street.
The rooms are clean if unspectacular.
If the above are booked out try Lyndas
Guesthouse (%0918 698 3303; dm/d P100/350) or
Tchayapan (dm/d P100/400), which has a popular
restaurant with balcony seating.
Hal se a Hwy
m
BONTOC
168 T H E C O R D I L L E R A K a l i n g a P r o v i n c e
cant beat the price. Landlocked Barlig also

has a curiously named guesthouse, Sea World
(r P70), in addition to the Halfway Inn (%0910
300 9010; r P70), which has a satellite phone and
a restaurant.
See Bontocs Getting There & Away section (p166) for details of jeepney trips from
Bontic to Barlig, Kadaclan and Natonin.
Rugged, inaccessible and barely touched by
civilisation, this northern province in the
heart of the Cordillera offers breathtaking
scenery and the chance to venture where
few travellers have gone before. Kalinga is a
place where weekends arent even a concept,
let alone a reality; a place where animals are
frequently sacrificed in caao; a place where
traditional law still trumps the laws of the
modern world. Here youll meet the last of
Kalingas once-notorious head-hunters and
see tattooed tribeswomen with snake bones
in their hair. Youll dwell amid free-ranging
livestock and hike for days along ancient
mountain trails to remote villages enveloped in rice terraces every bit as spectacular
as those in Bontoc and Ifugao.
Travel here has its risks, to be sure. If
you get hurt it could be days before you
have access to modern medical care. (Tribal
remedies should be easier to come by.)
Plumbing is nonexistent, and forays into
the bushes often attract a cadre of voracious pigs looking for a tasty meal. Getting
around in Kalinga usually involves riding
on the roof of a jeepney with dozens of
locals who view you as a curiosity. Be aware
that landslides can foul up any trip, especially in the wet season.
The practice of head-hunting has largely
ceased, but tribal wars do break out occasionally. At the time of this writing, the villages of Butbut and Bitwagen, and Dacalan
and Basao, were sparring over longstanding
boundary disputes. While warring tribes
rarely bother foreigners, it helps to be cautious. Always bring a guide when trekking
here, both for navigation and to help you
stay out of trouble.
That said, the people of Kalinga are for
the most part wonderfully friendly, and
the chances of untoward incident are slim.
Gifts are received warmly here, so stock up
on matches, gin and, if you really want to
be popular, live chickens.
Tinglayen
T H E C O R D I L L E R A K a l i n g a P r o v i n c e 169
pop 804
WHEN TO SEE THE RICE TERRACES
The best starting point for treks in Kalinga

is Tinglayen, 2 hours north of Bontoc on
the Chico River. Victor Baculi, the barangay
captain of Luplupa (just across the hanging bridge from Tinglayen), is the authority
on Kalinga and youll be engrossed by his
stories about the areas culture and history.
Victors son Roger is a rafting guide and can
advise on rafting, kayaking or inner-tubing
on the Chico. Two good trekking guides
are Francis Pa-In in Tinglayen (who is also
often in Bontoc) and Moises Atuban in Luplupa. Guide rates average P700 per day.
The rice terraces of the Cordillera are constantly in flux. Incredible any time of the year, they are
at their best one to two months before harvest, becoming bright green then gradually turning
gold. Around planting time, the terraces take on a barren, naked look that is also appealing.
Mud-walled terraces, such as those in Banaue, look especially impressive during this time. When
timing a visit to the terraces, you therefore need to take into account both the harvest cycle and
the type of terrace mud-walled or stone-walled youll be visiting.
Many factors go into the timing of the harvest, including rainfall, altitude and, most importantly,
local tradition and preference. Some rice-growing regions of the Cordillera plant twice per year,
others plant only once. The guide below is very rough, but patterns do emerge. For instance, if
you are visiting in June or July, bypass Batad and head to Maligcong. From August to November,
terraces with only one planting per year become hopelessly overgrown.
Banaue Mud-walled. One planting per year, usually around March; harvest in August. Best viewing: June to July
ACTIVITIES
Theres little point in coming here if youre

not willing to go trekking. There are several
exceptional routes some are half-day forays into nearby villages, others are severalday grinds terminating as far away as Tabuk
or Abra province. For the following treks,
your guides will arrange accommodation and
transport to the trailhead where necessary.
Other trips include hikes to Sumadel (a
five-hour return hike) and Dananao. These
villages are home to some of the 10 remaining headhunters in the immediate vicinity,
distinguishable by their elaborate chest tattoos. The Dananao hike is best combined
with the demanding trek to Tulgao. There
are pleasant hot springs and a 30m waterfall
near Tulgao. From Dananao you can also
walk another three hours up to the untouched village of Balay, from where paths
lead west to Abra.
Another excellent one-day hike southwest
of Tinglayen is NgibatButbutBuscalan
Bugnay. You have to be in reasonably good
shape and prepared to negotiate a few precarious sections with steep drop-offs on
one side. Buscalan is a beautiful village
with pretty stone-walled rice terraces and
many traditional houses. The track between
Buscalan and Bugnay is the most striking
section, passing through rolling, grassy
mountain terrain. If youre lucky youll get
a good view of the Sleeping Beauty mountain chain, said to resemble what else a
sleeping woman.
If youre ambitious, the NgibatButbut
BuscalanBugnay and TinglayenTulgao
hike can be combined into a two-day trek
with an overnight in Butbut.
(before harvest) and February to March (cleaning and planting time).

Barlig, Kadaclan and Natonin Stone-walled. Similar to Hapao and Hungduan.
Batad Stone-walled. Two plantings per year, roughly in August and in February; harvests in June and December.
Best viewing: April to May and October to November.
Hapao and Hungduan Mostly stone-walled. One planting per year, around February; harvest around June. Best
viewing: April to May.
Kalinga Stone-walled and mud-walled. Varies widely, but usually two plantings, with a season similar to Batad.
Kiangan area Stone-walled and mud-walled. Similar to Batad.
Maligcong and Bontoc area Mostly stone-walled. Similar to Banaue.
Mayoyao area Stone-walled. Similar to Batad.
East of the Chico River, Tanudan municipality sees fewer visitors than the villages
west of Tinglayen. This is extremely isolated
and rugged terrain. Kalinga culture survives
intact here, with tattooed women, traditional
houses and spectacular rice terraces. Its a
tough all-day walk from Tinglayen to Dacalan barangay, then another six hours to the
scenic village of Lubo near Tanudan. From
Tanudan you can catch a jeepney to Tabuk.
For a shorter walk, try the Tinglayen
AmbutoLigligTinglayen loop, which
takes you through some small rice terraces,
as well as villages where a few indigenous
houses remain.
SLEEPING & EATING
The Sleeping Beauty Resthouse (r P200) in Tinglayen and the Luplupa Riverside Inn & Restaurant (r P200) serve food and have a few
basic rooms. Sleeping Beauty also has a
store where you can stock up on water and
snacks for the trail.
Four buses and jeepneys per day from Bontoc stop in Tinglayen (P80, 2 hours, 45km),
and there are also four daily jeepneys to and
from Tabuk (P100, three hours, 65km).
Tabuk
pop 78,663
The capital of Kalinga province is a flat,

dusty, sweltering university town on the
banks of the Chico River. Theres not a
whole lot to do here, but Chico River Quest
(% 0920 205 2680; www.chicoriverquest.com; lower/
upper Chico River run P3500/6500) runs rafting trips
on the Chico River from June to December. The up-river run involves a three-hour
morning jeepney ride to Tinglayen, where
the rafting trip starts.
Kalinga College of Science & Technology, off the main intersection, has Internet
access for P30 per hour.
The best hotel in Tabuk is the Davidson
Hotel (%0917 852 7538; Provincial Hwy; s/d P750/880;
pnai ), near the city centre, with
small, clean doubles. A budget option is
the Kalinga Youth Hostel (dm P150) near Chico
River Quest.
Autobus and Victory Liner have a couple
of buses per day to Manila (P650, 11 hours),
and there are frequent vans and jeepneys to
Tuguegarao (P50, 1 hours).
Abra Province & Around

On the way from Tinglayen to Tabuk, about
7km north of Lubuagan, a fork off the main
NOR TH LUZON
NOR TH LUZON
KALINGA PROVINCE
170 T H E C O R D I L L E R A B a n a u e
T H E C O R D I L L E R A B a n a u e 171
(%074-752 8098; Capitulasion St, Zone 2; d with fan/aircon P600/1000; p).
Bangued is more easily accessed from

Vigan, Ilocos Sur, which is just 1 hours
away by bus (P40).
BANAUE
%074 / pop 2312
Its no idyllic mountain getaway like Sagada, but Banaue sits at the foot of a truly
mesmerising display. These mud-walled
rice terraces, North Luzons most famous
sight, have a pleasing, organic quality
that differentiates them from the stonewalled terraces in most of the Cordillera.
World Heritagelisted, they are impressive not only for their chiselled beauty but
because they were created around 2000
years ago.
Sights & Activities

VIEWPOINT
Its a 10-minute tricycle ride up to the viewpoint (return P180), which is the best place
to observe Banaues famed mud-walled
terraces in all their glory. The viewpoint
actually consists of four viewpoints lining
To Barlig
Magulon
Pula
Pat-Yay
To Mayoyao
(18km)
Guinihon
Cambulo
Talboc
To Native
Village Inn (8km);
Hapao (16km);
Hungduan (22km)
To
Mayoyao
(20km)
Patpat
Guitte
Waterfall
Bocos
Matanglag
See Enlargement
Batad
Batad
Junction
Banaue
Habbang
Ducligan
10
Anaba
Dalican
Bangaan
Kinakin
Talop
INFORMATION
Banaue Tourist Information Center.....1 B5
Nico....................................................2 B4
RSR....................................................3 B5
Poitan
8
Tam-an
ve
To Auto Bus
Terminal (75m);
Lagawe (24km);
Kiangan (34km);
Solano (50km);
Manila (340km)
Ri
12
Alimit
The well-staffed Banaue Tourist Information

Center (%386 4011; h6am-7pm), located on the
main square, will give you the scoop on hiking in the area. It also maintains a definitive
list of prices for accredited guides (P800
for full-day hikes) and private transport to
and from selected locations. You can get
a rudimentary map of the area here or at
most hotels for P10.
There are cheaper freelance guides lingering around, but most arent equipped
for mountain rescues.
Batad has its own network of guides; see
p173.
Stock up on pesos as its difficult to change
money and impossible to cash travellers
cheques in Banaue. RSR is a convenience
store that changes US dollars at a poor rate;
some hotels accept payments in dollars.
Nico (%386 4097; per hr P60), near the Banaue
Tourist Information Center, is the only reliable Internet connection in town.
Theres a post office inside the town hall,
just southeast of the main square.
4 km
2 miles
Mt Amuyao
(2702m)
To Bontoc (43km);
Sagada (63km)
in R
Information
0
0
BANAUE & AROUND
Ma
The rice terraces were built by the Ifugao.

Along with being the most feared headhunters in the Cordillera, they were skilled
engineers who invented a sophisticated irrigation system of bamboo tubes and elaborate mud channels to bring water to the
terraces.
The Ifugao were as skilled at carving
wood as they were at carving terraces, and
their sacred wooden statues, the bulol, still
remain an icon of the Philippines.
While Banaue remains the centre of the
rich Ifugao culture, tourism now shapes the
town. A paved road from the lowlands ensures that thousands of tourists visit the city
each year, and theres no shortage of aggressive guides, drivers and hawkers looking to
make a buck off them. Fortunately its easy
to leave the tourists behind by escaping to
villages like Batad, which have their own
incredible rice terraces.
11
13 Hanging
2 Footbridge
irs
Sta
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

Banaue Museum................................4
Museum of Cordillera Sculpture.........5
Tappia Waterfall................................ 6
Viewpoint...........................................7
A5
A5
D2
A1
SLEEPING
Banaue Hotel & Youth Hostel.............8
Banaue View Inn................................9
Family Inn........................................10
Greenview Lodge.............................11
Las Vegas.........................................12
People's Lodge & Restaurant............13
Sanafe Lodge & Restaurant..............14
Spring Village Inn.............................15
A3
A5
D2
B4
B4
B4
B5
A5
EATING
Caf Jam..........................................16 B5
Market
14
18
3
17 19
16
1
Main
Town
Square
Hall
DRINKING
Viewers............................................17 A5
SHOPPING
Montana & Tex................................18 B5
21
15
5
20
0
0
100 m
0.1 miles
the road to Bontoc at 200m intervals. The

best time to view the terraces is late in the
afternoon, when they are backlit by the setting sun. The higher you go, the better the
view. There are souvenir shops at most of
these points, and at one you can get your
photo taken with old Ifugao ladies decked
out in full tribal regalia.
TRANSPORT
Departure Point for all Jeepneys.......19 A5
KMS Bus Station...............................20 A5
Ohayami Bus Station........................21 A5
MUSEUMS
Owned by descendents of anthropologist

Otley Beyer, the Banaue Museum (admission P30;
h8am-5pm) contains an interesting collection of Ifugao, Bontoc and Kalinga artefacts. There is also the quirky Museum of
Cordillera Sculpture (admission P100; h7am-5pm),
next to Spring Village Inn, where hundreds
NOR TH LUZON
NOR TH LUZON
Banaue & Around
road takes you through hidden BalbalasangBalbalan National Park and on into Abra Province. Its about four hours drive from the
turn-off to Abras capital, Bangued. Public
transport along this road is infrequent, so
youll need a private 4WD or a mountain
bike to make the trip.
The two-hour drive from Balbalan to
Balbalasang is arguably the most scenic
drive in the country, dipping into yawning gorges and cutting across jagged peaks,
each hairpin seeming to bring into view a
new waterfall, rice terrace or river.
Balbalasang-Balbalan National Park was
established to commemorate Kalinga opposition to government-backed logging operations in the area in the 1970s. There are a
couple of good camping spots one of the
best is along the river in Balbalasang and
outstanding hiking in the area.
Entering the mountains of Abra province, the ravages of large-scale logging
during the Marcos years become plainly
visible. One of Luzons most economically
depressed provinces, Abra has little appeal
unless you are interested in studying the
Tingguian (Itneg) people.
In Pearrubia, a 10-minute tricycle ride
from Bangued, the family of Norma Mina
is trying to revive the fading indigenous art
of natural dyeing.
The Abraeniana Institute and Research Center,
on the campus of Divine World College in
Bangued, has a good museum dedicated to
Itneg culture.
In Bangued stay at King David Palace
172 T H E C O R D I L L E R A B a n a u e
of bulol and other Ifugao woodcarvings, including some rare originals, are on display.
There are also some fascinating old books
that you can read, including a 1912 National Geographic on Ifugao head-hunters.
Tourist brochures still advertise these as

artists colonies, but youre not likely to
see much creating going on. Still, the hikes
between these villages traverse ricefields
and are pleasant enough if youre not up
to tackling the longer treks further afield.
Youll see traditional Ifugao houses in all
of these villages.
Much of the 45-minute hike from Taman to Poitan (which starts near Banaue
Hotel & Youth Hostels swimming pool)
follows a century-old irrigation canal. Once
you reach Poitan, ascend to the road, go left
toward Banaue, then hang a right at a staircase a few minutes later and start climbing. In 30 minutes youll reach Matanglag,
where a few bronzesmiths work. From here
its another half hour to Bocos, known for
its woodcarving. Along the way youll pass
the waterfall visible from Banaue. From
Bocos you can descend to Banaue or head
west across yet more rice terraces and end
up at the viewpoint. Ask for directions frequently or bring a guide if you dont want
to get lost.
Sleeping & Eating

Doubles and singles have private bathrooms and hot water unless otherwise
noted; shared bathrooms have cold water
only, with hot-water buckets available for
around P40. In the low season (June to November), one or two people can easily grab
an entire dorm room for under P200. Book
ahead in the high season.
The best hotels tend to double as the
best restaurants. Most restaurants close by
9pm.
Banaue View Inn (%386 4078; dm/d P150/600;
p) This inn sits at the top of a hill overlooking town and the rice terraces. Rooms
are pleasant and clean. You might ask the
owner, Lily, to regale you with stories about
her grandfather, renowned Yale anthropologist Otley Beyer, who wrote extensively
about Ifugao culture, or her father, William,
a swashbuckling antiques dealer who sired
16 children. Some of Otleys books and Williams pieces are on display next door at the
family-owned Banaue Museum.
Sanafe Lodge & Restaurant (% 386 4085;
sanafelodge@yahoo.com; s/d P400/700) This hotels
lobby is peppered with Ifugao sculptures
while the huge outdoor patio, with a riceterrace view, is a must for happy hour. The
rooms are adequately clean but cant compare to the restaurant, which is the best in
the town centre. Meat, pasta and Filipino
dishes average P130.
Greenview Lodge (%386 4021; dm/d P100/600)
The rooms here are the nicest in town,
cosy and clean with shiny parquet floors.
The doubles have queen-sized beds. Its in
the town centre and two rooms have riceterrace views.
Banaue Hotel & Youth Hostel (%386 4087, 02524 2502 in Manila; dm/d P200/1500; pis) This
concrete monstrosity has zero character,
but it does boast upscale touches like a
fancy restaurant, business centre, spa and
nice bathrooms. Unless its busy, you may
feel inspired to act out scenes from The
Shining in the depressing long hallways.
Caf Jam (%386 4008; meals P110) Tidy restaurant with a good sound system and a patchy
Internet connection (P60 per hour).
There are two places outside of Banaue
where you can stay in transplanted Ifugao
huts. The best is Native Village Inn (%0926
700 3647; huts with shared bathroom P700), 9km from
Banaue on the road to Hapao. Its perched
atop a high ridge with amazing views of the
terraces below. To get here take a tricycle (return P300) or jeepney. Overlooking scenic
Bangaan, 14km east of town, theres the Family Inn (small/large huts with shared bathroom P300/600).
Also recommended:
Peoples Lodge & Restaurant (%386 4014; dm/s/d
P150/300/400) Has a popular restaurant; the two-bed
dorm rooms are a steal.
Spring Village Inn (%386 4037; d P600) Clean rooms
with good views.
Las Vegas (s/d with shared bathroom P150/200) Good
budget choice in centre. The restaurant tends to stay open
later than 9pm.
Entertainment
Viewers (%386 4046) has live acoustic music
nightly until 10pm. The Banaue Hotel &
Youth Hostel stages performances of traditional Ifugao dancing for large groups
(P1500 per group).
T H E C O R D I L L E R A A r o u n d B a n a u e 173
Shopping
ACTIVITIES
Ifugao woodcarvings and crafts are everywhere, but Montana & Tex, near Caf Jam,
has the best selection. There are a couple of
workshops on the main road toward Bocos
where you might find better deals.
Considering you have to walk into Batad,

its hardly surprising that the main draw
is hiking. What follows are just a few of
the many hikes in the area. The Banaue
Tourism Information Center (p170) or any
guide can recommend longer treks.
Batad has a network of guides accredited
by the Batad Environmental Tour Guides
Association. Twenty per cent of all fees
these guides collect goes toward restoring
the rice terraces. Guides arent necessary
for all hikes around Batad, but youll find
the local knowledge of these guides a huge
asset, especially if you want to locate local
craftmakers.

Auto Bus has a direct bus between Banaue
and Manila (Sampaloc), departing Banaue
at 5.30pm and Manila at 10pm (P462, nine
hours). Its a good idea to reserve in advance. Alternatively, take a jeepney to Lagawe (P25, 30 minutes), then another to
Solano (P48, 1 hours) and catch a Manilabound bus there (P350, seven hours).
KMS (four buses per day) and Ohayami
(three buses per day) travel between Banaue
and Baguio (P365, nine hours) via Solano
and San Jose.
Two Von Von buses heading to Bontoc pass by Banaue every morning (P150,
two hours); theres also an 8.30am jeepney
(P120) that leaves Bontoc around 1pm.
Connect to Sagada in Bontoc.
To get to Kiangan (P50, one hour) you
must change jeepneys in Lagawe. There are
four jeepneys and one minibus per day to
Hungduan (P55, 22km, two hours) via Hapao
(P45, 17km, 1 hours). Hapao is within tricycle range (return P600, 1 hours).
See p174 for details on getting to Batad.
All jeepneys leave from the main
square.
AROUND BANAUE
Besides Banaue, four other Ifugao rice terraces are included on the Unesco World
Heritage list: Batad, Mayoyao, Hapao and
Kiangan. With the exception of Batad, these
terraces can all be seen from the road. All
except Mayoyao, 40km east of Banaue over
a very rough road, are covered here.
Batad & Around

pop 1100
Batads amphitheatre-like stone-walled rice

terraces are widely considered the worlds
most striking. The recent arrival of electricity
has brightened things up a bit, and the completion of a road nearby has brought it a bit
closer to civilisation, but Batad remains your
quintessential backpacker mecca, a place
where you can lose yourself amid stunning
scenery and the serene aura of isolation.
Tappia Waterfall Hike
Its a 40-minute hike across the terraces

to the 30m-high Tappia Waterfall, where
you can sunbathe on the rocks or swim in
the chilly water. To get here from the main
guesthouse area, walk down to the village
and then up to the promontory, just to the
left of the Waterfall Side Lodge. The paved
path down the other side is steep and slippery, and should be avoided in the rain.
BatadBangaan Hike
This 2-hour hike is a recommended route

out of Batad or, if you prefer, in. From
Batad, take the path behind Ritas down to
the small river. Cross to the other side, then
head across the small concrete bridge to the
left and pick up the path. When it forks
after 10 minutes go right. From there its
smooth sailing, so you can relax and enjoy
the stunning panoramas of the surrounding
mountains and rice terraces, bisected by a
river hundreds of metres below. Eventually
youll walk through a rice terrace and hit
the main road, from where its 2km to Family Inn overlooking Bangaan, and another
1.5 km from there to Batad junction.
BatadCambuloPulaBanaue
Viewpoint Hike
Youre best off with a guide for this one.

From Batad to Cambulo is around two
hours, from Cambulo to Pula is about three
hours, and from Pula to the viewpoint its
an easy four-hour walk.
Much of this hike is through rice terraces.
The section from Cambulo to Pula follows
a winding river, with terraces carved high
NOR TH LUZON
NOR TH LUZON
TAM-AN, POITAN, MATANGLAG & BOCOS

VILLAGES
174 T H E C O R D I L L E R A A r o u n d B a n a u e
into the mountains. Pula is a tiny collection

of Ifugao houses on a hilly outcrop.
Just outside of Pula, heading toward
Banaue viewpoint, theres a waterfall and
a deep swimming pool under a bridge.
The path from Pula to the viewpoint cuts
through lush forest, a nice change after so
many rice terraces.
If you take this route, you might plan
on spending a night in Pula or Cambulo
there are simple guesthouses in both villages. You can also bail out in Cambulo and
walk back to the main road near Kinakin
(3 hours, 13km), where you can flag down
a ride back to Banaue.
From Pula its a taxing, seven-hour climb
up the regions highest peak (2702m). If
you go youll need a guide (P800 per day)
and a healthy amount of courage. Be prepared to sleep at the radar station on the
top. Amuyao is much easier to scale from
Barlig, near Bontoc (p167).
SLEEPING & EATING
Accommodation in Batad is primarily

found in sitio Chung Chung, perched on
a spectacular hill overlooking Batad village
and its famous rice terrace, known as the
amphitheatre. Ritas, Batad Pension, Hillside and Simons all have basic but appealingly rustic double rooms for P100 per
head. The very friendly Ritas has a couple
of Ifugao huts you can stay in. Simons has
the best view, although Batad Pension and
Hillside have some rooms with views. All
have restaurants of similar quality, although
Simons has the most extensive menu (including malawach, a Yemeni flatbread).
Foreigners Inn sits in the middle of Batad
village at the foot of the amphitheatre, but
youll get better views from Chung Chung.
The guesthouses can fill up in the Marchto-May high season when Filipinos on summer holiday arrive in large groups.
From Banaue, its 12km over a rocky road

to Batad junction, where a 4WD track leads
three bone-jarring kilometres up to the
saddle high above Batad. From the saddle
its a 40-minute hike downhill to Batad.
From Banaue, three or four jeepneys per
day pass by Batad junction (P50, one hour).
From there youll have to walk to the saddle. Alternatively, you can team up with
other travellers and hire a private jeepney
to take you from Banaue to Batad junction
(return P1350) or all the way to the saddle
(return P1850). Tricycles also make the trip
(return P500 to junction, P600 to saddle).
To return to Banaue, either arrange
transport in advance, walk (taking one of
the hikes outlined above), or catch a passing jeepney anywhere along the main road
to Banaue (traffic heading back is heaviest
in the morning).
Hapao & Hungduan

Spread out over the valley floor, the rice terraces in Hapao and Hungduan are dazzling.
To walk to a small pool beside a river in
Hapao (population 2000), a barangay of
Hungduan 17km northwest of Banaue, take
the concrete steps behind the viewpoint and
turn left at the bottom. Follow the paved
irrigation canal for about 10 minutes until
you reach a small group of houses. Its about
another 15 minutes to the river, where you
can cool off in the refreshing water.
Five kilometres beyond Hapao is Hungduan poblasyon (town centre; population
1700), the site of the spectacular Bacung spider web terraces and the jumping-off point
for the six-hour climb up Mt Napulawan
(2642m), the final hiding place of General
Yamashita at the end of WWII.
You can inquire about more hikes at the
useful Hungduan tourism information centre, a couple of kilometres short of Hapao.
You can secure guides at the Hungduan
mayors office (%074-386 4115), where theres
also a guesthouse. Guides cost P500 a day.
There are four jeepneys and one minibus
per day from Banaue to Hungduan (P55)
via Hapao (P45). You can also take a tricycle to Hapao (return P600, 1 hours).
Kiangan
pop 1600
Believed to be the first human settlement in

Ifugao, Kiangan is where Ifugao and American troops helped force General Yamashita,
the Tiger of Malaya, to make his informal
surrender in WWII. A pyramid-shaped War
Memorial Shrine marks the spot where this occurred in 1945. Nearby Million Dollar Hill, so
named because its believed thats how much
it cost the US to bomb the Japanese forces.
T H E N O R T H E A S T B a l e r & A r o u n d 175
THE IFUGAO HUDHUD

Their rice terraces get all the attention, but the Ifugao have another ancient tradition recognized
by Unesco. The epic oral chants collectively known as the hudhud are sung by the Ifugao around
Kiangan to alleviate boredom while planting and harvesting the rice fields.
The hudhud records the history and traditions of the Kiangan Ifugao. It pays homage to the
deeds of heroes and heroines both mortal and immortal, to battles won, to heads taken and
to riches gained. The complete hudhud consists of more than 200 chants, each with its own
chapters and storylines. Reciting just one chant can take up to four days. It is mainly women
who commit these marathon chants to memory and sing them in the fields. The chants are also
recited during funeral wakes.
It is believed the original chants date from the 15th century, although some scholars think
they predate the rice terraces, which could make them more than 2000 years old. Legend has it
that the legendary hero Pumbakhayon was one of the main authors of the hudhud. Bored with
the same old monotonous chants, he appeared one day on a rock and belted out an entirely
new collection of chants, which were duly recorded for posterity by two sharp-minded female
admirers (you can visit the platformlike Rock of Pumbakhayon in the village of Kuto, near Kiangan). The hudhud of today probably bears little resemblance to its earliest incarnation. Like any
oral chant, it has been modified over time by collective re-creation.
These precious chants are now in danger of dying out as younger Ifugao feel they have better
things to do than undertake the Herculean task of committing weeks worth of lyrics to memory.
In an effort to preserve the hudhud, a government-funded school of living traditions has been
established in Kiangan to teach younger Ifugao the hudhud and other ancient tribal customs
that are under threat from the modern world. Unesco named the hudhud a Masterpiece of the
Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity in 2001.
Across the lawn from the shrine is the

Ifugao Museum (h8.30am-noon & 1-5pm), which
houses a small collection of Ifugao artefacts.
Ambuwaya Lake, 3km east of town, is a good
spot for a swim.
The Unesco World Heritage Nagacadan
terraces and Julungan terraces are about 10km
west of town, accessible by tricycle. You can
hike up into the Nagacadan terraces and then
descend to Maggok village (three hours). For
longer hikes, talk to tourism council head
Remi Allaga at the Kiangan Municipal Hall.
Pangaggawan Cave is a three-hour hike
from Kiangan; there are other caves in the
vicinity. From town a classic vertical Igorot
trail leads 1 hours up Mt Kapugan, from
where there are exceptional views of the
surrounding terraces.
On 1 May, Gotad Ad Kiangan Festival celebrates Ifugao performing arts with traditional
forms of singing, dancing and chanting.
The Kiangan Youth Hostel (%0910 324 3296;
dm/d P150/300) has passable rooms.
Autobus has a bus departing Kiangan for
Manila at 6pm (P450, nine hours); the bus
from Manila leaves at 9.30pm. You can also
take a jeepney to Solano (P60, two hours)
and flag down a bus to Manila there. KMS
has a bus to Baguio departing at 5.30pm

(P350, nine hours).
Getting to Banaue involves taking a jeepney to Lagawe (P25, 30 minutes, hourly),
then another to Banaue (P25, 30 minutes,
every 30 minutes).
THE NORTHEAST
The northeast is dominated by the fertile
Cagayan Valley, which is crisscrossed by the
Cagayan River and bordered on either side
by the Cordillera and the Sierra Madre. The
Sierra Madre, which extend from Aurora
province in the south to the tip of Cagayan
province in the north, are among the countrys most impenetrable mountains and are
home to wild and woolly Northern Sierra
Madre Natural Park. The northeast also
includes the provinces of Nueva Vizcaya,
Isabela and Quirino.
BALER & AROUND

%042 / pop 30,000
Cut off from the outside world by the Sierra Madre and the Philippine Sea, Baler
(bah-lehr), the capital of Aurora province,
NOR TH LUZON
NOR TH LUZON
PulaMt Amuyao Hike
176 T H E N O R T H E A S T B a l e r & A r o u n d
T H E N O R T H E A S T N u e v a V i z c a y a 177
Baler
Ca
batangan
Buhangin
is
Lu
Riv
er
St
Rizal St
Provincial
Hospital
T Molina St
Municipal
Hall
Zamora St
Gloria St
Burgos St
fa
ni
Bo
11
5
6
10
Sabang
Beach
cio
12
You may be able to catch a cargo ship

from Cemento wharf to Palanan in Northern Sierra Madre Natural Park (p178).
NUEVA VIZCAYA
Dibut Bay
D3
D4
TRANSPORT
Bus Station.................................12 B4
Cemento Wharf.........................13 C1
Zabali Rive
New Baler
Public
Market
San Luis St
Burgos St
Carasco St
Quezon St
Kabiran St
Aurora St
Mabini St
Quezon
Park
D3
D3
SHOPPING
Pasalubong Centre.....................11 B4
SLEEPING
Amco........................................... 5 D3
Bahia de Baler Garden
Hotel.....................................6 D3
Capitol
%078
River
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

Baywatch.....................................3 D4
Museo de Baler............................4 C3
River
Angara St
Bay's Inn......................................7
Surfer's Inn..................................8
Cape
Encanto
DRINKING
Cocohut......................................9
Maharajah................................. 10
This province west of the Cordilleras is usually bypassed by travellers, but it does hold
some appeal.
Solano
pop 52,000
Solano is a fairly typical commercial centre, but it does make a convenient stop for
those who want to break up their journey
from Manila to Isabela, Cagayan or even
Banaue.
0
0
1 km
0.5 miles
Governors Garden Hotel (%326 6053; J Manzano

St; s/d P870/970; pa) is a once-refined place
that is still the nicest place to stay in Solano.

A quieter option is Sheila Maries (%326 5135;
Bintawan Rd; r P1000; pas ), which has
a couple of nice rooms set amid strange
pools. Its 1km outside the town centre.
Ayuyang (115 Magsaysay St, Solano; a) is a cluttered and comfortable bar with a nautical
theme. It stays open well past midnight and
has nightly live acoustic music.
Buses heading between Manila and points
north are constantly zooming through
Solano. To Manila, it costs P350 and takes
seven hours. The main companies are Victory Liner, Baliwag, Florida, Auto Bus and
Dagupan Bus.
NOR TH LUZON
Cement
o
Luis
San Luis
Ditumabo
Falls
Dicasalarin
Cove
INFORMATION
Gr8site.........................................1 C4
Provincial Tourism
Office.................................... 2 A4
To Cabanatuan (120km);
Manila (235km)
Gomez St
Baler is a seven-hour drive from Manila,

with the last three hours on a rugged dirt
road over the southern Sierra Madre. Genesis has three early-morning air-con buses
per day to and from Pasay (P317).
From all other points in North Luzon, you
must travel first to Cabanatuan. DLiner has
eight buses per day between Cabanatuan
and Baler (P130, four hours), and there are
air-con vans as well (P150).
Pingit
Recto St
Castillo
Ri
Sa
Cemento
Sabang
ver
Los Confites
Reef
13
Digisit
Baler
Bacong
Cemento
Beach
Sabang
Beach
Bitong St
Next to the public market in Baler, Pasalubong Centre sells locally made crafts and
hand-woven hats at good prices.
nt
me
rge
nla
E
See
Cocohut (h8pm-2.30am) and Maharajah (h8pm2.30am), right next to each other across the
road from Bays Inn, roll out live-music
acts every night. They can get pretty rowdy
on weekends.
Shopping
Baler Bay
River
Agu a n g
lo
Drinking
PHILIPPINE
SEA
Charlies
Point
ba
Offshore typhoons kick up big swells for

surfing between August and October. From
November to March, onshore breezes
make conditions tough, but that doesnt
stop the town from hosting the Aurora Surfing Cup every February on Sabang Beach, an
endless strip of fine dark sand extending
north from Baler proper to Charlies Point,
the river-mouth break seen in Apocalypse
Now. The biggest waves are over a reef at
Cemento Beach, 6km south of town across the
San Luis and Cemento Rivers.
When the Baler Boys are not out catching waves, youll find a few of them hanging
out at a lifeguard stand dubbed Baywatch
in the middle of Sabang Beach. They rent
boards for P150 per hour; lessons are also
P150 per hour. The other option for board
rental is the Surfers Inn, which has the same
prices as Baywatch.
If you continue 4.4km past Cemento wharf,
youll come to Digisit, where you can snorkel
off the reef. From Digisit you can hike further
south to Dicasalarin Cove (two to three hours),
where there is a nice white-sand beach. Youll
need a guide for this jungle hike.
Inland from Baler, in the jungle near San
Luis, are the Ditumabo Falls (Mother Falls),
which drop 15m into a small reservoir above
an unfinished hydroelectric dam. The turnoff to the falls is on the left, 5.7km west of
San Luis (just before the small bridge leading into barangay Ditumabo). From there,
Sleeping & Eating

Most of Balers accommodation is along the
beach in Sabang.
Bahia de Baler Garden Hotel (%0920 555 0451;
d P1200; pa) The nicest rooms in town
are here. While its large, neon-lit restaurant
is not as sophisticated as it thinks it is, it
does have air-con, good seafood and Jose
Cuervo tequila.
Bays Inn (%209 4312; d with cold water & fan/air-con
P350/750; p) Its lively beachfront restaurant does a reasonable job of capturing the
surfer ethos, with yummy tacos (P40) and
a grungy postpunk play list. The rooms are
just OK, however.
Amco Beach Resort (%209 4209; d P750; pa)
Further down the road, this is a large, somewhat quaint colonial-style building set well
off the beach. The rooms are above average
for Baler, average for anywhere else.
To
Palanan
Di
NOR TH LUZON
Sights & Activities
10 km
6 miles
Rive
(P750 per day).
uc
ao
Sa
4373; Provincial Capitol Compound; h8am-noon, 1-5pm

Mon-Fri) can set you up with hiking guides
Pac
There are no ATMs and banks do not change

cash. Gr8site (cnr San Luis St & Burgos St; per hr P40;
h9am-10pm) is the place for Internet access.
The friendly Provincial Tourism Office (%209
0
0
BALER
ve
Information
walk or take a tricycle 2.1km along a rugged

4WD track to the small dam, from where its
a somewhat technical 45-minute hike to the
falls up a creek bed next to a water pipeline.
You can hire a bangka at Cemento wharf and
negotiate a price to explore secluded beaches
and coves north and south of Baler.
Museo de Baler (Quezon Park; h8am-noon & 1-5pm)
has some interesting photos and exhibits on
the history and culture of the area.
Ri
is best known as the location of the surfing

scene in Apocalypse Now. The local Baler
Boys, who learned to surf in the 70s on
boards left behind by the cast, today offer
what must be some of the cheapest surfing
lessons on the planet.
Baler is basically a one-trick town, although good hiking and beach-exploring
opportunities do exist for more adventurous
travellers. Those looking to get away from it
all will have no problem doing so here.
178 T H E N O R T H E A S T N o r t h e r n S i e r r a M a d re N a t u r a l Pa r k
To get to Banaue, you must first take a

jeepney to Lagawe (P48, 1 hours), then
another to Banaue (P25, 30 minutes).
Around Solano
The Alayan Caves, purported to be the fifthlargest cave system in the Philippines, are in
Capisaan, a barangay of Kasibu, 40km (two
hours) east of Solano. A guide is always
around in Kasibu.
Ambaguio, a Kalanguya mountain town
25km west of Solano, is a good base for the
six-hour hike up Mt Pullol, from where there
are excellent views of the Luzons highest
peak, Mt Pulag (2922). You can also launch
an assault on Mt Pulag from this side, but
it will take about three days. Contact the
Nueva Vizcaya Tourist Office (% 805 3970) in
Bayombong for help securing a guide from
Ambaguio.
Travel doesnt get much more rugged than

in this vast expanse of mountainous, critterinfested rainforest that dominates North Luzons east coast. The Switzerland-sized park
hosts more than 60% of the plant species
found in the country and 29 threatened species of animal, including the critically endangered Philippine eagle, the countrys national
bird. The worlds most endangered crocodile also lives here. The parks unspoiled
coastline is inhabited by the Dumagats, a
semi-nomadic Aeta (Negrito) group whose
lifestyle has been relatively unchanged for
generations. This region was also a refuge
for the last remaining rebels during the Philippine Revolution American-led forces
captured General Emilio Aguinaldo in the
coastal town of Palanan on 23 March 1901.
There are a couple of good places to get
guides and information. The DOT Region II
Office (right) in Tuguegarao can set you up
with guides or with other groups going in to
the park. Closer to the park theres a DENR
protected areas superintendent office in
Balug, 5km south of Tumauini. About 30km
east of Naguilian is San Mariano, the jumpingoff point for the three-day trek to Palanan.
Guides for this trek can be arranged through
San Marianos helpful mayors office.
Endangered Philippine crocodiles tend to
hang out near San Jose, two hours east of San
Mariano by logging truck (one per day)
if you want to see them, the Cagayan Valley

Program for Environment and Development (CVPED;
%0920 562 3318; www.cvped.org/croc.php) at Isabela
State University in Cabagan has a crocodile
conservation project and arranges guided
observation treks for visitors.
Theres a DENR guesthouse and a few
restaurants in Palanan.
To enter the park you can fly, take a cargo
boat or walk in from San Mariano. Cyclone
Airlines (%078-652 0913 in Cauayan) flies six-seaters to/from Palanan and Maconacon (both
P1650, 30 minutes) from Cauayan, Isabela.
Planes leave when full, usually daily. Chemtrad Airlines (%078-844 3113 in Tugeugarao, 02-833
1974 in Manila) has irregular flights to Maconacon from Tuguegarao (P1900, 35 minutes).
You can find cargo boats bound for Palanan in Baler (one day); boats bound for
Maconacon leave from San Vicente on the
extreme northeastern tip of Luzon. Both
trips take about 12 hours. Be prepared to
wait up to a week for the next ship out of
Palanan. Bangka occasionally make the trip
between Maconacon and Palanan.
To get to San Mariano catch a jeepney or
bus in Ilagan, Cauayan or Naguilian.
TUGUEGARAO
%078 / pop 121,000
Tuguegarao is the political and commercial

capital of Cagayan province. The 14,000 licensed tricycles are a rude interruption to the
otherwise bucolic surroundings, but the city
is a convenient base for forays into the countrys largest cave system, 25km to the east,
and into Kalinga province to the west.
Information
Tuguegaraos main thoroughfare is Bonifacio St. It has plenty of ATMs and Internet
cafs.
The well-staffed DOT Region II Office (%844
1621; Rizal St; h9am-6pm) is an excellent source
of information not only for Tuguegarao
and Cagayan but also for the Batanes and
Babuyan island chains, Nueva Vizcaya and
Northern Sierra Madre Natural Park. Staffer
Selso Turingan is also involved with the Sierra Madre Outdoor Club, which organises
adventures to all of these destinations.
Sights & Activities

More than 300 caves have been discovered in the municipality of Peablanca,
T H E N O R T H E A S T C l a v e r i a & T h e B a b u y a n I s l a n d s 179
about 40 minutes northeast of town. The

seven-chambered Callao Cave and the more
challenging Sierra Cave nearby are both accessible by car. Callao Cave is reached by
walking up 184 steps. Several sinkholes illuminate the cavernous chambers, one of
which houses a little chapel with pews and
an altar. To get here catch a jeepney from
Don Domingo Market, just north of the
city, or take a tricycle (P150).
A must-do excursion if youre in the area
is to hire a bangka (P250) near Callao Cave
and head 15 minutes upriver to watch tens
of thousands of bats pour out of the caves
for a flight over the Pinacanauan River at
dusk. There is a pebble beach with a picnic
table near here.
Further afield, Odessa Cave, estimated to
be at least the second-longest cave system
in the country at 12.5km (it still hasnt been
explored to its terminus), is for advanced
cavers only. Access requires a 7km hike
from Callao, followed by a 30m rappel into
a sinkhole. Two hours north of Tuguegarao,
in the region of Baggao, is another extensive
cave system where youll find Bluewater Cave
and Falls, a series of underground waterfalls.
The Sierra Madre Outdoor Club guides
a wide range of excursions to all the areas caves. A full-day excursion for up to
six people costs P500 to P3000 per group,
including equipment. Price is dependant
on the size of the group and the technical
difficulty of the excursion. You can contact
the clubs guides through the DOT Region
II Office or Callao Caves Resort, across the
Pinacanauan River from Callao Cave.
Adventure & Expeditions (% 855 1298; www
.whitewater.ph) guides kayaking trips on the
Pinacanauan, where clean, green waters cut
through the limestone cliffs. This involves
taking a bangka 5km upstream (P1000),
then navigating the return trip via no-flip
kayaks over class 2 and 3 rapids (P500 per
kayak, P500 per guide). Adventures & Expeditions also organises multiday trips that
include caving, kayaking and rafting on the
Chico River in nearby Kalinga Province.
Sleeping & Eating

Callao Caves Resort (%846 7576; Callao; dm/4-person
cottages with fan P100/800, r with air-con P600; p) This
sprawling compound on the bank of the Pinacanauan has easy access to the Peablanca
caves and a pleasant jungle feel, although its
rooms are far from modern. There are a few

basic restaurants right next door.
Hotel Delfino (% 844 1953; Gonzaga St; s/d
P450/550; pa) Its a bit old and vulnerable
to street noise, but the rooms are big, clean
and cheap. Its Chinese restaurant has some
of the best eats in town.
Hotel Lorita (%846 2565; 67 Rizal St; s/d P690/965;
pa) The rooms here a similar to those at
Hotel Delfino, only slightly newer, slightly
smaller and slightly more expensive.
Hotel Roma (%844 2222; cnr Bonifacio St & Luna St;
s/d P1000/1350; pa) This newly renovated
edifice is the nicest and most modern hotel
in town; its also the priciest.
Hotel Ivory (%844 1275; Buntun Hwy; d with cold/
hot water P350/750; pas) West of the centre, this place tends to be a bit quieter and
has decent rooms.
Tuguegaraos only restaurant of distinction is Elims Court (%844 8175; 19 Del Rosario St;
meals P125; a), which has good coffee, steaks,
a relaxed atmosphere and Internet access.

Air Philippines (%846 7578, 02-855 9000 in Manila) and
Asian Spirit (%844 8141, 02-855 3333 in Manila) both
have Monday, Wednesday and Friday flights
to and from Manila (P3245, one hour). The
Asian Spirit plane from Manila continues on
to Basco, Batanes (P3250, 50 minutes).
Chemtrad Airlines (%02-833 1974 in Manila, 078844 3113 in Tuguegarao) has irregular flights to
Maconacon (P1900, 35 minutes) in Northern Sierra Madre Natural Park, and to
Basco (P3395, one hour).
Victory Liner (%844 0777), Baliwag (%844
4325), Autobus (%844 5519) and Florida Liner
(%846 4259) all run regular buses to and from
Manila (P600, 12 hours), via Solano (P300,
five hours). GMW has buses to Laoag (P333,
6 hours) via Claveria (P196, 3 hours)
and Pagudpud (P270, five hours). Minibuses leave frequently to Tabuk (P75, 1
hours, 55km). All buses depart from near
the Don Domingo Market, north of town.
CLAVERIA AND THE BABUYAN ISLANDS

%078
In the northwest of Cagayan province, the

small coastal town of Claveria has a long,
pretty and clean beach surrounded by mountains. Its a fine place to stop and relax for a
few days if youre travelling on the northern
route between Laoag and Tuguegarao.
NOR TH LUZON
NOR TH LUZON
NORTHERN SIERRA MADRE

NATURAL PARK
180 B ATA N E S B a t a n I s l a n d
B ATA N E S B a t a n I s l a n d 181
Batanes

GMW buses between Laoag (P110, three
hours) and Tuguegarao (P196 3 hours)
come through four times daily in each direction. Frequent minibuses go to Pagudpud
(P40, 1 hours). Flag buses down from near
the Petron station on the National Hwy.
BATANES
Located more than 860km from Manila,
this group of 10 islands, three of them inhabited, seems displaced in time and space.
From Yami, the northernmost island of the
Batanes, you can see Taiwan on a clear day.
BATAN ISLAND
pop 6700
Basco is the capital and commercial centre of

Batanes. Abad St is the main drag, with a few
restaurants and some sari-sari (neighbourhood stores) selling fruit and vegetables.
Yami Island
Sights & Activities
Information
Sleeping
Eco-Cultural Tourism Office (ECT; %0919 369 5341;
ShaneDels Inn (National Hwy; r with shared bathroom per

person P250) This homestay, right off Bascos
main plaza, is the cosiest, cleanest place in
town and by far the best value.
Batanes Seaside Lodge & Restaurant (National
Dianong Bldg, Abad St, Basco) Office head Juliet Cataluna

is a great source of information on the area and can set you
up with trekking guides, homestays in the outlying towns,
bangka hire and just about anything else you need. There
are also multiday island, adventure and heritage tours.
The office is the process of creating an association of guides
trained in ecologically responsible tourism, first aid and
trail maintenance and mapping.
Hwy, Barangay Kaychanarianan; s/d with fan P450/800, s/d

with air-con P800/950) The doubles at this aptly
named hotel, five minutes south of Basco,

are the nicest rooms in Batanes.
North
Island
LAGONOY
GULF
Mavudis
Island
Siayan
Island
Mayan Axtak Port
Chinapoliran
Landing
Mt Santa
Rosa (278m)
Paganaman
Port
Raele
Rudloken Port
Mt Riposed
(231m)
Dinem
Island
Axtak
Port
Itbayat
Island
Mauyen
Port
An excellent way to explore the island is

on a mountain bike, which you can hire
from the ECT for P200 per day. The islands
main road, called National Hwy, follows
the coastline anticlockwise from Basco to
Imnajbu. From Imnajbu, a gravel and grass
inland trail takes you through Marlboro
Country and eventually brings you back
to Mahatao. Its not a particularly strenuous ride but completing the full loop takes
six to eight hours, depending on how many
stops you make.
In Mahatao youll see a paved road and
a sign for the fishing village of Diura. The
village is inhabited only during doradofishing season from March to June. From
the end of the road in Diura, its about a
half-hour walk to the dark, narrow Crystal
Cave. Enquire about accommodation at the
Municipal Hall in Mahatao if you want to
spend a night in Diura.
Batanes beaches are mostly strewn with
pebbles or boulders, and the surf can be
dangerous. The beach in Mahatao and
White Beach, just south of Mahatao, are generally considered safe for swimming. North
of Basco, the boulder beach at Songsong Bay
is beautiful.
Mt Iraya (1009m), a dormant volcano that
last erupted in 505 AD, can be climbed in
about five hours and descended in three,
though the summit is usually obscured by
clouds. A climb to the top of Radar Tukon, the
abandoned US weather station on a hilltop
almost 3km from Basco, offers magnificent
360-degree views. Its 30 minutes from the
wharf at Kanyuyan Beach Port in Basco to
the turn-off, and then around another 40
minutes uphill.
rooms are set around a very pink dining

area. If you ask, you can get fresh seafood
meals. Ocean Inn (%866 1160; r P1200; pa)
has by far the cleanest and most modern
rooms, but its restaurant is substandard and
the rooms are incomprehensibly set around
the driveway, motel-style. The Cabicungan Inn
Beach Resort (%866 1011; r with fan P375, with air-con
& TV P1000; pa), the last place on the east
end of the beach, has OK rooms (with private bathrooms) set too far off the beach.
10 km
6 miles
(%866 1071; r with fan P500, with air-con & TV P1000;

p) is a family-run establishment where the
0
0
BATANES
Claverias lodging options are nothing to

crow about. The Bayview Inn & Restaurant
cash and travellers cheques at a poor rate.

s3m (Castelejos St, Basco; per hr P50) Internet access.
NOR TH LUZON
NOR TH LUZON
Sleeping & Eating
PNB (Basco Central School, National Hwy, Basco) Changes
Mt Iraya
(1009m)
If you want to be way ahead of the pack,

walk down to Taggat (Lagoon), just west
of Claveria, and catch a bangka to Fuga, the
nearest of the Babuyan Islands. A few boats
per week make the three-hour trip; P200 per
head should get you there. Fuga is a completely undeveloped island with beautiful
white-sand beaches and no electricity or accommodation. From there, its an easy hop to
the most developed Babuyan island, Calayan,
where the mayor can set you up with a homestay. From Calayan you can catch boats to
the other islands or take a ferry back to the
mainland port of Aparri, 80km east of Claveria (P300, five hours, every other day).
Humpback whales breed in the Babuyan
waters from February to June. There are no
organised whale-watching trips, but you can
charter a bangka from a local fisherman. You
are more likely to spot dolphins, though.
The islands seem less tropical and more

like the Scottish Highlands, but the pace is
slow and the people, despite being among
the poorest in the country, are friendly and
hospitable.
The Spanish didnt set foot in the islands
until 1686, when they forced the indigenous
Ivatan (literally, Place Where Boats are Cast
Ashore) to settle in the lowlands where they
could be administered more easily. Today,
many residents still barter fish, garlic and
other crops to meet their needs.
Its not uncommon for six typhoons to
hit the archipelago between July and November. Traditional homes are built typhoon tough, with metre-thick limestone
walls and bushy roofs made of cogon grass,
and positioned slightly underground.
That quirky, bushy headpiece that some
Ivatan women wear is called a vakul. It is
made from the fibre of the voyavoy palm,
found only in Batanes. Each item takes three
weeks to make but lasts a lifetime, protecting the wearer from the sun and rain.
The Batanes sheer isolation and location in the middle of typhoon alley keeps
mass tourism at bay, so you shouldnt have
too much competition for the islands few
beds. The best time to visit the Batanes is
between March and May, when the weather
is relatively dry.
Local officials are committed to preserving the traditional Ivatan lifestyle and
promoting ecotourism. The national government designated the province the Batanes Protected Landscape and Seascape in
the late 1990s.
Basco
Contracosta
Sights & Activities
Mahatao
Mt Matarem
(453m)
San Vicente
To
North
Luzon
Ivana
Dequey
Island
Uyugan
Nakanmuan
Ivahos
Island
Batan
Island
Centro
Sabtang
Island
Sumnanga
Savidug
Chavayan
Diura
Imnajbu
Itbud
Songsong
182 B ATA N E S S a b t a n g I s l a n d
Ivatan Lodge (National Hwy; s/d/tr with fan P200/

400/600, d with air-con P1000) This can accommodate up to 30 guests and has a roof deck.
Its only a few minutes from Bascos main
plaza.
Batanes Resort (National Hwy, Barangay Kaychanarianan; s/d/tr P550/672/764) The rooms here are
pretty run-down but it has a good restaurant with great views of the ocean. Its about
10 minutes south of Basco.
Until recently, Basco had no restaurants. It
now has several, including Casa Napoli (Abad
St) and Zeden Josh (Anboy St), both of which do
pizza and pasta, and Doque Grill Xaus (National
Hwy), next to Ivatan Lodge.
Around the island there are small shops
that can whip something up for you with
a little advance warning. Plan to eat whatevers been plucked that day from sea or
field usually fish, root crops like kamote
(sweet potato), and other vegetables. After
a typhoon, the fish and vegetables dry up
and youre left with kamote.
Batanes tastiest delicacy, coconut crabs,
have been dwindling in numbers of late. Do
your part for the ecology and abstain from
eating them.

Asian Spirit (%02-855 3333 in Manila) has three
flights per week to and from Manila (P5115,
1 hours) via Tuguegarao (P4000, 50 minutes), plus a direct flight to and from Manila on Saturday morning.
Chemtrad Airlines (%078-844 3113 in Tuguegarao, 02-833 1974 in Manila) flies eight-seat planes
to Batanes from Tuguegarao (P3715, one
hour), departing when full, usually daily.
Pacific Air (%077-772 0663 in Laoag) operates similarly irregular eight-seaters to and from
Laoag (P3200, one hour).
Both Chemtrad and Pacific Air fly from
Basco to Itbayat (one way from P900, 12 minutes). These flights leave when full; theres
usually at least one per day per company.
Weather permitting, round-bottomed
falowa ferries make at least two daily trips
between San Vicente on Batan, and Centro,
on Sabtang (P40, one hour depending on
weather conditions). There are morning
and afternoon departures, the last leaving
each side around 4pm. You can also hire
a falowa to make the crossing for about
P2500. Dont be surprised when the crew

members start fishing en route. Be warned:
its a very rough crossing, and poor weather
could strand you in Sabtang for a couple
days. Trips are less frequent in the stormy
months of November to February.
Getting Around
Jeepneys regularly ply the road between
Basco and Imnajbu from around 4.30am to
8.30pm (P30, 45 minutes). Wait for jeepneys
in front of Builders Bank near the wharf, or
flag them down on the National Hwy.
You can rent a car (P1300 per day), van
(P1600) or motorbike (P800) through the
ECT office.
SABTANG ISLAND
pop 1700
Its hard to believe, but travelling to Sabtang

from Basco increases even further the feeling that you have somehow left the rest of
the world behind.
The lifestyle here is more traditional and
less influenced by the outside. With small
limestone-house villages, steep mountains
and deep canyons of the interior, and rocky
coastline punctuated by small beaches, the
scenery is even more stunning than on
Batan.
The hike around the island is amazing.
From Centro, where the ferry docks, hike
south on the road to Savidug for about an
hour (6km). Outside of town is an idjang
(large rocky hill); in pre-Hispanic times,
Ivatan villages were built on these hills because they were easier to defend.
Its another 2km hike from Savidug to
picturesque Chavayan, where theres an eyecatching pastel-painted church right next to
the beach. Hand-woven vakul (headpieces)
can be picked up for P400 to P600. From
here, its a two-hour hike through the interior to Sumnanga, nicknamed Little Hong
Kong because the houses are crammed up
to the shoreline. Follow the road north to
Nakanmuan and back to Centro.
You can also hire a motorbike (P750) or
private jeep (P1500 to P2000) to explore the
island. Ask the helpful mayor of Centro for
assistance.
If you need to stay the night, the School
of Fisheries in Centro has a nice dormitory
(dm P100). There are also a few sari-sari in
Centro that have canteens. Nights are quiet
in Sabtang, as electricity is available for only

12 hours a day.
To get to Sabtang take a boat from Batan
Island (opposite).
ITBAYAT ISLAND
pop 3600
Its a thrilling 12-minute plane ride from

Basco to Itbayat, a rocky platform of an
island that is the Philippines final frontier
as far as inhabited land is concerned.
Trails crisscross the centre of the island,
making it a great place for trekking in good
weather. There are nice views from Mt Riposed (231m), east of Raele. Its a beautiful
half-hour walk from the main town, Mayan
(Centro), to Paganaman port, where at dusk
youll see farmers returning from the fields,
and fishermen with their days catch. If you
arrive at low tide, you can soak in a little
natural swimming pool in the rocks next
to the port.
The mayor, who can be found at the municipal building, will let you stay in Mayans
Municipal Hall guesthouse (beds P100) with access to a kitchen. Or you can ask around

B ATA N E S I t b a y a t I s l a n d 183
for Mama Eling, who has one clean room

available for the same price. Bring food and
water, since the water here must be boiled
before drinking.
Like Sabtang, Itbayat only gets 12 hours
of electricity per day.
Chemtrad Airlines (%078-844 3113 in Tuguegarao,
02-833 1974 in Manila) and Pacific Air (%077-772
0663 in Laoag) fly from Basco to Itbayat (one
way P900, 12 minutes). The flights leave
when full; theres usually one per day per
company. The landing strip is in the middle of a livestock farm near Raele, 10km
south of Mayan. From there you will be
transported to Mayan in a rustic truck with
wooden wheels. Note that if the weather
acts up you could get stranded on Itbayat
for a few days.
Theres also a weekly ferry from Basco,
but unless its uncharacteristically calm, the
journey is four hours of sheer hell, packed
in with livestock and often seasick people.
Theres no public transport on the island
but there are some residents with motorbikes, or you can hire a car or dump truck
from the mayor.
NOR TH LUZON
NOR TH LUZON
Eating

184
S O U T H E A S T LU Z O N C l i m a t e 185
Southeast Luzon
0
0
SOUTHEAST LUZON
Southeast Luzon
Calagua
Islands
Balesin
Island
Capalonga
Paracale
The southern Luzon peninsula of Bicol is home to two of the Philippines emblematic tourist
attractions: the whale sharks of Donsol and the regal and deadly Mt Mayon volcano.
But the outdoor action hardly stops there. Bicol is home to no less than 22 volcanos, all of
which can be climbed. Secluded beaches, limestone cliffs and nonpareil coastal exploration
opportunities are available on the Caramoan Peninsula and elsewhere. Dive outfits have
sprouted up recently to take advantage of newly discovered sites like the manta bowl in
Ticao Pass, off southwest Sorsogon, and Bagasbas Beach, near Daet, is one of the countrys
more laid-back and accessible surfing locales.
If youre not an adrenaline junkie, Bicol offers fiery food cooked in coconut milk, dozens
of old baroque Spanish churches and the yearly pilgrimage to Nagas Peafrancia Festival.
Gorgeous white-sand beaches are everywhere and there are some reasonably priced highend resorts for those who just want to relax. Bags, hats and mats made of the super-strong
abaca fibre can be bought cheaply throughout the province.
Minasag
Vinzons
Labo
Alabat
Island
Apuao
San Jos Grande
Island
Bagasbas
Daet
Basud
Calauag
Tagcawayan
Lopez
Tablas
Island
Romblon
Island
Del Gallego
Guinayangan
Barana
Caramoa
Ragay
NORTHERN
SAMAR
Sibuyan
Island
Masbate
MASBATE
Swimming alongside Bicol's gentle giants,

the whale sharks of Donsol (p194)
Climate
Bagasbas Beach
Relaxing and waiting for the legendary

Majestics surf break to kick in on
Catanduanes (p198)
Caramoan
Peninsula
White-Sand
Beaches
Marinduque
Exploring the limestone cliffs and pristine beaches of the beautiful Caramoan
Peninsula (p189)
Catanduanes
Mt Mayon
Donsol
Manta Bowl
Catching rays on the myriad isolated

white-sand beaches of the Pacific Coast
Watching rays on a dive trip to the manta bowl (p191) in Ticao Pass
Mingling with mischievous masked men at Marinduque's wild Moriones Festival (p201)
CATANDUANES
Siruma
CATANDUANES
Garchitorena
n Penins
ula
Caramoan
Mt Isarog
National Park
Caramoan
San Miguel
National Park
Bay
Ragay
Presentacion Guijalo
Sabang
Bagacay
Sipocot
Gulf
Pagbilao
Tigaon
Grande
Virac
Buenavista
Macalelon
San Andres
Island
Mt Isarog Sagnay
QUEZON
(1966m)
Naga
Lagonoy
Gulf
To
Pili Mt Iriga
San
Luzon
(1470m)
Lake
Tayabas Bay
Narcisco
Cagraray
Tiwi
Baao
Pasacao
Lake
San Miguel
Mulanay
Island
Iriga
Buhi
Island
Mogpog
Batan
Santa Cruz
Bato
Tabaco
Island Rapu
Lake
Boac
Rapu
Mt Mayon
Bato
Libon
Ligao
MARINDUQUE
Island
Aurora
(2462m)
San Andres
Rapu Rapu
Gasan
Guinobatan
Camalig
Santo Domingo
Buenavista
Pagsagahan
Legaspi Manito
ALBAY Daraga
Tres Reyes
MARINDUQUE
Bacon
Islands
Pio Duran
Jovellar
Sorsogon
Putiao
Gubat
To
Mindoro
Castilla Abuyog
Pilar
Burias
Mt Bulusan
Island
Donsol
Luban
(1560m)
Magallanes
Dumadlangan Mt Juban
Bulusan
BICOL
(730m)
San
Monbon
MASBATE
SORSOGON
Irosin Roque
ROMBLON
Santa
Manta
Bulan Magdalena
Bowl
ROMBLON
Ticao
ISLANDS
Matnog
Ticao
Island Pass
Romblon
Gumaca
HIGHLIGHTS
Learning to hang 10 at equally fickle

Bagasbas Beach (p186), outside Daet
CAMARINES
SUR
Mercedes
Southeast Luzons wet season begins and

ends a little later than in Manila and the
rest of Luzon. It kicks in around late August
and lasts until February, but rain is likely
at any time of the year, especially on the
eastern (Pacific) side. Typhoon season is
July to November. Most typhoons pass by
a couple of hundred kilometres offshore,
but they occasionally make landfall on the
eastern shore.
Language
Most Bicolanos speak Bicol, but Filipino is
also widely spoken and universally understood. Heres a language tip: numbers in Bicol
correspond roughly to numbers in Spanish.
To
Samar
SAMAR
The region does not get a lot of tourists, so

peoples English is spotty outside the major
cities. The main language in Marinduque,
technically part of the Visayas, is Filipino.

Bicol once had a reputation for being
a prime base of the New Peoples Army
(NPA). Today the NPA is a marginalised
force, although every now and then youll
read of shoot-outs between the NPA and
government forces, usually in remote areas.
Despite the alarmist warnings of the US and
Filipino governments, which categorise it
as a terrorist outfit, the NPA rarely if ever
hassles tourists. You only stand a chance of
running into the NPA if you are way off the
SOUTHE AST LUZON
SOUTHE AST LUZON
Lying off Bicols east coast is the pristine and very wet island province of Catanduanes,
known for an erratic but sometimes perfect wave known as Majestics. Marinduque island,
also unspoiled, lies to the west between Bicol and Mindoro. Here you can join a Passion
play during the popular Moriones Festival, take the scenic drive around Mt Malindig in the
south of the island or (should you feel the urge) repent your sins in Boacs lovely church.
Lamon Bay
Atimonan
PHILIPPINE
SEA
CAMARINES
NORTE
Cabalete
Island
Scrambling up Bicol's decidedly nongentle

giant, perfect Mt Mayon (p192)
50 km
30 miles
Jomalig
Island
All the major banks are well represented.

Naga is a university town, so Internet cafs
are everywhere.
Downtown Post Office (University of Nueva Caceres)
0
0
ob
St
Av
os
nt
Sa
P
Bagumbayan St
B
e
neo
St
aC
ru
z
Di
m
a
P
sa
l
an
Di
az
g
St
St
St
itt
ntr
aniba 8
n Dr
Palomar
To Airport (13km);
Pili (15km); Sabang
(64km); Legaspi (93km)
nM
ito S
Cam
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

Kadlagan Climbing Wall...............1 B2
Kadlagan Outdoor Shop...............2 B2
Steady Eddie................................3 D1
SLEEPING
Don
CrownSoHotel................................
4 A3
s St
lid S
t
Grand Imperial
Plaza Hotel...........5 A2
Moraville
Corre Hotel.............................6 B3
gidor
St
Regent Hotel................................
A3
7
Apo
M Castr Tourist Inn................8 B3Dr
Sampaguita
o St
EATING
Bombay Blues...............................9
Coco Leaf..................................10
Geewan.....................................11
Oyster Villa................................12
San Francisco Food Court...........13
D1
D1
A2
A3
B2
DRINKING
Peninsu
la St
Beanbag Coffee.........................
14 D1
Club Bo
M8....................................
15 D1
nifacio
St
Lolo's Music Bar.........................16 A2
kS
To Jeepneys to
Panicuason; Naga
Train Station (100m);
Daet (70km);
Manila (384km)
wa
12
7
es St
me
ga
Pang
Naga
Prie
to S
t
To Daet (70km);
Manila (384km)
St
Market
18
4
a IV
Eating & Drinking
13
San Francisco
Church
aS
St
To City Hall Complex

(100m); Naga City Visitors
Center (100m)
er
St
Abell
a St
fr
Av
les
Plaza
Rizal
Plaza
Quince
Martires
nta
a S
t
16
os S
t
Burg
ia
Riv
11
5
Pe
Metrobank
c
an
Blu
ng
da
ng
a
ay
Na
rli
Bali
Ba
nge
University
of Nueva
Caceres
Sa
ag
sa
ys
ay
To Villa
Av
Caceres Hotel
e
ate
(500m);
oS
15
t
Airport
14
(13km) 10
2
1
0.1 miles
To Panicuason (11km);
Mt Isarog National
Park (14km)
e
Av
cia
an
Naga City
afr
n
Pe
Hospital
Ar
a
Police na
St
Station
St
Av
100 m
Naga
Cathedral
sA
There are some very nice renovated rooms

here and some disastrous old rooms with
rocks for pillows bring painkillers for the
inevitable stiff neck.
Wiltan Hotel & Restaurant (%440 2525; Vinzons
Ave; s/d with fan P200/300, s/d with air-con P450/675) Has
the noisy and tacky personality of a 70s
talk-show host, but the rooms are OK.
ve
Jac
Ate
Ave; s/d with fan P200/250, s/d with air-con P500/550)
Alvinos Pizza House (%440 1085; Bagasbas Beach)

Also known as Winnies, it serves great
pizza (P185) and sizzling dishes (around
Information
NAGA
ag
The surfing is best when typhoons churn

up the Pacifics waters between August and
Philtranco (%571 2718; Martinez St) has two daily

air-con buses (P520, seven hours) and one
nightly deluxe bus (P685) between Daet and
Pasay, Manila. Ordinary buses to Manila
are easier to come by, but truly sweltering.
There are frequent bus/minivan services
to Naga (P75/127, 1/2 hours) from the
Central Terminal northeast of town. Transfer in Naga for Legaspi and points south.
Ojed
Activities
Din
The major banks are well represented here

and all have ATMs.
Joshnet (per hr P20; h8am-midnight) is one of
several Internet cafs in town. Its at the
south end of Vinzons Ave.
lounge popular with surfers.
Elia
Information
Skwatohm Caf (Bagasbas Beach) Cool little chill-out
eral
%054 / pop 80,632
In a country where it has become almost

clichd to describe cities as choked with
tricycles, Daet brings new meaning to the
term. Indeed, during business hours its
almost impossible to cross the main thoroughfare, Vinzons Ave, on foot. Luckily one
can escape the madness 4km north of town
at Bagasbas Beach, a laid-back surfers hangout with maddeningly inconsistent waves.
Theres little viable accommodation in Bagasbas. Stay in Daet proper.

Canimog Hotel & Restaurant (%440 2029; San
Vicente Rd; d from P990; pa) Located out by
Central Terminal, its quieter, nicer and
newer than anything in the centre. Rooms
have wooden floors, big TVs, local artwork
and toilets worthy of the name.
Dolor Hotel (% 721 2167; Vinzons Ave; d with
fan/air-con P400/650) This is decent value and
clean by Daets less-than-lofty standards.
Rooms are spacious but resourceful mosquitoes have a way of slipping through the
miniscule cracks in the window frames. TV
costs P50 extra.
Mines Hotel & Restaurant (%571 2734; Vinzons
and ambience.
zA
DAET
Sleeping
Naga, in Camarines Sur, is one of Luzons

hipper commercial centres. Its wide streets
meander instead of sticking to a conventional grid pattern, while the use of podyak
push tricycles reigns in the tricycle
madness just a little. University students
abound, and many of them have sports like
mountain biking and rock climbing on their
rsums. An abundance of Western-style
coffee shops and snazzy, upmarket eateries
only enhance the cosmopolitan feel.
In September, thousands of devotees
make a pilgrimage to Naga for the Peafrancia Festival, in celebration of the Virgin
of Peafrancia, Bicols patron saint. The
towns population swells at this time and
you need to book accommodation at least
two months in advance.
17
To Naga Central
Bus Terminal (100m)
TRANSPORT
Pangan
iban A
Air-con Van
Terminal..................
17 C3
ve
Philippines Airlines Office...........18 B2
SOUTHE AST LUZON
SOUTHE AST LUZON
Bicol technically includes Luzons southeastern peninsula and the islands of Catanduanes and Masbate, but this section of
the chapter covers peninsular Bicol only.
Catanduanes (p196) is covered in a separate
section later in this chapter, and Masbate
(p344) is included in the Visayas chapter.
%054 / pop 141,300
Chinese restaurant with huge helpings.
Gen
BICOL
NAGA
Q Grill Hub (J Lukban St) Outdoor eatery with good food
nde
The best way to get to Southeast Luzon is to

take a comfortable 29-seat deluxe bus from
Manila. These travel at night and cost only
about P200 more than regular air-con buses.
Most of the major bus companies servicing
Bicol offer a deluxe service to the major cities. You can also fly to Naga, Legaspi, Catanduanes and Marinduque for about $US55
one way. See those sections for specifics.
The islands of Marinduque and Catanduanes are served by frequent ferries. You
can also take ferries from Matnog, at the
southern tip of Bicol, to Samar, and from
Pilar, near Donsol, to Masbate. See those
sections for details.
B I C O L N a g a 187
P90), and catches refreshing sea breezes.

There are a couple of cramped bunk beds
where surfers crash (P150).
Kusina ni Angel (Bagasbas Beach) Run by the
charming Angel de la Cruz, it has a creative
menu and specialises in seafood dishes like
grilled dorado (mahi mahi; P170) and exotic
shakes (P20 to P28). Its behind Alvinos.
Also recommended:
Golden Palace (Zabala St; meal around P100; a)
rna
October. When the conditions are right,

Bagasbas Beach, with its sandy bottom,
is the perfect place to learn. The friendly
family-run 1.4.3.4.4 Snack Hauz (%440 1946) is
surfer HQ and has a couple of boards for
rent (P150 per hour). Instruction is available from any of the local surfing whiz kids
(P150 per hour).
Snack Hauz proprietor Anton is a member of the Bagasbas Wave Riders Club and
can tell you all you need to know. Bigger
waves are found near Mercedes to the south
and San Jos to the north. Call Anton for
surf reports.
Be careful swimming here when surfs
up; as many as 40 people get stuck in the
rip each year.
From Mercedes, 6.5km east of town (P30
by tricycle), you can hire a boat to explore
the islands in San Miguel Bay, including the
beautiful white-sand beaches of nearby
Apuao Grande Island, site of a once-grand but
now crumbling resort.
J He
beaten track, and even then its extremely

unlikely. Still, if youre worried about it,
stick to the cities and the main trekking
routes, like Mt Mayon and Mt Isarog.
Lun
186 B I C O L D a e t
188 B I C O L N a g a
Main Post Office (City Hall Complex)

Naga City Visitors Center (%473 4432; www.naga.gov
Also recommended:
Moraville Hotel (%473 1247; fax 811 1685; Dinaga
.ph/tourism; City Hall Complex; h8am-noon & 1-5pm

Mon-Fri) Reasonably informative and has a decent map.
St; s with fan/air-con P360/510, d with air-con P610; p)

Rooms are a bit worn but it may be the worlds friendliest
hotel.
Regent Hotel (%472 2626; fax 811 1748; Elias Angeles
St; s/d P1200/1500; pia) Business-class hotel has
the goods, but service is sometimes surly.
Activities
The range of outdoor pursuits available
around Naga is one of Luzons best-kept
secrets. Activities centre mainly around Mt
Isarog and the Caramoan Peninsula. Theres
also some good diving in the Ragay Gulf to
the west.
For gear rental, guides and tips on hiking
and climbing, Kadlagan Outdoor Shop and Climbing Wall (%472 3305; kadlagan@yahoo.com; 17 Dimasalang St; hstore 9am-8pm, climbing wall 3-8pm) is the
place to go. The company guides trips up Mt
Isarog and occasionally takes large groups to
the Caramoan Peninsula. Shop owner Jojo
Villareal knows all the local rocks and routes
and is usually here in the evenings.
Steady Eddie (%811 7333; AMS Press Compound,
Peafrancia Ave; h8am-7pm) is the only dive
centre in the area. You can call a few days
ahead and try to join one of its weekend
dive expeditions to sites such as Pasacao, on
the Ragay Gulf, and Catanduanes.
Sleeping
Crown Hotel (%474 8305; www.crownhotelnaga.com;
Burgos St; d from P1000; pa) A tasteful renovation makes this old stand-by the best bang
for the buck in Naga, with solid rooms,
attractive common areas, a swanky restaurant overlooking Plaza Martinez and a
popular jazz bar. Request a room off the
busy street.
Grand Imperial Plaza Hotel (% 473 6534;
giphotel@yahoo.com; Burgos St; d P790; nai) It
doesnt quite live up to its grandiose name,
but it does have big carpeted rooms, sanitary
bathrooms and a courtyard restaurant with
surprises like paella (P90) on the menu. Request a room around the quiet courtyard.
Sampaguita Tourist Inn (%473 8896; Panganiban
Dr; d with fan & shared bathroom P125, d with air-con,
hot water & private bathroom P550) This is the best
budget option in town. The cookie-cutter

rooms wont excite you but they wont give
you any major problems either.
Villa Caceres (%811 6083; villacacereshotel@yahoo
.com; Magsaysay Ave; s/d P950/1150; pnais)
Its a 10-minute ride out of the town centre,

but the rooms have a warm feel and nice
lighting, and its chock full of services.
Eating & Drinking

MAGSAYSAY AVE
The corner of Magsaysay Ave and Dayangdang St is full of trendy bars, clubs, restaurants and coffee shops.
Coco Leaf (Magsaysay Ave; a) This excellent
and affordable Asian fusion restaurant offers everything from tuna sashimi (P85) to
pad thai (P95).
Bombay Blues (Magsaysay Ave; meals around P100;
a) This cosy mom-and-pop restaurant, run
by the affable Pinky, has good Indian food.
Beanbag Coffee (Magsaysay Ave; a) Does a
great imitation of Seattles Best, only much
cheaper and with free wi-fi access.
Club M8 (Magsaysay Ave; h7pm-4am; a) This
disco sees dance-happy revellers carousing
till the wee hours on weekends. Caters to a
younger crowd. Dress to impress.
CENTRE
Oyster Villa (cnr Elias Angeles St & Prieto St; a) This

big, bright, spotless Chinese eatery has a voluminous menu. A stir-fried crab dish with
straw mushrooms, good for two, is P145.
Geewan (Burgos St; a) Of the several cheap
fast-food joints near Plaza Rizal, this has
the best local specialities, such as Bicol exprs (see the boxed text, p190).
Lolos Music Bar (3rd fl Traders Square Bldg, Burgos
St; h4pm-1am; a) This is a cool bar with
plenty of room to breathe, and live music
from 9pm. Caters to a more mature crowd
than Club M8, but, like its rival, frowns on
shorts and sandals.
San Francisco food court (Peafrancia Ave) To
keep it real with the local fare, head to this
food court next to San Francicso Church
and fill up for less than P40.

AIR
The airport is in Pili, 14km south of Naga.

Philippine Airlines (%02-855 8888 in Manila, %473
2277 in Naga; Peafrancia Ave) has four morning
flights per week between Manila and Naga
(P2600, 45 minutes). Your hotel may provide airport shuttle service; if not, walk to
the main road and snag a jeepney to Naga
centre (P10).
BUS
All bus, jeepney and air-con van services

use Nagas central bus terminal. Several
lines make trips to Manilas Cubao station (air-con from P450, eight hours). Isarog (%473 8804), Peafrancia (%811 1197), RSL
(%473 7518), ECSI (%811 2512) and Philtranco
(%811 2541) have deluxe 29-seaters (from
P650). Isarogs nearly fully reclining seats
are the most comfortable. Most departures
are around 8.30pm.
There are frequent air-con bus/minivan
services to Daet (P75/127, 1/2 hours)
and Legaspi (P100/P140, 2/two hours).
Avoid the ordinary bus to Legaspi, which
can take up to six hours. Transfer in Legaspi
for Tabaco and Sorsogon. Air-con minivans
also serve Tabaco (P145) and Sabang (P75).
Jeepneys head to Panicuason (P20, 30 minutes, 18km) and Pili (P10).
TRAIN
The Philippine National Railways (PNR; %02-254

9772 in Manila) train is a comfortable, cheap
way to travel to Manila, but it is slow as
molasses. It leaves Manilas Pasay station
at 6am, and departs Naga station (cnr PNR Rd &
Balintawak St) at 9.05am (ordinary/air-con/recliner P223/265/302, 12 hours).
AROUND NAGA
Mt Isarog National Park

Dominating Camarines Surs landscape is
Mt Isarog (1966m), Bicols second-highest
volcano, now dormant. From Panicuason
(pan-ee-kwa-sone) a steep, half-hour walk
along a dirt track leads to the entrance of Mt
Isarog National Park (foreigner/citizen P56/10; h8am5pm). From the entrance, a path to the left
leads to Nabuntulan Falls, about 1km away. To
the right, a short walk leads down some very
steep stone steps to Malabsay Falls, where you
can swim with a view of Mt Isarog.
If you plan to hike any further, you must
get a permit (three-day permit for foreigner/
citizen P550/100) from the Department of Environment & Natural Resources (DENR; %811 3728;
Panganiban Drive, Naga, near City Hall Complex).
Youll want a guide for the two-day return trek up Mt Isarog. Kadlagan Outdoor
B I C O L A r o u n d N a g a 189
Shop (opposite) in Naga has experienced

guides (around P1000 per day for up to
10 persons), or the DENR can set you up
with a cheaper, but English-challenged,
guide from Panicuason. Trails are well
maintained and there are camps with water
sources along the way.
At Panicuason, Mt Isarog Hot Springs (P50;
h7am-6pm) has five natural pools (two hot
and three cold). These offer a good way to
relax after a trek in the park. The springs
are 1.3km off the main road, just before the
road to the national park.
To travel to Mt Isagarog from Naga, take
a jeepney to Panicuason. Note that the last
jeepney back to Naga leaves Panicuason
around 5pm.
Caramoan Peninsula
This lonely wedge of land about 50km
northeast of Naga offers stunning coastal
scenery marked by isolated white-sand
beaches and jagged limestone cliffs reminiscent of northern Palawan.
Youll want to base yourself on the east
edge of the peninsula near Caramoan National
Park. Funky-looking islets like Lahuy Island
and Matukad Island dot the coastline here.
Many have beautiful white beaches, some
open to the sea, others in protected coves
with turquoise waters. The white-sand Gota
Beach lies just 4km from Caramoan town
(population 39,642).
This rarely visited area is begging to be
explored by sea kayak, if only there were
any to hire. You may be able to rent a sibidsibid (small fishing boat) at Gota Beach and
paddle from island to island. Bangka are
more readily available. A full day of islandhopping in a seven-person bangka should
cost about P1000. The guard at the entrance
to the national park (admission P5), near
Gota Beach, is a good source of information
and can help arrange boats.
The peninsula is best enjoyed outdoors
so consider camping on Gota Beach. You
can rent tents from the municipal hall tourism office (P100) or Kadlagan Outdoor
Shop (opposite).
There are a few hotels in Caramoan town,
including the new La Casa Roa (%811 5789;
lacasaroa@yahoo.com; barangay Tawog; s/d P700/1200;
a) Other options have air-con rooms in
the P600 range and rooms with fans for

around P350.
SOUTHE AST LUZON
SOUTHE AST LUZON
190 B I C O L Le g a s p i
B I C O L Le g a s p i 191
Central Legaspi City
ntial St
Cir
cum
fere
gI
la
ng
Gilbert
St
l St
Ilan
Matelco
Quez
on
oS
ria
M
St agno
li
Rizal St
ond
St
Eliz
pe
i St
Im
l St
3
Rafae
Mabin
Av
e
To Wharf
St
INFORMATION
JSK.com........................................1 A2
Metrobank...................................2 B3
Victory
Village
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Bicol Adventure & Tours............(see 4)
St
al
Ca
mi
SLEEPING
Hotel La Trinidad..........................3 B3
Legaspi Tourist Inn.......................4 A3
Xandra Hotel...............................5 A3
Riz
St
To Albay District
(3km); Naga
(93km); Manila
(467km)
EATING
WayWay Restaurant....................6 A1
Kapuntukan
Hill
Eating & Drinking

WayWay Restaurant (Map p191; Pearanda St; dishes
around P90; closed Sun) This restaurant 1km north
of Legaspi City is the best place in Southeast
Luzon to try coconut milkcooked Bicol
specialities (see opposite).
Small Talk (Map p193; cnr Doa Aurora St & National
Hwy, Albay District; na) This delightful eatery
adds Bicol touches to its Italian fare. Try the
pinangat or Bicol exprs pasta (P80).
There are several modern restaurants
clustered next to the Provincial Capitol
Building in Albay District. The best is a
Mexican eatery called Chicken.
If its booze you choose, head to the Pepperland hotel bar for live music or go shoot
pool and hang out with the masses at Mingles
SOUTHE AST LUZON
SOUTHE AST LUZON
Governor Forbes St
nda St
Most hotels can set you up with vans and

drivers, some of whom are also tour guides.
The going rate for excursions within Albay
Province is P2500, diesel included.
Ag
l St
land, with balconies with great views of Mt

Mayon. It has tennis too; rates will surely
go up.
Pepperland (Map p193; %481 8000; cnr Airport Rd
& Washington Dr; d from P2550; pai) Breakfast
is on the (Mediterranean-style) house. It
has more character than the Venezia.
Rosal
Riza
excellent free map of the city.
St
F Impe rial
St Rafael
Church
St
ldo
uina
Peara
venezia.ws; Renaissance Gardens, Washington Dr; d from

P2200; pnais) Ritzier than Pepper-
St
There are two legitimately top-end hotels

within walking distance of the airport.
Hotel Venezia (Map p193; %481 0877; www.hotel
llanes
ALBAY DISTRICT
Plaza
Rizal
5
To Pacific Mall
(300m); Dreams
Inn & Cafe (300m);
Central Bus
BPI
Terminal
Trylon
(1.3km)
Monument
s St
nto
n Sa
Maga
Legaspi is divided into Albay District and

Legaspi City. The provincial and city governments, the airport, and the fancier res-
_latrinidad@hotmail.com; Rizal St; s/d with hot shower

from P920/1020; pa) Midrange option with large,
surprisingly comfy rooms preserved intact from the 1970s.
Xandra Hotel (Map p191; %821 7598; Pearanda
St & Aguinaldo St; s with fan & shower P150, s/d with
air-con P600/800) Has a certain raw urban appeal, but no
hot water.
St
Alonzo
Legaspi Tourist Inn (Map p191; %480 6147; V&O Bldg,

Quezon Ave; s/d with fan P450/510, with air-con P700/800;
p) This modern place has clean and well-
Albay
Gulf
Ramo
LEGASPI CITY
6314; http://tourism.albay.gov.ph; Albay Astrodome Complex, Capt F Aquende Dr) is friendly and has an
Activities
St
Orientation
anda
%052 / pop 157,010
This gritty provincial capital sits right at

the foot of Mt Mayon (2462m), justifiably
dubbed the worlds most perfect volcano.
For Internet access in Legaspi City try JSK

.com (Map p191; Magallanes St; per hr P20; h8.30ammidnight). In Albay District youll find the
always-reliable Netopi@ (Map p193; GTS Bldg, Rizal
St; per hr P32; h9am-10pm).
There are plenty of ATMs around.
Metrobank (Map p191; Rizal St, Legaspi City; h9am3pm Mon-Fri) cashes travellers cheques.
The Provincial Tourism Office (Map p193; %820
Pear
LEGASPI
Information
Ave
Getting to Caramoan town is a highlight of

any visit to the peninsula. Youll get a great
look at Mt Isarog on the overland leg of the
journey, and beautiful views of the seductive coastline on the ocean leg.
From Naga, take an air-con minivan
(P75, 1 hours) or a jeepney (P60, two
hours) to Sabang. From Sabang, four boats
per day go to Guijalo (P100, two hours), the
last leaving around 1pm. You can hire your
own boat for P1200 if you negotiate well.
From Guijalo, its a 10-minute jeepney or
tricycle ride to Caramoan town.
Theres a very poor road from Sabang to
Guijalo (35km) that requires a sturdy 4WD
or mountain bike.
taurants and hotels are all in Albay District.

Legaspi City is a noisy, convoluted maze of
street stalls, markets, girlie bars and exhauststained buildings. The bus terminal, most of
the cheaper accommodation and the modern
Pacific Mall are here. Hundreds of jeepneys
per day connect the two districts (P7.50,
3.5km) along the National Highway.
Legaspi
Train
Station
Quezon
dula
To
Airport
(4km)
Sleeping
kept rooms with private bathrooms, quality

TVs and lots of mirrors. Its the best moderately priced accommodation in town.
Dreams Inn & Cafe (Map p193; %480 0885; F Imperial
St; s fan/air-con P225/450, d with air-con P550) The clean,
basic rooms at this extra-value place come
with the following options: TV, hot water,
air-con, private bathroom and window. Pick
what you want and adjust the price. Dont
plan on throwing a party in the singles.
Also recommended:
Hotel La Trinidad (Map p191; %480 7469; hotel
B
To Tabaco
(26km)
Lakan
2266; bicoladventure@digitelone.com; V&O Bldg, Quezon

Ave, Legaspi City; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri & 8am-noon Sat) is
the authority on spelunking, diving, islandhopping and hiking. A guide for a two-day
Mayon hike costs P2600 for a maximum
of three persons. If you want transportation, camping gear and porter thrown in,
the package costs P4500. For other options
see p192.
200 m
0.1 miles
0
0
Dr
There may be no more roundly vilified cuisine in all of Asia than Filipino food. Bicol, with its smorgasbord of fiery fish, pork and vegetable concoctions, is the countrys answer to that criticism.
Bicolanos hardly have the Philippines monopoly on coconuts, but for some reason they are
the only ones who cook predominantly with coconut milk. Wise choice. Anything cooked in
coconut milk is known as ginataang. Squid (pusit) cooked in coconut milk is thus ginataang pusit
(and its highly recommended). Ginataang santol (a pulpy fruit) and ginataang jackfruit are also
tasty. The other key ingredient in Bicol cuisine is sili (hot chilli pepper). There are many varieties
of sili, among them the tiny but potent labuyo, which you can order in bars mixed with tender,
almond-shaped pili nuts.
Two dishes youll definitely notice are Bicol exprs and pinangat. The former is a fiery mishmash of ground pork, sili, baby shrimps, onion, garlic and other spices cooked in coconut milk.
Pinangat is green gabi (taro) leaves wrapped around small pieces of fish, shrimp and/or pork,
and a chopped, leafy green vegetable known as natong (laing), which is also commonly served
on its own as a side dish. Lastly, theres the surprisingly palatable candingga diced pork liver
and carrots sweetened and cooked in vinegar.
The odd thing about Bicol food is that you have to work a bit to find it. Most hotels and many
restaurants stick to those all-too-familiar Filipino staples: sinigang, pansit, pinakbet, sisig, lechon
and the ubiquitous Filipino breakfast. You have to poke around to find real Bicol food. Street-stall
buffets, like the San Francisco food court in Naga, are good places to find it, though you may
have trouble getting instruction on what is what. A few restaurants known for good Bicol food are
mentioned in this chapter. Probably the best place to sample it is WayWay Restaurant in Legaspi
(opposite). The buffet there is tasty and usually has most of the basics. The English-speaking staff
can guide you through the various options. Dont be afraid to sample a few.
CENTRAL
LEGASPI CITY
Ja
St smin
THE FIRE DOWN BELOW
Theres no shortage of adventure opportunities near Legaspi. Climbing Mt Mayon

(p192), snorkelling with the whale sharks
in Donsol (p194) and diving in the manta
bowl, a new spot in Ticao Pass off Sorsogon, top the list.
Bicol Adventure and Tours (Map p193; %480
192 B I C O L A r o u n d Le g a s p i
B I C O L A r o u n d Le g a s p i 193
Around Legaspi
Smoke Haus (Map p193; National Highway btwn Albay

& Legaspi City).
The Albay Pasalubong Center (Map p193; %480
4697), right next to the Provincial Tourism Office, sells locally made bags, hats,
placemats and other products made of
abaca, one of the worlds strongest fibres.
Purchases help small-scale producers from
rural areas outside Legaspi.
Satellite Market, next to the bus station,
is another good place to buy such products.
Be sure to haggle.
tion with a terrific view of Mt Mayon. In

1814, the 1200 people who took refuge
in the church during Mt Mayons violent
eruption were buried alive.
This is no peaceful memorial; the site
is bustling with ice-cream stands, souvenir
hawkers and restaurants. Also here is the
interesting National Museum of the Philippines
(admission free; h8.30-11.30am & 1.30-4pm Tue-Sat).
To get from Legaspi to Cagsawa, take any
jeepney headed to Camalig, Guinobatan or
Ligao (P10). Ask the driver to drop you off
at the ruins, which are about 500m from
the road.
Hoyop-Hoyopan Caves
AIR
Artefacts more than 2000 years old have been

found in these easy-to-traverse caves east of
Legaspi in Cotmon. The name means blowblow, a reference to the eerie wind in the
cave. To explore the caves you must have
a guide. Frederic Atun can be found at the
caves; he speaks good English and charges
P100 for up to seven people for a 30-minute
tour of Hoyop-Hoyopan. He also runs tours
to the more challenging Calabidongan Cave (literally, Cave of the Bats), about 2.5km away.
To get here, take any jeepney heading
toward Camalig, Polangui, Guinobatan or
Ligao and get off in Camalig, 14km north
of Legaspi (P15). From Camalig, pick up
a jeepney heading south toward Cotmon
(P15, 8km).
Shopping
Philippine Airlines (PAL; %02-855 8888 in Manila,

%245 5024 at Legaspi Airport) flies daily to and
from Manila (P3350, 55 minutes).
Most buses to Manila depart around 6.30pm
(air-con/deluxe from P600/900, 10 hours),
although there are a few day trips. Cagsawa
(%820 6598) has the nicest, most comfortable
deluxe service, with Isarog (%481 4744) a close
second. Peafrancia (%820 0518) and Raymond
(%820 2693) are among the other options.
There are frequent minivans during daylight hours to and from Naga (P140, two
hours), Sorsogon (P60, 1 hours), Tabaco
(P25, 30 minutes) and Donsol (P60, one
hour). Regular buses are cheaper but take
30% longer.
TRAIN
The inappropriately named Bicol Express

(% 02-254 9772) from Manila terminates
in Legaspi (air-con P375, 15 hours, daily
from Manila at 6am and from Legaspi at
6.30am).
AROUND LEGASPI
Daraga Church
Set on a hill overlooking Daraga is the interesting baroque-style Daraga Church, constructed completely from volcanic rocks.
From Legaspi take any Daraga-bound jeepney from the National Highway (P7.50).
Cagsawa Ruins
About 8km northwest of Legaspi, the remains (basically the belfry) of the sunken
Cagsawa Church are a popular tourist attrac-
Mt Mayon
One of the Philippines most photographed
sights, Mt Mayon (2462m) rises dramatically
from the flat Albay terrain, and can be seen
from as far away as Naga and Catanduanes.
The volcanos name derives from the Bicol
word magayon, meaning beauty, and it
wholeheartedly deserves the moniker.
This is no sleeping beauty, however. One
of the worlds most dangerous volcanoes, it
has erupted no less than 14 times since 1900,
most recently in June 2001, when the lava
flow miraculously formed the shape of the
Virgin Mary and the volcanos once perfectly
symmetrical cone was cracked near the top.
There were also eruptions in February and
June 2000 but the last fatalities were in February 1993, when the eruptions continued
for two months. A team of American volcanologists who were doing research on its
slopes were among the 77 people killed.
INFORMATION
Netopi@.....................................1 C4
Philvolcs.....................................2 C4
Provincial Tourism Office...........3 C4
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Cagsawa Ruins..........................4
Calabidongan Caves..................5
Mt Masaraga6
Daraga Church..........................
(1337m)
Hoyop-Hoyopan Caves..............
7
Philippines..............................8
San Antonio
Bantayan
C4
B4
C4
B4
C3
Bagasan
To Catanduanes
Salvacion
Matagba
Lagonoy
Gulf
San Isidro
Iraya
Borog
Tabiguian
Malilpot
Magapo
San Francisco
Buang
Busay
Falls
Amtic
Calibayog
Tambo
Basag
Nasisi
Bacacay
Mayon
Skyline
Hotel
Baligang
San Carlos
To Tiwi (10km); Sagnay
(40km); Naga (95km)
Pawa
Estancia
San
Tabaco
Panal
Vincente
City
Lake Danao
10 km
6 miles
Bonga
Crater
Mt Mayon Volcano
(2462m)
Ligao City
San Fernando
Sta. Misericordia
San Roque
To Naga (60km);
Manila (445km)
Santo Domingo
San Isidro
Binoasocan
Buyoan
SLEEPING
Guinobatan
3 Dreams Inn & Caf....................
9 C4
Hotel Venezia..........................10 C4
Pepperland Hotel.....................11 C4
Tumpa
Bonga
Quirangay
Camalig
8
Golob
DRINKING
Mauraro
Mingles Smoke Haus...............14 C4
Licag
Bongalon
Legaspi
Airport
2
Daraga
6
SHOPPING
Albay Pasalubong Center.........(see 3)
Satellite Market......................(see 15)
De La Paz
Caguiba
Parian
TRANSPORT
Central Bus and Minivan Station
(buses to all points)..............15 C4
To Cagraray
Island (12km)
Bigaa
Baadero
Cabangan
EATING
Chicken...................................12 C4
Small Talk................................13 C4
Salvacion
Albay
Gulf
Arimbay
Pacific
Mall
Rawis
DOT Regional Office
15
11 10
3
Albay
District
See Central Legaspi City

Map (p191)
14
1 13
12
Tabon Tabon
Lamba
Cotmon
7
5
Maninila
Taplacon
Mayon emits a constant plume of smoke

and is carefully monitored by Philvolcs (%824
2383; www.phivolcs.dost.gov.ph), located near the
airport in Legaspi. The institute closes off
an area of up to 8km around the volcano
when there is a danger of eruption. In
quieter times you can climb part of the way
up the mountain. The climb is steep and
involves a lot of scrambling over volcanic
rocks. The sun can be relentless.
At the time of writing, the mountain
had been holding steady at Alert Level 2
increasing activity for about two years
(Alert Level 5 means an eruption is imminent). Philvolcs does not recommend
climbing above 1000m in Alert Level 2
conditions, although guides will take you
To Donsol (30km);
Sorsogon (46km)
to 2000m. Go much higher than that and

youll be overwhelmed by poisonous gases.
Call Philvolcs before attempting an assault on Mt Mayon. Note that guides are
mandatory.
One popular excursion is to drive to the
abandoned Mayon Skyline Hotel (810m) on
the northwestern side of Mt Mayon. The
view over the Pacific from here is spectacular on a clear day. You may be able to find
freelance guides to lead you further up this
side of the mountain for P1000 per day. The
road up to the hotel is rough and there is no
public transport, so youll have to hire a van
in Legaspi (return P2000, one hour) or Tabaco (return P1000, 30 minutes). The hotel
is undergoing gradual transformation into
SOUTHE AST LUZON
SOUTHE AST LUZON
BUS
0
0
AROUND LEGASPI
194 B I C O L Ta b a c o
an observatory, though its unclear when

the telescopes will arrive.
Its safer to climb up the southeastern
side of the mountain with a professional
tour operator, such as Bicol Adventure and
Tours (p191). The southeastern route starts
from near barangay Buyoan, 15km north
of Legaspi City. From there its a two-hour
climb to camp one and another 2 hours
to camp two, at 1800m. At the time of
this writing it was possible to ascend only
another 200 vertical metres beyond camp
two. You can start early and do the climb
in one day or make it a two-day climb with
an overnight stay at either camp. There is a
fresh-water source at camp one where you
can fill your water bottles.
The best time to climb is from February
to April. From May to August its unbearably hot; from September to January its
very wet.
TABACO
Tabaco, in the shadow of Mt Mayon, is the
departure point for boats to Catanduanes.
Tabaco Gardenia Hotel (%487 8019; Riosa St; r
P950; pa) is the citys newest hotel, located near the market, with 30 solid, clean
doubles. Choose between a quiet, windowless room and a noisy street-side room.
The service at Carolyna Hotel (%830 0169;
P1 San Roque; d from P650; pa) is basically nonexistent and theres no hot water, but at
least the rooms are OK.
Cagsawa, Amihan and Raymond Tours
run buses to and from Cubao, Manila (aircon/deluxe from P650/700, 11 hours). Frequent buses, jeepneys and minivans go to
and from Legaspi (from P25, 30 minutes).
For information on ferries to Catanduanes,
see p197.
DONSOL
%056 / pop 39,995
Until the discovery of whale sharks off the

coast here in 1998, Donsol, about 45km
southwest of Legaspi, was an obscure,
sleepy fishing village in one of Sorsogons
more remote areas. In 1998 a local diver
shot a video of the whale sharks and a newspaper carried a story about Donsols gentle
butanding. Since then Donsol has become
one of the Philippines most popular tourist locations.
Its truly an exhilarating experience

swimming along with these huge bluegrey, silver-spotted creatures. You need
to be a decent snorkeller and in relatively
good shape to keep up with the sharks. In
the peak months of February to May, the
question isnt whether you will see a shark,
but how many you will see. On a good day
youll see 15. In some years the sharks migrate here as early as November and stay
until late June. Call Salvador Achao at the
Donsol Visitors Center (%0927 233 0364; barangay
Dancalan; h 7.30am-5pm Jan-Jun, 7.30am-5pm MonFri Jul-Dec) before you visit to make sure the
sharks are around.

Only snorkelling equipment is allowed;
scuba diving is prohibited. There is a limited
supply of snorkelling equipment available
for rent (P300 per session) at the visitors
centre, so its safer to bring your own.
Before heading out to see the sharks, stop
in at the visitors centre, 1.5km north of the
Donsol River bridge, and pay your registration fee (citizen/foreigner P150/500). The
visitors centre can arrange a boat (good for
seven people), a spotter and a Butanding
Interaction Officer (BIO) if you have not
done so in advance through a tour operator
in Legaspi or Sorsogon. The boat and spotter costs P3500; the BIO costs P700. Most
boats now leave from the beach in front of
the visitors centre. Be sure to tip the crew,
especially if youve had a good day. Its not
a bad idea to call and reserve a boat in advance, especially around Easter.
Sleeping
Woodland Farm Beach Resort (%0921 969 9544;
cottage with fan/air-con P800/1800; p ) Its just
north of the visitors centre and thus makes
a convenient base for shark watching. This
is a stylish place with tidy, comfortable duplex cottages, a restaurant and a narrow
brown-sand beach.
Amor Farm Beach Resort (%0917 823 3802; d
with private/shared bathroom P700/450; p) Located
right next to the visitors centre, this is a
peaceful place, albeit not quite as well kept
as Woodland.
Santiago Lodging House (%0920 388 1218; cnr
San Jose St & Tres Marias Drive; tr with fan & shared bathroom P300) Located in town, this is basically
a home-stay with three good, clean rooms

in a beat-up wooden house. You can use
the kitchen.

There are direct air-con minivans to and
from Legaspi every hour until about 4pm
(P60, one hour). Jeepneys go via Pilar and
take at least twice as long. If you are stranded
past 4pm, make your way to Pilar via jeepney or private moped, and connect with
more frequent minivans and buses there.
For Sorsogon, see right. Philtranco has
one ordinary bus per day to and from Manila (P350, 11 hours), and a couple of
ManilaPilar air-con buses to and from the
ferry docks in Pilar (P650, 11 hours).
There are four fast-craft boats per day
between Masbate and Pilar (see p344).
SORSOGON
%056 / pop 92,512
The eponymous capital of Bicols southernmost province lies in a beautiful area

of endless beaches, natural springs and
ricefields that sprawl beneath jungle-clad
volcanoes like vast, bright-green runways.
Theres good trekking to be had on the
provinces highest volcano, Mt Bulusan.
Information
There is an Equitable PCI Bank (Rizal St) with an
ATM, and there are several Internet cafs
in town.
Activities
The energetic Cecilia Duran and her guides
at Fernandos Hotel have all the information
you need on hiking, mountain biking and
diving. They can arrange rental of camping
gear, mountain bikes, mopeds or cars, and
provide guides for climbing Mt Bulusan or
snorkelling with the whale sharks at Donsol.
Dive trips are organised in conjunction with
Bacon Beach Resort & Dive Center (p196).
Sleeping & Eating

Fernandos Hotel (%211 1357; fernandohotel@hotmail
.com; cnr N Pareja St & Rizal St; r with shared/private bathroom P695/2000; pa) The rooms here are
spacious and have walls tastefully decorated

with abaca and other indigenous fibres. The
cheaper rooms, with shared bathrooms, are
not a huge step down. Its in a peaceful spot
and has a garden restaurant.
Villa Kasanggayahan (%211 1275; Rizal St; d
P950-1400; pna ) Has modern, nicely
decorated rooms situated around a wellgroomed garden and a babbling brook on a
B I C O L S o r s o g o n 195
quiet sidestreet off Rizal. The deluxe rooms

are worth the splurge.
Mahogany Lodge (%211 1370; Rizal St; r with
fan/air-con P350/500) Most rooms at this budget
option are old and dark, but there are also
a few newer, pricier doubles (P1800) if you
want to upgrade.
Balkon Bar & Restaurant (Rizal St; entres from P75)
Has tasty Bicol specialities and some Continental offerings.

Philtranco (%211 1359) has bus services to
and from Manila (ordinary/air-con/deluxe
P400/700/1100, 14 hours), as does Pefrancia. There are regular buses/minivans
to Legaspi (P47/60, 1 hours).
For Donsol, you have to take a jeepney to
Putiao (P30, 45 minutes) and get on another
jeepney to Donsol (P30, 45 minutes).
AROUND SORSOGON
Rizal Beach
%056
This long strip of white beach near the

town of Gubat is nicer and less busy than
Bacon Beach, but its two main resorts are
cut from the same, ageing cloth. Veramaris
Resort (%311 1824; veramaris@yahoo.com; d with TV &
fan/air-con P870/1090; s) is the nicer of the two,
if only because its beachfront rooms have
private balconies. It also has a huge, airy restaurant. Next door, Rizal Beach Resort (%311
1829; d with cold water P1050, ste with hot water P1420; a)
has huge rooms but the mattresses are so old

you might sink all the way to the bed base.
To get here, take a jeepney from Sorsogon to Gubat (P30, 25km), from where its
a 4km tricycle ride to Rizal (P25).
Barcelona
Seven kilometres south of Gubat you can
climb the belfry of the Spanish-built Barcelona Church (1874) for a great view over the
ocean. The Barcelona Multipurpose Cooperative
(bmpci@yahoo.com; Poblacion Norte; h8am-5pm Mon-Sat)
sells a wide range of very reasonably priced

boxes, placemats, sunhats and other products
made of natural fibres. This is a cooperative
of 300 weavers linked to the International Federation for Alternative Trade (www.ifat.org).
Bulusan Volcano National Park

About 16km southwest of Barcelona is Bulusan
Volcano National Park (admission P8; h7am-5.30pm).
SOUTHE AST LUZON
SOUTHE AST LUZON
%052 / pop 107,166
196 C ATA N D UA N E S
C ATA N D UA N E S V i r a c 197
Catanduanes
THE AUTHORS CHOICE

Bacon Beach Resort & Dive Center
(% 0919 582 2732; baconbeach@telefonica.net;

d from P5200; pa) This newcomer, 10km
A wet and rural island with its east coast open

to the Pacific Ocean, Catanduanes is ringed
by beautiful beaches, but rises abruptly to a
mountainous, virtually impenetrable interior. This is southern Luzons first line of defence against the bagyo (typhoons) that roll
in from July to November. The heavy rains
are eagerly absorbed by lush rainforests that
have been mercifully preserved due to the
islands isolation and sparse population.
Most foreign visitors to Catanduanes are
surfers looking to ride the world-famous
break, Majestics. The best waves are during the typhoon season, especially between
August and October.
Baldoc
Pandan
Tabugoc
Cobo
Palumbanes
Islands
San
Vicente
Caramoran
Tubli
Panay
Island
Bagamanoc
Panganiban
Daftag
Maqueda
2 Channel
San Jose
pleasant coffee shop. Its large doubles have

classical touches and parquet floors. Some
have balconies.
Marem Pension House (%811 1821; 136 Rizal Ave;
CATANDUANES
Maygnaway
Codon
Asian Spirit (%02-855 3333 in Manila, %811 1056

in Virac; San Juan St) makes five weekly flights to
Virac from Manila (P3080, 1 hours). The
airport is 3.5km from town. The tricycle
trip there will cost P5.
BOAT
Regina Shipping Lines (%811 1707) has two ferries per day between Tabaco and San Andres, 17km west of Virac (ordinary/air-con
P175/225, 2 hours). The boats leave Tabaco at 5am and 7am then turn around to
make the return journey. Jeepneys meet the
ferry in San Andres and go to Virac (P15,
30 minutes).
Agban
Puraran
Baras
Tilod
Bislig
San Miguel
3
Bato
Santo
Lictin
Domingo
Agoho San
Virac 1
Andres Palauig Palta
Cabugao
6
4
To Tabaco
Bay
Buenavista
5
Magnesia
Igang
Lagonoy
del Sur
7
Gulf
Lourdes
Libho
Batalay
PHILIPPINE
SEA
To Tabaco
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

Bato Church.............................1 B3
Majestics..................................2 B3
Maribina Falls...........................3 B3
SLEEPING
Amenia Beach Resort................4
Bosdak Beach Resort................5
Kosta Alcantara........................6
Twin Rock Beach Resort..........7
home to many an aquarium, has a nice range

of options and an informal atmosphere.
AIR
Diyoryan
Tacbac
Manamrag
d with fan & shared bathroom P175, d with air-con & private bathroom P700; p) This mazelike building,
Soboc
Gigmoto
Salvacion
water & fan/air-con P250/500, d with hot water & air-con

from P750; p) Viracs latest and greatest of-
Ogbong
Sioron
Rakdell Inn (%811 0881; San Pedro St; s with cold
://catmidinn.tripod.com; San Jos St; d with shared bathroom & fan/air-con P200/500, s/d with hot shower & air-con
P700/900; p) This is a popular place with a
Viga
Summit
Hitoma
Sleeping & Eating
fering has huge, immaculate doubles, big

TVs, private balconies and a truly luxurious three-room executive suite for P2500.
Theres a spiffy roof-deck restaurant on the
4th floor.
Catanduanes Midtown Inn (%811 0527; http
Tambugnon
Cabayoan
A3
A3
A3
A3
The other option is to take the MV Eugenia, a slower ferry from Tabaco to Virac
(ordinary/air-con P175/225, four hours, two
per day). All the options are car ferries.
AROUND VIRAC
%052
The area southwest of Virac is dotted with

bushy, humplike karst formations similar to
Bohols Chocolate Hills (p270). The coastline offers up white-sand coves and great
views of Mt Mayon across the Lagonoy
Gulf. The resorts here are shuttered up for
most of the year, but you can still hang out
at them. They include Bosdak Beach Resort
near Magnesia del Sur and Kosta Alcantara
near Buenavista.
SOUTHE AST LUZON
CATANDUANES
Matnog is a one-road town where you catch

the ferry bound for Samar. Beautiful Tikling
Island, 20 minutes from Matnog by bangka,
has good snorkelling and a rare pink-sand
beach.
If you miss the last ferry from Matnog
there are a couple of ramshackle lodging
houses with fan-cooled rooms where you
can stay. A better option is to head 9km
north of Matnog to the pretty white beach
outside Santa Magdalena (P70 by tricycle),
where New Port Beach Resort (%0920 551 3561;
d with fan/air-con P650/850) has simple and clean
cottages.
Frequent ferries ply the route between
Matnog and Allen, Samar (p349).
Philtranco has four buses per day to and
from Manila (ordinary/air-con P663/937,
14 hours). Jeepneys make the run to and
from Sorsogon (P50, 1 hours).
10 km
6 miles
ve
If you want to sleep close to the park without camping, your best option is Villa Luisa
MATNOG
The capital of Catanduanes does not offer

much for travellers, but it has some creature
comforts and is a convenient base for day
trips to nearby beaches.
There are a few Internet cafs in town
and the Equitable PCI Bank (San Juan St) changes
money and has an ATM.
Local guides Eli Lafe and Bert Gianan
speak good English and can help out with
car hire and setting itineraries. You can find
them through the Marem or Midtown hotels. Rakdell Inn rents cars for about P2000
per day.
0
0
CATANDUANES
Ri
SLEEPING
To get to the park from Sorsogon, take a

jeepney to Bulusan town (P25, 1 hours)
or Irosin (P25, one hour). Its 6km from
Bulusan or 8km from Irosin to the park
entrance. Travel by tricycle (about P75).
%052 / pop 57,067
to
Just inside the park, Bulusan Lake is a popular picnic spot, and theres a walking trail
around the lake that takes about one hour.
The climb up heavily forested Mt Bulusan (1560m), which last erupted in 1983,
eventually opens up at a field from where
there are superb views of the sparkling
South China Sea and Pacific Ocean. The areas fickle weather can easily spoil the view,
however. You can hike up and back down
in eight hours if youre energetic, otherwise
plan to camp at the summit crater.
The entrance to the park is near San
Roque, about 10km west of Bulusan town.
A guide is mandatory. You can hire a guide
at Fernandos Hotel or ask the barangay
captain in San Roque for assistance with
finding a local guide. Bring gloves and
wear long sleeves to fend off leeches if it
has rained.
A successful conquest of Mt Bulusan deserves a soak in the Palogtoc Falls (admission
P10). This idyllic grotto is accessible by a
1.5km walk from a trailhead off the main
road between the park entrance and San
Roque. It features a cold-water pool beside
a shady river. Nearby, but not as good, is
the Masacrot Springs (admission P15), where the
peace is often broken by videoke.
The Mateo Hot & Cold Springs Resort, outside
Irosin at the foot of Mt Bulusan, has hot
and cold pools but they often get crowded
and noisy.
VIRAC
Ba
SOUTHE AST LUZON
north of Sorsogon, assumes the title of

nicest hotel in Bicol, with eight exquisite
rooms on a narrow but scenic beach overlooking Albay Gulf and Rapu Rapu island.
The rooms have king-sized beds with huge
bamboo posts, DVD players, love seats and
wooden floors that extend into the bathrooms. The lobby, loaded with huge day
beds and other native furniture, is no less
impressive. Youll pay for the privilege but
its worth the splurge.
Celeste (%056-211 2991; d with fan/air-con P500/800;

ps), a friendly bed-and-breakfast surrounded by gardens and rambutan trees,
2.5km north of the town of Bulusan. If
youre desperate, the Mateo Hot & Cold
Springs Resort has a couple of cheap, ramshackle huts.
198 C ATA N D UA N E S A r o u n d V i r a c
MA R I N D U Q U E B o a c 199
Virac
0
0
VIRAC
B
St
rto
be
Al
Im
Bl eld
vd a
M
St
n
cio
ep
nc
Co
Puraran
Northeast of Bato the paved road turns to
dirt and, 20km on, leads to the stunning
wide bay of Puraran, home to Majestics. This
is an idyllic spot, with coconut trees swaying in the breeze, powdery white sand and a
coral reef for snorkelling just offshore. There
are two excellent, cheap resorts where surfers and nonsurfers alike often stay for
weeks, basking in the casual ambience.
A reef break 200m offshore, Majestics is no
beginners wave. When its working, its per-
To
Tabaco
Marem Pension House...........4 D1

Rakdell Inn.............................5 C1
TRANSPORT
Asian Spirit.............................6 B2
Jeepney Terminal...................7 A2
fect. But like most breaks on the countrys Pacific coast, Majestics usually only works when
theres a typhoon lurking offshore during the
habagat (southwest monsoon). This is most
likely to occur between August and October.
The amihan (northeast monsoon) kicks up
powerful onshore breezes from October to
March, making conditions too choppy for all
but the most die-hard surfers.
The two resorts in town, run by branches
of the same family, rent short surfboards for
P100 per day. Lessons are P100 per hour.
Talk to Allan at Elenas Majestics Beach Resort for advice on alternative surf spots to
check out when Majestics isnt happening.
SLEEPING & EATING
Its advisable to book ahead from July to

October. Both resorts serve set-menu meals
for under P100.
Elenas Majestics Beach Resort (%0919 558 1460;
cottage P300) This friendly, family-run place is
mellow in the extreme. They have simple,
comfortable bamboo cottages with private
porches and great ocean views. Guests can
use the snorkelling equipment for free.
Puting Baybay Beach Resort (%0926 710 8711; r
P300) Like its neighbour it offers cute, basic
cottages, plus a couple of new rooms with
shared bathroom in the main building.
The easiest way to get here is to hire a van

(see p197); it costs P1000 for a one-way
trip from Virac to Pururan and takes one
hour. A tricycle costs half that but takes

twice as long.
Theres one daily jeepney from Virac
to Gigmoto via Puraran (P40, two hours,
32km). It leaves around 10.30am. The trip
in the other direction passes through Puraran around 7am. You can also take a regular
bus or jeepney from Virac to Baras (P30,
one hour, 26km) and hire a tricycle (P50) to
Puraran. If you are staying a while in Puraran
the resorts may pick you up at the airport.
WEST COAST
The road from Virac to Pandan is bumpy,

beautiful and at times hair-raising as it follows the rocky coastline. Its a good way to
see rural island life, with great views across
Maqueda Channel. There is no commercial
lodging in Pandan so youll have to arrange
a homestay through the barangay captain.
There are three daily buses to and from
Pandan (P100, five hours). The last bus
from Virac leaves at noon; the last bus from
Pandan leaves at 9am.
MARINDUQUE
Marinduque is a sleepy little island province that comes alive every Easter for the
quirky Moriones Festival (p201). The rest of
the year the few tourists who come must
content themselves with the beautiful scenery, which is anchored by the dormant Mt
Malindig volcano (1157m) in the south.
Marinduque is a poor coconut-andcopra-producing province, but that does
not stop its people from capturing that
happy, laid-back, island vibe. A heartshaped island bound by a scenic 120km
paved ring road, its begging to be explored
by moped, but as of this writing there were
no rentals available.
The island sparked international headlines in 1996 when the Canadian-Philippine
company Marcopper spilled 20 million tons
of toxic copper-mine tailings into the Boac
River, poisoning it and ruining the livelihoods of hundreds. Ten years on, the case
remains tied up in an international court
while locals living near the river mouth
continue to report health problems, according to an Oxfam report (www.oxfam
.org.au/oxfamnews/september_2004/island
sun.html).
BOAC
%042 / pop 48,504
An abundance of pot plants, and streets lined

with attractive, dilapidated Spanish-era wooden
houses give Marinduques capital a touch of
character. The beautiful cathedral, built in
1792 on the hill in the centre of town, and
its attached convent, are the focal points.
Information
The PNB (Philippines National Bank) and
Landbank on Gov Reyes St both change US
dollars.
Mellec Computer Centre (Gov Reyes St; per hr P30;
h8am-9pm) is a reliable choice for Internet
access.
The Provincial Tourism Office (%332 1018;
www.marinduque.gov.ph; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri) is located in the Capitol Compound, 2km west
of Boac town centre.
Activities
Gerry Jamilla and Jovin Lilles from the
Provincial Tourism Office are the guys to
talk to for information on trekking, scuba
diving and caving in the area. You can call
Jovin (%0921 201 3252) outside touristoffice hours.
You dont need a guide for the five-hour
hike up and down Mt Malindig, which
follows a clearly marked trail from Sihi, a
barangay of Buenavista. Take a tricycle to
Sihi from Buenavista (P300 return), or a
jeepney toward Malibago barangay in Torrijos (P30).
Most hotels can arrange a car with driver
for trips around the scenic southern end of
the island (about P1800 per day). A tricycle
is another option; P750 plus fuel should do
the trick.
Sleeping & Eating

Tahanan sa Isok (%332 1231; fax 311 1402; 5 Canovas
St; d with fan/air-con P400/800; pn) Located on
a quiet sidestreet just off Magsaysay St, this
is easily the best value in town, with clean,
simple rooms and a gorgeous garden restaurant. It runs a small book exchange.
Lucky 7 Pension House (%332 2777; fax 332 2003;
Gov D Reyes St; d with fan/air-con P250/750; pna)
Nothing fancy here, just clean, basic aircon rooms. The fan-cooled rooms are a
real bargain, albeit a loud one. The rooftop
restaurant has a great view and fills up with
inebriated videoke enthusiasts by night.
SOUTHE AST LUZON
lampshade-like twin rocks. However, the

paucity of guests and the swimming pool
full of sludge suggest this hotel may also be
going the way of the dinosaur.
Amenia Beach Resort (%811 2385; d with shared
bathroom P800; p) in Palauig, 12km southwest
of Virac, caters mainly to day-trippers but
has a restaurant and three big, basic cottages on stilts, with private sand lots.
Heading 4km northeast from Virac youll
come to the popular Maribina Falls (h6am6pm), which drain into a refreshing pool,
perfect for swimming. The falls are 200m
off the highway.
About 7km northeast of the falls is the
town of Bato, which has a marvellous, restored Spanish church on the Bato River.
ael St
sio
ten
t Ex
con P800/1200, cottage with fan & shared/private bathroom

P300/500), which looks out on the peculiar,
SLEEPING
Catanduanes Midtown Inn.....3 C1
F Calumpad St
Imelda Blvd
Wharf
INFORMATION
Equitable PCI Bank.................1 B2
Post Office.............................2 B2
D Manlangit St
I Arcilla
St
Cabugao
Bay
The only resort still showing a semblance

of a pulse is the sprawling Twin Rock Beach
Resort (%0921 664 0245; r with cold water & fan/air-
SOUTHE AST LUZON
To Provincial Capitol
Building (100m); Maribina
Falls (4km); Bato (11km);
Puraran (32km)
St
Cruz
Santa zon Ave)
(Que
al S
St )
uz ve
n)
Cr A
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a on
t
lva
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(Sa
Sa ue
a
l
(Q
l
ci
Ar
M
Rizal St
Riz
St
To Twin Rocks
(8km); Magnesia
del Sur (12km)
St
St
Cathedral
St
o
bl
St Town
Plaza Pa
an
n
a
Ju
S
n
Sa
Town
Hall
alde
J Ub
da
dr
ve
lA
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Ri
Market
St
tid
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n
Sa
Jo
St
Su
er
da
ur
Sa
rti
Pe
St
F
u Riv
Su
Pe
Sub
dr
San Raf
nt
Sa
Sa
Sa
na
Ele
St
Joson St
nta
River
ingo
JS
0.1 miles
C
Dom
To Airport (3.5km);
Palauig (12km);
San Andres (17km);
Pandan (100km)
100 m
200 MA R I N D U Q U E B o a c
MA R I N D U Q U E G a s a n 201
Marinduque
0
0
MARINDUQUE
A
Mo
Argao
To
Lucena
C
To
Lucena
Tayabas
Bay
SAN ANDRES
ISLANDS
Maniuayan
Island
mp
Banot
Island
Balanacan
Sayao
10 km
6 miles
ong
Mompong
Island
Polo
Island
Botilao
Bathala
Caves Ipil
SANTA CRUZ
ISLANDS
Balogo
Dolores
Buyabod
Labo
GASAN
%042 / pop 29,799
ss
Boac
Alobo
Pa
Bitik
Santa Cruz
Mogpog
There is a rather motley selection of beach

resorts that spans 17km from Boac to south
of the town proper of Gasan. The coastline along this stretch has an abundance of
pebbles and debris. The further south you
go, the better the scenery, the wider the
beaches, and the nicer the beach resorts.
Take your own snorkelling equipment.
Tagum
Laylay
Devilla
Bantay
Boi
Duyay
Sleeping & Eating
Sibuyao
Tiguion
Kay Bulik
Tumagabok
Masiga
Airport
Suha
Tambangan
Tugos
Cawit
To
Mindoro
Salomague
Island
Masalukot
Caganhao
2
3
Katala Beach Resort and Restaurant (%334 1079;
Maranlig
Mt Gasan
(745m)
Poctoy
Torrijos
Gasan
To
Mindoro
www.members.tripod.com/katala.beach.resort; r with fan/aircon P700/1000; p) This German-run establish-
White
8 Beach
Sibuyan Sea
6
Cabuyo
Pingan
Malibago
Malbog
Banuyo
Hinubuan
Melchor
Island
TRES REYES
ISLANDS
Buenavista
Yook
Lipata
Baltazar
Island
Mt Malindig
(1157m)
Tungib
Elefante
Island
Kusina sa Plaza (Mercader St; dishes P35; h5.30am8pm) This cheap buffet-style place opposite
the museum serves unique Filipino specialities, and pasta dishes like baked macaroni.

AIR
Asian Spirit (%02-855 3333 in Manila, 332 1121 in Boac;

Boac Hotel) flies between Manila and Boac on
Monday, Wednesday and Friday (P2600, 45
minutes), although this service is temporarily
suspended from time to time. The airport is
12km south of Boac, on the way to Gasan.
BOAT
Blue Magic Ferries (%042-710 4168) runs two

speedy passenger boats per day between
INFORMATION
Provincial Tourism Office...........1 A2
Sihi
Dampulano
Marlanga
Point
SLEEPING
3E's Love Bay.............................2
Blue Sea Resort..........................3
Club Marinduque.......................4
Jovita's Paradise Resort..............5
Katala Beach Resort...................6
Marilou and Hans Peter Ulrich...7
Rendezvous Cottages.................8
Sunset Beach Resort...................9
A2
A2
A3
C3
A3
D3
C3
A3
Balanacan, 30 minutes north of Boac, and

Lucena (P230, 1 hours). For buses between
Manila and Lucena, see p129. Montenegro
Shipping Lines (%373 7084) has car ferries that
ply this route (ordinary/air-con P140/168,
2 hours, four daily trips each way).
Two morning boats go from Marinduque to Pinamalayan on Mindoro (P100,
2 hours). One leaves from Cawit and the
other leaves from Gasan proper. Both return from Mindoro around 1pm.
Getting Around
There are air-con minivans to Boac from the
ferry dock in Balanacan (P50, 25 minutes).
From Boac, jeepneys go south to Gasan
(P17, 30 minutes) and Buenavista (P35, one
ment 3km south of Gasan proper is perched

on a wall overlooking a private pier and the
Tres Reyes Islands beyond. The rooms are
in good shape and you can enjoy the sound
of waves lapping the shore as you watch the
sunset from your private balcony or the restaurant, which has German sausages.
Sunset Beach Resort (% 342 1004; sun_set
garden@vasia.com; cottage with fan/air-con P530/730; p)
Two kilometres north of Gasan proper, this

slightly dishevelled giant occupies sprawling grounds and includes a couple of huge
cottages on the beach. Theres a very good
restaurant and a dilapidated tennis court

that might serve up an occasional true
bounce.
Club Marinduque (%02-834 1431 in Manila; www
.clubmarinduque.com; d P1080-1800; pnas) A
comfy bed, extra towels and lots of little
shampoos are among the treats that await
you at the fanciest resort in Marinduque,
6km south of Gasan proper. From the beach
you can see both the Tres Reyes Islands and
Mt Malindig.
3Es Love Bay (% 929 8857; d/q P1200/1500;
pa) Its playful name belies the fact that
its hardly a honeymoon palace, but its the
closest passable resort in the immediate
vicinity of Boac (its only 7km south). It
features a pastel-coloured block of large,
clean rooms set around a well-manicured
garden and outdoor dining area.
Blue Sea Resort (%332 1334; d with fan/air-con
P400/600; p) The duplex cottages at this resort, located 1km south of 3Es, are slightly
tatty, but the spacious balconies and the low
price make up for it.
BUENAVISTA
This town 15km south of Gasan has great
views of the Tres Reyes Islands, which have the
wonderful names of Melchor, Gaspar and
Baltazar. You can hire a boat from a fisherman anywhere along the beach around
here. It costs P600 to go to the closest
island, Melchor, and P1500 to do a halfday of island hopping. Gaspar Island is a
marine reserve and you can snorkel off the
northern beach, although El Nio has taken
its toll on the coral.
MORIONES MADNESS Monique Choy

During this fabulous Easter festival combining folk mysticism with Catholic pageantry, the streets
of Marinduques towns are overrun with moriones (Roman soldiers).
The Moriones Festival began in 1807 when Padre Dionsio Santiago, a Mogpog parish priest,
organised a play based on the story of Longinus, one of the Roman centurions assigned to
execute Christ. A drop of Christs blood miraculously restored sight in Longinus blind right eye
during the crucifixion. Longinus instantly proclaimed his faith, whereupon he was chased around
town, captured and summarily beheaded.
Today the play has evolved into a colourful re-enactment of those events, drawn out over
the seven days of Holy Week. Each municipality in Marinduque holds its own festival, in which
hundreds of moriones don centurion masks and costumes and arm themselves with wooden
swords, spears and shields. The masks take months to prepare and are kept secret from even
close friends and family so that the moriones true identity is never known.
Throughout the week moriones take to the streets and run amok, engaging in sword fights,
dances and sneaky pranks on bystanders. You have been warned!
SOUTHE AST LUZON
SOUTHE AST LUZON
Gaspar
Island
hour) via the Capitol Compound. Frequent

jeepneys also head northeast to Mogpog
(P9, 10 minutes), Balanacan (P17, 45 minutes), Santa Cruz (P35, one hour) and Torrijos (P70, two hours).
All transport leaves from around the central terminal area near the intersection of
Nepomuceno and Magsaysay Sts.
202 MA R I N D U Q U E S a n t a C r u z
Buenavista is where the beautiful coastal

drive around Mt Malindig begins. Youll
need to hire a private car or tricycle to make
the trip (see p199).
A morning jeepney occasionally makes
the pleasant drive over the mountains to
Poctoy (P45, one hour). A more sensible
plan to get to and from Poctoy is to hire a
tricycle (P500, one hour). There are regular
jeepneys from Buenavista to Boac (P40) via
Gasan (P18).
SANTA CRUZ

203
in a couple of hours. There are thousands of

bats and swifts, and several enormous rock
pythons. Cool off afterwards in the natural
pool behind the caretakers house.
A guided tour costs P150. Take a torch
(flashlight) and charter a tricycle for the
bumpy 10km trip from Santa Cruz. A halfday charter costs P500.
There are regular jeepneys between Santa
Cruz and Boac (P35, one hour). Jeepneys
head south to Poctoy, a barangay of Torrijos (P35, one hour).
POCTOY
The whitest and longest beach in Marinduque is White Beach in Poctoy, where there are
also views of Mt Malindigs conical snout.
Quiet Jovitas Paradise Resort (r with bathroom
& fan/air-con P700/1200; a), just to the north of
White Beach, is a peaceful spot with tidy
rooms and a restaurant. Marilou and Hans
Peter Ulrich have a homestay on a private
beach just north of White Beach. Rendezvous
Cottages (s/d with fan P200/300), on White Beach
itself, has a few rickety cottages.
SOUTHE AST LUZON
There was simply no recovery from the devastating effects of the Marcopper mining
disaster for Santa Cruz. Much of the towns
workforce was instantly laid off; by now
many of them have moved on to greener
pastures. Today Santa Cruz is rapidly assuming the aura of a ghost town.
On the outskirts of Santa Cruz, beyond
barangay Ipil, the privately owned Bathala
Caves (admission P40; hsunrise-sunset) are terrific.
If youre prepared to clamber a bit, you can
explore two or three of the eight main caves

202
203
Mindoro
A rugged island cut in two by an almost impassable mountain range, Mindoro is part
tropical paradise, part provincial backwater. The physical barrier of the High Rolling Mountains has led to the formation of two provinces on the island: Mindoro Oriental (east),
and Mindoro Occidental (west).
Most of Mindoros tourist industry is found on the north coast of Mindoro Oriental,
in the resort towns around Puerto Galera. Here youll find white-sand beaches, secluded
coves and tropical hideaways in a stunning harbour. There is accommodation to suit
everyone, from beach shacks to world-class resorts, and some of the Philippines best
diving around Sabang.
If you should tire of resort living, you only have to venture southeast of Puerto, or virtually anywhere in Mindoro Occidental, where its possible to go for days weeks without
seeing another foreigner. Its hard going, but if you can deal with the bad roads, the indifferent food, the dust and the grime, you will be rewarded with some unforgettable island
hopping, hiking and mountain climbing not to mention diving in pristine Apo Reef.
Despite its proximity to the main island of Luzon, Mindoro is one of the least developed
places in the Philippines, which is evident from the state of its roads. Apart from the
CalapanRoxas highway, all roads are dirt and many are impassable in the wet season.
HIGHLIGHTS
Getting in a boat and exploring the thousands of little coves and beaches of Puerto
Galera (p205)
Coco Beach
Diving by day, partying by night at Sabang

(p210), the grandaddy of dive resorts
Treating yourself to a massage while the kids
have a scuba lesson at Coco Beach Resort
(p214)
Sabang
Puerto
Galera
Mt Halcon
North
Pandan
Island
Mt Iglit-Baco
National Park
Getting back to nature on pristine North

Pandan Island (p221), gateway to the
marine reserve of Apo Reef
Volunteering for a head count of the critically

endangered tamaraw (native buffalo) at Mt
Iglit-Baco National Park (p222)
Being the first person you know to island-hop the dive frontier of Bulalacao (p220)
Bulalacao
MINDORO
Negotiating the hair-raising Knife Edge ridge

walk when you climb Mt Halcon (p217)
204 M I N D O R O A n n o y a n c e s
M I N D O R O O R I E N TA L Pu e r t o G a l e r a 205
Mindoro
0
0
MINDORO
50 km
30 miles
LUZON
Batangas
Sombrero
Island
Golo Island
Luzon
Maricaban
Island
Passag
Verde Is
lan
Mt Calavite
(1521m)
Palauan
d P
Verde Island
Coco Beach
as
sa
ge
Balatero
Sabang
White Beach
Talipanan
Puerto
Dulangan
Wawa
Aninuan Galera
Abra de Ilog
San Teodoro
Calapan
Mt
Talipanan
Mt Malasimbo
(800m)
(860m)
Maslud
Baco
HIG
MARINDUQUE
Naujan
H
Mt Halcon
(2505m)
Mamburao
IN
LL
Riv
e
RO
Fatima
Lake
Naujan
Victoria
angtu
big
Santa Cruz
UNT
Rive
er
Riv
Mt Baco
(2488m)
Rive
r
Bongabong
in t a o Riv
e
MT IGLIT-BACO
r
NATIONAL
PARK
Dongon
Point
Ap
Mansalay
Mi
oro
nd
Magaran
ga
san
ug
ait
Str
MINDORO
ORIENTAL
To
Odiongan
& Looc
Magsaysay
San Jos
Bulalacao
Str
s
bla
Ambulong
Island
ROMBLON
Ta
Nanga
Islands
PALAWAN
Roxas
Dangay
St Rafael
Cave
ss
Pa
Calintaan
(San Miguel)
Lu
st
Ea
San Isidro
iv e
Apo
Island
ong
p
ong
Maestro
de Campo
Island
Bansud
Bong
ab
o
ng
South
Pandan
Island
Libauo
Lake
Sablayan
Pinamalayan
AIN
Amnay
North
Pandan
Island
Socorro
Ma
gasw
MO
Makati
Pola Bay
Pola
MINDORO
OCCIDENTAL
Apo Reef
National Park
To Caticlan
Ilin
Island
Semirara
Island
Busuanga
Island
AKLAN
ANTIQUE
SEMIRARA ISLANDS
Annoyances
Mindoro is prone to frequent brownouts

(otherwise known as blackouts): bring a
torch (and batteries).
The other annoyance here is a dodgy
telephone service, which means drop-outs,
congestion and frequently changed phone
numbers.
AIR
Caluya
Island
Mindoros only commercial airport is near

San Jos, in little-travelled Mindoro Occidental. Tourists who fly here are almost invariably bound for North Pandan Island. Asian
Spirit (%491 4151, 02-855 3333 in Manila) flies once
daily to/from Manila (P1600, 45 minutes).
The usual route to Mindoro is from Batangas, in southern Luzon, to Puerto Galera.
A convenient way to get from Manila
to Puerto Galera (via Batangas) is by the
combined air-con bus and boat services offered by competitors Si-Kat (%0916 576 0405,
02-521 3344 in Manila; Citystate Tower Hotel) and Island
Cruiser (%523 8841, 0917 339 3373, 02-522 1515 in
Manila; Lotus Garden Hotel). Both have booking
desks in Manila and at Muelle pier in the
township of Puerto Galera.
Both services depart from A Mabini St in
Ermita, Manila at 8am: the Si-Kat bus from
the Citystate Tower Hotel and the Island
Cruiser bus from the Lotus Garden Hotel.
They connect with pumpboats at Batangas at
around 10.45am and arrive at Muelle pier at
noon. Return trips depart from Muelle pier
at 8am and arrive in Manila around 1pm.
Si-Kat costs P500/1000 one way/return, and
Island Cruiser P500/975.
For a little more trouble and less money,
you can catch a bus independently from
Manila to Batangas pier (see p124), then
catch a pumpboat to Puerto Galera proper,
Sabang or White Beach.
Pumpboats leave Batangas regularly during the day until around 4pm and you will
find offices for all the main shipping lines at
the pier. The lines are Super Diamond (%0917
350 8121), with four to five daily services to
Puerto Galera (P140, 1 hours); Datinguinoo
(%0917 361 0772), with six daily services to
Sabang (P100, 1 hours); and Brian Shipping
(%0917 273 5070) and Golden Falcon (%0918 518
2683), each with four to eight daily services
to White Beach (P120, 1 hours).
There are also two car ferries, the Starlight
Odyssey (%043-723 9965) and the Montenegro
Maria Kristina (%043-723 8294), that sail from
Batangas to Balatero pier (P130, two hours,
three to four daily), about 3km west of
Puerto Galera.
For details of boats from Batangas to Calapan, Abra de Ilog and San Jos, see the
Getting There & Away sections under each
of these destinations in this chapter.
Be careful when you get off the bus at the
Batangas pier, as some travellers have been
scammed by touts wholl claim that the last

boat to Mindoro has just left, hoping that
youll charter one of their small and rickety
outriggers (for an outrageous P2500). Even
if its late in the day, check with the ticket offices in the terminal building before resorting to a special trip, as there are often late
departures of passenger boats. Alternatively,
you can take one of the frequent services to
Calapan, which run later, and travel overland to Puerto Galera the next day.
Theres a P10 terminal fee for all passengers leaving Batangas; pay at a booth in
the terminal.
Panay
From Roxas there are regular, round-theclock car ferries to Caticlan (P220, four
hours), the entry point for Boracay; see
p219 for details.
Romblon
A large pumpboat (P160, three hours) and

a car ferry (P175, three hours) run one to
two times daily from Roxas to Odiongan;
see p219 for details.
MINDORO ORIENTAL
Of the two provinces on the island, Mindoro Oriental is by far the wealthier and
more populous. Calapan is its administrative capital, but of most interest to visitors
is the group of resort towns from Sabang to
Talipanan, collectively referred to as Puerto
Galera.
Southeast of Puerto its mostly drab towns
and black sand. Word has it, though, that
resort owners have been buying up land in
remote Bulalacao, on the southern tip of the
island, which may just have the makings of
a beach-and-diving resort.
PUERTO GALERA
%043 / pop 21,925
The town of Puerto Galera (pwair-toe galair-ah) proper is centred on Muelle pier, a
humble jetty flanked by a line of restobars
and a couple of hotels. Business is not what
it used to be since brash newcomers Sabang
and White Beach got their own boat services, but even the most idle hotelier can
take consolation from what remains one of
the finest harbour views in the Philippines.
MINDORO
MINDORO
Unless youre chartering a plane or flying

into San Jos, you will be coming to Mindoro by boat.
BATANGAS
ait
te
Calavi
QUEZON
BOAT
Puerto Galera
Information
EMERGENCY
Police station (%281 4043; Municipal Bldg,

H Axalan St)
INTERNET ACCESS
Ruckes Internet Cafe (access road to Muelle pier; per

hr P100) Fast broadband connection.
INTERNET RESOURCES
www.mypuertogalera.com
www.puertogaleramap.com The best of the Puerto
websites, with maps, resort listings, events, transport
prices and schedules.
www.travelpuertogalera.com
MAPS
Maps are available from the tourist office

on Muelle pier for P100.
MEDICAL SERVICES
Dr Hubert Dolor (%287 3049) Will make house calls.

Puerto Galera Hospital (%0920 920 6957) About
200m past the Petron service station, on the road to
Calapan. Serious cases referred to Calapan or Batangas.
MONEY
The closest ATMs are in Calapan.

Candava Mini-mart (P Concepcion St) Changes major
currencies at competitive rates.
POST
Post office (E Brucal St) Next to the Hotel California.

TELEPHONE
John & Jaynes (access road to Muelle pier) Has international phones.
Tourist office (%287 3051; Muelle pier) Sells a tourist

map and has a few pamphlets. Outside, theres a board
with pumpboat fares.
Sights & Activities

There is a variety of trips and treks around
the Puerto Galera area, some of which require guides (see p211).
At Tamaraw Falls (adult/child P10/5; h7am-5pm
Mon-Fri, 7am-4pm Sat & Sun) cool mountain waters
plummet 30m into a natural pool beside
the road, run under a stone bridge into two
constructed swimming pools, then flow out
again into a jungle gorge.
The Tamaraw Falls are popular on the
weekend, especially on Sunday when admission is free, but during the week you can
just about have them to yourself. Bring a
packed lunch and enjoy the views; thatched
shelters, perched on the edge of the pools,
are available for picnicking. There are toilets, and a kiosk at the entrance selling
snacks, soft drinks and beer.
The falls are 14km from Puerto Galera
on the rough, mountainous road to Calapan only the first 7km of which is paved.
To get there, catch a Calapan-bound jeepney from near the Petron service station
(P25, 40 minutes). Most tricycle drivers will
do the trip only on a full-day charter basis,
for which youll pay at least P600.
About 3km out of town on the road to
Tamaraw Falls, an unsignposted track winds
2km up to Python Cave. This cavern is said to
be home to a 2m-long python. Jeepney drivers arent likely to know the turn-off so keep
an eye peeled; the ride should cost around
P15. A tricycle from town will cost around
P400 return, or you could add a couple of
hundred and do it on the way to the falls.
Badladz Adventures (%287 3184, 0919 577 2823;
www.badladz.com) puts the cojones into Puerto
Galera with scuba trips (P1000 including
equipment), snorkelling trips (P400 including equipment), treks, motorbike rentals
(P800 per day) and paintball (P1200/300
participants/nonparticipants) on secluded
Boquete Beach. Paintball trips include food
and drinks, use of snorkel and fins and a
free T-shirt. There are discounts on most
activities for guests of the resort.
Puerto Galera Yacht Club (%442 0136, 0919 369
9721) can arrange sailing tuition and connect
you with yachts for private charter. It holds
0
0
PUERTO GALERA
16
To Balatero Pier (3km);

White Beach (8km);
Talipanan Beach (11km)
18
14
Muelle Bay
Muelle Pier
6
5
19
21
17
8
Immaculate
Conception
Church
11
National Rd
INFORMATION
Allied Bank..........................................1 B1
Island Cruiser Ticket Office.................2 A1
John & Jayne's.................................(see 5)
Police Station......................................3 C1
Post Office.........................................4 C3
Rucke's Internet Caf..........................5 B1
Si-Kat Ticket Office.............................6 B1
Tourist Office......................................7 B1
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Badladz Adventures............................8 B1
Excavation Museum............................9 B1
SLEEPING
Badladz............................................(see 8)
Bahay-Pilipino Pension House...........10 B3
Coco Point........................................11 B1
Melxa's Greenhills Nipa Hut.............12 C2
To Sabang (6km)
200 m
0.1 miles
EATING
Badladz............................................(see 8)
Bahay-Pilipino Restaurant...............(see 10)
Candava Mini-mart..........................13 B3
Pier Pub Pizza...................................14 A1
Produce Market...............................15 C4
Puerto Galera Yacht Club.................16 A1
TRANSPORT
Boats to Batangas & Other Beaches..17 B1
Boats to Puerto Galera Yacht Club....18 A1
Jeepneys to Aninuan & Talipanan.....19 B1
Jeepneys to Calapan.........................20 B4
Jeepneys to Sabang..........................21 D1
Petron Service Station....................(see 20)
4
To Puerto Galera Hospital (200m);
Python Cave (2km); Dulangan (7km);
Tamaraw Falls (13km); Calapan (48km)
20
Encenada
Beach
H A
xalan
St
3
Municipal
Building
12
Balete
Beach
Varadero Bay
Puerto Galera
Central School
R Garcia St
E Brucal St
Souvenir
Shops
13
biannual regattas from 30 October to 1 November, and on the Easter weekend.

The Excavation Museum (P Concepcion St; admission by donation; h8-11.30am & 1.30-5pm Mon-Sat) is
a humble, single-room museum with displays of ancient Chinese porcelain, Thai
burial jars and Filipino pottery. Most pieces
date back 500 to 1000 years; many were
recovered from shipwrecks. The museum
is inside the grounds of the Immaculate Conception Church.
Sleeping
The harbour front is where most people will
want to base themselves.
Badladz (%287 3184, 0919 577 2823; www.badladz
.com; d with fan/air-con P500/800) With an unbeata-
L Axalan
10
t
Sr S
15
Hondura
Beach
ble position by the pier, activities galore and

one of Puertos better eateries (see p208),
this is Puertos best option. Rooms are plain
but well kept, and all have cable TV. Some
air-con rooms have views; fan rooms are
closeted behind the main building.
Coco Point (%442 0109; d without/with view P600/
800) If you want a pier-side location, and can
live without Badladz cable TV and air-con,
these pleasant, rattan-lined rooms will appeal. Breezy room No 7 looks straight out
over the water.
Melxas Greenhills Nipa Hut (%0919 430 6739; E
Cobarrubias Sr St; apt with balcony & view P700, q without

view P400) On a hill in town overlooking Balete
Beach, there is no nipa to be found here. A

beachside annexe contains four rudimentary
MINDORO
MINDORO
Allied Bank (National Rd) Changes US dollars.
TOURIST INFORMATION
s Sr St
Puerto Galera is Spanish for Port of

the Galleons. Its deep natural harbour is
sheltered on all sides, and was a favoured
anchorage of ocean-going vessels centuries
before the Spanish arrived in 1572. Yachties
from all over the world are still drawn to
Puerto, where, uncommonly for the Philippines, talk is more about what you can do
above the water than beneath it.
Visitors be warned that Puerto is also a
haven for foreign, alcoholic retirees, who
are frequently indistinguishable from the
yachties. With no nightlife on offer beyond
sinking a few beers and watching a wallmounted TV, this place is often fast asleep
by 9pm.
M I N D O R O O R I E N TA L Pu e r t o G a l e r a 207
E Cobarru
bia
P Concepcion St
206 M I N D O R O O R I E N TA L Pu e r t o G a l e r a
208 M I N D O R O O R I E N TA L N o r t h C o a s t R e s o r t s
M I N D O R O O R I E N TA L N o r t h C o a s t R e s o r t s 209
Puerto Galera Beaches
ground-floor quads, and one very basic, 1ststorey apartment. The apartment has killer
views and is cooled by sea breezes. There are
discounts for longer stays.
Bahay-Pilipino Pension House (%442 0266; P
Concepcion St; s/d P250/350) If saving money is
your priority, Bahay-Pilipino has plain
rooms with fans and a shared bathroom,
as well as an average restaurant. A shared
balcony overlooks dusty P Concepcion St.
Fishermens Cove Italian Restaurant & Resort
(Map p209; %0917 533 2985; cottages with fan, hot shower,
full board per person P3300) About 1km west of
Puerto Galera, Fishermens Cove comes with

a secluded beach and pretty nipa huts. The
main attraction, though, is three fine Italian
meals a day, including handmade pasta.
The little restobars along the pier offer relaxed dining with great views. Weve selected a number of options.
Badladz (%287 3184, 0919 577 2823; www.badladz
.com; meals P120-200) North Americanowned
Badladz does some of the tastiest Mexican
in Mindoro.
Pier Pub Pizza (pizzas P270-360) PPP goes for a
trattoria feel, with painted wooden beams
and checked tablecloths. It has thick, fruity
pancakes (P90) and surprisingly good pizza.
Puerto Galera Yacht Club (%442 0136, 0919
369 9721; seafood & steaks P250-400) Hidden in the
trees to the west of the pier, this place offers
something a little different. A free shuttle boat service (8am to 9pm Saturday to
Thursday, 8am till late Friday) from the
front of Pier Pub Pizza ships you there and
back. The food is average, but if youre in
town on a Friday night and in the mood
for a drink, get on down to the uproarious,
end-of-week barbecue/booze-up.
Bahay-Pilipino Restaurant (%442 0266; P Concepcion St; meals P150-250) The house specialities are Swiss and German sausages. Other
dishes are nothing to write home about.
Candava Mini-mart (P Concepcion St) Well stocked
with groceries, including imported food.
Produce market (h7am-noon Mon-Sat) This
can be found 100m up the side street southeast of Bahay-Pilipino Pension House.
BOAT
There are many services between Puerto

Galera, and Batangas on Luzon. See p205.
Pumpboats can be hired for trips to/from
Sabang (P250), Small La Laguna (P220),
Big La Laguna (P200), White Beach (P500),
Talipanan (P600) and a host of other destinations.
If you want to head to Abra de Ilog
(Mindoro Occidental) from Puerto Galera,
theres no road. Depending on which beach
you depart from, a chartered pumpboat to
Abras pier at Wawa will cost you P1500 to
P1800 (1 to two hours). A cheaper, less
direct option is to go to Batangas and catch
a passenger boat to Wawa (see p220).
NORTH COAST RESORTS

The resort towns around Puerto Galera each
have their own particular characteristics.
Sabang is the biggest, the brashest, the smelliest and the seediest. You wouldnt swim off
Sabangs beach. Small La Lagunas beach is
much less suspect, as are the majority of its
inhabitants from Small La Laguna, a stroll
to Sabang feels like youre slumming it. Big
La Laguna is misleadingly named in tourist
numbers and facilities it is dwarfed by Small
La Laguna. It has the cleanest beach of the
three resort towns, but not a lot else besides.
Lovers of quiet would do well to consider the secluded resorts on the road from
Puerto to Sabang.
Budget travellers and a great many Filipinos from Luzon gather at White Beach,
while those looking for something more
peaceful and remote head further west for
Aninuan and Talipanan.
JEEPNEY & TRICYCLE
Puerto Galera to Sabang
Jeepneys leave when full for Sabang from

the northeastern end of town (P15). Tricy-
About 1km from Puerto Galera on the road

to Sabang, there is a choice bunch of tran-
0
0
PUERTO GALERA BEACHES

B
SLEEPING
Aninuan Beach Resort........................3 A3
Bamboo House Beach Resort............(see 7)
Coco Beach Resort.............................4 C2
Coral Cove Resort & Dive Center.......5 D2
Fishermen's Cove Italian Restaurant &
Resort............................................6 C3
Franklyn Beach Resort....................(see 10)
GM's Resort.......................................7 A3
Kalaw Place........................................8 C2
New Encenada Beach Resort..............9 C3
EATING
Luka's..............................................(see 7)
Margarita Pizza & Pasta...................(see 3)
White
Beach
Aninuan
Beach
Talipanan
3
Beach
Aninuan
Sinandigan Lodge............................(see 5)
Tamaraw Beach Resort & Restaurant..(see 3)
Tanawin Bay Resort......................... 10 C3
Talipanan
Point
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

Python Cave......................................1 C3
Talipanan Falls...................................2 A3
San Isidro Minolo

Bay
Minolo
3 km
2 miles
Big La
Small La
Coco
Laguna
Laguna
Beach
Beach
Beach
Batangas
4
Medio Channel
Lighthouse
nila
Sabang
Island
Ch
Beach
Daluruan
ann
el
Escarceo
Halige
Sabang
Point
Beach Boquete
Boquete
5
Island
Beach
Coral Cove
Fishermens
Cove
Port Galera
Balateros
Cove
8
Balatero
Markoe
Muelle
Pier
Cove
Bay
Balatero
9
6
10
Puerto Balete
See Puerto Galera Map (p207) Galera
Beach
Hondura Encenada
Cockpit
Beach
Beach
Long
Beach
Ma
MINDORO
ORIENTAL
Varadero
Bay
Tabinay
Beach
Dulangan
Beach
Ponderosa Golf
& Country Club
quil and secluded resorts, all with wonderful views. Most offer low-season discounts
of up to 25%. The fare from Puerto Galera
is around P10/50 by jeepney/tricycle.
New Encenada Beach Resort (%524 0861; www
.encenada.com; d with fan/air-con incl breakfast from
P1600/1900) Set on a private white-sand beach,
Encenadas features include convivial hosts,

a pool table, a bar, a dining deck that overlooks the beach and a dive centre. The
downside is boxy rooms decorated in garish nautical themes but then who wants
to hang out in the hotel room?
Kalaw Place (%0917 532 2617; www.kalawplace
.com.ph; fax 442 0209; d with fan & hot shower P1600, annexe
apt with fan, hot shower & kitchenette P2500) This su-
premely tasteful native-style villa is situated

on what is probably the most glorious lookout in Puerto Galera. As well as the main
house there are a couple of apartment-style
annexes. A wonderful place to relax and devour that novel. Book well in advance.
Tanawin Bay Resort (%0916 221 9647; www.tan
awinbayresort.com; d with fan from 1600, with air-con &
private balcony from P2100; s) Straddling a ridge
high over Balete Beach, the Tanawin is the
To Tamaraw Falls (5km);

Calapan (40km)
Dulangan
most international of the resorts north of

Puerto. The stylish stone-and-thatch design
includes such architectural delights as the
Snail House and the Circle House not a
right angle in sight.
Franklyn Beach Resort (% 287 3182; www
.franklynresort.com; d with fan & bathroom from P1000,
serviced apt with kitchenette per month P15,000; si)
Franklyn suffers a little in comparison with

the other resorts, but it still has comfortable, nipa-style rooms that command great
views, and you can negotiate good discounts on longer stays.
Southeast of Sabang, the two secluded
resorts of Coral Cove and Sinandigan look
out to Verde Island. (There is also a private
manor here, which is one of the most grandiose tropical properties weve seen.)
Coral Cove Resort & Dive Center (%287 3220,
0920 229 1815; www.coral-cove.com; d with hot shower
from US$21; a) Further along the road, and
southeast of Sabang, isolated Coral Cove

Resort has neat, comfortable rooms and a
small private breach. Dive trips are a speciality, and staff will pick you up for free from
Sabang or Puerto Galera.
MINDORO
MINDORO
Eating
cles cost around P150. The road is unpaved

and frequently impassable in wet weather.
Jeepneys en route to Aninuan and Talipanan beaches leave from just near the pier
and cost P15 (20 minutes). Tricycle drivers
will ask P150 for a special trip to Talipanan,
or P100 to White Beach. Jeepneys to Calapan cost P50 (two hours) and leave from
outside the Petron service station at the
southern end of P Concepcion St.
A jeepney/tricycle to Balatero pier costs
P5/20.
Sinandigan Lodge (%0919 607 0345; d with fan/aircon P950/1250) Located behind the Coral Cove
Laundry
Resort, this place lacks views and atmosphere. On the upside, rooms are clean and
well kept, and air-con rooms have cable TV.
Guests tend to dive with Coral Cove Dive
Center.
up from Relax Thai Restaurant.
Laundromat (per kilo P45; h8am-8pm) A few doors

Medical Services
Metro Palitan Medical Clinic (%287 3156, 0917 563

0011; behind Seashore Lodge) On call 24 hours. Offers first
aid, medical clearances for diving, treatment of STDs.
Sabang
Sabangs beach front is jammed with hotels,
restaurants and dive centres. Behind these
is a fully fledged town, which is the reason
its so much rowdier (and more polluted)
here than at Small and Big La Laguna. Still,
Sabang retains one or two peaceful patches
of paradise, particularly at the eastern end
of the beach.
Money
There are many moneychangers in Sabang,

but no ATMs.
Filipino Travel Center (%287 3108) Will make cash
advances on credit cards (7.5% commission) and change
travellers cheques. Can also book flights and tours.
ACTIVITIES
Diving
Diving is king in Sabang. Ever since Ferdinand Marcos declared the reefs around
Sabang a marine reserve in 1973, word
has spread about the great diving here. Favoured sites include the Hole in the Wall, Verde
Island and the four wrecks in Sabang Bay.
Diving is possible year-round, though seas
can get rough from June to September.
INFORMATION
Internet Access
CJ Trading (per hr P120, international calls per min
P50; h8am-10pm Mon-Sat, 1-10pm Sun) Fast satellite
connection.
McRoms Bar & Sizzling House (h6am-2am) Free
Internet access with a meal (an edible cheeseburger is
P90), otherwise P1 per minute.
0
0
SABANG
A
INFORMATION
CJ Trading..........................................1
Filipino Travel Center..........................2
Laundromat........................................3
McRom's Bar & Sizzling House...........4
Metro Palitan Medical Clinic..............5
A3
C3
B3
C3
D3
200 m
0.1 miles
SLEEPING
Atlantis Beach Resort.........................8
Big Apple Dive Resort.........................9
Capt'n Gregg's Divers Lodge............10
Club Mabuhay Sabang.....................11
Garden of Eden Resort.....................12
Sabang Inn Dive Resort....................13
Steps & Garden Resort.....................14
Tina's............................................... 15
Tropicana Castle...............................16
Villa Sabang..................................... 17
VIP Dive Resort................................ 18
D
A3
A3
B3
C3
C3
D2
A3
D2
B3
D2
D3
Hemingway's...................................21 A2
Lucky's Saloon.................................(see 2)
Relax Thai Restaurant.......................22 B3
Ristorante da Franco........................(see 8)
Swiss Bakery & Deli..........................23 B3
EATING
Club Mabuhay Queen......................19 C3
Eddie's Place....................................20 C3
TRANSPORT
Boats to Batangas, Puerto Galera and
Other Beaches..............................26 C3
27 C3
Jeepneys, Tricycles to Puerto
Galera......................................... 27 C3
21
15
24
17
To Small La Laguna
Beach (500m); Big
La Laguna Beach (1km)
13
26
MINDORO
25
18
10
20
23
22
14
To Coral Cove Resort &

Dive Centre (1.5km);
Sinandigan Lodge (1.5km);
Puerto Galera (6km)
Sabang
19 12
16
27
11
The usual price for a single dive with

all equipment included is around US$20 to
US$25; its cheaper if you have your own
equipment or book a number of dives. Most
of the dive centres in Sabang offer PADIapproved courses typically, an open-water
course will set you back US$300 to US$350.
A range of courses for more experienced
divers is also available.
If youre not into diving, its still worth
hiring a snorkel set for the day (around
P200) to check out the coral in the area.
Long Beach used to be the favoured haunt
of snorkellers, but this reef suffered from
the effects of coral bleaching in 1988. However, there are plenty of other sites with
healthy coral to choose from ask for advice at one of the dive centres.
The following three operators, in Sabang
and Small La Laguna, offer a superior mix
of five-star PADI dive centres and great accommodation packages.
Asia Divers (Map p213; %287 3205, 0917 814 5107;
www.asiadivers.com; Small La Laguna) Associated with El
Galleon Beach Resort.
Diving Philippines (%287 3134; www.diving-philip
pines.com; Sabang) Associated with Atlantis Beach Resort.
Sabang Inn Dive Resort (%287 3193; www.sabang
-inn.com; Sabang)
There are plenty of other dive centres in

Sabang and surrounding beaches, all offering dive/accommodation packages. They
include:
Action Divers (%287 3320; www.actiondivers.com;
Sabang)
Captn Greggs (%287 3070; www.captngreggs.com;

Sabang)
La Laguna Beach Club (Map p213; %287 3181;

www.llbc.com.ph; Big La Laguna)
New Encenada Beach Resort (Map p209; %524

0861; www.encenada.com; Encenada Beach)
Octopus Divers (%0917 562 0214; www.octopus
divers.org; Sabang)
Rudys Dive Center (Map p213; %0919 391 6399;
www.rudysdivecenter.com; Small La Laguna)
South Sea Divers (%287 3052; www.southseadivers
.com; Sabang)
Tropicana Divers (%287 3075; Sabang)
Trekking
From Sergios rooms behind his sister Tinas

guesthouse, Sergios Tours (%0915 991 4789) offers day trips including food and transport
to places such as Tamaraw Falls (P1000),
some local Mangyan villages (P1000) and a

nearby river for kayaking (P1800 to P2000).
Were not sure what hes alluding to, but
Sergios card promises Only the right and
true information, which is a big relief.
Tarzan Trek Tours (%287 3314) offers the same
tours at the same prices as Sergio.
SLEEPING
Theres no shortage of accommodation in

Sabang, but the best places go fast. Book
early if you wish to avoid the one thing every
diver fears most: a cramped, airless dive.
Rates drop dramatically in the low season
(May to September): expect discounts of up
to 50%. In the peak seasons of Easter, Christmas and New Year, prices can go skyward.
Sabang Inn Dive Resort (% 287 3198; www
.sabang-inn.com; d with fan/air-con from US$19/26; s)
Away from the crowds, Sabang Inn has spacious rooms, great views and friendly staff.
Theres a five-star PADI dive centre here
offering good package deals. Rates stay the
same year-round.
Villa Sabang (%0917 562 0214; www.villa-sabang
.com; d with fan P1000, apt with kitchenette & cable TV
P1900; as) The Villa has family-friendly
apartments and huge, plain, powder-blue

rooms. At its heart is a shady courtyard with
views across a large pool to the sea. It also
has a restaurant, pool tables and bar. Octopus Divers is based here.
Captn Greggs Divers Lodge (%287 3070-1, 0917
540 4570; www.captngreggs.com; d with hot shower, cable
TV & fan/air-con P800/1200) Right on the beach,
this is a Sabang institution. The rooms,

which look out over the water, are great
value and rates stay the same most of the
year. It also has a well-regarded dive centre
and a popular restaurant (see p212).
Atlantis Resort Hotel (%287 3066-69, 0917 562
0294; www.atlantishotel.com; d with minibar, cable TV
& hot shower from US$55; as) The grand old
dame of Sabang, Spanish mission-style

Atlantis has the towns priciest restaurant
(Ristorante da Franco), an idyllic terraced
garden with a pool and a state-of-the-art
five-star PADI dive centre. Its worth paying extra for your room, as the cheaper ones
are quite pokey.
Tropicana Castle (%287 3075; paultropicana@yahoo
.com; d with minibar, hot shower & cable TV from P1500;
as) This place has a bizarre, EuroDis-
ney thing going on it looks like a giant

jumping castle. Rooms have four-poster
MINDORO
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

Action Divers.................................(see 18)
Capt'n Gregg's...............................(see 10)
Diving Philippines.............................(see 8)
Octopus Divers..............................(see 17)
Sergio's Tours................................(see 15)
South Sea Divers................................6 A3
Tarzan Trek Tours..............................7 C3
Tropicana Divers............................(see 16)
DRINKING
Anaconda Floating
Bar.............................................24 B2
Marti's Bar........................................25 B3
Big La Laguna & Small La Laguna
beds, faux-antique furniture and marble

bathrooms. Its worth forking out a little
more for the suites. A truly incongruous,
crazy-fun kind of place.
Big Apple Dive Resort (%287 3134; www.dive
-bigapple.com; cottage with cable TV, bathroom & fan/aircon P950/1750; s) One of the main players
in Sabang, Big Apple starts at the beach

and stretches a long way back. The place
includes a five-star PADI dive centre, a restaurant and a popular bar.
Garden of Eden Resort (%287 3096; cdiver@vasia
.com; d with bathroom & fan/air-con P1500/1900; s)
Comprises a deep block with uniform rows

of comfy cottages. The grounds surrounding the pool and bar are apparently styled
like the Garden of Eden hence the name.
VIP Dive Resort (%0917 795 9062; d with bathroom
& fan from P400) A good budget choice, VIP has
rooms behind Action Divers. Rates stay the
same year-round, and dive and accommodation packages are available.
Tinas (%287 3139; d with fan/air-con from P800/1200)
A relaxed and friendly guesthouse at the
quiet eastern end of Sabang Beach. It has
no-frills cottages, some with good views.
Steps & Garden Resort (%287 3063, 0919 861
4363; stepsgardenresort@yahoo.com; d with bathroom &
fan/air-con P850/1250) If dive resorts are not your
bag, Steps is a great choice. Cute cottages

with thatched roofs and stone floors are set
among beautiful, sloping gardens. To get
here, take the narrow, well-signposted path
off the western end of the main path.
Club Mabuhay Sabang (%287 3097; www.club
mabuhay.com; d with air-con, TV & hot shower from US$36;
s) This Korean-owned, white stucco com-
EATING
Hemingways (meals P300-350; h7am-11pm) No

one comes to Sabang for the food, but if
all the restaurants were as good as Hemingways that might change. It occupies a
quiet and lovely spot at the western end of
the beach and has a mouth-watering selec-
DRINKING
Sabang certainly does not lack for bars,

though theres not much to distinguish between them. Diver-oriented drinking holes
dominate the scene, with a few exotic dancer
venues passing themselves off as discos.
Anaconda Floating Bar (h10am-6pm), moored
50m out from Captn Greggs Divers Lodge,
is the place to go if you really want to drink
like a fish. Take plenty of protection against
the sun you can almost smell the foreign

flesh roasting. A free shuttle boat will take
you there and back.
Martis Bar (covered lane) is a chilled-out little
lounge thats good for conversation. Happy
hour is from 4pm to 7pm.
Our favourite watering hole, The Point
(Map p213; h10am-midnight), is technically in
Small La Laguna (see p214).
200 m
0.1 miles
B
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Asia Divers...............................(see 3)
Rudy's Dive Center..................(see 7)
SLEEPING
Club Mabuhay Resort................1 A3
Deep Blue Sea Inn......................2 A3
El Galleon Beach Resort..............3 A3
Home Stays................................4 A3
La Laguna Beach Club................5 A3
Miller's Corner...........................6 A2
Nick & Sonia's Cottages.............7 A3
Portofino.................................(see 2)
Red Sun.....................................8 A3
Pumpboats pull up on the beach just east of

the main road. For services from Batangas
(Luzon), see p205.
To Puerto Galera, a jeepney/tricycle will
cost P15/P150. A pumpboat costs P230;
during peak wet season (July to August)
this is the only way to reach Sabang, as the
road becomes impassable.
Small La Laguna
BIG LA LAGUNA & 00

SMALL LA LAGUNA
An easy walk over the rocks from Sabang,

Small La Lagunas beach is nicer and the
atmosphere a lot more relaxed. For the better
accommodation, book well in advance.
El Galleon Beach Resort (%0917 814 5107; www
Verde
Is
Passa land
ge
EATING
Full Moon Restaurant...............(see 7)
To Coco Beach
(200m)
DRINKING
The Point.................................(see 3)
TRANSPORT
Pumpboat Fares Board...............9 A3
Big La Laguna
Beach
9
Small La Laguna
Beach
1 4 3
To Batangas;
Puerto Galera;
Other Beaches
See Sabang Map (p210)
.elgalleon.com; r with hot shower & cable TV from US$31,

r with views US$55; as) Our favourite resort
in Small La Laguna, El Galleon has charming, native-style rooms set in a meandering terraced garden. Nine (more expensive)
rooms have views. The fine alfresco restaurant (meals from P200) vies with Club
Mabuhays as the best on the beach. If you
have the appetite, treat yourself to a hardcore Australian breakfast (P250). The house
dive centre is five-star PADI Asia Divers.
Club Mabuhay Resort (%287 3098, 0920 224
Divers, this great-value place has immaculate rooms and friendly management. Fan
room No 3, on the 2nd floor, has sea views.
Deep Blue Sea Inn (%287 3209, 0920 505 7182;
stacked all the way up the steep hill, ensuring great views. The restaurant, which looks
over the beach, has good cheap meals (from
P130) and brewed coffee (P25). Internet is
P1.50 per minute.
Red Sun (%287 3241, 0920 235 5259; whitehouse@
redsun.ph; r with cable TV from US$30; as) How it
ever got a building permit is a mystery, but
with the entire western point to itself this
great, white, Spanish missionstyle pancake
stack is now an indelible part of the landscape. Once youre inside youll enjoy the
finest views on the beach. The serene white
adobe interior is all light and curves.
Down the lane beside Camrob Inn is a
delightfully un-resorty surprise a charming little village with trees, market gardens
and numerous homestays. Rates are typically
P500 a night for a double room, less for
longer stays: just walk around and inquire.
Some places have air-con and cable TV.
If youre after something midrange and
cant get into the other resorts, Portofino
dbsi@catsi.net.ph; d with cold shower & fan P1000, d with

air-con, hot water & cable TV P1500; i) Careworn
(% 287 3227; www.portofino.com.ph; d from US$45;

as) has a small pool and depressingly
but clean rooms with shared balconies are
dark stucco and stained-wood rooms.
6851; www.clubmabuhay.com; r with hot shower & cable TV

from US$36; as) The buildings are Spanish-
mission-meets-motel, but Club Mabuhay

is still a terrific option. Most rooms have
views across the pool to the sea and there
is a relaxed alfresco restaurant (meals from
P200) out the front with great food.
Nick & Sonias Cottages (%0917 373 8156, 0920 629
4147; poseidon_boat@yahoo.com; rooms with hot shower,
kitchen & fan/air-con P800/1200) Behind Action
MINDORO
MINDORO
pound just off the main drag has motelstyle accommodation. Consider it only if
the other resorts are booked up. Rates stay
the same year-round.
On the stretch of shoreline between Garden of Eden Resort and the eastern point
of Sabang beach, you will find no end of
concrete pillbox guesthouses (d with fan/air-con
from P600/1000), some with balconies looking
out to sea. All accept walk-in guests.
tion of Spanish and Caribbean dishes, such

as Jamaican jerk chicken (P300) and blue
marlin creole (P330). And yes, it is a clean,
well-lighted place.
Relax Thai Restaurant (curries from P210;
h11am-10pm) Its location in the heart of
Sabangs covered lane gives Relax Thai an
exotic bazaar vibe. Authentic Thai dcor
and a whiff of incense maximise the effect.
Theres a whole page of vegetarian dishes,
and the food is a passably good imitation
of the real thing.
Swiss Bakery & Deli (sandwiches around P150;
h7am-11pm) Fresh crusty bread, imported
cheeses and deli goods, great sandwiches
and coffee. Go there for brunch.
Captn Greggs Divers Lodge (www.captngreggs
.com) Captn Greggs has a 2nd-floor open-air
restaurant right on the water. The American
breakfast (P150) is good value and theres a
nightly barbecue. Big eaters might like to
take up the Pizza Challenge: you have one
hour to eat a 50cm pizza. Finish it and its
free; wimp out and you shout the bar.
Luckys Saloon (meals from P200; h11am-2am)
A popular little upstairs bar and German
restaurant, its menus are bound in Lucky
Luke comic books.
Club Mabuhay Queen (breakfast from P120; h7ammidnight) Right on the beach where the boats
pull in, it has a great little eating area under
the shade of a talisay tree. A morning caff
latte by the sea will cost you P75.
Eddies Place (breakfast from P120, Filipino dishes
from P200; h 24hr) Eddies does the usual
thing; its best asset is its central, beachfront location.
Ristorante da Franco (breakfast P220-400, Italian
dishes from P450; h7am-11pm) At the Atlantis
Resort Hotel, this is Sabangs most exclusive restaurant. Great food is one thing, but
given that it lacks a sea view and Sabang is
a beach, we wonder how they can justify
those prices.
White Beach
The Point (Map p213; h10am-midnight) is strategically placed on the path between Small La
Laguna and Sabang. Its rocking every night
thanks to a classic playlist from Credence
to the Stones to Marley to New Wave
and four frantic bar staff. Happy hour is
from 5.30pm to 6.30pm.
Full Moon Restaurant (h 7am-10.30pm) has
cheap burgers (P130), Australian steaks
and a well-stocked bar. DVDs are screened
most nights.
A pumpboat from Puerto Galera to Small
La Laguna costs P220 (20 minutes).
Big La Laguna
Big La Laguna has a nice beach but no real
nightlife or restaurants. Guests often end up
spending a lot on pumpboats to Sabang.
La Laguna Beach Club (%287 3181; www.llbc
diveresort.com; d with hot shower & cable TV from US$50;
as) Despite being on a lovely beachfront,
plain, tired-looking rooms are oriented inwards, towards a pool.

Millers Corner (%0927 556 4860; d with fan P950,
d with air-con, cable TV & fridge P1500) A humble but
pleasant and well-kept cluster of rooms on
the eastern point of the beach, with great
views. A terrific place to go hermitic, with
discounts for longer stays.
A pumpboat between Puerto Galera and
Big La Laguna Beach is P200 (10 minutes).
To Sabang, a pumpboat costs P120.
Coco Beach
Coco Beach Resort (Map p209; %0919 540 000, 0919
Coco Beach is an idyllic, 10-hectare ecoresort, with 96 nipa huts hidden among the
palms. Prices include round-trip transport
(ManilaCoco BeachManila) and buffet breakfast. There are two pools, tennis
courts, all manner of pampering options,
and a myriad of games and activities for the
kids. It also offers inexpensive child minding. Food at the two main restaurants is
generally very good and reasonably priced.
The only way to get here is by sea
pumpboats charge an extortionate P200 to
Sabang (more at night).
White Beach
From White Beach on to Talipanan there
is a very different vibe to Sabang. There are
DIVING
There are a few dive centres at White Beach

offering equipment hire and dive courses for
the same prices charged in Sabang. The most
professional is Pacific Divers (%0920 626 3323;
http://pacificdivers.free.fr), next to Villa Natividad.
Here you can also rent snorkel sets for P200
per day and motorbikes from P700 per day.
SLEEPING
There is no end of places to stay at White

Beach. At the crowded centre, accommodation is routinely plain and viewless. The resorts at the more open eastern and western
ends of the beach are cheerier.
In the low season (May to September)
you can negotiate discounts of 50% to 75%.
However, weekends and public holidays
bring in huge crowds from Luzon, and
many places double their prices.
Summer Connection Beach Resort and St
Francis Place (%0917 990 0181, 0920 230 5098; cotTHE AUTHORS CHOICE
Coco Aroma (0919 472 8882; breakfasts P120,
veg curry P75, pasta P100-150) Coco Aroma is
a backpackers delight a humble beach
restaurant in the true, Southeast Asian
hippy trail tradition. It consists of nothing
more than a little wooden kitchen on the
sand with a few tables out front. Sometimes there is a small bonfire, too. There is
a great vegetarian selection and the food is
rich and flavoursome to suit well-travelled
tastebuds. But its the vibe that makes Coco
Aroma special. A hip playlist features latin,
jazz and of course reggae. When the sun
sets, people strolling along the beach drop
by for a drink or to dance by the light of the
fire. This is island living as it should be.
tages with fan P800, q with air-con P2500) These two
resorts are run by the same management.

Summer Connection is right on the beach
and all its rooms have balconies. The cottages of St Francis Place are set into the
hill behind Summer Connection and have
lovely views. Both places can be accessed
from the beach or from a road signposted
Summer Connection about 200m past the
jeepney stop.
Coco Aroma (%0919 472 8882; d with shared bathroom P1000, d with bathroom & fan P1500) Set right on
the sand, the delightful Coco Aroma has a
relaxed charm. Cute and rustic nipa huts are
set in a pretty garden at the quiet western
end of the beach. It is also fronted by White
Beachs best restaurant (see opposite).
Travellers Beach Delight Restaurant & Cottages
200 m
0.1 miles
B
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Pacific Divers....................................(see 7)
SLEEPING
Coco Aroma.......................................1
Delgado's Resort.................................2
Lenly's Beach Resort...........................3
Mindorinne Oriental...........................4
St Francis' Place..................................5
Summer Connection Beach Resort......6
Villa Natividad....................................7
White Beach Basilico Bar Lodging
& Restaurant..................................8
White Beach Nipa Hut.......................9
White Coral Garden Resort...............10
A3
A3
B3
TRANSPORT
Boats to Batangas, Puerto Galera
& Other Beaches...........................12 A3
Jeepneys to Puerto Galera................13 A3
To Batangas;
Puerto Galera;
Other Beaches
To Aninuan Beach (1km);

Talipanan Beach (2.5km)
12
A3
B3
B3
B3
A3
A3
B3
EATING
Travellers Beach Delight Restaurant..11 B3
Beach Route to
Aninuan Beach
(500m)
(%0921 355 7477; d with fan P1000, q with air-con P1500)
Professionally run with clean and light

rooms, this is one of the best central-beach
budget hotels. The top-floor rooms have
good views.
White Beach Nipa Hut (%0920 205 6019; d with
cable TV P1500; a) Has no nipa huts, but two
rows of solid concrete rooms with shared
verandas. The 2nd floor has sea views.
Villa Natividad (%0917 482 0505; d with fan/air-con
P800/1500) A large two-storey place with plain
rooms. Room No 9 is the pick of the bunch,
with a partial sea view and a balcony. The
fan rooms are stuffy and viewless.
White Beach Basilico Bar Lodging & Restaurant
(%0917 203 6869; cottages P1500; a) Motel-style
accommodation set back from the beach on
the road into town.
Mindorinne Oriental (%531 9980, 0917 857 8425;
d with fridge & hot shower P2500; a) This is the
most upmarket place to stay in at White
Beach. It has comfortable, motel-style
rooms and rates are the same year-round.
There were plans to build a pool when we
were there.
Lenlys Beach Resort (%0919 480 3725; q cottages
P2500; a) Lenlys has about a dozen cottages in large grounds at the posh end of
White Beach. Theyd have beach views if
they werent obscured by a plague of beachgarment vendors.
Delgados Resort (%0918 352 6001; d with fan/
air-con P1000/1500) Cheaper than Lenlys but
almost as well situated. Fan rooms are Spartan, air-con rooms are more pleasant.
White Coral Garden Resort (%0926 711 3336; d
with cable TV P1500; as) Korean-run White
0
0
WHITE BEACH
11
10
To Puerto
Galera (6km)
13
Coral has drab rooms, though they come

with all the trimmings.
EATING
Just as there are few exceptional places to

stay in at White Beach, there are hardly any
outstanding restaurants. In the evenings,
in true Filipino style, the restaurants set up
outdoor grills all along the beach, sending
up thick clouds of pungent smoke. Most
places open at about 7am and close around
midnight.
Travellers Beach Delight Restaurant (%0921
355 7477) is noted for its big, cheap breakfasts
(P70 to P100), and pizzas (from P250), including vegetarian options. Nice touches
are the ginger tea (P30) and the iced coffee
with rhum (P35).
There are frequent jeepneys from Puerto

Galera (P15, 20 minutes). A tricycle will
cost around P80. By pumpboat, official
one-way rates (posted outside Villa Natividad) include P500 to Puerto Galera (25
minutes) and P550 to Sabang (30 minutes).
MINDORO
MINDORO
547 0347; www.cocobeach.com; huts per person for 2 days

& 1 night from US$38, for 3 days & 2 nights from US$48;
s) Perfect for families, privately owned
no girlie bars, and you dont need a diving

licence just to hold a conversation.
Unfortunately theres also a noticeable
decline in the standard of food and accommodation.
Splendid, long White Beach is a very popular destination for Filipino holidaymakers:
its a sight to behold when they come out
in droves in the cool of the late afternoon
to bathe and promenade. The eastern end
of the beach where the more upmarket
resorts are is best for swimming.
216 M I N D O R O O R I E N TA L C a l a p a n
You can charter a pumpboat to Abra de

Ilog from here (P1500, one to 1 hours).
You can also travel directly from Batangas,
Luzon (see p205).
Aninuan
For whatever reason, the tourists who flock
to White Beach rarely make it as far as Aninuan, meaning its a much more peaceful
place to base yourself. It also offers a wider,
cleaner beach and better swimming.
One of the other things that gives Aninuan its appeal is the appearance of the
High Rolling Mountains, which are obscured at White Beach by the township.
From here to Talipanan things begin to feel
a little wild and exotic.
As with White Beach, big discounts are
available in the low season, while prices tend
to rise on weekends and public holidays.
SLEEPING & EATING
Accommodation is concentrated along the

end closest to White Beach.
Aninuan Beach Resort (Map p209; %0920 226
8808; aninuanbeachresort@yahoo.com; cottages with fan/
air-con P1000/1500) The best value on the beach,
this resort has pleasant nipa huts and nativestyle rooms with balconies that look out
to sea. The huts back onto a hill, and all
are shaded.
Tamaraw Beach Resort (Map p209; %0916 613
2845; tamarawbeach@yahoo.com; huts with fan from P800,
d with air-con P1500, bungalows P2500) This sprawling
Aninuan is a 15-minute walk (1.5km) from

White Beach along the main road, or a fiveminute scramble around the rocky point
(wear shoes). Jeepneys run half-hourly between Aninuan and Puerto Galera (P15), or
else you can take a tricycle (P100).
Talipanan
Flanked by Mt Talipanan to the west, the
impressive domed peak of Malasimbo to
the south, and the sea to the north, tiny
Talipanan is the furthest frontier of Mindoro Oriental and it feels like it. The high
season/low season price swings in White
Beach apply here.
There is some great trekking to be done
in the nearby mountains. Talipanan Falls
is a popular place for a swim. You can take
a tricycle (P150) to the access track, from
where it is a 45-minute walk. From your
resort, you can also organise a Mangyan
guide (around P500 per day) for treks on
Mts Malasimbo and Talipanan.
GMs Resort (Map p209; %0919 352 5930, 0916
434 9299; d with fan P1500, q with air-con & hot shower
P2500) GMs is a friendly homestay place
with cheery, antique dcor. Tidy rooms

have attached bathrooms and there is a
communal balcony. The 2nd-floor, openair eating area has wonderful ocean views;
breakfasts start at P90, Filipino dishes are
around P100.
Bamboo House Beach Resort (Map p209; %0916
373 1294; d with fan P1200) Bamboo House is another friendly place, which lives up to its
name with pleasant, light-filled rooms in a
building made of bamboo the downside
being you can hear just about everything
going on in the house. There are also concrete rooms in an annexe out the back. The
food here is great value: a steak with mushroom sauce will set you back P150.
Readers recommend Lukas (Map p209; pizzas P250, pasta from P180; h7am-11pm), at the extreme western end of the beach, for tasty
Italian. With the cliffs of the High Rolling
Mountains only metres from your table, it
certainly is atmospheric.
Jeepneys leave from White Beach for
Talipanan every hour or so (P10). Tricycles
will not do the trip for less than P100, which
is testament to the rockiness of the 2km
road. A walk along the bakingly hot sand
from Aninuan (3km) will take around an
hour. GMs Resort has a pumpboat for hire
(P300 to White Beach).
CALAPAN
%043 / pop 105,910
Calapan (kal-ah-pan), the bustling capital

of Mindoro Oriental, is a convenient feeder
port for Batangas, Luzon (see p218) and
as far as most tourists are concerned one

of the stops on the busboat route between
Manila and Boracay. It is also a good base
for hiking formidable Mt Halcon. Apart
from that, there is little here to detain you.
JP Rizal St is the busy main drag. Most
buses and jeepneys terminate in the market
just behind the intersection of JP Rizal St
and Juan Luna St (look for the Jollibee).
Information
@M Internet Cafe (del Pilar St; per hr P30; h9am-7pm)
Equitable PCI Bank (JP Rizal St) A block south of Juan
Luna St. Will change US dollars and has an ATM (transaction limit P5000).
Metrobank (JP Rizal St) As above.
Provincial Tourism Office (%286 7046; www.or
mindoro.gov.ph; Capitol Complex, JP Rizal St) Tourism
office for Mindoro Oriental. Website has calendar of events.
Tourist assistance centre (%288 1389; pier;
h9am-3.30pm) Sells a useful map of Calapan (P50).
Activities
HIKING
While theres not a lot to see in Calapan,

theres plenty of adventure on nearby Mt
Halcon and thats where Apk Outdoor Shop
(%288 3391; Quezon Blvd) comes in.
Richard, the proprietor and chief guide
for Mt Halcon, doubles as a sandal maker:
sturdy flip-flops/sandals soled with tyrerubber sell for P220/380. Word of Richards
sandals, which make good diving footwear,
has reached as far as Boracay.
Richard has been leading trips to Mt Halcon, about 30km southwest of Calapan, for
a number of years. At 2505m, Halcon is the
countrys fourth-highest mountain, but according to the mountaineers its the toughest to climb. Trails are thickly forested and
treacherous, and the weather is wet and
unpredictable. In 2004 a European mountaineer died attempting the climb, causing
the mountain to be closed for a time; it was
due to reopen in 2006.
You need to give two weeks notice for
Richard to organise an expedition. The
standard trip is two days up, two days
down, taking in the perilous Monkey Bridge
(a tangle of tree trunks spanning the Dulangan River), the breathtaking Knife Edge ridge
walk and, finally, the peak itself, which
often juts well above the clouds.
The local mountaineers have an arrangement with Mangyan tribespeople in the area,
M I N D O R O O R I E N TA L C a l a p a n 217
who are employed as porters on request. The

climb costs around P1000 per person per
day, which includes a porter, equipment and
a guide, but you have to pay extra for food
(for yourself and the porter), jeep hire (about
P1000 return per jeep) and hiking registration (P40). Gear rental is also extra (tents/
sleeping bags P200/150 per day). The maximum number of people per guide is five.
Theres also an annual climb held over
four days during Holy Week, with around
200 people taking part. The climb costs
P500 per person, which includes transport,
T-shirt, food and guide.
Richard also organises trail-bike and other
trekking tours in and around Mindoro.
Its P10 by tricycle from the pier to Apk
Outdoor Shop. Ask the driver to let you out
at the Land Transportation Office (LTO);
the shop is directly across the road.
Sleeping
Calapan Bay Hotel (%288 1309; calapanbay@yahoo
.com; Quezon Blvd; d with hot water from P750; a) Very
well located if you want to be close to the
pier, this has large, cheerful rooms, windows looking out over the bay and a gorgeous terrace where you can dine over the
water while admiring the offshore islands
(continental breakfast P80).
Riceland 2 Inn (%288 5590; MH del Pilar St; tw
with bathroom & fan/air-con from P300/525, d with fan/
air-con P300/500) This is the best of the budget
hotels. From JP Rizal St, wander down to

MH del Pilar St, which runs off it, and over
the bridge to this single-storey, grey-green
complex, which has quiet lodgings and a
shared veranda.
Hotel Mayi (%288 4437; JP Rizal St; s/d with private
bathroom & fan P400/500) On the busy main drag,
this no-frills hotel has tidy rooms, a homely
lobby and helpful staff.
Microtel Inn & Suites (%286 2624; www.microtel
philippines.com; M Roxas St; s/d with hot shower, cable TV,
Internet port & continental breakfast P1900/2300; as)
This branch of the international Microtel

chain has helpful staff, comfortable, well-kept
rooms, a large pool in lush grounds and a
very reasonably priced restaurant (Salisbury
steak P150, cocktails P60 to P120).
Anahaw Island View Resort (%288 8260/8982;
www.dalcan.com/anahaw; d with cable TV, shared hotwater bathroom & fan/air-con P500/700) On the quiet
western fringes of town, 2km from the town

centre (P15 by tricycle), this friendly resort
MINDORO
MINDORO
place has a plain, concrete hotel with air-con

rooms, a row of nipa huts stretched along the
beach and some more huts in a shady garden.
If you are travelling in a group, the family
bungalows on the beach, shaded by a lovely
big tree, are an excellent choice. The restaurant does good, cheap Filipino meals (sauted vegetables P70, breakfast from P60).
Margarita Pizza & Pasta (Map p209; h11am-2pm
& 5-9pm) Surprisingly good, given that its
basically just a porta-stove in a shack on the
sand. Try the pizzas (P200 to P300), but be
prepared to wait.
218 M I N D O R O O R I E N TA L C a l a p a n
THE MANGYAN
The Mangyan were the original settlers of Mindoro, first arriving on the island around 800 years
ago. They are a proto-Malay people, derived from the same ethnic stock as the majority Malay.
The Mangyan comprise seven some say eight linguistically similar tribes spread along the
length of the islands mountainous interior. They were actually once a coastal people; records
show they may have been trading with Chinese merchants as early as AD 1250, but successive
waves of Malay, Spanish and Moro (Muslim) immigrants pushed them into the hinterland. As
a survival strategy, the Mangyan have generally chosen to yield land rather than fight against
invaders. Even today, the greatest challenge the Mangyan face is being pushed off their lands
by encroaching farmers.
The Mangyan are estimated to number around 100,000 people, or 10% of Mindoros population.
They have preserved their traditional culture to a much greater extent than many other Philippine indigenous groups. Many tribespeople still wear traditional costumes, such as the trademark
loincloth, or ba-ag, worn by males. Animism belief in the spirits that inhabit nature remains
a potent force in Mangyan cosmology, though often now with a Christian twist.
Where possible, tribespeople continue to pursue traditional livelihoods. Most Mangyan are swidden farmers. During the dry season they burn scrub and forest to clear the ground and fertilise
the soil; they then plant a succession of crops, including tubers, maize, pulses and mountain
rice (a dry rice variety). In the wet season, if there is enough game, they will hunt pigs, monkeys,
birds and other small animals.
A number of tribes also grow crops and make handicrafts for trade with non-Mangyans. Visitors
to Puerto Galera are quite likely to come across the skilfully woven, hexagonal nito (woody vine)
baskets of the Iraya tribespeople, who live mostly in the mountains around Abra de Ilog.
The Mangyan have a history of being persecuted by newcomers to the island or being involuntarily caught up in their wars. The Spanish punished the Mangyan for their close relations
with the Moro (Muslim missionaries). With the arrival of the Americans at the beginning of the
20th century, Mangyan people were put to work on sugar estates, or forced into reservations
much like those created for Native Americans. In this century, Mangyans have been caught in
the crossfire between the Philippine Army and the NPA (New Peoples Army).
That the Mangyan are still able to hold on to their culture despite centuries of incursions
from outsiders is a testimony to their vitality and tenacity. If you are interested in finding out
more, the Mangyan Heritage Center (%288 5318; B Finnemann Compound, Calero, Calapan; admission
free; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri) has thousands of essays and photos as well as video documentaries all
available to the public.
is a good choice, with cute, nautically

themed nipa huts and views over the beach.
Management can organise island-hopping
tours and treks inland.
Parang Beach Resort (%288 6120; parang_beach@
Eating
Calapan is, frankly, an awful place to eat.
That said, a block down from JP Rizal St,
cool, clean and quiet L&V Snack Restaurant (MH
the usual carinderia (eatery). The popular

Oriental Villa Tea House (Leuterio St; meals P120-220;
h8am-late) does reasonable Filipino-Chinese
food, but be sure to specify if you dont want
meat with your vegetable dish.

BOAT
A tricycle from the town centre to the pier

(4km) should cost P20. The only destination from Calapan pier is Batangas, Luzon.
All tickets are purchased at the pier.
From the pier, its a pleasant 45-minute
journey to Batangas on the fast-craft SuperCat (%288 3179 in Calapan, 043-723 8227 in Batangas;
P200), which has frequent departures from
5am to 5.30pm daily.
Montenegro (%043-723 8294 in Batangas) and

Starlight (%043-723 9391 in Batangas) shipping
lines run much slower car ferries between
Calapan and Batangas around the clock
(P110, 2 hours).
BUS & JEEPNEY
Calapan is 48km from Puerto Galera via a

rough, winding road with spectacular views
across Verde Island Passage. Jeepneys to
Puerto Galera leave hourly from the Motoc
terminal on JP Rizal St, 1.5km south of central Calapan (P10 by tricycle). Departures
are from 6am to 5pm daily (P60, 1 hours).
Buses dont operate between Calapan and
Puerto Galera. Small buses leave for Roxas
via Pinamalayan from the market on Juan
Luna St, departing regularly from 6am until
about 1pm (P160, three hours, daily).
Large buses meet the ferries at Calapan
pier and continue on to Roxas (P160, three
hours) via Pinamalayan. They run from
around 5am to 4pm daily. Air-con minibuses
compete with the buses for passengers.
ROXAS
%043 / pop 41,265
The best thing to come out of Roxas is the

road to Calapan. Literally. This is the only
paved highway in Mindoro, which if youve
done any travel here is something youre
bound to appreciate.
Roxas is a drab town whose presence on
the tourist circuit is entirely due to its status
as a staging post on the Strong Republic Nautical Highway the interlocking road-sea route
that runs through Luzon, Mindoro, the
Visayas and Mindanao. From Roxas youre
only a few hours by boat from Caticlan, and
therefore, Boracay (for details, see right).
Should you stop here, youre sure to see
the lively market in the town centre, where the
buses terminate and the hotels are located.
Its at its best on Wednesday and Sunday
mornings, when Mangyan people and other
villagers come into town to sell their wares.
Information
Engineer Bhoy Villaluna is president of
the Roxas Tourism Council and is a good
source of information. Youll find him at
the Roxas Villa Hotel (see right).
Next to the Roxas Villa Hotel is the CATSI
telephone centre, where you can make international calls.
M I N D O R O O R I E N TA L R o x a s 219
If youre desperate, most pawn shops will

change US dollars.
Sleeping & Eating

Roxas hotels are all clustered around the
market.
Roxas Villa Hotel & Restaurant (%289 2026, 289
2518; Administration St; d with fan/air-con from P370/550)
With its reception desk hidden down the

covered drive, Roxas Villa has simple, clean
rooms. The main attraction here is the
charming and gregarious host, Bhoy Villaluna, who will tell you all there is to know
about Roxas. He might even offer to take you
to St Rafael Cave, which he formerly mined,
while a chemical engineer, for guano (bat
droppings) to use as fertiliser. Its essentially
a deep, musty hole in the side of a hill.
Lyf Hotel & Restaurant (%289 2819; Magsaysay
Ave; d with fan/air-con P750/900) Lyf is Roxas business hotel. Its modern and charmless, but
comfortable. The restaurant does the best
food in town: a Filipino breakfast is P45,
dinners go for P130 to P190.
All the buzz in Roxas these days is centred on the area around Dangay pier, which
has been booming since it was fitted out in
2005 to accommodate big car ferries bound
for Caticlan. Skirting the black-sand beach
to the east of the terminal is a long row of
restaurants, videoke bars and brothels, all
of which are lit up at night like Christmas
trees. 3 Js Floating Bar and Restaurant (h11amlate) is a lively and welcoming place built
over a fish pond; cook what you catch for
P200 to P300.
The dirt road along the beach is not lit,
and tourists visiting there after dark are
advised to go with their own transport. A
return trip by tricycle with a two-hour wait
will cost about P200 at night.

BOAT
Roxas is the main connector port for

Caticlan, Panay. It also has services to
Romblon.
Dangay pier (%289 2813) is a P10 tricycle ride
from the market. For those headed to Panay
(or Boracay) there are six daily car ferry services to Caticlan (P220, four hours).
For Romblon, a ferry departs for Odiongan at 4pm, Wednesday to Friday (P175,
three hours). A big pumpboat departs for
Odiongan at 10.30am every day except
MINDORO
MINDORO
yahoo.com; d with hot shower & cable TV from P1200; a)
The best of the few resorts on the blacksand beach 4km or 5km east of town (P20
by tricycle). On an immaculate lawn by the
sea, it has well-appointed nipa-style cottage rooms with balconies. You can charter a pumpboat here to island-hop for only
P400.
del Pilar St; meals P50-100; h8am-late) is a cut above
220 M I N D O R O O CC I D E N TA L A b r a d e I l o g
Wednesday and Sunday (P160, three hours).

There is also a service to Looc (P160, three
hours) on alternate days.
BUS & JEEPNEY
Buses and air-con vans depart every 45

minutes for Calapan (P160, three hours)
from 6am to 4pm, daily. There are two terminals: one on the corner of Morente and
Magsaysay Aves, the other near the corner
of Magsaysay Ave and Administration St.
From each terminal, one van a day leaves
at 8.30am bound for Manila (P500, eight
hours) with a little help from a ferry.
Three jeepneys a day leave for San Jos
(P250, five hours) via Bulalacao (P60, two
hours) from the corner of Morente and
Magsaysay Aves, departing 6.30am, 8.30am
and 10am. In the wettest weather (between
May and September), the rough road between Bulalacao and San Jos can become
impassable and you have to take a boat for
this leg of the journey (add another P50).
Jeepneys terminating at Bulalacao leave
daily from 5am to around 3pm (P60, two
hours).
BULALACAO
If you want to travel around the mountainous southern tip of Mindoro, you must go
via the remote fishing town of Bulalacao
(bull-ah-la-cow). The trip is usually done
by road, but from July to September, when
rains can make the dirt roads treacherous,
its often done by sea.
Though the town itself is nondescript,
it is surrounded by islands and coves with
white sand and coral, leading some to speculate that Bulalacao may be the next Puerto
Galera. At the time of writing, some resort
owners were said to be buying up land in
the area to develop, but there were as yet
no facilities.
From Bulalacao harbour, you can hire a
boat for island hopping (per day P1000). Some of
the islands around Bulalacao are said to have
good diving and snorkelling. For help with
organising island hopping and for homestay
accommodation (per person incl food, around P500),
contact the mayors office (%0920 179 8455).
Jeepneys to/from Roxas head off every
hour or so until 3pm (P60, two hours). The
jeepney stop is under a large tree about
500m from town on the Roxas road.
In the dry months, three daily jeepneys

stop in Bulalacao on their way through
to San Jos. From Bulalacao the trip costs
P200 (three hours).
In the wet months, one pumpboat leaves
Bulalacao bound for San Jos around 10am
daily (P250, three hours); another leaves
San Jos bound for Bulalacao around 11am.
The pumpboat for San Jos must moor in
Bulalacaos deeper waters beyond a breakwater. Small boats shuttle passengers back
and forth from the shore (P10 one way).
pier (P130, 2 hours) around the clock,

seven times daily.
From Mindoro Oriental, a pumpboat between White Beach and Wawa should cost
around P1500 (one to 1 hours).
Jeepneys connect with the boats to take
passengers south to Mamburao (P40, one
hour), but the trip is smoother by air-con
minivan (P70, 45 minutes). If youd rather
not wait for a van to pick up its full complement of 10 passengers you may choose to
charter it (P700).
MINDORO OCCIDENTAL
MAMBURAO
The province of Mindoro Occidental is

more isolated, less developed and much less
frequently visited than its neighbour to the
east. In most places youre more likely to
be taken for a missionary than a traveller.
The great majority of tourists here make
a beeline straight for Sablayan, the entry
point for idyllic North Pandan Island and
the diving mecca, Apo Reef. Another attraction is ruggedly beautiful Mt Iglit-Baco
National Park, a popular hiking destination and home to the critically endangered
tamaraw buffalo.
The mostly coastal road from Abra de
Ilog to San Jos is an especially rough and
dusty one.
ABRA DE ILOG
%043 / pop 22,212
The grubby port town of Abra de Ilog is the

northern gateway to Mindoros west coast.
Little more than a bundle of small buildings, Abras port of Wawa is well served by
boats from Batangas. If you arrive by boat
youll see why theres no usable road west
of Puerto Galera: a cloud-scraping wall of
jagged mountains runs right to the shore.
Most people move straight on to more
inviting Mamburao after arriving in Abra,
but its possible to stay overnight. About
1km from the pier (P10 by tricycle), L & P
Lodging House (%0918 528 2173; r with fan P200)
has very basic rooms. A couple of small
eateries by the pier should help get you
through the night.

From Batangas (Luzon), Montenegro Shipping
Lines (%723 8294) runs car ferries to Wawa
%043 / pop 30,378
Mamburao is a dusty little town with a bad

case of tricycle-itis.
The best thing to do here is to ride one of
those tricycles 4km north of town (P10/30
regular/charter) to Alii Beach Resort (%0910
850 8845; fan/air-con cottages from P700/1400; s). Pronounced ali-ee, Alii is a quiet resort on the
edge of a pretty beach cove. Concrete cottages
are nicely laid out among rows of palm trees
on a large lawn. The fan cottages are great
value. Filipino dishes are around P140.

Buses depart all morning till around midday for San Jos (P190, seven hours) via
Sablayan (P95, three hours). They leave
from the bus stand on National Rd just
north of town.
Jeepneys between Mamburao and Abra
de Ilog (P40, one hour) depart from near
the bridge on the northern edge of town in
sync with boats to/from Wawa pier. Aircon minivans (P70, 45 minutes) also connect with the boats to/from Wawa. They
leave from a small terminal near the bus
stand.
SABLAYAN
%043 / pop 63,685
A welcome sight after the long road journey

from either the north or the south, Sablayan
(sab-lai-an) sits astride the Bagong Sabang
River. It has a lively market, and boats of all
shapes and sizes are strung along its rivermouth port. For most travellers, Sablayans
appeal lies in its proximity to North Pandan
Island and Apo Reef, but the hinterland
also has its attractions. Sablayan is the best
leaping-off point for those wishing to trek
in Mt Iglit-Baco National Park.
M I N D O R O O CC I D E N TA L M a m b u r a o 221
Activities
There are a number of walks and waterfalls in
the countryside around Sablayan. Libauo Lake
is famed for its white lotuses, and is a popular spot for fishing and bird-watching. Its
situated inside Sablayan Prison Farm, which is
an attraction in its own right: the inmates
farm and fish, and make handicrafts that
are sold locally.
The municipal Eco-Tourism Office (%0910
467 4915; Municipal Plaza; h8am-5pm) and Adventure Camp (%0918 795 9720; embabia@yahoo.com)
both offer a range of equally good-value
tours around Sablayan (ranging from P1000
to P2000). They can also organise trips to,
and provide information for, Mt Iglit-Baco
National Park (p222) and Apo Reef (p222).
Sleeping
Emily Hotel (115 Gozar St; s with fan & shared bathroom
P150, d with fan & private bathroom P300) On the breakwater, next to the boats to North Pandan Island, this is a friendly place with small, basic
rooms. The restaurant does budget meals
for P60, or theres a nearby market.
Adventure Camp (%0918 795 9720; embabia@
yahoo.com; d with fan P500, r for 8 people P1000) Visible from the harbour channel, Adventure
Camp lacks the clean beaches, snorkelling
and, above all, the great food of Pandan,
but it is still an option for people looking
to explore the hinterland of Sablayan. And
its inexpensive. Cabin rooms are large and
comfortable, and short-order meals range
from P40 to P60.

For services to North Pandan Island, see
p222.
Buses and jeepneys headed north and
south run down the main drag, National
Rd, in the town centre. Buses going north
stop in Sablayan on their way to Mamburao (P100, three hours). The last service
is around 3.30pm. Buses run all day to San
Jos (P95, three hours) in the south.
NORTH PANDAN ISLAND

This postcard-perfect, privately owned resort island is a low-key tropical paradise. It
has a long, curving, white-sand beach with
your choice of sand, sea grass or coral, just
off the shore. There are a number of prime
dive spots that surround the island. Mornings and late afternoons you can snorkel
MINDORO
MINDORO
%043 / pop 36,952
MONEY
Metrobank (Sikatuna St) Has an ATM that accepts MasterCard and Cirrus cards. Changes travellers cheques.
PNB (Philippine National Bank; MH Del Pilar St) Changes

travellers cheques.
TOURIST INFORMATION
Protected Area Office (%0928 247 9488; Airport Rd)

Dante Diwa can assist with trips to the Gene Pool at Mt
Iglit-Baco National Park.
Sleeping & Eating
B2
Market
2
Rizal St Ext
na
St
Gaudiel
St
ila
rS
Le
la
ab
ini
St
t
St
sS
ute
rio
xa
oS
Ro
ett
lP
os
urg
PB
arr
de
St
Joseph's
Cathedral
ez
pe
Lo
So
St ldev
il
FB
on
St
ae
St
10
To Magsaysay
(14km)
Rizal St
Qu
11
To Caminawit Port (4km);

Boats to Batangas, Manila & Caticlan
San Jos
Quirino St
7
8
E Jacinto St
1
Sikatuna St
P Gomez St
Raja Soliman St
Magsaysay St
Bonifacio St
P Zamora St
B2
TRANSPORT
Buses to Sablayan &
Mambarao...........................9 B3
Jeepneys to Roxas..................10 B3
Jeepneys to Sablayan &
Mamburao.........................11 B2
River
Capt Cooper St
EATING
Kusina Restaurant & Videoke...8 B2
Mindoro
Strait
zJ
B2
C3
D3
P Burgos St
INFORMATION
Metrobank...............................1
Millennium One Computer
Center..................................2
PNB.........................................3
Police Station...........................4
RCPI International Telephone
Office...................................5
0.1 miles
C
To Protected Area Office (2km);
Sikatuna Beach Hotel (3km);
White House Safari
Beach Hotel (3km);
Pandururan
Airport (5km)
SLEEPING
Plaza Hotel..............................6 C2
Sikatuna Town Hotel................7 B2
100 m
Lapu-Lapu St
The best that can be said of the accommodation in San Jos proper is that its better
than the food. North of town, on the way
to the airport, a couple of beach-side hotels
raise the standard on both fronts.
Sikatuna Town Hotel (%491 1274; Sikatuna St;
tw/d P140, d with fan/air-con P300/550) This hotel is a
0
0
SAN JOS
St
Visitors from Sablayan are often obliged

to make the crossing in a flat boat (P100,
20 minutes) the tiny, flimsy, slow and
incredibly noisy river craft that wait for
customers opposite the Emily Hotel. If the
seas are rough, dont risk the flat boat: call
the resort from the breakwater to arrange
a trip on their service pumpboat; it does
Rizal Sts; h8am-5pm Mon-Sun)
MINDORO
MINDORO
RCPI International Telephone Office (cnr C Liboro &
The southernmost town in Mindoro Occidental, San Jos is notable for having an
airport. And thats about it.
You can hire a pumpboat from the pier
(P1000) to Ambulong Reef. Theres good diving here, but you must bring your own gear.
Locals head out to the beaches north of town
to relax by the water with a few drinks.
MT IGLIT-BACO NATIONAL PARK

Intrepid travellers who trek to the top of these
remote mountains may be rewarded with a
sighting of the elusive wild tamaraw (native
buffalo). The area is known for New Peoples Army (NPA) activity and while this is
unlikely to present any danger to tourists we
advise you to make your own enquiries.
Its a day-and-a-halfs climb to the top of
Mt Iglit, and a day back down. The climbing season is October to May. Inside the
park, the Tamaraw Conservation Program
has a breeding station known as the Gene
Pool, which has bunkhouse accommodation. The only tamaraws bred in captivity
live here. Note that this is not a day trip:
anyone visiting the conservation area must
plan for four or five days in the wild.
The Eco-Tourism Office and Adventure
Camp (p221) in Sablayan can arrange tours
with a weeks notice. Tours take five days,
Millennium One Computer Center (C Liboro St; per

hr P100; h8am-6.30pm)
%043 / pop 111,009
ro
lic combination of simple living and pure

tropical decadence, this laid-back, smoothly
run resort has rudimentary budget rooms
(you pay extra for a light globe) with a
shared bathroom, comfortable bungalows
and delightful deluxe cottages for one to
four people. Even in the deluxe cottages,
showers are salt water (fresh water is provided in buckets) and there are no fans. The
buffet lunch and dinner are feasts that outdo
most five-star restaurants. Breakfast is US$3
and main meals are US$7. Full board is
US$15. It costs P50 to visit the island for
the day: time your visit for lunch!
INTERNET & TELEPHONE
SAN JOS
ibo
in Manila; www.pandan.com; budget s/d US$10/12, standard

bungalows US$20, deluxe cottages from US$36) An idyl-
At 35 sq km, Apo Reef National Park (not

to be confused with the area around the
other Apo Island off the south coast of Negros) is the largest atoll-like reef in the Philippines. It is bisected by a narrow channel
running east to west that is perfect for diving. The crystal-clear waters abound with
life, including 285 species of fish and 197
species of coral. Here divers have a good
chance of seeing large marine animals such
as hammerhead sharks, turtles and manta
rays. The three islands of the reef also play
host to a variety of turtle and bird species,
including the endangered Nicobar pigeon.
North Pandan Island is the ideal place
from which to visit the reef, but trips can
be organised from as far away as Puerto
Galera, from where large yachts will make
the trip in around eight hours. Pandan Island Resort (left) and Sablayans Adventure
Camp (p221) both charge around US$150
for a three-day, two-night trip.
Information
include transport, food and a guide, and

cost from P7000 to P10,000.
If you come in April you should be able
to tag along as a volunteer on the annual
tamaraw head-count with the Protected
Area Office (%0928 247 9488; Airport Road, San Jos),
which involves a five-day camp-out. If
youre thinking of travelling independently
to the park you must contact Dante Diwa at
the Protected Area Office, who will arrange
a guide (P250 per day) and permits (no
charge). You will need your own gear and
provisions. A chartered jeepney to the park
entrance east of Calintaan will cost around
P2000 from either San Jos or Sablayan.
CL
Pandan Island Resort (%0919 305 7821, 02-526 6929
APO REEF NATIONAL PARK
M I N D O R O O CC I D E N TA L S a n J o s 223
Dego Silang St
Sleeping & Eating
three scheduled trips a day for which there

is no charge, otherwise its P100.
The resort can organise land and sea
transfers to/from Abra de Ilog and San Jos.
An air-con van (maximum seven people)
from San Jos to Sablayan will cost US$115,
from Abra US$140. A boat from North
Pandan Island to San Jos costs US$215
(maximum 15 people).
Dagohoy St
out to watch sea turtles grazing the sea grass

just metres from the beach. Nights are spent
feasting like royalty, enjoying drinks on the
sand and star-gazing.
Theres only one catch: it can get bloody
hot, and there is not enough electricity for
fans.
Mariposa Diving, which can be contacted
through Pandan Island Resort (below),
charges US$26 for fun dives with equipment. An open-water course will set you
back US$295, and snorkelling gear rents
for P150 per day.
North Pandan Island is the ideal base
from which to explore nearby Apo Island:
sailing time is about two hours. The prices
for boat trips vary with the number of passengers: a day trip to Apo Island with picnic will probably cost you around US$45; a
two-day, three-night trip will cost around
US$150. The best time for diving is October
to May.
When island life gets too slow which
it can day trips on the mainland can be
had through Adventure Camp (p221) in
Sablayan.
Tandang Sora St
222 M I N D O R O O CC I D E N TA L A p o R e e f N a t i o n a l Pa r k
224 M I N D O R O O CC I D E N TA L S a n J o s
friendly place with small, very basic rooms.

Get a room at the back or cop an earful of the
amplified warbling from the videoke over the
road. It has a free airport drop-off service.
Kusina Restaurant & Videoke (Sikatuna St; meals
P110-180; h6.30am-11pm) Opposite the Sikatuna
Town Hotel, Kusina does all the favourites:
beefsteak, chop suey or barbecued chicken
with rice. A Filipino breakfast is P60.
Plaza Hotel (%491 4661; P Zamora St; s with fan
Two airlines service Roxas and both have

a desk at San Jos airport that can issue
tickets. Asian Spirit (%491 4151, 02-855 3333 in
Manila; www.asianspirit.com) has daily flights between San Jos and Manila (45 minutes).
South-East Asian Airlines (%491 4158, 02-884 1521
in Manila; www.flyseair.com) also has daily flights
to Manila (45 minutes).
& shared/private bathroom P200/300, d with bathroom &

fan/air-con from P400/800) This is a sleek but soul-
Boats to/from San Jos dock at Caminawit

Port, 4km south of town (P15 by tricycle).
Montenegro Shipping Lines (%043-491 5502 in
Batangas) has an overnight passenger service
to Batangas, Luzon (ordinary/air-con/suite
P375/475/1250, 12 hours, nightly).
Moreta Shipping Lines (%02-245 3025 in Manila) has two overnight services per week to
Manila, departing from San Jos on Saturday and Monday evenings (ordinary/aircon/suite P450/550/1500, 15 hours), and
departing from Manila on Thursday and
Sunday evenings. It also has a weekly service to Caticlan, Panay (ordinary/air-con
P300/450, six hours), departing from San
Jos at 11am on Friday and from Caticlan
at noon on Saturday.
less place with large, tiled rooms above a

cavernous lobby.
A P20 tricycle ride north of town will
bring you to two hotels facing each other
over a shallow, brown-sand beach.
Sikatuna Beach Hotel (%491 2182; Airport Rd; d
with fan & cold water P400, d with air-con, TV & hot water
P750) This is the budget choice. In an annexe,
Sikatuna Beach Hotel has drab but spacious

rooms. The restaurant does Filipino meals
costing P80 to P150, which you can eat in
the shaded cottages overlooking the water.
It has a free airport drop-off service.
White House Safari Beach Hotel (%491 1656;
edithpark@yahoo.com; Airport Rd; d with air-con & hot
shower P2200, 4-bed ste P3300) The best food and
accommodation in San Jos, the White

House is more like a rich relatives mansion
than a hotel. It has luxurious rooms with balconies, marble bathrooms, fridges and TVs,
and a giant, two-room family suite facing the
water. A big American breakfast in a dining
room overlooking an immaculately kept garden is P190; other meals range from P120 to
P200. Book at least a week in advance.

AIR
San Joss airport is about 5km northwest of

town (P25, 20 minutes by tricycle).
MINDORO

225
BOAT
BUS & JEEPNEY
Regular buses run between San Jos and

Mamburao (P190, seven hours) via Sablayan
(P77, 3 hours) until around noon. Jeepneys
ply the same route until around 3pm. Its a
bum-numbingly long stretch to Mamburao,
best broken by a stop in Sablayan.
Three to four jeepneys per day travel to
Roxas (P250, five hours) via Bulalacao (P200,
three hours), departing between 6am and
1pm. During the wet season the road can
be impassable, and you have to take a boat
to Bulalacao (P250, three hours), and then a
jeepney for the BulalacaoRoxas leg.

224
225
T H E V I S AYA S
The Visayas
Several threshold events in the history of the nation occurred in the Visayas. Magellan landed off
the Cebu coast in 1521, marking the Philippines first contact with Europeans, and MacArthur
fulfilled his vow to return to the country during WWII, landing near Tacloban on Leyte.
This is the part of the country that fits the clichs of the sun-soaked, gin-stained Edenic
paradise. The beaches are white and palm fringed, the locals fish in the turquoise waters,
and the heat is so enervating that all exertion is called into question.
You can hopscotch the region on a virtual armada of seagoing vessels, from humble bangka
to modern ferries. You can travel from Cebu, the Philippines raucous and cosmopolitan second city, to Boracay on the northwestern tip of Panay, the raucous and cosmopolitan beach
resort. Numerous smaller, more subdued beaches can be found around the Cebu and Negros
islands and on Panglao Island off Bohol, a worthy destination itself. Lesser travelled islands
such as Siquior and Romblon offer more privacy and the chance to get into the lethargic
flow, and for those wishing to stop time altogether there are the thousands of tiny islands
unmarked on most maps, their names known only to locals.
HIGHLIGHTS
Soaking up the island rhythms of White
Beach (p325) on Boracay
Swimming alongside whale sharks in the
waters around Padre Burgos (p359) in
southern Leyte
Visiting Bohol (p261) for diving, jungles,
and tarsiers
Sibuyan Island
White Beach
Samar
Malapascua
Island
Checking out the magnoliaceous vistas

from the mountain-biking trails on
Guimaras (p306)
Making an appointment with a healer on
Siquijor (p294) if youre feeling under the
weather
Guimaras
Island
Cebu City
Moalboal
Sipalay
Dumaguete
Bohol
Padre
Burgos
Siquijor
Being one of the few to see wildlife on

remote Sibuyan Island (p342)
Going spelunking on Samar (p347), in one
of Asias longest cave systems
Discovering postcard-perfect tropical retreats in remote Sipalay (p292), such as Punta Ballo
and Sugar Beach
Marooning yourself on tiny Malapascua Island (p249), with its white-sand beaches, laid-back
resorts and great diving
C E B U C e b u C i t y 227
The Visayas
0
0
THE VISAYAS
Laguna
de Bay
CAMARINES
NORTE
LUGUNA
Daet
LUZON
Lucena
San
Miguel
Bay CAMARINES
SUR
QUEZON
CATANDUANES
CATANDUANES
Naga
Santa
Cruz
Virac
MARINDUQUE
Iriga
MARINDUQUE
ALBAY
SIBUYAN
SEA
Liloan
SURIGAO
DEL NORTE
Panoan
Island
Getting Around
Catbalogan
Roxas
Malapascua
Island
ILOILO
ANTIQUE
CAPIZ
Bantayan
Island
Borongan
EASTERN
SAMAR
Tacloban
Maya
Bantanyan
Basey
LEYTE
Guiuan
LEYTE
PANAY
Cadiz
Sagay
Escalante
Dumangas
Iloilo City
Jordan
Pulupandan
Guimaras
Island
CEBU
Ormoc
Isabel
Leyte
Gulf
Tabuelan
CAMOTES
ISLANDS
Homonhon
Island
Abuyog
Baybay
Bacolod
CEBU
Suclaran
Toledo
San Carlos
CEBU CITY
PALAWAN
SAMAR
Biliran
Island
Naval
BILIRAN
VISAYAN
SEA
AKLAN
San Jos
(Antique)
ROMBLON
Kalibo
GUIMARAS
Guihulngan
Poro
Danao
Bato
Talibon
Tangil
NEGROS
Maasin
Ubay
Jeta Fe
Moalboal
NEGROS
OCCIDENTAL
Sipalay
SOUTHERN
LEYTE
Sogod
CAMOTES
SEA
Mactan Island
BOHOL
Tubigon
Carmen
Dinagat
Island
Surigao
Tagbilaran
Jagna
CAGAYAN
ISLANDS
Panglao BOHOL M I N D A N A O
Island
Bato
Tampi
SEA
AGUSAN
DEL NORTE
Dumaguete
Apo
NEGROS Island
ORIENTAL
Larena
Siquijor
Siquijor Island
Mambajao
CAMIGUIN
MISAMIS
OCCIDENTAL
Dipolog
MISAMIS
ORIENTAL
Liloy
Nasipit
Gingoog
Butuan
Dapitan
Oroquieta
ZAMBOANGA
DEL NORTE
Camiguin
Island
Balingoan
SIQUIJOR
ZAMBOANGA
DEL SUR
Ozamis
Cagayan
de Oro
MINDANAO
BUKIDNON
Iligan
Ipil
Illana
Bay
AGUSAN
DEL SUR
Malaybalay
Marawi
LANAO DEL
Lake
NORTE
Lanao LANAO
DEL SUR
Pagadian
MAGUINDANAO
Despite the fact that the Visayas extend so

far in all cardinal directions, the water temperature is always pleasant no matter what
the season, and the air temperature ranges
from 25C to 30C year round. The area is
generally less affected by the dozens of typhoons that sweep through the Philippines
to the north. The wet season is usually from
May to October and the dry season from
November to April, with slight variations
in different parts of the region. For example, rainfall in Leyte and on the west coast
of Samar is more or less evenly distributed
throughout the year, and typhoons strike
southern Samar in November to December.
Cebu is the transport hub of the Visayas. Its
possible to fly directly there without having
to pass through Manila, and it is serviced by
many international airlines with connections
to major and minor Asian cities. Several domestic airlines fly directly from Manila to
Cebu, Negros, Bohol, Leyte, Samar, Panay
and Romblon, and in some cases to more
than one city in each of these island provinces. Siquior is the only province at the moment without a direct connection.
Its also possible to reach many parts of
the Visayas by boat from Manila or ports
in Mindanao.
The only semipractical boat connection
to the region from outside the Philippines
is between Malaysia and Zamboanga.
Strait
Boracay
no
di
Bulan
ar
rn
Matnog Be
San Jacinto
Catarman
Allen
Costa San
Rica
NORTHERN
Masbate
San Isidro SAMAR
Mandaon
MASBATE SAMAR
Calbayog
Santa Fe
Caticlan
it
Ticao
Island
Sibuyan Island
Cajidiocan
Tablas
San
Island Fernando
SORSOGON
Climate
Surigao
Odiongan
Looc
Sorsogon
ra
Burias
Island
MASBATE
Romblon
Romblon Island
SEA
Donsol
St
ROMBLON
ISLANDS
Roxas
PHILIPPINE
Legaspi
Claveria
MINDORO
ORIENTAL
Bulalacao
100 km
60 miles
NORTH
COTABATO
DAVAO
DEL NORTE
A Spanish Armadasized fleet services the

waterways in the Visayas; if viewed from
above by satellite photo, the waterways
would probably look like a slow-moving
German autobahn. The vessels range from
seaworthy to theres no way that thing
floats. Cebu is the main hub, with boats
bound for almost every destination (though
not always directly and often not daily).
Iloilo City on Panay is probably second in
terms of departures and accessibility to other
islands in the region, followed by Tacloban
on Bohol and Dumaguete on Negros.
The only significant dangers and annoyances youll experience in the region are
rapidly dwindling reserves of patience because of unreliable boat schedules and the
anxiety provoked by the predeparture pro-
cedure of recording your name, nationality

and age on a ledger so your remains can be
identified in case of an accident.
CEBU
%032 / pop 2.38 million
Cebu is the hub around which the Visayas

revolves. It is the most densely populated
island in the Philippines and is second only
to Luzon in its strategic and economic importance to the country. Its language, Cebuano, is widely spoken throughout the
Visayas and parts of Mindanao, and its
capital, Cebu City, is a magnet for migrants
from all over the region.
Heavily developed, particularly on its eastern coast, Cebu has a long, bare backbone of
a central mountain range that has confined
most of the population to the coastal fringe.
Mining and logging have taken their toll
on the forests, though with the right guide
there are still a few opportunities for exploring mountains, caves and waterfalls.
The beaches at the northern tip of the
island and on its southwest coast have the
whitest sand and the most spectacular diving. To the north, the idyllic offshore islands
of Bantayan and Malapascua are steadily increasingly in popularity, and deservedly so.
To the south, Moalboals Panagsama Beach
packs a concentrated dose of dive centres
and budget hedonism.
Mactan Island, a short drive from Cebu
City, may be little more than an overdeveloped mudflat, but divers and bird-watchers
still flock to Olango, a reef-ringed outcrop
just off its eastern coast.
Cebu City has the nations busiest port
and its second-busiest airport, and is the
gateway to the Visayas. If you happen to be
travelling from Asia, its an attractive alternative to entering the country at Manila.
CEBU CITY
%032 / pop 718,821
As far as most visitors are concerned, Cebu

City is Manila minus the mayhem. Its traffic
is chaotic, but not insane. Its size and layout can actually be understood, rather than
merely endured. And sigh hardly any of
the taxi drivers here are employed by Satan.
With a vast seaport, an international airport, two giant shopping malls, a modern
T H E V I S AYA S
T H E V I S AYA S
226 T H E V I S AYA S
Cebu
0
0
CEBU
To Manila;
Masbate
VISAYAN
SEA
Balasan
30 km
20 miles
To Tacloban
(Leyte);
Calbayog
(Samar)
Carnassa
Island
Jubay
Batad
PANAY
Guintacan
Island
Madridejos
Daan Bantayan
Silion Island
ILOILO
Bantayan
Island
San
Dionisio
San
Isidro
Maya
LEYTE
LEYTE
Bagay
Bantayan
Santa Fe
Sulangan
To Iloilo
City (Panay)
Malapascua
Island
Logon
Medellin
Hagnaya
San Remedio
Dayhogan
Canal
Palompon
Bogo
History
Cadiz
Sagay
Tabogon
Isabel
Escalante
Sogod
Catmon
Tuburan
Calatrava
NEGROS
Borbon
Tabuelan
Carmelo
CEBU
San Carlos
To Ormoc
(Leyte)
Tulang
Island
Pacijan
Island
Carmen
Asturias
Refugio
(Sipaway)
Island
Balamban
Mt
CENTRAL
Manunggal
CEBU
(960m)
Tabunan
NATIONAL
PARK
NEGROS OCCIDENTAL
CAMOTES
SEA
Liloan
To Hilongos
(Leyte)
Lapu-Lapu
Mandaue
Pinamungajan
Mactan Island
Stra
it
CEBU CITY
on
Ta
Naga
Gilootog
Guihulngan
Jao Island
San Fernando
Barili
Tangil
Jeta Fe
Carcar
Dumanjug
Talibon
i
tra
Ronda
Sibonga
Talood
Alcantara
Pescador
Island
To Maasin
(Leyte)
Olango Island
Talisay
Aloguinsan
Poro
Island
Poro
CAMOTES
ISLANDS
Danao
Toledo
Ubay
ho
Bo
Moalboal
Tubigon
BOHOL
Argao
Badian Island
Badian
Talaga
Montalongon
Matutinao
Dalaguete
Carmen
Loon
Jagna
Malabuyoc
Tagbilaran
Boljoon
Panglao
Island
Sibulan
Dumaguete
Oslob
Mainit
Sumilon Island
SIQUIJOR
To Dapitan
(Mindanao)
Pamilacan
Island
BOHOL
SEA
Santander
Lilo-an
To Larena
(Siquijor)
To Cagayan de Oro;
Ozamis; Iligan; Davao;
Zamboanga (Mindanao)
To Camiguin
When Ferdinand Magellan sailed into the

Port of Cebu on 7 April 1521, an eyewitness account relates that he was already a
latecomer: Many sailing vessels from Siam,
China, and Arabia were docked in the port.
The people ate from porcelain wares and
used a lot of gold and jewellery
He may not have been the first visitor
to Cebu, but Magellan brought with him
something that nobody else had: missionary zeal. Even his death at the hands of
warrior chief Lapu-Lapu on Mactan Island
a few weeks later (see p242) would only afford the natives temporary respite against
the incursions of the conquistadors. The
arrival of avenging Spaniard Miguel Lopez
de Legazpi in 1565 delivered Cebu and
eventually the whole of the Philippines
to Spain and Catholicism. The founding
in 1575 of Villa del Santisimo Nombre de
Jess (Village of the Most Holy Name of
Jesus) marked Cebu City as the first Spanish settlement in the Philippines, predating
Manila by seven years.
Orientation
BOHOL
Cabilao
Island
Alcoy
Alegria
Samboan
San
Sebastian
Talisay
NEGROS
Bato
ORIENTAL
Tampi
San Jos
business park and several universities, Cebu

City has achieved metropolis status without
coming to resemble the ninth circle of hell.
But before we get your hopes up, bear in
mind that its virtues are comparative. With
apologies to a few Peace Corps veterans and
the like, if we were to draw a portrait of the
average foreigner here, it would be of a selfexiled, twice-divorced, chemically dependent middle-aged man with a much younger
Filipina on his arm. Sound familiar?
Cebu City isnt Manila, but that doesnt
make it a place wed want to be spending
our holiday.
To Nasipit; Surigao
(Mindanao)
In spite of the citys maritime beginnings,

its centre has shifted decisively inland. Locals now refer to the newer precinct around
Fuente Osmea as uptown and the older
district around Colon St (the oldest street
in the country) as downtown. Uptown and
downtown have such completely different
characters as to almost seem different cities:
basically downtown is older, dirtier, more
impoverished and more vice-strewn than
uptown. Longtime residents of Cebu City
will admit to have never gone downtown,
and will profess no desire to ever visit.
But it doesnt end there. In recent years the

area northeast of uptown, around the Cebu
Business Park and Ayala Center, has become
like a new uptown, exerting a similar gravitational effect on hotels and businesses that
Fuente Osmea once did. Its greener and
more open than Fuente Osmea, has the best
mall, the best business facilities and some of
the best hotels, and isnt so blighted by girlie
bars as Fuente Osmea. If you like a bit of
quiet, its a good place to base yourself.
In the northern hills beyond the uptown
area is the flash district of Lahug, where
the Waterfront Hotel & Casino exerts a
similar influence on its surrounds to the
Ayala Center.
Cebu City has a long history of changing its street names, with many of the old
names living on, either in the minds of taxi
drivers or on street signs yet to be removed.
If you find yourself squinting up at a street
sign with black lettering on a yellow background, its an old sign and the name may
have since changed. Up-to-date signs are
those with white, or reflective, lettering on
a bright green background.
There are also many streets, avenues,
drives and boulevards using the same name,
such as Osmea, or Ramos often all that
differentiates them is a first name or initial
(eg J Osmea St, S Osmea St).
MAPS
Decent enough tourist maps can be picked

up free from the airport, the Department of
Tourism office (p230) and from most hotels.
For something a bit more in-depth, pick up
an E-Z Cebu map (P110), with Cebu City,
Mandaue, Mactan and Moalboal. Its sold at
the National Bookstore (p230) and at some
of the better hotels and travel agencies.
For nautical and topographical maps and
charts, set a course for the National Mapping
& Resource Authority (Namria; %412 1749; Room
301, 3rd fl, Osmea Bldg, cnr Osmea Blvd & Jakosalem St;
h8am-noon & 1-5pm Mon-Fri).
Information
A full list of consulates in Cebu City can be
found in the free brochure Your Guide to
Cebu, available from all tourist information
outlets (p230).
The Bureau of Immigration Office (%345 6442;
cnr Burgos St & Mandaue Ave; h8-11am & 1-4pm Mon-Fri)
is behind the Mandaue Fire Station, opposite
T H E V I S AYA S
T H E V I S AYA S
228 C E B U
Cebu City
ng S
ago
Kam
ve St
Mola
do Ave
ol S
Boh
Ar
Re chbis
yes ho
Av p
e
Dr
Av
en
ilo
Cu
ax
co
Cemetery
nM
Sepulveda St
St
R Rahmann
D Jakosalem St
tre
in
all
Av
eE
xte
ns
ion
os
am
FR
n St
ldero
s St
rione
MC B
16
MJ Cuenco St
i St
bin
Blv
St
Os
me
co
Ma
St
u-L
lem
s St
Gon
lin St
zale
Linco
F Ca
St
St
Tupas
10
Leg
asp
i St
Os
me
a
Blv
15
d
59
19
AR
osa
rio
14
St
13
Lap
53
DOWNTOWN
54
Cebu
Cathedral
MJ
47
Ave
oS
St
apu
St
ez
To Lite Shipping
58
(1.5km); EB Aznar
eta S
t
Shipping (1.5km);
Cokaliong Shipping Lines
(2km); SM City (3km); Cebu
North Bus Station (3.5km);
Mandaue (8km); Mactan-Cebu
International Airport (15km)
Zulu
en
era
me
55
Magsaysay St
St
Nio
Santo
qu
rro
St
Colon St
Cu
Jun
23
52
Pala
University
of Cebu
Bo
17
S.
i St
St
Espaa
30
A Valle St
Cu
uello
L Jaena St
44
ko S
iang
San Carlos
University
kosa
ion
J Urg
Santa
Rosario
Church
T Padilla St
io S
sar
l Ro
De
56 To Butterfly
Sanctuary (3km)
Sanc
Sikatuna St
Blvd
Villanueva St
St
ea
Pelaez Extens
Osm
n St
38 22
P De
Extn l Rosario
St
ndon
R La
D Ja
Pres
Asuncio
ri
B5
D6
D5
D6
To Kiwi
Lodge (1km)
Ge
J Singson St
tto
FS
co
San Jose St
ea
Guadalupe River
11
w
Cre
Mc le Rd
Vil
J Osm
Iglesia
Church
Ra
25
t
um S
TRANSPORT
Cebu South Bus Station................56
OceanJet..................................... 57
Palacio Shipping Lines..................58
Trans-Asia Shipping Lines............ 59
ve
d
Pon
Extn
a S
SHOPPING
Ayala Center Shopping Mall........ 50 D2
e
Century Plaza
AvCommercial
calso
Complex...................................
51 B3
N Ba
Colonnade Mall...........................52 C5
Gaisano Metro Shopping Mall.....
53StC6
B Aranas
Gaisano Shopping Mall................54 C5
Gaisano South Shopping Mall......
55 B6
C Padilla St
Mango Plaza................................(see 3)
Robinson's Plaza........................(see 21)
Supermarket..............................(see 52)
ind
ao A
sme
ENTERTAINMENT
Adult Cinema.............................(see 23)
Capitol Commercial Complex.....(see 20)
Ratsky........................................(see 50)
Sun City.......................................48 C2
The Wineshop.............................49 C2
an
St
lo
St
da
Tin Acacia
JO
Bo's Coffee Club..........................41 B4

Bo's Coffee Club........................(see 50)
Dish..............................................42 B3
Joven's Grill..................................43 B3
Our Place.....................................44 C5
Persian Palate...............................(see 3)
Persian Palate.............................(see 50)
St Patrick's Square........................45 B3
Sideline Garden Restaurant...........46 B3
Visayan Restaurant...................... 47 C5
Spola
34
50
Cebu Business
Park
To RDEL Pension House; Golden

Cowrie Native Restaurant; Waterfront Hotel Luz
on A
& Casino (3.5km); U.S Consular Agency
ve
(3.5km); Crossroads (3.5km); The Village (3.5km);
Mr A Restaurant; Tops Lookout (12.5km);
Redemptionist Bungtod Grills; Bamboo House (12.5km)
Church of
les
osa
Cebu City
al R
din
Hippodromo
Car e
Av
St
Yap
24 33 45
MP
St
oitiz
43 Rizal
R Ab
Memorial 46
31
27
26
Library & 42
3
Museum
7
12
t
51
37
Ave
te S
28
ilom
ren
Girlie
Max
J Llo
Bars
Gen
4 Fuente
Osmea
21
Circle
UPTOWN
t
ez S
drigu
B Ro
Velez
41
General
6
Hospital St
EATING
1
udo
V Ran
Bo's Coffee Club...........................40 B3
St
d
n
2
A Po
JM Basa
In the foyer of the Diplomat Hotel (p235)

youll find Cebu branches of two reputable
e St
TRAVEL AGENCIES
48
36
ila S
J Av
in
Jasm
A Torm es S
Airport Tourist Information Desk (Mactan-Cebu
20
Diplomat Hotel.................................25 C4
Dynasty Tourist Inn..........................26 A3
Eddie's Hotel....................................27 C3
Fuente Pension.................................28 B3
Golden Peak.....................................29 C2
Hotel de Mercedes...........................30 C5
Jasmine Pension House.....................31 B3
Kukuk's Nest Pension House............32 C2
La Casa Rosario................................33 B3
Marriott Hotel..................................34 D2
Mayflower Pension House................
35 B2
P
Ca
Pensionne La Florentina...................
ba 36 C2
n
Shamrock Pension House..................ta37
n B3
S
Teo-Fel Pension House.....................38 t C5
The Apartelle.................................(see 20)
Verbena Pension House.................(see 31)
West Gorordo Hotel.........................39 C2
B2
B3
C5
C5
B3
29
49
39
40
ar S
TOURIST INFORMATION
International Airport) At the arrivals terminal; open 24

hours. Pick up a free copy of Your Guide to Cebu, with a
map and useful phone numbers.
Department of Tourism (DOT; %254 2811; ground
fl, LDM Bldg, Legazpi St) Free maps and pamphlets, and
information on boat and bus schedules.
St
Azn
Goror
A Villalon Dr
MH
The Sun Star newspaper lists whats going on

around town, movie guides, property rentals,
shipping schedules and classifieds. Sundays
paper is particularly informative. Cebu Daily
SLEEPING
Cebu Grand Hotel............................20
Cebu Midtown Hotel........................21
Cebu Regal Pension House..............22
Century Hotel..................................23
C'est la Vie Pension..........................24
Capitol
t
Building
io S
scar
NE
Philippine Chinese
Spiritual Temple
ve
MEDIA
The citys main post office is in the downtown area, near City Hall. Uptown theres
a post office in the Capitol Building. Holein-the-wall sub-branches can be found at
many of the universities around town.
elez
MV
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

Basilica Minore del Santo Nio.........15 C6
Carbon Market................................16 C6
Casa Gorordo Museum.................... 17 D5
Cebu City Hall................................(see 14)
Fort San Pedro................................. 18 D6
Magellan's Cross..............................19 C6
35
Gue
St
Bataan
z St
you get your washing done; there are branches on F Ramos

St and A Pond St. Laundry requires 24-hour turnaround.
Caf Intelleto (%254 1181; Mango Plaza, Gen
Maxilom Ave) Great little caf/book exchange where you
can surf as you sup.
Dish (%254 0567; Juana Osmea St) Trendy little caf
(p237) offers free use of DSL ports for laptop-carrying
customers.
St Patricks Internet (St Patricks Sq, R Aboitiz St;
h9am-1am Mon-Sat, 3-11pm Sun)
POST
St
rillos
Post Office.......................................14 C6
St Patrick's Internet........................(see 45)
32
To Taoist
Temple (4km)
A Lope
You wont have to walk far to find an Internet

caf, especially in the busier streets uptown
and around the universities. Youll pay only
P20 to P25 per hour in an air-con room on
a fast PC with coffee, drinks and light snacks
on offer; the branches of Bos Coffee Club
(p237) on Osmea Blvd and in the Ayala
Center offer free Internet with coffee. Many
places are open overnight and most are open
daily. Evenings tend to be full of young guys
playing the latest multiplayer shoot-em-ups,
so its best to go during the day.
Bubbles On Line (laundry P40 per kilo) Do Internet as
cheques. The ATM is open during bank hours and takes all
major cards. Theres a P20,000 transaction limit.
Citibank (Mindanao Ave, Cebu Business Park) Near Ayala
Center. Changes cash and travellers cheques. The ATM is
open 24 hours and takes all major cards. Theres a P15,000
transaction limit.
Equitable PCI (cnr Gonzales & Borromeo Sts) Issues cash
advances on major credit cards and Cirrus/Maestro. Theres
also a branch at SM City.
HSBC (Cardinal Rosales Ave, Cebu Business Park) Near
the Ayala Center. Changes cash and travellers cheques.
The ATM is open 24 hours and takes all major cards. The
transaction limit is P30,000.
ma A
INTERNET ACCESS
There are no end of places where you can

change money in Cebu City. The best banks
are to be found around Fuente Osmea and
Ayala Center HSBC is the pick of the
bunch. Credit cardfriendly ATMs abound
(theyre in all the malls) but the drawback
is the transaction limit, which is usually in
the order of P4000 to P5000 except in the
case of the following banks:
Chinabank (F Ramos St) Changes cash and travellers
V Ra
Cebu City Police Station Fuente (%253 5636);

R Landon St (%231 5802)
Task Force Turista (%254 4023; h24hr)
MONEY
1 km
0.5 miles
nD
EMERGENCY
recommended medical facility in Cebu City.

Myrle Lim-Peters (%253 3151; Unit 12, Century Plaza
Commercial Complex, J Osmea St) If youre in need of
dentistry, weve heard good things about Myrle Lim-Peters.
INFORMATION
Bubbles On Line.................................1 B4
Bubbles On Line.................................2 B4
Caf Intelleto.....................................3 C3
Cebu City Police Station.....................4 B3
Cebu City Police Station.....................5 B5
Chinabank..........................................6 B4
Chong Hua Hospital...........................7 B3
Citibank.............................................8 D2
Department of Tourism
(DOT).......................................... 9 D6
Equitable PCI Bank...........................10 C6
HSBC...............................................11 D2
Myrle Lim-Peters............................(see 51)
National Bookstore...........................12 B3
National Mapping & Resource
Authority..................................... 13 C6
t
oa S
tn
M R mos Ex
F Ra
t
S
oza
Blvd
MS
ea
Osm
Pres
St
cia
Gar
t
DG
ui S
M C St
id
St
Orch riguez
d
P Ro
There are a number of outlets of the National

Bookstore, including on Gen Maxilom Ave,
at SM City and at Ayala Center. All stock
local and international fiction and nonfiction, magazines, stationery and maps.
MEDICAL SERVICES
Chong Hua Hospital (%254 1461; M Cui St) The most
0
0
CEBU CITY
illalo
BOOKSHOPS
News is also OK. They can be bought from

street vendors, and inside and outside malls.
Newspapers often sell out by the afternoon.
AV
the Mandaue Sports Complex. Manduae is

a satellite suburb of Cebu City; it lies on the
other side of the bridge to Mactan Island,
on the way to the airport. A taxi there from
downtown will cost around P150. You can
extend a 21-day visa to 59 days here for a
whopping P2020 (this includes a compulsory express fee). You only need to produce
your passport, and you should be out of
there within an hour. For longer visa extensions, you will have to pay around P500 per
month. See p445 for more details.
T H E V I S AYA S
T H E V I S AYA S
230 C E B U C e b u C i t y
Quezon Blvd
Cebu Strait
Leg
18
asp
i St
To Pier 2;
Pier 3;
Pier 4
Pie
r1
57
agencies: Uni-Orient Travel (%253 1866; 90 F Ramos

St, uptown) and Pan Pacific (%254 0343).
Sights
If youre staying uptown, a visit to Colons
principle attractions Fort San Pedro,
Magellans Cross and the Basilica Minore
del Santo Nio is an ideal way to sample
the chaos and seaminess of downtown before beating a hasty retreat.
CARBON MARKET
No, its not the Philippines contribution

to the Kyoto Treaty. Urban living in the
raw, the Carbon Market (MC Briones St) is Cebus
oldest and biggest produce market where
racks of clothes and baskets snuggle cheekby-jowl with stalls of fish, live chickens and
drying intestines. Most jeepneys heading
downtown go to Carbon (P5).
CASA GORORDO MUSEUM
BASILICA MINORE DEL SANTO NIO
This holiest of churches (Osmea Blvd; admission free)

is a real survivor. Built in 1565 and burnt
down three times, it was rebuilt in its present
form in 1737. Perhaps it owes its incendiary past to the perennial bonfire of candles
in its courtyard, stoked by an endless procession of pilgrims and other worshippers.
The object of their veneration is a Flemish
image of the infant Jesus, sequestered in a
chapel to the left of the altar. It dates back
to Magellans time and is said to be miraculous (which it probably had to be to survive
all those fires). Every year, the image is the
centrepiece of Cebus largest annual event,
the Sinulog festival (see opposite).
Dont forget to look up and admire the
heavenly ceiling murals while youre here.
FORT SAN PEDRO
Built in 1565 by Miguel Lopez de Legazpi,

conqueror of the Philippines, Fort San Pedro
(Osmea Blvd; adult/child P20/12; h7am-10pm) has
served as an army garrison, a rebel stronghold, a prison camp and the city zoo. These
days, its retired as a peaceful, walled garden
and handsomely crumbling ruin. A perfect retreat from the chaos and madness of
downtown Cebu, it also has public toilets.
MAGELLANS CROSS
Magellans cross? Wouldnt you be if youd

sailed all the way from Europe only to die
in a soggy heap on the island of Mactan?
Ferdinands Catholic legacy, a large wooden
cross, is housed in a stone rotunda (built
in 1841) across from Cebu City Hall. The
crucifix on show here apparently contains a
few splinters from a cross Magellan planted
on the shores of Cebu in 1521. A painting
on the ceiling of the rotunda shows Magellan erecting the cross (actually, the locals
are doing all the work Magellans just
standing around with his mates).
Downtown, in a quieter residential area,

the Casa Gorordo Museum (%255 5630; 35 L Jaena
St; adult/child & student P70/50; h8.30-11.30am & 14pm Tue-Sun) is one of the hidden gems of
Cebu City. Originally a private home, it was

built in the 1850s and purchased by the
Gorordos, one of Cebus leading families.
The lower part of the house has walls of
Mactan coral stone. The stunning upperstorey living quarters are pure Philippine
hardwood, held together not with nails but
with wooden pegs. As well as having Spanish and native influences, the house incorporates principals of feng shui, owing to
the Chinese ancestry of Gorordo matriarch
Donna Telerafora (whose death portrait
graces the hallway). Items on display include kitchen implements, antique photos
and furniture. The price of admission includes a guided tour.
BUTTERFLY SANCTUARY
One of the first places Cebu residents will

take visiting relatives is the Butterfly Sanctuary (%261 6884; admission P100), west of the
downtown area. Its hardly a place youd
expect butterflies to hang around, but hang
around they do from branches and leaves
all over the garden of Julian Jumalons
home. You will receive a lecture and tour
showing you butterflies in various stages
of their lifecycle, and butterfly collections
and artworks made from damaged butterfly
wings even a presidential portrait! The
best time of day for viewing is the morning,
and the best time of year is from June to
February, when the butterflies are breeding.
Ring first to make a booking.
To get there, catch a jeepney (P5) from N
Bacalso Ave, which turns into Cebu South
Rd, and hop off at Macopa St (after the second pedestrian overpass). Walk up Macopa
St, and take the first left after Basak Elementary School. The sanctuary is on the corner
THE CHINESE OF CEBU

Cebu Citys history is written on its urban landscape. If you can read it, youll find an intriguing
tale of migrations, enclave-building, intermarriage and ethnic flight.
The Chinese have been an integral part of Cebu society since the late 16th century, when
Chinese merchants settled in the baryo of Parian, around where Casa Gorordo stands today.
Owing to their famed ability as merchants, many Cebuano Chinese grew rich. They married
into the Spanish elite and their children, known as mestisos (meaning people of mixed blood),
came to form a favoured caste. As the trade in cash crops grew in the 18th century, the mestisos
established a monopoly. This was formalised in 1780 when the Chinese were expelled by the
Spanish at the urging of the mestisos.
After an 1839 decree rescinding their expulsion, many Chinese began to return to Cebu. By
then Parian had by then become a residential district for wealthy mestisos, filled with the kind
of houses of which Casa Gorordo is a surviving example. Though some Chinese (such as the
founder of the Gorordo clan, Donna Telerafora) converted to Catholicism and married into mestiso and Spanish families, others established their own enclaves. Northwest of Fuente Osmea
and in Lahug you can still find a number of active Chinese temples, symbols of a prosperous
and resilient community.
at the end of this street. A taxi will get you

there from downtown for around P65.
TAOIST TEMPLE
Perched high in the northern hills overlooking the city, the Taoist Temple (h6am-5pm) is a
symbol of the citys large and prosperous ethnic Chinese population. Its not one for temple aficionados; the architecture is functional
and austere by Chinese standards. Nevertheless the trip here, past the gated mansions of
exclusive Beverly Hills, is a good excuse to
see how Cebus wealthier citizens live, and
the views over the city are noteworthy. To
get to the temple take a Lahug or Calunasan
jeepney and ask to stop at the Taoist Temple
or Beverly Hills (P5) youve then got a
short walk uphill. Alternatively, take a taxi
from uptown for about P80.
WATERFRONT HOTEL & CASINO
If highrollings your thing, then Casino Filipino (%232 6888; www.waterfronthotels.net; 1 Salinas
Dr) at the Waterfront Hotel is for you. If not,
the place is still worth a look if only for the
mechanical horse-racing machine, the fake
night sky of the main gaming room, and
the spellbinding ceiling mural in the foyer
a 50m-by-30m recreation of explorer Ferdinand Magellans world map. For more
details, see p236.
Playing satellites to the Waterfront are
Cebus premier international-style dining
and entertainment centres, the Village and
Crossroads (see p237).
TOPS LOOKOUT
Mt Busay makes a mighty backdrop for Cebu

City, but the best view is from the mountain
itself, which is where youll find Tops Lookout (admission P100). Better known simply as
Tops, this modernist, fortresslike viewing
deck provides spectacular views, especially
at sunrise or sunset. There are snack stalls
up here, and beers sell for P40. Many Lahug
jeepneys get within about 500m of the lookout (take one on Osmea Blvd, north of Del
Rosario you may have to change at Cebu
Plaza Hotel and ask for a jeepney to Tops),
from where its a steep, winding road to the
top. A taxi will take you there and back for
around P800, and you will probably have to
pay the drivers admission too.
Activities
If youve come to Cebu for a spot of diving,
the nearest resorts are at Mactan Island. For
details see p242. Otherwise, like most travellers, youll want to get on the first convenient
bus to Moalboal or Malapascua. Other activities you can organise at these places include
trekking, caving, canyoning and sailing.
Festivals & Events

Cebus biggest annual festival draws pilgrims
from around the Philippines. The Sinulog, or
Fiesta Senyor, is the Feast of Santo Nio
(the Christ Child). It is celebrated on the
third Sunday of January and is marked by a
colourful procession bearing the citys venerated image of Santo Nio (see opposite).
T H E V I S AYA S
T H E V I S AYA S
The word sinulog is a Visayan term for a

dance that imitates the rhythm of the river.
It originated as a pagan ritual, but after the
Cebuanos conversion to Christianity it
morphed into a dance to honour the image
of the Santo Nio.
As they are in Holy Week, many hotels
are booked out at this time.
Sleeping
You certainly wont suffer from a lack of
accommodation choices in Cebu City. Due
to the pollution, crowds and poorer demographic of downtown Cebu, the better hotels (and restaurants) are located uptown,
particularly around Ayala Center.
BUDGET
There are good deals to be had all over

town, and transportation is so cheap that
theres no need to put limits on where you
stay; ie you dont have to stay downtown
to save dough.
Downtown
If youre staying downtown, your priority

should be to find a safe and quiet place.
Hotel de Mercedes (%253 1105; hoteldemercedes@
yahoo.com; 7 Pelaez St; s/d from P470/790; a) A good
budget option, this well-run place feels insulated from the street by its spacious lobby. It
has very large, almost cheerful rooms (with
phone and hot water) and an attached Internet caf (P20 per hour). The restaurant
does an American breakfast for P126.
Century Hotel (%255 1600; cnr Colon & Pelaez Sts;
s/d from P440/560; a) Friendly, plain, tidy and
tiled, and it feels pretty safe. Not bad for
downtown.
Uptown
All rooms, unless otherwise noted, have cable

TV and a private cold-water bathroom.
Kukuks Nest Pension House (%231 5180; 157
Gorordo Ave; d with fan/air-con P350/550) A tired old
wooden building at the end of a long courtyard offering simple rooms with paperthin walls and bamboo furnishings. Theres
a jungle-themed outdoor restobar at the
front that tends to fill up at night with foreign males and prostitutes; hence noise and
security are concerns. Mealtime offerings
are very good: calderata de cabrito (goat
in spicy sauce) goes for P125, and banana
pancakes for P85. Lino, the resident artist
here, lost both his arms in a milling accident

when he was 12. Despite this he can knock
off terrifically accomplished, and reasonably priced, charcoal portraits. Ask for him
at the bar.
Pensionne La Florentina (%231 3318; 18 Acacia
St; s/d P550/650; a) An attractive older-style
building on a quiet street around the corner from Kukuks, this family-run place is a
great uptown budget option. Get an upstairs
room facing the street, and youll have nice
views at great rates. The other plus is youre
only a five-minute walk from Ayala Center.
Cest la Vie Pension (%253 5266; J Osmea St; d
with fan P600) Excellent value. On a quiet street
a stones throw from the pleasant Sideline
Garden Restaurant and the convenience of
St Patricks Sq, and far enough from the
sleaze of Gen Maxilom Ave, Such is Life
has very large, comfortable rooms.
Shamrock Pension House (%255 2999/00; fax
253 5239; Fuente Osmea; d P550-900; a) Perfect
for those who want cheap and charmless
accommodation in the thick of uptown.
Theres hot water and the more expensive
rooms have views of Fuente Osmea Circle.
Children under 12 are free.
Mayflower Pension House (%255 8000; fax 255
2700; Villalon Dr; s/d with fan & shared bathroom P260/380,
s/d with air-con & private bathroom P480/630) Near the
Capitol Building, meaning not really close

to anything, this rambling rabbit warren of
a hotel has seemingly hundreds of neat little
rooms. The fan rooms are the best value. A
tricycle parking bay is right outside.
An easy walk from uptown or downtown,
and situated on a quiet, leafy stretch of Junquera St, are two excellent budget hotels.
Teo-Fel Pension House (%253 2482; 4 Junquera
St; s/d from P400/600; a) Teo-Fel offers smallish, aqua-coloured rooms with windows
and rattan furnishings. For an extra P100
to P150, youll get cable TV and hot water.
On the ground floor is the little Caf Felicidad, and there are PLDT (Philippine LongDistance Telephone Company) phones in
the sitting areas.
Cebu Regal Pension House (%255 6758; 9a Junquera St; s/d from P385/550; a) Right across from
Teo-Fel, this place is every bit as good value.
Rooms are clean and freshly painted, and
all have windows.
In a quiet backstreet north of Fuente
Osmea, Jasmine Pension House (%253 3757;
cnr DG Garcia & Jasmine Sts; s/d with cable TV from
P480/580; a) and its neighbour Verbena Pension House (%253 3430; fax 253 3430; 584-A DG Garcia
St; s/d P410/500; a) have basic, tidy rooms.
Jasmines rooms are a little larger, while
Verbena offers cable TV for an extra P60.
MIDRANGE
For midrange and top-end hotels, it is

worth asking about promotional rates, a
reduction of up to 40%, which occurs for
extended periods throughout the year,
making even the more expensive hotels
very reasonably priced. Many of these hotels also offer free accommodation to children under 12 (but stress that the children
must be accompanied by their parents!).
Unless otherwise noted, all rooms have aircon, hot-water bathroom and cable TV.
Uptown
Fuente Pension House (%253 4133; 175 DJ Lorente

St; s/tw from P700/800; a) Not a pension house,
but actually an imposing multistorey hotel,
this is the most popular midrange place in
the uptown area so book ahead. What
makes it worthwhile are its central (yet
quiet) location and its rooftop terrace bar
where you can get tempura shrimp (P110)
and a beer while enjoying a view of Cebu.
The American breakfast is P100. Another
bonus, which will suit late arrivals checkout time is 24 hours after check-in.
La Casa Rosario (%255 0525, 256 2225; 101 R
Aboitiz St; d from P900; a) On a quiet street near
Fuente Osmea, this is a squeaky clean establishment with friendly service and large,
brightly painted rooms at a good price. The
upstairs rooms have small terraces, and the
doubles have a large window as well.
Kiwi Lodge (%/fax 232 9550; kiwilodge@pacific.net
.ph; 1060 G Tudtud St; r P790-980; a) Conveniently
located on a quiet street within walking distance from both Ayala Center and SM City.
Clean, light rooms are very good value,
especially the deluxe (P945), which has a
view. The restaurant-bar on the ground
level is a popular hang-out for businessmen
and expats they come for the pool tables,
fish and chips and Sunday roasts.
Diplomat Hotel (%253 0099; diplomathotel@yahoo
.com; 90 F Ramos St; d P1000-1400; a) Accessed by a
covered mall that leads to a prestige lobby
of marble and glass, the Diplomat Hotel is
a quiet, safe choice. The staff are professional and at your service. Standard rooms
are well priced and spotlessly clean, with

safe and minibar. Rooms in the swanky new
wing are verging on top-end quality.
Cebu Grand Hotel (%254 6331; www.cebugrand
hotel.com; N Escario St; d P1400-2000; as) East
of the Capitol Site in a not-too-convenient
location, this is nevertheless a very good
hotel with spotless, comfortable rooms and
great views. The cheaper rooms are excellent value. Theres a small pool on the 7th
floor, a gym, and a cosy bar off the marble
foyer with videoke and live bands. Service is
impeccable. Buffet breakfast is included.
West Gorordo Hotel (% 231 4347; wgorordo@
skyinet.net; 110 Gorordo Ave; s/d P840/1560; a) A
cloyingly nice hotel, with pink floral wallpaper in the halls and dowdy, tiled rooms
with views. Rates include breakfast, and
other meals can be taken at the popular
Family Choice Restaurant next door, with
Chinese-Filipino all-you-can-eat for P135.
Golden Peak (%233 8111; www.goldenpeakhotel
.com; cnr N Escario St & Gorordo Ave; r from P2000; a)
A mixed bag. On a busy intersection, but

conveniently close to Ayala Center. It has
the usual midrange amenities plus buffet
breakfast yet at prices nearing those of topend establishments. We found some of the
staff lacking in professionalism.
Dynasty Tourist Inn (%253 7598; Jasmine St; d/tw
P750/850; a) With Chinese dcor to go with
the name, Dynasty is not the friendliest
place but it has well-priced rooms some
with good views. Youll find it at the western end of Jasmine St, where the road hits
P Rodriguez St.
Eddies Hotel (%254 8570/76; clover8@pacific.net
.ph; F Manalo St; r P1480-1880; a) Just near the
girlie-bar precinct, which explains all the old
blokes with young women in the lobby when
we were there. Still, it could be a lot worse:
staff are professional and the rooms are well
kept and light-filled the more expensive,
the more spacious. The hotels 24-hour Beverly Room Bar & Restaurant serves what is
reputed to be Cebus best steak (imported
porterhouse, P860).
For people staying a month or more, the
Apartelle (%255 6385; N Escario St; studios/ste from
P750/1100; a) has great deals on modestly
appointed apartments, with discounts of up
to 50% for the long-termer. The studios are
big, the suites are enormous. All rooms have
basic kitchen facilities and fridge, and for an
extra P350 rooms have table and dresser.
T H E V I S AYA S
T H E V I S AYA S
Lahug
RDEL Pension House (Alderan Hotel; %234 0322, %/

fax 414 7087; Salinas Dr; d from P850; as) Formerly called the Alderan, this is reasonably
priced for what you get. The rooms range
a lot in quality some have carpet, TV
and/or fridge so if youre unhappy, ask to
see other rooms. Tucked almost under the
stairs is a small, neglected-looking pool.
TOP END
Unless otherwise noted, top-end hotel rooms

will come with phone and minibar, safe,
cable TV and all the other trimmings. Its
worth asking for promotional rates; you may
get a discount of up to 40%.
favourites include flame-grilled chicken kebabs (P20), banana-Q (grilled banana; two
for P8), bola bola (meatballs; P8) and buso
(hanging rice in woven pyramids; P3).
Cebu is also full of bakeshops, offering
a reliable source of fresh bread rolls, cakes
and buns. Self-caterers will also find supermarkets, including one in Mango Plaza.
Alas, for those hoping to find a culinary
gem hidden down some quiet backstreet, in
Cebus version of urban flight most of the
citys better eateries (and shops and bars)
have gravitated to the malls, in some cases
leaving only darkened traffic sewers where
once there were viable shopping strips.
DOWNTOWN
Right in the thick of it, above Robinson

Plaza. The rooms facing the harbour have
the best views. Judging by all the literature in the foyer, a typical preoccupation of
guests here is arranging foreign visas. The
hotel offers a 10% discount to Filipinos and
foreigners with Filipino partners.
While genuinely good restaurants are rare

in Cebu City, theyre virtually nonexistent
in the downtown area. Fast-food joints and
uninspiring Chinese and Filipino-style diners are the rule.
Our Place (cnr Pelaez & Sanciangko Sts; meals P150250) Upstairs, Our Place is a favourite haunt
of foreign blokes. Its a cosy, colourful, oldstyle place with wagon wheels on the windows, bumper stickers and licence plates
on the walls, a well-stocked bar and a menu
ranging from triple-decker pancakes (P65)
to hearty steaks (P250).
Visayan Restaurant (Manalili St; dishes P70-150)
Near Hotel Victoria de Cebu, it offers big
portions of good Filipino and Chinese food
in cleaner and more comfortable surroundings than youll find nearby. Vegetarians
should note: the bean-curd soup has meat
in it, the fried rice has meat in it
Lahug
UPTOWN
Waterfront Hotel & Casino (%232 6888; www.water

fronthotels.net; 1 Salinas Dr; d from US$150; as) Misleadingly named, as it is more than 2km from
the water, and beloved of taxi drivers because
of its big-tipping guests, the Waterfront is
Asian highroller city. It appeals to those
taken by the thought of a 24-hour casino, and
countless food-and-beverage outlets, discos,
gyms, piano bars etc. See also p233.
Sideline Garden Restaurant (J Osmea St; meals from

P90) Set beneath a large pagoda in a pretty
little park, Sideline is a delightfully ambient
restobar with cheap beers (San Miguel P25)
and decent Filipino food. A great place to sit
in the afternoon and watch the world go by.
Jovens Grill (cnr Pres Osmea Blvd & Jasmine St; buffet P120) One of Cebus better all-you-can-eat
buffets. Popular with families, and a good
spread.
Caf Intelleto (%254 1181; Mango Plaza, Gen Maxilom Ave; meals P100-150) Great little caf/book
exchange where you can surf the Net. Pastas
are a speciality. A favourite with students,
menu items are named after the classics.
(The Divine Comedy was a little oily.)
Uptown
Marriott Hotel (%232 6100; www.marriott.com; Cardinal Rosales Ave, Cebu Business Park; s/d from US$130/155;
as) Well located in some parkland be-
hind the Ayala Center, near banks, shops

and businesses. As you would expect,
rooms are stylish and well-appointed, with
most offering good views. Generous-sized
suites offer all the comforts of home and
theres broadband access. Packages may
include buffet breakfast.
Cebu Midtown Hotel (%253 9711; cmhsales@
skyinet.net; Fuente Osmea; s/d from US$75/85; as)
Eating
For the peckish, theres a generous serving of
food stalls set up around town. The biggest
stall of them all is Carbon Market (p232)
we suspect the name is a reference to the state
of the barbecue they serve here. Perennial
Dish (%254 0567; J Osmea St; meals P100-180;

h9am-midnight Mon-Sat) Next to Century Plaza,
this is one of the new breed of slick, designer
cafs. With smooth tunes and polished
service, enjoy generous serves of pan-Asian
meals, including pad thai (P85) and sensational coconut-curried prawns (P160).
Persian Palate (Ayala Center; meals P75-175; h11am3pm & 5.30-10.30pm Mon-Sat) A popular franchise
dishing up generous helpings of reasonably
authentic Indian and Middle Eastern food. It
advertises spicy food, but even the hot curries are quite mild. Its menu includes a rarity
in Cebu City a large vegetarian selection.
There are branches at Mango Plaza and on
Gen Maxilom Ave.
Bos Coffee Club (F Ramos St; coffee P35-75, cakes
P25-50) The Philippine version of Starbucks,
even down to dcor, logo and cookies. One
of the only places youll find good espressos,
and also a typical Americano range. Popular with young Filipinos, this is a good aircon escape from the streets. Other locations
include Omea Blvd and Ayala Center.
Ayala Center (Cebu Business Park) is a shopping
mall with a surprising array of decent food
outlets. The most grown-up are in the Food
& Entertainment Area (h 10am-1am Mon-Thu,
10am-3am Fri-Sun), in the north wing of the
mall. Enter by the door 50m south of the
corner of Mindanao Ave and Bohol St. Rubbing shoulders with a Time Zone video arcade and various bars youll find Tequila Joes
for truly excellent Mexican and margaritas
(and a garden dining area), Don Henricos for
decent pizzas and pasta, Hap Japs for chic
Asian fusionthe list goes on.
St Patricks Square (R Aboitiz St) is a conveniently placed outdoor mall with a couple
of good eateries and an Internet caf. Bean
Sprouts Oriental Caf (meals P140-200) has a decent
selection of Chinese and vegetarian food that
you can eat in or take away, and Brown Up Caf
is a Bos/Starbucksstyle espresso shop.
LAHUG
Golden Cowrie Native Restaurant (%233 4243; Salinas Dr; meals from P115; h11am-2pm & 6-10pm) This
is a great place to try authentic native-style
cuisine. The service is impeccable and the
food, presented on a banana leaf, is simply
delicious. Try the sizzling bangus (the Philippines national fish) we had two.
Mr A (%232 5200; Lower Busay Heights; dishes from
p200; h11am-2am) Can be reached by follow-
ing the road to Tops Lookout (see p233).

A favourite with the well-heeled patrons of
the Waterfront, it features a terrace with a
sweeping view of Cebu City that is arguably
superior to Tops. Unlike the view, we found
the Filipino/international food nothing to
write home about. (If its the view you
crave, a quiet drink will serve the purpose.)
Its 40 minutes by taxi, which will cost you
around P400 including the wait or you
can include it in your Tops itinerary.
If Mr A wants more than you can pay,
Bungtod Grills & Bamboo House (Lower Busay
Heights; h3pm-2am daily; meals P60-80) is another
place en route to Tops. The views arent as
spectacular, but it sure is a lot cheaper.
For high-class, international-style dining
you cant go past the two minimalls in the
foothills of the Waterfront Hotel, Crossroads
(M Cuenco Ave) and the Village (Salinas Dr). A metered taxi from Fuente Osmea will cost you
P50 to P60.
Tenants at Crossroads include: Maos for
Chinese; Olio for seafood, steak and wine;
and Krau Thai for mild (Filipino-ised) Thai.
Meals are mostly at the pricier end: P200
for a standard main, P450 and above for
seafood and steak.
The Village is a little downmarket in comparison to Crossroads. It features a range of
schmick, look-alike restobars including Yo!
Latino (meals P100-150), with a Spanish/Mexican
menu and live bands every night.
Entertainment
Wineshop (51 Gorordo Ave) Cheery, welcoming
and unpretentious, with a mixed crowd of
Filipino and foreign clientele, this Spanishowned place is hands down our favourite
Cebu City hangout. Theres no videoke or
blaring sound system, just the convivial hum
of conversation. The kicker is the wine selection, including an eminently drinkable Spanish house red that goes for just P60 a carafe.
They also do reasonable set meals (P180).
Sun City (N Escario St) Cebu City has its share
of universities, hence places like Sun City.
Tarpaulin ceiling, white plastic tables and
chairs, acoustic live sets, pool tables, reasonably priced beer (San Miguel P30) and,
of course, students. Its diagonally opposite
the Golden Peak.
Ratsky (%234 2554; Ayala Center, Food & Entertainment Area; night-time admission P150) A smooth bar
where hip young things head to at night for
T H E V I S AYA S
T H E V I S AYA S
a drink (San Miguel P70) and to hear live

music. Pasta, sushi, burgers and oysters are
on the menu. Enter by the door 50m south
of the corner of Mindanao Ave and Bohol St.
If Ratsky doesnt do it for you, there are other
bars in Ayala. Dress code applies and the admission price entitles you to one free beer.
Lahugs food and entertainment minimalls Crossroads (M Cuenco Ave) and the Village
(Salinas Dr) have a number of restobars and
live venues where you can dance and drink
the night away. The most sophisticated
is Crossroads Voodoo, with relaxed black
dcor and a small stage that features DJs
and/or live bands every night.
Shopping
Cebuanos certainly love their malls. You
can eat, shop, bank, organise flights and
party in these armour-guarded consumer
magnets, and all in the comfort of air-con.
Opening hours are typically 10am to 9pm.
Ayala Center (Cebu Business Park) A six-storey
dome, it seems small in comparison to the
more upmarket SM City. However, youll
still find most banks, airlines and tour
companies represented here. There are also
European and American label boutiques,
restaurants (see p236), bars (see p237),
health spas, cinemas, every fast-food chain
imaginable, games halls and even a childcare centre, which makes you wonder if
some people never leave this place.
Robinsons Plaza (Fuente Osmea) A small-time
shopping mall, but handy if youre uptown.
It has a department store, supermarket,
ATMs, ticketing agencies and a food court.
SM City (North Reclamation Area) The pice de rsistance of shopping malls. You can organise travel and banking, and cover all other
necessities in a place big enough to have its
own government and currency. Youll also
find very helpful information booths here
to help you navigate your way.
Other malls include Century Plaza Commercial Complex, Colonnade Mall, Gaisano
Metro, Gaisano South and Mango Plaza.

AIR
If it suits your itinerary to fly in from Asia,

arriving in Cebu City rather than Manila
has its advantages. Cebus Mactan-Cebu International Airport (MCIA; %340 2486; www.mactan
-cebuairport.com) is second only to Manila in
terms of air traffic, but way ahead in terms

of user-friendliness. Note that the airport
is actually on Mactan Island (p242), 15km
east of Cebu City.
Within the Philippines, domestic airlines
fly between Cebu and around a dozen destinations including, of course, Manila.
Airport terminal fees are P100 (cash) for
domestic flights and a hefty P550 for international flights.
The following domestic and international
airlines have offices at MCIA:
Air Philippines (%341 0930; www.airphils.com)
Asian Spirit (%341 2550; www.asianspirit.com)
Cathay Pacific (%340 3254; www.cathaypacific.com)
Cebu Pacific (%340 7980, www.cebupacificair.com)
Malaysia Airlines (%340 2978; www.malaysiaairlines
.com)
Philippine Airlines (PAL; %340 0191; www.philip

pineairlines.com)
Singapore Airlines (Silkair; %340 0041; www.silkair

.com.sg)
South East Asian Airlines (SEAIR; %341 4879; www

.flyseair.com)
Its a one-hour flight between Cebu and

Manila. The route is service by Air Philippines (two flights daily each way), Cebu
Pacific (nine flights daily each way) and
Philippine Airlines (seven or eight flights
daily each way, from 5am to 7.30pm).
Other domestic destinations include the
following:
Bacolod Cebu Pacific, PAL (30 minutes, twice daily).
Cagayan de Oro Asian Spirit (one hour, three weekly).
Camiguin SEAIR (one hour, weekly).
Caticlan Asian Spirit, SEAIR (one hour, twice daily).
Davao Cebu Pacific, PAL (one hour, two to three times daily).
General Santos Air Philippines (one hour, daily).
Iloilo Cebu Pacific, PAL (40 minutes, twice daily).
Kalibo Cebu Pacific (40 minutes, three weekly).
Siargao SEAIR (one hour, weekly).
Zamboanga Air Philippines, Cebu Pacific (one hour, five
weekly).
International destinations include Hong

Kong (Cathay Pacific, daily), Kuala Lumpur
(Malaysia Airlines, twice weekly), Seoul
(PAL, eight weekly), Singapore (Silkair,
daily) and Tokyo (PAL, five weekly).
BOAT
Cebu Citys vast, multipiered port throngs

with boats travelling around the Philippines
and internationally. The bigger passenger-
ferry lines such as SuperCat and OceanJet

run large, fast ferries to and from Cebu City
every day of the year except Good Friday and
New Years Day.
All shipping information is vulnerable to
change. The Sun Star newspaper publishes
a schedule that is generally reliable, but it is
always good to double-check your schedules
directly with the shipping companies. Also
confirm the pier from which your boat is departing, or you might be in for a last-minute
scramble when you arrive at the port.
Ticket prices for passenger liners quoted
in this section apply to the cheapest fare,
usually known as economy or budget. The
rule here, as always, is that you get what you
pay for. More expensive categories available
are usually tourist and cabin (air-con),
which cost around 20% and 30% more, respectively and are often well worth it if
you plan to get some sleep. Most companies
offer discounts to students (15%), disabled
travellers (20%), senior citizens (20%) and
minors (12 years and under; 50%).
You can purchase tickets for SuperFerry,
SuperCat and Cebu Ferries at Aboitiz Express
(2GO; %233 7000), which has offices in Robinsons Plaza, Ayala Center and SM City.
Bookings for the above lines plus Cokaliong, Aznar, Super Shuttle Ferry and Sulpicio
can be made at the Travellers Lounge (%232
0291; SM City, in car park left of entrance 3). Otherwise
you can book your ticket directly at the shipping companys booking office, which in
many cases will be at the port, usually at the
pier from which its boat departs.
Cebu City passenger-ship companies and
their details are as follows:
Carlos A Gothing Lines (%232 9998; Gothing Private
Wharf, Pier 7, FF Cruz, Mandaue)
Cebu Ferries (%232 4229; www.cebuferries.com; Pier 4)

Cokaliong Shipping Lines (%232 7211; www
.cokaliongshipping.com; D S Osmea Ave, North Reclamation Area) Boats leave from Pier 1.
EB Aznar Shipping (%234 4624; EB Aznar Bldg,
T Padilla St)
George & Peter Lines (%254 5404; Pier 2)
Jadestar Shipping Lines (%254 0263; Pier 3)
Lite Shipping Corporation (%253 7776; cnr GL
Lavilles St & MJ Cuenco Ave)
OceanJet (%255 7560; www.oceanjet.net; Pier 1)
Palacio Shipping Lines (%255 4538, 253 7700; cnr
Mabini & Zulueta Sts) Boats depart Pier 1.
Roble Shipping Lines (%255 5904; Pier 3)
Roly Shipping Lines (%234 0827; Pier 3)
Sulpicio Lines (%232 5361; www.sulpiciolines.com;

Sulpicio Go St, Reclamation Area; booking office Pier 3)
Super Shuttle Ferry (book through Travellers Lounge
%232 0291; SM City)
SuperCat (%234 9600; www.supercat.com.ph; Pier 4)
SuperFerry (%233 7000; www.superferry.com.ph; Pier 3)
Trans-Asia Shipping Lines (%255 7899; www
.transasiashipping.com; Trans-Asia Shipping Lines Bldg, cnr
MJ Cuenco & Osmea Blvd) Boats depart Pier 4.
VG Shipping Lines (%416 6226; Pier 3)
Weesam Express (%412 9562; www.weesamexpress
.com; Pier 4)
BUS
The main bus lines servicing the Cebu area

are Ceres Bus Liner (%261 5008), CBL Liner (%232
1850), ABC Liner (%253 1668) and Rough Riders
(%233 5238).
The most popular destination outside
Cebu City is the southern dive spot of Moalboal. The Cebu South bus station is a short
taxi ride from downtown (around P30),
otherwise take the BasakColon, Urgello
Colon or LabangonColonPier jeepney for
P5. From here, there are buses leaving all day
for Argao (P55, two hours), Bato and Lilo-an
(via Oslob; P75, five hours), Toledo (P40,
three hours) and Moalboal (via Carcar; P65,
three hours).
If youre after a public bus north, the Cebu
North bus station, servicing several bus
lines, has rather inconveniently shifted out
to Mandaue, a 15-minute, P75 taxi ride from
uptown. A MaboloCarbon or Mandaue
Cebu City jeepney will take you there, and
bring you back into town (P4). The station
is on Wireless St, in the desolate Reclamation Area.
Rough Riders buses to Maya, the gateway
town for boats to Malapascua, run from 6am
to 6pm (P100, 4 hours, every half hour).
At the north station youll also find PhilCebu Bus Lines (usually called CBL) buses
to Hagnaya, the gateway town to Bantayan
Island. They leave up to seven times daily,
from 7.30am to 5pm (P80, around three
hours). Some other bus companies only go
as far as Bogo (P60, 2 hours), where you
must take a tricycle to Hagnaya pier (P40, 20
minutes). The last boat departs Hagnaya for
Bantayan at 6.30pm (for details see p249).
If you are heading to Malapascua Island
and your accommodation is in uptown
Cebu, you can jump on a bus at Ayala
Center, get off at Bogo and catch a bus
T H E V I S AYA S
T H E V I S AYA S
CEBU FERRIES
Destination
Bantayan Is
Santa Fe
Bohol
Tagbilaran
Talibon
Tubigon
Camotes Is
Poro
Leyte
Hilongos
Maasin
Ormoc
Luzon
Manila
Masbate
Masbate town
Destination
Operator
Price (P)
Duration (hrs)
Operator
Price (P)
Duration (hrs)
Frequency
Cebu Ferries
Sulpicio
Trans-Asia
George & Peter
Sulpicio
SuperFerry
Sulpicio
Cebu Ferries
Cebu Ferries
Carlos A Gothing
Cebu Ferries
Carlos A Gothing
Sulpicio
Trans-Asia
Cokaliong Shipping
Sulpicio
SuperFerry
George & Peter
455
450
450
465
1350
1350
485
550
350
300
495
490
490
490
450
450
440
900
10
8
10
12
34
34
11
15
11
12
11
12
8
12
10-13
14
8
28
5-6/week
4/week
3/week
5/week
1/week
1/week
1/week
3/week
3/week
5/week
4/week
3/week
1/week
3/week
1/day
1/week
1/week
1/week
Cokaliong Shipping
George & Peter
OceanJet
440
305
645
6
6
2
1/day
1/day
2/day
Cokaliong Shipping
Trans-Asia
685
650
14
16
3/week
1/day
Palacio Shipping
Trans-Asia
270
380
10
10
4/week
3/week
OceanJet
750
Palacio Shipping
255
2/day (via
Tagbilaran)
2/week
Frequency
Mindanao
Cagayan de Oro
Palacio Shipping
175
2/week
Cokaliong Shipping
Lite Shipping
OceanJet
Palacio Shipping
Sulpicio
SuperCat
Weesam Express
VG Shipping
Jadestar Shipping
Lite Shipping
OceanJet
Roly Shipping
Tubigon Shipping
165
155
480
165
165
525
300
120
100
100
300
100
100
5
4
1
4
5
1
2
3
2
2
1
2
2
1/day
2/day
4/day
3/week
1/week
3/day
3/week
2/day
2/day
2/day
6/day
6/day
4/day
Dapitan
Davao
EB Aznar Shipping
140
2/day (noon & 9pm)
OceanJet
Cokaliong Shipping
Cebu Ferries
Lite Shipping
Roble Shipping
Sulpicio
SuperCat
Super Shuttle Ferry
500
305
255
250
230
175
625
250
2
6
6
6
6
6
2
5
2/day
4/week
1/day
1/day
1/day
1/week
3/day
1/day
Zamboanga
Negros
Dumaguete
Sulpicio Lines
SuperFerry
1520
1520
19-21
21
5/week
6/week
Trans-Asia Shipping
360
13
4/week
to Daan Bantayan (P30, one hour) and a

hubel-hubel to Maya pier (P30, 20 minutes). The last regular service is usually
around 5pm (for details see p253).
If you want to do some sightseeing along
the coast, you can hop off on the way and
wait for another bus to come. Waving one
down from the highway is usually not a
problem, although theyll often be standing
room only.
For both northern and southern destinations, there are also air-con vans departing
from the White Gold Terminal (%232 7501; Pier
4, Reclamation Area). They have no schedules,
but leave when the van is half to threequarters full, so if youre the first seated,
you may have to wait. Air-conditioned and
with fewer passengers, these are a faster,

cushier way to get around. Rates are up to
30% higher than the bus.
Getting Around
TO/FROM THE AIRPORT
Hire cars with drivers are parked directly

outside the arrivals terminal; drivers hand
tourists a card with the their registration
and a fixed rate for trips between the airport
and Cebu City (P275). If you pass these
by, a pedestrian crossing leads to a flight
of stairs which will take you to a taxi rank.
Taxi drivers will generally charge you the
fixed price of P200 to any destination in
Cebu City very reasonable in light of the
traffic and distance. Theoretically, a me-
Iligan
Nasipit (Butuan)
Ozamis
Surigao
Panay
Iloilo
Samar
Calbayog
Siquijor
Larena
tered trip would cost around P175, but few

drivers will agree to this.
At first, arriving at Cebu City pier seems
startlingly similar to arriving at the airport
a throng of taxi drivers all desperately hoping you wont want them to use their meters.
If they try the fixed-fare line on you, just
wander across to the other side of the road to
find a cabbie who will switch on the meter
the real (ie metered) rate into central Cebu
City is P40 to P50.
neither cheap nor common. Local car-hire

companies generally charge around P2500
for 24 hours (no petrol included), with special deals for longer periods.
More common is to get a car with a
driver, all petrol included. Its about P1000
for the first three hours, then around P250
per succeeding hour. Cheaper still is striking
a deal directly with a taxi driver (see p242).
Most hotels can arrange car hire for you,
or you can book one yourself. Avis Rent-A-Car
(%231 0941) and Thrifty Car Rental (%341 0364)
both have desks at the airport.
CAR
JEEPNEY
Unlike Manila, Cebu is a place where doit-yourself driving is feasible, though its
Cebu City has no local buses, so jeepneys

and taxis pretty much rule the road. As
TO/FROM THE PIER
T H E V I S AYA S
T H E V I S AYA S
C E B U A r o u n d C e b u C i t y 243
Mactan Island & Olango Island
in Manila, most jeepneys have a set route,

and this is displayed in the front window
and along the side. Youll pay P5 to travel
up to 5km within the city, and the longer
journeys shouldnt cost more than P10. If
in doubt, locals are always very helpful and
well informed on these matters.
One important thing to remember with
jeepneys they travel a circular route, so
dont expect to take the same jeepney back
the way you came. Also, if a jeepney has just
passed a destination written on the side, it
will have to do the full circuit before returning a long way to get to a place that may
only be a 10-minute walk.
TAXI
All in all, Cebuano taxi drivers are a gentler

breed than their Manila counterparts. Unless
a big ship has just docked, or its serious festival time, catching a taxi in Cebu City couldnt
be easier. Flagfall is P30 and then P2.5 for
each additional 300m. Most drivers really will
stick to the metered price for anything other
than the airport or out-of-town destinations.
And before you suspect your driver of taking the long way around, remember theres
a huge number of one-way streets here, especially in the downtown area.
Around the uptown and downtown areas,
P30 to P50 is a typical, fair fare. To reach
fringe areas such as Lahug it can cost up to
P80. If you want to see all the sights, touring
in a taxi for a day is a perfectly sensible way
to do it and its definitely cheaper than
hiring your own car. The usual negotiated
price is around P1000 for a day.
For many out-of-town destinations, taxis
will fix a price that may seem way above
what the meter would give. This is to cover
petrol and the return drive for which the
driver may not get a fare. So it often makes
more sense to ask your driver to wait and
negotiate a return fare it may be no dearer
than a one-way trip.
AROUND CEBU CITY

Mactan Island
%032 / pop 217,019
If youre flying into Cebu City, nearby Mactan

is where youll actually land. Connected to
Cebu City by the MandaueMactan Bridge
(the old bridge) and Marcelo B Fernan (the
new bridge), this little island can certainly
claim to have it all. Whether you want it all is
another matter. Theres an oil depot, a string

of ritzy beach resorts, an export-processing
zone, several guitar factories and, of course,
an international airport. Mactans chief assets
are its airport and the fact that its only a taxi
drive from Cebu City. Its towns are charmless and its beaches are less-than-average by
Philippine standards.
Mactan is the improbable site of one of the

defining moments of the Philippines. It
was here, on 27 April 1521, that Ferdinand
Magellan made the fatal mistake of underestimating the fighting spirit of Chief LapuLapu. As the standard-bearer for Spain,
Magellan had managed to curry the favour
of all the most powerful chiefs of the region,
with the single exception of Lapu-Lapu. So
with 60 of his best soldiers, Magellan sailed
to the island to teach him a lesson in gunboat diplomacy. But Lapu-Lapu and his
men defended their island with unimagined
ferocity, and Magellan was soon back on
his boat fatally wounded by a spear to his
head and a poisoned arrow to his leg. This
event is commemorated at the Mactan Shrine
on a stone plinth bearing the date that Magellan was felled. Next to it is a statue of a
ripped and pumped Lapu-Lapu, looking a
bit like a fantasy action figure. Almost 500
years later, foreigners are still falling victim
to Mactan, only these days its their budgets
that cop the beating.
Mactans real attraction lies beneath the
surface, in the reefs around it and nearby
Olango Island (p244). Alas, great swathes
of coral have been destroyed by a lethal
combination of typhoons, crown-of-thorns
starfish and dynamite fishing. To protect
against the latter, a couple of marine reserves are maintained off Nalusuan and Hilotongan Islands, with their upkeep being
paid for by dive fees (P100 per diver).
For info on diving around Mactan
and further afield contact Tropical Island
Adventures (%340 1845; Buyong Beach, Maribago;
www.cebudive.com), 7 Seas Aquanauts (%495 2471;
www.kontikidivers.com.ph; Club Kon Tiki) or Scottys Dive
Center (%231 5060; http://divescotty.com; Shangri-Las
Mactan Island Resort).
Mactan is as famous for its handmade
guitars as for its diving. For a peek at a guitar factory, ask a tricycle driver to take you
to Alegre (%340 4492; h8am-6pm Mon-Sat). It is
5 km
3 miles
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

7 Seas Aquanauts.............................(see 6)
Alegre Guitar Factory.........................1 B2
Mactan Shrine....................................2 C2
Olango Island Wildlife Sanctuary.......3 D3
Scotty's Dive Center.......................(see 10)
Tropical Island Adventures.................4 C2
CEBU
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
0
0
MACTAN ISLAND & OLANGO ISLAND
Sapangdako
Mabolo
Br New
id
ge
Mandaue
Br Old
id
ge
13
Lapu-Lapu
15 2
10
Angasil Pier
11
Mactan-Cebu
International
Airport
Basak
Abuno
Agus
Marigondon
Lava
Island
B2
B2
B2
C2
Punta
Engao
Mactan Export
Processing Zone
14
12
Mambaling
EATING
Gaisano Mactan Mall........................12
Lapu-Lapu Public Market..................13
Majestic............................................14
Sutukil..............................................15
Pusok
Cebu City
Shangri-La's Mactan Island Resort....10 C2

Waterfront Airport Hotel & Casino...11 B2
SLEEPING
Bahia Resort Hotel..............................5 B2
Bellavista Hotel.................................(see 8)
Club Kontiki.......................................6 C2
Days Hotel..........................................7 B2
Hotel Cesario......................................8 B2
Plantation Bay Resort & Spa...............9 B3
CAMOTES
Mabini
Maribago
6
SEA
Olango
Island
Santa Rosa
Catarman
Cordova
San Vincente
Panganan
Island
Hilotongan
Island
one of several factories in Abuno, the guitar

town in the centre of Mactan. Alegre guitars range from the P2000 decoration cheapie to the P60,000 export quality, made
from a German Spruce soundboard and a
Brazilian Rosewood side and back.
SLEEPING & EATING
There are two distinct sides to Mactans accommodation options east and west, with
nothing in between.
West Coast
The west (or more properly northwest)

coast of Mactan is where youll find MactanCebu International Airport, the two bridges
to the mainland, and Mactans main metropolis of Lapu-Lapu a long, ugly stretch
of road flanked by malls and Japanese restaurants. You might consider staying here if
you have an early-morning flight. All places
require advance bookings.
Hotel Cesario (%340 0211; www.hotelcesario.com;
ML Quezon Hwy; d from P850) Offers budget rooms
with a great perk you get free use of the
sauna and pool at their sister hotel, the Bel-
To Nalusuan Caohagan
Island (6km)
Island
lavista. With breakfast for one and airport

transfers included, this is one of the better
deals on the island.
Bellavista Hotel (%340 7821; www.thebellavis
tahotel.com; ML Quezon Hwy; d from P2000; s) The
upmarket version of the Cesario next door.
As rooftop bar, restaurant and health club
are offered to the poorer neighbours, the
extra dough is just getting you a swankier
room. Filipino and international meals in
the restaurant range from P120 to P200.
Days Hotel (%/fax 341 0476; www.dayshotel.ph; s/d
from US$45/55) A cookie-cutter hotel at the end
of a prohibitively long driveway, Days offers
reasonable value for those wishing to wake up
next to the airport. Rooms are large and well
appointed, and for an extra P1500 you get a
spa. Airport transfers, continental breakfast
and a daily newspaper are included.
Waterfront Airport Hotel and Casino (%340
4888; www.waterfronthotels.net; Airport Rd; d from
US$165) The sister hotel of the Waterfront
Hotel in Lahug, Cebu City, offers similar

exclusivity at a similar price.
Majestic (%340 9714; Marina Mall; dinner around
P250, lunch buffet P150; h11am-10pm, buffet 11am-2pm)
T H E V I S AYA S
T H E V I S AYA S
242 C E B U A r o u n d C e b u C i t y
A favourite with locals who come for the

live seafood and Chinese cuisine. Even if
Sizzling Live Eel with Black Beans (P160 per
100g) is not your fancy, the buffet, featuring
salads and seafood, is still great value.
Gaisano Mactan Mall has the usual Jollibee
and KFC joints. Head west along G Y de la
Serna St for the town centre and the vast
Lapu-Lapu Public Market.
East Coast
A dozen or so beach resorts have staked out

Mactans eastern coast. All have their own
restaurants and diving facilities, and most
provide free airport transfers. Only the less
expensive places take walk-in guests. The
more exclusive resorts are prohibitively difficult to get out of, let alone get into. They
are walled in, effectively cutting off the
beach to casual strollers, and guards watch
over the front gates. Once inside, you could
be in any tropical resort, anywhere. Weve
listed only the stand-outs: for a complete
list, consult your travel agent.
Club Kon Tiki (%495 2471; www.kontikidivers.com
.ph; Maribago Beach; d with fan/air-con P680/900) Owned
and operated by 7 Seas Aquanauts, Club Kon
Tiki is the best budget option on Mactan,
and has great dive facilities. Spartan rooms
with fibro walls feel slightly neglected, but
there is hot water, a nice bar with sea views
and a house beach for snorkelling.
Bahia Resort Hotel (%495 2352; d from P1200, P75
per extra person, up to 3 extra; as) In the cheapand-cheerful category, it offers fusty motelstyle rooms (with hot-water bathroom) on
rambling grounds. Theres no beach, but
by way of compensation there is a private
lagoon and three swimming pools.
Plantation Bay Resort & Spa (%340 5900/86,
1800 1888 7788; www.plantationbay.com; Marigandon; d
from US$175) This spectacularly designed pri-
vate paradise is sited on a 3.5-hectare artificial saltwater lagoon, big enough to house
living coral ponds, waterfalls, beaches and
a floating restaurant. Youll need to make
use of the hotels 24-hour golf-cart service
to get around the vast grounds, where the
options for indulgence range from fishing
to volleyball to archery lessons.
Shangri-Las Mactan Island Resort (%231 0288;
www.shangri-la.com; d from US$220, presidential suite
US$1900; s) A vast holiday camp for honey-
mooners, conferencers, package tourists and

the super-rich, this is the last word in self-
contained, luxury resort living. Enticements

include a 350m private beach cove, six-hole
golf course, multilevel swimming pool, shopping arcade, and the famous grande buffet.
Sutukil (Manna STK; %340 6448; Mactan Shrine;
seafood at market price; h11am-10pm) This place
offers the freshest seafood on the island in
quaint waterfront surroundings. At the entrance, a market stall offers you the days
catch; you choose what youd like and how
youd like it, then take a seat and wait for
your meal to arrive. The cooking fee ranges
from P180 to P300. Lapu-lapu (grouper)
goes for P380 per kilo, and live/dead lobster
for P1200/2500 per kilo.
GETTING THERE & AROUND
Jeepneys run all day to Cebu City from

Lapu-Lapu (P10). The going rate by taxi
from Cebu City to Lapu-Lapu or the airport
is P200 to the eastern beach resorts youll
pay around P300. Be prepared for a slow
crawl through heavy traffic.
See p238 for information about flights to
and from Mactan Island.
Lapu-Lapu proper (eg ML Quezon Hwy)
is serviced by jeepneys; a typical trip costs
P5. Local taxis run the length and breadth
of the island.
Olango Island
%032 / pop 3450
The story of Olango Island is a familiar

one in the Philippines: a fragile and diverse
ecosystem under very enormous pressure
from human predation. Combining saltflats, mangroves and coral reefs, it would
be an ecotourism dream except that it is
facing an uphill battle for its existence.
Much of the reef on the western side of
Olango was buried by a typhoon in 1993.
Dynamite and cyanide fishing never gave it
a chance to regenerate. The eastern side of
the reef is in a better state, although currents
make it dangerous for inexperienced divers.
Included in the province of Olango
Island is the marine sanctuary off neighbouring Hilotongan Island (%0916 944 7941, 496
0020; admission P50). Around the outskirts of
the sanctuary the reefs are endangered by
fishing fleets, with their dynamite, cyanide
and more recently chlorine. However,
the sanctuary itself is now well protected,
thanks in part to money collected from a
diving fee of P100 per person. Note that you
cannot visit Hilotongan directly without a

ticket. These are available at the Municipal
Hall in Cordova on Mactan Island and at
most accredited dive centres.
South of Hilotongan, the private resort
island of Nalusuan has arguably the bestpreserved coral in the Olango Reef. Those
not staying at the islands resort (below) are
charged P100 to dive Nalusuans reef, which
goes towards its ongoing conservation. Dive
centres on Mactan can arrange trips.
The Olango Island Wildlife Sanctuary (%0920
554 2848; San Vincente, Bas Coral, Olango Island; admission
P100) takes in 1030 hectares of sandflats and
mangroves on Olangos southern shores. This

is a vital refuelling depot for around 50,000
birds of 47 species (including the endangered
Chinese egret Egretta eulophotes and Asiatic
dowitcher Limnodromus semipalmatus) on
the east-Asian migratory route to Australia.
The birds, who prefer Olango to neighbouring islands because of the abundant food and
ideal nesting sites, arrive in late September
and leave in early March, but the best times
for twitchers is between November and February. Tragically, you may also encounter
organised hunting parties, which are imperilling shorebird populations.
C E B U A r o u n d C e b u C i t y 245
6am to 6pm. From Santa Rosa, a tricycle to

the bird sanctuary should cost around P20,
although tourists are often charged more.
Toledo
%032 / pop 141,174
The port city of Toledo, due west of Cebu

City, presents a cheap and quick way to
travel between Cebu and San Carlos, Negros.
Once home to one of Asias copper-mining
giants, and currently home to a massive coal
and oil power plant, this nondescript little
city has little to offer the traveller. Its choice
of food and accommodation is extremely
limited, but with frequent ferry services noone should be forced to stay the night.
SLEEPING & EATING
So you got stuck in Toledo. How did you

manage that? Anyway, shelter is at hand at
Aleus Lodge (%322 5672; Poloyapoy St; r with fan &
shared bathroom P250, r with air-con, cable TV & private
bathroom P600), which is above a general store
in a relatively quiet neighbourhood. It has

small, shabby budget rooms, and slightly
better standard rooms. It is about 1.5km
from the pier (P6 by tricycle).
Theres no shortage of bakeries and fruit
stalls next to the pier.
SLEEPING
Wildlife Sanctuary Office (%0920 554 2848; San Vincente) Tents and sleeping bags (P100 each)
are available for rent here. Guests will have
to bring their own food and water.
Nalusuan Island Resort & Marine Sanctuary
(% 492 4388; www.nalusuanisland.com; cottage from
US$35) On a tiny island in the southern
reaches of the Olango Reef, a private marine

sanctuary has achieved the miraculous and
preserved a stunning coral outcrop. This
wonderfully relaxed island resort has seven
native-style cottages on stilts, each furnished with a fan, bathtub and freshwater
shower. There is an open-air restaurant
specialising in freshly (and responsibly)
caught fish, and activities include islandhopping, diving and kayaking. The resort
can arrange airport transfers.
Most resorts on Mactan will organise a day

trip to Olango for you, or you can make your
own way from Angasil pier, just south of the
Shangri-La resort. Boats bound for Santa
Rosa (P12, 30 minutes) depart hourly from
Three passenger services ply the Toledo

San Carlos route. There are two fastcraft:
the MV Weesam (%412 9562), with five daily
services from 7am to 5pm (P150, 35 minutes); and New Danilo Lines (%322 6387), with
three services from 7.30am to 6pm (P100,
45 minutes). The last fastcraft from San
Carlos leave at 3pm and 3.30pm, respectively. The car ferry MV Lite 2 (%322 6387)
has three services at 7.30am, 1pm and 6pm
(P75, 1 hours) the last service from San
Carlos departs at 3.30pm.
Buses run every hour or so over the rough
mountain road between Cebu South bus station and the Toledo bus terminal (P40, 2
hours). The first bus heads off around 5am,
the last at around 4pm. From the terminal
its a P5 tricycle ride to the pier.
If youre headed to Moalboal, your choices
are to catch a v-hire (a local van/minibus)
from the bus terminal or to charter a taxi.
The trip takes at least two hours and will
cost you around P1200 and after youve
experienced the roads youll know why.
T H E V I S AYA S
T H E V I S AYA S
244 C E B U A r o u n d C e b u C i t y
NORTH OF CEBU CITY

Cebus northeast has the most heavily developed coastline on the island. The biggest metropolises are Danao, one of Cebus
bigger cities, and Bogo, the main market
town in northern Cebu. With their mountain backdrop, the towns and cities along
the highway present some impressive vistas.
But other than that, most offer little incentive to get off the bus.
The remote, tropical idylls of Malapascua
and Bantayan, off the northern tip of Cebu,
are another matter entirely. These two islands have been enticing visitors for years
with glorious white-sand beaches, superb
diving (off Malapascua) and their laid-back,
island lifestyles. The question is how much
longer they will remain laid-back and remote
(by which we mean challenging to get to),
and when progress will catch them up.
For buses heading north, see p239.
beach resorts, it is incredibly popular with

family groups.
Intosan Resort (%200 3476; r from P900; s) If
Elsalvador is full, Intosan is a short tricycle
ride from town (P5). Basic rooms are good
value, with double bed, cable TV, hot water
and a small balcony.
Bread and supplies can be bought at the
old market on Rizal St, two blocks up from,
and parallel to, the highway. In the same
street, youll also find a number of shabby
guesthouses (standard r around P250).
plaza, on P Rodriguez St (past the Jollibee),

there is a Metrobank with an ATM. This is
also your last chance to check your email at a
reasonable price: Cool Zone Internet (GL Morente;
per hr P30), west of the plaza, has a broadband
connection.
SLEEPING
Buses running between Cebu City and the

far north pass through the city of Danao
(P30, 50 minutes).
Pumpboats leave all morning from the
Danao port (in front of the church) for various townships on the Camotes Islands (for
details, see p258).
Bogo Pension House (%434 8469; Pandan Heights;

d P700; as) On a residential street a fiveminute trip from the bus terminal (P10 by
tricycle), this quiet and unassuming business hotel has cheerful rooms, a swimming
pool and spa, bar and restaurant.
Nailon Beach Resort (%253 1097; r from P1250;
as) Just to the east of Bogo proper, this
friendly, native-style place sits at the end
of a prominent point and has comfy rooms
with balcony, cable TV and hot-water bathroom. Nailon is a 10-minute tricycle ride
from the bus terminal (P15).
Danao
Sogod
%032 / pop 98,781
%032 / pop 27,432
When approached by sea, Danao shows its

best profile. Its centrepiece, directly opposite the pier and visible far out to sea, is one
of the finest church buildings in Cebu. The
gracious, coral-stone St Tomas de Villanueva
Church was built in 1755 and restored from
near ruin in 1981. The austerely beautiful marble interior, with its high, white,
vaulted ceiling, is well worth a look.
The town backs onto a scenic mountain
range which includes the Danasan Plateau,
one of the few places on the island from
where you can view both sides of the channel. A hubel-hubel will take you on the
40km journey (P200) or you can take the
jeepney (P30), but make sure you dont miss
the last jeepney returning in the afternoon.
Between the church and the mountains,
theres not a lot else to see.
The gently curving coastline of Sogod is

about 70km north of Cebu City. Its a quiet
town with attractive beaches where the fishing boats pull in. On the southern outskirts of
town youll find the Vima Beach Resort, which
rents out picnic shelters (P30) along a pleasant, palm-shaded stretch of white sand.
About 5km north of Sogod is the 5-star
Alegre Beach Resort (% 231 1198; www.alegre
beachresort.com; cabins from US$270) the place that
put Sogod on the international tourist map.
Alegre is high-end and high security. If you
manage to get inside, the leafy grounds include a huge swimming pool, a dive centre,
a library, a putting green and a tennis court.
The resort fronts a spectacular, private
beach cove with a house reef.
Buses pass through Sogod from Cebu
City (P35, 1 to two hours) throughout
the day.
A bus from Cebu City to Bogo will cost you

P60 and take 2 to three hours.
If youre making the dash for Malapascua,
you are about 1 hours from Maya, where
the last boat for the island leaves around
6pm (for details, see p253). Catch a bus to
Daan Bantayan (P30, one hour) and a hubelhubel to Maya pier (P30, 20 minutes).
For Hagnaya gateway to Bantayan Island you must take a tricycle (P40, 20
minutes). The last boat from Hagnaya
leaves at 6.30pm (for details, see p249).
SLEEPING & EATING
You really only want to stay in Danao if its

getting too late to move on.
Elsalvador Beach Resort (%200 4494; National
Hwy; d with cold/hot water from P850/950, d with air-con
& hot water from P1050; s) On the main road at
the southern end of town, this is the best

place to stay. Motel-style rooms are comfy
enough, but the main attraction is the large
grounds with two pools (big and little) and
a fake white-sand beach. The Jollibee of
Bogo
%032 / pop 63,869
The road north from Sogod heads inland

through lush mountains before returning
to the sea to meet up with the market town
of Bogo.
INFORMATION
If youre heading north, this is your last

chance to do your banking. North of the
Daan Bantayan & Maya
C E B U N o r t h o f C e b u C i t y 247
ming pool, pool table and a pretty average

kitchen. Take the east road at the T-junction
1km back from the pier. A hubel-hubel from
Maya proper will cost you P20.
As well as boats to Malapascua (see p253),

there are pumpboat services to San Isidro,
Leyte (P100, three hours, 10am daily) and Esperanza, Masbate (P200, 2 hours, 10.30am
Monday, Wednesday and Saturday).
At the time of writing, there were plans
to build a car-ferry pier at Maya. When and
if this will happen we dont know.
Bantayan Island
%032 / pop 68,125
People come to the relaxed, bucolic little

town of Santa Fe, on the southern coast of
Bantayan Island, for its exquisite white-sand
beaches and low-key resorts. For 51 weeks of
the year, the town is a sleepy retreat, where
the worst that can happen is that youre
caught in a brownout without a torch.
And then theres Holy Week
About 10km west of Santa Fe (P10 by tricycle or jeepney) is Bantayan Islands busy
administrative centre, Bantayan town. The
town centres on a large plaza, close to which
is a market, a pier (from where the boats for
Negros leave) and the care-worn, coral-stone
Peter & Paul Church which every Easter is the
focus of religious processions that attracts
the faithful from all over the Philippines. The
tourist influx is so great that people sleep on
the beaches, locals rent out their houses, and
hotel prices double and treble.
%032 / pop 69,336
About 130km north of Cebu City, in the

thick of sugarcane country, youll reach the
drab town of Daan Bantayan. This is where
the bus terminates. From Daan Bantayan,
its a 20-minute hubel-hubel ride (P30) to
Maya, along a bad road.
If you are heading to Malapascua and
miss the last boat, you can stay at Abba Family Lodge (%437 2525; d with fan & shared bathroom
P350), 100m from the Maya pier. Its homely
enough, even if it does get a lot of noise from
the street. If the Abba Family dont do it for
you, there are more salubrious digs a little
out of town at Monsanto Resort (Azryth Garden Resort; %437 0103; s/tw with fan P300/450, s/tw with air-con
from P500/900; s). A rambling timber building
set in farmland, it has a salt-water swim-
INFORMATION
There is an Aboitiz ticket office and an Internet

caf (h8am-noon & 2-8pm Mon-Fri, 1-6pm Sat; per hr
P30) on the highway in the Santa Fe town
centre.
Make sure you bring enough money to
last, as there are no ATMs and nowhere on
the island to change money.
ACTIVITIES
There is no decent snorkelling around Bantayan Island, although you can charter a
boat to Virgin Island (P700 for four people),
which has coral outcrops. Most resorts rent
snorkel sets for around P200 a day.
In addition to sleeping and reading, a
popular activity is exploring Bantayans
T H E V I S AYA S
T H E V I S AYA S
246 C E B U N o r t h o f C e b u C i t y
quiet, shady roads. Most resorts can organise a bicycle for P150 per day, or a motorcycle from P250.
SLEEPING
The resorts of Santa Fe are strung along the

beach, north and south of the pier (which
is a little north of the town proper). Weve
ordered our listings from north to south.
St Bernard Beach Resort (%0917 963 6162; www
.bantayan.dk; s with shared bathroom P350, cottage with private bathroom P500-900, family cottage P1200) On a nar-
row lot in the middle of Ocoy village, about

1km north of Santa Fe pier, St Bernard has
wonderfully eccentric, circular thatchedroofed cottages with polished wood, throw
rugs and lace curtains. Theres not much of
a beach and the roosters are pretty close for
comfort, but it will appeal to those looking for
something genuine and homely. The view
across to Hilantaga-an Island is superb.
Joy Beach Resort (%438 5340; cottage with private
bathroom P500) A little out of town, this is the
Robinson Crusoe option. Four very simple and rudimentary cottages and a rickety
treehouse are right smack on a lovely stretch
of beach. Its owned by a delightful elderly
couple wholl make you feel very welcome.
Hoyohoy Villas (%438 9223; www.hoyohoyvillas
.com; apartments P5000-6000; a) Six rice granary
inspired stilt houses combine traditional
design principals, a Japanese aesthetic,
antique furnishings and modern comforts.
This place was only getting off the ground
when we were researching (a pool was still
BANTAYAN ISLAND
0
0
5 km
3 miles
Madridejos
Kaongkod
San
Agustin
Tabagak
VISAYAN
SEA
Atop-Atop
Kabak
Virgin
Island
Patao
Pou-Pou
Island
Silion
To Sagay;
Cadiz (Negros)
Mojon
Bantayan
Sulangan
Bantayan Island
Hilantaga-an
Island
Cabaliod
Ocoy
Ogtong
Cave
Alice
Beach
Talisay
Santa Fe
Paradise Sugar
Beach Beach
To
Hagnaya;
Cebu City
in the works) but when it does it will be

Bantayans premier resort. The location
could be better the beach feels a little close
to the pier but the upside is its only a fiveminute walk to the White Sands restaurant.
The room tariff includes breakfast.
Marlin Beach Resort (%438 9093, 0917 364 7027;
www.marlin-bantayan.com; r with fan/air-con P1300/2200)
On the town outskirts, Marlin has a terrific location, a great stretch of sand and luxe rooms,
but lacks real character. Air-con rooms have
cable TV and a seaview balcony.
Kota Beach (%419 6135; kota@cebu.i-next.com;
r with fan/air-con P700/1000, cottages with fan/air-con
P1200/2000; a) This is a mixed bag. Rooms
as opposed to cottages are in a drab, viewless multistorey block. Cottages are plain
but well kept: the front row have air-con and
beach views, while the back row are set in
a lush, green garden. The restaurant serves
reasonable Filipino dishes from P120.
Budyong Beach Resort (%438 5700; www.bud
yong.com; cottages with fan/air-con P700/1300) Occupying a prime location right on the beach
in town, Budyong has pleasant nipa huts
(with bathrooms) under palm trees on the
sand, with balconies facing the water. Its
very popular with local tourists and groups,
so be sure to book ahead.
Yooneek Beach Resort (%438 9124; d from P1200;
a) Next to Budyong, this flash newcomer
has two blocks of motel-like rooms with coldwater bathrooms, and balconies that face the
opposite block rather than the beach.
Sugar Beach Resort (cottage with bathroom & fan
P650) Basic beach shacks in the shade, set back
from the beach on a vast allotment. There is
no restaurant, but the woman minding the
huts will cook up your meals for a fee.
Otong Cave Resort (%438 0165; cottage with fan/
air-con P1450/2900; nonguests admission P50; as) A
semi-exclusive resort, with a guard on the
gate and a high perimeter fence. The crowdpuller here is Otong Cave, a small subterranean cave with freshwater bathing. Standard
cottages vary in size, but all are well appointed and have a hot-water bathroom.
The air-con rooms have sea views. The ambience is slightly diminished by a rubbish
heap in clear view of the restaurant.
Fairview Resort (%0919 612 8459; r with shared
the gregarious. The value proposition here

is great views, cheap, super-sized rooms
and free use of a motorbike. A tricycle from
the pier will cost around P50.
EATING
Most of Santa Fes restaurants, with the

notable exception of White Sands (see the
boxed text, right), are in the town centre.
Balikbayan Restaurant (A Batobalonos St; meals
from P120; h9am-late) Probably the best food
in the town centre at the best prices, Balikbayan has a good range of salads, pasta and
pizza, and cosy booths for dining.
Marisquera O Portuguese Bar & Restaurant
(meals P150-250; h10am-late) On the main street
opposite Blue Ice, this is a cheery restobar
decked out with Christmas lights and flags.
Unfortunately the food does not quite live
up to the ambience.
Blue Ice (meals from P180; h9am-late) Main
streets other restobar, Scandinavian-owned
Blue Ice has decent seafood and a pleasant,
shaded courtyard for drinking.
For buses from Cebu City to Hagnaya, see

p239.
An overnight ferry between Cebu City
and Santa Fe departs at 9pm two nights a
week from both towns (P175, nine hours).
Schedules change so ring ahead for dates.
Contact Palacio Shipping Lines (%255 4538, 253
7700; cnr Mabini & Zulueta Sts; boats depart Cebu City at
Pier 1) in Cebu City.
Island Shipping ferries depart Hagnaya

for Santa Fe six times daily (P100, one
hour, 6.30am to 6.30pm). Aznar Fastcraft
has three daily crossings (P130, 30 minutes,
8.30am, 11am and 3.30pm).
The last boat from Santa Fe to Hagnaya
departs at 3.30pm.
From Bantayan town, a ferry bound
for Cadiz on Negros departs every second
morning at 10am (P150, four hours). On alternate mornings, a smaller pumpboat sails
for Sagay on Negros (P150, two hours). Purchase tickets from Island Shipping (%352 5103,
h7am-5pm) to the right of the Town Hall in
Bantayan town, just before the pier.
bathroom P200, cottage with fan/air-con P400/600; s)
Malapascua Island
Known by locals as Far View because it sits

inland, on a hill, in the southern fringes of
town, this is not a place for beach lovers or
This little island off Cebus northern tip

has been growing steadily more famous
%032 / pop 3000
THE AUTHORS CHOICE

White Sands (breakfast & lunch from P200,
dinner from P500; h 7.30am-2pm & 6-11pm)

About 250m north of the pier, in a nativestyle bamboo lot on the beach, is a dining
experience straight out of the imagination.
The curious story of how a world-class bistro got washed up in a remote corner of the
Philippines is something youll have to ask
its owner. But somehow, every day, French
bon vivant Robert manages to conjure
up an la carte miracle that can include,
among other things: scallops, prawns,
crabs, lobster, marlin, grouper, French pastries, crepes, wood-fired pizza, handmade
pasta, freshly baked bread, fine wines and
espresso coffee. Perhaps the best thing is
not to ask how it got there, but just enjoy.
There is only one proviso: dont mind the
wait great food takes time.
over the years for its long, white beaches,

great food and low-key approach to tourism. There are, or were at the time of writing, no cars or paved roads on the island,
only a network of walking tracks. These
tracks wind past such humble attractions
as the waterside town cemetery, with its sunbleached graves, the lighthouse on the islands northwest, and the 12m-high lookout
up near Los Bamboos, which some brave/
foolhardy souls treat as a cliff jump.
Divers are spoilt with three wreck dives, the
marine sanctuary of Gato Island a famous
sea-snake breeding ground and almost
daily appearances of the otherwise rarely
sighted thresher shark off Monad Shoal.
The simple villages of Malapascua blend
seamlessly with the resorts and are a big factor in the islands charm. The people of the
towns are almost invariably friendly and
welcoming. A popular pastime among visitors is to head down to the basketball court
in the main town of Logon, to take part in
one of the frequent, informal tournaments
that blend local and foreign talent.
It would seem that Malapascua offers
everything that the discerning beach bum
could wish for. But of course nothing is ever
that simple.
The marine environment, including Gato
Island, faces the usual challenges of this region first and foremost, dynamite fishing.
T H E V I S AYA S
T H E V I S AYA S
Malapascua Island
ORIENTATION
MALAPASCUA
ISLAND
0
0
500 m
0.3 miles
11
4
Langub
Guimbitayan
Bool
3
Bakhan
Mangrove
Bay
Kabatangan
14
Pasil
Logon
Poblacion
Beach
22
10 18
Logon
Beach
There are two main beaches on Malapascua: both are located at the southern end
of the island, on the southern and western flanks of the main town of Logon, and
both have beautiful, long stretches of white
sand. Bounty Beach is where the majority of
resorts and dive centres are located; Poblacion Beach has only one resort and a couple
of restobars. A couple of resorts occupy the
rocky coves between the two beaches. The
lack of roads and transport has hitherto
kept the northern half of the island remote
and relatively untouristed.
19 21
20
12
Indonacion
6 8
Bounty
Beach
13
16 15 9
17
Tawigon
To Maya
(Boat Route)
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

Cemetery....................1 A3
Divelink.......................2 B3
Exotic Divers............(see 13)
Lighthouse...................3 A1
Lookout.......................4 A1
Mini-Golf Course.........5 B3
Philippine Island
Divers..................(see 12)
Scuba-do.................(see 18)
Sea Explorers...............6 B3
Thresher Shark
Divers..................(see 15)
Logon Beach Resort...10

Los Bamboos.............11
Malapascua Bluewater
Resort....................12
Malapascua Exotic Dive
& Beach Resort.......13
Mangrove Oriental....14
Sunset Resort.............15
Sunsplash Resort........16
Tropical Beach
Resort...................17
White Sands
Bungalows.............18
SLEEPING
Blue Corals Resort.......7 A3
Cocobana Beach
Resort......................8 B3
Hipocampus Beach
Resort......................9 B3
EATING
Ging-Ging's Garden
Restaurant.............19
La Dolce Vita.............20
La Isla Bonita.............21
Maldito..................... 22
A3
A1
B3
B3
A2
B3
B3
B3
A3
B2
A3
B2
A3
Despite protestations from local government that they are on top of the problem,
divers report that on many dives they can
still hear the sound of blasting. To combat
the problem at Gato Island, local dive centres successfully lobbied the government to
implement full-time patrols of the marine
sanctuary. These patrols are paid for by a
fee levied on divers of P100 per dive.
The preservation of the island environment is another matter. Ironically, where
the dive centres have continually accused
local government of not doing enough
to halt destruction of the corals, when it
comes to preserving the beaches, its the
governments turn to put the heat on local
business (see the boxed text, opposite).
INFORMATION
At the time of research, the islands electricity was supplied by a diesel-powered generator. It operated from 5.30pm to 11.30pm
(sometimes later), although some resorts,
such as Cocobana, Blue Corals, Malapascua
Bluewater Resort and Malapascua Exotic
Island Dive Resort, had their own (noisy)
generators.
Landline telephones as opposed to mobiles only operated when the generator
was on.
Malditos and Malapascua Exotic Island
Dive Resort have slow and unreliable Internet (per hr P70).
ACTIVITIES
About 200m behind Sunsplash Resort in

the middle of Logon village is a minigolf
course (P100; h9am-8pm) and bar.
Diving
The most popular dive off Malapascua is

Monad Shoal; here you can see the thresher
sharks. The plateau where the sharks congregate is at 25m depth, 15 minutes by pumpboat from Bounty Beach, and the best time
for sightings is early morning. Be warned
though, visibility can sometimes be poor
and sightings are not guaranteed.
Dynamiting has mainly destroyed the
closer reefs, but macro-photographers will
love the area around Gato Island, a marine
sanctuary and sea snake breeding ground
(from February to September). There are
also three wreck dives in the area.
There are a handful of dive centres on
the island, most offering standard rates
one dive US$20, equipment rental US$5
and open-water diving certificate US$300.
STORM OF CONTROVERSY: MALAPASCUA REMADE

A perfect storm make that a typhoon of business, development and politics is sweeping over
Malapascua. The tiny island, which until recently was literally not even on the (municipal) map,
has been attracting the attention of some big players and change is in the wind.
Two of the main curbs to development on Malapascua have always been its costly and inadequate power supply, and the lack of potable water. In 2005, a private consortium specialising in
rural electrification and water supply tabled a plan that might have seen both issues redressed
by early 2006. Among other things, it would have made possible an international standard of
accommodation previously unknown to Malapascua. Rumour had it that a big, five-star Korean
resort was in the wings. As we went to print, though, the electrification consortiums plans were
scuppered by local politicians. For the conceivable future, noisy generators and brackish water
are to remain a fact of life in Malapascua.
Another obstacle to Malapascua being labelled the new Boracay the holy grail of Philippines tourism is its transport infrastructure, or lack of it. The local government is planning to
address the problem in a couple of ways. The first of these is that Malapascua is set to get its
first pier. Currently the only service to the island is by way of small pumpboats that get dragged
up onto the sand, meaning that visitors frequently must wade ashore. The new pier would enable ferries and even fastcraft to service the island, with no inconvenience and the potential to
greatly increase tourist volume.
In tandem with the new pier, a 4m-wide paved road is proposed for the length of the island.
However, for the road to be built a path must be cleared. In 2005, the mayor tried to achieve
this through the enforcement of a salvage zone, a 30m no-go zone thats measured from the
high tide mark. Any buildings that were found to be occupying the zone after October 2005 were
threatened with demolition. Practically every beach-front business in Malapascua was affected.
Not a single owner was offered compensation. In the lead-up to the October 2005 deadline,
some businesses began to wind down, others were put up for sale. Many had not had their
business permits renewed and all were facing an uncertain future. October came and went: the
demolitions failed to occur, but the uncertainty dragged on.
Its supposed to be about protecting the beach, but where people are crying foul is that
one of the few commercial properties not to be affected is the mayors, and shes in charge of
enforcing the zone. No-one should be surprised, though its not unusual in the Philippines for
business and politics to intersect like this.
The die has been cast. How it will all work out remains to be seen, though as partisans of
independent travel, history gives us little cause to be optimistic. Along with the thresher shark
and the sea snake, the Malapascuan Beachus bumus may well be the next species to see its
habitat wiped out.
A few of the bigger, more established dive

centres are Sea Explorers (www.sea-explorers
.com; %Cebu City 234 0248, Malapascua 0919 447 9030),
Philippine Island Divers (%0917 320 1940; www
.boholdivers.com) and Exotic Divers (Malapascua Exotic
Island Dive Resort). There is plenty of scope to
shop around once youre on the island. Further options include Divelink (%0927 247 0723;
www.divelinkcebu.com), Scuba-do (%0927 318 7471;
White Sands Bungalows) and Thresher Shark Divers
(%0927 612 3359; www.malapascua-diving.com).
Island Hopping
Its easy to organise boat trips around the

islands. If you inquire among the fishermen
at Tawigon village, for about P400 you can

charter a boat for a half day to take you
around Malapascua.
Charter boats can take you to nearby Carnassa (one hour) and Calangaman (two hours)
islands, starting from P2000 for full-day hire.
Local identity Captain Geoff organises island day trips (P500 per person) that include
a barbecue lunch, two drinks and snorkelling. He can usually be found around White
Sands or Cocobana rustling up patrons. Carnassa is said to be the more special of the
two islands. If you have any doubts about
the weather think twice about heading out to
Calangaman, as it can be a rough trip.
T H E V I S AYA S
T H E V I S AYA S
SLEEPING
Business drops right off during the low

season, and rates usually dip around 50%.
Unless otherwise stated, all rooms have fan
and private cold-water bathroom.
If the salvage zone (see the boxed text,
p251) ever comes into effect, all beachfront
businesses will be forced to demolish the
front portion of their premises: the front
row of cottages, the beachfront dining area
and so on. As we went to print, with the
zone yet to come into effect, the various
owners were considering their options:
some were planning to soldier on, some
were considering quitting the island. A
number of businesses may well have closed
by the time you read this. The only thing for
certain is continued uncertainty.
Logon Beach Resort (%0920 553 9847; huts P1000)
In a secluded location high on a rocky point
overlooking a private cove, this is an ideal
honeymooners resort. Balconied huts face
the sunset and have wonderful views. To get
to the resort, find the beach in front of White
Sands, turn left and follow the signs to Logon
Beach Resort that take you up the hill.
Blue Corals Resort (%0927 494 7161; d P1500)
An ugly slab of concrete laid over the famous old rock lookout at the western end
of Bounty Beach. Its a tiled monster with
bright flashing lights that is completely out
of sympathy with its surroundings, but it
does have large rooms with 180-degree
views over the water. It could be a foretaste
of things to come.
THE AUTHORS CHOICE
White Sands Bungalows (%0927 318 7471;
www.filippinerne.dk; s/d huts P400/500) The sole
resort on the quiet strip of sand that is
Poblacion Beach, White Sands in many
ways represents what we like best about
Malapascua, and what it stands to lose by
ruthless development. It consists of 10 simple nipa huts with trees at the back and
beach at the front. Presided over by gregarious Danish owner Kurt (I never meant to
make a resort!), it has that beach campfire
ambience that just makes you want to sit
up all night swapping yarns. As we went to
print, White Sands huts were directly in line
with the proposed new road, and there was
a For Sale sign out the front.
Malapascua Bluewater Resort (% 0927 490

9011, 437 1053; janetmalapascua@hotmail.com; r with fan
P1000, cottage with air-con P2500) Situated in a large
lot stretching a long way back, Bluewater
Resort has stale-smelling cottages on the
beach and generator-infused cheaper rooms
out the back. It has 24-hour electricity.
Cocobana Beach Resort (%0927 391 3900; www
.cocobana.ch; garden cottage d P1000-1300, beach cottage
d P1550) Right smack in the middle of Bounty
Beach, Malapascuas original (and still biggest) resort runs like a well-oiled machine.
It has comfy cottages, 24-hour electricity,
a bar and a decent restaurant. Breakfast is
included with the room. Accommodationdive packages are available through Sea Explorers (p250).
Hippocampus Beach Resort (formerly Loidas Beach
Club; %437 1030, 0927 800 8940; www.hippocampus
-online.com; r/cottage P800) Hippocampus has
a rather crowded conglomeration of cottages just off the beach as well as 2nd-storey
rooms. Out the front is a little bar with
a lovely pergola thats a perfect place for
watching the boats come in.
Malapascua Exotic Dive & Beach Resort (%437
0983, 0916 394 5881; www.malapascua.net; r with fan &
shared bathroom P1200, r with air-con & private bathroom
from P2400) Located on the quiet easterly beach,
Exotic is very much a self-contained resort,

and as luxurious as it gets on Malapascua.
It houses the oldest and probably the best
dive centre on the island (with Malapascuas
only technical diving facilities), a beachfront
restobar and a 24-hour generator. Accommodation-dive packages are available.
Mangrove Oriental (%0916 218 5534; travel@
malapascuaisland.com; cottage with fan P1500, cottage with
air-con & hot water P2800) A handful of luxurious,
Mediterranean-style cottages spaced out

on a lovely terraced hillside. The hillside
is planted with a lush, tropical garden and
affords good views over the water. On one
side of the property is a modest beach, on
the other is a tiny lagoon of mangrove trees.
The kitchen does full-course set dinners for
around P400; breakfast is included with the
room. Signposts for this secluded resort are
at the northern end of Logon village, from
where its about 10 minutes walk.
Los Bamboos (%Cebu City 253 2937; www.los-bam
boos.com; cottage from P900) Set apart from the rest
of the island community some find it a bit
isolated this simple, cheerful, largely bamboo resort is on a promontory on the north-
ern tip of the island. Transfer from Cebu

City is P7000 (maximum seven people).
First and foremost a restobar, Sunsplash
Resort (%0927 274 1756; www.sunsplash.info; d with
fan/air-con P2000/2500) is also into the hotel
business. Comfy, Spanish missionstyle
rooms are back from the beach and are a
bit pricey as such, but are not a bad option
if you like your comforts and happen to be
hard up for accommodation. Rooms have
TV and hot water.
The no-frills options Tropical Beach Resort
(%0918 774 2686; cottage P600) and Sunset Resort
(%0919 322 9102; cottage P700) both have a scattering of plain cottages on Bounty Beach
that are favoured by Cebuano families on
vacation.
EATING & DRINKING
La Isla Bonita (meals P180-250, wine by the glass P75;

h8am-2pm & 6-11pm) We were saddened to
hear, before we went to print, of the untimely death of manager Uwe. But we are
heartened to know that his legacy lives on,
with the food here still rated the best on
the island. In the humble surroundings of
Logon village, suave little La Isla Bonita
serves up a range of fresh, quality ingredients cooked in a variety of styles, but always
with care. Check out the menu board during
the day and order meals ahead of time.
Ging-Gings Garden Restaurant (meals P60-90)
Set in a pretty garden in Logon village,
Ging-Gings offers the very best economy
dining on the island. The pancakes (P40)
are some the best weve had. For dinners,
book meals ahead so that fresh ingredients
can be bought.
Maldito (% 425 2274) Management announced its temporary closure in 2005, but
with its powerful backers few doubt that
Malditos will return in some form after
Malapascua gets its makeover. In its current
incarnation, it is a loungy, tropical-style
restobar the size of a barn that sticks to the
tried-and-true formula of pizza, beer and
shooters, loud music, sports telecasts, pool
tables and skimpily dressed bar staff.
Sunsplash Resort (%0927 274 1756; meals P180250; h7am-late) Difficult to categorise because
it also has rooms, Sunsplash is nevertheless a restobar first, resort second. The bar,
with its pool table, film nights, comely staff
and drink for your country league table,
vies with Maldito as the islands favourite
C E B U S o u t h o f C e b u C i t y 253
nightspot, but its the food particularly

the flavoursome Mexican selection that
keeps most patrons coming back.
There are plans to build a pier in Malapascua on the point to the south of White
Sands. There are also plans to built a new
pier at Maya to accommodate car ferries.
Ground breaking for both was supposed to
begin in late 2005, but by early 2006 had not
yet commenced.
For now, the only transport to the island
is via pumpboat from Maya (P40 plus P5 per
kilo of luggage, 30 minutes). The boat leaves
whenever its full, which is usually, but not
always, hourly. To avoid a long wait you can
hire a boat for a one-way trip at any time of
the day (P700) and if you arrive after 5pm,
chances are youll have to do this. If the tide
is low at Maya, the larger pumpboats cant
dock, and must ferry passengers to and from
shore using smaller craft (P20).
To travel between Malapascua and Bantayan, you have to hire a pumpboat and pay
special ride rates of around P2000.
Tabuelan
%032 / pop 5680
Isolated Tabuelan (ta-boi-lan), on Cebus

northwest coast, is a small town with a stunning natural harbour, some fish farms and
not much else. This is where you disembark
from the ferry from Escalante, Negros. Sailings from Tabuelan to Escalante (P120, 2
hours) are at 8am and 3.30pm, daily; sailings
from Escalante to Tabuelan are at 11am and
midnight. Buses to Cebu (via Sogod; P50,
four hours) are about 500m up the road
from the pier (around P10 by tricycle).
SOUTH OF CEBU CITY

For divers, the southwest coast of Cebu is
the place to be. From Moalboal, Cebus premier dive spot, all the way to Lilo-an there
is a clearly visible, vertical drop-off 30m out
from the shore. The road follows the coast
all the way, and the scenery is some of the
best in Cebu, with the dark blue band of
the coastal drop-off and the jagged, green
mountains of Negros always in view.
Down towards Lilo-an and Bato youll
pay a premium for food and supplies, as
the nearest major supply point in this part
of the world is Dumaguete, Negros.
T H E V I S AYA S
T H E V I S AYA S
On the east coast the diving ceases to be

an attraction, although the road takes you
through a handful of pretty, Spanish-era
towns and Mediterranean-looking scenes
of hills dipping into the sea.
For buses heading south, see p239.
Argao
%032 / pop 61,010
Such incongruous attractions as Spanish

colonial-era buildings and the endangered
wrinkle-lipped bat make Argao a little special, but its the brown-sand beaches of
Kawit, Mahawak and Lawis that draw most
of the guests.
Bamboo Paradise Beach Resort (%367 7271;
info@bamboo-philippines.de; s/d P600/950, apt P1000-1100;
a) Behind an unprepossessing faade on
the highway youll find this friendly place run

by expat couple Irene and Gnther. Inside
is a pleasant courtyard with garden furniture, potted plants, throw rugs and sea views.
Homely rooms have private bathroom. German dishes such as bratwurst with sauerkraut
cost around P150. Lawis beach, with reasonable swimming, is only 200m from here.
If youre in town for a few hours, drop
into Alex Cafe (JP Rizal St), 100m south of the
church in the town centre. Specialising in
torte and tsokolate (hot chocolate), it has
a quaint, bohemian ambience. The torte
(P20) is a regional speciality: cooked in a
brick oven, its chief ingredients are sugar,
pork lard and egg yolks. As they say of lead
paint: delicious but deadly!
Argao is about 65km from Cebu City,
and plenty of Ceres Bus Liner and other
buses stop here (nonair-con P55, two
hours) on the way to Bato (P60, 1 hours),
on Cebus southern tip.
Lite Shipping boats go from Argao to
Loon (P50, two hours), on Bohol, two or
three times daily. The last service is around
3pm. From the town proper, catch a Ceres
bus to the port (P10), which is about 8km
north of Argao.
Sumilon Island
%032
The waters around the tiny desert island of

Sumilon are slowly recuperating from years
of dynamite fishing. The southern half of
the island now contains a marine sanctuary. Visitors are charged a P10 entrance fee
and there is a further fee of P150 for diving.
The dive centres in Lilo-an (see below) can

arrange trips here.
The northern half of the island is occupied by a luxury resort. The Sumilon Blue
Water Island Resort (%232 5411; bluwater@mozcom
.com; s/d with full board P4000/6600; as) opened
for business in May 2005. The resorts half of
the island features two white-sand beaches
one big, one small a lagoon and a house
reef. Its 12 rooms have Japanese touches,
such as sliding screen doors, combined with
tasteful tropical detailing and five-star comforts. Shared balconies have sea views. Dining is international standard.
Casual visitors should note that the resort
charges a P500 entrance fee for nonguests
day-trippers and divers alike which entitles you to a set lunch (not to be sneezed
at) and free use of resort facilities including
bicycles and snorkelling gear.
The Sumilon Blue Water Island Resort
pier is 3km north of Mainit. There are signs
by the road to tell you when youre approaching it. A pumpboat makes frequent
service trips between the resort and the
pier. The crossing takes about 20 minutes
and there is no charge for the ride, but dont
get too excited if you are not a guest you
will still have to pay the P500 entrance fee.
The resort can also be approached from
Dumaguete, on Negros.
Lilo-an
%032 / pop 9261
Lilo-an is a nondescript little town with

wonderful views across the strait to Negros. In the waters off nearby Lilo-an Point,
manta rays are regular visitors between
February and June.
Accommodation is limited to two very
contrasting dive resorts in the village of
Santander, a P10 tricycle ride from the Liloan bus terminal (P50 from Bato). If youre
alighting from the boat from Negros, turn
left and stick to the coast the resorts are
a five-minute walk away.
Cebu Lilo-an Beach Resort (%0919 796 8682; d with
fan/air-con P800/1000) Informals one word for it.
Shambolic is another. We never worked out
who was the manager, but once we caught
the vibe (and located the fridge where they
keep the beer) we felt more at home. They
were asking US$15 to prepare dinner but we
nipped that in the bud by eating at Marine
Village. Dive trips are offered by the resort,
which works with a dive centre in Dumaguete, Scuba Ventures (%0917 314 3402).
Marine Village (%480 9040; yoko@marinevillage
.net; r with fan & shared bathroom US$10, r with air-con &
private bathroom from US$40) Take your shoes off at
Marine Village, a smooth-running, jump-toattention Japanese (but, they assured us, not
exclusively Japanese) resort that is as organised as Cebu Lilo-an Resort is disorganised.
And, oh, the food, the food The lunch
buffet was only P350. Local dive trips start at
US$44 (two dives) including equipment. Accommodation must be booked in advance.
Pumpboats depart Santander pier for
Sibulan on Negros (P40, 40 minutes, hourly
6am to 6pm). Ceres Liner and Sunrays
buses run all day to Cebu (P110, six hours)
and to Moalboal (P42, two hours).
Bato
%032 / pop 6319
Bato is notable only for having the main port

in southern Cebu. Fastcraft sail between Bato
and Tampi, on Negros (P47, 20 minutes)
every hour or so, from 5.30am to 7.30pm
daily. Buses bound for Cebu City (P76, four
hours) meet the boats from Negros. Buses to
Moalboal take about two hours (P42).
Samboan
that tourists mean when they say Moalboal is actually Panagsama Beach, a resort
village a short, bumpy tricycle ride west of
town (day/night P30/60).
Panagsama doesnt actually have a beach,
as such. Both typhoon damage and poor
coastal development have led to all the sand
being washed away. To make matters worse,
many resorts have built walls jutting out to
sea, making it impossible to walk beside the
water. Most of the resorts are on the waters
edge, with their rear balconies over the sea
and their front entrances facing a path that
runs the length of the village. The resorts
provide captivating views of the volcanic
plateaus of Negros across the Taon Strait.
A few kilometres north of Panagsama
Beach lies White Beach. Unlike Panagsama,
White Beach actually has a beach and not
a bad one at that. Popular with locals, it is
subject to the usual flux of domestic tourist
spots: relatively quiet during the week, overflowing on weekends and holidays. If you
want to see a true Philippine beach party,
drop by on any given Sunday. There is only
one resort worth the name here, otherwise
this is beach-shack and barbecue territory.
White Beach is an outrageously expensive
(P150) 20-minute tricycle ride from Panagsama; or a P40 tricycle ride from Moalboal.
%032 / pop 16,659
Halfway between Samboan and Bato, and

so close to Negros you feel you can touch
it, Fantasy Beach Resort (%479 4191, 0919 439
3013; dalahikan@yahoo.fr; d with shared/private bathroom
P1200/1500; s) is a well-run, Spanish mission
style resort set high on a hill overlooking the

sea. It has landscaped grounds with steps that
lead down to a small private beach. Rooms
are large and cheerful. Buffet meals cost
around P300. You can snorkel on the house
reef (no charge), take a free trip to nearby
waterfalls, or arrange a dolphin-watching tour
in Bais, Negros (P4500, maximum seven
people). Frequent Ceres Liner buses runs
through here on the way to Moalboal (P36,
1 hours) and Bato (P10, 20 minutes).
Moalboal
%032 / pop 23,402
Diving, drinking and dining (in that order)

top the list of activities in the dive colony of
Moalboal (hard to pronounce try mo-allbo-all). About 90km from Cebu City, Moalboal proper is on the main road the part
INFORMATION
Hotline Internet Caf has a fast connection

and charges P50 per hour.
SIGHTS
The 20m-high Kawasan Falls lies about 20km

south of Moalboal, inland from Badian. Take
a bus (P20) to Badian market and a tricycle
(P20) from there to the start of the trail.
From the trailhead to the falls its a pleasant
half-hour walk along the banks of a river. If
youre feeling adventurous, rent a mountain
bike instead from Planet Action (P300 per
day; for details see p256). Note that some
readers report being charged a P30 parking
fee by locals at the falls trailhead.
For something a bit more sedate, unwind
at the orchid farm (admission P30) just out of Moalboal (tricycle from Moalboal proper P30).
ACTIVITIES
Diving
The average price of a dive is US$20 to

US$25. An open-water certificate is around
T H E V I S AYA S
T H E V I S AYA S
254 C E B U S o u t h o f C e b u C i t y
Panagsama Beach
US$300. The snorkelling over the drop-off,

about 30m out, is excellent, and most resorts rent out snorkelling sets for around
P200 per day.
An often-choppy, 3km boat ride from
Moalboals Tongo Point diving spot, tiny
Pescador Island offers some of Cebus most
spectacular diving. With generally excellent visibility and depths of around 50m,
the islands waters are usually teeming with
fish no dive trip around here is complete
without a plunge at Pescador. Snorkelling is
possible too; the best spot is said to be on
the islands southern side. There is a reefconservation fee of P100 to dive at Savedra
Reef and Pescador.
Most of the dive centres on Moalboal
are affiliated with resorts. Top-quality dive/
accommodation packages can be had through
Savedra Dive Centre (www.savedra.com; Savedra Beach
Resort), Sea Explorers (www.sea-explorers.com; Loves
Lodge) and Visaya Divers (Quo Vadis Beach Resort). A
couple of dive centres that are unaffiliated
are Blue Abyss Dive Shop (%474 0031; www.blue
abyssdiving.com) and Neptune Diving (%474 0087;
www.neptunediving.com).
Other Activities
For active travellers who need a break from

diving, visit Johan at Planet Action (%474 0068;
www.action-philippines.com). He offers some of the
most exhilarating adventure tours in the
Visayas. Trips cater for beginners through
to advanced actioneers and include all equipment and meals. Some favourite trips are:
canyoning rappelling down 30m waterfalls;
horse riding view Bohol, Negros and Leyte
from 1000m-high mountain trails; caving;
and river climbing. Johan also extends his adventure range into Negros, including: a twoday hard hike to active volcano Mt Kanlaon
(all-inclusive US$125 per person); and a twoday hike to beautiful Lake Danao one of the
crater lakes of Twin Lakes (US$125).
SLEEPING
Panagsama Beach
The accommodation on Panagsama Beach

ranges from budget to midrange. The bigger resorts all have dive centres on site that
may be contacted through the resort.
Quo Vadis Beach Resort (%474 0020, 0919 825 6412;
www.moalboal.com; tw with fan & cold-water bathroom P750,
tw with air-con & hot-water bathroom P2000; s) Prob-
ably the best midrange option, Quo Vadis is
situated on a large lot with great beach access.

Spacious and well-appointed twin rooms and
cottages have queen-sized beds and rattan
furnishings. Top-of-the-range rooms have
sea views. On site is the Asian-European
Arista Restaurant (meals around P250) and
dive centre Visaya Divers.
Loves Lodge (%474 0140, 0920 867 4795; www
.sea-explorers.com; r with fan/air-con P1000/1400) Excellent positioning on the quiet southern end
of the beach. Motel-style standard rooms
have hot-water bathroom and windows
larger deluxe rooms have air-con. Breakfast
is included with all rooms. The small restaurant has well-priced food (meals around
P150), including Mexican, and wonderful
views over the water. This place is affiliated
with Sea Explorers dive centre.
Savedra Beach Resort (%474 0014; beachresort@
savedra.com; r P1400; a) Bright and cheery, Spanish missionstyle rooms all have starched
linen, fridge, coffee facilities, hot-water bathrooms and private balconies over the water.
Its affiliated with Savedra Dive Centre.
Corals Palm Court (%474 0103, 0919 594 6227; r
P400-1000) Unreconstructed backpacker digs
proudly running since 1987, Corals is a true
remnant of the late-era hippy trail. It has a
handful of small, viewless rooms for P400
and two sought-after seaview rooms for
P800 with cold-water bathroom, and P1000
for hot water and kitchenette. Plain, white
rooms are a bit rough around the edges but
theres no going past the lovely beachfront
balcony with its prime views. There are generous discounts for longer stays.
Sunshine Pension House (%474 0049; sunshine
pension@yahoo.com; cottages & d with cold-/hot-water
bathroom P500/600; s) On the other side of
the road from the beach, Sunshine is a big

resort-style place with large, excellent-value
rooms and cottages. The restaurant specialises in Swiss food (meals P150 to P200).
Mollies Place (%0917 254 7060; molliesplace@
skyinet.net; r with fan/air-con P500/1000) Fronted by a
relaxed little bar, Mollies has cheap, liveable
fan rooms and slightly better air-con rooms
in a run-down concrete complex. They can
arrange dive packages through Savedra Dive
Centre at Savedra Beach Resort.
Pacitas Resort (% 474 0182; cottage with fan
P300, r with air-con P1500) Occupying a huge
beachfront lot in the middle of Panagsama
Beach, Pacitas is a sprawling concrete eyesore though which you must pass to get to
the southern end of the beach. You can get

a lot better value than the seaview air-con
rooms, but they dont come any cheaper
than the Spartan fan cottages out the back.
Marina Beach Club Resort (%/fax 474 0047; r
PANAGSAMA
0
BEACH
0
with fan from P400, r & cottage with air-con from P1300)
Kiosk cant be missed for its position on a

noisy corner and the car park/village square
out the front. Rooms are small and plain, and
the token pool is very small. Next door is the
affiliated Nelsons Diving School (%0917
276 7969).
One to look out for is the eponymous
Susans Place (%0920 629 4488). Owned by a charismatic Australian-Filipina, Susans was
under construction at the time of research
but was due to open in 2006. It could have
some bargain rooms at the better end of
the beach.
White Beach
Asian-Belgian Resort & Dive Centre (%0917 744

7603; www.asian-belgian-resort.com; d P600) This
quiet, family-run resort has great views,
good food (meals around P200) and pleasant, native-style rooms with cold-water
bathrooms. The dive centre has a very goodvalue open-water diving course (US$250)
with an experienced instructor.
EATING & DRINKING
Most places to stay have restaurants, although there are plenty of other eateries
worth a look, and most are open for all
meals. At Panagsama beach, Hannahs Place
(meals from P250) has the finest seaside terrace
in Moalboal and easily the best seafood. Last
B
To White
Beach
(8km)
16
20
17
6
13
Taon
Strait
To Moalboal
(3km)
5
board (three meals). A cosy, homely place

with native-style rooms, all with views. Aircon rooms front the lobby, so can get noisy.
Its affiliated with Seaquest Dive Centre
(www.seaquestdivecenter.com), one of the
better and pricier dive centres.
Eves Kiosk (%/fax 0918 773 3730; cottage P500, r with
fan & cold-water bathroom P1000, r with air-con & hot-water
bathroom 1500; s) Away from the beach, Eves
0.1 miles
In a compound back from the beach, Marina has cheap huts with fan and cold-water
bathroom and pricier ones with air-con.
Big, plain, tiled rooms with hot water, fridge
and coffee facilities start at P1300. Affiliated
with Japanese dive centre Submaldive.
Sumisid Lodge (%Cebu City 346 9629, Panagsama
Beach 346 9629; r with fan & shared bathroom US$40, r with
air-con & private bathroom US$56) Prices include full
100 m
INFORMATION
Hotline Internet Caf..............1 B1
12
19
8
3
18
10
2
14
11
To
Moalboal
(3.2km)
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

Blue Abyss Dive Shop............2 A4
Nelson's Dive Shop..............(see 6)
Neptune Diving.....................3 A2
Planet Action.........................4 A3
Savedra Dive Centre..........(see 12)
Sea Explorers.......................(see 7)
Seaquest Dive Centre........(see 13)
Visaya Divers.....................(see 11)
SLEEPING
Coral's Palm Court.................5
Eve's Kiosk.............................6
Love's Lodge.........................7
Marina Beach Club Resort.....8
Mollie's Place........................9
Pacita's Resort.....................10
Quo Vadis Beach Resort......11
Savedra Beach Resort..........12
Sumisid Lodge......................13
Sunshine Pension House......14
Susan's Place.......................15
A2
A1
A4
A2
A4
A3
A4
A2
A1
A4
A4
EATING
Hannah's Place.....................16 A1
Italian Corner.......................17 A1
Last Filling Station................18 A3
15
7
DRINKING
Chilli Bar..............................19 A2
Lloyd's Music Lounge...........20 B1
Filling Station (meals from P150; h6.30am-10pm) is

famous for its breakfasts the muesli with
fruit and creamy, natural yoghurt (P100) is
the perfect balance-restorer after a lechon
(spit-roasted pig) overdose. Italian Corner
(pizza from P250; hdinner only) does good, traditional Italian pizzas.
Theres a drinking spot to suit most tastes
in Panagsama Beach, so do what the locals
do and bar hop till you find something you
like. Lively drinking holes include Mollies
Place, Lloyds Music Lounge and the Chilli Bar.
Buses for Moalboal leave Cebu South bus

station on the hour throughout the day
(P65, three hours). To get from Moalboal
T H E V I S AYA S
T H E V I S AYA S
256 C E B U S o u t h o f C e b u C i t y
C A M OT E S I S L A N D S Pa c i j a n I s l a n d 259
Camotes Islands
to Bato by the Ceres Liner bus (P42, two

hours), wait by the main road in town and
be prepared for standing room only. Most
resorts can organise van hire for Cebu or
Bato (P1500 to P2000).
CAMOTES ISLANDS
%032 / pop 82,528
Only two hours by pumpboat from Cebu,

the Camotes offer an authentic island life
that many adventurous tourists crave. The
groups two main islands, Poro and Pacijan (the latter is also referred to as San
Francisco), are connected by a mangrovefringed land bridge that enables visitors to
explore the two by motorcycle, the main
mode of transport here. Visitors rarely
make it to the third island, Ponson, which
looks to Leyte rather than Cebu as its main
link to the world.
There are only a few places to stay on the
islands, and besides local shops and markets, visitors must rely on these places for
a basic menu. There are also several resorts
that offer mushroom cottages (a thatchedroof shelter) for a small fee.
Fishing, agriculture and domestic tourism
are the major livelihoods on the Camotes.
As transport and communication are poor,
few international visitors make this very
worthwhile stop. The few who do will be
welcomed warmly by the locals.
Information
There is an information desk (%0920 796 8173)
and a post office at the Municipal Hall in
Poro town. Turn left as you leave the pier
and its about 200m down the road.
Activities
There is good wall diving around Tulang
Island, just north of Pacijan (see opposite).
At the time of research, local authorities
were also attempting to create marine sanctuaries in the reefs north and south of Poro
Island, near Esperanza and Tudela. There
are no dive centres in the Camotes, so you
must bring your own gear or come as part
of an organised trip.

Two ferries a day depart Cebu City for Poro
town (P140, four hours, noon and 9pm).
Danao, Cebu, is the main port for boats

bound for the Camotes. From Danao, there
are two daily pumpboat services for Poro
town, and two each for Consuela and San
Francisco on Pacijan Island. To and from
the islands, typically the first service leaves
around 6am, and the second around 10am
to noon (P120, two hours).
For information on getting to Ponson
Island, see p260.
%032 / pop 41,327
Pacijan has the only white-sand beaches

on the Camotes, and is where most of the
places to stay are located.
San Francisco
San Fran, the main town on Pacijan Island, stands at one end of the long land
bridge and mangrove forest that runs all the
way across to Poro Island. San Fran has a
lively market (to the left after the causeway,
on the bay), a church, a giant basketball
complex, a pretty little town square and
plenty of colourful murals. Motorcycles and
their riders can be hired for trips around
the island, or across to Poro Island, from
around the town square.
Lake Danao & Danao Fisheries

The Carmen-Lake Danao Fishery Complex is on
the southern bank of Lake Danao, behind the
town of Union (oon-yon). The fishery performs research on tilapia, an edible freshwater fish. The fish are farmed in floating
pens by the lakes edge, where there are nice
views to be had. Union is a 20-minute ride
from San Francisco.
D
Pilar
SLEEPING
Mangodlong Rock Resort ........................3 A3
Santiago Bay Garden & Resort..................4 A3
Seaview Pension House............................5 B3
To
Ormoc
Dapdap
San Juan
Ponson
Island
EATING
Green Lake Park & Restaurant..................6 B2
San Isidro
Kawit
Tulang
Island
Tulang Baku
Santa Rosa
Sonog
Esperanza
Esperanza
Lake
Danao
6
Bukog
Campo
Puertobello
Pacijan
Island
San
Isidro
Unidos
Mt Three
Peaks
(363m)
Altavista
View
To Danao
Esperanza
Bukilat
Cave
Calmante
Villahermosa
MacArthur
Poro
Boho
Rock
Tudela
Libertad
Panganuron Falls
CAMOTES
Santiago
To Danao
Pagsa &
Tangub Caves
Tigues
San
Francisco
Consuelo
San Jos
Adela
Santa
Cruz
Union
Himensulan
Poro
Island
Cabonga-an
PACIJAN ISLAND
10 km
6 miles
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

Boho Rock Resort......................................1 B3
Carmen-Lake Danao Fishery Complex......2 A2
Getting Around
The main means of travelling the mostly
dirt roads of the Camotes is motorcycle.
Most hubel-hubel riders will happily take
you and up to three other passengers
(though we dont advise this!) to any destination you want on the islands. Prices
are negotiable, but trips of 5km will cost
around P40, up to 10km will cost P100 and
over that (eg Poro town to Santiago) will
cost around P150. Alternatively you can
rent a motorbike at your resort for around
P500 per day. Jeepney services are timed
to meet the boats at outlying ports, such
as Consuelo.
0
0
CAMOTES ISLANDS
To Danao;
Cebu City
Esperanza is Pacijans second-largest town

and has a main street lined with yellowpainted pot plants. The town runs along a
white-sand beach strewn with fishing boats.
Like most towns in the Camotes, Esperanza
has a school, a church, shops and a basketball court. The road north from Esperanza
takes you up to Tulang Baku where you can
ask a fisherman to take you out to Tulang
Island (P50 return).
A delightful detour, if you have your own
bike, is the beachfront south of Esperanza,
where a narrow dirt road passes through a
string of little fishing villages and past peaceful coves with perfect white-sand beaches.
Esperanza is about half an hour from San
Fran by motorbike.
Sleeping & Eating

Santiago Bay Garden & Resort (%345 8599, 420
3385, 0915 815 3849; Santiago; d with fan & shared bathroom
P500, d with air-con & private bathroom P1000) Occupying a prime spot beside the best beach in
the Camotes, Santiago has a cheerful, family
atmosphere with lots of locals and music.
SEA
To Danao
Basic rooms are on a hillside overlooking

a vast, crescent-shaped bay with a white
beach. The water in the bay is very shallow,
and tides are consequently massive easily
80m to 100m from high to low. The resort
is fronted by a terraced restaurant (meals
around P150) with wonderful views.
Mangodlong Rock Resort (%Cebu 420 3385, 032
345 8599; d P1800; as) Sister resort to Santiago Bay, Mangodlong Rock Resort seems
to appeal to honeymooners and conferencegoers. It occupies a postcard-perfect, private
cove with a small beach and good snorkelling. Mangodlong comprises deluxe, nativestyle rooms, a thatched-roof bar and restaurant, and cute mushroom cottages that
have been built on the rocky outcrops at the
waters edge. Depending on your taste in entertainment, you may find it is best avoided
on weekends, when the videoke unit is in
full session.
On the road southeast of Union, follow
the signs to the Green Lake Park & Restaurant
(meals P40-80; h6am-late). Its a friendly place
with nice views of the lake and good Filipino food.
T H E V I S AYA S
T H E V I S AYA S
258 C A M OT E S I S L A N D S Pa c i j a n I s l a n d
PORO ISLAND
%032 / pop 29,317
Poro is the lesser of the two main islands.

It lacks the beaches of Pacijan and theres
nowhere really to stay or eat, though if you
have an off-road bike its forested hills have
the better touring.
Poro Town
Visitors arriving in Camotes from Cebu
City will land at the unassuming little port
of Poro, and be greeted by an onslaught of
hubel-hubel riders. And if its accommodation you seek, your first ride should be to
Pacijan Island.
SLEEPING & EATING
Theres no point staying in Poro town unless you have to. If you have to, about 100m
west (left) of the pier, the humble Seaview
Pension House (%0926 973 8189; tw P250) has
basic, mosquito-infested rooms sharing a
cold-water bathroom. The friendly woman
owner will cook your meals from ingredients you purchase for around P50 (theres
a small market next to the pier).
Altavista View & Mt Three Peaks

Due north of the Poro town pier, a bumpy
5km road takes you up to the lookout area
known as Altavista View (admission P3). The serene plateau has a comfort room, a small
treehouse and three other open cottages
that you can sit in for P15 to P25. Whether
you choose the rental options or the free
benches, the views you will receive Pacijans Lake Danao and Tulang Island to the
west, and Leyte to the north are quite
marvellous. The three fairly tiddly peaks
nearby Mt Three Peaks that make up
the Camotes highest region are Elijan,
Kaban-Kaban and Kantomaro.
Bukilat Cave
Beside a rough dirt road about 6km inland
from Tudela, is the well-hidden Bukilat Cave
(admission P3). The road you want heads north
from Tudela, then east, passing the Calmante Elementary School about 4km along.
A sign for the cave pops up once youre almost there. The entrance fee is payable at the
nearby waiting shed or shop. One inky-black
corner is apparently the start of a long passage through which an underground stream
flows. If youre up for the swim, it can be
explored properly providing you can rustle

up a guide and some torches (flashlights).
Just west of Tudela, a 1km walking trail
inland takes you to Panganuron Falls, which
tend to dry up in high summer (from March
to May).
Pugsa & Tangub Caves

Little known and seldom visited, these large
caves high in the hills are approached by a
steep, extremely rugged trail from Tigues
village. Only for serious caving enthusiasts.
Boho Rock Resort

On the southwestern tip of Poro Island, this
resort (admission P3) is an absolute gem of a
swimming spot. You can see it from the
Poro town pier, but to reach it by land you
head about 2km west of Poro town on the
main road, until you see the turn-off to the
resort. The entrance path takes you past
the Camotes Electric Cooperative, and then
down to a rocky islet thats been turned
into a stunning aquatic playground with a
diving platform. There is good snorkelling
among the rocks. A mushroom cottage can
be rented for P15 (four hours).
PONSON ISLAND
BOHOL
%038
In most tourism brochures a bug-eyed tarsier clinging to a tree superimposed on a

background of the Chocolate Hills is shorthand for the island of Bohol; it seems white
sandy beaches are too common to warrant
inclusion. While this distinctive pairing
draws the domestic crowds, its the lush
jungle interior, rice terraces and offshore
islands, most prominently Panglao Island
and its great diving, which truly captures the
imagination of travellers; a tour of the towns
will reveal some of the countrys best examples of colonial Spanish churches, many of
which are made from coral stone. Bohol is
also known for its ube or ubi (yams), the
bright-purple sweet potatoes that give haluhal (various fruit and vegetable preserves
served in shaved ice and milk), the national
dessert, its distinctive colour and flavour.

AIR
There are several daily flights from both

Manila and Cebu to Tagbilaran airport and
back again (see p263).
known more simply as Tagbilaran Cathedral.

It was built in 1767, burnt to the ground in
1798 and rebuilt and enlarged in 1855.
Orientation
Carlos P Garcia Ave (known by locals as CPG
or CP Garcia) is the main drag, but all the
streets from Plaza Rizal in the south to Maria
Clara St in the north are chock full of traffic.
The Bohol Quality Mall is the commercial
and geographic centre of activity while the
much larger Island City Mall is in the suburbs to the northeast. The long shorefront
along the Tagbilaran Strait has little appeal.
Information
EMERGENCY
Police station (%166; San Jose St)

INTERNET ACCESS
There are at least a half-a-dozen cafs in the

area around the Bohol Quality Mall; most
charge around P20 per hour.
CenterNet Computers (cnr Carlos P Garcia Ave & J Borja
St; h9am-late Mon-Sat)
Internet Cathedral (MH del Pilar St; h9am-midnight)

Slash Cybercaf (Lesage St; h8am-midnight)
MEDICAL SERVICES
Governor Celestino Gallares Memorial Hospital
%032 / pop 11,884
The charm in visiting a place as remote as

Ponson is the attention youll get, which varies from warmly effusive to wryly amused.
What it tells you is that very, very few travellers make it this far.
Ponson Island is accessible from Ormoc
(Leyte) and from Danao (Cebu).
There are two main towns on Ponson:
Pilar and Kawit. Kawit is the more picturesque of the two, with a lovely long, whitesand beach. There is no established place to
stay in either town, although you can make
enquiries about homestays at the respective
barangay (village or community) halls.
To the northerly town of Pilar there are
three weekly services from Danao (P120,
3 hours, departs Monday, Wednesday,
Friday at noon) that also stop at the southern town of Kawit (2 hours). A Sunday
service from Danao goes direct to Pilar
(P120, 2 hours, departs 7.30am).
There is a daily pumpboat service departing 1pm from Tudela, Poro Island, to Kawit
(P30, 45 minutes), Pilar (P50, 1 hours)
and Ormoc (P120, three hours).
B O H O L Ta g b i l a r a n 261
BOAT
(%411 3324; Miguel Parras St)
Tagbilaran is Bohols main port other ports

include Tubigon, Jagna, Ubay, Talibon and
Jeta Fe. There are umpteen ways to get here
from Cebu City (see p238) as well as connections to Manila, Leyte, Mindanao, Siquijor
and Negros. Look under individual Getting
There & Away entries in this section for information on boat travel between Bohol and
other destinations in the Philippines.
Ramiro Community Hospital (%411 3515; 63
TAGBILARAN
Gallares St)
MONEY
Most major banks have branches here with

ATMs.
BPI (Bank of the Philippine Islands; cnr Carlos P Garcia Ave
& G Visarra St)
Metrobank (Carlos P Garcia Ave)

PNB (Philippine National Bank; San Jose St)
%038 / pop 90,000
POST
Crossing the street in the port capital of Tagbilaran (the name is derived from two words
meaning to hide from the Moros) is like
playing a real-life version of the video-arcade
game Frogger. A fleet of tricycles, sometimes
hard to see amid fog from their exhaust
fumes, can at least definitely be heard! Nevertheless if your interests are divided between
the watery and land-based kind, then this
commercial city is a practical place to base
yourself. In the heart of town, have a look
at the huge St Joseph the Worker Cathedral, also
Main post office (J Torralba St) Opposite the city hall.

TOURIST INFORMATION
City Tourism Information & Assistance Centre

(%235 5497; www.tagbilaran.gov.ph; cnr CP Garcia Ave
& H Grupo St; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat) On the southwest
corner of Agora Market. Staff can assist with accommodation and transport inquiries and bookings.
TRAVEL AGENCIES
Tarsier Tours & Travel (%411 3615; Carlos P Garcia

Ave) On the ground floor of the Metro Centre Hotel.
T H E V I S AYA S
T H E V I S AYA S
260 C A M OT E S I S L A N D S P o r o I s l a n d
B O H O L Ta g b i l a r a n 263
Bohol
0
0
BOHOL
20 km
12 miles
To Manila
CEBU CITY
CAMOTES
To Bato &
Hilongos
SEA
CEBU
Mahanay
Island
an
Talibon
Jeta Fe
Cabulao
Bay
Tubigon
Cabilao
Island
Calape
Macpoc
San
Sandingan
Isidro
Island
Catagbacan
Balicasag
Island
Sikatuna
Tagbilaran
Baclayon
Dauis Bool
Alburquerque
ver
c R
i
Sevilla
Lobo
Cortes
Corella
Bilar
Loboc
Loay
Chocolate
Hills
Sierra
Bullones
Rajah Sikatuna
National Park
Garcia
Hernandez
Dimiao
Lila
Mabini
Pilar
Cogtong
Bay
Carmen
Batuan
Balilihan
Punta Cruz
Gak-ang Island
BOHOL
Catigbian
Antequera
Maribojoc
Panglao
Pungtud Island
Alicia
Sagbayan
Loon
Cagtin
San
Miguel
Clarin
Pangangan Island
To Dumaguete
(Negros), Dapitan,
Cagayan de Oro,
Dipolog, Larena
(Siquijor)
Ubay
Inabangay
Inaruran Island
Mantatao Island
ne
Buenavista
Maribojoc
Bay
Lapinig
Island
Trinidad
an
Ch
ao
To Maasin
i
g
Jau
Island
Candijay
Mt Pugatin
Guindalman
Anda
Basdio
Duero
Candabong
Guindulman
Bay
Jagna
Valencia
Panglao
Island
See Panglao Island
Map (p267)
BOHOL SEA
Pamilacan
Island
Tours
If you are interested in experiencing a slice
of Boholano life, as well as helping out the
locals, contact Process-Bohol (%501 7742; www
.processbohol.org; 111-A Espuelas Extension), a nonprofit
community-run organisation that arranges
homestays, demonstrations and tours.
Festivals & Events

Bohol Fiesta (Apr-May) Tagbrilaran is the headquarters
of this giant festival celebrating St Joseph. The towns own
fiesta kicks off the proceedings on 1 May, with lead-ups
from 22 April.
Sandugo Festival (Jul) This festival, held in the first
week of July celebrates the March 1565 blood compact
(see p272). It is followed by a string of other festivals (such
as an arts and culture festival and an agricultural fair) that
have turned the whole of July into party month.
To Cagayan
de Oro
To Nasipit
(Butuan)
the toilets are seat-free and street noise can

be an issue. The wharf-facing rooms and
the 4th-floor restaurant have good views.
Nisa Travellers Inn (%411 3731; Carlos P Garcia
Ave; s/d with fan & shared bathroom P200/300, r with
air-con & private bathroom P600) Nisa is popular
because of its central location and cheap

rates, however the fan rooms are nothing
more than bare cells and the air-con rooms
are only slightly more appealing. The vibe is
friendly and familiar and theres a spacious
and clean balcony area and restaurant. Look
for the entrance up a flight of stairs.
MIDRANGE
Via Bohol Tourist Inn (%411 5334; Graham Ave; r from

P800; a) A modern hotel close to the ferry
BUDGET
terminal with spick-and-span tiled rooms

and bathrooms that are especially nice. Fancy
TVs are in each room, some with videoke.
Villa Alzhun Tourist Inn & Restaurant (%411
Everglory Lodge & Restaurant (%411 4969; cnr

C Galleres & Maria Clara Sts; r with fan/air-con P350/600)
3893; 162 VP Inting St, Mansasa Seaside; r from P900;

as) An old-style villa 2km south of town
The high riselike Everglory is a short walk

from the wharf. Rooms are clean but the
furniture is old. While all have bathrooms,
overlooking the Tagbilaran Strait. Woodfloored rooms are heavy on the chintz but
are well kept and have nice sunset views.
Sleeping
Tours, transfers, spa, restaurant, bar and

karaoke are available.
Hotel La Roca (%411 3796/3179; Graham Ave; d
from P1000; as) The longstanding La Roca
at the quiet, northern end of town has large
and light rooms with big windows and a
mix of wicker and wood furniture. The restaurant and pool area out back are especially
nice when lit up at night. The hotel attracts
banquets, conferences and seminars.
Tavers Pension House (%411 4896/3983; Remolador St; s/d from P600/750; ai) While staff at
this pension house are businesslike and
professional, rooms resemble the cabins on
many ferries which isnt necessarily a bad
thing; its just that despite little touches of
class like pink curtains and plastic flowers, rooms are fairly basic. Each room has
a bathroom with hot water and cable TV.
Theres an Internet caf (open 8am to midnight) on the 1st floor.
Chriscent Ville Pension House (%411 4029/3070;
fax 235 4266; C Gallares St; s/d from P750/850; a) Located in the heart of the city (which means
quiet is sacrificed for convenience) Chriscent Ville has tiled rooms that are generally
clean, though some are beginning to show
wear and tear. All have hot-water bathrooms and cable TV, and staff will assist
with ticketing, tours and transfers. Theres
a restaurant and bar on the 4th floor.
TOP END
If you are going to shell out a few extra

bucks you might as well be on the beach
in a nicer setting but, if you have to be in
the city
Bohol Tropics Resort (%411 3510/14; www.bohol
tropics.com; Graham Ave; r P1450-2450; sa) Although its the closest seaside resort to the
city, theres no beachfront and the standard
rooms are surprisingly basic and ill-kempt
for a resort with luxurious pretensions. The
newer rooms are much nicer and more expensive, with modern amenities and seaview balconies. There are three swimming
pools, three restaurants, and dive facilities.
Metro Centre Hotel (%411 2599; www.metro
centrehotel.com; Carlos P Garcia Ave; r from P1250-6000;
ais) While the tasteful rooms at this
ritzy eight-storey hotel are more luxurious

and the service more attentive than at Bohol
Tropics, the fact that it is in the heart of town
on the corner of MH del Pilar St means it
attracts more business types than vacation-
ers. Breakfast is included and theres a spa

and gym, disco, a business centre, 24-hour
coffee shop and room service from Asiatika
(see below). Wi-Fi Internet is available.
Eating
Garden Caf (%411 3756; JS Torralba St; meals P60150) This place with a country-and-western
theme cowboy hats, John Wayne posters, mounted antelope heads, wagon-wheel
chandeliers and country music next to
the Tagbilaran Cathedral employs deaf wait
staff and serves up juicy steaks from Australia and New Zealand. Chilli, pizza and
other Americana meals can be dialled into
the kitchen from the tableside phones.
Odysseus Steak Haus & Restaurant (%235 6364;
Maria Clara St; sandwiches P125; h8.30am-9pm Mon-Sat)
The first place on Maria Clara St after the

wharf, Odysseus, a small family-run restaurant, is a good choice to while away the time
with a shake or dessert while waiting for a
ferry. Alternatively, try a full-course meal of
Filipino or European food including burgers (P125) and steaks (P340).
Asiatika (%411 2599; Carlos P Garcia Ave; dishes P150;
h11am-2pm & 6pm-midnight) With its white tablecloths and uniformed waiters, this restaurant
on the 2nd floor of the Metro Centre Hotel
qualifies as fancy in Tagbilaran. It has a large
menu of Japanese, Chinese and Thai dishes.
JJs Dimsum Restaurant (%411 3306; Carlos P Garcia Ave; dishes P80) JJs gets busy, especially at
lunchtime, serving up inexpensive Chinese
fare. Fish, tofu and noodles are available in
group portions. JJs Mandarin Royal, Dimsums more upmarket cousin, is near the
K&C Wharf.
Jovings Seafood Restaurant and next-door
Mr Seafood Restaurant (main wharf; meals P100-150;
h6.30am-9pm) catch what little breeze there
is, perched over the water teetering on
wooden stilts. Their menus include Filipinostyle seafood and other tasty meat dishes.
Theres a Jollibee and other fast food in
or around the Bohol Quality Mall in town,
as well as fast-food restaurants at the Island
City Mall a few kilometres to the northeast.
For late-night cheap eats, go to the row of
food stalls (Bernadino Inting St) near the market.

AIR
The ticketing offices are at the airport, a few

kilometres north of the city centre. There
T H E V I S AYA S
T H E V I S AYA S
262 B O H O L Ta g b i l a r a n
B O H O L Pa n g l a o I s l a n d 265
Tagbilaran
0
0
TAGBILARAN
A
18
23
To Bohol Tropics Resort (200m);

Hotel La Roca (300m);
Kilum-Kilum (400m)
24
Tagbilaran
Port
200 m
0.1 miles
Circumferential
Rd
To Governor's Mansion (200m);

St Jude General Hospital;
Provincial Capital Building (1km);
Airport (1km)
Maria Clara St
14
Rem
BOAT
There is a P11 terminal fee for departing

Tagbilaran.
Aboitiz, WG&A Superferry and other
ticketing outlets are on C Gallares St. Negros Navigation has two offices on Carlos P
Garcia Ave, and Trans-Asia Shipping Lines
is on R Palma St.
or S
olad
University
of Bohol
30
a St
Church
J Borj
21
K&C
Wharf
M Torralba St
R Palma St
31
Between Kinswell, Ocean Jet and Weesam

there are around eight fast-boat trips between Tagbilaran and Cebu (P500, 1 to two
hours) from 6.30am to 6pm. Several slower
and larger crafts also service the route daily.
29
a St
Cebu
isarr
GV
Miguel
Carlos P Ga
Parras
28
17
St
rcia Ave
CG
15
Manila
res
alla
St
5
MH
tin
In
10
rn
ad
in
Mindanao
Be
22
19
ho
go
yS
Ro
ch
St
St
F
e
er
ng
Ta
St
St
in
ar
Cl
A
To Dao Bus &
Jeepney Station (2km);
Island City Mall (3km)
to
ien
St
se
St
TRANSPORT
Aboitiz Office Express & other
Ticketing Outlets.................(see 13)
Bus for Panglao..........................25 D5
Multicab for Dao....................... 26 D4
Negros Navigation.....................27 D4
Negros Navigation Shipping.......28 D3
NF Rent-A-Car...........................29 D2
Trans-Asia Shipping Lines...........30 C1
WG&A Superferry......................31 B2
rm
12
Bu
rgo
To Panglao
Island (1km)
The quickest water route to Mindanao is

the Ocean Jet morning boat to Dapitan via
Larena (P730, four hours).
Trans-Asia has a boat leaving at 7pm
every Monday, Wednesday and Friday for
Cagayan de Oro; Cebu Ferries departs Saturday at midnight for the same destination
(both around P600, nine hours).
SuperFerry has a boat to Dipolog early
Sunday morning (P750, nine hours).
25
Plaza
Rizal
Sa
20
13
7
iM
JS
JJ's Dimsum Restaurant............(see 15)

JJ's Mandarin Royal....................21 B2
Jollibee...................................... 22 D4
Joving's Seafood Restaurant.......23 A1
Mr Seafood Restaurant............(see 23)
Odyssesus Steak House &
Restaurant..............................24 A1
a
lb
rra Provincial
To Capital Building
Market
Jo
EATING
Asiatika....................................(see 15)
Food Stalls................................. 19 D4
Garden Caf.............................. 20 D5
ol
Borja Family
Hospital
ENTERTAINMENT
Cinema....................................(see 15)
C5
B1
D3
D4
C3
B1
S
age
Les 11
SLEEPING
Chriscent Ville Pension House.... 13
Everglory Lodge & Restaurant.....14
Metro Centre Hotel................... 15
Nisa Travellers Inn..................... 16
Taver's Pension House............... 17
Via Bohol Tourist Inn..................18
16
27
Holy Name
University
Sa
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

St Joseph the Worker Cathedral.. 12 D5
o St
p
H Gru
26
Agora
Market
St
les
Ing
FR
Da
Bohol
Quality
Mall
Negros Navigation and SuperFerry sail between Tagbilaran and Manila twice a week
(tourist class around P1600, 28 hours).
ilar S
del P
St
INFORMATION
Bohol Travel & Tours...................1 D3
BPI...............................................2 D2
CenterNet Computers..................3 C2
City Hall.....................................(see 9)
City Tourism & Information Assistance
Centre..................................... 4 D4
Governor Celestino Gallares Memorial
Hospital...................................5 D3
Internet Cathedral........................6 C3
Main Post Office..........................7 C5
Metrobank.................................. 8 D4
PNB...........................................(see 7)
Police Station...............................9 C5
Ramiro Community Hospital......10 C3
Slash Cybercaf......................... 11 D4
Tarsier Tours & Travel..............(see 15)
are also several travel agencies in town and

most of the hotels can help with bookings.
Philippine Airlines (%411 3102) and Cebu Pacific
(%411 5701) each have two flights daily between Manila and Tagbilaran (one hour).
Negros
Ocean Jet leaves for Dumaguete (P520, 1

hours) daily at 9.30am. SuperFerry sails to
Dumaguete (P520, three hours) early in the
morning every Wednesday and Sunday.
Siquijor
sS
To Panglao Island (1.6km);

Villa Alzhun Tourist Inn
& Restaurant (2km);
Chocolate Hills (40km);
Jagna (63km)
Ocean Jet has a morning and evening boat

daily to Larena (P550, three hours). Super
Shuttle Ferry has a 6pm departure to Lazi
(P550, three hours) every Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday.
BUS
Tagbilarans primary road-transport hub

for buses and jeepneys is the Dao Bus &
Jeepney Station (%235 4377) beside the large

Island City Mall, a P25 tricycle ride or P40
taxi northeast of town. You can also take a
multicab (small jeepney) from the northeast corner of the Agora Market (opposite
Jollibee) for P5.
Daily buses leave from the station for
destinations all over Bohol see individual
Getting There & Away sections later in this
chapter. For Panglao Island, buses cost P4
to Dauis (4km) and P11 to Panglao town
(18km). To avoid the trip out to Dao, the
Panglao bus can be hailed down from A
Clarin St (on the corner of Noli Me Tangere St, behind the PNB). Buses travelling
further than 40km start their service at 3am
and leave almost hourly until 5pm. Local
buses start at 5am and travel approximately
every 20 minutes until around 6pm.
If the bus is not fully loaded by the time
it departs from the terminal, expect a slow
crawl through the city in the search for
more passengers.
CAR & TAXI
Hotels in Tagbilaran can organise hire cars

with drivers, particularly for trips to the
Chocolate Hills (p270). A day-long island
tour (from 6am to 6pm) skirting the entire coastline, and allowing for many small
stopovers, will cost around P3000 for a car
and driver, more for a van. Half a day will
cost P2000. Call MJ Rent A Car (%411 5756), NF
Rent-A-Car (Tropical Horizon; %411 4568) or Lugod
Rent-a-Car (%411 2044/2682).
Many of the citys surrounding attractions are a short drive away on good roads,
and most taxis which go by their meters
(within 30km of Tagbiliran) are a good alternative. You can either pick a taxi off the
street or call Varescon (%411 2548).
PANGLAO ISLAND
%038
Panglao Island is generally associated with

Alona Beach, a congested strip of resorts
and dive centres on the far west side. While
Alona doesnt necessarily afford much
sunbathing privacy, its a logical choice for
those who demand tropical drinks at beachside bars after diving.
There are several other pricey resorts
scattered along the coastal strip surrounding this mostly flat island, which is separated from Bohol by a narrow channel.
T H E V I S AYA S
T H E V I S AYA S
264 B O H O L Ta g b i l a r a n
B O H O L Pa n g l a o I s l a n d 267
Panglao Island
A good way to get around Panglao is by

motorbike either get yourself a driver or
rent one off the street for around P500 per
day. Pumpboats can be rented off the shores
to take you to nearby islands for around
P2500 for half a day of island-hopping
or dolphin and whale watching.
Fiesta time in Panglao town is in late
August. In Dauis, its in mid-August.
Information
There are no ATMs on Panglao. Many of
the resorts can offer cash back with your
credit card, but they affix an exorbitant surcharge. Its best to cash up in Tagbilaran
before arrival.
Theres a full-service tourist centre (%502
9100) where the paved road meets the beach
road. It develops film, has an Internet caf,
changes dollars and travellers cheques, provides transport information and sells souvenirs, and beach clothes and paraphernalia.
Activities
Diving is what draws tourists to Panglao.
Apart from revelling in underwater paradises of Balicasag Island (p269) and Pamilacan Island (p269), just south of Alona
Beach, divers also use Panglao as a base
from which to reach Cabilao (p269) to the
north. You can probably score the best deal
by combining accommodation with diving.
The average prices are: one dive US$20,
equipment rental US$5, open-water diving
certificate US$300, snorkel-equipment hire
US$6.
Alona Divers (%502 9043; www.nautilus-diving.com;
Tierra Azul)
Atlantis Dive Centre (Alona Pyramid Resort)

Genesis Divers (%502 9056; www.genesisdivers.com;
Peters House)
Sleeping
ALONA BEACH
Just about all the beachside resorts either

have dive centres or are closely affiliated with
one, and most have restaurants and bars. The
resorts are so closely packed together that
shopping around for food or diving deals is
no problem, though its hard to keep track of
names since many have Alona somewhere
in the title. Most resorts have cold-water
bathrooms. A few of the hotels listed line
the road running parallel to, and behind, the
beach east of the tourist centre.
Budget
Peters House (%/fax 502 9056, 0918 770 8434; www

.genesisdivers.com; r for divers/nondivers P300/400) A
nipa-hut complex with a friendly and laidback communal vibe, Peters appeals especially to divers on a budget and long-term
visitors. A few rooms, especially the topfloor attic, are airy and have nice views. All
rooms share a well-kept cold-water bathroom. Its affiliated with Genesis Divers.
Alonaville Beach Resort (%411 3254; d with shared
bathroom P200, nipa huts P500) A good budget deal.
Rooms are small and rundown, and noise
from the good restaurant and bar scene
might keep you awake, but you wont find a
place much cheaper or closer to the action.
Alona Pyramid Resort (%502 9058; fax 502 9090;
nipa huts P350) Has two-storey huts with two
double beds. Its affiliated with Atlantis Dive
Centre and the popular Safety Stop Bar.
Alonaland (%502 9007, 0917 304 0211; fax 502
9007; nipa huts & cottages P350-800; a) A better
budget option for those who can cope with
a 50m walk to the beach (through Alona
Tropical). Accommodation ranges from
basic nipa huts to cottages with air-con and
kitchen facilities.
Philippine Islands Divers (%0917 320 1990; www

.phildivers.com)
Midrange
Pro Safari (%0926 598 5553; www.prosafari.com)

Scuba World Inc (%502 9450; www.scubaworld
Alona Tropical (%502 9031; r with fan/air-con from

P800/1800; s) At the quieter eastern end of
the beach, this is a good choice if you want
something a cut above budget accommodation. It also has a popular restaurant with
lunch and dinner buffets for P450. Its affiliated with Sea Explorers dive centre.
Alona Kew White Beach (%502 9042/27; www
.com.ph)
Sea Explorers (www.sea-explorers.com; Alona Tropical)

Sea Quest Divers (Oasis Resort)
Snorkellers can experience the refreshingly
cold waters of Hinagdanan Cave (admission P10)
at Bingag, on the islands northern coast,
with its mixture of fresh and salt water;
definitely worth a visit for its stalactite and
stalagmite formations.
.alonakew.com; s/d with fan P1285/1420, s/d with air-con

P2100/2225) A prominent hotel, the first one
you approach from the access road. Alona

Kew has a range of accommodation from
0
0
PANGLAO ISLAND
A
5 km
3 miles
To Tagbilaran
0
0
22 Es
0.1 miles
Lim
St
BOHOL
ISLAND
Maribojoc Bay
4 1
15 23
2
13 3
18
25
To Panglao
17
te
100 m
6 8
7 10
27
26
Tagbilaran
20
19
21
24
Alona Beach
Totulan
Bool
Hinagdanan Cave
Dauis
Bingag
Momo
Beach
Mt Biking
(197m)
Tangnan
14
Mormol
Duljo
Beach
11
Cascia
Catarman
Dao
Panglao
Bolod
Libaong Beach
Panglao
Bay
16
Tawala
Pungtud
Island
Taburuc
Point
Danao
Alona Beach
See Enlargement
Gak-ang
Island
Bikini Beach
PANGLAO ISLAND
Duljo
To
Pamilacan
Island
12
Balicasag
Island
INFORMATION
Tourist Centre....................................1 A1
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

Alona Divers..................................(see 23)
Atlantis Dive Centre.........................(see 7)
Genesis Divers................................(see 21)
Philippine Islands Divers......................2 A1
Pro Safari............................................3 A1
Scuba World Inc.................................4 A1
Sea Explorers....................................(see 8)
Sea Quest Divers............................(see 19)
SLEEPING
Alona Kew White Beach.....................5
Alona Palm Beach Resort &
Restaurant......................................6
Alona Pyramid Resort.........................7
Alona Tropical.....................................8
Alonaland...........................................9
Alonaville Beach Resort.....................10
Anan Yana.......................................11
Balicasag Island Dive Resort..............12
Bohol Divers Resort..........................13
Bohol Plaza Resort &
Restaurant..................................14
Charlotte Dive Resort.......................15
Dumaluan Beach Resort...................16
JJs Alona...........................................17
small, basic rooms in a thatched bamboo

and concrete building, to larger stand-alone
cottages, to beachfront rooms with balconies. An open-air restaurant serves up large
portions of seafood and Filipino standards
slowly; at dinnertime theres often live
music to ease the wait.
Bohol Divers Resort (%/fax 502 9047; r with fan/aircon from P800/1000; s) This popular resort is set
just off the beach around a nice freshwater
swimming pool. Theres a wide range of accommodation from inexpensive nipa huts
to pricier concrete villas. Theres a pleasant
open-air restaurant and tennis courts.
Charlotte Dive Resort (%502 9155, 0910 641 6779;
r from P1500; a) Anchoring the northern end
of the beach is this white two-storey build-
A1
B1
B1
B1
A1
B1
B2
A3
A1
D2
A1
C3
B1
Mondsee Land Resort.......................18

Oasis Resort......................................19
Panglao Island Nature Resort............20
Peter's House....................................21
Sun Apartelle....................................22
Tierra Azul........................................23
B1
B1
C1
B1
B1
A1
EATING
Alonaville Restaurant........................24 B1
Kamalig............................................25 A1
Trudi's Place.....................................26 A1
DRINKING
Flying Fish Bar................................(see 25)
Oops Bar...........................................27 B1
Safety Stop Bar................................(see 7)
ing with several cavernous, airy rooms with

balconies and large, tiled bathrooms. Caters
to Korean divers.
Tierra Azul (%502 9065, %/fax 500 0694; r with
fan/air-con P600/1000) Has large, clean, midrange
rooms on the western end of the beach, away
from the bar scene. The restaurant doesnt
serve evening meals, but has a lovely view
and the home-style management is very
friendly. Attached is Alona Divers.
Mondsee Land Resort (%502 9006; alonamerl@
yahoo.com; Ester Lim St; r US$30; as) If the beachfront places are booked or youre just after
peace and quiet, Mondsee boasts a pleasant
little pool with coffee and drinks bar and
large rooms with private bathrooms. A more
expensive room has an outdoor kitchen.
T H E V I S AYA S
T H E V I S AYA S
266 B O H O L Pa n g l a o I s l a n d
JJs Alona (%502 9129; Ester Lim St; r P1200; a) A

two-storey home away from the beach, JJs
has clean tiled rooms overlooking a small,
tranquil garden.
Top End
Oasis Resort (%502 9083; www.seaquestdivecenter

.net; s/d with fan US$40/60, s/d with air-con US$50/75;
is) Your privacy is guaranteed at this
aptly named resort, tucked away in a grove

of palm trees just up from the beach. Several warmly decorated native bungalows
and a restaurant with a few creative selections surround a nice pool. Its connected
to Sea Quest Divers.
Alona Palm Beach Resort & Restaurant (%502
9141; www.alonapalmbeach.com; r US$136; as) A
stand of palm trees guard the entrance to
the Palm Beach, on the strips southern end.
Though its the swankiest and most expensive
of the bunch on Alona, it isnt ostentatious
about its status. Sunny oversized modern villas with private verandas surround the pool
and grounds. The restaurant has a rich Euro
menu (mains around P350).
Sun Apartelle (%502 9063; www.sunapartelle.de;
Ester Lim St; apartments from US$60; ais) An attractive yellow villa, Sun Apartelles rooms
are, not surprisingly, apartment-like and
good for long-term stays. Each has a fullservice kitchen and living room, though the
furniture is a little chintzy. Theres also a
pool set in a grotto, and a sunny restaurant.
AROUND THE ISLAND
Anan Yana (%502 8101; www.ananyana.com; Duljo

Beach; r US$144; as) At remote Duljo Beach,
Anan Yana has stylish Filipino rooms on
3km of white, sandy beach. Tasteful, Asianminimalist dcor and architecture, a serene
setting and no phone or TV make this the
best romantic getaway. Swimming pool,
diving and a good, Italian-influenced restaurant add to the luxury.
Panglao Island Nature Resort (%411 2599; www
.panglaoisland.com; Bingag; r from US$117; as) One
of the more beautifully integrated resorts on
the island, the thatched cottages at the Nature Resort are surrounded by leafy gardens,
and the beachfront cottages have magnificent
ocean views. All have wooden floors, bamboo
furniture and private verandas. A pool and
Jacuzzi front the beach and theres an open
pavilion restaurant serving European and
Filipino dishes; wi-fi Internet is available.
Dumaluan Beach Resort (%502 9081/92; Bolod;

huts from P595, r with air-con from P1500; as) A
good option if you want to avoid the hype
of Alona without paying big bucks. A large
range of accommodation meets the needs of
most visitors, and swimming pool, spa, diving and a good restaurant are available to all.
Its only neighbour is Bohol Beach Club.
Bohol Plaza Resort & Restaurant (% 500
0882/1019; www.boholplazaresort.com; Dayo Hill, Dauis;
r from P1300; as) If the beach isnt your
thing, this imposing fortresslike resort a few

hundred metres up a mountain offers tiled,
spacious rooms with hot-water bathroom
and great views. Watch the Tagbilaran
lights come on across the river from the
mountaintop restaurant.
Eating & Drinking

Most of the resorts and hotels have restaurants and bars along the beach.
Trudis Place (meals P120) A lovely, open barrestaurant where you can dine on the beach
and enjoy very good cheap food.
Kamalig (meals P175; h4pm-midnight Mon-Sat)
On the road that runs up between Alona
Kew and Sunshine Travel. People come
here for good Italian food.
Flying Fish Bar, Safety Stop Bar and Oops Bar
have live music and drinking.

Panglao Island Transport Services Cooperative
(%502 9460, 0920 746 9401) basically refers to
the group of car and van drivers that hang
out in front of the tourist centre on Alona
Beach. Prices are generally non-negotiable,
though bargaining is worth a try during the
low season. A full-day Chocolate Hills tour
costs P2500. The following are one-way
costs from Panglao for one to three persons: Tagbilaran P450; Jagna P2500; Loboc
P2200; Loon P1800; and Corella P1500.
For buses from Tagbilaran, see p263. The
simplest way to reach Alona is to hire a
tricycle from anywhere in Tagbilaran (P175,
30 to 45 minutes). Taxis from Tagbilaran
are more comfortable and quicker and cost
around P250 to P300. Transport to resorts
not on Alona Beach will command slightly
higher fares. There are often jeepneys or
minibuses hanging around after dropping
off passengers in Alona. You may be able
to commandeer one of these for around
P200 for a quick trip back to Tagbilaran.
Broken down jeepneys and buses ply the

same route (P12) but stop frequently and
their departures are hard to predict.
BALICASAG ISLAND
%038
One of the premier diving spots in the Philippines, Balicasag, about 6km southwest of
Panglao, is ringed by a pristine reef that has
been declared a marine sanctuary. It drops
away to impressive submarine cliffs as deep
as 50m. Soft and hard corals can be found
around the cliffs, as can trevally, barracuda,
wrasse and the occasional white-tip shark.
Balicasag Island Dive Resort (%502 6001, in Manila 32-812 1984; ptabidr@bohol-online.com; cottages from
P1400) has large cottages with fan, bathroom
and veranda in duplex nipas. It has friendly

staff, a good restaurant and a coral-sand
island all to itself.
Balicasag is a 45-minute boat ride from
Alona Beach ring ahead for the resort to
arrange your pick-up. If visiting for the day,
a return boat trip from Panglao will cost
around P800.
PAMILACAN ISLAND
%038
The tiny island of Pamilacan, about 23km

east of Balicasag, is cetacean central; home
to whales and dolphins. Since the 1992 ban
on capturing these creatures, Pamilicanans,
descendants of three generations of whalers,
have had to find other ways to earn a living.
Many locals are willing to take you out to see
them there are 12 species known to visit
these waters but the best group to go with
is the community-based Pamilican Island Dolphin & Whale Watching Tours (%540 9279, 0919 730
6108 for Jojo Baritua; http://whales.bohol.ph; Baclayon public
market; per person P1250), which uses old converted
whaling boats and local crews. The trip includes a full day on the water and transfers
from Baclayon (on Bohol) or Panglao; boats
hold four to six people. The best time for
spotting whales is from February to July; dolphins are fairly common year-round.
There is no snorkelling gear on the island
so youll have to rent gear from a Panglao
dive centre.
Sleeping
There are several sets of nipa huts offered
on Pamilican, all providing basic meals (its
best if vegetarians notify in advance).
B O H O L B a l i c a s a g I s l a n d 269
Junior and Nemesia Pingkihan (%0919

419 4684) can arrange a bed in a small cottage with three meals a day for around P650
and can organise dolphin tours for around
P2500 per boat.
Nitas Nipa Huts (%0918 824 9447; r per person
P400) The cheapest and most well established.
Huts range from double to family sized
the double with views on the waters edge is
the best positioned. All have fan and shared
bathroom. Nita can organise a night-time
squid-fishing trip for visitors and arrange
a pick-up from Panglao for P1000/2000,
which is good for four/10 people.
Another option are the huts at Osites
(%0918 591 7171; per person P500).

There are regular boats between Pamilacan
and Baclayon (P30) or a private boat can be
arranged for P300. Boats from Alona Beach
will take you to Pamilican for P1000.
CABILAO ISLAND
%038
Like Balicasag and Pamilacan Islands to the

south, the island of Cabilao in the waters
off Loon (low-on) is an impressively rich
dive site, with two community-run marine
sanctuaries (diving fee P50). Cabilaos waters are home to seven species of shark and
are full of micro-life, including the highprofile pygmy seahorse (Hippocampus bargibanti), which at only 8mm long may be
easier to spot in a diving magazine than in
the wild, where its camouflaged among the
surrounding red coral.
The celebrity seahorse is found on the
house reef, but there is diving, for beginners
to advanced, all around the island. The islands top reef is off the northwestern point,
near the lighthouse. Highly regarded Sea
Explorers (%0917 454 5897; www.sea-explorers.com)
has one of its six Visayan dive centres on
Cabilao.
In addition to diving, a feature of Cabilao
Island is its church, which has what is claimed
to be the countrys biggest stone staircase.
Sleeping
Cabilao Beach Club (%0917 454 5897; www.cabilao
.com; r with fan P1200) The German and Swiss
managed Cabilao Beach Club on the northeastern tip of the island has simple and
clean concrete and thatched cottages with
T H E V I S AYA S
T H E V I S AYA S
268 B O H O L Pa n g l a o I s l a n d
tiled modern bathrooms. The restaurant

has therapeutic sea views.
Polaris Resort (%505 4118, 0918 903 7187; www.po
laris-dive.com; r with fan P600-800, r with air-con P1200; s)
Accommodation at the Polaris ranges from

simple treehouses to more modern concrete
cottages, though all are sparsely furnished.
More expensive rooms have hot water. All
guests can take advantage of the full service
dive facility, boat trips, and the excellent restaurant serving European, Asian and vegetarian meals (P80 to P130). The boat-shaped
cocktail bar is the place for lounging.
La Estrella (%505 4114, 0918 904 4859; www
.laestrella.ph; nipa huts P500-1200) Several basic
bungalows, some A-frame, with cold-water
bathrooms and electricity from 6pm to
midnight, dot this small compound. Bicycles and motorbikes are available for rent.
Sea Explorers Dive Centre is only a few
minutes walk away.
For real budget travellers, Sea Explorers also offers pretty run-down cottages and
rooms (d with fan & cold-water bathroom from P250).

Loon is 27km from Tagbilaran (bus or jeepney P16). To get to Cabilao Island, you must
head several kilometres north from Loon to
Macpoc (a good 20 minutes on a bumpy
road). You can get there by bus or jeepney
(P8) or motorbike (P40). From Macpoc, its
a 15-minute pumpboat ride (P10 but youll
have to wait until the boat is full or else pay
for the empty seats) to the closest port (Talisig) on Cabilao. A tricycle or motorbike will
cost P15 to the resorts. A boat from Macpoc
directly to the resorts will cost around P350.
From either Panglao or Mactan Islands, it
can take two to three hours.
For boats to Loon and Cabilao Island
from Cebu Island, see p254.
BOHOL INTERIOR
%038
Chocolate Hills
Undoubtedly someone high up in the Philippine tourism bureau has decided that the
Chocolate Hills a sea of grassy humps
stretching as far as the horizon, a match
for the mesmerising beauty of Vietnams
Halong Bay are one of the premier tourist
attractions in the entire country. In TV commercials, radio jingles and posters and banners, the Chocolate Hills, often with a cute
and cuddly tarsier in the forefront, receive

as much attention as the countrys beautiful beaches. In reality, unless theyre seen in
optimum viewing conditions a hazy dusk
or dawn they may be a letdown after the
hype, and appear like a series of hilly hazards
on a golf course. The hills, which get their
name from the lawnlike vegetation which
roasts to chocolate brown in the dry season
(December to May), have become a nearubiquitous icon for Bohol. Romantics might
want to believe the legend that they are the
solidified teardrops of a lovelorn giant. Scientists on the other hand say that the 1268
near-identical hills, with sizes ranging from
40m to 120m, are the result of the uplifting
of ancient coral-reef deposits, followed by
erosion and weathering. At any time of year,
you can take fun motorbike tours (P200)
along winding roads to the main viewing
sites, as well as to the lesser-known spots
such as the Eight Sisters Hillocks.
At the Chocolate Hills drop-off point (on
the main road, at the base of the Chocolate
Hills Complex hill), youll find motorbikes
available to whisk you up the hill (P10 one
way), where the views are compromised by
kiosks selling kitschy souvenirs. Of course,
you can also walk up the hill (20 to 30 minutes). The same bikers will take you to and
from Carmen for P15 (one way).
The nearby town of Carmen is home to
Fatima Hills. Pilgrims climb the steps up to
the Our Lady of Fatima statue here every year
on 13 May.
SLEEPING & EATING
Chocolate Hills Complex (%0912 856 1559; r with

fan/air-con from P350/600) This is the only option
if you want to sleep among the hills themselves. Unfortunately, the solid concrete
structure does nothing but detract from the
beauty of the setting. Higher-priced accommodation has hot water, air-con and double
beds, but lacks views of the very sight that
visitors have come to see.
The restaurant looks like a cafeteria and
has uninspired standard Filipino sandwiches and dishes (P25 to P100).
Buses for Carmen (4km north of the Chocolate Hills) leave from the Tagbilaran bus
depot hourly (P53, two hours). From Carmen there are also buses to and from Tali-
bon (P50, two hours) and Tubigon (P40,

1 hours).
Most hotels in Tagbilaran (p262) can organise a hire car to take you to and from
the Chocolate Hills. The average price for
a standard air-con sedan with driver is
P1500. Tours can also be arranged from
Panglao Island.
Loboc
Floating restaurants blasting Frank Sinatra
tunes and other oldies cruise a stretch of
the Loboc River north of the town of the
same name. However even this incongruous soundtrack cant diminish the appeal of
Loboc, poking out from the jungle underbrush, and home to the San Pedro Church (c
1608), the second oldest on Bohol. Cruises
take you upriver to the Tontonan Falls and the
Visayas oldest hydroelectric plant. Along
the banks of the Loboc there are several
souvenir shops and illegally run tarsier
cages, where loads of visitors queue for
snapshots with the cuddly creatures. Youll
be doing the entire species a favour if you
reserve your viewing for the Tarsier Visitors
Centre (right).
In late May to June, Loboc hosts the Balibong Kingking Festival, which honours Our
Lady of Guadalupe.
Nuts Huts (%0920 846 1559; www.nutshuts.com;
dm P250, nipa huts with bathroom P450-600) is a truly
unique place ensconced in the jungle on the
edge of the Loboc River 3km north of Loboc
town. An exception in the Philippines, Nuts
Huts is completely integrated into the environment to the point that the 16 separate
cottages are difficult to spot from the river.
All have balconies, sweeping views and the
occasional eight-legged roommate. The
friendly Belgian couple who run the place
offer excellent travel advice and great food
lots of vegetarian and Euro-Asian delights
(meals P40 to P130) served up in the wonderful dining room/lounge area a few hundred steps up from the cottages. Make use
of guided and/or mapped hikes, mountain
bikes, volleyball, motorbike hire (per day
P500) and river cruises, or simply lounge in
the hammocks and warm, communal vibe.
If youre coming by bus, jeepney, taxi
or tricycle, ask to be let off at Nuts Huts
(theres a big sign on the left of the main
road), about 4km after Loboc on the way
to Carmen. From there, its 750m, around
B O H O L B o h o l I n t e r i o r 271
a 10-minute walk (youll need a torch after

dark, and its strenuous with heavy luggage)
along a rutted dirt path. You can also catch a
Sarimanok pumpboat from the Loboc river
wharf up the Loboc River (per person P50,
minimum two) to the resort. Other companies and boats often try to charge more.
Loboc is about 24km from Tagbilaran
(jeepney or bus P14, taxi about P400). A
motorbike can take you from Tagbilaran
pier for around P400 to P500.
Tarsier Visitors Centre

Whats cute, creepy and looks like the illegitimate offspring of an ill advised drunken
one-night stand between a Gremlin and ET?
Look no further than the Philippine tarsier
(Tarsius syrichta) and the Tarsier Visitors Centre (%0912 516 3375, 0919 874 1120; requested donation
P20; h8am-4pm), located beyond the attractive jungle-fringed town of Corella, near
the village of Sikatuna. This simultaneously
crazy and cuddly-looking little primate can
fit in the palm of your hand yet leap five
metres; rotate its head almost 360 degrees;
move its ears in the direction of sound; and
it has huge imploring eyes, 150 times bigger
than a humans in relation to its body size.
The tarsier is not only one of the worlds
smallest primates and the oldest surviving
member of the primate group at 45 million years young, it is also an endangered
species. The main threats to its survival
are habitat destruction, introduced species,
hunting and the pet trade. While also found
in Samar, Leyte and parts of Mindanao, the
province which is doing the most to promote awareness of the tarsier and attempting to ensure its survival and also the
most likely place visitors are going to see
one of these guys is Bohol. If you want
to know more, contact the Philippine Tarsier
Foundation (PTFI; tarsier@mozcom.com), which is
dedicated to conservation and research.
The visitors centre includes information
boards and audiovisual displays, a captive
breeding programme, a wildlife sanctuary
and hiking trail. The breeding areas are off
limits, but a small patch of forest beside the
centre allows for guided walks and discreet
ogling of several mature tarsiers. This is a
much more sustainable and humane way to
appreciate the tarsier than to pet the caged
animals run by tourist-orientated operations in nearby Loboc.
T H E V I S AYA S
T H E V I S AYA S
270 B O H O L B o h o l I n t e r i o r
Corella is about 10km from Tagbilaran, and

jeepneys and buses head back and forth
all day (P10, 30 minutes) but tricycles to
the centre itself can be scarce. There are a
few jeepneys to Corella from Loboc in the
morning.
To get to the Tarsier Visitors Centre
directly from Tagbilaran, a taxi will cost
around P200 for a return trip (20 minutes
one way). Its also possible to arrange a trip
from Panglao Island (p268).
Bilar & Rajah Sikatuna National Park

Bilar is popular for Logarita Spring (admission
P5; hSat-Thu), a public swimming hole overlooking rice fields. The town, about 40km
east of Tagbilaran (P25 by bus), holds its
annual fiesta in mid-May.
About 500m past the Bilar town hall on
the right-hand side is the turn-off for Logarita Spring and the poorly maintained Rajah
Sikatuna National Park (RSNP; admission P100), an
immense 9000 hectares of native molave
forest and grasslands, kilometres of haphazardly marked trails, more than 100 caves,
and a dubious camping area (per person P20). Its
neglect is unfortunate, especially because
its potentially prime bird-watching territory and home to tarsiers, flying lemurs,
civet cats, monitor lizards and monkeys.
The crew at nearby Nuts Huts (p271) may
be able to suggest walks.
Sagbayan Peak
Even though the panorama of identical
mounds rising amid rice fields and coconut groves from the Sagbayan Peak viewpoint
complex (admission P10) doesnt rival the views
around Chocolate Hills, you can see all the
way to the ocean to the north and the drive
there itself is worth the cost of admission.
This is the place for those who like their nature with a side helping of 3m-high replicas
of dinosaurs and cartoon characters (Daffy
Duck, Bugs Bunny and the like), and loud
disco music. Public transport is available
from Carmen to Sagbayan, which is near one
of the poorer municipalities on the island.
Antequera
Just out of Antequera (ahn-tee-care-a), about
20km from Tagbilaran (bus or jeepney P11),
are Mag-aso and Inambacan Falls, the largest
falls on the island, as well as some of Bohols
best caves. Cave guides can be tracked down

in Antequera itself, or in Tagbilaran.
The town has its annual fiesta in early
October, but comes alive every Sunday,
when basket weavers from nearby hills
bring their woven creations to market; aim
to get to Antequera by 7am or 8am to avoid
the rush.
Alburquerque
This small coastal town is well known for
its magnificent church and belfry, built in
1886. There are also several waterfalls on
the edge of town. Fiesta time is early May.
Alburquerque is about 12km from Tagbilaran (bus or jeepney P10).
Baclayon
About 6km from Tagbilaran (bus or jeepney P8), Baclayon was founded by a pair
of Spanish Jesuit priests in 1595. Baclayon
Church, the countrys oldest built from stone,
was built a year later. The towns fiesta is in
early December, and boats go from here
to nearby Pamilacan Island for P30, or Pamilican Island Dolphin & Whale Watching
Tours can pick you up for their tours from
here (see p269).
Bool
At Bool (bo-oll), about 3km east of Tagbilaran, youll find a monument to a
blood-compact mateship ritual known as
sanduguan (literally one blood). This is
where, on 16 March 1565, Spanish conquistador Miguel Lopez de Legazpi and Boholano chieftain Rajah Sikatuna downed a cup
of each others blood in one of the first
symbolic gestures of Western-Eastern accord in the Philippines.
BOHOLS COASTAL ROAD

%038
Tubigon
The ramshackle fishing town of Tubigon
(to-bee-gon), in the middle of Bohols lush
northwestern coast, is well served by daily
fastcraft to and from Cebu City. Theres not a
lot on offer here for travellers, although it is a
handy access point for cutting across Bohol if
youre in a hurry to see the Chocolate Hills.
Tinangnan Beach Resort & Lodging House
(%237 2267; r with fan & shared bathroom P200-250)
is set upon stilts and has a rickety bamboo

floor. Its among the intertidal mangroves, a
five-minute tricycle ride (P5) north from the

central bus and market area. It also has a restaurant serving basic seafood meals (P50).
Tubigon Shipping has frequent departures for Cebu from 6am to 6pm (P120, two
hours). Kinswell Shipping leaves once daily.
Buses from Tubigons market area (near
the pier) run all day on the way to Tagbilaran
(P31, 1 hours) via towns such as Calape
(P7, 15 minutes) and Loon (P16, 45 minutes).
If youre heading straight for the Chocolate
Hills from Tubigon, buses inland leave regularly for Carmen (P40, 1 hours).
Buenavista
Buenavista has a friendly and picturesque
market on a mangrove inlet. From here, or
at the river crossing 3km south on the main
road, you can buy the local delicacy urchin
gonads. In many countries, including Japan
and the USA, top dollar is paid for a treat
of nads. But for you theyre going cheap
at P50 for a 375mL bottle.
For something even more special, you
can go on a Cambuhat Village Ecotour, a cruise
up the mangrove-lined Daet River from
Buenavista to the village of Cambuhat where
youll see an oyster farm and raffia weaving,
and enjoy a delicious seafood lunch. The
tour takes six hours, costs P650 (less for
group bookings) and includes transfers from
Tagbilaran. Call Segundo Aparece (%0919 296
3513) for more information, or contact Bohol
Travel & Tours (%411 3840; Sarabia-Co-Torralba Bldg;
Carlos P Garcia St) in Tagbilaran.
Talibon
pop 54,000
Talibon, on the north coast, is one of Bohols busiest centres. Its long pier has regular boats to and from Cebu, as well as to Jau
(how) Island nearby (P5), however theres
no accommodation on Jau. All transport
leaves from the market on the main street
before the wharf.
Sea View Lodge (%515 0154; s/d with fan P75/150,
r with air-con P500), on the main street, is probably the best accommodation in town. Its
not well signposted the entrance is to
the right of, and behind, Chelseas bakery.
Petongs Place (h6am-6pm; meals P30), a couple of doors up from Sea View Lodge, has
cheap and decent seafood meals.
See p238 for boats to and from Cebu.
From Tagbilaran (P80, four hours), the
B O H O L B o h o l s C o a s t a l R o a d 273
Chocolate Hills is almost exactly at the halfway point (P50, two hours). There are also
regular buses to Tubigon (P50, two hours).
Ubay
pop 60,000
At the opposite end of Bohol to Tagbilaran, remote, overgrown Ubay is the islands
largest metropolis after the capital. It has a
lively market on the sea, just near the wharf,
selling everything from woven goods to ice
cream. There are plenty of cheap Filipino
eateries on the waters edge. Ubay offers
uncharted tourism territory around nearby
Lapinig Island. No official accommodation
exists, but organising homestays through
the village captain is possible.
J&N Shipping has boats to Cebu (P100,
six hours, twice daily). Daily boats also run
each morning to Maasin, Bato and Hilongos on Leyte (all around P100, three hours).
Buses run between Ubay and Talibon, and
Ubay and Jagna.
Guindalman, Anda, Candijay & Jagna

Though the coastal road from Guindalman
to Candijay is almost completely sealed, its
still in bad shape, making this remote mountainous headland out of the way for most
tourists. At Guindalman, there are healthy
coral reefs good for snorkelling or diving.
Anda is a blink-and-youll-miss-it town
situated on a stretch of sandy beach. As
the surrounding hilly land is unsuitable for
rice, corn is the staple food and youll see
copious quantities growing and drying on
the roadside.
On the top of the headland at Candijay,
ask at the mayors office for a tour of the
mangrove bamboo boardwalk. There are 32 species of mangrove here and a thriving ecosystem full of mud crabs, oysters and birds.
Jagna (hahg-na) is a largish fishing village
on Bohols southern coast, about 63km east
of Tagbilaran. It has vaguely sandy beaches
and a colourful flower-filled market. Jagnas
fiesta kicks off on 29 September.
SLEEPING
If you venture out to this part of Bohol

the best choice of accommodation is to be
found around Anda and Guindalman.
Coco White Beach Resort (%0921 602 0702; www
.cocowhite-beach.com; Basdio, Guindalman; bungalows with
fan from P1500) This Swiss-operated, landscaped
T H E V I S AYA S
T H E V I S AYA S
272 B O H O L B o h o l s C o a s t a l R o a d
N E G R O S 275
Negros
NEGROS ORIENTAL
There are good roads and virtually nonstop
bus services around the coast, so visiting
the myriad resorts and natural attractions
of Negros Oriental is as simple and pleasurable as helping yourself to a buffet. From
the picturesque provincial capital of Dumaguete, everything is within easy reach.
Dumaguete
%035 / pop 102,300
If you were beginning to develop an aversion to regional centres, youre in for a pleasant surprise with Dumaguete. Its a nice
place. Seriously. Everyone raves about the
Rizal Blvd promenade, and its true theres
something genuinely charming about this
harbourfront quarter mile: the faux-antique
gas lamps; the grassy median strip. But
it
Stra
aras
Isla Puti
Guim
Dumangas
Silay
Escalante
Port Danao
PATAG
NATIONAL PARK
Patag
Talisay
Iloilo City
To Manila
To
Tabuelan
Toboso
Tuburan
Jordan
Granada
Bacolod
Suclaran
Mt Mandalagan
(1880m)
Murcia
GUIMARAS
Bago
Guimaras
Island
Mambucal
Ma-ao
Pulupandan
Calatrava
San Carlos
MT KANLAON
NATIONAL
PARK
La Carlota
Guintubdan Kanlaon
Volcano
(2465m)
Sipaway
Island
Canlaon
La Castellana
Toledo
Valle Hermoso
To Manila
Hinigaran
Talisay
ait
Binalbagan
Str
Isabela
Guihulngan
Carcar
Himamaylan
To Iligan;
Cagayan de Oro
(Mindanao)
CEBU
on
NEGROS
OCCIDENTAL
Ta
PANAY
GULF
La Libertad
Ilog
Jimalalud
Tangil
To
Cebu
City
CEBU
Kabankalan
Linaon
Danjugan
Island
Moalboal
Argao
Ayongon
Bindoy
Montillia
Sipalay
Mabinay
Punta Ballo
Hinoba-an
Str
ait
Bulata
Sugar
(Langub)
Beach
ol
The diverse, ruggedly beautiful island of

Negros is a place wed unhesitatingly recommend to any traveller. Wedged between
Panay and Cebu, its treated by too many as
a mere stepping stone. Surprisingly few stop
to refuel in the charming (yes, you heard
right) campus town of Dumaguete, or to
enjoy its surrounding dive resorts. Word
is only now spreading about the stunning
beach havens around Sipalay, on the remote
southwest coast. And very few foreigners
make it as far as the forested hill stations
of Mt Kanlaon, or the living museums of
Silay. Which is all rather strange because,
wherever you look, youll find plenty on
Negros to make you want to linger.
For more than a century, Negros was
famed as the sugar bowl of the Philippines.
From the 1850s, the majority of arable land
was turned over to sugarcane plantations.
In both the cities and the smaller towns,
PANAY
Sagay
Victorias
Boh
pop 3.26 million
Cadiz
ILOILO
NEGROS
Bantayan
Island
Lakawan Island
ANTIQUE

Bacolod and Dumaguete airports are serviced by flights from Manila and Cebu City.
See p278 and p285 for details.
Negros busiest ports are Bacolod and
Dumaguete, but a number of smaller towns
are also accessible by boat. Major connections include ports on Cebu, Bohol, Mindanao, Panay and Siquijor. See the individual
destination sections for information on
boat services.
30 km
20 miles
Bantayan
ive
Cebu Ferries has boats between Jagna and

Cagayan de Oro on Wednesday and Sunday
(P250, four hours), and between Jagna and
Butuan at midnight Sundays (Nasipit port;
P280, five hours), on Mindanao. A slower,
cheaper alternative is the once-a-week Sulpicio boats for Nasipit (P211, seven hours)
and Cagayan de Oro (P175, five hours).
Buses travel daily to and from Tagbilaran
(P37, one hour), Anda (P20, 1 hours),
Ubay (P35, 2 hours) and many other
coastal towns. They leave and arrive outside
the Jagna church.
0
0
NEGROS
gR
many historic buildings still stand testament to the fortunes made by the sugar
barons. The Sugarlandia phenomenon is
still very evident in the north of the country, where convoys of trucks loaded with
cane rumble endlessly down the highway,
through a sea of silver-green cane fields.
Like any monocrop economy, though, Negros is exposed to the vicissitudes of a fickle
market. When prices for sugar plummeted
in the 1980s, Negros stocks sank with it. The
haciendas fell into disrepair and thousands
were forced out of work. Today, Negros
is increasingly looking to tourism, among
other industries, to revive its fortunes.
The island is divided into two provinces
lying either side of a central mountain
range: Negros Oriental (the capital is Dumaguete) is to the east, and Negros Occidental (the capital is Bacolod) is to the west.
Apart from English, the Visayan dialects of
Ilonggo (spoken by around 80% of people),
Cebuano and Hiligaynon dominate.
Ilo
complex has nipa huts and larger brick and

thatched-bamboo cottages, suitable for families or groups, with large bamboo beds and
modern bathrooms. A bar and restaurant set
on a cliff overlook a narrow beach. Theres a
diving facility on the grounds.
Flower Beach Resort (%0918 579 6166; www
.flower-beach.com; r from P2200; ai) A Germanowned resort set on a beautiful white sandy
beach good for snorkelling. The concrete
and thatched-bamboo rooms have clean,
tiled floors and wooden furniture. Theres a
full-service dive centre which takes advantage of the 14km offshore reef.
Manjuyod
la
Tab
P l at e a u
Bais City
NEGROS
ORIENTAL
Daco
Island
Panglao
Island
Tanjay
Pamplona
Tolong
Bay
To
Tagbilaran
(Bohol)
Amlan
Bato
Sumilon Island
BOHOL
Tampi
Santander
TWIN LAKES San Jos Lilo-an
NATIONAL
Cambaloctot
PARK
Bayawan
Lake
Sibulan
Santa Catalina
Balinsasayao
Dumaguete
Valencia
Mt
Bacong
Talinis
Larena
(1904m)
Siquijor
Dauin
Siquijor
Island
SIQUIJOR
Mayabon
Malatapay
Crossing
Zamboanguita
Apo Island
Siaton
Bonbonon
Tambobo
Bay
To Dapitan;
Iligan (Mindanao)
T H E V I S AYA S
T H E V I S AYA S
274 N E G R O S N e g r o s O r i e n t a l
N E G R O S N e g r o s O r i e n t a l 277
Dumaguete
0
0
DUMAGUETE
300 m
0.2 miles
Airport (2km)
To Lab-as Restaurant
(500m); Silliman
Beach (1km)
To Sibulan (5km);
Tampi (16km);
Bais City (40km)
16
coa Rd
V Alde
14
Silliman
University
St
re
As youd expect from a university city, there

is no shortage of Internet cafs. The cheaper
ones charge P20 to P25 per hour.
Mansons Place (Perdices St; per hr P30; h8am37
36
Katada St
San Juan St
24
27
19
Santa Rosa St
Cervantes St
34
Santa Catali
na St
Acias Pinili St
Colon St
Public
Square
20
Luke
Banic
To Valencia (6km)
To Private Garden
Resort (2km);
Bacong (5km);
Dauin (12km);
Zamboanguita
(25km)
uth
So
30
Dumaguete
Cockpit
Rd
River
Wrigh
t St
Blvd
Perdices St
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

Anthropology Museum & Centre for
the Study of Philippine Living
Culture..................................15 C3
Scuba Ventures...........................16 B1
Rizal
Ma Cristina St
Real St
Tower
35
32
midnight) Charlie dont surf? Oh yes he does! Spotless as a

Jollibee, with fast machines, cheap Filipino food (from P50)
and espresso coffee.
Why Not (Rizal Blvd; per hr P50; h8am-2am)
Expensive, but the only place where you can have mango
daiquiris brought to you while you browse.
Main
Wharf
Paradise Travel (%422 9820; Rizal Blvd)

Why Not Travel (%225 9028; Rizal Blvd)
SIGHTS
The Anthropology Museum & Centre for the

Study of Philippine Living Culture (admission free;
h8am-noon & 2-5pm Mon-Fri) has displays including artefacts from Siquijor and ancient
Chinese bits-and-pieces dug up on a variety of Philippine islands. Its in the central
campus area. Enter from Hibbard Ave, the
extension of Perdices St, and head past the
Silliman Cafeteria to the old building with
the staircase at the front.
Other things to see within Dumaguete
itself include the coral-stone Bell Tower (cnr
Perdices & Colon Sts), built 1754 to 1776, and the
large and lively public market on Real St.
What the locals and tourists spend most
of their time doing is strolling along the
780m-long promenade on Rizal Blvd, a scenic walk by day and the centre of the towns
nightlife.
Medical Services
26
28
Plaza
INFORMATION
13
Department
Bank of Philippine Islands.............1 B4
Store
Noblefranca
Bank of Philippine Islands.............2 C4
St
Chinabank....................................3 B4
4
Datcom International Telephone
25
San Jos St
6
2
Office.......................................4 B4
Dumaguete Tourism Office..........5 C4
Eight Wonders Tours....................6 B4
29
9
Equitable PCI Bank.......................7 B5
33
18
V Locsin St
Equitable PCI Bank.......................8 B3
Manson's Place............................9 C4
22
21
3
Metrobank.................................10 B4 10
11
St
Legaspi St
Paradise Travel.........................(see 26)
es
Ter
ro
1
Post Office.................................11 C4
Ped
Provincial Tourism Office ..........12 A2
Quezon
Public
Burgos St
Park
PT&T Telephone Office..............13 C3
Market
Taft
Silliman University Medical
Cathedral
St
5
Center....................................14 B1
Bell
Why Not Travel.......................(see 29)
31
15
Silliman Ave
23
Internet Access
Aquino
Freedom
Park
Provincial
Capitol
Building
INFORMATION
Hibbard Ave
12
17
Flo
there are other things to like about Dumaguete: its big but it feels small, and its
less congested, less polluted and being a
university town far more hip and urbane
than your average provincial capital.
That said, theres not actually a lot to do
here and, after a couple meals and a night
or two on the town, most travellers will
want to move on.
SLEEPING
Harold's Mansion Tourist Inn......17
Honeycomb Tourists Inn ...........18
La Residencia Al Mar..................19
OK Pensionnne House ..............20
Plaza Maria Luisa.......................21
Vintage Inn................................22
Worldview Pension Plaza...........23
C1
C4
C3
C5
C4
B4
B3
EATING
Cafe Memento ..........................24
Chin Loong Restaurant..............25
Coco Amigos ............................26
Food Stalls.................................27
Persian Palate ............................28
Why Not................................... 29
C3
C4
C3
C3
C3
C4
ENTERTAINMENT
Why Not Disco........................(see 29)
TRANSPORT
Ceres Bus Liner Station...............30 B6
Cokaliong Shipping....................31 D2
Delta Fast Ferry Office...............32 D2
George & Peter Lines...............(see 31)
Jeepneys to San Jose & Tampi....33 B4
Jeepneys to Valencia..................34 B5
Jeepneys to Zamboanguita........ 35 A6
Montenegro Shipping..............(see 31)
North Bus Terminal....................36 C2
OceanJet................................... 37 D2
Raymart Motorcycles ..............(see 20)
Silliman University Medical Centre (%225 0841;
ACTIVITIES
V Aldecoa Rd)
Local travel agencies (left) can organise a

host of full-day or half-day tours, including
the Wednesday Malatapay market, dolphin
watching, Twin Lakes and Mt Kanlaon.
Even though the out-of-town resorts
offer a more ambient place to stay and dive,
if you are short on time drop into Scuba Ventures (%0917 314 3402; Hibbard Ave), where PADI
staff instructor Snoopy can arrange diving
on any of the surrounding reefs, including
Apo Island (from P3000).
Money
There are several banks in town with ATMs.

Bank of Philippine Islands (BPI; Perdices St) Theres
also a branch on San Jos St.
Chinabank (Legaspi St)

Equitable PCI Bank (Perdices St)
Metrobank (Real St)
Post
Post office (cnr Santa Catalina & Pedro Teres Sts) The
main post office is near Quezon Park.
SLEEPING
Telephone
Most would agree that the place to be is

Rizal Blvd, or as close to it as you can get.
Datcom telephone office (Perdices St) Next to Jollibee.

PT&T telephone office (Perdices St)
Budget
Tourist Information
Dumaguete Tourism Office (%225 0549; City Hall,

Santa Catalina St; h8am-noon & 1-5pm Mon-Fri) The
office has a few pamphlets that it can dole out.
Provincial Tourism Office (%225 1825) Information about Negros Oriental. Located behind the Provincial
Capitol Building.
Travel Agencies
Dumaguete has no shortage of travel agents.

Eight Wonders Tours (%422 9787; basement, Lee
Super Plaza, Perdices St)
Budget rooms have private cold-water

bathroom unless otherwise noted.
Vintage Inn (%225 1076, 422 9106; Legaspi St; s/d
with fan P220/330, with air-con & hot water from P330/495)
Opposite the market, this is an excellent

budget option. It has basic, clean rooms, is
a short walk from Rizal Blvd, and feels safe
and well set up.
OK Pensionnne House (%225 5925; Santa Rosa St;
d with fan/air-con from P275/440) A little out of the
way, this place is just what it says it is: OK. It
has an enormous variety of rooms the more
expensive (P550 and up) are a big step up
T H E V I S AYA S
T H E V I S AYA S
276 N E G R O S D u m a g u e t e
from the cheapies in terms of quality. Theres

an attached Internet caf (P20 per hour).
Private Garden Resort (%225 0658; www.private
gardenresort.com; Noreco Rd, Mangnao; d with fan & shared
bathroom P400, r with hot-water bathroom, cable TV &
fan/air-con P650/900) Something different. This
laid-back expat refuge has scuba instruction

in a variety of languages (open-water diving
certificate US$330), motorbike rental (P250
to P800 per day), pool tables and table tennis. Or you can just lounge on the porch
with the rest. They claim to have the best
burgers and Mexican in town (from P150).
Its near the coast, though not on the beach,
out of the hullabaloo of the city. Head 3km
south from town and turn left at the Shell
service station (P7 by tricycle).
Harolds Mansion Tourist Inn (% 225 8000;
haroldsmansion@yahoo.com; 205 Hibbard Ave; s/d with fan
P300/385, with air-con, hot water & cable TV P495/605)
Looks less like a mansion and more like

a giant pink cake. Its a 10-minute walk
from the main shopping area, but it does
have very clean, well-priced rooms and free
airport pick-up.
Midrange
Midrange rooms have private hot-water

bathroom, air-con and cable TV, and rates
include breakfast.
La Residencia al Mar (%225 7100; lresidencia
_ygh@yahoo.com; Rizal Blvd; s/d from P1150/1265; a)
A cosy and tastefully renovated Spanish villa with an unbeatable position. The
building has all original timbers and fittings. Rooms come with all the mod-cons
and the dearer rooms have balconies and
great water views. Don Atilano restaurant
is on the ground floor.
Honeycomb Tourists Inn (%225 1181/2; Rizal
Blvd; s/d from P580/900; a) Like La Residencia
al Mar, this is a renovated Spanish villa.
Though not as plush, it still has spotless
rooms the ones with views are superb
value. The drawback is noise from Honeycombs own Caf Medina downstairs and
Why Not next door.
Plaza Maria Luisa (%225 3267; plazamar@mozcom
.com; Legaspi St; s/d from P700/900; a) Overlooking
the attractive Quezon Park, this very welllocated business hotel is often full. Staff are
polite and very helpful, though the fawn
and mint-green colour scheme looks like
it was inspired by an ice cream. There is a
good travel agency within the hotel.
Worldview Pension Plaza (%225 4110; Perdices St;

s/d from P550/750; a) A business hotel on busy
Perdices St. Rooms are plain with all the
mod-cons, and the staff is professional. The
room tariff includes a Filipino breakfast.
EATING
Chin Loong Restaurant (%422 6933, 225 4491; cnr San

Jos St & Rizal Blvd; meals from P80) Offers big, cheap
servings of tasty Filipino-Chinese food, and
great service. Try the special dinner if youre
hungry birds-nest soup, fried rice, chop
suey, two mains and a soft drink (P135).
Why Not (%225 4488; Rizal Blvd; meals around
P220; h6am-2am) Its a one-stop-shop at Why
Not. Hands down the most popular dayand-night haunt for tourists and expats, it
includes a Swiss deli, diner, bar, pool hall,
Internet caf and disco.
Coco Amigos (%226 1207; Rizal Blvd; meals from
P150) Cocos combination of a harbourfront
location, festive colour scheme and tame
Mexican food has seen it rival Why Not
for popularity with foreign clientele. It has
a good vegetarian selection.
Cafe Memento (Silliman Ave; espresso from P25) A
humble, bohemian caf serving coffee and
light meals. Outside tables have glimpses
of the harbour.
Persian Palate (%422 8165; San Juan St; meals
P90-180; h11am-11pm) People in need of a veggie fix flock to this Indian/Middle Eastern
chain restaurant.
An unpromising stretch of road brings
you to a surprisingly upscale string of seafood restaurants overlooking the harbour,
including Lab-as Seafood Restaurant (%225
3536; Flores St; meals around P250).
One of the cheapest food options is the

nightly food stalls at the top end of Rizal
Blvd, which serve tempura fish and squidballs with sweet chilli sauce (P3 per stick).
ENTERTAINMENT
Everyone heads for Why Not disco (Rizal Blvd;

entry P70; h9pm-late), which warms up around
10pm when the uni students start to pour
in, closely followed by the expats. It has a
dance floor, lounge area and pool tables.
Boat
At the pier, youll find the offices of OceanJet (%226 1085), Delta Fast Ferry (%420 1111),
Cokaliong Shipping (%225 3588), George & Peter
Lines (%225 2345) and Montenegro Shipping
(%422 3632).
The SuperCat fastcraft suspended all services from Dumaguete in 2005. There were
plans to recommence services some time in
2006.
Cokaliong Shipping, OceanJet and George
& Peter Lines all service the Cebu City
Dumaguete route. See the Cebu Ferries
table, p238.
The quickest, cheapest way to get to
Cebu Island particularly Moalboal from
Dumaguete is via the Negros port of Tampi,
45 minutes from Dumaguete by bus (P15),
where boats go to and from Bato on Cebu
(P47, 20 minutes) all day.
SuperFerry (%225 0734) has a weekly service
to Bacolod, Negros Occidental (P180, 10 to
12 hours) and Iligan, Mindanao (P560, six
hours). It also has three services a week to
Manila (P1405, 36 hours).
OceanJet has a daily fastcraft service to
Tagbilaran, Bohol (P520, 1 hours).
George & Peter Lines has a daily morning boat to Dapitan, Mindanao (P130, four
hours). Cokaliong goes to Dapitan most
mornings (P185, 3 hours).
Delta Fast Ferry travels to Siquijor town
(P150, one hour) four times daily.
Montenegro sails to Larena (P140, 2
hours) daily.
Bus & Jeepney
The Ceres Bus Liner terminal (South Rd) is a short

tricycle ride from town (P5). It services
routes both north and south, including
Zamboanguita (P25, 30 minutes) and Bais
City (P40, one hour).
There is a smaller bus terminal next to
the pier that does short hauls north, including Bais City (P30, 1 hours), Tampi
(P15, 45 minutes) and Camboloctot (for
Twin Lakes; P15, 30 minutes). There is also
a jeepney stand on the corner of Real St and
V Locsin St that services the same routes.
For buses between Dumaguete and Bacolod, see p286.
Air
Air Philippines has two flights daily from

Dumaguete to Manila (one hour). Cebu Pacific does the same flight once daily.
GETTING AROUND
A tricycle into town from Dumaguete airport costs around P8. There are tricycles
everywhere and they charge P5 for trips

around town being a tourist, however,
you should settle the price clearly before
you take off. For slightly longer trips, you
might want to offer P8 to P10.
Raymart Motorcycles (%247 4114, 0910 247 4114;
Santa Rosa St) rents out motorcycles for around
P450 per day.
Twin Lakes National Park

About 20km northwest of Dumaguete, the
twin crater lakes of Balinsasayao and Danao
offer some of the most scenic hiking in the
Visayas. The area is virgin forest and full of
wildlife, from monkeys to rare orchids. Its
also the traditional home of the indigenous
Bukidnon people. If you want information
on the park, or to arrange a guide, inquire
at the municipal building on the highway
in the centre of Sibulan. Tour groups in
Dumaguete run trips to Twin Lakes (p277),
as does Planet Action (p256).
The entry point for the 15km track to
Twin Lakes is at Cambaloctot on the coastal
road. A hubel-hubel to the lake from here
will cost P150. To get to Cambaloctot from
Dumaguete, catch one of several daily buses
from the north bus terminal (P15) or a
jeepney from Real St.
Bais City
%035 / pop 68,115
About 40km north of Dumaguete, Bais is

one of the countrys top spots for dolphin and
whale watching. More species of cetacean
(including killer whales) have been seen in
Taon Straits waters, separating Negros and
Cebu, than anywhere else in the Visayas.
While whale sightings are not to be depended upon, especially outside of their
March-to-October migration season, spinner dolphins are quite common throughout
the year. Bais City tourism office (%541 5161; city
plaza) can organise a boat P2500 for a 15seater boat, P3000 for a 20-seater as can
most resorts.
If you dont have the time or money for a
boat, there is a whale-watching wharf located
at Barangay Capistuhan (P20 by tricycle
from the plaza).
If the whales are a no-show, Plan B is a
7km-long sandbar stuck out in the middle of
the sea that boats can take you to frolic on.
Plan C is bird-watching. The bay is home
to several mangrove-fringed islands making
T H E V I S AYA S
T H E V I S AYA S
up a bird sanctuary, and the citys residents

have built a network of raised walkways
through the mangrove forests from which
you can view the birds.
One of the finest hotels in Negros is the
historical La Planta Hotel (%541 5755, %/fax
541 5756; Mabini St; d P850-1050; as). This 1910
landmark has large, bright, luxury twins and
doubles with air-con, hot water, telephone
and cable TV. The hotel has a wonderfully
antique international restaurant (meals P75
to P150) take the time to study the photos
and memorabilia around the walls while
you wait for your food.
Guihulngan
%035 / pop 10,273
Its a long trip to little Guihulngan (gee-oolnyan). By bus its three hours from Dumaguete (P100) or 4 hours from Bacolod
(P155). Or you can take the ferry from
remote Tangil, on the west coast of Cebu
(P50, 1 hours, five services daily). However you get here, if youre in the market for
simple make that Spartan accommodation and dirt-cheap diving, youve come to
the right place.
Run by Aussie Mr Keith, Dive Negros
(%0915 255 3663; www.divenegros.com; nipa hut with
shared bathroom P150) is about 15 minutes past
the township, on the National Hwy. It is a

plain concrete compound with a breakwater
and dive centre, and is within easy reach of
some prime dive sites in the Taon Strait,
including Hilaitan marine sanctuary. Fun dives
go for US$16, and an open-water course
for US$200.
Valencia
%035 / pop 24,365
If you head 6km southeast from Dumaguete

along a tree-lined road youll find yourself at the foot of Mt Talinis (which means
pointed). The mountains twin peaks are
also evocatively known as Cuernos de Negros (Horns of Negros). Valencia is a clean
and leafy town with a large, grassed central
square. About 2km from the town centre, in
a baryo called Tejeros (te-heh-ro) is Banica
Valley, a richly forested area ideal for swimming, hiking and overnight stays.
Four kilometres from Valencia are the
glorious, 30m Casaroro Falls (admission P10),
which are most refreshing after the climb
down the 335 steps to get to them. The best
way to get to the falls other than walking

is to hire a hubel-hubel from the market
to take you to the steps (P100). Be warned,
though, the last few hundred metres of the
ride are extremely rough and treacherous.
SLEEPING & EATING
Forest Camp (%423 4017, %/fax 225 2991; www.geo

cities.com/campforest; huts P1000; s) With Mt Talinis towering overhead and set on a choice
stretch of river, Forrest Camp has three
landscaped pools and one natural one.
The stylish native-style huts have fan and
private cold-water bathroom, and Filipino
food, including delicious native chicken
(P150), is available at a small restaurant.
Theres also a camping ground (P150 per person)
and guided treks to Casaroro Falls (P200,
1 hours return) and to Lake Nailig (P600,
six to seven hours), near the top of Mt Talinis, where there is a cottage available with
floor mats (P50 per person).
For nonguests, swimming and sightseeing at Forest Camp costs P60/20 per adult/
child.
Jeepneys run all day between Dumaguete

and Valencia (P9, 15 minutes). You can hire
a hubel-hubel from Valencia to Banica Valley or Forest Camp for about P20.
Dauin
%035 / pop 5867
Dauin (da-win) is the largest of the southern

towns and the administrative guardian of the
beautiful divers haven of Apo (opposite).
There is a pleasant brown-sand beach and
good snorkelling over the drop-off about 20m
out from shore. About 1km south of Dauin is
the Marine Reserve of Masaplod Norte.
This is a town that takes its diving very
seriously.
SLEEPING & EATING
All the places to stay in Dauin are uppermidrange dive resorts: air-con, cable TV,
hot water, breakfasts, an international restaurant, airport transfers and free shuttles
to Dumaguete are all pretty much standard.
Check out their websites for accommodation-and-dive packages.
Pura Vida Beach & Dive Resort (%425 2284;
s US$31-45, d US$36-50; as) Affiliated with
the Philippines-wide dive company Sea
Explorers (www.sea-explorers.com), this is

a top-quality dive resort and health spa.
Atlantis Dive Resort (%424 0578; www.atlantis
hotel.com; s/d from US$45/55; as) The sister resort of the luxurious Atlantis Beach Resort
in Puerto Galera, this keeps to the same
high standards. It has particularly lush gardens and a world-class kitchen (meals P250
and up).
El Dorado Beach Resort (%425 2274; www.eldo
radobeachresort.com; r US$26-82; as ) Stockstandard dive resort on a deep lot with comfortable, Spanish missionstyle rooms.
Malatapay
%035
Malatapay is best known by tourists for

its huge and lively market, where every
Wednesday morning villagers, fishermen
and Bukidnon tribespeople can be found
loudly bartering their goods and feasting
on lechon.
Malatapay is also known for being the
departure point for Apo Island. Charter
boats for Apo (P1000, 30 minutes, maximum five people) leave from the beach in
front of the market.
Sick of dive resorts? Low-key, friendly
Malatapay Beach Resort (%426 1087, 0918 640
9467; www.negrosbeach.com; cottages from P650) has
a great little brown-sand beach, and thats
where the emphasis is although they do
do diving as well (Apo dive trips without/
with equipment P2200/2700). The cheaper
of the comfy cottages share a cold-water
bathroom with another cottage, while the
beachside ones have a private cold-water
bathroom. The food (meals around P150)
is fresh and tasty all day long.
Apo Island
%035 / pop 684
Rugged and volcanic, the little 72-hectare

island of Apo is fast becoming known for
having some of the best diving in the Philippines. And if thats not enough for you,
there are also some gorgeous white-sand
beaches and great short walks. The islands
fiesta is held 4 to 5 April.
The Apo Island Marine Reserve & Fish Sanctuary (part of the Negros Oriental Marine
Conservation Park), a 15,000-sq-m protected area in the southeastern corner, is
one of the most successful and best-run
marine reserves in the Philippines. It con-
tains a vital marine breeding ground and

is a favourite site among divers. A diving/
snorkelling entrance fee of P200/100 goes
towards maintenance of the sanctuary.
SLEEPING & EATING
Libertys (%0921 331 6325, 0920 238 5704; www

.apoisland.com; dm P300, r P800-1600) Perched high
above the beach and village, this is the place
that most divers head for. Pauls Diving offers top instruction (open-water course
US$315), which is one attraction, but the
friendly, laid-back atmosphere and wide
range of well-designed rooms with excellent
views are equally as memorable. The food
(pizza and pasta around P220) is as excellent
and varied. Ring ahead for transfers from
Malatapay (P200), and Dumaguete (P500).
Apo Island Beach Resort (%035-422 9820 in Dumaguete; paradise@glinesnx.com.ph; dm P400, r/cottages from
P1200/1800) Claims the best white sandy beach
and completes the package with a quiet resort atmosphere. Stylish Spanish mission
rooms and cottages have fan and private
cold-water bathroom. The simple menu has
good Filipino food with some international
additions (P120 to P200). Dive guiding (but
no instruction) is offered. The phone number
above is for Paradise Travel in Dumaguete;
all bookings are through this agency.
Apo Island is about 25km south of Dumaguete. The departure point is from Malatapay Beach, where you must charter a boat
(P1000, 30 minutes, maximum five people).
Try to go with a group so you can split
the fare.
Bonbonon
%035
Southwest of Malatapay, and accessed by a

9km dirt road and 108 steps (we counted),
humble little Kookoos Nest Beach Cottages
(%0919 695 8085; www.kookoosnest.com.ph; huts with
shared/private bathroom from P350/450) vies as the
most isolated resort in Negros. It is run

by an entertaining English couple, Jamie
and Nikki, and situated on a tiny whitesand cove, with four simple bamboo huts
perched above the waters edge. The restaurant and dive centre are equally simple and
idyllic. Activities include day trips to Apo
Island (P1500, maximum four people) and
diving (with equipment US$20).
T H E V I S AYA S
T H E V I S AYA S
Its P150 to get here from Zamboanguita

by hubel-hubel, or management will pick
you up from Mayabon Crossing on the
highway for P400.
NEGROS OCCIDENTAL
The chief attractions of the Occident are
the resorts on the flanks of Mt Kanlaon, the
living museums of Silay, and the stunning,
white-sand retreats around Sipalay. The
north of the province is the heartland of
Negros sugar-growing industry.
Bacolod
%034 / pop 429,076
With an airport, a sea port and a host of bus

and jeepney terminals, Bacolod is little more
than a transport hub to most travellers. But
if you have the time, it does have a couple of
sights you can see inside of a day.
There are some small bookshops (La Salle Ave)

opposite University St La Salle.
Wherever you are in town, Internet cafs
are never far away, especially if youre near
the university area. For bar and pool tables
thrown in, visit the cafs on the east side
of 21st St; see p285. Rates are P20 to P25
per hour.
SIGHTS
In spite of a dire economic climate, Bacolod

is home to two of the more impressive notfor-profit enterprises in the Visayas a testament to drive and civic-mindedness of the
Negrenese. They are to be found in the streets
surrounding the neoclassical Provincial Capitol
Building, which has a forecourt that features
modern sculptures and a large fish pond.
The lovingly curated Negros Museum (%434
faces), with participants wearing elaborate

smiley masks and dancing in the streets.
SLEEPING
If you want to be close to the swankiest bars

and restaurants, and as far from the dust
and grime as you can get, the place to stay is
uptown. On the other hand, downtown is a
lot livelier (during the day at least) and does
have its share of good accommodation.
Budget
Unless otherwise mentioned, all rooms

have a private cold-water bathroom.
Pension Bacolod (%433 3377; fax 434 7055; 11th
St; s/d with fan & shared bathroom P145/205, with fan & private bathroom P210/270, with air-con & private bathroom
P370/460) On refreshingly quiet and peaceful
breeding centre that seeks to preserve endangered animals endemic to Negros. Run
by the Negros Forests & Ecological Foundation and staffed by volunteers, it houses
about 15 different species, including deer,
wildcats and birds of prey. Now that only
3% of the islands original forest-cover remains, this could well be one of the most
precious pieces of land in the Philippines.
11th St, this well-run place offers excellent

value for money with 76 reasonably sized,
well-kept rooms. Little wonder that its
often fully booked.
Jacquelines Pension Apartelle (%709 8587; 13th
St; d with fan/air-con from P250/450) If your preference is to stay uptown and Pension Bacolod
is full, gloomy Jacquelines has fairly shabby
rooms on a residential street nearby.
Las Rocas Hotel (%431 7288; Gatuslao St; s/d with
fan P185/295, s/d with air-con P350/500) Accessed
from the street by a flight of wooden stairs,
the quaintly charming Las Rocas Hotel is a
friendly, family-run place with reasonably
clean, good-value rooms.
Check Inn (%432 3755; Pension Arcard, Luzuriaga
St; s/d P600/750; a) This modest downtown
chain hotel offers affordable comforts and
free use of a gym.
Bascon Hotel (%435 4071; Gonzaga St; s/d from
P350/450) A grimy part of town but a clinically spotless, bottom-range business hotel.
Rooms have cable TV and hot water.
INFORMATION
ACTIVITIES
Midrange
Theres a tourist information office (%435 1001;

San Juan St) opposite the public plaza which
has a few brochures. Other tourism-related
queries can be taken to the Negros Occidental
Tourism Center (%433 2515; Provincial Capitol Bldg).
The PNB main branch (Lacson St) and Landbank
main branch (Gatuslao St) have ATMs (transaction limit P20,000 and P30,000, respectively) and can change foreign currencies.
The post office (Gatuslao St) is near the intersection with Burgos St. The police station (San
Juan St) is opposite the City Plaza.
Volcano enthusiasts wishing to trek in

nearby Mt Kanlaon National Park (p287)
must apply in Bacolod for permits. The Office
of the Park Superintendent (%/fax 433 3813; off Gatuslau St) is located behind the Department of
Environment & Natural Resources (DENR),
across the road from the Negros Museum.
All midrange hotels have hot-water bathroom, air-con, cable TV and telephone as
standard, as well as room service and reasonable on-site restaurants. Although generally geared to business travellers, theyre
a good deal for all tourists.
Royal Am Rei (%433 8881/84; fax 433 0222; 13th St;
r from P1000; a) The best thing going for the
Royal Am Rei is its quiet, uptown location.
Designed like a minimall with rooms facing
into a central atrium, it has rooms that are
tarted up with lace and chiffon.
ORIENTATION
The main road through town is busy Lacson

St, off which youll find numerous hotels,
shopping plazas and restaurants, as well as
jeepneys to ferry you up and down town.
Like many cities, Bacolod has not one
but several centres. Downtown is centred
on the city plaza, which is surrounded by
shops, malls and a market, and guarded by
the stately San Sebastian Cathedral. The dividing line between downtown and uptown
is Burgos St. Uptown is home to the Provincial Capitol, and Bacolods better shops,
restaurants and hotels.
A bar and Internet caf zone has sprung
up between the University of St La Salle
and 21st St. Near the airport, about 3km
from downtown Bacolod, is a casino and
nightlife zone called Goldenfield Commercial Complex.
5552; Gatuslao St; adult/child P40/20; h9am-6pm MonSat) houses displays that focus on the islands
rich history, from Spanish missions to cane

plantations and revolution. Dominating the
main exhibition hall are the sugar-hauling
Iron Dinosaur steam engine and a lorcha, a
traditional boat, which is laden with a cargo
of historical artefacts. The museum also has
a small art gallery and caf.
A zoo with a difference, the Biodiversity
Conservation Center (%/fax 433 9234; www.nfefi.org;
South Capitol Rd; entry by donation; h9am-noon & 1.304.30pm Mon-Fri) is a wildlife rescue and captive
FESTIVALS & EVENTS
On the weekend nearest to 19 October each

year, the city goes joyfully crazy with the
MassKara Festival (masskara means many
N E G R O S N e g r o s O c c i d e n t a l 283
Bacolod Pension Plaza (%433 4547; fax 433 2203;

Cuadra St; r P550-890; a) Has comfy rooms and
a handy downtown location. It lacks the executive slick of other midrangers but the 4thfloor budget saver room is excellent value.
Hotel Alhambra (%433 4021/23; cnr Locsin & Galo
Sts; r from P795; a) More character than your
average business hotel. Alhambra may be a
touch old-world in appearance, but its still
run to modern standards.
Kings Hotel (%434 4500/4600; fax 433 0576; Gatuslao St; d P630-1200; a) Has smallish rooms
that are otherwise reasonable value for a
central location.
Top End
LFisher Hotel (%433 3731/39; lfisher@globelines.com

.ph; cnr 14th & Lacson Sts; s/d from P2500/3000; s) In
the heart of uptown, this is Bacolods most
ritzy hotel all things being relative. Rooms
are plush motel, with all the usual trappings. The hotels 24-hour Caf Marinero
looks out over a small swimming pool.
Bacolod Convention Plaza Hotel (%434 4551;
bcphotel@mozcom.com; cnr Magsaysay Ave & Lacson St;
s/d from P2000/2400; s) On the airport side of
town, about five minutes drive from the

Goldenfield Complex, it has a huge lobby
(with an ATM) reminiscent of an arrivals
terminal, as well as an international restaurant, tennis courts and two swimming pools
on a big lawn. Slightly careworn rooms are
really only midrange quality.
EATING
If you are still excited by barbecue chicken

when you reach Bacolod, youre in luck
the night-time streets are full of it.
El Camino (San Sebastian St; meals P50-75; h7ammidnight) A chain of hawker-style restaurants,
and a favourite with locals. Its a noisy,
busy, open-air, barbecue-o-rama. The second branch is on the corner of Burgosand
Gatuslao Sts.
Plaza Mart Food Court (Araneta St, near City Plaza;
h8am-7pm) A busy place dishing out all varieties of meals, shakes and cakes all day.
Business Inn restaurant (%433 8877; dishes P100200; 28 Lacson St; h24hr) Theres a dire shortage
of good restaurants in the downtown area,
but Business Inn comes to the rescue. Goodvalue Filipino and Western meals including
American breakfasts (P175), pancakes (P50)
and a decent salad range (P60 to P120)
are served in a stylish brasserie in the foyer.
T H E V I S AYA S
T H E V I S AYA S
282 N E G R O S N e g r o s O c c i d e n t a l
Bacolod
0
0
BACOLOD
A
To Banago
Wharf (7km)
To Inaka Japanese
Restaurant & Sushi
Bar (1km); 21 Bar (1km);
Reptiles (1km); Maravia
(1km); Draft (1km)
To University
St La Salle
Be
ni
18
no
29
8th St
Rd
35
7th St
32
Lacson St
UPTOWN
4th St
3rd St
2nd St
1st St
22
Burgos St Extension
Burgos St
21
27
Rizal St Extension
3
Rizal St
Market
City Hall
Gonzaga St
Luzuriaga St
Mabini St
St
26
DOWNTOWN
12
Lacson St
Gatuslao St
5
36
Locsin St
Cuadra St
11
City Plaza
San Ju
an
Lopez Jaena St
17
San Sebastian
Cathedral
16
Araneta St
23
30
34
28
Rosario St
Bacolod City
Public Library
Panaad Sports
Stadium & Park
Libertad St (Hernaez St)
Market
Quezon St
Rodriguez St
31
Alunan St
Lizares Ave
To Goldenfield
Commercial Complex
(3km); Airport (4km)
B2
B2
EATING
Bo's Coffee.............................(see 25)
Business Inn Restaurant.............21 B4
El Camino (Dos)........................22 B3
El Camino (Uno).......................23 B5
Kaisei Japanese Restaurant........24 B2
Krau Thai Restaurant.................25 B1
To Bacolod Convention
Plaza Hotel (2km)
Plaza Mart Food Court............. 26 A4

TRANSPORT
Aboitiz...................................... 27 B4
Aboitiz Express.......................... 28 B5
Air Philippines.........................(see 36)
Cebu Pacific............................(see 27)
Cebu Pacific............................(see 36)
Ceres Bus Liner North Terminal.. 29 D2
Ceres Bus Liner South Terminal.. 30 D5
Jeepney for Ma-ao &
Mambucal............................ 31 C6
MV Weesam Express..............(see 32)
Negros Navigation.................... 32 C2
Negros Navigation..................(see 36)
North Bus Station..................... 33 D2
South Bus Station..................... 34 D5
SuperCat...................................35 B2
SuperFerry................................ 36 A4
timate of Bacolods two Japanese offerings,

Inaka has excellent food and is well worth
the extra pesos. Its right in the heart of the
bar district of 21st St. The mixed tempura
bento box is excellent value at P120.
Kaisei Japanese Restaurant (%434 7787; cnr
At the other end of town, the seedy Goldenfield Commercial Complex is aimed at a more
mature make that older crowd. Apart
from the Casino Filipino, there are several
restaurants, pool halls, discos and a 10-pin
bowling centre. If Vegas is sequined Elvis,
then Goldenfield is a very poor impersonator of sequined Elvis: the videoke version.
Its a P60 taxi ride from the Capitol area.
10th & Lacson Sts; set menus P100-200, meals P160-220;

h11am-2pm & 6-9.30pm) A popular, hangar-
ENTERTAINMENT
13
San Sebastian St
B3
B3
sized Japanese eatery, it has well-priced set

menus and very good la carte.
Opposite Mayfair Plaza, on Lacson St,
youll find Bos Coffee Shop for espresso and
cakes, and Krau Thai Restaurant (%434 7991; meals
around P150), a fancy chain restaurant with what
wed characterise as Thai-inspired dishes.
Galo St
14
B4
B4
A4
B4
B1
B5
B4
B1
C2
C1
B2
Inaka Japanese Restaurant & Sushi Bar (%434

4045; cnr 21st & Lacson Sts; meals P120-300; h10am-2pm
& 5.30-10pm Tue-Sun) The smaller and more in-
5th St
SLEEPING
Bacolod Pension Plaza...............11
Bascon Hotel.............................12
Check Inn................................. 13
Hotel Alhambra.........................14
Jacqueline's Pension Apartelle...15
King's Hotel..............................16
Las Rocas Hotel.........................17
L'Fisher Hotel............................18
Pension Bacolod........................19
Royal Am Rei............................20
33
IV Ferrer Sr Ave
St
Lake
INFORMATION
Landbank Main Branch...............1 B3
Negros Occidental Tourism
Center................................(see 10)
PNB Main Branch........................2 B2
Police Station.............................. 3 A4
Post Office..................................4 B3
Tourist Information Office.......... 5 A4
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Biodiversity Conservation
Centre.................................... 6
Department of Environment &
Natural Resources (DENR)...... 7
Negros Museum..........................8
Office of Mt Kanlaon National
Park Superintendent...............9
Provincial Capitol
Building...............................10
Dr
9th St
Aq
10th St
South Capitol Rd
6
Reclamation
Port (300m);
Jomaila Shipping
(300m); Millennium
Shipping (300m)
19
11th St
10
Hilado
13th St
Mayfair Plaza
12th St
24
North Capitol
gn
ui
20
25
Gatuslao St
San Juan St
Guimaras
Strait
14th St
15
500 m
0.3 miles
To Mambucal
(35km)
The area from 21st St to La Salle Ave is a university precinct; the streets are full of Internet
cafs, cheap eateries and humble little bars.
21 Bar (cnr 21st & Lacson Sts) A hardy perennial in the ever-changing 21st St scene. Its
one of more stylish and adult bars in the
university district, though San Migs are still
reasonable value at P35. There are DJs most
nights and live music on weekends.
Bars on and around 21st St go in and
out of business faster than anyone can keep
up. We suggest you simply jump out at the
corner of 21st and Lacson Sts and see what
takes your fancy. Lively venues when we
were there included Reptiles and Maravia, in
the blocks east of Lacson St Bar, and Draft
sports bar (with live sports telecasts), 50m
west of the corner of Lacson and 21st Sts,
around the corner from 21 Bar.
Air
Philippine Airlines (PAL) and Cebu Pacific

fly to Cebu City (30 minutes) twice daily.
Cebu Pacific, Air Philippines and PAL have
several flights daily to Manila (one hour).
Boat
The Reclamation Port is a P10 tricycle ride

from the City Plaza and services nationwide operators SuperCat (%434 2350/1; www
.supercat.com.ph) and SuperFerry (%435 4965; www
.superferry.com.ph) and NegrosPanay specialists MV Weesam Express (%433 9125), Jomaila
Shipping (%434 2542) and Millennium Shipping
(%433 9360).
For SuperFerry and SuperCat tickets, look
out for Aboitiz (also called 2Go) ticketing offices, which are scattered around the city.
Banago Wharf is about 7km north of
central Bacolod P20 by jeepney or P120
by cab and services Negros Navigation
(%441 0652/3; www.negrosnavigation.ph).
The most popular route from Negros to
Panay is BacolodIloilo. Smooth and efficient SuperCat fastcraft run four times
daily to Iloilo (P240, one hour), from 6am
to 3.30pm. Fastcraft MV Weesam sails four
times daily (P250, one hour), Millennium
T H E V I S AYA S
T H E V I S AYA S
284 N E G R O S B a c o l o d
Shipping sails twice daily (P110, three hours),

and Jomalia Shipping sails twice daily to
Dumangas (P80, 1 hours), a little north of
Iloilo. Negros Navigation has three weekly
ferry services to Iloilo (P115, two hours).
SuperFerry has a weekly service to Dumaguete (P180, 10 to 12 hours).
From Bacolod to Mindanao, there are
services to Ozamis, Iligan and Cagayan de
Oro. Ozamis is served by Negros Navigation (P1465, 21 hours, one a week), as is
Iligan (P1505, 16 hours, one a week).
Cagayan de Oro is served by SuperFerry
(P1505, 16 hours, four weekly).
SuperFerry has five services a week to
Manila (P1685, 19 hours). Negros Navigation has a daily service to Manila (P1685,
19 hours).
Bus & Jeepney
The main bus company is Ceres Bus Liner.

For destinations north of Bacolod (and
Cebu) phone the north terminal (%434 2387);
for destinations south of Bacolod (including San Carlos) phone the south terminal
(%433 4993). The stations for other bus lines
are opposite both Ceres terminals. Air-con
buses are about 30% dearer.
The shortest trip between Bacolod and
Dumaguete (P184, five to six hours) is via
Mabinay buses leave every 30 minutes all
day. Ceres Bus Liner also runs trips to Cebu
City, with a ferry leg between San Carlos
and Toledo (P300, 11 hours).
A plethora of bus lines travel the coastal
route between Bacolod and San Carlos (P150,
four hours), stopping or terminating at
towns along the way, including Cadiz (P45,
1 hours) and Sagay (P60, two hours), which
have boat services to Bantayan Island. Southbound bus stops include La Carlota (P32,
one hour), Ilog (P65, 2 hours) and Sipalay
(P145, 4 hours).
Many jeepneys service the short-haul
routes. Jeepneys for La Carlota (P25, 1
hours) depart from the SDL Terminal in
Libertad St. Jeepneys for Ma-ao (P20, 30
minutes) and Mambucal (P20, 45 minutes)
are stationed behind the market between
Libertad St and Lizares Ave.
GETTING AROUND
A taxi from the airport to the city centre

shouldnt cost more than P60. You can also
catch a jeepney marked Libertad (P20).
Note that a new airport for Bacolod was

under construction at the time of research.
It will be located 15km from Bacolod, just
east of Silay, and should open in 2008.
A taxi between downtown Bacolod and
the Goldenfield Commercial Complex
should cost around P50.
To get to the city centre by jeepney from
the north or south bus terminal take a
Shopping jeepney to Lacson St (P5); from
there, you can catch a northsouth jeepney
marked Bata to your hotel (around P5).
Around Bacolod
On the highway, 3km south of the small city
of Bago, is the pirate-themed Jewels Restaurant (%034-461 1422; most fish per 100g from P100). A
seafood and recreational compound popular with families and business groups, this
place has a 1-hectare lagoon brimming with
paddle boats and tilapia (P30 per 100g). At
the entrance, you can pay P10 for a fishing
rod and worms. If all else fails, theres a
plush, convention centrestyle restaurant
serving seafood from huge aquariums.
Jeepneys and buses pass here on the way to
and from Bacolod (P12, 45 minutes).
Near here is a turn-off that takes you 4km
(jeepney P5) to the tiny town of Pulupandan.
From Pulupandan pier, three daily services
depart between 8.30am to noon bound for
Suclaran on Guimaras (P40, 40 minutes).
La Carlota
%034 / pop 56,408
La Carlota lies about 45km south of Bacolod, at the base of Mt Kanlaon. The city
is famous for fiestas, and is well known
among nature lovers as an alternative to
Mambucal as a starting point for hikes into
Mt Kanlaon National Park (opposite).
La Carlotas annual Kabankalan Sinulog is a
wild street party held on the second Sunday
in January. Dancers are daubed in black in
imitation of the islands Negrito people, and
a feast is held in honour of the child Jesus.
On the Sunday nearest 1 May, the city holds
its annual Pasalamat Festival, or Festival of
Light. A fun-filled, three-day thanksgiving
ritual to honour the years harvest, it has a
Mardi Gras atmosphere, with dazzling native costumes and huge parade floats.
The imposing, fortress-style Church of Our
Lady of Peace, in the town centre, is one of
the countrys best examples of Romanesque
architecture. Another attraction is the La

Carlota Sugar Central sugar mill. For the latest
information about visiting the mill, contact
the Bacolod tourism office (%433 2515).
In La Carlota youll find only basic, cheerless accommodation. If you need a place for
the night, ask a tricycle driver to take you to
CT Comfort Inn (%460 2690; tw with shared bathroom
P400), behind the market. Otherwise, head
for one of the resorts in the foothills of Mt
Kanlaon (right).
Jeepneys marked La Carlota head off
from Bacolod (P25, 1 hour) throughout the day, as do buses (P32, one hour).
Jeepneys to Guintubdan, in Mt Kanlaon
National Park, depart from in front of the
market (P20, 45 minutes).
Mt Kanlaon National Park

With its dense forest and volcanic crowning
glory, the 25,000-hectare Mt Kanlaon National Park is popular with hikers and birdwatchers. The parks central highlands are
rich in wildlife, including the perilously rare
bleeding-heart pigeon and Philippine spotted deer, and several species of orchid.
Because of the risks involved, hiking to
the summit of the active volcano is a necessarily complicated business.
INFORMATION
No permits are needed to visit any of the

resorts in the mountains foothills. However if you wish to hike up the volcano,
you must obtain a permit (P300) from the
Bacolod-based Office of the Park Superintendent (%/fax 034-433 3813; off Gatuslao St). This is for
your own safety, as well as for preservation
of the park environment. Only a limited
number of hikers are permitted to visit the
park each year and the Park Superintendent
manages the waiting list. You will need to
give at least a months notice to ensure you
get a place. The climbing season is March
to May and October to December.
Trekking to the summit takes from one to
two days, return. There are three entrance
stations to the summit: Murcia, Guintubdan and Canlaon. The first is said to be the
most scenic. Trekkers wanting to walk to
the summit will need to organise a guide
(P500 per day, maximum nine trekkers per
guide) with the Park Superintendent or with
the Guintubdan resorts. Porters cost an additional P500 per day. For a slicker package
with all equipment and food included, contact Planet Action (see p256).
The Park Superintendent sometimes evacuates the mountain and enforces a clearance
zone around its base if its daily monitoring
suggests any threat of volcanic eruption.
SLEEPING & EATING
The resorts of Mt Kanlaon are scattered

around its eastern flanks.
Guintubdan
High on the slopes of Mt Kanlaon, the wonderfully cool, ferny barangay of Guintubdan is home to numerous rooster farms
(so much for the serenity) and two resorts
owned by La Carlota and Bago cities, respectively. Both are a 45-minute jeepney
ride from La Carlota (P20). From either resort, guides can take you on excellent daytrips to any of the seven nearby waterfalls
(P100). Entrance fees for casual visitors are
P20/10 per adult/child.
Guintubdan Visitors Center (%La Carlota mayors
office 460 2459; r from P400, camping for 6-person tent P150)
This impressive stone building has basic

clean rooms with cold-water bathroom, and
a communal area with magnificent views.
Youll have to bring your own food and use
the kitchen, or the staff can cook native
chicken for P350, good for four.
Raphael Salas Nature Park (%0927 276 927; dm
P100, r with private bathroom P500) A mere 200m up
the road from Guintubdan Visitors Center,
Raphael Salas offers more of the same. The
accommodation is a little more Spartan but
the views are a little better, so take your
pick. Full board breakfast, lunch and dinner goes for P400 per day.
Ma-ao
The forested hillsides around Ma-ao contain

two lush mountain resorts. To get to them,
catch a jeepney to Ma-ao from Bago (P15, 45
minutes) or from Bacolod (P30, 1 hours).
From Ma-ao, take a tricycle to either Buenos
Aires Mountain Resort or Kipot Twin Falls
(P150, 30 minutes), or you can take a taxi
direct from Bacolod (P500, 1 hours).
Buenos Aires Mountain Resort (%461 0540/0164;
bago@lasaltech.com; dm P100, cottages from P300, r with
air-con P1000; as) Built in the 1930s, this
gorgeous mountain resort situated by a

river is famous for having housed President
Quezon when he hid from the Japanese
T H E V I S AYA S
T H E V I S AYA S
Silay
Silay
%034 / pop 107,722
On the face of it, Silay, about 14km north of

Bacolod, is just another grimy, hard-scrabble
town. Who would suspect that it once wore
the appellation the Paris of Negros? Such
are the fortunes of sugar.
Silay first tasted sweet success when a
French resident planted sugarcane in the
1850s, and its pier swiftly became an international port of call. Silays golden age
was between 1880 and 1930, when its 31
recognised ancestral homes were built.
The haciendas of Silay were bastions of
refinement and privilege, and in the early
1900s the town became the place for European musicians and artists to hang out.
But it wasnt to last. The combination of
growth in nearby Bacolod, damage wrought
in WWII, and the development of the sugar
industry overseas resulted in a decline in
Silays cultural and industrial activity.
4916; Cinco de Novembre St; adult/child P30/10; h10am6pm Tue-Sun) is a beautiful house built of ba-
layong hardwood in 1901. Victors father,

Yves Leopold Germain Gaston, is credited
with being the first to cultivate sugarcane
commercially in the region. The house has
been painstakingly restored, and furnished
with period pieces donated by locals. The
bevelled-glass windows and Chinese-carved
lattice work are original.
The stately Hofilea Ancestral Home (%495
4561; Cinco de Novembre St; visits by appointment with
owner) contains one of the Philippines finest
art collections, as well as antiques belonging to one of Silays principal families, the
Hofilea family. The house is now owned
by the charismatic and loquacious Ramon
Hofilea, a tireless preserver of Negros cultural heritage. If you book ahead, Ramon
will proudly show you around his house,
including his collection of paintings by
seminal Filipino artists.
For almost 30 years, Ramon has run the
Annual Cultural Tour Of Negros Occidental (tours
around P400). The three one-day tours are
scheduled in December, and take in attrac-
Antonio Luna St
Iglesia Ni
Cristo Church
Police
Station
City
Hall
11
Civic
Centre
Eusebio St
J Pitong Ledesma St
B1
B2
A2
SLEEPING
Baldevia Pension House..........................................8 B2
Zamora St
To Ang
Kalubihan
(600m)
A3
Market
Gomez St
Burgos St
INFORMATION
Bank of Philippine Islands (BPI)...............................1 B3
Philippines National Bank (PNB)..............................2 B2
Tourist Office......................................................... 3 A2
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Balay Negrense Museum........................................4
Bernardino Jalandoni Ancestral
House................................................................. 5
Church of San Diego...............................................6
Hofilenia Ancestral Home.......................................7
1
National Rd (aka Rizal St)
Silays past has been preserved in the form

of three grand ancestral homes, providing a
glimpse of vanished splendour. Two are run
as museums, and one is still occupied.
Built in 1908, Bernardino Jalandoni Ancestral House (%495 5093; National Rd; adult/child P30/20;
h10am-5pm Tue-Sun) is affectionately known
as The Pink House. Apart from the paint
job, the building is said to be virtually unchanged from the days when it was home to
the Jalandoni family. On display are Japanese government banknotes from the days
of occupation, a 1907 Steinway piano and
dozens of Ken and Barbie dolls in various
historical costumes. The furniture and objets dart on the 2nd floor are the best preserved and most tastefully displayed of the
historical items in the two museums.
Also known as the Victor Gaston Ancestral Home, Balay Negrenese Museum (%495
B
To Barangay
Hawaiian (10km);
Victorias (20km);
Patag (32km)
R Hofilena St
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
300 m
0.2 miles
0061; fax 495 0587; Green House, Plaridel St; h8am-noon

& 1-5pm Mon-Fri) are extremely helpful. There
are PNB and BPI banks in town:

BPI (cnr J Pitong Ledesma St & National Rd)
PNB (National Rd)
0
0
SILAY
Public
Plaza
Zulueta St
Dr Juan Valencia St
Easily reached from Bacolod by jeepney

(P20, 45 minutes), the popular resort village of Mambucal makes for a diverting day
trip out of town. The entrance fee for casual
visitors is P30/10 per adult/child.
Mambucal Mountain Resort (%433 8887, 703
0009, 710 0344; cottage P1000, r P600; s) Mambucal
resort is a 24-hectare pleasure park popular
with family groups: hence its not a place
for peace and quiet. It has sulphur springs,
short trails, a flying fox, an artificial lagoon
and swimming pools. Accommodation
is a choice between family cottages that,
judging from the people lounging on their
verandas, sleep up to 20 at a time, and a
slightly lower-density tourist lodge. On-site
restaurant stalls sell tasty barbecued meals
for around P100.
The staff at Silays tourist office (%495 5145/
Plaridel St
Mambucal
INFORMATION
Cinco de Novembre St
during WWII. There is a restaurant on site

(meals around P100). Its best visited on
weekdays, when you can enjoy the quiet of
the forest surrounds.
Kipot Summer Resort (%mayors office Bago City
461 0164; bago@lasaltech.com; cottage P300) More
humble and secluded than the neighbouring Buenos Aires resort, Kipot which
takes its name from the nearby Kipot Twin
Falls has four simple, native-style cottages. Be sure to book ahead and bring your
own food.
10
To Equitable PCI Bank (50m);

Fortuna Pension House (1km)
tions from the nearby region, including the

famous Church of St Joseph the Worker at
the Victorias Milling Company (see p290).
On the main road through town, the silverdomed Church of San Diego was designed by
an Italian called Verasconi. It was built in
Romanesque style in 1925 and is topped by
a crucifix that, when lit at night, is visible far
out to sea.
No visit to Silay would be complete without sampling the delicacies of El Ideal Bakery (right).
FESTIVALS & EVENTS
Charter-day anniversary (5-12 Jun) A week-long

fiesta.
San Diego Fiesta (6-13 Nov) Includes a colourful streetdance competition.

SLEEPING & EATING
Fortuna Pension House (%495 3981; fortuna_pen

sion@eudoramail.com; r P400-1000) One of the 31
recognised ancestral houses, it has been
converted, with minimal alteration, to accommodate guests. This stately wooden
home set in farmlands offers a glimpse of
EATING
El Ideal Bakery.........................................................9 B3
Food Stuff Caf....................................................(see 8)
TRANSPORT
Buses & Jeepneys to Bacolod.................................10 B3
Buses & Jeepneys to Victorias & Cadiz...................11 B1
hacienda living, but with a friendly homely

feel. Theres a range of accommodation,
from simple rooms to entire floors, but
most have a hot-water bathroom. Breakfast
is the only meal available (P180). Fortuna
is less than a kilometre south of the city
turn left at Jos Locsin, pass the Jos Locsin
Provincial Hospital and follow the signs. A
tricycle will cost P10.
Baldevia Pension House (%495 0272/5140; bph@
babysky.net.ph; National Rd; r with fan P350, r with air-con
P600-1200) Conveniently positioned off the
main drag, just near the bus and jeepney

terminals. It has comfortable, tiled rooms
with spotless hot-water bathrooms. Fan
rooms are often booked up. Attached to
the hotel is the Food Stuff caf, which does
a good toasted sandwich (P50 to P80).
Ang Kalubihan (mains P50-80; h3-10pm) This
is a breezy outdoor eatery under a stand of
coconut palms. On a warm clear night its a
great place for a barbecue and a beer.
El Ideal Bakery (National Rd; h7am-6.30pm) Just
south of the public plaza, in one of the less
prepossessing ancestral houses, is the home
and birthplace of many of the delicacies for
which Silay has become famous. The bakery
was set up in 1935, during Silays heyday,
to provide snacks for the wealthy gamblers
who couldnt drag themselves away from
the table. Some of the bakerys famous
creations include lumpia ubod (spring rolls
filled with pork, shrimp and the juicy tip
of the coconut palm) and piaya (flat bread
sprinkled with brown sugar and sesame
seeds). Our favourites were the guapple
T H E V I S AYA S
T H E V I S AYA S
go it alone, you will require a permit from

the Silay tourist office (see p288).
RAMON HOFILEA
There could be few more handsome or artistically gifted families in the Philippines than that of
Ramon Hofilea. The photos of his eight brothers and sisters, which grace the antique, ivorykeyed piano in his waiting room, show performance shots of classical musicians, singers, actors
and dancers, and even a fin de sicle beauty queen. Ramon will waste no time listing their accomplishments, or indeed his own, but the list is so impressive one can hardly begrudge him
reciting it.
But dont be fooled into thinking this family is a mere theatre troupe. The Hofilea roll-call
also counts revolutionaries, shipping magnates and one of the original Silay sugar barons Ramons father Manuel Severino. When you speak with the irrepressible Ramon, 75, in his graceful
ancestral home, you begin to appreciate what a cultural flowering the golden age of sugar was
for Silay.
Though an artist and writer himself, Ramons greatest achievements have been in preserving
and promoting the works of others. As he tells it, when he returned to Silay from New York
in the 1970s, he found it so down-at-heel and neglected that it set him on a life-long path of
restoration and heritage protection, beginning with but not limited to his own home, the first
in Silay to be opened to the public.
Arguably just as impressive as his preservation of Silays heritage, though, has been his work
in collecting and publicising Filipino art. His rotating private collection, which he will gladly show
you, is a whos who of Filipino painter laureates. It includes paintings by Juan Luna, Jose Rizal,
and a number of works by the late Conrado Judith, an impoverished, self-taught genius who
was discovered by Ramon and whose vivid and perfectly realised paintings would not look out
of place in any major metropolitan gallery.
Anyone may visit Ramon, his house and his private collection by appointment (see p288).
Cadiz
%034 / pop 141,954
About 65km from Bacolod, Cadiz (cah-dis)

is a rough-and-ready fishing port and exit
point for all that Negros sugar. The citys
annual Ati-Atihan Festival, in honour of patron saint Santo Nio, is held on the weekend nearest 26 January.
There is good accommodation at Hotel
Cadiz (%493 1785; Villena St; d with fan & cold-water
bathroom P530, d with cable TV & hot-water bathroom
P600). It has large, well-kept rooms, a restau-
rant (meals around P100) and even tennis

courts!
A ferry departs every second day for Bantayan town (P150, four hours) on Bantayan
Island. Buses run from Cadiz to Bacolod
(P45, 1 hours), and to Escalante (P35, 45
minutes), San Carlos (P50, 1 hours) and
Dumaguete (P180, six hours). There are also
regular jeepneys to Sagay (P18, 30 minutes).
Sagay
%034 / pop 129, 765
(large guava) pies and the egg pies (P20

each). Delicious.
For cheaper imitations, go to the public
market between 6.30am and 7.30am Monday to Saturday, and youll see people bartering their baked goods with each other
before heading off to sell them in Bacolod
and neighbouring areas.
ing the harvesting process (November to

April), locomotive-riding (P1500 for any
number, book in advance), handcart riding
(P8 public, P150 private; 45 minutes) and
even a homestay (P300 per person).
Theres also historic paraphernalia on
display at the huge Victorias Milling Company
of Silay. Victorias was the worlds biggest

mill during the 60s and 70s and is the site
of the Church of St Joseph the Worker, which
features a claustrophobically dense liturgical
mural by Alfonso Ossorio, a contemporary
of Jackson Pollock. Jeepneys run all day to
Victorias from Silay (P20, 45 minutes). No
shorts, sandals or cameras are allowed at
Victorias.
Patag National Park, about 32km east of
Silay (P30 by jeepney, one hour), was the
site of a horrendous battle during WWII.
These days, great hikes are possible from
Patag village into the national park, with
several waterfall visits along the way. The
Silay tourism office can organise a guide
(P150 a day) and a homestay (P300). The only
other accommodation is in the old Patag
Hospital building (P150). Even if you wish to
Both buses and jeepneys travel between

Silay and Bacolod (P11, 30 minutes). In
Silay, all buses and jeepneys heading north
and south stop along Rizal St. From Silay,
there are buses all day stopping at the
coastal towns towards San Carlos (P90,
three hours).
Around Silay
The sugar plantations that surround Silay
have their own colourful histories. To visit
any of the plantations or Patag National
Park, youll need to arrange a tour through
the Silay tourist office (p288).
The Hawaiian Philippine Sugar Company
(%034-495 2085; h8am-noon & 1-5pm Mon-Fri NovApr) is only a 15-minute ride by jeepney (P7)
north of Silay. Tours may include watch-
(Vicmico; %034-399 3002; admission P15; h7am-noon

& 1-4pm Tue-Fri), in the town of Victorias, north
Sagay City is a combination of Old Sagay, on

the coast, and New Sagay, on the National
Hwy its P10 by jeepney between the two.
The tourist office (%488 0101; City Hall, New
Sagay) can help organise trips to Carbin Reef
and accommodation in town.
Sagay is the proud guardian of the 32,000hectare Sagay Marine Reserve, established in
1999 to protect one of the only areas on
Negros still teeming with marine life. The
sanctuary is centred on Carbin Reef, about
15km northeast of Old Sagay (45 minutes
by pumpboat). Also here is Maca Reef, where
flocks of migratory birds are a common
sight. To organise a boat, ask at the tourist office or at the pier. A small boat will
cost P1000 (maximum 14 people). Diving
is discouraged due to the shallowness of the
reef, but snorkelling is possible if you can
rustle up the equipment.
Belonging to the municipal government,
Balay Kauswagan (%488 0101; fax 488 0187; municipal hall; dm P150, tw with air-con & private bathroom
P500; s) is a characterless convention cen-
tre with OK rooms and a swimming pool

but no restaurant.
There is a pumpboat every second day
to Bantayan town, Bantayan Island (P150,
2 hours). Jeepneys run regularly to Cadiz

(P18, 30 minutes) and to Escalante (P15, 30
minutes). There are also buses running at
regular quarter-hour to half-hour intervals
in both directions.
Escalante & Around

%034 / pop 79,098
Like neighbouring Sagay, Escalante is a city

of two parts with Old Escalante on the
coast and New Escalante on the highway.
City Hall, the town plaza, the bus terminal
and Equitable PCI bank are all in New Escalante; Danao Port, from where the boats
to Cebu leave, is in Old Escalante. A tricycle
between the two will cost around P20 (15
minutes).
The helpful tourist office (%454 0324; City
Hall, New Escalante) can assist with accommodation and activities.
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
The hills around Escalante abound with

caves more than 50 at last count many
of which were used by the Japanese as hideouts in WWII. The tourist office can organise guides (around P500 per day).
In Old Escalante, two minutes past the
turnoff to Port Danao, are the ruins of Escalantes old church, St Francis of Assisi Parish. Built of coral stone by the Spanish in
1850, its roof was destroyed by a typhoon
in the 1960s. However by this time the
citys wealth and political focus had shifted
to New Danao, and the will to repair the
church was lacking, which is why it exists
as a stately ruin today. If you have the time,
drop in on parish priest Father Harry and
enjoy a cold drink with him in the rectorys
lovely, shaded garden.
The little Isla Puti (Enchanted Isle) is a
20-minute pumpboat ride from Escalante
(also approachable from Vito Port, Old
Sagay), and has some attractive white-sand
beaches. Boats (P600, 20 minutes, good for
10 people) can be organised at Barcelona
pier or through the citys tourist office.
FESTIVALS & EVENTS
Escalante celebrates two major festivals: one

on 30 May, when the town celebrates its patron, St Cruz, with a colourful street party;
and the other, on 20 September, to remember the massacre of 20 sugarcane workers by
soldiers during an industrial dispute.
T H E V I S AYA S
T H E V I S AYA S
SLEEPING & EATING
Rodeway Inn (%454 0176; National Hwy, New Escalante; d with fan & shared bathroom P250, d with air-con
& private bathroom P660) Opposite the pretty
town plaza, the Rodeway is a friendly and

efficient family-run operation with comfortable and secure accommodation. The
restaurant can do you dinner and breakfast
for around P80.
There is accommodation on Isla Puti
at Jomabo Island Paradise Beach Resort (%454
0090; www.jomabo.com; camping per tent P150, r & cottages P1200-2800), which also has a restaurant,
tennis court and water-sports facilities. The

resort has no food: you must bring your
own and cook on-site.
A ferry departs for Tabuelan on Cebu twice

daily (P120, 2 hours, 11am and midnight)
from Old Escalantes Port Danao. Escalante
is on the bus route between Dumaguete
(P170, five hours) and Bacolod (P70, 2
hours).
San Carlos
%034 / pop 118,259
San Carlos is the main port city connecting

Negros to Cebu. Ferries run daily between
San Carlos and Toledo, on Cebus west
coast. The place is not overflowing with
charm, but its fine for an overnight stay.
Cyberprint Internet caf (S Carmono St; per hr P20),
on a street off the plaza, is cool and quiet and
has a fast connection. Theres a Metrobank
and an Equitable PCI Bank on the main drag,
which runs in a straight line from the pier.
The city is famed for its annual Pintaflores
Festival, held from 3 to 5 November. This
particularly frenetic street festival harks
back to the days when Filipinos would welcome foreign visitors by dancing en masse.
Sipaway Island is a white-sand and coral outcrop about 4km off the coast of San Carlos.
About 7km long and about 1.5km wide, the
island has a couple of basic stores, a free public swimming pool and some good walking
trails. Regular pumpboats head for the island
(P20, 20 minutes) from near the main pier
in San Carlos. Whispering Palms Island Resort
(%0916 651 6159; www.whispering-palms.com; r with fan/
air-con from P1000/1500) on Sipaway Island has a
fairly characterless collection of apartmentstyle rooms, a Filipino restaurant and the

usual assortment of beachside diversions.
Skyland Hotel & Restaurant (%312 5589; Broce

St; tw with fan/air-con P370/570; a), halfway between the pier and the bus terminal, has
spotless rooms and decent food (meals
around P120).
For boats to Toledo, see p245.

There are regular all-day buses from San
Carlos bus station (1km from the pier; P5
by tricycle) to Dumaguete (P150, four hours)
and to Bacolod via Silay (P115, 3 hours).
To La Carlota, first catch a bus to the mountain town of Canlaon (P30, 45 minutes), and
from that terminal catch another across the
tablelands of Mt Kanlaon to La Carlota (P65,
2 hours); the views are spectacular.
Sipalay & Around

%034 / pop 62,063
About 200km from both Bacolod and Dumaguete, the remote seaside town of Sipalay
(si-pah-lie) is surrounded by spectacular
white-sand beaches, secluded coves, scattered islets, dive reefs and waters teeming
with marlin, trevally and tuna.
The premier attraction here has to be the
slice of paradise called Sugar Beach (Langub
to the locals) though keen divers may prefer the dedicated dive resorts of Punta Ballo.
The diving around Sipalay is some of the
best in Negros. Its particularly suited to inexperienced or learner divers. At last count
there were well over 30 dive sites in the area,
including three wrecks (one from WWII).
The resorts in Sugar Beach and Punta Ballo
either have on-site dive centres or can arrange trips through an affiliated dive centre. Prices are fairly standard: one dive is
US$20, equipment rental starts from US$5,
an open-water certificate is US$300.
Boats for exploring the marine idylls of
nearby Maricalum Bay and Tinagong Dagat can
be hired (around P500) through the Sipalay
Tourist Information Centre (%0926 433 7318; cnr
SIPALAY PROPER
The sprawling town of Sipalay services surrounding farming communities and the
fishermen whose boats pull up on its vast,
white-sand beach (Poblacion Beach). Around
sunrise its not uncommon to see the fishermen unloading 40kg-plus tuna here.
The main street of Sipalay proper is Alvarez St, which runs eastwest. At the far
(western) end of Alvarez St are the market,
the bus stop and Poblacion Beach. Running
the length of Poblacion Beach (ie north
south) is Rodrigo G Chua Blvd.
Sipalays annual Sacred Heart of Jesus Fiesta
is held in late December.
Driftwood City Restaurant (%0919 813 1426;
Rodrigo C Chua Blvd, Poblacion Beach; pizza & pasta P100150; h8am-late) is affiliated with Driftwood
Village Resort in Sugar Beach (p294), and

serves up tasty Italian treats by the sea. It
also organises the boat service from Poblacion to Sugar Beach (P200, maximum 10
people) call ahead to book.
charging standard rates, and a 22m outrigger equipped for dive safaris (from US$500
for five nights) that can also do short trips
into town (P400 return).
Easy Diving Beach Resort (%0954 407 716; www
.sipalay.com; d P1500; a) Artistics near neighbour is trying to carve out a niche for itself
by going for a more upmarket crowd, with
a swish, native-style terrace bar and air-con
(and hot water) in all rooms. It has a well
set-up dive centre with rates slightly on the
high side (open-water course US$320).
Nataasan Beach Resort (%0919 365 7863; www
.nataasan.com; s/d with fan from P1200/1400, with air-con
P1700/1900) Perched high on the point at the
northern end of the beach, what Nataasan

lacks in beach-level access it makes up for
with superb views. Sea-view cabins are definitely worth the extra. Buildings are plush
native style, with all-modern amenities.
There is no dive centre here (though dive
trips can be arranged through Artistic Diving) just good food and great hospitality.
PUNTA BALLO
SUGAR BEACH
The barangay of Punta Ballo is on a promontory 6km southwest of Sipalay proper. The
turn-off for Punta Ballo is at the town plaza,
on the left as you come into town. A long,
bumpy ride by hubel-hubel (P100) leads you
to the resorts, which all look out to sea. The
pretty white-sand beach here is 200m long
and backed by wooded hills. The trouble is,
its also shallow and weedy, and prone to very
low tides, so its not great for swimming.
Around the headland to the south, Campomanes Bay is a spectacular, steep-sided
natural harbour with as yet no resorts
or accommodation.
The resorts can charter boats for trips
into Sipalay proper (P400 return, maximum 10 people) and can organise a car to
pick you up from town (around P200) if
you book ahead.
Ever dreamt of being a castaway, but with

a few comforts and some friends to keep
you company ( la Gilligans Island)? Well,
Sugar Beach is a dream come true. With just
a handful of eclectic, home-spun resorts, a
beach that really does rival Boracays, and a
western orientation that makes every sunset
one to remember, Sugar Beach has to be the
Philippines best-kept secret.
Sugar (aka Langub) Beach is just north
of Sipalay proper, beside the village of Lauhang. To get there by land, you must get
off the bus at the village of Montilla, 3km
before Sipalay. Otherwise you can continue
into Sipalay and organise a boat to pick you
up from in front of Driftwood City Restaurant on Poblacion Beach (left).
It takes a bit of doing, but the overland
option is a wonderful way to put you in the
mood for tropical seclusion. Get off the bus
at Montilla; from there catch a tricycle to
Lauhang (P50, 4km), which will take you
past rice paddies ploughed by water buffalo and over a bridge through a mangrove
swamp. At Lauhang, you must cross a tidal
river a small paddle boat will cost around
P5 per person. On the other side of the
river, skirt the village and walk around the
point till you get to the long, fantastically
white stretch of sand that is Sugar Beach.
Rodrigo G Chua Blvd & Alejano St; hhigh season 8am-5pm

daily, low season 8am-5pm Mon-Fri), just back from
Sleeping & Eating
Poblacion Beach.
Regular buses run between Sipalay and
Bacolod (P145, 4 hours). On the rough
road between Sipalay and Dumaguete, buses
terminate at Hinoba-an (first transfer) then
Bayawan (second transfer) before finally continuing on to Dumaguete (total trip P160, six
to seven hours including transfers).
www.artisticdiving.com; d with fan/air-con P850/1050)
Artistic Diving Beach Resort (%0919 409 5594;

The original and still the best. Artistic has
large, comfortable row cottages (with private balconies and hot-water bathrooms)
set in well-tended garden by the beach.
Meals (from P200) are very good, with
plenty of greens and veggies. The resort has
the longest-running dive centre in Sipalay,
T H E V I S AYA S
T H E V I S AYA S
S I Q U I J O R G e t t i n g T h e re & A w a y 295
Siquijor
THE AUTHORS CHOICE
Takatuka Lodge & Dive Resort (%0920
230 9174; www.takatuka-lodge.com; d with fan/aircon P550/750, family cottage with kitchen & air-con
P1100) With only four rooms plus the family cottage (an additional P200 to use the
stove), it pays to book ahead. Words fail to
describe the riotous, colour-saturated, eclectic, skewed-angled aesthetic of Takatuka
lodge. If the brothers Kalitta ever decide to
sell up, they are guaranteed a bright career
in interior design. The food (meals around
P180) is almost as eclectic as the rooms,
with loads of rich and spicy, vegetableladen dishes on offer. To top it off, the
owners are great hosts and a lot of fun.
Twenty kilometres north of Sipalay lies the

little town of Bulata. Turn off here and a
SLEEPING
Calalinan Beach Garden Mini-Hotel
& Restaurant......................5 B2
Casa de la Playa.....................6 C1
EATING
Larena
Caf Larena............................15 C1
La Costa Caf.........................16 C1
Congbagsa
Samyz Pizza Bar & Restaurant..17 B2 Nonoc
Tongo Point
Sandugan Point
C1
C1
Bitaug
Lumangkapan
10
9
6
B2
D3
B3
B2
Sandugan
Dumanhug
17
Candanay
Sur
11
Siquijor
Calalinan
14
Bolos
Tambisan
Paliton
San Antonio
MINDANAO
SEA
Tulapos
16
Enrique
Villanueva
15
Camogao
Libo
Mt Cudtingan
(466m)
Bogo
To Dumaguete (Negros)
5
Cangalwang
Paliton
Beach
Tambisan Point
B3
A3
Salagdoong
Beach
Basak
Bonga
Luyang
Mar
ia Ri
ver
Mt Bandila-an
(557m)
Cantabon
3
1
Cangumantong
4
Salagdoong
Maria
Maria Bay
Solangon
8
13
Tubod
7
Banlas
Point
12
San Juan
Poo
Ponong
Liloan
BULATA & DANJUGAN ISLAND
%035 / pop 81,600
The Spaniards called it Isla del Fuego

(Island of Fire) because of the soft glow
generated by the islands abundant firefly
population. To Filipinos, Siquior (see-keehor) has an aura of mystery and magic;
its mountainous interior is home to a
number of mangkukulam (healers) who
practise not with spooky incantations but
with smelly herbs and soothing oils. This
little island, the smallest of the four Central Visayas provinces, is dotted with laidback beach resorts. A sealed 72km coastal
road circumnavigates the island, affording
unobstructed ocean vistas and an opportunity to pause and take in truly low-key
village life.
Once a part of Bohol and then Negros
Oriental, Siquior didnt become an independent province until 1971, although
economically and politically it still seems
like a little sister to its larger neighbours.
This seems unlikely to change as long as
Cambughay Falls...................2 C3
Cang Anhao Cave.................3 C2
Cantabon Cave......................4 C2
Dacanay Cave......................(see 3)
Sea Explorers Dive Center....(see 7)
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
1 Ambaka'g Baki Cave...........(see 3)
C
To Cebu City (Cebu);
Tagbilaran (Bohol);
Dumaguete (Negros)
Coco Grove Beach Resort.........7

Coral Cay Resort......................8
Islander's Paradise Beach &
Restaurant............................9
Kiwi Dive Resort.....................10
Norwegian Dream Beach
Resort................................11
Princesa Bulakna Resort......... 12
Royal Cliff Resort...................13
Swiss Star Guest House..........14
INFORMATION
Bandila-an Nature Centre......1 C2
ive
Takatuka, but theyre still eccentric by any

normal standard. Bermuda offers a German
menu (meals P200 to P250), a satellite TV
in the restaurant, billiards and videoke.
Driftwood Village Resort (%0920 252 9474; d
with shared/private bathroom P400/600, q P1200) Breezy,
native-style Driftwood Village corners the
market in castaway chic, with comfortable
nipa huts and a pleasant common area with
mezzanine, satellite TV, billiard table and
library. The trained staff was taught cookery by a Thai chef (dishes around P200).
Rounding out the resorts on Sugar Beach
are African-themed Sulu Sunset Beach Resort
(%0919 716 7182; small hut P450, bungalow P700) and
the very plain and modest Langub Beach Garden
Resort (%0910 289 4393; d with fan/air-con P800/1200).
SIQUIJOR
10 km
6 miles
oR
Sleeping & Eating

Bermuda Resort (%0920 529 2583; d P800, nipa tepee
P350) Rooms are not as wacky as those at
bulata.tripod.com; r with air-con from P1000, tent with

air-con from P800; a). It was undergoing reno-
vations at the time of research, but locals

said there were plans to make this secluded
resort a health spa. The resort did have a
range of comfortable, air-conditioned accommodation, from tents to cabins, and
a nice white-sand beach. All we can say
was that when we saw it, it was dead quiet,
and staff seemed unsure how to deal with
a drop-in visitor. Perhaps book ahead to
ensure a welcoming reception.
Three kilometres due west of Bulata,
privately owned Danjugan Island is strictly
off limits to tourists. Managed as a nature
reserve by a Bacolod consortium, with support from Coral Cay, a British NGO, the
42-hectare island has six lagoons, a primary
limestone rainforest and mangroves. It is
home to more than nine species of bat and
58 species of bird, including the endangered
white-breasted eagle and the grey-headed
fishing eagle. People with an ecological interest in the island should contact the Philippine Reef & Rainforest Conservation Foundation
(%441 1658; Bulata barangay hall).
0
0
SIQUIJOR
Po
At the time of research, there was talk of

a road being built direct from the highway
to Sugar Beach that would eliminate the
need for the river crossing.
The beach itself is about 300m long with a
wide expanse of sand that slopes at a perfect
gradient into the sea and not a rock or weed
in sight, so that its ideal for swimming.
All the resorts can offer diving either
through their own dive centres or through
an affiliated dive centre.
long dirt track will lead you to Punta Bulata

White Beach Resort (%/fax 433 5160; http://punta
Cang-asa
Tagibo
Lazi
Minalolan
Kagusua
Beach
Campalanas
Cangmonag
Dapdap
Siquijorenos continue to migrate to Cebu,

Manila or abroad seeking work. Larena is
Siquijors main port and Siquijor town its
capital.
While it is less renowned than other
Visayas locations, there are good dive sites,
mostly off the west coast of the island,
including Paliton Beach (three submarine
caves), Salagdoong Beach (plenty of coral, and
the odd mako shark), Sandugan and Tongo
Point (colourful reefs). Nearby Apo Island
(see p281) has a range of excellent dive sites,
and theres a 30m wreck, a Japanese hospital boat, near the Larena pier.
During the crazy Holy Week celebrations, local healers and revellers put the
Mystique Island on the festival map with
the Lenten Festival of Herbal Preparation; plus
May is a month of almost nonstop fiesta.

There is no airport on Siquijor. The island
is connected by boat to Cebu City (Cebu),
Tagbilaran (Bohol), Dumaguete (Negros)
and Plaridel and Iligan on Mindanao. The
majority of the ferries use the port at Larena,
however Dumaguete and some Cebu-bound

boats depart from Siquior town.
Ocean Jet (%Larena 0919 744 2648) boats have
two daily trips (5.50am and 4pm) from
Larena to Cebu (P750, five hours) and Tagbiliran (P550, three hours).
Delta Fast Ferry operates a service between Siquior town and Dumaguete (P140,
45 minutes) four times a day starting at 7am;
the last trip is at 5.30pm. Montenegro Lines
has twice daily trips between Larena and
Dumaguete.
Getting Around
A great way to explore the island is by bike
or motorcycle. Compared with most other
roadways in the Philippines, the 72km
coastal ring road is practically devoid of
traffic and shade so you can take your
finger off the horn and afford to take in the
view without fear of rear ending the vehicle
in front of you. With leisurely stops along
the way, by car, motorcycle or tricycle, a
circular trip around the island takes the
best part of an entire day. Resorts generally
charge around P1000 per jeep (for three
T H E V I S AYA S
T H E V I S AYA S
294 S I Q U I J O R
people) for guided day trips around the island, and P500 for a motorbike tour; rental
motorbikes are P300 to P500 per day, and
rental mountain bikes P250 per day. From
the central market area of major towns, you
can organise a hubel-hubel tour (P300 to
P400 for an afternoon). The road passes
through the islands main towns and settlements; some glorious stretches of beach, especially on the east coast; and several spurs
that provide access to the interior.
If you are relying on jeepneys to get
around, get started early, as many jeepneys
stop for the day at around 3pm, unless a
late boat arrives in Larena. Jeepneys travel
around the coastal road from Larena to Lazi
(P15) via Maria (P10) and via Siquijor town
(P8). They also do the LarenaMaria leg
via Basak.
You can also hire bangkas to journey between Larena and Siquior town (P150, 45
minutes) for excellent views of the coastline.
LARENA
%035 / pop 11,860
Besides food stalls and several karaoke bars,

the port town of Larena offers little besides
being the main point of entry for travellers
to Siquior.
Information
Theres a post office here, and Internet access at Infomate Cyber Caf (h9am-5pm; per hr
P40). Emailing is offered from some of the
resorts at costly rates.
The Allied Bank in Larena will change
your travellers cheques. Youre better off
going to Optimum at Belcia Pawn Shop
on the main drag, which will change cash
or cheques at bank rates. Some of the neighbouring shops will exchange currency at a
lower rate.
Sleeping
LARENA
The only reason to stay in Larena proper is

if all beach resorts are full.
Luisa & Sons Lodge (s/d P150/200) If proximity to the pier is a must then you cant do
better than Luisa & Sons, though peace
and quiet is hard to come by in the nofrills rooms with fan on the 2nd floor, with
noise not only from the port but from your
neighbours in the cell to either side of you.
Theres a shared bathroom.
SANDUGAN BEACH & AROUND
SIQUIJOR TOWN
Three resorts share Sandugan beach, 6km

north of Larena. Although the beach isnt
quite as wide or white as some of the others
(especially on the east coast), Sandugan is the
most popular tourist destination. A tricycle
or jeepney from the pier will cost P10 to P30,
but a special trip, at night for example, will
cost around P100. Kiwi Dive Resort is the
only full-service dive centre in the area.
Kiwi Dive Resort (%424 0534, 0917 361 5997;
%035 / pop 21,200
www.kiwidiveresort.com/kiwi; r with fan P490, cottage

P790; i) Its a lovely walk down a trellis-
covered pathway from the simple and clean

hillside rooms to the beach, sitting area and
small bar with satellite TV. Theres also a
large wooden cottage with big private porch
at this welcoming resort and dive centre.
Motorbikes, mountain bikes, jeeps and kayaks are available for hire, as well as maps,
guidance and general travel advice. Even
the fan rooms have a few pleasant but rare
touches such as reading lamps and complimentary coffee and tea. Free pick-up from
the pier can be organised.
Casa de la Playa (%377 2291, 0918 546 4709; www
.siquijorcasa.com; r P800, cottages P1000-1450; a) The
Mediterranean-style beachside cottage is
charming, as are several other of the individually designed rooms in the lush hilltop
garden. On offer are healing massages and
yoga, plus less meditative mountain-bike
and motorbike rentals. The restaurant specialises in vegetarian food.
Islanders Paradise Beach & Restaurant (%0919
590 7516; www.islandersparadisebeach.com; cottages P200550) This laid-back resort has several basic
stand-alone nipa huts set in a grass lawn next

to the beach with porches and hammocks for
lounging. Local seafood is served.
Eating
La Costa Caf (%377 2311; dishes P70) Not far
from Caf Larena, La Costa has indoor
dining and a more pleasant outdoor garden festooned with lights. Large menu with
seafood and Filipino standards.
Caf Larena (%377 2245; dishes P70) A large
open-air pavilion on the road from Larena
to the resorts at Sandugan, serving standard
Filipino dishes such as pork adobo (pork
marinated in vinegar and garlic, and stewed
until tender) and beef curry. While the furniture is cheap plastic, the sunset views over
the water are priceless.
Only about 8km from the main port town of

Larena, Siquijor town, the pleasant little capital of Siquijor, has a lively market selling fresh
fish and the usual selection of small shops. A
short walk from the pier, the towns coral-stone
church was built in 1783, and dedicated to St
Francis of Assisi. You can climb the fortresslike bell tower, up a creaky spiral staircase, for
a birds eye glimpse of the town.
Information
Siquior Provincial Tourism Office (%344 2088; Provincial Capital Bldg) has loads of brochures but
little up-to-date information.
Access the Internet at Siquijor Infomate Cybercaf (Legaspi St; h9am-5pm; per hr P40).
Sleeping & Eating

Norwegian Dream Beach Resort (%480 9095, 0916
520 3504; www.thenorwegiandream.com; s/d with shared
bathroom P600/800, cottages P1200) A bunch of tall
palm trees provide minimal shade on the

sparsely landscaped grounds of this resort,
where the 2nd-floor rooms in the large
main building are more utilitarian than
dreamlike. More charming are the four
stand-alone wood cottages that sleep four
and look like miniature homes. All of the
buildings are set back from the beach.
Swiss Stars Guest House (%480 5583, 0918 478
0912; National Hwy; r with fan/air-con from P280/420; i)
Close to Siquior town, there are several large,

comfortable rooms with stone floors and
satellite TV at Swiss Stars, which is hidden
in a lush garden behind the charming little
roadside restaurant (open 7am to 11.30pm);
the restaurant does good pizza (P50).
Calalinan Beach Garden Mini-Hotel & Restaurant (%0912 515 0370; r with toilet & fan P300, r with
fan & cold-water bathroom P400-600) Just 1km from
Siquijor town, it has pokey little rooms
in a beachside villa. The place is run by
Nicolaas, a hefty Dutch bloke who dishes
up equally hefty American breakfasts, beef
curries, homemade bread and other hearty
dishes (P60 to P120).
Samyz Pizza Bar & Restaurant (%344 2129;
Mabini St; pizza P50; a) A fully fledged restaurant with uniformed waitresses and cable
TV, Samyz is a refuge with a wide-ranging
menu, even if the cheese on the pizza seems
suspiciously unnatural. The entrance is
poorly marked; its on the 2nd floor.
S I Q U I J O R S i q u i j o r T o w n 297
BANDILA-AN NATURE CENTRE &

THE CAVES
Sitting atop Siquijors highest peak at 557m
is the Bandila-an Nature Centre, the start of
a walk past natural springs, fluttering butterflies, birds and an enormous variety of
floral species. Almost 10km from Siquijor,
its a slow climb up the mountain road full
of switchbacks, peering down into jungle
ravines. At 6km, youll pass San Antonio,
centre of the ceremonies at Holy Week and
home to many of the healers; to see one, ask
a local to accompany you. Theres no fixed
price for their services, which commonly
involves a brief diagnostic examination and
a smoky mix of herbs and curative oils.
The nature centre itself is really nothing
more than a desk and chair in an otherwise
empty concrete room in the mountain village of Cantabon. Within a few kilometres of
the office are a series of caves including Cang
Anhao, Ambakag Baki, Dacanay Cave and Cantabon Cave; the latter is the most convenient
and well known of the bunch. Its easy to find
a guide who can supply torches (a must) and
safety helmets (an extra precaution). Tours
should cost around P300 (includes equipment and park fee). Expect to get dirty and
wet navigating your way through narrow,
vertical climbs, waist-deep water, and high
humidity. Venture as far inside Cantabon as
youd like, keeping in mind that you have to
retrace your steps to exit.
The best road to Bandila-an Nature Centre and Cantabon from the main ring road
heads up from Siquijor town from beside
the Siquijor Central Elementary School. A
rougher route (OK on motorbike) can be
taken from San Juan.
PALITON BEACH
About 1km from the main road (take the
turn-off at the little church in Paliton village,
near the islands westernmost point), along a
dirt track, is this stunning white-sand beach.
The water is clear as glass and there are wonderful views of Apo Island. Following the
dirt track in, you first pass a small beach
with about a dozen tall palm trees. Youll
find the main beach a little further on.
SAN JUAN
%035
The little town of San Juan is blessed with its

own natural spring swimming pool. The main
T H E V I S AYA S
T H E V I S AYA S
296 S I Q U I J O R L a re n a
road takes a scenic dog-leg around the pool,

set in a landscaped enclosure known as Calipays Spring Park. Divers should head to Sea
Explorers (%481 5007; www.sea-explorers.com; 1 dive
US$20, equipment rental US$5) based at the Coco
Grove Beach Resort.
Sleeping & Eating

Royal Cliff Resort (%481 5038; www.royal-cliff-resort
.de.tf; r from P750) A low-key resort between
San Juan and Tubod, Royal Cliff has five
small, homey cottages with big porches
and quaint furniture. Its set in a garden
overlooking the water and has a tiny beach
(during low tide). There are several hangout spots on the grounds with hammocks
and chairs, and a restaurant as well.
Coral Cay Resort (%481 5024, 0919 269 1269;
www.coralcayresort.com; r with fan P750, cottages from
P1250; as) Coral Cay is on a lovely stretch
of beach at Solangon, about 3km from San

Juan. The charming wood-floored rooms,
set in a garden with coconut trees and orchids, have bamboo and pebble walls and
a sliding panel separating the bedroom
and terrace. Cheaper rooms in the lowslung building towards the back of the
property are functional. There are jeepney
tours, a small thatched-roof open-air gym,
mountain-bike rental, pool tables, plus a
well-stocked bamboo bar and a restaurant
fronting the beach. The restaurant serves
fresh fish (from P150), big breakfasts (P120)
and imported wines.
Coco Grove Beach Resort (%481 5008; cocogrove@
glinesnx.com.ph; r from P1375; as) This resort at
Tubod about 3km southeast of San Juan has
several cottages set back from the beach. Each
is made from wood and bamboo, furnished
in wicker and has a small private terrace
overlooking the leafy landscaped property.
Theres a restaurant and bar directly on the
beach. Even the cheapest rooms have polished wooden floors, air-con, minibar, private veranda and a marble bathroom with
hot water.
LAZI & AROUND

%035 / pop 18,300
The quiet southeastern town of Lazi is bisected by the islands only major river, the
Poo (po-oh). The town is home to the stylishly timeworn, coral-stone San Antonio de
Padua Church, built in 1857. Over the road
is the oldest convent in the Philippines, a
PA N AY I l o i l o C i t y 299
magnificent timber villa, creaky with age

and eerily serene.
Just out of Lazi, turn right at the Caltex service station, and amble up several
kilometres to the refreshing Cambughay Falls
on the Poo River. Above the falls, theres a
parking bay on your left for your jeep (P10)
or motorbike (P5). Steps just across the road
will take you down to this popular swimming spot. Dont leave valuables unattended
as there have been a few reports of theft.
Between the towns of Lazi and Maria,
Kagusua beach is reached via the pretty village of Minalolan look for the turn-off for
the barangay of Nabutay and travel past the
old limestone mine. A good road leads from
the village down to Kagusua, where steep
concrete steps take you down to a string of
beautiful, secluded coves.
Between Kagusua and Salagdoong is the
large horseshoe-shaped Maria Bay where
youll find Princesa Bulakna Resort (%0921 770
just a short commute from the pleasant and

lively regional capital of Iloilo City. Panays
little-explored interior is ringed by a rugged
coastline to the south and west and a more
domesticated one, dotted with impressive
Spanish churches, to the north and east. Adventure sports (particularly mountain biking, trekking, kayaking and rock climbing)
can be arranged out of Iloilo City.
The amazing Ati-Atihan Festival (p322),
held in Kalibo in January, is the most famous fiesta of its kind in the Philippines.
Much of Panays festive tradition can be
traced back to its indigenous tribal groups,
namely the Ati and Ata. There are communities of both groups on the mainland.
For information about anthropologically
minded tours of these tribal areas see Panay
Adventures Tours, p300.
and restaurants. Its a logical base for combining a trip to Boracay with Guimaras (p306),
which is only a short hop away. Downtown
Iloilo City is surrounded by three old suburbs: Molo, Jaro and La Paz (la-pass).
Information
AIR
EMERGENCY
2273, in Dumaguete 035-225 1036; www.princesabulakna

.com; s/d P800/1500; a). In addition to having
Apart from the main airport in Iloilo City,

theres a string of domestic airports along
Panays north coast whisking people to and
from Boracay. These are in the towns of Caticlan, Kalibo and Roxas. Connections are to
Manila, Cebu City, Davao on Mindanao and
Puerto Princesa on Palawan. See the Iloilo
City, Caticlan, Kalibo and Roxas sections for
more information on air transport.
Police department (%337 5511; General Luna St)

Internet cafs are all over town, and the
going rate is around P30 per hour. There
are cafs in all the shopping malls, and
some hotels have business centres with Internet access. Netopia (Robinsons Place; h9am9pm) has rows and rows of computers.
BOAT
MEDICAL SERVICES
Iloilo City has links to Negros, Cebu, Luzon,

Mindanao and Palawan. Other ports service the popular routes to Manila and Cebu
City. Roxas offers a connection with Masbate, Kalibo with Sibuyan and Romblon
Islands, and Caticlan with Tablas, Caribao
and occasionally Sibuyan Island and, of
course, Boracay. Other smaller ports are
San Jos, Estancia, Culasi and Jordan and
Suclaran on Guimaras.
See the individual Getting There & Away
entries for more information.
Iloilo Doctors Hospital (%337 7702; West Ave)

St Pauls Hospital (%337 2741; General Luna St)
PANAY
ILOILO CITY
Metrobank (Quezon St) Theres another branch on
%033 / pop 365,820
General Luna St.
Even though Panay is a microcosm of everything the Visayas has to offer, the long
white-sand beach at Boracay is all that many
visitors to the region, or for that matter the
country, ever see. The rest of the region
keeps a low tourism profile, which helps
explain the appeal of tropical Guimaras
Iloilo (ee-lo-ee-lo) City, the hub of Panay

once known as the Queen City of the South,
is the most cosmopolitan city in the Visayas
after Cebu. It has a compact, walkable downtown, a relatively vibrant nightlife and music
scene fuelled by the student population,
and an excellent choice of accommodation
PNB (cnr General Luna & Valeria Sts)
very nice bamboo and concrete cottages

with satellite TV overlooking the beach,
it rents tents (P300) that can be pitched
on the well-landscaped property. Theres a
nice restaurant with indoor/outdoor seating and all the privacy you could want.
SALAGDOONG & TALINGTING

Billed as the islands most picturesque beach,
Salagdoong, a few kilometres past Maria,
has pristine, white-sand coves and a rocky
outcrop with a pagoda. There are several
picnic shelters (P30 to P50) and barbecues
for hire (P150) as well as a kiosk.
The bumpy old turn-off road to Salagdoong is almost 2km long, and winds its
way through a stand of molave trees.
The sleepy town of Talingting has a beautiful, sweeping boulevard skirting the beach
and some magnificent old trees.
History
Iloilo City, the last capital of the Spanish
empire in Asia, was surrendered to the Filipino Revolutionary Army in 1898 after Manila had already fallen to invading American
forces. The seat of government was temporarily transferred here, as the citys deepwater port had already made it an important
centre of trade and commerce with Europe.
Only a week later a 3000-strong American
force shelled and took the city, thus marking
the official beginning of the war of independence against the USA.
INTERNET ACCESS
MONEY
Many of Iloilo Citys banks, most of which

have ATMs, are huddled around the central
area along Iznart St. You can also find banks
in or around the main shopping malls SM
City, SM Robinsons Mall and the Atrium.
BPI (Iznart St) There are also two branches on General
Luna St and one in Amigo Plaza.
Equitable PCI Bank (Ledesma St) There are two other

branches on Iznart St and another two on Quezon St.
TOURIST INFORMATION
Department of Tourism (%335 0245, 337 5411;

deptour6@mozcom.com; Capitol Grounds, Bonifacio Dr;
h9.30am-5.30pm Mon-Sat) A large office next to the
Museo Iloilo. Good resource for transport info and free maps.
T H E V I S AYA S
T H E V I S AYA S
298 PA N AY
PA N AY 301
Panay
Iloilo has a welcoming community of adventurers ready and willing to take you scuba
diving, rock climbing, mountaineering, mountain
biking, kayaking and caving. Some of the possibilities on offer are: climbing Mt Madja-as,
rock climbing and caving in Bulabog PutiAn National Park, and scuba diving and
mountain biking around Guimaras.
Tours around Iloilo, Guimaras and Panay
can be arranged for all tastes and budgets
through Panay Adventures Tours (%0918 778 4364,
0916 716 3748; panay_adventures@yahoo.com.ph), run by
Daisy and Reuel Yanson. Daisy, an anthropologist and amateur historian, specialises
in eco-cultural tours to various tribal groups
around Panay and Guimaras including the
Aetas and Bukidnon. Both Daisy and Reuel,
Tablas
Island
Several outer suburbs and towns around Iloilo City proper hold annual kalabaw (water
buffalo) races. One such event is held in early
May in Pavia, 5km north of Iloilo City.
Sleeping
Theres a surfeit of good-value accommodation in Iloilo; much of it is conveniently
To
Manila
Looc
Mandaon
ROMBLON
Santa Fe
MASBATE
San Carabao Island
Jos
SIBUYAN
SEA
MASBATE
See Boracay
Map (p326)
Unidos
Caticlan
Libertad
Malay
Habana
Kurong
Pooc
Ata Village
Nabas
Buruanga
Pawa
Ibajay
Boracay
Jin
Falls
Pandan
Kalibo
Malumpati
Pandan
Bay
tolo
l o Ch
an
Dumaguit
Mt Usigan
(1051m)
Sebaste
Batan
Roxas
Pan-ay
Altavas
AKLAN Balete
Balasan
Mt
Madja-as
(2090m)
Culasi
Mararison
Island
Tibiao
Barbaza
Bugtong
Bato
Falls
Mt Baloy
(1729m)
ANTIQU
Valderrama
To Manila
Belison
San
Remigio
Tapaz
Dumarao
Calinog
Tagubanhan
Island
Ati
Settlement
Barotac Viejo
ILOILO
Dingle
Igbon
Island
Ajuy
Passi
Lambunao
BULABOG PUTI-AN
NATIONAL PARK
S
a
Pototan
Cabatuan
Igbaras
Zarraga
a
t r
i t
To Cebu
City (Cebu)
Lawakan
Island
Cadiz Viejo
Victorias
Dumangas
Santa
Barbara
Leon
Silay
Pavia
Tigbauan
Miagao
San
Joaquin
Concepcion
San Rafael
Maasin
Sibalom
TobiasFornier
Sara
PANAY
Mt Inaman
(1350m)
San Jos
(Antique)
San
Dionisio Pan de
Azucar
Island
Cuartero
im
Patnongon
CAPIZ
Sicogon
Is
Mt Llorente
(1344m)
Dao
Estancia
Batad
President
Roxas
Sigma
Jamindan
Mt Nausang
(1650m)
Mt Nangtud
(2049m)
Bugasong
Mambusao
Lipata
Batbatan
Island
Oton
Guimbal
Iloilo
City
Buenavista
Bacolod
Jordan
Suclaran
NEGROS
San Miguel
Tiolas
Guimaras
Island
Nueva
Valencia
Dao
GUIMARAS
Cabalagnan
Nogas
Island
To Cebu City
(Cebu)
ne l
New
Washington
Banga
To Manila
To Cuyo
Islands
(Palawan)
To
Milagros
(Masbate);
Catarman
Balud (Samar);
Tacloban
(Leyte)
Tangalan
Libertad
Festivals & Events

Dinagyang Festival (Jan) Celebrating Santo Nio (Child
Jesus) with outrageous costumes and dances, this threeday mardi grasstyle party takes place in the fourth week
of January.
Nuestra Seora de la Candelaria (Feast of Our Lady
of Candles; 2 Feb) As much a religious ritual as it is a good
old-fashioned street party, this event includes the blessing
of all sorts of candles, and a spangly procession headed by
the years Jaro fiesta queen.
Paraw Regatta (late Feb-early Mar) A race from Iloilo
City over to Guimaras in traditional sailing outriggers
called paraw. Dating back to the 16th century, this is a
high-speed version of the trip supposedly taken by Panays
ancient Malay settlers on their journey to the island from
Borneo. Its held in late February or early March depending
on the weather.
Spanish-Filipino Friendship Day (Jun) Celebrated the
last week of June for the first time in 2005 in an attempt to
revitalise relations between the two countries.
50 km
30 miles
To Cajidiocan
(Sibuyan Island);
Sibuyan
Romblon Town
Island
(Romblon Island)
San Fernando
P3000) to Nogas Island off the southern

coast of Antique province.
If your muscles have had a bruising or if
you just need a respite from the heat, check
out Spa Riviera (%509 0209; 2nd fl, Jabez Bldg) on
General Luna St. A shiatsu massage costs
P350.
To
Odiongan
(Tablas
Island);
Manila
R a
n g
e
Activities
109, John B Lacson Colleges Foundation, MH del Pilar St,

Molo) offers diving trips (per person per day
0
0
PANAY
a s
l e r
i l
r d
C o
The large Museo Iloilo (Bonifacio Dr; adult/child

P15/5; h9am-noon & 1.30-5pm Mon-Sat) has some
interesting permanent displays, including
prehistoric relics of Panay, treasure plucked
from sunken ships, and jewellery unearthed
from Spanish burial sites. Theres usually a
temporary exhibition of some sort.
Just west of the city centre is the area
known as Molo. Once a separate town, its
now more or less part of Iloilo City proper,
but it retains its independence with a large,
central plaza. Overlooking the plaza is St
Annes Church, a 19th-century, Gothic renaissance, coral-stone structure with tall, twin
spires and a domed roof. Molo is a P5.50
jeepney ride from downtown Iloilo.
North of Iloilo proper, over the Forbes
Bridge (Bonifacio Dr) are the suburbs of La
Paz and Jaro. Both are home to a number of
ancestral houses and impressive churches.
Well worth a visit is Jaros Belfry Plaza, a
P5.50 jeepney ride from downtown (look
for jeepneys marked Jaro CPU or Jaro
Liko). The plaza is dominated by the Belfry
Tower, a lonely, old figure standing high and
handsome on the edge of the square.
Across the road is the huge Jaro Metropolitan Cathedral, the seat of the Catholic diocese
in the western Visayas. Climb the cathedrals
front steps and youll come face to face with
the Shrine to the Divine Infant and Nuestra
Seora de la Candelaria, which is neon-lit at
night. An annual feast and fiesta (see right)
is held here in honour of the churchs patron saint, Seora de la Candelaria.
keen mountain bikers, are passionate about

Panay and cater to more energetic itineraries. An out-of-town day in the van with Daisys fascinating narrative costs P3000, petrol
included. They also offer cheaper car tours
and customised camping trips.
If you drop by the Tribu Outdoor Shop & Climbing Gym (%337 1961; h9am-8pm) on the ground
floor of the Amigo Plaza (a shopping mall
and hotel), youll see posted notices of upand-coming caving, trekking and kayaking
trips theres usually one a month. Ask Jemy
or Roni (%092 0257 0644, 092 628 3345) for info on
bargain-basement day trips (P180 per day).
Rates include guide and transport fees.
Far East Scuba Institute Inc (%337 5687; Rm
Sights
Bago
Pulupandan
NEGROS
OCCIDENTAL
Valladolid
Anini-y
La Carlota
See Guimaras Map (p307)
Panay Gulf
To Cuyo Islands;
Puerta Princesa
(Palawan)
To Cagayan de Oro; Zamboanga;

General Santos; Ozamis; Iligan
Cotabato (Mindanao)
Hinigaran
NEGROS
ORIENTAL
T H E V I S AYA S
T H E V I S AYA S
300 PA N AY I l o i l o C i t y
Iloilo City
0
0
ILOILO CITY
A
15
Bu
os
St
Lu
32
rg
Jaro
Metropolitan
Cathedral
43
na
Jalandoni St
St
Jaro
ab
Diversion Rd
ini
St
aS
an
rv
e
Hu
38
La Paz
41
Ri
za
aS
v
no
er
25
Yulo St
42
11
City
Proper
Blumen
24
tritt St
46
49
Ra
Post Office &

Immigration
Office Plaza
Libertad
Ge
ne
Blanco St
ra
Gu
am
or
52
St
Iloilo Strait
located on General Luna St between Forbes

Bridge and Diversion Rd.
BUDGET
Highway 21 Pension House (%335 1839; General

Luna St; s/d P500/700) This is more a hotel than
a pension house, with small, efficiently designed rooms that are kept immaculate. The
professional staff will help store baggage if
you want to spend a few nights in Guimaras
or further afield. Its next to the Barcel
Serabia Manor Hotel complex.
Pensione del Carmen (%338 1626; General Luna
St; s/d P600/650; a) Feel less like a tourist at
this large family home overlooking the river.
Each of the several rooms are individually decorated; though room three on the
ue
lle
Lo
47
ne
City Corporate Inn.................... 19

Eon Centennial Plaza
Hotel.................................. 20
Four Seasons Hotel....................21
Highway 21 Pension House......22
Iloilo Business Hotel..................23
Iloilo Grand Hotel..................... 24
Iloilo Midtown Hotel.................25
Pensione del Carmen.................26
Residence Hotel........................27
Residence Hotel (%338 1091; General Luna St; s/d

P600/790; a) The glass-and-concrete faade
of this hotel isnt exactly residential looking, but the river-view rooms with cable TV
and wooden floors are good value. Theres
a riverfront restaurant.
MIDRANGE
n
ra
Rotary
Park
lH
ug
he
sS
dro
e
Fort San P
To
r
DGuimaras
Island
53
river side is especially spacious and homey.

Theres a large communal guest balcony, and
guests can make use of Carmens kitchen.
Charter House Pension House (%508 1853; s/d
P450/700; a) Tucked in the back of the Barcel
Serabia Manor Hotel complex and owned by
the same family, Charter House has large
rooms surrounding a sunny courtyard and
garden. The furnishings are beginning to age
and TVs are small and channel challenged.
City Corporate Inn (%509 8388; cci_iloilo@yahoo
.com; cnr Rizal & Guanco Sts; s/d P595/695; a) A victim of mistaken identity its neither corporate nor innlike this hotel has a bright,
cheerful lobby and small well-kept rooms.
Across from the University of Iloilo and
within walking distance of the port.
C4
B4
B3
A3
A2
C4
C3
B3
B3
EATING
Al Dente.................................(see 18)
As Mixx Restaurant................(see 45)
Butot Balat................................28 A2
Caf Tijuana............................. 29 A3
Calzada Grill............................. 30 A2
Coffee Break.............................31 B3
Jalandoni Seafood Stalls ...........32 A1
Jollibee...................................(see 44)
Kims Bob...............................(see 45)
Krua Thai................................(see 36)
Marina...................................... 33 A3
Nes & Tat's Manokan &
Seafoods...............................34 A1
Ocean City Seafood &
Restaurant............................35 A3
Summer House.......................(see 25)
Taza......................................... 36 A2
St
St
19
Central
Market
Du
St
St
la
De
an
De Leon St
48
Fishing Port
To Iloilo
International
Port (1km)
New Muelle
Loney Bridge
2
39
St
Fuentes St
St 45
Quezon St
44
sa
sma
Rizal
1
6
Ba
50
Lede
12
51
20
SLEEPING
Barcel Sarabia Manor Hotel..... 18 A3
Charter House Pension House..(see 18)
40
Valeria St
21
Liberation St
Mabini St
t
aS
13
University of
San Agustin
Jalandoni St
Delgado St
Quirino Lopez
Bridge
16
14
JM
To Molo (50m);
St Anne's Church
(50m); Arevelo;
Breakthrough
Restaurant (6km)
Villa Regatta (6km)
31
22
26
tun
West Ave
10
35
na St
General Lu 17
18
For
27
29
Dr
To Hotel del Rio;

Bus Station (1km)
Tanza St
Riv
ilo
Ilo
St
33
Bonifacio
Forbes
Bridge
Ortiz St
ch
He
23
INFORMATION
BPI.............................................. 1 C3
BPI.............................................. 2 C3
BPI..............................................3 B3
BPI..........................................(see 39)
Department of Tourism............... 4 C3
Equitable PCI Bank...................... 5 C3
Equitable PCI Bank......................6 B3
Equitable PCI Bank......................7 B3
Far East Scuba Institute............. 10 A3
Metrobank................................11 B3
Metrobank.............................(see 35)
Netopia...................................(see 45)
PNB...........................................12 B3
Police........................................13 B3
St Pauls Hospital......................14 B3
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Belfry Plaza................................15 B1
Museo Iloilo.............................. 16 C3
Spa Riviera................................17 B3
Tribu Outdoor Shop & Climbing
Gym...................................(see 39)
lS
Iznart St
36
37
co
30
Gomez St
28
To Pavia
(3.5km)
To Mandurriao
Airport (1km);
Pepe Thai (1km)
34
1 km
0.5 miles
Iloilo Grand Hotel (%335 1801; ilgrandhotel@globelines

.com.ph; Iznart St; s/d P865/980) A newcomer to the
Iloilo hotel scene, the Grand is in the centre
of the old business district, near the port for
Bacolod and Guimaras. Gleaming marble
seems to be everywhere and the immaculate
rooms are modern and comfortable even if
the less expensive ones suffer from a lack
of natural light.
Eon Centennial Plaza Hotel (%337 2277; centen
nial.plaza1@skyinet.net; Jalandoni St; s/d P1090/1250; a)
Though its not the most centrally located

hotel, it is on a relatively quiet block and little perks such as complimentary breakfast,
free newspapers and coffee and tea add to
the Eons appeal. Some of the large, carpeted rooms have good views, and it has
three restaurants.
Iloilo Midtown Hotel (%336 6888; midtownhotel@
DRINKING
Club Verz...............................(see 37)
Flow Bar.................................(see 37)
O2............................................ 37 A2
Pier 16......................................38 A2
SHOPPING
Amigo Plaza............................. 39
Atrium Shopping Mall............... 40
Gaisano City Shopping
Mall.....................................41
Marymart Mall..........................42
SM City.....................................43
SM Mall....................................44
SM Robinson's Mall..................45
C3
C3
B2
B3
A1
B3
B4
TRANSPORT
Boats to Bacolod.......................46 C3
Boats to Buenavista Wharf
(Guimaras)........................... 47 D4
Boats to Jordan (Guimaras)....... 48 C4
Boats to Jordan (Guimaras)....... 49 C4
Ceres Bus Terminal...................50 B4
Jeepneys to Miag-ao & San
Joaquin.................................51 B3
Negros Navigation..................(see 46)
Sulpicio Lines............................ 52 D4
Trans-Asia Shipping.................. 53 D4
WG&A SuperFerry..................(see 46)
rooms fronting the street though these also

get the best light. All have modern amenities and are well kept.
Four-Season Hotel (%336 1070; www.four-season
hotel.com; cnr Delgado & Fuente Sts; s/d from P850/950;
a) This is a friendly, centrally located hotel
with standard, modern rooms. The 1st-floor

caf serves all-you-can-eat breakfast (P88).
Iloilo Business Hotel (%321 3769; fax 321 3769;
Benigno Aquino Ave; s/d P1250/1500; a) Upper-floor
rooms here have good views in this, the
newest hotel and one of the tallest buildings in the city, part of the Smallville bar and
restaurant complex. Its a well-managed and
professionally run place, if a bit antiseptic.
TOP END
Hotel del Rio (%335 1171; hdelrio@iloilo.net; MH Del

Pilar St; s P1430-1870, d P1680-2120; as) At the
slightly ageing grand dame of Iloilo, the
room furnishings are a little dated but comfortable. Behind the main building complex
is one of the nicer outdoor spots on the
river, with a pool, bar, live music nightly
and Ohana, a good Japanese restaurant.
Barcel Sarabia Manor Hotel (% 335 1021;
iloilo.worldtelphil.com; 888 Yulo St; s/d P732/854; a)
www.barcelo.com; General Luna St; s/d from P1600/2100;

as) Part convention centre, part mini-
The lobby of this tall, centrally located hotel

shares ground floor space with the Summer House restaurant. Noise is an issue in
city, this large complex has a gym, hair

salon, swimming pool, business and travel
centre and the excellent Al Dente restaurant,
T H E V I S AYA S
T H E V I S AYA S
plus Thai and Japanese restaurants down

the driveway towards the rear. Rooms are
large and have all modern amenities.
Eating
Outside of Cebu, Iloilo has the best and
most diverse dining in the Visayas. Seafood
lovers can chow down on beachside allyou-can eat buffets in Arevelo to the west
of the centre. Diversion Rd has become the
restaurant strip between the river and SM
City mall especially with the addition of
the Smallville complex, which itself houses
half-a-dozen restaurants. To get there,
catch a Leganes or Santa Barbara jeepney
from General Luna St (P5.50). In addition,
most of the midrange and top-end hotels
have at least one restaurant.
INTERNATIONAL & FILIPINO
Pepe Thai (% 321 2735; Diversion Rd; dishes P80;

h10am-late Mon-Sat) Fabulous and creative
authentic Thai cuisine in an open-air treehouse. Peppy Thai, at the northern end of
Diversion Rd (in the suburb of Jaro) looks
humble from the street but the Thai-trained
chef and co-owner whips up a constantly
changing small array of dishes such as fried
paper squid and spicy coriander noodles.
Al Dente (%336 7813; Barcel Sarabia Manor Hotel,
General Luna St; dishes P120-340; h11am-midnight SunThu, 11am-2am Fri & Sat) Pauline, a New York
trained chef, runs this classy Italian bistro

with big-city panache and a connoisseurs
THE AUTHORS CHOICE
Villa Regatta (% 338 9715; Sto Nio Sur,
Arevelo; buffet P190) Owned and operated
by Pauline of Al Dente, Villa Regatta, the
newest addition to the Arevelo beachfront
seafood scene, serves up about the most
spectacular Friday night all-you-can-eat
buffet in the archipelago. Excuse the hyperbole, since this author inevitably has not
eaten everywhere, but after several trips to
the buffet, and gorging on creatively done
crab, lobster, shrimp, mussels, squid and
so on, he made this pronouncement to his
fellow diners and he will stick to it. Other
nights of the week, the gluttony is toned
down. Seating is in a large nipa pavilion
or directly on the beach. Get here by Calumpang jeepney (P5) or by taxi (P50).
attention to detail. The Italian and European dishes such as deep-fried squid, tagliatelle and pizzas (P150) are large and tasty.
On Wednesdays (lunch and dinner), allyou-can-eat meals are great value (P150).
Caf Tijuana (%508 4114; General Luna St; dishes P50)
A Mexican restaurant that hits the standard
design clichs sombreros, cacti etc and
has a large, attractive outdoor dining area in
the back. Besides excellent tacos (P43) and
burritos (P45), Tijuanas menu has burgers, seafood and Filipino dishes. Wash it all
down with a tequila or mango margarita.
Krua Thai (%321 3784; Smallville Complex, Diversion Rd; mains P130) A beautifully and tastefully
designed Thai restaurant in the Smallville
complex with uniformed waiters, traditional
Thai art and teak walls. Most importantly,
it serves excellent food including crispy fish
with mango salad (P180).
Taza (%508 7413; Smallville Complex, Diversion Rd;
mains P120; h8am-midnight Mon-Thu & Sun, 7am-2am Fri &
Sat) A hip, modern Italian bistro with outdoor
seating serving pastas (P120), panini sandwiches (P120) and specials such as stuffed
chicken schnitzel and Spanish chorizo.
As Mixx Restaurant (%337 0471; SM Robinsons
Mall; mains P60) The mix (extra x is silent)
refers to the combo of Mediterranean and
Asian cuisines, while the dcor is all hip and
modern. For 10% more you can eat in the
small, separate air-con room.
Kims Bob (%337 7959; Robinsons Place; dishes from
P150) A Korean grocery-cum-restaurant with
a few tables and a few aisles of groceries. Bulgogi (P200) and pot stew with kimchi (fermented vegetable; P170) are especially good.
Summer House (Iloilo Midtown Hotel; dishes P140) Lucite tables, plastic chairs and speedy service
lend this popular Chinese and Filipino eatery a fast-food air, however the portions are
large and the food quite good. Located on the
ground floor of the Iloilo Midtown Hotel.
Calzada Grill (Diversion Rd; set meals P40-70; h6pm3am) A popular place for Filipino food, live
music and 24-hour pool tables.
Coffee Break (General Luna St; h24hr) An inexpensive Starbucks imitator with all the perks,
such as a magazine and newspaper rack,
frappuccino-like drinks, and sandwiches,
but with better music.
SEAFOOD
The motto for these restaurants is live is

better than fresh.
Breakthrough Restaurant (Arevelo; fish meals

around P100; h7.30am-9pm) An open-air, beachside restaurant near the Villa Regatta in
Arevelo. The menu is there for you to see:
fish, lobster, crab, oysters etc, all on display.
Point, sit, wait and finally eat.
Ocean City Seafood & Restaurant (%336 0118;
General Luna St; dishes P100) The air-con side of
this popular restaurant is large and plain
and the other side frequently has cheesy
live pop music, but the seafood is fresh and
tasty. It also has some speciality dishes such
as Peking duck (P600 for half) and panfried pigeon (P200 a piece).
Nes & Tats Manokan & Seafoods (%321 2571, 509
3112; Diversion Rd; meals P55-100), Butot Balat (%321
3752; Diversion Rd; mains P125) and Marina (%320
1230; Diversion Rd; meals P35-150) are three deservedly popular point-and eat-restaurants with
breezy open-air dining.
Jalandoni Seafood Stalls (Diversion Rd; meals P25100) is a row of street stalls selling good,
cheap, barbecued seafood including prawns
for P120 per kilogram.
Drinking & Entertainment

Iloilo is second only to Cebu in the Visayas in terms of having a vibrant and active nightlife and music scene. Fuelled by
a significant university population, bands
perform nightly at many of the popular bars
while most rock late into the night on weekends. The Smallville complex on Diversion
Rd has several happening bars that attract
a fashionable crowd.
Pier 16 (%321 3475; h6pm-2am) A club, bar
and restaurant in one. It has a large openair patio where big music acts from Manila
or Cebu sometimes perform. Theres a big
screen for nightly movies and good food
including crispy chicken (P65) and squid
(P100).
O2 (h 5pm-3am), which has live music
nightly, Club Verz (h6pm-3am), which parties
with a DJ, and Flow Bar (%6pm-3am) are all in
the Smallville complex.
Shopping
The main shopping centre in town is the
sparkling new downtown SM Robinsons
Mall. The older flagship SM City (Diversion
Rd; h9am-8pm) has movie theatres as well;
there are two other SM branches around
town. Gaisanos City, Atrium and Marymart
round out the shopping-mall roster.

All of the shopping plazas have ticketing
offices open 9am to 8pm daily.
AIR
Airline offices at Iloilos Mandurriao airport

(%320 8048), 8km northwest of downtown,
include Cebu Pacific (%320 6889), PAL (%320
3030/3131/7151) and Air Philippines (% 320
8048/49/52). Taxis to the airport cost P100;
jeepneys cost P10.
Cebu Pacific and PAL fly between Cebu
City and Iloilo City once or twice daily (30
minutes).
Cebu Pacific, PAL and Air Philippines
have several flights daily between Manila
and Iloilo (one hour).
Cebu Pacific flies daily from Iloilo City
to Davao (two hours) via Cebu City in the
early morning. Air Philippines and PAL fly
the same route several times a week.
PAL flies from Iloilo to Puerta Princesa
(one hour) and back four times per week.
BOAT
Negros Navigation and WG&A Superferry

have offices at the dock where Bacolod
boats leave. Trans-Asia Shipping is based
at the Foreign Pier. Sulpicio Lines is on Muelle Loney St.
Cebu & Negros
See p238 and p285 for information on boat

services between Iloilo City and Cebu City,
and Iloilo City and Bacolod.
Guimaras
There are plenty of daily ferries and pumpboats between Iloilo City and Guimaras
main ports of Buenavista Wharf and Jordan. See p317 for more information.
Luzon
Negros Navigation goes to Manila most

days (P1695, 20 hours). Sulpicio leaves for
Manila twice a week (P895, 20 hours, or via
Estancia 30 hours). WG&A SuperFerry has
boats to Manila three days a week (P1245,
seven hours).
Mindanao
Negros Navigation has a once-weekly boat

to Cagayan de Oro (P1260, 14 hours); to
Zamboanga (P765, 17 hours), which continues on to General Santos (P1270, 33
T H E V I S AYA S
T H E V I S AYA S
PA N AY G u i m a r a s 307
Guimaras
The airport is about 4km northwest of the

town centre behind SM City mall, and a taxi
there costs about P100.
The main destination outside Iloilo City is

Caticlan (as a launching pad to Boracay).
Buses and vans run continually all morning
to Caticlan (nonair-con/air-con P112/123,
5 hours), slowing down or stopping service around 1pm. Other destinations include
Kalibo (P68, four hours), Roxas (P47, three
hours), and Estancia (P52, 3 hours). These
are serviced by a variety of bus lines, including Ceres Bus Liner (%321 2491/2371, 337 0456),
with buses starting before dawn and running
every 30 minutes until around 4pm. Air-con
buses are up to 30% more expensive.
Ceres buses also ply the recently instituted nautical highway route between Iloilo and Cubao, Manila. There are three
early-morning trips daily (nonair-con/aircon P1035/1305, 17 hours, hourly 3am to
5am). Two legs of this route involve ferry
transport.
Also servicing the route to Caticlan (and
several other major destinations) are privately operated (and usually air-con) L-300
minibuses that, when full, head off along
standard bus and jeepney routes for around
25% above the usual bus fare. Drivers tout
for passengers at most of the main bus stations. Direct trips to Caticlan (P130) or Kalibo (P100) from Iloilo City can cut down
travelling time by about half an hour, and are
a more cushy way to travel. There are jeepneys running all day every day to towns west
of Iloilo; they may terminate in these places,
or simply drop you off and keep going.
Pavia
Siete Pecados
Islands
PANAY
Mountain Bike Route 1

(Tour Course)
CAR
The ever-reliable jeepney offers a great way

to explore Iloilo. For the standard P5.50
around-town rate, jeepneys marked La
Paz, Jaro and Liko will take you north of
central Iloilo; and Molo and Arevelo will
take you west. For a little more you can get
to Guimbal (P7.50), Tigbauan (P9), Miagao
(P15) and San Joaquin (P20).
Manduriao
Jaro
Molo
Arevalo
Higante
Cave
The helpful tourist office (%503 0328; www.guima

ras.gov.ph; h7.30am-5pm) at Hoskyn Port in Jordan (hoar-daan) is worth a stop even just as a
refuge to keep the dozens of tricycle drivers at
San Miguel
Navalas
Bacjao
2
Santo
Rosario
Il
Buenavista
10
Jordan
Bondulan
Point
Pina
Aguilar
Macopo
Falls
Santa
Teresa
Isla
Naburot
Santa Ana
Bay
Nueva
Valencia
Mt Bontoc
Nadulao
Island
GUIMARAS
Sebaste
Mt
Acdan
Lusaran
Point
Nalunga
Island
Ususan
Island
Inampulugan
Island
Seraray
6
Island
San Isidro
Cabalagnan
Savacion
Taklong
Island
Taklong Island
Marine Reserve
To
Bacolod
Bago
Pulupandan
Ba
go
Rive
NEGROS
OCCIDENTAL
Valladolid
NEGROS
Nao-wai Island
Cabalagnan
Point
Yato
Island
B2
SLEEPING
Baras Beach Resort.......................5 A3
Costa Aguada Island Resort.........6 C4
Isla Naburot Resort......................7 A3
Puerto del Mar.............................8 A3
Raymen Beach Resort................(see 8)
Valle Verde Mountain Spring
Resort......................................9 A3
TRANSPORT
Buenavista Wharf.......................10 B2
Mt Balacbacan
GUIMARAS
ISLAND
Tandug
Island
B2
C1
B2
Cabano
Mt Diguman
Lawi
Alubihod Beach
Suclaran
San
Miguel
1
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

National Mango Research &
Development Centre................1
Navalas Church............................2
Oro Verde Mango Plantation.......3
Our Lady of the Philippines
Trappist Monastery.................4
Mt Balagua
Hoskyn
Port
Espinosa
%033 / pop 141,500
Information
Iloilo
City
Oton
GUIMARAS
Just a short boat ride from urban Iloilo and
Panay, Guimaras is an example of what a
divide of only a few kilometres of water
can mean in terms of development. But this
gulf, both physical and mental, only heightens Guimaras allure. Its reputation rests
squarely on the renown of its sweet mangoes, but it attracts visitors because of its
winding scenic roads (perfect for biking),
beaches, the coastal area around Alubihod
Beach in Santa Ana Bay and Baras Beach
in Lawi Bay, and opportunities for islandhopping to the south and east.
San Miguel, the islands laid-back capital,
is not much more than a wide, main street.
It has a ticketing office, bakeries and other
eateries, though like the rest of the island it
was Internet-free at the time of research.
Mountain Bike Route 2

(Extreme Course)
ILOILO
St
ra
i t
Hire-car companies usually provide drivers

for a similar price to cars without drivers.
Rates within the citys limits for hire cars
are around P500 for the first three hours
then P150 for succeeding hours; and for aircon vans, P850 for the first three hours then
P200 per hour. Companies include Sarabia
Manor Hotel (%335 1021) and Lexus Rent-ACar (%335 1171). Panay Adventures Tours
(p300) has comparable rates, with optional
tour-guiding thrown in.
10 km
6 miles
Legenes
San Jos
JEEPNEY
BUS
0
0
GUIMARAS
S t
r a
i t
Milagrosa J-Shipping (%335 0955) has a boat

twice a week for Cuyo Islands (P220, 12
hours) that continues on to Puerta Princesa
(tourist class P855, 38 hours) before returning to Iloilo City.
TO/FROM THE AIRPORT
G uima
r a s
Palawan
Getting Around
oi
l o
hours); and to Ozamis (P1215, 14 hours),

which continues on to Iligan (P1215, 20
hours).
Sulpicio goes to Zamboanga/General
Santos four afternoons a week (P548/930,
13 to 16 hours), and to Cotabato (via Zamboanga; P780, 48 hours) once a week.
SuperFerry has a once-weekly trip to
General Santos (P1200, 24 hours); to Davao
(P1200, 34 hours); to Cagayan de Oro (P1190,
13 hours); to Iligan (P1145, 14 hours); and to
Ozamis (P1145, 18 hours).
La Carlota
Nagarao Island
Panubulon Island
Guiuanon Island
Panay
Gulf
To Unisan Islands;
Malingin Islands
bay while sorting out plans. Transport rates

for all island destinations are posted here.
Ask at Hoskyn Port for Richard Caro (%0914
501 537), an enterprising and knowledgeable
tricycle driver and guide.
Sights
The time-ravaged Navalas Church is about
7km from Buenavista on the northern end
of the island. Built in the 17th century, the
limestone church is fronted by some beautiful, big trees and a squat, roofless belltower.
Head towards the water, and youll reach
the summer retreat of the wealthy Lopez
family, known as Roca Encantada (Enchanted
Rock). From here you can often hire pumpboats to explore an uninhabited cluster of
seven islands to the north, known as Siete

Pecados, or the Islands of Seven Sins. Its a
P300 tricycle ride to the area from Jordan.
To see Guimaras famous mangoes up
close, try Oro Verde mango plantation (%/fax 0912
520 0354), near Buenavista. Over 50,000 trees
(some over 100 years old) are grown on the
plantation, a busy place come harvest time in
April and May (see p308). Contact the plantation to make an appointment to visit.
Just outside San Miguel on the road to
Lawi, youll find the 270-hectare National
Mango Research & Development Centre (%237
0912; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri), of interest only to
mangophiles; information is available on
mango varieties, current research projects
and mango-product processes.
T H E V I S AYA S
T H E V I S AYA S
306 PA N AY G u i m a r a s
Our Lady of the Philippines Trappist Monastery,

on the main road south of San Miguel, is
the only mens monastery in the Philippines under the Cistercian order. This wellkept complex, founded in 1972, includes
a turreted accommodation-and-seminar
building, a modern church with blindingly
well-polished tiles that seems slightly out
of place here, and some prime farmland.
Theres accommodation here see below.
You can get here from San Miguel by jeepney (P6) or tricycle (P70).
Activities
Several resorts in Guimaras rent out OK
mountain bikes (around P300 per day), but
for a better bike, and trail guides, contact
Panay Adventures Tours (p300).
A nearly 30-hectare plot of forested land
on the way from Hoskyn Port to Alubihod
Beach, Guimaras Adventure Park (%0916 821 9023;
paintball per day per person P150) offers paintball, target shooting, horse riding and rappelling, at
least until the trees mature. Ask for Vince
Corpus. Its a P60 tricycle ride from Jordan.
Macopo Falls (picnic shelters per day P50, day-trip
admission P10), 1.5km from San Miguel (look
for the hand-painted sign that says Farm
Tourism; P15 by tricycle from San Miguel),
offers hiking, swimming and great views all
in one spot, though water is scarce during
the dry season. At the bottom of a steep
precarious hill trail among young mahoganies is a refreshing pool beneath the falls;
the falls themselves snake through pristine,
rocky terrain high above.
valley rainforest and nearby reefs of Lawi

Bay. Steep steps lead down to a few basic
but large wood and nipa cottages and further down to a spring-fed swimming pool
(nonguests P30). Theres electricity in the
late afternoon, and meals can be prepared
with prior notice (around P50 a meal). Take
a jeepney from Jordan (P10) or San Miguel
(P5) if you dont mind the 500m walk to the
resort, or go by tricycle (P100 from Jordan).
Mountain bikes (P500 per day) and motorbikes (P500 per day) can be organised.
Our Lady of the Philippines Trappist Monastery
(%0917 240 0329, 0912 520 1538; r incl meals with fan/aircon P350/500; a) Rooms are available for rever-
ent guests, but youll have to book in advance.

Both men and women are welcome.
ALUBIHOD BEACH
Puerto del Mar (%336 5457/1710; r with fan/air-con

P700/900; a) Follow the path around a steep
hill near Alubihod Beach to this resort of
cliff-perched nipa huts on a private cove
with a miniature beach. Rooms have private
bathrooms and balconies and, above all,
privacy. Admission for nonguests is P20.
Raymen Beach Resort (% 0918 520 7271; r
with fan/air-con from P500/900) Alubihod Beach
is essentially the Raymen resort, for better or worse. This small compound of
concrete buildings with basic tiled rooms
gets crowded and noisy with picnickers on
weekends. Theres a restaurant with Filipino food (mains P50 to P100).
OFFSHORE ISLANDS
Valle Verde Mountain Spring Resort (%0918 730

3446; s/d 400/500; s) Halfway between San
Isla Naburot Resort (%321 1654; r from P1500) If you

find Guimaras too cosmopolitan head to this
tiny island off the west coast. The resort,
sheltered in a pretty little cove, is made from
natural materials including pebbles, shells,
tree trunks and the discarded parts of other
houses. The furnishings are antique, and
the stone and wooden cottages are rustically
comfortable; some rooms have private balconies. Theres another separate house on a
cliff and a restaurant on the beach. Reservations are required. Take a boat directly from
Iloilo City (P3000) or from Lawi on Guimaras (P400). The resort has an office in San
Miguel next to the Pasabalung Centre.
Costa Aguada Island Resort (%Manila 02-890
5333; www.costa.com.ph; r from P1750; s) This resort
Miguel and Lawi, on one of the islands

highest points, this resort peers over the
(Continued on page 317)
Festivals & Events

Ang Pagtaltal Sa Guimaras (late Mar/Apr) This festival
draws big crowds to Jordan every Good Friday to watch
the re-enactment of Jesus Christs crucifixion. Unlike
re-enactments in other parts of the country, the Guimaras
presentation usually sees an amateur Christ roped rather
than nailed to his cross.
Manggahan Sa Guimaras fiesta (Mango Festival;
May) The islands much admired mangoes are honoured
just after harvest time each year on the lawns in front of
the Provincial Capital Building in San Miguel.
Sleeping & Eating

INLAND
(Continued from page 308)
on Inampulugan, a large island off the southeast coast of Guimaras, is less rustic rooms
have intercoms but an equally good place
to feel a little like Robinson Crusoe, albeit
a Crusoe with the option of departing by
helicopter (one of the amenities is a helipad).
The spacious bamboo and nipa cottages are
attractive and the good open-air restaurant
serves fresh seafood. Activities other than
exploring the beautiful natural surroundings
include taking a dip in the freshwater swimming pool, horse riding and tennis. To get
there take a pumpboat from San Isidro or
Sabang on Guimaras or Bacolod on Negros.

There are pumpboats and ferries between
Iloilo City and Jordan (Hoskyn Port) from
around 5am to 6pm (P7.50, 15 minutes,
departures every 15 minutes). They leave
Iloilo at Ortiz boat station, at the southern
end of Ortiz St (take a Mandurriao jeepney,
P5.50). Small ferries service the same route
(P7.50, 30 minutes) every hour.
Pumpboats to Buenavista wharf (west of
Buenavista town) leave from Iloilos Parola
boat station, on Muelle Loney St (P8.50,
20 minutes).
A hired pumpboat from between Iloilo
City and Guimaras (P1500 per boat) can be
organised from any of the ports.
Pumpboats run daily between the westcoast Negros town of Pulupandan and the
northeastern Guimaras town of Suclaran
(P40, one hour). L-300 vans run from San
Miguel to Cabano from where its a short
tricycle ride to Suclaran.
Getting Around
Tricycles roam all over Guimaras, on very
good roads, and cost around P150 per hour
or P900 a day. This price easily includes
waiting time at the various places of interest. Tricycles from Jordan to the resorts at
Alubihod Beach are P200 while slower jeepneys are a more economical P20. Multicab
vans are also available (P300).
The average short-trip jeepney price between the main towns is P10 (eg from Jordan
to San Miguel). Pumpboats are also available
for hire at port towns and many beaches. The
average price per boat is about P300 for the
first hour then P100 per succeeding hour.
PA N AY B u l a b o g Pu t i - A n N a t i o n a l Pa r k 317
THE AUTHORS CHOICE

Baras Beach Resort (%0917 241 1422, 0917
940 1501; www.baras.willig-web.com; cottages from

P700) Watching the sun set over the rocky islets that dot the bay from your private bamboo balcony, you begin to think you must
be a millionaire to be able to afford such
a privileged existence. Its an understatement to say that the 10 spacious wooden
cottages with nipa roofs and cold-water
bathrooms are good value at this warm,
family-run operation. The kitchen cooks up
inspired meals with Indonesian and Malaysian flavour (buffet dinner P250).
A small, sandy beach, a bar, pool tables
and table tennis round out the fun. You can
rent snorkelling gear (per day P200), one of
the large fleet of boats (per hour with crew
P250 to P450) and good fishing gear (per
day P150). Use of the dinghies is free.
Arrange to be picked up by the resorts
18m pumpboat from Iloilo (per boat P1500,
one hour) or make your own way to Alubihod Beach and then hire a pumpboat to the
resort (per boat P300, 10 minutes) or, with
considerable more difficulty, hike from Lawi
along a very rough track to Sitio Buringut,
from where (if youre lucky) you can hire
a local to paddle you the remaining way
to the resort.
BULABOG PUTI-AN NATIONAL PARK

About 33km north of Iloilo, this 854-hectare
park is home to monkeys, wild chickens, native orchids, 18 species of bat and the endangered bleeding-heart pigeon. When you
arrive at the base, youll be asked to log in
and give a donation, and on the weekends
youll have to show a permit. These are free
for anyone who makes the trek by private
vehicle to the faraway DENR office in Barotac Viejo. A better alternative is to visit the
park from Monday to Friday, or contact
Panay Adventures Tours (p300) to organise
a permit.
There are about 35 caves within the park,
eight of which are within 3km of the park
base. One was used by the Filipino Revolutionary as a hideout from the Spaniards
just ask someone at the base to guide you.
Some of the best rock climbing routes in the
Philippines have been set up in the park by
local enthusiasts. More advanced climbers
T H E V I S AYA S
T H E V I S AYA S
308 PA N AY G u i m a r a s
can enjoy 50m routes and can even help

peg new ones if they wish. Beginners are
also encouraged to come along for a lesson.
Contact Tribu Outdoor Shop & Climbing
Gym (p300) for more details.
Visitors can stay in the empty cottage
(P250) at the base or pitch a tent among the
mahoganies. Theres nearby swimming (P7)
and plenty of drinking water, but youll have
to bring your own food. The guys at the base
sell soft drinks and will cook for you.
Buses and jeepneys run between Iloilo
and the town of Dingle (ding-leh) until late
afternoon (P25, 45 minutes). From Dingle,
its a P10 tricycle ride to the park base and
an extra P5 to the rock-climbing area.
SOUTHWEST COAST
%033
Panays southwest coast is dotted with small

towns and low-key resorts. The brown-sand
beaches are generally unspectacular, but if
you like checking out old Spanish churches,
or are after a quiet getaway, there are plenty
of choices.
Tigbauan
Only 22km from Iloilo City, the small town
of Tigbauan (tig-bow-an) is an unassuming place centred on the baroque-fronted
Tigbauan Church, the site of the countrys first
Jesuit school for boys, established in 1592.
Guimbal & Around

Guimbal (gim-bal with a hard g) is 29km
from Iloilo. It has one of the prettiest town
plazas in the region, and on the western side
of this plaza is the mighty sandstone landmark known as the Guimbal Roman Catholic
Church. Down by the water, you will find several incredibly solid, creeper-covered 17thcentury bantayan (watchtowers) squeezed
in among the houses along the waterfront,
built by the Spanish for keeping out marauding Moro (Muslim) pirates.
From Guimbal, you can take a jeepney to
Igbaras (P10, 15 minutes) and ask someone
to set you on the 30-minute walk to Nadsadjan Waterfall, a 15m-high torrent with a deep
swimming hole at the base.
Shamrock Beach Resort (%508 8561; r with fan/
air-con P450/850; a), right on the water just
west of Guimbal proper, offers big, clean
hotel-style cottages with private cold-water
bathroom and breezy restaurant.
Racsos Woodland (%315 5003; racsos@iloilo.net;

r from P900; s) is a large property with a
miniature bird and fish zoo; more humane
accommodation with private hot-water
bathrooms is available for guests and theres
a huge pool and a poolside restaurant.
Miagao
The town of Miagao (mee-yag-ow) occupies
a hill 40km from Iloilo City. Taking pride
of place at the top of this hill is the imposing Miagao Church (officially known as Santo
Tomas de Villanueva), one of four Philippine
churches to have made Unescos World Heritage list. Built between 1787 and 1797, the
church served as a fortress against Muslim
raiders and over the years was damaged by
fighting, fire and earthquakes; it was finally
restored to its rococo glory in 1962. Its basrelief faade depicts St Christopher strolling
through a tropical forest with baby Jesus.
On the west side of town is the Visayan
campus of the University of the Philippines,
which explains the presence of a good
number of students.
There are plenty of destinations for day
trips from Miagao including Sinuhutan Cave,
Danao Lake, interesting rock formations and
cool fern forests, all of which surround the
town of La Consolacion, a jeepney ride from
Miagao (P20, 45 minutes). Bugsukan Falls and
Tabay Falls can be reached by BacolodDelije
Rd jeepney (P20, one hour) and then by foot
(one hour).
Accommodation in town isnt great you
may have to make do with Villa Marina Beach
Resort (r from P350; a), near the university.
Double rooms are small and basic, but have
air-con and private cold-water bathrooms.
Tiolas & Around

The pretty little town of Tiolas, 60km from
Iloilo, is where the coast road forks. The
main road to San Jos (Antique) heads
inland through some spectacular mountain
country and rice terracing, while a rough,
mostly unsealed road follows the rugged
coast to the remote town of Anini-y, on Panays southwestern tip. San Bernadino Mountain Resort & Restaurant (%0917 497 3806; r P400;
as) about 10km from Tiolas at the top
of a steep hill, just before the IloiloAntique
border offers well-kept rooms, a restaurant
(meals P70 to P120) and gardens, all with
views over the nearby valley.
The bumpy coastal road south of Tiolas to

Anini-y meanders along past pebbly, palmlined beaches, waters dotted with fisher folk
and views back to the mountainous coast.
There are several almost identical resorts,
all with basic huts with fan and cold-water
bathroom, positioned close to the water.
Shady picnic shelters are also available for
rent along these beaches.
The resorts dont have restaurants so
youll have to bring your own food or if you
give sufficient warning they can probably
organise meals. The first in line from Tiolas,
and a fine choice if you decide to look no
further, is Basang Basa Beach Resort (%0917 252
3754; cottages P500-1000), followed 2km south by
Tobog Beach Resort (cottages P600-1000).
Anini-y & Nogas Island

About 80km from Iloilo, Anini-y (ah-neenee) is a lonely little place with sulphur hot
springs in the town itself, and Nogas Island, a
marine sanctuary and one of Panays best
and most pristine coral reefs, just offshore.
For diving, contact Real Adventures or
Far East Scuba Institute Inc in Iloilo City
(see p300).
SAN JOS (ANTIQUE)

%036 / pop 48,300
On the west coast where the mountains meet

the sea, about 96km from Iloilo, this largish
port town is one of several places in the
Philippines called San Jos, so most people
refer to it as San Jos Antique (an-tee-kay).
Theres not much to draw travellers, but its
a convenient stop if youre circumnavigating the island. Opposite the towns central
plaza theres an Equitable PCI Bank with an
ATM, and an Internet caf (h8am-9pm Mon-Fri;
per hr P25) is next to the Jollibee.
Centillon Pension House (%540 9403; r P300), Adelaide Pension House (%540 7162; r P300) and Marina
Lodge (%0919 539 8606; r with fan/air-con P250/600; a)
all offer no-frills accommodation.
Easily the best non-Jollibee choice in
town, Reginas Restaurant (%540 9528; meals P40250; a) is a clean, modern restaurant serving seafood, sandwiches, steaks and Chinese,
Filipino and Indonesian dishes. Pancakes
(P45) and continental breakfasts are available. Down the street is DReyeses Batchoy &
Restaurant & Pizza House (sandwiches P22-50, pizzas
P55), a low-key, airy restaurant opposite the
city plaza.
PA N AY S a n J o s ( A n t i q u e ) 319

Asian Spirit flies on Monday, Wednesday
and Friday between San Jos and Manila
(one hour).
Ceres Bus Liner buses (and other companies) leave every 30 minutes for Iloilo
City (P70, 2 hours). Much more comfortable air-con vans ply same route (P100,
two hours).
The towns pier serves MBRS Shipping Lines
(%0919 286 4712), which sails to Manila three
times a week (P710, 17 hours), and to the
Cuyo Islands (Palawan) once a week (P190,
four hours). Buy your tickets at the Trade
Town Building in the public market.
TIBIAO & AROUND

Near the town of Tibiao, north of San Jos,
the mighty Tibiao River has plenty of white
water and some excellent kayaking spots.
Theres no commercial accommodation in
Tibiao, but the municipal tourist office in the
centre of town can organise homestays.
Bugtong Bato Falls (admission P10) is a 6km
walk from Tibiao. Head off from the main
road near the municipal tourist office. Altogether there are seven levels of waterfalls
sprawled across a steep, 14km stretch of
river. The first and second falls are the only
safe swimming areas falling rocks elsewhere make exploring too dangerous. The
second waterfall is reached via a rope.
If travelling from Caticlan, get a jeepney
to Crossing Nabas (P20, 30 minutes), and
another towards Tibiao (P45, three hours).
There are buses every 30 minutes leaving
San Jos for Libertad via Tibiao (P26, two
hours).
ROXAS (CAPIZ)
%036 / pop 126,350
The capital of Capiz province and the commercial capital of northern Panay, Roxas
(raw-hahs) claims to be the seafood capital
of the Philippines (a boast supported by
the fact that it ships out tons of processed
sea critters daily, rather than by whats consumed at its restaurants). Unfortunately
none of these titles translates into a pleasant
experience, and youll be assaulted by the
smells and sounds of hundreds of motorised
tricycles, making Roxas worthwhile only as
an alternative transport hub to Kalibo; it has
two nearby ports, an airport and convenient
road links with Iloilo City and Caticlan.
T H E V I S AYA S
T H E V I S AYA S
318 PA N AY S o u t h w e s t C o a s t
The home town of the Commonwealths

first president, Manuel Roxas, the citys central business district is based around the
Metropolitan Cathedral and belfry on Rizal
St, which is on the banks of the Panay River.
Almost all of the accommodation and the
mall are to the north or the river while the
bus and van terminals are to the south.
Information
There are several Internet cafs around town
including Sub 8 (h8am-midnight; per hr P20), which
has branches just down the street from Plaza
Central Inn and in Gaisano Mall.
There are banks with ATMs all over including a PNB (Magellan St) near the cathedral,
a Metrobank (Burgos St) and an Equitable PCI
(Roxas Ave).
On the northern bank of the Panay River
just over the bridge is the tourism office (%621
5316; h8am-5pm). Ask to speak with Rodolfo
Maestro Jr.
Sights & Activities

Near the cathedral is Ang Panublion (Roxas City
Museum; Arnaldo St; h8.30am-noon & 2.30-6pm Tue-Sat).
Originally built as a water-storage tank, this
1910 heritage building nowadays houses an
assortment of period furniture, local artefacts
and a shell collection.
Baybay Beach, around 3km north of downtown Roxas, towards Culasi Port, is a popular 7km-long, brown-sand beach lined with
eateries and picnic shelters. This is the best
place to pick up fresh and cheap seafood,
which can also be bought at the citys wet
market at Teodoro Arcenas Trade Centre.
The largest bell in Asia is found in a
church in the town of Pan-ay, a 20-minute
ride from Roxas. The beautiful Pan-ay Bell,
made entirely of coins during the Spanish
period, is more than 2m tall. To get there,
take a tricycle (P25), or a Pan-ay jeepney
from Banica St (P10, 20 minutes).
Festivals & Events

Roxas Sinadya Fiesta is a raucous, colourful,
four-day event held in early December. It
culminates in the celebration of the Immaculate Conception of the Virgin Mary.
Sleeping
Roxas Presidents Inn (%621 0208; presinn@i-rox.net
.ph; cnr Rizal & Lopez Jaena Sts; r from P950; a) A mix
of old-world charm and modern ameni-
ties, the President is the best place to stay

in Roxas. Each stylishly furnished room
has timber floors, quiet air-con and cable
TV, and the wrought iron railings are a
nice touch. Rates include breakfast at the
ground-floor restaurant, which specialises
in local dishes (eg sizzling squid; P140).
La Hacienda Hotel (%621 5129; Arnaldo Blvd; r
from P1597; as) Two-storey Mediterraneanstyle La Hacienda, next to Gaisano Mall,
looks abandoned from the road, but behind
the deserted lots is Roxas swankiest hotel. It
may feel lonely but rooms are spacious and
modern, with cable TV, air-con, hot-water
marble bathroom, fridge and coffee bar.
Plaza Central Inn (%621 3061; 2075 P Gomez St; r
from P500; a) A small step up in quality from
Halaran Plaza a few doors down, the Plaza
Central has bright and modern well-kept
rooms with polished-wood floors. Cable
TV is available for P50 extra.
Julietas Hotel (%621 2089; Arnaldo Blvd; s/d
P600/750; a) Just north of Gaisano Mall, and
La Hacienda Hotel, Julietas is a modest green
hotel with big, slightly drab but clean, tiled
rooms with hot water, cable TV and air-con.
Rooms here tend to be quieter than those in
the centre of town. Breakfast is included.
Halaran Plaza Hotel (%621 0649; P Gomez St; r with
fan/air-con P450/600) This long-standing place
is beginning to show some wear, though
its riverside location and large rooms with
timber floors go some way to make up for
this (and the noise). Downstairs is a breezy,
riverside caf with Chinese and Filipino
food (P30 to P100).
Eating
Eight Dragons (Burgos St; a) serves Chinese food
and Nestas Restaurant (Magallanes St) does Filipino and Western standards. Gaisano Mall
on Arnaldo Blvd has a Jollibee, Chow King,
Greenwich and a few other food outlets.
The best dining is in Baybay, where resorts comprising a string of nipa barbecue huts line the beach. They include
Baybayon (Marcs Beach Resort; %621 1103; Bayabay),
left (towards Culasi Wharf) off Arnaldo
Ave, which serves baskets of fresh oysters
(approximately 15 to 20 shells for P40)
and a variety of fish and squid (starting at
about P40). The Wayfarer (%621 1479; Baybay;
seafood around P100, steaks around P140), next to Baia
Norte Beach Club, is a more upmarket Baybay option, with a pool table and bar.
Shopping
Gaisano Mall (Arnaldo Blvd) The citys shopping
plaza, and the best place to head for fast
food, cinema, Internet access, groceries and
general shopping.

AIR
The RoxasManila route is serviced daily

by Cebu Pacific and PAL (one hour). Dirtcheap promo fares are sometimes available.
Offices are at the airport, a five-minute tricycle ride (P15) north of central Roxas.
Cebu Pacific (%621 0307; Legaspi St) also has
an office on the street that runs behind the
cathedral.
BOAT
There is a boat terminal on either side of

Roxas. To the west, the large Culasi Port
has boats going to Manila. To the east of
town, the little Banica wharf serves pumpboats to Masbate, though the schedule is
very iffy. Jeepneys from town will take you
to Culasi/Banica for P5/10.
Negros Navigation (%621 3822; Roxas Ave), SuperFerry (%621 5567; Rizal St) and Moreta Shipping
(%621 1283; Magallanes St) all have boats several
times a week to Manila (tourist class from
P1300, 17 hours) and offices at Culasi Port.
SuperFerry also has a boat once a week to
Dumaguit Port (Kalibo; P100, 1 hours).
PPA (%621 2008) cargo pumpboats travel
between Roxas and San Fernando (Sibuyan
Island; P180, five hours) three times a week.
Roxas Banica wharf services pumpboats
to Masbate, with trips to Milagros (P180,
six hours) and Balud (P100, four hours)
once a week.
BUS & JEEPNEY
Air-con buses for Iloilo City (P120, three

hours) leave from the Ceres Bus Liner terminal on the southern end of Roxas Ave,
opposite the Caltex service station. There
are no Ceres Bus Liner buses going direct to
Kalibo, but you can take one to Sigma, then
change for Kalibo (P50, two hours).
Much easier is to take an L-300 van direct
(P80, 1 hours) they leave hourly all day
from 6am until 5pm from the main Albar
terminal, just near the Ceres Bus Liner terminal. Caticlan is serviced regularly as well
(P180, four hours). There are other signposted L-300 terminals around town.
PA N AY K a l i b o 321
There is also a large jeepney terminal at

Gaisano Mall with vehicles that head for
Estancia (P60, one hour) and various other
destinations.
KALIBO
%036 / pop 62,440
For travellers Kalibo is primarily an alternative port of entry to Boracay and the site of
the raucous Ati-Atihan Festival (p322). The
city is thought to have been founded around
1250 by Malay settlers from Borneo.
Information
Internet cafs are easy to find around town;
theres one in Gaisano Mall, as well as i-Next
Internet (Roxas Ave). The Kalibo Tourism Office
(%262 1020; 2nd fl, Municipal Hall, Burgos St; h8am5pm Mon-Fri) is not accustomed to tourists.
Banks include BPI (Martyrs St), Equitable PCI
Bank (Roxas Ave), Metrobank (Roxas Ave) and PNB
(G Pastrada St).
Sights & Activities

Five minutes from town in New Buswang
(P25 by tricycle) is the Bakhawan Eco-tourism
Centre & Mangrove Park (%262 5140; www.man
grovesecopark.com; New Buswang), the base for a 70hectare mangrove reforestation area. The
area was originally mangrove, but due to bad
land use it deteriorated to mudflats which
have since been naturally reclaimed by the
land; its a thriving ecosystem, providing the
community with many valuable dietary and
economic resources.
Run by a community co-operative, the
park has a laboratory for researching crustacean and fish cultures; visitors can check out
the plantation and intertidal ecology from
a bamboo boardwalk (P2). There is also a
bird-viewing platform, and binoculars and
local tour-guides are available. Accommodation (dm P200, r from P500; a) is available at the
centre as are Filipino meals (P100); there are
also several restaurants nearby.
Kalibo is the centre for many types of
weaving such as: pinya cloth weaving, an
8th-century tradition that produces fine
cloth from silk and pineapple-leaf fibres;
abaca weaving from banana seeds, producing a stiff cloth; and nito weaving, a
sturdy vine that is woven into stiff baskets and mats. The pinya cloth is still used
for producing barong (traditional formal
wear), but all methods are employed for
T H E V I S AYA S
T H E V I S AYA S
320 PA N AY R o x a s ( C a p i z )
PA N AY K a l i b o 323
Kalibo
0
0
KALIBO
A
To Caticlan
(67km)
TRANSPORT
Air Philippines....................15 C2
rna
St
Dr
nza
ag
les
no
2
16
18
St
rios
Bar
t
oS
t
os S
Festivals & Events

In January the fantastic Ati-Atihan Festival is
held. The nations biggest and best mardi
gras, it possibly dates back to the days of
the Borneo settlers. Its a week-long street
party raging from sun-up to sundown and
peaking on the third Sunday of January.
Similar festivals are held in January in the
neighbouring towns of Batan (late January),
Ibajay (late January), Makato (15 January)
and Altavas (22 January).
Sleeping
During the huge Ati-Atihan Festival, you
should book a hotel at least a month in
20
17
Rey
es
St
i St
impo
St
bin
F Qu
14
21
St Gabriel
Hospital
am
tage Arts and Crafts has a tiny shop selling

ordinary pinya and abaca products a few
blocks away.
ved
p
11
GR
St, extension of Luis Barrios St; h9am-4.30pm Mon-Fri)

and Dela Cruz House of Pia (%262 3267; New
Buswang; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat). For sales, Heri-
nS
St
Ace
isho
To Heritage Arts &

Crafts Workshop (100m)
producing modern designs popular with

the European market.
To view the pinya weaving process, visit
Heritage Arts & Crafts (%268 5270; General Luna
lda
Ro
xa
sA
ve
ve
10
To Ceres Liner
Bus Station;
L-300 Vans to Caticlan;
La Esperanza Hotel
Capitol Area;
Post Office (4km)
To New Buswang
(500m);
Bakhawan Eco-tourism
Centre & Mangrove
Park (2km)
Ro
era
s St
gos
Luis
St
ada
rtyr
Bur
St
Vet
izal St
Jos R
Ma
15
8
Arc
hb
GP
12
astr
Pastrana
Park
an
Ma
St
lino
SM
C3
New Buswang Prov Rd
Ro
ld
PLDT Calling
Office
ns A
ase
Kalibo
Cathedral
19
B3
St
Market
CL
C3
B2
Go
JM
Oyo
Toro
ng S
t
EATING
Everyday's Friday Bistro...8
Jollibee............................9
Mezzanine Cafe &
Restaurant.................10
New Peking House
Restaurant.................11
Buses to Caticlan.............(see 16)

Jeepneys............................16 C2
MBRS Lines.......................17 D3
Moreta Shipping................18 C2
Negros Navigation.............19 B2
Negros Navigation.............20 D2
WG&A Superferry.............21 C3
SHOPPING
Aklan Shopper's Mart........12 B3
Kalibo Public Market..........13 D3
Royal Supermarket............14 D3
a
Ak
SLEEPING
B&H Traveller's Inn..........5 B3
Beachcomber Inn Kalibo..6 D2
Garcia Legaspi Mansion...7 C2
ve
Ri
St
INFORMATION
BPI...................................1 B3
Equitable PCI Bank..........2 C2
i-Next Internet.............(see 15)
Kalibo Tourism Office......3 C3
Metrobank....................(see 2)
PNB.................................4 C2
arte
300 m
0.2 miles
To Dela Cruz
Municipal
House of Pia
Hall
(500m)
To Gaisano Mall (500m);
MMs Pizza (500m);
Palmeros (1km); Latte Caf
& Internet Station (1km);
Nabas Junction (2km);
Airport (6km);
Sampaguita Gardens (10km);
New Washington (10km)
To Nakon Thai
Restaurant (1km)
13
advance and expect to pay from two to five

times the regular listed price.
Beachcomber Inn Kalibo (%262 4846; bcombinn@
cruznet.ph; 467 N Roldan St; r from P1050) Within
walking distance of shops and the mall, the
Beachcomber is a friendly and professional
place that will help with ticketing. Rooms
are small, marble floored, and furnished
with wicker and bamboo. Breakfast can be
provided in the pleasant ground-floor dining area.
La Esperanza Hotel (%262 3989; laesperanzahotel@
yahoo.com; Osmea Ave; r from P700; a) Next to the
Ceres Bus Liner and minivan terminals,
and on the way to the airport, this is a good
choice for those desiring a little quiet and
professional service. More expensive rooms
have hot water and bath tub.
B&H Travellers Inn (%268 3806; Arguelles Bldg,
Rizal St; r P950; a) and Garcia Legaspi Mansion
(%262 5588; 159 Roxas Ave; r with fan P400, r with air-con
from P700) both have clean modern accom-
modation near the city centre.

There is peaceful accommodation at the
Bakhawan Eco-tourism Centre & Mangrove
Park (p321).
Eating & Entertainment

L@tte Coffee & Internet Station (dishes P70; ai)
As hip and modern as they come in Kalibo,
this multipurpose place, a kilometre or so
from the centre on the way to the airport,
has comfortable couches, outdoor patio,
fancy coffee and ice-cream drinks like the
jungle java shake (P85). Food includes pasta
(P70), sandwiches (P50) and honey-smoked
ribs (P140). Internet is available at a bank of
computers against one wall (per hour P30).
Nakon Thai Restaurant (%0921 375 8198; dishes
P80) Find this place serving up good Thai cuisine on the road past the capital building.
Mezzanine Cafe & Restaurant (%262 3077; Luis
Barrios St; dishes P80) Has up-tempo dcor and
a permanently set-up stage for the Friday
night live music. The dishes are good and
cheap and include noodles, burgers, pizza
and Filipino and Chinese dishes.
Everydays Friday Bistro (cnr Arch Reyes & L Barrios Sts;
h5pm-midnight) A good place for a drink and a
game of pool; theres music and no videoke.
New Peking House Restaurant (Martyrs St; meals
around P80) An unassuming eatery serving
fine Chinese food.
MMs Pizza (pizza P35) is a little hole-in-thewall pizzeria across from Gaisano Mall, and
Palmeros (dishes P200) does good sizzling meat
and has outdoor seating. Jollibee fans will
rest easy since theres one near Pastrana
Park and another in the Gaisano Mall.
THE AUTHORS CHOICE

Sampaguita Gardens (% 264 3422; www
.sampaguitagardens.com; 500 Rizal St, New Washington; s/d from US$33/39, ste US$90; ais)
Trippy, fantastic, unbelievable. None of
these words can quite describe this little
fantasy world 10km from Kalibo in the port
village of New Washington (jeepney P12, 20
minutes). What is it that makes you feel as
if you slipped down the rabbit hole in Alice
in Wonderland? Could it be the huge gingerbread mansion selling Christmas decorations year round? The childrens amusement
park, the original Model-T Ford automobile,
the larger-than-life garish, gold-plated statues in the restaurant serving Chinese and
Thai cuisine? Is it the aquarium, the butterfly farm or the church building? Or is it the
Balinese-inspired mansion with a huge Presidential suite complete with a four-poster
bed and a chest inlaid with mother-of-pearl
from North Korea (good value, seriously, at
P15,000 a night)? This resort on a brown
and rocky beach is owned, or was once
owned by a semi-mysterious American from
Missouri. The modern rooms are extremely
comfortable, comparable to the nicest resort in Boracay. Oh, and theres a deluxe
spa, gym, juice bar and pool. Jeepneys to
New Washington leave frequently from Kalibo along Roxas Ave.
Shopping
Gaisano Mall has an Internet caf, cinemas,
shopping and a few fast food joints.

AIR
Kalibo airport is an alternative to Caticlan

for travel to Boracay. The planes are larger
but of course it involves a road connection
that Caticlan doesnt.
There are offices at Kalibo airport for
PAL (%262 3260), Cebu Pacific (%262 5406), and
Air Philippines (%262 4444). Air Philippines
also has an office on Roxas Ave. All have
daily flights to and from Manila (one hour).
Cebu Pacific flies to Cebu City and back
three mornings a week (40 minutes).
BOAT
Manila and Cebu are serviced by boats from

Kalibos nearby ports of New Washington
and Dumaguit. Jeepneys for the ports (P20,
30 minutes) leave from Maagma St, near

the Caltex service station on the corner of
Mabini St.
Negros Navigation (C Laserna S; Roxas Ave %262
4943), Moreta Shipping (%262 3003; Roxas Ave) and
WG&A SuperFerry (%268 4391; cnr Archbishop Reyes
& Acevedo Sts) have boats at least one day a
week to Manila (from P1500, 17 hours).
SuperFerry also goes to Roxas (P250, 1
hours) three days a week.
MBRS Lines (%268 6850; Roxas Ave) has a boat
to Cajidiocan (Sibuyan Island; P280, three
hours) and on to Romblon town (Romblon
Island; P310, five hours).
BUS, JEEPNEY & VANS
Ceres Bus Liner (%268-4026; Osmea Ave terminal)

buses leave all day for Iloilo City (P68, five
to six hours). There are also buses five times
daily from Iloilo City to Caticlan that pass
through Kalibo (P50, 1 hours from Kalibo).
T H E V I S AYA S
T H E V I S AYA S
322 PA N AY K a l i b o
L-300 minivans to Iloilo (P150, 3 hours)

and Caticlan (P75, two hours) run from
5am to 6pm, whenever the vans are full,
from this same area. Buses and vans also go
to Roxas for details see p321.
Air-con buses and minivans meet Manila
flights at Kalibo airport, taking passengers
to Caticlan (P150, or P175 including a boat
transfer to Boracay, two hours).
TANGALAN
Asian Spirit (% Manila 02-855 3333, in Cebu

032-341 2555), SEAIR (%Manila 02-884 1521, in Boracay 036 288 5502; www.flyseair.com), Corporate Air
(%Manila 02-852 5504) and InterIsland (%288
6876; info@interislandairlines.com) have daily small
aircraft servicing Manila (one hour) and
Cebu (one hour). For the larger Asian Spirit
flights, there are usually airportwharf
transfers included. There are special promotional fares offered throughout the year,
often on the early-morning flights.
%036
Near the town of Tangalan between Kalibo

and Caticlan is a 375-hectare marine sanctuary established in 2003 through the efforts
of a locally inspired ecotourism project. Colourful species of coral and fish, sea snakes,
turtles and dolphins are once again thriving
near Pungtod reef, which was not long ago
decimated by dynamite and cyanide fishing.
A 10-hectare area within the marine sanctuary is due to open for diving and snorkelling
in May 2006. For information contact the
local office of tourism (%265 2004; http://elgu.ncc
.gov.ph/ecommunity/tangalan-aklan).
All accommodation is on the tranquil,
white-sand beach in the nearby barangay of
Jawili. The resorts will prepare food upon request. Modern Wassenaar Beach Resort (%265
2069; r with fan/air-con P450/1200; s) is 3km west
of town proper and plans to open up a dive
facility. Green Meadows Beach Resort (%265
2013; r P500) has a few nicely designed rooms
with character. Also try the Wave Beach Resort
(%276 3291; r with fan/air-con P450/1200).
There are frequent jeepneys from Caticlan (P65, one hour) and Kalibo (P15, 30
minutes).
CATICLAN
%036
Caticlan is little more than a departure port

for Boracay. Buses arriving here carry passengers straight to the wharf and guides
lead the throngs through a smart pavilion
onto outrigger boats. For details, see p334.
Boats also leave from here to destinations
in the Romblon island group.

AIR
Theres a small airport servicing the everpopular flights from Manila and Cebu, 1km
from the port. Tricycles charge P30 for the
trip. With light baggage its an easy walk.
BOAT
For the CaticlanBoracay boat service, see

p334.
Manila
Negros Navigation departs Caticlan every

Thursday at 6pm for Manila (P1600, 12
hours).
The MBRS Lines MV Virgin Mary and
MV Mary the Queen ply the Lipata (Panay)
CaticlanOdiongan (Tablas Island)Manila
route. The former departs Caticlan on Tuesdays and Saturdays at 6am while the latter
departs Caticlan every Thursday at 6am
(P985, 30 hours).
Romblon
There are daily morning pumpboats to

and from Santa Fe (P130, 2 hours) and
Looc (P180, three hours), both on Tablas
Island, as well as to and from San Jos on
Carabao Island (P50, one hour). All three
depart from the Caticlan wharf just past the
restaurant with the large San Miguel beer
banner around 9am.
LSGA Ferry Corporation (%092 020 8264) has
a boat to Looc every Monday at 11.30am
(2 hours) and another to Odiongan every
Saturday at 10.30am (three hours). Both
return to Caticlan the same day.
Roxas (Mindoro)
There are daily departures (6am to 6pm)

from Caticlan to Roxas, Mindoro (nonaircon/air-con P210/250, four hours). The
route is serviced by shipping lines including
Maharlika, Montenegro and Starlite (%0919
693 7183; www.starlite.ph/ferry.htm). Montenegros
Maria Vanessa leaves Caticlan at 6am.
BUS & JEEPNEY
As soon as you exit the port at Caticlan,

a throng of bus, van and jeepney drivers
will converge upon you, yelling out destinations and signalling for you to follow. Ceres
buses depart Caticlan every hour on the
hour from 7am to 2pm for Iloilo (P247, five
hours). These buses stop in Kalibo (P100,
1 hours).
Air-conditioned L-300 vans ply the same
route (Iloilo P210, four hours; Kalibo P70,
1 hours).
BORACAY
%036
Like an ambitious and beautiful pageant

winner unwilling to relinquish her crown,
Boracay primps and preens year after year,
going through its own version of cosmetic
surgery in the off-season in order to maintain its crown as the trophy beach of the
Philippines. Despite oft-heard nostalgic laments (In the 80s, the only sound was from
the fruit juice shaker machines), Boracay,
little more than a speck off the northwestern tip of Panay, still satisfies the planeloads
of holidaymakers looking for sun, sand and
nonsobriety. Of course no place (including White Beach, where the action is and
all that most people see of the island) can
ever live up to the hyped up superlatives
bandied about by tourism-department officials. Hotels, restaurants and shops are
crowded along the beach like spice shops in
a Middle Eastern bazaar, and vendors selling watches, sunglasses, jewellery and boat
trips do pester you like flies on honey, and
the colourful paraws are sometimes lined
up on the beach as if it were a mall parking
lot. But all this aside, Boracay, which is only
about 9km long and only 1km wide at its
narrow midriff, is an intoxicating mix of
yes, sun, sand and nonsobriety.
The island really only started receiving
visitors in the 70s, and since then more
than 300 resorts and hotels have been
built, and the outdoor pedestrian DMall
expands every year, taking over more real
estate and birthing more shops, bars and
restaurants. None of this though seems
to affect the regular rhythm of the typical
day which includes tropical cocktails, fruit
shakes, tanning, the occasional afternoon
beach-volleyball game and, for the actively
inclined, just about every imaginable water
activity known to man.
B O R A C AY 325
WHEN TO GO?
Of course most people visit during the high
season, which is roughly from November
to June, and especially in January when
nearby Kalibos Ati-Atihan festival, the International Funboard Cup and the Paraw Cup
are held. While the days tend to be sunny
and dry, it does mean you will be sharing
your paradise with loads of others; hotels
will fill early and charge exorbitantly and
youre as likely to find peace and quiet as
you are to be left alone by vendors selling
sunglasses.
Longtime foreign and Filipino visitors say
they prefer the low season, roughly from
July to October, when White Beach endures
onshore winds and soaking afternoon rains.
A bamboo and cloth barrier is set along
almost the entire length of the beach to keep
sand from blowing into hotels and restaurants, and some seaweed is washed ashore.
However, there is usually enough sun to
keep most people happy, the sandy pedestrian walkway becomes navigable, hotels
lower their rates drastically and its possible
to find a quiet part of the beach away from
vendors and others just like you.
The national government is trying to

partner with the private sector in dealing
with contentious issues such as land titling
and waste; theres a growing amount of
waste arising from poorly regulated development that threatens not only the islands
ecological balance but its future as an economic cash cow for the tourism industry
and locals alike. A January 2004 fire which
razed the Talipapa Public Market and several hotels nearby was partly the result of
cramped conditions due to overdevelopment. Shangri-La Hotels is planning a
major new development on Punta Bunga,
scheduled to open in mid-2007, and there
are rumours that Hyatt, Hilton and Novotel are considering building on the island.
The majority of visitors to Boracay are
increasingly from Korea and other Asian
countries, and resorts and restaurants are
beginning to cater to their tastes.
You can escape the heavily touristed
White Beach to Bulabog Beach to the east,
which because its wilder and windier is
a favourite windsurfing spot, and to the
T H E V I S AYA S
T H E V I S AYA S
324 PA N AY Ta n g a l a n
B O R A C AY O r i e n t a t i o n 327
Boracay
0
0
BORACAY
A
2 km
1 mile
Punta-Ina
Beach
Punta-Ina
Bat, Crystal
& Buslugan
Caves
Puka
Beach
Ilig-Iligan
Beach
Yapak
Road
Santoyo
Beach
ain
Rd
Bat Cave
Banyugan
Beach
PuntaBunga
Beach
Mountain Bike Course
Sanbaloron
Beach
Punta-Bunga
Lapuz-Lapuz
Beach
Road 2
A
Balinghai
Beach
Lapuz-Lapuz
Mt Luho
View Deck
Pinaungan
Rd
Rd
Piniwid
Diniwid
SIBUYAN
SEA
uz-
La p
uz
c
ea
eB
hit 0)
W (p33
e
Se ap
M
Diniwid
Beach
Lap
BORACAY
Willys
Rock
Balabag
Bulabog
Bulabog
6
Beach
te
hi
Boracay
Rock
Manggayad
Dead
Forest
Tulubhan
Be
ac
Fish
Pond
Malabunot Crocodile
Island
Tambisaan
Bantud
Main
Rd
Sa
SLEEPING
Acanthus Resort......................................................4
Balinghai Beach Resort............................................5
Islands Garden Cottages.........................................6
Nami Boracay..........................................................7
C5
A2
C3
A3
EATING
Pizzeria Floremar.....................................................8 C5
Rd
nz
re
Lo
Money
ORIENTATION
Post
White Beach is the centre of Boracays

tourist area, and three boat stations are
stretched out across its sands. These can be
hard to spot, being only patches of beach
with waiting sheds set back. The beach is
dominated by a sandy pedestrian highway
the White Beach Path where motorised vehicles are banned and its almost compulsory
to go barefoot. A paved road, often clogged
with traffic, runs parallel to White Beach and
extends beyond it in both directions. There
are several smaller roads, some only dirt, that
can take you to other parts of the island.
The E-Z Map, published annually, is on
sale at the Boracay Tourist Centre (right)
for P150.
Theres a postal counter at the tourist centre

(below), which has a nominal service fee,
and a post office at the northern end of
Main Rd.
FedEx and Air 21, both located in DMall,
can ship packages abroad.
INFORMATION
Tourist Information
Internet access is everywhere, on both the

White Beach Path, Main Rd and within
resorts, with rates around P50 to P70 per
hour. Wi-fi Internet is accessible at a few
places including Fridays Resort and La
Capinnina Restaurant, though service is hit
or miss; theres talk of more to come.
Boracay Tourist Centre (Map p330; per hr P60;
Between boat stations two and three, this is a hive of

tourist-related activity. From behind a long row of desks,
staff offer postal and telephone services, general Boracay
information, money changing, ticketing and fast Internet
connection (P60).
DOT office (Map p330; %/fax 288 3689; DMall;
h8am-noon & 1-5pm Mon-Fri) The staff is listless but
can provide some basic transport info.
Filipino Travel Centre (Map p330; %288 3704/5;
www.filipinotravel.com.ph; h9am-6pm) In the Boracay
Tourist Centre.
Internet Access
h9am-10pm)
Shines Internet (Map p330; per hr P40; h9am-11pm)

Station 168 (Map p330; 2nd fl, DMall entrance; per hr
P70; h24hr)
Laundry
Lavandera Nation (Map p330; %288 6575; DMall;
h8am-10pm)
Pretty Lavendera (Map p330; h9am-6pm)
Cagban
Beach
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

Fairways & Bluewater Resort Golf & Country Club..1 B2
Green Yard Funboard & Neil Pryde Test Centre......2 C4
Mistral Funboard Centre..........................................3 B3
ManocManoc
Laurel
Island
Manoc-Manoc
Beach
Angol
long and quiet Puka Beach to the north. Mt

Luho View Deck (admission P20) offers views both
magnificent and decidedly trashy; its slopes
are the site of Boracays garbage dump (at
the time of research there were alternative
proposals for dealing with this growing
problem).
BPI at DMall, Allied Bank and Land Bank

have ATMs and change money and travellers cheques. Many resorts and the tourist
centre will also change both; the foreignexchange desk at the tourist centre (below)
is open 9am to 10pm daily.
Approximate Scale
Ilig-Iligan
Puka
Beach
T H E V I S AYA S
Caticlan
PANAY
Medical Services
For serious ailments, diving boats can provide fast transport to the mainland and
then patients are taken to Kalibo.
Bysshe Medical Clinic (Map p330; %260 3263;
DMall; h9-11am & 2-7pm)
Don Ciriaco Senares Tirol Senoir Memorial

Hospital (Map p330; %288 3041; off Main Rd) Behind
station two.
Telephone
Most of the resorts have phones but the
rates are high you are better off going
to the tourist centre (below) or one of the
many international phone booths dotted
along White Beachs sandy path, including
several in DMall.
Many resorts and restaurants will let you
make local calls for free.
Boracay Tourist Centre (Map p330; h9am-10pm)
Travel Agencies
BJS Information (Map p330; %288 5646;
bjstourservice@boracay.i-next.net; DMall) Can book and
confirm domestic and international flights.
Philquest Asia (Map p330; %288 5355;
pqaboracay@philquestasia.com; Tirol Business Centre, Main
Rd) Books ferries, domestic and international flights. Just
off Main Rd in Tirol Shopping Centre.
ACTIVITIES
Boating & Other Water Sports

If it floats then you can find it here. Just
about every imaginable water sport can be
organised from your hotel, from one of the
water-sport centres along the beach path
T H E V I S AYA S
326 B O R A C AY
or from one of the roaming vendors selling trips and activities. Besides the standard
boat (P300 to P2500 per hour), kayak (P500
per day) and jet-ski rental (P1500 per half
hour), you can try the more unusual kite
surfing in which you strap your feet to a
small surfboard and lasso your torso to a
4.5m kite or skim boarding (P200 per hour)
in which you jump and glide in the shallow
surf on a piece of fibreglass.
Allan Fun Tours (Map p330; %0921 339 8097;
allanfuntours@yahoo.com; in front of Villa de Oro) Daily
five-hour boat trips around the island that include snorkelling gear, food and drinks (P500 per person).
Hangin Kiteboarding (Map p330; %288 3663) On
the walkway between the beach path and Main Rd that
turns into Road 1A.
Isla Kiteboarding (Map p330; %288 5352; Victory
Divers)
Ocean Republic Kite surfing (Map p330; %288 3876)
Red Pirates (Map p330; %288 3561; redpi_rates
boracay@hotmail.com; Bom Bom Bar) Does private, fullmoon or sunset paraw tours, and can be chartered to take
you to many spots around northern Panay (per hour P350,
full day P2500; food included).
Tommys Sea Sports (Map p330; %288 6453) Booth
next to Maana Mexican Cuisine. Rents speedboats (per
hr P3500), kneeboards (P1500 per half hour), wakeboards
(P16 00 per half hour) and any other aqua-cruising device.
Diving & Snorkelling

The entire island of Boracay is surrounded
by reef and there are 30-plus dive sites
within a 15- to 20-minute boat ride. Boracays pride and joy, Yapak, off the northern tip, is a sheer soft-coral-covered wall
running from 30m to 65m. Big-fish lovers
adore this spot, though depth, currents and
surface chop restrict it to advanced divers
only. There are also drift dives, cave dives,
and the protected (usually west) side of the
island offers calm, shallow reefs for beginners. One such reef is Crocodile Island; you
can swim out here on your own from the
small beach at Tambisaan.
There are more than 25 dive centres on
Boracay, so if you have the time, its best to
shop around before committing to any in
order to find the instructor, location and
package that best suits your requirements.
Prices are generally as follows: one dive
US$18 to US$25, equipment rental US$2 to
US$7, open-water diving certificate US$280
to US$320. The following is by no means a
comprehensive list.
Aqualife Divers Academy (Map p330; %288 3276;

www.aqualife-divers.com)
Aquarius Diving (Map p330; %288 3132; www
.phildive.com)
Boracay Scuba Diving School (Map p330; %288
3327; boracayscubadiving@yahoo.com)
Calypso Diving Resort (Map p330; %288 3206;
www.calypso-asia.com)
Dive Gurus (Map p330; %288 5486; www.divegurus.com)
Lapu-Lapu Diving Centre (Map p330; %288 3302;
www.lapulapu.com)
Victory Divers (Map p330; %288 3209; www
.victorydivers.com)
White Beach Divers (Map p330; %288 3809; www
.whitebeachdivers.com) Also has windsurfing and kiteboarding.
Golf
Club rental is P1000 at Fairways & Bluewater
Resort Golf & Country Club (Map p326; %288 5587;
www.boracaygolf.com; weekday 18 holes P3360).
Horse Riding
Boracay Horse Riding Stables (Map p330; %288
3311; hors_estable@yahoo.com; h6am-6pm) caters
for all levels of experience (one to two hours
P550 to P990). The stables are off the main
road, north of the post office.
Massage
Freelance masseuses roam the length of the
beach.
Bora Spa (Map p330; %288 5579; h9am-10pm) A
one-hour massage costs US$20. Near Angol Point Resort.
Faustos Shiatsu (Map p330; %288 3305; h9am7pm) Near boat station three; one of the blind masseuses
on the island. One-hour massage P300.
Kaizen Salon Spa (Map p330; %288 6572; Paradise
Garden Beachfront Plaza; h9am-10pm) One-hour
massage P600.
Mandala Spa (Map p330; %288 5858; www.mandala
spa.com; h10am-10pm). Tucked away into lush inland
forest, this first-class operation offers indulgent packages
conducted in your own private, native-style villa. Treatments cost US$31 to US$137. For accommodation available
here, see p330.
Windsurfing
Since 1988 Boracay has hosted the Boracay
International Funboard Cup and has become
one of the windsurfing meccas of Asia. The
best conditions for most of the year are on
the eastern side of the island, off Bulabog
Beach, where onshore winds and a shallow
bottom make the area ideal for beginners as
well as advanced board riders. For inquiries about the Funboard Cup, or windsurfing in general, stop by Green Yard Funboard &
Neil Pryde Test Centre (Map p326; %288 3449/3207;
Bulabog Beach) or Mistral Funboard Centre (Map
p326; %/fax 288 3876; windsurffun@hotmail.com; Bulabog Beach). Equipment rental rates start at
US$12/40 per hour/day, with instruction

and packages also available.
SLEEPING
Boracay accommodation rates are ruled by
the high (or regular) season (1 December
to 31 May) and the low (or lean) season (1
June to 30 November). During the low season, prices are halved. Many resorts pump
their rates up another 20% at peak season
during the periods of 23 December to 3
January, Chinese New Year and Easter.
The rates quoted here apply to the standard high season and generally arent good
value compared to accommodation elsewhere in the country, but youre paying for
location after all. Several hotels listed under
budget are for fan-cooled rooms and have
midrange prices for air-con rooms.
Most of the cheaper, simpler places are
south of the Boracay Tourist Centre. Having
said that, many of the good food and bars
are north. And if its all too much on White
Beach, seek out the solitude of lovely Diniwid
Beachs low-key resorts just to the north.
White Beach
BUDGET
Daves Straw Hat Inn (Map p330; %288 5465; www.dav

esstrawhatinn.com; r with fan/air-con P1000/1500) Down a
lane next to the PAL ticketing office and next
to Orchids Resort, Daves Straw Hat has concrete modern cottages with nipa roofs and
sliding glass doors around a neat little garden
property. A charming little fan room is up a
spiral staircase in the back. Internet access is
available and there are plans for wi-fi.
Melindas Garden (Map p330; %288 3021; www
.melindasgarden.com; nipa huts from P800, family cottage
P3500) Rightfully popular, Melindas is set in
a leafy garden down the same path as Orchids Resort, and is highly recommended.
Simple nipa huts have porches with hammocks and clean modern bathrooms. The
family room is unexpectedly posh and
unique with a separate sitting room and
stone-wall outdoor shower. Theres a small
bar-restaurant and book exchange.
B O R A C AY S l e e p i n g 329
Orchids Resort (Map p330; %288 3313, 0916 318

8095; orchidslynn@hotmail.com; r with fan/air-con US$14/36)
On the lane past Melindas Garden, Orchids
is another popular budget choice with wellmaintained rooms in a two-storey nipa
building, several stand-alone native cottages
and a small bar set around a quiet little garden. Cheap low-season rates.
B&B Beach Resort (Map p330; %288 3235; cottages with fan/air-con P800/1500) Just south of the
Main Rd (or alternatively up a long path
immediately after the tourist centre) on the
beach is this attractive resort. White concrete buildings with nipa roofs, thatchedbamboo interiors with modern bathrooms
and small porches are set on a long treeand-flower-lined walkway.
MIDRANGE
Watercolors Boracay Dive Resort (Map p330; %288

6745, 0915 552 2231; www.watercolors.ph; r US$60; a)
If you stay at this friendly resort youll feel
like youve never left the beach, even when
youre sleeping. Four absolutely charming
boutique-style rooms one on the 1st floor
and three on the second all have high ceilings and delightful touches like potted plants,
high-quality linens and great bathrooms
with glassed-in shower stalls. The two that
face the beach have little balconies. Theres a
full-service dive centre on the premises.
Blue Lilly Villa (Map p330; %0918 457 7171, 288
6404; bebersole@harbornet.com) Though the Blue
Lilly was under renovation at the time of
research, it appears that rooms here will
resemble next-door Watercolors in terms
of style and comfort.
Villa Camilla (Map p330; %288 3354; www.villa
camilla.com; r with fan/air-con from P1600/3000; s)
Not to be confused with the Casa Camilla

further south, this friendly resort welcomes
you like family. Rooms are set back from
the beach path and theres a little pool in
the back with a swim-up bar. The deluxe
rooms with kitchenettes and fancy TVs are
good deals and sleep up to four. It also has
an open rooftop perfect for star watching.
Surfside Boracay Resort (Map p330; %288 5006;
www.geocities.jp/surfsideresortspa; r from US$65; a)
Some of the rooms here have four-poster

beds with brightly coloured linens; the large
wood-floored suite with small dining area is
especially attractive. Surfside has a restaurant on the beach and spa and dive centre
attached.
T H E V I S AYA S
T H E V I S AYA S
328 B O R A C AY A c t i v i t i e s
B O R A C AY S l e e p i n g 331
White Beach
Frendz Resort (Map p330; % 288 3803; frendz

resort@hotmail.com; r from P1500; i) Frendz is an
Aussie-managed, backpacker-friendly resort down a long, narrow dirt road off the
beach. There are 15 well-kept native-style
cottages with marble-floored bathrooms,
cable TV and hot water upon request.
Theres a restaurant, bar, pool table and
Internet access.
Saigon Beach Resort (Map p330; %288 3203,
0920 620 2386; r with fan/air-con P2000/3500) Cosy
bamboo cottages with small porches all on
one side of a palm treelined path off the
beach road. Better maintained than nextdoor Paradise Lodge, and you can strike a
good deal during the low season.
Angol Point Beach Resort (Map p330; %288 3107,
in Manila 02-522 0012; cottages P2000) This resort has
large, leafy, slightly unkempt grounds, with
eight octagonal bamboo cottages. The staff
is not the most readily available but a big
plus is the large terraces with hammocks.
Casa Pilar Beach Resort (Map p330; %288 3073;
fax 288 3202; r with fan/air-con from P1500/2800; a)
Casa Pilar has several categories of rooms:

the cheapest are rustic and basic; the more
expensive deluxe rooms are spotless bamboo huts with nice balconies. Theres a
popular restaurant and Internet caf (open
9am to 10pm, P60 per hour).
Villa de Oro (Map p330; %288 5456; r with fan
P1200, r with air-con P1500-2500; a) The standard
rooms at Villa de Oro are nothing special
but at least theyre painted bright, cheerful colours. Its worth shelling out for the
higher-priced Indonesian-inspired cottages with porches and stone-and-bamboo
bathrooms set in nicely landscaped garden.
Theres a popular buffet-style restaurant out
front (nightly Mongolian barbecue P180).
Sunset Beach Resort (Map p330; %288 3648; r
P800) This place, 20m down the lane north
of Villa de Oro, has both native-style and
tiled rooms with a small terrace.
Also recommended:
Bamboo Beach Resort (Map p330; %288 3109; fax
Acanthus Resort (Map p326; %0910 223 4729, 288

6207; acanthusresort@yahoo.com; r US$170; a) Probably the most spectacular rooms on Boracay are at this resort on the far southern
200 m
0.1 miles
To Diniwid Beach
(500m)
To Mt Luho
View Deck;
Nami Boracay (2km);
Balinghai Beach
Resort (3km)
25
31
14
27
Willys
Rock
39
45
9
46
Church
62
24
29
72
69
73
71
55
YES FM
Radio
Station
Balabag
75
52
53
1
Bolabog Rd
To Bamboo Lounge (50m);
Island's Garden Cottages
(500m); Bulabog;
Mistral Funboard
Centre (700m)
60
66
50
30
Tablas
Strait
13
17
58
Road 1A
63
56 8
3
D'Mall
33 6
47
59
68
61
64
76
34
74
Manggayad
49
37
48
70
19
To Green Yard
Funboard & Neil
Pryde Test Centre
(700m)
40
43
12
4
15
57
23
54
26
65
44
20
42
10
Dead Forest
18
RCPI BayanTel
Calling Office
38
22
32
16
77
Asian
Spirit
67
11
78
21
INFORMATION
Allied Bank................................. 1 A3
Allied Bank..................................2 B5
BJS Information.......................... 3 A4
Boracay Scuba Diving School..(see 54)
Boracay Tourist Centre............... 4 A5
Bysshe Medical Centre................ 5 A4
Department of Tourism.............. 6 A4
Don Ciriaco Senares Tirol Sr Memorial
Hospital..................................7 B4
Filipino Travel Centre................(see 4)
Landbank..................................(see 1)
Lapu-Lapu Diving Centre........(see 68)
Lavandera Nation....................... 8 A4
Main Post Office........................ 9 A2
Philquest Asia............................10 B5
Pretty Lavandera...................... 11 A6
Shines Internet........................(see 60)
Station 168.............................(see 51)
Summer Place.........................(see 68)
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Allan Fun Tours......................(see 43)
Aqualife Divers Academy.......... 12 A5
Aquarius Diving........................ 13 A3
Bora Spa.................................(see 21)
Boracay Horse Riding Stables....14 A1
Calypso Diving Resort............... 15 A5
Dive Gurus..............................(see 78)
Faustos Shiatsu........................ 16 A5
Hangin Kiteboarding.................17 A3
Isla Kiteboarding.....................(see 19)
Kaizen Salon Spa.......................18 B5
Red Pirates..............................(see 63)
Tommy's Sea Sports...............(see 60)
Victory Divers........................... 19 A5
White Beach Divers................(see 20)
SLEEPING
3-5-7 Boracay.......................... 20 A6
Angol Point Beach Resort......... 21 A6
B&B Beach Resort.....................22 B5
Bamboo Beach Resort............... 23 A5
Blue Lilly Villa............................24 A2
Boracay Terraces.......................25 A1
Casa Pilar Beach Resort............. 26 A5
Chalet Y................................... 27 A2
Daves Straw Hat Inn................ 28 A6
Escondido Resort.......................29 B2
Frendz Resort............................30 B3
Fridays Boracay........................31 A1
Giulius Bamboo Beach House... 32 A5
Hey Jude.................................. 33 A4
Le Soleil de Boracay Hotel......... 34 A4
Mandala Spa.............................35 B6
Melindas Garden..................... 36 A6
Nigi Nigi Nu Noos Beach
Resort................................... 37 A4
Orchids Resort........................(see 36)
Saigon Beach Resort................. 38 A6
Sea Wind.................................. 39 A2
Sunset Beach Resort................. 40 A5
Surfside Boracay Resort............ 41 A6
Tonglen Beach Resort............... 42 A5
Villa de Oro.............................. 43 A5
Villla Camilla............................. 44 A6
Waling-Waling Beach Hotel
Boracay.................................45 A2
Watercolors Boracay Dive
Resort...................................46 A2
EATING
Aria Restaurant......................... 47 A4
Benitos Caf............................ 48 A4
Boracay Regency Restaurant..... 49 A4
Caf Breizh............................... 50 A3
Caf del Sol Boracay................. 51 A4
El Toro Espanol......................... 52 A3
English Bakery...........................53 B3
English Bakery.......................... 54 A5
Jonahs Fruit Shake & Snack
Bar........................................ 55 A2
Kaeseke.................................... 56 A4
La Capinnina Italian
Restaurant..............................57 A5
La Reserve Restaurant............... 58 A3
Liebevoll................................... 59 A4
Maana Mexican Cuisine......... 60 A3
Mango Ray.............................. 61 A4
Pomodoro Italian Cuisine.......... 62 A2
Real Coffee & Tea Caf............ 63 A4
Restaurant de Paris Resort........ 64 A4
Restaurante Banza.................... 65 A5
Sea Lovers Bar & Restaurant...(see 63)
Steakhouse Boracay.................. 66 A3
Sulu Thai Restaurant................. 67 A6
True Food Indian Cuisine.......... 68 A4
DRINKING
Bom Bom Bar..........................(see 63)
Caf Cocomangas.................... 69 A2
Charlhs Bar.............................. 70 A4
Club Paraw............................... 71 A2
Moondogs Shooter.................. 72 A2
Pier One................................... 73 A2
Wave Disco.............................. 74 A4
TRANSPORT
Boat Station 1........................... 75
Boat Station 2........................... 76
Boat Station 3........................... 77
PAL.......................................... 78
A3
A4
A5
A6
51
288 5047; r with fan/air-con P800/1800; a)

Giulius Bamboo Beach House (Map p330; %288
5840; r with fan/air-con P1500/2500)
TOP END
0
0
WHITE BEACH
Fish
Pond
36
28
Angol Rd
35
Tulubhan Rd
To Tulubhan
(600m)
41
To Pizzeria Floremar
Acanthus Resort (500m)
end of the beach. Its certainly the most

private and exclusive resort, with only six
rooms, perfect for honeymooners. Each
suite combines high-end modern amenities with traditional Balinese-inspired design and art. The bathrooms themselves
are the size of an average hotel room and
have Jacuzzis.
Mandala Spa (Map p330; %288 5858; www.man
dalaspa.com; villas US$180) Primarily known as a
spa, the Mandala has several gorgeous villas
made of teak and bamboo with cogon grass
roofs. Each has a beautiful bathtub and outdoor shower with stone walls. A vegetarian
restaurant serves dishes such as eggplant,
feta and fresh salads.
Fridays Boracay (Map p330; %288 6200; www
.fridaysboracay.com; r US$170; ais) Standing
proprietarily and elegantly on the finest
stretch of White Beach, Fridays is simultaneously quaint and luxurious, charming
and extremely well run. The cottages with
private verandas and hammocks look like
treehouses, but inside theyre anything but
rustic with DVD players, bathrobes, slip-
pers and plush pillows and linens. A large

nipa pavilion houses one of the islands top
restaurants (see p333). Full service dive
centre and wi-fi Internet.
Sea Wind (Map p330; %288 3091; www.seawind
boracay.com; r from US$100; as) Near Fridays
on the far north end of White Beach, the
rooms at the Sea Wind are some of the
nicest on the island, especially the beautifully designed suites, full of antiques, wood
carvings and paintings. Alfresco seafood
and barbecue grill.
Nigi Nigi Nu Noos Beach Resort (Map p330; %288
3101; www.niginigi.com; r with fan/air-con US$90/112; i)
The Balinese style bamboo and nipa cottages have huge rooms and balconies with
benches; theyre easily the most elegant
fan-cooled rooms on the island. Fan or aircon, each room has wide windows, tasteful
handicrafts and wooden sculptures and is
set in a lush garden. Centrally located, and
with a popular bar on the beach path and
an Internet caf.
Escondido Resort (Map p330; %288 4777, 0917 527
4777; escondido@hotmail.com; r US$70; a) As its name
T H E V I S AYA S
T H E V I S AYA S
330 B O R A C AY S l e e p i n g
indicates, this resort is hidden down a quiet

dirt road far off the beach. The rooms in
this low-slung peach-coloured building have
character though, with dark-wood floors and
seashell-filled lamps. Two suites have Jacuzzis
and theres a dining area on the balcony.
Le Soleil de Boracay Hotel (Map p330; %288
6209; www.lesoleil.com.ph; r US$120; ais) This
boutique-style hotel brings a little bit of the
Mediterranean to Southeast Asia. Its the little touches like the arched stone lintels over
the doors, the tiled hallways, the detailed
mahogany woodwork and the colourful pillows and linens that make this place a mix of
the warm and the elegant. Theres a quieter
new wing with a beautiful pool area and bar
in the back. Wi-fi Internet is available.
3-5-7 Boracay (Map p330; %0927 361 0826; www
.357boracay.com; r from US$125; a) Rooms at this
small boutique resort have wood floors and
modern tiled bathrooms. The nicest rooms
have four-poster bamboo canopy beds. Its
at a quiet spot on the beach, though not too
far a walk from the action.
Hey Jude (Map p330; %288 5401; www.heyjude
-boracay.com; r P2650; a) On a small path just
off DMall is this three-story attractive
white building. Each tastefully done room
has nice wood beds and a private porch as
well as little touches like flowers on the beds
that make it an especially attractive choice.
Chalet Y (Map p330; %0920 970 8855; www.chalety
.com; r US$98; a) Chalet Y occupies one half of
a building Chalet Tirol has the other but
its easy to spot; just look for the log-cabin
faade. Each of the three rooms has large
beds with high-quality linens, wood floors
and big bathrooms. On a quiet part of the
beach, with meals cooked upon request.
Waling-Waling Beach Hotel Boracay (Map p330;
% 896 9456; www.waling.com; r US$120-260; a )
Waling-Walings rooms are less than spectacular, generally more motel than luxury
resort though each does have a few wood
details. The highlights of the resort are the
beach cabanas with hammocks and cushions the perfect shady spots to spend a
few hours a day.
Tonglen Beach Resort (Map p330; %288 5190; r
P2950; as) The well-kept grounds of this
peaceful resort extend far back from the
entrance. The bright, two-storey concrete
buildings with nipa roof contain modern,
nicely furnished rooms, and the pool area
is particularly pleasant.
North of White Beach

If you take the narrow concrete path around
from the Boracay Terraces restaurant, you
get to Diniwid Beach (which is also accessible by tricycle from the main road back at
White Beach). Around the next rocky outcrop, you find Balinghai Beach, which is best
approached inland by tricycle, or by boat.
Nami Boracay (Map p326; % 818 6435; www
.namiboracay.com; Diniwid Beach; r from US$200; a)
Perched above the beach like a deluxe tree

house, Nami offers privacy and breathtaking
views. All of the luxury top-floor rooms have
their own outdoor Jacuzzis and the restaurant has an eclectic menu, serving everything
from Filipino to Italian to Asian fusion and
burgers and burritos. Full-service spa and
reduced rates for longer stays.
Balinghai Beach Resort (Map p326; %288 3646;
Balinghai Beach; r from US$65) For total privacy, head
to this resort of twisting wood and coral cottages built on a steep cliff above a tiny beach.
The beach is accessible only sometimes during the high season when a small bar is set
up and drinks and food are delivered the
40m down by a dumb waiter. Each oversize
cottage has great views (the best may be from
the bathrooms), and each has king-size beds
made from polished tree trunks.
Boracay Terraces (Map p330; %288 4000; www
.boracayterraces.com; r P5400; a) Boracay Terraces
has an enviable location, tucked against a
rocky point at the far northern end of the
beach with almost zero traffic. It resembles
a green pyramid, with three levels of rooms
stacked one on top of the other; some have
excellent views and huge bathrooms.
Bulabog
Across Boracays narrow middle from White
Beach is the far-less-peopled Bulabog Beach,
where youll meet plenty of serious windsurfers who call this place home for many
months a year. Ask at the Bayview Hills
Snack Bar for locals who have huts for private short- and long-term rent. Islands Garden Cottages (Map p326; %288 3161; r with fan/air-con
P500/1300; a) has a few nipa huts.
EATING
White Beach Path is one big food court
half the fun of dining is taking a walk
around sunset and checking out the sites,
smells, menus and other people along the
path. Many places tempt customers with
generous set meals or buffets (from P150 to

around P200 per person). Think twice and
scrutinise well before being seduced by the
displays many of the seafood lies out in
the heat for hours on end.
For breakfast and snacks, nearly every
eatery here does good fruit shakes, pancakes and set breakfasts. For bread, English
Bakery (with two outlets) is popular, offering excellent Filipino baked goods.
If you are on a tight budget, there are
a handful of eateries offering cheap meals
in the back of DMall and a bunch along
the Main Rd. For a real budget option, buy
a fish from the market and cook it up if
your resort has a communal kitchen, or ask
around for a local to help you out.
Unless otherwise mentioned, all restaurants are on White Beach, open between
7am and 8am and close between 10pm and
11pm daily. Those restaurants with bars
close between 1am and 3am.
Restaurants
La Capinnina Italian Restaurant Cafe & Wine
Bar (Map p330; %288 3259; dishes P150-350) Run
proudly by an Italian chef, La Capinnina
specialises in creative Italian cooking with
regularly updated specials and pastas, pizzas and desserts. The softly lit garden dining area is one of the nicest on White Beach.
You can access wi-fi Internet here while
sipping an espresso.
Restaurante Banza (Map p330; %288 5167; meals
P240-450) Considered one of the best restaurants on the island, its also one of the more
expensive. Portuguese owner/chef Antonio
serves the freshest seafood, with an emphasis on quality, flavour, oil and garlic.
Theres plenty to choose from, but the simple meals like garlic tiger prawns (P330) are
some of the best.
Pizzeria Floremar (Map p326; Little Corner of Italy;
%288 3601; pasta & pizza P150) You wouldnt
guess it from the humble outdoor seating,
but this place at the very southern end of
the beach does fantastic pizza, probably the
best in Boracay. Call to have food delivered
to nearby hotels.
Sulu Thai Restaurant (Map p330; dishes P140-250)
Sulu Thai is an unassuming eatery with a
thick menu, with helpful photos of all the
dishes, including seafood entrees (P240),
vegetarian dishes (P140), crispy spring rolls
and spicy soups.
B O R A C AY E a t i n g 333
La Reserve Restaurant (Map p330; %288 3020;

meals P1000; a) Foodies consider La Reserve,
next to the Red Coconut Resort, to be the
best restaurant on Boracay. It is certainly
the priciest. It serves continental cuisine
and seafood such as green lobster (P900)
and royal king crabs (P800), with a good selection of wine and champagne. Try eating
outside in the charming garden area.
Fridays Boracay (Map p330; %288 6200; brunch
buffet P462, Friday evening buffet P690, la carte P370-640,
kids meals P180) The place to go to gorge your-
self on food from around the world. Fridays has a different set menu every night of
the week, but perhaps the best night of all is
appropriately enough the Friday barbecue
which is a feast of sushi, sashimi and grilled
meats and fish. During dinner on Friday,
Monday and Wednesday nights, theres a
cultural show. You can always choose from
the la carte menu dishes such as ostrich
steak (P950), sea bass (P850), and prawn,
chicken and pumpkin risotto (P390). The
bar has a 3pm to 6pm happy hour and is a
beautiful place to watch the sunset.
Maana Mexican Cuisine (Map p330; dishes P250)
There are only three tables on the beach
path here but the sombreros and terracotta
plates tell you this is a Mexican restaurant.
Serves big tasty dishes such as burritos
(P280), tortillas (P250), and top-of-the-line
fruit shakes.
Pomodoro Italian Cuisine (Map p330; dishes from
P200) This restaurant is nothing more than
a few tables set out on a sandy platform in
front of the Blue Lilly Villa, but its a romantic spot for an early-evening sunset dinner.
Does pastas (P200) and pizzas (P250).
Steakhouse Boracay (Map p330; dishes P200)
Look for this stylish restaurant above the
Habagat Kiteboarding shop. The service is
especially good as are the imported steaks
and Californian, German and Australian
wines. Some menu items worth ordering
are the tasty schnitzel with pan-fried potatoes (P250), spare ribs (P250) and fish
carpaccio (P260).
Bamboo Lounge (Map p330; %288 3161; dishes
P150) This new restaurant, part of the same
compound as the boutique Freckles hotel,
serves an interesting mix of food, mostly
Asian, including dim sum (P80), spare ribs
(P170), and Peking duck (P270). It has a
stylish dining area on the 1st floor and a
bar open till 2am upstairs.
T H E V I S AYA S
T H E V I S AYA S
332 B O R A C AY E a t i n g
Aria Restaurant (Map p330; %288 5573; dishes from

P250) Aria has a prime people-watching location on the beach path at DMalls entrance.
It has a stylish and modern dining room and
cooks Italian and continental cuisine such as
roasted chicken with polenta (P320).
Summer Place (Map p330; all-you-can-eat Mongolian
barbecue P195) One of the better Mongolian barbecues available on Boracay, Summer Place
keeps all its ingredients fresh and quickly
replenished. Take your spoils to the tables on
the beach; the dining room gets hot.
True Food Indian Cuisine (Map p330; meals P125500) Its a good thing the cushions you crash
on are comfortable since you could fit in a
short nap by the time your food arrives. True
Foods Far Eastern ambience is especially
romantic at night and the menu features a
good choice of vegetarian dishes; the huge
set meals are delicious but pricey (P460).
Boracay Regency Restaurant (Map p330; dishes
from P140) This stylish hotel restaurant has
outdoor seating and a large menu where
you can choose from Korean or Japanese
specialities like bibimbap (boiled rice with
fresh vegetables; P250), mixed Korean BBQ
(P350), or sushi and tempura.
Kaeseke (Map p330; dishes from P200) Try the
prawn tempura (P300) and sashimi (P300)
at this casual Japanese restaurant in DMall
where seating is strictly floor-side.
Hey Jude (Map p330; pizza P125-180, other meals P160300; h9.30am-1.30am) A slice of the city right on
the beach. For a slick caf-bar with smooth
music, it has surprisingly good food.
Jonahs Fruit Shake & Snack Bar (Map p330;
shakes P50-75) Amid plenty of competition, it
proudly boasts the best shakes on the island, and also serves food like pizza (P220)
and vegetable tacos (P65).
Other recommendations:
Caf Breizh (Map p330; seafood P250) Charming little
place specialising in crepes (P150).
El Toro Espanol (Map p330; meals P400) Mediterraneanstyle dcor and Spanish specialities.
Liebevoll (Map p330; dishes P200) German owned pizza
and pasta place.
Mango Ray (Map p330; pastas 200) Outdoor garden with
a seashell floor and eclectic menu.
Seafood Lovers Bar & Restaurant (Map p330;
h24hr)
Cafes
Real Coffee & Tea Caf, next to the Bom Bom
Bar, is a good place for fresh coffee and
all-day breakfasts and omelettes. Caf del

Sol Boracay, a Starbucks-like spot directly at
the entrance to DMall, cant be beat for
people-watching, fancy coffee drinks and
cakes, and Benitos Caf, across the sand from
Charlhs Bar, serves cappuccino (P55) and
crepes with fruit (P80). All cafs are marked
on the White Beach map.
DRINKING & ENTERTAINMENT

White Beach is one long happy hour though
the official ones start around 4pm or 5pm
and finish at 7pm, 8pm or even 9pm. Most
bars dont usually close down until between
1am and 3am or when the last customer
stumbles home. All these places are on the
White Beach map.
Bom Bom Bar is a hip little laid-back rustic
bar, its attitude clear from that universal signifier of coolness Bob Marley posters. Jam
sessions with local drummers often start up
around 11pm. Caf Cocomangas, along with
Moondogs Shooter, is a sprawling, tropical
nightclub with plenty of drinking and entertainment. Wave Disco is an underground
club with live music and a P100 cover after
10pm. Club Paraw is a great place to drink, eat,
and most of all just veg out on the cushions
on the beach. It serves Jamaican food such
as goat curry and is next to Pier One, another
hard-partying beachside club. Charlhs Bar is
a little shack right on the sand with live
music until late nightly. Hey Jude (see p333)
is popular with regulars from Manilas elite
and foreigners looking for hip, urban familiarity; it plays house music.

Air
The swiftest way to Boracay from Manila

is by air to Caticlan (see p324) but you
wont be alone trying to book this flight
during the high season. Good alternatives
are the airports of Kalibo and Roxas, from
where its an easy two to four hours by road
to Caticlan. For flight details, see p323 (Kalibo) and p321 (Roxas).
Boat
A fleet of pumpboats shuttle people back
and forth between Caticlan and Boracay
every 15 minutes from 6am and 6pm
(P19.50, 15 minutes), and then as the need
arises between 7pm and 10pm (P30). A special trip costs around P300 to P400.
The boats arrive on White Beach, stopping at one or more of the three boat stations. During the southwestern monsoons
(June to November), the sea on the White
Beach side can get too rough for outriggers.
During this period they dock on the east
coast, at or near Bulabog, a P20 tricycle ride
from White Beach. Be prepared to get your
feet wet upon arrival in Boracay.
A new jetty is under construction in the
south of the island at Cagban Beach, near
Manoc-Manoc, in order to reduce the traffic on White Beach. When complete, Caticlan boats will dock here and ferries will
carry passengers around the island.
Negros Navigation (% 288 5891; www.negros
navigation.ph) has a desk at the Carmela de
Boracay Hotel, near Boat Station Two on
the beachfront road.
GETTING AROUND
Along the main street behind White Beach,
a short tricycle ride costs P5. Beyond the
main strip, trips rise in P5 increments.
Mountain bikes can be hired for around
P50\400 per hour\day and motorbikes for
P250 per hour. Pedal-powered tricycles ply
the sandy beachfront road as well.
ROMBLON
%042 / pop 264,400
On a map the Romblon group of islands

looks like its within throwing distance of
Boracay, but in terms of development and
tourism profile it couldnt be further away.
Those who do brave the perils of irregular boat connections will be rewarded with
the by-products of isolation: quiet and the
urge to never leave. Of course accessibility
decreases the further away you go from the
north coast of Panay. While you can find appealing beaches on Carabao and the southern
part of Tablas, idyllic Romblon Island with
charming (an adjective rarely used to describe Filipino provincial capitals) Romblon
town, and Sibuyan Island, with its rugged
interior and forests of unique creatures, are
worth the hassles involved in getting there.

AIR
A new airport near Tugdan on the east

coast of Tablas is serviced by InterIsland
R O M B L O N C a r a b a o I s l a n d 335
Airlines (%Manila 02-852 7793, in Boracay 036-288

6876; www.interislandairlines.com) which flies the
CaticlanTablasManila route three times
a week.
BOAT
MBRS Lines (%Manila 02-921 6716, in Romblon 243

5886/8) has two boats servicing the area.
Three times a week, either MV Virgin Mary
or MV Mary the Queen ply the following
route: Manila to Odiongan (Tablas Island;
P450, 10 hours), then on to Caticlan (Aklan,
Panay; P180, three hours), then to Lipata
(Antique, Panay; P150, three hours) and
returning the way it came.
Once a week, MV Mary the Queen also
sails from Manila to Romblon town (P450,
10 hours), then to Cajidiocan (Sibuyan Island; P160, two hours), then to Dumaguit
(Kalibo port; P280, three hours) and returns the way it came.
Shipshape Shipping (%Manila 02 723 7615) boat
MV Princess Colleen departs Batangas three
times a week for Odiongan (P250, eight
hours), continuing on to Romblon town
(P170, two hours) and returning along the
same route.
Shipshapes MV Princess Camille departs
Batangas three times a week for San Agustin
(Tablas Island; P310, 10 hours) then on to
Romblon town (P60, one hour) and Magdiwang (Sibuyan Island; P160, two hours),
and returns along the same route.
On all these boats, the fare is reduced
when you travel more than one leg.
Several big, wooden cargo boats service
Romblon Province. They are less reliable,
less comfortable and hard to get schedules
for try the respective piers.
Looc and Santa Fe on Tablas Island, and
San Jos on Carabao Island, all have connections with Caticlan on Panay; Looc and
Odiongan have connections with Roxas,
Mindoro; Odiongan has a connection with
Batangas; San Fernando (Sibuyan) has a
connection with Roxas, Panay; and Cajidiocan has a connection with Mandaon, Masbate. See individual Getting There & Away
sections for more information.
CARABAO ISLAND
%042 / pop 12,000
Carabao Island (known as Hambil by locals) is more a day trip or diving destination
for visitors from Boracay, less than 10km
T H E V I S AYA S
T H E V I S AYA S
334 B O R A C AY D r i n k i n g & E n t e r t a i n m e n t
R O M B L O N Ta b l a s I s l a n d 337
Romblon
0
0
ROMBLON
To Batangas
(Luzon)
30 km
20 miles
To Lucena
(Luzon)
To
Manila
DOS HERMANOS
ISLANDS
Banton
Maestro de
Campo Island
Concepcion
Banton
Island
Bantoncillo
Simara
Island
SIBUYAN
SEA
Corcuera
To Roxas
(Mindoro)
Cobrador Island
i
a
Calatrava
To Cebu City
(Cebu)
Alad Island
Carmen
Agbudia
San Agustin
Danao
San Andres
Lugbung
Romblon
Island
Lonos
Lamao
Agnay
Calabago
Mapula
Palje
Magdiwang
Sablayan
Romblon
Island
Agutay
o m
Tablas
Island
Sibuyan
Island
Marigondon
Cambijang
l
Espana
Odiongan
Concepcion
Taclobo
Ferrol
Alcantara
San
Fernando
Cajidiocan
To Mandaon
(Masbate)
Azagra
Looc
Tugdan
Mt GuitingGuiting
(2058m)
Cresta
de Gallo
Island
Santa Fe
Carabao
Island
SIBUYAN
SEA
Boracay Island
away, than a destination in its own right.

This is primarily because of a lack of accommodation, but its quiet streets, white
beaches and surrounding reefs offer the
chance for a vacation from your vacation
on Boracay. If the very vague plans to build
an airport near the barangay of Busay ever
come to fruition, the nature of the island
will undoubtedly change. Besides the land
that would have to be cleared away, and the
roar from round-the-clock take-offs and
landings, no doubt developers, small and
large, would begin to build here, hoping to
capitalise on tourists looking for a low-scale
alternative to Boracay.
Only 6km wide (from San Jos to Lanas)
and less than 10km long, the island of
There is a daily morning boat between San

Jos and Caticlan (P120, one hour) and
Santa Fe (Tablas Island; P60, one hour).
Private boats can be hired on Boracay to
take you to Carabao (P500 to P700).
Looc
Looc (lo-oc) is primarily the first stop on
a journey from Boracay to Romblon and
the Sibuyan Islands further north. Theres
a town plaza surrounded by what passes for
commercial buildings, and several blocks
worth of charming flower-and-tree-lined
residential streets. The main attraction however, and what makes Looc worth a stopover,
is the Looc Bay Marine Refuge & Sanctuary (%509
4120; Looc wharf ). Its a 48-hectare coral reef protected area, 10 minutes by pumpboat from
the town pier. A boat can be organised from
the little office at the wharf to take you to the
sanctuarys moored bamboo raft, from where
you can snorkel amid giant clams (P200 for
one to four people for three hours, including
snorkelling gear). Buenavista Marine Sanctuary,
a little further north, is only 2 hectares, but
is located around an islet where tourists can
wander about. You can also organise trips
to white, sandy Agojo Beach, 30 minutes away
by pumpboat.
Taking place in late April, the week-long
Fiesta Sa Dagat (Festival of the Sea) includes a
boat parade, boat races and a fishing competition. The Talabukon Festival (the town fiesta)
which celebrates the legend of the giant who
defended the area from pirates by strangling
them, giving the town its name Looc (literally, to strangle) is at the same time.
%042
Lanas
Caticlan
TABLAS ISLAND
San Jos
PANAY
meat arrive a bell is sounded, summoning

people onto the street.
The narrow streets of the island are so
quiet that on a long walk past rice fields,
over hills and through shady coconut
and nipa stands, you may only pass the
odd kalabaw (water buffalo). Motorbikes
are available for hire if you ask around
(P200/100 per hour with/without driver)
a coastal trip, stopping at beaches and visiting Ngiriton Cave to the north and Angas
Cave to the south, should take about two
hours. Inobahan Beach, almost a kilometre
long, is where accommodation is available.
Another more leisurely transport option is
to hire a horse (P200 for two hours, P100
for guide) again, ask around in San Jos.
Several dive centres on Boracay (p328)
run dive trips to the reefs around Carabao
(two dives and lunch on the island US$50),
and can organise mountain-bike hire and
transport to the island.
To Kalibo
(Panay)
To Roxas
(Panay)
Carabao is home to about 12,000 residents,

5000 of whom live in the main town of
San Jos, on the east coast. Although this
side is blessed with a long, soft-sand, white
beach, during the dry season (November to
May) it is often hammered by winds, making the lesser (but still good) beaches on
the west coast the better option to visit. In
any case, a trip from one side of the island
to the other will only take 15 minutes by
motorbike, so there is always a protected
beach nearby.
San Jos has little more than a municipal
hall, plaza, church, school, district hospital,
public long-distance calling office and basic
shops. The market has meagre supplies of
fruit and vegetables, and when fish and
Tablas, the largest of the Romblon islands,

is a three-hour boat ride from Mindoros
east coast. Its largest town is Odiongan. Few
tourists come here except as a stepping stone
to Romblon and Sibuyan Islands. However,
the local government is trying to make this
a more attractive tourist destination. It is
difficult to travel from Panay to Romblon
without spending a night on Tablas. The
best stopover option is Looc, then Odiongan, and San Agustin is also OK.
The best beaches are in Ferrol, in between
Odiongan and Looc, and also at Alcantara.
There are waterfalls at San Andres and near
San Agustin, and mangroves at Roda Beach
near Looc. There is also a marine sanctuary
near Looc.
Daily pumpboats connect Tablas Island
to Carabao Island and Caticlan (Panay); as
well as running between San Agustin and
Romblon town. Odiongan is connected to
Mindoro and Luzon. See individual entries
for boat information and details.
INFORMATION
The Looc tourist office (h8am-noon & 1.30-4.30pm)

is at the southern corner of the town plaza
but a better source of information is vicemayor Juliet Fiel (%0918 925 0903) who can be
found in the shop off the main plaza bearing
the sign Fiel Merchandising. The ground
floor of the Marduke Hotel building has a
BayanTel international telephone office. The
Brain Storm Internet caf (h8am-5pm) is on the
plaza.
SLEEPING
Marduke Hotel (%509 4078; Grimares St; s/d P400/500;

a) On the north side of the plaza behind the
Koop Cooperative Drug Store, the friendly
Marduke (no sign, just ask around) is the
best place to stay in town. It has five large
rooms with air-con and private bathroom,
and free brewed coffee and fresh fruit in the
mornings.
Roda Beach Resort & Gishelles Beach Resort
(%0919 419 8997; r with bathroom & fan/air-con P350/600)
T H E V I S AYA S
T H E V I S AYA S
336 R O M B L O N C a r a b a o I s l a n d
Sharing the same beachfront property 4km

southwest from Looc proper (tricycle P50)
are these twin resorts owned by siblings; one
of whom is Juliet Fiel mentioned earlier as
an excellent source of information. When
the tide is in the snorkelling is good and the
sunsets are always beautiful. There are several
big, plain motel-style rooms in a concrete
building with air-con and other basic native
rooms with fans. The attached Poka Grill &
Bar serves fresh seafood ask for the sea urchin and jellyfish and the requisite karaoke
on request.
EATING
Pacific Garden Restaurant (dishes P50; h6.30am9.30pm) Conveniently located facing the town
plaza is the bright and friendly Pacific Garden Restaurant, offering good Filipino and
Chinese noodle dishes (P50) and burgers
(P25). It also has a well-stocked bar and no
videoke. A few immaculate rooms (P300)
with nothing more than a bed and overhead
fan are available on the 2nd floor; theres a
shared bathroom.
Robertos Bar (%509 4031; meals P40-80; h9ammidnight) A friendly night-time oasis two blocks
from the town plaza, on the same street as
the Looc Foursquare Gospel Church. This
place is one long, deep and green garden,
furnished with rock-slab benches and tables,
with an open-air, native-style bar and restaurant. Good Filipino, Chinese and seafood
dishes are available until late, as are wine and
champagne.
Tirols Restaurant (Tirol St; meals P25-50; h6am9pm) Across the street from the Fiel Merchandising store, this is a simple eatery
serving light snacks and basic Filipino
dishes like rice and veggies (P30).
and a 6am, 8.30am, 9.30am and 11.30am

jeepney to San Agustin (P60, 2 hours); the
first three trips should get you to the pier
in time for the boat to Romblon town. A
private motorbike ride to Odiongan should
cost no more than P150 (25 minutes).
both the Tablas airport and Looc, has several modern concrete bungalows, some with
air-con, others with fan. Its set in a grassy
compound back from a wide white-sand
beach shaded by a line of tall palm trees.
Theres a bar, restaurant and souvenir shop.
Snorkelling and boating can be arranged.
You can get here from Looc by jeepney
(P8) or tricycle (P100, 35 minutes). To San
Agustin, its P50 by jeepney.
built Rencios has seven very nice air-con

rooms with cable TV in the main building. Several cheaper fan and air-con rooms
are in a little bamboo annex, though these
arent very nice; theres no shower and no
toilet seats. Theres a restaurant and bar,
and karaoke in a big pavilion.
Odiongan Plaza Lodge (%567 5760; r with fan
P400, s/d with air-con P600/1000) This hotel is on
the plaza, diagonal from the town hall and
next to Lyns and the Landbank. It has
small, well-kept air-con rooms with cable
TV and tiled floors and windows that get
good sunlight.
Haliwood Inn (%508 5292; Barangay Liwayway St; r
P850-1750; a) Its an attractive building and
well staffed, however the big and fairly drab
marble-floored rooms dont get much light
and have cold-water bathrooms.
Aloha Beach Resort (r P400; a) This is a twostorey home a few kilometres north of town
just off a rather unspectacular brown beach.
Just show up and hope someone is around.
The large, clean rooms overlook a yard full
of roosters, aka your wake-up call, and the
bathrooms may have some cobwebs. The
power supply is unreliable. An outdoor grill
restaurant/bar is just behind on the beach.
Odiongan
EATING
Almost halfway up the west coast of Tablas,

Odiongan is a port town but also a charming mix of brightly coloured houses and
neatly trimmed hedges. Odiongans fiesta
is held in early April. Near the village of
Tuburan, 7km from town, is an impressive,
multitiered busay (waterfall) known simply
as Busay. You can get there by tricycle or
motorcycle for around P200 return (including waiting time). Theres a 500m walk up
from the rough road to the falls.
Star Place Chinese Restaurant (%0920 368 2083;

dishes P110; h8am-9pm; a) A friendly Chinese
restaurant serving Cantonese dishes, noodles (P80) and seafood.
Lyns Snack Bar & Restaurant (snacks P25-50;
h6am-8pm) Next door to the Plaza Lodge, this
is a little air-conditioned diner serving simple
Filipino dishes like pansit (noodle soup; P25),
burgers and hot dogs.
Haliwood Inn restaurant (%508 5292; Barangay
Liwayway St; dishes P50-200) As fancy as it gets in
Odiongan, this restaurant has uniformed
wait staff serving well-priced Filipino and
Chinese dishes such as sizzling chicken
with rice (P80).
You can buy baked goods, snacks and
loads of fruit and nuts at the market in the
centre of town.
Alcantara
Alcantara, only 9km from Looc on the east
coast of Tablas, is a small town with an OK
beach. There is accommodation here and
the jeepney from Looc to San Agustin passes
through, making this an alternative overnight stop for tourists heading up to San
Agustin.
Aglicay Beach Resort (%0919 634 6708; www
.geocities.com/aglicaybeachresort; Aglicay, Alcantara; r
from P700; a), about a 20-minute drive from
Loocs Fish Port (P5 by tricycle from town),

on the sea side of the market, services boats
to Caticlan. Port Malbog, a 10-minute tricycle ride south (P15), has boats for Roxas
(Mindoro).
There are daily 9.30am pumpboats between Looc and Caticlan (P180, three
hours) and vice versa at the same time.
Larger pumpboats travel between Looc
and Roxas, on Mindoro (P200, 3 hours)
on Monday and Thursday.
There are regular jeepneys from Looc to
Odiongan (P35, one hour) until about 3pm,
INFORMATION
Theres a Landbank on the plaza next to

Lyns Snack Bar and a PNB bank (cnr M Formilleza
& JP Laurel Sts) a few blocks from the market,
both with ATMs, and an Internet caf (Manuel
Quezon St; per hr P50; h9am-9pm) next to the
Odongian Plaza Lodge.

SLEEPING
Rencios Resort (%567 5834; r with fan P400, r with

air-con P600-1000) The location in the barangay
of Liwang on a fish pond outside of town is
a bit odd, though its certainly quiet. Newly
Jeepneys run up until about 4pm from near

the market, as well as from the pier, to and
from towns north and south of Odiongan.
The main destinations are Looc (P35, one
hour) and San Agustin (P60, two hours); reg-
R O M B L O N R o m b l o n I s l a n d 339
ular departures for the latter are at 5.30am,

10am and 1pm so that you can catch onward
ferry connections to Romblon town.
Montenegros Shipping Lines has boats
from Odiongan to Batangas (P250, 10
hours) and back again, three times a week.
Pumpboats leave from Odiongan for Roxas
(P100, three hours) three times a week.
San Agustin
With a backdrop of high, rugged mountains and a deep, palm-fringed harbour, the
serene town of San Agustin is a picturesque
stop on the way to or from the island of
Romblon. The building next to the pier says
tourism office though little information is
forthcoming.
August Inn (%0919 592 2495; r P300), a brightpink building just off the plaza, has extremely clean, small, tiled rooms on the
2nd floor. Private bathrooms are only P50
more though the shared bathroom is well
maintained. Rooms in the grey building
of Kamilla Lodge (r with fan/air-con P250/500) are
not as bright or spotless as those in the
August Inn next door, however the floors
and bathroom are marble and the air-con
room has a TV.
There are several food stalls (meal with rice
P15-30; h7am-5pm) within the market and the
peachy-white commercial complex adjoining it. A canteen in the small port terminal
where ferry tickets are sold serves decent
Filipino dishes.
There are three daily jeepneys from San

Agustin to Looc and Odiongan (P60, two
hours, 6am, 9am and 2pm), timed to depart
a few minutes after the arrival of the ferry
from Romblon.
Pumpboats to Romblon town (P80, one
hour) leave from the pier in front of the
tourism office at 8am and 1pm.
For boats going further afield, see p335.
ROMBLON ISLAND
%042
Blessed with a charming town by standards

in the Philippines, an alternately rugged and
sandy coastline, and the fact that its not the
most convenient island to reach, Romblon
is an ideal destination for those with patience, time and a taste for beautiful remote places. Its famous domestically for its
T H E V I S AYA S
T H E V I S AYA S
338 R O M B L O N Ta b l a s I s l a n d
marble, which graces the floors of churches

and homes all over the country, and a ride
around Romblon takes you past dusty
marble quarries and workshops large and
small. The rough, exhilarating road skirts
the shore along the west coast, where there
are several simple, idyllic beach resorts. On
the eastern side of the island, the road heads
inland through coconut-covered mountain,
streams and rice-terraced valleys.
Both Tiambin Beach and a little closer to
town, Bon Bon Beach are good for swimming
and can be found by heading south on the
west coast road (tricycle P50 or jeepney P5).
San Pedro also has a lovely beach, and OK
reefs for snorkelling and diving.
Information
Around the small triangular town plaza
beside the dock in Romblon town, youll
find several international telephone offices,
a post office and a police post. Plans call for
a tourism office to open in the near future.
Right now the best place for information is
the Romblon International Business Centre (per hr
P90; h8.30am-9pm) opposite Jaks Restaurant,
where you can access the Internet and get
answers to transport questions.
Sights & Activities

Beautiful, historic Romblon town, surrounded
by lush, green hills, is a delight to approach
by sea, and offers an even greater pleasure
to those with time to wander its charming streets. The capital of the province of
the same name, this town boasts the 17thcentury Fort San Andres, Fort Santiago and
the fantastically solid San Josephs Cathedral
and belfry. There is also the Fuente de Belen
fountain in front of the municipal building,
and some bridges and a cemetery thought to
have been built around the time of the 17thcentury churches. There are good views
from the Sabang and Apunan lighthouses.
From Romblon town, pumpboats can
be hired for day trips to Tres Marias the
nearby islands of Lugbung, Alad and Cobrador (per boat P500 to P600). Cobrador
has OK snorkelling, and Lugbung has a
good beach for pitching a tent, cooking a
barbecue and spending a quiet romantic
night youll have to bring all food and a
tent. Of course, youll have to pay the boatman to pick you up the following day unless
you want him there with you.
For diving, Big Bantoy Scuba Diving Centre

(bigbantoy@yahoo.com; one dive US$15, equipment rental
US$5) runs out of the Marble Beach Resort
(opposite). The resort is lucky to have a

marine sanctuary in front of it and stretching for 5km along the coast, so some of
the best dives are on the house reefs. The
Cabanbanan Beach Resort (opposite) also
has a dive centre. North of Romblon Island,
there is a WWII Japanese wreck, and on
nearby Tablas Island, the Blue Hole dive
the inside of an old volcano is favoured
by advanced divers.
Sleeping & Eating
Jaks Restaurant & Bar (meals P65-125; h7.30am9pm) Behind the town plaza, this is a wellrun place offering a regularly updated
menu, cool tunes and friendly service. The
food ranges from Filipino regulars such as
pansit (P65), to Western dishes such as beef
goulash (P125), spaghetti (P100) and pizza
(P75). When you arrive or leave by boat,
this nearby place is a great stopover for real
coffee and a decent bite to eat.
Romblon Shopping Centre Eatery (Filipino dishes
P40; h5.30am-9pm) Behind Jaks, facing the
triangular town plaza, it has average Filipino fare, but its a good place to sit and
watch the world go by.
ROMBLON TOWN
Fiesta time in Romblon town runs for a

week, around the second week of January;
you may need to book accommodation well
in advance for around this time.
Romblon Plaza Hotel (%472 2269, 0919 397 7924;
rphreservation@yahoo.com; President Roxas St; r with fan/
air-con from P400/800) This high rise, adorned
with plastic flowers and plants, is situated

one block from the pier. The rooms are big,
clean and bright, and more expensive rooms
have cable TV and beautiful views. A massage clinic (one-hour aromatherapy P350)
operates out of the hotel and theres a bar
as well as a rooftop restaurant (open 7am
to midnight) serving a variety of food from
Filipino standards to pizza (P160), spaghetti
(P40) and burgers (P25). The views alone
make it the best spot for a sunset drink in
one of the private little bamboo huts.
Parc Bay Mansion (%507 2408; r P600-750; a)
Formerly the Bayview Mansion, where the
San Agustin boats dock, this is not exactly a
mansion, but it is excellent accommodation.
All rooms are very clean and have milliondollar harbour views, and the hallways are
decorated with artwork. There is a communal sitting area and kitchen on the ground
floor and staff will happily cook up meals
(breakfast P50, lunch or dinner P150).
Blue Ridge Hotel (%507 2274; Governor Fetal Vero
St; s/d with fan P400/500, s/d with air-con P600/700) A
few minutes walk from the town plaza, the
Blue Ridge is another good-value option.
Rooms here are simple but kept perfectly
cleaned, theres a comfortable kitchen and
dining room on the top floor to prepare
your own food, and the mini nipa hut on
the rooftop is great for hanging out and
gawking at the views.
WEST COAST
San Pedro Beach Resort (%0920 905 5780; mina

mingoa@yahoo.com; Ginablan; cottages P400) This
idyllic resort refuge is set on a little whitesand beach in Ginablan, about 10km south
of Romblon town. Several spotless bamboo cottages with balconies and marble
floors are perched over the beach, which
has good snorkelling when its high tide.
Theres an extremely attractive restaurant
beside the beach serving big meals (P150),
as well as a library of discarded books to
while away your days. Staff can arrange
tricycles, motorbikes, snorkelling gear or
diving. From town, a tricycle all the way to
the resort costs around P150; its possible
to pay less to be dropped off at the turnoff
from where its a picturesque walk of a few
kilometres.
Marble Beach Resort (Ginablan; cottages P250350) A few minutes walk from San Pedro
Beach Resort, perched on a rocky headland,
the Marble Beach Resort has several basic
bamboo cottages with fan and cold-water
bathroom. The Big Bantoy Scuba Diving
Centre is attached. The restaurant can cook
meals upon request.
Tiamban Aqua Club Beach Resort (%02 723 6710;
www.emc.com.ph\tiambanp; r P750) Of the resorts
listed, Tiamban is the closest to town off
the coastal road (hire a tricycle) and is set on
a nice, secluded section of beach. The thatch
bamboo cottages with cold-water bathroom
are big but upkeep is spotty. There is a shady
garden, good for dining. When fully operational its best to call ahead to insure
they are prepared to receive guests the
resort offers snorkelling, mountain biking
and day tours.
R O M B L O N R o m b l o n I s l a n d 341
ELSEWHERE ON ROMBLON
Cabanbanan Beach Resort (%0910 283 7612; www

.romblon-isl.com; dm P300, cottages P700) Call in advance for free boat transfers from Romblon
town to this paradise refuge to hire your
own costs P200 to P300. Located on a spit of
land only accessible by boat, there are several
pleasant cottages, a restaurant and PADI dive
centre run by dive master Josef Mazenauer.
The house reef is a fish sanctuary.
Buena Suerte Resort (%507 2069; cottages P700;
s) On the less travelled mountainous eastern side of the island, 10km from Romblon
town, take the signposted turn-off in the
small village of Tambac, and a 1km rough
road will take you inland to this secluded
retreat set around a large, marble-floored
swimming pool. The basic cottages have fan
and cold-water bathroom. A canteen beside
the pool serves simple meals.

Daily pumpboats leave Romblon town for
San Agustin on Tablas Island at 8am and
1pm (P80, one hour). Pumpboats leaving
from San Agustin for Romblon leave at the
same time.
There are daily pumpboats at 1pm from
Romblon town to Magdiwang on Sibuyan
Island (P180, two hours). Magdiwang
Romblon town boats leave at 8am.
A pumpboat leaves Romblon for Banton
Island (P100, four hours, twice a week), returning the following day.
If the stars align and this is impossible
to predict in advance there is a Saturdaymorning boat from Romblon town to Boracay (P600, five hours); it goes on Sunday
at 1pm in the other direction.
MBRS Shipping (h8am-4pm Sat-Wed) has an
office at the corner of the shopping centre
near the port. MV The Queen and MV The
Blessed Mother depart Romblon for Manila
once a week (P780).
There is an infrequent boat between
Romblon and Masbate (P500) depending on
weather and other unpredictable factors.
For more shipping information, see p335.
Getting Around
A circuit of the island by tricycle is pretty
much impossible on the steep, rocky road.
Youre much better off hiring a single
motorcycle (with/without driver P500/250500 per day).
T H E V I S AYA S
T H E V I S AYA S
340 R O M B L O N R o m b l o n I s l a n d
SIBUYAN ISLAND
Sibuyan Island is the Galapagos Islands of
the region. Having been cut off from all
other land masses during the last Ice Age,
in pristine isolation, with 60% of the densest forest cover found in the Philippines, the
island is home to five unique mammal species including the bizarre tube-nosed fruit
bat. No other island of its size in the world is
known to have that many, and it is believed
that more flora and fauna species will be
discovered with further exploration. The islands natural resources are being protected
and nurtured, largely thanks to the dedication of a former mayor of Magdiwang, who
pushed for protected area status around the
massive Mt Guiting-Guiting (2058m).
Technically there are entry points into
the Mt Guiting-Guiting Natural Park from
the three municipalities of Magdiwang, Cajidiocan and San Fernando, but, as guides
and permits are compulsory, visitors must
first proceed to the Magdiwang visitors centre
where information and the necessary arrangements can be made.
The islands electricity supply is erratic.
San Fernando
This town, near the banks of the mighty Cantingas River, is one of the three entry points
onto the island. Although its a quiet town,
caught almost off guard by visitors, the accommodation here is scenic and relaxed.
For a real getaway, private pumpboats
(P1000 per boat per day, 40 minutes) can
take you to Cresta de Gallo, a small white-coral
sand island off the southern tip of Sibuyan.
You can skip around the island in about
half an hour and see little but your own
footsteps. There is some OK snorkelling, but
you will have to bring your own gear.
On the coastal side of town, Sea Breeze Inn
(s/d with shared cold-water bathroom P150/300, r with private
bathroom P400) is a family-run affair; bamboo
huts with verandas face out to sea. There is a

common kitchen, or visitors can make use of
the attached caf which opens for visitors.
There are three small inexpensive eateries in the market area with irregular opening hours.
Kalayaan Shipping has a boat from San

Fernando (via Romblon) to Lucena (P350,
15 hours, twice a week).
Private MB Godspeed leaves San Fernando for Boracay (P300, 2 hours, once a
week), staying overnight before returning.
For details, visit Lauras Shop (opposite).
Whenever theres an early boat arrival,
jeepneys leave San Fernando for Magdiwang at 4.30am (P70 plus P5 to the pier,
two hours), wait for the morning boats and
then return with passengers. In addition,
three jeepneys run between San Fernando
and Magdiwang before early afternoon.
Tricycles can be hailed for a lift to Cajidiocan (P50 or P100 for special trip).
Magdiwang
The gateway to Mt Guiting-Guiting Natural
Park (opposite), Magdiwang is a friendly, nofrills port town. Its pier, 2km from the town,
is lined with picture-perfect little houses on
stilts, decorated with flowering pot plants.
About 12km from Magdiwang (4km past
the turn-off to Mt Guiting-Guiting Natural
Park Visitors Centre) is the beautiful Lambingan Falls and swimming hole. Tricycles can
take you from Magdiwang to the visitors
centre (P40, 20 minutes) and to the falls
(P50, 30 minutes).
SLEEPING & EATING
Vickys Place (MH del Pilar St; r per person P150)

Vickys is officially a homestay just off National Rd opposite the school. There are
homely, timber-floored rooms on the 2nd
floor with an immaculate shared bathroom.
Vicky cooks wonderful Filipino and Western meals (breakfast P50, lunch or dinner
P70 to P120) and is a wealth of helpful
travel information.
Rogers Place (Mt Guiting-Guiting Parkview Inn; Jos
Rizal St; r per person P150) This lodging house
above the RCPI (Radio Communications
of the Philippines, Inc) building has simple
rooms with wonderful mountain views, and
theres a communal sitting area with cable
TV. Roger can organise meals from the
nearby caf he conveniently owns (meals
P125). Theres a 24-hour generator, great
for electricity, less so for quiet.
A cargo pumpboat travels between Roxas

(on Panay) and Azagra port in San Fernando
(P120, five hours) three times a week.
There are three jeepneys daily between

Magdiwang and Cajidiocan (P30, one hour)
and an early-morning jeepney from San

Fernando to the pier at Magdiwang most
days (P75, two hours), in time for the first
boat arrival, which returns to San Fernando
after picking up passengers.
Pumpboats travel between Romblon
town and Magdiwang (P120, two hours)
once daily.
For shipping options taking you further
afield, see p335.
Mt Guiting-Guiting Natural Park

This 15,000-plus-hectare natural park is
one of the Philippines natural treasures. A
biologists wonderland, the island has been
cited as one of the centres of both plant and
animal diversity in Asia and the Pacific. Its
home to an estimated 700 plant species,
some of which are only found on the island,
and 130 bird species, and a long list of rare
and endangered mammals and reptiles.
About 8km east from Magdiwang is the
Mt Guiting-Guiting Natural Park Visitors Centre,
the main entry point for the park (P40 by
tricycle from Magdiwang). From here, you
can gather information, organise permits,
guides (P350 per day) and porters (if necessary for the groups food) to take you up
the trail to the 2058m-high mountain peak
that stands before you. Although there are
other trails throughout the park, this is the
only one that takes you to the summit. Its
a very challenging, 10-hour trek one way,
so you definitely need three days if you
plan to go the distance, plus a few days
to organise a guide and equipment. Very
ratty tents are available free of charge from
the visitors centre but youd be advised to
bring your own. If you plan to conquer the
summit, you must bring mountaineering
attire (including cold-weather gear and
good shoes).
Cajidiocan & Around

Cajidiocan (cah-ee-dyo-can) is Sibuyan Islands access point for boats to and from
Masbate. Its also an alternative base to Magdiwang for trips into Mt Guiting-Guiting
Natural Park. However, visitors should
check in at Magdiwang first (see above).
From the Residential Ranger Station just
outside town, you can do a one-day trek to
some excellent caves within the park. Cawa
Cawa Falls, an excellent swimming spot, are
8km from town, but a motorbike or tricycle
R O M B L O N B a n t o n I s l a n d 343
(P50 one way) can take you most of the

way, then you just walk for half an hour.
On the towns main street youll find Marble House (per person P150) it has no signposting but is known by all the locals with
rooms with fan and large windows onto
the street or towards the mountains. The
shared bathroom is large and, of course,
marble. On the next corner (E Quirino St),
Gladys Point Eatery & Snack House (meals P20-40;
h6am-10pm) serves Filipino food and hamburgers.
About 3km toward San Fernando (P20
by tricycle), Lauras Shop (meals P20-50; h7am9pm) is a little eatery and gathering place for
a community known by locals as the German Village; its made up of only German
and German-Filipino families. Accommodation (r from P400) is available in stone-walled,
nipa-roofed duplexes with ceiling fan and a
shared kitchen and marble bathroom.

There are two pumpboats between Cajidiocan and Mandaon (Masbate; P150, four
hours, twice a week).
For other boat options, see p335.
There are three jeepneys daily from Cajidiocan to Magdiwang (P35, one hour) and
back, finishing in the early afternoon. Tricycles to San Fernando cost P30, or P100
for a special trip.
BANTON ISLAND
Remote Banton Island is a small rock island
with some good white-sand beaches, a coneshaped mountain, plenty of coconut palms,
a crumbling 18th-century Spanish fort, and
some great diving. You can rent motorbikes
to tour the island on the Spanish-laid cobblestone coastal road, but as the island is
so small, getting around on foot is more
than adequate. The strong currents, which
restrict diving to the advanced, bring in
sharks, barracuda and other big pelagic
fish. Even better diving can be found in the
marine sanctuary off Bantoncillo Island to the
southwest. As there is no dive centre on
Banton Island, divers will have to take a
live-aboard from Boracay to enjoy the underwater delights.
Visitors can stay in basic accommodation (r
P100-300) at the fort in simple rooms with fan
and shared bathroom, and get basic food
from local eateries.
T H E V I S AYA S
T H E V I S AYA S
342 R O M B L O N S i b u y a n I s l a n d
MA S B AT E M a s b a t e T o w n 345
To
Manila
SORSOGON
it
Bulan
St r
a
o
s
San Jacinto
Baleno
San
Fernando
Costa
Rica
Batongan
Cave
Mandaon
ar
Lagundi
Mobo
MASBATE
an
Allen
Be
NORTHERN
SAMAR
Batuan
Masbate
Lumbang
To Cajidiocan;
Sibuyan Island
(Romblon)
Matnog
rn
Ticao
te
sb
Aroroy
Kalanay
Cave
Capul
Island
San Isidro
Dalupiri
Island
Matabao
Is
Bagacay
Uson
Milagros
Dimasalang
Nin Bay
MASBATE
SAMAR
SEA
Palanas
WESTERN
SAMAR
Asid Gulf
Malbug
Tagapula
Island
Cataingan
Balud
Southern Luzon
Pumpboats service the south Luzon towns

of Bulan and Donsol daily (P120, five hours,
7am and 1pm). The quickest and most comfortable option is the Montenegro air-con
fastcraft (P280, two hours, 5am, 8am, noon
and 2pm) to the Port of Pilar, Sorsogon on
Bicol. Lobrigo Lines has a slower boat on the
same route (P140, three to four hours). Boats
go to Bulan from San Jacinto on Ticao, and
to Donsol from Claveria on Burias Island.
Blue Magic Ferries has boats to Lucena
further up the peninsula on Tuesday,
Thursday and Sunday at 7pm (P600).
Camandag
Island
Almagro
Island
Cawayan
To Roxas
(Panay)
Placer
Naro
Island
Jintololo
Island
SAMAR
Destacado
Island
Santo Nio
Island
Pio V
Corpus
Maripipi
Island
Romblon
Large pumpboats sail from Cajidiocan on

Sibuyan Island to Mandaon (P100, 4 hours)
on Wednesday morning. There are also boat
services that leave Mandaon for Cajidiocan
on Thursday morning. Nostradamus-like
powers are needed to know whether the trip
will actually take place.
BALICUATRO
ISLANDS
di
no
SIBUYAN
SEA
Pumpboats sail from Mandaon pier to Roxas

Banica wharf (P150, five hours, 8am) on
Wednesday and Saturday it has been known
to load up fast and leave as early as 7am,
so if youre really committed to this trip you
should probably spend the previous evening
in Mandaon. Boats leave Roxas for Mandaon
at 9am or 10am Monday and Thursday.
A word of caution: these boats sometimes
depart from Calituchi pier near the town of
Milagros. There are jeepneys and vans to
Milagros, however its more convenient to
hire a tricycle for a special trip (P150, one
hour). Unfortunately, the departure location seems nearly impossible to determine
in advance from Masbate town.
Regular morning pumpboats sail from the

busy pumpboat area at Masbate towns pier
Panay
P
Claveria
BOAT
The Manila route is serviced by a once

weekly Tuesday night (19 hours) ferry.
From Masbate to Manila the same ship
leaves every Thursday at 4pm.
Donsol
Masbate is serviced by Asian Spirit. See

p346 for more information.
Manila
Sorsogon
LUZON
Burias
Island
AIR
Trans-Asia and Sulpicio lines together

make six trips a week leaving at around
6pm (P675) in either direction.
50 km
30 miles
ALBAY
Though geographically smack in the middle of the Philippine archipelago, this hilly
island province is as far as can be from the
consciousness of the economic, political
and cultural movers and shakers in the nations capital, Manila; currents of change
are as likely to reach Masbate (mas-bah-teh)
as a boat connection from the island is
likely to depart on schedule. A poor islandprovince even by Philippine standards,
Masbate has long been known for the ruthlessness of its local politics. As is the case
with plantations on other islands in the
Philippines, Masbates vast cattle ranches
are owned by a handful of wealthy families
while the majority of the population struggles to make the most of its marine and
agricultural resources. A ray of progress
in all this is the provincial governments
Fishery Development Program, which is
at aimed at improving Masbates fishing
industry through sustainable technology,
conservation, tougher fishing laws and
loans for local cooperatives.
Grassy green and sparsely inhabited,
the island is ideal for cattle grazing, but
its best known for its annual rodeo (see
opposite). The island was once heavily forested and provided timber for the building of Manila Galleons. Masbate has a few
stunning unspoiled, white-sand beaches
(see p346), however most of the provinces
best beaches have no formal accommodation and are difficult to get to a visit here
is best considered by those with time and
patience to spare.
Cebu
%056
0
0
MASBATE
u
MASBATE
to the nearby islands of Ticao and Burias

(part of Masbate province).
J i nt o l o
l o
CAPIZ
BILIRAN
Esperanza
Chan
ne l
LEYTE
ILOILO
To Roxas (Panay)
MASBATE TOWN
%056 / pop 71,441
The approach by water to the harbour town

of Masbate, the capital of the eponymously
named province, turns from hope that
the tropical greenery and relative isolation
will be preserved in the urban character
or at least help guard it against the common
pitfalls of development to the realisation
that Masbate town is much like the charmdeficient provincial towns elsewhere. It does
have a busy wharf area and is the venue for
the annual rowdy Rodeo Masbateo.
Body & Sole (%333 6336; Quezon St; body massage
P250), a spa on the corner of Tara St, is worth a
mention, since a soothing massage is always
a welcome relief after the rigors of travel.
CEBU
To Cebu City; Ormoc;

Maya (North Cebu)
Information
The police station (%166) is beside the pier.
Cervante Service Internet (h8.30am-10pm) is on
Quezon St. PNB and Landbank, both on
Quezon St, have ATMs.
Theres a tourist desk in city hall, but
help is limited. Youre more likely to get
good info at the Coastal Resource Management Interpretation Centre (%0926 484 7826; espe
ranzadanao@yahoo.com). Ask for Jaja.
Festivals & Events

Rodeo Masbateo (%333 2120), also known
as the Rodeo Filipino, is usually held in
April or May each year. This five-day event
attracts cowpokes from all over the Philippines, and features mens and womens
T H E V I S AYA S
Masbate
There is a pumpboat service between

Romblon and Banton Island (P180, 3
hours) on Monday and Friday at 2pm.
Youre likely to get a smooth crossing to the
island only between March and May.
T H E V I S AYA S
344 MA S B AT E G e t t i n g T h e re & A w a y
lassoing, barehanded cattle wrestling and

bull riding.
Sleeping & Eating

Most of Masbate towns accommodation is
on Quezon St, running in an arc above the
port area. Keep in mind that during the
week-long rodeo, accommodation books
up fast and prices quadruple.
MG Hotel & Restaurant (%333 5614; r P1050;
a) The classiest place in the province for
eating or sleeping, MG has the feel of a
friendly B&B, and the large tiled rooms
with small private balconies are modern
and lovingly cared for. A ground-floor restaurant with a fancy dining room serves
dishes including fettuccine alfredo (P150),
shrimp tempura (P150), Caesar salad
(P120) and steak (P350). Look for a threestorey building, a 10-minute tricycle ride
from town.
Masbate Lodge (%333 2184; r with fan/air-con
P150/350) Not a bad place to stay for a night
or two, Masbate Lodge offers the best-value
accommodation on Quezon St. 2nd-storey
rooms are large and clean, and the polished wooden floorboards are an attractive
change of pace from the usual concrete or
tile. However, street and air-con noise is an
issue and the only views are from the shared
bathroom.
St Anthony Hotel (%333 2180; s/d with fan P250/
P300, s/d with air-con P450/500) The lobby is clean
and bright, furnished with fish tanks and
a lounge, however the rooms are dark and
boxlike. The mattresses, even in the air-con
rooms, are uncomfortably thin.
Ranchers Hotel (%/fax 333 3931; r with fan P250,
s/d with air-con P500/700) Down near the port area
on Tara St, some of the very plain rooms at
Ranchers have harbour views while those
without are decidedly dim and unwelcoming. Noise from the next-door bar, separated from the hotel only by a glass window
and door, is certainly an issue at night.
Joes Pizza & Pasta (pizza P150; a) Also on
Tara St in the port area, Joes does delicious,
large pizzas.
Quezon St proudly boasts a new Jollibee
restaurant.
Ibaez St, which runs off Quezon St,
is a lively food street, especially at night.
Stalls and small cafs offer freshly cooked
chicken, spring rolls and other snacks from
P10 to P45.

AIR
Masbate towns airport is a P10 tricycle ride

from Quezon St.
Asian Spirit flies from Manila to Masbate town daily (one hour, 6am). The same
plane returns to Manila at 7.30am.
BOAT
The Masbate town pier is near the market,

below Quezon St. Theres a SuperFerry ticket
office (%333 2373, 333 2342), as well as offices
for Montenegro and Blue Magic Ferries at
the pier, opposite the Shell service station.
Pumpboats here offer regular connections
(usually around 9am or 10am) to Costa
Rica and Lagundi on Ticao Island (opposite), and Claveria on Burias Island (see
opposite). For information on other boat
services, see p344.
BUS & JEEPNEY
Small minivans travel between Masbate

town and Mandaon (P100, two hours), as do
regular buses and jeepneys, which run from
around 6am to around 2pm. In Masbate
town, the minivans drop passengers at the
Shell service station at the end of Quezon
St, though if you tell the driver the name of
your hotel they will usually take you there
after dropping off other passengers.
Most buses and jeepneys terminate next
to the market in the pier area.
The scenic Masbate townMandaon route
is sealed and smooth from Masbate town to
the small town of Milagros, but from there
to Mandaon its unsealed and bumpy.
the town of Mobo, at the end of an unpromising dirt road.
MANDAON
pop 31,570
A knobbly green hill provides an unusual

backdrop to the port town of Mandaon,
64km from Masbate town. Batongan Cave is
about half an hour by bus or jeepney, near
the main road between Mandaon and Masbate town. Look for the high, rocky hill that
looks out of place among its surroundings.
West of the gold-mining town of Aroroy,
about 40km by road from Mandaon, day
trips can be made to the Kalanay Cave, which
has yielded some interesting archaeological
relics. Theres also a decent beach nearby.
A particularly scenic connection, if the
transportation gods are smiling on you, is
the five-hour pumpboat trip between Mandaon and Roxas Banica wharf, on Panay
(p344). Boats in either direction go via several islands off Masbate, including the stunning, high-peaked island of Cagmasoso.
Sleeping & Eating

Mesas Lodging House & Eatery (r per person P100)
Beside the pier, Mesas has small, tidy rooms
upstairs with fan, ancient shared bathroom
and a cosy little common lounge area. The
ground-floor eatery does good local dishes.
Linas Store, at the nearby bus station
(via the market from the pier), is run by the
friendly Lorna Manuel, who has fresh food
available virtually 24 hours a day. She also
has a two-way radio and can keep you posted
on the boat, bus and jeepney situation.
BAGACAY
%056
Buses and jeepneys run back and forth

between Mandaon and Masbate (P50, two
hours) up until about 2pm or 3pm. In Mandaon, the buses and jeepneys collect passengers at a square about 300m from the
pier. Dont wait at the pier for these vehicles;
theyre often full by the time they pass by.
Jeepneys tackling the particularly bad road
to Aroroy (P50, three hours) leave from the
station. There are two jeepneys per day,
more on weekends, heading off between
7am and 9am.
About 14km from Masbate town, Bituon Beach

Resort (%333 2242; huts/cottages/r P350/500/1500;
as) is a popular weekend getaway for
locals and the only beachside accommodation on Masbate. Set in a stunning, secluded
cove, this place is an idyllic minivillage offering a wide range of accommodation, from a
row of small, tidy nipa hutstyle rooms with
shared balcony, to a few concrete duplex
cottages with private balconies, and more
lavish rooms next door with big balconies
and air-con. The restaurant serves good Filipino and international cuisine.
The resort is a P100 tricycle ride from
Masbate town (30 to 45 minutes), 7km past
TICAO ISLAND
On Ticaos rugged west coast, Costa Rica is

a lonely fishing village with a long, brown-
S A MA R 347
sand beach. Not exactly an island paradise, it

at least makes for a good boat trip sometimes dolphins and flying fish are spotted
along the way. Its easily explored as a daytrip destination from Masbate town, and the
first and only accommodation was opening
up at the time of research. Halea Island Resort
(%0917 844 7023; www.haleaisland.com) is nestled in
a beautiful cove on San Miguel Island just off
the northern tip of Ticao. There are plans to
offer diving, snorkelling and rock-climbing.
Daily pumpboats go from the Masbate town
pier to Costa Rica (P15, 45 minutes), Lagundi and several other villages and towns
on Ticao. A hired special ride pumpboat
will cost around P500 for the return trip.
BURIAS ISLAND
In the town of Claveria on Burias, is a cave

of truly cathedral-like dimensions. Thought
to have been a prehistoric burial ground,
the cave shows signs of relatively recent
habitation in the form of scrawlings on
the gravestones, as well as small shards of
Ming-dynasty porcelain. Known to locals
for years, the cave has a well-hidden, narrow entrance. Guides (P100) may be found
in sitio Macamote, Barangay Boca Enganyo,
just outside Claveria proper. Make it clear
that you only need one guide or youll find
half the village tagging along.
Further out than Ticao, remote Burias
is still a worthy day-trip destination if you
start out early; pumpboats go from Masbate
to Claveria (per day P1000, three hours).
SAMAR
Samar is a rough and rugged island stretching all the way in the north to the tip of
southern Luzon and all the way in the south
to within shouting distance of northern
Mindanao. Perhaps the most obvious sign
that Samar is trailing in the development
stakes is that not a single movie theatre or
Jollibee is to be found. Whether this is a positive or negative depends on your perspective. However there is no doubt that it is one
of the poorer provinces in the Philippines
and is not surprisingly a refuge for small
New Peoples Army (NPA) groups. These
groups continue to skirmish with government forces, though foreigners are not targeted and any action tends to occur in the
T H E V I S AYA S
T H E V I S AYA S
346 MA S B AT E B a g a c a y
S A MA R C a t a r m a n 349
Samar
0
0
SAMAR
LUZON
50 km
30 miles
See Enlargement
SORSOGON
BALICUATRO
ISLANDS
Matnog
Laverares
Capul
Island
Allen
San
Antonio
San Jos
San
Roque
Catarman
Bobon
Batag
Island
Laoang
Palapag
Rawis
Pambujan
Mapanas
Washington
San Isidro
Dalupiri
Island
Laoang
Island
Cervantes
Catubig
NORTHERN
SAMAR
PHILIPPINE
SEA
Gamay
Las
Navas
Viriato
Lapinig
Lope de Vega
BALCUARTRO
ISLANDS
Arteche
Calbayog
Gandara
SAMAR
Blanca
Aurora
Tarangnan
WESTERN
SAMAR
BILIRAN
LEYTE
Biri
Macarite
Island
Biri
Island
Talalora
Talisay
Island
Cagnipa Island
Maravilla
Island
Coconut
Island
Bani
Buad
Island
Daram
Island
Biliran
Island
CEBU
0
0
4 km
2 miles
BOAT
San Juan
Tingyao Island
San Juan San
Antonio
Island
Ormoc
Bani
Island
SAMAR
Hinabangan
San Juanico
Bridge
Gilbert
Island
Maydolong
Llorente
Hernani
Quinapondan
Marabut
Balangiga
Cabaongan
Island
Ugamu
Island
rugged and remote hinterlands. While the

island is almost entirely undeveloped, there
are grandiose plans to convert the southern
tip around Guiuan into a vacation destination, though the reality is likely to trail far
behind the inflated rhetoric.
Tacloban (p354) is the de facto commercial capital of southern Samar and where
most travellers enter, even though its on
neighbouring Leyte; the two are linked by
the scenic 2km-long San Juanico Strait.
The heavily forested interior, full of cave
systems and waterfalls, is beginning to be
explored by local adventure entrepreneurs,
and experienced surfers can head to the wild
and beautiful east coast. Its possible to fly
into Catarman in the north where there is
Canhugas
Beach
Marabut
Islands
Lawaan
LEYTE
Divinubo
Island
Umawas
Sohoton
Natural
Bridge
National
Park
Basey
Tacloban
San Julian
Borongan
Calbiga
Caves
Villareal
San
Juanico
Strait
The CalbayogCebu City route (P275, 10

hours) is serviced three evenings a week.
There are almost hourly boats from the
Balwharteco Terminal in Allen to Matnog
(P95, 1 hours) on Luzon, from around
4am to 4pm. There may also be a boat between Matnog and San Isidro. There are
a number of jeepneys, buses and tricycles
that can take you from Matnog to Bulan,
60km away, where you can catch a boat
connection to Masbate (see p344).
San Julian
Beach
Calbiga
Magasang Island
Abu-Abuhan BIRI-LA
Pangdan
ROSAS
Asian Spirit flies from Manila to Calbayog

(one hour) and Catarman (one hour) three
mornings a week, returning the same days.
Hilaban
Island
Taft
Samaragha
Island
To Cebu
AIR
Catbalogan
er
LIBUCAN
ISLANDS
CANAHAUAN
ISLANDS
Dolores
EASTERN
SAMAR
Riv
Santo
Nio Island
Maripipi
Island
Santa
Margarita
Tubabao
Island
Camandag
Island
Oras
San Jose
de Buan
Base
Sabang
Almagro
Island
MASBATE
Matuguinao
Tagapula
Island
MASBATE
Samar was the scene of some of the bloodiest battles. Tales of brutal combat wove their
way into US Marine Corps folklore, and for
years after the war American veterans of the
campaign were toasted in mess halls by their
fellow marines with, Stand, gentlemen, he
served on Samar. Perhaps because it was
sparsely settled before the US colonial period, Samar has a handful of towns and villages founded by or named after Americans:
Allen, Taft, Wright, MacArthur and the tiny
village of Washington.
Salcedo
To Homonhon
Island
Guiuan
Leyte Gulf
Sapao
Beach
Caliocan
Island
a mass of little-explored offshore islands or

to Calbayog on the more developed west
coast. Wherever you go, boat and road connections are even more irregular than elsewhere, and patience and time is necessary.
Waray is the language commonly spoken on Samar, and the traditional dance of
welcome the kuratsa is, astonishingly,
patterned after the courtship movements of
chickens. Very little English is spoken on this
island and even Filipino is less likely to be understood than in other parts of the Visayas.
History
Magellan first set foot in the Philippines here
in 1521, at the island of Homonhon in the
south. During the Philippine-American war,
BUS
There are regular departures to Tacloban on

Leyte from Catarman (eight hours), Guiuan
(eight hours) Calbayog (five hours), Borongan (five hours) and Catbalogan (three
hours).
Philtranco and BLBT have several daily
services to Manila from Catarman, Calbayog
and Catbalogan, and daily departures from
Borongan and Guiuan (P600/30). Samar has
some of the worst roads in the Visayas huge
potholes can make for very slow going.
CATARMAN
pop 67,670
Catarman is the point of air entry to northern Samar, and is a stopping-off point for
trips along the northeast coast or to the
offshore Biri-Las Rosas Islands. Other than
that theres not much to hold the travellers interest, although it is the only place
in northern Samar with a bank that accepts
ATM cards.
The limited accommodation reflects Catarmans nonexistent tourism profile. Theres

lodging associated with the University of the
Eastern Philippines (UEP; dm per person P50), about
3km out of town and within walking distance
from White Beach. The campus is green and
nicely laid out. A number of small eateries
nearby provide food.

Asian Spirit, which flies between Catarman
and Manila (P2500, one hour, four times
weekly), has an office on Magsaysay St.
The airport is 2km (P20 by tricycle) from
town. Buses and jeepneys meet the boats at
Allen and continue to Catarman. There are
long-distance buses to and from Leyte and
Luzon. See left for flight and road-transport
information.
AROUND CATARMAN
The Biri-Las Rosas Islands are a marine protected area and home to fishing communities.
There is good snorkelling and diving at Biri,
and occasionally good surf, but youll need
your own equipment. Boats from Lavezares,
30km from Allen, leave when full (P60, one
hour). There is no commercial accommodation. If youre interested in exploring this
area you may want to check with the DENR
in Catarman or with students at UEP.
The road from Laoang along the northeast coast is open as far as Lapinig. It is an
undeveloped area of surf beaches and rock
formations. Of note in Laoang is the US-built
lighthouse near the ferry landing a picturesque structure that has been withstanding
typhoons since 1907.
ALLEN
pop 20,066
This small port town is really only worth

a stop to break up a trip between northern
Samar and southern Luzon. If you cant
make the boat connections and need to stay
overnight here, by far the best option is
Wayang Wayang Resort (%0918 338 8756; Barangay
Jubasan; r from P700; a), a nicely landscaped
and surprisingly comfortable complex of
large nipa huts and a concrete cottage 4km
south of town directly on the water. Theres
a restaurant and individual bamboo huts
good for eating or watching the sunset. A
pool is in the works. You could try Laureens
Lodging (r P100-150), right at the wharf, with a
T H E V I S AYA S
T H E V I S AYA S
348 S A MA R H i s t o r y
restaurant attached. Its clean, if basic and

noisy, and is handy to the boats.
Manila-bound buses go via Allen. Allen
is 1 hours from Calbayog, 3 hours from
Catbalogan and one hour from Catarman.
See p349 for information on boats to and
from Luzon. Buses meet each boat and depart
for Tacloban on Leyte (P220, six hours).
BALCUARTRO ISLANDS
This group of islands is just below the northwestern point of Samar. The largest is Dalupiri, also called San Antonio, and has good
beaches and clear water; but zillions of spiky
sea-urchins mean reef shoes are a must. Stay
at Flying Dog Resort (cottages P500), the only commercial accommodation on the island. The
setting is a beautiful landscaped garden right
on the beach, but the pretty cottages arent
well maintained. Electricity is limited, so
rooms can be hot if there is no breeze.
You can hire a boat to the island of Capul
to the west, which was a galleon staging
post during Spanish days and has a ruined
watchtower where sentries once combed
the horizon for Moro pirates.
Take a tricycle from Allen to San Isidro
(P20/50 regular/hire), or get off northbound
buses in San Isidro. You may have to hire a
boat to Dalupiri (P150, 15 minutes) if there
are no other passengers. To return to San
Isidro, stand on the beach and wave down
a passing passenger boat (P20).
CALBAYOG
%055 / pop 147,200
The pretty road from Allen to Calbayog hugs

the coast, passing through villages and river
SWIMMING IN THE DARK
The Caecogobius cryptophthalmus now
say it five times fast is further proof that
necessity is the mother of invention. This
7cm-long fish, discovered in 1987 in the
cave system around Calbiga, appears to
have no eyes, at least none that we can
see. After all, whats the point when you
live in permanent darkness? This extremely
rare type of fish, the first found in the Philippines, has eyes embedded under its skin;
this is evidence for some that evolution is
still under way, however in which direction
is the question.
estuaries framed with nipa palms, and has

a backdrop of mountains. Calbayog has a
busy wharf area that is full of painted cargo,
fishing and passenger boats, and is walking
distance from the town centre and hotels.
Calbayog comes alive for the annual fiesta on 7 and 8 September, with parades,
outdoor performances and re-enactments,
cultural displays and huge street markets.
There are several Internet cafs in town
including Citilinks (Magsaysay Blvd). On the way
to the airport is the Marjo-Cristal Pension (r from
P500; a) which has simple and clean rooms.
Theres a restaurant attached.
There are food stalls set up nightly along
the west side of Nijaga Park near Rosales
bridge and an Orange Brutus on Orquin Ave
on the corner of Nijaga and Navarro Sts.

Asian Spirit (%209 1364) flies between Calbayog and Manila three days a week (P2600,
one hour).
There are many regular daily buses between Calbayog and Catarman via Allen
(P48, four hours) and between Calbayog
and Catbalogan (P35, two hours). Jeepneys
ply the coastal road, but its faster to take a
bus between the major towns. All jeepneys
from Allen depart from and terminate at
the Capoocan bus terminal north of Rosales
bridge. From there its a P10 tricycle ride
into the town proper.
There is a boat from Calbayog to Masbate
(P100, six hours) on Saturday mornings.
CATBALOGAN & AROUND

%055 / pop 84,180
The sound you hear in Catbalogan is silence,

at least compared to most tricycle-clogged
towns. Only pedal power is allowed in the
centre, which added to the fact that Catbalogan has the best choice of accommodation
on the island, makes it the most logical place
to base yourself if you intend to explore the
interior. Theres an impressive looking city
hall. Catbalogan is the provincial capital of
western Samar, and in the middle of Pita
Park, a little patch of greenery not far from
the port, there is a memorial to the Doa
Paz ferry disaster. Most of the victims were
from Catbalogan and elsewhere on Samar
(see the boxed text, p352).
But the real reason to visit Catbalogan is
in order to get out of it, to venture out to
the gorges, deep ravines, lush forest, caves

and subterranean rivers to the north and
east. Nearby are the waterfalls of Pinipsakan,
Bungliw, Bangon, Mawacat and Larik, the
Guinogo-an cave system, and Mapaso Hot Springs
(where, remarkably, small red crustaceans
called pokot survive in the scalding water).
The Calbiga Cave, the Philippines biggest karst
formation and at 2970 hectares, one of the
largest in Asia, is an adventurers playground.
It was only first systematically explored in
1987 by an eight-person team of Italian speleologists, and the main cave, Langun, has a
chamber the size of three football fields. All
these attractions are between one and two
hours drive, plus between 15 and 40 minutes walk, from the city.
Trexplore, a one-man operation run by the
entrepreneurial and engaging Joni A Bonifacio (%251 2301, 0919 294 3865; trexplore@yahoo.com;
Abesamis Store, Allen Ave), is the only outfit qualified to lead trips to caves, rivers and gorges
all over Samar. An avid and passionate
mountain biker, Joni can tailor trips to
about any specifications, however its best
to make arrangements well in advance.
Information
Roys Internet Caf (2nd fl, Casa Christina Hotel, General
Roque St; h8am-10pm) charges P20 per hour.
Equitable PCI, Landbank and Metrobank
all have ATMs.
Sleeping
Rolet Hotel (%251 5512, 0921 715 5184; R&L Bldg,
Mabini Ave; s/d from P650/850; a) This could be
the best value in all of Samar. The Rolet is a
highly recommended place to base yourself
if youre exploring the interior. Its professionally run and while the rooms are nothing spectacular, they are clean, modern and
well maintained. Theres a bright 2nd-floor
sitting area.
Summers Garden Pension House (%251 5135; r
P800-1200; a) An excellent alternative to the
Rolet or even the first choice for those looking for more homey accommodation. This
is a large, immaculately kept house with
wooden floors and a sunny patio and garden
in the front yard. The four rooms are all large
and have big, almost royal-looking beds. The
more expensive room has private bathroom.
Theres another branch a few minutes away
on 3rd St, however its only an ordinary hotel
with slightly grubby rooms.
S A MA R C a t b a l o g a n & A r o u n d 351
Casa Christina Hotel (%356 1725; 152 San Roque

St; s/d with fan P150/250, s/d with air-con P500/700) The
walls of the Casa Christina are painted bright
and happy pinks, yellows and greens. Its up
a flight of stairs above an Internet caf.
Fortune Hotel (%251 2147; 555 Del Rosario St; r with
fan/air-con from P220/650) A reliable long-standing hotel, the Fortune has a wide range of
rooms in terms of size and conveniences.
Regardless of your choice, its not the quietest part of town.
Maqueda Bay Hotel (%251 2386; r P500-700;
a) A few kilometres south of the centre
of town, the Maqueda has basic rooms with
bathrooms but the real draw is the restaurant over the water with picture windows,
perfect for taking in the fantastic sunsets.
Eating
Ernies Pizza (%251 3285; pizzas P40; a) Ernies
is a friendly place, always busy, serving up
so-so pizzas and ever-popular halu-hal to
locals. One of the rooms has air-con.
Fortune Hotel Restaurant (dishes P50) A bustling large dining room on the ground floor
of the hotel of the same name, serving up
Chinese and Filipino dishes.
Ohayo Fast Food Restaurant (hamburgers P20;
h7am-9.30pm) On the same street as the Rolet
Hotel, Ohayo serves up Filipino fast-food
staples and noodle dishes (P80).
Choritos Fast Food (meals P30; h 7am-8pm)
Filipino specials, empanadas (pastries with
sweet or savoury fillings) and baked goods.
Theres also Tonys Kitchen, JCs Foodspot and an Orange Brutus.

There are frequent buses between Calbayog
and Catbalogan (P70, two hours); the last
departs around 6pm. There are also jeepneys, but its faster to take a bus. There are
daily bus services to Borongan (P60, three
hours) on the east coast and buses (P50,
three hours) and air-con vans plying the
potholed road to Tacloban on Leyte. Buray,
about half an hour out of Catbalogan, is the
junction for BoronganTacloban buses, so
there are more services to the east coast
from Buray than from Catbalogan.
Philtranco buses to Manila (P1000, 18
hours) leave every two hours or so from the
bus station near the wharf.
Sulpicio Lines has a Cebu-bound boat
every Friday at 6pm (P490, 12 hours).
T H E V I S AYA S
T H E V I S AYA S
350 S A MA R B a l c u a r t r o I s l a n d s
LEGACY OF A FERRY DISASTER

While the name Titanic has entered the English lexicon as shorthand for a terrible tragedy, most
people know nothing of an accident that took more than four times as many lives and to this
day is the worlds worst peacetime sea disaster. In December 1987 the passenger ferry Doa
Paz collided with the 629-ton tanker Victor in an enormous explosion in the Tablas Strait off the
island of Mindoro in the Philippines. The tanker, owned by the oil company Caltex, was loaded
with thousands of barrels of fuel oil, and the Doa Paz, owned by Sulpicio Lines, was overloaded
with passengers, thousands of whom were never recorded on the ships manifest.
The ferrys departure from Tacloban was delayed for over a dozen hours, nothing unusual for
anyone who has ever been on a passenger ferry in the country, and it stopped in Catbalogan to
pick up additional passengers on its way to Manila. Its generally accepted that more than 5000
people perished that night, and only 24 of the passengers survived. By comparison, around 1500
people perished in the sinking of the Titanic and fewer than 1000 died when the Estonia sank off
the coast of Finland. Sulpicio Lines, which is in operation today, though under different management, never admitted carrying more than the maximum passengers allowed; it paid settlements
to the families of half the victims which many believe were inadequate compensation.
A recently built airport is at Buri beach,

9km from town and there are tentative
plans for Asian Spirit to fly here.
BORONGAN
%053 / pop 55,140
To reach Borongan on the middle of Samars remote east coast, you pass forested,
mountainous country, little villages seemingly unfazed by the outside world and finally the waters of the Pacific where surf
is up intermittently throughout the year,
though its really only for the experienced,
hardy and patient. There are marlin and
sailfish offshore and you can go fishing with
locals if conditions are right. The scenic
white-knuckle road joining the east and
west coasts ends at the small town of Taft
named after the first US Governor-General
of the Philippines, William Howard Taft
where there have been confirmed sightings
of the Philippine eagle in the nearby forest.
Borongan is also the jumping-off point
for the island of Divinubo, a pretty spot
10 minutes offshore, with a lighthouse
built by the Americans in 1906. Divinubo
has good snorkelling, caves and forested
slopes.
Sleeping & Eating

Hotel Dona Vicente (%261 3586; hoteldonavicenta@
yahoo.com; r from P880; as) Attached to the
new Uptown Mall, Dona Vicente is the
classiest place in Borongan and, maybe most
importantly, has a nice pool. Modern rooms
have air-con, cable TV and hot water.
Domsowir Hotel (%261 2133; r with fan/air-con
P250/500) A decided step down in terms of
quality, the Domsowir is centrally located
and the rooms have cable TV. Theres a
good restaurant attached.
Pirates Cove (cottages P800-1200) Road signs
directing you to Pirates Cove are scattered
along the coastal road but the resort itself
is near the port in Borongan. The nipa
cottages have a few unusual nods to style
like mosaics and shell mirrors. There is a
sea pool at low tide, good snorkelling and
breezy pavilions out over the water. You can
arrange day trips and boat hire from here.

Regular buses run between Borongan and
Catbalogan (P60, three hours) and Tacloban
(P150, five hours) on Leyte via Basey. There
are also buses to Manila (see p349). Jeepneys make the journey to Guiuan (P40, 2
hours) every hour from 7am until 6pm.
Information
GUIUAN
There are a few Internet cafs in town including Hyper Drive (Abenis St) and Space One
(Cinco St) across from the Eagle Star booking
office and bus terminal. The Metrobank has
an ATM.
%053 / pop 38,694
The literal and metaphorical end of the road

at the southeastern tip of Samar, Guiuan
(ghee-won) will perhaps one day be a tourist destination. For now, for better or worse,
its a typical town with beautiful surroundings but lacking any accommodation to
match. It does have an array of historically
significant attractions spanning the period
from first colonisers to the days of the final
liberators. Visit the impressive and wellpreserved 16th-century church with fabulous
carved Spanish doors and altar. Walk up to
the weather station for wide, sweeping views
across the Pacific Ocean and Leyte Gulf.
During WWII, the US military transformed
the area into a launching pad for attacks on
Japan, and it was once the largest PT (patrol boat) base in the world with as many
as 300 boats and 150,000 troops stationed
here; the 2km runway is still serviceable. Go
across the bay (a few minutes by bangka) to
the island of Tubabao, where traces remain
of the period when White Russian migrs
lived here most had been living in Shanghai and Canton after fleeing the Russian
Revolution. The White Russians took refuge here after the newly communist Peoples
Republic of China sent them packing.
Sleeping & Eating

Concordias Place (% 582 1086; r with fan/air-con
P350/550) This large family home has an attractive waterfront backyard and several
simple rooms with polished wooden floors,
however the mattresses are nothing more
than thin plastic cushions. Bathrooms are
shared.
Tanghay Lodge (%271 2027; r P450-700) The
steaming cell-like rooms are what youd expect judging by the unpainted and crumbling
hulk of a building 1km or so from the town
centre (tricycle P5). More expensive rooms
have air-con and private bathroom. The
Tanghay (pronounced town-hi) does have a
little roped-off swimming area in the bay and
a concrete pavilion where food is served.

Several buses and jeepneys (P100, three
hours) leave for Tacloban in the morning;
the last departs at around 3pm. A more
comfortable alternative is to take a L-300
van (P120, 2 hours). Regular jeepneys run
to Borongan (P40, 2 hours). If you leave
too late in the day its possible to catch an
onward van or jeepney by waiting, possibly a long time, at the junction where the
road forks north to Borongan and west to
Tacloban.
S A MA R A r o u n d G u i u a n 353
AROUND GUIUAN
Theres good swimming at 3km long Ngolos

Beach on the Pacific side of nearby cavefilled Calicoan Island. At the time of research,
the owners of the deluxe Pansukian resort
on Siargao Island, Mindanao, were developing a surf camp resort here. WWII historians will also want to see the remains
of Navy 3149 Base. Elsewhere on Calicoan,
theres pleasant swimming, snorkelling and
beachcombing on Sulangan Beach.
The island of Homonhon is where Magellan
first landed in the Philippines on 16 March
1521. The island has blowholes, white-sand
beaches and a freshwater cascade and creek.
You can get a public bangka from Guiuan
(P20, two hours) during daylight hours and
depending on the tide.
Suluan, an hour beyond Homonhon, has a
derelict lighthouse. The 500 steps up to it are
good exercise and the reward is a fantastic
view across the islands of Leyte Gulf and the
Pacific Ocean. There are also coastal caves
that are accessible at low tide. If you want
to stay overnight on Suluan, the balangay
(outrigger boat) captain will help you.
Marabut Islands
There is something uplifting and magical
about turning a bend in the road and spotting one of the dozens of miniature jagged
limestone islands off a stretch of the coastline between Basey and Marabut; the views
here are reminiscent of a shrunken version of
BALANGIGA MASSACRE
Throughout September of 1901, Filipino
guerrillas, many of them dressed as women,
infiltrated the town of Balangiga between
Basey and Guiuan. By smuggling weapons
hidden inside coffins, which they claimed
contained the corpses of cholera victims,
the guerrillas were able to stockpile weapons in the local church. On 28 September
the guerrillas then attacked and killed most
of the US garrison stationed there. A terrible
revenge was subsequently taken by relieving US forces, who were instructed to kill
anyone capable of bearing arms, including
all boys aged 10 years and over. The commanding officer was later court-martialled.
There is an annual re-enactment and commemoration on that date.
T H E V I S AYA S
T H E V I S AYA S
352 S A MA R B o r o n g a n
L E Y T E 355
Leyte
This is Samars premier natural attraction, a

protected area of caves and forest, and home
to at least six of Samars endemic birds. Access is via Basey which, given its proximity
to Leyte, is usually visited from Tacloban.
For further information see p359.
LEYTE
TACLOBAN
Catbalogan
WESTERN
SAMAR
Kawayan
Biliran
Island
Jubay
SAMAR
Caibiran
BILIRAN
Villalon
LEYTE
Malapascua
Island
Biliran
San Juanico
Bridge
Cabucgayan
Calubian
San Isidro
Leyte
Belen
To Luzon
Borongan
Sohoton
Natural Bridge
National
Park
Babatngon
See Biliran Island Map (p365)
Barugo
Lemori
San
Miguel
Carigara
EASTERN
SAMAR
Basey
Tunga
Tacloban
Villaba
LEYTE
Kananga
Palo
Aguiting
Libungao
Palompon
Mt Cabalian
(1000m)
Lake
Leyte
Danao
National
Ormoc
Park
Dolores
To Luzon;
Masbate
San
Pedro
Bay
Jaro
Tanauan
Tolosa
Dagami
Burauen
Isabel
Dulag
Albuera
Merida
CEBU
Mayorga
La Paz
Caridad
Lake
Mahagnao
Volcanic National
Park
Tulang
Island
CAMOTES
ISLANDS
Pacijan
Island
MacArthur
Baybay
Hilosig
Tudela
Plaridel
Mahaplag
Inopacan
CAMOTES
SEA
To Cebu
LEYTE
GULF
Abuyog
LEYTE
Gabas
Poro
Island
Poro
To Cebu
Ponson
Island
%053 / pop 178,640
Silago
Hindang
SOUTHERN
LEYTE
Sogod
Hilongos
Bontoc
Libagon
Bato
Hinundayan
St Bernard
BOHOL
Matalom
Sogod
Bay
Anahawan
San
Juan
Dinagat
Island
Liloan
Hanginan
h
n
a n
Ubay
Lapinin
Island
Talibon
Malitbog
Maasin
SURIGAO
DEL NORTE
San
Francisco
Macrohon
e
l
While its the political capital of Leyte, this

bustling city is the geographic and commercial centre of both Leyte and Samar. Smack
in the middle of this pair of islands separated
only by the San Juanico Strait, Tacloban is
a relatively cosmopolitan outpost in a large
underdeveloped and poor territory.
Activity centres on the bustling wharf
area and market in the middle of town. Taclobans most famous daughter is Imelda
Romualdez Marcos, whose family home is
at Tolosa, a little way south; the familys
influence in the town is evident in street
names and various public buildings.
Historically, Tacloban is better known
as the place to which General MacArthur
returned with US liberating forces on 20
October 1944 (actually, he landed at Palo,
a few kilometres outside the city). This date
is celebrated annually, and there are WWII
memorials around the town, including
Buad
Island
Ri ver
To
Cebu
Naval
Daram
Island
Culaba
Almeria
Higatangan
Island
Tacloban is connected with Manila by PAL

and Cebu Pacific. See p358 for more information.
Maripipi
Island
BUS
There are frequent bus services between

Leyte and Biliran and Samar, and daily connections with Luzon and Mindanao.
Regular buses leave from Tacloban and
Ormoc for Manila via Samar.
Philtranco runs from Tacloban and Ormoc
to Davao (P560 to P705) on Mindanao,
via Surigao, in the afternoon departure
times fluctuate.
There are convenient air-con van services between several of the larger towns
on Leyte, Biliran and Samar.
50 km
30 miles
CANAHAUAN
ISLANDS
MASBATE
AIR
To
Luzon
0
0
LEYTE
For students and historians of the Pacific

and WWII, the name of this Visayas island
conjures up images of bloody naval battles
and the site of MacArthurs famous return.
For Filipinos its equally associated with
the rags-to-riches rise of Imelda Marcos
and the nostalgic, romanticised portrait she
painted of her birthplace after she made
good in the capital. For travellers, the historical monuments aside, southern Leyte is
wrapped around the deep-water Sogod Bay,
which contains many species of coral and
fish, including a population of ihotiki (local
Cebuano language for whale shark), visible
from boats or from an island viewing station near Liloan. There are dive sites around
Sogod Bay and Limasawa, with rich reefs
and drop-offs. Wall and cave diving is possible at Lungsodaan in Padre Burgos. The Cebuano-speaking southern Leyteos are more
laid-back and hospitable than their Warayspeaking neighbours in northern Leyte. The
north is cattle-ranching country, while the
mountainous interior offers hiking.
Most boat connections with Cebu are to

Cebu City, including a nightly boat from
Baybay, a morning boat from Hilongos,
twice-weekly departures from Tacloban and
more frequent departures from Ormoc.
Theres a daily boat service that sails
from Maasin to Ubay on Bohol.
A boat leaves Baybay for Manila weekly.
Sulpicio Lines leaves Ormoc for Manila via
Masbate once a week.
There are several boats a week that leave
Maasin for Surigao (P300, 1 hours). A
boat leaves Baybay for Surigao via Maasin
on Friday, and there are three ferries daily
from Liloan to Surigao, Mindanao (P275,
3 hours, 9am, noon and 4pm).
ey
Sohoton Natural Bridge National Park
BOAT
Bas
Vietnams Halong Bay. There are a few scattered beachside huts but the nicest by far is the
Marabut Marine Park Beach Resort (%Tacloban 053325 6000; leypark@mozcom.com; r with fan P2100), which
has several wooden-and-bamboo bungalows
with private bathrooms. A restaurant does
excellent seafood. There are also kayaks and
snorkelling gear for rent. You can take a
jeepney from Tacloban to Basey (P20, one
hour), then transfer to another jeepney for
the remaining 15km, or more conveniently
take one of the Duptour vans to Guiuan and
ask to be let off at the resort.
Padre
Burgos
Tangkaan
Point
Limasawa
Island
Panaon
Island
San
Ricardo
BOHOL
Surigao
San
Francisco
MINDANAO
T H E V I S AYA S
T H E V I S AYA S
354 L E Y T E Ta c l o b a n
Tacloban
Festivals & Events

Pintados-Kasadyaan or painted festival, held
on 29 June, celebrates the traditional tattooing practised here before the Spanish
arrived; nowadays water-based paints are
used for the festivals body decoration.
TOP END
Leyte Park Resort Hotel (%325 6000; r P2000-4600;

as) The premier resort in Tacloban. The
standard rooms are showing wear and tear,
and the motel-style building isnt a match
for the beautiful waterfront location. Goodsized pool, (nonguests P100), restaurant
r En
pe
Jae
na
San Pedro
Bay
St
St
Department of
Environment &
Natural Resources
(DENR)
34
St
de
St
28
nt
20
26
Ju
ve
an
te
32
St
29
27
12
St
no
City Hall
21
Ni
ra
Ri
19
or
10
Za
rm
te
os
22
Ve
St
rg
ez
8
Bu
lP
ila
13
St
St
ld
24
az
Av
ua
dio
St
ez
au
3
m
Cl
Ro
Pa
ar
17
rS
23
Gaisano
Department
Store
Ju
st
ice
Go
St
33
l
Sa
Mang
15
St
age
St
ez
ato
rtir
Lo
Sen
Ma
ce
Tre
31
es
Santo Nio
Church
25
18
(Mag
allan
es)
St
Cancabato
Bay
al
Esperas
Take a sunrise climb along the Stations of

the Cross to the top of Calvary Hill for wide
views across the San Juanico Strait. Visit
the chaotic and colourful market early, as
much of the fresh produce (including the
gorgeous flowers) is gone by 7am and the
meaty section grows smelly.
A must is the Santo Nio Shrine & Heritage
Center (admission for up to 6 people P200; h8.30am11.30am & 1-4.30pm), an enormous palatial residence and opulent guesthouse built to Imelda
Marcos specifications but never slept in. It
houses an extraordinary collection of antiques and objets dart from across the world.
In every room there is a diorama of Imelda
in the midst of one beneficial act or another.
The centre is sadly under-curated, decaying
almost before your eyes, but its well worth
the entry fee for a guided tour.
2
11
Calvary
Hill
Sights & Activities
14
16
o
bang
fl, Foundation Plaza Bldg; h8am-5.30pm Mon-Fri) In

the small office complex to the left of the entrance of the
Leyte Park Hotel.
Market
30
on
Visit the DENR office off MH Del Pilar St

north of the city centre for maps and information on the Leyte Mountain Trail.
Tourist office (%321 2048; dotev@skyinet.net; Ground
To Buddhist Temple;
Paseo de Legaspi;
San Juanico Bridge
Jon
Re
TOURIST INFORMATION
35
Sa
Salazar St; both have ATMs.

Landbank (Justice Romualdez St)
PNB (cnr Santo Nio & Justice Romualdez Sts) ATM.
Wharf
ve
Equitable PCI Bank (Rizal Ave) Another branch on
Panalaron
Bay
lA
MONEY
Hospital
Plaza
Libertad
Ma
g
Provincial saysa
yB
Capitol
lvd
Building
500 m
0.3 miles
Childrens
Park
za
Queensland Internet Caf (Patermo St)

Roys Internet (MH del Pilar; h24hr)
Tristar Internet (Ave Veteranos; h9am-midnight)
Ri
h8am-midnight)
Most charge around P20 per hour.

3M (h9am-9pm Mon-Sat) Opposite Alejandros Hotel.
Centrelink Internet (225 Justice Romualdez St;
Rosvenil Pensione (%321 2676; 302 Burgos St; s/d

P450/650; a) There are two Rosvenil Pensiones: the old building with basic rooms or
the new addition of 18 Art Deco, sparkling
rooms in a beautiful three-storey building
with wrought-iron railings and balcony.
Alejandros Hotel (%321 7033; alejandro@nxdsl
.com.ph; Patermo St; r P950-1528; a) This threestorey hotel built around the beautiful
1930s home of Alejandro Montejo looks
like a regal colonial-era villa. The rooms
are nothing special, but the common areas
of the old building especially the veranda
on the 2nd floor make up for them. The
attached restaurant and coffee shop is also
a plus. Houses a good permanent photo
exhibition.
Asia Stars Hotel (%321 5388; Zamora St; s/d
P750/900; a) This centrally located five-storey
building has a dull grey faade and none of
the charm of Rosvenil, but its modern and
clean hotel rooms with extra-big TVs are
good value. Marble lobby and elevator.
Hotel La Roca (% 325 3337; Zamora St; s/d
P750/850; a) La Roca has an elevator, not to
be ignored when its hot (which is always),
and the executive rooms have windows that
bring in lots of light. Less expensive rooms
are just as clean but can be dark. Professional and courteous staff.
Tacloban Plaza Hotel (%321 2444; Justice Romualdez
St; r P495-700; a) Even though they are a little
dark, the least expensive rooms at Tacloban
are nevertheless large, comfortable and good
value.
Manhattan Hotel (% 321 4170; Rizal Ave; s/d
around P500/750; a) Next to the market and
wharf, the marble-floored modern rooms
at the Manhattan are large but a little rough
around the edges.
Primrose Hotel (%321 2248; Zamora St; r with fan/
air-con P300/750) Cheaper rooms here are good
value though they tend to be dark unlike
the more expensive air-con rooms. Its on
a very busy part of the street.
0
0
TACLOBAN
sS
INTERNET ACCESS
BUDGET & MIDRANGE
rre
Information
Sleeping
To
moulded reliefs on outer walls of the Capitol

Building that commemorate the landing.
L E Y T E Ta c l o b a n 357
To Bus Station (2.5km);

Airport (10km); Philtranco
Park Beach Resort (12km)
INFORMATION
Centrelink Internet..............................1
Equitable PCI Bank.............................2
Landbank...........................................4
PNB....................................................5
Post Office..........................................6
Queensland Internet Caf...................7
Roy's Internet.....................................8
Tourist Office.....................................9
Tristar Internet.................................10
B2
A2
B2
B2
B2
B1
B3
B2
C1
A3
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

Stations of the Cross........................11 A3
SLEEPING
Alejandro's Hotel..............................12 B3
Asia Stars Hotel................................13 B2
Hotel La Roca.................................(see 14)
Jollibee.............................................14 B2
Leyte Park Hotel...............................15 C1
Manhattan Hotel..............................16 A2
Primrose Hotel..................................17 B2
and nightly entertainment: disco, ballroom

dancing or live music in the open-air bar.
Eating
A boom in the restaurant scene has hit Tacloban in the last few years, making it by
far the best place to eat in Leyte or Samar
and thats not meant as a backhanded com-
Rosvenil Pensione.............................18 B3
Tacloban Plaza Hotel........................19 B2
EATING
Guiseppes........................................20 B3
Hop Chan Teahouse.......................(see 14)
Julios Buffet & Jazz Joint..................21 B3
Mla Kim Kiam Restaurant................22 B3
Och Seafood & Grill........................23 B2
Shakey's Pizza..................................24 B2
Socgarden Grill.................................25 B3
Stephanie Smoke Haus.....................26 B3
DRINKING
Bos Coffee Club...............................27 B3
Kyles Wine Bar................................28 B3
Meld'z Wineshop.............................29 B3
TRANSPORT
Bus & Jeepney Terminal....................30
Cebu Pacific Airways........................31
Duptours..........................................32
Grand Tours.....................................33
Van Vans.........................................34
WG&A SuperFerry............................35
A2
B2
B3
A2
A2
B1
pliment. Besides fresh seafood, there are

also several modern, independent eating
establishments in Tacloban serving up a
number of different cuisines.
The citys famously delicious cakes and
sweetmeats are favourite pasalubong (souvenirs) for visiting Filipinos to take home.
Try binagol, a sticky confection wrapped up
T H E V I S AYA S
T H E V I S AYA S
356 L E Y T E Ta c l o b a n
in banana leaves; it is available from various

shops on Zamora St, near the waterfront.
Och Seafood & Grill (%325 4171; dishes P120;
a) Och is a small, stylish, modern restaurant. Pick your own fish, squid or shellfish
from the display or try one of the enormous
soups, thick enough for a meal for two.
Guiseppes (%321 4910; 173 Ave Veteranos; dishes
P200; h10.30am-10.30pm; a) Where the crme
de la crme of Tacloban go to eat, brickwalled Guiseppes is decorated like an
Italian bistro and serves pastas and pizzas
(P95) and a good Caesar salad (P125).
Stephanie Smoke Haus (%325 3797; Ave Vetera
nos; dishes P160; a) Part of Taclobans restaurant row, Stephanie has a modern, comfortable dining area and a selection of grilled
fish, shrimp, meat and vegetable dishes.
Socgarden Grill (dishes P100; h11am-2pm & 6pmmidnight) Next door to the Rosvenil Pensione,
this casual outdoor grill does fish raw (sashimi P100) or cooked (lapu-lapu P100) and
sizzling gambas (shrimp) (P150).
Julios Buffet & Jazz Joint (%325 8808; Patermo
St; dishes P75; a) This little place near Alejandros Hotel has a good nightly all-you-caneat (P120) of Filipino dishes and live jazz
every Thursday and Friday at 9pm.
Mla Kim Kiam Restaurant (%325 1821; MH del
Pilar; dishes P100; a) A mix of Filipino, Japanese
and Chinese, Mla Kim has hot-pot tofu
(P40) and grilled fish (P120) on the menu.
Hop Chan Teahouse (%321 1111; 26 Zamora St;
dishes from P80; a) Between Jollibee and Hotel
La Rica, this Chinese restaurant is a cross
between fast food and fine dining. Chow
down on hot pot (P175), dim sum (P43) and
noodle and soup dishes.
Cruise the lechon stalls along Real St for
slices of whole pigs on spits and barbecued
chicken, or visit the food stalls around the
market. Fast-food joints, including Shakeys
Pizza, are on Zamora St.
Drinking
WWII history comes alive in the township

of Palo, 12km from Tacloban. Its the site
of Red Beach where, on 20 October 1944,
MacArthur fulfilled his vow to return and
liberate the Philippines from the occupying
Japanese forces (see p27).
At Red Beach itself, 1km or so from Palo
town, there is the Leyte Landing Memorial, a
group of stalwart, larger-than-life-sized figures that appear to be walking out of the
sea. Theres also a rock garden where many
Meldz Wineshop (%325 2288; h9am-midnight SunThu, 9am-2am Fri & Sat; a) A sophisticated little
place, stacked with bottles of wine on one
wall and comfortable indoor and outdoor
seating. Besides wine theres mixed drinks
like Cuba libres (P60) and desserts.
Kyles Wine Bar is a dark little place on Gomez
St for some quality vino. Bos Coffee Club on
Ave Veteranos is a Starbucks clone with
wi-fi Internet, good cakes and comfy chairs.
AIR
From Tacloban, PAL and Cebu Pacific fly to

Manila daily (1 hours). Cebu Pacific has
an office in Senator Enage St.
The airport is about 12km south of the
centre of town. A jeepney will cost P20, or
you can hire a tricycle for P80.
BOAT
Cebu Ferries leaves Tacloban for Cebu (from

P290, 13 hours) on Tuesday and Saturday at
4pm. In the opposite direction, boats depart
from Cebu for Tacloban Monday and Friday
at 6pm.
BUS & JEEPNEY
The Philtranco station is about 2km south of

the city on the airport road. Long-distance
buses leave from here to Manila (26 hours),
with several departures between 6.30am
and 11.30am, one departure around 4pm,
and another around 11.30pm.
Regular daily buses and jeepneys from
other parts of Leyte and Samar use the station by the market in the town centre.
Almost all destinations are also serviced by
much more comfortable and quicker air-con
vans for only slightly more pesos. Duptours
(%321 1370; cnr Ave Veteranos & Santo Nio St), located
behind the Caltex petrol station, has air-con
vans servicing southern Leyte, Bilaran (P120,
2 hours) and a few Samar destinations including Borongon (P180, 3 hours) and
Guiuan (P120, three hours). Van Vans (Salazar St)
and Grand Tours (Burgos St) are similar companies
with vans to other Leyte and eastern Samar
destinations respectively including Catbalogan (P200, 2 hours), Calbayog (P275, 3
hours) and Allen (P300, 5 hours).
AROUND TACLOBAN
%053
Palo
international tributes were set in stone in

1994 to commemorate the 50th anniversary
of the Leyte landing.
Visit Guinhangdan Hill, known in WWII
as Hill 522, the scene of fierce fighting. The
beautiful, 16th-century church was turned
into a hospital from October 1944 to March
1945.
MacArthur Park Beach Resort (% 323 4095;
pta-mpbr@evis.net.ph; r P1500-3300; as) is just
beyond the Red Beach monument on a
stunning part of the coast. The rooms arent
decorated especially nicely though they are
large and sunny. The resort has a swimming
pool (nonguests P100).
Take a jeepney from the market in Tacloban for P10, or hire a tricycle for P100
per hour. Ask the driver to drop you off
at Red Beach, on the Tacloban road about
1km before Palo township. Tricycles are
available locally to travel the short distance
between each site.
Sohoton Natural Bridge National Park

Although Sohoton Natural Bridge National
Park is on Samar, it is easiest to access it
from Tacloban, which is why its included
here. The park contains a series of caves
under limestone outcrops. There are enormous, sparkling stalactites and stalagmites,
with cascades and swimming holes as well
as three navigable rivers, the Basey, the
Sohoton and the Bugasan Rivers, which
traverse the cave system. The park is reached
by boat, with forest and small villages on the
riverbanks on either side. The forest in this
area is home to at least six species of Samars
endemic birds, monkeys and other wildlife.
You should check conditions before you
head off after heavy rain the caves may
be inaccessible.
Take a jeepney (P20 per person, 45 minutes) or boat (P15 per person, one hour)
from the market in Tacloban across the San
Juanico Strait to Basey.
Ask for information at the tourist office
in Tacloban (p356), or in Basey call into the
Municipal Tourism Information Office (%053-276
1471; Basey wharf; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 8am-1pm Sat
& Sun) and ask for Mr Tanni Adel, who will
organise transport and a guide. On the

weekend guides can be found around the
market in Basey where you can also check
L E Y T E Pa d re B u r g o s & A r o u n d 359
out the mat weavings for which the town

is renowned. From Basey to Sohoton takes
two hours by boat.
Pumpboats (P700) hold five to seven
people. You pay a US$2 (or peso equivalent) park entry fee at Basey. Rent a kerosene lamp for P200 or take a good torch
(flashlight). There are a few other miscellaneous fees: mayors permit P5, service fee
P25, and yes, an actual miscellaneous fee
P10; all per person.
Its recommended to start early (leave by
7am). Take a packed lunch, and if you miss
the last transport back in the late afternoon,
you can stay at Distrajos Lodge (%053-276 1191;
per person P100) in Basey.
Burauen
Burauen, 44km from Tacloban (P30, one
hour by jeepney), is one of the starting
points the other is Ormoc for the Leyte
Mountain Trail. It was also the home of
Justice Romualdez, Imeldas great-greatgrandfather, a renowned composer of
Filipino songs. The township also has a
Japanese war cemetery.
Lake Mahagnao Volcanic National Park

& Leyte Mountain Trail
If you wish to visit this national park site
of former volcanic activity or to hike the
40km mountain trail, you need first to visit
the mayor at the town offices in Burauen
(above) for information.
The trail takes in rainforest, lakes and waterfalls as it crosses the mountain range in
the centre of Leyte. It finishes near Ormoc,
at either Lake Danao National Park (p363),
or at the volcanically active Tongonan National Park. The DENR in Tacloban (p356)
sets up the trail, so you can get information
and look at route maps there.
PADRE BURGOS & AROUND

%053 / pop 8926
This is considered by many to be one of the

premier dive spots in the Philippines, with
pristine coral reefs, deep wall dives and an
abundance and variety of big fish. Padre
Burgos also has some good beaches with
offshore snorkelling, including Tangkaan
Point, to the south of town. A few local
leaders have take the initiative with the help
of the internationally run Coral Cay Conservation programme to stop dynamite and
T H E V I S AYA S
T H E V I S AYA S
358 L E Y T E A r o u n d Ta c l o b a n
cyanide fishing and are in the process of

setting up a marine reserve.
Activities
For those interested in diving, Southern Leyte
Diver Resort and Peters Dive Resort (see
below) charge around US$22 for per boat
dive, or US$19 for shore dives, plus US$5
for equipment per dive. Both can also organise dive trips to the islands of Limasawa
and Panaon; however the crown-of-thorns
starfish is threatening parts of the reef.
There are more than 20 whale sharks,
known locally as ihotiki, that sometimes
congregate in Liloan Bay near the bridge
that connects Panaon Island to Leyte. Boats
dock at Puyaw Islet, an observation station
that has a comfortable bamboo pavilion. If
whale sharks are spotted, a bangka can be
rowed out to get a closer look. There is no
guarantee that whale sharks will be spotted,
though the best time of year to see them is
November and February to June. They are
usually spotted in the late afternoon. Package tours (per person US$12) last all day
and include snorkelling and a picnic lunch.
Bear in mind that you still must pay for the
tour even if no whale sharks are seen.
Trips can be arranged through Southern
Leyte Dive Resort (below), Peters Dive Resort (below) or Rio Cahambing (opposite);
its best to call a few days in advance.
Sleeping & Eating

Southern Leyte Dive Resort (%0918 589 2180; www
.leyte-divers.com; San Roque; r P450-880) The large
and charming bamboo cottages here are
the nicest in Padre Burgos. This family-run
resort and full-service dive centre only 1km
north of town on a little sandy beach is
wonderfully landscaped, with potted plants
and flowers everywhere. A few concrete aircon rooms are in the works but for now
rooms are cooled by fans. Excellent food
includes fresh sashimi and salads.
Peters Dive Resort (%573 0015, 0920 798 4658;
www.whaleofadive.com; r P300-800) Peters is just
off the road on a pebble beach with several
inexpensive rooms with shared bathroom
in the bamboo main building and several
large, more comfortable cottages on the
water with private bathroom. It has a fullservice dive centre and a new 16m bangka.
Davliz Travel Lodge (%573 0002; r with fan/air-con
P550/850) Davliz has a row of concrete cot-
tages hugging a cliff above the same beach

as Peters. Theres a well-stocked bar and
barbecue facilities.
Napantaw Diving Resort (%0919 585 3891; pantao
divers@yahoo.com; San Francisco, Panaon Island) A newly
opened resort on Panaon Island south of
Liloan. Napantaw plans to offer concrete
cottages and nipa huts, diving and a fully
equipped dive operation to take advantage
of the house reef, as well as whale-shark and
dolphin watching and snorkelling trips.

Regular jeepneys and vans travel to Maasin
(P25, 45 minutes) and Ormoc (P155, 2
hours). Jeepneys pass through on their way
to Tacloban but are often full so its always
an option to backtrack to Maasin or to try
to catch one with space in Malitbog.
LIMASAWA ISLAND
pop 5157
Limasawa is historically significant in the

Philippines as the first place in which the
Spanish celebrated mass, on 31 March 1521,
thereby starting the Christianisation of the
country. A pumpboat makes the journey
from Padre Burgos daily (P20, one hour) and
lands at barangay Magellanes. If you plan
to overnight here you need to contact the
mayor (ask around for him) and arrange to
stay at the two-room guesthouse (r P300-400).
The site of the first mass and its commemorative marker is a half-hour hike away
in barangay Triana; a local person will probably offer to walk with you. The island also
has beautiful beaches for swimming, snorkelling and diving. The daily boat to Padre
Burgos leaves Limasawa around 6am.
The boats do not run if the sea is rough,
so be prepared to wait for calm weather.
MALITBOG
%053 / pop 19,320
From the mid-19th century until WWII,

Malitbog enjoyed almost a century of prosperity due to its location near abaca plantations and the edge of deep-water Sogod
Bay. During this time a number of interesting edifices were built that still stand today.
Typically, the town boasts a beautiful old
church, the Santo Nio Parish, constructed of
coral blocks in 1857. Theres also a watchtower built in 1862, the ground floor of
which still serves as the city jail.
A few grand old mansions, once the

homes of the merchant-class elite, can also
be seen around town. One of these, the
Villa Margarita, is open to visitors. Unlike
many of the old architectural gems to be
found in the Philippines, the Villa Margarita, a residence built in 1922, has not
been restored. Short tours (P150) are given
on an appointment-only basis. Contact the
Southern Leyte governors office (%Maasin 548
0882) at least a week in advance.
There are regular jeepneys from Maasin
(P30, one hour) and Padre Burgos (P25, 40
minutes) to Malitbog.
MAASIN & AROUND

%053 / pop 71,160
Maasin (mah-ah-sin), the provincial capital of southern Leyte, is distinguished from

other pedestrian, small port towns by the
slightly languid air from the encroaching jungle. Its a suitable base for hiking
in the region and is the most convenient
place for errands if youre staying in Padre
Burgos.
Theres a beautiful old church, built in
1700, and a huge image of Our Lady of Assumption on a hill behind the town. Built
to commemorate an old legend about an
angel that descended from the heavens to
turn back a typhoon, the image is lit up at
night and looks like a benevolent apparition floating in the sky.
Information
Olvina Internet (Demeterio St; h9am-9pm, Mon-Sat)
charges P20 per hour.
PNB, Metrobank and Landbank all have
ATMs. Candys Supermarket or Luz Pharmacy will change US dollars cash for good
rates. Metrobank changes travellers cheques
with high commission.
Nedgar Garvais in the Provincial Planning
Development Office (PPDO; %570 9486; Provincial
Capital Bldg; h8am-noon & 1-5pm) can provide
basic info about the area.
Rio Cahambing (%0919 585 3891; scuberph@yahoo
.com), now affiliated with Napantao Diving
Resort, operates a one-man southern Leyte
tourism bureau and guide operation from
his home in town. Besides hiking trips,
Rio organises diving and whale-shark trips
(P700 per person).
PAL (%381 4433; 207 Demeterio St) has an office in town.
L E Y T E M a a s i n & A r o u n d 361
Activities
Few people explore the area around Maasin
even though there are several good hikes,
and caves and waterfalls to explore. The
newly created Maasin Youth Organization (MAAYO;
%0919 585 3891; scuberph@yahoo.com), organised
by Rio Cahambing (left), encourages environmental consciousness among the Maasin
youth and provides trained guides for trekking, camping, caving and other activities.
Guinsohotan Falls and Cagnituan Cave are both
around a 6km hike from Maasin, and your
aerobic effort will be rewarded with a refreshing dip in a natural swimming hole.
For hardy explorer types with time on
their hands, Lake Danao in the crater of Mt
Cabalian (1000m), an extinct volcano surrounded by lush forest and birds, is good for
camping. From Maasin its three hours by
bus to the town of Cabalian, from where its
a one- to two-hour hike to the crater. Its best
to contact a guide in Maasin for assistance.
One of the last remaining virgin forests in
Leyte is Patag Daku, found at around 1300m
atop a mountain range near the town of
Libagon, two hours by bus from Maasin. Its
a demanding climb over steep cliffs and narrow ledges to reach this area of more than
1000 hectares full of century-old trees, dense
vegetation, wild boars, deer and a huge variety of tropical birds. The highlight of the
climb is Yamogs Peak, which offers a fantastic
view of Limasawa Island and Sogod Bay to
the west, and the twin islands of San Pedro
and San Pablo in Hinunangan to the east.
Sleeping & Eating

Maasin Country Lodge (%570 8858; r from P450; a)
The most relaxing place to base yourself if
you intend to explore the area. Situated along
the Canturing River, a few minutes tricycle
ride from the town centre, the pink-painted
building has prettily decorated and comfortable rooms. More expensive ones have TV.
Southern Comfort Pensionne (%570 8514; r P550700; a) This is a friendly and clean alternative
if youre keen on staying in the centre of town.
Rooms have TV.
Ampil Pensionne (%570 8084; Tomas Oppus St;
r P450; a) and GV Pensionne (%590 8481; r with
fan/air-con P325/450) have similar quality rooms
though the latter is up three flights of stairs
and rooms are slightly smaller than Ampils.
Superchow Garden Caf (%570 8146; dishes P40)
A pleasant outdoor caf in a park next to a
T H E V I S AYA S
T H E V I S AYA S
360 L E Y T E L i m a s a w a I s l a n d
B I L I R A N I S L A N D 363
Ormoc
ORMOC
%053 / pop 154,300
The surrounding hillsides, mostly logged

and bare of vegetation, are a scenic backdrop for those arriving by boat. Its a striking first picture of Leyte, though otherwise
Ormoc is a typical port town with a bustling
wharf area. A grassy promenade along the
waterfront qualifies as parkland in the Philippines, and its only a short walk before one
is strolling down subdued villagelike paths.
Ormoc was a centre of WWII activity,
with some of the bloodiest battles on Philippine soil taking place over several days
in 1944, between the allied US and Filipino
forces and the retreating Japanese. Yamashitas Gold, a quasi-mythical treasure trove
named after the Japanese commander and
left behind by the fleeing Japanese, is believed by some to be hidden in the hills
outside town (see the boxed text, p137).
Osm
ea
20
23
I Larr
azab
al St
t
ro S
t
lo S
Ormoc
Centrum
Building
Pab
J Na
viles S
os St
Wharf
g St
Ped
t
io S
Burg
17 Ciriaco A
22
Church
Cataa
3
Ormoc
City
9
Superdome Obr
ero
S
San
St
l St
ifac
Market
Bon
15
21
10
Riza
14
11
a St
San
aen
a St
ez J
13
daz
Lop
St
16
18
Arra
Gaisano
Department
Store 12
1
Car
los
Tan
19
St
varro
i St
200 m
0.1 miles
To Main
Post Office
Mabin
Regular buses run to Ormoc (P60, three

hours), Padre Burgos (P50, 45 minutes) and
Tacloban (P150, four hours). There are also
regular buses to Liloan (P80, four hours),
the ferry port for Mindanao.
The nearest boat landing from Cebu is at
Hilongos, 37km north of Maasin. Ocean Jet
(%Cebu 032-254 3687) leaves Hilongos for Cebu
(P570, two hours) at 6am and 12.30pm and
leaves Cebu for Hilongos at 9.30am and
5.30pm. There are many buses and multicabs
(P35) to Maasin. Cokaliong Co (%Cebu 032-272
1118) has an overnight ferry to Cebu leaving at
midnight several times a week (P230).
A bangka ferry leaves for Ubay, Bohol
(P130) every day at 9.30am.
Maasin has good sea connections to
Mindanao (see p354). Cokliang Co has a
boat that leaves Maasin for Surigao every
Wednesday and Friday (P250, six hours)
at 3am.
0
0
ORMOC
To Tacloban
(80km)
Real S
few tennis courts and near the provincial

capital building. Serves sandwiches, burgers and fried fish and calamari.
Kinamot Restaurant (Abgao) Just outside of
town; serves good Filipino food and steaks.
Theres also a Jollibee in town.
To Baybay
(45km)
Ormoc Bay
INFORMATION
BPI..........................................................................1
CupNet Internet Cafe............................................. 2
dKit Internet Caf..................................................3
Equitable PCI Bank.................................................4
Net Bytz Internet.....................................................5
PNB........................................................................6
Town Hall.............................................................. 7
A1
A2
B2
A2
A1
A2
A2
SLEEPING
Hotel Don Felipe.....................................................8
Ormoc Villa Hotel...................................................9
Pongos Hotel........................................................10
Zenaidas Chateau Tourist Inn...............................11
A2
B2
A2
A1
as it gets in Ormoc. The carpeted rooms at

this peach-coloured villa a few minutes from
the centre are large and comfortable. Theres
a good restaurant (burgers P110) and a landscaped garden and pool (nonguests P100).
Zenaidas Chateau Tourist Inn (%255 2517; cnr
Lopez Jaena & J Navarro Sts; s/d P500/600; a) Zenaidas is the best choice in the price range,
offering clean, modern rooms with cable
TV and private bathroom.
Pongos Hotel (%255 2540; fax 561 9721; Bonifacio St;
BOAT
s/d with fan from P220/330, s/d with air-con from P420/620)
BUS
A hotel with a split personality. Ordinary

rooms in the old building are fading while
the new building is a big step up in quality.
Hotel Don Felipe (% 255 2460; fax 255 4306;
I Larrazabal St; r with fan/air-con from P360/480; i) A
hulking prominent building on the waterfront. The rooms in the main building are
well kept and nice while the annex rooms
are decidedly not good value. Theres a coffee shop and Internet caf attached.
All bus and jeepney stations and shipping

offices are located along the waterfront.
There are regular buses, jeepneys and
vans to and from Tacloban (P100, two
hours), Maasin (P130, two hours) in the
south of Leyte, and Naval on Biliran Island
(P100, 1 hours). You can also take buses
northwest to Palompon and San Isidro on
Leyte. Silver Star buses depart Ormoc for
Manila (air-con P1150, 26 hours, 5am). All
Manila-bound buses go via Samar.
Eating
Cebu Ferries plies the OrmocCebu City

route four times a week (P395, five hours).
Sulpicio Lines boats from Ormoc to Cebu
(P210, six hours) leave on Friday and Sunday at midnight. From Cebu to Ormoc departures are on Sunday, Wednesday and
Friday at 1pm.
Sulpicio Lines leaves at 7pm on Tuesdays
for Masbate and then Manila.
Suki Zuki Japanese Restaurant (dishes P60; h10am9.30pm Mon-Sat, 5.30pm-9.30pm Sun) A small modern
AROUND ORMOC
Lake Danao is a beautiful body of fresh

water in the hills above Ormoc. You can
swim and picnic for the day, or camp overnight. Regular jeepneys run from Ormoc
(P20, one hour). It is also one starting point
for the Leyte Mountain Trail; the other is in
Burauen (for details see p359).
If you plan to start hiking from this
end, contact the DENR field office at Lake
Danao.
P15; h8.30am-midnight) and Net Bytz Internet (Navarro St; h8am-10pm) have Internet access.
PNB (Bonifacio St) and BPI (Lopez Jaena St) have
place that looks like a Japanese restaurant

should, serving teppanyaki, sushi and sashimi in Ormoc. Who would have thought?
Tata Vmb Pizzeria (pizzas P60; h7.30am-8pm) Of
the two pizzerias in Ormoc, Tata has more
pleasant outdoor seating and doubles as a
bakery.
Chez Andr Pizzeria (pizzas P54; h8.30am-10pm)
Only a few blocks from Tata, Chez Andr
does have the more Italian-sounding name
and the pizzas are equally good, but the too
brightly lit dining room isnt as nice.
Zenaidas Restaurant (cnr Lopez Jaena & J Navarro Sts;
dishes P60) On the ground floor of Zenaidas
Chateau Tourist Inn, serving Filipino dishes
such as pansit (noodles) and grilled meats.
There are plenty of bakeries including
Park & Go Bakeshop and fruit stalls in
town. Magnolias Ice Cream looks like an
old-time parlour and is worth stopping in
for a frozen treat.
Theres also a Jollibee near the corner of
Rizal and Aviles Sts.
ATMs and change US dollars. Theres also a

branch of the Equitable PCI Bank (Burgos St) here.
EATING
Chez Andr Pizzeria..............................................12 A1
Fruit Stalls.............................................................13 A1
Jollibee................................................................. 14 A2
Magnolia Ice Cream............................................. 15 A2
Park & Go Bakeshop.............................................16 A1
Suki Zuki Japanese Restaurant.............................. 17 A2
Tata Vmb Pizzeria.................................................18 A1
Zenaida's Restaurant..........................................(see 11)
TRANSPORT
Asian Spirit...........................................................19
Bus Station...........................................................20
Jeepney Station.................................................... 21
Ormoc City Bus Terminal...................................... 22
Supercat/Cebu Ferries.......................................... 23
A1
A2
A2
A2
A2
Information
Sleeping
CupNet Internet Caf (per hr P40; h7am-2am MonSat), dKit Internet Caf (Ormoc Centrum Bldg; per hr
Ormoc Villa Hotel (%255 5006; www.ormocvillahotel

.com; Obrero St; r from P1700; as) This is as lavish
AIR
Asian Spirit (%255 9068; 26 Osmea St) has flights

Monday, Wednesday, Friday and Sunday
between Ormoc and Manila (1 hour).
Lake Danao National Park
BAYBAY
pop 95,630
The south-bound road from Ormoc to

Maasin passes through Baybay (bye-bye).
This small township has boat connections
to Cebu, Manila and Surigao (see p354).
Baybay is known for its smooth but potent
tuba (palm wine).
BILIRAN ISLAND
Tourism is yet to take off on this quiet island province, despite a number of Miss Biliran Tourism winners being crowned over
the years, a reputation as a source for pure
and sweet water, numerous waterfalls, rice
terraces and several sandy, white beaches
T H E V I S AYA S
T H E V I S AYA S
362 L E Y T E O r m o c
B I L I R A N I S L A N D N o r t h o f N a v a l 365
Biliran Island
on offshore islands. Biliran, about 32km

long and 8km wide, became a province
separate from Leyte in 1992; a short bridge
connects the two.
Biliran is lush and it can rain any time,
with the most rainfall in December and
the least in April. This climate allows three
rice harvests annually, and some rice is exported. There is little else in the way of
exports or industry though, and most people are subsistence farmers or fishers. They
generally speak Cebuano on the west coast
and Waray-Waray on the east.

You can get to Biliran from Cebu, Leyte,
Luzon and Samar.
NAVAL
%053
Naval (nah-bahl), the provincial capital,

is stretched along a road from a handful
of government buildings to the low-rise,
harbour area. Its worthwhile really only
as base for day trips to Higatangan Island
and to the waterfalls to the east. Staff at
the Provincial Tourism Council (% 500 9627;
bilaranpio@yahoo.com; Capitol Bldg; h8am-5pm MonFri) are eager and helpful and the 2nd floor
Maripipi Island
Maripipi
Casibang
Bulalacao
Kawayan
Masagongsong
Tingkasan
Island
Mt Panamo
(1066m)
Mt Camalobagoan
(1048m)
Salangi
Sampao
Tamarindo
Almeria
Capinahan
Island
LEYTE
Ka Ventong
Cave
Higatangan Is
Culaba
Iyusan
Caucab
Dalutan
Island
VISAYAN
SEA
Mt Tres Marias
(1282m)
Bagongbong
Falls
Tabunan
Talahid
Mt Guiauasan
(1106m)
BILIRAN
BILIRAN
Naval
Jubay
Gabibihan
Hot
Springs
Caibiran
Volcano
(1190m)
Locso-on
Rock Sand Bar

Formations
Tomalistis
Caibiran
Falls
Caraycaray
Mainit
Libtong
Villalon
Caibiran
Uson
Mt Suero
(1200m)
Catmon
Mt Lauaan
(1772m)
Casiawan
Falls
Mocalbucal
Casiawan
Talibong
Langao
S
t
This pretty stretch of coast is the only part

of the island that is easy to explore by public
transport.
Ungale
%053
Tucdao
Bilwang
Ginuroan
NORTH OF NAVAL
Tagnocan Is
Marvins James Seaside Inn has the best

restaurant in the area.
Most eateries are on Inocentes St, the
main street of Naval, which leads from the
market, jetty and terminal area. Lambat
Seafood Restaurant and Johntons Restaurant both have good pansit and lomi (noodles) and karaoke.
Tagasipol Is
Eating
Buses and jeepneys make regular daily trips

from Naval north to Kawayan (P15, one
hour), and south and east to Caibiran (P30,
1 hours) via Biliran town. Motorised and
pedal tricycles operate in the towns. The flat
fee for short local trips is P5.
The round-island road is very bumpy,
slow and dusty. Public transport does not run
along the coast road between Kawayan and
Caibiran, or along the cross-country road between Naval and Gabibihan. You can charter a multicab for these stretches for around
P1000 to P1500 per day, or hire a motorcycle
with driver for around P1000 per day.
SAMAR
SEA
Binalayan
Sambawan
Islands
Getting Around
BUS
(924m)
There are regular bus services from Naval

to Ormoc (P100, two hours) and to Tacloban (P120, three hours). Duptours aircon vans run between Naval and Tacloban
(P150, two hours) several times a day.
Philtranco and PP Bus Company buses
leave Naval early each morning for Manila
(P790, 30 hours).
All buses and jeepneys arrive and depart
from a terminal near the embarcadero (waterway landing).
Marvins James Seaside Inn (%500 9171, 0927 528

3492; r from P600; as) By far the best option
in Naval, friendly Marvins is a mustardyellow three-storey modern building on
the water 2km south of town (tricycle
P10). Some of the rooms are awkwardly
shaped but they are clean and comfortable
and have private bathrooms and cable TV.
Theres a homey indoor lounge and dining
area and the annex across the street has a
nice pool (nonguests P20). A breezy patio
overlooks the ocean.
Villa Cecilia (r P800-1000; as) A new complex of concrete bungalows 3km from Naval
(tricycle P10) on the banks of a small river
in the village of Lomboy. Cecilia offers
horseriding and a mini-zoo.
Also recommended in Naval:
Jan Dells Cabin (%500 9338; r with fan from P300)
Naval Institute of Technology (r P300; a)
Danao
Viga
Sleeping
Sulpicio Lines Cagayan Princess boats to

Cebu leave Naval on Wednesday, Friday
and Sunday (P220, 11 hours, 8pm); travel
between Naval and Cebu is faster if you
get a boat to/from Ormoc, and then a bus
to/from Naval. Find the ticketing office at
the back of the Shell station in Naval.
10 km
6 miles
To Calbayog
(Samar)
is given over to an interesting selection of

local artefacts and photos. There are plans
to offer free Internet access here; if not,
Naval has a few Internet cafs. Theres a
PNB and Landbank in Naval. There are no
credit-card facilities.
BOAT
0
0
BILIRAN ISLAND
Balaquid
LEYTE
i
t
To Cebu
Cabucgayan
Biliran
Poro Is
Biliran Bridge
Calubian
To Ormoc
To Ormoc
About 2km beyond Almeria is Agta Beach

Resort (dm with fan P100, r P450; a), home of the
Sabitsana clan, with Spartan dorm beds and
big, good-value, air-con rooms with private
bathroom. Its on a stretch of beach with
swimming at high tide only, and is busy
with locals on the weekend. The resort is
a good base for visiting Dalutan, an island
with white sand and good snorkelling. Hire
a bangka for P50 and paddle yourself across
in 30 minutes.
Bagongbong Falls are a two-hour hike from
Caucab, where the balangay captain will
help you find a guide (P100).
The rice terraces of Sampao, Iyusan and
Salangi are each about 5km off the main road
and youll need to walk in unless you charter
To Ormoc &
Tacloban (Leyte)
Calumbijan
Island
a vehicle. They cant compare to the Banaue

terraces, but theyre quite pretty and worth a
look if you cant get up to northern Luzon.
Theres pool-like swimming at Masagongsong cold spring (child/adult P10/20), and, opposite
the pool, on the main road, is the Estrella
Sunset View (r with air-con P500-600; a), with its
own concrete spring-fed pool (nonguests
P20). Simple food can be ordered.
In Kawayan you can hire a bangka for
around P300 to take you to the island of
Ginuroan. It has a steep and rocky foreshore,
but the offshore coral gardens are good.
You can walk around pretty, undeveloped
Maripipi Island in under a day, or hire a motorcycle (P100 per hour). You can overnight at
the Candol Beach Resort (r P250) on a brown-sand
T H E V I S AYA S
T H E V I S AYA S
364 B I L I R A N I S L A N D N a v a l
T H E V I S AYA S
366 B I L I R A N I S L A N D E a s t & S o u t h o f N a v a l
beach or homestays can be arranged at the

Provincial Tourism Council. The uninhabited Sambawan Islands have white sand and
good snorkelling. You can charter a bangka
to Maripipi (one way P300, 30 minutes) from
Kawayan and there are passenger boats from
Naval (P60, one hour, 10am); the boat leaves
Maripipi at 5am in the other direction.
EAST & SOUTH OF NAVAL

%053
Caibiran Falls is a steep 20-minute hike off

the cross-island road. It is quite undeveloped and, if the waters not flowing too fast,
there are two big swimming holes at its base.
Nearby, Caibiran Volcano, which last erupted
in 1939, can be climbed in a steady 1
hours. Check with the Provincial Tourism
Council for directions to these as they are
not signposted; you will need to charter a
vehicle and guide. The volcano is active, so
get advice before setting out.
Mainit hot spring is a series of small cascades with sitting pools, exposed on a riverbank beside rice fields. Reputed to have
exceptionally sweet water, the Tomalistis Falls
pour from a cliff face and are only accessible by boat. Casiawan Falls (cah-show-won)

367
are worth a visit depending on the amount

of recent rainfall. Its a 20-minute drive on
a track off the south coast road, and then
another 10 minutes by foot.
WEST OF NAVAL
%053
Due west of Naval is Higatangan Island, a

shifting white sandbar good for swimming
and snorkelling, and you can walk to the Ka
Ventong Cave, renowned for the snakes who
call it home. On the western side of the
island, accessible by boat only, is a series of
interesting rock formations with small, sandy
bays between them. Former President Marcos, along with fellow resistance members,
reportedly took refuge on the island in
WWII, and Marcos Hill is named in his
memory.
The only accommodation is Limpiado
Beach Resort (r with fan P150-300), near the sand
bar, with simple rooms, and you have to
bring your own food; electricity stops at
10pm so evenings can be hot without a
breeze. Theres a 10am bangka from Naval
(P30, 45 minutes) daily, and the boats leave
in the other direction at 7am. A one-way
charter costs around P700 to P1000.

366
367
Mindanao & Sulu
At 95,000 sq km, Mindanao is big and bulky. Its an island of contrasts, maybe most readily
felt by journeying from the high-rise downtown of modern Davao to the nearby towering
peak of Mt Apo and the surrounding primitive villages. Volcanic Camiguin Island is an adventurers paradise, and the surf breaks around bucolic Siargao Island are some of the best in
the country. Vast cattle ranches and pineapple and banana plantations on a scale that must
be seen to be believed sit alongside tiny plots managed by struggling farmers. The eastern
coastline is long and remote and the swamps around the Agusan River and Rio Grande de
Mindanao (Pulangi River) valleys offer opportunities for animal and bird-viewing.
Muslims, who have been a minority in Mindanao since the 1950s, are the majority in
only four of the 21 provinces and just 12 sq km of the 90,000 sq km of the island are given
over to the Autonomous Region in Muslim Mindanao (ARMM), an area that includes the
mainland provinces of Lanao del Sur and Maguindanao, and the hundreds of islands of
the Sulu archipelago that stretches towards Malaysia and Indonesia. Predominantly Muslim
areas include Marawi and the area around Lake Lanao, and Cotabato city.
HIGHLIGHTS
Thriving on the gnarly surf break and surfer dude vibe on Siargao (p373) off the northeast
coast of Mindanao
Experiencing the beautiful and volcanic island of Camiguin (p378), an
outdoor-adventurers playground
Climbing Mt Apo (p392) to get as high as you legally can in the
Philippines
Siargao
Camiguin
Visiting Davao (p387), not only the most cosmopolitan city

in Mindanao but also one of the worlds largest
Reaching the end of the road in Zamboanga (p397)
Zamboanga
Celebrating Tboli culture in November with the

people of Lake Sebu (p395)
Getting closer to Borneo than Manila by
visiting the seafaring people of Tawi-Tawi
(p404)
Mt Apo
Davao
Lake Sebu
Tawi-Tawi
MINDANAO & SULU
Mention Mindanao or Sulu to most Filipinos not living in either of these two island provinces and you will see a look of mild befuddlement which quickly turns to genuine surprise
when foreigners say they want to travel there. Because of its now exaggerated reputation
as the wild west of the Philippines, almost everywhere you go will feel as if its off the
beaten track, and the lack of other travellers means a better chance of experiencing Filipino
culture and indigenous peoples unmediated by the tourism industry.
To Manado
(Indonesia)
Glan
Alabel
(Dadiangas)
To Manado
(Indonesia)
SARANGANI General
Santos
Maitum
SOUTH Lake
COTABATO Sebu
Surallah
Isulam
SULTAN
KUDARAT
SEA
Lebak
MAGUINDANAO
SULU
To Sandakan
(Malaysia)
To Palawan
Jolo
Jolo Island
BASILAN
Isabela
Basilan
Island
CELEBES
Santa Cruz
Island
Basilan
Strait
Sacol
Island
SEA
MINDANAO
Gulf
Bolong
SULU
SEA
DAVAO
DEL
SUR
Davao
Gulf
Mati
COMPOSTELA
VALLEY
Samal
Island
Kidapawan
Talayan
ah y
Al alle
V
Manukan
Zamboanga
Balingasag
Jasaan
Baliangao
MISAMIS
ORIENTAL
Baliangao
Wetland El
Park
Plaridel
Salvador
Dapitan
Dipolog
MT APO
NATIONAL
PARK
Tacurong
Lake Digos Talikud
Island
Buluan
Koronadal
(Marbel)
DAVAO
Mabini
Nabunturan
DAVAO
DEL NORTE
Bislig
Bugo
Calamba Oroquieta
Cagayan de Oro
Talacogon
Initao
MISAMIS Burgos
Na-Awan
Malaybalay
OCC.
Jiminez
ZAMBOANGA
AGUSAN
Manticao
Clarin
Mt
DEL NORTE
DEL SUR
Iligan
Sindangan
Kitanglad
Ozamis
Kolambugan
Liloy
Valencia
Tubod
Mt Katatungan
LANAO
Molave
Marawi
Baroy DEL
Lake
NORTE
Pagadian
Lanao BUKIDNON Kibawe
Kabasalan
Kapatagan
Ipil
LANAO
Lapuyan
DEL SUR
Dapusilan
Malabang
Alicia
Bay
NORTH
Tagum
Margosatubig
ZAMBOANGA
COTABATO
DEL SUR
Bongo
Malagos
Island
Sultan Kudarat
Calinan
Olutanga
Cotabato
Mt Apo
Island
(2954m)
Curuan
Moro
Matalam
Gingoog
Butuan
Balingoan
Nasipit
Kinogitan
Bunawan
Agusan Marsh
Wildlife
Sanctuary
Prosperidad
Tangdag
SURIGAO
DEL SUR
Lanuza
Lazi
Siquijor
Island
Dumaguete
CEBU
NEGROS
OCCIDENTAL
SIQUIJOR
BOHOL
SEA
Mambajao
Lake
AGUSAN Mainit
DEL NORTE
Madrid
CAMIGUIN
Camiguin
Island
SURIGAO
DEL
NORTE
Cantilan
Siargao
Island
Dinagat
Island
Placer
Surigao
To Leyte
BOHOL
BOHOL
Tagbilaran
To Cebu
CEBU
NEGROS
ORIENTAL
Basey
NEGROS
Mayo Bay
PHILIPPINE
SEA
100 km
60 miles
To Panay
la
To Luzon
a ng
su
PALAWAN
Z a m bo
in
MINDANAO & SULU
0
0
Pe
n
MINDANAO
Pu
The entire island is outside of the typhoon

belt, but the wet and dry seasons are not
as distinctive in most of Mindanao as they
River
er
Climate
usa
Ag
Riv
territory to the archipelago by taking advantage of its historical independence, which

was causing so much conflict. They made a
bid to annex Sabah, a part of North Borneo
recently incorporated into Malaysia. After
an unrealistic proposal to include the region
in a superconfederacy called Maphilindo fell
flat, Marcos initiated a programme to train
Muslim commandos from Mindanao with
vague plans to promote unrest in Sabah, but
the secret was exposed and ended with most
of the guerrilla recruits being killed under
mysterious circumstances.
In 1976 an agreement was struck between
one of the rebel groups, the Moro Islamic
National Liberation Front (MNLF), and
the government established the ARMM; in
1996 the MNLF was legitimised as a political
group by Manila. Other groups didnt agree
that limited autonomy within a federalised
system was adequate when for all practical
purposes most significant issues are resolved
in Manila, and the Moro Islamic Liberation
Front (MILF), which is now in peace talks
with the government, broke away from the
MNLF in 1978. The most radical and threatening of the groups is the Abu Sayaf, a small
group of former MILF members dissatisfied
with the drift towards compromise; they
continue to call for a separate Islamic state
in the southern Philippines.
Successive government regimes have tried
to assert their control through different
means; Marcos tried through a combination
of military action and amnesty offers but it
was talks between Cory Aquino and Nur
Misuari, the founder of the MNLF, which finally led to a reduction in violence in the late
80s. Unfortunately, most of the outstanding
issues were never resolved and in the late
90s and early 2000s the violence resumed.
In August of 2005 Zaldy Ampatuan was
elected the new governor of the ARMM; he
is the first leader not to be a member of a
rebel group. It was enough to provide the
optimistic with hope that the conflict could
be brought to an end. Since the late 1960s
about 120,000 people have died as a result of
the conflict between government troops and
rebel groups.
M I N D A N A O & S U LU M i n d a n a o 369
MINDANAO & SULU
Mindanaos history diverged early on from

that of the rest of the Philippines simply
because of geography, more specifically
its proximity to centres of Arab influence.
Islam was introduced in the Sulu archipelago in the early 1300s, and was soon after
brought to Cotobato and the Lanao area.
Afterwards it was united by the sultanate
under a supreme council and most of the
population converted to Islam. When the
Spaniards arrived in 1527, their dominance
was stymied by an already entrenched and
semi-organised power, and they were only
able to establish outposts in northern
Mindanao and Zamboanga.
It was only in the middle of the 19th century that the Spaniards, with the advantages
of superior firearms and steam power, were
able to make substantial inroads in Mindanao and assert their sovereignty. The US
became the next colonial power in 1898,
but its presence in Mindanao wasnt felt for
years and it wasnt until a decade or so later
that the province was formally incorporated
as an administrative region under the suzerainty of the government in Manila.
From the beginning the rights of tribal
minority groups and traditional property
rights were violated. The peoples of Mindanao were economically and demographically threatened by the influx of Christian
Filipinos from the north, who were encouraged by the government to settle in less
populated Mindanao. Some argue that the
policy simply opened up a sparsely populated region to immigration and created a
more diverse ethnic mix.
Armed resistance developed in the late
1960s as a response to what some claimed
was the occupation and annexation of their
homeland. Soon after, large multinational
agricultural companies entered the region
en masse, invariably impacting small-scale
farming and traditional ways of life regardless of ethnicity or religion. Less militant
groups argue that the crux of this armed
conflict is not simply the inevitable result of
Muslim and Christian populations living as
neighbours but the result of the exploitation
of the islands resources without insuring
that the people are fairly compensated or see
the benefits of development.
In the late 60s, Presidents Macapagal and
Marcos both hoped to add a large chunk of
Mindanao
History
an
g
368 M I N D A N A O & S U LU H i s t o r y
370 M I N D A N A O & S U LU N a t i o n a l Pa r k s
are in other parts of the country such as the

Visayas. Theres hot and humid weather
throughout the year with consistent rainfall, especially from May to October. In
northern Mindanao the dry season is from
November to April and temperatures at
night can get downright cold in mountainous areas like Mt Apo.
The highest mountain in the Philippines is
Mindanaos Mt Apo (p392) in a national
park on the border of Davao del Sur and
Cotabato provinces. Mt Malindang National
Park (p401) is a forested region near Ozamis
on the Zamboanga Peninsula, consisting of
four main peaks, gorges, grasslands, trekking, birding, and is the tribal homeland
of the Subanon people. The Agusan Marsh
Wildlife Sanctuary (p378) is the largest
freshwater marsh in the Philippines.

Despite a lull in the violence at the time of
research and a subdued sense of optimism
because of a renewal of peace talks between
the Arroyo administration and leaders of
the MILF, incidents still do occur and the
situation could flare up at any time. There
are breakaway elements of both the MILF
and the MNLF that are still fighting for an
Islamic state in the southern Philippines
and the latter has issued threats against US
and Western interests in the region. From
2001 to 2003 there were over 500 incidents of armed conflict between government forces and rebel groups every year;
the number dropped precipitously in 2004
and 2005. The government also claims that
Jemaah Islamiyah, an Indonesia-based organisation, infiltrated Abu Sayyaf and other
separatist groups and is using remote parts
of Mindanao to train dozens of recruits.
Embassies of many nations, including
the US, Britain and Australia, are actively
discouraging travel to Mindanao and the
Sulu archipelago. Attacks against transportation and commercial targets (buses, ferries, shopping malls etc) have resulted in
significant loss of life. Miasmis Occidental
is considered risky, especially the jungles
around Maguindanao. In the Sulu group
of islands, only Tawi-Tawi is considered
safe; the island of Jolo is a no-go zone.
In March 2002, American and Philippine
armed forces began operations against Abu

Sayyaf on Basilan Island off the coast of
Zamboanga. Check with your embassy, or
better yet with Filipinos who know specific
parts of Mindanao well, before venturing
into any potentially dangerous areas.
All of these caveats aside, you are more
likely to be exposed to violence in any large
Western city than you are while travelling
in the region. Any active rebellion is primarily contained to Jolo, Basilan and pockets
of the jungle in Mindanao, especially the
area between Cotabato and Lake Lanao and
isolated portions of the Zamboanga Peninsula. More widespread fighting did occur in
Sulu in February 2005 between government
forces and MNLF-related groups, leaving
100 people dead. At the same time, the
MILF began to allow government troops
to operate in areas considered under their
control, and even actively participated in
the hunt for Abu Sayaf members. Northern
Mindanao, including the islands of Siargao
and Camiguin, are peaceful and at least as
far as the last several years are concerned
should probably be considered a separate
region, mostly excluded from the troubles
elsewhere.
However in the interests of full disclosure
and to allow you make your own informed
decision regarding travel in the area, the
following is a list of some of the more highprofile attacks in the previous several years:
in February 2000 a bomb planted on an
interisland ferry that was about to dock in
Ozamis killed at least 45 people; a bombing at a bus terminal in Surigao in 2000
killed four; in April 2002 at least 15 people
were killed in a blast in a shopping mall in
General Santos city; the March and April
2003 bombings in Davao, at the wharf and
airport, killed dozens; a bombing in 2003 in
a shopping mall in Zamboanga city killed
three; a December 2004 bomb at the public market in General Santos killed 15; a
February 2005 bombing killed three and
wounded dozens in General Santos, and
a same-day bombing at a bus terminal in
Davao wounded several; and there were two
bombings in downtown Zamboanga in August 2005 in which no-one was killed but
more than two dozen were injured.
As an ironic rebuke to the national government in Manila, at the height of impeachment and coup talk in 2004, some
N O R T H E R N M I N D A N A O S u r i g a o 371
political leaders in Mindanao said they

would secede from the rest of the country if the instability in Manila continued.
Asking Filipinos anywhere outside of Mindanao about advice regarding travel in the
region will usually elicit the same exaggerated reaction in which youre made to think
that only crazy people would even consider
holidaying there. Take all of this with a large
grain of salt. James Hamilton-Paterson, in
his book Americas Boy: A Century of Colonialism in the Philippines, says this reaction
is at least in part due to centuries of rhetoric
in which all Islam was cast as the natural
enemy of Christian Filipinos and all of the
south was seen as the refuge of pirates, who
once did ravage shipping and seaside communities further north.
NORTHERN MINDANAO
%086 / pop 118,534
There are flights from Manila to Butuan,

Cagayan de Oro, Cotabato, Davao, Dipolog,
General Santos and Zamboanga; from Cebu
to Davao, General Santos and Zamboanga;
and from Panay to Davao. Bouraq Airlines
and Air Philippines fly between Davao and
Manado in Indonesia and South Phoenix
Airlines between Zamboanga and Kota
Kinabalu, Malaysia. Silk Air flies from Singapore to Davao via Cebu City.
You can get to Mindanao by boat from
Bohol, Cebu, Leyte, Luzon, Manila, Negros,
Palawan, Panay and Siquijor in the Philippines, and directly from Indonesia, Malaysia
and Singapore. Specific travel information
is given under the relevant destinations in
this chapter, but transport schedules and
prices should be taken as guidelines only.
Believe it or not, its even possible to get to
Mindanao by bus, but the trip involves multiple ferry transfers, frequent stops and the
chance that drivers on this seemingly endless route arent as alert as youd like them
to be.
Getting Around
Northern Mindanao is easily traversed by
buses and the new highway linking Cagayan de Oro and Davao provides an inexpensive and convenient way to reach the
south instead of the more expensive option
of flying. Most people choose not to travel
overland on the Zamboanga Peninsula and
fly (or less commonly take a boat) to Zamboanga city.
Relatively untouched by the conflict that

periodically afflicts other parts of Mindanao,
this stretch of coastline from Surigao and
the islands off the northeast tip to Cagayan
de Oro sees more foreign tourists than the
Zamboanga Peninsula and southern Mindanao. Most visit the beautiful islands of
Siargao and Camiguin; the latter is close
enough to the southern Visayas that they
are visible on clear days. The major cities of
Cagayan de Oro and Butuan arent so appealing in their own right but are necessary
stopovers when visiting the offshore islands.
Fewer people travel west of Cagayan.
SURIGAO
Unless you fly directly to Siargao Island you
will have to transit here in the capital of
Surigao del Norte province. Surigao is an
unremarkable little city, with not much to
hold a travellers interest. If you do overnight here, what little activity there is centres around the town plaza and the people
are likely to be curious and friendly.
Attractions close by include: Silop Cave,
7km away, with its 12 entrances leading to
a big central chamber; Day-asin, a floating
village, 5km from the city; and Mati, to the
south, where the Mamanwas people have
created a village to showcase their culture.
There are OK beaches nearby.
Information
There are several Internet cafs around the
plaza including Caf Conrado (h8am-midnight;
per hr P20), which is easily the most comfortable of the lot.
Equitable PCI Bank (San Nicolas St), Metrobank (Borromeo St) and Landbank (Borromeo St) have ATMs
and change US dollars. PNB (Philippine National Bank) and BPI (Bank of the Philippine
Islands) have branches in Rizal St.
For information about travel elsewhere in
the region, the provincial Department of Tourism (DOT; Rizal St) is located by the city grandstand.
Sleeping
Lemondee Hotel (%232 7334; Borromeo St; r with fan
P200, s/d with air-con P400/500) This hotel is a good
deal for a night or two. Its not the most
MINDANAO & SULU
MINDANAO & SULU
National Parks
372 N O R T H E R N M I N D A N A O S u r i g a o
Surigao
0
0
SURIGAO
B
er
20
9
Ar
ma
tS
Pa
o St
Kaim
al S
t
as S
Riz
Grandstand
ge
ssa
a St
Gemin
es St
oS
16
Magallan
St
rcis
Public
Market
tua
Borja
8
t
Na
St
na
las S
t
Church
Am
at
S
que
Vas
os S
rig
Su
Rox
s St
meo
Nico
Hi
MINDANAO & SULU
zale
San
13
6
Gon
Borro
Plaza
St
Na
al
Riz
rro
va
14
St
Provincial
Hospital
To Gateway Hotel
(3km); Bus Terminal
(4km); Airport (5km);
Day-asin (5km);
Silop Cave (7km)
rro
Bo
St
me
ina
10
ro
St
TRANSPORT
Boats to Siargo Island.......................19 D4
Philippine Airlines Office...................20 B1
Philippine Port Authority..................21 D4
o
me
rro
Bo

AIR
var
SLEEPING
Garcia Hotel.......................................8 B2
Lemondee Hotel.................................9 C2
Tavern Hotel.................................... 10 D3
t
sS
eye
PR
Na
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

City Hall..............................................7 B1
t
EATING
aS
ev
Barbecue Stalls.................................
Nu11 D4
Caf Conrado...................................12 B1
Chowking.........................................13 B1
Frank Lloyd Jazz Bar.........................14 C3
Fruit Stalls.........................................15 B1
Greenwich.....................................(see 13)
JC Seafoods.....................................16 C2
Jollibee..............................................17 B1
Marvs Garden Grill &
Restaurant...................................18 B1
INFORMATION
BPI......................................................1 B2
Department of Tourism.......................2 B2
Equitable PCI Bank..............................3 B1
Ferry tickets for Siargao......................4 C4
Landbank............................................5 B1
Metrobank.......................................(see 5)
PNB....................................................6 B2
oS
rcis
Na
Esp
oS
modern paintings, reggae music and floor

cushions, feels like a remarkable find for this
city. The bohemian flavour is served with
burgers, sandwiches, good coffee drinks and
the Internet.
Marvs Garden Grill & Restaurant (%826 2003;
barbecue P30; h9am-midnight) Live music and
barbecue, always a heady combination but
even more so when there isnt much else
going on. Marvs, an outdoor pavilion next
to the City Hall, gets the show started every
night after 9pm. Dishes like calamari (P90)
are also on the menu.
Frank Lloyd Jazz Bar (Borromeo St; dishes P160;
a) Frank Lloyd looks like a restaurant
that is it has white tablecloths though
the Filipino food is unremarkable. Music is
sometimes on.
JC Seafoods (Mama Aidas Seafood Grill; %826 0364;
dishes P40; a) A modest little family-run place,
JCs has supervalue barbecue meals (P30)
and a daily happy hour from 5pm to 8pm.
Jollibee, Chowking and Greenwich are
clustered on the west side of the plaza and
there are masses of barbecue stalls along the
wharf. Fruit stalls are opposite the cinemas
on San Nicolas St.
St
11
21
Wharf
19
Bilanbilan Bay
Asian Spirit (%826 1571) has daily flights to

Manila (1 hours) and flights to Cebu (40
minutes) several days a week. Philippine
Airlines has an office in Borromeo St next
to Caf Conrado. Catch a taxi or tricycle to
the airport, 5km west of the town centre.
BOAT
cheery place from the outside (or, for that

matter, the inside), but the simple, clean
rooms have cable TV and modern bathrooms plus the occasional mouse. Ask for a
room at the back, off the noisy main road.
Tavern Hotel (%231 7300; www.surigaoislands.com
/tavernhotel; Borromeo St; r from P875) The once and
probably future classiest place in Surigao,
this hotel on the way to the ferry terminal for
Siargao boats was under renovation at the
time of research. Judging by a few rooms yet
to go under the knife, once the work is completed, rooms here will likely be the nicest
around. Some have sea views and the Marco
Polo bar and restaurant overlooks the sea.
Gateway Hotel (%826 1283; fax 826 1285; r from
P900; ai) The chandelier in the atrium
lobby of this three-storey building of concrete and reflecting glass, about 3km from
the wharf along the airport road, signals
the Gateways pretensions to luxury. The
carpets in the large rooms are worn and not
as well maintained as youd expect. It has a
good restaurant (meals around P200).
Garcia Hotel (%231 7700; San Nicolas St; r with fan
P350, s/d with air-con P400/600) Best considered a
last resort, the basic Garcia is only a block
from the town plaza. Cheaper fan rooms
have shared bathrooms.
Eating
Caf Conrado (Borromeo St; sandwiches P35; h8ammidnight; ai) The place to hang out in
Surigao, Caf Conrado, with its colourful,
Boats to Siargao (P220, three hours) and

Dinagat depart from the wharf a little over
1km south of the plaza. Tickets should be
purchased in advance from the ticket booth
serving both Fortune Jet and Aska Queen
(and whatever other company may be in
operation at the time) across the street.
Schedules are unreliable, though there
should be a morning and early-afternoon
departure; avoid Sunday travel, as cancellations are more likely.
Sulpicio Lines runs a weekly boat to
Davao.
For Manila, SuperFerry leaves every
Wednesday (P2100, 31 hours), while Cebu
Lines and Sulpicio Lines have a regular
weekly service.
N O R T H E R N M I N D A N A O S i a r g a o 373
For Cebu City, Trans Asia has boats

leaving twice weekly; Cokaliong Lines has
regular trips three times weekly; and Sulpicio Lines also makes the trip three times
a week.
There are a few daily departures for Liloan (P120, four hours), on the southern
coast of Leyte.
BUS
The bus terminal is about 5km out of town

towards the airport. Air-con and ordinary
Batchelor Express buses run throughout
the day to Butuan (P150, two hours) and
Cagayan de Oro (P300, six hours), along
the west coast; to Davao (P485, 11 hours) in
the south; and to Tandag (P126, six hours)
in the east.
SIARGAO
After several days of either riding the waves
or simply watching others take them on,
your mission to decompress and take it easy
accomplished, its still difficult to pack up
and leave. Siargao (shar-gao) is the kind
of place that seems to give off a magnetic
force, transforming weekend-long stays
into weeks or for the handful of foreign
surfing lifers now calling the island home,
forever. Time spent here makes you ask the
existential question, Why cant I do this
every day for the rest of my life?
Until recently, when Siargao was plucked
from relative obscurity by officials hoping
to make it one of the shining stars in the
Philippines tourism firmament, the only
visitors were Filipino day-trippers and seriously laid-back and committed Aussie
and American surfers. Land values have
gone up tenfold in the last ten years and
the Cloud Nine surf break is now on the
international surfing trail map. Siargao has
plenty of natural attractions for nonsurfers
too: beaches and rock pools, extensive mangrove swamps, inland forest and waterfalls.
Wildlife includes tarsiers, flying lemurs
and monitor lizards. Attractive islands
are nearby, especially Bucas Grande with
Sohoton Cave. This is not the island for
people seeking an active nightlife, but the
resorts are enough for a quiet sunset drink
or two.
The Siargao Cup surfing competition, one of
the largest international sporting events in
the country, is held in late September or
MINDANAO & SULU
Burg
ao
s St
7
15 17
Market
Post Office
18
5
12
Riv
300 m
0.2 miles
General Luna
early October every year. Surfing can be

good from April to October and is great
on the northwest coast during the northeast monsoon, but as with many places in
the Philippines, surf cant be guaranteed.
Surfboard rentals can be found in resorts
around the island. Booties are highly recommended to protect your feet since the
break is along a reef and not the beach.
Deep caves like the Blue Cathedral and
strong currents mean experienced divers
only for diving trips try the bootstrap Siargao Island Diving Inc on General Luna St, or
go to the Pansukian Tropical Resort (right).
The port is in the main township of Dapa.
On arrival youll probably want to head
straight over towards General Luna (known
locally as GL) and Cloud Nine, where the
low-key beach resorts are located.
Wherever you are on the island, room
rates increase during surfing tournaments
and Holy Week. There are no banks and
only two places to access the Internet:
Patricks on the Beach (opposite) near GL
and the Siargao Institute of Technology (per hr
P30; h8am-8pm) in Dapa.
pop 12,347
More foreign visitors choose to stay at one

of the resorts on Cloud Nine than in General Luna (or GL), a small township on the
southeast coast. But for what its worth GL
has a few eateries and bars, and some of the
resorts in the area have beachfront.
There are several breaks south of GL
reached by bangka including a few around
offshore islands. A river perfect for swimming during high tide is near the village of
Union between GL and Cloud Nine.
SLEEPING & EATING
Some of the earliest established resorts on

Siargao are to the south of the township.
Theyre quite popular with the locals, drawing large groups of students and budget
conventioneers.
Pansukian Tropical Resort (%0918 903 9055, in
Cebu 32 234 1282; www.pansukian.com; r US$200) This
architecturally inspired five-star resort is a
couple of kilometres further along the coast.
The nine villas are stylish and luxurious but
in a low-key way. Rates include all meals,
0
0
AROUND SURIGAO
20 km
12 miles
Su
Alegria
ao
rig
Unib Hagakak
Island Island
Dinagat
Island
Burgos
ait
Str
Sibanag
Island
Sta Monica
Dinagat Sound
Capaquian
Island
West Capaquian Island
Dinagat
Awasan
Island
Poneas
Island
Sumilon
Sibale
Island
Island
Danaon
Island
To Luzon;
Bridge
Hikdop
Cebu
Basul Island
Nonoc
Hanigad
Island
Island
Island
Hi
Pa natu
Lipata
Talisay
ssa an Nonoc
ge
Raza
Island
Surigao
Bayagnan
Island
San
Francisco
Placer
Pilar
Del Carmen
Siargao
Island
Cloud Nine
which tend towards the spectacular, and

use of snorkelling equipment, windsurfing
boards and kayaks.
Cherinicole Resort (%0918 244 4407; www.cherini
coleresort.com; cottages from P1400; as) Cherinicoles deluxe cottages have great ocean
views, air-con and TV; other attached nipa
huts are more ordinary though all are well
maintained. Theres a bar, restaurant, games
room and plans for a pool in the future.
JadeStar Beach Resort (%0919 234 4367; r with
fan/air-con from P600/1000) Concrete or thatched,
the cottages at this resort have nice little
touches like bright curtains, and all have
private porches.
Pansangan Beach Resort (r P500) Although
not directly on the beach, this small resort, 200m from Cherinicole, is owned by
a lovely elderly couple, and is an easy walk
into General Luna.
Other places to eat are Maridyls Eatery
on the main street or at The Pub near the
school.
Cloud Nine
The picturesque rickety wood pavilion running out to the surf break is Cloud Nine.
Groups of young Filipinos sporting the international signifiers of surfer dudes Billabong
boards, Quicksilver shorts and the lingo to
match hang out here. There are several
other breaks for the experienced accessible by
bangka, including Rock Island, visible from the
Cloud Nine beach, and at least a dozen good
beaches are within an hour by boat or road.
The newer resorts and surf camps here are
mostly run by some seriously relaxed expat
Australians. All resorts have big bamboo pavilions for hanging out over the water.
General Luna (GL)

Dapa
Hinituan
Island
Talavera
Island
Sohoton
Cave
SURIGAO
DEL NORTE
Masapelid
Island
Bucas
Grande
Island
Badas
Malimono
San Isidro
PACIFIC
OCEAN
Halian
Island
Mahaba
Island
Sison
Kangbangyo
Island
Cagdianao
San Benito
Socorro
Bacuag
Gigaquit
Lapinigan
Island
Hi
tu
an
Pa
ge
To Butuan (70km);
Cagayan de Oro
(150km); Davao
(220km)
Casulian
Island
Anahawan
Island
La Janasa
Island
Mamon
Island
Antokon
Island
na
ssa
MINDANAO
Guyam
Island
Union
Dako
Island
Union Bay
East Bucas
Grande Island
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
All the resorts here can help organise day

tours and boat trips. A half-day trip visiting
the Guyam, Dahao and Naked Islands costs
around P1200 for four to six people. Contact Ross Robinson (%0919 501 0101), a genial
and laid-back Aussie for surf lessons; he can
put you in touch with local Filipino hotshots
as well. Magapunko, a superclean swimming
hole at low tide, is only a half-hour boat ride
(per boat P800) from Cloud Nine.
SLEEPING & EATING
Sagana Beach Resort (%0919 809 5769; www.cloud9

surf.com; r US$50; s) The Sagana resort may not
N O R T H E R N M I N D A N A O S i a r g a o 375
be as exclusive as the Pansukian but the six

Balinese-inspired and beautifully designed
cottages are as much luxury as most people
need. Jerry Degan, one of the owners, is a
fount of information. It also has some of
the best food on the island though its generally reserved only for guests; the creative
menu changes daily, but is generally a mix
of Asian fusion and European dishes (meals
P400). Theres a saltwater pool.
Cloud 9 Resort (cottages P400-800) Next door
to Sagana, Australian-owned Cloud 9 has
several basic cottages with private porches
set in a nicely landscaped garden facing the
beach and surf break. Theres a pleasant
open-air restaurant, though management
and service is indifferent.
Jungle Reef Resort (%0919 809 5774; r P250-500)
The cottages at the Jungle Reef are similar
in quality to Cloud 9 though the location
isnt as fortunate.
Patricks on the Beach (%0918 725 7728; www
.patricksonthebeach.com; r from P1100; i ) While
Patricks is situated on a nice spot on the
beach and can arrange any and all boat
trips, the cottages with mismatched furniture, matted bamboo walls and toilets
without seats, are a disappointment. It also
changes money, accepts most credit cards
and has Internet access (h7am-9pm; per hr P50)
available to nonguests as well.
Its easy to get a motorbike from the wharf

at Dapa (P150) or GL (P30) directly to any
of the resorts at Cloud Nine, though the
road turns to dirt past GL.
Pilar & Burgos

Barangay Pilar is largely built on stilts over
mangrove flats; to visit you can hire a pumpboat from Cloud Nine or rent a motorcycle
(P500 return) and go yourself. Blue Cathedral
is a dive site off the coast.
You can take a motorcycle around the
island and up to Burgos, a lovely little town
with a pretty beach on the northeast coast.
Islands near Siargao

Just off the southern section of Siargao are the
tiny white-sand-and-palm islet of Guyam (Gilligans Island; pumpboat from GL P800); the bigger Dako
(pumpboat from GL P1000) with its beautiful beach,
snorkelling and diving; and Bucas Grande, with
Sohoton Cave, not to be confused with the park
MINDANAO & SULU
MINDANAO & SULU
374 N O R T H E R N M I N D A N A O S i a r g a o
Around Surigao
EATING
Big Bowl
Restaurant............(see 7)
Chowking..................13 B4
Greenwich.................14 B4
Jollibee...................... 15 A4
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
New Narra
Diocesan Ecclesiastical
Restaurant.............16 B4
Museum ...............(see 6)
St Joseph Cathedral..... 6 A4
TRANSPORT
Negros Navigation
SLEEPING
Agent....................17 A3
Almont Hotel...............7 B4
Butuan Luxury Hotel...8 A3 PAL Agent.................18 A3
Embassy Hotel.............9 A4 WG&A Shipping Lines
Agent....................19 B3
Emerald Villa Hotel....10 A3
Montilla St
To Bus
Terminal
(5km)
Rosales St
T Calo St
16
Rizal
Park
3
J C Aquino St
13
6
14
San Jos St
M M Calo St
Urios
College
St
St
San Francisco
15
R D Calo St
Burgos St
AD Curato
St
ena St
Lopez Ja
17
E Luna
Montilla Blvd
11
4
Villanueva St
19
10
ve
18
Ri
for the airline.
an
Festivals & Events
us
BPI (Montilla Blvd) Changes US dollars and has an ATM.

Philippine Airlines (PAL; Villanueva St) An agency office
12
%085 / pop 267,280
Information
Post
Office
a quiet garden of lily ponds; take a picnic

and enjoy the surroundings.
Towards the airport, at barangay Libertad,
is the Balangay Shrine Museum (h8.30am-4.30pm
Mon-Sat), where the remains of the several
boats discovered are on display, along with
coffin burials. The word barangay in fact
derives from balangay, as the boats were
big enough to move whole communities of
settlers in one journey. A tricycle (per hour
P100) will take you to the discovery site; the
ride out here is worthwhile in itself.
There is a Diocesan Ecclesiastical Museum
(h6am-8pm; admission free), the only one in
Mindanao, at the convent of St Joseph Cathedral (E Luna St). It commemorates missionary
work in the region. Butuan, like Limasawa
in Leyte, claims the honour of the first mass
held by Magellan on Philippine soil at nearby
Magallanes; a memorial marks the spot.
To
Magallanes (10km);
MJ Santos
Surigao (70km);
Hospital
Davao (270km)
To Almont Inland
Pilar
Police Del
St
Resort (4km); Gaisano
Station
Mall (4km); Airport
(10km); Balangay
Shrine Museum (12km) To Roldan's Eat All You Can (100m);
Butuan Regional Museum (6km);
Nasipit (18km); Balingoan; Cagayan
PNB (Montilla Blvd) Changes US dollars and has an ATM.

Rocks Net Caf (Montilla Blvd) One of a bunch of
Internet cafs on Montilla Blvd.
Tourist Office (h9am-7pm) On the southeast corner

of Rizal Park, has good maps of the city and a small
souvenir shop selling locally made crafts.
Vivo Internet Cafe (T Calo St; h8am-10pm) Near
the river.
WG&A Shipping Lines (Lopez Jaena St) An agency
office.
World Net Caf (Montilla Blvd; h9am-11pm)
Sights & Activities

About 6km or so north of the town centre, the Butuan Regional Museum (%342 5328;
h9am-noon & 1-4.30pm Mon-Sat; admission P15) has
a small but excellent collection. It stands in
Balangay Festival runs the entire month of

May. It honours St Joseph, the patron saint
of Butuan, and involves parades, sporting
events and cultural shows.
Sleeping
Almont Hotel (%341 5010; almont@skyinet.net; San Jose
St, Rizal Park; s/d P850/1000; a) This is the best
choice in the city centre; reservations are recommended since its often booked. Rooms
are modern, clean and well kept. Theres free
airport transfer, breakfast at the attached Big
Bowl restaurant and, strangely enough, complimentary pressing of one suit.
Almont Inland Resort (% 342 7414; almont@
pldtdsl.net; JC Aquino Ave; r P2500; sa) Though
the rooms arent especially good value, this
resort just west of Gaisano mall is a refuge
from the smog and noise of the city. The
swimming pool and open-air restaurant and
bar are the best places to while away a day
in Butuan even if the landscaping could use
some work. Its a large complex/convention
centre and the service is professional. Complimentary breakfast and airport transfer.
Royal Plaza Hotel (T Calo St; r from P750; a) Rooms
here are large, so big in fact that the images
from the small TV are difficult to make out
from the beds. Its a nice problem to have
though and the front desk staff is helpful.
Embassy Hotel (%342 5883; Montilla Blvd; s/d
with air-con P500/600) On the main northsouth
thoroughfare lined with Internet cafs,
MINDANAO & SULU
B
Imperial Hotel............11 A3
Royal Plaza Hotel......12 A3
Ag
Jeepneys run from Dapa to GL (P10, one

hour). Alternatively you can hire a motorcycle and driver to take you there (P100,
30 minutes). The going rate for motorcycle
hire is around P300 for half a day to P800
for the day depending on your destination.
These motorcycles are big enough to seat
large families at one hit and are known locally as hubel-hubel.
A
INFORMATION
Bank of the Philippine Islands
(BPI)........................ 1 A4
Rocks Net Caf........... 2 A4
Tourist Office..............3 B4
Vivo Internet Cafe....... 4 A3
World Net Caf........... 5 A4
BUTUAN
Butuans favourable location sprawled
along the banks of the Agusan River 9km
south of the northern coast is mooted by
the intensely traffic-clogged streets, which
are impressive even by Filipino standards.
It is, however, a logical stop if youre travelling between the islands of Siargao and
Camiguin, and the city, which has been
a major port to a greater or lesser degree
since at least the 4th century, boasts several
important historical sites.
Widely recognised as the earliest known
place of settlement and sea trade in the
Philippines, by the 11th century Butuan
was the commercial and trade centre of
the country. In 1976 the oldest boat in the
Philippines was discovered here a carefully crafted balangay (sea-going outrigger)
that has been carbon-dated to AD 320. This
find, along with discoveries of extensive
wooden coffins of tribal peoples who practised skull deformation, has made Butuan a
centre of archaeological and ethnographical
importance.
200 m
0.1 miles
Getting Around
Though its much larger than Siargao and

closer to the mainland, the island of Dinagat (nah-gat) sees few visitors, primarily
because accommodation is very limited.
However, the rugged and wild coastline is
certainly striking enough to warrant more
attention. The island is home to several
fishing communities and the northwest
coast is especially picturesque featuring
jungle-clad karst formations jutting up out
of turquoise waters. Its possible to explore
the island as an (expensive) package tour
with Pansukian Tropical Resort (p374) on
Siargao; otherwise you can try your luck hiring a private pumpboat or taking the daily
public pumpboat (P150, three hours), which
leaves from pier 2 in Surigao at noon note,
however, that it returns from Loretto town
on Dinagat daily at 5am, which means you
must spend the night. A few basic huts on
the beach are available at Bahay Turista.
0
0
BUTUAN
Av
SEAIR has a flight from Cebu to Siargao

every Tuesday and Saturday (P3700, 40
minutes), and in the opposite direction on
the same day.
Siargao is serviced by Fortune Jet and
Aska Queen boats every morning and early
afternoon (P220, three hours) from Surigao. Fortune Jet boats are generally more
comfortable. Check times at the wharf, as
schedules can change or boats may be out
of service. The same boats return to Dapa
on Siargao daily.
If youre encamped out around Cloud
Nine its a good idea to book your return
ticket a day in advance. You can ask a motorcycle driver to do this for P100.
%085 / pop 10,000
N O R T H E R N M I N D A N A O B u t u a n 377
res
DINAGAT
Butuan
Flo
of the same name in southern Samar. This

inland lake with all kinds of weird marine
creatures and nonstinging jellyfish has Chocolate Hillslike mounds rising like the humps
of an underwater monster and is accessible
only during low tide. An all-day trip from GL
or Cloud Nine, arranged through one of the
resorts, costs from around P2000.
You can take a boat around to the mangrove swamps of Caob on the island of
Kangbangyo and look for crocodiles though
youd have better luck stopping by the DNR
office in Del Carmen which usually keeps a
few in a cage you can hire a bangka from
Del Carmen for around P200, depending
on how deep you want to go into the mangroves and how long you want to stay out.
There are surf breaks around La Janosa and
Mamon Islands and its possible to paddle a
surfboard between the two. You can spend
the night at Jerrys on the Beach, a very
primitive resort on La Janosa Island with a
couple of rooms. To get here you can hire a
bangka from the pier at GL. Prices depend
on which islands you visit and how long
you want to stay.
rf
Wha
MINDANAO & SULU
376 N O R T H E R N M I N D A N A O D i n a g a t
taurant on the ground floor of the Almont

Hotel is the best place to eat in the city centre.
Breakfast is served most of the day and the
menu has a wide range of choices from European mains like pastas (P130) to rice and
noodle dishes (P125).
New Narra Restaurant (E Luna St), around the
corner from Rizal Park and Roldans Eat All
You Can (Montilla Blvd) have good Filipino food.
Theres a Jollibee, Chowking and Greenwich around Rizal Park, and Gaisano Mall, a
few kilometres west of the city centre on Jose
C Aquino Ave, has a number of fast-food
joints. There are several eateries across the
street around the Lynzee Bowling Centre.

AIR
The airport is 10km west of the city centre.

Cebu Pacific Air flies from Manila to Butuan (P3200, 1 hours) and back daily.
BOAT
Butuans main port area is at Nasipit, about

10km west of town. Jeepneys run between
Nasipit and Butuan (30 minutes).
SuperFerry has boats running twice a
week between Manila and Nasipit (P2300,
36 hours). The Negros Navigation boat to
Manila runs once a week. Its agent has an
office on Lopez Jaena St.
Cebu Ferries has boats to Jagna on Bohol
once a week. For Cebu, SuperFerry has boats
twice weekly.
Negros Navigation has a weekly service
to Negros. It also has boats going via Cebu
to Palawan once a week.
BUS
The bus terminal is about 1km from the city

centre. There are frequent services between
BALINGOAN
pop 8197
About two-thirds of the way from Butuan,

heading west towards Cagayan de Oro, this
is the only port serving Camiguin Island by
ferry. Boats run hourly from early morning
to around 4.30pm (P70, one hour).
Regular bus and jeepney services run between Balingoan and Cagayan de Oro (P85,
2 hours) and Butuan (P80, two hours).
The waters surrounding Camiguin are good

for diving, especially for beginners who can
see interesting rock formations in shallow waters, a result of the lava flow from
Hibok-Hiboks previous eruptions. There
are over 10 sites of note, including Jigdup
Reef, with a coral-covered slope and wall to
explore, and Old Volcano, an eerie moonscape of sunken lava flows. The best diving is probably off White Island, a tiny islet
off Agoho. Diving can be arranged through
Camiguin Action Geckos (%387 1266; www.camiguin
action.com), located on the beach at Agoho
Orientation & Information

Mambajao (mah-bow-ha) is the capital of
Camiguin, about half an hours ride from
the port at Benoni. There are shops, a market, government buildings and a few places
to stay here, but most visitors prefer to stay
closer to the northern beaches.
Theres a modern Internet caf (h7am11pm; per hr P30) in Mambajao down by the
waterfront.
CAMIGUIN
A
MINDANAO
Kuguita
Agoho
12
8
6
11
13
SEA
10
Yumbing
Naasag
Mambajao
2
Tagdo
3
1
Old Camiguin
Volcano
pop 70,000
Anito
Esperanza
10 km
6 miles
Jigdup
Reef
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

Ardent Hot Springs...........................1 B2
Camiguin Action Geckos...................2 B1
Johnny's Dive N Fun....................(see 13)
Philippine Institute of Volcanology &
Seismology (Philvolcs) Station.......3 B1
Santo Nio Cold Spring....................4 B3
Tangub Hot Spring...........................5 A1
Katibawasan
Falls
Tupsan
Hibok-Hibok
Volcano
SLEEPING
Agohay Beach Resort........................6
Camiguin Highland Resort................7
Caves Resort.....................................8
Enigmata...........................................9
Jasmine by the Sea..........................10
Parras Beach Resort.........................11
Seascape.........................................12
Secret Cove....................................13
Magting
Bonbon
Catohugan
Catibac
Mt Tres Marias
Tuwasan
Bura
Falls
Lawigan
Itum
Sunken
Cemetery
0
0
White
Island Bug-ong
CAMIGUIN
In a country of thousands of islands its
hard for one to stand out. Camiguin (camee-gin) manages to distinguish itself, at least
in part because of its fortuitous location. Its
far removed from any threat of violence,
but because its part of Mindanao, many
people scratch it off their itinerary. Because
its uncorrupted by large numbers of tourists, those who do come tend to feel proprietorial about this little jewel and guard
news of its treasures like a secret.
The landscape is lush and varied like
other islands, but volcanic Camiguin rises
more dramatically from the sea like a Hawaiian island, managing to be both imposing and inviting, a less menacing version of
Sights & Activities
Big Bowl Restaurant (%341 5010; San Jose St, Rizal

Park; dishes P120; h6am-10pm; a) This cosy res-
Rive
Eating
Inland and a little south from Butuan is

the floodplain of the Agusan River and the
Agusan Marsh Wildlife Sanctuary, the largest
freshwater marsh in the Philippines. There
are villages of houses floating on bamboo
poles and tree trunks around the township
of Bunawan, and the swamps around Talacogon are a prime habitat for bird life and
a good number of crocodiles. The forested
area north of the Agusan River remains the
habitat of the tarsier, the tiniest primate in
the world.
Unless you have the time (and assistance)
to go about hiring transport and a guide for
the trip which could take several days to
arrange youre best off going through the
Balanghai Hotel in Butuan.
Mt Mambajao
Mainit
Hubangon
Mt Timpoong
Mantigue
(Magsaysay)
Mahinog
San Roque
Compol
CAMIGUIN
Taguines
Lagoon
Catarman
Tagato
Sagay
Benoni
Maac
Cabu-an
Mt Ilihan
Manuyog
Balate
Kabila White Beach

Guinsiliban
B1
B2
B1
B1
B1
B1
B1
B1
MINDANAO & SULU
MINDANAO & SULU
fan/air-con P220/500) Toilets dont have seats.
AROUND BUTUAN
Theres a PNB, DBP and Landbank in

Mambajao. PNB and DBP change US dollars but not euros, and PNB changes travellers cheques. At the time of research there
were no ATMs for foreign credit cards or
banking cards.
There is a tourist office (%387 1097; www
.camiguin.gov.ph; 2nd fl, Provincial Capitol Bldg) in
Mambajao. The staff here have a list of
homestay accommodation for those who
prefer to stay with a local family.
an
P500/650; a) Small rooms, small TVs and wood floors.
Imperial Hotel (%341 5319; San Francisco St; r with
Jurassic Park. The island is only 33km long

and 14km at its widest, and its possible
to see the islands of the southern Visayas
on clear days. Besides the usual diving,
snorkelling, sandy beaches, waterfalls and
hot and cold springs, Camiguin offers the
chance for jungle trekking, volcano climbing, rappelling as well as the general opportunity to figure out your own way around
the many natural attractions.
Islanders are mostly fishing folk, and
they are extremely warm and friendly to
tourists who are increasingly important to
the economy. No wild nightlife here, and
no-one seems to mind.
ng
Emerald Villa Hotel (%342 5377; Villanueva St; s/d
N O R T H E R N M I N D A N A O C a m i g u i n 379
na
from P600; a)
Butuan to Surigao (P150, two hours), Balingoan (P150, two hours), Cagayan de Oro
(P210, 3 hours) and Davao (P315, seven
hours). These times and prices are for aircon buses; the more frequent fan buses are
less direct and slower.
Camiguin
Di
the Embassy has wooden floors and basic

rooms furnished in grey. Theres a restaurant and videoke bar attached.
Also recommended:
Butuan Luxury Hotel (%342 5366; Villanueva St; r
as
378 N O R T H E R N M I N D A N A O A r o u n d B u t u a n
between Jasmines and Caves resorts (next

to the cemetery; it also has a small office in
Mambajao) or Johnnys Dive N Fun (%387 9588;
www.johnnysdive.com), based at the Secret Cove
resort (opposite). If youre already a diver,
expect to pay about US$20 for a boat dive
plus US$5 for equipment rental. Snorkelling
equipment is rented out for P250 to P300.
Climbing, trekking, mountain biking, horseback
riding, rappelling and any other action adventure can be booked through Camiguin Action Geckos; ask for the knowledgeable and
energetic Barbie Fernandez. Trips up HibokHibok cost around US$35 per person, and a
trek across the island is US$35 per person.
Barbie can tailor trips to any specifications,
for beginners or experienced, and easy to
difficult.
BENONI TO MAMBAJAO
Benoni has an artificial lagoon to the south

of its wharf and is a fish-breeding area.
Between Benoni and Mambajao youll
see Mantigue Island sometimes called Magsaysay offshore. A few fishing families live
here and theres still good coral. From the
Islet Beach Resort at Mahinog a return trip
to the island will cost P500.
Hibok-Hibok volcano (1320m), which last
erupted in 1951, provides a dramatic spark
no pun intended to the islands interior.
About 500m off the main road is the Philippine Institute of Volcanology & Seismology (Philvolcs) station, which monitors
the volcanos activity. A hired motorcycle
or multicab will take you there to see the
equipment and memorabilia of past eruptions. Its possible to climb the volcano, but
be warned that its a steep climb and you
should be reasonably fit. Most resorts have
a list of local guides who will take you up
the trail; aim to leave around daybreak if
you want to get up and down in a day.
Less energetic is the trip to Katibawasan
Falls (admission P10). This is a beautiful clear
stream of water dropping about 70m to a
plunge pool. You can swim here but the
changing rooms and picnic tables have
seen better days. A special trip by jeepney or multicab from Mambajao will cost
about P300 return; from the resorts around
Agoho its about P350 return.
Nearby are the very hot about 40C
Ardent Hot Springs (hsprings & grounds 6am-10pm);
head out late in the afternoon when the air
temperature has cooled down a bit. The big

pool (admission P20) is emptied for cleaning on
Wednesday and takes the best part of the
day to refill. The springs are in a lush setting
and get very busy on weekends.
NORTH COAST TO KABILA
Kuguita, Bug-ong, Agoho and Yumbing are the

most developed of the northern beaches
and are where much of the accommodation is located.
Tangub Hot Spring is a completely undeveloped spring that wells hot under the sea
bed, a few metres offshore at Tangub, just
beyond barangay Naasag. Its fun to sit in
the water at low tide as cold sea water and
hot spring water mix.
All these resorts give easy access to tiny,
uninhabited White Island, a pure, white-sand
bar a few hundred metres offshore. A return
trip should cost around P300.
Just before Bonbon youll pass the Old
Camiguin Volcano, whose slopes have been
turned into a steep and beautiful Stations
of the Cross. There are great views from the
top and a bunch of souvenir stalls selling
cheap T-shirts and the like clustered at the
bottom of the steps. Between the hillside
and Bonbon youll see an enormous white
cross floating on a pontoon in the bay;
this marks the spot of the Sunken Cemetery,
which slipped into the sea following the
earthquake of 1871; its now a snorkelling
and diving spot teeming with fish and coral.
The same earthquake destroyed the 17thcentury Spanish church in Bonbon; its quiet
ruins still stand, with grazing cattle and a
makeshift altar inside.
About 10km further along the island road
from Bonbon is Catarman. Near Catarman
is the little visited and unspoiled Tuwasan
Falls. The road here is impassable after rain,
but if its dry a jeepney or multicab can take
you to the start of the path. From there its
about a 15-minute hike to the falls, walking twice through the river (this is also not
possible after heavy rain as the river is too
high). The falls thunder into a pool which
may be too rough to plunge into, but its
nice to see the tree ferns and rainforest created by the spray.
Also near Catarman is the Santo Nio Cold
Spring (admission P10; h8am-noon & 1-5pm, closed for
cleaning 8-10am Mon), a terrific huge pool, 40m
long, filled by the spring.
HOT SPOT
Camiguin has the most number of volcanoes per square kilometre than any other
island on earth. It has more volcanoes than
towns, and more than 20 cinder cones over
1000m.
Guinsiliban is an alternative port to Benoni,

and some ships from Cagayan de Oro dock
here. Behind the elementary school by the
wharf are the remains of an old Spanish
watchtower, used to watch out for possible
Moro invaders from the mainland. A pretty
shrine is maintained here.
Soon after rounding the southern end
of the island and turning north you come
upon Kabila White Beach, nestled in a cove;
four species of giant clams are cultivated in
a protected nursery offshore.
Festivals & Events

Camiguin is widely recognised for having
the sweetest lanzones (small, yellow fruit
that tastes like a mix of lemons and lychees)
in the archipelago. The annual Lanzones Festival takes place around the third week of
October, when you can join in with everyone else and make an unashamed glutton of
yourself on these truly delicious fruit.
Sleeping & Eating

MAMBAJAO & AROUND
Enigmata (formerly Tarzans Nest; %387 0273, 0918

230 4184; www.geocities.com/enigmatagaleri; r P250350; s) As the name may suggest, this is
a hippy-trippy lodge/arts collective built

around a huge old hardwood tree. Its located up a hill off the main road about 3km
southeast of Mambajao. Beads and bottles
and fabrics and wood are everywhere, and
one whole unconventionally designed floor
sleeps four for only P800. Theres also a
good restaurant (pizza P150, Thai chicken
P120, vegetable curry P150). Look for the
sign and turn south off the main road when
you reach Balbagon. Tricycle from Mambajo is around P25.
Camiguin Highland Resort (%387 0515; www
.camiguinhighlands.com; r from P2000; as) Definitely a fish out of water, the Highland Resort looks like the Imelda Marcos version
of a Mediterranean villa except its perched
half way up a mountain nowhere near the
N O R T H E R N M I N D A N A O C a m i g u i n 381
ocean. The large, clean, bordering-on-garish

rooms are easily the nicest on the island and
the service the most professional. Theres a
good restaurant, coffee shop, pool, Jacuzzi
and horseback riding, and all manner of
hikes and water activities can be arranged.
Its located past the capitol buildings and
the turn off for the Katibawasan Falls.
Casa Grande (%387 2075; r P800) and Tias Pension House (%387 0103; r P200) offer simple accommodation in Mambajao.
NORTHERN BEACHES
Jasmine by the Sea (%387 9015; melindawidmer@

yahoo.com; r/cottage P300/500) Its difficult to leave
Jasmines. This idyllic, friendly little place
on the beach at Bug-ong is one of the bestvalue places in Mindanao. There are several
large, clean wood-floored rooms with modern bathrooms, and a few small individual
cottages. Though the latter have their own
private porch, the main building has its own
attractive veranda and there are hammocks
on the lawn. Theres an open-air restaurant
and bar serving good Western and Filipino
food, and motorcycles and mountain bikes
are available for hire.
Seascape (%0920 823 8602; r/cottage P600/800)
Next door to Jasmines, Seascape has a very
nice, huge bamboo and nipa hut with wood
furniture and private porch with a hammock; the concrete rooms are less attractive. In the middle of the lawn, set off from
the beach, is a two-storey restaurant, a good
place for a sunset meal or drink.
Secret Cove (%387 9084; tomsolski@fastmail.com;
r with fan/air-con P600/1000; s) Theres no real
beachfront at the Secret Cove though there
is a little artificial sandy area and the nicely
decorated air-con rooms have cable TV. Its
the headquarters of Johnnys Dive N Fun and
it has a good restaurant serving such delicacies as ostrich meat in cream sauce (P330).
The pool overlooks the sea (nonguests P50).
Caves Resort (%387 0077, 0920 424 5345; caves
resort@yahoo.com; r P300-700) This resort on a
wide part of the beach at Agoho has small
(but nice) concrete cottages on the grounds
behind the big, airy restaurant and bar on
the beachfront. Rooms in the main bamboo
building are simple and clean but the common bathroom is not in the best condition.
Parras Beach Resort (%387 9008; r from P1700;
as) Parras has the facilities of a high-end
resort, but also the lack of privacy and the
MINDANAO & SULU
MINDANAO & SULU
380 N O R T H E R N M I N D A N A O C a m i g u i n
Department of Tourism Office (%272 3696;

dotr10@yahoo.com; Apolinar Velez St; h7.30-noon &
1-6.30pm) At the front of the Pelaez Sports Centre complex
across the street from the Polymedic General Hospital.
Air Philippines (Apolinar Velez St)

Cebu Pacific Air (Apolinar Velez St)
Limcon Travel & Ticketing Services (%857 5704;
47 Tirso Neri St) Can book all onward transport.
BUDGET
St
y
Mag
saysa
Provincial
Capitol
Building
St
Akut
St
hamb
C5
A5
C4
C5
B5
C4
Monta
lban
St
Ramonal St
D Vel
ez St
Yacapin St
19
JR Borja St
22
TRANSPORT
Negros Navigation Agent.......31 C4
12
C Taal St
Fruit
Stalls
Tirso Neri St
Golden
Friendship
(Divisoria)
RN Abejuela St
25
3
13
T Chavez St
27
Park
Xavier University
Folk Museum
10
17
29
23
Post
Office
31
Gomez St
28
City
Hall
24
Gaerlan St
St
San Agustin
Riverside
Park
Gaston
Park
San Augustin
Cathedral
Police
Station
Fernandez St
15
20
14
7
Hayes St
To Airport (10km);
Makahambus
Adventure Park
(14km)
Ramon Chavez
Public
Library
Pacana St
21
Ebarle St
16
St
Mabini St
SHOPPING
Gaisanos Mall........................30 D1
18
es Ave
ar Vel
han
Apolin
bago
ers S
t
Kalam
ez St
us St
Riviera St
Corral
Maka
A Luna St
11
MH d
el Pila
r St
St
Natures Pensionne (%857 2274; T Chavez St; r P580870; a) Easily the best value in the city,
Echem
B5
B5
C5
C5
C3
EATING
Blueberry Caf.......................23 C5
Bos Coffee Club....................24 C5
Chowking..............................25 B5
Gazebo Home Store Caf...... 26 C6
Jollibee.................................. 27 C5
Sea King Restaurant.............(see 17)
Sentro....................................28 C5
Vienna Kaffehaus.................. 29 C5
Burgos
MIDRANGE
SLEEPING
Grand City Hotel...................17
Hotel Ramon.........................18
La Mar Inn.............................19
Nature's Pensionne................20
Parkview Hotel.......................21
VIP Hotel...............................22
River
Parkview Hotel (%857 1198; r P285-600; a) This

hotel overlooking Friendship Park has a
very professional-looking lobby and small,
basic rooms with old furniture.
Hotel Ramon (%857 4804; Burgos St; s/d P600/700;
a) The downstairs lobby is nice enough
but some of the rooms here should have
been decommissioned years ago. The hallways arent always kept as clean as they
should be, though if youre fortunate some
of the river-view rooms are OK.
C4
B5
C2
C5
C5
C5
C3
B4
C5
C2
St
Pabayo St
Sleeping
Nacalaban
30
To Robinsons Mall (1km);
Agora Market (2km);
Bus Terminal (2km)
26
St
Aguinaldo St
TOURIST INFORMATION
TRAVEL AGENCIES
C2
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

Pelaez Sports Centre..............(see 8)
Cagayan
Endowed with an impressive name (the

Oro part, after all, refers to the gold discovered by the Spanish in the river here),
the city unfortunately has the usual trafficclogged streets and is primarily a stop to
or from Camiguin Island or the departure
point for the road journey south to Davao.
That it is comparatively wealthy becomes
obvious when youre inching forward on
the northern access road lined with new
car lots. Today, much of the citys economic
activity centres on the vegetable gold of the
Del Monte pineapple processing plant a few
kilometres north of town, and the compa-
All the major banks are here and will change

US dollars and have ATMs.
BPI (JR Borja St) Theres another branch on RN Abejuela St.
Equitable PCI Bank (JR Borja St) Theres another branch
INFORMATION
Air Philippines..........................1
Bank of the Philippine Islands
(BPI)....................................2
BPI...........................................3
Cebu Pacific Air.......................4
Cindy's Internet Caf...............5
Clickwork Internet...................6
Cyberlink.................................7
Department of Tourism............8
Equitable PCI Bank...................9
Equitable PCI Bank.................10
Landbank...............................11
Limcon Travel & Ticketing
Services..............................12
Netopia Internet.....................13
Pegasus Internet....................14
PNB.......................................15
Polymedic General Hospital...16
Apolinar Velez St
%088 / pop 461,877
MONEY
Abellanosa St
St
Tiano Brothers
CAGAYAN DE ORO
Rizal St
The road around the island is 64km long,

so its possible to make the circuit in a few
hours. For ease of travel and access to places
that jeepneys dont go, think about hiring
a motorcycle (P300 to P500), or a multicab
that can comfortably seat about six people
(P1000) and take you around for a day.
Public jeepneys and multicabs ply the
road from Benoni to Mambajao (P25, 40
minutes). A special ride to Mambajao costs
P150; to the resorts north of Mambajao
youll pay P250. There is a flat rate of P5
for local rides.
300 m
0.2 miles
To Macabalan
Wharf
To Coconut Beach
Resort (12km);
Iligan (60km)
INTERNET ACCESS
on Apolinar Velez St.

Landbank (A Luna St)
PNB (Corrales Ave)
Corrales Av
e
Getting Around
Broth
SEAIR (%387 0035; www.flyseair.com) has flights

from Cebu to Camiguin (P1500, 45 minutes)
on Wednesday, Friday and Sunday; return
flights are on the same days. The airport is
near Mambajao.
Ferries cross from Balingoan (P70, one
hour), about 80km north of Cagayan de
Oro, to Benoni. Boats run about hourly
from early morning to 4.30pm.
See p378 for information on getting to Balingoan from Cagayan de Oro and Butuan.
0
0
CAGAYAN DE ORO
Information
Cindys Internet, Clickwork Internet, Moon
Computer Station and Pegasus Internet
are all on T Chavez St between Apolinar
Velez St and Pabayo St. Cyberlink and Netopia are within a few blocks. Most charge
around P30 per hour.
N O R T H E R N M I N D A N A O C a g a y a n d e O r o 383
Tiano
nys plantations in the hills above Cagayan.

Every Friday and Saturday night Divisoria or Golden Friendship Park is closed to
street traffic and lined with food stalls and
street cafs. The presence of Xavier University explains the significant student population cramming the Internet cafs.
Cagayan de Oro
MINDANAO & SULU
MINDANAO & SULU
concrete all too typical in the Philippines.

This complex at Yumbing has a souvenir
shop, billiards, pool, bar, restaurant and
conference facilities. You can hire kayaks
(P200) and speed boats (P500).
Agohay Beach Resort (Camiguin Seaside Lodge;%387
9031; cottages P500) The Agohay dormitory nipa
cottages cater particularly to large groups;
some have private bathroom. Theres a big
restaurant area.
General Capistrano St
382 N O R T H E R N M I N D A N A O C a g a y a n d e O r o
centrally located Natures Pensionne is

unusual in that it makes tasteful aesthetic
choices and pays attention to detail. The
bright new wing rooms are especially attractive, decorated with wooden furniture
and artwork.
Grand City Hotel (%857 1900; Apolinar Velez St; r
from P770; a) The Grand City shares a parking lot with Natures Pensionne next door,
but has little of the latters sense of style,
though the standard motel rooms are well
looked after.
La Mar Inn (%231 4342; Apolinar Velez St; r from
P700) Across the street from its sister hotel,
the VIP, La Mar Inn is a good midrange
alternative even if the carpeting is slightly
worn. Ask for the large semicircle-shaped
suite-like room on the corner.
Coconut Beach Resort (%855 2702; cottages from
P680; as) Cagayans beach option, the
Coconut is a few kilometres north of town
(taxi P80) with fine air-con cottages, private bathrooms and cable TV. Weekends
at the beach and swimming pool can be
very busy.
TOP END
VIP Hotel (%856 2505; viphotel@mozcom.com; Apolinar

Velez St; s/d P960/1080) The VIP is the downtown
choice for business travellers. It has doormen, well-trained and professional staff and
comfortably furnished rooms, though some
of the windows open only to the alleyway.
Theres a good coffee shop attached.
Eating
Sentro (50 Apolinar Velez St; a) Easily the hippest and most cosmopolitan place in the
city, Sentro feels like a slice of Manila or
Cebu. The menu is Asian fusion with delicious dishes like the kamikaze burger (P95),
Thai beef salad (P85) and baby back ribs
(P185).
Gazebo Home Store Caf (% 856 8640; cnr
Apolinar Velez & Gaerlan Sts; sandwiches P85; h9.30am8.30pm) Dont think that youve walked into a
crafts and homewares store; there are a few

Italian gardenstyle wood tables towards
the back and the meat and vegetable sandwiches are excellent. Espresso and cappuccino are served.
Sea King Restaurant (Grand City Hotel, Apolinar Velez
St; dishes from P130; a) The Sea King is probably the citys most upscale restaurant in
terms of vibe though not prices, with uni-
formed waiters, gold-plated statues and ice

sculptures. It has good Chinese and Filipino
seafood dishes, and theres a dinner buffet
(P135) every Wednesday and Saturday.
Vienna Kaffehaus (Apolinar Velez St; dishes P130;
a) A half-hearted attempt at a theme restaurant: the waitresses are dressed liked
Swiss misses and Wiener schnitzel (P150) is
on the menu. But this restaurant is friendly
and modern and does good grilled meat,
cakes and shakes.
Blueberry Caf (dishes from P75; a) A model
train runs on an overhead track and a fake
blueberry tree guards the entrance, the
combination of which somehow produces
a homey atmosphere. The menu includes
pastas (P70), chicken cordon bleu (P165),
burgers (P75) and chocolate mousse (P40),
however the service is rather desultory.
Bos Coffee Club (Apolinar Velez St; h7am-midnight; a) Branch of the Starbucks imitator.
There are several fast-food joints including Chowking and Jollibee around the
Golden Friendship Park area. Gaisano City
Mall, only a few kilometres north of the city
centre, has cinemas, shops, Internet cafs
and the usual range of fast food. Robinsons
Mall is a few kilometres further east.

AIR
The airport is 10km west of town, and it

will cost you around P100 to get there by
taxi. Jeepneys also meet the planes. There
are daily flights to Cagayan de Oro from
Manila with Cebu Pacific Air, PAL and Air
Philippines (1 hours).
BOAT
Macabalan Wharf is 5km from the city centre. You can get there by jeepney; a taxi will
cost about P50.
Between Manila and Cagayan, SuperFerry has four weekly trips (P2400, 35
hours); Negros Navigation and Sulpicio
boats both run twice weekly. For boat details from Manila, see p110.
There is a boat to Cebu City five nights a
week. Boats to Dumaguete on Negros leave
twice a week and to Jagna on Bohol once
a week.
Negros Navigation has boats to Iloilo on
Panay twice a week. The Negros Navigation agent in Cagayan has an office on JR
Borja St.
N O R T H E R N M I N D A N A O A r o u n d C a g a y a n d e O r o 385
BUS
There are regular Rural Transit buses from

around 4am to 4pm northbound to Butuan
(P210, 3 hours) and Surigao (P300, six
hours), southbound for Davao (P400, seven
hours) and westbound for Iligan (P100, 1
hours). The bus terminal is by the Agora
fruit and vegetable wholesale market, a couple of kilometres out of town.
AROUND CAGAYAN DE ORO

Tribal theme parks, the kind that arent
uncommon in China and other Southeast
Asian countries, are always dubious propositions. Native peoples perform in authentically native ways which unfortunately cant
be seen in any authentic setting. Malasag
ecovillage (%855 6183; admission P20), about 20
minutes to the north of the city, is supposed to showcase the ecology and ethnic
cultures of northern Mindanao. Set in acres
of botanical gardens with a small wildlife
collection of butterflies, birds and deer, it
is a theme park of sorts, featuring tribal
houses, a museum and an education centre. Locals who come here seem to enjoy
themselves. Theres camping, cottages, a
swimming pool (P50) and a good restaurant. Take a jeepney to Cugman and get off
at Malasag, then take a motorcycle up the
hill to the ecovillage. A taxi will cost about
P200 one way.
Pineapplephiles rave those who simply
like the fruit are more tepid in their reactions
about the free tours offered by Del Monte
(reservations % 855 4312, ext 2591/2; h 8am-1pm
Sat) of the companys enormous pineapple
processing factory and plantation at Bugo,

approximately 15km north of Cagayan. Regardless of the level of your passion, the
sight of pineapples as far as the eye can see
is pretty surreal. You need to call a day or so
in advance to book. The pineapple plantations, all 95 sq km of them, are about 35km
north and east of Cagayan, on the Bukidnon
plateau at Camp Phillips (where General
Douglas MacArthur fled after the battle of
Corregidor Island in 1942). Jeepneys run
to Camp Phillips (P10, one hour) but the
plantations lie behind the complex, so its
best to hire someone on site to drive you
on a looping back road through the plantations to the Del Monte Clubhouse and Golf
Course about 5km away. You can then pick
up a bus to Malaybalay or back to Cagayan
from the main road there. A special return

trip by taxi will cost around P500.
For an adrenalin rush head out to the
Makahambus Adventure Park, only 14km out of
Cagayan de Oro beyond the airport. Theres
a 120km-long sky bridge tethered over 40m
above the jungle, a zip line, rappelling, and
rafting. Contact Sinkhole Inc (%856 3972, 0917
712 1990; rverguide@yahoo.com; entrance per person incl
use of skybridge, zip line & rappelling P500, kayaks P1000,
whitewater rafting per person P1200) or Cagayan de
Oro Whitewater Rafting Adventure (%857 1270,
0919 358 8328; www.cagayandeoro.net.ph; per person
from P800). January to June is the dry season
when the water is clearer and the runs more

technical. Inside the park is the Makahambus
Cave; take a torch (flashlight) and theres a
viewing deck over the river. From here you
can walk down the steps to the gorge; depending on the depth and force of the river,
you may be able to plunge in the pools here.
From Cagayan, take a jeepney marked Dansolihon/Talakag. A return taxi ride will cost
P200 to P300.
MALAYBALAY & AROUND

pop 123,672
In the mountains above Cagayan de Oro is

Malaybalay, the capital of Bukidnon, a topographically dramatic province, interspersed
with canyons and huge plantations of bananas, carrots, pineapple and sugarcane.
There are several tribal groups that call the
region home, including the Bukidnon, Higgonon, Matissalug and Umayamnon.
From mid-February to late March, Malaybalay is the setting for the annual Kaamulan
Festival, a celebration of unity between the
tribal people living in the area. Activities
include dance, song, storytelling, local food
and wine, and ritual enactments.
Impalutao reforestation centre offers hiking
in one of the only untouched forests in the
area, about 40 minutes north of Malaybalay.
Waterfalls and rivers throughout the reserve offer a cool place to swim. Take a
bus from Cagayan to Malaybalay, but ask
the conductor to let you know where to
get off.
Just north of Valencia (south of Malaybalay) off the highway is the Monastery of the
Transfiguration, worth a visit if only for the
gorgeous drive into the hills. On Sunday
at 8am there is an English service with a
lovely boys choir, and you can buy coffee
MINDANAO & SULU
MINDANAO & SULU
384 N O R T H E R N M I N D A N A O C a g a y a n d e O r o
and peanuts grown by the monks. You will

need a motorcycle or a friend to take you as
there is no public transport.
Driving up to Malaybalay from Cagayan
youll see the impressive 3000m Mt Kitanglad
in the distance; its one of the highest mountains in the Philippines and still a habitat of
the Philippine eagle.
Pine Hills Hotel (%841 3211; r from P1000), on
the highway in Malaybalay, is at the top of
the scale. It has good food, as does the Zion
Ranch on the plaza. Haus Malibu (%221 2714;
Bonifacio Dr; r P200-700) has a range of rooms.
Malaybalay is on the Cagayan to Davao
and Cotabato run, and buses travel regularly every day. The journey normally takes
about two hours.
ILIGAN
%063 / pop 325,000
Although its promoted as the City of Magnificent Waterfalls, the inevitable first impression one has of Iligan is of a sprawling
industrial park with countless cement and
food-processing factories. Hydroelectrical
power harnessed from the water of Lake
Lanao in the hills above the city has meant
the city has outstripped its neighbours in
terms of development, though it still lags in
terms of charm. Tinago Falls is the most accessible and shares the grounds with a resort
and mini-zoo, but the cold Timoga Springs is
probably a better place to cool off.
Late September is Ang Sinulog fiesta time,
when the streets into town are lined with
fantastic bamboo and nipa arches to honour San Miguel, the citys patron saint.
Information
Computer Cafe (MH del Pilar St) One of several Internet
cafs in town.
Equitable PCI Bank (Luna St) Has ATMs and will change
US dollars.
PNB (cnr B Labao & San Miguel Sts) Has ATMs and will
change US dollars.
Tourist Office (%221 3426; ABC Bldg, Quezon Ave;
hMon-Fri) Near City Hall.
Sleeping & Eating

Cheradel Suites (%223 8118; fax 221 4926; Jeffery Rd;
r from P1000; s) The top-end choice in Iligan,
Cheradel Suites offers comfortable rooms,
with stand-out bathrooms. Its located five
minutes east of town and theres a pool for
guests.
Tinago Residence Inn (r from P700; a) Definitely a more picturesque option to staying
in town, the inn and restaurant here overlook the Tinago Falls; however the roar of
the caged lion in the mini-zoo can be disconcerting. The bamboo and nipa cottages have
balconies and clean, private bathrooms.
Elenas Tower Inn (%/fax 221 5995; r P600-1200)
Street noise is slightly muffled here since
the Elena, which has clean and brightly
painted rooms, is just off the main drag.
Theres a good line of halal food stalls
on Tomas Cabili Ave, and Filipino food is
served at Patio Alejandra and at Enricos,
one of the oldest restaurants in Iligan. Jollibee and Chowking are centrally located.
Shopping
Iligan is a good place to look for Islamic
crafts, especially if youre not going to the
market at Marawi. Both Jolo Iligan Trading
(Quezon Ave) and Hiyas Trading (Fortaleza St) have
a good selection of weavings, traditional
motif batiks and brassware.

The nearest airport is north at Cagayan
de Oro, serviced regularly by buses (P100,
1 hours). There are also buses to Ozamis
(P100, 1 hours) and south to Pagadian.
The terminals are on Roxas Avenue.
SuperFerry runs boat services twice a
week for Manila (P2300, 50 hours). Cebu
Ferries departs for Cebu twice weekly
(P800, 11 hours).
George & Peter Lines boats leave once a
week for Lazi on Siquijor (five hours).
MARAWI & LAKE LANAO

%063 / pop 131,100
Marawi, where the population is over 90%

Muslim, is considered the Islamic centre of
the Philippines and its daily rhythms follow the beat of religious worship. The citys
residents have preserved aspects of their
traditional royal-heavy system of government, replete with a sultan, queen, Datus
(pre-Hispanic tribal chieftain) and princess, though leaders are mostly focused on
social rather than administrative issues, and
mediate conflicts between families the
downside to strong family ties, these feuds
can sometimes produce bad blood that
lasts for generations and is as substantial a
threat to the peace of the region as political
HERITAGE OF VENGEANCE
The southern Philippines honour code
called rido is much like that of the American
mafia, in which personal affronts can lead
to generations-long rifts between families
and clan groups. Important to both Muslims
and non-Muslims alike, according to USAID
and the Asia Foundation, this bad blood has
led to over 1220 clan conflicts, 4512 deaths,
and 3000 missing persons since 1920.
grievances or terrorism (see the boxed text,

above). A new road around the circumference of nearby Lake Lanao means all the
communities are now easily accessible by
road. Maranao, originally Maranaw, is derived from the two words taw and ranaw,
which literally means man of the lake.
The city sits prettily in a bowl of hills on
Lake Lanaos northern shore, the countrys
second-largest lake. Places to visit include the
Aga Khan Museum (h9am-noon & 1-4pm) at Mindanao State University (MSU) campus on the
eastern edge of the city; the palitan (market)
for carved wooden chests, fabrics, and brassware crafted in Tugaya township across the
lake; Dayawan weaving village outside the city
proper; and in barangay Tokah, the ceremonial wooden Torongan buildings, an example
of how early Maranao royalty lived.
Marawi Resort Hotel (%0919 847 358; cottages
P850-1000; s) is the only hotel in Marawi.
It is on the MSU campus and has huge
grounds with lots of trees, a restaurant and
a good view of the lake. The cottages have
balconies, but are in need of a makeover.
Jeepneys and buses run regularly to and
from Iligan and Marawi. A return trip by
taxi (if you can find a driver to take you),
with a couple of hours waiting time, will
cost at least P2000. Alternatively there are
buses from Cagayan de Oro which pass
through Iligan on the way to Marawi (P220,
3 hours to Marawi).
SOUTHERN MINDANAO
Davao, a fairly cosmopolitan city, is usually
as far south as most visitors venture and is
the most common gateway for hiking Mt
Apo, the highest peak in the Philippines,
as well as the jumping-off point for several
S O U T H E R N M I N D A N A O D a v a o 387
nearby islands. The area around Lake Sebu

is inhabited by indigenous tribal groups.
The region has seen its share of violence,
though in general the cities themselves are
considered safe, as is the road bisecting the
island from Cagayan de Oro, which is a
good way to experience the varied topography of Mindanao.
DAVAO
%082 / pop 1,147,116
This sprawling city the second-largest in

the world in terms of land area is an interesting mix of Muslim, Chinese and tribal
influences, all trumped perhaps by the inexorable march of modernity and development.
While Davao (dah-bow, and sometimes spelt
Dabaw) was able to hold out against the
invading Spaniards until the mid-19th century, the city has embraced its role as the
engine of business and commerce in the
southern Philippines. Predominantly Christian, the city has seen its share of hard times:
urban guerrilla warfare was endemic here in
the 80s, and more recently there was a devastating bomb blast at the airport in 2003.
But there are enough late-model cars and
expensive imports on the roads as proof that
this relatively wealthy city has rebounded. Of
course, they share the streets with the much
more numerous peddlers and ordinary Filipinos struggling to make a living.
Davao also has a long-standing Japanese
history, which is associated with early abacaprocessing warehouses in the area and, less
happily, with WWII, when the thriving Japanese community dispersed. There are still
strong ties between the mother country and
little Japan, as Davao is also known.
Outside the city, export quantities of
pineapples, bananas and citrus are produced, and plantations can be visited. For
the natural-history enthusiast, there are
walking tracks around nearby Mt Apo and
theres a breeding programme for the endangered Philippine eagle at nearby Eagle
Conservation Centre.
Mt Apo looms majestically in the distance
and the nearby islands of Samal and Talikud
offer clear water, good corals and wreckdiving.
Orientation
Some key streets are confusingly referred
to by both old and new names. The city
MINDANAO & SULU
MINDANAO & SULU
386 N O R T H E R N M I N D A N A O I l i g a n
388 S O U T H E R N M I N D A N A O D a v a o
Davao
0
0
DAVAO
A
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Pedro
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Qu
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Qu
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11
14
21
J Rizal St
15
5
Davao
10
Riv
Davao
Gulf
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Bolton St
MacArthur Hw
To Calinan (36km);
Eagle Camp (36km)
Blv
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Blv
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Ave
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Shakeys 19
St
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26
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Palma Gil St
Ban
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18
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29
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t
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27
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31
32
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Ana
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Immigration
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Tourist Office
Magsaysay
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Information
ia
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28
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33
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B5
B5
To Long Hua & Taoist

Temples (3km); Hagar's
(8km); Waterfront Insular
Hotel & Dabaw Museum
(8km); Sasa Terminal
(8km); Airport (10km)
Ign
La
Le Mirage Family
Lodge.........................................11
Manor Hotel....................................12
Marco Polo Hotel ............................13
Royal Downtown
Hotel..........................................14
Royale House...................................15
St
EATING
Claude Caf.....................................16 B5
Eateries............................................17 D3
Greenhills Seafood Haus.................(see 23)
Hanoi Restaurant.............................18 A4
Harana Restaurant.........................(see 24)
I Love Sushi......................................19 A5
Lysells Business Restaurant..............20 A5
Madayaw Ihaw Ihaw........................21 B5
Madroza Fruit Center.......................22 B4
Mongolian Garden.........................(see 24)
Pacific Harbour Bar & Grill................23 A5
Sushi Rikki........................................24 A3
Tsuru Japanese Restaurant............... 25 A4
ENTERTAINMENT
Spam's Disco....................................26 B5
Venue..............................................27 A3
Zirkle Disco......................................28 A2
SHOPPING
Aldevinco Center Extension..............29
Aldevinco Shopping Center..............30
Gaisano Mall....................................31
NCCC Department Store..................32
Victoria Plaza...................................33
B4
B4
B3
C3
A2
TRANSPORT
Buses to Calinan...............................34 A5
INTERNET ACCESS
There are several cafs clustered north of

the intersection of San Pedro St and Pelayo
St plus at least one each in Gaisano Mall
and Victoria Plaza.
Internet XChange (Pelayo St; per hr P15)
Lysells Business Restaurant (A Pichon St; per hr P15;
h24hr)
MEDICAL SERVICES
Davao Doctors Hospital (%221 2072; E Quirino Ave)

San Pedro Hospital (%224 0616; Guerrero St)
MONEY
All of the major banks have branches here,

most change US dollars and have ATMs.
Equitable PCI Bank (CM Recto Ave) Theres another
branch near the wharves.
PNB (CM Recto Ave)
TOURIST INFORMATION
City Tourist Office (%222 1956; www.davaotourism

.com; City Hall) Opposite San Pedro Cathedral. Theres
another branch near Maysaysay Park.
Indonesian Consulate General (%297 2930; fax 297
3462; Ecoland Dr, Ecoland Subdivision, Matina) To make a
ferry trip from General Santos to Indonesia (see p394) you
will need to come here for your visa requirements.
Sights & Activities

You can easily fill a pleasant half day in
the north of the city towards the airport.
Coming from the city, take a jeepney in
the direction of Sasa and get off at the Long
Hua Temple (Cabaguio St; h7.30am-4.30pm), about
2km from the city centre. Its an easy
landmark, a huge Chinese Buddhist temple with beautiful wooden floors and carved
walls and doors.
Walking back towards the city for a couple of hundred metres, youll see a sign on
a small sidestreet on the right to the Taoist
Temple, with its fantastic red pagoda. Ring a
bell on the gate if you want to go inside.
Continue north by jeepney or taxi to the
Dabaw Museum (admission P20; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat),
next to the Waterfront Insular Hotel. It has
S O U T H E R N M I N D A N A O D a v a o 389
a good collection of local historical interest,

and a selection of tribal weavings and artefacts from most of the Mindanao tribes.
Festivals & Events

Tribal cultures, agriculture and craftsmanship are showcased during the third week
of August each year, during the Kadayawan
sa Dabaw Festival. There are costumed street
parades, dances and performances, along
with fantastic displays of fruit and flowers.
Sleeping
BUDGET & MIDRANGE
Manor Hotel (%221 2511; manor@skyinet.net; A Pichon St; s/d P680/850; a) Although the rooms
here are small, they are cosy and efficient
and have modern bathrooms and cable TV.
Despite the lack of windows they feel bright
and sunny.
Aljems Inn 2 (%300 8255; J Rizal St; s/d P700/850;
a) Slightly nicer than its sister hotel Aljems
Inn 1, No 2 has sunny bright hallways with
wooden floors and tiled rooms, though the
beds and mattresses are a little thin.
Aljems Inn 1 (%227 9629; fax 221 3059; A Pichon
St; s/d P600/730; a) This is a good alternative
if the above two places are full, though the
rooms are older and the furniture is not
as nice.
Royal Downtown Inn (%226 2180; San Pedro St;
s/d P400/500; a) This friendly and well-maintained hotel is next door to Mercury Pharmacy. The wood floors are kept spotless as
are the small but cosy rooms.
Le Mirage Family Lodge (%226 3811; San Pedro
St; s/d with fan P250/300, s/d with air-con P500/600; a)
On the other side of Mercury Pharmacy

on bustling San Pedro St, rooms at Le Mirage have wood floors but are too small to
include much else beside a bed. Cheaper
rooms have a common bathroom.
Royale House (%227 3630; royalehouse@skyinet
.net; 34 CM Recto St; s/d from P350/500; a) The rooms
at the Royale are clean and well maintained
though only some of the toilets have seats.
Theres a good caf in the lobby.
Sunny Point Lodge (%221 0155; fax 244 0562; A
Pichon St; r P250-600) Sunny Point has a nice caf
on the ground floor and basic rooms.
TOP END
Grand Men Seng Hotel (%221 9040; grand@menseng

.com.ph; A Pichon St; r P1500-2800; as) Like the
doormen out front, the Grand Men Seng
MINDANAO & SULU
JP
B5
A5
B4
SLEEPING
Aljem's Inn 2......................................7 B5
Aljems Inn 1..................................(see 12)
Apo View Hotel................................. 8 A5
Casa Leticia........................................9 A4
Grand Men Seng
Hotel...........................................10 B6
B5
D3
B4
A5
B5
D2
sprawls along the Davao Gulf to the south

and is bounded by the Davao River to the
west. Gaisano Mall and Victoria Plaza, the
two large flagships, are along CM Recto
Ave, the major thoroughfare that cuts
through the centre of the city.
300 m
0.2 miles
University of South
Eastern Philippines
Ars
Lac enio
son
St
MINDANAO & SULU
INFORMATION
City Tourist Office..............................1
Internet XChange...............................4
PNB....................................................5
WG&A Lines...................................... 6
comes sharply dressed, putting on its best

face in the large, marble lobby, usually a
hive of activity, and the nice roof pool (nonguests P100) behind the complex. Rooms
here are certainly good value but not as nice
as others in the top end.
Marco Polo Hotel (%221 0888; www.marcopolo
hotels.com; CM Recto St; r from P4800; ais) The
modern and elegant Marco Polo anchors
the centre of the city opposite the Aldevinco
Shopping Centre. It has all the facilities and
room standards of a top-end international
hotel, including a rooftop lap pool, gym,
several restaurants and a nice lounge in the
marble-floored lobby. Theres a good travel
agency on the ground floor.
Waterfront Insular Hotel (%233 2881; www.water
fronthotels.net; r from P3600; a) An enormous
ageing complex 8km out of town on the
way to the airport, the Waterfront Insular
attracts large groups and conventions with
extensive grounds and a small private beach.
It has seven restaurants and can arrange just
about any watersport and transport to Samal
Island. Wireless Internet is available.
Also recommended, both with wireless
Internet:
Apo View Hotel (%221 6430; www.apoview.com; 150
J Camus St; r from P4000; a)
Casa Leticia (%224 0501; www.casaleticia.com;
J Camus St; s/d P1600/1720; a)
Eating
Locals tell you that once you eat Davao
durian youll always come back to the city,
though you may have to work at acquiring
the taste for it. Its in season from September to December the rest of the year, try
durian ice cream as a substitute.
Claude Caf (%222 4287, 0918 574 0527; 29 Rizal St;
dishes P250; a) Claudes feels like a romantic
Parisian bistro. This classy and sophisticated
restaurant has aged wooden floors, dining
by candlelight and an extensive menu and
wine selection. Some of the delicacies are
frog legs (P175), grilled porterhouse (P450)
and salmon pt (P350).
Tsuru (%221 0901; Pelayo St; meal P200; a)
Next to Casa Leticia and the Hanoi Restaurant, Tsuru serves quality, authentic
Japanese cuisine like sashimi, sushi, shabu
shabu and tempura (P250).
Hanoi Restaurant (%225 4501; dishes P200; J
Camus St; a) Sharing a kitchen and the building with Tsuru, Hanoi is a stylish Vietnam-
ese restaurant. The ginger duck (P220) is

especially tasty.
I Love Sushi (%225 1800; dishes P85; a) A
small joint serving delicious Japanese fast
food like sizzling tofu (P50) or a sashimi
platter (P95). Theres another branch at
Victoria Mall.
Madayaw Ihaw Ihaw (%227 2445; dishes P80;
h9am-2pm & 6pm-2am) Youll feel like youre
at a beach barbecue at this restaurant on
the second floor of an open-air balcony. Eat
barbecue meat skewers (P16) and seafood
at bamboo picnic tables.
Lysells Business Restaurant (%227 3582; 2nd
fl, Gillamacs Bldg, A Pinchon St; dishes P100; a) Directly across the street from Manor Pension
House and Ajems Inn 1, Lysells is on the
second floor and serves continental breakfast (P55) and Filipino dishes. Very clean
and connected to an Internet caf.
Greenhills Seafood Haus (Pelayo St) and next
door Pacific Harbor Bar & Grill (Pelayo St) have
lunch and dinner buffets and grilled meat,
seafood and Filipino mains.
On F Torres St, off Laurel St, there are
several international restaurants including
Harana Restaurant, the Mongolian Garden
and Sushi Riki Japanese restaurant.
The eateries around Santa Aa Wharf
and the Muslim Fishing Village are lively
especially in the early evening and cheap
places for fish.
S O U T H E R N M I N D A N A O A r o u n d D a v a o 391
Recto Ave), a rabbit warren of stalls with fab-
ric, batik, weavings, carvings etc. Take your

time and bargain almost every day is a
slow day for vendors. The stallholders are
also keen to change your US dollars or Japanese yen.
Victoria Plaza, Gaisano Mall and New
City Commercial Centre (NCCC) department store are the big malls in town.
(P220, eight to 10 hours to each destination), south to General Santos (P95, 3

hours) and west to Cotabato city. All longdistance bus transport is based at the Ecoland terminal 2km south of the city centre.
Manila-bound buses also leave from here.
Buses to Eagle Conservation Centre at
Calinan leave from a small terminal on the
corner of San Pedro St and E Quirino St.
Getting Around
AIR
The airport is 12km north of the city. A taxi

to the city will cost around P100. From the
city, jeepneys in the direction of Sasa go
towards the airport; youll then need to take
a tricycle to the terminal.
The station for long-distance buses is at
Ecoland, 2km south of the city centre. A
taxi there will cost about P50, a jeepney
about P5.
The airport is 11km north of the city centre.

Air Philippines, Cebu Pacific Air and
PAL fly several times a day to Davao from
Cebu (one hour).
Air Philippines flies to Iloilo City (two
hours) via Cebu.
Presently Bouraq Airlines (%233 0016) flies
between Manado and Davao once weekly.
Silk Air (%221 6430) flies to Davao from
Singapore (four hours) via Cebu on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday.
Cebu Pacific Air runs flights to Zamboanga on Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday
and Sunday (one hour).
BOAT
Most of the top-end hotels offer live music

nightly and dancing at least once a week.
Venue (%224 4150; Jacinto Extension) is a 2500sq-m club/concert hall with regular highprofile acts from Manila and Cebu.
Zirkle Disco (JP Laurel Ave), behind Victoria
Plaza, and Spams (Palma Gil St) are dance clubs
for 20-somethings. Theres also dancing at
Calzada restaurant.
If you need a dose of Western company
and food, there are a couple of expat bars
around town, including Hagars (%233 1018)
a block before the Waterfront Insular Hotel
(coming from the direction of the city), which
is famous for European sausages, salamis and
cheese. Theres good bar food, a restaurant
upstairs and live music on Friday.
Big interisland boats use the terminal at

Sasa, by the Caltex tanks 8km north of town.
This is also where boats to Paradise Island
Beach Resort on Samal Island leave. Jeepneys run here, or take a taxi for about P70.
Other boats to Samal and Talikud Islands
go from Santa Aa Wharf in town.
To Cebu City, Sulpicio Lines has boats
going via General Santos at 8pm on Sunday, and via Surigao at 7pm Wednesday.
There is a scheduled boat from Davao to
Indonesia via General Santos every Friday
from Sasa pier, but details change often;
check with the city tourism office.
SuperFerry has vessels leaving for Manila
at 11pm Monday and Wednesday (P1680 to
P5840, 31 hours); in the opposite direction
boats leave Manila for Davao at 2pm on
Monday and 10am Saturday.
Sulpicio Lines leaves Davao for Suriago
every Wednesday at 7pm.
SuperFerry has boats going to Zamboanga (P1400, 22 hours) once a week.
Shopping
BUS
If youre looking for handicrafts, shop

around at the Aldevinco Shopping Centre (CM
There are several buses daily between Davao

and Cagayan de Oro, Butuan and Surigao
Entertainment
AROUND DAVAO
Samal Island
This sizeable island only 900m east of

Davao makes a convenient weekend beach
getaway for city dwellers. Unfortunately
most of the resorts are overpriced and face
the unsightly refineries and shipping terminals just across the busy channel. A bumpy
road, only partly paved, runs along the west
coast, best navigated on the back of a motorcycle. Pearls are cultivated on a small scale
near the site of a once-lucrative pearl farm
near Kaputian, but most communities rely
on fishing for their livelihoods.
If you just want to escape the city for a
day, its easily enough arranged on your
own or through the Waterfront Insular
Hotel (opposite). There are snorkelling and
diving opportunities around the island
including two Japanese wrecks just off Pearl
Farm beach. All of the resorts charge day
fees (P50 to P75) even if you eat at their
restaurant.
SLEEPING
Pearl Farm Beach Resort (%221 9970; pearldav@

weblinq.com; r US$110-600; s) Pearl Farms villas are five-star versions of the stilt houses
of the seafaring Samal people, set in lush
grounds with private beaches and swimming pools. Diving and other water sports
can be arranged.
Paradise Island Beach Resort (r from P750) and
Chemas Resort (r from 800) offer a combination
MINDANAO & SULU
MINDANAO & SULU
390 S O U T H E R N M I N D A N A O D a v a o
392 S O U T H E R N M I N D A N A O A r o u n d D a v a o
of concrete and nipa hut cottages on a fairly

ordinary stretch of beach; these places can
get noisy and crowded on weekends. Ask
to be taken to these resorts when you first
arrive on the island.
Pumpboats go regularly to Samal from the
big Caltex tanks near Sasa pier (P7.50, 15
minutes); walk through the village market
to reach the departure point in Davao. Pearl
Farm Beach Resort can organise transfers
for their guests from Santa Aa Wharf in
Davao.
Talikud Island
This little undeveloped island is more of
an escape than Samal which lies just to its
northeast. There are some spectacular coral
gardens off its west coast and several caves
worth exploring including Bat Kingdom cave
in barangay Tambo, which affords a batseye view of hundreds of these nocturnal and
smelly creatures. Visit at dusk just before
they wake in search of food.
SLEEPING
Pacific Little Secret (%235 1325, 0917 747 7637; r

from P700) A rustic private resort just north
of Isla Reta. The two beautiful, breezy
houses are decorated with ethnic art and
sleep from two to seven. There is a gazebo
on the edge of the water, and secluded sitting areas and verandas. The bathroom is
outside and theres no electricity at night
unless you choose to pay for some petrol
for the generator. Bat Kingdom cave is only
a few minutes away.
Isla Reta (cottages P400-500) On the east coast
of the island, these are simple bamboo cottages where you can get equally simple food
(or bring your own and the staff will cook it
for a small fee). There are extensive grounds
and beaches to explore, and a fish sanctuary for snorkelling just offshore. Ask to be
taken there when you first arrive on the
island.
Boats run to Talikud five times a day from

Santa Aa Wharf in Davao (P20, one hour,
from 7am). The tiny township and jetty at
Santa Cruz is a couple of hundred metres
from Isla Reta, though most boats will drop
you off at the resort.
Eagle Conservation Centre

A must for nature lovers, the Eagle Conservation Centre (%221 2030; phileagl@info.com.ph; admission P25; h8am-5pm) at Malagos, 36km from
Davao, is the headquarters of the Philippine
Eagle Foundation, which is dedicated to conserving these endangered birds (also known
as Monkey-Eating Eagles), the largest eagle
in terms of wing span in the world.
The camp is set in a pocket of native forest, and there are enough wild birds flitting
around to keep the most avid bird-watcher
happy. There is an informative video about
eagles in the wild there are about 500 in
the Philippines and the threats they are
facing through deforestation and hunting.
The average eagle lifespan in the wild is 20
years, but its much longer at the centre.
Volunteer guides are around at weekends
to answer questions. It gets very busy though,
and if watching animals among hordes of
noisy groups isnt your thing, plan to get
here at opening time to beat the crowds.
Take a bus to Calinan (P15, 45 minutes,

every 20 minutes) from the bus terminal
on the corner of San Pedro and Quirino
Sts in Davao. Jeepneys going in that direction (southbound) can be caught anywhere along CM Recto Ave or Pichon St.
In Calinan, take a jeepney or tricycle (P5,
10 minutes).
A special ride up to the camp from Calinan will cost around P80.
Mt Apo
Literally the grandfather of all mountains,
Mt Apo is a volcano that has never blown its
top and at 2954m is the highest peak in the
Philippines, most mornings clearly visible
towering above Davao. Local tribes believe
deities reside near the summit and worship
it as a sacred mountain, but its the environmental stress caused by too much human
traffic that makes permission sometimes
difficult to obtain. The situation is fluid and
should be sussed out in the tourist office in
Davao or in Kidapawan, 110km from Davao
and the closest municipality to the starting
point for hikes to the summit. The hikes
take in primeval forests, rushing waterfalls,
and the possibility of spotting endangered
plant and animal species such as the carnivorous pitcher plants and the Philippine eagle.
S O U T H E R N M I N D A N A O G e n e r a l S a n t o s ( D a d i a n g a s ) 393
Since the climb is strenuous and the path

almost impossible to follow on your own,
youll have to visit one of these offices anyway to hire a guide. Theres no other reason
to be in Kidapawan except to arrange treks
up the mountain; the office of the Kidapawan
Tourism Council (%238 1831) is in the City Hall
on the north side of the plaza. Experienced
climbers recommend allowing a minimum
of four days, and youll need warm clothes
and sleeping gear since temperatures drop
at night near the peak. Hiking permits cost
P200, guides cost from P200 to P300 per day
excluding porter fees and necessary equipment you havent brought along.
Most people actually begin their climb
after a jeepney ride to Ilomavis and Lake
Agko where they overnight and arrange
porters before heading for Lake Venado
and the summit.
From Davao, take a bus from the Ecoland

bus terminal to Kidapawan (P70, two hours,
every 30 minutes).
From Cotabato, take a bus from Magallanes St terminal to Kidapawan (P75, three
hours, every 30 minutes).
To jump-off points for the trek, take a
jeepney from Kidapawan bus terminal to
Ilomavis, 17km away (P45, one hour, or
special trip P500).
GENERAL SANTOS (DADIANGAS)

%083 / pop 411,822
Huge ships dock at the port here on Sarangani

Bay, loading up freshly caught tuna for the
journey to dinner tables all over Asia. This
southernmost city in the Philippines, formerly called Dadiangas, was renamed in
1965 in honour of General Paulino Santos
who, with accompanying Christian Visayans
and Tagalogs, established a settlement here
in 1939. Now known as Gensan to locals,
its a congested, bustling city and while its
the tuna capital and the centre of the canning
industry, the city itself doesnt boast much to
hold the interest of travellers besides some
spots of scattered greenery and surrounding
asparagus farms and cattle ranches.
Prior to the citys establishment the area
was inhabited mostly by Maguindanao
Muslims and Blaan tribespeople, and this
history is showcased in two small museums: at the Notre Dame Dadiangas College
(NDDC), there is a museum of memorabilia

about General Santos (the person); and at
the MSU campus, near the airport, theres
a museum of Muslim and tribal culture. Both are
open during school hours.
Information
There are Internet cafs along Sergio Osmea St, and near the church on Osmea
St. The PNB by the city hall and Equitable
PCI Bank next to the Sydney Hotel on the
corner of Pioneer and Pendatunares Sts
both have ATMs and will change US dollars cash.
Festivals & Events

Kalilangan Festival Taking place from 22 to 27 February, this festival includes demonstrations of local dance,
arts and cooking, as well as a trade fair where locally
produced handicrafts are sold.
Tuna Festival Runs from 1 to 5 September when, among
other things, there is a competition for the best-dressed tuna.
Sleeping
East Asia Royale Hotel (%553 4119; royale@gslink
.net; r from P1500) Easily the best place to stay in
the city, the East Asia is a first-class business
hotel along the highway. Some of the carpets
in the rooms are deteriorating but otherwise
its hard to find better in the city.
Tboli Hotel (%552 3042; National Hwy; r P450-650)
The rooms here are good value and come
with their own private sitting rooms. A restaurant is attached.
Tierra Verde 1 (%552 4500; National Hwy; r P410810; s) Next door to Tboli Hotel, the Tierra
Verde has reasonable, clean and simple
rooms, an outdoor bar and a decent-sized
swimming pool (nonguests P50).
Cambridge Farm Hotel (%553 6310; fax 554 5614;
r P400-1000; s) If originality equalled comfort
then Cambridge Farms would be a five-star
hotel; unfortunately the rooms are cluttered
with knick-knacks and showing their age.
There is a garden bar and restaurant, pool
and not so great a mini-zoo. Its about
10 minutes out of town on the road to Koronadal (taxis P50).
Eating
NR Lechon House (Quirino St) Offers good barbecue meals.
Billabong Caf (cnr Pioneer & Pendatunares Sts) Beside the Sydney Hotel, bakes good sugar-free
Australian bread and serves Filipino food.
MINDANAO & SULU
MINDANAO & SULU
394 S O U T H E R N M I N D A N A O G e n e r a l S a n t o s ( D a d i a n g a s )
Fiesta sa Barrio, near the Gaisano Mall, is

a seafood place specialising in Filipino fish
dishes. In the same area is the Ni-moshibe, a good Japanese restaurant. The upscale
Oriental Garden Restaurant serves highquality Chinese fare.

Tambler airport is a 20-minute taxi trip
(P100) west of the city centre. PAL flies
daily from Manila to General Santos (two
hours). Air Philippines also has flights from
Manila (three hours) via Cebu.
BOAT
Makar Wharf is 4km from town beyond the

airport. A taxi will cost around P100 and
a tricycle P50.
Negros Navigation has boats bound for
Manila via Zamboanga and Iloilo on Panay,
leaving at 10pm on Thursday.
Sulpicio Lines leaves for Manila on Friday at 6pm, and for Cebu City on Monday
at 10am.
EPA Shipping Line (%380 3591; Makar Wharf )
has boats leaving Monday and Thursday
for Bitung (Manado, North Sulawesi, Indonesia; 36 hours). Schedules do change.
Officially, there is no problem with foreigners making this trip but you will need
to finalise any Indonesian visa requirements with the consulate in Davao (p389)
before leaving.
BUS
There are regular bus services running between General Santos and Davao (P95, 3
hours), Cagayan de Oro (eight to 10 hours),
Koronadal (Marbel; one hour) and Butuan
(eight to 10 hours).
The integrated bus and jeepney terminal
is at Bula-ong on the western edge of town,
about 1km from the town centre.
OLD SOLDIERS NEVER DIE OR DO THEY?

In May 2005, two Japanese soldiers who had supposedly been holding out since the end of WWII
were said to have been found in the mountains north of General Santos city. It was unclear from
news reports whether the grizzled veterans of Japans Imperial Armys 30th division now in
their 80s were aware that an armistice was declared almost 60 years ago or whether they were
in fact hiding from Allied patrols seeking to push the Japanese off the island (at the height of
its occupation Japan had over 16,000 troops in Mindanao).
Hundreds of journalists from around Asia and a small contingent of diplomats from Japan and
Manila descended on General Santos city. The fact that city officials said this sudden influx of
guests would dramatically improve the economy and that hotel occupancy rates were at their
highest in years, says something about the tourism industry in the area. News of the holdouts
caused such a sensation in Japan that Prime Minister Junchiro Koiszumi even commented publicly on the survivors.
But the story aroused suspicion from the start. After all, even if there were in fact two former
Japanese soldiers living in the jungles of Mindanao, and in addition they had started families
as it was reported, it was more than likely that they simply chose to not return home and had
made their lives in the Philippines, well aware of the twists and turns of history and war. Instead
of risking a court martial, they chose to keep quiet about their status as former combatants.
But the fact that there have been several confirmed cases of just such holdouts in the past
was enough to excite hope and curiosity. The last case was of Hiroo Oonda, who was found on
Lubang Island in the Philippines in 1974, and another soldier was discovered on the island of
Guam in the Northern Mariana Islands in 1972.
The Japanese national who reported contacting the two in Mindanao was in the area to collect
the remains of war dead, something of a national pastime, but embassy officials were reluctant
to fork over any cash to him to arrange a meeting, especially because of concerns rebels were
operating in the area outside the city where the meeting was to take place. Some reports said
the two men were living with a Muslim group, but facts were confusing and inconsistent from
the start. Reporters were reluctant to venture outside the city and most left after four days and
fruitless attempts to verify any aspect of the story, willing to write it off as an aborted shakedown
and deciding that what goes on in the jungle stays in the jungle.
LAKE SEBU
The watery bottom of a beautiful bowl, Lake
Sebu sits at an altitude of 300m, surrounded
on all sides by hills and forests, interrupted by the spokes of bamboo fish traps
and the occasional dug-out canoe slowly
skimming its placid surface. The town of
Tboli, blessed by cool mountain air, is the
ancestral home of the Tboli people who
still dress in their thickly woven traditional
clothing for ceremonial occasions. Tribespeople from surrounding communities descend on the town for the Saturday market,
and the Tboli Museum (admission P5; h7am-5pm)
on the road to Punta Isla has a small collection of locally made handicrafts, especially
brassware, beadwork and weavings. For
purchasing any of these items browse in
the many roadside souvenir stalls. You can
hire a boat for a trip on the lake, bird-watch,
and hike to nearby Seven Falls or Trangikini
Falls. A motorcycle will take you to within
about a half-hour walk of each.
The annual Lem-Lunay Festival, celebrating Tboli culture, takes place in the second
week of November, culminating in horse
fights the sport of royalty in local culture
when two stallions fight over a mare in heat;
its neither as bloody nor fatal as cockfighting (see the boxed text, p396).
There are several resorts with cottages
overlooking the lake, the best of which is
Punta Isla (%0919 485 2910; dm/cottage P150/400),
which has several rooms and one bungalow
with a terrace. The hillside restaurant specialises in fresh-cooked tilapia fish, however the daytime tranquil air is sometimes
marred by music blasted from the thatchedroof huts used for picnics during the day.
All the resorts have restaurants and get busy
on weekends.
Motorcycle rides from Tboli to the local
resorts cost between P5 and P10 depending
on distance. You can negotiate special-trip
rates of between P75 and P100 per hour.

Koronadal (Marbel) is the junction for trips
to Lake Sebu. Get there by bus from Cotabato or General Santos (P45, one hour).
Buses drop off in Koronadal on General Santos Dr at their respective terminals;
from there make your way to the L300 minivan terminals near the junction of General
Santos Dr and Alunan Ave.
S O U T H E R N M I N D A N A O L a k e S e b u 395
You can take an L300 minivan (P20, 45

minutes) or a jeepney to Surallah. At the
terminal in Surallah take a jeepney (P25,
45 minutes) or hire a motorcycle (P120, 30
minutes) to Lake Sebu.
KORONADAL (MARBEL)
pop 133,786
Most people refer to this city, the provincial capital of South Cotabato, as Marbel a
Blaan word meaning murky waters the
name you will see on most public transport
heading here. Historically, its linked to the
animist Blaan people and Maguindanao
Muslims, though now the population is predominantly Christian. Theres a small museum
(Alunan Ave) in the Gymnasium and Cultural
Centre showcasing Tboli culture and the
museums benefactors equally. Koronadal is
the jump-off point for trips to Lake Sebu.
Marvella Plaza (%/fax 228 2063; General Santos
Dr; r P550-950; s) is easily the best hotel in
town, though this isnt saying a whole lot
since the basic rooms are crying out for
attention. Noise can be a problem because
of the KTV bar attached.
There are regular bus services from General Santos (P40, one hour) and from Cotabato (three hours). Make a connection here
for Lake Sebu via Surallah.
COTABATO
%064 / pop 150,450
Rarely visited even by residents of nearby

Davao, Cotabato has a reputation, considered unjust by locals, that owes as much
simply to its location in the middle of the
ARMM as to the disproportionate number
of violent incidents. Though it has seen its
fair share, the incidents are few and far between. This city of the Maguindanao people
lies on the Rio Grande de Mindanao, often
called the Pulangi River. Maguindanao is
a compilation of the local words for kin,
country and lake, so literally they are people of the lake country. Islam is the oldest religion here, introduced in 1475, with
Christianity a comparatively recent arrival,
brought in by Jesuits in 1871.
Around the city itself, head up Piedro Colina
Hill for good views of the city and coast.
At the foot of the hill lies Kutang Bato Cave,
which is, bizarrely, right in the middle of a
busy road intersection; inside are saltwater
pools, an underground river and bats.
MINDANAO & SULU
MINDANAO & SULU
AIR
396 Z A M B OA N G A P E N I N S U L A
What do Guangxi in China, southeast Sulawesi in Indonesia, Cheju Island in South Korea and
Mindanao have in common? They are the only places left in the world where horses still fight or
more accurately where two stallions are provoked into fighting for an audience. While defenders
say this is merely a tradition in the southern Philippines, part of the culture of indigenous peoples
like the Bagobo, others (like the producers of the Free Willy movies, who have sent letters of
protest to the Department of Tourism) say the rampant gambling that takes place at the fights
points to more mercenary interests than the preservation of tribal culture.
The mayor of Davao banned the contests from the citys annual Kadayawan sa Dabow Festival
in 2005 (they were still held at the Pangapog festival on Samal, the Dorong festival in Digos city,
and in Padigian, among other places), though in general the government has shown a lack of
resolve in addressing the issue. Of course, it would certainly open itself up to charges of hypocrisy as long as cock fighting is still allowed, since the latter is more violent, at least in that the
horses arent killed, but just kick and bite until the other refuses to continue. The victor wins the
opportunity to mate with a mare in heat.
The Cotabato City Hall has an interesting

faade of mostly Islamic influence.
A couple of kilometres out of town youll
find the Regional Autonomous Government Centre, which houses a museum (h9am-4pm) and
is the seat of government for the ARMM.
Information
The PNB has an ATM and will change US
dollars.
Infotech (S Pendatun Ave; per hr P30; h8am-8pm)
Mami King (Don Rufino Alonzo St) Tasty Filipino

fast food, with a good bakery attached.
Also recommended is the Pacific Heights
Hotel (%421 2249; Don TV Juliano Ave; r from P1200).

AIR
PAL (%421 2086) has flights daily to and from

Manila (1 hours). The airport is around
10km south of town.
Internet access.
BOAT
Tourist Office (%421 7804) In the old Provincial
There are two wharf areas in Cotabato. Boats

to Pagadian (P185, six hours, nightly) go
from the wharf right in the centre of town.
Interisland boats, and boats to Zamboanga
(several times a week), leave from Polloc Pier,
24km away. A jeepney there costs P15.
Capitol Building on Piedro Colina Hill.
Festivals & Events

Araw ng Kutabato Festival Held in mid-June; with its
mammoth dance parades its is a cultural highlight.
Shariff Kabungsuan Festival A December event that
commemorates the arrival of Islam in the region and
involves river parades of decorated boats.
Sleeping & Eating

City Plaza Hotel (%421 9148; Makakua St; r P300-700)
Newer and brighter than El Corazon Hotel,
but a bit noisy.
Hotel Castro (%421 7523; fax 421 6404; Sinsuat St; r
P550-850) Has small rooms, but friendly staff
and a small, quiet coffee shop. There is a
good Filipino fast-food restaurant and there
are fruit stalls opposite.
Estosan Garden Hotel (%421 6777; fax 421 5488;
Governor Gutierrez Blvd; r from P1440; s) A couple of
kilometres out of town, next to the Regional
Autonomous Government Centre. There is
a pool (nonguests P100) and a pleasant coffee shop.
BUS & MINIVAN
Regular buses run daily between Davao and

Cotabato (P170, five hours). There are no
direct buses from General Santos and Koronadal. You have to take a bus to Tacurong
(P20, 45 minutes) and then an L300 minivan to Cotabato (P70, 1 hours).
ZAMBOANGA
PENINSULA
Considered risky for foreign travellers (as
much because of common robbery as the
threat of violence connected to fighting
between government troops and separatist
groups or kidnapping), this long append-
Z A M B OA N G A P E N I N S U L A Z a m b o a n g a 397
age to the bulk of Mindanao is shaped like

a downward-pointing finger. Only Zamboanga city at the very western tip sees a
trickle of travellers, almost all of whom fly
here from other parts of the islands.
MONEY
ZAMBOANGA
%062 / pop 700,000
Despite an exotic-sounding name and the

fact that its usually the dateline foreign newspapers use for any incident in Mindanao,
Zamboanga city resembles, physically at
least, most other Philippine cities. Theres a
downtown mall, fast-food restaurants and a
bustling market and waterfront. The differences are slight, even though the city is 70%
Muslim, most women according to an informal study, they are the tallest in the country dont wear headscarves and modern
fashions are as strong here as elsewhere. The
most commonly spoken language is Chabacano, a Spanish-Creole made up of Malay
grammar and unconjugated Spanish verbs,
and Spanish speakers will find themselves
understanding much of what they hear.
The city is a magnet for migrants from
the Sulu archipelago which means Zamboanga is constantly absorbing an eclectic
mix of peoples and cultures, just as it has
done for its long history since Islam arrived in the 1400s. There are three possible
derivations of the citys name. It may come
from the 16th-century Malay word jambangan, meaning land of flowers, or from
samboangan, a docking point, identified
in an early Spanish map. Its origin may also
lie in sabuan, the wooden pole used by local
tribespeople to navigate their vintas shallow draft sailboats over the coastal flats.
Zamboanga, which has seen its fair share
of violence, is the headquarters of Southcom, the Philippine Armys Southern Command post, and the military and police
presence is noticeable.
Information
INTERNET ACCESS
There are a bunch of Internet cafs in the

city centre.
RMH Internet (Almonte St) Near the town centre.
Sip & Surf Internet (h7am-10pm; per hr P15) The
nicest of the Internet cafs, on the second floor of a building in the bustle on La Purisma St.
Zalo Web Point (hMon-Sat) If youre staying near the
airport, use this place, at the top of Mayor Jaldon St.
The PNB and BPI around the plaza area

and the Metrobank on La Purisma St have
ATMs and change US dollars. The Mindpro
City Mall also has an ATM.
BPI (Valderoza St) Theres another branch on Mayor
Jaldon St.
Landbank (Valderoza St) Theres another branch on Pablo

Lorenzo St.
PNB (cnr Valderoza St & Pablo Lorenzo St)

TOURIST INFORMATION
City Tourism Office (%992 3007; www.zamboanga

.com; Valderoza St; h8am-noon & 1-5pm Mon-Sat) Next
to the Lantaka Hotel; ask for Bernard C Gregorio. Theres a
less helpful second office (%992 3007; h8am-noon
& 1-5pm), just a desk with maps, a block from Rizal Park.
Sights
Fort Pilar (at the southeastern end of town
near the waterfront) is a solid and squat
building, partially and sympathetically restored, and its chequered history reads like
this: founded by the Spaniards in 1635; attacked by the Dutch in 1646; deserted in
1663; reconstructed in 1666; rebuilt in 1719;
stormed by 3000 Moros in 1720; cannonaded by the British in 1798; abandoned by
the Spaniards in 1898; occupied by the US
in 1899; seized by the Japanese in 1942; and,
finally, claimed by the Philippines in 1946.
Inside is a museum (h8.30am-noon & 1.305pm Sun-Fri), with several impressive galleries,
an exhibition of 18th- and 19th-century
prints and contemporary paintings, and
another with drawings of churches around
the country. The marine exhibit, where you
can learn about marine ecosystems and animals, includes some sophisticated displays.
Across the inner courtyard of the fort is a
terrific ethnographic gallery concentrating on
the boat-dwelling Sama Dilaut (otherwise
known as the Badjao, or sea gypsies) of the
Sulu archipelago. Walk around the ramparts
for 360-degree views of Zamboanga city
and the busy ocean. On the forts outer wall
is an altar and shrine to the Virgin of Pilar
and candle-sellers providing the individual
bunches of thin, coloured candles that are
burned at the shrine.
East of Fort Pilar is the Muslim stilt
village of Rio Hondo; its mosque is a clear
landmark visible from the ramparts of the
fort. The village is built out over the edge
of the water, and the houses are joined by
MINDANAO & SULU
MINDANAO & SULU
WHEN HORSES FIGHT
To Mosque;
Rio Hondo
(200m)
E4
D4
D4
D3
30
4
16
St
s St
Rizal St
Vald
eroza
St
V Alvare
z
31
Plaza
Pershing
20
To Wharf
(50m)
18
City Hall
Go
28
JS Alano St
19
26
22
8
24
San Jos Rd 29
14
13
Varela Street
St
wa
Blvd
aw
a C
a
Str
n
sila
Ba
n
Do
Athletic
Field
ait
Justic
TOP END
The citys main festival is the Fiesta de

Nuestra Seora Virgen del Pilar, taking place
from 10 to 12 October. It is a Christian
festival, but is also a great opportunity for
street parties, parades, dances, markets and
food fairs, and its enjoyed by all the community. It also has a big regatta that brings
vintas (wooden boats with traditional brilliantly coloured angular cloth sails) out on
the water.
Sleeping
BUDGET & MIDRANGE
Grand Astoria Hotel (%991 2510; info@grandastoria

.com; Mayor Jaldon St; s P650-750, d P950-1300; as)
Easily the best of the midrange hotels, the

Astoria is professionally run and the clean,
comfortable rooms have all the modern
amenities. There are airline ticketing offices on the ground floor.
Hotel Perlita (%993 0990; hperlita@jetlink.com
.ph; r from P820; a) The Perlita is next door
to the Astoria and shares the same central
location, though its rooms are not as nicely
furnished. Theres a rooftop restaurant and
bar with excellent views.
Azenith Royale Hotel (%991 2023; www.zam
Across the Marcian Garden close to the airport, but a tricycle ride into the city centre,
the Azenith Royale has clean if bare rooms
with tile floors. Theres a pleasant caf and
restaurant.
Hotel Preciosa (%991 2020; fax 993 0055; Mayor
Jaldon St; r P680-1000; a) Near the city centre,
there are good-sized, clean if dull rooms
here, and lazy catfish drifting in the atrium
pool.
Platinum 21 Pension House (%991 2514; plati
num@jetlink.com.ph; 34 Barcelona St; r from P620; a)
To Yakan Weaving Village (7km);

La Vista Del Mar Beach Resort (7km)
17
12
eR
T L
im
Bl
vd
11 Camins Rd)
ernor
(Gov
Rd
rt
Airpo
St
Navarro
footbridges. The tourist office doesnt recommend wandering around Rio Hondo
without an escort because of the risk of
petty crime, and the footpaths can be tricky
to navigate. If there is an officer on duty
at the bridge, he will likely be able to accompany you.
Justice RT Lim Blvd, just beyond the main
port area, is busy at sunset with families
walking, kids swimming, people fishing and
boating, and food stalls and hawkers.
boanga.net/AzenithRoyalHotel.htm; s/d P825/935; a )
(C
27
Bu
21
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av
ist
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Mayor Jaldon
io
32 Villa
Lobo
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To
23
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15
2
Calixto St
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25
Legionnair
Zamboanga
General
Hospital
Av
Lim
Cl
St
et
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Ba
Airport
General
33
Pilar St
St
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Av
Santa
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Santa Maria S
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ZAMBOANGA
e St
10
TRANSPORT
Boats to Santa Cruz................30
Ferry terminal........................31
Jeepneys to Pasonanca.......... 32
Jeepneys to Taluksangay....... 33
SHOPPING
Public Market........................28 C4
Zamboanga Home Products
Store..................................29 C3
SLEEPING
Azenith Royale Hotel..............11 B1
Garden Orchid Hotel..............12 A1
Grand Astoria Hotel...............13 C3
Hotel Perlita...........................14 C3
Hotel Preciosa........................15 C3
Lantaka Hotel.........................16 E4
Marcian Garden Hotel &
Convention Centre.............17 A1
Platinum 21 Pension House...18 D3
Village Zamboanga..............(see 12)
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

Fort Pilar.................................10 E4
To Alavar Seafood
House (1km)
EATING
Chowking..............................19 C4
Fish Market............................20 C4
Hai-san Restaurant.................21 B3
Hana Sono...........................(see 12)
Jollibee...................................22 C3
Lotus Restaurant..................(see 13)
Mindpro City Mall.................23 C3
Puericulture Livelihood
Center...............................24 C3
Shamba Grill...........................25 B1
Sunflower Food Centre..........26 C3
Village Zamboanga..............(see 12)
Zamboanga Seafood
House............................. 27 B3
La
St
do
r
yo
rez
INFORMATION
BPI...........................................1 D4
BPI...........................................2 C3
City Tourism Office................. 3 D4
Landbank.................................4 E4
Landbank................................5 D3
PNB......................................... 6 D4
RMH Internet..........................7 D3
Sip & Surf Internet...................8 C3
Tourist Office......................(see 16)
Zalo Web Point........................9 B1
ve
St
Alva
To Bus
Terminal
Go
ma
ris
Pu
Alejo
0
0
To Climaco Freedom Park (7km); C

Pasonanca Park (7km)
ins Rd)
r Cam
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St
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Ba
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Z A M B OA N G A P E N I N S U L A Z a m b o a n g a 399
Festivals & Events
era St
era
Corcu
MINDANAO & SULU
te S
ust
RL
St
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us
On a busy street in the heart of the city, the

rooms are clean if a little dark.
La Vista Del Mar Beach Resort (%991 3038; Upper

Calarian; cottages from P1500; a) This resort, just
past the Yakan weaving village west of the
city, has three large and truly unique treehouses with the trunk taking centre stage
in the living room. It also offers 10 wellmaintained cottages with private balconies,
a small enclosed swimming area and a
pleasant restaurant.
Garden Orchid Hotel (%991 0031; fax 991 0035;
Governor Camins Rd; s/d from P3000/3700; ais)
Near Marcian Garden Hotel, Garden Orchid is an international-standard business

hotel with good facilities including a big
pool, but not much character. Theres live
music most nights in the ground floor bar.
The Tropical Spa (%992 6718l; h9am-midnight;
body massage 1hr P500) is attached.
Lantaka Hotel (%991 2033; fax 991 1626; s/d from
P875/1045; as) Ageing but full of character,
the waterfront Lantaka is like a fading starlet
that has seen better days. The big rooms
have balconies and great views and theres a
nice garden and a pool. At least treat yourself to a drink on the terrace at sunset.
Also recommended is the Marcian Garden
Hotel & Convention Centre (%991 2519; fax 991
1874; Governor Camins Rd; r from P860; as).
Eating
Hana Sono (%991 0040; Governor Camins Rd; sushi P140)
Good Japanese food is served at Hana Sono,
a restaurant with bright, simple dcor in the
basement of the Garden Orchid Hotel.
Shamba Grill (%992 2791; Governor Camins Rd;
dishes P150; hto 4am) This outdoor garden
restaurant near the airport hotels is charmingly festooned with lanterns at night.
Crabs (P280), squid (P195) and barbecue
dishes are on the menu.
Hai-san Restaurant (%991 5506; San Jos Rd;
meals P200) Serves Chinese-style seafood. Pick
your own from the display on ice.
Puericulture Livelihood Centre (La Purisma St)
This place has a large selection of cheap and
tasty Filipino fish and vegetable dishes.
Village Zamboanga (Governor Camins Rd) Next
to the Garden Orchid Hotel on the airport
road, offers Filipino-style outdoor eating in
a decent beer garden with live music.
Zamboanga Seafood House (San Jos Rd) and Alavar Seafood House (Barangay Tetuan) are friendly,
busy places for grilled or barbecue catches
of the day.
MINDANAO & SULU
Vet
P Burg
500 m
0.3 miles
398 Z A M B OA N G A P E N I N S U L A Z a m b o a n g a
Zamboanga
400 Z A M B OA N G A P E N I N S U L A Z a m b o a n g a
Sunflower Food Centre, between La Purisma and Urdaneta Sts, is a bustling Filipino
fast-food restaurant. There is a food court
and several fast-food joints in the Mindpro
City Mall and a Jollibee and Chowking on
Mayor Jaldon St.
SEAIR flies to Jolo (daily) and Tawi-Tawi

(daily except Friday and Sunday). South
Phoenix Airlines also services the same
destinations.
Zamboanga Home Products store (cnr San Jos & Mayor

Jaldon Sts) Sells lots of rather ordinary souvenirs and some interesting, good-quality
carvings, basketwork and woven fabrics.
The market on the waterfront has cheap
clothing and batik from Malaysia and Indonesia. The Mindpro City Mall is in the
centre of town.
About 7km out of Zamboanga heading
west, the Yakan Weaving Village is really no
more than a collection of six or seven stalls
selling some good Yakan weavings like table
runners and place mats, a little brassware,
and lots of ordinary Indonesian and Malaysian mass-produced batik. Yakan are the
indigenous people of nearby Basilan Island,
and their woven designs are characterised
by bright colours and geometric designs.

Though its a part of the peninsula of the
same name, few travellers venture to Zamboanga overland and most arrive by plane.
However, for the intrepid and patient who
want to travel throughout northern Mindanao before visiting the city, its possible
to get either a fast ferry (four hours) or bus
(eight hours) in the town of Pagadian in
the far north of Zamboanga del Sur; though
neither is recommended, the boat likely
presents fewer safety risks.
George & Peter Lines leaves for Cebu City

via Dumaguete on Negros once weekly, and
to Cebu weekly via Dapitan on Mindanao
and Dumaguete.
SuperFerry has weekly runs to Davao
(P1400, nine hours) and General Santos
(P1400, 12 hours). Smaller boats also run
daily to Cotabato. Sulpicio Lines has boats
leaving for General Santos weekly.
SuperFerry leaves every Monday for Iloilo (P1400, 12 hours).
SRN Fastcraft (% 992 3765) has Weesam
Express boats leaving every Monday and
Thursday to Sandakan (P5400, eight hours).
Aleson Lines (%991 2687; Veterans Ave) is a slower,
cheaper option. Boats leave Zamboanga
for Sandakan in Malaysian Borneo twice
weekly (cabin P3600, 16 hours).
SuperFerry has boats leaving for Manila
(P2400, 48 hours) twice a week. Negros
Navigation and Sulpicio Lines boats leave
for Manila once weekly, going via Iloilo on
Panay. The trip takes about 32 hours.
BUS
If you must travel by road, buses to Zamboanga run several times daily until late
morning from Dipolog (air-con P220, eight
hours) and Iligan (12 hours). But it really
is not advisable to travel to Zamboanga
by road (see Dangers & Annoyances on
p370).
Getting Around
AIR
TO/FROM THE AIRPORT
PAL flies from Manila to Zamboanga (1

hours) at the ungodly hour of 5am daily,
and there is another flight at 3pm daily.
Other flights are with Cebu Pacific Air and
Air Philippines.
Air Philippines and Cebu Pacific Air flies
to/from Cebu five days a week (one hour).
Cebu Pacific Air also flies to and from
Davao, on Monday, Wednesday, Friday and
Sunday.
South Phoenix Airlines (%991 5688) has a direct flight every Thursday and Sunday between Zamboanga and Kota Kinabalu and
Sandakan, Malaysia.
The airport is 2km from the centre of Zamboanga. Walk out of the arrivals hall and
catch a public tricycle for P7, or take a special trip for P30 to P40. Taxis cost around
P50. From town you can take a jeepney
marked Canelar-Airport for P5.
TRICYCLE, JEEPNEY & BUS
The flat fare around town is P5 by tricycle

and jeepney. Special trips by tricycle cost
around P100 per hour.
If youre determined to travel north by
bus, the terminal is near the Santa Cruz
market on the outskirts of town.
Z A M B OA N G A P E N I N S U L A A r o u n d Z a m b o a n g a 401
AROUND ZAMBOANGA
Taluksangay
pop 6783
This is a Muslim settlement about 20km

northeast of Zamboanga city. Like Rio
Hondo, its built partially out over the water
and a mosque with red minarets (the oldest
on the Zamboanga Peninsula) dominates
the skyline. Though its considered less
problematic for visitors than Rio Hondo,
the same sort of unwritten rules for visitors
apply here; wear appropriate clothing and
ask if you want to take photos. Taluksangay
is on the organised day-tour route from
Zamboanga, so local people are used to visitors and can be quite forceful in asking for
money. Jeepneys go to Taluksangay (P25,
35 minutes).
Santa Cruz & Sacol Islands

Great Santa Cruz Island is around 7km off
the Zamboanga waterfront, and is home to
small fishing communities. Visitors come
to see the 2km-long pinkish beach, coloured from finely crushed red coral, the
actual red colour only really visible if you
scoop up a bit in the palm of your hand.
You can swim here, but its on a busy shipping channel and currents are strong. There
are a number of good reef dives and snorkelling spots in the area; the optimal time
is from April to October. Contact Freedom
Dellos of Coral Divers Den (%0919 567 3772;
coraldiver@hotmail.com; 749 Farmers Dr, Governor Ramos
Ave, Santa Maria, Zamboanga).
Boats for the island leave from the waterfront between the Lantaka Hotel and Fort
Pilar in Zamboanga; a return trip costs
about P600 in a pumpboat (one way 20
minutes) for up to six people. Bring your
own food and water.
Sacol Island is not generally visited by
tourists and is undeveloped except for fishing villages. If there are security concerns
with NPA or MNLF splinter groups, they
are focused on the hinterlands and not on
the coastal areas, though youll find that
the beaches are often guarded by armed
soldiers. You must get permission to visit
the island from the tourist office in Zamboanga (p397) and boats for Sacol leave
from the wharf in the barangay of Manikan
(jeepney P50).
Little Santa Cruz Island is a military base
that is occasionally open to the public.
OZAMIS
%088 / pop 110,420
While Ozamis is not the provincial capital

of Misamis Occidental, it has a capital-city
feel to it and is bigger and busier than the
capital, Oroquieta.
It has a busy port area and compact central commercial area, but not much else
to hold a travellers interest. Royal Garden
Hotel (%521 2888; fax 521 0008; r from P750) is the
best choice in town, with a good restaurant
and Filipino fast-food outlet attached. Palace
Hotel (%521 0573; fax 521 3240; r P500-900; a) has
decent rooms with TVs.
Ozamis is the starting point for trips to
Mt Malindang National Park, which boasts excellent hiking through gorges, rivers, grasslands and dense forests and the chance to
spot tarsiers, flying lemurs and rare birds in
the wild. There are four peaks in the park,
the highest is 2404m, though no trails reach
this summit. The ranger station is near Tangub from where its only a few kilometres to
the park entrance at Hoyahoy.

Buses run every 15 minutes to and from
Iligan (P45, 1 hours), Pagadian, Dipolog
and Oroquieta (P35, 1 hours). All buses go
from an integrated transport terminal, which
is a tricycle ride (P10) from the port.
Ferries run constantly between Kolambugan (an hours drive south of Iligan) to
Ozamis, and all buses use this service. The
cost of the boat ride (P8.50, 25 minutes)
is in addition to the bus fare and is collected on board the ferry. Negros Navigation boats leave for Manila via Iloilo, Panay,
once a week (43 hours). Cebu Ferries depart
for Cebu daily (11 hours), except Monday
and Friday. There are boats from Bacolod
to Ozamis.
OROQUIETA
pop 59,850
Oroquieta is a sleepy riverside town and

seems an unlikely setting for the provincial
capital of Misamis Occidental. The market
comes alive in the late afternoon, when the
fishing fleet has delivered the days catch.
If you do overnight check out Sheenas
Hotel (%531 1158; Barrientos St; r with fan/air-con from
P250/650; a), a rambling old house with a
garden and restaurant, but on a noisy stretch
of road. Casa Kristina Hotel (%/fax 531 1272;
MINDANAO & SULU
MINDANAO & SULU
Shopping
BOAT
402 Z A M B OA N G A P E N I N S U L A B a l i a n g a o W e t l a n d Pa r k
Barrientos St; r P400-600) is 200m further along
DAPITAN
from Sheenas. The hotel has direct river

frontage and a good restaurant with a balcony over the water.
pop 68,180
All buses from Ozamis to Dipolog (and vice

versa) go via Oroquieta (P30, one hour).
Get off the bus at the petrol station in town
on the way through, rather than at the bus
terminal on the outskirts.
BALIANGAO WETLAND PARK

This small but great spot is way off the
beaten track, with mangrove-lined river
estuaries to explore, good snorkelling offshore beside the marine protected area, and
white-sand beaches a short boat ride away.
The only noise youll hear is birdsong and
the occasional fishing boat.
This is a community-based initiative
of four simple bamboo and nipa cottages
and a meeting and eating shelter, all powered by solar energy (not a radio or TV in
sight). If you like your creature comforts,
you may wish to just make a day trip, and
overnighters should be prepared for lots
of mosquitoes (nets are provided in the
cottages).
There are four cottages (P300, or per person P75)
that sleep up to six people each and a camp
site (per person P20), though you have to bring
your own tent. A boat to go snorkelling
(bring your own equipment) costs P150 for
half a day; a 30-minute tour upriver costs
P150; and a boat ride to Sunrise Beach for
swimming costs P200 for half a day. Its
best to ring a day or so ahead, especially
as the cottages can occasionally be full of
students on field trips. Contact the NGO
Pipuli (%521 1928, weekends %0918 490 2476; fax
521 1992; Ozamis).

Get a bus from Dipolog (P30, 1 hours)
or Oroquieta (P25, one hour) to Calamba.
Here, its easiest to take a special trip by
tricycle to the park, which with a couple
of hours waiting time will cost about P200
return. Entrance to the park is about 2km
down a bumpy track, impassable to vehicles when wet. At the end of the track
walk 400m or so along a series of boardwalk bridges through mangrove forest to
the park buildings.
A clean and relatively green city on the edge

of a wide bay, Dapitan is a better choice
than Dipolog if youre staying in the area.
The city is full of memorials to its most
famous temporary resident, the national
hero Jos Rizal, who lived in exile here
from 1892 until shortly before his death
in 1896. During that time he designed the
towns waterworks, practised as a doctor
and natural scientist, and taught local boys.
The Rizal Museum in Talisay, just over the
bridge from Dapitan, is where Rizal lived.
The main building houses a collection of
Rizal memorabilia, and in the grounds are
beautifully crafted, life-size bamboo and
nipa replicas of the house, clinic, school
and chicken house where Rizal lived.
Aliguay Island, a white-sand island with
good coral, is a 45-minute bangka ride from
Dapitan.
Sleeping & Eating

Dakak Park Beach Resort (%/fax 212 5932; r P800012,000; s) On Dakak Bay, about 15 minutes
from Dapitan by road or 40 minutes by boat,
this is the absolute top of the range in terms
of quality and price. It offers a private beach,
golf course, horse riding, water sports and
diving, and comfortable rooms and cottages.
Guests are transferred to the resort by hotel
transport, but other visitors need to ride an
extended motorcycle (P100 return, depending on waiting time) from Dapitan. Nonguests
can have day use of the resort beach
but not the swimming pools for P200.
Dapitan City Resort Hotel (%/fax 213 6542; Sunset Blvd; r from P1200; s) Has full water frontage
and all rooms have balconies. There is a
pool that nonguests can use for P75, and a
nice-looking restaurant.
Aplaya Vida Lodge (Sunset Blvd; r P450; a) Consists of simple air-con rooms in a nice old
wooden house. Across the road is a seafood
restaurant affiliated with the lodge.
Corazon de Dapitan has very good Filipino dishes served on the ground floor of
a beautiful old two-storey building on the
corner of the plaza.

From Dipolog catch an RBS minivan (P12,
30 minutes) from the RBS stand on General
Luna St, opposite the high school.
Palauan Port is halfway between Dipolog

and Dapitan, about 2km off the highway.
Ask the RBS minivan to drop you at the
turn-off, and then take a tricycle (P5) to the
port. The tricycles wait interminably for a
total of eight passengers, so you might want
to pay for an extra couple of places so that
you can get going.
To Manila, SuperFerry and Sulpicio Lines
have boats once a week (P2000, 40 hours).
Delta Fast Ferries services, George &
Peter Lines and SuperCat leave daily for
Dumaguete and Negros. SuperCat has connecting boats to Cebu.
DIPOLOG
%065 / pop 99,860
Dipolog (dee-poh-lohg) is the capital of

Zamboanga del Norte, and has a busy
town centre just off the waterfront. If youre
in an energetic mood you can climb the
many, many steps of the Stations of the Cross
to Linabo Park. At 486m above sea level,
this lookout gives a good view of Dipolog
and its neighbouring city of Dapitan. Sicayab
Beach is a fine grey-sand beach about 4km
from town, and further out is the Pamansalan Oisca Forest Park & Waterfall.
A few hundred metres along General
Luna St, heading out of town, is the Hotel
Camila (%/fax 212 3008; r from P500; a), with
well-furnished and comfortable rooms, but
make sure you have a room on the opposite
side from the church unless you want the
early-morning mass for a wake-up call. A
Sunburst Chicken Restaurant is attached.
Top Plaza Hotel (%212 5777; fax 212 5788; r P8251540) is another option, also with a good
restaurant.
Pizza Deli (Festival Shopping Arcade) in the fruit
and vegetable market has a real pizza oven
and lots of tourist information on the walls.

PAL flies from Manila to Dipolog (P4000,
two hours) several days a week.
Dipologs Palauan Port is technically in
the nearby city of Dapitan, though geographically its halfway between the two.
Details of boats to and from Palauan are
on opposite.
Regular buses link Dipolog with Ozamis
via Oroquieta (P85, 3 hours). They drop
off right in town on General Luna St. Southbound buses to Zamboanga (P220, eight to
S U LU I S L A N D S H i s t o r y 403
10 hours) leave from the Satellite bus terminal on the southern edge of town.
SULU ISLANDS
Despite the mellifluous-sounding name, the
500 or so islands of the Sulu archipelago,
stretching some 300km from Basilan to Borneo, have become synonymous with the conflict between government troops and Muslim
separatist groups. The archipelago is divided
into two provinces: Sulu, with its capital of
Jolo (ho-lo), and Tawi-Tawi, with Bongao as
its capital. It is further subdivided into the
Jolo, Tawi-Tawi, Tapul, Papiantana and Pangutaran and Sibutu groups of islands.
The rather isolated Cagayan de TawiTawi Group lies off the coast of Borneo,
midway between Palawan and the Sulu archipelago. These are still dangerous waters
for sailors, less because of the elements than
because of pirates and smugglers. Smaller
passenger vessels as well as cargo boats are
regularly plundered in these seas.
About 94% of the archipelagos population is Muslim, and this area is part of the
ARMM. However, culturally the region is
dominated by the Tausugs, or people of
the current. In and around Tawi-Tawi, the
Samal people live in stilt houses by the coast.
Terminology for the people of the region can
be confusing. Sama is a generic term covering four distinct groups of people, sharing
the Sama language, who inhabit the islands
south of the Jolo Group; the Sama Talon,
Sama Gimba, Sama Laut and Sama Pala peoples. The Sama Laut, meaning sea Sama and
often referred to in English as sea gypsies,
are generally referred to as Badjao, though
they themselves do not use this term.
There are still communities of Badjao
living on boats in the southern part of the
archipelago, but many now live on permanent sites, either in stilt houses or on their
boats at moorings. Although most Badjao
are Muslim, animist beliefs and practices
are still observed. Sitangkai, in the Sibutu
Group, is known as the Venice of the Philippines, as many Badjao floating communities have settled there.
History
The people of Sulu were the first in the
Philippines to be converted to Islam in the
MINDANAO & SULU
MINDANAO & SULU
14th century. It remained a stronghold of

Islam during the Spanish era and in the
early 20th century it was the scene of
pitched battles between US forces and the
tough local Tausug people. Later, during
WWII, local people joined with the US liberating forces against occupying Japanese
troops. During 1974 the MNLF, opposed
to the imposition of martial law, fought
fiercely against government forces in and
around Jolo.
Climate
The islands are fortunate to be outside the
typhoon belt, but precipitation is constant
throughout the year and January to April
is considered the dry period with relatively
0
0
SULU ISLANDS
50 km
30 miles
To Zamboanga
To
Zamboanga
Tuburan
Lamitan
Isabela
Basilan
Island
Maluso
TAPIANTANA
GROUP
Pilas
Island
Balanguingui
Island
SULU SEA
Panamao
Patikul
Luuk JOLO
GROUP
Talipao
PANGUTARAN
Jolo
GROUP
Jolo
Island
Pata Island
Maimbung
Parang
Kabingaan Island
Tapul Island
TAPUL GROUP
Lugus Island Siasi
Sasi Sasi
Lapac
Island
Island
Pandungan
Island
Cap Island
Bubuan
Island
Laparan
Island
CELEBES
SEA
Tandubatu Island
TAWI-TAWI
GROUP
Tawi-Tawi
Island
Sanga
Sanga
Island
Panglima Sugala
Bongao
Manuk Mankaw
Bongao
Simunul Island
Island
Island
Sibutu SIBUTU
Island GROUP
Sitangkai
WARNING
Most foreign embassies advise against any
travel to the Sulu Islands, though Tawi-Tawi,
Simunul, and Sitangkai are considered safe
by those who know the region. Travel to
Basilan and Jolo are cautioned against
outright.
less rainfall. February is the coolest month,

but temperatures average around 26C.

All scheduled access to the Sulu archipelago
is from Zamboanga.
SEAIR (%062 991 2225; www.flyseair.com) flies
between Zamboanga and Jolo daily. SangaSanga airport in Bongao, Tawi-Tawi, is also
serviced by SEAIR with five flights weekly
from Zamboanga (P2700).
SKT Lines and Sampaguita Lines (%993
1591) are two of the bigger companies running vessels to the Sulu archipelago. Both
run a similar schedule. Sampaguita Lines
has boats twice weekly stopping at Jolo,
Bongao, Siasi and Sitangkai, and twice
weekly for Jolo and Bongao only.
the second week of October. There is a small

museum in the old Spanish fort near Bongao.
Local people were instrumental in helping
American forces to land and liberate the area
from the Japanese in WWII, and Westerners
here are called Milikan, a local distortion of
American. A busy market sells everything
from bolo knives to turtle eggs eaten for their
supposed powers as an aphrodisiac.
There are several simple lodgings in Bongao. Beachside Inn (%268 1446; r P500) is near
the harbour. Kasulutan Beach Resort (r P350) is
2km out of town.
Simunol Island
This island is only a few minutes away from
Sitangkai Island, the Venice of the Phil-

S U LU I S L A N D S Ta w i -Ta w i G r o u p 405
ippines. The Sheik Karimul Makdum Mosque,

built in 1380, is one of the oldest mosques
in the archipelago. All that remains from
the original are four carved pillars while
the existing modern version is c 1980. The
residents of Simunol Island have multiethnic features, as they are descendants of
the Arab and Japanese traders who found
wives here. There are no hotels to stay in
but you can contact the Provincial Tourism
Office to arrange homestay accommodation. A private ferry from Bongao plus a
jeepney tour around the island should cost
around P2500. Regular ferries leave Bongao
for Simunol daily around noon (P20, one
hour); they return from Simunol to Bongao
at 8am.
TAWI-TAWI GROUP
This group of over 300 islands is about as
far away as you can get from Manila and
still be in the Philippines. More than half
the land area qualifies as shorefront partially submerged during high tide, which
is why most of the people live in homes
on stilts linked to one another by narrow
catwalks. Only declared a separate province
from Sulu in 1973, the dearth of visitors
journeying out here means you will likely
receive celebrity attention.
Bongao
The capital of Tawi-Tawi province derives
its name from the Tausug word bangaw,
meaning heron. Today Bongaos wildlife
is less famous for herons than for monkeys in great numbers on Mt Bongao, a sheer
mountainous outcrop behind the township.
Theres an hours hiking trail to the summit
at 314m, with a royal Muslim burial site at the
top (dress appropriately if you want to visit)
and good views across the island chain. This
sacred mountain is the site of a festival celebrated by Muslims and Christians alike in
MINDANAO & SULU
MINDANAO & SULU
404 S U LU I S L A N D S Ta w i -Ta w i G r o u p
Sulu Islands

406
Palawan
PA L A W A N 407
0
0
PALAWAN
Palawan
100 km
60 miles
To Manila
To Manila
MINDORO
ORIENTAL
Mamburao
Santa Cruz
MINDORO
OCCIDENTAL
Sablayan
in
Port Barton
Rio
Tuba
Honda Bay
Puerto
Princesa
Tubbataha
Reefs
Basterra
Reef
Ursula
Island
Bugsuk
Island
Bancorn
Island
Balabac
Island
SAN MIGUEL
ISLANDS
SULU
SEA
Cagayan Sulu
Island
MALAYSIA
(SABAH)
BORNEO
TURTLE
ISLANDS
e
Pa
Caramay
San Rafael
Swimming in the turquoise waters of the

lakes of Coron Island (p430)
Relaxing in laid-back Port Barton (p419)
Roxas
Brooke's Point
Journeying to the centre of the earth in

Puerto Princesa Subterranean River
National Park (Subterranean River; p415)
g
a
s
a
P
PA L A W A N
s
Puerto Princesa Subterranean
River National Park
(Underground River)
Sabang
Bataraza
Welcome
Point
Cuyo
yo
CAGAYAN
ISLANDS
To Iloilo
PA L A W A N
Diving onto the sunken wrecks of Coron

(p427) some of the best wreck diving
anywhere
Lakes of
Coron Island
Dumaran
Island
CUYO
ISLANDS
Port
St Paul Barton
Bay
Malanut
Village Bay
Bay
Aborlan
Tabon
Malapackun Caves
Narra
Quezon
Island
Iraan Bay
Island
Rizal
Bay
Mt Mantalingajan
(2086m)
Wreck diving
around Coron
Bacuit
Archipelago
t
ra i
Exploring the islands and beaches of the

Bacuit Archipelago (p424), one of the worlds
most stunning seascapes
San Vicente
ge
Pa s s a
est
o W
Taytay
Tagburos
Long
Point
Linapacan
Island
Taytay Bay
Bacungan
a
w
it
Imuran
Bay
Mayday Bay
ANTIQUE
Coron Island
Liminangcong
Baheli
(Bahile)
Coron
Cu y
With convenient and quick plane and ferry connections from Luzon, Palawan is easy to
get to. With few paved roads, however, it can be time consuming to travel overland around
Palawan. But the views along the way are usually worth the time and effort. Of course, in
the wet season, which usually runs here from June to September, road travel can be difficult
in the days following a heavy rain. But, it is possible to travel in Palawan during the wet
season, and many people enjoy the brilliant sunsets that come with the clouds.
St
CALAMIAN
GROUP
Culion
Island
L i n a p a c an
St ra
El Nido
San
Jos
Concepcion
SOUTH
CHINA
SEA
Palawans world-class diving, snorkelling and jungle trekking make it a must-see destination for nature lovers and adventure-sports fans. The fantastic seascapes of the Bacuit
Archipelago, the wrecks around Coron Town and the magical lakes of Coron Island should
rank high on any visitors list. You could spend a lifetime discovering new islands, beaches
and reefs, particularly around northern Palawan and Busuanga Island.
HIGHLIGHTS
or
Busuanga
Island
ss
ag
Palawan is one of the real treasures of the Philippines. Stretching from the Mindoro Strait
down to the tip of Borneo, it is a magnificent, coral-fringed range of jungle-clad mountainous islands jutting up dramatically from the Sulu Sea. The flora and fauna in Palawan is
quite unique to the island, and is said to have more in common with that of Borneo than
with the rest of the Philippines. Due in equal parts to its rugged topography, its small
population and its distance from other islands in the archipelago, Palawan has managed
to stay largely pristine.
All told, we consider Palawan to be one of the most rewarding outdoor-sports destinations not just in the Philippines, but in all of Southeast Asia.
MINDORO
APO REEF
NATIONAL
PARK
408 PA L A W A N D a n g e r s & A n n o y a n c e s

Palawan suffered from a highly publicised
tourist-kidnapping incident that took place
in 2001. Some resorts, hotels and restaurants closed down as a result. Luckily, there
have been no incidents in recent years and
people are coming back. Although its impossible to predict the future, we believe
that Palawan is now as safe as anywhere else
in the Philippines.
Despite its last frontier reputation, Palawan is easily accessible from Manila and a
few other parts of the Philippines. Indeed,
with enough planning and good timing,
you might even be able to arrive in Manila, change planes, and arrive at your destination in Palawan the same day (flights
to Palawan from Manila take just over an
hour). More likely, you could fly into Manila, spend a night in the city, then hop on
a plane or boat to Palawan the following
day. Either way, the delights of Palawan are
within easy reach of the traveller.
628 6665 in El Nido; www.flyseair.com) has a number

of flights from Manila to various airports in
Palawan, including: ManilaBusuanga (one
on Tuesday and Saturday, two on Thursday, three on Monday, Wednesday, Friday
and Sunday); ManilaBusuangaEl Nido
Puerto Princesa (one on Tuesday and Saturday); and ManilaBusuangaEl NidoPuerto
PrincesaCuyo (one on Tuesday). These all
operate in both directions on the days listed
here.
Asian Spirit (%055-209 1189 in Busuanga) has
a flight daily to Busuanga but that can be
reduced during the low season. It flies to
Taytays Sandoval Airport (%0916 452 8197 in
Taytay) daily.
Finally, ITI (%02-815 5674 in Manila, 0920 908 1025
in El Nido) offers two direct flights daily between
Manila (Soriano Hangar) and El Nido.
You would be well advised to keep in
mind that the timetables (as well as the
routes and fares) of the different airlines,
particularly Asian Spirit and SEAIR, are
subject to frequent change, so its best to
check with the airline for the latest update.
BOAT
AIR
Palawans main airport is in Puerto Princesa, but there are two smaller airports
further north in Palawan and one on the
island of Busuanga. El Nido and the Bacuit
Archipelago are served by small El Nido
Airport. Sandoval Airport, about 30km
north of Taytay, serves as an alternate entry
point for northern Palawan and places like
Flower Island and Club Noah Isabelle. On
Busuanga Island, theres the YKR Airport,
which serves Coron Town and the resorts
of the Calamian Archipelago.
The following airlines offer flights between Manila and Puerto Princesa; all except Cebu Pacific fly daily.
Air Philippines (%02-851 7181 in Manila, 048-433
7003 in Puerto Princesa; www.airphils.com)
Asian Spirit (%02-855 3333 in Manila, 048-434 4344
in Puerto Princesa; www.asianspirit.com)
Cebu Pacific (%02-551 6250 in Manila; www
.cebupacificair.com) Flights on Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday
and Sunday.
PAL (%02-855 8888 in Manila, 048-433 4565 in Puerto
Princesa; www.philippineairlines.com)
In addition, SEAIR (%02-884 1521 in Manila, 048434 5272 in Puerto Princesa, 0919 467 4616 in Coron, 0916
Palawan has boat connections to and from

Manila, Iloilo (on Panay), and San Jos (on
Mindoro).
Manila
A SuperFerry (% 02-528 7000 in Manila, 048-434

5734 in Puerto Princesa; www.superferry.com.ph) liner
sails once a week from Manila to Puerto
Princesa via Coron and back again (P1852
Super Value ticket with meals, 28 hours). It
departs Manila on Friday, arrives in Coron
on Saturday and then in Puerto Princesa
later that same day; it departs Puerto Princesa on Sunday, arrives in Coron on that
same day and then in Manila on Monday.
Negros Navigation (www.negrosnavigation.ph;
%02-244 0408 in Manila, 048-434 4735 in Puerto Princesa) has a ferry that sails once a week between
Manila and Puerto Princesa (P1835 economy class with meals, 23 hours). It departs
from Manila on Thursday and arrives in
Puerto Princesa on Friday; it departs from
Puerto Princesa on Saturday and arrives in
Manila on Sunday.
San Nicolas Shipping (%02-243 4595 in Manila,
%0918 216 1764 in Coron) operates three trips
weekly between Manila and Coron (P800,
meals included). All trips leave Manila at
4pm (Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday) and

arrive in Coron at 5pm the following day.
CoronManila trips sail Monday, Wednesday and Friday, leaving Coron at 4pm and
docking in Manila at 5pm the next day.
Atienza Shipping Lines (%02-243 8845 in Manila, 0927 406 6036 in Coron, 0918 566 6786 in El Nido, 0919
257 4455 in Liminancong) operates a Liminancong
El NidoCoronManila route, leaving Liminancong at 7pm Saturday and arriving

in Manila at noon on Monday. The reverse
journey leaves Manila at 6pm Wednesday
and arrives at its final destination at noon
on Friday. The ManilaLiminancong fare is
P940, with meals included.
Iloilo (Panay)
Milagrosa Shipping (%033-335 0955 in Iloilo, 048-433

4806 in Puerto Princesa) has a ferry that sails once
a week between Iloilo and Puerto Princesa,
stopping in the Cuyo Islands en route (P800
economy, 26 hours). The ferry departs Iloilo at 7pm on Monday and Thursday and
arrives in Puerto Princesa at 9pm on the
following day; it leaves Puerto Princesa,
headed in the opposite direction, at 3pm on
Sunday and Wednesday, arriving in Iloilo
at 5pm the following day.
PA L A W A N G e t t i n g A r o u n d 409
San Jos (Mindoro)

San Nicolas Shipping (%0918 216 1764 in Coron)
does a weekly CoronSan Jos trip (P400),

departing at 10am Tuesday and arriving at
San Jos about six hours later. The return
journey leaves San Jos at 10pm on Saturday and arrives in Coron at around 4am the
following morning.
Getting Around
Getting around Palawan is almost as easy as
getting there, but be warned that road journeys can be time consuming, bumpy and
frustrating (due to the local jeepney drivers
observing the standard practice of not adhering to schedules). Using boats to travel
up and down the island is also possible: two
ferries travel up and down Palawan (see
p410); and bangka can be hired for trips
between points on the coast and offshore
islands. Finally, air travel is remarkably
speedy and efficient in Palawan, and its
certainly the way to go if you can afford it.
AIR
SEAIR (opposite) is the only airline that

links destinations within Palawan. On Tuesday and Saturday, SEAIR flies from Manila
PALAWAN: THE LAST FRONTIER

Palawan is often portrayed as the Philippines last frontier, an unspoilt ecosystem of virgin forests, pristine beaches and clear waters teeming with myriad forms of marine life. To the east lie
Tubbataha Reefs, a Unesco World Heritage site; to the north is Apo Reef, said to be home to
the worlds largest concentration of coral species; and on the main island of Palawan youll find
thousands of hectares of untouched forests where endemic species such as the Palawan bearcat,
Palawan peacock-pheasant and Calamian deer roam.
According to the WWF (World Wildlife Fund; www.worldwildlife.org), Palawan is home to 15 endemic
and near-endemic mammals, along with 20 endemic and near-endemic bird species. It also shares
with nearby Borneo some 23 bird species that are found nowhere else in the Philippines. A truly
unique species, found on the southern island of Balabac, is the Philippine mouse deer, the worlds
smallest hoofed mammal, which stands only about 40cm at the shoulder level.
Unfortunately, Palawans biodiversity is in grave danger from such things as unsustainable logging practices and pollution. In an effort to counter this, the whole of Palawan has been declared
a Fauna and Flora Watershed Reserve, within which are several protected areas El Nido-Taytay,
Tubbataha, Puerto Princesa Subterranean River National Park, Malampaya Sound, Coron Island
and Calauit Game Reserve. In addition, there are designated wilderness areas, forest research
reserves, wildlife sanctuaries and marine reserves. Palawan also promotes ecotourism, delicately
balancing the need for tourist revenues with the preservation of the environment.
Palawan really is what the travel brochures say it is a natural wonderland of breathtaking
beauty. Every global traveller should visit it at least once. But if you do visit, always remember
you are a guest. Before you throw that cigarette butt into the water or pop that piece of coral
into your bag to take home, just think of what your seemingly harmless act might be contributing to the potential destruction of this earthly paradise.
PA L A W A N
PA L A W A N
Heavy-duty road trips are the norm in Palawan, and these trips are made by jeepney/bus
hybrids (overgrown jeepneys with the seats
facing forward). If youve got the cash, you
can hire a private van or jeepney to cover
long stretches (a good option for groups).
Not only will you be able to see more of the
PA L A W A N
Tres Marias
Island
s
a
Rita
Island
n
a
Maoyon
San
Rafael
Manalo
Sta Cruz
Baguias
Fondeado
Island
Nagtabon
Island
Tapul Snake
Is
Is
Bacungan
Bush Is
Paron
Arreceffi
Is
Starfish Is
Island
Meara Pandan Frazer
Island
Sta
Is
Batis
Island
Lourdes
Simpocan
a
Cowrie
d
Island
Sicsican
n
o
San Jos
Irawan
Salvacion
Babuyan
Tanabag
To Roxas (105km);
Taytay (180km);
El Nido (235km)
%048 / pop 162,000
Langogan
Binduyan
Concepcion
a
l
PUERTO PRINCESA
Buenavista
Macarascas
Lucbuan
Maruyogon
Bahile
Hen &
Chicken
Islands
Puerto Princesa
Subterranean River
National Park
(Underground River)
Visitors
Information
Centre
Cleopatras
Needle
(1593m)
Tagabinit
Cabayugan
Sabang
Bagongbayan
San Pedro
San Miguel
Puerto Princesa
Puerto
Airport
Princesa
Puerto
Princesa
Bay
Iwahig
Napsan
Montible
Labtay
SULU
SEA
Luzviminda
Turtle Bay
Orientation
Puerto Princesa is really just an overgrown
country town, with the main street, Rizal
Ave, as its long, straight spine. Rizal Ave
runs from the airport, through the city centre and down to the pier.
Inagawan
Kamuning
To Quezon (135km);
Brooke's Point (170km)
MAPS
The E-Z Palawan map features a detailed

map of Puerto Princesa. Copies can be purchased for P80 in bookshops, newsstands
and businesses that cater to travellers.
Information
INTERNET ACCESS
Several Internet cafs can be found on Rizal

Ave, between the airport terminal and Jollibee restaurant.
2610 Computer Center (%434 7645; Rizal Ave; per
Equitable PCI Bank (Rizal Ave; h9am-3pm Mon-Fri)

PNB (Philippine National Bank; Rizal Ave; h9am-3pm
Mon-Fri)
POST
Main post office (Burgos St; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri) Just

off Rizal Ave.
TELEPHONE
hr P25; h9am-midnight) The fastest connections and

decent machines.
Of the very few telephone landlines in Palawan, most are in Puerto Princesa. Mobile
phones are the norm, and weve found that
Smart offers the best coverage in Palawan.
MONEY
TOURIST INFORMATION
There are several big banks with ATMs

along Rizal Ave.
City Tourism Office (%434 4211; Puerto Princesa

Airport; h8am-noon & 1-5pm) Located next to the
arrival hall at the airport. It has maps of Puerto but these

arent particularly useful.
Provincial tourist office (%433 2968; Provincial
Capital Bldg, Rizal Ave; h8am-noon & 1-5pm Mon-Fri)
Tourist Information & Assistance Counter (Puerto
Princesa Airport) Operates at the airport to meet incoming
flights. Staff can point you in the right direction upon your
arrival.
Sights & Activities

The Palawan Museum (admission P20; h8.30amnoon & 1.30-5pm Mon-Sat) is worth checking out
if youre stuck for something to do on a
rainy day. It is housed in the old City Hall
building adjacent to Mendoza Park and has
exhibits of Chinese trade pottery and Spanish relics that were found in the province,
PA L A W A N
ROAD
20 km
12 miles
Marufinas
Ba y
Travelling by boat is a good way to save

money and avoid the discomforts of road
travel. Two ferries ply routes along Palawan: Superferry, which connects Puerto
Princesa and Coron; and Atienza Shipping
Lines, which runs between Liminancong,
El Nido and Coron. For contact details and
schedules, see p408.
There used to be regularly scheduled
bangka services up and down the west coast
of northern Palawan, connecting Sabang,
Port Barton and El Nido. This has ceased
operating though it is still possible to charter boats between these and other ports.
See those sections for sample travel times
and prices.
Of course, its also possible to hire a
bangka by the hour or day for trips between
the main island and offshore islands and for
island hopping. A typical day rate for island
hopping within the Bacuit Archipelago, for
example, would be from P1000 to P1500.
0
0
CENTRAL PALAWAN
CENTRAL PALAWAN
The bustling capital of Palawan is generally
regarded as little more than a jumping-off
point for excursions elsewhere on the island.
Often overlooked as an attraction in its own
right, this underrated town has some decent
hotels and good restaurants, and is an excellent base from which to explore central and
southern Palawan. Puerto, as the locals call
it, is certainly clean and relaxed in comparison to Manila, but tricycle jams on Rizal Ave,
the main street, go pretty far toward shattering any illusions of a tropical paradise.
C E N T R A L PA L A W A N Pu e r t o P r i n c e s a 411
an
BOAT
scenery, youll be in a better frame of mind

to actually appreciate the view.
Note that the wet season in Palawan runs
from June to September. During this time,
roads may become impassable after a heavy
rain. This isnt always the case, however,
and you should not assume that just because its the wet season, overland travel
is impossible. It may just be a matter of
waiting a day or two. And if worst comes to
worst, you can always fly or take a boat.
Central Palawan
U l ug
to Busuanga, El Nido and Puerto Princesa

and back again. SEAIR allows you to fly
between the different points on its Palawan
routes, so you can, for instance, pick up the
flight at Busuanga to go to El Nido. SEAIR
is adding routes all the time, and they fly
additional routes in the high season, so its
worth checking their website or asking their
agents about schedules and destinations.
Conversely, be forewarned that during the
low season they may merge two flights into
one if there arent enough passengers. Sample fares and flight times include: Puerto
PrincesaEl Nido (P2315, 45 minutes) and
El NidoBusuanga (P2665, 30 minutes).
One bonus of flying around Palawan is the
opportunity for great aerial sightseeing along
the way: flying into El Nido from the south,
for example, offers eye-popping views of the
Bacuit Archipelago. And if youre in a hurry,
30 or 40 minutes relaxing in the clouds sure
beats ten hours in a bumpy jeepney!
410 C E N T R A L PA L A W A N Pu e r t o P r i n c e s a
0
0
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

Immaculate Concepcion Cathedral......7 A1
Palawan Museum...............................8 B1
SLEEPING
Badjao Inn..........................................9 C1
9
18
11
dez St
Lapan St
lo St
Abad Santos St
Ma
bin
i St
A Abag
A2
C1
B2
B1
B1
A1
EATING
Dang Marias Dos..........................(see 21)
Jollibee..............................................16 B1
KaLui................................................17 C1
Kinabuch..........................................18 C1
Saris Baryo.......................................19 C1
Vegetarian
House........................................20 B1
Festivals & Events

A good time to visit Puerto is during the
Baragatan Festival, which takes place from
23 May to 23 June. Held on the grounds of
the Provincial Capital Building, the festival
features lots of singing, eating, drinking and
various stalls selling all kinds of local produce and handicrafts.
Sleeping
Casa Linda Inn (%433 2606; casalind@mozcom.com; AS
Rengel Rd; s/d with fan P400/500, with air-con P650/750)
With its manicured garden courtyard and
pergola, this well-run guesthouse is the sort
of place wed like to see more often. The
rooms are a tasteful mix of hotel-style comfort and nipa hutstyle character. A shoesoff-at-the-door rule ensures blissful silence
and gleaming floorboards (although this
rule is strangely ignored by some members
sion
Exten
Villarosa Rd
Mano
Banwa Pension.................................10
Casa Linda Inn..................................11
Duchess Pension...............................12
Hotel Fleuris......................................13
Lola Itang Inn....................................14
Puerto Pension.................................15
as well as prehistoric artefacts from Tabon

Caves. Further along Rizal Ave, you could
also have a look at the Immaculate Concepcion Cathedral, a structure that dates back
to 1872.
24
Sr Rd
bang St
o St
22
26
make this place an acceptable choice for a

few nights in Puerto. The downtown location is fairly convenient.
Duchess Pension (%433 2873; Valencia St; s P150550, d P250-550; a) The rooms in the new
wing here are clean and serviceable but
bland. The singles in the old wing, which go
for a mere P150, are among the cheapest in
town theyre dead basic but fairly priced.
Badjao Inn (%433 2761; 350 Rizal Ave; s P750, d
P850-950; a) Right in front of Casa Linda,
this place also has an attractive courtyard
garden (youd never guess it from the outside). The rooms are getting a little long
in the tooth, and its not on par with Casa
Linda. On the plus side, the rooms are large
and fairly well maintained.
Rizal Ave
Fernan
ndoza
16
19
17
21
Airport Runway
Airport
Terminal
2
SHOPPING
Asiano..............................................21 C1
NCCC Mall.......................................22 B1
TRANSPORT
Aboitiz Express Office.......................23 B1
Air Philippines..................................24 D1
El Mundo Sports...............................25 C1
Floral Travel & Tours.........................26 C1
Negros Navigation............................27 A1
Santa Lourdes Pier
Tricycles.....................................28 B1
SEAIR.............................................(see 26)
SuperFerry Office.............................29 A1
WG&A Office...................................30 B1
of the owners family). The staff are friendly

and efficient, but the maintenance leaves
something to be desired.
Banwa Pension (%434 8963; www.banwa.com; Liwanag St; dm P150, s P200-250, d P400-500) This laid-back
backpackers guesthouse has tons of character and comfortable, well-kept rooms. The
back deck is a wonderful hang-out spot. Tell
the tricycle driver to take you to the corner of
B Mendoza and Liwanag Sts in Quito.
Hotel Flueris (%434 4338; www.hotelfleuris.com;
Lacao St; s/tw from P2200/2700; a) The relatively
new Hotel Flueris is the best hotel value in
town, and its hard to beat its central location. The rooms are fairly spacious, well
kept and clean. Best of all, for those who
cant stand a cold-water shower even in the
tropics, all rooms have hot-water showers.
Puerto Pension (%433 2969; ppension@pal-onl
.com; Malvar St; s P225-500, d P360-660, f P900; a) Located not far from the town pier, the Puerto
Pension is built mostly of indigenous materials. The rooftop restaurant has some
great views (when its open). The rooms
are on the small side, but theyre comfortable enough.
Eating
Puerto has a fine little collection of good
restaurants, and its a great place to load up
on calories before heading off for a rigorous
bout of jungle trekking, snorkelling or diving. Most places are located right on Rizal
Ave, which makes it easy to stroll along
and choose a place that suits your taste and
budget.
Kinabuch (%434 5194; Rizal Ave; mains from P100)
This popular outdoor restaurant is a great
place to familiarise yourself with such Filipino classics as crispy pata (crispy pork leg;
P240, good for three people) and sinigang na
hipon (tamarind-based shrimp soup; P140,
also good for three). The ambience here is
really no great shakes, but the crispy pata is
THE AUTHORS CHOICE
KaLui (%433 2580; Rizal Ave; dinner sets from
P120) Step through the gate and enter the
small, self-contained world of KaLui, possibly the best restaurant in the whole of
Palawan. The speciality here is the seafood
set (P275), which can include such things
as spicy squid, steamed fish and vegetables.
Simpler sets are available for P120. Most
dishes are seafood, cooked in Filipino style,
with nods to the rest of Southeast Asia. The
owners of this restaurant have a highly creative sense of style, and youll undoubtedly
leave the place with ideas for decorating
your own home or apartment.
C E N T R A L PA L A W A N Pu e r t o P r i n c e s a 413
among the best weve had in the Philippines

just writing about it makes us want to hop
on the next plane back to Puerto!
Saris Baryo (%433 4899; Rizal Ave) This casual place serves a wide variety of Filipino
favourites, including sinigang (tamarindbased soup), adobo (pork stewed in vinegar and garlic) and pinakbet (an Ilocano
vegetable dish). We can recommend the
house speciality: kare-kare (a peanut-based
Filipino stew of seafood or meat, P160).
The service is a little uneven, but the food is
fine and the atmosphere is pleasant.
Dang Marias Dos (%434 8120; Rizal Ave; sets
from P89) With indoor and outdoor seating,
this cosy little joint specializes in roasted
chicken sets (P89). The usual Western suspects are also offered here, including pizza
and pasta. And there is one item that you
wont likely find on a menu anywhere else in
the world: loaya@yahoo.com! Its described
as a Cuyono dish of pork knuckles stewed
with red beans and jackfruit. We couldnt
decide whether to try it or email it.
Vegetarian House (Burgos St; dishes from P30)
Vegetarians will find this place a welcome
sanctuary in the meat-mad Philippines. It
serves a variety of mostly Filipino vegetarian dishes for incredibly cheap prices. Its
not much to look at, but the people are
friendly and the food is quite good.
Jollibee (Rizal Ave; burger sets from P50) This
homegrown fast-food chain hardly needs
an introduction if youve been in the Philippines for any length of time, youll know
Jollibee. For the uninitiated, its basically
the Filipino version of Ronalds place, with
slightly tastier food.
Shopping
Asiano (% 434 8167; Rizal Ave; h 7.30am-11pm)
This is the best place to pick up some Palawan handicrafts like baskets, jewellery and
woodcarvings. The owner has a good eye
and sense of style and his wares are a step
up from the usual offerings.
Public Market (Burgos St; h9am-5pm) Piles of
tropical fruit, stacks of colourful vegetables,
puddles of fish blood on the floor and flies
buzzing round the butchers blocks make up
the colourful tableau at this central market.
Small but vibrant, its pretty much a mustsee for fans of Southeast Asian markets.
NCCC Mall (Lacao St; h9am-7pm) This indoor
shopping mall, containing a supermarket,
PA L A W A N
PA L A W A N
H Me
Sr Rd
INFORMATION
2610 Computer Center......................1 C1
City Tourism Office............................2 D1
Equitable PCI .....................................3 B1
Main Post Office.................................4 B1
Philippines National Bank (PNB)..........5 B1
Provincial Capital Building...................6 C1
Tourist Office...................................(see 6)
St
23
Lola Itang Inn (%433 2990; lolaitang@yahoo.com;

Roxas St; s/d P650/650; a) Small but clean rooms
I Ra
A Abag
12
ang St
3
30
Mendoza
Park
Laca
St
St
Burgos
Abad Santos
and
To San Jos Terminal (5km);

Santa Lourdes Pier (13km)
1 km
0.5 miles
Rd
20
St
Mabini St
Puerto
Princesa
Bay
Car
13
25
A S Rengel Rd
oza
end
BM
Roxas St
H Mendoza St
Sandoval
St
10
St
15
Bonoan St
M Quezon St
Rizal Ave
14
Taft St
29
7
Manga
St
Rizal
Park Manolo
Valencia
St
27
o
Baltan St
Malvar
Public M
Market
ca
a
alv
St
Pier
St
28
St
La
Nati
ona
l Hw
y
PUERTO PRINCESA
P Abrea
412 C E N T R A L PA L A W A N Pu e r t o P r i n c e s a
Puerto Princesa
414 C E N T R A L PA L A W A N A r o u n d Pu e r t o P r i n c e s a
a pharmacy and a department store, is a

good place to pick up some necessities before heading off into the jungle.

AIR
PAL, Asian Spirit and Air Philippines all

offer daily flights to and from Manila; Cebu
Pacific operates four flights weekly while
SEAIR flies thrice weekly. SEAIR also offers
flights to and from El Nido, Busuanga and
Cuyo. For details on all these airlines and
flight schedules, see Getting There & Away
(p408) and Getting Around (p409) at the
start of this chapter.
SEAIR (%434 5272; Rizal Ave) and Air Philippines
(%433 7003; Rizal Ave) have offices or agents
on Rizal Ave.
SuperFerry and Negros Navigation operate
ferries between Manila and Puerto Princesa.
The SuperFerry sails via Coron. Milagrosa
Shipping has a ferry that sails once a week
between Iloilo and Puerto Princesa, via the
Cuyo Islands. For details on sailing schedules, fares, and contact details, see Getting
There & Away (p408) and Getting Around
(p409) at the start of this chapter.
SuperFerry (%434 5734, 02-528 7000 in Manila;
www.superferry.com.ph; Rizal Ave) has several agents
and offices in Puerto, including one on
Rizal Ave. The WG&A and Aboitiz Express
offices on Rizal Ave also handle SuperFerry
tickets.
Negros Navigation (%434 4735, 02-244 0408 in
Manila; www.negrosnavigation.ph; Malvar St) has an office down by the pier.
CAR
If youve got the cash, hiring a car or van

and a driver is certainly a good way to
get around the island. With a big enough
group, this is certainly a reasonable option
and it beats waiting for a jeepney driver to
finish his siesta!
El Mundo Sports (%433 4878; elmundo@pal-onl
.com; National Hwy) is a reliable car-rental agency
with good drivers and spacious vans.
BUS & JEEPNEY
All buses and jeepneys operate from the San

Jos terminal, 7km north of Puerto Princesa
city centre off the National Highway (there
is a signpost that reads New Public Mar-
ket). Its a 10- to 15-minute tricycle ride

from the city centre, and it costs P40 per
person if youre alone and P10 per person if
you share with three or more people. Once
you get there, the easiest thing to do is simply ask around for the first bus or jeepney
headed to your intended destination.
Routes, operators, departure time and
fares change all the time in Palawan, so the
following is not an exhaustive list. Northern
destinations, fares, travel times and departure times include: Sabang (P150 jeepney/
P250 minivan, three hours, 7am and 9am);
Port Barton (P160 jeepney, five hours,
10am); Roxas (P120 jeepney/P156 bus, 2
hours, 5.30am, 6.30am, noon, 1.30pm, 3pm,
4pm, 5pm); Taytay (P230/237 depending on
bus company, five hours, 5am, 6am, 7am,
8am, 9am, 10am, noon, 2pm); and El Nido
(P300 bus, nine hours, 5am, 7am, 9am).
Southern destinations, fares, travel times
and departure times include: Quezon (P150
minivan, three hours, hourly 7am to 5pm)
and Brookes Point (P200, four hours, six
daily 6am to 5pm).
For information on getting to/from attractions near Puerto Princesa, see the following Around Puerto Princesa section.
Getting Around
The standard rate for a tricycle from the
airport to any destination in central Puerto
is P40.
Within Puerto the official tricycle fare
rate is P5 for every 2km.
See left for details on car hire.
AROUND PUERTO PRINCESA

There are a few worthwhile excursions
which can be done as day trips from Puerto
Princesa. The one attraction that simply
cant be missed is the Subterranean River
in Sabang, a three-hour drive from Puerto.
The islands of Honda Bay also make a nice
day or overnight trip, and will satisfy beach
bums who cant make it to the beaches further north.
Honda Bay
Honda Bay is dotted with small islands that
are ideal for snorkelling and island hopping.
Island hopping costs P800 or P1000, depending on the type of boat you take. A regular island-hopping tour allows you to visit
three islands, usually Pandan Island, Cowrie
C E N T R A L PA L A W A N A r o u n d Pu e r t o P r i n c e s a 415
Island and the aptly named Snake Island, a

winding strip of white sand that changes
shape with the tides. You might be charged
an entrance fee when you visit the islands,
usually P20 to P30. There is no entrance
fee for Snake Island. The island-hopping
boat charge entitles you to keep the boat
the whole day (until 4pm).
Package tours around Honda Bay are
available from tour agencies and hotels in
Puerto Princesa (around P900 including
snorkelling, transport and lunch, usually
from 8am to 4pm).
SLEEPING & EATING
Apart from the places listed in this section,

there are no restaurants or stores on the islands, so bring your own food if you wish
to have a picnic. On Snake Island, there is
a bamboo shack selling a handful of provisions. They sometimes have a stock of freshly
caught fish which they will cook for you.
The upscale Dos Palmas Arreceffi Island Resort (%02-637 4226 in Manila; www.dospalmas.com
.ph; full board per person from US$168), on Arreceffi
Island, has 10 cottages built over the waters
of Honda Bay, and another 38 in garden
settings. It offers the usual range of activities and services you would expect at resorts
of this scale.
On Starfish Island, the tiny Starfish Sandbar Resort (%0920 627 3427; cottages from P500) has
six primitive native-style cottages. There are
no screens or fans, and electricity is only on
from 6pm to midnight. Bedding, however,
is provided. If you are willing to rough it,
a night here might turn out to be an unforgettable experience. The small cluster of
cottages are the only evidence of human
habitation for miles around, and once the
electricity is turned off at midnight, your
only source of light is the canopy of stars
above. The cottages are built on stilts, at the
edge of a short sandbar which is the islands
only beach. A canteen serves some food,
but that is dependent on the availability
of supplies. You may, however, bring your
own food and ask the staff to cook it (cooking charges range from P30 to P100).
The starting point for trips to the islands

in Honda Bay is Santa Lourdes pier, about
13km or 30 minutes from the Puerto Princesa city centre, off the National Highway
(there is a sign beside the highway marked

Honda Bay 1km).
To get to Santa Lourdes pier from Puerto,
you can go by tricycle or a multicab, which
looks like a cross between a van and a jeepney. Not every city tricycle is licensed to
ply the route; to find one, go to the tricycle
terminal in front of Olympic Construction
on Malvar Street. A tricycle ride shared
with four other passengers costs P15 each,
but you can hire the vehicle for your exclusive use for P75. The first tricycle leaves
the Puerto Princesa terminal around 5am;
the last available one for the return journey
from Santa Lourdes leaves around 8pm.
Tricycles and multicabs are available
around Santa Lourdes pier for your return
trip to Puerto Princesa, but be prepared to
wait as they can be infrequent.
Sabang & Subterranean River

The Puerto Princesa Subterranean River National
Park contains one of the real highlights of
Palawan: the world-famous Subterranean
River (formerly St Paul Subterranean
River). A journey into the darkness of this
riverine cave is a truly unique experience
you will really feel like a character in Jules
Vernes Journey to the Center of the Earth.
The limestone cave that the river passes
through is thought to be the longest navigable river-traversed tunnel in the world
(though a similar underground river recently discovered in southern Laos is perhaps longer).
You must purchase a permit to visit the
Subterranean River at the Tourist Information
& Assistance Center (h8am-5pm) at the pier in
Sabang. Permits cost P150 for Filipinos and
P200 for foreigners. This office can also arrange boat transport to the river (round trip
P600, 15 minutes), which is the easiest and
best way to get there. The boat drops you
off on a beach near the entrance to the cave;
from there you walk for five minutes to
get to the actual entrance. Here you will be
given a lifejacket and helmet and assigned
a boat and driver for the trip into the cave.
This second boat fare is included in your
permit fee.
While the Subterranean River is actually over 8km in length, tours only take you
about 5km into the river (beyond this point,
navigation becomes difficult). The round trip
takes about 45 minutes. Along the way, your
PA L A W A N
PA L A W A N
BOAT
guide will point out various features of the

caves, and youll see many bats and swiftlets
(these cave-dwelling birds are responsible for
the guano that perfumes the cave).
After visiting the cave, energetic souls
might want to return to Sabang on foot over
the Monkey Trail/Jungle Trail. Starting from the
ranger station near the Subterranean River,
this trail initially climbs very steeply over
some overgrown limestone karsts before
dividing into two paths. At the time of
writing, the Monkey Trail was closed and
only the Jungle Trail was open. The total
distance from the ranger station to Sabang
is 5km and the walk takes between one and
two hours (theres another ranger station
halfway along, where you can take a rest).
Obviously, you can also walk the trail from
Sabang to the Subterranean River. The trail
divides just after the central ranger station
if the Monkey Trail is still closed, youll have
to take the right fork, which is the Jungle
Trail. For those who like jungle flora and
fauna, this walk is highly recommended.
Another attraction in the area is the mangrove-lined Poyuy-Poyuy River, which is at the
north end of the main beach at Sabang (just
past Michi Cottages). The park offers mangrove tours (P75; h8am-5pm); which involves
paddling with a guide a few kilometres up
the river. Ask at the hut just south of the
river. This is a great trip.
Finally, while the beach in front of Sabang
is fine, there is a better beach just across the
Poyuy-Poyuy River. The beach here is truly
beautiful, but there are sandflies in the afternoon on both this and the main beach, so
take precautions and consider swimming
rather than sunbathing.
Some places in Puerto offer worthwhile
package tours to Sabang; see right.
SLEEPING & EATING
The following places are listed in order of

location, not preference. The listing starts
at the very northern end of the beach and
works south toward the pier. Note that
there is electricity at the following places
only from 6pm to 10pm.
Michi Cottages & Restaurant (%0919 401 8655;
michimiyamoto2004@yahoo.com; cottages for 1 or 2 people
P800, for 3 people P1050) Michi has four native-
style cottages, each good for three people,

with ensuite shower and toilet. They boast
a very secluded, quiet location with a lovely
view of the bay. Michi is located at the

northernmost end of the beach, near the entrance and exit of the Monkey Trail/Jungle
Trail and mangrove river, so its a bit of walk
from the pier (around 1.5km). Note that the
signboard as you enter the property actually
reads Metchie Cottages & Restaurant.
Marys Beach Resort (%0920 432 1139; cottages
for 1 person P350, for 2 or 3 people P450) This is the
second resort from the northern end of the
beach, right next to Michi. From the outside, the seven native-style cottages look
rundown, but they are fairly clean inside.
Like Michi, the secluded location is the real
draw, not the facilities. We particularly like
the hammocks hanging from the branches
of a giant tree in front of the property. The
friendly owner can send a kalabaw (water
buffalo) cart to pick you up at the pier.
Taraw Lodge and Restaurant (%0919 601 1227;
cottages for 1 person P400, for 2 or 3 people P450) Located around the centre of the beach, this
place gets quite a lot of trade from referrals
and daytrippers sent by the Legend Hotel
in Puerto Princesa. There are native-style
cottages with concrete floors. Its fairly well
kept, but on the basic side.
There are a couple of simple restaurants
in the vicinity of the Tourist Information
& Assistance Center, but none are worth
special mention. The restaurants at the
above-mentioned accommodations are at
least as good.
Most of the journey from Puerto Princesa

to Sabang is over the paved PuertoRoxas
road. Once you turn off this road, its a
bumpy dirt track all the way to Sabang,
but the excellent scenery, particularly over
the last 20km, more than makes up for any
discomforts.
A bus runs daily between Puerto Princesa
and Sabang (P250, three hours, leaving Puertos San Jos bus terminal at 7am, leaving
Sabang at 2pm). Two or three jeepneys also
ply the same route (P150, three hours, leaving Puertos San Jos bus terminal at 7am and
9am, leaving Sabang at 7am and 10am).
Its possible to hire pumpboats to destinations up the coast from Sabang, including
Port Barton and El Nido. To or from Port
Barton costs P3000 for a boat that can take
up to four people; the journey takes about
four hours. To or from El Nido costs P6000
for a four-person boat; the journey can take

up to nine hours.
Finally, some travel agencies, guesthouses
and hotels in Puerto offer all-inclusive tours
from Puerto to Sabang. These are often the
most economical and stress-free ways to
visit the Subterranean River and the other
attractions in Sabang. Ask at your guesthouse or hotel for details.
SOUTH PALAWAN
Palawans south doesnt have as many famous attractions as the north, but its still rewarding for adventurous travellers. Tourism
infrastructure is almost nonexistent, though
if you dont mind roughing it and can speak
enough Filipino to have the barangay captain arrange basic accommodation for you,
there are enough caves and waterfalls down
here to keep you exploring for weeks.
QUEZON & TABON CAVES

Quezon, about 100km from Puerto Princesa,
is the nearest major town to Tabon Caves. This
extensive network of caves has yielded remnants of prehistory in the form of crude burial grounds. Human remains estimated to be
47,000 years old have been found here (see
p24). The cave complex is fascinating for its
archaeological and anthropological significance and for the odd beauty of the limestone
structures and jungle setting. The caves are a
half-hour boat ride from Quezon.
To arrange a trip to the caves, you must
first stop at the Quezon branch of the
Palawan Museum (h8am-noon & 1-5pm Mon-Fri),
which is signposted off the main road into
Quezon, just before the town. Staff will
provide a guide to the caves, who will also
arrange a boat to and from the caves (the
only access from Quezon town). The guide
is free, and the boat should cost around
P500 for the round trip (about 30 minutes
in each direction). Be sure to wear comfortable clothes and walking shoes, and be prepared to scramble and sweat! Bring some
protective lotion against mosquitoes. A full
tour of the caves takes about two hours.
Sleeping
Tabon Village Resort (%0910 239 8381; cottages with
shared/private bathroom from P150/450) Near Quezon on Malanut Bay, this is a relaxing place
S O U T H PA L A W A N Q u e z o n & Ta b o n C a v e s 417
with several cottages in a garden setting and

a restaurant built over the bay. A tricycle
from Quezon should cost about P50 and
take 15 minutes.

There are six or seven buses a day between
Puerto Princesa and Quezon (P150, three
hours). From Puerto, the first departure is
around 7am and the last at around 5pm;
from Quezon, the first departure is at
around 4am and the last at around 4pm.
BROOKES POINT
Brookes Point is the last major inhabitation
on the southeast coast of Palawan. The town
takes its name from the 19th-century British
explorer James Brooke, known as the White
Raja of Sarawak, who is said to have landed
here sometime around 1850. There are plenty
of opportunities for trekking and exploring
in the area, including climbing 2085m Mt
Mantalingajan (youll need to arrange a guide
here or in Puerto Princesa to undertake this
multiday journey). Be warned, however,
that there isnt much tourist infrastructure
in Brookes Point. There is one good place
to stay, however (see the following).
Sleeping & Eating

Mt Maruyog Farms & Gardens (%0919 760 0265;
Tubtub, Brookes Point; cottages from P500) This offers
basic, comfortable accommodation in rustic nipa-and-bamboo cottages in a garden
setting. The grounds are beautifully landscaped, with a big lawn area and pockets of
lush exotic vegetation. There is a treehouse
for the use of guests and visitors. Near the
restaurant is a well-tended pool surrounded
by eye-soothing greenery.

There are six jeepneys or buses a day between Puerto Princesa and Brookes Point
(P200, six hours). If you go by hired car or
van, the journey takes four to five hours.
NORTH PALAWAN
One glance at a map of Palawan and youll
understand why many visitors to the province
spend most of their time in the north: with an
endlessly convoluted coast and myriad offshore islands, this is a natural wonderland for
PA L A W A N
PA L A W A N
416 C E N T R A L PA L A W A N A r o u n d Pu e r t o P r i n c e s a
418 N O R T H PA L A W A N R o x a s
North Palawan
0
0
NORTH PALAWAN
To Manila
40 km
20 miles
To Coron
Malubutglubut
Island
Cabuli
Island
Tiniguiban
Cadlao
Island
Santa
Monica
Batakalan
Tuluran
Island
Maytiguid
Is
Apulit Is
Liminangcong
Catarban
Bato
Binga
P a s s a g e
Cauban
Guinlo
Taytay
pop 4100
Binatican Is
Pabellones
Islands
Taytay
Bay
Pancol
Embarcadero
Flower Island
Calabugdong
Island
We s t
Sandoval
SOUTH
CHINA
SEA
Icadambanuan
Island
Bantulan
Lake
Danao
Abongan
Alimanguan
PA L A W A N
Ilian
Tumarbong
Roxas
Flat
Is
San Jos
an
og
ng r
La Rive
San
Rafael
Calandagan
Island
Capayas
Port
Barton
Caruray
Cleopatras
Needle
(1593m)
Araceli
Dumaran
San
Vicente
Underground
River
Dumaran
Island
Danlig
Cacnipa
Island
Stanlake
Island
Reinard Is
Caramay
Tulariquin
Tinitan
Sleeping
Puerco Is
Coco-Loco Is
SULU
SEA
Green
Island
North Verde
Island
South Verde
Island
ROXAS
pop 47,000
The uninspiring town of Roxas (roh-hahs)

is 135km from Puerto Princesa and specialises in roadside cafs for the steady stream
of buses and jeepneys running between
Puerto Princesa and points north. To tourists, Roxas is best known as the coastal gateway to a cluster of lovely islands, including
Coco-Loco Island Resort.
Accommodation here is listed from north

to south, rather than in order of preference. The north end of the beach is on your
right as you stand on the beach and face
the sea.
Greenview Resort (%0921 326 0565; www.palawan
dg.clara.net/index.html; d P350, d cottage P800, f cottage
P1500) This is the most attractive and best-
Concepcion
To Puerto Princesa (25km)
explorers, beachcombers, snorkellers, divers

and island hoppers. The fact is, you could
spend weeks or even months here and not
begin to exhaust the possibilities theres
always another beach hiding in the next cove
or on the next island.
On the west coast, the refreshingly quiet

town of Port Barton is a low-key tourist
haunt. The town itself is on an attractive
beach with colourful sunsets. Even better
beaches can be found on the islands scattered throughout the sheltered bay, and up
the coast at Long Beach (both are accessible
by boat from Port Barton and make good
day trips). Quite a few travellers show up
here and find the mix of laid-back travel
scene and local colour enough reason to
stay for a few days. Its certainly more relaxing than El Nido town to the north, and
is a good place for families as the beach is
sheltered and peaceful.
Sleeping
Coco-Loco Island Resort (%0919 613 2393; http://coco
loco.palawan.net; 2-night & 3-day full-board packages per
person from P12,000) This resort is situated on a
corner of its own island and has a collection

of bungalows built from wood, bamboo and
thatch that are basic but have some charm.
As a resort-style place it might appeal to
some families due to its safe lagoon and
the host of activities available. The island,
naturally, is lovely. You can arrange boat
transfer from Roxas when you make your
booking.

Buses and jeepneys make the run from
Puerto Princesa to Roxas (P120 jeepney/
maintained place in Port Barton, with a

nice location on a relatively quiet stretch of
beach. Accommodation is in free-standing
and attached bungalows, all with ensuite
and fan. The family cottage has a kitchen.
This is an excellent place for families.
El Dorado Sunset Resort (%0920 329 9049; d
cottage from P350) Next to Greenview is El Dorado, which has several cottages located in
a pretty, if slightly cramped, garden setting.
There is a popular bar in the same complex.
The cottages are clean and well maintained,
with private bathrooms.
Summer Homes Beach Bungalows (%0921 401
6906; www.oxfly.co.uk/portbarton/; d P350, cottages P750)
Across the small creek from the above two,

roughly in the middle of the beach, this
clean, well-run spot has attached doubles
N O R T H PA L A W A N P o r t B a r t o n 419
and cottages in a well-tended garden setting.

This is another good option for families, and
the restaurant turns out some good food.
El Busero Inn (d P200) This place has extremely basic attached doubles with shared
bathrooms.
Elsas Beach Cottages (cottages P350-700) This
long-running, friendly spot has a variety of
cottages spread across its grounds. Its getting a little long in the tooth, but the friendly
atmosphere more than makes up for this.
Swissippini Lodge & Resort (%0921 616 5671;
A-frame P700, family house P1200) This sprawling
place has a wide variety of houses, A-frames
and other cottages packed onto its grounds.
At the time of writing, it was under renovation and it was difficult to tell what the final
result would be. Families and large groups
might consider the three-room house with
kitchen, which holds up to six people. Swissipini accepts credit cards and can arrange
onward travel.
Coconut Garden Island Resort (%0918 370 2395;
http://coconutgarden.palawan.net; r from US$8, cottage
US$17.50) This resort is located on a lovely
white-sand beach on Cacnipa Island, about

15km from Port Barton by boat. This place
has attractive A-frame cottages with balconies and shared or private bathrooms.
It also has a lodging house with rooms,
and two-person tents are available as well.
Theres boat service from Port Barton to
Cacnipa Island twice a week (Tuesday and
Friday), which leaves after the jeepney from
Puerto has arrived (P120, 40 minutes). Alternatively, a chartered boat from Port Barton should cost about P500 per boat.

BOAT
There are no longer any regularly scheduled

boats between Port Barton and El Nido or
Sabang. However, you can charter a boat to
and from El Nido (P4000 for a two-to-fourperson boat, P6000 for a four-to-six-person
boat, 3 hours) and Sabang (P3000 for a
two-to-four-person boat, P5000 for a fourto-six-person boat, 2 hours).
BUS & JEEPNEY
A jeepney runs from Port Barton to Puerto

Princesa (P160, four hours, daily, departs at
10am). It heads off from the waiting shed at
the beach end of Ballesteros St and cruises
through town picking up passengers. For
PA L A W A N
Boayan
Island
P156 bus, 2 hours, 5.30am, 6.30am, noon,

1.30pm, 3pm, 4pm, 5pm). From Roxas,
buses and jeepneys depart for Puerto from
the large bus terminal in the middle of town
between 5am and 4.30pm.
Between Roxas and Port Barton, there is
at least one jeepney a day (P80, 1 hours).
Jeepneys or buses also run to and from
Taytay and El Nido.
PORT BARTON
o
Cu y
Matinloc
Island
Sibultan
Batas
Is
El Nido
Cabulauan
Island
Iloc
Island
Nacpan
Miniloc
Island
Tapiutan
Island
Nangalao
Island
Linapacan
Island
Calibang
Island
420 N O R T H PA L A W A N Ta y t a y
information on getting from Puerto Princesa to Port Barton, see p414.

From Roxas to Port Barton, there is at
least one jeepney a day (P80, 1 hours).
From Port Barton to Roxas, there is at least
one jeepney a day (P80, 1 hours, departing between 8am and 9am).
TAYTAY
The former capital of Palawan, Taytay (tyetye) is a quiet coastal town dominated by
two prominent relics of the towns colonial
past: Santa Isabel Fort and Santa Monica Church.
The thick walls of the fort (Kutang Santa
Isabel in Filipino) are fairly intact, and you
can go inside the enclosure. On the right by
the entrance is a marker that says the fort
was first erected by the Augustinian Recollects (an order of Catholic priests) in 1667.
Inside the fort are some steps that ascend
to a public garden and a small chapel. Built
on the very edge of town, the fort offers a
sweeping view of the bay.
Located not far from the fort, Santa
Monica Church also has thick stone walls
(the blocks are said to have been cut out of
coral), but apart from the side walls, which
date back to the 17th century, most of the
church looks recently constructed. The
front and rear walls, along with the roof,
are clearly of recent construction.
Sleeping & Eating

Pems Pension & Restaurant (%0910 723 6413; s
from P150, small cottages from P650; a) This place
consists of very basic bamboo-and-nipa
cottages built around a grassy patch, which
lies behind a couple of nipa-roofed pavilions that are open to the public for eating
and drinking. The property is right on the
edge of the water, with a panoramic view
of the bay and outlying islands, as well as
the nearby fort.
Casa Rosa Cottages & Restaurant (%0921 212
0522; r P350, cottages from P800) This place is located on a hill behind the town hall and
commands a sweeping view of the bay.
Accommodation consists of three cottages
plus a couple of rooms (the rooms share a
bathroom). The cottages are nicely done,
with glazed terracotta flooring, white walls
and large glass windows that frame the bay.
Casa Rosa is easy to find, and is just a short
walk up from Taytays main street.

AIR
Taytay is served by Sandoval Airport, which

is located at the northern end of Taytay Bay,
about 30km from town. The road is mostly
paved, and the journey takes around 40
minutes. One-way travel by 4WD vehicle
between the airport and Taytay costs P150
per person or P1500 if its hired for exclusive use.
Asian Spirit flies between Manila and Sandoval daily (%02-855 3333 in Manila, 0916 452 8197
in Taytay; www.asianspirit.com). At the time of writing, there was also talk of SEAIR flying a
ManilaBusuangaTaytay route.
BOAT
For boats to and from El Nido, Liminangcong and other west-coast towns, you must
use the pier at Embarcadero (also known as
Agpay), an 8km tricycle ride west of Taytay.
The tricycle ride costs P30 per passenger if
there are four passengers and P120 for one
passenger. The ride takes about 40 minutes,
and the road is extremely rough, just about
impassable in the wet season.
The boat ride between El Nido and Embarcadero takes three hours and costs P2500
per boat.
BUS & JEEPNEY
Buses travel frequently between Puerto

Princesa and Taytay (P230 to P237 depending on the bus company, five hours, up to
eight departures daily in each direction).
Jeepneys travel from Taytay to El Nido
(P150, two to three hours, between 7am
and 9am). From El Nido, two buses go via
Taytay on their way to Puerto Princesa,
leaving El Nido at 7am or 8am.
APULIT ISLAND
Less than 2km long, the very private Apulit
Island is home to Club Noah Isabelle (%02844 6688 in Manila; www.clubnoah.com.ph; cottages per
person from US$210; a). Accommodation here
is in rows of well-built water cabanas constructed directly over the water. These cottages have both air-con and ceiling fans,
and private bathrooms. There is 24-hour
electricity. Needless to say, there is a whole
range of activities on offer, including diving, snorkelling and island hopping.
Club Noah Isabelle has a regular shuttle
service from and to Sandoval Airport, the
fares of which are included in the resorts

room rates. The resort can also organise
a boat for you between Taytay and Apulit
Island (one hour).
FLOWER ISLAND
The peaceful, utterly beautiful Flower Island is home to the Flower Island Beach Resort
(%0918 924 8895; flowerisland_ph@yahoo.com; cottages
per person US$60), with comfortable, tastefully
decorated cottages with bathrooms. There

is also a very cool bamboo house with several nice rooms inside, all with bathrooms
and air-con. The restaurant is quite good,
and meals are included in the rates. Theres
also diving and snorkelling equipment
available for rent.
The best way to get to Flower Island is
from El Nido. Jeepneys go daily from El
Nido to Batakalan on a surprisingly good
road (P90, 1 hours). Boat hire from Batakalan to nearby Flower Island is P600 per
boat.
A bangka can also be hired from Taytay
for the scenic trip to Flower Island (P1000
per boat, 2 to three hours).
CALABUGDONG ISLAND
South of Flower Island, scenic Calabugdong
Island is home to Casa del Oasis (%0921 212
0522; per person US$30). Guest accommodation
is in three cottages, all built in native style,
with room rates inclusive of three meals
daily. Dinner is served buffet style and
eaten with the resort owners. From here
the owners can organise diving trips as well
as snorkelling excursions. The resort faces
west, which allows for beautiful sunsets.
ICADAMBANUAN ISLAND
Icadambanuan Island is located at the south
end of Taytay Bay, and is yet another little island paradise for those looking to do
nothing more than swim, sunbathe and eat
seafood.
Dilis Beach Resort (%0910 231 6392; per person
US$20) is the only accommodation on the
island. Rooms have attached bathrooms
and are located in a breezy house on a hill.
Cottages, also with bathrooms, are on the
beach. Theres a restaurant on the ground
floor of the house, and meals are included
with the price of the rooms.
Pumpboats can be hired at Taytay for
P500 for the one-way trip.
N O R T H PA L A W A N F l o w e r I s l a n d 421
LIMINANCONG
A ramshackle fishing village, Liminancong
doesnt have much to attract the traveller, but
you might find yourself here when travelling
between Puerto Princesa and the northern
extremes of Palawan. If you happen to be
here during late February, the village fiesta
will keep you drunk and diverted for a few
days. During the wet season, the road to Liminancong may become impassable.
Sleeping & Eating

Puerto Paraiso Inn & Restaurant (%0919 478 2776;
s/d P200/300) The location here is nice, right
at the edge of the water, but the accommodation is very basic wood floors with
bamboo walls. Rooms are fan-cooled, with
private bathrooms. There are two communal decks for lounging, one overlooking the
bay, the other oriented inland with a view
of mountains.
Munting Paraiso Eatery (turu-tur dishes from P40;
h5am-9pm) This turu-tur (literally point
point a place where you choose from a
variety of pre-prepared dishes on display)
restaurant also has some short order items,
such as vegetable curry (P80) and lechon
kawali (crispy pork, P80). The turu-tur
selection changes daily pork adobo, fish
sinigang etc. They also serve beer.

The main pier in the village (for boats to
Manila, Batangas and other destinations) is
next to the Petron petrol station.
Atienza Shipping Lines has a LiminancongEl NidoCoronManila route. See
p409 for details.
You can hire boats between Liminancong and El Nido (P2500, 70 minutes).
Theres at least one jeepney a day between Taytay and Liminancong.
EL NIDO
pop 27,000
El Nido is the gateway to Palawans greatest natural treasure: the Bacuit Archipelago
(p424). El Nido itself commands a stunning location, sandwiched between towering limestone karst cliffs and Bacuit Bay,
with the fantastic contours of Cadlao Island
looming right offshore.
Unfortunately, the visitor to El Nido is
literally caught between a rock and a hard
place (excuse the pun), for the town itself
PA L A W A N
PA L A W A N
pop 54,000
422 N O R T H PA L A W A N E l N i d o
El Nido
is quite unprepossessing, with a collection

of substandard accommodation and an
overcrowded, hastily developed foreshore.
Thus, if you want to visit the Bacuit Archipelago, you must choose between roughing it in El Nido, or shelling out big bucks
for the accommodation in the archipelago
itself (p426).
mission on advances). It also offers international phone calls and can handle SEAIR
and Air Philippines bookings.
The post office (Real St; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri) is
set back from the beach on Real St.
Sights & Activities

El Nido Boutique & Art Caf (left) has
everything youll need for making the most
of the area. Here you can book boats to
Coron or Manila, reconfirm flights, add
your name to upcoming island-hopping
tours, hire mountain bikes and other sports
gear, stock up on souvenirs, or just have a
chat and a coffee.
At the time of writing, El Nido Marine Club
(%0916 668 2748; srjc_dive@yahoo.com; Hama St) was
Electrical power in El Nido runs from 1pm

until 1am.
There are no banks or ATMs in El Nido.
El Nido Boutique & Art Caf (%0918 506 6123;
elnidoboutique@yahoo.com; Serona Rd), near the pier,
will change money and make cash advances
on credit cards (it charges a hefty 6% com-
0
0
EL NIDO
A
100 m
0.1 miles
To Airport
(10km)
Bacuit
Bay
17
Ha
11
School
Town
Hall
l St
El Nido
Baptist
Church
18
Real St
St
12
Riza
San Joaquin St
Botano St
Palmer
Rd
Rd
Fisherman
Rd
Real St
Serona
10
16
Pilar
13
Del
14
St
Ferries to Liminancong;
Port Barton; Manila
Pier
oS
Pac
St
S
ma
Magsaysay St
Bonifacio
yaw Rd
C4
C1
C2
D1
C4
B2
D1
C1
Osmea
SLEEPING
Cliffside Cottages.............................2
Dara Fernandez Cottages.................3
Glorias Beach Cottages...................4
Lally & Abet Beach Cottages............5
Lualhati Cottages.............................6
Marina Garden Beach Cottages........7
Rosannas Beach Cottages................8
Tandikan Cottages...........................9
PA L A W A N
15
INFORMATION
El Nido Marine Club.........................1 C2
Balinsasa
Abdu
St Francis of
Assisi Parish
Church
g St
Lisan
la St
do S
Peca
Li me stone
boy
Am
St
Cl
Rd
i ff
aya
sas
lin
al S
Riz
DRINKING
Blue Karrot Bar...............................14 B2
A2
B2
B2
A2
Ba
EATING
El Nido Boutique & Art Caf...........10
Ramos Restaurant...........................11
Skyline Bar & Restaurant................12
The Alternative..............................13
TRANSPORT
Bus Stop.........................................15 D1
Flolitz Car Service...........................16 B2
Jessie Boat Hire..............................17 C2
Ten Knots Travel Office.................18 C2
White House................................(see 18)
To Corong Corong (1km);

Taytay (60km)
the only dive centre operating in El Nido.

Its located right on the beach.
Sleeping
Accommodation in El Nido is of a fairly
low standard, with most of it packed into
the crowded foreshore. These places tend
to be noisy and often somewhat rundown.
If you want to escape the noise, you should
consider places at the eastern end of the
beach, or at the back of the town. Alternatively, you can stay in one of the pricey
resorts in the bay (see p426).
Lally & Abet Beach Cottages (%0920 905 6822;
www.lallyandabet.com; Hama St; r from P1250, bungalows
from P1400) At the far end of town from the
pier, this small resort has roomy, balconied bungalows with fans and private bathrooms, and rooms with shared bathrooms
right by the water, as well as some deluxe
rooms (with air-con and bathrooms) set
back from the beach. This is one of the few
places in town that accepts credit cards. The
relatively isolated location ensures some degree of quiet (but wherever you go in El
Nido, you cant escape the morning chorus
of the towns myriad roosters). We have
heard reports, however, that maintenance
can be a little slack here.
Tandikan Cottages (%0927 562 6350; Hama St; cottages from P500) There are three cottages here,
two adjoining and one separate. These are
probably the nicest cottages on the beach,
with porches for sitting and admiring the
lovely view of the bay, and clean, spacious
rooms with private bathrooms. Its also the
noisiest place weve ever stayed: the owner
actually raises gamecocks on the premises.
He also owns the neighbourhood TV, around
which friends and relatives gather each night
for noisy TV parties. If youre immune to
noise, this is the best place to stay in El Nido;
if not, look elsewhere.
Cliffside Cottages (Rizal St; huts from P500) Set
back from the beach at the foot of the
spooky cliffs, this is a decent choice, with
acceptable freestanding huts with fans and
bathrooms.
Rosannas Beach Cottages (%0929 605 4631; Hama
St; cottages P500, r P700-900) Rosannas has four
doubles in one building and two cottages, all
with fans and ensuite bathrooms. The location is pretty good and the rooms are fairly
well maintained. The upstairs rooms in the
building have good ocean views.
N O R T H PA L A W A N E l N i d o 423
Dara Fernandez Cottages (Hama St; r P450, cottages P550) Dara has two reasonable double
cottages with fans and bathrooms in a nice
garden setting, as well as two ramshackle
double rooms.
Marina Garden Beach Cottages (%0916 562 2404;
Hama St; tw P300, tr cottages P500) Right in the middle
of the beach, there are attached twins here
with fans and a common bathroom, and triple cottages with fans and private bathrooms.
Both the rooms and cottages are very basic
and somewhat rundown.
Lualhati Cottages (%0919 319 6683; Hama St; cabins P300) Out at the back of town, on the road
to Corong Corong, this place has very basic
attached cabins with fans and bathrooms.
Its probably only worth considering in a
pinch, or if youre desperate to escape the
noisy places right in town.
Glorias Beach Cottages (Hama St; d P450) Another
place to consider only if youre stuck, this
place has three very basic doubles with fans
and bathrooms. The place is staffed only during the day, so you may have to ask around
in order to be shown a room.
Eating & Drinking

Many of the places to stay in town have
their own restaurants. In addition, there
are several stand-alone restaurants, some
of which cater specifically to tourists. Most
of these places attempt an incredibly wide
range of foreign favourites, from pasta to
Wiener schnitzel, with predictably mixed
results. Unless you demand foreign dishes,
youll do better at the local places serving
Filipino food, where the cooks are on more
familiar ground.
Ramos Restaurant (Real St; servings P40, rice P10)
This simple turu-tur joint is a good place
to grab some inexpensive and fairly tasty
Filipino food like adobo and rice. Its very
simple and there are no veggie choices, but
the owners are friendly and happy to heat
up anything you select.
Skyline Bar & Restaurant (Rizal St; servings from
P40) This is a slightly upscale version of
Ramos Restaurant. You can get cold beer
and good seafood dishes here, including
lobster (P250) and crab (P100).
El Nido Boutique & Art Caf (%0918 506 6123;
Serona Rd; Western breakfast from P100, Swiss roesti
P140) This popular spot is the only place we
found that serves proper brewed coffee, as

well as good Western-style breakfast and
PA L A W A N
Information
Barton (P4000 for a two-to-four-person

boat; P6000 for four to six people, 3 hours)
and Sabang (from P6000, nine hours).
AIR
El Nidos Lio Airport is 10km north of

town. A tricycle to or from the airport costs
P150. Note that you can hire a boat from
town to take you to the airport for the same
price, and its certainly a nicer way to go
than the bumpy, dusty road.
El Nido is served by SEAIR, which has
two flights weekly to and from Manila, Busuanga and Puerto Princesa, and ITI, which
has twice daily direct flights to and from
Manila. For details on schedules, fares,
websites and Manila contact numbers, see
Getting There & Away (p408) and Getting
Around (p409) at the start of this chapter.
In El Nido, the El Nido Boutique & Art
Caf handles SEAIR tickets and reservations
(see p422). In a house known as the White
House, the Ten Knots Travel Office (%0917 207
2742; Real St; h8am-noon & 1-5pm Mon-Sat) handles
ITI tickets and reservations (as well as reservations for Lagen and Miniloc resorts).
Atienza Shipping Lines (%02-243 8845 in Manila,
NidoCoronManila route. For details see
p409.
You can hire a bangka between El Nido
and Liminancong (P2500, 70 minutes), Port
Flolitz Car Service (%0916 232 0489; Real St) offers

van hire and driver service for destinations
around El Nido, including Sibultan, Batakalan, Taytay, Port Barton and Sabang.
BACUIT ARCHIPELAGO
The Bacuit Archipelago is a fantastic seascape where Mother Nature appears to
have let her imagination run wild. It is a
collection of jagged limestone islands that
leap skyward from the crystal-clear waters
of Bacuit Bay. The archipelago is similar to
Vietnams Ha Long Bay, or the Krabi and
Phi Phi area of southern Thailand, only
dare we say it more beautiful. Many of
the islands have sheltered bays that conceal
white-sand beaches, stunning lagoons and
vivid coral gardens. A few days exploring
the archipelago by bangka, stopping to
snorkel the coral gardens and picnic on an
empty beach is sure to be the highlight of
any trip to Palawan.
There are resorts on three of the islands
(two of which are mentioned in this section). All three charge premium rates. Thus
for the budget traveller it is usually necessary to base yourself in El Nido, which is
the gateway to these islands (even the most
distant islands in the archipelago can be
reached in about an hour by bangka from
town, and many are much closer).
In this section, we describe some of the
attractions of the more commonly visited
islands. Of course this is only a start, and
we highly recommend finding a boat driver
To Sibaltan
(25km)
Cauayan
Island
SOUTH
CHINA
SEA
Emmit
Island
Mitre
Island
Tambalanang
Island
Balinaod
Bay
Lio
Airport
Binangculan Bay
Tapiutan
Island
Inambuyod
Island
Mantinloc
Shrine
Cadlao
Island
Cadlao Lagoon
Dilumacad
Island
(Helicopter
Island)
Pasandigan
Cove
Paradise
Beach
Ipil Beach
Calmung Bay
Matinloc
Island
Miniloc
Island
El Nido Resorts
Miniloc Island
Simisu Is
Small
Lagoon
Big
Lagoon
Paglugaban
Island
South
Guntao
Island
Bacuit
Bay
Mt
Ynantagung
(483m)
El Nido
Seven Commandos
Beach
Secret Beach
North
Guntao
Island
Bocal
Island
Corong
Corong
Lapus-Lapus
Beach
Corong
Corong
Bay
Depeldet
Island
Dolarog
Beach Resort
Entalula
Island
Popolcan
Island
Pangalusian
Island
Inabuyatan
Island
Malapacao
Island
Guintungauan Island
(Turtle Island)
Comocutuan
Island
El Nido Resorts
Snake Is
Lagen Island
Tabunan
(Pangauanen)
Vigan
Cudugman
Cave
Cathedral
Cave
Manlalec
Pungtud
Lagen Island
Island
Pinasil
Is
Ninepin
Is
Dibuluan
Island
Saddle
Island
Camago Is
Peaked
Island
Camago
Bebeledon
Needle Rocks
Anato
Is
Liminangcong
Mt
Maateg
(345m)
Cata
ab
a
Tuluran
Island
River
Catarban
Strait
0927 406 6036 in Coron, 0918 566 6786 in El Nido, 0919

257 4455 in Liminancong) has a LiminancongEl
CAR
5 km
3 miles
To Coron;
Manila
Caverna
Island
Endeavor
BOAT
Two companies operate buses between El

Nido and Taytay (P150, two hours), Roxas
(P200, six hours) and Puerto Princesa (P300,
nine hours). The buses depart from a stop
near Lally & Abet Beach Cottages. Buses
usually depart El Nido at 7am and 9am.
For information on jeepneys from Puerto
Princesa, see p414.
Jeepneys go daily from El Nido to Sibultan on a surprisingly good road (P50 to
P60, 1 hours). Sibultan is the departure
point for boats to Flower Island and other
islands off the east coast.
0
0
BACUIT ARCHIPELAGO
To Embarcadero
To Taytay (56km);
Puerto Princesa (250km)
PA L A W A N
PA L A W A N
BUS & JEEPNEY
N O R T H PA L A W A N B a c u i t A r c h i p e l a g o 425
St rai t
some surprisingly tasty pizzas. Its a pleasant place to hang out and you can take care
of some travel arrangements while you wait
for your food.
The Alternative (%0917 896 3408; leann@mala
pacao.com; Serona Rd; dishes from around P80; i) This
New Age place offers a variety of natural
food and drinks, a bewildering range of
therapies and detox programs, as well as
Internet access. Staff can also arrange tours
and offer simple accommodation in their
cool beachfront restaurant and therapy
centre. If you find yourself at a loose end
in El Nido, you can use this place as your
base (and leave your luggage), provided you
spend a minimum of US$10 at the restaurant/centre.
Blue Karrot Bar (beachfront; drinks & dishes from
around P60; h1pm-11pm or later) This is a popular
little bar/restaurant right on the beach. Its
a relaxed drinking spot, with a good supply
of magazines, guitars and board games.
Bacuit Archipelago
an
Ta p i u t
424 N O R T H PA L A W A N B a c u i t A r c h i p e l a g o
426 N O R T H PA L A W A N B a c u i t A r c h i p e l a g o
who is willing to let you explore the islands

freely, stopping where the fancy strikes you
(see right).
Miniloc Island
Miniloc Island is perhaps the most interesting
of the islands in the archipelago. The real
attractions here are Big Lagoon and Small Lagoon, two of the most photographed sights
in all of Palawan. Big Lagoon is entered
by an extremely shallow channel (depending on the tide and the size of your boat,
you may have to swim into the lagoon and
leave the boat outside). Once inside, you
find one of natures greatest natural swimming holes, surrounded by jungle-clad
karst walls. Small Lagoon cant be entered
by boat at all you must swim through a
hole in a rock wall. Inside is a wonderful
hidden world, complete with a small cave
that you can swim into and explore.
Like the back of a half-submerged stegosaurus, Matinloc Island snakes some eight
kilometres along the western edge of the
Bacuit Archipelago. Along with neighbouring Tapiutan Island, it forms narrow Tapiutan
Strait, the walls of which offer some of the
best snorkelling in the archipelago. Likewise, there is some excellent snorkelling
and some good beaches on the eastern side
of Matinloc. While youre there, be sure
to check out the unusual Matinloc Shrine, a
Christian shrine located on the western side
of Matinloc. And the adventurous will surely
want to check out tiny Secret Beach, which
can only be entered by swimming through
a keyhole slot in the western wall of Matinloc. But be warned, the entrance is lined
with extremely jagged rocks and coral
do not even think of swimming through
with any waves around as an accident could
well be fatal.
Cadlao Island
Cadlao Island is like a mini-Tahiti miraculously relocated to the Bacuit Archipelago.
In addition to being a wonderful piece of
eye candy for those staying on the beach
in El Nido, its also home to lovely Cadlao
Lagoon (also known as Ubugun Bay). This
lagoon offers some good snorkelling in
shallow coral gardens that lie off the beach
at the head of the bay.
Other Islands & Beaches

Every island in the archipelago has secret
spots that await the adventurous explorer.
Pangalusian Island has some first-class snorkelling. Tiny Pinasil Island holds Cathedral Cave,
an aptly-named cavern with soaring limestone columns and wall-climbing monitor
lizards (calling to mind the gargoyles of an
actual cathedral). If you plan on exploring
the cave, be sure to bring shoes and be careful
walking on the sharp rocks. Helicopter Island
has a fine beach on its eastern shore, topped
only by the wonderful Seven Commandos Beach,
which is actually on the Palawan mainland.
Of course, there are many more beaches,
bays and coral gardens in the archipelago.
Our best advice is to pack a lunch, some
snorkelling equipment, plenty of sunscreen,
and find your own secret spot.
Sleeping
El Nido Resorts Miniloc Island (%02-894 5644 in Manila; www.elnidoresorts.com; cottage per person US$165-200;
a) This is a luxury resort that occupies a
prime spot on incredible Miniloc Island. A

row of air-con native-style cottages is situated
on stilts over the water. Prices include meals
and transfer from and to El Nido airport.
El Nido Resorts Lagen Island (%02-894 5644 in
Busuanga Island / Calamian Group
commodation owner can arrange a boat

and boatman, as can the El Nido Boutique
& Art Caf (p422). Alternatively, a stroll
down the beach should turn up several willing boatmen. It costs between P1200 and
P1600 for small boats for a full day.
Jessie Boat Hire (%0926 880 8564; Hama St, El Nido;
island hopping per day from P1200), on the beachfront
in El Nido, has a fleet of three boats and offers
half-day and full-day island-hopping tours,
along with beach cookouts and other activities. Jessie is extremely knowledgeable about
the Bacuit Archipelago and can take you to
the best snorkelling spots (he doesnt mind
donning fins and a mask and jumping right
in with you). There is a small sign in front of
his house in the middle of the beach.

El Nido is the main access point for the
Bacuit Archipelago. See p424 for details.
Getting Around
The best way to explore the Bacuit Archipelago is by bangka from El Nido. Any ac-
white-sand beaches, great snorkelling and

diving, private islands, dense rainforest and
comfortable resorts. In addition, the Calamians boast several attractions that cannot
be found in the rest of Palawan, including
the crystal-clear lakes of Coron Island and
some of the best wreck diving in the world.
The Calamians are, in short, an adventuresports paradise, and, best of all, they are
easily accessible from Manila: flights from
Manila to Busuanga, the main island in the
Calamians, take just 65 minutes!
For information on transport to and
from the Calamian Group, see p429.
BUSUANGA ISLAND
Diving wreck diving in particular is the

main activity here. There are at least 10
wrecks around Busuanga Japanese warships and merchant ships sunk by American
planes during WWII. The depths at which
the wrecks are found vary from shallow to
quite deep, so there are diving opportunities
for beginners and experienced divers. There
are three dive centres in Coron, which offer
wreck diving and other diving courses.
CALAMIAN GROUP
The Calamian Group is a concentrated version of the rest of Palawan. Within easy
reach of Coron, the main town in the archipelago, you will find all the attractions of
Palawan packed into a much smaller space:
BUSUANGA ISLAND/CALAMIAN GROUP

A
Manila; www.elnidoresorts.com; r per person US$190-215,

cottage per person US$230-255; as) A luxurious
place with air-con rooms and concrete cottages built on stilts over the water. If youre
squeamish about swimming in the crystalclear waters surrounding the island, its even
got a swimming pool! Prices include meals
and transfers from and to El Nido airport.
You can make a booking for this place (and
the El Nido Resorts Miniloc Island) at the
Ten Knots Travel Office in El Nido (p424).
Dolarog Beach Resort (%0919 867 4360; www
.dolarog.com; cottage per person US$60-70; a) On the
Palawan mainland, a few kilometres south
of El Nido, this low-key resort has nice cottages and a good restaurant. There are fan
and air-con cottages, and the price includes
meals, boat transfers and island hopping.
C A L A M I A N G R O U P B u s u a n g a I s l a n d 427
Tanobon
Island
Calauit
Island
1
Buluang
Diboyoyan
Island
Dimakya
Island
2
New Busuanga
Malajon
Island
Malabnao
Bacbac
Island
Old Busuanga
14 km
8 miles
Nanga
Island
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

Makinit Hot Spring..................1 C3
SOUTH
CHINA
SEA
Cheey
0
0
San Jos
Decalachao
SLEEPING
Club Paradise...........................2
Dive Link Resort.......................3
El Rio y Mar Island Resort........4
Lamud Island Dive Resort.........5
Sangat Island Reserve...............6
Cabilauan
Island
C1
C3
C2
B3
B3
D
To Manila
Tara
Island
Lagat
Island
Bantac
Island
Malawig
Capare
Busuanga
Island
Salvacion
Rive
Buenavista
r
Talampulan
YKR
2
Salvacion
Island
Airport
Decabobo
Island
Dibutonay
Gutob Bay
Island
Turda
Pamalican
Busuanga Island San Nicolas
East Nalaut Island
Lungaon
Island
North Cay Island
Horse Island
Borac
South Cay Island
Guadalupe
Dimana
Concepcion
West
Nalaut
Dicoyan
Malbato
Banga Mt Tundalara
Dinaran
Bintuan
Malcatop Island
Island
Island
Island
(640m)
Popototan
Calumbuyan
Calinac
Island
Baquit
Cayangcanan
Island
Marcilla
To El Nido;
Olasi
1
Island
Coron
Liminangcong
Pass Island Lajo
To San
Manglet
Island
Alagao
Jos
Island
Tagumpay
Apo
3
Lamud
Lusong
(Mindoro)
Uson Island
5
Island
Island Sangat 6 Island
Decanituan
3
Marily
Island
(Tangat)
Dibatuc
Dimanglet
Island
Lake Kayangan
Island
Island
Lake
Batunan Island
Barracuda
Island
CYC
Coron
Island
Island
Chindonan
Damipac
Island
Bugur
Lake
Culion Island Culion
Island
Cabugao
PA L A W A N
PA L A W A N
Matinloc Island
428 C A L A M I A N G R O U P B u s u a n g a I s l a n d
Coron Town
For information on transport to and

from Busuanga Island, see opposite.
ACTIVITIES
The Discovery Divers (%0920 901 2414; www.ddivers

.com; Coron Town & Decanituan Island; per dive from US$20)
Coron Town
dive centre is actually based on nearby Decanituan Island (aka Discovery Island), but
it maintains a shop at the end of a pier in
town. It offers dives to all the major wrecks,
as well as various dive courses, and NITROX
and other forms of technical diving.
Sea Dive (%048 550 9207; www.seadiveresort.com;
Coron Town), on the same pier as the Sea Dive
Resort, is a long-running dive centre that
also offers wreck diving, as well as instruction and technical diving.
The owner of the bar/restaurant Busuanga
BAAC (baac_3@yahoo.com; Coron Town) runs an adventure-sports company that can arrange
such things as jungle trekking (P1000 per
person), mountain biking (P300/450 per
person without/with guide), horseback riding (P1200 per day), and island hopping
(P1500 per boat).
Coron Town is the main town on Busuanga

Island and the commercial and population
centre of the Calamian group. It is a convenient base for wreck divers, snorkellers,
island-hoppers and other sun-worshipping
explorers (the town itself has no beach).
The best-value activity is to hire a pumpboat (around P1000 per day, holds a maximum of eight people) and snorkelling gear
(about P250 per day) from the hotels or
dive centres and inspect the nearby islands.
Another activity that is often included in a
pumpboat day trip is a soak in the Makinit
Hot Springs just outside town.
Sea Dive Internet Caf (Don Pedro St, Coron Town;
minimum 30min, per hr P50) Most accommodation
places in Coron have their own Internet access. This was the only stand-alone Internet
place in town at the time of writing. Machines
and connections here are relatively fast.
SLEEPING
There are several decent places to stay right

in Coron Town. Otherwise, you can stay
0
0
CORON TOWN
A
To YKR Airport (25km);

North Busuanga
Dinagpan
t
sS
rgo
St
Ma
lv
St ar
Do
Real St
o
Pedr St
7
Claudio
Sandaval
Elementary
School
EATING
Bistro Coron.................................8 A2
TRANSPORT
Asian Spirit...................................9 B2
SEAIR.........................................10 B3
WG&A ......................................11 B2
St
Bu
St
stin
gu
10
Au
Public Market
& Pier
St Augustine
Parish Church
al S
11
a Rd
Riz
Cemetery
Nuev
Central
Fundamentalist
Baptist Church
Natio
nal
Hwy
SLEEPING
Darayonan Lodge.........................4 B2
Discovery Island Resort.................5 A1
KokosNuss Garden Resort &
Restaurant................................6 B1
Sea Dive Resort..........................(see 3)
Village Lodge & Caf...................7 B2
Pedro
al
2
8
th
tpa
Foo
Rosario St
Rd
To Coron
Island (4km)
Basuanga
Island
Coast
Rd
Don
Decanituan
Island
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

Busuanga BAAC.........................(see 2)
Discovery Divers..........................2 A2
Sea Dive......................................3 A2
Mt Tapyas
(190m)
Cemetery
INFORMATION
Sea Dive Internet Caf ................1 A2
Felicid
ad St
500 m
0.3 miles
Coron
Bay
To Makinit Hot
Spring (2.7km)
Uson Island
on one of the islands nearby; one of them

is listed here, since its essentially in Coron
Town. See p431 for details of the others.
Discovery Island Resort (%0920 901 2414; www
.ddivers.com; Decanituan Island; 2-3 person bungalow per
person US$30) Located on Decanituan Island, a
10-minute bangka ride from Coron Town,

this excellent little resort is conveniently
near town yet free of noise and stress. It
consists of well-maintained, clean huts arrayed on a west-facing hillside. Each hut has
a great view from its veranda, and the sunsets are lovely. This is mostly a dive resort,
but non-divers will feel equally welcome.
The communal meals with the owners are
a real draw.
Sea Dive Resort (%0918 400 0448; www.seadive
resort.com.ph; Coron Town; r with fan/aircon from P400/500)
Built on a pier out in the bay, this place is

popular with travellers and generally gets
good reviews from readers. It offers clean,
fairly spacious rooms (strangely lacking in
mosquito nets or screens, though). One
slight downside here is the open-air karaoke
bar on the next pier over either bring earplugs or become very familiar with the latest
Filipino pop songs! On the plus side, the
restaurant is pretty good and the location is
quite scenic, with good views over to Coron
Island, and they accept credit cards.
Darayonan Lodge (%0919 247 2647; darayonan@
i-manila.com.ph; National Hwy, Coron Town; r with fan/
air-con P400/600) This place has native-style
cottages in a garden setting. The grounds

are pleasant, though the sound of tricycles
on the surrounding streets still intrudes.
The cottages show wear and tear but are
otherwise clean and adequately maintained.
All rooms are equipped with well-scrubbed
toilets and showers and mosquito netting.
Village Lodge & Caf (%0918 920 1517; redfern@
i-manila.com/ph; National Hwy, Coron Town; r from P750;
a) Located right next to Darayonan, the
Village Lodge consists of several structures,

two of which are old traditional houses.
Rooms in the new buildings are much better
than those in the old houses. Most rooms
are equipped with toilet and shower (with
hot water). There are small gardens both in
front and at the back of the property, but
nothing as lush as Darayonans.
KokosNuss Garden Resort & Restaurant (%0919
448 7879; www.kokosnuss.info; cottage with shared/private
bathroom & fan US$12/26, bungalow with private bathroom
& air-con US$32) A 20-minute walk up the main
C A L A M I A N G R O U P B u s u a n g a I s l a n d 429
road from town, this is a decent place to stay

if you dont mind the relative isolation. Accommodation in this sprawling garden compound ranges from simple nipa huts to large
cottages complete with bathroom murals.
EATING
Most of the places to stay in town have their

own restaurants, including the one at Sea
Dive Resort, which gets favourable reviews
from some travellers.
Bistro Coron (%0918 305 0750; Don Pedro St, Coron
Town; coq au vin P145) Run by Bruno, a retired
French anthropologist, this excellent little
bistro is easily the best place to eat in Coron
Town. Some of the food is a little oily, but
its all good, including salads, sandwiches,
schnitzel and steaks. Pull up a chair, order
a glass of wine, and enjoy the nightly scene
here as Corons diving elite hobnob with
locals and sunburnt tourists.
Air
Busuanga Island, Coron Town and the rest

of the Calamian Group are served by SEAIR
and Asian Spirit, which operate out of tiny
YKR airport on the north side of Busuanga
Island. Its a one-hour jeepney ride between
the airport and Coron Town; jeepneys meet
incoming flights and run to Coron Town. In
the opposite direction, jeepneys depart from
in front of the airline offices to drop passengers off for departing flights (but it makes
sense to confirm this with your accommodation or the airline office itself). Both SEAIR
(%0920 909 8639; Real St) and Asian Spirit (%0921
691 4574; Real St) have offices in town.
For details on schedules, fares, flight times
and airline contact numbers and websites,
see Getting There & Away (p408) and Getting Around (p409) at the beginning of this
chapter.
Boat
A SuperFerry liner sails once a week from

Manila to Puerto Princesa via Coron and
back again. The office is in the WG&A Office
(%0919 540 1695; Real St).
San Nicolas Shipping (%0918 216 1764) operates three trips weekly (Tuesday, Thursday
and Saturday) between Manila and Coron.
Atienza Shipping Lines (%0927 406 6036) operates a LiminancongEl NidoCoronManila
route.
PA L A W A N
PA L A W A N
INFORMATION
430 C A L A M I A N G R O U P O t h e r I s l a n d s i n t h e C a l a m i a n G r o u p
During the war in the Pacific in 1944, heavy air strikes against Japanese shipping in Manila Bay
resulted in the sinking of 15 ships, which forced the Japanese to move their remaining ships
to other anchorages they thought would be out of range of US naval aircraft and land-based
bombers. One of these secure anchorages was Coron Bay.
Most of the Japanese ships had arrived in Coron Bay by 23 September 1944. A convoy comprising 24 auxiliary ships of the Imperial Japanese Navy was dispersed in the coastal waters around
Busuanga Island. At least eight ships were closely anchored together around Tangat Island (known
locally as Sangat Island), a beautiful limestone island bordered by pristine white beaches and
coconut palm trees. Despite their new location, US aerial reconnaissance detected the Japanese
fleet and a surprise attack by carrier-based US Navy aircraft was planned.
At 6am on 24 September 1944, 180 Grumman H6F Hellcat and SB2C Helldiver planes took
off from aircraft carriers of Vice Admiral William F Halseys Task Force 38. At the time it was the
longest range air attack ever launched from aircraft carriers, some 550km from target, requiring
more than six hours total flying time.
At 9am the planes reached Busuanga Island and surprised the Japanese fleet. After a 40-minute
attack they left behind a scene of devastation, with 24 ships sinking or seriously damaged. Most
of the ships sunk were in the vicinity of Sangat Island.
Several US planes were lost after running out of fuel on the return trip, and some were shot
down by the Japanese fleet in Coron Bay.
Some of the ships sunk in this attack are now sites for wreck diving. The major wrecks are
as follows.
The 150m Akitsushima, a flying boat tender lying at a depth of between 18m and 40m, is
remarkably intact and penetrable through a large crack amidships, but is only for properly trained
divers accompanied by an experienced guide.
The deeper of the other fleet wrecks are the 160m-long Kogyo Maru (between 20m and 34m)
and the 150m-long Irako (between 28m and 40m).
Wrecks more appropriate for less experienced divers include the Tangat Wreck (between 18m
and 30m); a photographers favourite, the Olympia Maru (between 12m and 25m); and the Lusong
Gunboat, which is suitable for both divers and snorkellers as it breaks the surface and rests at
a depth of 10m. Further to the north, the Tae Maru, a tanker that was sunk in separate action,
rests at a depth of between 10m and 26m in waters that are sometimes current-washed, making
it one of the more attractively festooned wrecks in the area.
San Nicolas Shipping (%0918 216 1764) does a

weekly CoronSan Jos trip.
For details on all of these ferry companies and routes, see p408.
GETTING AROUND
See the Air section (p429) for details on

getting to and from YKR airport.
Tricycles within Coron Town cost P5 for
one trip within town.
Hiring a pumpboat and driver for island
hopping near Coron Town costs P1000 to
P1500 per day.
OTHER ISLANDS IN THE CALAMIAN

GROUP
Coron Island, about two kilometres southeast of Coron Town, is one of the main
drawcards in the Calamian Group. How-

C A L A M I A N G R O U P O t h e r I s l a n d s i n t h e C a l a m i a n G r o u p 431
brackish water. Its accessible by a very short

but tricky 25m climb over a jagged rocky wall
of the island (bring good shoes).
Note that there is a P200 admission fee
for Lake Kayangan and a P75 admission
fee for Lake Barracuda. The first P200 fee
should cover entry to Lake Barracuda and
the beaches of Coron Island (fee collectors
will not tell you this; you must inform them
that youve already paid). The fee is usually
collected as you dock on the island.
and anyone after a really special experience,

the resort has a small villa on its own private cove around the corner from the main
beach. This place has its own dive centre
and divers are well catered for here.
Uson Island
who want to get away from it all. Its the only

resort on the island and has its own private
cove. The owner is a diver and can organise
wreck diving. Rates include meals.
Located on Uson Island, a 10-minute boat

ride from Coron Town, Dive Link Resort
(%02-412 0644 in Manila; www.divelink.com.ph; cottages
per person US$258-378; s) has decent cottages in
Lamud Island
About 1 hour by pumpboat from Coron
Town, Lamud Island is home to relaxing
Lamud Island Dive Resort (%0921 217 0404; www
.lamudisland.info; r per person P1000, cottage per person
P1200). This resort is a simple place for those
different sizes and with varying amenities

that sleep up to six people. Theres a swimming pool (used mostly to train beginner
divers) and a poolside bar.
Dimakya Island
Sangat Island
4956 in Manila; www.clubparadisepalawan.com; per person

US$120-180; as) has a variety of rooms and
Located on a private beach on Sangat Island, Sangat Island Reserve (%0919 205 0198;
www.sangat.com.ph; cottages per person from US$65, villa
per person from US$150) is an excellent, well-run
resort, with a stunning location close to

the wrecks. This place offers quite stylish
beachside cottages, which include bathrooms and balconies. For honeymooners
North of Busuanga Island, the glorious little

Dimakya Island is a pocket-sized tropical
playground with a long, white-sand beach
and a good house reef. Club Paradise (%02-838
cottages. The prices here include three daily
meals at the restaurant. Transfer from and
to the airport costs US$20.
Note that the same company also manages a sister resort on the Busuanga mainland called El Rio y Mar Island Resort (www
.elrioymar.com).
ever, there are many other islands in the

archipelago worth visiting, and there are
many empty beaches and bays where you
can pass a pleasant afternoon lolling about
and swimming. Several of the islands are
home to resorts, which range from fairly
simple to quite luxurious.
Coron Island
A 20-minute pumpboat ride from Coron
Town, this is the most fascinating island in
the Calamian Group. The islands two main
attractions are the magical Lake Kayangan and
Lake Barracuda. Accessible by a steep 15-minute
climb over a mountain wall, Lake Kayangan
is a crystal-clear lake with three arms nestled
in the rocky, jungle-clad ramparts of Coron
Island. Lake Barracuda is of more interest to
divers, for its unique layers of fresh, salt and
PA L A W A N
PA L A W A N
THE SUNKEN FLEET OF CORON Andy Pownall Proprietor, Sangat Island Reserve
Directory
BOOK ACCOMMODATION ONLINE
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Activities
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ACCOMMODATION
There is a wide range of accommodation
available in the Philippines, from simple nipa
(palm) huts to international-class hotels. In
this book, we divide accommodation into the
following categories according to the price of
the room (per double, per night): budget (up
to P850), midrange (P850 to P2000), and top
end (over P2000). We list high-season prices
for accommodation in this book, unless otherwise noted. Note that most resorts and hotels
offer discounts of 20% to 40% during the low
season. The high season for accommodation
in the Philippines runs roughly from late November to March.
Guesthouses are basically small hotels that

cater specifically to travellers, often foreign
travellers. These can be found in many of the
towns frequented by travellers. They usually offer a variety of rooms at budget and
midrange prices. The advantage of these
places is that you can meet other travellers
and exchange information. The owners are
often extremely knowledgeable about their
local areas.
PRACTICALITIES
English-language national dailies run
the gamut from the conservative
Manila Bulletin to the critical Philippine
Daily Inquirer and the feel-good Philippine Star. The best of the lot may be
Business World, which has a good entertainment section on Friday. The
International Herald-Tribune can be
found in the big hotels and in bookshops in larger cities. A wide variety of
homegrown and international magazines are also available.
Manila rock/pop stations worth listening to are K-lite 103.5 and Nu Rock
107.5. Manila TV stations broadcast
both English-language and Filipino
programmes.
The Philippines uses the NTSC video
system.
In most places in the Philippines,
electricity is 220V, 50Hz to 60Hz;
exceptions are Baguio (wired onceupon-a-time by US occupation forces),
where voltage is 110V; and some topend hotels, which have both 220V and
110V outlets. Plugs are of the US-style
flat two-pin variety.
The Philippines uses the metric system,
but inches and feet are more common
in everyday use for measuring things
(except textiles, which are often sold in
yards). Weights are normally quoted in
kilograms and distances in kilometres
(see the conversion table on the inside
front cover).
For more accommodation reviews and recommendations by Lonely Planet authors,

check out the online booking service at
www.lonelyplanet.com. Youll find the true,
insider lowdown on the best places to stay.
Reviews are thorough and independent.
Best of all, you can book online.
Hotels
Hotels can be found in most towns and cities
in the Philippines. In the bigger cities, these
will range from extremely simple places,
with only a few rooms, to international
luxury hotels. In the smaller towns, the
hotel offerings may be limited to one or
two simple places.
If your budget only stretches to P300 a
night for a hotel, your options will be extremely limited in most parts of the country. A reasonably clean single broom closet
can be found in many places for about
P500, but youll probably want to double
that price to find anything liveable.
If youre not on a rock-bottom budget,
take a look at midrange hotels. The most expensive rooms in a budget hotel can be very
ordinary and P1000 or so wont seem worth
it; for the same price, the cheapest rooms in
a midrange place are often far superior.
Resorts
Resorts are the main accommodation option on islands and beaches in the Philip-
D I R E C T O R Y A c t i v i t i e s 433
pines. These range from simple clusters of

nipa huts which charge around P700 per
night for the whole hut, to international
luxury resorts that charge in excess of
US$200 per person for one night. Note
that its often more pleasant to stay in a
beachside resort than in a city hotel, so
its worth checking if any resorts lie on the
outskirts of a city when you arrive. You
can always hire a tricycle to check out a
few options.
ACTIVITIES
The Philippines is an adventure-sports and
outdoor-sports paradise. You can snorkel,
dive, surf, trek, cave and cycle your way
around the archipelago.
Canoeing, Kayaking & Rafting

Shooting the rapids in Pagsanjan (p126) is
one of the Philippines major tourist activities. Further north, in the Cordillera region of North Luzon (p153), there is good
white-water rafting on the Chico and Pinacanauan Rivers.
The mighty Tibiao River on Panay churns
up some healthy white water, and kayaking is popular out of the town of Tibiao
(p319).
Resorts often rent kayaks and canoes for
paddling about, and the natural wonders
of places like the Bacuit Archipelago off
Palawan can be appreciated on kayaking
tours. If you have your own equipment, sea
kayaking is excellent off Naga in Southeast
Luzon.
LIVE-ABOARDS
Live-aboards (boats that divers sleep on during dive trips) are the only way to get to many
remote diving sites throughout the Philippines, and live-aboards ranging from custom dive
boats and yachts to converted fishing vessels and modified bangka boats make dive safaris to
islands throughout the Visayas, northern Palawan, the Sibuyan Sea, the Sulu Sea and the Apo
Reef. Live-aboard and dive safaris depart from and/or are organised by dive operators in Puerto
Galera, Boracay, throughout the Visayas, and from most diving destinations in Palawan, including Puerto Princesa.
There are relatively small numbers of live-aboard boats meeting internationally accepted
standards that visit Tubbataha in any given season (February to June). These vessels usually
offer transition trips at reduced prices when moving from and returning to their home ports,
usually in January and June or July.
Those seeking budget trips to the Sulu Sea are catered for with varying degrees of integrity,
and not all of the options are as safe, luxurious or comfortable as the conditions might sometimes
dictate. In general, choosing a live-aboard boat should be as much or more a function of assessing
the safety, seaworthiness and professionalism of an operation rather than the price.
DIREC TORY
DIREC TORY

432
Caving
The Philippines is a spelunkers dream. The
porous limestone that makes up most of the
archipelago is riddled with a fantastic variety of caves, many of which are accessible
to the average traveller. Luzon, in particular, has many interesting caves to explore.
The Callao Cave (p178) in Peablanca, near
Tuguegarao, is a major tourist drawcard,
and there is also good caving around Sagada and Solano.
Bohols best caving can be found near
Antequera (p272) at the Mag-aso and Inambacan Falls. Near Surigao (p371) on Mindanao is Silop Cave, with its 12 entrances
that lead to a large central chamber. Spooky
Siquijor (p294) is honeycombed with caves
that have yielded many surprises, including
ancient Chinese pottery. Still more good
caving can be found on Panay (p298) and
Leyte (p354).
Finally, dont miss the Puerto Princesa
Subterranean River National Park outside
Sabang (p415) on the island of Palawan.
This Unesco World Heritage Site is said to
be the longest underground river-traversed
tunnel in the world.
Cycling
The Philippines isnt all beaches and volcanoes, and mountain-biking is taking off as
an activity in its own right on a number of
islands see p451 for details.
Diving & Snorkelling

See p59 for the lowdown on the top spots
to dive in the Philippines, as well as regulations and requirements, rates and other
information on diving and snorkelling
activities. For even more information, get
yourself a copy of Lonely Planets Diving &
Snorkeling Philippines.
Hiking & Trekking

Hiking is possible on nearly every island
and most famously on Luzon, where a trek
through the awesome rice terraces around
Banaue (p170) and Batad (p173) is a highlight of any trip to the country. There are
also pleasant hikes around Sagada (p164),
and the Batanes (p180) offer rugged coastal
strolls.
Volcano climbing is a popular pastime,
and ranges from short and sweet ascents to
long and sweaty treks. Be aware of current
conditions not only are many of these

volcanoes active, some (such as the tiny
Taal Volcano; see p120) are notoriously so.
You can check with the Philippines Institute
of Volcanology and Seismology (Philvolcs; %02-426
1468; www.phivolcs.dost.gov.ph) in Manila for the
latest conditions.
Hiking around the bizarre lahar formations of Mt Pinatubo (p134) rates highly on
many visitors lists, though the dormant volcano of Mt Banahaw (p127) offers some of
the best hiking on Luzon. Lake Taal (p120)
also has several good hiking options.
Hibok-Hibok volcano on Camiguin (p380)
is a steep, full-day climb. Mt Apo (2954m; see
p392) on Mindanao is the highest mountain
in the Philippines; if youre in good shape, a
three-day trek up the mountain is a rewarding adventure.
Surfing
Although Indonesia is the undisputed surfing mecca of Southeast Asia, the Philippines
has a good assortment of breaks.
Popular destinations on Luzon include
San Fernando (La Union; p142) and Bolinao
(p139) on the Lingayen Gulf, and Daet (p186)
in Southeast Luzon.
Off Mindanaos northeastern tip, Siargao Island (p373) is famed for Cloud Nine,
which is an excellent, if fickle, break.
CHILDREN
Filipinos are simply crazy about kids, and
rather fond of parents, too you and your
offspring will be the focus of many conversations, and your children wont lack for
playful company.
You should supervise your children
when swimming or playing on beaches, and
make sure they understand not to touch
coral. Bring plenty of sunscreen and light
clothes for sun protection. Its important
to keep small children well hydrated in a
hot climate.
You can usually buy disposable nappies
(diapers) and infant formula in most towns
and all cities, but be sure to stock up on
such things before heading off the beaten
track.
Lonely Planets Travel with Children by
Cathy Lanigan has more useful advice about
tropical travel with kids.
Practicalities
Many hotels and resorts offer family rooms
and can provide cots on request. Discreet
breastfeeding in public is acceptable in all
areas except some conservative Muslim
areas in the south. It is almost impossible
to arrange a taxi with a child seat. Some
restaurants can provide a high chair upon
request.
Windsurfing
CLIMATE
Windsurfing is possible all over the Philippines. Lake Taal (p120) and the sea off Anilao (p123) are popular spots, but the wilder
east coast of Boracay (p325) is said to offer
the best conditions for surfers of all skill
levels. Parasailing is also available on some
beaches frequented by foreign visitors.
The Philippines has two seasons: dry and

wet. Generally, the dry season is from November to May and the wet season is from
June to September, though weather patterns have become much less predictable.
By far the hottest month in lowland regions is May, when temperatures hover as
high as 38C. The cooler months are December and January, but unless youre high
in the mountains, 70% to 85% humidity
levels tend to cancel out these low 25C
temperatures.
Rainfall typically comes in sudden, heavy
bursts, and flash flooding is now more common than it should be due to widespread
deforestation and soil erosion.
An average of 20 typhoons, known as
bagyo, whip across the Philippines each
year. Striking mainly in Luzon and the
Visayas, they bring heavy rains and strong
winds and cause millions of dollars worth
of damage. Although typhoons can occur at
BUSINESS HOURS
Banks 9am to 3pm Monday to Friday (most ATMs operate

24 hours daily).
Bars 8pm to late, daily.
Department stores & supermarkets 9am to 7pm or

8pm, daily.
Embassies & consulates 9am to 1pm, Monday to Friday.

Museums 8am to noon and 1pm to 5pm, Monday to
Friday.
Post offices 8am to noon and 1pm to 5pm, Monday to

Friday.
Public & private offices 8am or 9am to 5pm or 6pm,

with a lunch break from noon to 1pm, Monday to Friday.
Restaurants 8am to 11pm, daily.
D I R E C T O R Y C h i l d re n 435
MANILA
C
Average
Max/Min
14m (49ft)
Temp/Humidity
Rainfall
in
40 104
100
20
500
30
75
16
400
12
300
200
100
20
86
68
50
10
50
25
32
CEBU
F
J F MAM J J A S O N D
mm
Average
Max/Min
8m (26ft)
Temp/Humidity
Rainfall
in
40 104
100
200
30
86
75
150
20
68
50
100
25
50
10
50
32
DAVAO
C
Average
Max/Min
17m (59ft)
Temp/Humidity
Rainfall
in
40 104
100
20
500
30
75
16
400
12
300
200
100
20
mm
86
50
68
10
50
25
32
ILOILO
Average
Max/Min
7m (26ft)
Temp/Humidity
Rainfall
in
40 104
100
20
500
30
75
16
400
12
300
200
100
20
mm
86
50
68
10
50
25
32
VIGAN
mm
Average
Max/Min
33m (108ft)
Temp
40
30
in
28
800
26
700
24
600
20
500
16
400
12
300
200
86
20
68
10
Rainfall
F
104
50
4
0
32
mm
100
0
DIREC TORY
DIREC TORY
434 D I R E C T O R Y B u s i n e s s H o u r s
CLIMATIC
ZONES
0
0
200 km
120 miles
1
2
3
4
5
Monsoon
Typhoon
1 Typical Southeast Asian monsoon climate. Long dry season

from November to May and intense rainy period from
June to September.
2 Short dry season from March to May. Although the wet
season from June to February is long, it is not very intense.
3 No clear-cut dry season, with rain falling during most of
the year. The heaviest showers are in the months of
November to January.
4 No clearly defined dry season. The heaviest rainfall is in
the months of April to September.
5 No clearly defined wet or dry season.
any time, they occur most often in the wet

season, from June to September.
CUSTOMS
Firearms, illegal drugs and pornography
are forbidden. You can bring up to 2L of
alcohol and up to 400 cigarettes (or two
tins of tobacco) into the country without
paying duty. Foreign currency of more than
P10,000 must be declared on entry or exit.
DANGERS & ANNOYANCES

Theres no glossing over the fact that the
Philippines has more than its share of dangers and annoyances. These range from the
danger of kidnapping in the south of the
country to the wide range of scams and
rip-offs that await the unwary traveller in

Manila.
Of course, its not just the outright dangers that can make travel unpleasant in
various parts of the Philippines, its also
the annoyances. Depending upon your
sensibilities and values, you may find the
overt prostitution scene quite disturbing,
particularly if you are unlucky enough to
see evidence of the Philippines bustling
child prostitution industry (in places like
Angeles).
Its also worth pointing out that Manila
itself can be extremely challenging for some
travellers. The poverty, air and noise pollution, crowds and heavy traffic conditions
are enough to make even the most seasoned
traveller yearn for escape. Luckily, escape is
usually no more than a quick bus or plane
ride away.
Scams
The most common scam in the Philippines
involves drugging a tourists drinks or food
and then robbing them. Be wary of any
overly friendly stranger offering you food
or drink. Some moneychangers also scam
tourists out of money by using sleight-ofhand gimmicks and short-change scams.
DISABLED TRAVELLERS
Like most developing countries, the Philippines lacks the convenient infrastructure
and services that make getting around easier
for the disabled. Very rarely will you find
wheelchair-accessible toilets or wheelchair
ramps. Moreover, the lack of proper footpaths and the anarchic traffic conditions
of cities like Manila make getting around a
real problem for the mobility impaired. On
the plus side, you will find that Filipinos
are quick to offer assistance. Furthermore,
prices are cheap enough in the Philippines
to make hiring a taxi for the day and/or even
a personal assistant a reasonable option.
DISCOUNT CARDS
A 20% discount on domestic flights is
offered by PAL, Air Philippines, Cebu Pacific and SEAIR for passengers who are at
least 60 years old; your passport will suffice as proof of age. Asian Spirit offers 30%
reductions to seniors.
Some shipping lines discount 15% to
30% if you can show a valid student ID.
EMBASSIES & CONSULATES
Philippine Embassies & Consulates

Australia Canberra (%02-6273 2535/36; www.phil
embassy.au.com; 1 Moonah Place, Yarralumla, Canberra,
ACT 2600); Melbourne (%03-9863 7885; Suite 1205, 1
Queens Rd, Melbourne, VIC 3004); Sydney (%02-9262
7377; phsydpc@ozemail.com.au; Level 1, Philippine Centre,
27-33 Wentworth Ave, Sydney, NSW 2000)
Canada Ottawa (%1613-233 1121; Suite 606, 130 Albert
St, Ottawa, ON K1P5G4); Toronto (%416-922 7181; www
.philcongen-toronto.com; 161 Eglinton Ave East, Suite 800,
Toronto, ON M4P 1J5); Vancouver (%604-685 1619/7645;
www.vancouverpcg.net; Suite 1405, 700 West Pender
Street, Vancouver, BC V6C1G8)
France Paris (%331 4414 5700/5701/5702/5703;
4 Hameau de Boulainvilliers, Paris 75016)
Germany Berlin (%4930-864 9500; www.philippine
-embassy.de; Uhlandstrasse 97, 10715 Berlin); Hamburg
(%040-442 952/953; Jungfrauental 13, 20149 Hamburg)
New Zealand Wellington (%04-472 9848; 50 Hobson
St, Thorndon, Wellington)
UK London (%4420-7937 1600; www.philemb.org.uk; 9A
Palace Green, London W8 4QE)
USA Los Angeles (%213-639 0980; www.philcongenla
.org; Suite 500, 3600 Wilshire Blvd, Los Angeles, CA
900100); San Francisco (%415-433 6666/68/75/80; 6F,
447 Sutter St, San Francisco, CA 94108); Washington DC
(%202-467 9300/9363/9382; www.philippineembassy
-usa.org; 1600 Massachusetts Ave NW, Washington,
DC 20036)
Embassies & Consulates in the

Philippines
EMBASSIES IN MANILA
Australia (Map pp86-7; %02-757 8100/8102; www

.australia.com.ph; 23rd fl, Tower 2, RCBC Plaza, 6819 Ayala
Ave, Makati City)
Canada (Map pp86-7; %02-857 9000/9002/9055/9131;
www.dfait-maeci.gc.ca/manila; 6th & 8th fl, RCBC Plaza,
6819 Ayala Ave, Makati City)
France (Map pp86-7; %02-810 1981-88; 16th fl, Pacific
Star Bldg, cnr Gil Puyat Ave & Makati Ave, Makati City)
Germany (Map pp86-7; %02-892 4906; 6th fl, Solid
Bank Bldg, 777 Paseo de Roxas, Makati City)
Netherlands (Map pp86-7; %02-812 5981; www
.netherlandsembassy.ph; 9th fl, Kings Court Bldg, 2129
Chino Roces Ave, Makati City)
New Zealand (Map pp86-7; %02-891 5358-67; www
.nzembassy.com; 23rd fl, BPI Buendia Center, Gil Puyat Ave,
Salcedo Village, Makati City)
UK (Map pp86-7; %02-816 7116; www.britishembassy
.gov.uk; 15th-17th fl, LV Locsin Bldg, cnr Makati Ave &
Ayala Ave, Makati City)
USA (Map pp80-1; %02-528 6300; www.manila
.usembassy.gov; 1201 Roxas Blvd, Ermita, Manila)
D I R E C T O R Y E m b a s s i e s & C o n s u l a t e s 437
CONSULATES IN CEBU CITY
Canada (%032-254 4749/256 3320; 45-L Andres

Abellana St)
France (%032-232 0936; 556 Juan Luna St, Mabolo)
UK (%032-346 0525; www.britishembassy.gov.uk;
4 Palmera St, Villa Terrace, Greenhills Rd, Casuntingan,
Mandaue City)
USA (%032 231 1261; http://manila.usembassy
.gov/wwwha015.html; Waterfront Hotel, Lahug) US
Consular Agency.
FESTIVALS & EVENTS

January
Three Kings Festival Celebrated in early January, this

festival is a handy way to put off the holiday hangover
until the New Year; it marks the official end of Christmas.
Black Nazarene Procession (p79) The Quiapo Church,
in Manilas Quiapo district, houses the Black Nazarene, a
black image of Christ, which is paraded through the streets
in a massive procession on the second Tuesday of January
and again during Holy Week (the week between Palm
Sunday and Easter).
Kabankalan Sinulog (p286) Held on the second Sunday
of the month in La Carlota on Negros, this is a wild street
party in which dancers are daubed in black in honour of
the islands Negrito people and a feast is held to honour
Santo Nio (the child Jesus).
Ati-Atihan Peaking on the third weekend of the month,
this week-long mother of all mardi gras rages from dawn
to dusk and is at its most riotous in Kalibo on Panay
(p322). Similar festivals are also held in neighbouring
towns. Cadiz on Negros celebrates its Ati-Atihan Festival in
honour of patron saint Santo Nio (residents believe the
Holy Infant protected the settlement from pirate attack) on
the weekend nearest 26 January.
Dinagyang Festival (p300) Held on the fourth weekend
of January in Iloilo City on Panay, this mardi grasstyle
festival honours the Santo Nio with extravagant costumes
and dancing.
Chinese New Year Celebrated in January or February,
the Lunar New Year used to be celebrated by the Chinese
community only, but has become popular among all
Filipinos in recent years; there are dragon dances and
fireworks displays in some places predominantly populated
by Chinese-Filipinos.
February/March
Nuestra Seora de la Candelaria (p300) On 2 February in Jaro, Iloilo City, on the island of Panay, the Feast of
Our Lady of Candles is a street party and religious ritual
in one.
Bamboo Organ Festival (p119) In the second week of
February, music lovers gather at the church of Las Pias,
near Manila, to listen to organists play the worlds only
bamboo organ.
DIREC TORY
DIREC TORY
436 D I R E C T O R Y C u s t o m s
Climatic Zones
Panagbenga Flower Festival For two weeks the

streets in the northern city of Baguio come alive with song
and dance as floral parades with some spectacular floats
are held.
Paraw Regatta (p300) In late February or early March
an exciting race is held between Iloilo City on Panay to
Guimaras Island, in traditional sailing boats called paraw.
Dating from the 16th century, the race imitates the original
journey thought to have been made by Malay settlers
arriving from Borneo. Note that the regatta is sometimes
held in March.
Kaamulan Festival (p385) From mid-February to late
March, Malaybalay, near Cagayan de Oro on Mindanao, is
the setting for this celebration of unity between the tribal
people in the area, through dance, song, storytelling,
eating and drinking.
Sinagayan Festival In mid- to late March, Sagay City on
Negros holds this festival in honour of St Joseph.
April/May
Crucifixion Reenactments On Good Friday during
Holy Week (the week leading to Easter), a combination of
religious fervour and morbid fascination drives the flocks
to places like San Fernando (Pampanga) on Luzon (p132)
to see devotees being literally nailed to wooden crosses.
There are also gangs of flagellants who whip themselves
until they bleed. A more sober affair is Ang Pagtaltal
Sa Guimaras in Jordan on Guimaras (p308); this usually
features a Christ roped rather than nailed to his cross (and
hes often helped up there with a few stiff drinks).
Senakulo & Pabasa Also during Holy Week, passion
plays (senakulo or cenaculo) are staged in various parts of
the country, while pabasa or pasyon, a recitation of the
passion of Christ, is held in many neighbourhoods.
Moriones Festival (p201) In April on the island of
Marinduque, passion plays are staged by townspeople
wearing unique costumes and masks; this is one of most
famous festivals in the Philippines.
Lenten Festival of Herbal Preparation (p295) On
Black Saturday (the day before Easter) in San Antonio on
Siquijor, traditional healers strut their stuff to big crowds.
Dozens of native doctors gather around a big pot, chanting
and preparing a medicinal concoction that people say works.
Pana-ad sa Negros Held in April in Bacolod on Negros,
this was originally a street festival, but now includes lively
displays of arts and crafts from the 22 towns and 10 cities
in the area.
Pistay Dayat (p142) On 1 May the coastal towns of the
Lingayen Gulf on Luzon pay homage to local fishermen
with the areas foremost fiesta.
Pasalamat Festival (p286) On the Sunday nearest
1 May, this fun thanksgiving ritual honours the years
harvest in La Carlota on Negros.
Viva Vigan Festival of the Arts (p148) In the first
week of May, the old historic town of Vigan in the north
celebrates its heritage with, among other events, a kalesa

(horse-drawn carriage) festival, zarzuelas (operettas) and
abel (weaving) exhibits.
Kalabaw Races (p300) In early May, Pavia, just outside
Iloilo City on Panay, is a good place to watch waterbuffalo races.
Flores de Mayo & Santacruzan Throughout the country, May sees little girls in white dresses strewing flowers
around an image of the Virgin Mary in a centuries-old custom known as Flores de Mayo. In the evening, young ladies
with their escorts go around town in a candlelit procession
(Santacruzan), celebrating an old Christian belief about the
finding of the cross by St Helena.
Pahiyas sa Lucban (p128) One of the most famous
fiestas in the Philippines; in May the town of Lucban in
Quezon celebrates by decking its houses with colourful
kiping decorations which are later eaten.
Obando Fiesta Legend has it that women will be blessed
with child if they dance before the image of Santa Clara,
patron saint of Obando in Bulacan, near Manila. Naturally
the towns fiesta, from 17 to 19 May, is celebrated with
lots of dancing.
Balibong Kingking Festival (p271) More street dancing in this fiesta, honouring Our Lady of Guadalupe, held
in late May to June, in the town of Loboc on Bohol.
June
Independence Day Filipinos proclaimed their independence from Spain on 12 June, 1898, an event now
celebrated nationwide with civic parades, including a huge
one at Rizal Park (Luneta) in Manila.
Araw ng Kutabato (p396) In mid-June, the city of
Cotabato on Mindanao plays host to massive dance
parades.
Parada ng Lechon A unique fiesta on 24 June in
Balayan, Batangas, south of Manila, treating visitors to a
parade of lechon (roast suckling pig).
Pintados-Kasadyaan (p356) Held on 29 June, this
painted festival in Tacloban on Leyte celebrates preSpanish traditional tattooing practices, albeit using waterbased paints for the festivals body decorations.
August
Kadayawan sa Dabaw Festival (p389) During the
third week of August, Davao on Mindanao showcases
its Muslim, Chinese and tribal influences with parades,
performances, and fruit and flowers displays.
Lubi-Lubi Festival On 15 August, the town of Calubian,
on Leyte, celebrates the towns namesake, the coconut.
September
Tuna Festival (p393) From 1 to 5 September, General
Santos on Mindanao celebrates the king of all tinned creatures. The festival includes a best-dressed tuna competition, a parade of fishing floats and a sashimi night.
Peafrancia Festival (p187) In the third week of each

September pilgrims flock to Naga in southeast Luzon to
celebrate the Bicol regions patron saint, the Virgin of
Peafrancia.
October
D I R E C T O R Y F o o d 439
national holidays in an attempt to make

Muslim Filipinos feel part of the nation.
Hari Raya Hajj 29 December 2006 to 1 January 2007; 18
December to 21 December 2007
Hijra New Year 20 January 2007; 10 January 2008

Maulod An Nabi (Prophets Birthday) 10 April 2006;
Fiesta de Nuestra Seora Virgen del Pilar (p399)
31 March 2007
Held from 10 to 12 October, this Christian festival also

involves partying, eating and dancing, as well as a big
regatta featuring brightly coloured traditional sail boats.
MassKara Festival (p282) In Bacolod on Negros on
the weekend nearest 19 October, this joyful many faces
festival features mask-wearing participants and dancing
in the streets.
Ramadan 24 September to 23 October 2006; 13 Septem-
November
All Saints Day (Todos los Santos) Around 1 November, Christian cemeteries throughout the archipelago are
spruced up and crypts are given a fresh coat of whitewash.
On the evening of All Saints Day (Halloween in the Western world), families laden with food gather at the local
cemetery to spend the night remembering their departed
loved ones. The atmosphere is surprisingly festive and
foreign visitors who stroll through the cemetery will invariably be invited to join in. If you happen to be in Manila,
dont miss the party at the Chinese Cemetery.
Pintaflores Festival (p292) Held in San Carlos on
Negros from 3 to 5 November, this famously frenzied street
festival has its roots in the traditional Filipino method of
welcoming foreigners; en masse dancing.
Lem-Lunay Festival (p395) Celebrated in the second
week of November at Lake Sebu on Mindanao, this Tboli
festival culminates in the royal sport of horse-fighting.
December
Christmas Lantern Festival On the closest Saturday to
Christmas, truly gigantic Christmas lanterns are paraded
through San Fernando (Pampanga) on Luzon; the lanterns
remain on display until January.
Shariff Kabungsuan Festival (p396) This December
festival in Cotabato on Mindanao celebrates the arrival of
Islam in the region and includes river parades of decorated
boats.
Muslim Holy Days

According to Islamic belief, the day actually begins at sunset, so holidays technically
begin the evening before the solar-calendar
dates given here. Dates may also vary a bit
from whats written: the Islamic calendar
is an approximation, and the actual start of
Ramadan and other months are determined
by the proper sighting of the moon. Most
holy days are observed only in the Muslim
parts of Mindanao, though some are now
ber to 12 October 2007
Hari Raya Puasa (Feast of the Breaking of the

Fast) Begins on the last evening of Ramadan and may last
for three days.
FOOD
For information about eating and drinking
in the Philippines, see the Food & Drink
chapter (p45).
GAY & LESBIAN TRAVELLERS

Homosexuality is generally out in the open,
with bakla or bading (gay men) and tomboy
(lesbians) generally accepted by society at
large.
There are gay cruising places in Manila,
such as particular shopping malls and movie
houses, but you should be wary of police (or
con-men masquerading as police) and hustlers. Remedios Circle in Malate is a lively
gay area, and lodging in the neighbourhood
is usually gay friendly. A gay beauty pageant
is held here annually. The Gay Pride March
in June also takes place around the Circle.
Online gay and lesbian resources for the
Philippines include Utopia Asian Gay & Lesbian
Resources (www.utopia-asia.com).
HOLIDAYS
Many businesses shut for the entire week
before Easter (called Holy Week here) and
for two weeks (or more) over Christmas
and New Years. Expect overseas consulates
and many embassies to take some time off
during these periods as well.
New Years Day 1 January
People Power Day 25 February
Maundy Thursday Varies; around March or April
Good Friday Varies; the day after Maundy Thursday
Araw ng Kagitingan (Bataan Day) 9 April
Labour Day 1 May
Independence Day 12 June
Ninoy Aquino Day 21 August
National Heroes Day Last Sunday in August
All Saints Day 1 November
End of Ramadan Varies; depends on Islamic calendar
Bonifacio Day 30 November
DIREC TORY
DIREC TORY
438 D I R E C T O R Y Fe s t i v a l s & E v e n t s
Christmas Day 25 December

Rizal Day 30 December
New Years Eve 31 December
INSURANCE
A travel-insurance policy to cover theft, loss
and medical problems is a good idea. Some
policies offer lower and higher medicalexpense options. There is a wide variety of
policies available, so check the small print.
Some policies specifically exclude dangerous activities, which can include scuba diving, motorcycling and even trekking. Check
that the policy covers ambulances and an
emergency flight home. See the Health
chapter (p456) for more on health issues in
the Philippines. See the Transport chapter
(p446) for information on car insurance in
the Philippines.
Worldwide cover to travellers from more
than 44 countries is available online at www
.lonelyplanet.com/travel_services.
INTERNET ACCESS
Email and Internet services have taken off
in a big way in the Philippines, and plenty
of hotels, resorts and cybercafs will allow
you to keep in touch with the virtual outside
world. Even many of the smallest towns and
islands have email facilities.
Rates for email/Internet access can be as
low as P20 per hour, particularly in Cebu
City, where there seems to be a cybercaf at
every other street corner. There are plenty
of cybercafs, or Internet cafs, as the locals
call them, in cities and big towns, and generally connections are fast and efficient.
If youve got a portable computer for this
purpose, note the voltage used (see p432 for
details). US-style RJ-11 telephone adaptors
are commonly used in the Philippines, so
ensure that you at least have a US RJ-11
adaptor that works with your modem.
See p17 for some useful websites on the
Philippines.
LEGAL MATTERS
Should you find yourself in trouble with the
law in the Philippines, your first recourse is
your embassy, so make a point of writing
down the phone number as a protective
measure. Some of the embassies and consulates in the Philippines are listed on p437.
Though drug use or smuggling does not
automatically carry the death penalty in the
Philippines, as it does in some other Southeast Asian countries, its nonetheless a very
serious offence. In fact, depending on the
type and amount of drugs that offenders
are caught with, they can still end up on
death row.
If you do get into trouble in the Philippines, after contacting your embassy you
may also want to contact a lawyer. Almost
all lawyers in the Philippines speak good
English, so communication should not be
an issue.
If you find yourself the victim of theft
or some other crime you can either seek
help at the nearest police station or call the
24-hour service provided by the Philippine
Department of Tourism (DOT; % 02-524 1660 in
Manila).
moneychangers, who seem to have made a

science out of ripping off tourists; Lonely
Planet receives stacks of letters and emails
each year from victims of these schemes
dont say you werent warned!
Theres a bewildering array of banks operating in the Philippines, so look around
before deciding which to use. The Philippine National Bank (PNB), Equitable PCI
Bank, Metrobank, Rizal Commercial Banking Corporation (RCBC) and Bank of the
Philippine Islands (BPI) are some of the
big names in local banking. Global banks,
such as Citibank and HSBC (Hong Kong
and Shanghai Banking Corporation), also
provide consumer-banking services in the
Philippines.
MAPS
Credit, debit and cash cards can be used to

get cash or cash advances from thousands of
ATMs throughout the country. Check with
your bank or credit-card company (or look
on the back of your card) to see which ATM
network your card is connected to. For getting cash, Cirrus and Plus are the most widely
accepted; for cash advances, MasterCard is
the most widely accepted, followed by Visa.
Cash advances from ATMs are in local
currency, and may be subject to a daily
withdrawal limit. Metrobank and Equitable
PCI ATMs have cash withdrawal limits of
P4000 and P5000, respectively. HSBC machines have no limits youre only limited
by your own banks daily withdrawal limit.
Particularly in the big cities, ATMs operate 24 hours daily, and can be found in
department stores, supermarkets and shopping malls, in addition to banks. Note that
ATMs in the Philippines have a curious
system of posting online or offline signs
to indicate whether or not the machine is
in operation.
For a map of the entire country, the best of

the lot is probably Nelles Verlags 1:1,500,000
scale Philippines. For local travel, E-Z Maps
(published by United Tourist Promotions)
produces a series of maps on several of the
countrys bigger cities and some islands.
E-Z also produces an A4-size travel atlas of
the Philippines which is useful for anyone
planning to drive around the country. The
Nelles map is available internationally; the
E-Z Maps are best picked up once you arrive. See p71 for information on maps of
Manila.
MONEY
The unit of currency in the Philippines is
the peso (P), which is also spelled piso in
Filipino, and is divided into 100 centavos
(c). Banknotes come in denominations of
10, 20, 50, 100, 200, 500, 1000 and 2000
pesos. Coins are in 10c and 25c pieces, and
P1, P5 and P10.
The smartest way to bring cash to the
Philippines is in the form of a credit card,
cash card or debit card. Provided you have
your PIN, you can use these to get cash or
cash advances from thousands of banks and
ATMs in the Philippines (but dont expect
to find these in rural areas always stock
up on cash before leaving a city).
Of course, youll want to back up your
plastic with some cash (US dollars are
the most widely accepted) and travellers
cheques. Using plastic with a cash back-up
will save you from having to deal with local
ATMs
Cash
With the usual precautions, carrying cash
(US dollars is the currency of choice) is
no particular problem; its actually a good
idea to have a US$50 and/or US$100 note
stashed somewhere secure and accessible in
case you cant find a bank or an ATM, or
youre out of travellers cheques.
As for pesos, Sorry, no change becomes
a familiar line stock up on notes smaller
than P100 at every opportunity.
D I R E C T O R Y M o n e y 441
Credit Cards
Many shops, restaurants, hotels and resorts
accept payment by plastic, and credit-card
cash advances are possible in larger towns
and cities; in small towns and on islands
rarely visited there are often no provisions
for credit cards (Palawan, in particular, has
few places that accept credit cards).
A shop-front sign that reads Visa accepted or MasterCard accepted may well
refer only to the Philippines-issued version,
so check with the shop personnel by showing them your card. Also note that some
establishments will try to add (at times surreptitiously) a surcharge to your bill when
you pay with a credit card, on the grounds
that they themselves have to pay a surcharge
to the credit-card company. Its all up to
you whether to accept this rather irritating
practice or not. You may be able to avoid
this charge by using another card.
If your MasterCard is lost, stolen or eaten
by an ungrateful ATM, the toll-free number
to call in the Philippines is %1 800 1111
0061. For Visa cardholders, the number is
%1 800 1111 0248. Be forewarned, however,
that trying to get through to a 1 800 number
in the Philippines can be as fruitless as trying to reach somebody in the middle of the
Sahara!
There are incidents of credit-card fraud
in the Philippines, as in many other countries. To prevent this, keep a close eye on
your card at all times never, for example,
allow a shop clerk to disappear into a back
room with it (where someone would be able
to make several imprints with your card).
Likewise, keep a careful record of all your
credit-card transactions while in the Philippines, save your receipts, and check your
credit-card statements.
You can get cash advances with credit
cards from many ATMs and banks in the
Philippines. Note that this is different from
simply getting cash from your account with
a cash or debit card a cash advance is like
a credit-card purchase in that you must pay
it back, and with interest if you dont pay
your account in full each month. Also keep
in mind that there may not be any ATMs or
banks in smaller towns and rural areas, so,
as usual, it pays to cash up (within reasonable limits) before heading into the sticks.
While many ATMs in the Philippines
accept cash cards linked to the Cirrus
DIREC TORY
DIREC TORY
440 D I R E C T O R Y I n s u r a n c e
and Plus networks, far fewer are linked to

international credit-card networks, such as
MasterCard and Visa. If the ATM in question does not accept your credit card, it may
still be possible to get an over-the-counter
cash advance from the bank. However, this
can be a slow and tedious procedure.
Equitable PCI Banks will issue cash advances for most major cards, including
MasterCard and Visa, so this is usually
a good bet, but be warned that only one
branch in any town is likely to offer this
service, so you may have to travel to find
the correct branch.
Moneychangers
Moneychangers are usually easy to find in
the commercial centres of most cities; some
department stores and shopping malls also
have moneychangers on the premises.
Moneychangers usually offer the best rates,
but they are also notorious for all manner
of short-change scams and rip-offs. Because
of the risk of rip-offs, its best to use moneychangers selectively if possible, change
your cash or travellers cheques at a bank,
hotel or resort, even if the rate is usually
lower than at a moneychanger.
In Manila you should have no trouble
changing US dollars, British pounds or
euros; Japanese yen is also widely accepted,
as are Canadian and Australian dollars,
ASEAN currencies, and some currencies
from the Middle East.
There are no particular hassles with exchanging pesos when you leave, unless youre
carrying a huge amount. But even then your
only problem might be locating a moneychanger with enough US dollars to change
them into.
Tipping
Tipping (about 5% to 10%) in the Philippines
is expected, though not demanded, mainly
in restaurants, where its a component of the
staffs wages. Round up taxi fares (for example, from P164 to P170), assuming the meter
is correct.
Travellers Cheques
US-dollar travellers cheques are the most
secure and reliable way to carry funds.
American Express (AmEx) is by far the
most widely recognised and you may find
it difficult to exchange cheques from other
companies. An instant replacement policy

on lost or stolen cheques is highly desirable,
so check that the company will honour this
policy in the Philippines before you buy.
Cashing travellers cheques is best done
at a bank, although this can be time consuming. Most places charge a small fee to
cash travellers cheques ask about the fee
beforehand and decide how many cheques
you want to cash at one time.
In principle, changing travellers cheques
is quite simple: you only need to bring along
your passport and the original purchase receipts. In practice though, banks and moneychangers can be reluctant to accept travellers
cheques, so to minimise hassles its wise to
plan your money conversions in towns with
a couple of exchange options.
Even in a city such as Manila, only a handful of banks and moneychangers change
travellers cheques in currencies other than
US dollars. Outside the big cities, US dollars
are generally the only currency accepted,
either for cash or travellers cheques, though
the Japanese yen is gaining greater acceptance as an alternative to the greenback. The
rate is generally slightly lower for travellers
cheques than for cash.
PHOTOGRAPHY & VIDEO

Its a good idea to bring your own slide film,
as its probably fresher than the film available in the Philippines. Print film spends
less time on shop shelves so it should be
more reliable, but its better to stock up
where you can. Kodak Ektachrome EPP 120
costs P180 while Kodak Ektachrome EPP
135-36 is priced at P290.
Fast and reliable one-hour film processing is available in Manila and major cities
for approximately P5.50 per print plus a
P50 developing charge; cheaper processing
takes longer. Slide processing is available
only at some professional labs.
POST
The postal system is generally efficient
even from provincial towns, mail tends to
get to where it is intended to go. Just dont
tempt fate by enclosing cash (or, if you must
send it, sandwich it between two pieces of
carbon paper so its not visible when the
envelope is held against the light). If youre
nervous about stamps falling off or being
removed, have the items franked instead.
SHOPPING
Manilas malls and markets offer a range of
authentic items from around the country,
and lots of touristy trinkets as well. Handicrafts are popular and often of high quality; they include wooden salad bowls and
utensils, and hanging lamps and chandeliers made of shells.
Items designed for tourists are especially
plentiful in Manilas traditional tourist belt
Ermita and Malate as well as in the huge
air-conditioned malls where you can find virtually anything. Many well-known designer
brands from the West, such as Polo, Armani
and Guess, have shops at these malls. Here
you can pick up brand-name clothing at a
fraction of its cost in the West. The Barong
Tagalog, the traditional embroidered shirt
worn by Filipino men, is also a good buy.
Philippine markets are a must-see, if only
to experience the amazing riot of colours
and delightful cacophony of sounds. The
fruit section will make you want to sample
the many types of bananas, mangoes and
other tropical fruits on display.
You can find markets of varying sizes in
almost all Philippine cities and towns. Some
are held only once or twice a week ask a
local for advice.
Traditional items can be found in cities
such as Cebu, Davao and Zamboanga, or
you could go to the source. The pickings are
often better off the beaten track: Tacloban
on Leyte is famous for the quality of its
abaca (native hemp plant) products, Iligan
on Mindanao has a good range of Muslimproduced handicrafts, while Lake Sebu is
the heartland of the Tboli people and their
weaving and betel-nut box-making.
Bargaining
Try bargaining in shops and markets, as
Filipinos do. After all, foreigners are often
quoted higher prices. However, as with anywhere else, it pays to remain good-natured.
Its also best not to try to drive too hard a
bargain. If you cant get the price you want,
graciously decline to do business and excuse
yourself. Remember, bargaining too hard or
too aggressively will cause the vendor to lose
face. And its a good idea to keep in mind
how much money youre actually bargaining for it may seem like a lot in pesos, but
when you convert it to your own currency,
it may be a pittance.
D I R E C T O R Y S h o p p i n g 443
In department stores and shopping malls,

fixed prices are just that.
SOLO TRAVELLERS
The Philippines is a good country for solo
travellers. The only caveat here is that some
foreign female travellers, particularly solo
ones, have reported problems in the conservative Muslim areas of the south. If you
are worried about this, you will probably
feel safer in places like Boracay or Cebu,
where the locals are very used to foreign
women travelling by themselves.
TELEPHONE & FAX

In much of the Philippines, landlines are very
rare indeed, and mobile (cell) phones are the
only way to contact the outside world. And, of
course, in some places, you cant get mobilephone service at all (but isnt this half the
reason for travelling to an outer island?).
In Manila and other big cities the Philippine Long Distance Telephone Company
(PLDT) provides acceptable long-distance
services.
Within Luzon you should now be able to
reach most numbers directly, though calls
to/from far-flung areas like Samar can often
only be placed through the operator, and this
depends on being able to reach the operator
in the first place! The number for the PLDT
domestic operator is %109 (%108 for international); for directory assistance in Manila,
call %114 (%112 for area/country code
or regional inquiries). Those numbers only
work if youre calling from a PLDT phone.
You cant access the PLDT operator or directory inquiries from a non-PLDT phone.
Midrange hotels often have International/
Domestic Direct Dialing (IDD/DDD) phones
in their rooms, but if youre averse to paying the (usually usurious) hotel surcharge,
you can make your calls from a payphone
in the foyer (lobby) or outside the hotel. In
the provinces there are few private or public
phones and you can only make or receive
calls at your hotel or at the local branch of
the main phone companies.
IDD phone calls are cheaper to make
than operator-assisted calls, and both PLDT
and BayanTel offer a flat rate of US$0.40
per minute to anywhere around the world,
regardless of what time you make the call.
At times it may be better to call reversecharges (collect) rather than pay for a call
DIREC TORY
DIREC TORY
442 D I R E C T O R Y P h o t o g r a p h y & V i d e o
locally. PLDTs Country Direct service puts

you through to an operator in the country
you are calling, who will then place your call
for you. Dial %105 (%10-10-500 for the
USA) to enter the system, then the required
country code (commonly used codes are
listed in phone boxes). The service is available to over 40 destinations worldwide.
Mobile Phones
Now carried by legions of Filipinos, mobile (cell) phones are commonplace in the
Philippines. If your phone company offers
international roaming for the Philippines,
you should be able to use your mobile
phone (provided its a relatively new model)
and home SIM card in the Philippines, but
check the roaming charges as they may be
many times higher than Philippine rates.
In fact, you just might be better off buying a mobile phone locally. In big cities
you can pick up a unit with text and other
functions for as little as P3000, and that
includes a SIM card and a prepaid call card.
Globe and Smart are the two frontrunners
in the local mobile-phone market. The stiff
competition between these service providers works to the advantage of consumers
calls can cost as little as P6.50 a minute.
Text messaging costs only P2 to send.
Mobile-phone charges can be paid each
month or with a prepaid card. Like phonecards, these come in various denominations
and are readily available at phone kiosks in
shopping centres. You may also purchase
electronic load (e-load) at designated outlets,
often even at local sari-sari stores, for as low
as P30. Locally purchased mobile phones can
make IDD/DDD calls as well as receive calls
from outside the country. International rates
for mobile phone calls are so low that mobiles
can actually be the cheapest way to make international calls from the Philippines.
Phonecards
Coin-operated phones have become rare
in Manila, but card-operated phones are
widely available in hotel foyers, commercial
centres and shopping malls. Phonecards
can be purchased from vending machines
or kiosks in practically any shopping area,
and come in various denominations, the
most common of which is P100.
PLDT and the other phone companies
issue phonecards, but these can be only used
in the companys own phones, so make sure

you get the card you want. If only because
PLDT phones are more widely available,
its probably best to buy a PLDT Fonkard
Plus card. PLDT claims you can use the card
to call from PLDT payphones nationwide.
Phonecards can be used to make IDD and
DDD calls from public payphones, but make
sure you have the right denomination to
avoid the hassle of getting suddenly cut off.
TIME
The Philippines is eight hours ahead of
Greenwich Mean Time/Universal Time
Coordinated (GMT/UTC). Thus, when
its noon in Manila, its 8pm the previous
evening in Los Angeles and 11pm the previous night in New York; 4am the same day in
London; 1pm the same day in Tokyo; and
2pm the same day in Sydney.
Official time in Davao, Mindanaos capital, is curiously about 10 minutes ahead of
the rest of the country. No-ones quite sure
how or why it happened, but no-one seems
too troubled about it.
TOILETS
A toilet is referred to as a comfort room
(CR). In Filipino, men are lalake and women
are babae. Where there are no public toilets,
Filipino men will often avail themselves of
the nearest outdoor wall hence the signs
scrawled in many places: Bawal Ang Umihi
Dito! (No Pissing Here!), though nowadays
in Manila there are small walled urinals along
the main streets (you can tell them by their
screaming pink paint). If you need a toilet,
try a mall or fast-food restaurant.
TOURIST INFORMATION
The official organ of Philippine tourism is the
Philippine Department of Tourism (DOT).
The main DOT centre in Manila (p75) has
helpful staff, but you dont need to load up
with brochures and computer printouts
regional outlets stock the same information
and may be more up to date.
Youll find regional DOT offices in many
of the more popular destinations throughout the Philippines, although some offices
offer more useful services than others.
Tourist Offices Abroad

Australia Sydney (%02-9283 0711; Level 1, Philippine
Centre, 27-33 Wentworth Ave, Sydney, NSW 2000)

D I R E C T O R Y V i s a s 445
Canada Toronto (%416-924 3569; www.wowphilip

pines.ca; 151 Bloor Street, West Suite 1120, Toronto,
Ontario M5S 1S4)
France Paris (%331 42 65 02 34; c/o Philippines
Embassy, 3 Faubourg Saint Honor, 75008 Paris)
Germany Frankfurt (%4969-2089394; Level 1, Kaiserhofstrasse 7, D-60313 Frankfurt am Main)
UK London (%44207-835 1100; www.wowphilippines
.co.uk; c/o Philippine Embassy, 146 Cromwell Rd, London
SW7 4EF)
USA Chicago (%312-782 2475; Suite 913, 30 North
Michigan Ave, Chicago IL 60602); Los Angeles (%213487 4525; Suite 216, 3660 Wilshire Blvd, Los Angeles, CA
90010); New York (%212-575 7915; 556 5th Ave, New
York, NY 10036); San Francisco (%415-956 4060; Suite
507, 447 Sutter St, San Francisco, CA 94108)
VISAS
Visa regulations in the Philippines are
subject to change so be sure to check with
a Philippine embassy or consulate before
making your travel plans (see p437 for a list
of embassies and consulates).
At the time of writing, citizens of nearly
all countries did not need a visa to enter the
Philippines for stays of less than 22 days
youll be given a 21-day visa on arrival in
the country. However, you may well be
asked for proof of an exit or onward ticket
upon arrival in the country (see right).
For longer stays, before you travel apply
at a Philippine embassy or consulate for a
three-month single-entry visa, which usually costs US$30. Multiple-entry visas valid
for up to six or twelve months are also available ($60 or $90 respectively), but youll still
be limited to 59-day stays.
Most Philippine embassies and consulates wont issue you a visa without proof of
a ticket for onward travel from the Philippines. Usually, a photocopy of your itinerary from your travel agent is enough, but
some ask to see the actual ticket.
Visa Extensions
If you want to stay beyond the 21 or 59 days
youve been given on arrival, youll have to
deal with a local immigration office. Fortunately, you can now buy your way past a
lot of the red tape with a P500 express fee,
which may be pricey but it ensures that your
application is processed in only a few hours,
rather than the usual five to seven days.
Currently, 21-day visas can be extended
to 59 days for P2020. Longer extensions (up
to a maximum of six months) are possible,

with correspondingly higher fees. Youll need
photocopies of the identity page and the Philippine entry stamp from your passport, and
you may need to show an onward ticket.
Manilas massive Bureau of Immigration
(Map p76; %02-527 3265; Magallanes Dr; h8am-noon
& 1-5pm Mon-Fri) squats between the Pasig River
and the Intramuros city walls. A visit to

this imposing edifice is a formal occasion:
casual clothes, such as shorts and singlets,
are prohibited flip-flops (thongs) are also
a bad fashion statement and youll need
proof of identity to enter the building.
Visa extensions from 21 to 59 days can
often be handled faster by the regional
immigration offices in San Fernando (La
Union) and Cebu City, but remember to
dress for success.
Onward Tickets
Officially, you must have a ticket for onward
travel to enter the Philippines. This applies
both to those who apply for visas before arriving in the Philippines and those who hope
to receive a 21-day visa on arrival. In practice, immigration inspectors at the airport
dont always ask to see an onward ticket.
WOMEN TRAVELLERS
Foreign women travellers will generally
have few problems in most of the Philippines. However, in the south, in conservative Muslim places like Mindanao, women
travellers may face unwelcome sexual advances. It is extremely unlikely to go further
than this, however, and one solution is to
announce that you are in fact a widow
(being married isnt a deterrent).
Women travellers should also be aware
that tampons are not widely available in the
Philippines (pads are more commonly used
and are more commonly available). If you
use tampons, be sure to bring an adequate
supply from home.
WORK
Nonresident aliens are not permitted to be
employed or to theoretically look for work
without a valid work permit, while foreign
residents require work registration. Contact
the Department of Labor & Employment (DOLE;
Map p76; %02-527 8000; www.dole.gov.ph; DOLE Bldg,
General Luna St cnr Muralla St, Intramuros, Manila) to ob-
tain either a work permit or registration.
DIREC TORY
DIREC TORY
444 D I R E C T O R Y Ti m e

446
Transport
Lumpur, Malaysia), Tiger Airways (to and

from Singapore), and CR Airways (to and
from Hong Kong).

Entering the Country
Air
Sea
Tours
Getting Around
Air
Bicycle
Boat
Bus
Car & Motorcycle
Hitching
Local Transport
Tours
Train
446
446
446
449
449
449
449
451
451
452
452
453
453
455
455
THINGS CHANGE
The information in this chapter is particularly vulnerable to change: prices for
international travel are volatile, routes
are introduced and cancelled, schedules
change, special deals come and go, and
rules and visa requirements are amended.
You should check directly with the airline or
a travel agent to make sure you understand
how a fare (and ticket you may buy) works
and be aware of the security requirements
for international travel. Shop carefully. The
details given in this chapter should be regarded as pointers and are not a substitute
for your own careful, up-to-date research.
GETTING THERE &

AWAY
ENTERING THE COUNTRY
Most people enter the Philippines at Manilas Ninoy Aquino International Airport
(NAIA). This is a dismal introduction to
the country: lines are often long at immigration, and the entire facility is in need
of a facelift. That said, once you clear the
AIR
Airports & Airlines

Since most people fly to the Philippines and
most flights land in Manila, Ninoy Aquino
International Airport (NAIA; Map p84; % 02-877
1109; http://203.160.183.226/miaa) in Paraaque, is
likely to be your first taste of the Philippines. Too bad, but dont despair most
of the country is a lot better run than decrepit old NAIA. Doubtless as an incentive
for people to fly with Philippine Airlines
(PAL), the national carrier, its passengers
get exclusive use of the nicer Centennial
Terminal (NAIA II).
Cebu Citys Mactan-Cebu International Airport (MCIA; Map p243; %032-340 2486; www.mactan
-cebuairport.com.ph) is the countrys second-busiest airport and is much better. Depending
on your itinerary, Cebus airport may also
be a more practical entry or exit point. The
biggest advantage of flying into Cebu is that
it saves you having to deal with the chaos
of Manila (and its unscrupulous taxi drivers). Cebu has international connections
to Hong Kong with Cathay Pacific, Kuala
Lumpur (via Kota Kinabalu) with Malaysian
Airlines, Singapore with SilkAir, and Hong
Kong, Tokyo and Seoul with Philippine Airlines. Since all these cities are well served
with international connections, its easy for
the determined traveller to arrive in Cebu
rather than Manila.
Another airport in the Philippines with
regular international connections is Francisco Bangoy International Airport (DVO)
in Davao on Mindanao, which has flights to
and from Singapore with SilkAir.
Previously confined to cargo, the Diosdado Macapagal International Airport
(DMIA, formerly Clark) in Angeles City
now handles international flights by AirAsia (to and from Kota Kinabalu and Kuala
AIRLINES FLYING TO & FROM THE

PHILIPPINES
Air France (AF; %02-887 1202; www.airfrance.com;

hub Charles de Gaulle Airport, Paris)
Air Macau (NX; %02-243 3111; http://en.airmacau
.com.mo; hub Macau International Airport, Macau)
Air Niugini (PX; %02-891 3339; www.airniugini.com
.pg; hub Port Moresby Jacksons International Airport, Port
Moresby)
Air Philippines (2P; %02-851 7601; www.airphils
.com; hub Ninoy Aquino International Airport, Manila)
Asiana Airlines (OZ; %02-892 5688; http://us.fly
asiana.com; hub Incheon International Airport, Seoul)
Cathay Pacific (CX; %02-757 0888; www.cathaypacific
.com; hub Hong Kong International Airport, Hong Kong)
Cebu Pacific Air (5J; %02-636 4938; www.cebupacific
air.com; hub Mactan-Cebu International Airport, Lapu-Lapu
City, Mactan Island)
China Airlines (CI; %02-521 9331; www.china-air
lines.com/en; hub Chiang Kai-Shek International Airport,
Taoyuan)
China Southern Airlines (CZ; %02-551 3333;
www.cs-air.com/en; hub Baiyun International Airport,
Guangzhou)
Continental Airlines (CO; %02-818 8701; www
.continental.com; hub Houston Intercontinental Airport,
Houston)
Emirates (EK; %02-811 5278; www.emirates.com; hub
Dubai International Airport, Dubai)
EVA Air (BR; %02-864 3800; www.evaair.com/html
/b2c/english; hub Chiang Kai-Shek International Airport,
Taoyuan)
Gulf Air (GF; %02-817 8383; www.gulfairco.com; hub
Bahrain International Airport, Bahrain)
Japan Airlines (JL; %02-886 6868; www.jal.co.jp/en;
hub Narita Airport, Tokyo)
KLM (KL; %02-887 1202; www.klm.com; hub Schiphol
Airport, Amsterdam)
Korean Air (KE; %02-817 6668; www.koreanair.com;
hub Incheon International Airport, Seoul)
Kuwait Airways (KU; %02-812 9579; www.kuwait
-airways.com/en; hub Kuwait International Airport, Kuwait)
Lufthansa Airlines (LH; %02-580 6400; www
.lufthansa.com; hub Frankfurt Main Airport, Frankfurt)
Malaysia Airlines (MH; %02-525 9404; www.malay
siaairlines.com; hub Kuala Lumpur)
Northwest Airlines (NW; %02-521 1928; www
.nwa.com; hub Minneapolis-St Paul International Airport,
Minneapolis)
Orient Thai Airlines (OX; www.fly12go.com; hub Chiang
Mai International Airport, Chiang Mai)
Philippine Airlines (PR; %02-817 1234; www.philip

pineairlines.com; hub Manila Ninoy Aquino International
Airport, Manila)
Qantas (QF; %02-812 0607; www.qantas.com; hub
Sydney Kingsford Smith Airport, Sydney)
Qatar Airways (QR; %02-812 1888; www.qatarair
ways.com; hub Doha International Airport, Qatar)
Royal Brunei (BI; %02-897 3309; www.bruneiair.com;
hub Brunei International Airport, Brunei)
Saudi Arabian Airlines (SV; %02-896 3046; www
.saudiairlines.com; hub King Abdulaziz International
Airport, Jeddah)
Thai Airways International (TG; %02-812 4744;
www.thaiair.com; hub Bangkok International Airport,
Bangkok)
Tickets
Book well in advance if you plan to arrive in the Philippines during December
expat Filipinos flood the islands to visit
their families during Christmas and New
Year. If youre flying into Cebu, the leadup to Lunar New Year in late January or
early February can also get congested, as the
citys sizeable Chinese population prepares
to celebrate.
INTERCONTINENTAL (RTW) TICKETS
If youre planning an extended trip with

stops in several countries, a round-theworld (RTW) ticket may be your best bet.
Check with the travel agencies listed in the
following sections for the best deals on RTW
tickets. Alternatively, check the websites of
major international airlines such as Qantas,
British Airways and American Airlines to
see if there are any RTW specials on offer
to Web surfers.
Another option from the US west coast is
a Circle Pacific ticket, which allows you to
hop around the Pacific and Asia.
Australia
The best place to look for cheap fares is
in the travel sections of weekend newspapers, such as the Age in Melbourne and
the Sydney Morning Herald. Two wellknown agencies for cheap fares are STA
INTERNATIONAL DEPARTURE TAX
Departure tax for all flights leaving the Philippines is P550, payable in cash only (US
dollars or Philippine pesos).
TRANSPORT
TRANSPORT
CONTENTS
lines immigration is usually straightforward. You may be asked to show an ongoing ticket, and most nationalities are issued
a 21-day visa on the spot (see p445 for more
details).
Flights, tours and train tickets can be
booked online at www.lonelyplanet.com
/travel_services.
G E T T I N G T H E R E & A W AY A i r 447
448 G E T T I N G T H E R E & A W AY A i r
Canada
Travel Cuts (%800-667-2887; www.travelcuts.com)
is Canadas national student travel agency.
For online bookings try www.expedia.ca
and www.travelocity.ca.
United and PAL fly between Canada
and Manila. Alternatively, its possible to
fly from Vancouver to Manila or Cebu via
several Asian cities on a variety of airlines.
Continental Europe
Air France offers direct flights from Paris
to Manila; otherwise, you can fly via an
Asian or Middle Eastern capital. The cheapest return fares are on the Middle Eastern
carriers.
Lufthansa offers direct flights from
Frankfurt to Manila (stopping in Bangkok).
Otherwise, its necessary to take a connecting flight via an Asian or Middle Eastern
capital on Malaysia Airlines, Singapore Airlines or Qatar Airways.
There are direct flights from Amsterdam to Manila on KLM, and connecting
flights on Cathay Pacific (via Hong Kong),
Swiss Air (via Zurich), Singapore Airlines
(via Singapore) and Malaysia Airlines (via
Kuala Lumpur), among others.
Some recommended travel agencies in
continental Europe include:
FRANCE
Lastminute (%01805 284 366; www.lastminute.de)

STA Travel (%01805 456 422; www.statravel.de) For
travellers under the age of 26.
ITALY
CTS Viaggi (%06 462 0431; www.cts.it)

NETHERLANDS
Airfair (%020 620 5121; www.airfair.nl)

SPAIN
Barcelo Viajes (%902 116 226; www.barceloviajes

.com)
New Zealand
Both Flight Centre (%0800 243 544; www.flight
centre.co.nz) and STA Travel (%0508 782 872; www
.statravel.co.nz) have branches throughout New
Zealand.
Currently there are no direct flights between New Zealand and the Philippines; the
usual route is to fly to Sydney and pick up
a direct flight from there. Alternatively, its
possible to fly direct from New Zealand to
an Asian city like Singapore or Hong Kong
and fly to the Philippines from there.
Return fares on Singapore Airlines (via
Singapore) or Malaysia Airlines (via Kuala
Lumpur) are popular choices for flights
between New Zealand and the Philippines.
UK & Ireland
The cheapest flights to Manila are usually
with Qatar Airways. Other carriers flying
between the UK and the Philippines include Air France, or Asian airlines such as
Singapore Airlines or Cathay Pacific. Malaysia Airlines, Cathay Pacific and Singapore Airlines also offer flights into Cebu for
slightly higher prices.
Recommended travel agencies include
the following:
Flight Centre (%0870 890 8099; www.flightcentre
Anyway (%0892 893 892; www.anyway.fr)

Lastminute (%0892 705 000; www.lastminute.fr)
Nouvelles Frontires (%0825 000 747; www
.co.uk)
.nouvelles-frontieres.fr)
OTU Voyages (www.otu.fr) This agency specialises in
student and youth travellers.
Voyageurs du Monde (%01 40 15 11 15; www.vdm
.com)
North-South Travel (%01245 608 291; www.north
GERMANY
Expedia (www.expedia.de)
Just Travel (%089 747 3330; www.justtravel.de)
Flightbookers (%0870 010 7000; www.ebookers

.com)
southtravel.co.uk) North-South Travel donate part of their
profit to projects in the developing world.
Quest Travel (%0870 442 3542; www.questtravel
.com)
STA Travel (%0870 160 0599; www.statravel.co.uk) For
travellers under the age of 26.
Trailfinders (www.trailfinders.co.uk)
Travel Bag (%0870 890 1456; www.travelbag.co.uk)
USA
PAL offers the only direct flights to the Philippines from mainland USA, with flights
from both Los Angeles and San Francisco.
Other airlines that serve the Philippines
from the USA include Northwest (via
Tokyo), Japan Airlines (via Tokyo), All
Nippon Airways (via Tokyo), Korean Airlines (via Seoul) and China Airlines (via
Taipei).
The following are recommended for online bookings.
Cheap Tickets (www.cheaptickets.com)
Expedia (www.expedia.com)
Lowestfare.com (www.lowestfare.com)
Orbitz (www.orbitz.com)
STA (www.sta.com)
Travelocity (www.travelocity.com)
SEA
Its possible to travel by sea between the
Philippines and nearby parts of Malaysia
and Indonesia. However, schedules and
routes are very liable to change so its best
to be flexible in your plans.
Indonesia
EPA Shipping Line (%083-380 3591) has ferries
that sail between General Santos in Mindanao and the deep-water port of Bitung,
55km from Manado, Indonesia (P1800, 36
hours, twice weekly). The office is inside
the port compound at Makar, near General Santos. This is a cargo boat that takes
passengers; officially, foreigners should be
able to make this trip, but you may want
to check with the tourism office in General
Santos first. You will need to get your visa
requirements in order with the Indonesian
consulate in Davao before you leave. For
There is also a boat that sails between
Bitung and Davaos Sasa Pier (via General
Santos) every Friday, but trip details change
often so its best to check with Davaos city
tourism office. For more details see p391.
Malaysia
Aleson Lines (%062-991 2687; PPA Terminal, Port Area,
Zamboanga) boats leave Zamboanga in Mindanao for Sandakan in Malaysian Borneo
twice weekly (cabin P3600, 16 hours). For
details see p400.
SRN Fastcraft (%992 3765) has two Weesam
Express boats a week between Zamboanga
G E T T I N G A R O U N D A i r 449
and Sandakan (P5400, eight hours). For

TOURS
For information on tours of the Philippines,
see p455.
GETTING AROUND
AIR
The main domestic carriers are Philippine
Airlines (PAL), Cebu Pacific Air and Air
Philippines. Smaller carriers include Asian
Spirit, SEAIR and Island Transvoyager
(only for El Nido in Palawan). For Manila
contact details, see p109.
Size is important when it comes to
Philippine air travel. Smaller airlines fly
smaller planes, and smaller airports have
more basic facilities. Youre more likely to
get on a flight during popular travel times
with a bigger airline; on the other hand, the
smaller planes often land (or at least try to)
when the big planes turn back or stay on
the ground. Generally speaking, PAL flies
the largest and newest planes.
Flight routes tend to be skewed towards
the major airports, so airlines can fly from
busy Airport X to towns A, B and C, but
not necessarily between A, B and C. Routes
in the southern Philippines are particularly
hit-and-miss.
Reasonably reliable flight information, as
well as online booking, is available online
from airline websites and travel sites such as
www.lakbay.net. All domestic carriers have
roughly comparable fares, and on certain
routes you can get promotional (ie seasonal)
discounts of 20% to 30% if you buy your
ticket two or three days in advance (check
with the airline for exact details). Schedules
and prices change, and promotions rapidly
come and go. See the Domestic Airfares map
(above) for airfares, but please note that these
prices were only approximate at the time of
printing and are subject to change.
DOMESTIC DEPARTURE TAX
Domestic departure tax varies from airport
to airstrip. From Manila and Cebu it is P100.
Domestic departure tax at most small airports is lower, generally around P50.
TRANSPORT
TRANSPORT
Travel (%1300 733 035 Australia-wide; www.statravel

.com.au), which has offices in all major cities,
and Flight Centre (%133 133 Australia-wide; www
.flightcentre.com.au), which has dozens of offices
throughout Australia.
Qantas and PAL offer the only direct
flights from Australia to the Philippines
(Sydney to Manila); otherwise, its necessary
to fly via cities such as Bangkok, Singapore,
Kuala Lumpur or Hong Kong.
450 G E T T I N G A R O U N D A i r
Domestic Airfares
DOMESTIC AIRFARES
0
0
400 km
250 miles
most heavily booked periods. Wherever

you go, be sure to reconfirm your flight,
though this isnt always a guarantee against
being bumped.
BICYCLE
Tuguegarao
P2388
P2500
MANILA
P1
93
00
P25
82
P44
01
As guesthouses and resorts realise the virtues

of hiring out bicycles, self-powered transport is getting easier to come by on some
islands. Depending on where you are, mountain bikes go for around P300 per day.
04
Tacloban
Bacolod
CEBU
CITY
P2
P14
Surigao
10
Tandag
88
P25
83
P3
P23
50
Purchase
35
80
P23
P3918
Dipolog
Cagayan
de Oro
40
P26
Its best to book in advance, but dont

plan too tight a schedule flight delays are
a fact of life in the Philippines. During the
wet season, schedules can be erratic due to
the weather. If there is a typhoon warning,
most flights will be grounded; few ferries
will venture out of harbours either, so you
may just have to wait it out. You can bank
P3
P3
88
P25
68
Roxas
Taytay
Puerto Princesa
Hire
P38
Busuanga
Island
28
90
Naga
P30
P33
TRANSPORT
Laoag
Zamboanga
DAVAO
General
Santos
on the first few flights following a typhoon

being massively overbooked. Theres also
the risk of smaller airlines cancelling flights
at the last minute if not enough passengers
show up at the airport or airfield.
Christmas, New Year, Holy Week (the
week culminating in Easter) and All Saints
Day/All Souls Day (1/2 November) are the
Purchasing a bicycle locally is no better or

worse than anywhere else in the world. In
the big cities you will most likely find a
bicycle shop or two in major shopping centres, though, unlike in most other Southeast
Asian countries, there are very few commuters on bicycles, hence prices tend to be
a bit higher.
BOAT
Spend any length of time in the Philippines
and youre bound to find yourself on a boat.
Boats range from the high-class multideck
WG&A ferries and highly efficient luxury
passenger catamarans (known as fastcraft
or fast ferries) to the smallest of outriggers
(called bangka or pumpboats), which shuttle between myriad beaches and piers.
Ferry & Fastcraft

Ferries of all descriptions and levels of seaworthiness ply the waters between islands.
They are often overcrowded; cramming
every inch of leaky tubs with passengers
doesnt make them watertight, but it does

increase the probability of the ship sinking,
especially in heavy seas. You often have options as to which boat to travel on, so ask
around about reliable companies and ferries and plan accordingly.
Fastcraft are becoming an increasingly
common sight between islands. These are
smaller, lighter and newer than the ferries,
and are well fitted, reliable and safe. They
arent called fastcraft for nothing, as they
can cut long rides by half. One modern convenience used to excess on these spiffy ships
is air-conditioning, which is permanently
set to arctic take a sweater or fleece.
Though service on the main routes is
pretty reliable, youll need to be prepared for
changes in the itinerary. Adverse weather
conditions (especially during the typhoon
season) or renovation of a ferry can totally
alter the sailing times and boats used for various trips. As with planes, boats fill to overflowing during Christmas, New Year, Holy
Week and All Saints Day/All Souls Day, as
well as to the locations of major festivals.
On board, there are several levels of comfort and cost. Bunks on or below deck on
3rd class should be fine, as long as the ship
isnt overcrowded.
Ferry prices vary widely but, as a guide,
the fare for the 22-hour voyage between
Manila and Cebu City costs P1768 to
P6414 on WG&A/Superferry, depending
on which class you choose to travel. Before purchasing your ticket, it pays to ask
about discounts. Ferries, like airlines, offer
promotional discounts. Also inquire about
student discounts: some shipping lines
knock 15% to 30% off if you can show a
valid student ID.
The following are the main ferry companies in the Philippines:
Negros Navigation (%02-245 5588 in Manila; www
.negrosnavigation.ph)
Sulpicio Lines (%02-245 0616 in Manila; www

.sulpiciolines.com)
WG&A/Superferry (%02-528 7000 in Manila; www

.superferry.com.ph)
Small Craft
Ferries may carry more weight, but bangka
(also known as pumpboats) are the backbone of inter-island travel. These are small
wooden boats with two wooden or bamboo
outriggers. In some areas, in addition to
TRANSPORT
Cycling around the Philippines is a seldomexplored option, but away from the treacherous traffic and exhaust fumes it can be
a great way to get around the quieter, less
visited islands such as the Batanes or Guimaras. Locals get around on bikes in many
of these places, and the promise of peaceful
rides along coastal and mountain roads to
out-of-the-way villages makes cycling well
worth the effort.
You can take bicycles on domestic flights
(you may have to partially disassemble the
bicycle), but take heed of the baggage allowance on small planes. If theres room,
you can stow your bike on a bus or jeepney,
usually for a small charge.
G E T T I N G A R O U N D B i c y c l e 451
single rides, bangka can be hired for day

trips at a reasonable cost. The cost of the
boat trip can be shared between the number
of passengers aboard.
Bangka are powered by recycled automotive engines, so they can be noisy we
recommend bringing earplugs if youre
sensitive to noise and plan a lot of bangka
travel. They are often on regular schedules,
but wont hit the surf if seas are rough;
bangka pilots arent always crazy about
night trips either.
Be wary of crossing fast-flowing rivers, especially when theyre swollen by floods. Juryrigged and overloaded ferries often just
several bangka tied beneath a wooden platform are particularly prone to capsizing.
BUS
An enormous number of bus services cover
the Philippines and generally do it quite
cheaply and reliably. Island-hopping on a
bus is even an option; in fact, you can travel
all the way from the northernmost tip of
Luzon to the southernmost corner of Mindanao without getting your feet wet.
Departures are usually quite frequent,
but take care if theres only one bus a day
drivers sometimes decide to leave earlier
than scheduled if the bus is full! Many Filipinos like to travel early in the morning or
after nightfall, when its cool, so there are
often more buses at this time.
As in most countries, it pays to mind your
baggage while buses load and unload.
Costs
You can roughly calculate the fare and the
time a bus journey will take based on distance. Regular buses generally cover a bit
under 2km per peso and the average speed is
about 50km per hour. Voil! A 100km journey costs P50 or so and takes two hours.
On the other hand, youd need a slide
rule and a crystal ball to factor in chickens
crossing the road, the number of flat tyres,
heart-stopping spurts of speed and so on,
all of which seem to have been magically
factored into the actual price you pay. Its a
bit easier to take a look at the prices written
on chalkboards wherever the buses depart.
Air-con buses are around 15% to 20%
more expensive than ordinary buses, and
trips on gravel roads are normally pricier
than travel on sealed roads.
Reservations
As noted earlier, drivers get an itchy pedal
foot when the bus is full, and clutching a
reservation to your chest as the bus zooms
away without you is cold comfort. That said,
reservations are useful, especially on popular routes and early-morning buses where
competition for a seat can be pretty stiff.
In bigger towns, reservations can be
made with the bus company by phone or in
person; in smaller centres, often a particular
shop takes reservations for buses belonging
to one or more companies. On some routes
you can also ring to request that a bus stop
for you at a designated time and place.
CAR & MOTORCYCLE

If time is short, driving yourself is a quicker
option than relying on jeepneys and other
public transport, but it does come with caveats. Philippine driving is possibly at its most
manic in and around Manila, and in Luzons
central mountains. Its less life-threatening
elsewhere, though, and verges on pleasant in
and around cities such as Cebu.
Whatever you do, dont try to emulate
the local style driving in the Philippines
is one area of cultural difference where the
when in Rome principle doesnt apply.
Driving Licence
Your home countrys driving licence is legally valid for 90 days in the Philippines.
Technically, you are supposed to have an
International Driving Permit for any period
longer than this, and some car-rental companies may require you to have this permit
when hiring vehicles from them.
Hire
CAR
Rentals are generally offered on a daily or

weekly basis, with or without the added expense of a driver, and terms and conditions
can vary widely from one car-hire company
to another.
To give you an idea how the system works
locally, heres how Budget does it: you must
be between 25 and 60 years of age and hold
an International Driving Permit. You will
also be required to present a valid passport
and a valid credit card such as American
Express or Visa. You dont have to pay in
advance (a requirement with other car-hire
companies), but a photocopy of your pass-
port and credit card will be made for the

companys records. Payment is made when
you return the vehicle, at which point you
may elect to pay in cash (your credit-card
imprint will then be destroyed). Both pesos
and US dollars are accepted.
The big international car-hire companies
all have offices in Manila and at NAIA; see
p114 for details.
In the Visayas, local car-hire companies
in Cebu and Iloilo generally charge around
P1500 per 12 hours, with special deals for
longer periods.
MOTORCYCLE
You can rent motorcycles and motor scooters in many tourist spots; they shouldnt
be too hard to find. For example, resorthappy Alona Beach on Panglao Island is
lined with motorcycles for hire from P600
per day. In towns, popular guesthouses and
cafs sometimes have motorcycle-rental
shops nearby. In more remote areas, just
ask around even if theres no rental shop,
you might find somebody willing to rent
out their motorcycle for a fee.
As a rule, 125cc Honda or Suzuki cycles
cost P500 to P700 per day; smaller cycles
are around P350. Finding a helmet can be
difficult.
Insurance
Philippine law requires that you have thirdparty auto insurance with a Philippines
auto-insurance company when you drive
in the Philippines. If you rent a car, this can
be arranged with the rental agency. You are
required to carry a minimum of P750,000 of
insurance. Auto insurance is available from
local insurance agencies.
Road Rules
Driving is on the right-hand side of the
road (or at least its supposed to be). If you
do decide to hire a car or motorcycle, defensive driving is definitely the order of the
day. Jeepneys and buses will stop at random
to drop off and pick up passengers, and
you should give way to buses in almost all
situations.
In general, the outside lane is the safest
place to be, though you can expect people
to overtake on both sides if theres a gap in
the traffic. On the expressways out of Manila, the hard shoulder is often used as an
G E T T I N G A R O U N D H i t c h i n g 453
overtaking lane, so drivers should take extra

care when exiting the highway.
Night driving holds its own particular
hazards, quite apart from the issue of potential robberies in political trouble-spots
(eg certain parts of Mindanao). Its best to
avoid driving at night if you can, but if you
find yourself on the road after dark it pays
to know that tricycles, motorcycles and
even large trucks are often without lights. In
small towns you should look out for school
zones, which are frequently reduced to one
lane, and for people who have put out tables
and chairs on the street for an impromptu
drinking and/or eating session.
Also beware of pedestrians suddenly
emerging from the dark and darting across
the road, or old cans fashioned into crude
kerosene lamps, which are sometimes used
to mark broken-down vehicles, accidents
and roadworks.
With the exception of the expressways
out of Manila, most roads in the Philippines
are single lane, which can lead to some wild
overtaking by local drivers.
HITCHING
Hitching is never entirely safe in any country in the world, and we dont recommend
it. Travellers who decide to hitch should
understand that they are taking a small
but potentially serious risk. People who do
choose to hitch will be safer if they travel in
pairs and let someone know where they are
planning to go. And, needless to say, hitching in the guerrilla territory of Mindanao is
positively suicidal.
The cost of transport in the Philippines is generally so low that hitchhiking isnt worth the trouble; youre seldom
left stranded without a cheap and willing
jeepney in sight. A hitchhiker is such an
unusual sight in the Philippines that most
regular drivers will probably ignore you if
you stand on the roadside with your thumb
out; the only ones who might stop are truck
or jeepney drivers, who would expect a few
pesos if they gave you a lift.
LOCAL TRANSPORT
Jeepney
A jeepney is what youd get if you crossed a

jeep with a bus. Jeepneys are the main mode
of public transportation in most towns, and
are used for both local and long-distance
TRANSPORT
TRANSPORT
452 G E T T I N G A R O U N D B u s
transport in the Philippines. They can be

flagged down anywhere, but usually prefer
to stop where there is a crowd of potential
customers. The Filipino phrase bayad ko
(buy-yad-ko) translates as here is my fare
and will get the drivers attention.
Jeepneys are plentiful on most routes, but
you may have to wait a while to get your
ride: jeepney drivers are not inclined to depart until theyve got (at least) a full load.
During the rush hours or in the aftermath
of a sudden downpour, be prepared to be
packed in like sardines, with three or four
hardy souls clinging to the back or the roof
of the vehicle for dear life.
Jeepneys follow a set route (though this
can suddenly change due to traffic conditions) and stop on demand, but it can be
hard to see where you are from inside the
vehicle the best seats are up the front next
to the driver. In big cities like Manila, jeepneys are festooned with signboards indicating where the vehicle goes; in other places,
theres one sign in the front. Occasionally
jeepneys are unmarked and youll have to
ask the driver where its going.
Paying for a jeepney ride is straightforward theres a price (ask other passengers
if youre unsure) and you pay it, usually
under the watchful eye of fellow travellers,
who will help with translations if need be.
The average price for a short trip in Manila is P7 and you can pay anywhere along
the way. The driver usually has change, at
least for smaller bills. If you are too far from
the driver, simply hand your money to a
passenger near the driver not only will
they pass on your money to the driver but
will hand you back your change as well.
When you want to get off, you can rap
on the roof, hiss (youll be joined by a chorus of Psst! from the other passengers) or
use the correct term, pra (pa-ra), which is
Filipino for stop.
If you dont mind the expense, you can
hire a jeepney (plus the jeepney driver,
of course) and have it all to yourself for
around P1500 to P2000 a day (sometimes
less outside Manila).
When taking long-distance jeepney rides,
these are some things to keep in mind:
Find out what the fare should be before
you hop in. You can ask other passengers
or passersby, or, if that fails, try a nearby
shop.
Try not to be the first person to get into

an empty jeepney. If the driver suddenly
takes off, you may have just hired a vehicle on a pricey special ride (which is
probably the case if the driver doesnt
stop for anyone else). If this happens, ask
the driver to stop, and explain that youre
only looking for a regular ride.
Take care if several men suddenly get
in and try to sit near you. Chances are
youre being set up to be pickpocketed
get off and find another vehicle.
On long trips its worth trying to get a
seat next to the driver theres more leg
room in the front and the time passes
more quickly if you can see where youre
going.
Light Rail
Some parts of Manila are served by an elevated railway system; for details see p115.
Taxi
Manila is reputed to have Southeast Asias
cheapest taxi fares. However, some Manila
taxi drivers may refuse to use their meters
so this is something of a moot point. Officially, flagfall is P30, after which the rate is
P2.50 for every 300m or every two minutes
of waiting time.
Thousands of taxis ply the streets of Manila, but when youre desperately in need
of their services theres suddenly not a single one available. The few that will stop
are wont to interview you regarding your
destination and will drive off if theyre not
satisfied with your answers. Even locals are
subjected to this irritating practice, a fact
that might provide some paranoid travellers with a little comfort.
Thanks to a government drive to punish rude and dishonest drivers, many taxis
now use meters. Some will still try to strike
up a deal with you (foreigners are often
subjected to this), but most will comply if
you insist on the use of the meter (this may,
of course, put you on the most roundabout
course to your destination). On the other
hand, you might want to privately hire a
taxi, in which case the normal practice is to
hire it by the hour (P250) or the day (P1500
to P2000). As with everything else in the
Philippines, the arrangement will depend
on what (and how well) you negotiate with
the driver.

G E T T I N G A R O U N D T o u r s 455
Though its become less common recently, there have been cases of taxi passengers being robbed at gun or knife point,
sometimes with the driver in cahoots with
the culprits or the driver himself holding up
the passengers. Nowadays, the drivers seem
to be the preferred prey of the criminals,
perhaps because theyre more likely to be
carrying cash than the passengers!
The chances of getting robbed in a taxi are
pretty slim during daylight hours, although
its wise to stay alert when travelling in deserted areas. Keep your pack or bag beside
you or on your lap at all times and get out
straight away (in a secure populated area, of
course, not in the middle of nowhere or in a
slum area) if you suspect youre being taken
for a ride in more ways than one.
Tricycle
The tricycle is basically the Philippine rickshaw: a little, roofed sidecar bolted to a motorbike or, less often, a bicycle. Tricycles are
found in their various forms nearly everywhere and are useful essential even for
short trips. In many areas, they can also be
rented by the hour for around P100.
The flat fare around town is usually
P5 per passenger; for longer trips around
town, you will be charged at least double
this figure. Note that this is the rate that
locals pay. In some towns you can get away
with paying the local rate; in many tourist areas, however, your chances of getting
such a rate range from slim to nonexistent.
In these areas, drivers of motorised tricycles will routinely quote P150 especially
if night is fast approaching and/or the trip
involves unsealed roads. Locals would pay a
fraction of this price, so feel free to haggle.
Tricycles are often garishly done up in
the mode of a jeepney, and youll likely hear
one before you see one from the noise of the
smoke-belching two-stroke engine.
Tricycles in Manila (where theyre also
called pedicabs or sidecars) are normally
confined to certain routes, usually around
commercial centres or residential villages
or subdivisions, and will seldom venture
away from their regular beat.
Van
Vans (minibuses) have become popular in
many parts of the Philippines as rivals to
jeepneys and regular buses. Operated pri-
vately, these vehicles usually hang around

bus depots or busy shopping centres and take
passengers (in air-conditioned comfort) to set
destinations. The cost of a ride in a van is two
or three times more than for a jeepney (the
basic fare in Manila is P10 per passenger), but
the extra comfort is certainly worth the additional cost. Unlike jeepneys and buses, which
are often decrepit, without air-conditioning
and therefore exposed to exhaust fumes and
noise, these vans are generally newer vehicles
and are always air-conditioned, sometimes to
freezing point. The drawback is that drivers
hate to head off with half-empty vehicles, so
you may have to wait a while or pay extra to
leave straight away. Conversely, this mode of
public transport has become so popular that
it may be hard to get a seat (a van accommodates nine passengers plus driver and no
hangers-on are allowed).
Many vans, particularly those operating
in Manila, are locally assembled Toyota
models, referred to as FX. The fare is usually around P25 for long rides and P15 for
shorter hops. They can also be hired like
taxis, sometimes at prearranged flat rates,
sometimes for rates that must be agreed
upon by negotiating with the driver.
TOURS
There are a variety of tours of the Philippines available. The following is just a
sample of whats available.
EcoFirst Adventures (www.ecofirstadventures.com)
This USA-based company offers a variety of adventuresports trips in Palawan.
Philippine-Travel.com (www.philippine-travel.co.uk)
This UK-based operator offers a variety of tours including
diving and live-aboards.
Philippines Private Tours (www.philippinesprivate
tours.com) Operated by Lonely Planet author Chris
Rowthorn, this company specialises in private tours of
Palawan and Manila. It also offers airport pickups in Manila
and online consulting about Philippines travel.
For reliable local agencies offering a variety

of tours, see p75.
TRAIN
The route south from Manila to the Bicol
region in southeast Luzon is the only railway line in the country. Although its old
and none too speedy, its a viable option for
travel down to Naga and Legaspi and points
along the way (see p189 for details).
TRANSPORT
TRANSPORT
454 G E T T I N G A R O U N D L o c a l T r a n s p o r t

456
Health
Dr Trish Batchelor
CONTENTS
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INSURANCE
BEFORE YOU GO
Even if you are fit and healthy, dont travel

without health insurance accidents do
happen. Declare any existing medical conditions you have the insurance company
will check if your problem is pre-existing
and will not cover you if it is undeclared.
You may require extra cover for adventure
activities such as rock climbing. If your
health insurance doesnt cover you for
medical expenses abroad, consider getting
extra insurance. If youre uninsured, emergency evacuation is expensive bills of over
US$100,000 are not uncommon.
Find out in advance if your insurance
plan will make payments directly to providers or reimburse you later for overseas
health expenditures. (In many countries
doctors expect payment to be made in
cash.) Some policies offer lower and higher
medical-expense options; the higher ones
are chiefly for countries that have extremely
high medical costs, such as the USA. You
may prefer a policy that pays doctors or
hospitals directly rather than you having
to pay on the spot and claim later. If you
have to claim later, make sure you keep all
documentation. Some policies ask you to
call back (reverse charges) to a centre in
your home country where an immediate
assessment of your problem is made.
Pack medications in their original, clearly

labelled containers. A signed and dated letter
from your physician describing your medical conditions and medications, including
Specialised travel-medicine clinics are your

best source of information; they stock all
available vaccines and will be able to give
Health issues and the quality of medical

facilities vary enormously depending on
where and how you travel in the Philippines. Many of the major cities are now very
well developed, while travel to rural areas
can expose you to a variety of health risks
and inadequate medical care.
Travellers tend to worry about contracting
infectious diseases when in the tropics, but
infections are a rare cause of serious illness
or death in travellers. Pre-existing medical
conditions such as heart disease, and accidental injury (especially traffic accidents),
account for most life-threatening problems.
Becoming ill in some way, however, is relatively common. Fortunately most common
illnesses can either be prevented with some
commonsense behaviour or be treated easily
with a well-stocked travellers medical kit.
The following advice is a general guide
only and does not replace the advice of a
doctor trained in travel medicine.
VACCINATIONS
specific recommendations for you and your

trip. The doctors will take into account factors such as past vaccination history, the
length of your trip, activities you may be
undertaking and underlying medical conditions, such as pregnancy.
Most vaccines dont produce immunity
until at least two weeks after theyre given, so
visit a doctor four to eight weeks before departure. Ask your doctor for an International
Certificate of Vaccination (otherwise known
as the yellow booklet), which will list all the
vaccinations youve received.
Meningitis Single injection. There are two types of

vaccination: the quadrivalent vaccine gives two to three
years protection; meningitis group C vaccine gives around
10 years protection. Recommended for long-term travellers
aged under 25.
Rabies Three injections in all. A booster after one year will
then provide 10 years protection. Side effects are rare
occasionally a headache and sore arm.
Tuberculosis A complex issue. Adult long-term travellers
are usually recommended to have a TB skin test before and
after travel, rather than vaccination. Only one vaccine is
given in a lifetime.
Recommended Vaccinations
The only vaccine required by international

regulations is yellow fever. Proof of vaccination will only be required if you have visited
a country in the yellow-fever zone within
the six days prior to entering Southeast Asia.
If you are travelling to Southeast Asia from
Africa or South America you should check
to see if you require proof of vaccination.
The World Health Organization (WHO)

recommends the following vaccinations for
travellers to Southeast Asia:
Adult diphtheria and tetanus Single booster recommended if none in the previous 10 years. Side effects
include a sore arm and fever.
Hepatitis A Provides almost 100% protection for up to a
year; a booster after 12 months provides at least another
20 years protection. Mild side effects such as headache
and a sore arm occur in 5% to 10% of people.
Hepatitis B Now considered routine for most travellers.
Given as three shots over six months. A rapid schedule is
also available, as is a combined vaccination with Hepatitis A.
Side effects are mild and uncommon, usually headache and
a sore arm. Lifetime protection occurs in 95% of people.
Measles, mumps and rubella Two doses of MMR
required unless you have had the diseases. Occasionally a
rash and flu-like illness can develop a week after receiving
the vaccine. Many young adults require a booster.
Polio In 2002, no countries in Southeast Asia reported
cases of polio. Only one booster is required as an adult for
lifetime protection. Inactivated polio vaccine is safe during
pregnancy.
Typhoid Recommended unless your trip is less than a
week and only to developed cities. The vaccine offers
around 70% protection, lasts for two to three years and
comes as a single shot. Tablets are also available, however
the injection is usually recommended as it has fewer side
effects. A sore arm and fever may occur.
Varicella If you havent had chickenpox, discuss this
vaccination with your doctor.
These immunisations are recommended

for long-term travellers (more than one
month) or those at special risk:
Japanese B Encephalitis Three injections in all. Booster
recommended after two years. A sore arm and headache
are the most common side effects. Rarely, an allergic reaction comprising hives and swelling can occur up to 10 days
after any of the three doses.
Required Vaccinations
MEDICAL CHECKLIST
Recommended items for a personal medical kit:
antifungal cream, eg Clotrimazole
antibacterial cream, eg Muciprocin
antibiotics for skin infections, eg Amoxicillin/Clavulanate or Cephalexin
antibiotics for diarrhoea eg Norfloxacin
or Ciprofloxacin; Azithromycin for bacterial diarrhoea; Tinidazole for giardiasis
or amoebic dysentery
antihistamine for allergies, eg Cetrizine
for daytime and Promethazine for night
anti-inflammatories, eg Ibuprofen
antiseptic, eg Betadine
antispasmodic for stomach cramps, eg
Buscopa
contraceptives
decongestant, eg Pseudoephedrine
DEET-based insect repellent
diarrhoea consider an oral rehydration
solution, eg Gastrolyte, diarrhoea stopper, eg Loperamide, and anti-nausea
medication, eg Prochlorperazine
first-aid items such as scissors, safety
pins, Elastoplasts, bandages, gauze, thermometer (electronic, not mercury), sterile needles and syringes and tweezers
indigestion medication, eg Quick Eze or
Mylanta
iodine tablets (unless you are pregnant or
have a thyroid problem) to purify water
H E A LT H
H E A LT H
Before You Go
Insurance
Vaccinations
Medical Checklist
Internet Resources
Further Reading
In Transit
Deep Vein Thrombosis (DVT)
Jet Lag & Motion Sickness
In the Philippines
Availability of Healthcare
Infectious Illnesses
Travellers Diarrhoea
Environmental Hazards
Womens Health
generic names, is also a good idea. If carrying

syringes or needles, be sure to have a physicians letter stating their medical necessity. If
you have a heart condition bring a copy of
your ECG taken just prior to travelling.
If you happen to take any regular medication bring double your needs in case of loss
or theft. In most Southeast Asian countries,
excluding Singapore, you can buy many
medications over the counter without a
doctors prescription, but it can be difficult
to find some of the newer drugs, particularly
the latest antidepressant drugs, contraceptive pills and blood-pressure medications.
B E F O R E Y O U G O M e d i c a l C h e c k l i s t 457
458 I N T R A N S I T D e e p Ve i n T h r o m b o s i s ( D V T )
lungs, where they may cause life-threatening

complications.
The chief symptom of DVT is swelling or
pain of the foot, ankle or calf, usually but
not always on just one side. If a blood clot
travels to the lungs it may cause chest pain
and difficulty in breathing. Travellers with
any of these symptoms should immediately
seek medical attention.
To prevent the development of DVT
on long flights you should walk about the
cabin, perform isometric compressions of
the leg muscles (ie contract the leg muscles
while sitting), drink plenty of fluids and
avoid alcohol.
INTERNET RESOURCES
JET LAG & MOTION SICKNESS
There is a wealth of travel health advice

on the Internet. For further information,
Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com) is a good
place to start. The World Health Organization (WHO; www.who.int/ith) publishes a superb
book called International Travel & Health,
which is revised annually and is available
free online. Another website of general
interest is MD Travel Health (www.mdtravelhealth
.com), which provides complete travel health
recommendations for every country and is
updated daily. The Centers for Disease Control
and Prevention (CDC; www.cdc.gov) website also
has good general information.
Jet lag is common when crossing more than

five time zones; it results in insomnia, fatigue, malaise or nausea. To avoid jet lag
try drinking plenty of fluids (nonalcoholic)
and eating light meals. Upon arrival, seek
exposure to natural sunlight and readjust
your schedule (for meals, sleep etc) as soon
as possible.
Antihistamines such as dimenhydrinate
(Dramamine) and meclizine (Antivert,
Bonine) are usually the first choice for
treating motion sickness. Their main side
effect is drowsiness. A herbal alternative is
ginger, which works like a charm for some
people.
FURTHER READING
Lonely Planets Healthy Travel Asia &
India is a handy pocket-size book that is
packed with useful information including
pre-trip planning, emergency first aid, immunisation and disease information and
what to do if you get sick on the road. Other
recommended references include Travellers
Health by Dr Richard Dawood and Travelling Well by Dr Deborah Mills check out
the website www.travellingwell.com.au.
IN TRANSIT
DEEP VEIN THROMBOSIS (DVT )
Deep vein thrombosis (DVT) occurs when
blood clots form in the legs during plane
flights, chiefly because of prolonged immobility. The longer the flight, the greater
the risk. Though most blood clots are reabsorbed uneventfully, some may break off
and travel through the blood vessels to the
IN THE PHILIPPINES
AVAILABILITY OF HEALTHCARE
Most capital cities in Southeast Asia now
have clinics catering specifically to travellers and expats. These clinics are usually
more expensive than local medical facilities, but are worth utilising, as they will
offer a superior standard of care. Additionally they understand the local system, and
are aware of the safest local hospitals and
best specialists. They can also liaise with
insurance companies should you require
evacuation. Good medical care is available
in most major cities in the Philippines.
Recommended clinics are listed under Information in the city sections of regional
chapters in this book.
It is difficult to find reliable medical care
in rural areas. Your embassy and insurance
company are also good contacts.
Self-treatment may be appropriate if your

problem is minor (eg travellers diarrhoea),
you are carrying the appropriate medication
and you cannot attend a recommended clinic.
If you think you may have a serious disease,
especially malaria, do not waste time travel
to the nearest quality facility to receive attention. It is always better to be assessed by a
doctor than to rely on self-treatment.
Buying medication over the counter is
not recommended, as fake medications
and poorly stored or out-of-date drugs are
common.
INFECTIOUS ILLNESSES
Chikungunya fever
This less common infection poses only a

small risk to travellers in the Philippines,
and so is mentioned only in passing. Transmitted by mosquitoes, this viral infection
occurs in the Visayas. Sudden pain in one
or more joints, fever, headache, nausea and
rash are the main symptoms. It is rarely
fatal, though stiffness in the joints can last
for weeks or months. Seek medical advice if
you think you may have contracted it.
Cutaneous Larva Migrans

This disease is caused by dog hookworm;
the rash starts as a small lump, then slowly
spreads in a linear fashion. It is intensely
itchy, especially at night. It is easily treated
with medications and should not be cut out
or frozen.
Dengue Fever
This mosquito-borne disease is becomingly
increasingly problematic throughout Southeast Asia, especially in the cities. As there is
no vaccine available it can only be prevented
by avoiding mosquito bites. The mosquito
that carries dengue bites day and night, so
use insect avoidance measures at all times.
Symptoms include high fever, severe headache and body ache (dengue was previously
known as breakbone fever). Some people
develop a rash and experience diarrhoea.
There is no specific treatment, just rest and
paracetamol do not take aspirin as it increases the likelihood of haemorrhaging. See
a doctor to be diagnosed and monitored.
I N T H E P H I L I P P I N E S I n fe c t i o u s I l l n e s s e s 459
very rare in travellers. Mosquito-avoidance

measures are the best way to prevent this
disease.
Hepatitis A
A problem found throughout the region,
this food- and water-borne virus infects
the liver, causing jaundice (yellow skin and
eyes), nausea and lethargy. There is no specific treatment for hepatitis A; you just need
to allow time for the liver to heal. All travellers to Southeast Asia should be vaccinated
against hepatitis A.
Hepatitis B
The only sexually transmitted disease that
can be prevented by vaccination, hepatitis
B is spread by body fluids, including sexual
contact. In some parts of Southeast Asia
up to 20% of the population are carriers of
hepatitis B, and usually are unaware of this.
The long-term consequences can include
liver cancer and cirrhosis.
Hepatitis E
Hepatitis E is transmitted through contaminated food and water and has similar symptoms to hepatitis A, but is far less common.
It is a severe problem in pregnant women
and can result in the death of both mother
and baby. There is currently no vaccine, and
prevention is by following safe eating and
drinking guidelines.
HIV
HIV is not the pandemic in the Philippines
that it is in other parts of Asia, with an infection rate of less than 0.1% of the Filipino
population. Heterosexual sex is the main
method of transmission.
Influenza
Influenza (flu) is present year-round in
the tropics; symptoms include high fever,
muscle aches, runny nose, cough and sore
throat. It can be very severe in people over
the age of 65 or in those with underlying
medical conditions such as heart disease
or diabetes; vaccination is recommended
for these individuals. There is no specific
treatment, just rest and paracetamol.
Filariasis
Japanese B Encephalitis
This is a mosquito-borne disease that is

very common in the local population, yet
While a rare disease in travellers, at least

50,000 locals are infected each year in
H E A LT H
H E A LT H
laxative, eg Coloxyl
migraine medication (your personal
brand), if a migraine sufferer
paracetamol for pain
Permethrin (to impregnate clothing and
mosquito nets) for repelling insects
steroid cream for allergic/itchy rashes, eg
1% to 2% hydrocortisone
sunscreen and hat
throat lozenges
thrush (vaginal yeast infection) treatment, eg Clotrimazole pessaries or Diflucan tablet
Ural or equivalent if youre prone to
urine infections
460 I N T H E P H I L I P P I N E S I n fe c t i o u s I l l n e s s e s
Southeast Asia. This viral disease is transmitted by mosquitoes. Most cases occur
in rural areas and vaccination is recommended for travellers spending more than
one month outside of cities. There is no
treatment, and a third of infected people
will die while another third will suffer permanent brain damage.
For such a serious and potentially deadly
disease, there is an enormous amount of
misinformation concerning malaria. You
must get expert advice as to whether your
trip actually puts you at risk. Many parts of
Southeast Asia, particularly city and resort
areas, have minimal to no risk of malaria,
and the risk of side effects from the tablets may outweigh the risk of getting the
disease. For most rural areas, however, the
risk of contracting the disease far outweighs
the risk of any tablet side effects. Remember
that malaria can be fatal. Before you travel,
seek medical advice on the right medication
and dosage for you.
Malaria is caused by a parasite transmitted by the bite of an infected mosquito.
The most important symptom of malaria
is fever, but general symptoms such as
headache, diarrhoea, cough or chills may
also occur. Diagnosis can only be made by
taking a blood sample.
Two strategies should be combined to
prevent malaria mosquito avoidance and
antimalarial medications. Most people who
catch malaria are taking inadequate or no
antimalarial medication.
Travellers are advised to prevent mosquito bites by taking these steps:
Use a DEET-containing insect repellent
on exposed skin. Wash this off at night,
as long as you are sleeping under a mosquito net. Natural repellents such as
Citronella can be effective, but must be
applied more frequently than products
containing DEET.
Sleep under a mosquito net impregnated
with Permethrin.
Choose accommodation with screens and
fans (if not air-conditioned).
Impregnate clothing with Permethrin in
high-risk areas.
Wear long sleeves and trousers in light
colours.
Use mosquito coils.
Spray your room with insect repellent

before going out for your evening meal.
Measles
Measles remains a problem in some parts
of Southeast Asia. This highly contagious
bacterial infection is spread via coughing
and sneezing. Most people born before 1966
are immune as they had the disease in childhood. Measles starts with a high fever and
rash and can be complicated by pneumonia and brain disease. There is no specific
treatment.
Rabies
This uniformly fatal disease is spread by
the bite or lick of an infected animal most
commonly a dog or monkey. You should
seek medical advice immediately after any
animal bite and commence post-exposure
treatment. Having pre-travel vaccination
means the post-bite treatment is greatly
simplified. If an animal bites you, gently
wash the wound with soap and water, and
apply iodine based antiseptic. If you are not
pre-vaccinated you will need to receive rabies immunoglobulin as soon as possible.
Schistosomiasis
Schistosomiasis is a tiny parasite that enters your skin after youve been swimming
in contaminated water travellers usually only get a light infection and hence
have no symptoms. If you are concerned,
you can be tested three months after exposure. On rare occasions, travellers may
develop Katayama fever. This occurs some
weeks after exposure, as the parasite passes
through the lungs and causes an allergic
reaction symptoms are coughing and
fever. Schistosomiasis is easily treated with
medications.
STDs
Sexually transmitted diseases include warts,
herpes, syphilis, gonorrhoea and chlamydia. People carrying these diseases often
have no signs of infection. Condoms will
prevent gonorrhoea and chlamydia but not
warts or herpes. If after a sexual encounter
you develop any rash, lumps, discharge or
pain when passing urine seek immediate
medical attention. If you have been sexually active during your travels have an STD
check on your return home.
I N T H E P H I L I P P I N E S T r a v e l l e r s D i a r r h o e a 461
Tuberculosis
Tuberculosis (TB) is rare in short-term
travellers. Medical and aid workers, and
long-term travellers who have significant
contact with the local population, should
take precautions. Vaccination is usually
only given to children under the age of
five, but adults at risk are recommended
pre- and post-travel TB testing. The main
symptoms are fever, cough, weight loss,
night sweats and tiredness.
Typhoid
This serious bacterial infection is spread via
food and water. It gives a high and slowly
progressive fever and headache, and may
be accompanied by a dry cough and stomach pain. It is diagnosed by blood tests and
treated with antibiotics. Vaccination is recommended for all travellers spending more
than a week in Southeast Asia, or travelling
outside of the major cities. Be aware that vaccination is not 100% effective, so you must
still be careful with what you eat and drink.
Typhus
Murine typhus is spread by the bite of a
flea whereas scrub typhus is spread via a
mite. These diseases are rare in travellers.
Symptoms include fever, muscle pains and
a rash. You can avoid these diseases by following general insect-avoidance measures.
Doxycycline will also prevent them.
TRAVELLERS DIARRHOEA
Travellers diarrhoea is by far the most
common problem affecting travellers between 30% and 50% of people will suffer
from it within two weeks of starting their
trip. In over 80% of cases, travellers diarrhoea is caused by a bacteria (there are
numerous potential culprits), and therefore responds promptly to treatment with
antibiotics. Treatment with antibiotics will
depend on your situation how sick you
are, how quickly you need to get better,
where you are etc.
Travellers diarrhoea is defined as the
passage of more than three watery bowel
actions within 24 hours, plus at least one
other symptom such as fever, cramps, nausea, vomiting or feeling generally unwell.
Treatment consists of staying well hydrated; rehydration solutions like Gastrolyte are the best for this. Antibiotics such
as Norfloxacin, Ciprofloxacin or Azithromycin will kill the bacteria quickly.

Loperamide is just a stopper and doesnt
get to the cause of the problem. It can be
helpful, for example if you have to go on
a long bus ride. Dont take Loperamide if
you have a fever, or blood in your stools.
Seek medical attention quickly if you do not
respond to an appropriate antibiotic.
Amoebic Dysentery
Amoebic dysentery is very rare in travellers
but is often misdiagnosed by poor-quality
labs in Southeast Asia. Symptoms are similar to bacterial diarrhoea, ie fever, bloody
diarrhoea and generally feeling unwell. You
should always seek reliable medical care if
you have blood in your diarrhoea. Treatment involves two drugs; Tinidazole or
Metroniadzole to kill the parasite in your
gut and then a second drug to kill the cysts.
If left untreated complications such as liver
or gut abscesses can occur.
Giardiasis
Giardia lamblia is a parasite that is relatively common in travellers. Symptoms include nausea, bloating, excess gas, fatigue
and intermittent diarrhoea. Eggy burps
are often attributed solely to giardiasis, but
work in Nepal has shown that they are not
specific to this infection. The parasite will
eventually go away if left untreated but this
can take months. The treatment of choice
is Tinidazole, with Metronidazole being a
second-line option.
ENVIRONMENTAL HAZARDS
Air Pollution
Air pollution, particularly vehicle pollution,

is an increasing problem in most of Southeast Asias major cities. If you have severe
respiratory problems speak with your doctor before travelling to any heavily polluted
urban centres. This pollution also causes
minor respiratory problems such as sinusitis, dry throat and irritated eyes. If troubled
by the pollution leave the city for a few days
and get some fresh air.
Diving
Divers and surfers should seek specialised
advice before they travel to ensure their
medical kit contains treatment for coral cuts
and tropical ear infections, as well as the
H E A LT H
H E A LT H
Malaria
462 I N T H E P H I L I P P I N E S E n v i r o n m e n t a l H a z a r d s
standard problems. Divers should ensure

their insurance covers them for decompression illness get specialised dive insurance
through an organisation such as Divers Alert
Network (DAN; www.danseap.org). Have a dive
medical before you leave your home country there are certain medical conditions
that are incompatible with diving, and economic considerations may override health
considerations for some dive operators.
Food
Eating in restaurants is the biggest risk factor for contracting travellers diarrhoea.
Ways to avoid it include eating only freshly
cooked food, and avoiding shellfish and
food that has been sitting around in buffets.
Peel all fruit, cook vegetables, and soak salads in iodine water for at least 20 minutes.
Eat in busy restaurants with a high turnover
of customers.
For most people it takes at least two weeks
to adapt to the hot climate. Swelling of the
feet and ankles is common, as are muscle cramps caused by excessive sweating.
Prevent these by avoiding dehydration and
excessive activity in the heat. Take it easy
when you first arrive. Dont eat salt tablets
(they aggravate the gut), although drinking
rehydration solution or eating salty food
helps. Treat cramps by stopping activity,
resting, rehydrating with double-strength
rehydration solution and gently stretching.
Dehydration is the main contributor to
heat exhaustion. Symptoms include feeling weak, headache, irritability, nausea or
vomiting, sweaty skin, a fast, weak pulse
and a normal or slightly elevated body temperature. Treatment involves getting out of
the heat and/or sun, fanning the victim and
applying cool wet cloths to the skin, laying
the victim flat with their legs raised and
rehydrating with water containing a quarter
of a teaspoon of salt per litre. Recovery is
usually rapid, though it is common to feel
weak for some days afterwards.
Heatstroke is a serious medical emergency. Symptoms come on suddenly and
include weakness, nausea, a hot dry body
with a body temperature of over 41C, dizziness, confusion, loss of coordination, fits
and eventually collapse and loss of consciousness. Seek medical help and com-
mence cooling by getting the person out of

the heat, removing their clothes, fanning
them and applying cool wet cloths or ice
to their body, especially to the groin and
armpits.
Prickly heat is a common skin rash in
the tropics, caused by sweat being trapped
under the skin. The result is an itchy rash
of tiny lumps. Treat by moving out of the
heat and into an air-conditioned area for
a few hours and by having cool showers.
Creams and ointments clog the skin so they
should be avoided. Locally bought pricklyheat powder can be helpful.
Tropical fatigue is common in long-term
expats based in the tropics. Its rarely due
to disease and is caused by the climate,
inadequate mental rest, excessive alcohol
intake and the demands of daily work in a
different culture.
Insect Bites & Stings

Bedbugs dont carry disease but their bites
are very itchy. They live in the cracks of furniture and walls and then migrate to the bed
at night to feed on you. You can treat the
itch with an antihistamine. Lice inhabit various parts of your body but most commonly
your head and pubic area. Transmission is
via close contact with an infected person.
They can be difficult to treat and you may
need numerous applications of an antilice
shampoo such as Permethrin. Pubic lice are
usually contracted from sexual contact.
Ticks are contracted after walking in
rural areas. Ticks are commonly found behind the ears, on the belly and in armpits.
If you have had a tick bite and experience
symptoms such as a rash at the site of the
bite or elsewhere, fever or muscle aches you
should see a doctor. Doxycycline prevents
tick-borne diseases.
Leeches are found in humid rainforest
areas. They do not transmit any disease
but their bites are often intensely itchy for
weeks afterwards and can easily become infected. Apply an iodine-based antiseptic to
any leech bite to help prevent infection.
Bee and wasp stings mainly cause problems for people who are allergic to them.
Anyone with a serious bee or wasp allergy
should carry an injection of adrenaline (eg
an Epipen) for emergency treatment. For
others pain is the main problem apply ice
to the sting and take painkillers.
I N T H E P H I L I P P I N E S W o m e n s H e a l t h 463
Most jellyfish in Southeast Asian waters

are not dangerous, just irritating. First aid
for jellyfish stings involves pouring vinegar
onto the affected area to neutralise the poison. Do not rub sand or water onto the
stings. Take painkillers, and anyone who
feels ill in any way after being stung should
seek medical advice. Take local advice if
there are dangerous jellyfish around and
keep out of the water.
involves pressure immobilisation via an

elastic bandage firmly wrapped around the
affected limb, starting at the bite site and
working up towards the chest. The bandage
should not be so tight that the circulation
is cut off, and the fingers or toes should be
kept free so the circulation can be checked.
Immobilise the limb with a splint and carry
the victim to medical attention. Do not use
tourniquets or try to suck the venom out.
Antivenom is available for most species.
Parasites
Numerous parasites are common in local
populations in Southeast Asia; however,
most of these are rare in travellers. The two
rules to follow if you wish to avoid parasitic
infections are to wear shoes and to avoid
eating raw food, especially fish, pork and
vegetables. A number of parasites are transmitted via the skin by walking barefoot,
including strongyloides, hookworm and
cutaneous larva migrans.
Skin Problems
Fungal rashes are common in humid climates. There are two common fungal
rashes that affect travellers. The first occurs
in moist areas that get less air such as the
groin, armpits and between the toes. It starts
as a red patch that slowly spreads and is
usually itchy. Treatment involves keeping
the skin dry, avoiding chafing and using an
antifungal cream such as Clotrimazole or
Lamisil. Tinea versicolor is also common
this fungus causes small, light-coloured
patches, most commonly on the back, chest
and shoulders. Consult a doctor.
Cuts and scratches become easily infected
in humid climates. Take meticulous care
of any cuts and scratches to prevent complications such as abscesses. Immediately
wash all wounds in clean water and apply
antiseptic. If you develop signs of infection
(increasing pain and redness) see a doctor.
Divers and surfers should be particularly
careful with coral cuts as they become easily infected.
Snakes
Southeast Asia is home to many species of
both poisonous and harmless snakes. Assume all snakes are poisonous and never try
to catch one. Always wear boots and long
pants if walking in an area that may have
snakes. First aid in the event of a snakebite
Sunburn
Even on a cloudy day sunburn can occur
rapidly. Always use a strong sunscreen (at
least factor 30), making sure to reapply after
a swim, and always wear a wide-brimmed
hat and sunglasses outdoors. Avoid lying
in the sun during the hottest part of the
day (10am to 2pm). If you become sunburnt stay out of the sun until you have
recovered, apply cool compresses and take
painkillers for the discomfort. One percent
hydrocortisone cream applied twice daily
is also helpful.
WOMENS HEALTH
Pregnant women should receive specialised
advice before travelling. The ideal time to
travel is in the second trimester (between
16 and 28 weeks), during which the risk of
pregnancy-related problems is at its lowest
and pregnant women generally feel at their
best. During the first trimester there is a risk
of miscarriage and in the third trimester
complications such as premature labour
and high blood pressure are possible. Its
wise to travel with a companion.
Always carry a list of quality medical facilities available at your destination and ensure you continue your standard antenatal
care at these facilities. Avoid rural travel in
areas with poor transportation and medical
facilities. Most of all, ensure travel insurance covers all pregnancy-related possibilities, including premature labour.
Malaria is a high-risk disease in pregnancy. WHO recommends that pregnant
women do not travel to areas that have
Chloroquine-resistant malaria. None of
the more effective antimalarial drugs are
completely safe in pregnancy.
Travellers diarrhoea can quickly lead to
dehydration and result in inadequate blood
flow to the placenta. Many of the drugs
H E A LT H
H E A LT H
Heat
used to treat various diarrhoea bugs are not

recommended in pregnancy. Azithromycin
is considered safe.
In the urban areas of Southeast Asia,
supplies of sanitary products are readily
available. Birth-control options may be
limited so bring adequate supplies of your
own form of contraception. Heat, humidity
and antibiotics can all contribute to thrush.

Treatment is with antifungal creams and
pessaries such as Clotrimazole. A practical
alternative is a single tablet of Fluconazole
(Diflucan). Urinary tract infections can be
precipitated by dehydration or long bus
journeys without toilet stops; bring suitable antibiotics.

465
H E A LT H
464 I N T H E P H I L I P P I N E S W o m e n s H e a l t h

464
465
Language
BODY LANGUAGE
CONTENTS
Pronunciation
Accommodation
Conversation & Essentials
Directions
Emergencies
Health
Language Difficulties
Numbers
Shopping & Services
Time & Dates
Transport
Travel with Children
466
467
467
468
468
468
469
469
469
470
470
471
tongue of every Philippine citizen, its spoken as a second language throughout the
country, and is an official language used for
university instruction and in most legal,
business and governmental transactions
(the other official language is English).
Continuing migration to other parts of
Asia, the Middle East and the USA has resulted in Filipino being spoken by 45 million people on at least three continents.
Filipino belongs to the Malayo-Polynesian
family of languages, which spreads from
Madagascar off the coast of Africa to Tonga
in the South Pacific. From these foundations, the Philippine lingua franca has been
enriched with vocabulary from many
sources, including the islands other native
languages.
Seafaring merchants offered words of
Chinese and Arabic origin during their
many years of trade in the Pacific, and the
300 years of colonial rule under Spain left a
wealth of Spanish vocabulary. Western
travellers may find Filipino grammar a bit
LANGUAGE
Im confused! What exactly is the name of

the national language of the Philippines? Is
it Filipino, Pilipino or Tagalog? And whats
the difference anyway? This multitude of
names causes confusion among Filipinos
and foreigners alike, but in the end the
story behind the naming reflects the cultural and political history of one language,
the lingua franca of the 7000-island archipelago of the Philippines.
Filipino was first incarnated as Tagalog,
a local language still spoken in the Manila
region. Once Manila was selected as the
national capital in 1595, Tagalog became
the countrys most widely spoken language,
and in 1939 it was chosen as the official
language. It was renamed Pilipino 20 years
later to imbue it with a more national flavour, acknowledging the many elements
incorporated from other Philippine languages. The final evolution in the name
game came in 1987, when its initial p was
symbolically replaced by an f to render
Filipino. While the islands local languages
have no native f sound, it was introduced
into the language through centuries of contact with other languages, particularly
Spanish and English, thus acknowledging
the diverse elements that encompass the
modern language.
In a republic with over 165 living languages, Filipino is the archipelagos main
unifying force. Although not the mother
Most Filipinos signify Yes by raising the

eyebrows or lifting the head upwards
slightly. They also do this when they greet
friends.
You can hiss to gain attention, for example, when calling a waiter in a restaurant.
When you want to pay the bill, make the
figure of a rectangle in the air with your index
finger and thumb.
Its considered impolite to pass between
people conversing or facing one another. If
you must do so, the polite Filipino way is to
extend an arm or two arms with the hands
clasped and pointing downwards either
without saying anything or murmuring
iskys.
Touching, especially women, is not taken
well by Filipinos. Youll notice that a Filipino
man will extend his hand to shake yours
but a Filipino woman will not readily do so.
When being introduced to a couple or greeting them, you shake hands with the man and
smile with a nod to the woman.
466 L A N G UA G E P r o n u n c i a t i o n
Ang manidyer ay nagmaneho papunta sa palengke upang bumili ng alak. (The manager drove to the
market to buy liquor).
A simple Filipino sentence but within it are words that vividly demonstrate the Philippines
long, rich history of trade and cultural exchange. Lets break the sentence up and see what we
come up with. A keen ear would easily catch the English-loan word manidyer (manager). Indeed,
were it to appear in a publication, it might even retain its English spelling. It is estimated that
modern Filipino is made up of about 20% English loan words and the number is growing. Not
surprising when you consider that a 1980 census revealed that over half the population of the
Philippines claimed that they spoke English as a second language.
Perhaps less easy for the unaccustomed ear to catch is the word nagmaneho, from the Spanish
manejar (to drive). Spanish loan words make up at least 15% of Filipino vocabulary. While Filipino
is liberally peppered with these relics of Spanish rule, the two languages are far from mutually
intelligible. As very few Filipinos received a formal education in Spanish during colonial times, loan
words from Spanish often mutated and took on a slightly different pronunciation, making them
unintelligible to visitors from Spanish-speaking countries. The Filipino words bandila (flag) and
litrato (photograph) are derived from the Spanish bandera and retrato respectively. Sometimes loan
words have altered meaning completely: seguro means sure in Spanish the Filipino siguro means
maybe! A census taken in 1990 showed that the number of Filipinos who spoke Spanish as a first
language numbered only 2658 limited to some of the old-money families of Spanish descent
who reside in Manila.
Back to the sample sentence. The word palengke may seem familiar to visitors who have travelled in Mexico, where it is spelled palenque and means cockfighting ring. Originally a Maya word
meaning gathering place, its near-identical Filipino equivalent means market. Its likely that the
Spanish in colonial Mexico borrowed the word from the Maya to describe any gathering of indios
(as the Spanish called both the Filipinos and the Native Americans of the New World), and then
introduced the word to the Philippines during the 250-year galleon trade between Mexico and
the Philippines.
Of course, contact with outsiders didnt begin with the Spanish. Evidence of trade with India
and Arabia has also been found in the Philippines and, not surprisingly, the Filipino language
reflects this. The word alak (liquor) shares a lineage with the Malay arak and was derived from the
Arabic araq.
With the advent of Pilipino/Filipino the modified version of Tagalog that was intended to
become the predominant language (and thus, lingua franca) of the Philippines a few feeble
attempts were made to rid the language of foreign influences. In some cases English loan words
were replaced with Spanish ones that had fallen out of everyday usage. There were even attempts
to invent new Pilipino words to replace Spanish loan words. One such word was salipawpaw,
meant to replace the Spanish-derived eroplano. Its no surprise that the doomed salipawpaw never
got off the ground!
of a challenge, but theyll also find a lot of

familiar vocabulary within the linguistic tapestry English influences have been readily
assimilated in recent times, to the extent
that todays Filipino has been given the
nickname Taglish.
Vowels
PRONUNCIATION
When vowels occur in combination, each is

pronounced separately, eg panauhin (visitor) is pronounced pa-na-u-hin.
Some Filipino vowels are pronounced
with what is called a glottal stop. This is
done by making the sound of the vowel,
English speakers should have little trouble

with the pronunciation of Filipino words,
which is generally a close reflection of the
way they are written. Vowels and consonants also have a consistent pronunciation.
a
e
i
o
u
as in far
as in get
as in police
as in more
as in June
L A N G UA G E A c c o m m o d a t i o n 467
then arresting the flow of air. A good example in English is the tt in the Cockney
pronunciation of bottle. Glottal stops
often occur on a word-final vowel.
How much is it for ...? Magkano h para sa ...?

one night
isng gab
a week
isng lingg
two people
dalawng to
Diphthongs
Does it include breakfast?
There are a few diphthongs (combinations

of vowel sounds) in Filipino:
aw
ay
ey
iw
oy
uy
as the ou in mount
as the uy in buy
as in they
produced by making the sound ee
and continuing it to oo
as the oi in noise
produced by making the sound oo
and continuing it to ee
Consonants
Most Filipino consonants are pronounced
in the same way as their English counterparts, with the exception of the following:
g
h
ng
r
s
as in go (except in words of Spanish

origin, especially proper nouns)
as in haste; always aspirated
as in sing; can occur at the beginning
of a word, eg ngayon (now)
rolled to produce a faint trill
as in sun, never as in his
Word Stress
Word stress is marked by an acute accent
over the vowel on which the stress falls, eg
masay (happy). If stress falls on a wordfinal vowel with a circumflex accent (^), the
vowel is pronounced with a glottal stop, eg
masam (bad).
ACCOMMODATION
Im looking for a ...
campground
guesthouse
hotel
motel
youth hostel
Naghhanp h ak ng ...
kampingan
bahay para sa mg turista
otl
motl
youth hostel
Whats the address?

Ano h ang adrs?
Could you write the address, please?

Pakislat niy ng ang adrs.
Id like to book a room, please.

Gsto ko hong magreserba ng kuwarto.
Do you have any rooms available?

May bakante h ba kay?
Kasama na h ba don ang almusl?
Do you have a room with two beds?

May kuwarto h ba kay na may dalawng kama?
Do you have a room with a double bed?

May kuwrto h ba kay na may kamang pangdalawahan?
Id like ...
a single room
to share a dorm
Gsto ko h ...
ng pngsahan na kuwarto
na maksunong sa isng
malakng kuwarto
May I see it?

Where is the
bathroom?
Its fine. Ill take it.
Maar ko h bang tingnn?

Nsan h ba ang banyo?
air-conditioning
bathroom
bottle of water
clean
key
mosquito coil
shower
soap
toilet
toilet paper
towel
water (cold/hot)
erkon
banyo
bote ng tubig
malinis
sus
katl
dutsa
sabn
kubta/CR/toilet
tisyu
tuwalya
(malamg/mainit na) tubig
Sige h. Kukunin ko.
CONVERSATION & ESSENTIALS

Filipino has polite and informal modes of
address. Its better to use the polite form for
adults you dont know well. When you use
the formal mode with friends or younger
adults, youll more than likely get the comment: Dont use h/p with me. Im not
that old yet. Where both the polite and
informal are given in this guide, they are
marked pol and inf respectively.
Use the title mam for a man who is a
stranger or ale for a woman. You may also
use misis/mis (Mrs/Miss) for adult female
strangers. Use sir for a professional man or
maam for a professional woman. The more
friendly and familiar terms pre (for a man)
or brad (for a younger adult, if you are
yourself one) may also be used for a man
LANGUAGE
LANGUAGE
WHAT ARE THEY SPEAKING? Steven Martin
468 L A N G UA G E D i re c t i o n s
who is of your age or younger, eg Iskys

lang, pre (Excuse me, my friend).
Good morning.
Good morning.
Magandng umaga h. (pol)

Magandng umaga. (inf)
Magandng umaga naman h.
(response)
Good afternoon.
Good evening.
Hello.
Goodbye.
Bye.
Yes.
No.
Excuse me.
Sorry.
Thank you (very
much).
Youre welcome.
Whats your name?
My name is ...
May I take your
photo?
Magandng hapon h.
Magandng gab h.
Kumusta h.
Paalam na h.
Babay/Sige na muna. (inf)
Oh/Op.
Hindi h.
Mawalng-galang na nga h.
Iskyus/Sori h.
(Marming) salmat h.
Wal hong anuman. (lit: its
nothing)
Anng pangalan niny?
Ak si ...
Mari ko ba kayng kunan ng
litrato?
How do we get
to ...?
Is it far from here?
Is it near here?
Can we walk
there?
Can you show me
(on the map)?
Papano h namin marratng

ang ...?
Malay h ba dito?
Malapit h ba dito?
Puwede h bang lakarin?
What ... is this?

province
street
town
village
An h bang ... it?

probinsya
kalye
bayan
baryo
Puwede h ba niyng ipakita

(sa mapa)?
SIGNS
Most of the signs in airports and stations are
in English, so you shouldnt encounter any
major problems getting around.
Manit/Malamg
Pasukn
Labsan
Bawal Pumsok
Bawal Manigarlyo
Buks/Sar
Bawal
CR
Hot/Cold
Entrance
Exit
No Entry
No Smoking
Open/Closed
Prohibited
Toilets
EMERGENCIES
Help!
Watch out!
Go away!
Where are the
toilets?
Saklolo!
Ingat!
Umals ka!
Nsan h ang CR?
Call the/a ...!

police
doctor
ambulance
Tumawag ka ng ...!
puls
doktr
ambulansiya
antiseptic
aspirin
bandage
Band-aids
condoms
painkillers
sanitary napkins
soap
sunblock
tampons
toilet paper
L A N G UA G E L a n g u a g e D i f f i c u l t i e s 469
antiseptiko
aspirina
benda
koritas
kondom
gamt na pang- pakalma ng kirt
tampon
sabn
sunblock
tampon
tilet peyper
LANGUAGE DIFFICULTIES
Turn ...
Lumik sa ...
right
kanan
left
kaliw
at the next corner knto
at the traffic lights law
Go straight ahead.
behind ...
in front of ...
opposite
north
south
east
west
Tuly-tuly lang h.
sa likd ng ...
sa harp ng ...
katapt ng
norte/hilag
timog
silangan
kanluran
HEALTH
Where is the ...?
chemist
doctor
hospital
Nsan h ang ...?

botka
doktr
ospitl
Im sick.
My friend is sick.
I need a doctor who
speaks English.
Could I see a female
doctor?
Im pregnant.
I feel nauseous.
I have a headache.
I have a stomachache.
May sakt h ak.

May sakit h ang kasama ko.
Kailngan ko h ng doktr na
marnong mag-Inggls.
Puwde hong magpatingn sa
babeng doktr?
Bunts h ak.
Ak ay naniliy.
Masakt h ang ulo ko.
Masakt h ang tiyn ko.
Im ...
diabetic
asthmatic
anaemic
May ... ak.

diabitis
hik
anemya
Im allergic to ...
antibiotics
penicillin
Allergic ak sa ...
antibiyotik
penisiln
Do you speak
English?
Does anyone here
speak English?
I understand.
I dont understand.
Please write it down.
How do you say ...?
What does ... mean?
Marunong ba kayng
mag-Inggls?
Meron h bang marunong
mag-Inggls dito?
Niintindihn ko h.
Hind ko h niintindihn.
Pakisulat niy ng yn.
Papno h ba sabhin ...?
Ano h ang ibig sabhin ng ...?
NUMBERS
There are two sets of numbers: the native
Filipino and the Spanish, written the Filipino way. Spanish numbers are used for
times, dates and prices which have both the
high and low denomination or are above 10
pesos. English numbers are also widely
used to express prices. For example the
price P1.50 is uno singkuwenta or one fifty,
but P1.00 is simply piso in Filipino.
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
SPANISH
FILIPINO
uno
dos
tres
kuwatro
singko
seis
siyete
otso
nuwebe
diyes
onse
dose
trse
katrse
knse
disiseis
disisiyete
disiotso
disinuwebe
is
dalaw
tatl
apt
lim
nim
pit
wal
siym
samp
labng-is
labndalaw
labntatl
labng-pat
labnlim
labng-nim
labmpit
labng-wal
labnsiym
20
21
30
40
50
60
70
80
90
100
1000
1,000,000
beynte
beynte uno
treynta
kuwarenta
singkuwenta
sisenta
sitenta
otsnta
nobenta
siyento
isang mil
isang milyon
dalawamp
dalawamput is
tatlump
patnap
limamp
nimnap
pitump
walump
siyamnap
sandan
isng libo/sanlbo
isang angaw
SHOPPING & SERVICES

Where is a ...?
San h may ...?
bank
bangko
bookshop
tindahan ng libr
chemist/pharmacy botika/parmasya
consulate
konsulado
embassy
embahada
general store
tindahan
market
palengke
museum
museo
police station
istasyn ng puls
post office
pos opis
public telephone
telpon
public toilet
comfort room/CR/plikuran
town square
plasa
I want to change ... Gsto ko hong magpapalt ng ...
cash/money
pera
travellers cheques travellers check
I want to call ...
Where can I use
email?
I need to check my
email.
What time does it
open/close?
Gsto ko hng tawagan ...

San h kay ak
makakagamit ng email?
Kailangan ko hng tingnn ang
email ko.
Anng oras h it nagbbuks/
nagssar?
Where can I buy ...?

Id like to buy ...
I dont like it.
Can I look at it?
Im just looking.
How much is this?
Do you accept
credit cards?
I think its too
expensive.
Can you lower the
price?
San ako makakabili ng ...?

Gsto ko hng bumili ng ...
Ayoko nit.
Maar bang tingnn?
Tumtingn h lang ak.
Magkano h it?
Tumtanggp ba kay ng
credit card?
Ang mahl-mahl namn.
May tawad h ba iyn?
LANGUAGE
LANGUAGE
DIRECTIONS
470 L A N G UA G E Ti m e & D a t e s
big
small
more
many
enough
malak
malit
mas marami
marami
sapt
TIME & DATES

The Filipino counterparts of am and pm
are n.u. for ng umaga (in the morning), n.t.
for ng tanghal (at noon), n.h. for ng hapon
(in the afternoon) and n.g. for ng gab (in
the evening/at night).
What time is it?
Its (five) am.
Its (seven) pm.
morning
afternoon
night
now
today
this morning
this afternoon
tonight
tomorrow
yesterday
Anong ras na?

Alas (singko) n.u.
Alas (siyete) n.g.
umaga
hpon
gab
ngayn
ngayng araw
ngayng umga
ngayng hapon
ngayng gab
bukas
kahapon
Monday
Tuesday
Wednesday
Thursday
Friday
Saturday
Sunday
Lunes
Martes
Miyrkols
Huwebes
Biyernes
Sbado
Lingg
January
February
March
April
May
June
July
August
September
October
November
December
Enero
Pebrero
Marso
Abrl
Mayo
Hunyo
Hulyo
Agosto
Setyembre
Oktubre
Nobyembre
Disyembre
TRANSPORT
Where is the ...?

bus station
Metro station
Nsan h ang ...?

terminl ng bus
ang istasyn ng Metro Tren
nearest LRT station ang pinakamalapit na

train station
road to ...
istasyn ng LRT
istasyn ng tren
dan papuntng ...
What time does

the ... leave/arrive?
boat/ship
bus
plane
train
Anng oras h als/dratng

ang ...?
bangka/bapr
bus
eroplno
tren
Where can I buy

a ticket?
San h maaring bumil ng tiket?
Id like a ... ticket.

one-way
return
1st class
2nd class
Where can I rent a

car?
Where can I hire a
bicycle?
San h maring umupa ng

awto?
San h puwedeng umarkil ng
bisikleta?
TRAVEL WITH CHILDREN

Is there a ...?
child-minding service
serbis na pagbabanty ng bat
cot
kuna
disposable nappies
dispsabl dayper
infant painkillers
Mayron bang ...?
painkiller para sa bat
I need a/an ...
highchair
Kailangan ko ng ...
highchair
baby change room
potty
bihisn para sa beybi
arinola
baby seat
pambatang upuan
(English-speaking) babysitter
... tiket nga h.
isng one-way
isng round trip
1st class
2nd class

L A N G UA G E T r a v e l w i t h C h i l d re n 471
tagapag-alag (na marunong ng Ingls)
booster seat
pang-alsng upuan
Are children allowed?

Puwede ba ang mga bat?
Do you mind if I breastfeed here?

Puwede ba akng magpasuso dito?
There are designated bus stops for regular

buses, but you can often get off anywhere,
depending on the mood of the driver and
the traffic situation just say Para! (Stop!)
loudly.
Where is the bus stop?
Nsan h ang hintan ng bus?
Which bus goes to ...?

Alng bus h ang papunt sa ...?
Does this bus go to ...?

Papunt h ba itng bus na it sa ...?
I want to get off at ...

Bbab h ako sa ...
What station is this?
LANGUAGE
LANGUAGE
Half past is expressed by the word imdya,

eg Alas seis imdya (Its half past six).
Ano hng istasyn it?
Whats the next station?

An h ba ang susund na istasyn?
Does this train stop at ...?

Humhint h ba ang tren na it sa ...?
The train is delayed/cancelled.

Nhul/Nkansel h ang tren.
How long will it be delayed?

Gaano katagl h mahhul?
Is this taxi free?

Please take me to ...
Stop here!
Where does the boat
leave from?
How long does the
trip take?
Is that seat taken?
Baknte h ba ang taksi na it?

Dalhn nga niy ak sa ...
Para na h dito!
Mul h san als ang bark?
Gaano h katagl ang biyahe?
May nakaup na h ba diyn?
Also available from Lonely Planet:

Filipino Phrasebook

472

G L O S S A R Y 473
Glossary
arnis de mano a pre-Hispanic style of stick-fighting
(more commonly known simply as arnis)
MENU DECODER
Filipino the national language; created out of Tagalog,

the language in Manila and surrounding provinces
Names of dishes often describe the way they are cooked, so its worth remembering that adobo
is stewed in vinegar and garlic, sinigang is sour soup, ginataan means cooked in coconut milk,
kilawin or kinilaw is raw or vinegared seafood, pangat or pinangat includes tomatoes in a light
broth and inihaw is grilled meat or fish (ihaw-ihaw denotes eateries that specialise in grilled
food). The word for spicy is maanghng.
fronton jai alai court

bagyo typhoon
bahala na you could almost call this the national
waitresses; unofficially they are sex workers
haribon the Philippine eagle, an endangered species;

haribon literally means king of birds
HSBC Hong Kong and Shanghai Banking Corporation
jai alai a fast-paced ball game, and one of the more

popular sports in the Philippines
jeepney a brightly painted vehicle that looks like an extended jeep, fitted with benches, adorned with everything
but a kitchen sink and crammed with passengers
jusi fabric woven from ramie fibres; used to make a
barong
kalabaw water buffalo
kalesa horse-drawn carriage
kundiman a melancholy genre of song originating in
Manila (and the Tagalog region); one of the countrys most
loved musical idioms
DENR Department of Environment & Natural Resources

DOH Department of Health
DOT Department of Tourism
lechon spit-roast whole pig served with liver sauce

lechon kawali crispy fried pork
lomi type of noodle dish
lumpia spring rolls filled with meat or/and
vegetables
mami noodle soup; similar to mee in Malaysia or

Indonesia
manok chicken
menudo pork bits sauted with garlic and onion
and usually garnished with sliced hotdog
pansit bihon thick- or thin-noodle soup
pinakbet mixed vegetable stew
pochero hotpot of beef, chicken, pork, Spanish
sausage and vegetables, principally cabbage
pusit squid or cuttlefish
rellenong bangus fried stuffed milkfish
tanigue tuna steak, usually grilled (also known as
tanguigue)
tapsilog a modern compound combining three
words: tapa (dried beef ), sinangag (garlic fried rice)
and itlog (fried egg); usually eaten for breakfast
tocino cured pork made with saltpetre
lahar rain-induced landslide of volcanic debris; mud

from volcanic ash
mestisos Filipinos of mixed descent, specifically
Eurasians or Amerasians; a Filipino of mixed Asian ancestry
is not called a mestiso
MILF Moro Islamic Liberation Front
MNLF Moro National Liberation Front
Moro Spanish colonial term for Muslim Filipinos, once
derogatory but now worn with some pride
PNP Philippine National Police

poblasyon town centre
RCBC Rizal Commercial Banking Corporation
sabong cockfighting
santo religious statue
sari-sari small neighbourhood store stocked with all kinds
of daily necessities; sari-sari literally means assortment
nara a hardwood tree, the Philippine national tree

nipa a type of palm tree, the leaves of which are used
for making nipa huts, the typical house in rural areas
NPA New Peoples Army
Tagalog the dominant dialect of Manila and

surrounding provinces, now the national language
called Filipino
tamaraw an endangered species of native buffalo,
found only in Mindoro; one of the most endangered
animals in the world
tinikling Philippine national folk dance
tricycle a Philippine rickshaw, formerly pedal-powered
but now predominantly motorised
swidden farming the cultivation of an area of land

that has been cleared through the use of slash-and-burn
agricultural practices
VFA Visiting Forces Agreement

v-hire local van/minibus
paraw traditional outrigger with jib and mainsail

pasyon Christs Passion, sung or re-enacted every Holy
Week
CBST Community-Based Sustainable Tourism

CR Comfort Room (toilet)
or a mixture of both, marinated in vinegar and garlic

and stewed until tender
adobong pusit squid or cuttlefish cooked adobo-style
arroz caldo Spanish-style thick rice soup with
chicken, garlic, ginger and onions
aso dog; eaten with relish (or just plain) by North
Luzons hilltribes
baboy pork
balut boiled duck egg containing a partially formed
embryo
bangus milkfish, grilled, fried, or cooked as sinigang
or paksiw bihon rice sticks
calamares crispy fried squid
carne or karne meat
crispy pata crispy fried pork hock or knuckles
goto rice porridge made with pork or beef innards
gulay vegetables
guyabano soursop
halu-hal various fruit preserves served in shaved
ice and milk
lapu-lapu groper (also spelled grouper); fish
Philvolcs Philippine Institute of Volcanology &

Seismology
Pinoy a term Filipinos call themselves
pinya fabric woven from pineapple fibres; commonly
used to make a barong
PNB Philippine National Bank
GLOSSARY
GLOSSARY
philosophy; in the days before the advent of Christianity,

god was called bathala by ancient Filipinos; the expression
bahala na is derived from this word and expresses faith
(God will provide) as well a kind of fatalism (come what
may); its somewhere between an Australian no worries
and Kurt Vonneguts so it goes, but less individualistic
than either: all things shall pass and in the meantime life
is to be lived, preferably in the company of ones friends
and most importantly family
bahay na bato stone house
balangay artfully crafted seagoing outrigger boat
balikbayan an overseas Filipino returning or paying a
visit to the Philippines
balisong fan or butterfly knife
bangka a wooden boat, usually with outriggers
and powered by a cannibalised automotive engine;
a pumpboat
barangay village, neighbourhood or community, the
basic sociopolitical unit of Filipino society
barong a generic term to describe the Filipino local
dress (for women) and shirt (for men) that is the national
costume; it usually has a heavily embroidered or patterned
front
Barong Tagalog traditional Filipino formal shirt (the
barong was originally for men only; it refers only to the
shirt), with elaborate embroidery or patterning down the
front; made of jusi or pinya
baryo district or neighbourhood
bas-relief style of sculpture that stands out from a
surrounding flat stone background
bayanihan Filipino tradition wherein neighbours
would help a relocating family by carrying their house to
its new location. More generally, the word has come
to mean a communal spirit that makes seemingly
impossible feats possible through the power of unity and
cooperation
BPI Bank of the Philippine Islands
butanding whale shark
adobo often called the national dish; chicken, pork

GROs Guest Relation Officers are officially glorified

476 N O T E S
477
Index
A
B
Babuyan Islands 179-80
Bacolod 282-6, 284
Bacuit Archipelago 16, 424-7, 425, 6
Bagacay 346-7
Baguio 153-61, 156-7
Baguio Buddhist Temple 155
Bahay Tsinoy 78-9
Bais City 279-80
Balanga 130
Balangay Festival 377
Balangay Shrine Museum 377
Balangiga 353
Balbalasang-Balbalan National Park
170
Balcuartro Islands 350
Baler 175-7, 177
Baliangao Wetland Park 402
Balicasag Island 269
Balingoan 378
Bamboo Organ Festival 119, 437
Banaue 170, 171
Banaue Museum 171
Bandila-an Nature Centre 297
bangka 451-2
Bantayan Island 247-9, 248
Banton Island 343-4
Baragatan Festival 412
Barcelona 195
bargaining 443
Barlig 167-8
Basilica Minore del Santo Nio 232
basketball 44, 106
Bataan Death March 129-30
Bataan Peninsula 129-30
Batan Island 180-2
Batanes 180-3, 181
Batangas 124
bathrooms 444
Bato 255
Bauang 144-5
Baybay 363
Benoni 380
Bicol 186-96
bicycle travel, see cycling
Big La Laguna 214, 213
Biliran Island 363-6, 365
Binondo 79, 81, 82
birds 52
Biri-Las Rosas Islands 349
Black Nazarene Procession 88, 437
boat travel
bangka 451-2
fastcraft 451
ferries 451
to/from the Philippines 449
within the Philippines 451-2
Bocos 172
Bogo 246-7
Bohol 261-74, 262, 68
Bohol Interior 270-2
Bolinao 139-40
Bonbonon 281-2
Bongao 404-5
Bontoc 166-7, 167
Bontoc Museum 166
books, see literature
Bool 272
Boracay 325-35, 326, 6
Borongan 352
Botolan 138-9
Brookes Point 417
Buenavista 201-2, 273
Bug-ong 380
Bukilat Cave 260
Bulabog Puti-An National Park 317-18
Bulalacao 220
Bulata 294
Bulusan Volcano National Park 195-6
Burauen 359
Burgos 375
Burgos, Father Jos 147
Burias Island 347
bus travel 452
business hours 434, see also inside
front cover
Busuanga Island 427-30, 427
Butterfly Sanctuary 232-3
Butuan 376-8, 377
Butuan Regional Museum 377
C
Cabilao Island 269-70
Cadiz 291
Cadlao Island 426
Caecogobius cryptophthalmus 350
Cagayan de Oro 382-5, 383
Caibiran Volcano 366
Cajidiocan 343
Calabugdong Island 421
Calamba 124-5
Calamian Group 16, 427-31, 427
Calapan 216-19
Calbayog 350
INDEX
Abra de Ilog 220-1

Abra Province 169-70
accommodation 432-3
activities 16, 433-4, see also individual
activities
adventure sports 16
adventure tours 131, 179, 191, 206,
221, 256, 300, 455
Agoho 380
Aguinaldo, General Emilio 26, 27, 119
air pollution 461
air travel 446-9
airfares 447-9, 450
airlines 447
airports 446-7
to/from the Philippines 446-9
within the Philippines 449-51
Alaminos 126
Alburquerque 272
Alcantara 338
All Saints Day (Todos los Santos) 439
Allen 349-50
Anda 273-4
Ang Sinulog fiesta 386
Angeles 132-3
Anilao 123-4
animals 52
Aninuan 216
Antequera 272, 313
Apo Island 281
Apo Reef National Park 222
Apulit Island 420-1
Aquino, Corazon Cory 29, 31
Aquino Jr, Benigno Ninoy 29, 30
architecture 42
Argao 254
ARMM (Autonomous Region in
Muslim Mindanao) 37, 368,
369, 403
Arroceros Forest Park 78
arts 40-4, see also individual arts
Ati-Atihan Festival 322, 437, 7, 312
ATMs 441
Ayala Museum 85
Index (C-D)
Calbiga Cave 351

Camiguin 378-82, 379
Camotes Islands 258-60, 259
Camp John Hay 158, 310
Candijay 273-4
canoeing 126, 433, see also kayaking,
rafting
car travel 452-3
driving licence 452
insurance 453
rental 452-3
Carabao Island 335-7
Caramoan National Park 189
Casa Gorordo Museum 232
Casa Manila 78
Casino Filipino 233
Catanduanes 196-9, 197
Catarman 349
Catbalogan 350-2
cathedrals, see churches & cathedrals
Catholicism 37-8
Caticlan 324-5
caves, see also individual caves
Mindanao 371, 385, 392
Mindoro 206
North Luzon 164, 178-9
Palawan 417
Southeast Luzon 192, 202
Visayas, the 260, 266, 272, 297,
317, 347, 351
caving 434
Cavite 119
Cebu 227-58, 228
Cebu City 227-42, 231
accommodation 234-6
activities 233
attractions 232-3
entertainment 237-8
festivals & events 233-4
food 236-7
history 229
Internet access 230
medical services 230
shopping 238
tourist information 230
travel to/from 238-40
travel within 240-2
Chikungunya fever 459
child prostitution 39
children, travel with 48, 435
Chinatown 79-81
000 Map pages
000 Photograph pages
Index (D-I)
Chinese Cemetery 83-4

Chocolate Hills 270-1, 68
Christianity 37-8
churches & cathedrals
Baguio Cathedral 155
Basilica Minore del Santo Nio 232
Bell Church 155
Cagsawa Church 192
Church of St James 139
Church of St Louis of Toulouse 128
Church of San Vicente 149
Daraga Church 192
Manila Cathedral 77
Paoay Church 152
Quiapo Church 79
St Michael Archangel Basilica 128
St Paul Cathedral 146
St Williams Cathedral 149
San Agustin Church 77
San Jos Church 119
Santa Maria Church 149
cinema 41
Clark Special Economic Zone 132-3
Claveria (North Luzon) 179-80
Claveria (Visayas) 347
climate 14-15, 435-6
Cloud Nine 375
cockfighting 44, 106, 151
Coco Beach 214
Coconut Palace 83, 309
consulates 437
Cordillera, the 153-75, 154
Coron Island 16, 54, 430-1
Coron Town 428-30, 428
Corregidor 117-18
costs 15
Cotabato 395-6
courses 61
credit cards 441-2
Crisologo Museum 147
crucifixion reenactments 132, 438
Cubao 70, 88
Cultural Center of the Philippines 82-3
culture 33-44
customs regulations 436
Cutaneous Larva Migrans 459
cycling 434, 451
D
Daan Bantayan 247
Dabaw Museum 389
Daet 186-7
Danao 246
dance 43-4, 105
dangers 436
Danjugan Island 294

Dapitan 402-3
Dauin 280-1
Davao 387-91, 388
deep vein thrombosis (DVT) 458
deforestation 55-6
diarrhoea 461
Dimakya Island 431
Dinagat 376
Dinagyang Festival 300, 437
Diocesan Ecclesiastical Museum 377
Dipolog 403
disabled travellers 436
diving 22, 59-66, 87, 188, 434, 461-2,
see also snorkelling, wreck diving
Alona Beach 64
Anilao 61-2, 123
Apo Island 64, 281
Apo Reef 222
Bacuit Archipelago 66, 58
Balicasag Island 64, 269
Banton Island 343-4
Boracay 65, 328, 58
Cabilao Island 269-70
Camiguin Island 65, 379
Carabao Island 335-7
Cathedral Rock 62
Coron 428, 430
Dauin 280-1
Davao 65
Donsol 63
Dumaguete 277
Escarceo (Lighthouse) Point 63
General Santos 65
Guihulngan 280
Guindalman 273
Honda Bay 66
Lingayen Gulf 63
Luzon 61-3
Mactan Island 64, 242
Malapascua Island 64, 249, 250-1
Mindanao 65
Mindoro 63-4
Miniloc Island 66
Moalboal 64, 255-6
Padre Burgos 359-60
Palawan 65-6
Panglao Island 64, 266
Pescador Island 256
Puerto Galera 63-4
Sabang 210-13, 57
Samal Island 391
San Fernando (La Union) 63, 144
Siargao 374
Sipalay 292
Subic Bay 63, 131

Sulu Sea 66
Verde Island 64
Visayas, the 64-5
White Beach (Mindoro Oriental)
214
dolphin-watching 255, 266, 269,
279, 360
Doa Paz 352
Donsol 194-5
drinks 46-7
driving licence 452
Dumaguete 274-9, 276
dysentery 461
E
Eagle Conservation Centre 392
economy 23, 30-1
ecotourism 409
EDSA (Epifanio de los Santos)
Revolution 29
El Nido 421-4, 422
El Nido Marine Reserve 55
electricity 432
embassies 437
emergencies, see inside front cover
environmental issues 55-6
Ermita 81-2, 80-1
Escalante 291-2
Estrada, Joseph 31-2
events, see festivals & events
Excavation Museum 207
exchange rates, see inside front cover
Kabankalan Sinulog 286, 437

Kadayawan sa Dabaw Festival
389, 438
Kalilangan Festival 393
Lanzones Festival 381
Lem-Lunay Festival 395, 439
MassKara Festival 282, 439
Moriones Festival 201, 438
Pahiyas sa Lucban 128, 438, 7,
8, 310
Paraw Regatta 300, 438
Peafrancia Festival 187, 439
Pintaflores Festival 292, 439
Pistay Dayat 142, 438
Shariff Kabungsuan Festival
396, 439
Sinulog 233-4
Tuna Festival 393, 438
Viva Vigan Festival of the Arts
148, 438
filariasis 459
Flower Island 421
food 45-6, 48-51, 439
customs 48
festivals 47
street food 103
vegetarian travellers 48
Fort Ilocandia 151
Fort Pilar 397
Fort San Pedro 232
Fort Santiago 77
FX travel, see van travel
G
F
fastcraft 451
fax services 443-4
ferries 451
festivals & events 16
All Saints Day (Todos los Santos)
439
Ang Sinulog fiesta 386
Ati-Atihan Festival 322, 437,
7, 312
Balangay Festival 377
Bamboo Organ Festival 119, 437
Baragatan Festival 412
Black Nazarene Procession 88, 437
crucifixion reenactments 132, 438
Dinagyang Festival 300, 437
Fiesta de Nuestra Seora Virgen
del Pilar 399, 439
Gotad Ad Kiangan Festival 175
Independence Day 89, 438
Kaamulan Festival 385, 438
Gasan 201
gay travellers 439
General Luna 374-5
General Santos (Dadiangas) 393-4
geography 52
giardiasis 461
golf 87, 119, 151, 158, 328, 402
Gotad Ad Kiangan Festival 175
GSIS Museo ng Sining 83
Guihulngan 280
Guimaras 306-17, 307
Guimbal 318
Guindalman 273-4
Guiuan 352-3
H
handicrafts 107, 128, 165, 221, 390-1,
393, 413, 443
health 456-64
books 458
food 462
479
insurance 456
vaccinations 456-7
websites 458
heat exhaustion 462
Helicopter Island 426
hepatitis 459
Hibok-Hibok volcano 380
hiking 434, see also individual
mountains
Mindoro 211, 216, 217, 222
North Luzon 22, 138, 161, 164-5,
168-9, 173-4, 178, 182
Palawan 417
Southeast Luzon 188, 189, 193-4,
199
Visayas, the 279, 361, 380, 393
Hinagdanan Cave 266
history 24-32
hitching 453
HIV 459
Hofilea, Ramon 290
holidays 14, 439-40
Honda Bay 414-15
horse fighting 395, 396, 7
horse riding 256, 308, 317, 328,
364, 402
Hundred Islands National Park 140-2
I
Iba 138-9
Icadambanuan Island 421
Ifugao people 175, 8
Igorot people 36
Iligan 386
Ilocos 145-53
Iloilo City 299-306, 302
accommodation 300-4
activities 300
attractions 300
emergency services 299
entertainment 305
festivals & events 300
food 304-5
medical services 299
shopping 305
tourist information 299
travel within 306
immigration 35-6
Independence Day 89, 438
influenza 459
insect bites & stings 462-3
insurance 440, 453
Internet access 440
Internet resources 17
INDEX
INDEX
478
480
Index (I-M)
Intramuros 75-8, 76, 309

Islam 37
Itbayat Island 183
itineraries 12, 18-22, 71
J
Jagna 273-4
Japanese B Encephalitis 459-60
jeepneys 114-15, 453-4, 309
jet lag 458
Jolo 403
Kaamulan Festival 385, 438
Kabankalan Sinulog 286, 437
Kabayan 161-2
Kabayan National Museum 161
Kadaclan 167-8
Kadayawan sa Dabaw Festival 389,
438
kalesa 115, 145, 309
Kalibo 321-4, 322
Kalilangan Festival 393
Kalinga Province 168-70
karaoke 40, 105
kayaking 141, 179, 189, 211,
300, 319, 328, 385, 433, see
also canoeing, rafting
Koronadal (Marbel) 395
Kuguita 380
L
La Carlota 286-7
Lake Danao National Park 363-4
Lake Lanao 386-7
Lake Sebu 395
Lake Taal 120, 122, 68
Lamud Island 431
language 465-71
food vocabulary 48-51
Lanzones Festival 381
Laoag 149-51, 150
Larena 296
Las Pias 118-19
Lazi 298
legal matters 440
Legaspi 190-2, 191, 193
Legazpi, Miguel Lopez de 25, 70, 75,
229, 272
Lem-Lunay Festival 395, 439
lesbian travellers 439
000 Map pages
Leyte 354-63, 355

Lilo-an 254-5
Limasawa Island 360
Liminancong 421
Lingayen 142
Lingayen Gulf 139-45, 141
literature 15, 41-2
live-aboards 433
Loboc 271, 313
Long Hua Temple 389
Looc 337-8
Los Baos 125
Lucban 128
Lucena 128-9
M
Maasin 361-2
Macapagal-Arroyo, Gloria 23, 32, 84
MacArthur, General Douglas 27-8,
117-18, 142, 354, 358
Ma-Cho Temple 144
Mactan Island 242-4, 243
magazines 432
Magdapio Falls 126-7
Magellans cross 232
Mainit 167
Makati 85, 86-7
Malacaang Palace 84-5
Malapascua Island 16, 249-53, 250
malaria 460
Malatapay 281
Malate 81-2, 80-1
Malaybalay 385-6
Maligcong 167
Malitbog 360-1
Mambajao 380
Mamburao 221
Mandaon 347
Mangyan people 218
Manila 69-115, 72-3, 80-1, 82, 84,
86-7, 88, 90, 93, 117
accommodation 89-96
activities 85-8
attractions 75-85
drinking 102-4
emergency services 74
entertainment 104-6
festivals & events 88-9
food 96-102
history 70
Internet access 74
itineraries 18, 71
medical services 74-5
shopping 106-8
tours 88
travel agencies 75
travel within 113-15
Manila Cathedral 77
Manila Zoological & Botanical
Gardens 82
Manobo people 36-40
maps 440
map symbols 492
Marabut Islands 353-4
Marawi 386-7
Marcos Museum & Mausoleum 151
Marcos, Ferdinand 28-9, 30, 151
Marcos, Imelda 28, 29, 83, 354, 356
Marinduque 199-202, 200
markets 443
Baguio 160
Carbon Market 232
Manila 107
Oroquieta 401
Masbate 344-7, 345
Masbate Town 345-6
MassKara Festival 282, 439
Matabungkay 119-20
Matanglag 172
Matinloc Island 426
Matnog 196
Maya 247
measles 460
measures 432, see also inside front
cover
medical services 458-9
Mestizo District 147, 311
metric conversions, see inside front
cover
Metropolitan Museum of Manila 83
Miagao 318
Mindanao 367-403, 369, 314
Mindoro 203-24, 204
Mindoro Occidental 220-4
Mindoro Oriental 205-20
minibuses, see van travel
Miniloc Island 426, 67, 316
Moalboal 255-8
Monad Shoal 250
money 15, 436, 440-2, see also inside
front cover
moneychangers 442
Moriones Festival 201, 438
Moro Islamic Liberation Front (MILF)
368, 370
Moro Islamic National Liberation Front
(MNLF) 368, 370, 404
Moros 25
motion sickness 458
motorcycle travel 452-3

Mt Ampacao 165
Mt Apo 392-3
Mt Arayat 134
Mt Banahaw 127
Mt Bulusan 196
Mt Cabalian 361
54, 343
Mt Halcon 217
Mt Iglit-Baco National Park 53, 222-3
Mt Isarog National Park 53, 189
Mt Kanlaon National Park 287-8
Mt Makiling 125
Mt Malindang National Park 401
Mt Malindig 199
Mt Mantalingajan 417
Mt Mayon 192-4
Mt Napulawan 174
Mt Pinabuto 134
Mt Pulag National Park 162
Mt Riposed 183
Mt Samat 130
Mt Santo Tomas 158
Mt Tabaro 120, 122
Mt Talinis 280
Mt Tapulao 138
Mt Three Peaks 260
mountain climbing, see hiking
mummies 161, 311
museums
Ayala Museum 85
Balangay Shrine Museum 377
Banaue Museum 171
Bontoc Museum 166
Butuan Regional Museum 377
Casa Gorordo Museum 232
Crisologo Museum 147
Dabaw Museum 389
Diocesan Ecclesiastical Museum 377
Excavation Museum 207
GSIS Museo ng Sining 83
Kabayan National Museum 161
Marcos Museum & Mausoleum 151
Metropolitan Museum of Manila
83
Museo Ilocos Norte 149
Museo Ng Makati 85
Museo San Pablo 147
Museum of Cordillera Sculpture
171-2
National Museum of the Filipino
People 79
National Museum of the Philippines
(Cagsawa Ruins) 192

Philippines (Magsingal) 149
Philippines (Manila) 79
Padre Jos Burgos National
Museum 147
Palawan Museum 411
Rizal Museum 402
St Louis University Museum 155
San Agustin Museum 77
Tboli Museum 395
music 40-1, 105
481
natural parks, see national parks

Naval 364
Negrito people 36
Negros 274-94, 275
Negros Occidental 282-94
Negros Oriental 274-82
newspapers 38-9, 432
Nogas Island 319
North Luzon 22, 135-83, 136
North Pandan Island 16, 221-2
NPA (New Peoples Army) 28, 137,
185-6, 222, 347
Nueva Vizcaya 177-8
N
Naga 187-9, 187
Nasugbu 119
National Museum of the Filipino
People 79
(Cagsawa Ruins) 192
(Magsingal) 149
(Manila) 79
national parks 53-5
Apo Reef National Park 222
Balbalasang-Balbalan National
Park 170
Baliangao Wetland Park 402
Bulabog Puti-An National Park
317-18
Bulusan Volcano National Park
195-6
Caramoan National Park 189
Coron Island 16, 54, 430-1
El Nido Marine Reserve 55
Hundred Islands National Park 140-2
Lake Danao National Park 363-4
54, 343
Mt Iglit-Baco National Park 53,
222-3
Mt Isarog National Park 53, 189
Mt Kanlaon National Park 287-8
Mt Malindang National Park 401
Mt Pulag National Park 162
Northern Sierra Madre Natural
Park 53, 178
National Park 415-16, 316
Rajah Sikatuna National Park 272
Sohoton Natural Bridge National
Park 359
Twin Lakes National Park 279
Natonin 167-8
O
Odiongan 338-9
Olango Island 244-5, 243
Olango Island Wildlife Sanctuary 245
Olongapo 130-2
Ormoc 362-3, 362
Oroquieta 401-2
Ozamis 401
P
Pacific War Memorial 118
Pacijan Island 258-9
Paco 80
Padre Burgos 359-60
Padre Jos Burgos National Museum
147
Pagsanjan 126-8
Pagsanjan River 126, 67
Pagudpud 16, 152-3, 311
Pahiyas sa Lucban 128, 438, 7, 8, 310
painting 43
Palawan 406-31, 407, 411, 418
Palawan Museum 411
Paliton Beach 297
Palo 358-9
Pamilacan Island 269
Panagsama Beach 255, 257
Panay 298-325, 301
Pandan 199
Pangalusian Island 426
Panglao Island 265-9, 267
Paoay 152
Paraaque 70, 84
parasites 463
Paraw Regatta 300, 438
Pasay 70, 84
passports 446
Patar Beach 139-40
Peafrancia Festival 187, 439
People Power 30-1
photography 442
INDEX
INDEX
Index (M-P)

I n d e x ( T - Z ) 483
Index (P-S)
Pilar 375
Pinasil Island 426
Pintaflores Festival 292, 439
Pistay Dayat 142, 438
planning 14-17, 436, see
also itineraries
plants 53
Poctoy 202
Poitan 172
politics 23
Ponson Island 260
population 23, 35
Poro Island 260
Port Barton 419-20, 316
postal services 442
poverty 23
prostitution 39
public holidays 439-40
Puerto Galera 205-8, 207, 209, 67
Puerto Princesa 410-14, 412
National Park 415-16, 316
pumpboats, see bangka
Pundaquit 138
Punta Ballo 293
Puraran 198
Q
Quezon (Palawan) 417
Quezon City (Manila) 85, 88
Quezon Memorial Circle 85
Quiapo 79, 82
R
rabies 460
radio 39, 432
rafting 168, 169, 385, 433, see
also canoeing, kayaking
Rajah Sikatuna National Park 272
reef damage 56
religion 37-8
Remedios Circle 82
rice terraces 169
Banaue 170-2, 68, 310
Barlig 167-8
Batad 173
Hapao 173
Iyusan 365
Julungan 175
Kadaclan 167-8
Kiangan 173
000 Map pages
Maligcong 167
Mayoyao 173
Nagacadan 175
Natonin 167-8
Salangi 365
Sampao 365
Tiolas 318
Rio Hondo 397
Rizal Beach 195
Rizal Museum 402
Rizal Park 78-9, 80-1
Rizal Shrine (Calamba) 125
Rizal Shrine (Manila) 77
Rizal, Dr Jos 26, 41
road rules 453
Romblon 335-44, 336
Romblon Island 339-41
Roxas (Mindoro) 219-20
Roxas (Palawan) 418-19
Roxas (Visayas) 319-21
S
Sabang 210-13, 415-17, 210
Sablayan 221
Sabtang Island 182-3
Sacol Island 401
safety 23, 75, 137, 185-6, 370-1,
408, 436
Sagada 162-5, 163
Sagay 291
Sagbayan Peak 272
St Louis University Museum 155
Salagdoong 298
Salcedo, Juan de 145
Samal Island 391-2
Samar 347-54, 348
Samboan 255
San Agustin (Visayas) 339
San Agustin Church & Museum
(Manila) 77
San Carlos 292
San Fabian 142
San Fernando (La Union) 142-5, 143
San Fernando (Pampanga) 132
San Jos (Antique) 319
San Jos (Mindoro) 223-4, 223
San Juan 144-5, 297-8
San Pablo 125-6
Sangat Island 431
Santa Cruz (Manila) 79, 82
Santa Cruz (Southeast Luzon) 202
Santa Cruz Islands 401
scams 436
schistosomiasis 460
sculpture 43
Seng Guan Buddhist Temple 81

Shariff Kabungsuan Festival 396, 439
sharks 62, 63, 64, 194, 222, 249,
250, 360
shopping 443
Baguio 160
Cebu City 238
Iloilo City 305
Manila 106-8
Siargao 373-6, 314
Sibuyan Island 342-3
Silang, Diego 145
Silay 288-90, 289
Simunol Island 405
Sinulog 233-4
Sipalay 292-4
Siquijor 294-8, 295
Siquijor Town 297
skin problems 463
Small La Laguna 213-14, 213
snakes 463
snorkelling 434, see also diving
Boracay 328
Donsol 194
Honda Bay 414
Hundred Islands National Park
141
Matinloc Island 426
Matnog 196
Puraran 198
Samal Island 391
Samboan 255
Sogod 246
Sohoton Natural Bridge National
Park 359
Solano 177-8
Sorsogon 195
Southeast Luzon 184-202, 185
spas 87
special events, see festivals & events
sports 44
Star City 83
STDs 460
Subic Bay Freeport Zone 130-2
Sugar Beach 292, 293
Sulu Islands 403-5, 404
Sumilon Island 254
sunburn 463
surfing 176, 186, 198, 373, 375,
376, 434
Surigao 371-3, 372, 374
T
Taal 123
Taal Volcano 120, 122
Tabaco 194
Tablas Island 337-9
Tabon Caves 417
Tabuelan 253
Tabuk 169
Tacloban 354-8, 357
Tagaytay 120-2
Tagbilaran 261-5, 264
Talibon 273
Talilkud Island 392
Talingting 298
Talipanan 216
Talisay 122-3
Taluksangay 401
Tam-an 172
Tamaraw Falls 206
Tangalan 324
Taoist Temple (Cebu City) 233
Taoist Temple (Davao) 389
Tapiutan Island 426
Tarsier Visitors Centre 271-2
Tawi-Tawi Islands 404-5
taxi travel 454-5
Tayabas 128
Taytay 420
Tboli Museum 395
Tboli people 395
telephone services 443-4
Ternate 119
theatre 42-3, 105
Tibiao 319
Ticao Island 347
time 444, 490-1
Tinglayen 168-9
Tiolas 318-19
tipping 442
toilets 444
Toledo 245-6
Tops Lookout (Cebu City) 233
tourist information 444-5

tours 455, see also individual locations
train travel 455
travellers cheques 442
trekking, see hiking
Tres Reyes Islands 201
tricycles 115, 455
tuberculosis 461
Tubigon 272-3
Tuguegarao 178-9
Tuna Festival 393, 438
turu-tur 45, 47
TV 41, 432
Twin Lakes National Park 279
typhoid 461
typhus 461
U
Ubay 273
Uson Island 431
V
Valencia 280
van travel 455
vegetarian travellers 48
video systems 432, 442
videoke 40
Vigan 145-9, 146
Virac 197, 198
visas 445, see also passports
Visayas, the 225-366, 226
Viva Vigan Festival of the Arts 148,
438
volcanoes 381
Caibiran Volcano 366
Hibok-Hibok volcano 380
Mt Apo 392-3
Mt Arayat 134
Mt Banahaw 127
Mt Bulusan 196
Mt Isarog 189
Mt Kanlaon 287
Mt Makiling 125
Mt Malindig 199
Mt Mayon 192-4
Mt Pinabuto 134
Mt Tabaro 122
Taal Volcano 120, 122
W
weather, see climate
weights 432, see also inside front cover
whale-watching 180, 269, 279
White Beach (Cebu) 255
White Beach (Mindoro Oriental)
214-16, 215
White Beach (Boracay) 325, 330,
312
White Island 380
windsurfing 325, 328-9, 332, 434
women in the Philippines 23, 38
women travellers 443, 445
womens health 463-4
work 445
World War II 27-8, 70, 75, 117, 129,
139, 354, 358, 362, 427
wreck diving 65, 250, 387, 427, 430,
see also diving
Y
Yamashita, General Tomoyuki 28, 137,
153, 174, 362
Yumbing 380
Z
Zambales Coast 138-9
Zamboanga 397-400, 398
Zamboanga Peninsula 396-403
INDEX
INDEX
482

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