Pattern Play

SAILOR
PANTS
{ by Ana Jankovic }

Add a nautical touch to

your wardrobe by creating
a pair of classic sailor pants.

Look for a simple

pant pattern, such
as Vogue 2532.

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sew NEWS

AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2012

Dart Width

Dart
Width

Crotch
Dart Height

2
Supplies
7 High-waisted pant pattern with front
& back darts (such as Vogue 2532)
7 Fabric & interfacing (amount according to pattern envelope, plus 12 yard)
7 Lining fabric scraps
7 Eight 1-diameter buttons
7 All-purpose thread & notions
(according to pattern envelope)
7 Tissue or pattern paper
7 Rulers: clear flexible & curved
7 Removable fabric marker
7 Hand sewing needle
7 Hand embroidery needle (optional)
7 Coordinating embroidery floss
(optional)

5
3
Pocket
Facing
Back
Pocket

Prepare
Cut out the pattern pieces.
Before beginning the alterations, pinfit or make a muslin fitting sample of
the selected pattern.
Make any necessary fit adjustments
to the pattern, and then trace a copy
on paper, transferring all markings.

Alter
Mark the front pattern upper-edge
center. Ignore the front dart. Draw a
vertical line extending approximately
7 downward from the upper-edge
mark. (The line lower end should be
level with the front crotch line when
wearing the pants.)
Draw a line at a slight diagonal angle
connecting the vertical line lower end
to the side-seam edge. This is the
pocket upper edge.

Extend the vertical line by approximately 4, ending level with the front
crotch curve. Draw a diagonal line
extending from the vertical line end,
parallel to the pocket upper-edge line.
This is the pocket lower edge.
Trace the front pocket area onto new
paper. Measure the front-dart length
and width; record. Using the recorded
measurements, remove the dart
amount from the pocket left edge by
drawing a diagonal line connecting the
pocket upper edge and left side (1).
To create the front-pocket facing edge,
draw a curved L-shaped line 114 from
the pocket left edge and upper pocket
line (2).
Trim the pocket area from the front
pattern along the vertical line and pocket
upper-edge line. Cut out the pocket,

and then cut along the pocket facing

line. Label the upper section pocket facing and the lower section pocket (3).
On the back pattern, mark the centerback 8 below the upper edge. Draw
a diagonal line from the side-seam
edge to the mark, intersecting the
dart lower point. This is the back-yoke
lower edge (4).
Cut the back pattern along the dart
legs and yoke line. Discard the dart.
Draw a 2 x 5 rectangle for the pocket
flap pattern. Diagonally trim the
pocket-flap lower corners. Center
the pocket flap along the back-pattern
upper edge, and then mark placement
notches on the back pattern (5).
To create the front-facing pattern
lower edge, mark the center-front edge

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Pattern Play

3
Facing

approximately 312 from the upper

edge. Draw a line extending from the
mark, parallel to the upper edge, and
then draw an L-shaped line 112 from
and parallel to the cut pocket edges.
Trace the facing pattern onto new
paper (6).
To create the front-hip facing pattern, copy the pocket facing onto new
paper. Mark the side-seam edge at
the back yoke lower-edge point. Draw
a diagonal line parallel to the lower
edge, extending from the mark to the
original pocket line. Trim away the
lower section. Label the pattern fronthip facing (7).
Add 58 seam allowance to the pattern piece new cut edges.

Cut
From the fabric, cut one front pair,
one pocket facing pair, one back pair,
two side-back yoke pairs, two centerback yoke pairs, four pocket flaps, one
front facing on the fold and one fronthip facing pair.
From the lining fabric, cut two pocket
pairs.
From the interfacing, cut two sideback yoke pairs, two center-back yoke
pairs, four pocket flaps, one front facing
on the fold and one front-hip facing pair.
Fuse the interfacing pieces to the
corresponding fabric pieces.

Construct
Serge- or zigzag-finish all piece edges
before construction. Use 58 seam
allowances.

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sew NEWS

AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2012

Front

9
Front-Hip
Facing

With right sides together, stitch one

left side-back yoke to one left center
back yoke; press open the seam.
Repeat to construct the remaining left
back-yoke pieces; this is the left back
facing. Repeat to construct the right
back yoke and right back facing.
Align two pocket flaps with right sides
together; pin. Stitch the sides and
lower edge. Trim the seam allowance
and then turn the flap to the right
side; press. If desired, hand embroider
the sides and lower edge using a long
running stitch. Repeat to construct the
remaining pocket flap.
Position the left pocket flap along the
left-back upper edge according to the
placement notches; baste. Repeat to
baste the right pocket flap to the rightback upper edge.
With right sides together, stitch the
left back-yoke lower edge to the leftback upper edge. Repeat to stitch the
right back yoke to the right-back upper
edge. Press the seams upward (8).

Embroider

With right sides together, stitch the

left front and back legs along the
inseam; press open the seam. Repeat
to stitch the right inseam.
With right sides together, stitch the
crotch seam; press open.
With right sides together, stitch one
left-pocket upper edge to the left
front-facing lower edge, aligning the
side-seam edges. Press the seam toward the pocket. Repeat to stitch one
right-pocket upper edge to the right
front-facing lower edge.
With right sides together, align the
front facing with the pant front; pin.
Stitch the upper edge. Trim the seam
allowance and corners, and then fold
the facing toward the wrong side;
press. If desired, hand embroider the
upper edge using a long running stitch
(9). Mark three evenly spaced 112wide horizontal buttonholes along
each front-panel inner edge. Stitch
the buttonholes through the front
and facing layers.

With right sides together, position

the remaining left pocket over the left
pocket facing, aligning the pocket upper edge with the pocket-facing lower
edge. Align the side-seam edges; pin,
and then stitch along the pocket upper
edge. Press the seams toward the
pocket. Repeat to stitch the remaining
right-pocket upper edge to the right
pocket-facing lower edge (10).

With right sides together, stitch

the back-facing center-back seam;
press open.
With right sides together, stitch the
left front-hip facing side-seam edge
to the back-facing left side-seam edge;
press open. Repeat to stitch the right
front-hip facing to the back-facing
right side-seam edge.

With right sides together, stitch the

left front-hip facing to the left-pocket
facing along the upper and inner
edges. Fold the hip facing toward the
wrong side; press. Repeat to stitch
the right front-hip facing to the rightpocket facing.

With right sides together, position

the constructed waist facing over the
pant back and front-pocket facing,
aligning the upper edges and side
and center-back seams; pin. Stitch
the upper edge. Grade the seam
allowance, and then fold the facing
toward the wrong side; press.

With the right sides facing up, position

the pant front over the constructed pockets,
aligning the upper- and side-seam edges;
pin (11).

Cut open the buttonholes, and then

mark the button placements along
each pocket-facing inner edge. Hand
stitch a button at each mark.

Stitch the pocket inner and lower

edges, and then serge- or zigzagfinish the pocket seams for additional
reinforcement.

Mark each pocket-flap center from

the lower edge. Hand stitch a button
at each mark through all layers.

Pin the pocket and front-facing inner

edges, leaving the pant-front fabric layer
free. Hand stitch the pocket and frontfacing lower corners together (12).
With right sides together, stitch the
pant side seams; press open. Turn the
pants right side out.

10

Slipstitch the front-facing lower edge

to the pant front, making sure the
stitches arent visible on the right side.

11

12

Stitch

Hem the pants according to the

pattern guidesheet. Z
SOURCE
Vogue Pattern Company carries 2532:
voguepatterns.com.

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