STEPS

POLE
DANCING
How to make the most of
24 hours in Warsaw.
BY MATTHEW WEXLER

ve gone rogue via Rail Europe. This

year Poland became one of the 28
countries accessible with Eurails
Global Pass. So while Im eager to hit Berlin
and Amsterdam, Ive come by trainand
not the slow-chugging Amtrak variety
to spend a day in the land of vodka, perogies, and unforgettable club-hopping.

12PM: ZAPIECEK
I know its going to be a
marathon so I carbload at Zapiecek
(zapiecek.eu), a
traditional Polish
restaurant specializing in perogies and
other traditional fare.
The heaping platters of steamed and
pan-fried dumplings are stuffed with an
array of savory and sweet fillings, from
cabbage and pork to gooey blueberries
that are sure to stain your shirt if you
dont bite cautiously. Its the sustenance
needed for a big night ahead.
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2PM: POLIN

4PM: SOUND GARDEN

A visit to Warsaw isnt complete without

acknowledging the magnitude of
World War II. Germans decimated the
city in 1944 in response to the Polish resistance. Nearly 85 percent of the historic center was destroyed, and the
majority of the citys 350,000 Jews died
at the hands of the Nazis. The POLIN
Museum of the History of Polish Jews
(polin.pl) offers a harrowing recount of
that era throughout the 43,000-squarefoot exhibition space, which traces the
Jewish journey from medieval times
through the present day.
I check in to Warsaws first smart hotel,
the Sound Garden (soundgardenhotel.pl). Think citizenM meets Hard Rock
Hotel. The music-themed floors offer efficiently designed rooms with plenty of
gadgets to entertain me while I
recharge before a night on the town, including quick self check-in, superfast
Wi-Fi, and a rain shower big enough for
twoif Im lucky.

TRAVEL

Old town square

8PM: BLOK
My Polish pub crawl begins at Blok
(blokbar.pl), one of the latest clubs to
join Warsaws bustling nightlife scene. I
ascend to the sixth floor walk-up, following the arrows pointing up a dilapidated staircase dotted with burned-out
lights. Once inside, the astounding graffiti art, craft cocktails, and local beer provide an enticing backdrop for a local
and mellow crowd. I chat up a patron
who tells me the space used to be a
prison, but the name could also be derived from the Blok group of Polish
avant-garde artists from the 1920s.

11PM: GLAM CLUB

Just a short walk from Blok, Glam Club

(glamowo.blogspot.com) is a narrow bar
with a lounge area in the front and progressive dance floors. As I scurry to the
back bar, I realize I have yet to imbibe in
the national spirit, so I gulp down a
vodka shot and hit the dance floor with
the mixed crowd. Polands drinking age
is 18, evidenced by the young and enthusiastic crowd, including a lanky local
whos insisting on a sucker punch to his
abs by screaming, Box! Box! I oblige
and narrowly avoid a Polish catfight
when his girlfriend eyes the exchange.
Time for a quick exit.

1AM: TORO
My vodka shot has kicked in, so Im feeling warm and fuzzy for a final stop at
Toro (toro.waw.pl), a mainstay of Warsaws nightlife scene with stunning bartenders like Polands Next Top Model
finalist Michal Baryza. The crowd is
feistier than at previous stops, many outfitted in sports gear with fanny packs
fashionably clipped across their chests.
Im told that the bump-and-grind continues until 6am, but Ive got another
country to conquer in the morning, so its
dobranoc (goodnight) for me. N

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