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Indoor Furniture

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DOWNLOADABLE ONLINE WOODWORKING PLANS

http://www.woodonline.com

One bookcase, three

popular styles
Simply change the wood type and trim details to suit your taste.
Well show you how.

Traditional

Country

Shaker

Heres a masterpiece you can build that will showcase your treasured tomes for years to come. Simply build the basic case in the
wood of your choice, and then add the traditional, country, or Shaker top and bottom trim. The bookcase, which measures 33"
wide by 13" deep by approximately 6' high, has a fixed shelf and three adjustable shelves to hold loads of books or display items.
We used primarily oak and oak plywood for the traditional bookcase, cherry and cherry plywood for the Shaker unit, and knotty
pine and knotty-pine plywood for the country look. But, you also can use less-expensive materials, such as solid poplar with birch
plywood, particularly if you plan to paint the unit.
DP-00301

Copyright Meredith Corporation 2003

Page 1 of 13

First, build a case

1 Cut the sides (A) to the size listed in the
Materials List, on pages 11-12. As explained
in the Materials key, choose the plywood
species that suits your bookcase style.
2 Using a dado-blade set adjusted to the
thickness of your " plywood, cut "-deep
rabbets on the inside face of the sides (A)
at their ends, where shown on Drawing 1.
Then, cut a "-deep dado near the center,
where dimensioned. Now, on the outside
face of the sides, drill countersunk shank
holes centered on the width of the rabbets
and dadoes.
3 To drill the 196 4" holes on the inside face
of the sides (A) for the shelf paddle-support
sleeves, where dimensioned on Drawings 1
and 1a, first mark centerlines for the holes
on masking tape along the sides inside faces.
Mark near one edge first, and then transfer
the marks to the opposite edge using a
framing square. (See the sidebar, right, for
more information on the shelf support and
sleeve hardware.)
4 Next, chuck a 196 4" brad-point bit in your
drill press, and position the fence 1" back
from the bits center. Make an index mark
on the fence centered with the bit. Then,
aligning the marked centerlines with the
index mark, drill "-deep holes in the sides,
as shown in Photo A. Now, sand the sides
with 220-grit sandpaper.
5 From "-thick stock, cut four
171" pieces to form the front stiles
(B). Laminate the pieces to make a pair
of 1"-thick stiles.
6 Using the same dado-blade stack as
before, cut a " rabbet " deep along the
back face of the stiles, where shown on
Drawing 2, Step 1, to receive the sides
(A). Then, glue and clamp the stiles to the
front edge of the sides, where shown on
Drawing 3. When the glue dries, adjust the
dado set to match your "-thick stock, and
cut a "-deep groove along the inside face
of the stiles, where shown on Drawing 2,
Step 2.
7 Cut the top, fixed shelf, and bottom
(C) and their accompanying rails (D, E, F)
to size.
8 For a Shaker bookcase, lay out the
curve on the top front rail (D), where
dimensioned on Drawing 4. Then, bandsaw
and sand the rail to shape.

Fence

1"

A
1964"

brad-point bit

Index mark and

centerline aligned
With the marked centerlines on the tape aligned
with the drill-press fences index mark, drill 1964"
holes "-deep in the sides (A).
"-diameter
paddle support

"-diameter
sleeve

Beveled end

A case for shelf supports with

metal sleeves
Ever been frustrated by shelf supports that wont
stay in their holes, sag over time, or require pliers
to remove? Holes that are worn or drilled slightly
oversize to prevent binding cause the first two
problems, and holes that are swollen by moisture
or drilled slightly undersize to resist loosening
cause the third problem. Heres a simple way
to prevent these irritations. Use brass paddle
supports with mating sleeves, shown in the photo
above. The sleeves protect the holes from wear,
and they provide a consistent fit with the supports
so theyre always easy to insert and remove.
Another plus: The sleeves hide the hole walls,
which can be unsightly, particularly in plywood.
To ensure the "-diameter sleeves stay
snug in their holes, drill the holes using a 1964"
brad-point bit. To install the sleeves, insert their
beveled end in the holes, and tap them in flush
with a hammer. See Sources on page 11 to buy
the paddle supports, sleeves, and bit.

Page 2 of 13

1a SHELF SUPPORT

1 SIDE

9 For a country bookcase,

11"
make four copies of the top
front rail/base front trim
full-size partial pattern, on
" rabbet
page 13. Next, draw a centerline
" deep
across the width of the top front
1"
1"
rail (D). Spray-adhere two copies
to the rail, aligning them 11"
with the
1"
marked centerline, where shown
on Drawing 5. (Youll need to
trim one copy and "
flip
it over
rabbet
1964" hole
to complete the contour.)
" deep Set
" deep
aside the remaining copies. Now,
bandsaw and sand1"the rail 1"
to
shape, and remove the patterns.
10 Glue and clamp the top,1"
fixedshelf, and bottom front rails (D,
42"
E, F) to the top, fixed shelf, and
bottom (C), where shown
on
1964" hole
Drawing 3, keeping the "
railsdeep
and
panels ends flush and the rails
top edge even with the panels
top face. Position the top panels
A
best face down and the fixed
shelf and bottom panels best face
71"
up. When42"
the glue dries, sand the2 FRONT STILE DETAIL TOP VIEW
assemblies smooth.
10"
11 Assemble the case by gluing,
screwing, and clamping the side
"
assemblies (A/B) to the top, fixedshelf, and bottom assemblies (C/
D, C/E, C/F). Check the case for
A
" dado
square.
" deep
" shank holes,
71"

Step 1 Cut the rabbet, and glue the stile B

countersunk on
to the side A .

" E

I
J
K
L
M5"

1"

1"

Size to match
thickness of
plywood.

5"

W
X

2 FRONT STILE DETAIL TOP VIEW

2 FRONT STILE DETAIL TOP VIEW

Step 1 Cut the rabbet, and glue the stile B
to the side A .

1"
Back face

" rabbet
" deep

1"

Size to match
thickness of
plywood.

"
Step 2 Cut a groove in the stile/side assembly.

Good face

10"

"

B
A

"

Size to
match
" groove " deep, cut after part B
thickness of
is glued to part A
" stock for
parts K and L .

" rabbet
" deep

" for par

" for par

Y
Z

"

"

" shank holes,

countersunk on
outside face

Sleeves

Brass paddle
support

Sleeves

Back face

1"

1964" hole
" deep

" rabbet
" deep

T
"Gdado
" Hdeep
U

1a SHELF
SUPPORT DETAIL

outside face

1"

P
C10"

1964" hole
" deep

1a SHELF SUPPORT DETAIL

(Inside face shown)

"

Page 3 of 13

"

"

" d
"

10"
FILENAME:154Bookcase1.eps

3 EXPLODED VIEW
(Bookcase with traditional trim shown)
#8 x 1" F.H. W
wood screw

3 EXPLODED VIEW
(Bookcase with traditional trim shown)

W
#8 x 1" V
F.H.
wood screw

11"

31"
C

K
Y

71"
10"

71"

31"

Brass-paddle
support

Y
" rabbet
" deep in part A

28

K
28"

4"

H
4"

" shank hole,

countersunk
on bottom side
L

C
26"

26"

21"
"

"

1"

#8Hx 1" F.H.

wood screw
1"

3a TOP SECTION VIEW

13"
10"
#8 x 1" F.H.
Z
wood screw

1"
I

"
" rabbet
" deep in part A
#6 x " F.H.
wood screw
C
J

10"

10"

A
1"

21"

5"

"

2"

"

K
K

39"

1"

5"34"

1"
13" B
G
10"
#8 x 1" F.H.
Z 1"
wood screw

1"

#6 x " F.H.
wood screw

Page 4 of 13

FILENAME:154Bookcase3.eps

3"

#8 x 1" F.H.
wood screw

38"

34"

" shank hole,

countersunk

71"
B

"

38"

39"

" shank hole,F

countersunk
on bottom side

Brass-paddle
support

1"

31"
M

Sleeve
2"

764"

Sleeve

#8 x 1" F.H.
wood screw

pilot hole
" deep
31"
J
C
" shank hole,
countersunk
D
#8 x 1" F.H.
wood screw
G 3"

pilot hole
" deep

1"

#8 x 1" F.H.
wood screw

32"S

764"

31"
M
A

#6
w

32"

V
#6 x " F.H.
wood screw
U

" shank hole,

countersunk on rear

D
#8 x 1" F.H.
wood screw
10"

31"

11"

11"

X
9 64

W
11"

964" shank hole,

countersunk on rear

3a TOP SECTION VIEW

Now, complete the case

1 Cut the top side rails (G), middle and
bottom side rails (H), and back stiles (I) to
5 COUNTRY
TOP FRONT
RAILglue
AND BASE TRIM
size. Sand
the parts smooth.
To avoid
squeeze-out when mounting these parts, see
the Shop Tip, right.
2 Glue and clamp the top side rails (G) and
A groovy way to put the squeeze on glue
bottom side rails (H) to the sides (A), flush
squeeze-out
with their top and bottom edges, where
shown on Drawing 3. Then, when the glue
Removing
dries, glue and clamp the middle side rails
excess
(H) to the sides, as shown in Photo B.
" groove "
glue when
"
3 Glue and clamp the back stiles (I) to
deep
assembling
" chamfer on part P
the sides (A), flush with their ends and
" from edge
parts is
P
tight against
the side31"
rails (G, H).34"
The stiles
Glue surface
messy and
overhang the sides back edges by ".
3" the " plywood back (J) to size.
D
risky.
If
you
4 5"Cut
Then,
4"
leave the
on the
2" rear of the back, drill countersunk
shank holes, where
shown
on
Drawing
3.
slightest
Full-size pattern Full-size pattern
3"
Now, position
the17"
back on the case,
drill
reversed
1"residue, it can
1"
pilot holes using theTOP
shank
holes
as
guides,
seal the wood and block stain penetration, resulting
D
FRONT RAIL
and drive the screws.
AND BASE FRONT TRIM P
in a blotchy finish. Heres a simple way to avoid the
5 Cut the upper and lower fillers (K, L) to size
problem. Cut " grooves " deep " from a parts
to"
fitchamfer
the "-wide grooves in the front stiles
edges on its glue surface, where shown above.
(B). For traditional and Shaker bookcases,
Then, apply glue to the area between the grooves,
cut the upper filler (K) 39" long. For a
and clamp the part in place. The grooves will
country bookcase, cut the upper filler (K)
Q
capture the excess glue, preventing it from oozing
5"
38" long. Glue and clamp the fillers in place.
beyond the parts edges.
6 Cut the adjustable shelves (M) and shelf
5 COUNTRY TOP FRONT RAIL AND BASE TRIM
trim (N) to size. Then, glue and clamp the
trim to the shelves, flush
with their ends and
13"
top faces. Sand the shelves
smooth.
BASE SIDE
TRIM

SHOP TIP

" chamfer along top edge of part P

From here, part D extends 1",

and part P extends 3".

RAIL

Align with center of parts D and P .

TOP FRONT RAIL D /BASE FRONT TRIM P

FULL-SIZE PARTIAL PATTERN
FOR COUNTRY BOOKCASE
(4 needed)

4 SHAKER TOP FRONT RAIL AND BASE TRIM

" round-over

34"

5 COUNTRY TOP FRONT RAIL AND BASE TRIM

" chamfer on part P

31"

P
D
"

1"

3" 5"

"

TOP FRONT RAIL D

AND BASE FRONT TRIM P

2"

34"

31"
" chamfer along top edge of part P

5"

3"

From here, part D extends 1",

and part P extends 3".

TOP FRONT RAIL D /BASE FRONT TRIM P

FULL-SIZE PARTIAL PATTERN
FOR COUNTRY BOOKCASE
(4 needed)

Align with center of parts D and P .

4"

2"
3"

" round-over

Full-size pattern
17"

Full-size pattern
reversed
TOP FRONT RAIL D
AND BASE FRONT TRIM P

1"

1"

" chamfer

Q
"

5"
Q

1"
2"

9"
13"

5"

13"
BASE SIDE TRIM

BASE SIDE TRIM

4 SHAKER TOP FRONT RAIL

AND BASE TRIM

Page 5 of 13
" round-over

34"
31"

Add the base

1 Cut the bottom panel (O) to size. Next,
to form the front trim (P) and side trim (Q),
cut a 565" workpiece from "-thick stock.
Then, rout the applicable profile along
an edge of the workpiece. For a Shaker
bookcase, rout a " round-over where
shown on Drawing 4. For a country
bookcase, rout a " chamfer, where shown
on Drawing 5. For a traditional bookcase,
rout a " cove, where shown on Drawing 6.
2 Miter-cut the trim (P, Q) to length to fit
the bottom panel. For the best appearance,
maintain a continuous grain flow across
the trim pieces, as laid out on the Cutting
Diagram.
3 Lay out the applicable contour on the
trim. For a Shaker bookcase, lay out the
curve on the front and side trim (P, Q),
where dimensioned on Drawing 4. For a
country bookcase, adhere the remaining
two copies of the base front trim pattern
to the front trim (P), as you did for the top
front rail (D), where shown on Drawing 5.
[The country bases side trim (Q) does not
have a contour.] For a traditional base, lay
out the contour on the front and side trim
(P, Q), where dimensioned on Drawing 6.
4 Bandsaw the trim to shape, cutting just
outside the lines, and then sand to the lines.
5 Cut the corner blocks (R) to size, anglecutting one end, where dimensioned on
Drawing 6.
6 Mark centerlines for #20 biscuits on the
bottom panel (O), trim (P, Q), and corner
blocks (R), where shown on Drawing 6.
Then, position your biscuit-joiner fence to
center the slot cutter on the thickness of the
bottom panel. Plunge all of the slots except
the ones in the trims mitered ends. For these,
reposition the fence to offset the slot " from
the trims inside face to ensure the slot cutter
does not go through the outside face. Now,
plunge the slots in the mitered ends.
7 Assemble the bottom panel, trim, and
corner blocks, as shown in Photo C. When
the glue dries, sand the assembly smooth.
8 Using a helper, set the bookcase on its
back on your workbench. Then, position
and clamp the base assembly (O/P/Q/R)
tight against the bookcases bottom, flush
with the back and centered side to side.
Drill countersunk mounting holes through
the bottom panel (O) and " into the
bottom (C), where shown on Drawings 3
and 6, and drive the screws. Now, with the
instructions in one of the three following
sections, add a traditional, Shaker, or country
top to the bookcase.

A
B

21"- long
spacers
Bottom
side rail H
Using 21"-long spacers to position the middle side rail
(H) above the bottom side rail, glue and clamp the rail to
the side (A).

C
O

R
Q

With glue applied in the biscuit slots, assemble the

bottom panel (O), trim (P, Q), and corner blocks (R) with
#20 biscuits, and clamp the assembly together.

Page 6 of 13

" shank hole, countersunk

on bottom side

6 BASE (TRADITIONAL-STYLE TRIM SHOWN)

O
" cove

5"

33"

Q
"

R="

12"
" cove

#8 x 1" F.H.
wood screw

6"
#20 biscuit

#20 biscuit

P
2"

"

4"
"

2"

34"
Mitered ends

Make a traditional top

1 Cut the plywood top panel (S) to size. Then,
miter-cut the front and side edging (T, U) to
length to fit the panel, where shown on Drawing
7. Now, glue and clamp the edging to the panel.
2 To form the top trim assembly, cut the band,
cap, and cove blanks (V, W, X) to the listed sizes,
except cut the cove blank (X) to a width of 1".
(The cove blank is initially extra wide for safety
when routing.) Rout a " chamfer along an edge
of the cap blank (W) and a " cove along an edge
of the cove blank (X), where shown. Now, rip the
cove blank to a width of ".
FILENAME:154Bookcase5.eps
3 Glue and clamp the blanks together in the
Date: 10-03
arrangement
shown on Drawings 7 and 7a.
Lorna
J.
When the glue dries, miter-cut the assembly so
the back (short) edge measures 12" for the sides
and 32" for the front.
4 Glue the front trim piece to the top panel (S),
as shown in Photo D. Then, glue and clamp the
side trim pieces in place.
5 With the bookcase on its back, position and
clamp the top panel/trim assembly (S through X)
tight against the bookcases top, flush with the
back and centered side to side. Drill mounting
holes through the top panel (S) and into the top
(C), where shown on Drawings 3 and 7, and
drive the screws.
6 To form the front and side dentil molding (Y,
Z), shown on Drawings 3 and 3a, cut a 54"
workpiece from "-thick oak. Mark the locations
for " dadoes spaced " apart along the length of
the workpiece, where dimensioned on Drawing
8. Now, using a dado blade, cut the dadoes "
deep.
7 Cut the molding to the listed lengths, leaving
"-wide recesses at the ends of the front dentil
molding (Y) and " wide recesses at the ends of

2"

2"

13"

12"- wide
spacer

V
S
X

U
Back
edge

Using a 12"-wide scrap spacer to position the front

trim (V/W/X) from the back edge of the top panel (S)
and centering the assembly side to side, glue and
clamp it to the panel.

the side dentil molding (Z), where shown. Now, glue

the front molding to the top front rail (D) and the side
molding to the top side rails (G), tight against the toppanel edging (T, U), where shown on Drawing 3.

Page 7 of 13

1"
Back face

TRADITIONAL TOP

" rabbet
" deep

1"

Size to match
thickness of 7
plywood.

TRADITIONAL TOP

"

32"

" chamfer

"

" cove

X
12"

#8 x 1" F.H.
wood screw

Size to
match
"
" groov
thickness of
" stock for
parts K and L .

Mitered ends

12"

" shank hole,

countersunk

"

S
33"

13"

34"

Mitered ends

TRADITIONAL TOP
" shank hole,
7a SIDE SECTION DETAIL#8 x 1" F.H.
countersunk
wood screw
BB

1"

" chamfer

33"

"

AA

"

" chamfer

"

" cove

8 DENTIL MOLDING DETAIL

12"

2"

"

BB

15"

12"

"

" deep

12"

U
2"
" shank hole, countersunk

DD

" chamfer

#8 x 1" F.H.8
wood
screw
DENTIL

HH
EE

38"

#8 x 1
wood s

17 bevel
Mitered"
ends
dadoes

17 bevel

"

FF

32"

2"

"

" cove
"

37"

" for part Y

" for part Z

33"

MOLDING
15"DETAIL
34"

33"

FF

Page 8 of 13

12"

2"
DD
CC

14"

" cove

"

2"

BB

BB

V 9 SHAKER TOP
12"

"

17

" shank hole, countersunk

S

DD

#8 x 1" F.H. wood screw

" chamfer

EE

" 2"

"

DD

2"

EE

2"

38"

CC

SBuild37"
a Shaker top

N
O CC

P34"
Q

GG

33"

12"

12"

37"

DD

13"
DD

GG

"
FF

AA

BB

17

14"

14"

17 bevelHH

9a SIDE SECTION DETAILMitered ends

12

2"

15"
FF

33"

38"

37" D

34"

15"

#8 x 1" F.H. wood screw

HH

HH

33"

" shank hole, countersunk

DD

" chamfer

10 COUNTRY TOP

BB

2"

2"

FF

FF

" chamfer

#8 x 1" F.H.
wood screw

countersunk

"

17 bevel

Mitered ends

7a SIDE SECTION
DETAIL
" shank
hole,

15"

17 bevel

Mitered ends

17 bevel

X
"

15"

BB

37"bevel
17

2"
BB

" cove
2"

BB

AA

9a SIDE SECTION DETAIL

2"
"

34"

12"

AA

S
W

33"

33"12"

37"

1"

" chamfer

"

Mitered

#8 x 1" F.H.
33"
wood screw

BB

13"

#8 x 1" F.H.
wood screw
Mitered ends

" shank hole,

countersunk

12"

#8 x 1" F.H.
wood screw

"

"

34"

Mitered ends

33"

"Ushank S
hole,
countersunk
2"

" cove

13"

HH

Mitered
ends DETAIL
SIDE SECTION
10a

1 Cut the plywood top G

panel
(S) to size. Then, miterT
cut the front and side edging (AA, BB) to length to fit
the panel, where shown on Drawing
9. Now, glue and
" chamfer
H U
2"
clamp the edging to the panel.
FF
2 Tilt your tablesaws blade to
V 17 from vertical. Now,
AME:154Bookcase6.eps
using a tall auxiliary fenceI attached to your rip fence for
DD
0-03
" chamfer
.
support, bevel-rip the edging,
J W where dimensioned on
Drawing 9a, cutting the side edging first and then the
front edging. Sand the bevels X
smooth.
HH
3 With the bookcase onK its back, position and clamp
Y
the top panel/trim assembly (S/AA/BB)
tight against the
s
38"
bookcases top, flush withLthe back and centered side
EE to
Z
side. Drill mounting
through
the
top
panel
(S)
and
"holes
chamfer
M
10a SIDE
DETAIL
into the top (C), where shown on2"Drawings
3 andSECTION
9,
and drive the screws.

2"
COUNTRY TOP

"

FF
HH

DD

2"

" shan

#8 x 1" F.H. wo

S TOP
COUNTRY

33"

12

CC

34"
Page 9 of 13

37"

GG

"

 x 7 xM96" Oak, cherry, or M

knotty pine (5.3 bd. M
ft.)
K
L
F E
*G
C
C
C
*H
*H *H *H
D

x 7 x 96" Oak, cherry, or knotty pine (5.3 bd. ft.)

*Plane Aor resaw to the thicknesses listed in the Materials List.
* I

Add a country top

x 3
96" Oak, cherry, or knotty pine (2.7 bd. ft.)
A xthe
1 Cut
plywood top panel (S) to size.
Then,
thecherry,
frontorQand
side
(CC,
R bands
R
Q xmiter-cut
P Oak,
48 x 96"
knotty-pine
plywood
DD)
to
length
to
fit
the
panel,
where
shown

x
5
x
96"
Oak,
cherry,
or
knotty
pine
(4
bd.
ft.)
A N
on Drawings 10 and 10a. Now, glue and
the bands to the
panel.
O
Bclamp
M
M
M
2 PFrom "-thick knotty pine, cut a 272"
Cworkpiece
to form the front and side caps (EE,
J
C chamfer along
C an edge of
DFF).
QCThen, rout a "
the workpiece, where shown. Miter-cut the
R Ato length to fit on top of the bands (CC,
Ecaps
S
FDD). Now, glue and clamp the caps in place,
keeping
their back edge flush with the bands
G T A
backface.
x 48 x 96" Oak, cherry, or knotty-pine plywood
front
andor knotty-pine
side crown
molding
x 48 xthe
96" Oak,
cherry,
plywood
UCut
H3
(GG,
HH)
to
the
lengths
listed.
(We
used
V
I architectural pine wood molding no. WM54,
at home centers.) Then, glue the
W
Javailable
molding
to
the bands (CC, DD) and caps (EE,
X
KFF), Jwhere shown.
L

A
Cutting
Diagram

Cutting Diagram

xB 48 x 96" Oak, cherry, or knotty-pine plywood N

x 48 x 48" Birch plywood
x 7 x 96" Oak, cherry, or knotty pine (5.3 bd. ft.)
K
L
F E
*G
*H
*H *H *H
D
J x 96" Oak, cherry, or knotty pine (5.3 bd. ft.)
x 7
*Plane or resaw to the thicknesses listed in the Materials List.
* I

R R
Q
Q
P
x 5 x 96" Oak, cherry, or knotty pine (4 bd. ft.)
x 48 x 96" Oak, cherry, or knotty-pine plywood

Cutting Diagram
M

Shaker top Cutting

Diagram
N

C
C
B
N
xA7 x 96" Oak, cherry, or knottyBBpine (5.3 bd. ft.)
AA
K
L
F E
*G
x 3 x 96" Cherry
(2.7 bd. ft.)
*
*H *H *H
DA
Traditional top CuttingH Diagram
x 7 x 96" Oak, cherry, or knotty pine (5.3 bd. ft.)
x 48or
x 96"
Oak,
or knotty-pine
*Plane
resaw
to cherry,
the thicknesses
listed plywood
in the Materials List.
* I
Traditional Top
*x Y3 x 96"
* Z or knotty pine (2.7
* Xbd. ft.)
T Oak, cherry,
Birch plywood Q
R RW
Q x 24 x 48"
Shaker
topPCutting Diagram
J
x 5 x 96" Oak, cherry, or knotty pine (4 bd.Vft.)
x 9 x 96" Oak (6.7 bd. ft.)
U

Shaker
Top
M top
Country
CuttingMDiagram
BB

x 48 x 48" B

Co

x 5 x 96" Knotty pine (4 bd. ft.)

A
HH
GG

plywood
xxx24
2xx x48"
72"Birch
Pinecherry,
crown or
molding

48
96"
Oak,
knotty-pine plywood
FILENAME:154BookcaseCD.eps
Date: 10-03
Lorna
J.
Country
top Cutting Diagram
S
Traditional
top Cutting Diagram
J

x 24 x 48" Birch plywood

* YCC

EE

* ZDD

FF

x 5 x 96" Knotty pine (4 bd. ft.)

*X

HH
V
GG
48 xx 96"
96" Oak
Oak,(6.7
cherry,
or knotty-pine
plywood
xx9
bd. ft.)
U
x 2 x 72" Pine crown molding

Produced
by Marlen
B Kemmet
N
U
Written by Owen
x Duvall
7 x 96"with
Oak,Chuck
cherry, Hedlund
or knotty pine (5.3 bd. ft.)
V
FILENAME:154BookcaseCD.eps
I
K
L
Date:Project
10-03 design: Jeff Mertz F E *
design: Design by Antje G
Lorna
J.W
J Graphic
*H
*H *H *H
D
Illustrations: Roxanne
LeMoine
L

S
O

AA

C
x 3 x 96" Cherry (2.7
C
C bd. ft.)
S
Country
Top
x 48 x 96" Oak, cherry, or knotty-pine
plywood
FF
EEplywood DD
xA24 xCC48" Birch

x 48 x 48" B

x 3 x 96" Oak, cherry, or knotty pine (2.7 bd. ft.)

Finish
up
Z
M1 Sand any areas that need it with 220-grit
Traditional top Cutting Diagram
sandpaper, and remove the dust.
2 Finish the bookcase as you wish. For the
A traditional
N x 48 x 96"bookcase,

Oak, cherry,we
or knotty-pine
applied plywood
ZAR Oil-Based
*no.
*
Stain
114
Provincial
and
two
of
* coats
Z
Y
T
X
B O
AquaZAR Water-Based Clear Satin Polyurethane,
W
P
C sanding
to 320 grit between coats.
V
the
bookcase,
we omitted
x 9
x 96"Shaker
Oak (6.7 bd.
ft.)
U
D QFor
a stain and applied two coats of DEFT Satin
R
E Lacquer
Clear Wood Finish, sanding to 320
grit
S between coats.
F
For the
country bookcase, we first applied
S
G Minwax
T
Pre-Stain
WoodDiagram
Conditioner to help
Traditional top Cutting
the
knotty
pine
absorb
the
stain evenly. (We
H U x 24 x 48" Birch plywood
kept the wood wet until it stopped soaking in
V
I the conditioner before wiping off the excess.)
*Y
*X
Z
Then,
weT applied * Minwax
Oil-Based
Wood
J W
Finish, no. 218 Puritan Pine. After Wthe stain
X
K dried, we finished with two coats ofV Minwax
A Nx 9 x 96" Oak (6.7 bd. ft.)
FILENAME:154BookcaseCD.eps
Y
Fast-Drying
Polyurethane, Usanding to 220 grit
10-03 coats.
LDate:
between
B
Lorna
ZO J.
M 3 Finally, install the sleeves (beveled end in
P
C first)
for the paddle supports in all of the holes
sides (A). Then, with your helper, place
D in Qthe S
the bookcase where you wish, and install the
R
E paddle
and
shelves (M/N). Now,
x 24 x supports
48" Birch
plywood
Cutting
Diagram
start
S filling this lofty library with your favorite
F
books.
N
G

Cou
S

x 24 x 48" Birch plywood

x 7 x 96" Oak, cherry, or knotty pine (5.3 bd. ft.)
x 24
S x 48" Birch plywood
*Plane or resaw to the thicknesses listed in the Materials List.
* I
O

x 3 x 96" Oak, cherry, or knotty pine (2.7 bd. ft.)

R R
Q
Q
P
x 5 x 96" Oak, cherry, or knotty pine (4 bd. ft.)
M

Traditional top Cutting Diagram

x 48 x 48" Birch plywood

FILENAME:154BookcaseCD.eps
Date: 10-03
*
*Z
T
Lorna J. Y

Page 10 of 13
*X

W
V

Materials List
FINISHED SIZE

Case

Matl.

Qty*.

sides

"

11"

71"

CP

front stiles

1"

1"

71"

CL

top, fixed shelf,

and bottom

"

11"

31"

CP

top front rail

"

31"

CS

fixed-shelf

"

2"

31"

CS

front rail
F

bottom front rail

"

"

31"

CS

top side rails

"

3"

10"

CS

middle and
bottom side rails

"

4"

10"

CS

back stiles

"

1"

71"

CS

back

"

32"

71"

CP

upper fillers

"

"

CS

lower fillers

"

"

26"

CS

adjustable
shelves

"

10"

31"

CP

shelf trim

"

1"

31"

CS

bottom panel

"

12"

33"

BP

P*

front trim

"

5"

34"

CS

Q*

side trim

"

5"

13"

CS

corner blocks

"

4"

6"

CS

Base
Base

Traditional
top Top
Traditional
S

top panel

"

12"

33"

BP

front edging

"

"

34"

side edging

"

"

13"

band blank

"

2"

72"

cap blank

"

1"

72"

X*

cove blank

"

"

72"

*Parts initially cut oversize.

See the instructions.
For traditional and Shaker
bookcases, width of part D
is 3". For country bookcase,
width of part D is 4".
For traditional and Shaker
bookcases, length of part K is
39". For country bookcase,
length of part K is 38".
Materials key: CPchoose
plywood species, CLchoose
laminated solid stock species,
CSchoose solid stock
species, BPbirch plywood,
Ooak, Ccherry, KPknotty
pine, Ppine. For items CP,
CL, and CS, use oak for the
traditional bookcase, cherry
for the Shaker bookcase, and
knotty pine for the country
bookcase.
Supplies: Spray adhesive;
#6", #81", and #81"
flathead wood screws; #20
biscuits.
Blades and bits: Dado-blade
set, 1964" brad-point drill bit. For
the country bookcase: chamfer
router bit. For the Shaker
bookcase: " round-over
router bit. For the traditional
bookcase: chamfer, " and "
cove router bits.

Sources

Hardware. Brass paddle

supports, no. 63Z06.04,
package of 20 (1 package);
brass sleeves, no. 63Z06.06,
package of 20 (5 packages).
Call Lee Valley 800/871-8158,
or go to www.leevalley.com.
Drill bit. 1964" brad-point drill
bit, no. 07J02.19. Lee Valley
phone and Web address
above.

continued on next page

Page 11 of 13

Y*

front
dentil molding

"

"

31"

Z*

side
dentil molding

"

"

10"

Shaker top
S

top panel

"

12"

33"

BP

AA

front edging

"

2"

37"

BB

side edging

"

2"

15"

C Country
top
Top
S

top panel

"

12"

33"

BP

CC

front band

"

2"

34"

KP

DD

side bands

"

2"

13"

KP

EE*

front cap

"

2"

38"

KP

FF*

side caps

"

2"

15"

KP

GG

front crown
molding

"

2"

37"

HH

side crown
molding

"

2"

14"

The purchase of these plans does not

transfer any copyright or other ownership
interest in the plans, the design or the
finished project to the buyer. Buyer may
neither reproduce the plans for sale not offer
for sale any copies of the finished project.

Page 12 of 13

" chamfer along top edge of part P

" chamfer along top edge of part P

Join pattern here.

From here, part D extends 1",

and part P extends 3".
From here, part D extends 1",
and part P extends 3".
TOP

Join pattern here.

FRONT RAIL D /BASE FRONT TRIM P

FULL-SIZE PARTIAL
PATTERN
TOP FRONT
RAIL D /BASE
FRONT TRIM P
FOR COUNTRY
BOOKCASE
FULL-SIZE(4PARTIAL
PATTERN
needed)
FOR COUNTRY BOOKCASE
(4 needed)

To ensure full-size patterns are correct

size, your printer should be set to print
at 100% (not fit to page). Measure
full-size patterns to verify size.

1"

" chamfer along top edge of part P

" chamfer along top edge of part P
Join pattern here.
Align with center of parts D and P .

Join pattern here.

Align with center of parts D and P .

/P

/P

Page 13 of 13

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