In my wake

Index

Atlantic Ocean

North Atlantic

Life, a second chance – Leaving home port 10

Through the South Downs, Dover strait,

English channel, Iberian Basin to Islas Canaries

Enjoying the [moving] scenery 41

My time in the Fortunate Isles (Canary Islands)

A straight run south 54

Islas Canaries to the Arquipelago to de Cabo Verde

Creole times 59

My time in the Cabo Verde’s

South Atlantic

Cabo Verde's to Cape Town 62

Passage from Cabo Verde’s to Cape Town

Plan ‘B‘ 79

When plan ‘A’ goes belly up there’s only one thing

you can do, switch to plan ‘B’

 United Nations – ONUCI 87

My time in Abidjan, Ivory Coast

Back at sea 103

The Gulf of Guinea to Ascension Island

Saint’s 116

My time in Ascension Island

Chasing down the sun 135

Ascension to Brazil (Recife)

Let’s party 147

A ‘gay’ time in Brazil

Difficult decision 156

Brazil to Trinidad

Caribbean Sea (West Indies)

Liming 170

My time in Trinidad & Tobago W.I.

Broken dreams! 207

Family and friends fly out to Trinidad

 Windward Islands 238

Grenada, Carriacou, Union Island, Bequia, St Vincent,

Martinique, St Lucia, Dominica, Gualdeloupe, Antigua

Leeward Islands 277

St Kitts & Nevis, St Maartin, Antigua

Liming in the Caribbean 286

Unplanned company

Trinidad revisited 291

Getting ready for Panama

Power of the sea 301

Columbian Basin to Casablanca (Panama)

Casablanca 310

My time in Panama

Pacific Ocean

South Pacific

Kindness repaid 321

Balboa to the Las Perlas Islands

To the Enchanted Isles 326

Across the Gulf of Panama to the Archipelago De Colon

and the Galapagos Islands

Darwin’s world 347

My time in the Galapagos Islands

Down to the wire 354

Galapagos heading west

The long haul 381

Course change, Tahiti here I come

Hevea Nui 401

My time in Papeete

Society Islands 416

Tahiti - Moorea – Huahinee - Raiatea - Bora Bora

Society Islands to the Cook Islands 425

Bora Bora to Suwarrow

Island time 432

Chilling in Suwarrow
 Cook Islands to the Friendly Islands 440

Leaving paradise - Suwarrow to Tonga

Friendly Islands 449

Kava time, my time in Tonga

Rumours and uncharted waters 459

Tong to Fiji

The World In Union 466

My time in Fiji and the rugby World Cup

Weather on my side 487

Fiji to New Zealand

Aotearoa 503

My time in New Zealand

Sailing Bye 513

Sailing around New Zealand

Tasman Sea

If there’s a heaven then this was hell! 562

The passage from Opua, New Zealand across

the Tasman Sea to Brisbane, Australia

 Coral Sea

Far side of the world, unexpected problems 590

My time in Australia

Sailing bye once more 611

Sailing around Australia

My past or my destiny! 640

Worrying times

Fitness for service 649

Cairns through the Great Barrier Reef, across

the Endeavour Strait and the Arafura Sea to Darwin

Indian Ocean

Timor Sea

Something’s changed 666

The passage to Darwin, a reflection

Arabian Sea

Back to the Trade’s, Déjà vu 673

Darwin, into the Indian Ocean Déjà vu or memories

of times gone by revisited

 Pit stop - The Port Of Aden (Yemen) 767

My time in Aden

Red Sea

Back to Sea 769

Across the Red Sea to Suez (Egypt)

Heading north 796

Pit stop in Suez and transiting the Suez Canal

Mediterranean Sea

Back to the land of easy parts (Europe) 800

Port Sa’id (Egypt) to Manoel Island (Malta)

A city built by gentlemen for gentlemen 822

My time in Malta

Chasing down the sun once more 861

Leaving Malta heading west

Sail-less in Gibraltar 883

Forget sleepless in Seattle, I’m sail-less in Gibraltar

My time in Gibraltar
Atlantic Ocean

North Atlantic

Atlantic bound 891

Gibraltar to Spain

Portuguese by name 896

Pinta

Heading north once more 899

Portugal to Spain

Friends reunited 904

My time in Spain

Familiar waters 906

Spain, the Bay of Biscay and into the English Channel

A circumnavigation 916

Pinta sailing into her homeport

 Life, a second chance – Leaving home port

Through the South Downs, Dover strait,

English channel, Iberian Basin to Islas Canaries.

It was a grey, wet, murky day in the English channel as we said our

goodbyes to friends and family. Casting off Pinta’s bow and stern lines,

gingerly making our way out of the harbour before setting sail like many a

sailing vessel before her, Pinta set a course for the downs 1 and the open sea.

SV Pinta

Passage day 1

Monday 25th July 2005

20:15hrs (GMT) position 51o19’804N 01o25’247E

After an emotional goodbye from friends and family we made good

progress. Rain with south-west winds force2 5-6 with a lumpy 2 metre

running. Covered 69.69Nm3 as we pass the Royal Sovereign light.

That was the day I set off to live my dream, a dream to sail upon the Oceans

of our world. I had sold all my belongings, my car, my home; indeed I had

given away all its contents to those who needed such items for I would have

little use for them where I was going.

I could not believe how emotional I was feeling, some twelve hours fifty-

five minutes previously Pinta was secured alongside, myself and Peter

(known as woody to his friends) were having our breakfast. Now as we pass

the Royal Sovereign light, I lay in my bunk thinking of those I had left

behind a short while ago. It was the second most emotional day of my life.

1 The Downs - an area off the coast of Ramsgate, and between Ramsgate and Deal.

2Force - often written Beaufort wind scale / force was devised by a British Rear-Admiral, Sir Francis ( in
1805 based on observations of the effects of the wind.

3 Nm - Nautical mile equals 1.151 statute mile.

There were times, many years ago that I thought this day would have

seemed impossible.

The year was 1969; I was aged nine when I started having problems with

my knees, many visits to see specialists followed. Years of blood tests, years

of physiotherapy trying to build up leg muscle as well as heat and ultrasonic

treatment followed. To be honest I really think they had no idea what the

problem was. A few years later aged eleven they diagnosed it as ’growing

pains’, saying I would soon grow out of it!

To me it was important, I was unable to participate in P.E. (Physical

Education) which, although I did not enjoy the indoor aspect I did love the

outdoors, to be more precise, football. Like many boys at that age I loved

football. I was a proud wearer of the number eleven shirt as that worn by

George Best. In reality, if not during the game then afterwards I would be in

so much pain I would often be carried off the pitch. This went on for several

years and eventually seem to disappear; perhaps the doctors where right, I

had grown out of it.

A nudge on my shoulder, it was my turn to be on watch.

Passage day 2

Tuesday 26th July 2005

22:00hrs (GMT) position 49o51’0.09N 02o14’46.84W

Becalmed4 off Eastbourne all night although we managed to make good

progress across the channel during the early morning before once again

becoming becalmed this time off Alderney. Weather remaining wet (rain)

with variable winds 15–24kts (gusting 30kts). Sea state, lumpy with 2.5

metre swell, covered 119Nm today.

Time to turn in once more, I was by now really looking forward to hitting

my bunk.

1989, I had just started work back in the Merchant Navy on the local ferry

service between Dover and Calais, nine months later the pain in my legs

returned. My local doctor refereed me to the Dreadnought5 Merchant Navy

medical department now located within St Thomas’s hospital (London). By

1990 it was becoming clear that I would soon have to leave the navy, as I

was unable to carry out my duties indeed I was advised by my doctor that I

could possible be in a wheel chair by the time I was thirty-one. Onboard

ship it had become embarrassing by now, an example would be when going

down below decks, i.e. down the stairs I would gradually build up speed,

unable to stop until ending up in a pile on the deck below. Another would be

when working topside on deck, I would be fine for consciously or not I could

see the waves, my brain would be able to know what to do to stay on my feet

however once again when down below I could not do this and therefore as

4 Becalmed - nautical expression meaning no wind, often used as a slang word meaning the length of
stay in one place.

5Dreadnought Unit - a continuation of a tradition of special hospital care for seafarers dating from 1821.
The Seamenʼs Hospital Society originally established a hospital on a ship moored at Greenwich and in
1870 it came ashore to the banks of the Thames at Greenwich.  In 1986 it moved again to St Thomasʼ
Hospital.
soon as the ship moved I would end up once again a heap on the deck. As

you can imagine, this did not inspire confidence in the passengers so it was

that in late 1991 I was medically discharged from the Merchant Navy.

Shortly thereafter my wife and I decided that I should stay at home to look

after our children while she returned to nursing. I became part of the 1990’s

trend, that of becoming a househusband. This was probably the most single

hardest thing I had ever had to do in my life but I am proud to say I feel I

made a good job of it, I recall a comment when the then mother in-law how

I should be proud of the way the children are turned out, you know, clean

[and ironed] clothes etc.

In none medical terms my right knee was facing outwards, very much like a

car’s wheel when the tracking is out. The problem started to get worse, it

was now affecting my ability to stand or even walk, I was now officially

classified as disabled. Often unable to walk from the house to the car parked

on the driveway.

The pain was so intense that it was also affect my sleep, I would be shaking

with pain. I would often be in so much pain that I would go downstairs,

albeit very gingerly, the stairs were also becoming very difficult. I often

found myself just lying around watching daytime TV. After a short while, I

am sad to say I was becoming an expert on TV.

Its amazing how time passes bye when your asleep, its was not long before

it was my turn to be on watch once more.

Passage day 3

Wednesday 27th July 2005

00:01hrs (GMT) position 49o39’978N 02o56’567W

What a day; rain, rain and yet more rain although the sun did pay us a visit

for a while.

Downtime as woody takes over, I lay on my bunk chilling out for an hour or

two.

My doctor, I must say was brilliant he would always try the latest drugs to

remove the pain I was in, but to no avail and by mid 1994 I was on a very

high doses of Morphine. Although for short periods of time I was in no pain

the side effect soon started to build up as my body became used to the drug.

I would often have the effects of going cold turkey as the current dose I had

in my system started diminishing as my body needed more. This left me

having hot and cold sweets and some terrible shakes, my whole body

shaking until the new dose took effect. I soon realised that I needed to keep

my mind active otherwise depression was not far away. I started an evening

class studying a City and Guild course in Amateur Radio; I had been

interested in radio since I can remember. One moment I particularly recall,

it was just after Neil Armstrong and Buzz Aldrin had walked on the moon.

My mother found me and my younger brother playing with an old MOD 6

radio (an old Navy radio set called B40), we had converted our bedroom

into a space ship, the radio being the main console with the two of us

6 MOD - UK Ministry of Defence.

pretending to be astronauts. It is a shame sometimes that we have to grow

up for those, like it is for most of us were our carefree years.

Back to the Amateur Radio, some ten months later I successfully passed the

course and obtained the Amateur Radio ‘B’ class licence and was issued

with the call sign ‘G7PDB’. Several years later and after two attempts, I

passed the Morse code examination gaining my Amateur Radio ‘A’ class

licence with the call sign ‘G0WVA’.

Shake a leg, I had fell asleep. Instead of an hour I slept all of my ‘off’ watch

time.

Passage day 4

Thursday 28th July 2005

20:30hrs GMT position 48o50’38.4N 04o10’1.14W

Well another interesting day, rain! Weather, wind force 5-7 then 6-7, later

7-8. Current location off Roscoff – France, covered 129NM today in some

very difficult conditions.

It was one of those memorable days, the seas had been building all day. I

went below decks to make a cuppa, looking back topsides all I could see

was this really nice wave rolling towards us. Crew comment of the day,

“Big wave, Bloody big wave”, oh the look of terror on his face it was

another one of those Kodak moments. That classic photograph that would

stay forever with you, that’s if you had your camera with you.
Day 5

Friday 29th July 2005

16:30hrs (GMT) position 48o10’720N 05o52’694W

A very frustrating day trying to get around the headland and into the Bay of

Biscay, the wind was coming from the south-west force 4-5 at an angle it

made it difficult to make headway 7. Covered 100Nm today. Shooting star at

location 48o10’720N 05o52’694W the first of the trip and what a stunner

streaking right across the sky going from stern to bow8.

Day 6

Saturday 30th July 2005

19:35hrs (GMT) position 46o31’824N 06o58’221W

Wow what a day! A third of the way across the bay and we spotted around

sixty porpoises at position 46o31’824N 006o58’221W at 12:07hrs (GMT).

Covered 80Nm today; the weather is clear with force 4-5 south-west winds.

Hand steering is starting to take its toll, we are appreciating our down time

more and more.

A few years later, I was approached by the I.T. teacher at Adam’s (my eldest

son) primary school asking if I could help with a computer problem they

had. Apparently Adam had mentioned to them that I could fix computers. A

short time later I was attending the school weekly, firstly I started taking

one or two children and helping them with their I.T. lessons, this rapidly

grew to taking a class at a time. I enjoyed the time at the school very much

7 Headway - the forward motion of a vessel.

8 Stern - the back of a vessel, the bow being the front.

and it was with great sadness that I had to give this up three years later. All

the time I was helping out at the school my illness was not getting any

better. I had to stop doing all the things I liked to do before hand, now I just

lay around indoors. Even walking around the house or going up and down

the stairs had become so painful. The worst of was shopping, this had

become my biggest nightmare. Although I held a disabled persons parking

permit using it would often cause me the most embarrassment.

Most supermarkets have disable parking close to the entrance to make it

easier for disabled people to get to and from the shop. The looks and

comments I received from other disabled people when I used to park there

are still vividly remembered. To them you see my disability was not ‘on

show’ as I called it, I was not in a wheel chair (I declined this several

times). Once in the store the next problem began, the average person cannot

comprehend the weight and strain of pushing a shopping trolley around the

supermarket. Once the shopping was completed and all put away it would

take me a day or so for the pain generated from doing the shopping to go

away. Unable to sleep the pain so intense I would be shaking all night.

Time for the morning watch but not before cooking breakfast and clearing

up.

Passage day 7

Sunday 31st July 2005

17:10hrs (GMT) position 45o19’884N 008o11’352W

Another wow day as we spotted [far too many] whales to count, blow

wholes everywhere. Six came back out four of which carried on however

two came within twenty metres, beautiful. Absolutely beautiful, how anyone

can hurt these creatures after all they were on this planet before us.

Total battery failure during the night due to the first five days being wet,

foggy or overcast. The solar panels were unable to charge the batteries

enough, turned off all unnecessary systems. We covered only 80Nm today,

weather was warm and sunny although only force three winds.

Its now 07:45hrs as I wake woody for his watch, being a little tired I turned

in for an hour at 08:15hrs.

By now the year was 1997 and a change of professor at the hospital gave

me a glimmer of hope, Professor Fred Heatley9, one of the best surgeons in

the Country (UK) for Orthopaedics. After several examinations over many

months he finally came out with what I have wanted to hear for years. Mr

Townsend he said, “I might be able to help you”. He had come across a

similar situation when a police motorbike rider had an accident. He

managed to help him, for the first time I left the hospital with real hope in

my heart. Two weeks later at our next meeting the professor said “he had

practised on a leg of lamb and a broomstick” and thinks he can fix my

problem. Inside he must have laughed when he saw my face about that

comment, I know I still do to this very day.

Several months went by until the day had arrived for the operation. I had

taken the train from Ramsgate to Tower Bridge (London), the hospital was

9 Professor Heatly - Now renowned for his work in Polo and travels around the world lecturing.
only a short walk away from the station. My wife had offered to give me a

lift but as things were not going to well at home I thought better of it and

said I would do this myself. St Thomas hospital is a modern hospital, the

Dreadnought unit consisted of two wards housed in the older Victorian

section which formed part of the old hospital but connected to the modern

area. The ceilings were high and the wards long. As I walked onto the ward

the professor was on his rounds, he noticed me and from the top of his voice

said, “Do not worry Mr Townsend I have had another practice with a leg of

lamb and a broomstick”. Laughter went around the ward as well as a few

puzzled faces. Later that night a ‘nil by mouth’ sign was placed above my

bed. To say I was worried was an understatement for this was would the

first operation I have ever undergone, my boys were miles away. Once

settled in I started to get to know my fellow patient.

The day of the operation came, my mind was ticking over with thoughts

about what was to follow. I was soon being pushed around the old part of

the hospital, into several lifts before entering the newer section, another few

lifts, along a corridor leading to the theatre. A few hours later I awoke in

recovery ward, although very groggy I heard a distant voice say, “If you feel

any pain push the red button it will release a small dose of painkiller” as my

hand was guided towards it.

I can tell you, I was pushing that big red button until it nearly broke for the

pain suddenly released throughout my body was like nothing I had ever felt

before. It was as someone was sawing off my leg, there and then. To me it

appeared that the drugs were having little if no effect at all in overcoming

the pain, somehow I drifted back to sleep.

I awoke sometime later to find myself back on the ward I had departed

hours before. I looked around then noticed something strange, my right foot

was laying 90 degrees to the left, indeed lying under my left foot! Had they

turned my leg around too far, was I dreaming? Later I was reassured that

during the operation once they had cut through the bone the right leg ‘just

fell’ to the right angle, 33 degrees! That night proved to be very difficult for

me, the doctors had not taken in to consideration that after spending so long

on Morphine my body was unaffected by the low levels I was now on. An

expression used often would be ‘cold turkey’, my body was in unbelievable

pain. I just lay there shaking all over, sweating, and constantly moving every

part of my body. After several hours, the nurses managed to get hold of a

doctor who increased the morphine levels. I was fine a few hours later.

Passage day 8

Monday 1st August 2005

22:45hrs (GMT) position 44o20’700N 009o15’317W

Made little progress today due to light winds and from the south-west, the

direction we need to go. Only 91.08Nm covered still that’s a total of

1,006.31Nm so far and in only seven days.

Barometer10 1024mb, steady

Temperature 24.7oC

10 Barometer - a device for measuring atmospheric pressure, usually calibrated in millibars.

The day started well, glorious sunshine. More whales sighted today

although 300 metres away. Later woody started designing his vampire from

a Goth book he has. Afternoon quote from woody “I feel like getting my

phone out and playing some games”.

I have been too busy keeping an eye on woody, I spend most of the night’s

awake and it’s starting to catch up on me now. He’s a really nice lad but

needs telling two or three times to do anything, he will always put things off

like when I gave him some seamanship books to read weeks, months ago.

He would rather read fantasy books instead. Prior to this voyage woody had

not previous sailing experience, we had agreement that I would teach him

sailing so long as he made an effort himself. I think he will have a shock one

day when the reality of life kicks in.

Midday and I am just sitting topside reflecting.

A few days after the operation I was ready to go home. My original plan

was to return the same way I arrived however they refused to release me

unless I was either picked up or arranged for a taxi. With great reluctance I

telephoned home to arrange a lift back. The reception on my return from my

boys was wonderful but from my wife a slighter cooler reaction (Cooler,

there were items in the fridge warmer!). As my leg was technically broken

and only being held together by two screws just below the hip joint I had to

be very careful how I walked so as not to bang the leg. At this point in time

walking up or down the stairs was impossible. Once my boys were in bed I

was left alone downstairs hopping along trying to rearrange furniture to

form some sort of bed. Forty minutes later I had managed to put to chairs

together and with managed to get a few hours sleep.

The following morning my wife took the boys to school and then to work

while remained at home to experience the latest craze at the time. The joy of

daytime television kept me company for a few weeks until I was able to

move around a little more. Several months later I was out walking [on my

crutches] in the park, it was a good time. Time spent with my boys was

always something special to me. As I walked, well waddling really my

youngest son, Billy said “chase me dad”, I keenly threw the crutches aside

and tried to run after my son, within six steps I has ran in a complete circle.

I obviously needed more practice at walking again.

Passage day 9

Tuesday 2nd August 2005

00:22hrs (GMT) position 42o58’452N 009o15’444W

At least we are now off the coast of Spain, spotted more porpoises along the

way. We managed to cover 77.6Nm today, not bad in very light winds of

around 6kts. Will try to get out into the Atlantic tonight. Battery problem

ongoing.

Becalmed again this morning, managed to get some sleep.

A year after the operation I was becoming more mobile, so much so that I

realised I would soon be able to return to work. I took the opportunity to

enrol on a computer hardware course at a nearby training centre that

specialise in retraining people who were looking for career changes. A few

months after completing the course I took up employment with a computer

company who were sub-contacted to work at Eurotunnel where I stayed for

six years.

Towards the later half of my time their my mother became ill. I took a few

days off and travelled up north to visit. The doctors at this time were unsure

of the cause of her condition and were running tests. Later during our stay

there it became apparent that she was terminally ill with liver failure. I was

telephoning home nightly.

During out stay we managed to arrange for her to be transferred to a

London hospital when she was stabilised enough to be moved. We all

returned home for a few days then just as I was going to leave home to visit

her in London I received a telephone call from my mother in-law, who to be

honest and mother in-law jokes aside I had always got on well with so what

followed took me so much by surprise I was almost speechless when she

said “why did I had to leave, didn’t I realise I had a family to look after as

well, I thought you said your mother was dying and that she only had days

left. That was last week!”

Stunned I said “I am sorry, my mother is a tough women and was holding

on to life by a thread”. I really should have said more but I was so taken

back, yep, even to this day I am speechless when I recall that conversation!

Whilst we (my brother, sister and I) were attending to our mother in hospital

we were given the chance to care for her during her last few hours. I was

taking a break outside in the corridor just around the corner from her room

when my wife arrived. She advised me that she wanted a divorce. There was
little I could say, I wanted to say “girl – your timing sucks” but I did not, I

wanted to be with my mother for the last time. She passed away that

evening.

Back home the only comfort received were from my boys. After the funeral

service everybody came back to our house for the wake. As one could expect

I was not fully functioning, running on autopilot really, my wife all though

putting on a show as being a good hostess did little else. I sat there,

subdued.

The following day she asked me to move out. The weeks went by as the

situation between us deteriorated. She advised me that she had started

looking for somewhere else to live and that I could keep the house. She

would move out taking the children with her. My reply was no, they should

stay there the last thing the children wanted during this time was to live

somewhere strange. Let them stay in their home, sleep in their own beds I

thought to myself. I would like to think my motives were wholesome and

pure but I cannot, deep down and although when she had said when asking

for the divorce she said there was know one else, I knew there was. Why

should my children go live elsewhere, they should stay there. Selfish view

perhaps but I meant well.

Time soon passes at sea and it is not long before I am on watch once more.

Passage day 10

Wednesday 3rd August 2005

00:15hrs (GMT) position 41o33’603N 011o14’899W

LOG WRITEN UP 00:15HRS GTM ON 4TH AUGUST

Nearly lost Pinta tonight 108Nm off Portugal. Sailing mode out, survival

mode in. What a difference a day makes as a stormed developed, it started

with winds force five gusting six then developed force 8–9 (40kts). Nearly

turned us over a few times, although I did not want to panic woody I

thought, this was it!

Had some near misses so decided to drop the hanky of a Genoa and deploy

the sea anchor11. Deployed at 00:15hrs (GMT) on the 4th August. In all we

drifted some 13Nm under the sea anchor. It saved our lives! The wind was

not the problem, the sea was. Here off the Portugal end of The Bay of

Biscay, it has well deserved reputation as the sea rolls in from the Atlantic

hitting the continental shelve. This can cause unusual waves and in our case

we had eight metre waves coming on our Port and Starboard 12 sides with

what seamed like fifteen metre or more waves coming over our stern, in

reality they were only around ten metres. To start with, it was not too much

of a problem, I set the sails accordingly, and we stayed ahead of them.

In these confused sea’s we soon found ourselves being ‘kissed’ by the waves

as the waves appeared to becoming from all sides. The result, Pinta would

be lifted us up some five metres or so then as suddenly as they came

through the waves disappeared leaving us to drop not only the five metres or

so we had just gained in height but another good five metres or so into the

11Sea anchor - they come in may styles but basically a parachute style device deployed at the front of a
vessel to help keep her bowʼs into the waves.

12 In the earliest ships there was no rudder and the ship was steered by a "Steerboard" (large car or
sweep) sited over the right-hand side of the stern; hence that side of the ship became known as the
Starboard side. The other side of the ship was in consequence used for going alongside for embarking
or disembarking cargo through the 'loed-ports'; the left hand side of the ship therefore became known as
the "Loadboard" side, the "Larboard". As the use of this latter word inevitably caused confusion with the
word Starboard, the word Port came to be used instead.
trough13 ! An almighty bang as Pinta with her beamy bottom found sea once

more among the trough of the weaves, then as suddenly as we landed Pinta

was lifted once more, repeated time and time again.

As the sun started to set the larger waves running at our stern started to

break, collapsing closer and closer to our stern. At first this was not a

problem as we could out run them however that did not last too long. Pinta

was loosing this particular race as the waves came one after another,

catching us. So much so that by 21:00hrs (GMT) it was getting a little too

interesting for the waves were now not so friendly with a following sea

developing. I found my feet were more often more under water. Pinta sailing

down the crest of a wave, holding on to the steering wheel I found myself

leaning backwards [about 45 degrees] to remain upright. Shortly they

became friendly once more this time however Pinta was being pooped14. I

woke woody, ordering him topside, lifejacket on, harness on and clipped on.

Had he remained below in his cabin and we were pooped and turned, I

doubt if he would have ever made it out should the worse-case scenario

happen.

The situation carried on degenerating, with winds now gusting 40kts, after

nearly being pooped three times in a row then the bow starting to dig into

the waves ahead of her, I decided enough was enough for if this carried on I

could see us loosing Pinta. I could think of no other few words to describe

the way I was thinking than those taken from the ‘Hornblower’ book – ‘Mr

Midshipman’. “It was a black moment; he looked around at the unfriendly

13Trough - the section which lies below the undisturbed position is called the trough. Basically the
opposite of the crest.

14 Pooped - when waves start to break over the stern or back of a vessel.
sea for inspiration and support, and found neither” My thoughts were;

‘Sailing mode out, Survival mode in.

I sent woody forward with the sea anchor line so to pass it out though the

Port fairlead15 but not deploying it, the line then fed back into the cockpit ,

around the Port aft cleat then passed around the Port cockpit main winch. In

these conditions the less time, you spend outside the cockpit the better. The

sea anchor was now set up so we could deploy it from within the cockpit

when needed. Twenty minutes passed, we dropped the sails and deployed

the sea anchor letting out around five times the vessels length, i.e. fifty

metres. The effect was immediately felt as Pinta stabilised dramatically

compared to before the deployment as she started drifting with the sea’s,

which, for most of the time we found ourselves moving along at the same

pace as the waves.

Passage day 11

Thursday 4th August 2005

23:05hrs (GMT) position 40o20’618N 010o35’762W

Recovered the sea anchor at 07:51hrs only to find it ripped to shreds, totally

useless. A little sea swell today, force five with the wind still from the south-

west decreasing force 3. A slow but productive sail covering 100Nm.

Barometer 1015mb

The day after the night before although how my arms do ache, tired from all

15 Fairlead - a fitting used to alter the direction of a line.

that steering yesterday. Reflecting on the state of the sea anchor reminds one

as to the power of nature. I do not believe in a god as such although I do

believe there is something, someone, a somebody. All I know that if such a

thing exists they were looking after us last night. Trying to get back to

normal today, what ever that may be it’s a struggle. Still only getting an

average of three hours sleep in 24 hour period for I have to keep an eye on

woody, you know he’s a really nice guy but not grown up in the real world

yet I think. Silly things like opening a can of corned beef, using two thirds

of it then placing the open tin in the fridge. Ouch!

We are now well in to the watch system, everyday blends into another. I lay

below listening to music.

I found a house, well a bungalow really and not too far away but far

enough, after I moved in my boys visited me regularly although at this time

in my life when one should have money I did not, I lived sparsely for a

while. I felt sorry for my boy’s for I could not furnish the house, as I would

like. It would take time. I had been ill for many years and having only

recently returned to work it would take a while to build up my bank account.

Shortly after moving in I received a letter from my wife’s solicitors stating

the grounds for the divorce, I was livid. “Neglect through time spent on a

computer”, I thought you silly cow, what could you mean by that. I was

retraining, retraining so I could go back to work! I am normally by nature a

very placed person, nothing rattles for life is far too short. I share John

Milton’s16 view "Neither hate nor love thy life, but what thou lives, live well

16 John Milton - this quote originates from his book Paradise Lost, the eleventh book in his series of
religious argumentation.
however long or short may the heavens permit" and that I never allow the

sun to set on any disagreement. Awake, starting the day to be enjoyed.

After composing myself I wrote back;

Your Honour

I have been ill for many years, unable to walk more than a few paces,

unable to sleep through pain. This has put a great strain upon our

relationship. It must have been difficult for a wife to watch her husband

suffer so, shaking in pain, unable to relieve his suffering.

For this reason alone I ask you to grant her wish, let her have the freedom

and therefore the happiness she so seeks.

Yours

David Townsend

Sending the letter direct to her solicitor. I did not seek legal advice myself

for when I get married I did not, I did so out of love. No need for money

grabbing, sweet talking men (and ladies off course) in power suits to get

involved with affairs of ones heart. This deeply affected me for I am not

often in or out of love, consequently the next six years were a bit of blur. It is

very hard to stop loving your partner. If, heaven forbid they pass on your

love does not stop for them, it changes. In my circumstances when your

partner says they don’t love you any more adding “I only loved you for the

first two years of our marriage”, a marriage which until then had lasted
thirteen years. It hurts let me tell you, and yes in time I got over it however

in-between time I was lets just say a bit of a mess inside although I carried

on the best I could.

I throw myself into work, arriving a few hours earlier than I needed too,

leaving many hours after everybody else had left. This carried on for a few

years and had an unexpected side effect, I was promoted to the onsite

Technical Team Leader. As time went on I found I was spending more and

more time each day trying to keep on top of new technologies and less and

less time in the real world. I felt I needed a change not only from the work

environment but my health had stared to worry me, I had been getting some

pain in my left knee very similar to that which effected my right knees years

before. I felt that I had a small window of opportunity to do something, just

in case my medical problems should return. There are many people I admire

form the world of sailing, I took inspiration from a few words used as their

saying ‘Just do it’, so, I did. The decision was made.

After several [music] albums it was time to change over the watch.

Passage day 12

Friday 5th August 2005

10:55hrs (GMT) position 39o39’318N 009o57’509W

Drifting in light fog off the coast of Portugal, wind light and very cyclonic17.

To date we have covered 1,351.02Nm, an average of 122.82Nm per day or

17 Cyclonic - meaning that the wind is changing direction and strength in an unpredictable way.
5.12Nm per hour, not bad considering we have been becalmed for about 19

hours in total, then hove too18 during the storm.

Becalmed once again, I tried a little fishing but no luck. Weather is very hot

at around 35.4oC

Had to have a word with woody again today about the lack of interest in

carrying out his work list. Nothing heavy but we had six or so flies around

the galley. I said to woody what’s the best way of getting rid of these flies –

reply ‘put up some flypaper’! My thought was okay, where is the nearest

‘Tesco’ but instead I said “why don’t we just clean the mess up”. Woody

replied “okay, I’ll do it in the morning”. Once again I had to clean ship. Had

a chat with woody about it afterwards – let’s see what happens? We are now

off ‘Ericera’ at position 39o08’089N 010o12’189W, some 72.28Nm off shore

and drifting nicely, I turn in. Laying on my bunk my thoughts returned to

when I first started sailing.

I can still remember the very first day, I was 12 years of age, before that

time I had no previous sailing experiences although I had always loved

being by the sea, the sound of the waves breaking upon the shore, the peace

and tranquillity in that what I like to call ‘natures music’ gave to me. It was

during one of my cycle rides around my local harbour at Ramsgate that I

noticed a new arrival, an old wooden ship with a rather, well to me at that

age, this elderly man was working on the decking. I was fascinated by what

18 Hove too - when a headsail is backed and often under shortened mainsail, the rudder then being so
placed to point the bow (front) of the vessel towards the wind thus reducing the way through the water.
Often done in foul weather or to effect repairs onboard
he was doing, he was laying strands of Oakum 19, around 3cm in length into

the gap between the deck planking. Then coming slightly back over the lay

before then, laying half over that, half on its own. A metal tool, rather like a

large faced coal chisel was placed on top the strands, then struck with a

mallet. Once an area was completed, molten pitch was poured into the

grove.

This process gives the neat black rows you see on ships in between the

planking the purpose of which is to waterproof the deck. I later discover this

was called 'corking' and although at the time I did not know what it was I

would spend many years later in my life ‘corking’. After sometime watching

I approach him asking could I come aboard? He welcomed me and we

started talking, sometime later and quiet how it happened I cannot recall, it

was agreed that I could help working voluntary every Saturday. So every

Saturday morning I would cycle there and help out, trying to learning the

basic skills required, the art if you like of maintaining these beautiful

wooden sailing ships.

Once the deck was finished we started on the hull, working from a small

tender. Several weeks passed before I enquired whether the tender had a

mast and sails. To my surprise I was shown an old mast and some rather

dilapidated sails. That Monday after school, and with great enthusiasm I

visited the local library looking for a book about sailing, with this in hand I

ran home as quickly as I could and started to read. The following Saturday

when I had finished my mornings work I managed to step the mast and rig

19 Oakum - there are many variations of Oakum. Tarred oakum that is made by using the jute or hemp
fibres of old ropes, there is also white oakum. White oakum is created with the use of hemp fibres that
have not been woven into ropes and is not impregnated with the pine tar that was used in many
instances to make the oakum resistant to water and the elements.
the sails. With great anticipation I rechecked that my lifejacket was correctly

secured, stepped aboard, let go the painter20 and off I went! My first voyage

however did not go as planned for within several seconds the dinghy had

done a complete circle, I was back where I started. Several hours later and

more gybes than I can recall I was sailing like an old hand, well, sort off.

This inspired me to take up sailing and later that year when I started

secondary school I quickly enrolled in the school sailing club, throughout

the winter I learnt how to strip down, repair the schools Mirror dinghies

then, when the sailing season approached we took them down to the dinghy

park at the Broadstairs sailing club. The following Wednesday and indeed

every Wednesday thereafter I would catch a bus to Broadstairs, rig the

dinghies and sail or race around Viking Bay.

I also joined the local Sea Cadet Corps unit, this was a very good decision

for not only did I learn the theory of seamanship but also attending nearly

every sailing course going for the next five years. Sailing on a range of

vessels form dinghies to Tall Ships and clocking up some 4,000 Nautical

miles. Later I become a RYA dinghy instructor. I loved my time spent there,

we had a mixture of children from all backgrounds. My memories about this

time are some of the best I have.

While still in the Sea Cadet Corps aged 18 years old I actually thought the

opportunity to achieve my dream of sailing around the world had come to

fruition, A Tall Ship visited Ramsgate and was seeking crew, I eagerly

signed on and spent the next six months getting her ready. Alas, we only got

as far as Weymouth, but that’s a whole other story.

20 Painter - a rope used for a mooring, particularly on a dinghy.

Passage day 13

Saturday 6th August 2005

06:38hrs (GMT) position 39o08’075N 010o12’141W

Well, it’s a beautiful morning but once more becalmed making only 33Nm

since yesterday. Late afternoon around 200Nm off the Straight of Gibraltar

the wind picked up slightly, now moving slowly.

23:20hrs (GMT) position 38o39’511N 009o59’029W woken by Woody

trying to hoist the mainsail. Pinta surrounded by blanket fog I turned the

radar on as well as the engine (as a precaution). Later it developed into

another beautiful day, very warm 34.2oC but alas no wind. Becalmed 25Nm

off ‘Cascais’. Some very large dolphins past us today, they did not play

much though. Thinking of my family, my boys, brother, sister & father.

Guess I am a little subdued tonight.

Passage day 14

Sunday 7th August 2005

00:48hrs (GMT) position 38o31’696N 009o56’883W

Due to fog and the TSS21 being only a few miles away plus the amount of

traffic have the engine on tick over so to maintain steerage way. That was to

ensure should the very flaky winds decide to decrease further I would still

maintain my radar profile, plus this also helps to recharge the flat batteries

21TSS - or Traffic Separation Scheme is a traffic-management route-system ruled by the International

Maritime Organisation or IMO. The traffic-lanes (or clear-ways) indicate the general direction of the
ships in that zone; ships navigating within a TSS all sail in the same direction or they cross the lane in
an angle as close to 90 degrees as possible.
especial as I have so many systems on at present. Still off ‘Cascais’ wind

south-east 6kts with blanked fog.

Woody stayed on watch an extra one and half hours while I monitored the

situation via the radar. Within a short while Woody started making silly

mistakes through tiredness so I sent to bed although he did not want to go

01:27hrs (GMT).

To break the boredom of sitting here a thought come into my mind, why are

peas round when beans are not?

Passage day 15

Monday 8th August 2005

10:54hrs (GMT) position 36o47’862N 010o26’489W

Once again becalmed, the wind picked up at 13:14hrs (GMT) although

cyclonic for the next few hours. It finally settled from the south-west force

3-4. Weather, a sunny day with light clouds. An uneventful day really

although email now working well. Becalmed once more, meanwhile Woody

caught a fish, a small blue fin tuna of about 4Lb in old money. Stunk the

boat out for hours. Woody, although an angler he has never gutted a fish so I

explained how to do it.

Passage day 16

Tuesday 9th August 2005

19:30hrs (GMT) position 34o23’890N 010o02’267W

Made good progress today only 338Nm to go to the Canaries. Wind from

the south-west, where else! Force 3-4 Weather sunny with a few clouds.

Batteries low again so running the engine for a few hours to top them up.

The food and water supplies are holding up well, the aft tank is still full

whilst the forward tank is half full. Really missing my boys today I have

sent a few emails but nothing back and for the first time I will not be around

on Adams’s birthday, he’s 19 now. I love all my boys so much. Onboard it’s

been a quiet day with light winds and sunshine. I guess I’m a bit low in

spirits today.

Passage day 17

Wednesday 10th August 2005

06:50hrs (GMT) we are becalmed once again but this time during the night,

as there was no shipping around I left the navigation lights on and turned in

for while, radar guard alarms 22 also set.

Wind 6kts north-west

Barometer 1015mb rising slowly

Missing my three boys’ I do not like being away from them. Now I call

them my boy’s but really, they are young men now. I’m so proud of them.

Adam is 19 now (I missed his birthday) and doing well at university as well

as at work. Harry is 17 now and doing well in school whilst Billy is 14, he

also is doing very well at school. It’s been seven years since their mother

22Radar guard alarms - rings circling the vessel on the radar screen at a given distance, i.e. 3 & 6Nm.
Any object entering that area sets off an audible alarm.
asked me to leave. That day was the worst of my life leaving them behind.

The second worst day was just two weeks ago. Leaving them again to say I

have a few tears in my eyes would be an understatement.

Weather sunny and hot 34.4oC. Only 298Nm to the Canaries.

Passage day 18

Thursday 11th August 2005

19:00hrs (GMT) position 32o07’891N 011o06’290W

Making up for time slowly with 6-8kts of wind. A beautiful day although

not for sailing.

Barometer 1015mb steady

Weather sunny and you guessed it hot at 35oC and calm. Not a lot happening

today although the wind increased later to 25kts. Put two reefs in for the

night. Canaries 230Nm away.

What away to start the day as another shooting star but this time stretching

across the whole sky, the time is now 01:40hrs (GMT) at position

32o44’600N 011o22’140W. Feel a little better today, still thinking of my

boy’s but a little better. Time is going really slow here, so close but so far

we have covered 130Nm with little wind. Too much time to think!

Passage day 19

Friday 12th August 2005

23:10hrs (GMT) position 30o44’737N 010o39’724W

Wind around 25kts during the night reducing to 6kts by the morning. Still

on a heading of 210M. It’s been a very slow day, looks like will arrive in the

Canaries around 18:00hrs (GMT) tomorrow.

The night of the shooting stars, too many to count through the night. It’s

now 11:06hrs (GMT) and I have just woken up after doing the morning

watch (04:00–07:59), I tried to connect and download email but gave up on

that idea due to bad atmospherics.

We are looking forward to arriving in the Canaries tomorrow.

Passage day 20

Saturday 13th August 2005

15:16hrs (GMT) land spotted, hope it’s the Canaries, the original plan was

to go to Puerto Naos but it’s now dark, I am unable to contact the port so

will head for Puerto Calero where it will be easier to berth at night.

Wind 6-8kts north-east

Barometer 1016mb rising slowly

22:20hrs (GMT) position 28o55'2.29N 13o42'6.26W

Arrived Puerto Calero, engine off at 22:30hrs (GMT). Covered 75Nm today,

1,966.75Nm in total.
Sunday 14th August 2005

Ashore first light, to the ‘tower’ that’s where the harbour masters office is

located. My Spanish is next to useless and likewise his English however we

managed to work it all out. It’s very beautiful here.