Moscow

Maps Events Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels
Moscow
March - May 2016
USSR-Russia Hockey
The history of the nations
most successful sport
Torzhok
Ancient city between Moscow

and St. Petersburg
inyourpocket.com
N42
5-59
.4
Contents
E S S E N TI A L
C I TY G U I D E S
Foreword
In the News
Arrival & Getting Around
Public transport
City Basics
Language
Culture & Events 10

Concerts 10
Exhibitions 15
Features
Hockey in the USSR and Russia 16

Sport interview 19

46
Ice Hockey World Championship Schedule 50
Travel feature: Torzhok 27
47
47
Where to eat
20
48
Maslenitsa and Bliny
21
Moscow terraces
24

50

50
Nightlife
28
Dance and drink the night away

52
-
53
What to see
30
The Kremlin
30

54
River cruises
31
, ,
Churches and monasteries
32

55
Museums 33
,
Parks and gardens
35
Where to stay
36
Shopping
38
38
Russian souvenirs
Business & Expat 39

Column: What is Resident?
39
The Expat Experience: Karl Damegger
40
Why Russians Dont Smile
41
St. Petersburg
42
Visit the Northern capital
www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
56
56
..
57
58
58
59
Maps & Index

City map
Street index
Metro map
62
66
67
March - May 2016
Foreword
In the News
Welcome to the capital! Finally Moscow has completed its

transformation from a cold snow-covered city to a warm
spring paradise. And Russians know how to celebrate
spring properly. Of course we mean the famous pancake
week called Maslenitsa dont miss it because only during
this week you can eat as many pancakes as you want without feeling guilty. When you are done with it you can burn
some calories by going to museums (page 30), jamming
at concerts (page 10), going from painting to painting at
one of the exhibitions (page 15) or even doing some sport.
Maybe some hockey? We dedicated our special feature to
this traditional Russian sport, so go to page 16 to learn why
Russians are so crazy about it. If you are staying in Moscow
a bit longer and want an unusual experience check out
page 27 and read about the ancient town of Torzhok in
Tver Oblast. Not a lot of foreigners go there but this place
is definitely worth a visit. Enjoy your stay and have fun!
Thanks for reading!
Ksenia Elzes, Russia In Your Pocket
Moscow In Your Pocket

founded and published by OOO
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Published 5 times per year with supplements,
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The Moscow river opens

to navigation
The Moscow river usually opens for business in mid to late

April and then river boats and tourist cruises officially begin operation. According to tradition, on the quay of Gorky
Park a ceremony is held in honor of the beginning of the
season. The longest walking route of the river is from the
pier of the Kievsky railway station district to Novospassky
bridge. On a boat you can sail for 1,5 hours and explore all
the major sights of the capital: the Moscow state University building at Vorobyovy Gory, Neskuchny garden, Gorky
Park, the monument to Peter the great, Cathedral of Christ
the Savior, the Kremlin, the Stalin skyscraper on Kotelnicheskaya embankment and much more.
Moscow to get the 4th

airport
Moscows newest international
airport is to open on March 15,
bringing the total number of airports in the capital serving destinations outside Russia to four.
The new airport is located in Ramenskoye, 43 kilometers away
from Moscow. Thomas Vaishvila,
director general of the Ramport Aero managing company,
made the announcement to reporters during a civil aviation infrastructure forum on February 9th. In 2016 we plan
to serve 1.9 million passengers, in the first month there will
be 50-60,000, said Vaishvila. The airport will be linked to
the city every 30 minutes by Aeroexpress train from Kotelniki metro station and regular buses. More information is
available on the airports website: www.ramport.aero.
The Tabakov theater

will open IN April
The main feature of the theater
will be the convertible stage,
which can be increased in
size by adding spaces to the
proscenium a first for Moscow. The new theater under
the direction of Oleg Tabakov
is located in the center of the
street Gilyarovskogo and will
be equipped with modern sound, lighting and stage
equipment of the highest world standards.
From Elizabeth
to Victoria
Visitors to the Tretyakov Gallery this spring will have the
opportunity to see the famous
Chandos Portrait of Shakespeare. In the framework of
the year of exchange of language and literature between
Great Britain and Russia in the
year 2016, the National Gallery of London has brought
masterpieces of their collection to Moscow. Visitors will get
a chance to view lifetime portraits of Shakespeare, Newton, Dickens, Byron, Queen Victoria, Elizabeth I and many
other famous Brits. www.tretyakovgallery.ru
Moscows metro gained

its 200th station
Moscows metro network gained its 200th station on February 15 with the opening of Salaryevo, at the southern end
of the red Sokolnicheskaya line. The new station is located
outside the MKAD (Moscow Ring Road) between the Kievskoye highway and the village of Salaryevo. Its interiors are
decorated in the style of constructivism: the walls, ceiling,
pillars and floor of the station are divided into squares of
different colors. The walls along the platforms are adorned
with stained-glass windows. www.mosmetro.ru
Museum of Russian
Impressionism to open
Culture vultures - save the date
for May 26, 2016! More than a
1,000m2 of art is coming to you
at the Museum of Russian Impressionism suitably located on
the territory of a former factory.
In addition to exhibition space,
the museum will have a movie
theater, a modern multimedia education space for children and adults, a cozy cafe and book store. This will be
more than just museum this will be a center for education, research and enlightenment. www.rusimp.su
the Old English Court

is now open
Moscow Museum has reopened the Old English court to
visitors in Varvarka. For two years this branch of the Museum was inaccessible to residents and tourists due to
the risky condition of the roof, porch and utility systems.
Now exhibitions, concerts of ancient musical instruments
and theater productions are ready to be held again. The
restored building is a unique monument of history and
architecture of the 16th-17th centuries and the oldest
residence of the English ambassadors in Moscow.
March - May 2016
Arriving & Getting Around

Moscow is famous for its red walls and its excellent public transport system. Home to over 12 million people,
Moscow has a public transportation that has been hailed
as being amongst the best and most efficient in the
world. Whether it is bus, tram, underground, trolley bus,
marshrutka (fixed route minibuses) or train, the prices are
cheap, the journey is brief and despite the severe weather
that hits Moscow, virtually always on time and in service.
And if public transport is not for you, simply get a taxi. You
will never find yourself without a method of getting from
A to B in Moscow!
Moscow City Pass Card

Moscow City Pass
is a sightseeing
card that gives you
free entry to 41
museums and 3
excursions such as
Moscow city tour,
sightseeing
bus
tour and Moscow River cruise. As well as attractions, the
card also offers discounts at several restaurants around
city, taxi and car rental services and cut price places on
an assortment of walking tours adapted to match the
interests of any visitor. Plus to other privileges holders
of Moscow City Pass can pass out of turn to the main
museums and excursions, such as Kremlin, St.Basils
Cathedral, Tretyakov Gallery, Solyanla VPA and Radisson
Royal Flotilla.
Cards can be ordered online and delivered anywhere
in the city. They are also on sale at the Tourist Information Center in GUM, Hearts of Russia outlet in main
trade centers and at dozens of hotels and hostels
around the city. A one-day pass is 2,200Rbl, three days
costs 4,200Rlb and five days is 5,200Rbl. Full details
of offers and availability can be found at the website
www.russiacitypass.com, www.moscowpass.com
Arriving by plane
Moscows three main airports are Sheremetyevo located
in the north west, Domodedovo in the south east and
Vnukovo in the south west.
Aeroexpress Trains
The Aeroexpress train is by the
far the fastest and most reliable
way to get in to the city centre,
dropping passengers off at the
metro circle line. Night time arrivals (the Aeroexpress is closed
between 00:30 and 05:00) will
be at the mercy of taxi drivers
so it is advisable to pre-book
a taxi or transfer, to save yourself being ripped off by the
touts. Qtel. (+7) 800 700 33 77, www.aeroexpress.ru.
Arriving & Getting Around

Domodedovo Airport (DME)
Aeroexpress trains go from here to the Paveletsky station.
The journey time is 45 minutes. Qtel. (+7) 499 933 66 66,
www.domodedovo.ru.
Sheremetyevo Airport (SVO)
Aeroexpress trains go from here to the Belorusskaya station. The journey time is 35 minutes. Qtel. (+7) 495 578
65 65, www.svo.aero.
Vnukovo airport (VKO)
From here you can take the Aeroexpress train to Kievskaya
station. The journey time is 35 minutes. Qtel. (+7) 499 937
55 55, www.vnukovo.ru.
Arriving by train
Arriving in Russia by rail is a great experience, and whether
you are coming from east or west, north or south, Moscows many train stations are always bustling with travelers
about to embark on long journeys.Those arriving very early
in the morning to the stations around Komsomolskaya
ploschad (Leningradsky, Kazansky and Yaroslavsky - usually
hubs for travel from central Siberia, the Urals and St. Petersburg) would be advised to get a taxi rather than wait for the
metro to open as the area can be rather dangerous at night.
Belorussky Station
Trains go from here to Berlin, Warsaw, Minsk, Vilnius, Kaliningrad, and Sheremetyevo Airport via the Aeroexpress
train.QA-1, Tverskaya Zastava pl. 7, MBelorusskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 251 60 93, www.belorusskiy.railclient.ru.
Kazansky Station
Gateway to the East, trains run to Kazan, Tashkent, Samara, Ulan-Ude and beyond.QE-1, Komsomolskaya pl.
2, MKomsomolskaya, tel. (+7) 499 266 31 81, www.
kazanskiy.railclient.ru.
Kievsky Station
Besides Kiev, destinations include Odessa, Budapest, Bucharest, Kishenev, as well as Vnukovo airport via the Aeroexpress.Q-4, Pl. Kievskogo Vokzala 1, MKievskaya,
tel. (+7) 499 240 04 15, www.kievskiy.railclient.ru.
Kursky Station
For destinations in south west Russia and Ukraine, including Rostov-on-Don and Belgorod.QE-2/3, Ul. Zemlyanoy
Val 29, MKurskaya, tel. (+7) 495 266 53 10, www.
kursky-vokzal.ru.
Leningradsky Station
Hub for trains going north to Helsinki, Tallinn and St. Petersburg, including the Sapsan express.QE-1, Komsomolskaya
pl. 3, MKomsomolskaya, tel. (+7) 495 262 91 43, www.
leningradskiy.railclient.ru.
Paveletsky Station
For trains to Domodedovo Airport via the Aeroexpress , or further afield into south east Russia.QD-5, Paveletskaya pl. 1,
MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 235 05 22, www.paveleckiy.
railclient.ru.
Rizhsky Station
Destinations include Riga or elsewhere in Latvia.QD-5,
Rizhskaya pl. 1, MRizhskaya, tel. (+7) 495 631 15 88,
www.rijskiy.railclient.ru.
Yaroslavsky Station
The starting point for your Trans-Siberian adventure, trains
go to Beijing, Ulan Bator and Siberian destinations such as
Irkutsk on Lake Baikal and Russias most easterly destination, Vladivostok.QE-1, Komsomolskaya pl. 5, MKomsomolskaya, tel. (+7) 800 775 00 00.
Public Transport
The quickest method of public transport in Moscow is the
metro. With no more than 3 minutes passing between each
train, passengers barely get a chance to marvel at the beautiful architecture inside many stations. Buying a ticket is very
easy, either a single from the automatic machine, or multiple
rides from the ticket office. Tickets cost 50Rbl. On the more
modern trains, there is an electronic sign in each carrige announcing the next station. In the older carriages, however, it
is simply a voiceover, which can be difficult to hear in rush
hour, so if you arent familiar with Moscows many stations, it
is best to count the number of stops you need to go.
Trams, buses and trolleybuses all use the same tickets as the
metro. tramlines run all over the city and are very easy to navigate, though perhaps slightly less punctual than the metro.
Buses and trolleybuses are also very straightforward, with the
routes and destinations displayed in the windows and an electronic, scrolling banner with the name of the next stop inside,
Last but not least: marshrutkas. A marshrutka may take
some getting used to for a newcomer to Moscow. What can
look like slightly dodgy minibuses are actually a legitimate
form of transport with fixed routes. Passengers can ask the
driver to stop by shouting ostanovite pazhalsta! anywhere
along the route to let them out. The average cost is 50Rbl
- be sure to have some small change on you when taking a
marshrutka as a driver will not take kindly to a 1,000Rbl note!
Taxis
Taxis in Moscow can be relatively cheap compared to other
Western capitals. If you phone a legitimate taxi company,
youll be quoted an exact price for the journey.
Gett Taxi, tel. (+7) 499 999 08 39, gett.com/ru
New Moscow Taxi, tel. (+7) 495 780 67 80, www.newmoscowtaxi.ru
New Yellow Taxi, tel. (+7) 495 940 88 88, www.nyt.ru
TaxiEscort, tel. (+7) 495 622 20 20, www.taxiescort.ru
Taxi Shanson, tel. (+7) 495 225 31 31, www.tshanson.ru
XXL taxi, tel. (+7) 495 995 82 94, www.xxltaxi.ru
Buying train tickets

Buying train tickets at the station
For the full blooded Russian experience, line up to buy a
train ticket at one of the kassi (Ticket offices) at any train
station. You can buy tickets for any train out of Moscow at
any train station. If you are buying tickets to a destination
outside of Russia, you need to look for the mezhdunarodnaya kassa (international desk). If you dont speak Russian, it
is a good idea to find out the number and time of the train
you want to catch beforehand and write it down to help
you along, as most assistants do not speak English. Look
for a big LCD board in the station showing the timetable.
Dont forget they also require your passport to sell you a
ticket, this is so that your passport details can be printed on
your ticket. If you lose your ticket, it is possible to get a new
one printed for a small fee by taking your passport to the
special lost tickets desk. You will be required to show your
passport when you enter the train (to prove the ticket and
reservation belongs to you).
Buying train tickets online
Using the website of the Russian railways eng.rzd.ru comes
in very handy. There you can view the timetables and buy
tickets online with a credit card and then just pick it up from
the station! Other options are to buy through a ticket agency or travel agency in Moscow or try and make a booking
through online retailers such as www.poezda.net, www.
tutu.ru, www.trainsrussia.com and www.poezdmegapolis.ru but you might need a login and a password.
March - May 2016
City Basics
Language
Be on guard!
Avoid attracting unwanted attention by not speaking
loudly in your mother tongue, or walking the streets if
you have been drinking. If you are of African, Arab, or
Asian descent or have dark skin exercise caution, particularly at night.
Moscow Tourist Helpline (English)
(+7) 800 220 00 02.
Registration
Remember that you must be registered within 7 days of
your arrival in Russia (excluding weekends and public holidays). Hotels are legally obliged to register you within 24
hours of arrival. Many travel agencies can also register you.
If you dont get registered on time, you can expect serious
problems when leaving, ranging from paying a fee, to missing your flight while officials interrogate you.
Money
The national currency is the rouble (Rbl). Banknotes come
in denominations of 50, 100, 500, 1,000 and 5,000. Rouble
coins come in 1, 2, 5 and 10Rbl. There are 100 kopeks to a
rouble and kopek coins come in 5, 10 and 50. Its illegal to
pay in dollars or euros. You can find ATMs at most metro
stations, banks and large hotels.
Foreigner Prices
The foreigner price is a hangover from the good old days
of Intourist-organised Soviet travel. At some theatres and
museums, foreigners are required to pay two to five times
more than the Russian price. Ouch! These institutions insist
that Russian tickets are subsidised with foreigners paying the
real price. If you have a document (propusk), which says you
work or study in Russia, you can usually get the local price.
Climate
In spring Russia really starts to take on a new look and
pace of life as the snow melts and the trees regain their
leaves again. Typically things dont start to really warm
up until the end of April. May can be a delight or it can
also be chilly, so be prepared for gloomy weather as
well as the odd afternoon of glorious sunshine.
Customs
For most travellers leaving Russia you will just need to go to the
GREEN (nothing to declare) channel and you do NOT need to
complete the Customs and Currency Declaration Statement
upon arrival or departure (unless you are carrying thousands
of dollars in cash with you). Any art works, icons etc that are
over 100 years old cannot be taken out of the country. If you
are in doubt about antiques you have bought get an experts
report, either from the Rosokhrankultura (Kitaigorodsky pr. 7,
bldg. 2, tel. (+7) 495 660 77 30) or an accredited shop. Travelling to most countries you can legally take 200 cigarettes and
2 litres of hard alcohol out with you. To some countries such as
Estonia, the allowance is less.
Mobile Phones
You can use your mobile phone from home if your provider
has a roaming agreement with a Russian mobile company.
To avoid roaming charges, you can get a Russian SIM card.
Youll need to bring your passport to the store to register
your new sim card.
Alcohol
The traditional Russian alcoholic drink is of course vodka.
The Poles may also claim that they invented it, but what
is certain is that the Russians - and in particular the scientist Mendeleev - are the ones who perfected the recipe.
Vodka is cheap and there are literally hundreds of brands to
choose from. The most traditional way to drink it is straight
as a shot, followed by a salty snack. Beer (pivo) is now the
most popular alcoholic drink in Russia and Sovietskoye
shampanskoye (Soviet champagne) is the national party
drink. Take note that you cannot buy alcohol in shops that
is above 0,5% between 22:00 and 11:00.
Temparature, oC Rainfall, mm
Post
Rain (max)
Highest recorded temperature (oC)
Average temperature (oC)

Lowest recorded temperature (oC)
Only believe half the stories you hear about Russias post
system. Mail may get detoured, but usually not lost. If
you need to get something in or out of the country in
a hurry, consider a courier service. A letter to Europe or
Australia takes around three weeks. In addition to these
offices below, you can also buy stamps from any post
office in Moscow and drop them into any dark blue post
box around the city.
useful phrases
No/Yes
Hello
Goodbye
Thank you
Sorry/excuse me
Please
I don't understand
I don't speak
Russian
Do you speak
English?
Help
Net/da
Zdrastvuite
Dasvidaniya
Spasibo
Izvinite
Pazhalusta
Ya ne panimayu
Ya ne gavaryu
pa-russky
Vy gavaritye
pa-anglisky?
Pomogitye
Mnye (ne)
I (don't) like it
nravitsa
May I?
Mozhno?
Do you have...?
U vas est?
I don't know
Ya ne znayu
How much is it? Skolko stoit?
It's expensive!
Eta dorogo!
Bolshoy/
Large/small
malenky
Khorosho/
Good/bad
plokho
Today
Sevodnya
Tomorrow
Zaftra
Ostanavite
Stop here please
pazhalusta
When? At what Kogda? Vo
time?
skolko?
Of course
Koneshno
Happy Holidays! S Praznikom!

-

-?
()
?
...?

?
!
/
?
?
Language Center
Ruslingua Language Center
Ruslingua linguistic center has been offering courses in European languages as well as Russian since
2005. The courses are totally flexible: you can attend group courses (2-4 people per group) at the
school's central location or have a teacher come to
you at a convenient time - wherever is best for you.
Corporate training, exam preparation, conversation
classes as well as an intensive one-day "talking to
your driver" crash course are all on offer. Ruslingua's
homely atmosphere and individual approach lead to
the best results!QD2, Sretensky bul. 2, office 408,
MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 625 10 09, www.
ruslingua.com. Office open from Mon - Fri 11:00 19:00. Lessons everyday. NW
pocket dictionary:
lyubImaya
The Russian adjective lyubimy
corresponds to the English words
beloved or favourite. The word
beloved means lyubimy with the
connotation of love and romance:
lyubimaya zhenshina translates to
beloved woman. The word favourite means samy lyubimy or simply
the superlative of favourite: lyubimy syn translates to favourite son, lyubimy aktyor translates to favourite actor.
The word favourite can also be translated as izlyublenny:
lyubimoe zanyatie means favourite occupation, lyubimoe
blyudo means favourite dish.
russian names
Varvara
The name Varvara is connected with the Greek word
barbarian, which means foreigner or stranger. In the
West it is pronounced a bit differently as Barbara, and
its shorter form is well known to the entire world as
Barbie the most famous doll. During the second half
of the 20th century this name almost disappeared, but
is now becoming popular again.
March - May 2016
Culture & Events
Culture & Events

Moscow can be considered as the birthplace of Tchaikovsky, Tolstoy, Stanislavsky, Chekhov, Bulgakov and Co. they all took their
inspiration from this magical and majestic place. Live music from
local and international performers is another big part of the cultural landscape of the city and on a lighter note, contemporary
Moscow also sees the running of high heeled road races, honey
festivals, air-guitar competitions and other curious events.
concert halls and clubs

Crocus City Hall
QMKAD 65-66 Km, MMyakinino, tel. (+7) 499 550 00
55, www.crocus-hall.ru.
Luzhniki Stadium
QLuzhniki 24, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 495 637 02 62,
www.luzhniki.ru.
Moscow Conservatory, the Great Hall
QB-3, Bol. Nikitskaya ul. 13/6, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7)
495 629 94 01, www.mosconsv.ru.
Moscow Philarmonic Society
QB-1, Ul. Tverskaya 31/4, bldg. 1, MMayakovskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 232 04 00, www.meloman.ru.
RAY JUST Arena
QLeningradsky pr. 31, bldg. 4, MDinamo, tel. (+7) 495
940 67 55, www.rayjustarena.ru.
SC Olimpisky
Q-1, Olimpisky pr. 16, MPr. Mira, tel. (+7) 495 786 33
33, www.olimpik.ru.
Stadium Live
QLeningradsky pr. 80, bldg. 17, MSokol, tel. (+7) 495
540 55 40, www.stadium-live.ru.
theatres
Bolshoi Theatre (BT)
QC-2, Teatralnaya pl. 1, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 499 455
55 55, www.bolshoi.ru
electroTheatRe stanislavsky
QB-2, Tverskaya ul. 23, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 699
72 24, www.electrotheatre.ru
International House of Music: Chamber
Hall (IHMC), Theatre Hall (IHMT), Svetlanov Hall (IHMS)
QE5, Kosmodamianskaya nab. 52, bldg. 8, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 730 10 11, www.mmdm.ru
Kolobov Novaya Opera Theatre (KNOT)
QC-4, Hermitage Garden, ul. Karetny Ryad 3, bldg. 2,
MChekhovskaya, (+7) 495 694 08 68, www.novayaopera.ru
Moscow Philharmonic Rachmaninoff
Hall (MPRH)
Qpr. Michurinsky, Olympic Village, 1, MProspekt Vernadskogo, tel. (+7) 495 232 04 00, www.meloman.ru
Moscow Philharmonic Tchaikovsky Hall (MPTH)
QB-1, Triumfalnaya pl. 4, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7)
495 232 53 53 , www.meloman.ru
Moscow State Music Hall (MSMH)
QE-1, ul. Kalanchevskaya 33, bild. 12, MKomsomolskaya, tel. (+7) 495 680 20 49, www.music-hall.ru
State Kremlin Palace (SKP)

QC3, Ul. Vozdvizhenka 1, MBiblioteka im. Lenina, tel.
(+7) 495 628 52 32, gkd-kremlin.ru
moscow Operetta Theater (MOT)
QC-2, Ul. Bol. Dmitrovka 6, MTeatralnaya, (+7) 495 925
50 50, www.mosoperetta.ru
Stanislavsky and Nemirovich-Danchenko
Moscow Music Theatre
QC-2, Ul. Bol. Dmitrovka 17, MChekhovskaya, tel. (+7)
495 723 73 25, www.stanmus.ru
march events
05.03 Saturday
20:00 Hurts
Seemingly out of nowhere,
the
Manchester-based
Hurts exploded into the
limelight with their viral
video and song Wonderful
Life. The group, consisting of Theo Hutchcraft and
Adam Anderson is characterized by their sensual,
clean, polished pop-music
and impeccable style. A
quick glance at their videos brings an immediate impression of their appreciation for the 80s aesthetic and musical
style. Unlike many who burst into stardom, Hurts has proven themselves as seriously talented composers of music,
videos and sensual performances which has led to their
lasting career in the spotlight.QCrocus City Hall, MKAD
65-66 km, MMyakinino, tel. (+7) 499 550 00 55, www.
informationhurts.com. Tickets 1,200 - 9,000Rbl.
Jazz triumph
10.03 Thursday 13.03 sunday
Russias most famous
jazzman, Igor Butman,
will lead the Moscow
Jazz Orchestra on March
10-13th as the 16th Triumph of Jazz festival
welcomes top world
artists to Moscow. This
years event will see the
debut performance of
world famous American
jazz band Medeski, Martin and Wood, as well as
the premiere of Butmans new project with the extremely talented American musicians Conrad Herwig,
Alex Sipiagin and Victor Lewis. Basically, do not miss
this if you love jazz! Full festival program is available
on the website www.jazztriumph.ru
08.03 Tuesday
18:00 The gala show of Valentin Yudashkin
The esteemed and distinguished Couturier Valentin Yudashkin will present his spring - summer collection on
March 8th at the State Kremlin Palace. As usual, Yudashkin
will make the presentation of his female line on International Women's Day, putting on a grandiose show featuring a variety of Russian artists. The first portion of the show
will display Russian show-biz starts sporting various costumes, followed by the presentation of the spring collection.QC3, The State Kremlin Palace, ul. Vozdvizhenka 1,
MBiblioteka im. Lenina, tel. (+7) 495 620 78 46, www.
yudashkin.com. Tickets 2,000 - 20,000Rbl.
08.03 Tuesday
19:00 The Pink Floyd Show UK
The Pink Floyd Show UK, whilst conducting its worldwide
tour, will pay a visit to Moscow with its stunning new show
IMMERSION. The performance combines the deep, beloved and bewildering music of Pink Floyd, perfectly executed by the band, in combination with intense visuals,
orchestral sets, and a children's choir in order to create a
truly immersive and unforgettable atmosphere. This will
be aided by a massive 9 by 16 metres large LED screen. The
classic music of Pink Floyd and modern effects for a truly
magnificent experience!QF6, Russia Concert Hall, ul.
Luzhniki 24/2, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 495 637 00 54,
www.pinkfloydshowuk.ru. Tickets 1,000 - 15,000Rbl.
10.03 Thursday
20:00 Gregorian Final Chapter Farewell Tour
Within their final farewell
tour the critically acclaimed
band Gregorian will pay a
visit to Moscow for a performance of their Final
Chapter, which will be their
final album. The group has
built their career based on
performing pop-rock songs
in the style of the Gregorian Chant, a religious form
of music which emerged
during the 9th and 10th
centuries. Their performances are characterized by mythical imagery, scenery, costumes, lasers, and their unique
interpretation of music. For all the fans out there, this is
your last chance!QCrocus City Hall, MKAD 65-66 km,
MMyakinino, tel. (+7) 499 550 00 55, www.gregorian.
de. Tickets 1,200 - 15,000Rbl.
Opera AND Ballet
Date Time
March
4-8, 10 19:00
9
19:00
9
19:00
9,10 19:00
10
19:00
11-13 19:00
13
19:00
15
19:00
17
19:00
18-20 19:00
19
22
23-27
23
24
18:00
19:00
19:00
19:00
19:00
24
19:00
25
19:00
25
29
29-30
31
April
1,2
5,7,9
7-10
19:00
19:00
19:00
19:00
19:00
19:00
19:00
13-17 19:00
15
19:00
19-24 19:00
21-24 19:00
27-30 19:00
Event
Venue
CountOrlov
The Sleeping Beauty
Medeya. Ekvus
YAR
Salome
The Stone Guest (premiere)
The Troubadour
The Barber of Seville
The Elixir of Love
Modern Choreography Night
(premiere)
Nabucco
Swan Lake
Don Carlos
Spartacus
Giselle
O Mozart! Mozart...
Requiem in two parts
Legend of the Swan Lake
and Ugly Duckling (premiere)
La Traviata
Eugene Onegin
Giselle
The Snow Maiden
MOT
SKP
IHMT
MSMH
KNOT
BT
KNOT
KNOT
KNOT
Carmen
Rodelinda (premiere)
Don Quixote (premiere)
The Temple Dancer
(La Bayadere)
The Ten Sopranos,
gala concert
Don Pasquale (premiere)
The Pirate (Le Corsaire)
Eugene Onegin
BT
KNOT
SKP
BT
SKP
SKP
KNOT
SKP
KNOT
KNOT
BT
KNOT
BT
BT
BT
BT
IHMS
BT
BT
BT
March - May 2016
11
Culture & Events
Culture & Events

12.03 Saturday
19:00 A-HA
Classical Music
Date Time
March
7 19:00
8 19:00
9 19:00
10 19:00
16 19:00
18 19:00
20 19:00
22 19:00
23
24
25
28
19:00
19:00
19:00
19:00
29 19:00
Event
Venue
Vivaldi, Rossini
French movie soundtracks
Tchaikovsky, Myaskovsky
Schubertiade
Johann Strauss, The Waltz King
The Ivory, Chamber Choir
Concert (premiere)
Mozart
The First Quarter (Of a Century),
25th anniversary of the theatre
Beethoven, Rodrigo, Assad
Bach
Ravel, Debussy, Honegger
Beethoven, Schumann
A. Tchaikovsky (M.Jansons,
Y.Bashmet, B.Berezovsky)
Rakhmaninov
KNOT
MCGH
MPTH
BT
KNOT
30 19:00
April
1 19:00 B.Berezovsky(piano)
National Orchestra ofthe
5 19:00
CapitoleinToulouse concert
6 19:00 Prokofiev
8 19:00 Mahler, Beethoven, Schumann
9 19:00 Shostakovich(M.Pletnev)
12 19:00 Handel
14 19:00 Wagner, List, Schubert
17 19:00 Bach (Garry Grodberg)
125th Anniversary of Prokofiev
23 12:00
(V. Gergiev)
The Painting and Music of Eng24 14:00
land. Purcell, Britten, Elgar
Germany. Wagner, Brahms,
26 19:00
Beethoven
May
12 19:00 Bottesini, Dvorak, Schubert
16 19:00 Mozart, Prokofiev
Festival Male Choir of Moscow
17 19:00
Danilov Monastery
23 19:00 Tchaikovsky(V. Spivakov)
26 19:00 Mozart, Mendelssohn
30 19:00 Stravinsky, Gubaidulina
31 19:00 Schnittke, Brahms
IHMT
MPRH
KNOT
MPTH
KNOT
MPRH
MPTH
MPTH
MPRH
MPRH
BT
BT
MPTH
MPTH
MPTH
MPRH
MPTH
MPTH
MPTH
MPRH
MPRH
MPRH
A-ha is back yet again, following the announcement

of their participation in the
festival Rock in Rio, their
new album CastinSteel
and a world tour to compliment it! The Norwegian
band will include a visit to
Moscow within their tour
and will perform for Moscovites at the Olympic stadium.
The trio, best known for their 1985 hit (and it's very unique
and memorable video) Take on Me, will be celebrating 30
years of producing and performing music together.QSC
Olimpisky, Olimpisky pr.16, MPr. Mira, tel. (+7) 495 786
33 33, www.a-ha.com. Tickets 2,250 - 35,000Rbl.
17.03 Thursday
19:00 Hollywood Gala Night
Nic Raine, the well-respected Hollywood music
conductor responsible for
the music in such films as
Pirates of the Caribbean,
Mission Impossible & The
Mummy will be presenting
a night of Hollywood music, from the most famous
films of our generation, to
be performed by the Russian State Orchestra, as well as the
Yurlova Choir. 150 musicians will hit the stage to present the
music and themes from films such as Avatar, Gladiator, Star
Wars, Jurassic Park, Rocky, and much, much more!QD4,
Moscow International House of Music, nab.Kosmodamianskaya 52, bldg.8, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 730 10
11, www.mmdm.ru. Tickets 1,500 - 3,800Rbl.
18.03 Friday
19:00 Cossack Liberty
Step right up and jump right in to the enigmatic and dazzling world of traditional Don Cossack culture with the State
Song and Dance Ensemble "Cossack Liberty". Come see
and experience a taste of Cossack life with brilliant dancing, talented singers, and traditional costumes of the legendary frontiersmen and their uniquely preserved culture.
The Cosscak's performance is always well received, entertaining, and not to be missed!QThe Golden Ring Theatre,
ul.Timiryazevskaya 17, MDmitrovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 611
48 00, www.golden-ring.ru. Tickets 700 - 1,200Rbl.
MCGH
MPTH
MPRH
MPTH
MPTH
21.03 Monday
20:00 Ennio Morricone
Ennio Morricone, the great
composer perhaps best
known for his works on
film scores, specifically
those with Sergio Leone's
genre-defining Westerns,
such as The Good, The
Bad, and The Ugly, which
is considered to be one of
the most influential scores ever produced, will be performing in Moscow again! With 200 musicians at his disposal,
Morricone will dazzle and amaze those in attendance
whilst presenting film favourites and compositions from
throughout his career. His new tour will celebrate his 60th
year in the business and feature many new works as well.
QCrocus City Hall, MKAD 65-66 km, MMyakinino, tel.
(+7) 499 550 00 55, www.enniomorricone.org. Tickets
4,500 - 20,000Rbl.
22.03 Tuesday
20:00 LETZ ZEP
Widely regarded, even by
Robert Plant himself, as
the greatest Led Zeppelin
Tribute band around today,
Letz Zep will perform at
the Crocus City Hall on the
22nd of March. The group
has toured four continents,
playing in 33 countries to
bring the best of Led Zeppelin back to life in a show that
is completely reminiscent of an actual performance of
perhaps the greatest and most famous of all Classic Rock
Bands.QCrocus City Hall, MKAD 65-66 km, MMyakinino, tel. (+7) 499 550 00 55, www.letzzep.com. Tickets
2,500 - 10,000Rbl.
april events
02.04 Saturday
19:00 Eros Ramazzotti
The Italian Superstar of
romantic pop and poetic
ballads Eros Ramazzotti, on
a month long tour of Russia, Georgia, Azerbaijan &
Belarus will perform in the
Crocus City Hall in Moscow.
Known throughout his 30year career for his unique
voice, brilliant performances and emotive ballads, Ramazzotti has solidified his position as a leader in European pop
music with his most recent release Perfetto. His charismatic and passionate style of performance should be well
received in Moscow!QCrocus City Hall, MKAD 65-66 km,
MMyakinino, tel. (+7) 499 550 00 55, www.ramazzotti.
com. Tickets 2,000 - 40,000Rbl.
07.04 Thursday
19:00 Elena Vaenga
Elena Vaenga is a star of modern Russian music, whose
voice can be described as no less than magic. Vaenga
has made a name for herself by successfully weaving together often times completely opposed forms of music
into her own recognisable style. Vaenga is a singer who
believes herself not to be a performer, but an artist, and
her fans and critics agree! She conveys emotions, stories
and intimacy with her audience through her powerful and
beautiful voice.QC3, The State Kremlin Palace, ul. Vozdvizhenka 1, MBiblioteka im. Lenina, tel. (+7) 495 620 78
46, www.vaenga.ru. Tickets 1,200 - 5,000Rbl.
14.04 Thursday
20:00 Goran Bregovic
Goran Bregovic, the world
famous Yugoslav omposer
is set to perform his unique
brand of genre-defying music in Moscow on the 14th of
April. Bregovic is known for
his orchestral compositions
which are heavily influenced
by traditional Balkan music,
as well as his forays into pop
music and composing scores for films, including Arizona
Dream and the Borat movie. In addition, his work on the
Serbian Film Underground helped the film win Palme d'Or
at the Cannes film festival in 1995.QYotaspace Glavclub,
ul.Ordzhonikidze 11, MLeninsky prospect, tel. (+7) 495
230 10 30, www.goranbregovic.rs. Tickets 1,800 - 8,000Rbl.
23.04 Saturday
19:00 Grand Organ Gala Easter Concert
After his triumphant new year performance in Moscow, Phillip Scriven, the chief organist of London's Westminister Abbey will return to Moscow to perform the GRAND ORGAN
GALA in collaboration with the State Orchestra New Russia,
A. Yurlov Chorus Choir and the Italian conductor Alessandro
D'Agostini. Scriven, whose yearly sold-out performances in
the Royal Albert Hall, will play in the Svetlanovsky Hall on
Russia's largest organ, and will be accompanied by 3D visuals to complement his music, featuring the greatest organ
masterpieces including works by Mozart, Bach, Handel, and
more!QD4, Moscow International House of Music, nab.
Kosmodomianskaya 52, buil.8, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7)
495 730 10 11, www.mmdm.ru. Tickets 2,000 - 3,200Rbl.
March - May 2016
13
Culture & Events

Electrotheatre
Stanislavsky
The new and improved
Stanislavsky Theatre, which
opened its doors on Moscows central Tverskaya
Street at the start of the
year, now goes by the name
Electrotheatre. It is simply
homage to one of the first
pre-revolutionary Russian
movie theatres Electrotheatre Ars that occupied the
same building in 1915. The
best traditions of a fashionable movie theatre, a dramatic opera studio and the influence of the famous
Russian director Konstantin Stanislavsky all these factors intertwine to make this theatre truly unique in the
capitals cultural scene. The theatres current art director
Boris Yukhananov is also determined to combine truly
avant-garde traditions with classical Russian theatre
art. Despite this drive for innovation and transformation, Electrotheatre Stanislavksy carefully sticks to the
traditions of Russias dramatic theatre.
Having premiered this summer, The Drillalians will
now be showing this spring. The opera, directed by B.
Yuhananov is set in a fantastical realm, following the
fate of the long-forgotten ancient civilisation of the
Drillalians. Still living among us today, they fate constantly lives in the balance, and only can a prince save
it. The total length of the opera is nights, during which
time the music of six composers is performed. Real enthusiasts will undoubtedly be present at all five nights
- but just the one will give you a taste all the same!
20:00 on March 30, 31 and April 3, 4, 8, 9, 11, 12, 14.
With English subtitles supplied.
Also find other performances on the website.
electroTheatRe stanislavsky
QB-2, Tverskaya ul. 23, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495
699 72 24, www.electrotheatre.ru.
24.04 Sunday
18:00 The Turetsky Choir
On April 23rd & 24th the well-renowned group will present their anniversary show #WITHYOUFOREVER. The name
was carefully selected to signify their relationship with
their dedicated fans, and their performance as a dialogue
between them over their shared love of music and journey together. The Turetsky Choir is a unique musical phenomenon of the 21st century, a synergy of vocals, acting,
and extraordinary charisma. This concert will celebrate
25 years of their activities and is due to be full of favourites, surprises, smiles and spectacular moods for all who
attend!QC3, The State Kremlin Palace, ul. Vozdvizhenka 1, MBiblioteka im. Lenina, tel. (+7) 495 620 78 46,
www.arthor.ru. Tickets 1,200 - 20,000Rbl.
Culture & Events

may events
Exhibitions
01.05 Sunday
19:00 The Sretensky Monastery Choir
The Sretensky Monastery Choir is holding their yearly Easter
performance, which this year falls, as luck would have it, on
Sunday - the day of Christ's resurrection! This year's performance consists of not only masterpieces of Russian spiritual &
religious music, but all of your favourite folk songs too, which
will be performed in the unique and mesmerising style of
Men's choir, and additionally featuring performances by various soloists invited from opera houses the world over. Everyone is invited and welcome to celebrate this holiday together
- after all, the song is the soul of Russia!QCrocus City Hall,
MKAD 65-66 km, MMyakinino, tel. (+7) 499 550 00 55,
www.bestchoir.ru. Tickets 500 - 5,000Rbl.
04.03 Friday - 10.04 Sunday

Reflections in Coloured Water
Andrey Esionov, a painter,
a watercolour master and a
graphic artist has successfully returned to art after
a twenty year break. This
exhibition is the first one
to fully present Esionovs
large-scale watercolours.
Esionov applies his characteristic analytical approach
to watercolour painting though always keeping a slightly
distanced position, as if he only watches the reflections
from afar, on the surface of coloured water. He creates
carefully elaborated compositions, a kind of seamless collage of rich visual material, previously collected in pencil
drawings.QB4, Moscow Museum of Modern Art, bul.
Gogolevsky 10. bldg.2, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495
231 36 60, www.mmoma.ru. Open 12:00 - 20:00, Thu
13:00 - 21:00. Tickets 350Rbl. Free admission 3rd Sun of
every month.
26.05 Thursday
20:00 The Best of Phil Collins
There is something coming in
the air and it is the Best of Phil
Collins - Dance into the Light!
The world famous tributegroup is set to present to
Moscow the best of Phil Collins since he embarked on his
record breaking and critically
acclaimed solo career since
leaving Genesis in 1997. The group is composed of members who have performed with Collins during the height
of his career, and chose to simply carry on whilst Collins entered into retirement. The group is noted especially for their
vocalist whose style, voice and manners bear an uncanny
resemblance to the artist himself.QCrocus City Hall, MKAD
philcollins.co.uk. Tickets 2,700 - 10,000Rbl.
30.05 Monday
20:00 Elton John
Wonderful Crazy Night Tour
The Rocket Man is back in
Russia supporting his Wonderful Crazy Night Tour in
support of his new self-titled
album. Sir Elton John can
rightfully be declared one of
the most successful and extravagant performers in rock
music history, and his following in Russia is as devoted
as anywhere else. This new performance is sure to feature
many of his 1 hits and favourites from throughout his
career, as well as songs from his new album.QCrocus City
Hall, MKAD 65-66 km, MMyakinino, tel. (+7) 499 550 00
55, www.eltonjohn.com. Tickets 4,500 - 60,000Rbl.
You can buy tickets for many events at

www.kassir.ru and www.bileter.ru
24.03 Thursday - 26.02 Friday

Golden Magic of the 21st Century
Do you believe in magic? If
no, then the Golden Magic
of the 21st Century will
make you a believer. If yes,
then youll definitely enjoy
this show. Stars of modern
magic from countries like
the USA, Argentina, Italy,
France and Belgium will
show you tricks that defy all
lays physics and reveal the art of magic from never before
seen perspectives! The World Champion of 2015 Hector
Mancha will honor the crowd with his presence and absolutely out of this world tricks!QCrocus City Hall, MKAD
crocus-hall.ru. Open 19:00. Tickets 1,000 - 20,000Rbl.
through 03.04 Sunday
The Auschwitz Album
The Lumiere Brothers Centre of Photography presents a
unique set of photographs The Auschwitz Album, an exhibition organised along with Czech Centre, Polish Cultural
entre and the Embassy of Israel in Moscow. Nearly 200
photographs were taken at the Auschwitz - Birkenau death
camp in the spring of 1944 and put together as an album
by an unknown SS officer. Later on this album was found by
Lili Jacob, a then 19-year-old former prisoner of Auschwitz,
in one of the SS barracks of MittelbauDora on the day of its
liberation.QB4, The Lumiere Brothers Centre of Photography, nab.Bolotnaya 3, bldg.1, MKropotkinskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 228 98 78, www.lumiere.ru. Open 12:00 - 21:00.
Tickets 200 - 430Rbl.

The Edge. A Diary of Observations
Vladimir Migachev is a
multi-talented artist that
has explored abstract
painting, dabbled in wall
painting in Orthodox
churches, then returned
to figurative painting before picking landscapeas
his style of choice. The
Edge. A Diary of Observations at ARTSTORY reveals
the artists own take on landscape art, his surroundings of
vast, ploughed fields of Kuban with rare islands of poplars,
vineyards, steppe farmsteads and railways. Migachevs
landscapes are always huge in size and are the result of
the artists individual spiritual vision that lets him see the
essence of what is happening in the world.QB1, Gallery
ARTSTORY, per. Staropimenovsky 14, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 650 13 43, www.art-story.com. Open
12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission free.
Russia on the Road. 1920 -1990
Sixty works of art and design will be on show to celebrate
nearly a centurys worth of artistic depictions of transport in
Russia. Among them will be Andrey Plotnovs painting of Yuri
Gagarin. The first man in space is depicted upon his return
to earth, a smile radiating across his face. The image quickly
became the symbol for victory in the developing space race
with America, as well as one of the most recognisable visual
motifs of the Soviet Union.QInstitute of Russian Realist Art,
Derbenevskaya nab. 7, bldg. 31, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7)
495 276 12 12, www.rusrealart.ru. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Thu
12:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 50 - 150Rbl. Free admission first Tue and last Sat of month.
Photobiennale 2016
This years Photobiennale
will take place in various
locations around Moscow
but some of the most interesting elements will be
on display at the Moscows
Multimedia Art Museum
(MMAM), which kickstarted the event with this
years Pirelli calendar shot
by a contemporary titan
of photography Annie Leibowitz. The works of famous
photographers like William Carrick, Graziano Arici, Cristina
Garcia Rodera and others will grace the walls of MMAM.
Apart from contemporaries, several important retrospective exhibitions will also be on display.QB4, Multimedia
Art Museum, ul.Ostozhenka 16, MKropotkinskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 637 11 00, www.mamm-mdf.ru. Open 12:00 21:00. Closed Mon. Tickets 500Rbl.
March - May 2016
15
Features
Features
Hockey in the Soviet

Union and Russia
The Canada Cup 1981
Despite not winning a medal at the previous Winter Olympics in Sochi in southern Russia, The Russian Federation and
its predecessor, the Soviet Union, is universally known as a
juggernaut in the sport of ice hockey. The Soviet Union in
particular won nearly every international tournament they
participated in, and never failed to win a medal in the winter olympics from 1956 until the collapse of the Soviet Union. Afterwards, Russian players have continued to stream
into the NHL in North America and are among some of the
best and most recognized names in the league, including such superstars as Alexandr Ovechkin and Evgeny
Malkin. Russias history of the sport contains an interesting history with a near immediate blitz to the top, where it
continues to remain to this day.
The first attempts to develop ice hockey in the USSR, as we
know it today, began in the 30s. Prior to this, and perhaps
even for centuries, Russians mostly played bandy or a variation thereof. Bandy a game similar to hockey but which uses
a ball instead of a puck, and has a few more slight variations
to the ice and its rules. At this time, ice hockey was called
Hockey with Shaiba, which is the Russian word for puck. Ice
hockey and its rules was first written about in 1927 in the
Bulletin for Physical Education and was suggested to be introduced as a game of leisure for peasants, farmers and factory workers alike. However,
it still took some time for the
game to catch on.
There was an internal championship held in 1947 for
the game, with a match between Moscow Dynamo
and the central club of the
army CSKA. CSKA was
led by two in particular: the
young player-coach Anatoly Tarasov, who is known
Anatoly Tarasov
as the godfather of Russian
ice hockey and Vselovod Bobrov. Anatoly Tarasov would

go on to lead and coach Russian olympic and international
teams, and mentor players throughout the country.
After serving during the Second World War, Bobrov began
his athletic career, initially for soccer, and he also played
for the Armys team, and was selected three times to
represent Russia nationally, including a tour in England
playing against such teams as Chelsea and Arsenal, during which he scored three goals. Not only that, but he
became one of the Soviet Legends of hockey, scoring 89
goals in 59 games!
During this time in the 50s, the Soviet team played
throughout Europe against the Czechs, Swedes, and others with incredible success. In Vienna in 1953 there was
a series of games held for students, and the Soviets won
all of their games. In 1954, an international championship
was held in Sweden, and while the Soviets were considered
underdogs, they spectacularly routed the revered Canadian
team, beating them 7-2, who was represented by the team
of East York. Afterwards, the Soviet team, including playercoach Tarasov, were invited to play eight friendly games in
Montreal at the legendary stadium, the Montreal Forum.
Here the Russian team and Tarasov were able to gain invaluable insight into the origins of the game and their greatest
players in Canada.
The Soviet team impressed the Canadians by winning five
of these games, losing two, and drawing one. Here the differences in style was quite obvious. The Canadian game of
hockey was much more rough, spirited, and perhaps even
more emotional, while the Russian emphasis was on skating, passing, and team play. Tarasov favoured a system in
which each player played and specialized in his own position on the ice, rather than a universal ability to play any
position, and thus the system of Fives was created, so each
player knew his position and the talents and failings of his
teammates on the ice. This system would remain in place
for the rest of the life of the Soviet Hockey Team.
It wasnt until the Soviet admission into the International

Olympics Committee that popularity of the game really
took off in Russia. For the USSR, as with any other country
in the world, dominance in sport was a matter of pride, and
the decision was made to invest in the sport to help the
USSR become the number one nation in hockey. The Soviet ice hockey team made their debut in the 1956 winter
Olympics in Italy and immediately won the gold medal.
The Soviet Union was now a force to be reckoned with!
However, after this spectacular victory, the Soviet team
was unable to continue with their international success for
another six years. Indeed, their tried and tested star players were getting older, and so a new generation of players
made their debut, and Tarasov was able to create his ideal
team from scratch. From 1963 onwards the Soviet team
won every international championship and two olympic gold medals. Moreover, it was in 1968 when Tarasov
first saw a fifteen year old kid who would later become a
worldwide sensation and hockey hall of famer: Vladislav
Tretyak. Still to this day known as one of the greatest goaltenders of all time, and who commands the adoration of
his Russian fans, and the utmost respect of his competitors
around the world.
Valery Kharlamov, Boris Mikhailov and Vladimir Petrov
The 70s was both the most successful and perhaps most
iconic for the Soviet hockey team, in addition to being
the foundation for their rivalry with Team Canada. Between 1970 and 1979, the USSR won seven world championships and two Olympic gold medals. This was also
during the reign of the greatest Soviet legends of all
time Valery Kharlamov. Playing together with Boris
Mikhailov and Vladimir Petrov, they formed one of the
most effective forward lines in the history of hockey. The
incredible success of the early 70s and Tarasovs fresh,
young, and dynamic roster convinced him that the Soviet team was now ready to take on what was considered
to be the best in the world: the Canadian professionals.
Prior to this, due to regulations and rules laid out by the
International Ice Hockey Federation, professional hockey
players (those playing in the NHL) were disqualified from
competitions, and so up until this point, those playing
in the NHL had not competed in the Olympics or World
Championships. Understandably, this led to the Canadian
team being underrepresented, and the Canadians, having
lost international competitions, were still completely conwww.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
vinced that Russia had yet to face off against their best,
and thus Canada was still the greatest. Now it was time
for the ultimate clash, to settle once and for all who was
the dominant force in world ice hockey!
The history of Hockey in Russia is a

bright and glorious one, with a few
tragedies, but many victories, and
one that seems set to continue on
its brilliant path into the future
The clash of the titans took place in 1972 in the now legendary Summit Series. The 8 game series was agreed to be held
in both Canada and in Russia: the first 4 in Canada in Montreal, Toronto, Winnipeg, and Vancouver, and the remaining 4
games to be played exclusively in Moscow. Frankly speaking,
the Canadians had a sense of arrogance during the negotiations, and were very sure they would win every game, and so
it was decided that the rules and referees would be according
to the European style, rather than North American, which has
a few distinctions. Ironically, Tarasov was replaced as coach for
the Soviet team by Vsevolod Bobrov, who also had experience
playing against the Canadians previously.
The Canadian media and those involved were absolutely certain of their imminent victory, and believed Canada would
sweep the series. In the end, fate came with a tinge of irony
as the Soviets utterly humiliated the Canadian team in Montreal during the first game, defeating the Canadians 7-3 and
sent the public reeling. This tournament, being held during
the height of the cold war, was seen a peaceful means for
either side to display themselves the better of the two, and
the series was taken extremely seriously. The pride of their
respective nations were on the line! After the games in
Canada were complete, the Soviets stood at two wins, one
loss, and one draw. After the Soviets won the first game in
Moscow, Team Canada went on to win the next three and
take the series, with Paul Henderson scoring the now almost
mythological goal to win the series. Since then the series
has become an important part of Canadian culture. Despite
some problems with the series, its organization, allegations
of foul play and other hiccups along the way, the one thing
that was unequivocally demonstrated by the series was that
neither Team Canada, nor the USSR was an invulnerable force
March - May 2016
17
Features
on the ice. The Soviet Union
had earned the respect of
the revered Canadian hockey
team and their viewers back
home. However different
their styles of play may be,
they proved to be an equal
and exciting match for one
another, and this rivalry continues to this day.
The Soviet team went on to
win world championships in
Vladislav Tretyak
1973, 1974, 1975 and 1976. In
1977 they placed bronze at the championship in Vienna, and
though it was still a medal, the Soviet leadership deemed it
shameful, and Tarasov was forced to retire. He was replaced by
Viktor Tikhonov. Tikhonov became the leader of a new generation of Russian hockey players, such as Vyacheslav Fetisov, Igor Larionov, Vladimir Krutov, Alexey Kasatonov,
Pavel Bure, Alexander Mogilny, Valery Kamensky, several
of whom would go on to later play in the NHL.
In 1981, the country experienced a shock at the tragic
and untimely death of their superstar and hero Valery
Kharlamov in a car accident, dying alongside his wife and
her cousin while colliding with a truck. The entire nation
mourned their loss, and fans lined the streets for his funeral
procession, shuffling past his casket which laid at centre
ice of the CSKA arena in Moscow for the fans to pay their
respects. After his death it was forbidden for any player for
the team of CSKA to sport the number 17. One exception
was made, however, when Kharlamovs son joined the KHL
and played, sporting his fathers number.
Vyacheslav Fetisov, Alexey Kasatonov, Sergey Makarov, Igor Larionov and Vladimir Krutov, during the
80s, formed what was known as the Russian Five or
Green Unit (due to the shirts they wore during practice)
which dominated Russian national hockey and the international stage during the 80s. Fetisov became the captain
and lead the team to victory after victory, one of note being winning the Canada Cup in 1981. The USSR beat the
Canadians with a staggering score of 8-1. Also noteworthy
that the great one, Wayne Gretzky was even playing during this game. This was the first and last time that the Soviet
Union won the Canada Cup, however the Russian Five continued to win, and took the 1982 and 1983 world championships. It seemed the sky was the limit for this new lineup
of Russian hockey and no team could match them. In the
final tournament of the great Tretyak, the 1984 Olympics
in Sarajevo, the Russian team again took the gold.
In 1987, rather than the traditional all-star games played in
the NHL, the Soviet team was invited to Quebec to play a
series of games against the NHL all star team. While this
was not as competitive as is typical for international hockey,
it was still a spectacle and regarded as a landmark event in
the world of hockey. It fostered better sympathy and relations between the nations and was touting as a huge success. Across political and social lines the mutual love of the
game was elevated above all else. In addition, the arrival of
the Russian team brought out many fans, supporters, and
Features
viewers who wished to see the Soviets play, and in the end
over $350 000 was raised for the NHL pension fund. The
NHL all-stars took the first game 4-3 and the Soviets the
second 5-3. Again, the greatness of both Soviet and NHL
hockey was on display, and sportsmanship, respect, and
the sport itself was the winner of this event.
From 1989 onwards, there was a massive influx of Russian
hockey players into the NHL. Due to the instability of the
country at home, funding for sports culture and programs
dried up, and for many it was an easy choice, and their only
chance, to escape from a potentially dangerous situation at
home. Many chose instead to live the life of a professional
athlete in the United States or Canada, which is, as we all
know, almost like royalty! Players like Pavel Bure, who went
to the Vancouver Canucks, Sergey Federov to the Detroit Red
Wings, and Alexander Mogilny to the Buffalo Sabres.
After winning the world
championships in 1993, more
than 10 years passed without
winning any significant competitions for the Russian team.
Perhaps during this period,
the difficulty and instability
of the 90s was felt, as funds
and management were not
as present as they were previously. Only in the year of 2008
did the Russian again reclaim
Vyacheslav Fetisov
the title of World Champion,
only to be followed by a second win over Canada in 2009. The
period of poor performance had come to an end!
The cream of the crop of Russian hockey continue to this day
to play for major NHL teams, such as Alexander Ovechkin.
Stars like him show, that although Russian players still dream
to play in the NHL, their upbringing and development in Russia prove that the country still produces world class athletes
and hockey superstars. Not only that, but the KHL, Russias
main hockey league and potential competitor continues to
grow in significance and help the game to regain in popularity that was lost in the 90s. Furthermore, reversing the
trend of emigration was the NHL lockout, which saw many
players, and not only Russians, coming to Russia to play for
KHL teams. This resulted in KHL hockey games being broadcasted in the United States and Canada, further sharing the
game between the nations.
The history of Hockey in Russia is a bright and glorious one, with
a few tragedies, but many victories, and one that seems set to
continue on its brilliant path into the future. Russian hockey will
forever be a challenge and worthy rival to those other countries
in the world to whom hockey is an important part of life. Competitiveness, sportsmanlike behaviour, and a true love for the
game not unlike that shown in Quebec in 87 is what we all hope
for and look forward to in the future ice hockey.
2016 IIHF Ice Hockey World Championship

Game Schedule see page 50
SPORT interview
Interview with Yury
Babenko, captain of
Hockey Club Dinamo
Moscow.
Which hockey players
from the Soviet times do
you consider to be your
idols? Which secrets of
the game did you inherit
from them? In reality there
are many famous people
who did a lot for domestic and world hockey as a whole.
I never had one particular idol, but rather several people
who inspired and influenced me.
Have you seen the film Legend 17 about Valery Kharlamov? What are your thoughts about it? I have seen
Legend 17, yes. Its a great movie in terms of promoting
hockey because the sport is shown just like any other profession where you need to put in the maximum amount
of effort to achieve any results. However, everything is set
on the pitch and thus the inner world of a hockey player
is revealed. So its quite an informative and educational
movie that perhaps aims to change a young boys perception of the sport and turning him into a fan after having
viewed it.
Today Russia is different. How have the societal and
cultural changes reflected upon sports? Its true: Russia is different and the world as a whole is different. This
can also be observed in sport. If we look at hockey and its
infrastructure, we will see new hockey rinks and increased
attendance figures for matches. During the Soviet times
people played outdoors and at Luzhniki, for example, so
it was very different. The game itself has become more
dynamic, the skating style has changed, other things have
also changed (the equipment, the hockey sticks, the ice
has become more slippery.
Do you have a message for the fans that come to support our hockey players? A huge thanks if were going
to see the same levels of support that we get during our
games at home. Its really nice that were going to have
our own new home arena. There were questions about
Luzhniki that was the real home of Dinamo for many
years and in the end we got our brand new and modern
stadium. Its not much bigger than Luzhniki in terms of
capacity and is really nice. The last few games at home
have shown that our fans still love us. So Id like to express
my gratitude for that. We hear you and you help us!
What kind of souvenirs would you recommend for fans
of foreign national teams? I guess the most common
thing to get is a matryoshka. Another truly Russian souvenir thats easy to transport is the ushanka hat. I wouldnt
recommend valenki because not many people will actually wear them.
What are your expectations for the Russian national
team at the Hockey World Championships? Im a patriot
first and foremost and I am going to show my support. If it
were up to me, Id try to help the team as much as I could.
I know that we have every chance to win and so were going to hope for the best, especially since its going to take
place here at home in Russia.
Which teams are the favorites at this Championship?
Who has a chance to get to the semi-finals, for example? This is not an easy question. If everything goes
as planned, no one gets injured and everyones available
(you have to keep in mind that the NHL season will still be
on at that time), then itll be very hard to pick a favorite.
The quality of hockey is quite high and among the leading national teams we can name six countries. Like I said,
if everyones healthy and available then these will be very
serious teams to contend with so well just have to wait
and see. I hope to God that all our boys will be healthy
but I dont want to wish for anyone to miss the play offs
on purpose. I think its going to be a fun and amazing
championships!
What helps you cool your nerves before an important

game? I dont really get worried or nervous anymore because there have been many situations in the past which I
have had to deal with psychologically and now know how
to react to whatever comes my way. Its more of a feeling
of responsibility ahead of an important game or moment.
You have to always be fully conscious of whats going on,
what your role is and how you can influence the result of
the game.
Do you have a special ritual before getting out on the
ice? There are things that I do automatically, sure, but as
far as rituals go I dont believe that having a shower or getting up on your left foot will make your team win.
Photo by Sergey Babunov
March - May 2016
19
Where to eat
Where to eat
Within the same Moscow city block you can find both good
and bad service, five-star fine dining and hot dog snack vans.
Muscovites love going out, so most restaurants tend to fill
up quickly. To be sure of getting a table, make sure to book
in advance. Be aware that many restaurants morph into bars
and clubs in the later hours of the evening, so make early reservations if you want some peace and quiet. Tipping is one
Western tradition that Russians are making their own. Tip for
good service only - around ten percent is considered fair.
Our price guide is based on the average price of
a main course:
0 - 800Rbl
800 - 1,500Rbl
1,500 - 2,000Rbl 2,000Rbl plus
Russian and Ukrainian

Cafe Chekhov
Sitting next to the Chekhov theatre, the interior here has
been inspired by the great playwrights era. The dining
room is decorated in beautiful bright white with art nouveau cornices, stained glass lamps and even the waitresses
wear Edwardian costume. Chekhov boasts to serve new
Russian cuisine. Their version of borsch with apples in it
is a welcome innovation. Service can be frustratingly slow
at times so dont be shy with the staff.QKamergersky per.
3, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 629 06 16, www.cafechekhov.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. . PASW
Cafe Pushkin
This aristocratic restaurant is extremely famous with local
business men and passing tourists. It used to be known as
the citys only upper class restaurant where you could eat
European standard food and talk freely without being disturbed by the roaming ears of KGB men. The Russian and
French cuisine recalls Tsarist times and on the first floor there
is a sophisticated 24-hour caf and a restaurant called the
Library Room, which has a splendid view of Tverskoy Bulvar.
QB2, Tverskoy bul. 26a, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 739
00 33, www.cafe-pushkin.ru. The first floor open 24hrs,
the second floor 12:00 - 23:30. . PAVEW
SYMBOL key
P Air conditioning
A Credit cards accepted
E Live music
S Take away
T Child-friendly
W Wifi
V Home delivery
L Guarded parking
Dacha na Pokrovke
Spread over the upper floor of a crumbling medieval mansion this caf/restaurant with its collection of Soviet and
pre-Soviet armoires, radios, telephones and crockery of
the type youd usually find at a flea market, certainly has a
special kind of charm. The menu focuses on simple Russian
classics while in the summer months a barbeque grill kicks
off in the leafy garden out front with succulent shashlik.
Live music most evenings.QE3, Pokrovsky bul. 18/15
(entrance from Podkolokolny per.), MKitay Gorod, tel.
(+7) 499 764 99 95, www.dacha-na-pokrovke.ru. Open
12:00 - 24:00. . PAESW
Korchma Taras Bulba
This popular Ukrainian restaurant chain is great fun in a
kitsch style. They serve hearty traditional Ukrainian food,
although you do have an option to get most dishes in small
portions so you can taste a lot of everything. Entertainment
is provided by the dancing waiters and the amusingly terrible English translations of their dishes.QD4, Pyatnitskaya
ul. 14, bldg.1, MNovoskuznetskaya, tel. (+7) 495 951 37
60, www.tarasbulba.ru. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00
- 02:00. . PAS
Mari Vanna
Bookings for this popular restaurant are essential as the idea is
that you are eating as if at a friends house. With a reservation
safely made the door to the flat will be unlocked for you and
youll be invited in to dine on traditional Russian home food
such as borsch, pelemeni and pirogi in a cute little place designed to look like an old (but unbroken) Russian flat. The food
itself is just plain good and filling but the service and homely
atmosphere, complete with toys for the kids and the odd
family pet trotting around certainly make it a memorable experience.QB2, Spiridonievsky per. 10a, MPushkinskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 650 65 00, www.marivanna.ru. Open 09:00
- 24:00, Open 09:00 until last guest. . PAVSW
Asian and Indian

Aozora
They say that once you've eaten sushi in Japan you can't really
go back to eating it anywhere else? Well, what about Moscow
restaurant full of Japanese people eating sushi there? We will
admit Aozora is located in a large hotel, but nevertheless.The
interior here is an effective mix of gold leaf, samurais and steely
grey and the menu doesn't disappoint. As well as sashimi and
sushi/rice boxes, there are great udon soups, grilled fish, tempura and for the fat wallets - real Kobe beef.QHotel Sputnik,
Leninsky pr. 38, MLeninsky prospect, tel. (+7) 495 930 58
30, www.aozzora.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. . PAVW
Darbars at Starosadsky
Darbars is known for the authentic fresh Indian food which
at one time could only be found in the hotel Sputnik. The
chef and staff are the same as in the Maharaja and continue
their tradition of renowned Indian hospitality, welcoming
you with a complimentary crispy papadum starter. Follow
this with a wide choice of meat, fish and vegetarian dishes
all prepared according to traditional methods, and to whatever level of spiciness takes your fancy. Also at Hotel Sputnik,
Leninsky pr. 38, 16th floor, (metro Leninsky pr.) .QD3, Starosadsky per. 2/1, MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 621 98 44,
www.darbar.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. . PAVSW
Mr Lee
Dressed up like a colonial home in South East Asia Mr Lee mixes
stylish Asian accessories with an old English library style topped
off with elaborate modern light fittings. The menu crosses the
whole of Asia, from sushi to sweet and sour pork, Vietnamese
spring rolls all the way to Tom Yam and exotic chai. The big
hits are found in the Thai section, while the Chinese doesn't
really hold its own and is a bit bland in comparison.QC2, Ul.
Kuznetsky most 7, MKuznetsky Most, tel. (+7) 495 628 76
78, novikovgroup.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 02:00. . PAESW
Shanti
The unusual music somewhere between trance and whale
sound, combined with the Buddha statues, dragon motifs
and dark lighting, can make this place feel like some kind
of odd spa retreat. The menu offers only foodie forms of
wellness though. Best described as Asian fusion, they have
loads of different spring rolls, imaginative wok dishes as
well as soups to name a few. If you find it a little expensive
try the equally excellent, but more relaxed shanti buffet'
next door.QD2, Myasnitsky proezd 2/1, MKrasnye Vorota, tel. (+7) 495 783 68 68, www.shanti.ru. Open 12:00
- 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. . PAESW
Turandot
This is as chic as it gets. Exquisite wines, live classical music
on a revolving podium, hand painted furniture and a fireplace
makes this a place for all those who need or want to impress
their company. The service is remarkably good (they even
bring separate tables for the ladies handbags), and professional. If you don't get a light feeling in your head from the
wine, you'll surely get one from the orchestra playing on a
rotating stage. Rumour has it that the cost of building Turandot exceeded 25US$ million.QB2, Tverskoy bul. 26/3, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 739 00 11, www.turandot-palace.ru.
Open 12:00 - 24:00. . PAESW
Beer Restaurants
British Queen
British Queen wears its monarchist tendencies on its
sleeve - from the Beefeater doorman to the snug of the
Queen Victoria bar. But while it looks like a reconstruction of a typical British boozer, and it boasts the welcome
sight of beers from Cornwall's St. Austell Brewery among
the usual suspects on tap, closer inspection reveals it to
be surprisingly Russian. Not only is the menu monolingual,
it also steers away from typical pub grub in favor of the
soups, salads and zakusky of a Pivnoi Restoran.QC2, Ul.
Bol. Dmitrovka 5/6, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 226
23 23, britishqueen.ru. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri 10:00 06:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 06:00. . PAEW
Maslenitsa and Bliny

The week before Lent (post in Russian) is known as
Maslenitsa and is one of the most popular Russian traditions. Running from March 7th to the 13th, and know in
other cultures as Mardi Gras or Carnival, it gives an opportunity to fatten up for a whole week in preparation for
40 long days and nights of fasting. Though Maslenitsa
has been absorbed into Ortodox tradition, it has ancient
pagan roots and coincides with the period when the
ancient Slavs would celebrate the end of winter and the
arrival of spring (regardless of the fact that it is probably
still snowing), hence many pagan activities; such as the
burning of a scarecrow representing winter, are key elements of Maslenitsa.
Throughout the week you will find restaurants and cafes
across town promoting special pancake (bliny) menus,
while in the citys major parks such as - Gorky Park,
Sokolniki, Muzeon, and Sad Baumana, there will be
special traditional events and concerts organized daily, as
well as mounds of pancakes on offer. A special Maslenitsa
area will also be organized on Pl. Revolutsii (near Red
Square) where you can buy pancakes, listen to folk music,
try your hand at traditional crafts and join in some wacky
traditional fun and games.
Bliny pancakes, an indispensable part of Russias culinary tradition and come stuffed with sweet or savoury
fillings limited only by ones imagination. Typical savoury
favourites: ham, caviar, cheese, mushrooms, sour cream,
pate or boiled eggs and cabbage. On the sweeter side
you can have it with jam or vareniye (chunky, sweet fruit
preserve), honey, tvorog (sweet Russian version of cottage
cheese) or condensed milk.
Kozlovica
Keep an eye to the sky to spot this traditional Czech
pub from the street. In this medieval hall with carved
wooden furniture, you will find no nonsense wholesome Czech food, including the famous beer sausages, accompanied by top quality authentic Czech
beer, Velkopopovicky Kozel, served at the optimum
temperature of 10-12 degrees, at which the locals say
it releases its true flavour.QD4, Pyatnitskaya ul. 29,
MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7) 495 258 28 23, www.
kozlovica.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 01:00. . PA V S W
March - May 2016
21
Where to eat
Pilsner Paveletskaya
Already seeing almost three million people through its
doors since its founding in 2005, the Pilzner chain has sold
a staggering 3,000 tons of local Czech beer. Head chef,
Robert Masopust, brings traditional meat heavy Czech
cuisine straight from Prague, where classic beer sausages dominate the menu, although a fine choice of other
specialties and large salads are on offer as well. Also at
Pokrovka 15/16 (Chistye Prudy), 1-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya
ul. 1 (Mayakovskaya), ul. Bol. Polyanka 44/2 (Polyanka),
Presnensky Val 4/29 (ul. 1905 goda).QD5, Ozerkovskaya
nab. 56, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 951 86 33, www.
pilsner.ru. Open 12:00 - 01:00. . PASW
The White Hart PUb
A new English pub opened its doors at Kuznetsky Most the heart of the city! The White Hart Pub's interior is just
as stunning as the exterior thanks to the efforts of designers from Old Blighty. There's two whole floors of authentic English pub spirit created with the help of dark wood,
warm brown tones and big TV screens on the wall for you
to watch Chelsea vs Arsenal and other sports, of course!
An international menu of English, Irish and European
dishes means we can also call White Hart Pub a gastropub. Beer connoisseurs have more than 16 different sorts
to choose from. On weekends the place really comes alive
with live concerts and themed parties.QC-2, ul. Neglinnaya 10, MKuznetsky Most, tel. (+7) 495 636 28 55,
www.whitehart.ru. Open 10:00 - 00:00, Thu - Sat 10:00
- 06:00. . PAW
Cafes & Bakeries

Bublik
Set across the bright surroundings of a 19th Century
house on one of the citys most verdant boulevards, this
delightful deli style bakery is an inviting place to sit and
enjoy a coffee and a pie or a real sandwich (as opposed
to the slice of bread and salami combo that sometimes
passes for sandwiches in Russia). The staff work well and
with grace, despite having to wear bizarre giant chefs
hats and everything is fresh. The only thing they need is
more cushions for the hard wooden chairs.QB2, Tverskoy bul. 24, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 629 13
42, www.ginza.ru. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00
- 02:00. . PA S W
Jeffreys Coffee
In Jeffreys you pay for the time you are at this American
coffee bar. Their professional barista prepares great drinks
and during the day you can sit and relax and perhaps
get a little work done. In the evening this bar becomes
jazzy, with live music and a homey atmosphere. You can
buy a guest card for 350 rubles and spend the whole
day enjoying coffee, tea, cold drinks, sweets and snacks.
What generosity in Moscow these days!QD2, Ul. Maroseyka 15, MKitay-Gorod, tel. +7 495 623 87 77, www.
jeffreyscoffee.ru. Open 08:00 - 23.00, Sat, Sun 10:00 23:00. . PAW
Where to eat
Khleb and Co
This swanky little bakery, near the Church of Christ the Saviour is just the spot to pick up a lunch time snack, breakfast
croissant or a crusty fresh loaf to go with that soup youre
planning for dinner. Service is accommodating, packaging
is slick and everything is baked according to the French
bakery tradition. Also at Chistoprudny bul. 12/4 (metro
Chistye Prudy).QB4, Ul. Ostozhenka 3, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 926 091 15 98, www.eatout.ru. Open
08:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. . PASW
Le Pain Quotidien
This Belgian bakery brings its rustic down-to-earth bread
philosophy to Moscow. Long wooden tables, delicious coffee
served in bowls perfect for dipping your croissant in, Belgian
tartines (open-face sandwiches), salads and cheese boards
are all on offer. Many locations have excellent street terraces
including this one just a short distance from Red Square. Has
numerous locations across the city including at Evropeisky
Shopping Centre, Pl. Kievskogo Vokzala, Pyatnitskaya ul.
6/1, bldg. 1 and Lesnaya ul. 5.QC2, Kamergersky per. 5/6,
MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 984 90 94, www.lpq.ru. Open
07:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 23:00. . PASW
Caucasian
Dzhon Dzholi
The reason you really come here is to eat though, and for anyone new to Georgian food this is a good and easily accessible
introduction. Khachapuri and huge shashlik of course top the
bill, but they also have other well-formed local delights hidden
in there too like mchadi (sweetcorn fritters) and chicken chkmeruli (garlic chicken) which should excite the taste buds. Their
huge covered summer terrace, is almost as big as the restaurant
itself.QB2, Tverskaya ul. 20, blgd. 1, MPushkinskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 650 55 67, www.jonjoli.ru. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Fri
11:00 - 05:00, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. . PASW
Noev Kovcheg
The rich traditional Armenian dcor, low lighting, and even a
pond of tropical fish Noev Kovcheg as a destination of Moscow's finest. The venue was opened on the 17th of the 7th
month - the day when Noah's ark is said to have ran aground.
The menu offers many classic shish kebab dishes, backed up
by a plethora of fine wines.QD3, Maly Ivanovsky per. 9,
MKitai-Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 917 07 17, www.noevkovcheg.
ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. . PAVSW
Sakhli
Sakhli is a class act with a menu developed from old Georgian family recipes the excellent lobio kakhetinsky (kidney
beans with onions and spices), the irresistible cheese khinkali
(giant cheese filled dumplings) and the grilled meats. A mix
of cold pkhali (a kind of thick Georgian dip) featuring aubergines, spinach and sweet peppers is great for groups, while the
desserts are nicely displayed to help you make up your mind
about how to finish up an excellent meal.Q1, Bol. Karetny
per. 6, bldg.1, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 699 91 71,
www.sahli.ru/en. Open 12:00 - 23:00. . PAESW
Saperavi
Saperavi deals in contemporary Georgian cuisine in contemporary surroundings. The menu does hold good classics
like an excellent meaty take on the classic red bean lobio
and a very cheesy khachapuri (stuffed cheese bread), but
also adds its own twists on things, as for example with the
mint and cheese khachapuri. They do an excellent job of
explaining the ins and outs of all the exciting dishes on offer and how best to accompany them and if your here at a
weekday lunch time the bounteous meal deals are a steal.
They also have a restaurant on Pokrovka ul. 5, bldg. 5.Q1,
1-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya ul. 27, MBelorusskaya, tel.
(+7) 499 623 89 93, www.saperavicafe.com. Open 11:00 24:00, Thu - Sat 11:00 - 01:00. . PAVSW
European
Bjrn
In the evenings this laconic, nature-inspired and utterly
Scandinavian place has very few free tables. The secret
to Bjrn's success is, of course, the typical contemporary
Scandinavian approach to gastronomy: an abundance of
rich, imaginative flavors harmonic with nature without
any pretentiousness. The head chef - straight from Denmark - ensures that everything guests taste is in complete
accordance with the best northern cuisines have to offer.
Scandinavian specialties such as venison, salmon, herring
and cod taste even better with a friendly staff and a delightful northern drinks menu!QD4, Pyatnitskaya ul. 3,
MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7) 495 953 90 59, www.bjrn.
ru. Open 12:00 - 23:00. . PAW
Extra Virgin
The simple and chic interior of this Italian-style restaurant
attracts many Muscovites and expats during the day. A
complimentary olive plate is served withyou guessed
its - extra virgin olive oil and the olives taste as if they came
straight from the tree. The friendly staff serves up delicious
pizzas, pastas and risottos as well as fresh, tender fish and
meat from the grill. This vibrant restaurant satisfies every occasion, whether you want to have a quick business
lunch or a cosy dinner with friends.QE2, Ul. Pokrovka 17,
MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 967 102 71 97, www.evgrill.ru.
Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. . PAW
Flotilla Radisson restaurant
One of the easiest and most appetizing ways to get to
know Moscow is to take a dinner cruise with Flotilla Radisson Royal. Whatever the weather, this fleet of comfortable vessels offers an attractive menu with a slight Italian
accent as it plies a route along the Moskva River, taking
in a series of key city sights. Having invited many guests
to Moscow to join us on the route, it's regularly got the
thumbs-up, and with winter fast approaching it's already
time to start thinking about breaking the ice - literally and
figuratively - over a tasty risotto on the water.QA3, Flotilla Radisson Royal Moscow, Taras Shevchenko nab.,
Hotel Ukraina pier, MKievskaya, tel. (+7) 495 228 55 55,
www.radisson-cruise.ru. . PTAW
Savva
Hotel Metropol's restaurant is named after the hotel's
founder, famous Russian merchant Savva Mamontov, and
this fine dining establishment honors his memory quite
well. The terrace opens up to views of the Bolshoy Theater and the Kremlin. A menu composed by Estonian chef
Andrey Shmakov showcases the best of Scandinavian,
French, Italian and Russian cuisine, with an emphasis on
fish. The dishes come in reasonable portions and are both
original and delicious. The extensive drinks selection - with
a range of differently-priced beverages- guarantees that
you can accompany your meal with a good bottle of wine.
QC2, Hotel Metropol, Teatralny proezd 2, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 499 501 78 00, www.savvarest.ru. Open
12:00 - 24:00. . PAW
Scandinavia
An icon amongst Moscow's expat scene, Scandinavia has
been providing smiley service for almost twenty years
now. This restaurant offers a simple menu of Swedish
goodies such as gravadlax, baltic herring and meatballs.
Not everything is from the north, as their bar menu also
has a hefty and popular burger. The central location and
calm international atmosphere means there are more than
a few suits and ties dropping in after work and especially
on Fridays service can get slow.QB2, Maly Palashevsky
per. 7 (enter from Tverskaya ul.19), MTverskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 937 56 30, www.scandinavia.ru. Open 12:00 24:00. . PTASW
March - May 2016
23
Where to eat
Spring is in the air!
Enjoy Moscows terraces! Now that Spring is finally here
the citys numerous restaurants and cafes have opened
up their terraces and verandas, where you can relax and
enjoy the first rays of the sun. Starting from May Moscow
is filled with al fresco drinking and dining options from
the cafes lined up along the citys main walking streets
Stary Arbat and Kamergersky pereulok, to the open
roofs and balconies of old factories and swanky high rise
shopping centres and on into the secluded gardens and
courtyards of the citys back streets.
Where to eat
International
Italian
Carlson
Carlson is a rooftop restaurant with a great lookout onto
Red Square. This place doesn't only provide a feast for the
eyes, however; a menu will satisfy the stomach as well.
Conveniently located close to the Tretyakov Gallery and
the Novokuznetskaya station. If you're planning a weekend
visit, make sure to reserve a table in advance.QD4, Ovchinnikovskaya nab. 20, bldg.1, MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7)
495 280 04 28, www.ginza.ru/msk/restaurant/karlson.
Open 12:00 - 24:00. . PTAESW
Jamie's Italian
Mamma mia, it's finally here! Fans of affordable, no-frills authentic Italian can now find a safe haven in Jamie's Italian right
across from Moscow's Kremlin. Since its founding in Oxford
in 2008, Jamie's Italian has spread to over 40 cities worldwide
but remained true to Jamie's passion for the Italian way of life:
good food for everyone, no matter what. The menu offers
everything you would expect to find in a restaurant aspiring
to the rustic Italian feel - food and beverage-wise - without
breaking the bank!QC2, Okhotny Ryad 2, Modny Season
Shopping Mall, 2 floor, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 968
544 92 35/(+7) 910 421 47 47, www.jamieoliver.com. Open
10:00 - 24:00. . PTAKSW
Deti Raika
It's hard to miss this place just off the Arbat and close to the
conservatory and theatres. The colourful exterior with a terrace outside is inviting to many musicians, actors and journalists who make this their favourite hangout. Deti Raika or
Children of Paradise is a French film directed in 1945 and
the owner's favourite film. With live music in the weekends,
ranging from jazz to lounge and even French chansons this
place comes recommended.QB3, Nikitsky bul. 25, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 697 19 42, www.detirayka.ru. Open
12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. . PTAEW
Dacha na Pokrovke
QE3, Pokrovsky bul. 18/15 (entrance from Podkolokolny per.), MKitay-Gorod, tel. (+7) 499 764
99 95, www.dacha-na-pokrovke.ru. Open 12:00 24:00. . PAESW
I Like Wine
QE2, Ul. Pokrovka 16, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7)
495 928 88 59, www.ilikebar.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00,
Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. . PAEW
Noev Kovcheg
QD3, Maly Ivanovsky per. 9, MKitai-Gorod, tel.
(+7) 495 917 07 17, www.noevkovcheg.ru. Open
12:00 - 24:00. . PAVSW
Palazzo Ducale
QB2, Tverskoy bul. 3, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495
978 71 73, www.palazzodukale.ru. Open 08:00 24:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. . PAESW
Turandot
QB2, Tverskoy bul. 26/3, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495
739 00 11, www.turandot-palace.ru. Open 12:00 24:00. . PAESW
Savva
QC2, Hotel Metropol, Teatralny proezd 2, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 499 501 78 00, www.savvarest.ru.
Open 12:00 - 24:00. . PAW
Scandinavia
QB2, Maly Palashevsky per. 7, MTverskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 937 56 30, www.scandinavia.ru. Open
12:00 - 24:00. . PTASW
Zafferano
Q3, Lotte Plaza shopping centre, Novinsky bul.
8, MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) 495 258 93 05, www.
zafferanorest.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. . PAW
Izia Grill
Falafel and hummus are the new sushi and Izia Grill is embracing the trend. It's a loosely Jewish-themed restaurant on the
site of a much-loved Italian place, and while the new dcor
is hardly revolutionary the change in cuisine is striking. Aside
from the falafel, a wide range of hot dogs also get a thumbsup. QB5, Ul. Lva Tolstogo 16, MPark Kultury, tel. (+7) 495
755 87 27, www.izia-grill.ru. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat,
Sun 24h. . PAESW
Townhouse
The head chef has a special knack for everything grilled
so a steak or grilled fish/seafood simply cannot be missed!
The warm octopus salad is the most delightful starter for
any meal. An aprs lunch or dinner coffee/tea can be best
enjoyed in the bar area with its dimmed down lights, extra
comfortable arm chairs and a growing library in the upstairs area, which is also suitable for cocktail receptions
and other events ranging from book readings to jazz band
performances.QD5, Mercure Moscow Paveletskaya
Hotel, ul. Bakhrushina 11, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495
720 53 03, www.mercure.com. Open 07:00 - 23:00. .
PTASW
Uilliam's
An open kitchen in the middle of the restaurant ensures
the chefs are constantly on their toes and also keeps the
restaurant warm and noisy and the air constantly smelling
of something tasty. The dishes on offer are of a great standard - freshly grilled fish is one of the favourites, while the
leafy salads and flavoursome soups are also worth a bite.
QB2, Mal. Bronnaya ul. 20a, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7)
495 650 64 62, www.uilliams.ru. Open 10:30 - 24:00.
. PASW
MoMo
Named as an amalgamation of mozzarella and Montasia
in Northern Italy, Momo proudly promises the best of Italian food, offering many meat and fish dishes alongside
the classic pizza and pasta, and a selection of French and
Italian vintage wines. Its business class clientele are spread
across three main rooms, the largest of which resembles
a summer conservatory complete with cushioned wicker
chairs.QD5, Pyatnitskaya ul. 66, bldg. 2, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 953 95 20, www.momorest.ru. Open
11:00 - 24:00. . PASW
Palazzo Ducale
Pallazo Ducale is about as close as you may ever come to
dining in a palace, the kind of majestic, luxurious setting
that perhaps only royalty are accustomed to. Though the
price is well above average the restaurant has a legitimate
case to suggest it merely reflects its quality. The restaurant
is renowned for its table service in both breakfast room
and main restaurant, both meeting the highest expectations.QB2, Tverskoy bul. 3, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495
978 71 73, www.palazzodukale.ru. Open 08:00 - 24:00,
Sat, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. . PAESW
Seafood
Gastronomica-Fish
This is definitely one of the best fish restaurants in Moscow. On the main menu there's things like Chilean sea
bass, turbot and sole to choose from, as well as the closer
to home trout and salmon, all of which can be cooked any
number of ways from baked in a coal stove to steamed
with wine - delicious! There's also a good range of seafood
based salads, soups, pastas and risottos - we particularly
liked the sterlet consomme - as well as mouthwatering
mussels to start.QLeninsky pr. 57, MLeninsky pr., tel.
(+7) 495 641 11 43, www.gastronomicafish.ru. Open
12:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:30. . PAVSW
To read about even more restaurants

in Moscow and find out about all the latest gigs
check out our website moscow.inyourpocket.com
March - May 2016
25
Torzhok
Where to eat
Vegetarian
Vegetarianism appeared
in Russia in the 14th century through the followers of the Lenten mode
of life. In the beginning
of the 20th century Moscow had a blooming vegetarian culture. However,
the revolution of 1917
stopped all that as it was considered to be a reflection
of bourgeois ideology. Nowadays it is again slowly
becoming popular. While your friends may think that
eating only potatoes and mushrooms for a couples of
weeks will do, for a pleasant meat free stay in Moscow
you need more nutrition.
Avocado
QD-2, Chistoprudny bul. 12/2, MChistye Prudy, tel.
(+7) 495 621 77 19, www.avocadocafe.ru. Open 10:00
- 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. . PASW
Cafe Sok
QC-4, Lavrushinsky per.15, bldg.1, MTretyakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 953 79 63, www.cafe-cok.ru. Open
11:00 - 23:00. . PASW
Fresh
QC-2, Ul. Bol. Dmitrovka 11, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7)
965 278 90 89, www.freshrestaurant.ru. Open 11:00 23:00. . PASW
Jagannath
QC-2, Ul. Kuznetsky Most 11, MKuznetsky Most, tel.
(+7) 495 628 35 80, www.jagannath.ru. Open 10:00 23:00. . PAVESW
russian Easter
Due to the fact that the
Orthodox Church follows
a different calendar to
its Western counterparts
Easter Sunday often falls
on a different date. This
year Western churches
will celebrate Easter on
March 27, while in Russia
it falls a few weeks later on May 01. Easter is one of the
most important holidays in the Russian religious calendar and many churches which would not normally have
regular services, such as St. Basils, also mark the occasion. Most religious Russians mark Easter by going to
midnight mass and enjoying an Easter feast. Kulich (a
puffy raisin cake) and decorated boiled eggs are usually
an important part of the festive meal. Note that there are
no public holidays at Easter and the city will be working
as normal on Easter Monday.
Porto Maltese
The popular Porto Maltese chain has opened a new venue,
continuing the traditions of excellent seafood. The dcor
has a strong sea-faring flavor, matching a menu which offers more than 20 different types of fish and seafood - all of
which are regularly flown in direct from the Med. The buzare'
fish soup is regarded as classic warmer, while exotic offerings
include swordfish and skate wings as well as all the usual
fishy favorites.QBusiness center Monarch, Leningradsky
pr. 31a, bldg. 1, MDinamo, tel. (+7) 495 232 04 85, www.
portomaltese.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. . PASW
Sirena
Ahoy there matey - welcome aboard Moscow's most established seafood restaurant. The interior is very much
new Russian opulence with a fish tank floor, a wood paneled interior resembling a ship's cabin and staff dressed
in naval outfits. Admire the day's catches in the ice beds
before the chef grills them up to perfection or pick out a
live lobster for the pot. Sirena's menu also features a long
list of top quality European dishes made from fabulous
crab, sturgeon and scallop and more as well fresh oysters.
QD1, Bol. Spasskaya ul. 15, MSukharevskaya, tel. (+7)
495 608 14 12, www.novikovgroup.ru/restaurants/
sirena/. Open 12:00 - 24:00. . PAESW
Steak Houses
Butchery Bar and Grill
A leather bound menu offering platters to share, steaks and
other cuts of meat all cooked to tender perfection leaves
you in no doubt as to the restaurant's culinary focus. The
shadowy interior with minimalist decoration has the feeling
of a sophisticated living room, albeit one complete with a
large bar, and indeed the customers here seem to happily
relax as if at home.QBaumanskaya ul. 54, bldg. 1, MBaumanskaya, tel. (+7) 495 229 06 05, www.rmcom.ru/pagebutchery. Open 07:00 - 04:00. . PAW
Goodman
This stylish steak house chain is informal, relaxed, and the food
is to be savoured. Great care is put into your meal and how it
is served. The wood interior plays host to soft leather couches
and all the waiters wear chef's whites. Their menu, although
predominantly meat oriented, has a hefty chunk of salads and
seafood.QD5, Paveletskaya pl. 2, bldg. 1, MPaveletskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 775 98 88, www.goodman.ru. Open 10:00 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. . PAESW
Louisiana American Steakhouse
Ranging from the standard rib-eye steak to the deliciously
tender flank steak, cuts of veal and lamb, you can choose from
Australian, Irish and American, grain-fed or grass-fed steaks
too. Although sides such as fries have to be ordered separately,
they're not very expensive additions, and for the less devoted
carnivores, a Tex-mex menu and salads are also on offer. QD4,
Pyatnitskaya ul. 30, bldg. 4, MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7)
495 951 42 44, www.louisianasteakhouse.com. Open 11:00
- 24:00, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. . PASW
Ancient city between

Moscow and St. Petersburg
By Luc Jones
Russians love to tell you how their country is one of contrasts; recent statistics show that around 80% of foreigners who visit never actually step outside of Moscow or
St.Petersburg, and are therefore left with a rather lop-sided
view of what they perceive to be Russia. Venturing further
afield is where things start to get interesting and Torzhok
is a likely candidate for the good, the bad and the ugly all
thrown into in.
Begin with getting there. Reaching the Koltsevaya liniya exit
of Komsomolskaya metro station, turn right directly to the
central entrance of Leningradsky station. Those who chose
the opposite exit by mistake will understand that by fighting the way to Leningradsky station through the plethora of
elektrichka kiosks, fast food stalls and oversized babushkas
carrying double their weight in sacks heading out to, or back
from the dacha. Yet the moment you step on to the slick Sapsan heading north, youre suddenly in a different world. The
train is spotlessly clean, the ticket inspectors are impeccably
dressed and polite, and the carriages are either heated, or
air conditioned, depending the time of year. An hour later
you arrive in Tver and enter the dank bus station with what
you at first believe to be a collection of homeless bums, who
are in fact other passengers waiting to catch their dieselfumed bus somewhere no sane person wants to go. The ride
itself, along bumpy roads is an adventure which should be
experienced first-hand, rather than simply read about!
vation since. And it shows. However, dig under the surface

a little and youll be glad that you did. Begin with a walk
along the embankment of the Tvertsa river and the place
begins to liven up; there are the usual collection of oniondomed churches and pretty houses. Dont expect to find
many souvenirs on sale, or anything aimed at tourists for
that matter as youll probably be the only one, bar a few
church-goers.
Torzhok is said to date back to 1139 although youll do well
to spot anything this old. Coming close, though is the old
monastery of Saints Boris and Gleb, which has been
partially restored and is still undergoing considerable restoration work which hopefully, in a few years will bring it
back to its former glory, even though it is likely to require a
combination of buckets more cash and some intervention
from above!
Just down the road is The Saviour-Transfiguration Cathedral which surely must win the prize for the most beautiful building in town, which was founded in 1374 even if
much of what youll marvel at was in fact consecrated in
1822. Its conveniently located at a traffic junction so can
be photographed from all angles.
Torzhok aint big; everything you need is within walking
distance of everything else!
Staying there
although Torzhok can be done on a day trip from Moscow,
you can sample the towns delights a little longer by staying
the night. The unoriginally named Torzhok Hotel on ul.
Vokzalnaya 6 (www.torzhokotel.ru) did the job; comfortable doubles cost 2,400Rbl per night and included breakfast.
The restaurant served up a pretty good (and inexpensive)
dinner too, although we were on the edges of a wedding
party. The hotel is a convenient 5 minute walk from both
the bus and train stations (which are next to each other).
getting there
Arriving in Torzhok, youll initially wonder why you bothered. Whilst its a standard, functioning town of around
50,000 inhabitants, most of the buildings were erected
during the Soviet period, and have undergone little renowww.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
Unless you have your own car, the fastest way is to

catch the Sapsan from Moscows Leningradsky Vokzal
to Tver (1 hour) or Lastochka train (1,5 hour), walk to
the bus station (2 minutes) and catch a bus to Torzhok, which runs every 30 minutes or so, which takes
about an hour and a half. There are occasional direct
busses and trains between Moscow and Torzhok, but
these are excruciatingly slow and infrequent.
March - May 2016
27
Nightlife
Nightlife
The original city that doesnt sleep, Moscow has everything
going on under those bright neon signs. Whether youre after
an elite nightclub with a pyrotechnic show and a face control
policy to strike fear into the hearts of grown adults, a dingey
dive or a comfortable English style pub where you can hole
up til the wee small hours, you wont be disappointed.
live music
Cult Club
At first glance it seems like a small underground place,
but there is in fact a whole other huge caf/restaurant
area hidden round the back which really fills up when a
popular DJ is playing - the place can get pretty sweaty and
the air-con works marginally better back there. The music
here hovers around the funk, jazz, reggae, ska genres and
you can regularly catch local break-dancers having a battle
here.QE3, Yauzkaya ul. 5, MKitay-Gorod, tel. (+7) 495
917 57 06, www.cultmoscow.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00,
Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. PENW
DeFAQto
This third venue in the FAQ chain is like a strange cross between
English pub and American bar, with a stage that would suit
stand-up comedy well. The music is similarly confused, although the food is reliable and the booth seating in particular is
nice for smaller groups.QD2, Ul. Bol. Lubyanka 30/2, bldg. 1,
MTurgenevskaya, tel. (+7) 495 624 44 97, www.defaqto.ru.
Open 12:00 - 06:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 24h. PAEW
Kitaisky Lyotchik Jao Da

Dzhao Da is a bizarre fusion of restaurant, bar and club,
attracting a younger and older crowd in equally large
numbers. With live music and drinks flowing, you'll inevitably stumble across a drunk chat or even a Russian toast;
it all adds to the atmosphere. Their salty snacks really hit
the spot so don't worry about that hunger craving after a
few drinks, they have the perfect cure!QD3, Lubyansky
proezd 25, bldg.1, MKitay-Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 624 56
11, msk.jao-da.ru. Open 11:00 - 06:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 08:00. PAEW
Tiki-Bar
In Maori mythology, Tiki was the first man, and in Moscow
Tiki is the very first real Hawaiian themed bar. The inspiration for the hip interior, complete with palm trees, rotan furniture, masks and of course boats, has been taken directly
from the popular Tiki bars, which originated in the Americas
at the beginning of the 20th century. For those who want
a true taste of Hawaii, there are over 100 choices of rum
as well as an exotic choice of cocktails.QA2, SadovayaKudrinskaya ul. 3a, MBarrikadnaya, tel. (+7) 495 767 87
02, www.tiki-bar.ru. Open 24h, Open 24hrs. . PW
Bars
Clubs
MyBar
This is not another elitny hangout with generic Moscow
cocktails and pounding music. My Bars philosophy is to create a welcoming venue for friendly people who are looking
for a relaxed hangout and down-to-earth staff. MyBar is well
and truly a dive bar; especially popular with expats and local office workers looking for a post-work drink and some
fun, it offers a refreshingly laid-back alternative to Moscows
glamour dominated nightlife scene. The music selection
varies vastly, but is usually a good mix of golden oldies, with
some great pop and rock classics to dance to at the weekend. Thursdays are live music nights with free concerts from
rock and blues bands.QC2, Ul. Kuznetsky Most 3, bldg. 2,
MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 916 583 52 79, www.mybar.su.
Open 18:00 - 06:00. PAE
Club Garage
One of Moscow's longest-running clubs (open since 1998),
Garage packs in the crowds for its legendary Wednesday /
Sunday R'nB nights, and Friday / Saturday after parties. The
crowd tends to be young and Russian (although some of
the fashion tastes can be a little extreme), but the friendly
atmosphere and relaxed "face control" makes it a fun
night out for those who don't want to deal with the attitude of Moscow's glamour clubs. Q4, Brodnikov per. 8,
MPolyanka, tel. (+7) 499 238 70 75, www.garageclub.
ru. Open 21:00 - 10:00. PAEW
Bar Strelka
The main headquarters of Moscow's hipster parade, this
bar attached to the Strelka Design Institute has become
a bit more inclusive of regular folk in jeans and suits since
it first opened but is still notorious for the entrance lineup
where they suss out how hip your outfit is before letting
you in. The small dance floor fills or completely empties
depending on the weekend DJs. When its warm outside
the delightful roof terrace with an incredible view is a
lovely place to relax with a drink and a plate of their delicious nibbles.QC4, Red October Chocolate Factory,
Bersenevskaya nab.14, bldg.5, MKropotkinskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 771 74 16, www.barstrelka.com. Open 09:00
- 24:00, Fri 09:00 - 03:00, Sat 12:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 24:00. PTALEW
Hard Rock Cafe
This is the mac-daddy of American style food and fun.
Three levels of rock memorabilia, a bar downstairs and a
central dancefloor on the second floor with a DJ booth
above. Food here is a bit disappointing (this is guacamole?) and their long island iced tea was closer to actual tea
than to any long island tea we remember drinking. They
play rock music, and after 9pm on weekends, there's a
cover charge. The place is pretty popular so get in early
and eat before you go.Q3, Ul. Arbat 44/1, MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) 499 241 43 42, www.hardrockcafe.ru.
Open 11:00 - 24:00. Thu 09:00 until last guest, Fri and
Sat 24h. PAEW
For People by People

For People By People is situated in one of Moscow's prime
spots on the Yakimanskaya embankment, with just the river
Moskva separating it from Krasny Oktyabr. Although surrounded by trendy restaurants, night clubs and galleries, For
People by People has still managed to carve its own niche
with a colourfully decorated interior and lighting, serving a
special gastronomic, conceptual menu and featuring popular European music and some of the best DJs Moscow has
to offer.QC4, Yakimanskaya nab. 4, bldg. 1, MPolyanka,
tel. (+7) 495 737 80 08, www.pplmoscow.ru. Open Fri
and Sat 17:00 - 05:00 . PAEW
Propaganda
A cafe club has a chilled out vibe that is popular with
everyone. Service is attentive and swift so for better or
worse you're never long without a tipple. The food is
reasonably priced portion-wise and the lounge-house
sounds put everyone into their comfort zone. Of an evening, different djs sets kick in.QD2, Bol. Zlatoustinsky
per. 7, MKitay-Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 624 57 32, www.
propagandamoscow.com. Open 11:30 - 06:00, Sat, Sun
12:00 - 06:00. PENW
Zazhigalka
Uncensored Relaxation! Descending to the basement, we
find ourselves in a dark, intimate room. The black walls,
and the red decorations and lighting complete the scene.
In the centre of the room there is of course a pole, where
enchanting girls show off their skills in exotic dance. There
are also VIP rooms and a private cabin. 18+.QLesnaya ul.
43, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 800 333 88 68, www.msk.
russtriptease.com. Open 20:00 - 06:00. PAW
Cocktail Bars
Dream Bar
The name Dream Bar may create an image of a very chic,
strictly face controlled cocktail bar, however the reality is
close to a cosy, jolly pub, despite billing themselves as a
cocktail bar, a pint seems to be an equally popular poison of
choice. Whilst the cocktail list is long and detailed, the prices
are reasonable and the drinks themselves are inventive and
tasty. A popular hangout at the end of the day for the afterwork crowd, the atmosphere is relaxed and the music ambient and mellow. However all this changes come the weekend, when the loud pumping dance music, indicates it's
time to take off the ties and let your hair down.QD2, Myasnitskaya ul. 17, bldg.1, MChistye prudy, tel. (+7) 495 621
77 68, www.dreambar.ru. Open 24hrs. PAW
O2 Lounge
Welcome to the most notoriously glamorous terrace in
Moscow. Just about every visiting celebrity you can think
of has been up at this prohibitively expensive cocktail
lounge and sushi bar. Once the summer kicks in the outside terrace here is guaranteed to be full to brimming with
everyone jostling to get a closer look at the outstanding
view of the Kremlin whilst burning money like there never
was an economic crisis.QC2, The Ritz-Carlton hotel,
Tverskaya ul. 3, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 225 88
88, www.ritzcarltonmoscow.ru. Open 12:00 - 02:00.
PALEBW
March - May 2016
29
What to see
What to see
NEXT TO RED SQUARE
Alexandrovsky Gardens
The gardens in front of the Kremlin walls are an excellent to
take a stroll and get down to some serious people watching as well as admire the sheer scale and immense size of
the Kremlin walls and towers. The biggest essential sight
of the gardens is the tomb of the unknown soldier near to
the entrance to Red Square. A high-kicking guard change
ceremony takes place here every hour in front of the eternal
flame.QC-3, Alexandrovsky sad, MAlexandrovsky Sad.
The Kremlin
The street plan of central Moscow forms an impressively ordered pattern of concentric circles, clearly marking the citys
development outwards over the centuries. In the middle
there is the Kremlin, the fortified hill which houses the political HQ of the planets largest nation. Within the worldfamous red walls nestles a collection of buildings of various
architectural styles. While much is out of bounds to tourists,
being part of the Government and Presidential estate, there
are easily enough treasures open to the public to make the
citadel an essential conquest. There are a number of ticket
booths, the most important being located in Alexandrovsky
Sad (on the west side of the Kremlin), which in itself is a great
people watching place. Having bought your tickets, leave
any large bags in the cloakroom located near the ticket
office, under the gate.Q-3, MAlexandrovsky Sad, tel.
(+7) 495 695 41 46, www.kreml.ru. Open 10:00 - 17:00.
Closed Thu.
Inside the Kremlin

Cathedral of the Archangel Michael
A relative youngster on the Kremlin church scene, this cathedral was erected in 1505 and holds the tombs of Russian
rulers from Ivan I to Tsar Ivan V. It also has more of an Italian
renaissance feel to it with its Corinthian gables and turrets
and white stonework.
Annunciation Cathedral
This imposing cathedral, where Russias Tsars were
christened and married, was built by Pskov architects
in 1482. The frescoes inside are considered to be some
of the most valuable in Moscow given that prominent
artists of the time including Andrey Rublyev (also buried
here), Theophanes the Greek and Prokhor of Gorodetz all
worked on them.
The tickets for special exhibitions can usually

be bought at the entrance to the buildings in
which they are held, although it is advisable
to check before you enter the Kremlin.
Church of the Deposition of the Robes

Taking its name from an ancient festival where the Virgins
robes are transferred from Palestine to Constantinople
(now Istanbul), this is a more modest cathedral nestled
in a corner. Built in 1484 - 1485 by artists from Pskov, this
church notably has stained glass windows. Along with
some fine icons, inside you can also find wooden sculptures from the 15th century.
Cathedral of the Assumption
The grandfather of all the Kremlin churches, the Assumption
Cathedral is the oldest and the biggest. Built in 1475 by Italian architect Aristotle Fiorovanti, this is where Ivan the Terrible was crowned Emperor in 1547 before becoming a stable
for Napoleons horses in 1812. Their soldiers made off with
the chandeliers now hanging overhead, some weighing
over 5 tonnes. The cossacks brought them back after they
caught up with the light-fingered Frenchmen. In 1918 the
last Easter service was held here. Services resumed in 1990.
Kremlin Armoury
You need a separate ticket for the Armoury, the 19th
Century museum purpose-built to house the nations
gob-smacking collection of gold, silver, arms and imperial
clothes and carriages. To prevent overcrowding, Armoury
tickets can only be used after the time printed on them.
They do not give access to the rest of the Kremlin.QThe
Armoury Chamber has seances at 10.00, 12.00, 14.30,
16.30. Admission 300 - 700Rbl. Tickets can be purchased an hour before the seance at the Kremlin ticket
office in Alexandrovsky sad.
DIAMOND FOND
Few visitors to the city are aware of the fact that exhibited within the Armoury building is the Diamond Collection of the Russian State. Here, one can feast their eyes
on the unique corpus of modern and historical jewellery,
enormous diamonds, medals, precious and semiprecious
stones, gold and platinum bars, as well as masterpieces
of jewel craft - namely, the imperial crown and sceptre,
with the famous diamond eagle.QThe Armoury Chamber has seances at 10.00, 12.00, 14.30, 16.30. Admission
300 - 700Rbl. It is advisable to book tickets in advance.
Lenin Mausoleum
On display in various incarnations of his mausoleum since
1924, this is where the waxy, bald and embalmed body of the
founder of the Communist Party is. Visiting here is a no-nonsense event with guards posted at each corner to prod you
forward should you halt at any stage during the viewing. No
bags. No cameras. Theyll search your pockets to make sure
you dont sneak anything. Leave bags in the storage lockers
before going through the metal detectors, he may be dead
but you cant mess with him.QC-3, Red Square, MOkhotny
Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 623 55 27, www.lenin.ru. Open 10:00 13:00. Closed Mon, Fri. Entrance is free.
St. Basils Cathedral (Pokrovsky Sobor)
Russias most recognisable building was built in 1561 to celebrate Ivan the Terribles crucial defeat of the Khan of Kazan,
a victory which secured Moscows position as the regions
dominant city. Visitors used to the vast open spaces of Western European cathedrals will be shocked to find a stone warren of small, intimate chapels, each decorated with countless icons and engravings and soaring in one direction only:
upwards, to the height of the onion domes above. Russias
history is all about a country being simultaneously tugged
towards the west and the east. A visit inside St Basils gives
an invaluable lesson on the importance and undoubted
attractions of the latter.QC-3, Red Square, MOkhotny
Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 698 33 04, www.saintbasil.ru. Open
11:00 - 17:00. From May 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Wed. Admission 100 - 350Rbl.
State Historical Museum
Right on Red Square, this museum consists of two floors offering an extensive foray into Russian history from the ice
ages of the mammoths right up to the 19th century. The first
floor which runs up to the beginning of Peter the Great, and
the 17th century holds many relics and artifacts of historical
interest. Not just the exhibits are of interest, each individual hall
complements its in-house exhibition, such as the Novgorod
and Vladimir Halls with their vivid reconstructions. Upstairs
while it lacks any English explanation, has an abundance of
cool historical tit bits. Like the boots big enough to hide a small
child which are worn to get through a swamp and were worn
in Peter the Greats day, and a great portrait gallery to set you
straight on who exactly was who in the Russian aristocracy.
QC-3, Red Square 1, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 692 37
31, www.shm.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Fri, Sat 10:00 - 21:00.
Closed Tue. Admission 100 - 350Rbl.
river cruises
A cruise along the Moscow-River is one of the best ways
to see the city from its very centre, with unparalleled
views of the sites on both banks. Casting off, we leave
behind the Moscow International Business centre. Beside
the pier is the Ukraina Hotel, the second tallest of Stalins
Seven Sisters. Across the river is the other White House,
the house of the Russian government. A few minutes sailing takes us to the Novodevichy Convent. Under its walls,
Tolstoys Kitty and Levin of Anna Karenina met whilst skating, in reality, its cemetery houses the graves of Chekhov
and Yeltsin and many others. Its pink and white baroque
walls are faced by the thickening forest of the opposite
bank, leading into Sparrow Hills park. The silhouette of
a hammer and sickle peeks out above the treetops, a
glimpse of the gargantuan structure of Moscow State
University, the worlds tallest educational building and
the big sister of the seven. Passing Luzhniki Stadium, we
reach the green banks of fashionable Gorky Park. At the
diversion of the river into the Vodootvodny Canal stands
the controversial statue to Peter the Great marking three
hundred years of the Russian navy. Its creator, Georgian
sculptor Zurab Tsereteli, also headed the reconstruction
of the Church of Christ the Saviour opposite. Looking at
its imposing domes, its hard to believe that this was once
a gigantic outdoor pool. On Bolotny Island, towering over
the rainbow-coloured arches and golden domes of the St
Nicholas church, is the House on the Embankment, built
to house the Soviet elite. From the river weve got perfect
views of the Kremlin and the churches huddled inside it
as we arrive at the heart of Moscow and perhaps Russia
itself. Even after half a millennia St Basils idiosyncratic
domes are still breathtaking; legend has it that its architects were blinded to stop them making something so
beautiful ever again.
QA-3, Taras Shevchenko nab., Hotel Ukraina
pier, MKievskaya, tel. (+7) 495 228 55 55, www.
radisson-cruise.ru. From Pier Ukraina and from
pier Gorky Park boats leave every day starting from
13:00. It is advisable to book tickets well in advance
(tickets can also be bought online). Check the full
schedule and prices online. PAUKW
March - May 2016
31
What to see
Churches
and Monasteries
What to see
Donskoy Monastery
Museums
The late sixteenth century saw the founding of

this well-kept monastery,
originally part of Moscows fortifications. The
surrounding brick walls
include twelve towers
with the main entrance
being decorated by bright
frescoes as you enter. Formerly the headquarters of the Russian Orthodox Church
until 1927, today it is a peaceful abode surrounded by
pleasant parklands and a hub of religious activity very
popular with pilgrims who come to visit the 16th Century
miracle working icon and the holy relics of St. Tikhon. Inside the monastery grounds are bizarrely, a few tanks in
honour of the Churchs efforts in the Great Patriotic War
(WWII), although the real draw of course is the stunning
16th Century churches. The adjoining cemetery is also a
worthy historical site dating back to the 17th Century. Excursions can be organised around the walls and towers.
QDonskaya pl. 1, MShabolovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 952
02 63, www.donskoi.org. Open 07:00 - 19:00. Admission free.
All-Russian Decorative Art Museum

Hidden in a courtyard, this
museum maintains more
than 200,000 pieces of
decorative and folk art from
all over Russia. There are
several beautifully decorated tea sets, plates and
figurines - the porcelain
from the post-revolutionary
Soviet period is especially interesting. Also featured are some
traditional Russian clothes, toys, intricate wood baskets, embroidery and linens. The wood figurine carvings are diverse
and mind-blowingly detailed. The museum also displays
interiors and antique furniture taken from the apartments
of the old Russian nobility in the 18th to 20th centuries. Various workshops for children and excursions in English are also
available. The museums frequent temporary exhibitions are
also worth checking out.QC-1, Delegatskaya ul. 3, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 609 01 46, www.vmdpni.ru. Open
10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 12:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00
- 18:00. Closed Tue and last Mon of the month. Admission
130 - 250Rbl. Children till 7 years old free entrance. NK
Danilov Monastery
Novodevichy Monastery
On the grounds surrounded
by the Kremlinesque walls,
which were built to act as a
fortress, are four cathedrals
including the majestic fouronion globes of Smolensky
Cathedral which dates back
to 1524. It was at Novodevichy that Peter the Great imprisoned his sister Sophia and executed her supporters from
the Streltsy rebellion. Today it is a magnificent and peaceful
cloister with an impressive icon collection. Be sure to look
at the fascinating nearby cemetery too while you are here.
QNovodevichy proezd 1, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 499
246 85 26. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Admission 100 - 300Rbl.
Archaelogy Museum
This small museum is based on top of an archaeological dig
that was worked on during the 1990s before the Okhotny
Ryad shopping centre was build. Large dioramas show how
Moscow was back in the 16th Century when most of the
city was made of wood and the whole area was surrounded
by a strong fortified wall (the remains of which can be seen
here). The most important finds of the dig are on display and
include various pots, crosses, axes and hoards of silver and
copper coins that were buried inside barrels. Although everything is labeled in English, there is sadly not much explanation of the meanings of the finds in the context of everyday medieval life.QC3, Manezhnaya pl.1a, MOkhotny
Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 692 15 67, www.mosmuseum.ru. Daily
10:00 - 20:00, Thu 11:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon and last Fri of
the month. Admission 150 - 300Rbl. PN
This classical monastery,

named after its founder,
Alexander Nevskys son
Danil, has been in the news
of late with the return of
their original 18 church
bells from Harvard in the
US. The Soviets sold them
off for scrap but a benevolent American, Charles
Crane rescued them. The bells were recently returned due
to the efforts (and cash no doubt) of Faberge egg rescuer,
Viktor Vekselberg. Danilov Monastery was the last monastery to be closed under the Soviets and the first to be
reopened under Gorbachev in 1983.QDanilovsky Val
22, MTulskaya, tel. (+7) 495 958 11 07, www.msdm.ru.
Open 6:00 - 21:00. Admission free.
Novospassky Monastery
Situated on the river and
surrounded by gardens, the
walls of this working monastery date from the 1640s.
A quiet place, the brooding five-domed Cathedral
of the Saviour was built in
1645 and attracts a healthy
crowd of observers in the
evening and has lovely frescoes. Women need to cover their heads and if wearing trousers or jeans they need to don a wrap around skirt as well.
QE-5, Krestyanskaya pl.10, MKrestyanskaya Zastava,
tel. (+7) 495 676 77 13, www.novospasskiymon.ru. Open
08:00 - 20:00, Sat and Sun 07:00 - 20:00. Admission free.
Borodino Battle Panorama Museum

It has a collection of weapons, ammunition, uniforms and
graphics, but the main feature is the round canvas painting,
115m wide and 15m high. Standing in the middle of this
panorama you experience up close the heroic battle during
the 1812 war between Russia and Napoleons Grand Army.
250,000 soldiers took part, of which a minimum of 67,000
perished. After Borodino Napoleon took Moscow, the city
he left soon after it was set on fire. The Russian army led by
General Kutuzov then chased the French all the way to Paris.
Interactive displays shed more light on the progress of the
brutal battle although sadly they are only in Russian.QKutuzovsky pr. 38, MPark Pobedy, tel. (+7) 499 148 19 27,
www.1812panorama.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00
- 21:00. Closed Fri, last Thu of the month. Admission 50
- 150Rbl. Free entrance third Sun of the month. NW
Moscow is home to more than 300 churches. The majority of Russians belong to the Russian Orthodox Church,
although, as a result of the fact that Moscow is a multiethnic city, there are many religious denominations, including the Roman Catholic Church and the Seventh-day
Adventist Church. Up until 1917, there were more than
1000 churches in the city.
Cathedral of Christ the Saviour

This is what a new Russian Orthodox church ought to look
like. It is so immense youll be wondering how many blocks
of dynamite the Soviets needed to get rid of the thing the
first time around. That was in 1931. This newly restored example came into being from 1994 until 2000 and is a shiny
beacon for the Russian Orthodox Church at home and a
close replica of the original 19th Century cathedral built
in honour of the victory over Napoleon. The sprawling cathedral houses a museum on the history of the site where
you can see pictures of the giant swimming pool the Soviets built here and the huge Lenin topped skyscraper they
had originally planned for. During excursions (minimum 10
people) you can see the cathedral, museum and the view
from the collonade. QB-4, Ul. Volkhonka 15, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 637 28 47, www.xxc.ru. Open 10:00
- 18:00. Mon 13:00 - 18:00. Admission free. Guided tours
in English for groups for up to 10 people 6,000Rbl (prebooking required call (+7) 495 637 28 47).
Modern Art Centres

ArtPlay
Thanks to the large building on site housing the
British Design School in
Moscow, this former tea
factory has now become
a hub of artistic activity.
In amongst the various
converted red brick factory buildings you will find numerous design studios
and shops selling bespoke interior design works, as well
as large temporary exhibition spaces and small private
galleries. Furthermore Artplay also has its fair share of
cool places to eat and drink. One of the largest roofs of
the complex also has a great cafe-bar with super views
over the surrounding area.QUl. Nizhnaya Syromyatnicheskaya 10, MKurskaya, tel. (+7) 495 620 08 83,
www.artplay.ru. Open 12:00 - 20:00. Admission free.
Multimedia Art Museum Moscow
(MAMM)
This new contemporary
space focuses exclusively
on photography and
video art and regularly
hosts great exhibitions
many of which make
particularly good use of
the cleverly designed
video exhibition rooms.
The central hallway and stairwell is one of a kind for
Moscow with its clean white lines and staircases,
vaguely reminiscent of New Yorks Guggenheim or
the MOMA. A great addition to Moscows burgeoning
contemporary art scene.QB-4, Ul. Ostozhenka 16,
MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 637 11 00, www.
mamm-mdf.ru/en. Open 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon.
Admission 50 - 400Rbl. TAW
Winzavod
A hub of contemporary
galleries and other artistic inspirations on an
industrial factory lot that
used to be a wine factory. There are over ten
galleries with exhibitions
varying from Russian
photography to American and British works. There are
also artists studios, an alternative clothes shop and an
excellent cafe. The location and industrial surroundings
gives the feeling of being on the movie studio back lot.
Q4-y Syromyatnichesky per.1, bldg.6, MChkalovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 917 46 46, www.winzavod.ru.
Open 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. AK
March - May 2016
33
What to see
Gogol House
This house has a very rich
history dating back to the
early 17th century and had
belonged to families of boyars, courtiers, royal councilors, government officials,
army generals and even
the members of the Tolstoy
family. However, the most
famous resident to have
ever inhabited this manor
was none other than Nikolai Vasilievich Gogol, one of the
most preeminent figures of the natural school of Russian
literary realism and author of such classics as The Nose,
Viy, The Overcoat, The Government Inspector and, of
course, Dead Souls. Welcome to the Gogol House Memorial Museum Science Library! Although he had only spent
the last four years of his life here, this is the place where
the writer worked on the second volume of Dead Souls. It
was here that he burnt the manuscripts of the poem, and
in this very house, on February 21st, 1852 that the writer
died. The Gogol House is the only place in Moscow that
keeps these momentous memories alive by combining a
research library of over 250,000 volumes, an exhibition hall
and a memorial museum.QB-3, Nikitsky bul. 7A, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 690 58 81, www.domgogolya.
ru. Open Tue, Wed, Fri 12:00 - 19:00, Thu 14:00 - 21:00,
Sat, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon and last day of the
month. Admission 40 - 120Rbl.
the New project with

Tretyakov gallery
Dear readers, due to our agreement with Russian State
Museum in every issue of our guide we will be publishing the history of one of its masterpieces at a time to
make Russian art closer to you.
Geliy Korzhev,
The Artist
Geliy Korzhev is widely
regarded as the last titan of Russian realism
of the 20th century.
His work is somber and
engages the viewer in
a conversation about
the heavy and oftentimes sensitive topics. The Artist (1961, oil on canvas)
is Korzhev at his finest: all the details are packed in accordance with the nature and the laws of image building and the principle of consequential story telling is
very tightly intertwined with the psychological characteristics of the paintings main characters.
What to see
Institute of Russian Realist Art
There are great examples of the huge scale classic Soviet
realism of Stalins time featuring works by masters of the
genre such as Deneika and Serov, collections inspired by
Cubism as well as new themes of despair, poverty and decay brought up by perestroika and the fall of communism.
There is a free shuttle bus from the metro, otherwise it is
about a 20 minute walk past. Once you reach the former
factory complex, keep following the logo until you reach
building 31.QNovospassky Dvor Business Centre, bldg.
31, Derbenevskaya nab. 7, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495
276 12 12, www.rusrealart.ru/en. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Thu
12:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 50 - 150Rbl, family
tickets 200 - 350Rbl. Free admission the first Tue and the
last Sat of each month.
State Central Museum of Contemporary
History of Russia
Start early in the day with
this one. Theres a whole
century of the most turbulent, convoluted, well documented history to be seen
and absorbed. Housed in a
1780s mansion and former
premises of the Moscow
English Club, this grand dame was also the former Museum
of Revolution. Now that history has moved on, so has the museum, covering all aspects of Russias recent history. English
texts are sporadically situated in the rooms to make more of
the experience. QB-2, Tverskaya ul. 21, MTverskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 699 67 24, www.sovr.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Thu
12:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission
100 - 250Rbl. Children till 16 years old free.
The Pushkin State Museum of Fine Arts
Opened to the public in 1912, this museum was primarily
intended as an educational facility. Coming from the fashion
of that time, it houses a lot of the worlds art in the form
of plaster casts. It also has works by the Old Masters and
representatives of various European schools of painting. In
1924 the museum saw the first addition of a picture gallery,
to be followed in 1948 by the addition of many works from
the 19th century. Its a manageable museum, but be sure
to know which section you are heading. Two buildings sit
side by side - the first grandiose structure houses the old
plastery cast bit, the impressionists are held in a separate
wing for which there is a separate admission charge.QC-3,
Ul. Volkhonka 12, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 609 95
20, www.arts-museum.ru. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Thu 11:00
- 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 150 - 550Rbl. Admission
may vary according to the exhibition.
Take note that most museum ticket offices

close one hour before the official closing time.
Also remember most museums ask you to buy
an extra photography ticket if you would like
to take photos or videos
Tretyakov Gallery
For visitors anxious to uncover the mysteries of the
famous Russian soul, the
Tretyakov Gallery is a place
to start. Founded in 1856
by influential merchant
and collector Pavel Tretyakov and presented as a gift
to the city in 1892, it is the worlds number one museum of
Russian art. Ranging from exquisite and mysterious 12th century icons to the politically charged and prescient canvases
of Russias favourite realist master, Ilya Repin, the collection is
a rich and revealing insight into the history and attitudes of
this long suffering yet inspired people.QC-4, Lavrushinsky
per. 10, MTretyakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 951 13 62, www.
tretyakovgallery.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 10:00 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 150 - 400Rbl. Complex ticket to Tretyakov Gallery on Lavrushinsky per. and Tretyakov
Gallery at Krymsky Val 250 - 700Rbl.
Parks and Gardens

Moscow is known as one of the greenest capitals for good
reason - with over 100 parks, gardens, and squares; there
is always somewhere to provide fresh air, exercise, and an
escape from the citys busy streets. They are also varied
enough to provide something for everyone.
The Moscow Zoo, despite its location in a busy city, feels

large, and peaceful, and is great for children. Here you can
see a huge range of animals, including dolphins, polar
bears, wolves, lions, giraffes, and a Siberian tiger.
Moscow is home to many estates with beautiful grounds, including Kuskovo Park, one of the oldest country estates in
Moscow, which features a palace, a lake, and many small pavilions, one of which houses the ceramics museum. Other such
estates include the Kolomenskoye Museum Estate, and the
Arkhangelskoye Estate, a quiet stately park once owned by
Prince Yusopov. Both Izmailovo and Gorky Park have undergone recent makeovers. Gorky Park is now a wholesome place
to picnic or jog, with many attractions, such as bike hire, pedalos on the ponds, flea markets, and an art gallery. Izmailovo
Park now has modern tennis courts and a pavilion for curling,
together with its many other attractions. Other interesting
parks include the apothecary garden, which was founded by
Peter the Great in 1706, the Muzeon Sculpture Park, which
is the dumping ground for statues from the Soviet Union that
lost their places in other parks, and Vorobyevy Gory (Sparrow
Hills), which affords great views of the city.
Gorky Park
QB5, Krymsky Val 9, MOktyabrskaya, tel. (+7) 495
995 00 20, www.park-gorkogo.com. Open 24h. Admissin free. TLKwW
Izmailovsky Park
QAlleya Bol. Kruga 7, MPartizanskaya, tel. (+7) 499
166 61 19, www.izmailovsky-park.ru. Open 24h. Admission free. TLW
Kolomenskoe Museum Estate
QPr. Andropova 39, MKolomenskaya, tel. (+7) 499 615
27 68, www.mgomz.com. Park open 08:00 - 23:00. Museums open 10:00 - 18:00 and closed Mon. Admission
to park is free. Admission to museums 50 - 150Rbl. N
Kuskovo Park and Museum
QUl. Yunosty 2, MRyazansky pr., tel. (+7) 495 375 31
31, www.kuskovo.ru. Park open 24hrs. Palace, Cave,
Italian House, Dutch House, Big Stone Orangery, Hermitage, American Orangery 10:00 - 18:00. French park
10:00 - 20:00. Close Mon, Tue, last Wed of month. Free
entrance park. Museums 50 - 150Rbl. Guided tours by
prior arrangement. ULN
Moscow Zoo
QA2, Bol. Gruzinskaya ul. 1, MBarrikadnaya, tel. (+7)
499 252 29 51, www.moscowzoo.ru. Open 10:00 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 400Rbl. Days off 500Rbl.
Muzeon Park of Arts
QB5, Krymsky Val 10, MOktyabrskaya, tel. (+7) 985
382 27 32, www.muzeon.ru. Park open 08:00 - 23:00.
Embankment open 24hrs. Admission free. Guided tours
(350Rbl) should be booked in advance (+7) 916 450 41
70. TK
State Museum-Estate Arkhangelskoe
Q5 km Ilinskoe Shosse, MTushinskaya, tel. (+7) 498
653 86 60, www.arhangelskoe.su. Park open daily
10:00 - 21:00. Museums and exhibitions open 10:30 17:00, Sat, Sun and holidays 10:30 - 18:00. Closed Mon,
Tue and last Wed of the month. UNK
Tsaritsyno
QDolskaya ul. 1, MTsaritsyno, tel. (+7) 499 725 72 87,
www.tsaritsyno-museum.ru. Open . Closed Mon, Park
open 06:00 - 24:00. Museums 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00
- 20:00, Sun and holidays 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission to park free. Museums 80 - 650Rbl. UKW
Vorobyevy Gory (Sparrow Hills)
QMichurinsky pr. 13, MVorobyevy Gory, tel. (+7) 499
739 27 07, www.vorobyovy-gory.ru. Open 24h. Admission free.
March - May 2016
35
Where to stay
Where to stay
Whether you are visiting Moscow for a night or a month,

you want to be able to stay in a hotel which enables you to
get the most out of your visit. We have a selection of hotels
ranging from luxury five star hotels to boutique mini-hotels
filled with charm. You can find out where these hotels are
located and what market they cater for.
5 stars
Ararat Park Hyatt
QC-2, Neglinnaya ul. 4, MLubyanka, tel. (+7) 495 783
12 34, www.moscow.park.hyatt.com. 206 rooms (Room
prices start at 16,000Rbl).
Crowne Plaza Moscow WTC
QKrasnopresnenskaya nab. 12, MVystavochnaya, tel.
(+7) 495 258 22 22, www.cpmow.ru. 724 rooms (Room
Hilton Moscow Leningradskaya
QE-1, Kalanchevskaya ul. 21/40, MKrasnye Vorota,
tel. (+7) 495 627 55 50, www.moscow.hilton.com. 273
rooms (Room prices start at 6,000Rbl).
Hotel Baltschug Kempinski Moscow
QD-3, Ul. Baltschug 1, MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7)
495 287 20 00, www.kempinski.com/en/moscow. 227
Hotel National
QC-3, Mokhovaya ul. 15/1, bldg.1, MOkhotnyy Ryad,
tel. (+7) 495 258 70 00, www.national.ru. 202 rooms
(Room prices start at 8,500Rbl).
Hotel Savoy Moscow
QC-2, Ul. Rozhdestvenka 3/6, bldg. 1, MKuznetsky
Most, tel. (+7) 495 620 85 00, www.savoy.ru. 67 rooms
Lotte Hotel Moscow
QA-3, Novinsky bul. 8, bldg. 2, MSmolenskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 745 10 00, www.lottehotel.ru. 300 rooms
Marriott Moscow Grand Hotel
QB-1, Tverskaya ul. 26/1, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7)
495 937 00 00, www.marriott.com/mowgr. 386 rooms
Marriott Moscow Royal Aurora
QC-2, Ul. Petrovka 11, MKuznetsky Most, tel. (+7) 495
937 10 00, www.marriottmoscowroyalaurora.ru. 231
Metropol
QC-2, Teatralny proezd 2, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7)
499 501 78 00, www.metropol-moscow.ru. 388 rooms
Radisson Royal Hotel Moscow
QA-3, Kutuzovsky pr. 2/1, bldg. 1, MKievskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 221 55 55, www.ukraina-hotel.ru. 497 rooms
(38 apartments, Room prices start at 19,000Rbl).
Renaissance Moscow
Monarch Centre Hotel
QA-1, Leningradsky pr. 31a, bldg. 1, MDinamo, tel.
(+7) 495 995 00 09, www.renaissancemonarchmoscow.
com. 366 rooms (Room prices start at 8,024Rbl).
Sheraton Moscow Sheremetyevo
Airport Hotel
QMezhdunarodnoye shosse 28B, bldg. 5, MPlanernaya, tel. (+7) 495 229 00 10, www.sheratonmoscowairport.
com. 342 rooms (Room prices start at 5,000Rbl).
Sheraton Palace
QA-1, 1-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya ul. 19, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 931 97 00, sheratonpalace.ru. 212 rooms
The Ritz-Carlton
QC-2, Tverskaya ul. 3, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495
225 88 88, www.ritzcarlton.com. 334 rooms (Room
The St. Regis Moscow Hotel Nikolskaya
QD-2, Nikolskaya ul. 12, MLubyanka, tel. (+7) 495 967
77 76, www.hotelnikolskaya.com. 210 rooms (Prices
start at 11,000Rbl).
Marco Polo Presnja

QB-2, Spiridonovsky per. 9, bldg. 1, MMayakovskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 660 06 06, www.presnja.ru/eng. 73 rooms
Marriott Moscow Tverskaya
QB-1, 1-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya ul. 34, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 258 30 00, www.marriott.com/mowtv.
162 rooms (Room prices start at 6,000Rbl).
Mercure Moscow Paveletskaya
QD-5, Ul. Bakhrushina 11, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495
720 53 01, www.mercure.com. 149 rooms (Room prices
start at 4,800Rbl).
Novotel Moscow Centre
QNovoslobodskaya ul. 23, MMendeleevskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 780 40 00, www.accorhotels.com. 255 rooms
President
QC4, Ul. Bol. Yakimanka 24, MPolyanka, tel. (+7) 499
271 28 00, www.president-hotel.ru. (Room prices start
at 9,500Rbl).
Radisson Blu Belorusskaya Hotel
QA1, Ul. 3-ego Yamskogo Polya 26, bldg. A, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 660 49 00, www.radissonblu.
com/belorusskayahotel-moscow. (Room prices start at
6,500Rbl).
Radisson Slavyanskaya Hotel
QA4, Pl. Evropy 2, MKievskaya, tel. (+7) 495 941 80 20,
www.radisson.ru/slavyanskayahotel-moscow. (Room
Registrations: all foreign visitors to Russia

are obliged to register within seven working
days (this excludes weekends and public
holidays). Remember your hotel is obliged
to register you as staying in their hotel. If
a hotel refuses to register you make sure
you complain the registrations is their
responsibility, not yours!
3 stars
Azimut Moscow Tulskaya Hotel
QVarshavskoye shosse 9, MTulskaya, tel. (+7) 495
987 22 22, www.azimuthotels.com. 144 rooms (Room
Ibis Moscow Centre Bakhrushina
QD-5, Ul. Bakhrushina 11, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495
720 53 01, www.accorhotels.com. 190 rooms (Room
Ibis Paveletskaya
QUl. Shchipok 22/1, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 661
85 00, www.ibis.com/ru. 147 rooms (Room prices start
at 3,900Rbl).
Warsaw
QC-5, Leninsky pr. 2/1, MOktyabrskaya, tel. (+7) 499
238 41 01, www.hotelwarsaw.ru. 135 rooms (Room
4 stars
Adagio Moscow Paveletskaya
QD-5, Ul. Bakhrushina 11, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7)
495 720 53 01, www.accorhotels.com. 94 rooms (Room
AZIMUT Moscow Olympic Hotel
QOlimpiysky pr. 18/1, MProspekt Mira, tel. (+7) 495
931 90 00, www.azimuthotels.com. 486 rooms (Room
Best Western Plus Vega Hotel
& Convention Center
QIzmailovskoe shosse 71, bldg. 3V, MPartizanskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 956 05 06, www.hotel-vega.ru. 1000 rooms
Courtyard by Marriott Moscow City
Center Hotel
QB-2, Voznesensky per. 7, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7)
495 981 33 00, www.courtyardmoscow.com. 218 rooms
Holiday Inn Sokolniki
QRusakovskaya ul. 24, MSokolniki, tel. (+7) 495
786 73 73, www.hi-sokolniki.ru. (Room prices start at
7,000Rbl).
Hotel Mandarin Moscow
QOlkhovskaya ul. 23, MKomsomolskaya, tel. (+7) 495
580 32 78, www.hotelmandarin.ru. (Room prices start
at 3,600Rbl).
March - May 2016
37
Shopping
Business & Expat
Russian Souvenirs
Russia is full of beautiful souvenirs and we are not
just talking about Russian dolls and Lenin badges. If
you are looking to take some extra special gifts home
with you we recommend you consider buying some
of the following:
Platok
A perfect present for any
female friend or relative.
These beautifully designed
and colourful scarves can
either spruce up the outfit
of a young lady by being
worn around the neck or
serve to make your grandma look even cuter than usual by being worn around
the head. Orenburgsky platok is another highly desirable type of scarf made from the down hair of goats.
The real hand spun ones are very warm and yet also so
delicate and silk-like that the whole scarf can be pulled
through a womans wedding ring.
Palekh
Palekh is a small town located 360km to the east
of Moscow, which became
famous in Russia for its
specialty in painting icons
and iconography, and had
developed its own unique
style. Their work became
highly demanded for the
adornment of Orthodox
churches, and can be found all over Russia, even within
the Kremlin itself. The style is unique for its use of tempera paints, often on black backgrounds, and oranamented with gold-leaf overlays for highlighting. The
origins and inspirations of their paintings and works
were religious in nature, and so after the revolution
and the bolsheviks strict policy of atheism, the painters had to move to new directions to continue their
craft and make a living, and so the began making small
boxes, cases for cigarettes, etc, and instead drew images of Russian fairytales and folk stories.
Caviar
Black beluga caviar is still
one of the most expensive
foods on the planet and a
small jar can set you back
more than $100 if you buy
it in the market. Never buy
caviar from street touts,
more often than not it is
fake and/or illegal.
Gifts and Souvenirs
Business associations
Dulyovsky farfor
QShcherbakovskaya ul. 57/20, MPartizanskaya, tel.
(+7) 499 166 76 43, www.dulevo.ru. Open 10:00 - 20:00,
Sun 10:00 - 19:00. A
Gallery Mikhailov
Q-2, Ul. Bol. Dmitrovka 16, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495
692 44 12, www.vmikhailov.ru. Open 11:00 - 21:00. A
Prosto Tak
QD-3, Ul. Zabelina 3/7, MKitay Gorod, tel. +7 499 755
75 29, www.vot-tak.com. Open 11:00 - 21:00. A
Russian gifts
QUl. Zorge 9A bldg. 2, MPolezhaevskaya, tel. (+7) 495
984 71 54, www.russiangifts.ru. Open 09:30 - 18:00.
Closed Sat, Sun. ALK
Association of European Businesses

QB-1, Krasnoproletarskaya ul. 16, bldg. 3, entry 8,
MNovoslobodskaya, tel. (+7) 495 234 27 64, www.
aebrus.ru.
Finnish-Russian Chamber of Commerce
QE-3, Pokrovsky bul. 4/17, bldg. 4b, MChistye Prudy,
tel. (+7) 495 917 90 37, www.svkk.ru.
Hospitality Ideas and Trends Club
QD/E-2, Ul. Pokrovka 9, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 495
623 59 46, www.club-hit.ru.
Russian-German Chamber of Commerce
QC-3, 1-y Kazachy per. 7, MPolyanka, tel. (+7) 495 234
49 50, www.vdw.ru.
The American Chamber of Commerce
QB-1, Dolgorukovskaya ul. 7, 14th floor, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 961 21 41, www.amcham.ru.
The Russo-British Chamber of Commerce
Q-2, Tverskaya ul. 16, bldg.1, MTverskaya, tel. (+7)
495 961 21 60, www.rbcc.com.
Shopping Centres
Atrium
QE-3, Ul. Zemlyanoy Val 33, MKurskaya, tel. (+7) 495
970 15 55, www.atrium.su. Open 10:00 - 23:00.
GUM
Q-3, Red Square, MPl. Revolutsy, tel. +7 495 788 43
43, www.gum.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00. AK
Okhotny Ryad
Q-3, Manezhnaya pl.1/2, MOkhotny Ryad, tel.
(+7) 495 737 84 49, www.ox-r.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00.
AULKW
Supermarkets
Gum Gastronom 1
QC-3, Red Square, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 788
43 43, www.gum.ru/shop/410. Open 24h. ALK
Hediard
QC-2, Ul. Bolshaya Dmitrovka 23 bldg. 1, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 692 81 66, www.hediard.ru. Open
08:00 - 23:00.
Yeliseevsky
Q-2, Ul. Tverskaya 14, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495
650 46 43, www.eliseevskiy.ru. Open 24h. A
Flowers
Nothing says I love you like a nice big bunch of flowers.
In Russia when making this gesture there are several
points to consider. The golden rule is to buy an odd
number of flowers, even numbers are only given at funerals. Secondly as regards colour avoid yellow as this
is sometimes associated with bad luck and for some
signifies a farewell or (unless of course thats the message you want the flowers to give). If you are trying to
be romantic then of course go for pink or red, something exotic or classics roses. Carnations are heavily associated with Soviet holidays such as Victory Day and
are best saved as a present for the babushkas.
Accountants
and Consultants
Awara
QB-2, Bol. Sadovaya ul. 10, off. 12, MMayakovskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 225 30 38, www.awaragroup.com.
Bauke van der Meer Tax & Legal Services
QC-5, Ul. Bol. Yakimanka 31/18, off. 203b, MPolyanka,
tel. (+7) 495 935 76 21, www.bvdmeer.nl.
Deloitte
QA-1, Lesnaya ul. 5b, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 787
06 00, www.deloitte.com.
Ernst and Young
QD-4, Sadovnicheskaya nab. 77, bldg. 1, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 705 97 00, www.ey.com.
KPMG
QPresnenskaya nab. 10, complex Bashnya na naberejnoy, block C, MMezhdunarodnaya, tel. (+7) 495 937
44 77, www.kpmg.ru.
foreigners life
The Foreigners Life Exhibition and Forum is your onestop place for everything
concerning with expat life in
Moscow: where to study Russian, where to get good health care with English-speaking
staff, financial services, and where to bring your children to
school. The first exhibition entirely dedicated to life of expats in Russia was held in the World Trade Centre, Moscow
on the 5-7th of February. There are about a million foreigners living in Moscow, and this exhibition aims to educate
and inform them, featuring 150 exhibitors presenting their
products and services. www.foreignerslife.com
What is Resident?
Resident is one of those Russian words which sounds
just the same like its Latin-English counterpart. In Russian, the word has different meanings because the term
is used in different laws and its use often leads to an incomplete or wrong understanding of the situation.
The Russian Tax Code defines a resident as an individual
who stays in Russia for more than 183 days during the calendar year. Be careful to count days of arrival as well. This
means you fall under the lower Russian personal income
tax rate, 13% instead of 30%. But a double tax treaty can
have additional rules defining tax residency: having your
family or house outside Russia will usually lead to taxation
of your worldwide income in your home country rather
than in Russia. Some people think they can choose where
to pay tax, as long as they pay something somewhere.
Unfortunately that is not true: paying tax in the wrong
country can easily lead to double taxation, or to sleepless
nights about the possible consequences of non declaring
income. Luckily Russian law is very tolerant against late filing: the late payment penalty is maximised and late payment interest is linked to the Central Bank refinancing rate.
Russian currency legislation also has a definition of resident, which is an individual holding a Russian passport
or residence permit (vid na zhitelstvo). If you have a double nationality, your Russian passport will still make you
a resident for currency purposes. A currency resident is
allowed to have a bank account abroad but must report
this to the Russian Central Bank.
The de-offshorisation law which was enacted in late 2014
contains complex reporting requirements for foreign bank
accounts and companies. Under this law, a company partially or fully owned by a Russian tax resident (in the Tax
Code meaning of that word) can be considered a resident
(in which case it will be subject to Russian corporate income tax) or a controlled foreign company (in which case
its undistributed profit will be subject to Russian personal
income tax for its shareholder. The good news is that 2015
is the first year for which this rule applies and that such
income has to be reported only in 2017.
When used in the context of a Russian working with a
Russian embassy abroad, resident has an entirely different meaning: it means that person is working for the FSB
(Federal Security Service).
Rumours are that the top bracket of Russian personal
income tax will go up to 20%, but only for the very high
incomes which are out of range for most European and
US executives. Even then, Russia would still spot one
of the lowest personal income tax rates of the modern
world. Therefore, it pays off (literally) to carefully analyse
where and when you have to pay Russian tax and do it. It
will allow you to avoid paying tax on this income in your
home country and feel even more comfortable in Russia.
Written in collaboration with BVDM Tax and Legal
Services. For legal advice visit their website www.
bvdmlaw.nl or call (+7) 495 935 76 21.
March - May 2016
39
Business & Expat

The Expat Experience
Interview
with
Karl
Damegger,
Executive
Chef in Moscow Marriott
Royal Aurora
I was born in Austria, and
have already spent 15 years
in Russia, with the last 5 years
working at Marriott. Also, I am
married, and a happy father of
a child.
You have been working in Austria. What can you
tell us about the difference in culinary preferences between Russian and Austrian audiences?
Mostly Russians prefer to eat home-style-made food and
food pre-set on table, but culinary habits have changed, I
would say that. Over the last 10 years a lot of new cuisines
and restaurants have grown up. New trends have been
established. Nowadays Moscow has a lot to offer, for every
culinary taste. Nevertheless, it may not be original and authentic, but also very expensive at the same time.
Which Russian dishes do you like most? Russian cuisine is pretty exotic for a foreigners taste, but I definitely
like Olivier salad, Pelmeni and Borsch.
What makes a perfect meal? There are many nuances
that make an enjoyable dinner, and the choice of the food
to eat is not crucial factor. A perfect meal always includes
cozy relaxing atmosphere, good service by attentive waiters, and the food made of carefully selected and thoughtthrough prepared items in their best combinations.
Vienna is one of the most beautiful cities of the
world with its unique culture: lots of museums,
galleries, theaters, etc. What can you tell in these
terms about Moscow? In Moscow you can easily run
over a person who speaks English, or well educated in arts.
Not surprising as Moscow has a great amount of museums and places of interest. People are cultural and intelligent here, and very interested in any kind of art!
Russian spring is rich in holidays and festivals.
Have you got a favorite one so far? The first spring
holiday that comes to mind is International Womens Day.
This is beautiful and aromatic celebration with tulips of all
imaginable colors from light yellow to purple. Maslenitsa is
worth mentioning too. I like the idea of welcoming spring
and saying good-bye to winter, and baking pancakes is a
good reason for every family to get together and have fun.
Moscow is one of the most popular and rewarding expat destinations. If you would like
your expat group to be featured here, just drop
us a line at research.mos@inyourpocket.com
Business & Expat

Cultural & Educational
Centres
British Council
Q-3, Nikoloyamskaya ul. 1, MTaganskaya, tel. (+7)
495 287 18 00, www.britishcouncil.org/russia. Open
13:00 - 14:00, 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Canadian Centre
Q-3, Nikoloyamskaya ul. 1, 2nd floor, MTaganskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 915 37 52, www.studycanada.ca/russia.
Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Goethe Institute/DAAD
QLeninsky pr. 95a, MProspekt Vernadskogo, tel. (+7)
495 936 24 57, www.goethe.de/ins/ru/mos/uun/oef/
deindex.htm. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Fri 09:00 - 16:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Institut Franais
Q-3, Ul. Vorontsovo Pole 16 bldg. 1, MChkalovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 916 37 78, www.institutfrancais.ru/fr/
russie. Open 09:30 - 20:00, Sat 09:30 - 17:00.
Neso Russia
Q-3, Nikoloyamskaya ul. 1, 3rd floor, MTaganskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 915 05 25, www.nesorussia.org. Open
14:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Dentist
US Dental Care
Well-established and long-respected American
Board-certified dentists and hygienists. They speak
English and Russian, have a full range of general, specialised and childrens services, extensive cosmetic
services and emergency care. The clinic itself is spotless and high-tech. Direct billing and Corporate membership available. QOlimpiysky prospect 16, bldg. 5,
business center Olympic Hall, MPr. Mira, tel. (+7)
495 933 86 86, www.usdentalcare.com. Open 08:00
- 20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. PTAW
LEARN russian at the

liden & denz
Dictionary for expats:
As like as two drops of water Pokhozhi kak dve kapli vody.
The idiom as like as two
drops of water is an expression used to describe two
people or things which are extremely similar or
alike. The English equivalent is as like as two peas
in a pod.
QA-1, Gruzinsky per. 3 bldg. 1, entr. 6, off. 181,
MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 499 254 49 91, www.
lidenz.ru. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
WHY RUSSIANS DONT

SMILE
One of the biggest misconceptions which foreigners
have about Russians is that since they physically look
like we do, we therefore expect them to behave as we
do. Westerns generally make decisions in a pragmatic
way, using logic, whereas Russians tend to take a more
emotional view of the situation. The result is that Russians can appear extremely irrational whereas the Russian view of the western thought-process is plain boring. This is despite the fact that at first glance you may
receive a cold stare!
Another issue is trust. In the West we instinctively trust
people, particularly in business, unless you have a
particular reason not to. The opposite is true in Russia,
where three generations of Communism taught people to automatically view outsiders with suspicion. Curiosity didnt pay, and consequently, Russians are more
likely to do business with people whom they trust, and
whom they like. Back home, most people keep their
working lives and their family and friends separate
from each other. In Russia, they are more likely to blend
into one, as you become on friendlier terms with your
clients, partners and colleagues, and involving those
close to you in your business activities isnt nepotism,
its viewed as a sensible option.
If you are serious about doing business in Russia, take the
time to get to know those whom you view as strategically
important to your firms planned growth in the region.
Invite them to visit your regional offices back home, and
spend time with them outside of working hours whilst
in Russia. This approach will pay you far greater dividends
than for those who simply fly-in and fly-out, and who
knows, you might even have a little fun in the process.
Ever spent an evening in a banya or been invited to a Russians home for dinner? Both are an experience that to be
savoured, and that youll never forget!
Many practical advices and observations on doing business in Russia were put together in a no-nonsense guide
Why Russians dont Smile by Luc Jones, a Canadian/ British Expat who has been living and working in Russia for
almost two decades, speaks Russian completely fluently
and travelled extensively throughout the Former Soviet
Union. The latest edition of the guide has not only been
brought bang up to date but has been revamped, including a feature on the growing region of Tatarstan, plus includes more details on doing business in Kazakhstan as
this is featuring more prominently on expats to-go lists on
business development trips. There is even now a section
on what to do when invited to visit a Russian banya! For
a free copy in PDF, please e-mail Luc Jones directly at: luc.
jones@antalrussia.com
Written in collaboration with Antal Russia/Luc
Jones. For more information: www.antalrussia.com
0+
Butterfly Ball
The International Womens Club of Moscow presents
one of its traditional, and yet most special events: the
20th annual IWC Embassies of the World Dinner and
Ball, this year entitled Butterfly Ball.
Be prepared for a splendid evening at one of Moscows finest hotels and, if you like, an exclusive dinner beforehand
at one of Moscows embassies. If you select the dinner
option, your evening will begin with an elegant dinner
hosted by an ambassador and his/her spouse, who will
welcome you at their embassy or residence along with a
select number of other guests. You will be served a delicious meal and drinks from the embassys local cuisine.
Afterwards you will proceed to the ball. Hotel Metropol,
the luxurious and historical five-star hotel opposite the
famous Bolshoy Theatre, welcomes our guests to an evening of Dance and Romance around the World with delectable food and drinks, an entertaining program and, of
course, dancing. In addition, you will be able to participate
in a big raffle with exclusive prizes. And the best thing: all
proceeds of the evening will go to a good cause, namely,
supporting charities!
QHotel Metropol, Teatralny proezd 2, MTeatralnaya, www.iwcmoscow.ru. Starts 22:00.Tickets
7,000Rbl. Dinner at the Embassies. Starts 19:00.
Tickets per ball and dinner 10,000Rbl. Tickets are
on sale now and can be purchased at one of the
IWCs regular events (for specific dates and further
details, please check website).
March - May 2016
41
St. Petersburg
St. Petersburg
modern art centres
Russias capital city Moscow may be buzzing with business

and pleasure, but sometimes its worth escaping for a few
days and a visit to St. Petersburg, Peter the Greats Window
to the West, is an ideal place to go if you are looking for a city
easily navigated on foot and filled with history and beauty.
Bursting with world class museums, stunning waterside
panoramas, tranquil canals, beautiful neo-classical architecture and brimming with culture, theres more than
enough to enjoy at any time of year.
sightseeing
Aleksander Nevsky Monastery
QNab. reky Monastyrky 1, MPl. Aleksandra Nevskogo,
tel. (+7) 812 274 17 02, www.lavra.spb.ru. Open daily
06:00 - 20:00. Admission free.
Artillery Museum
QAleksandrovsky park 7 (entrance from Kronverkskaya nab.), MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 232 02 96, www.
artillery-museum.ru. Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon,
Tue and last Thu of the month. Admission 100 - 400Rbl.
Kazan Cathedral
QKazanskaya pl. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 314 46
63, www.kazansky-spb.ru. Open 09:00 - 20:00 Daily
services 10:00 and 18:00. Admission free.
Kunstkamera
QUniversitetskaya nab. 3, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 328 14 12, www.kunstkamera.ru. Open 11:00
- 19:00. Closed Mon and last Tue of the month. Admission 50 - 250Rbl.
getting there
There are dozens of night trains travelling every day between Moscow and St. Petersburg, some of them modern and upscale like the Megapolis (see page 43), and
others more suitable for those on a small budget. In addition there are also many super-fast trains (called the
Sapsan) which make the journey in just over 4 hours
and travel daily during the morning, afternoon and
early evening. There are also of course frequent flight
connections between Moscows main airports and St.
Petersburgs Pulkovo airport.
HERMITAGE
QD-2, Dvortsovaya nab. 34 (entrance from Dvortsovaya pl.), MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 710 90 79,
www.hermitagemuseum.org. Open 10:30 - 18:00,
Wed and Fri 10:30 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 400
- 600Rbl. Audioguide 350Rbl. You can buy tickets at the
ticket offices inside the museum and via special terminals at the entracne to the Great Courtyard. Excursion
bureau (+7) 812 571 84 46.
Museum of the St. Petersburg
Avant-garde (Matyushin house)
QUl. Professora Popova 10, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7)
812 347 68 98, www.spbmuseum.ru. Open 11:00 - 18:00,
Tue 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Wed. Admission 60 - 100Rbl.
Peter and Paul Fortress
QPetropavlovskaya krepost 3, MGorkovskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 230 64 31, www.spbmuseum.ru. The fortress is
open 09:00 - 20:00. Entrance to fortress is free. All inclusive ticket 450Rbl (ticket valid for all museums).
Russian Etnographic Museum
QInzhenernaya ul. 4/1, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 570
54 21, www.ethnomuseum.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu
10:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon and last Fri of month. Admission 50 - 350Rbl.
State Memorial Museum of Leningrad
Defence and Siege
QShpalernaya ul. 56, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812
438 43 75, www.vodokanal-museum.ru. Open 10:00 19:00. Closed Mon and Tue. Admission 60 - 250Rbl.
Yusupov Palace
QC-3, Nab. reky Moiky 94, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812
314 98 83, www.yusupov-palace.ru. Open 11:00 - 17:00.
Group tours should be booked in advance by phone
(+7) 812 314 88 93. Excursions 150 - 700Rbl.
Russian Museum
QInzhenernaya ul. 4, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 595
42 48, www.rusmuseum.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Mon
10:00 - 17:00, Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Tue. Admission
150 - 350Rbl. All inclusive ticket 300 - 600Rbl.
St. Isaacs Cathedral
QIsaakievskaya pl. 4, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812
315 97 32, www.cathedral.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed
Wed. Colonnade open daily 11:00 - 17:00. Closed second
Wed of the month. Admission Cathedral 50 - 250Rbl.
Anna Nova Art Gallery

QE-3, Ul. Zhukovskogo 28, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. +7
(812) 275 97 62, www.annanova-gallery.ru.
Erarta
QB-3, VO, 29-ya linya, 2, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7)
812 324 08 09, www.erarta.com.
Marina Gisich Gallery
QD-4, Nab. reky Fontanky 121, MSadovaya, tel. (+7)
812 314 43 80, www.gisich.com.
Novy musey
QC-2, VO, 6-ya liniya, 29, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7)
812 323 50 90, www.novymuseum.ru.
ROSPHOTO
QD-3, Bol. Morskaya ul. 35, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 314 12 14, www.rosphoto.org.
shopping centres
Bolshoy Gostiny Dvor
QNevsky pr. 35, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 710 54 08,
www.bgd.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00. AK
DLT Department store
QBol. Konyushennaya ul. 21-23, MAdmiralteiskaya,
tel. (+7) 812 648 08 48, www.dlt.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00.
AKW
GALERIA
QLigovsky pr. 30A, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 643 31
72, www.galeria-spb.ru. Open 10:00 - 23:00. ALK
Nevsky Centre
QNevsky pr. 114-116, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812
313 93 13, www.nevskycentre.ru. Open 10:00 - 23:00.
AKW
Passage
QNevsky pr. 48, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 52 57, www.
passage.spb.ru. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. AK
HOTELS
Angleterre Hotel
QMal. Morskaya ul. 24, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7)
812 494 56 66, www.angleterrehotel.com. 193 rooms.
hhhhh
Corinthia Hotel St. Petersburg
QNevsky pr. 57, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 380 20
01, www.corinthia.com. 388 rooms. hhhhh
Four Seasons Hotel Lion Palace
QVoznesensky pr. 1, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812
339 80 00, www.fourseasons.com/stpetersburg/. 183
rooms. hhhhh
belmond Grand Hotel Europe
QMikhailovskaya ul. 1/7, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812
329 60 00, www.grandhoteleurope.com. 276 rooms.
hhhhh
Hotel Astoria
QBol. Morskaya ul. 39, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7)
812 494 57 57, www.thehotelastoria.com. 188 rooms.
hhhhh
Kempinski Hotel Moika 22

QNab. Reky Moiky 22, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7)
812 335 91 11, www.kempinski.com/stpetersburg. 197
rooms. hhhhh
Solo Sokos Hotel Palace Bridge
QBirzhevoy per. 4, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812
335 22 00, www.sokoshotels.com. 324 rooms. hhhhh
Crowne Plaza St. Petersburg Airport
QStartovaya ul. 6, bldg. A, MMoskovskaya, tel. (+7)
812 240 42 00, www.cpairport.ru. 294 rooms. hhhh
Novotel St. Petersburg Centre
QUl. Mayakovskogo 3A, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7)
812 335 11 88, www.accorhotels.com/5679. 233 rooms.
hhhh
Park Inn by Radisson Nevsky
QNevsky pr. 89, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 406 73 10,
www.parkinn.com/hotel-stpetersburg. 269 rooms. hhhh
Park Inn by Radisson Pulkovskaya
QPl. Pobedy 1, MMoskovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 740 39 00,
www.parkinn.com/hotelpulkovskaya-stpetersburg.
841 rooms. hhhh
Sokos Hotel Vasilievsky
Q9-ya Liniya 11-13, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812
335 22 90, www.sokoshotels.com. 255 rooms. hhhh
AZIMUT Hotel Saint Petersburg
QLermontovsky pr. 43/1, MBaltiskaya, tel. (+7) 812
740 26 40, www.azimuthotels.com. 1037 rooms. hhh
IBIS St. Petersburg Centre
QLigovsky pr. 54, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 622 01
00, www.ibishotel.com/6157. 221 rooms. hhh
Luxury Trains
If you are looking for a comfortable night train to the
Northern Capital it is worth considering taking a private
train. The cheerful Megapolis train leaves for St. Petersburg every night and offers a more hotel-like travel
experience. After being shown to your cabin you will
find your beds have already been made up with real
duvets rather than blankets, and all round the carriages
are spotless. Hot breakfast and coffee can be brought to
your room in the morning and if at any moment during
the trip you experience some problems you can call the
train attendant from the comfort of your bed and they
will come to you! If you want to wake up in Moscow
truly fresh in the morning, its worth the money.
Trains leave Leningradsky vokzal (metro Komsomolskaya) at 00:28 and arrive in St. Petersburg at 08:59.
For reservations call 8-800-777-20-19 or book online
at www.poezdmegapolis.ru
March - May 2016
43
- 2016

2016
VTB Ice PALACE
Maps
March - May 2016
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.
March - May 2016
13
65
UL
Street register
1905 Goda ul.
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A-1/2
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E-4
C-4
B-3
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D-5
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E-3
C-4
D-2
C/D-3
B-3/4
D-1
B-2
C-2
A-4
A-1/2
C-1
E-2
E-2
C/D-2
C-3
B-2
E-2
B-4
D-2
B-3
B/C-3
D-4/5
B-2
B-2
C-4/5
B-1/2
C/D-5
E-1
C-4
D-5
D-1
D-1
D-4/5
D-5
A-1
B-4
C-5
B-3/4
C-4
C-4
A-3/4
A-3
A/B-1
A/B-1
C-4/5
B-4
B-1
D/E-2
B-4
C-1
C-5
D-1
B-1
D-5
E-3
C-1
B-2
B-4
B-1
B-3
E-2
B-4
C-2/3
D-1
A/B-4
B-3/4
D-4
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C-4
E-4
E-4
E-4
E-2
B-2
D-1
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C-3
D-3
C-4
C-4
E-1
B-3
C-5
C-5
E-2
C-5
E-3
B-4
B-3
D/E-3
C-5
A-4
D-4
D-2/3
A/B-3
E-1
F-6
A-2/3
D-1
B-4
C-5
D/E-4
D-1
D/E-4
D-4
C-2
A/B-1, B-2
C-3
A-2
A-3
B-1
E-1
C-3
D-2
B-4
E-5
E-5
B-5
B-5
B/C-5
B/C-4
A-3
C/D-2
C-1
C-4
F-6
B-2
A-1
D-2
E-2/3
B-2
B-1/2
A-2
C-1
B-2
B-2
D-4/5
C-5
D-1
C-4
B/C-3
C-3
C-3
E-4
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Pomerantsev per.
Posledny per.
Potapovsky per.
Povarskaya ul.
Pozharsky per.
Prechistenskaya nab.
Prechistensky per.
Presnensky val ul.
Prospekt Mira
Pushechnaya ul.
Pushkinskaya nab.
Pushkinskaya pl.
Pyatnitskaya ul.
Pevchesky per.
Raushskaya nab.
Romanov per.
Rozhdestvenka ul.
Rozhdestvensky bul.
Runovsky per.
Rybny per.
Sadovaya-Karetnaya ul.
Sadovaya-Kudrinskaya ul.
Sadovaya-Spasskaya ul.
Sadovaya-Triumfalnaya ul.
C-5
D-2/3
E-2
B-3
D-2
B-1
C-3
B-4
D-5
D-5
D-5
D-5
D-3
D-2
C-5
C-2
B-3
C-2/3
E-3/4
C-2/3
D-3
E-4/5
E-1
E-1
D-2
A-2/3
B-5
D-4/5
D-5
D-5
E-1
A/B-3
B-4
C-2/3
C-1
B-4/5
D-4
D-4
D-4
D-5
C-2
C-1/2
C-2
C-4
B-2
B-3
A-4
E-3
E-3
C-5
D/E-2
E-3
B-4
D-1
D-2
B-2/3
B-4
C-4
B-4
A-1/2
D-1
C/D-2
B-5
C-2
D-4
D-3
D-3
C-3
C-2
C/D-2
D-4
C-3
B/C-1
A/B-2
E-1/2
B-1
Sadovnicheskaya ul.
Sadovnichesky proezd
Samotyochnaya ul.
Serebryanicheskaya nab.
Shchepkina ul.
Sivtsev Vrazhek per.
Skatertny per.
Smolensky bul.
Smolenskaya ul.
Sofiyskaya nab.
Soymonovsky proezd
Solyanka ul.
Spasonalivkovsky p.(1y)
Spiridonovka ul.
Spiridonyevsky per.
Sretenka ul.
Sretensky bul.
Stanislavskogo ul.
Staraya pl.
Starokonyushenny per.
Staromonetny per.
Starosadsky per.
Stary Tolmachevsky per.
Stoleshnikov per.
Stolyarny per.
Strastnoy bul.
Sushchevskaya ul.
Sytinsky per.
Tarasa Shevchenko nab.
Tatarskaya ul.
Teatralny proezd
Teterinsky per.
Triumfalnaya pl.
Trubnaya ul.
Trubnikovsky per.
Tryokhprudny per.
Tsvetnoy bul.
Tverskaya ul.
Tverskaya-Yamskaya ul.
Tverskoy bul.
Usacheva ul.
Ustyinsky pr.
Valovaya ul.
Varsonofyevsky per.
Varvarka ul.
Vasilyevsky spusk pl.
Vasilyevskaya ul.
Vasnetsova per.
V. Radishchevskaya ul.
V. Syromyatnicheskaya ul.
Volhonka ul.
Vorontsovo pole
Vorontsovskaya ul.
Vozdvizhenka ul.
Voznesensky per.
Vspolny per.
Yakimanskaya nab.
Yakimansky proezd
Yauzsky bul.
Zemlyanoy Val ul.
Zhitnaya ul.
Zhukovskogo ul.
Znamenka ul.
Zoologicheskaya ul.
D-3/4
D-3
C-1
E-3
D-1
B-3
B-2/3
A-4
A-4
C-3
B-4
D-3
C-5
B-2
B-2
D-1
C-1
C-2
C-3
B-3/4
C-4
D-2/3
D-4
C-2
A-2
C-1/2
B-1
B-2
A-3
D-5
C-2
E-4
B-1
C-1
A/B-3
B-2
C-1
B-1/2
A/B-1
B -2
F-6
D-3/4
D-5
C/D-2
C-3
D-3
A/B-1
C-1
E-4
E-3
C-3/4
E-3
E-4/5
B/C-3
B-2
B-2
C-4
C-4
E-3
E-2/3/4
C-5
E-2
B/C-3
A-1/2
Abbreviations
Ul. - Ulitsa
Per. - Pereulok
Pr. - Prospekt
Pl. - Ploschad
Bul. - Bulvar
Nab. - Naberezhnaya
Bol. - Bolshaya
Mal. - Malaya
March - May 2016
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Maps Events Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

Ancient city between Moscow

Arrival & Getting Around

Culture & Events 10

Hockey in the USSR and Russia 16

Business & Expat 39

Visit the Northern capital

Maps & Index

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Moscow In Your Pocket

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The Tabakov theater

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the Old English Court

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Moscow City Pass Card

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Average temperature (oC)

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Culture & Events

concert halls and clubs

State Kremlin Palace (SKP)

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March - May 2016

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Culture & Events

12 Moscow In Your Pocket

A-ha is back yet again, following the announcement

Culture & Events

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24.03 Thursday - 26.02 Friday

through 03.04 Sunday

Hockey in the Soviet

The Canada Cup 1981

ice hockey and Vselovod Bobrov. Anatoly Tarasov would

16 Moscow In Your Pocket

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A Credit cards accepted

20 Moscow In Your Pocket

Asian and Indian

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To read about even more restaurants

March - May 2016

Ancient city between