Garment Zone Wise Defect Classification

ITC Quality Manual

March 99

ITCs Classification of Critical, Major and Minor Defects

Woven Shirts
Appearance, Colour and Fabric[Defect by Zone]
Defect
1.
Dirt Spot
2.
Shaded Parts
3.
Shading between Garments
4.
Holes of any Size repaired or not
Sewing [Seams and Stitches Defects by Zone]
Defect
1.
Run off Stitches upto 1/8
2.
Run off Stitches over 1/8
3.
One or More Skip Stitch on a Chain Stitch
4.
More than One Skip Stitch on a Lock Stitch
5.
Stitching Margin Variation Needle to Edge over 1/16
6.
Any Exposed Stitch or Underpart
7.
Blindstitch Bite Too Deep
8.
Stitchcount Variation over +2 or -1 per inch
9.
Tight Stitch, Thread Tension
10. Raw Edge, Open Seam, Lose Seam or Fraying
11. Uneven Front Placket >1/8 at Bottom
12. Incorrect Placket Width 1/8 or Less
13. Uneven High-Low Pockets [2 Shirt Pocket] of Pocket Flaps more than 1/4 in relation to each other
14. Mismatch Pockets Plaid Match over 1/8
15. Uneven Collar Points over 1/8
16. Collar Overlap when Buttoned
17. Incorrect Size Buttonhole
18. Buttonholes Non reparable, Anchored Threads or Broken Stitches
19. Incorrect Buttons
20. Missing Buttons
21. Buttons Out of Line on Top Center 1/8 Tolerance

ITC Quality Manual

March 99

Zone A
Major
Major
Major
Major

Zone B
Major
Major
Major
Major

Zone A
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major

Zone B
Minor
Major
Major
Major
Minor
Minor
Major
Major
Major
Major
Minor
Major

Major
Major
Major
Major

22. Four Hole Button Sewn in Two Eyes or Upside Down

23. Buttons Not Securely Sewn
24. Sewn In Pleats on Outside
25. Uneven Pleating Shirring or Poor Sewn Pleats
26. Mismatch Plaid/Stripe upto 1/8
27. Mismatch Plaid/Stripe over 1/8
28. Improper Interlining, Excessive Fullness of Parts
29. Interlining Twisted or Garment Part Twisted
30. Bubble Formation at Collars Due to Improper Fusing of Interlining
31. Needle Chews Upto One per inch
32. Incorrect Thread or Accessories
33. Sharp Point/Edges on Hardware or Broken Needles
Pressing [Defect by Zone]
Defect
1.
Permanent Crease
2.
Pressing Not as Specified
3.
Burn Marks, Scorch Marks, Pressure Marks
Cleanliness [Defect by Zone]
Defect
1.
Attached Sewing Threads upto 1/4
2.
Attached Sewing Threads over 1/4
3.
Attached Threads Over 1/2 Inside Garment
4.
Sewn-In Waste or Thread
5.
Stain, Soil under 1/8
6.
Stain, Soil over 1/8
7.
Ring from Cleaning Gun or Rubbed Spots
8.
Drill Hole or Pencil Mark Visible
9.
Needle Chews or Feed Dog Abrasion
10. Component Parts not Securely Tacked
11. Mildew or Heavily Odoured Garments
Packing/Finishing Defects
Defects
1.
Improper Placement of Main, Size and Wash Care Label

ITC Quality Manual

March 99

Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Critical

Major
Major
Major
Major
Minor
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Critical

Zone A
Major
Major
Major

Zone B
Major
Major
Major

Zone A
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major

Zone B
Minor
Major
Major
Major
Minor
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major

Major

Major

2.
3.
4.
5.

Extra Buttons Not Present

Garment Fold not as Specified
Hangtags Missing
Incorrect Size Labels

ITC Quality Manual

March 99

Major
Major
Major
Major

Major
Major
Major
Major

ITCs Classification of Critical, Major and Minor Defects

Woven Bottoms
Appearance, Colour and Fabric[Defect by Zone]
Defect
1.
Dirt Spot
2.
Shaded Parts
3.
Shading between Garments
4.
Holes of any Size repaired or not
Sewing [Seams and Stitches Defects by Zone]
Defect
1.
Run off Stitches upto 1/8 on Outside
2.
Run off Stitches over 1/8
3.
Run off Stitches < or = 1/4 on Inside
4.
Run off Stitches > 1/4 on Inside
5.
One or More Skip Stitch on a Chain Stitch
6.
More than One Skip Stitch on a Lock Stitch
7.
One Skip Stitch on a Lock Stitch
8.
Incorrect Stitch Type
9.
Stitching Margin Variation Needle to Edge over 1/8
10. Any Exposed Stitch or Underpart
11. Blindstitch Bite Too Deep
12. Stitchcount Variation over +2 or -1 per inch
13. Tight Stitch, Thread Tension
14. Raw Edge, Open Seam, Lose Seam or Fraying
15. High/Low pocket Placement > + or - 1/8
16. Lips or Creases on Front Pocket
17. Exposed White Pocket Bag
18. Wavy or Malfunctioning Zipper
19. Uneven Yoke Seam [feed back Seam] < or = 1/4
20. Uneven Yoke Seam [feed back Seam] > 1/4

ITC Quality Manual

March 99

Zone A
Major
Major
Major
Major

Zone B
Major
Major
Major
Major

Zone A
Major
Major
Minor
Major
Major
Major
Minor
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Minor
Major

Zone B
Minor
Major
Minor
Major
Major
Major
Minor
Major
Minor
Minor
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major

21. Uneven Yoke Seam [Safety Stitch back Seam] < or = 1/8
22. Uneven Yoke Seam [Safety Stitch back Seam] > 1/8
23. Misaligned Fell seams over width of Topstitch
24. Uneven Pleating Shirring or Poor Sewn Pleats
25. Sewn in Pleat Inside< or = 1/4
26. Sewn in Pleat Inside > 1/4
27. Uneven or Misplaced Darts over 1/8
28. Waistband Width at ends [Front or Back] + or - 1/4
29. Alignment of Waistband over 1/8
30. Uneven Belt Loop Placement over 1/4
31. Belt Loop Missing or Slanting more than 1/8
32. Uneven hem Width > + or - 1/8 each side
33. Uneven Hem Front to Back > 1/4
34. Incorrect or Missing Bartack
35. Buttonholes with Irreparable or Broken Threads
36. Misplaced Button, Buttonhole or Hook and Eye over 1/8
37. Missing Button or Rivet
38. Severe Puckering and Badly Roped Hems
39. Improper lining, Excessive Fullness of Parts
40. Interlining or Garment Part Twisted
41. Crows Feet
42. Sharp Point/Edges on Hardware or Broken Needles
Pressing [Defect by Zone]
Defect
1.
Permanent Crease
2.
Poor Press
3.
Burn Marks, Scorch Marks, Pressure Marks
Cleanliness [Defect by Zone]
Defect
1.
One or more Sewing threads < or = on Outside
2.
One or more Sewing threads > or = on Outside
3.
Thread Cluster on Inside
4.
More than Four Threads > or One or More Threads >1 on Inside

ITC Quality Manual

March 99

Minor
Major
Major
Major
Minor
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major

Major
Major
Major

Major

Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Critical

Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Critical

Zone A
Major
Major
Major

Zone B
Major
Minor
Major

Zone A
Minor
Major
Major
Major

Zone B
Minor
Major
Major
Major

5.
Stain, Soil under 1/8 TO DO
6.
Stain, Soil over 1/8
7.
Ring from Cleaning Gun or Rubbed Spots
8.
Drill Hole or Pencil Mark Visible
9.
Needle Chews or Feed Dog Abrasion
10. Component Parts not Securely Tacked
11. Mildew or Heavily Odoured Garments
Packing/Finishing Defects
Defects
1.
Improper Placement of Main, Size and Wash Care Label
2.
Extra Buttons Not Present
3.
Garment Fold not as Specified
4.
Hangtags Missing
5.
Incorrect Size Labels

ITC Quality Manual

March 99

Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major

Minor
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major

Major
Major
Major
Major
Major

Major
Major
Major
Major
Major

ITCs Classification of Critical, Major and Minor Visual Defects

Knit Tops
Appearance, Colour and Fabric[Defect by Zone]
Defect
1.
Uneven Dye, Dirt Spot
2.
Shaded Parts
3.
Dye Misprints, Dye Smear
4.
Obvious Foreign or Colour Yarn
5.
Not Obvious Foreign or Colour Yarn
6.
Poor Matching of Colour or Print Patterns
7.
Texture Change
8.
Shading Between Garments
Fabric (Defect by Zone)
Defect
1.
Slubs ad Misweaves upto 1/8
2.
Holes of any Size Repaired or not
3.
Standard weight exceeding Tolerance
4.
Drop Stitch, Mend, Broken Stitch, End Down, Bent Needle, Needle Line
5.
Dye Discoloration, Streaks, Blotches, Print out of Register
6.
Bow or Bias fabric over 1 side to side
Sewing [Seams and Stitches Defects by Zone]
Defect
1.
Run off Stitches upto 1/8
2.
Run off Stitches over 1/8
3.
One or More Skip Stitch on any stitch type
4.
Incorrect Stitch Type
5.
Stitching Margin Variation Needle to Edge over 1/8
6.
Any Exposed Stitch or Underpart
7.
Blindstitch Bite Too Deep
8.
Stitchcount Variation over +2 or -1 per inch
9.
Tight Stitch, Thread Tension

ITC Quality Manual

March 99

Zone A
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major

Zone B
Major
Major
Major
Major
Minor
Major
Major
Major

Zone A
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major

Zone B
Minor
Major

Zone A
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major

Zone B
Minor
Major
Major
Major
Minor
Minor
Major
Major
Major

Major
Major
Major

10. Raw Edge, Open Seam, Lose Seam or Fraying

11. Misaligned front back over 1/8
12. Incorrect Placket width upto 1/8
13. Incorrect Placket width over 1/8
14. Mismatch Pockets, 4-way plaid match over 1/8
15. Uneven collar points over 1/8
16. Collar Overlap when Buttoned
17. Incorrect Size Buttonhole
18. Buttonholes Non-reparable, Anchored Threads or Broken Stitches
19. Incorrect Buttons
20. Missing Buttons
21. Buttons Out of Line on Top Center 1/8 Tolerance
22. Four Hole Button Sewn in Two Eyes or Upside Down
23. Buttons Not Securely Sewn
24. Sewn In Pleats on Outside
25. Uneven Pleating Shirring or Poor Sewn Pleats
26. Mismatch Plaid/Stripe upto 1/8
27. Mismatch Plaid/Stripe over 1/8
28. Improper Interlining, Excessive Fullness of Parts
29. Interlining Twisted or Garment Part Twisted
30. Crows feet
31. Needle Chews Upto One per inch
32. Incorrect Thread or Accessories
33. Severe Puckering and Badly Roped Hems
34. Incorrect or missing Bartack
35. Uneven hem > each side
36. Sharp Point/Edges on Hardware or Broken Needles
Pressing [Defect by Zone]
Defect
1.
Permanent Crease
2.
Poor Press
3.
Burn Marks, Scorch Marks, Pressure Marks
Cleanliness [Defect by Zone]

ITC Quality Manual

March 99

Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Critical

Major
Major
Major
Major
Major

Zone A
Major
Major
Major

Zone B
Major
Minor
Major

Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Minor
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Critical

Defect
1.
Attached threads upto
2.
Attached threads over
3.
Attached threads over inside of garment
4.
Sewn in waste or thread on outside
5.
Stain, Soil under 1/8
6.
Stain, Soil over 1/8
7.
Ring from Cleaning Gun or Rubbed Spots over
8.
Drill Hole or Pencil Mark Visible
9.
Needle Chews or Feed Dog Abrasion
10. Component Parts not Securely Tacked
11. Mildew or Heavily Odoured Garments
12. Nap up/down, shaded parts
13. Pile direction not as specified
Packing/Finishing Defects
Defects
1.
Improper Placement of Main, Size and Wash Care Label
2.
Extra Buttons Not Present
3.
Garment Fold not as Specified
4.
Hangtags Missing
5.
Incorrect Size Labels

ITC Quality Manual

March 99

Zone A
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major

Zone B
Minor
Major
Major
Major
Minor
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major

Major
Major
Major
Major
Major

Major
Major
Major
Major
Major

ITCs Classification of Critical, Major and Minor Defects

Sweaters
Appearance and Colour [Defect by Zone]
Defect
1.
Uneven dye,Dirt Spot
2.
Dye Misprint, Dye Smear
3.
Shaded Parts
4.
Poor match of colour
5.
Light Soil, Foreign Yarn, Visible Oil Stains
6.
Texture Changed
7.
Obvious Foreign or Coloured yarn
8.
Not obvious Foreign or Coloured Yarn
9.
Shading Between Garments
Knitting Components [Defect By Zone]
1.
Slubs and Misweaves
2.
Slubs larger than Loop
3.
Barre, bent Needle Slubs upto size of loop
4.
Hole, Dropped Stitch Not Repaired
5.
Slightly Improper Repair
6.
Any Pattern Error
7.
Biased Pattern Side to Side
Linking, Sewing [Seams and Stitches Defects by Zone]
Defect
1.
One or More Skip Stitch on a Chain Stitch
2.
Tight Stitch, Thread Tension
3.
Raw Edge, Open Seam, Lose Seam or Fraying
4.
Uneven Front Placket >1/8 at Bottom
5.
Incorrect Size Buttonhole
6.
Buttonholes Non-reparable, Anchored Threads or Broken Stitches
7.
Incorrect Buttons
8.
Missing Buttons

ITC Quality Manual

March 99

Zone A
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major

Zone B
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major

Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major

Major
Major
Major
Major
Minor
Major
Major

Zone A
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major

Zone B
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major

9.
Buttons Not Securely Sewn
10. Incorrect Thread or Accessories
11. Needle Perforation
12. Misaligned inserts, Pockets, Gussets over 1/8
13. Loose elastic Tension at bottom
14. Buttonholes with broken stitches
15. Misplaced Button over
16. Mismatch Stripes Sideseam upto (Plackets over )
17. Standard weight per garment out of tolerance
18. Sharp Point/Edges on Hardware or Broken Needles
Pressing [Defect by Zone]
Defect
1.
Permanent Crease
2.
Pressing Not as Specified
3.
Burn Marks, Scorch Marks, Pressure Marks
Cleanliness [Defect by Zone]
Defect
1.
Attached linking threads over
2.
Attached threads over 2 inside of garment
3.
Knot yarn ends upto
4.
Knot yarn ends over
5.
Pull Loop snags
6.
Stain, Soil under 1/8
7.
Stain, Soil over 1/8
8.
Ring from Cleaning Gun or Rubbed Spots
9.
Component Parts not Securely Tacked
10. Mildew or Heavily Odoured Garments
11. Pattern and garment asymmetric not more than 1
12. Shape not as specified
Packing/Finishing Defects
Defects
1.
Improper Placement of Main, Size and Wash Care Label
2.
Extra Buttons Not Present

ITC Quality Manual

March 99

Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Critical

Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major

Zone A
Major
Major
Major

Zone B
Major
Major
Major

Zone A
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major

Zone B
Major

Major
Major

Major
Major

Critical

Minor
Major
Minor
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major

3.
4.
5.

Garment Fold not as Specified

Hangtags Missing
Incorrect Size Labels

ITC Quality Manual

March 99

Major
Major
Major

Major
Major
Major

ITCs Classification of Critical, Major and Minor Visual Defects

Woven and Knit Jackets
Appearance, Colour and Fabric[Defect by Zone]
Defect
1.
Uneven Dye, Dirt Spot, Streak
2.
Shaded Parts
3.
Dye Misprints, Dye Smear
4.
Obvious Foreign or Colour Yarn
5.
Not Obvious Foreign or Colour Yarn
6.
Poor Matching of Colour or Print Patterns
7.
Texture Change
8.
Shading Between Garments
Fabric (Defect by Zone)
Defect
1.
Slubs ad Misweaves upto 1/8, Clearly contrasted dye smear
2.
Slubs and Misweaves over
3.
Holes of any size, repaired or not, needle cut, tear
4.
Fabric not as specified
5.
Barre, Bent Needle Slubs upto size of Loop
6.
Improper Repairs
7.
Any Pattern Errors
Sewing [Seams and Stitches Defects by Zone]
Defect
1.
Run off Stitches upto 1/8
2.
Run off Stitches over 1/8
3.
One or More Skip Stitch on any stitch type
4.
Incorrect Stitch Type
5.
Stitching Margin Variation Needle to Edge over 1/8
6.
Any Exposed Stitch or Underpart
7.
Blindstitch Bite Too Deep

ITC Quality Manual

March 99

Zone A
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major

Zone B
Major
Major
Major
Major
Minor
Major
Major
Major

Zone A
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major

Zone B
Minor
Major
Major
Major
Minor
Minor
Major

Zone A
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
-

Zone B
Minor
Major
Major
Major
Minor
Minor
Major

8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
16.
17.
18.
19.
20.
21.
22.
23.
24.
25.
26.
27.
28.
29.
30.
31.
32.
33.
34.
35.
36.
37.
38.
39.

Stitchcount Variation over +2 or -1 per inch

Tight Stitch, Thread Tension
Raw Edge, Open Seam, Lose Seam or Fraying
Misaligned Front/Back over 1/8
Incorrect Placket Width upto 1/8
Incorrect Placket Width over 1/8
Mismatch Pockets, 4-way plaid match over 1/16
Uneven collar points over 1/8
Collar Overlap when Buttoned
Incorrect Size Buttonhole
Buttonholes Non reparable, Anchored Threads or Broken Stitches
Incorrect Buttons
Missing Buttons
Buttons Out of Line on Top Center 1/8 Tolerance
Four Hole Button Sewn in Two Eyes or Upside Down
Buttons Not Securely Sewn
Sewn In Pleats on Outside
Uneven Pleating Shirring or Poor Sewn Pleats
Mismatch Plaid/Stripe upto 1/8
Mismatch Plaid/Stripe over 1/8
Improper Interlining, Excessive Fullness of Parts
Interlining Twisted or Garment Part Twisted
Needle Chews Upto One per inch
Incorrect Thread or Accessories
Severe Puckering and Badly Roped Hems
Incorrect or missing bartack
Malfunctioning, Wavy or Incorrect Zipper
Misplaced Buttonhole or Hook and Eye over 1/8
Misplaced Button over 1/8 or Missing Button
Misplaced Rivet over 1/8 or Missing Rivet
Crows Feet
Sharp Point/Edges on Hardware or Broken Needles

ITC Quality Manual

March 99

Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Critical

Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major

Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Minor
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Critical

Pressing [Defect by Zone]

Defect
1.
Permanent Crease
2.
Poor Press
3.
Burn Marks, Scorch Marks, Pressure Marks
Cleanliness [Defect by Zone]
Defect
1.
Attached threads upto
2.
Attached threads over
3.
Attached threads over inside of garment
4.
Sewn in waste or thread on outside
5.
Stain, Soil under 1/8
6.
Stain, Soil over 1/8
7.
Ring from Cleaning Gun or Rubbed Spots over
8.
Drill Hole or Pencil Mark Visible
9.
Needle Chews or Feed Dog Abrasion
10. Component Parts not Securely Tacked
11. Mildew or Heavily Odoured Garments
12. Nap up/down, shaded parts
13. Pile direction not as specified
Packing/Finishing Defects
Defects
1.
Improper Placement of Main, Size and Wash Care Label
2.
Extra Buttons Not Present
3.
Garment Fold not as Specified
4.
Hangtags Missing
5.
Incorrect Size Labels

ITC Quality Manual

March 99

Zone A
Major
Major
Major

Zone B
Major
Minor
Major

Zone A
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major

Zone B
Minor
Major
Major
Major
Minor
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major

Major
Major
Major
Major
Major

Major
Major
Major
Major
Major