Spring for lamb

by Robin Barr Sussman Illustration by Chris Hsu

When spring arrives, we think of new beginnings. So along with asparagus and spring peas,
fragrant, earthy lamb starts appearing on seasonal menus. We set out to sample some of the citys
best. From classic roasted lamb entrees to a few surprise dishes, heres where to go out on a lamb.
BRENNANS OF HOUSTON

3300 Smith St., 713-522-9711

Jazzed lamb. You can always find a

sensational lamb dish here, either on
the daily changing menu or the holiday
menu (think #Mothers Day). From
the new wood-burning grill, look for
tangy Creole mustard-crusted Colorado
lamb chops served with Brussels sprouts,
roasted sweet potatoes, Texas lamb bacon
(yes!) and mint Julep sauce (double
yes). We approve.
PRICE: MARKET
SCORE: 9

HELEN GREEK FOOD AND WINE

2429 Rice Blvd., 832-831-7133

Greek treat. Chef William Wright

creates a modern take on the Greek
lamb meatball starter with this hearty
blend of lamb with beef. The six Cypriot
meatballs, which are pan roasted until
still juicy, come sauce-less but with a

COOK IT YOURSELF

Looking for lamb recipes to

add to your repertoire? Turn to
page 20 for three recipes from
Houston chefs.

salad of potato, chickpea and fresh dill

center of the plate. Very refreshing.
PRICE: $28 FULL ORDER
SCORE: 9
KIRANS

4100 Westheimer Rd., 713-960-8472

Lamb central. Kiran Vermas Indian

stalwart serves about five lamb dishes,
but the berry demi-glace lamb rack
grabbed us at first bite. Its coated in a
masala-coffee spice rub, then marinated
and cooked carefully in the tandoori
so it is moist and rosy. Garnished with
blackberry demi-glace, spring onions and
rosemary, these chops are gorgeous.
PRICE: $39
SCORE: 10

PAPPAS BROS. STEAKHOUSE

1200 McKinney St., 713-658-1995, and

other location

Classic rack. Sometimes if you want

the biggest and best lamb chops, you
have to go to a fine steakhouse. This
prized Colorado lamb rack is butchered
in-house and gets some dry aging before
being cooked to specs in a high-tech
vertical broiler. The result is sweet, mild
and tender plump chops served the
classic way, with mint jelly.
PRICE: MARKET
SCORE: 10

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APRIL MAY 2016

PONDICHERI

2800 Kirby Dr., 713-522-2022

Ba-aah bomb. This giant lamb mint

burger is a mainstay on the menu and
now we know why. First, it blows the
standard beef burger away on major patty
flavor. Second, the spicy, creamy cilantro
chutney and onion masala spread on
the buttery brioche buns creates a taste
sensation in every bite. The house-made
feta spread on top of the meat doesnt
hurt a thing either. Oh, take it away.
PRICE $12
SCORE: 10

RUGGLES BLACK

3963 Kirby Dr., 832-530-4493

Exotic topper. For something truly

different, sample the lamb pie. Not only
is this a great pizza but a great rendition
of a lamb pizza. The puffy, wood-fired
crust perfectly cradles generous fillings of
crumbled spicy Black Hills Ranch lamb
sausage, sweet roasted cherry tomatoes,
scallions and red onions, plus Indian
spices. Try to stop at one slice.
PRICE $19.50
SCORE: 9

Robin Barr Sussman is a freelance food

writer with a culinary mission: great taste.