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ASSQC

Buyers Manual Analysis

Ayush Gautam , Prerna Khatri , Ravi Kant Singh

BUYERS MANUAL CONTENTS

I) Introduction.............................................................................7
Liaison Office Quality Assurance Contacts....................................7
Basic Quality Assurance Expectations..........................................8
II) Fabric Inspection Program......................................................10
Four Point System....................................................................11
Defect Classification.................................................................11
Fabric Inspection......................................................................12
Knit Bundle Inspections............................................................14
Color Program Basics................................................................14
Run Cards and Shade Bands......................................................15
Trim and Raw Material Inspections.............................................16
III) Fabric Testing Basics.............................................................18
Finished Garment Testing Summary...........................................18
Testing Evaluation and Reporting..............................................19
IV) Cutting and Spreading Inspections........................................20
Monitoring Spreading and Cutting.............................................20
Important Points For Knits........................................................21
Spreading and Cutting QC Inspector Procedures.........................21
Cutting Room Inspector Procedures...........................................22
Manual Cutting Inspections.......................................................22
CNC / Computer Cutting............................................................23
Bierrebi (B-R-B)........................................................................23
V) In-process Inspections...........................................................24
Inspector Procedures................................................................24
Summary of the Follow-up Bundle Process.................................25

VI) Additional Monitoring...........................................................26

Seam Seal / Bonding.................................................................26
Measurement Procedures..........................................................27
Pre-Final Inspections................................................................27
Quality Reports and Daily Meeting.............................................27
Quality Standards.....................................................................27
Display and Organizational Boards.............................................27
Recognition and Incentive Programs..........................................28
Defect Codes............................................................................ 28
Pilot Lots.................................................................................28
Vestibule Training.....................................................................28
VII) Final Inspection...................................................................29
VIII) The Final Audit Process.......................................................30
Random Sampling.....................................................................30
Sampling Plans.........................................................................30
When to Inspect.......................................................................30
Single Sampling Plan for Normal Inspection...............................32
Using the How To Measure Manual.........................................33
Re-Audits................................................................................. 33
VIII) Qualified Factory Inspector Program.....................................35
APPENDIXES...............................................................................36
I)

Broken Needle and Auxiliary Sewing Tool Policy.......................36

II) Down Product Compliance Overview........................................40

CCS 151 Test Lab Requirements.................................................40
CCS 152 Down Suppliers...........................................................40
CCS 153 Factory Monitoring and Testing....................................41

CCS 154 Finished Goods Factory In-Process and Final Inspection

Monitoring...............................................................................42
CCS 155 Finished Goods Testing................................................43
CCS 156 Fully Vertical Down Supplier Testing.............................43
CCS 157 CSC QC Monitoring.......................................................44

(III) Finished Garment Testing.....................................................54

Requirement............................................................................54
Procedure................................................................................54
Testing Evaluation and Reporting..............................................56
Torque / Skew........................................................................... 57
(IV) CCS 1800 Seam Tape Commercialization................................60
CCS 1801 Seam Seal Trial Condition...........................................60
CCS 1802 Seam Seal Machine Calibration Procedures.................62
CCS 1803 Testing Requirements................................................62
CCS 1804 In-Process Seam Seal Testing Procedures....................63
CCS 1805 Finished Product Garment Washing Procedures...........64
CCS 1806 Seam Seal Troubleshooting........................................65
CCS 1807 Seam Seal Tape Storage Examples..............................67
CCS 1808 Seam Seal Exterior Appearance Examples...................68
CCS 1809 Seam Seal Interior Appearance Examples....................69
CCS 1810 Seam Seal Test Report Form.......................................70
CCS 1811 Seam Seal Machine Calibration Report Form................71
(V) Heat Transfer/Screen Print Quality Requirements....................72
CCS 1850 Heat Transfer/Screenprint Commercialization..............72
CCS 1851 Application Equipment Requirements..........................73
CCS 1852 Heat Transfer/Screenprint Development Testing..........73
CCS 1854 Heat Transfer Machine Calibration Procedures.............74
CCS 1855 Heat Transfer Pre-Production Testing Requirements. . . .75
CCS 1856 In-Process Heat Transfer/Screenprint Audit Procedures 76

CCS 1857 Finished Product Garment Washing Procedures...........77

CCS 1858 Heat Transfer/Screen Print Troubleshooting.................77
CCS 1860 Heat Transfer Exterior Appearance Examples..............78
CCS 1861 Heat Transfer/Screenprint Wash Test Report Form.......79
CCS 1862 Heat Transfer Machine Calibration Report Form...........80

(VI) Puckering Standards.............................................................81

Double Needle Puckering Standards..........................................81
Single Needle Puckering Standards...........................................82
(VII) A & E Technical Bulletin........................................................83
Sewing Machine Maintenance....................................................83
Sewing Maintenance Checklists.........................................................83
Preventative Maintenance..................................................................83
Stitch Forming System.........................................................................84
Thread Handling System.....................................................................84
Other Thread Handling Systems........................................................86
Stitch & Seam Quality..........................................................................86
(VIII) Factory Apparel Sizing Audits..............................................88
(IX) Packaging Compliance Audits................................................91
Inspection Procedures..............................................................92
Lot Integrity and Selection..................................................................92
Packaging Compliance Audits.............................................................92
Auditing the Cartons............................................................................92
Auditing the Contents..........................................................................92
Packaging Defects................................................................................93
Audit Results.........................................................................................93
Audit Failures.........................................................................................93
(X) QFI Introduction....................................................................94
(XI) Form Examples.....................................................................96

Garment Wash Test Reporting Form Example..............................96

Fabric Inspection Sample Form..................................................97
Fabric Inspection Worksheet.....................................................97
Fabric Inspection Tally Sheet 1 Form Example.............................98
Fabric Inspection Tally Sheet 2 Form Example.............................99
Fabric Inspection Summary Report Form..................................100
Cutting Quality Control Inspection Form Example.....................101
Sample Sizing Worksheet Form Example..................................102
Re-Audit Requirements and Form............................................103
Inline Inspection Form Example...............................................104

FABRIC INSPECTION
The factory uses Four Point System to formally inspect incoming fabric prior
to spreading/cutting.
o Strong Quality Systems and a Continuous Improvement program in
place to ensure quality and delivery excellence. They will soon begin a
Mill Evaluation program to rate their programs.
o The mill has become or is working to become a CSC Certified Testing
Lab and has first bulk approved by a Certified Lab.
o Quality monitoring and testing of each production run in-house;
providing results to factories
o Completes griege and finished goods inspections using the Four Point
System; CSC allows a maximum of 20 pt/100 sq yd for woven goods,
28 pts/100 sq yd for knits and a maximum of 20 points per square yard
average for all rolls within a lot.
Columbia recommends a minimum 10% inspection of all piece goods prior to
spreading based upon the Four Point System.
AREA FOR INSPECTION:
The inspection area should be open, clean and have good lighting over
inspection frames and the work area. Fabric rolls should not be staged
standing on end. The inspection should take place on a clean, properly lit,
inspection machine that is appropriate for the fabric type and size.
Equipment:

Inspection frame: The frame should be equipped with a variable speed drive,
a yard (or meter) counter, under carriage light to see through the fabric and
overhead light for inspection of the face of the fabric. The factory should
have positive feed machine to avoid stretching the fabric. Many knits will
require an appropriate inspection machine.
Inspection speed: The frame is capable of running up to 30 yards of fabric
per minute (27 meters per minute) and includes both forward and reverse
controls.
Viewing Distance: The inspection is done from a distance of 2 to 4 feet (60
to 120 centimeters) in order to have a view of the entire width of fabric.
Lighting: The surface illumination level is of minimum 1075 lux (100 foot
candles).
Tools:
The tools listed below are used for the fabric inspection:
o Measuring tape and defect stickers or swift-tacks
o Scissors and protective folders or bags
o Inspection form and defect standards
o Fabric standards and access to light box

Four Point System

o Amount to Inspect
Inspects at least 10% of the total rolls and yardage in the
shipment. To meet the requirement of both the buyer and
manufacturer, more than 10% of the rolls or yardage is needed
to be inspected.
o Selection of Rolls
Random selection of at least one roll of each color is done for the
inspection. If more than one roll per color is inspected, then they
select the number of additional rolls in proportion to the total
rolls per color received.
All colors and dye lots are included in this 10%, and more than
10% if necessary.
For problem fabric or trim vendors, the 10% is increased and the
inspection is done on individual dye lots instead of all colors.

Fabric Inspection
Major Defects
Any defect severe enough that it would result in customer dissatisfaction, or
generally classify the garment as a second, or of less quality.
Minor Defects
An imperfection that may or may not cause a second, depending upon its
location in the finished garment.
They maintain ongoing defect recognition training to ensure consistency
among all internal and external Inspectors. This includes having an updated
fabric library.
Other Considerations
o Shade must match the approved standard from side to side and end to
end throughout the roll
o Do not score minor defects, although they mark them
o Do not count more than a total of four points per one linear yard
o Continuous running defects and others within one linear yard is only 4
points
o All holes are considered 4 points

Primary Steps
Columbia Sportswear highly recommends all factories begin to test and
inspect each fabric shipment immediately upon receipt.
Knit Bundle Inspections
The Four Point System to determine acceptability still applies.
o If delicate knits are involved, a normal inspection frame may stretch
the fabric
A tubular knit inspection machine allows both sides to be inspected
Should be ran slow enough to see both sides
Mirrors must be clean to notice defects
o Knit bundles can be inspected on an appropriate table
o Ensures inspection coverage of both sides for tubular knits
Color and Shade Control

A formal Color Control program is recommended and includes appropriate

communication between the Fabric Mill, Trims Supplier, Factory and Retailer.
The Piece Goods Inspection, Testing, Cutting Department, Production and QC
Teams work closely to ensure color and shade accuracy and consistency is
met and maintained.
Color and Shade Control Basics
o Each fabric roll or bundle is checked for proper shade match
o 6-8 wide swatch is cut from edge to edge or wide enough to cover a
repeat
o Compared to standard under light box - usually 2 equal layers/plies
o Use head in swatch to compare side-side and end to end of inspected
rolls
o Shade run cards kept to log all received rolls and used to improve mill
performance
o Keep approved, dated standard swatch, clean, covered and out of light
o Certain fabrics such as synthetics are more difficult to shade.
TRIM AND RAW MATERIAL INSPECTIONS
Inspection takes place on all incoming trim items including, all labels, snaps,
buttons, zippers, Velcro, phemos, tapes, elastics, eyelets, patches, packing
materials etc..
o A 1.5 AQL Normal or Tightened sampling is used to accept individual
quantities
If a consignment is less than 500 pieces, inspect at least 10%
randomly or a min of 20 pieces, whichever is higher
o For rolls of trim, follow the principles of the Four Point System,
inspecting a min. of 10%
Inspections include:
o Shade, color, size, design, layout, wording where appropriate, PDM
number, graphics
o Compared to the approved sew-by sample
o General quality and consistency
o Quantity received against packing list and ordered quantity
o Product Safety implications no metal is used in the packaging of
materials and is checked through a metal detector
o All non-confirming goods to be segregated, clearly marked and stored
separately
o Failed lots are inspected 100% and re-audited
o Trim cards are approved by Columbia Sportswear QA

SINGLE SAMPLING PLAN FOR NORMAL INSPECTION

TRIMS/FINDINGS/RAW MATERIALS
(FOR ITEMS OF QUANTITY)

AQL ACCEPTED BY BUYER

Acceptable Quality Levels

(normal inspection)

.65

PO or
Lot Size

Sample Size

2-8

Ac

1.0

Re

Ac

1.5

Re

Ac

Re

9 - 15

16 - 25

26 - 50

51 - 90

13

91 - 150

20

151 - 280

32

281 - 500

50

501 - 1,200

80

1201 - 3,200

125

3201 10,000

200

10,001
35,000

315

10

11

500

10

11

14

15

150,001
-500,000

800

10

11

14

15

21

22

500,001 and
over

800

10

11

14

15

21

22

35,001
150,000

This plan should is also shared used by the Trim/Accessories suppliers, at the
same .65 level, to reduce the differences in inspection results. A Scorecard is
used to trend performance of all suppliers.

Tests to perform depends upon product but primarily includes:

o
o
o
o
o

Dimensional Stability ( Shrinkage)

Appearance Retention
Bleeding (Color fastness)
Skewness (Torque)
Wet and Dry Crocking

Important Points for Knits

o Establish and follow a formal procedure to relax knits as long as
necessary, prior to spreading, after spreading and after cutting as
warranted by fabric characteristics.
o Spreading machine is monitored for a very relaxed speed and lack of
tension.

o Spreading machines without de-tensioning capability (positive feed), is

not used for knits.
o Ply heights of knits are controlled and are appropriate to the actual
cutting method.
o Place pattern correctly on quarter turned fabric so the fold falls on the
side of a garment.
SPREADING AND CUTTING QC INSPECTOR PROCEDURES
Inspectors monitor and record results for each Spreader, a minimum of twice
per day. A formal marker approval process is in place and all fabric and
documents are also approved prior to release. Any relaxation needs are
verified. The primary characteristic to monitor in spreading includes:
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o

Edge and end alignment (CTC- critical to cost)

Tension of spread
(CTQ- critical to quality)
Table marks
Splices and overlaps
Accuracy of marker including condition
Marker placement
Pattern check
Cuttable width
Direction and type of spread
Ply counts
Straight edge / leaning
Bowing of fabric
Shading and general quality
No staples or pins should be used

Inspectors monitor and record results for each Cutter a minimum of twice per
day. The primary characteristic to monitor in cutting includes:
o
o
o
o

Ply matching
Mis-cuts
Poor cutting or edges
Notch depth and placement

Testing Evaluation and Reporting

The following table lists key points evaluated (if applicable) for each
garment tested.

Category
Fabric

Item
Dimensional
Stability

Skewness ( torque )

Fabric Surface

Pilling
Snagging
Pile

Components
&
Embellishmen
ts

Assessment Criteria
Based on fiber content, see CSC
500A , Note any differential
shrinkage , Puckering between
linings, panels, and /or other
components of the garment
Less than 5% for tops, 3% for
bottoms
3 or better using ASTM Photographic
pilling standards.
Any noticeable picks or snags are not
acceptable
Note any bald spots, loss of coverage

Bleeding/ Color
change

Rate after I and 3 laundering cycles

using AATCC Grey Scales for Color
Change and Staining

Seams/stitches/eyel
ets
/buttonholes
Screen prints/Heat
transfers
Patches/Embroidery

Grinning, broken, puckered, overall

appearance

Tape/piping

Adherence, wash out, durability,

overall appearance
Puckering, fraying, bleeding, overall
appearance
Puckering, delaminating, blistering,
overall appearance
Puckering, paint chipping( LEAD
based ), rough or sharp edges,
proper installation,. Check the
function of fasters/closures by
operating 5 times
Overall appearance, distortion,
pilling, fibrillation, etc.
Puckering, overall appearance

Elastic

Elasticity, twisting, curling

Drawcord

Wash durability, overall appearance,

proper tacking
Clumping, migration, resiliency

Lining/fusing,
lamination
Fasteners:
Hook/Loop, zippers,
buttons, etc.
Rib collars and Cuffs

Fiberfill/Down

Torque / Skew

Figure 1; Procedure for finding Torque/Skew using the Side Seam method
Length of G (G1)
Torque/Skew = -------------------- X 100
Length of EG

Figure 2; Procedure for finding the Torque/Skew using AATCC method 179
Length of A (A1)
Torque/Skew = -------------------- X 100
Length of AB

Thread Requirements
Basic join seam thread requirements are Polyester Core spun with
Polyester Wrap quality.

o Tex 24
o Ticket 120

Seam Leaking
Problem
A. Tape does not Bond

Possible Cause
Roll Mounted Backwards
Wrong Tape
Wrong Sealing Conditions
Oil or soil on tape or coating

B. Tape Sticks to Roller

Roll Mounted Backwards

Nozzle temperature too high

C. Tape Bond is Weak

Speed too fast; heat is too low

Wrong Tape
Nozzle doesnt move synchronously
with upper roller
Insufficient roller pressure

D. Edge or center of tape not sealing Rollers are not making proper
contact
Air Nozzle not adjusted properly

Nozzle obstructed by dust or other

dirt
E. Tape splits at stitch or seam

Heat too high

Excessive roller pressure
Upper or Lower roller deformed and
not round

F. Tape burns through fabric or

chars

Heat too high; speed too low

Air Nozzle not adjusted properly
Wrong Tape

G. Seams leak at crossover points

Speed too fast; heat is too low

H. Tape wraps around rollers

Wrong Tape
Tape cut too long
Roll Mounted Backwards

I. Excessive Puckering

Lack of tension
Wrong Tape

DOUBLE NEEDLE PUCKERING STANDARDS

Standard #: CCS 2006

DN1

DN2

DN3

DN4

DN5

The above codes can be used to describe the level of puckering you
see. DN3, DN4 and DN5 are considered unacceptable before and/or
after pressing.

SINGLE NEEDLE PUCKERING STANDARDS

Standard # CCS 2006

DN1

DN2

DN3

DN4

DN5

The above codes can be used to describe the level of puckering you
see. DN3 are considered marginal at best, DN4 and DN5 are
considered unacceptable before and/or after pressing.

The photos below demonstrate examples of poor appearance of

seam tape application.

Roping seam appearance begins

with improper topstitching and is
permanently set when seam seal
tape is applied. Roping can also
lead to puckering at edge of seam

tape.

Puckering appearance is caused from too much hand pulling from seam
seal operator while cloth is under the feed rollers of seam seal machine.
Secondary cause can be if too much pressure and heat are used for tape
application

Waving appearance is caused from

too much hand pulling from seam
seal operator while cloth is under
the feed rollers of seam seal
machine. Secondary cause can be
if too much pressure and heat are
used for tape application

The below photos demonstrate interior seam tape application issues that will
result in leakage and cause product failure.
Seam pullout and uneven
seam trimming where the face
fabric is showing. This will
cause seam leakage.

Seam allowance should lay flat

and not be twisted within the
seam to be taped. This
intersection is especially thick
due to all the seams coming

1. Loose topstitch thread

caught into the seam tape.

2. Uneven seam trimming.

Heat Transfer Exterior Appearance Examples

Most poor appearance issues are caused from incorrect temperature,
pressure or dwell time application parameters being followed to
manufactures suggestions. The below photos demonstrate examples of poor
appearance of Heat Transfer application.

Peeling appearance is a failure of

the heat transfer to bond to the
face fabric and we see complete
failure.

Edge Lift or Halo appearance is the

glued edges of the heat transfer have
not affixed itself to the face fabric.

Cracking or Bubbling appearance

is demonstrated with a single part of
the artwork failing.

FINISHED PRODUCT GARMENT

WASHING

o Observe for any seam

appearance abnormalities on face side of garment including
puckering, pulling, waving, roping.
o Monitor for any color stain or migration on tape from fabric coating.
o Watch for any coating that is peeled from fabric or air bubbles
inside.
Any abrasions on the edge of seam tape.
o Seam taping appearance, peeling at cross or join seams, general
peeling or lifting of tape.
Causes for Seam Leaking
a) Seam Tape pleats, bubbles or dirt under the tape.
b) Thread ends. All threads are to be neatly trimmed close to stitches.
c) All seams are to be trimmed or sewn to 1/4, when the seam is finished
with topstitching and 1/8 if there is no join seam topstitching.
d) All tape is to be applied centered in the width of the seam allowance. If
tape is applied to close to the seam edge it will cause failure.
e) All small or short length seams are to be taped first and the long length
seams last.
f) All tape is to be trimmed at the end of the seal. If unsealed tape is
taped over itself, this will cause failure.
g) Tape should not extend more than 1 passed the end of a seam, Velcro,
label, embroidery or other taped areas. This requirement is to improve
the outer appearance as well as control seam tape usage.
h) All seam tape should run to the end of the fabric or join seam. No
starts and stops in the middle of a join seam as this will lead to failure.
i) Topically applied labels are required to be sealed with less roller
pressure to prevent failure of label.
j) If an area of tape has not sealed properly, it is acceptable for a second
application of heat and pressure with a seam seal machine without a
second layer of tape.

k) All seams are required to be taped before the front zipper is set. If this
is not completed in this sequence, this will create a small space next to
the zipper that the tape machine cannot seal that will result in a
failure.
l) Face side of the fabric in seam allowance should not be showing as this
will not seal properly and cause failure.
m) If tape machine is running to hot, the ends of the tape when stopping
will fail and cause a beading appearance and be hard in texture.
Adjust the machine properly to eliminate hot ends and trim the
unsightly beads from the tape.
n) Incorrect air nozzle positioning can result in improper sealing,
scorching or burn-through of tape.
o) Confirm that the Air nozzle and roller are the proper width for tape
being applied.
p) Both nozzle and rollers should be approximately 1/8 (3 mm) wider
than the tape to ensure effective sealing. The nozzle should also be
centered to cover the width of the tape.
q) Partial seam seal tape starts and stops should be finished with cross
over press to ensure proper adhesion.
Heat Transfer/Screenprint Selection
o During product commercialization, the Heat Transfer/Screenprint
artwork has been generated and applied to commercialized fabric to
confirm fabric application compatibility.
o All Heat Transfer/Screenprint has been tested and approved by the
Trims Research and Product Development teams for both art quality
and adherence to the commercialized fabric.
o Heat Transfer/Screenprint Vendor testing documentation is saved in
PDM under the Heat Transfer/Screenprint PDM item number.
Heat Transfer Receiving Inspection
Inspections are to be completed on all incoming all heat transfer labels by
factory.

o .65 AQL Normal or Tightened Heat Transfer sampling is used to accept

individual quantities.
o If a shipment is less than 500 pieces, inspects 100%.
Inspection requirements include:
o Shade, color, size, design, layout, wording where appropriate, PDM
number, graphics
o Compared to the approved sample
o General quality and consistency
o Quantity received against packing list and ordered quantity

o All non-conforming goods to be segregated, clearly marked and stored

separately
Failed lots are to be inspected 100% and re-audit
Appearance Considerations
o Heat Transfer/Screenprints have the same elasticity as the fabric so
that it can move with the fabric when the Heat Transfer/Screenprint is
applied.
There should be no cracking, peeling or bubbling appearance on the Heat
Transfer/Screenprint
Heat Transfer Pre-Production Testing Requirements
Requirements
Before production begins, Heat Transfer trial test is done to assure the
compatibility of Heat Transfer and fabric in a production environment. This
test is to be completed against each lot and color of fabric.
o Apply Heat Transfer to the commercialized fabric as per Heat Transfer
manufacturers instructions.
o Record Heat Transfer application parameters directly on the fabric
along with machine type or machine number
a) Heating Plate Pressure
b) Heating plate temperature
c) Dwell time

Procedure
Heat Transfer/Screen printed garments and gloves are laundered to the
labeled care instructions 3 times for either machine or hand wash
instructions. Select two garments from production for wash test selection.
Use one garment as a control sample for visual appearance comparisons
and the other two are laundered.
Factory is records the wash test findings. The following items are included
in the evaluation:
a) Overall aesthetics of transfer: Artwork, size, color, shade,
design, layout, wording, graphic, PDM number where applicable
b) Peeling: Examine all corners, edges of transfer to see any
symptom of peeling off.
c) Color migration/bleeding: Check to see any visibility of fabric
color migrated through transfer.
d) Cracking: Notice any cracking on transfer.
e) Visible bonding border: Notice any obvious bonding border
around transfer.
f) Plate mark: Check to see any noticeable plate marked around
transfer.
g) Stretching (for transfer heated on stretchable fabric): Hold the
heated panel at least 10cm from nearest transfer edge both sides,
stretch it up to 30% of its original dimension 3 times, release and
check if any de-bonding and/or cracking happens. Repeat this for
other direction.
Causes for poor adhesion
a) Application parameters not being followed for temperature, pressure
and dwell time.
b) Poor maintenance and calibration of machinery.
c) Incorrect machinery used for application.
d) Carrier paper removed too soon.
e) Uneven heat plate temperature.
f) Dirt under the heat plate.
g) Old heat transfers
h) Improperly stored, or missing the carrier paper
i) Never tested with passing results

Sewing Maintenance Checklists

An area that Columbia Sportswear is very concerned with is the condition of

the sewing floor and of the sewing machine basic setups and maintenance.
These directly impact:
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o

Seam Quality, Appearance and Durability

Operator Productivity & Earnings
Sewing Operator Morale
Manufacturing Through-Put Time
Products Produced May Require Greater Inspection
Higher Costs and Lower Profits
Consumer Dissatisfaction
Loss of Brand-Name Credibility

Preventative Maintenance
o Check to see if the machines are being kept clean:
Machines areblown off every day to remove lint and trash*.
On lockstitch machines, the hook are blown off regularly during the
day to prevent lint or dirt from building up in the oil ports in the race
of the hook.
o Check to see that the machines are being lubricated regularly:
Oil levels are checked daily and additional oil added if necessary.
Randomly check the oil levels in the machines.
High quality white machine oil is used, that will not stain.
Check availability of proper machine oil in the factory.
Check to make sure the oil is not contaminated.
o Check to see that oil reservoir pump filters are cleaned regularly:
If compressed air is used, they make sure the air system is
regulated properly and has humidity dryers, filters, and lubricator in
the air lines.
Check for rusted areas due to excessive moisture in production
area.
o Check machines for wear on critical moving parts:
Check for shake in needle bar due to worn needle bar bushings.
Check for excessive movement in stitch forming devices, etc.
Check condition of critical screws:
Check for missing screws.
Check for defective screws that are difficult to tighten properly.
Check condition of mechanics tools to see that they are being
maintained properly.
*With buttonhole or other specialized equipment, cleaning of the machine is
not done with compressed air but with a soft bristle brush.

Stitch & Seam Quality

Lockstitch seams:
o Check to see that the stitch looks the same on both the top and bottom
of the seam.
o If back tacking is required, they make sure the correct number of
stitches are used in the back tack.
o Make sure the proper SPI are being used.
o Make sure the correct seam allowance (margin) is being maintained
Chain stitch seams:
o Make sure the stitch is balanced properly.
o Check for excessive seam grinning.
o Looper thread should roll over.
Over edge seams:
Check for proper stitch balance.
Check for excessive seam grinning.
Check for proper seam extensibility or stitch elongation.
Check to make sure that the purl is on the edge of the seam.
Check to make sure the knives are trimming the fabric cleanly.
Check to make sure the correct seam allowance (margin) is being
maintained.
o Observe operator handling for excessive trim.
o If latch-tacking, make sure the chain is sewn into the seam properly.
o
o
o
o
o
o

Skipped Stitches:
o Check areas where frequent skips have been observed.
o Observe where one seam crosses another seam.
o Check to see if the skip occurs on thickness or after thickness.
CONCLUSION
According to the buyers manual of Columbia sportswear,
The basic inspection criteria is same as other factories that is four
point system for fabric inspection.
This manual also provides a guide about what are the reason for
certain defects or problems in the products and suggest the remedies.
Provides the instruction for the heat transfer printing and the defects
that can be take place in printing.

Provides the test report samples and forms, which makes it easy for
both parties to understand the certain report in certain format.
Seam tape commercialization is also there in manual which is not
necessary.
It also provides a brief about the different quality inspection points and
requirement of them to maintain the quality.
Different audit forms are also provided in the manual.
The manual does not give a good idea about sampling and stages of
sampling which should be there.
With Sampling, Packaging and Labeling criteria is also not mentioned.
Overall the manual provides a brief about quality and audit and test reports
and severe defects regarding garment manufacturing.