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More than 2,000 years old, the festival is a meeting point for the Hindu sadhus, some who live in
forests or Himalayan caves, and who belong to dozens of inter-related congregations. The sects have
their own administration and elect SEO Greece leaders, but are also known for violent clashes with
each other.
Some naked, some wrapped in saffron or leopard-print cloth and smoking cannabis pipes, the holy
men hold court by fire pits in sprawling camps decorated with colored neon lights, where they are
visited by pilgrims who proffer alms and get blessings.
Despite their asceticism, the sects, known as akharas, are moving with the times. Swami
Avdheshanand Giri Ji, who leads one of the main groups, has a Facebook page. Some gurus advertise
on billboards and posters to attract followers, others drive trucks and chat on cellphones.
At the riverbank, men with dreadlocked beards to their feet vied for media attention with yogis
supporting heavy weights with their genitals, while others holding golden umbrellas, flags and
swords rubbed sand on their bodies after the dip.
"I feel pleasure," grinned Digambar Navraman Giri," who said he had not sat down for a year, even
sleeping on foot. "This is why I became a sadhu," he said, steam rising from his body in the cold air
and wearing nothing but two rings on his fingers.
Baba Ram Puri was given to his guru by his parents when he was barely one year old. At 31, he is
now a young spiritual leader himself and says Indians with disposable income want to support
traditional holy men.
"They earn a lot of money but they don't get peace, so they turn to spirituality," he said, sitting on
cushions by a smoking fire. "That's why we continue to grow in strength."
Jim Mallinson, a Sanskrit scholar and expert on sadhus, says that, while exact numbers are hard to
come by, it appears the sects are growing in strength and size, and the fair is becoming more
religious.
"I suspect it is because the emerging middle classes are more than happy to spend their surplus cash
on sustaining the sadhu tradition," he said.
Mobile phones and better roads also make the festival more accessible, while a thriving Indian
media make the festival well known all across the country. There is even a smartphone app to guide
pilgrims around the site.
"I won't become a sadhu, I want to be a cricketer," said Gaurav Vashisht, 21, a business student from
New Delhi, whose family gives money to support one of the sects. "It's very important that this
should survive, it's a great Indian tradition and has been going on for so many years."
The festival attracts global followers too, with a number of foreigners ordained in the hierarchy of
sadhus, including Baba Mangalannand, who is also a popular trance music DJ under the name Goa
Gil. He first came to the festival in 1971.
To cope with the flow of people, authorities in the state of Uttar Pradesh have installed 35,000
toilets, laid 550 km (340 miles) of water pipes and 155 km (95 miles) of temporary roads at the
riverbank site.
Mostly, though, the festival's spirit does not change. Pilgrims make their way there without
advertising, announcements or buying tickets. The sadhus show off yogic feats, catch up with old
friends and discuss scripture, just as they always have.
"The Indian people don't change their attitude to spirituality overnight, we're not like the West,"
Ram Puri said, laughing. "That's why in India the spirit is strong."
(Additional reporting by Sharat Pradhan; Editing by John Chalmers and Paul Tait)
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