Now available!

A Technical Foundation
Womens Wear Pattern Cutting
ISBN 9781849634717

Chapter

CONTENTS

Page

Information

Skirts

14

Fullness

26

Trousers

34

Bodice

52

Sleeves

66

Necklines

90

Front Openings

98

Collars

106

10

Shirt Details

124

11

Hoods

130

12

Jumpsuit

134

13

Contouring

140

14

Tailoring

150

15

Pockets

162

16

Coats

172

17

Jersey Garments

182

18

Grading

190

19

Specification Templates

196

20

Costing Garments

198

21

Fabrics

202

A bodice block is used to make all styles of woven tops and dresses. Combined with the
appropriate sleeve block for sleeved styles. The block is constructed to the hipline (HL). For long
tops and dresses square down from hipline to desired length on your plan.
Many blouses and shirts never end at the actual waistline. A common length is 14cm under the
WL. The bodice block is always adapted into designs and very rarely would it be used as it is.
Other components would be added to the block to create the design reshaping the neckline,
adding a collar, button stand (opening) etc.
The bust dart can also be moved and manipulated into different positions on the front bodice,
although the bust point is always pointing to the same position for the best fit. Darts are
necessary to create the 3D form. They can be manipulated and moved to suit the design. The
waistline darts can be moved along the waistline position as per design, but their original
placement gives a distributed reduction around the waistline, so moving is not encouraged for
the best fitting.
The blocks are body measurements with ease added for movement. They are fitted and can be
adjusted as per garment design. The ease is 4cm bust, 2cm waist and 4cm at the hipline.
Sometimes for more fitted styles less than 4cm ease can be used, but ensure the wearer can
move comfortably in the design.

Made to Measure Bodice Block

The key to made to measure is ensuring the body is measured correctly to create the block.
Many standard clothes are made to a fixed body length, when people range in height and body
lengths. This measurement is key for a perfect fit. Measured from the high point shoulder to the
centre of the waistline.
Standard clothing is made to a bust size B cup. However womens bust size can change when
their body size (waist, hip etc) does not. Buying standard size clothes a woman with a bigger
bust would have to buy a bigger size, when in fact her waist, hip, shoulder measurements are
the smaller size.
For made to measure you need to increase the front bodice at the bust line to accomodate the
larger bust size. The bust dart is also increased. This makes the front top bodice bigger than the
back bodice and allows for the bigger bust without making the rest of the body block bigger.

5. Bodices

5.BODICE BLOCK

5. Bodices

5. Bodices
Made to Measure Bodice - Step 1

Create a rectangle. Body length to hipline and total width is hip measurement plus ease of
movement.
** creating a bodice block is HALF the body, half back and half front.

5. Bodices
Made to Measure Bodice - Step 2

Draw in centre line, which is the side seam. Mid point along hipline. Square to top, shoulder line.
Mark in panel seams. Size small is 9cm. This measurement should run through the centre of your
body. Measure between bust point to ascertain this measurement. Back is the same as the front.

5. Bodices
Made to Measure Bodice - Step 3

Calculate bust and waist measurements to create side seam.

Waist darts standard are 3cm, this is good if your waist to hip ratio is 20cm or larger (meaning you
have a small waist) If your waistline difference is less than 20cm from your hipline measurement
use smaller darts. The darts do not have to be the same front and back.
If you have a rounded bottom use bigger back darts. If you have a rounded stomach use smaller
darts in the front. Dart length would not change, 14cm back and 10cm front. Calcuate 1/4 of your
waist measurement then ADD dart width to create the side seam position.

5. Bodices
Made to Measure Bodice - Step 4

Shoulder slope line depends on how rounded and low your shoulders are from your high point
neck position. 3cm is standard. If you shoulders are very dropped increase this to 4cm. If your
shoulders are very square use less - 2cm.
Neck opening depends on the size of your neck. If you have a small neck use 6cm or 6.5cm.
Larger neck needs back neck opening to be wider.

5. Bodices
Made to Measure Bodice - Step 5

Front shoulder seam is in two halves with the bust dart in the middle. Create the centre half of
the shoulder first. Adding in the dart width. 6cm is B cup, increasing 1cm per bust cup size.

5. Bodices
Made to Measure Bodice - Step 6

To finish the front body shoulder line you need to make sure the shoulder line stays straight when
the dart is sewn together. Trace around front shoulder, right side of dart and XF line. Take this
to the left side of the dart and ensure the XF and shoulder line stay straight. Shoulder is half the
measurement. Shoulder line to XF is straight, curving in base of armhole.

5. Bodices
Made to Measure Bodice - Step 7

Add noteches onto the armhole. 7cm and 8cm on the back. Measured with a tape measure on
the side for acuracy of measuring a curve. Front notch is 7cm. These notch positions are roughly
at the top of the underarm curve in the armhole.

5. Bodices
Made to Measure Bodice - Step 8

To create the sleeve you first must measure the front and back armhole of the bodice. These
measurements create the sleeve head. The sleeve head height is roughly the straight back body
armhole measurement before the under arm curve. The sleeve head is actually how rounded and
high the top of your arm is. 14cm is standard. If your sleeve head height is too long this will make
the sleeve loose at your shoulder/arm.

5. Bodices
Made to Measure Bodice - Step 9

Draw a straight line across the page, with a second line at a right angle down. Mark in the
sleeve width line, which is the sleeve head height, 14cm down. Length of the centre line is
your arm length.
Place a ruler on the shoulder point position and measure down to connect with the sleeve
width line - the back and front measurements. This creates the dotted line shown.

5. Bodices
Made to Measure Bodice - Step 10

To create the sleeve head you need to curve out and in from the dotted line. The back curve
out is larger as you move your arms forward, not back as much, hence the front curve out is
smaller than the back. These measurements for creating the sleeve head would rarely change
on body shape.

5. Bodices
Made to Measure Bodice - Step 11

Mark in arm length positions. Bicep is always 2.5cm under sleeve width line. Elbow is to the
centre point of your elbow. 3/4 sleeve would depend on arm length. Average of 45cm.
Mark in notches which correspond with bodice block positions.

5. Bodices
Made to Measure Bodice - Step 12

Completed bodice block showing panel line seams.

5. Bodices
Made to Measure Bodice - Step 12

Bodice block showing panel line seams separated. Centre back and side back, centre front and
side front. When panels are sewn together they will create the 3D body shape.

5. Bodices
Made to Measure Bodice - Step 13
Example shows how to create a larger bust.

5. Bodices
Made to Measure Bodice - Step 14

A Technical Foundation
Womens Wear
Pattern Cutting
ISBN 9781849634717

Concept to Creation
The Design Process

A Technical Foundation
Menswear Pattern Cutting

ISBN 9781849635738

Publishing October 2014